Puerto Rican cuisine in America : Nuyorican and Bodega recipes 9780762456499, 0762456493

Table of contents :
Title Page......Page 2
Copyright......Page 3
Contents......Page 4
Preface......Page 18
Native Sons and Daughters......Page 19
The Puerto Rican Kitchen......Page 31
Fritters and Appetizers......Page 34
Baclaitos Fritos......Page 38
Frituras de Yautía......Page 39
Frituras de Maíz......Page 40
Tostones......Page 41
Method I......Page 43
Method II......Page 44
Rellenos de Amarillos......Page 45
Domplines......Page 46
Alcapurrias......Page 47
Alcapurrias de Yuca......Page 49
Papas Rellenas......Page 50
Mofongo......Page 51
Guanimes......Page 52
Arepas de Maíz......Page 53
Rellenos de Harina de Maíz......Page 54
Empanadillas......Page 55
Empanadas de Yuca......Page 57
Guineitos Niños......Page 59
Pan de Ajo......Page 60
Soups......Page 61
Caldo Gallego......Page 65
Caldo de Pollo......Page 66
Sopa de Lentejas......Page 67
Sancocho......Page 69
Gazpacho......Page 71
Sopa de Pollo con Fideos......Page 72
Mondongo......Page 74
Asopao de Gandules con Arroz......Page 76
Sopa de Espinaca......Page 78
Frijoles Negros......Page 79
Sopa de Pescado......Page 81
Sopa de Los Lunes......Page 83
Salads......Page 84
Ensalada de Lechuga......Page 87
Ensalada de Espinaca y Cebolla......Page 88
Ensalada de Tomate......Page 89
Ensalda de Tomate y Cebolla......Page 90
Ensalade de Tomate y Pimiento......Page 91
Ensalada de Tomate y Chayote......Page 92
Ensalada de Tomate, Queso y Cebolla......Page 93
Ensalada de Pepinillo......Page 94
Ensalada de Cebolla......Page 95
Method 1......Page 97
Method 2......Page 98
Ensalada de Habichuelas......Page 99
Gazpacho de Aguacate......Page 100
Ensalada de Aguacate y Hongo......Page 101
Ensalada de Aguacate y Jueyes......Page 102
Ensalada de Aguacate y Brocoli......Page 104
Ensalada de Atún......Page 105
Ensalada de Hongo y Aceitunas......Page 106
Ensalada de Atún, Pimiento y Cebolla......Page 107
Ensalada de Atún y Habichuelas Blanca......Page 108
Ensalada de Macarrones y Atún......Page 109
Ensalada de Macarrones......Page 110
Ensalada de Repollo......Page 111
Ensalada de Maestro......Page 112
Ensalada de Papas......Page 114
Ensalada de Papas con Cebolla......Page 115
Ensalada de Papas al Horno......Page 116
Ensalada de Pulpo......Page 117
Ensalada de Carrucho......Page 119
Fish......Page 120
Piscado al Horno......Page 123
Pescado con Tomate y Cilantro......Page 124
Chillo en Fricasé......Page 125
Pescado con Vegetales......Page 127
1st Variation......Page 129
2nd Variation......Page 130
Pez de Espada con Salsa de Limón......Page 131
Filete de Pescado Empanado......Page 132
Pez a la Bilbaina......Page 134
Pescado Enceboyapo......Page 136
Salmón Empanado......Page 138
Pescado en Escabeche......Page 139
Pescado Frito......Page 141
Butter Sauce......Page 142
Fish......Page 143
Pescado Relleno con Hongo......Page 144
Pescado Relleno con Ostiones......Page 146
Pescado Frito con Limón......Page 148
Codfish......Page 149
Bacalao Guisado......Page 150
Bacalao con Huevos......Page 151
Bacalao con Papas en Caserola......Page 152
Bacalao y Berenjena en Caserola......Page 153
Bacalao con Pimientos......Page 154
Fettuccine con Salsa de Atún......Page 155
Shellfish......Page 156
Jueyes Herbidos......Page 159
Preparing a Crab for Serving Table......Page 161
Jueyes Criollo......Page 163
Jueyes Salmorejo......Page 164
Langosta Hervida......Page 165
Langosta al Vapor......Page 167
Langosta a la Parrilla......Page 168
Camarones Guisados......Page 169
Camarones Rellenos al Horno......Page 170
Camarones con Cebolla......Page 171
Camarones en Escabeche......Page 172
Mejillones Criollo......Page 173
Carrucho......Page 175
Squid......Page 177
Calamares Guisado......Page 178
Calamares Relleno......Page 179
Pulpo Guisado......Page 181
Poultry......Page 183
Pollo Guisapo......Page 186
1st Version......Page 188
2nd Version......Page 190
1st Version......Page 191
2nd Version......Page 192
Pollo Asado a la Parrilla......Page 193
Asopao de Pollo......Page 194
Pollo Empanao......Page 196
Pollo con Polvo de Curry......Page 197
Pollo en Fricasé......Page 199
Higado de Pollo con Vino......Page 201
Higado en Salsa......Page 202
Pollo en Capa......Page 203
Pollo al Gallego......Page 205
Guinea Guisada......Page 206
Gallina al Horno......Page 208
Pavo Relleno a la Criolla......Page 209
Relleno Para Pavo......Page 211
Pavo en Vino de Jerez......Page 212
Pato con Habichuelas Blancas......Page 213
Codorniz en Escabeche......Page 215
Beef (Plus a Couple of Rabbits)......Page 216
Picadillo......Page 219
Biftec Estofado......Page 220
Biftec al Horno......Page 221
Biftec con Garbanzos......Page 222
Piñon......Page 223
Carne Guisada......Page 225
Biftec Empanado......Page 227
Pastelón de Carne de Res......Page 228
Carne de Pote con Habichuelas Tiernas......Page 230
Mother’s......Page 231
Aunt Fanny’s......Page 233
Biftec Relleno......Page 234
Stuffing a Beefsteak......Page 236
Butifarrón......Page 237
1st Version......Page 238
2nd Version......Page 240
Biftec a la Criolla......Page 241
Biftec Flambé......Page 242
Carne con Tomate y Papas......Page 243
Hamburgesa Criollo......Page 245
Ropa Vieja......Page 246
Lengua Guisada......Page 248
Riñónes Guisados......Page 250
Arepas de Seso......Page 252
Corazones con Harina......Page 254
Conejos Frito......Page 255
Conejo en Fricasé......Page 256
Caserola de Macarrones y Carne de Res......Page 257
Veal......Page 259
Chuletas de Ternera a la Criolla......Page 262
Chuletas de Ternera a la Jardinera......Page 263
Ternera en Fricase......Page 265
Riñón de Ternera......Page 266
Ternera al Horno......Page 267
Biftec de Ternera......Page 269
Ternera con Polvo de Curry......Page 270
Doña Alma’s Muslo de Ternera......Page 271
Albóndigas de Ternera......Page 273
Sauce......Page 274
Pork......Page 275
Pernil al Horno......Page 278
Chuletas Empanadas......Page 279
Chuletas Rellenas......Page 280
Chuletas Guisadas......Page 282
Pernil con Vegetales......Page 283
Patitas de Cerdo con Garbanzos......Page 284
Junturas de Cerdo Guisadas......Page 285
Carne de Cerdo con Hongo......Page 286
Jamón al Horno......Page 287
Gandinga......Page 288
Carne de Cerdo con Papas......Page 289
Masitas de Cerdo......Page 290
Carne de Cerdo al Pinchón......Page 291
Costillas de Cerdo al Horno......Page 293
Lamb and Goat......Page 295
Chuletas de Cornero a la Parrilla......Page 298
Muslo Cornero a la Caribe......Page 299
Pata de Cornero al Horno......Page 300
Caldo de Cornero......Page 301
Cornero Relleno......Page 303
Cornero al Otro Día......Page 305
Cabro Borracho......Page 306
Fricasé Pe Cabro......Page 308
Rice......Page 310
Arroz Blanco......Page 314
Recipe I (My Mother’s Method)......Page 315
Recipe II (Aunt Fanny’s Method)......Page 316
Recipe III (Cousin Yvonne’s Method)......Page 317
Recipe IV (Oven Method)......Page 318
Arroz con Habichuelas......Page 319
Arroz Amarillo......Page 320
Arroz con Gandules......Page 322
From Salt cod to Chorizo......Page 324
Arroz con Cebolla......Page 325
Arroz con Pimiento......Page 326
Arroz con Polvo de Curry......Page 327
Arroz con Hongo......Page 328
Arroz con Chorizo......Page 329
Arroz con Bacalao......Page 330
Arroz Verde......Page 331
Arroz con Calamares......Page 332
Arroz con Jueyes......Page 334
Arroz con Pollo......Page 336
Arroz de Persa......Page 338
Arroz con Carne Molida......Page 339
Paella......Page 340
Arroz con Gandules y Carne de Cerdo......Page 343
Beans and Legumes......Page 344
Basic Bean Recipe......Page 347
A. Sofrito Method......Page 348
B. Skillet Method......Page 349
C. Oven Method......Page 350
Habichuelas Blancas con Calabaza......Page 351
Pitipuas Guisadas con Chorizo......Page 352
Lentejas Frescas con Chorizo......Page 353
Gandules Frescos Guisados......Page 354
Eggs......Page 355
Huevos Hervidos......Page 358
Huevos Revueltos......Page 359
Huevos Fritos......Page 360
Huevos Revueltos con Hongo......Page 361
Huevos Revueltos con Salmon......Page 362
Arroz con Huevos......Page 363
Huevos Revueltos con Berro......Page 364
Huevos al Horno......Page 365
Basic White Sauce......Page 366
Huevos Rellenos a la Sevilla......Page 367
Tortilla Española......Page 368
Tortilla de Espinaca......Page 369
Tortilla Pe Papas......Page 370
Tortilla de Jamón y Queso......Page 371
Uncle Phillip’s Egg Mold......Page 372
Vegetables......Page 373
Pastelles......Page 376
Bianda......Page 380
Guineos y Papas en Escabeche......Page 382
Berenjena......Page 383
Method 1......Page 384
Method 2......Page 385
Method 3......Page 386
Berenjena Rellenada......Page 387
Method 1......Page 388
Method 2......Page 389
Zanahorias Doradas......Page 390
Brocoli con Ajo......Page 391
Pimientos Rojo y Verde......Page 392
Pimientos y Hongo......Page 393
Pimientos Rellenos......Page 394
Papa al Horno......Page 395
Papas con Perejil......Page 396
Papas con Cebolla......Page 397
Papas Guisadas......Page 398
Papas y Pitipuas......Page 399
Tomates a la Parrilla......Page 400
Tomates Rellenos......Page 401
Cebollas Rellenas......Page 402
Collard Greens......Page 403
Ajo al Horno......Page 404
Desserts......Page 405
Arroz con Dulce......Page 408
Tembleque......Page 410
Budín......Page 411
El Flán de Tio Carlos......Page 412
Flán de Calabaza......Page 414
Guineos con Licor......Page 416
Dulce de Lechose......Page 417
Guineos con Crema de Coco......Page 419
Frutas con Champaña......Page 420
Quesillo......Page 421
Quesillo Blanco......Page 422
Ensalada de Fruta......Page 423
Ensalada de Fruta al Gusto......Page 424
Peras al Horno......Page 425
Salud! Rum Drinks (And a Few Without Rum)......Page 426
Bazooka......Page 430
Beachcomber......Page 431
Between the Sheets......Page 432
Black Maria (A Morning Eye Opener)......Page 433
Bolero Cocktail......Page 434
Borinquen......Page 435
Casa Blanca......Page 436
Congo......Page 437
Coquito......Page 438
Daiquiri......Page 440
Banana Daiquiri......Page 441
Frozen Daiquiri......Page 442
Peach Daiquiri......Page 443
Pineapple Daiquiri......Page 444
Strawberry Daiquiri......Page 445
Eggnog for One......Page 446
Homemade Eggnog......Page 447
Prepared Eggnog......Page 448
El Presidente......Page 449
Fireman’s Sour......Page 450
Grasshopper......Page 451
Habaneros......Page 452
Hot Buttered Rum......Page 453
Hot Toddy......Page 454
Mai-Tai......Page 455
Mariposa......Page 456
Millionaire Cocktail......Page 457
Mint Crush......Page 458
Monkey Wrench......Page 459
Morro......Page 460
National Cocktail......Page 461
Navy Grog (What Kept the British Navy Afloat Until Recent Times)......Page 462
Nuclear Blast......Page 463
Piña Colada......Page 464
Planters Punch No.1......Page 465
Planters Punch No. 2......Page 466
Rum Alexander......Page 467
Rum Buck......Page 468
Rum Bloody Mary......Page 469
Rum and Cider......Page 470
Rum Cobbler......Page 471
Rum and Cola......Page 472
Rum Collins......Page 473
Rum Cooler for One......Page 474
Rum Cooler......Page 475
Rum Daisy......Page 476
Rum Fizz......Page 477
Rum Gimlet......Page 478
Rum Highball......Page 479
Rum and Hot Chocolate......Page 480
Rum Manhattan......Page 481
Rum Margarita......Page 482
Rum Martini......Page 483
Rum Old Fashioned......Page 484
Basic Rum Punch......Page 485
Rum Punch No.2......Page 486
Rum Punch No. 3......Page 487
Champagne Rum Punch......Page 488
Christmas Rum Punch......Page 489
Fish House Rum Punch......Page 490
Rum Fruit Punch......Page 491
Holiday Rum Punch......Page 492
Party Rum Punch......Page 493
Rivera Family Party Punch......Page 494
Rum Ricky......Page 495
Rum Sangaree......Page 496
Rum Sour......Page 497
Rum Stinger......Page 498
Rum Swizzle......Page 499
Shanghai......Page 500
Singapore Sling......Page 501
Scorpion......Page 502
Tom and Jerry (Traditional Recipe)......Page 503
Tom and Jerry (Modern Approach)......Page 504
Rum and Tonic......Page 505
Torridora......Page 506
Trinidad Cocktail......Page 507
Zombie......Page 508
Caribbean Limeade......Page 509
Chocolate Egg Cream......Page 510
Grenadine Highball......Page 511
Orchata de Ajonjolí (Sesame Seed Drink)......Page 512
Orchata de Coco (Coconut Juice Drink)......Page 513
Maví......Page 514
Jugo de Guanábana (Soursop Juice)......Page 515
Refresco de Parcha (Passion Fruit Beverage)......Page 516
Refresco de Raíces (Root Bark Beverage)......Page 517
Jugo de Tamarindo......Page 518
Virgin Banana Daiquiri......Page 519
Virgin Peach Daiquiri......Page 520
Virgin Pineapple Daiquiri......Page 521
Virgin Strawberry Daiquiri......Page 522
Virgin Fizz......Page 523
Virgin Rickey......Page 524
Afterword......Page 525
Glossary......Page 527
Index......Page 529

Citation preview

© 1993, 2002, 2015 by Oswald Rivera Illustrations © Sudi McCollum (except where noted) Published by Running Press, A Member of the Perseus Books Group All rights reserved under the Pan-American and International Copyright Conventions Printed in the United States This book may not be reproduced in whole or in part, in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system now known or hereafter invented, without written permission from the publisher. Books published by Running Press are available at special discounts for bulk purchases in the United States by corporations, institutions, and other organizations. For more information, please contact the Special Markets Department at the Perseus Books Group, 2300 Chestnut Street, Suite 200, Philadelphia, PA 19103, or call (800) 810-4145, ext. 5000, or e-mail [email protected]. Library of Congress Control Number: 2014948623 E-book ISBN 978-0-7624-5649-9 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Digit on the right indicates the number of this printing Designed by Jason Kayser Edited by Zachary Leibman Typography: Chronicle, Tolyer, and Whitney Illustrations on pages 108, 161, and 262 by Jason Kayser Running Press Book Publishers 2300 Chestnut Street Philadelphia, PA 19103-4371 Visit us on the web! www.offthemenublog.com

CONTENTS Preface Native Sons and Daughters The Puerto Rican Kitchen Fritters and Appetizers Baclaitos Fritos Frituras de Yautía Frituras de Maíz Tostones Platanos Amarillos Method I Method II Rellenos de Amarillos Domplines Alcapurrias Alcapurrias de Yuca Papas Rellenas Mofongo Guanimes Arepas de Maíz Rellenos de Harina de Maíz Empanadillas Empanadas de Yuca Guineitos Niños Pan de Ajo

Soups Caldo Gallego Caldo de Pollo Sopa de Lentejas Sancocho

Gazpacho Sopa de Pollo con Fideos Mondongo Asopao de Gandules con Arroz Sopa de Espinaca Frijoles Negros Sopa de Pescado Sopa de Los Lunes

Salads Ensalada de Lechuga Ensalada de Espinaca y Cebolla Ensalada de Tomate Ensalda de Tomate y Cebolla Ensalade de Tomate y Pimiento Ensalada de Tomate y Chayote Ensalada de Tomate, Queso y Cebolla Ensalada de Pepinillo Ensalada de Cebolla Ensalada de Brocoli Method 1 Method 2 Ensalada de Habichuelas Gazpacho de Aguacate Ensalada de Aguacate y Hongo Ensalada de Aguacate y Jueyes Ensalada de Aguacate y Brocoli Ensalada de Atún Ensalada de Hongo y Aceitunas Ensalada de Atún, Pimiento y Cebolla Ensalada de Atún y Habichuelas Blanca Ensalada de Macarrones y Atún

Ensalada de Macarrones Ensalada de Repollo Ensalada de Maestro Ensalada de Papas Ensalada de Papas con Cebolla Ensalada de Papas al Horno Ensalada de Pulpo Ensalada de Carrucho

Fish Piscado al Horno Pescado con Tomate y Cilantro Chillo en Fricasé Pescado con Vegetales Filete de Pescado al Horno 1st Variation 2nd Variation Pez de Espada con Salsa de Limón Filete de Pescado Empanado Pez a la Bilbaina Pescado Enceboyapo Salmón Empanado Pescado en Escabeche Pescado Frito Pescado Herbido Butter Sauce Fish Pescado Relleno con Hongo Pescado Relleno con Ostiones Pescado Frito con Limón Codfish Bacalao Guisado

Bacalao con Huevos Bacalao con Papas en Caserola Bacalao y Berenjena en Caserola Bacalao con Pimientos Fettuccine con Salsa de Atún

Shellfish Jueyes Herbidos Preparing a Crab for Serving Table Jueyes Criollo Jueyes Salmorejo Langosta Hervida Langosta al Vapor Langosta a la Parrilla Camarones Guisados Camarones Rellenos al Horno Camarones con Cebolla Camarones en Escabeche Mejillones Criollo Carrucho Squid Calamares Guisado Calamares Relleno Pulpo Guisado

Poultry Pollo Guisapo Pollo al Horno 1st Version 2nd Version Pollo Frito 1st Version 2nd Version

Pollo Asado a la Parrilla Asopao de Pollo Pollo Empanao Pollo con Polvo de Curry Pollo en Fricasé Higado de Pollo con Vino Higado en Salsa Pollo en Capa Pollo al Gallego Guinea Guisada Gallina al Horno Pavo Relleno a la Criolla Relleno Para Pavo Pavo en Vino de Jerez Pato con Habichuelas Blancas Codorniz en Escabeche

Beef (Plus a Couple of Rabbits) Picadillo Biftec Estofado Biftec al Horno Biftec con Garbanzos Piñon Carne Guisada Biftec Empanado Pastelón de Carne de Res Carne de Pote con Habichuelas Tiernas Carne Mechada Mother’s Aunt Fanny’s Biftec Relleno Stuffing a Beefsteak

Butifarrón Albóndigas Guisadas en Salsa 1st Version 2nd Version Biftec a la Criolla Biftec Flambé Carne con Tomate y Papas Hamburgesa Criollo Ropa Vieja Lengua Guisada Riñónes Guisados Arepas de Seso Corazones con Harina Conejos Frito Conejo en Fricasé Caserola de Macarrones y Carne de Res

Veal Chuletas de Ternera a la Criolla Chuletas de Ternera a la Jardinera Ternera en Fricase Riñón de Ternera Ternera al Horno Biftec de Ternera Ternera con Polvo de Curry Doña Alma’s Muslo de Ternera Albóndigas de Ternera Sauce

Pork Pernil al Horno Chuletas Empanadas Chuletas Rellenas

Chuletas Guisadas Pernil con Vegetales Patitas de Cerdo con Garbanzos Junturas de Cerdo Guisadas Carne de Cerdo con Hongo Jamón al Horno Gandinga Carne de Cerdo con Papas Masitas de Cerdo Carne de Cerdo al Pinchón Costillas de Cerdo al Horno

Lamb and Goat Chuletas de Cornero a la Parrilla Muslo Cornero a la Caribe Pata de Cornero al Horno Caldo de Cornero Cornero Relleno Cornero al Otro Día Cabro Borracho Fricasé Pe Cabro

Rice Arroz Blanco Recipe I (My Mother’s Method) Recipe II (Aunt Fanny’s Method) Recipe III (Cousin Yvonne’s Method) Recipe IV (Oven Method) Arroz con Habichuelas Arroz Amarillo Arroz con Gandules From Salt cod to Chorizo Arroz con Cebolla

Arroz con Pimiento Arroz con Polvo de Curry Arroz con Hongo Arroz con Chorizo Arroz con Bacalao Arroz Verde Arroz con Calamares Arroz con Jueyes Arroz con Pollo Arroz de Persa Arroz con Carne Molida Paella Arroz con Gandules y Carne de Cerdo

Beans and Legumes Basic Bean Recipe A. Sofrito Method B. Skillet Method C. Oven Method Habichuelas Blancas con Calabaza Pitipuas Guisadas con Chorizo Lentejas Frescas con Chorizo Gandules Frescos Guisados

Eggs Huevos Hervidos Huevos Revueltos Huevos Fritos Huevos Revueltos con Hongo Huevos Revueltos con Salmon Arroz con Huevos Huevos Revueltos con Berro Huevos al Horno

Basic White Sauce Huevos Rellenos a la Sevilla Tortilla Española Tortilla de Espinaca Tortilla Pe Papas Tortilla de Jamón y Queso Uncle Phillip’s Egg Mold

Vegetables Pastelles Bianda Guineos y Papas en Escabeche Berenjena Berenjena Frita Method 1 Method 2 Method 3 Berenjena Rellenada Espinaca en Crema Method 1 Method 2 Zanahorias Doradas Brocoli con Ajo Pimientos Rojo y Verde Pimientos y Hongo Pimientos Rellenos Papa al Horno Papas con Perejil Papas con Cebolla Papas Guisadas Papas y Pitipuas Tomates a la Parrilla

Tomates Rellenos Cebollas Rellenas Collard Greens Ajo al Horno

Desserts Arroz con Dulce Tembleque Budín El Flán de Tio Carlos Flán de Calabaza Guineos con Licor Dulce de Lechose Guineos con Crema de Coco Frutas con Champaña Quesillo Quesillo Blanco Ensalada de Fruta Ensalada de Fruta al Gusto Peras al Horno

Salud! Rum Drinks (And a Few Without Rum) Cocktails and Party Drinks Bazooka Beachcomber Between the Sheets Black Maria (A Morning Eye Opener) Bolero Cocktail Borinquen Casa Blanca Congo Coquito Daiquiri

Banana Daiquiri Frozen Daiquiri Peach Daiquiri Pineapple Daiquiri Strawberry Daiquiri Eggnog for One Homemade Eggnog Prepared Eggnog El Presidente Fireman’s Sour Grasshopper Habaneros Hot Buttered Rum Hot Toddy Mai-Tai Mariposa Millionaire Cocktail Mint Crush Monkey Wrench Morro National Cocktail Navy Grog (What Kept the British Navy Afloat Until Recent Times) Nuclear Blast Piña Colada Planters Punch No.1 Planters Punch No. 2 Rum Alexander Rum Buck Rum Bloody Mary Rum and Cider Rum Cobbler

Rum and Cola Rum Collins Rum Cooler for One Rum Cooler Rum Daisy Rum Fizz Rum Gimlet Rum Highball Rum and Hot Chocolate Rum Manhattan Rum Margarita Rum Martini Rum Old Fashioned Basic Rum Punch Rum Punch No.2 Rum Punch No. 3 Champagne Rum Punch Christmas Rum Punch Fish House Rum Punch Rum Fruit Punch Holiday Rum Punch Party Rum Punch Rivera Family Party Punch Rum Ricky Rum Sangaree Rum Sour Rum Stinger Rum Swizzle Shanghai Singapore Sling Scorpion

Tom and Jerry (Traditional Recipe) Tom and Jerry (Modern Approach) Rum and Tonic Torridora Trinidad Cocktail Zombie Non-Alcoholic Drinks Caribbean Limeade Chocolate Egg Cream Grenadine Highball Orchata de Ajonjolí (Sesame Seed Drink) Orchata de Coco (Coconut Juice Drink) Maví Jugo de Guanábana (Soursop Juice) Refresco de Parcha (Passion Fruit Beverage) Refresco de Raíces (Root Bark Beverage) Jugo de Tamarindo Virgin Banana Daiquiri Virgin Peach Daiquiri Virgin Pineapple Daiquiri Virgin Strawberry Daiquiri Virgin Fizz Virgin Rickey

Afterword Glossary Index

“When I can’t write, I read. When I can’t read, I cook.” —M.F.K. FISHER

PREFACE Shortly before the publication of my first novel, I had a conference with my initial publisher. This was a strategy session for my next novel, as well as a chance to kick around new ideas. I had mentioned, in passing, that fine cuisine is one of my favorite pastimes, along with classical music, old movies, and the martial arts. My publisher then wondered if I would be interested in working on a cookbook. I was intrigued since not much was then known about Puerto Rican cooking, my area of expertise. However, this expertise was limited to island cooking as it relates to Puerto Ricans born and raised in New York. Someone suggested a cookbook whose main thrust would be urban. The idea seemed to strike us all in the right way. And that’s how Puerto Rican Cuisine in America: Nuyorican and Bodega Recipes was born. The recipes given in this book have been proven through countless years of trial and error. For this I have to thank my immediate family, especially my beloved mother, of late memory, whose cooking was phenomenal. And it helped to have an extended clan that included plenty of family members back on the island, as well as relatives scattered throughout the New York City boroughs and points south along the eastern seaboard. The Riveras, as all Boricuas, share a joy of good food and good eating. I have tried to simplify and economize the recipes as much as possible, both in terms of time and ingredients, without sacrificing quality. The recipes themselves run the gamut, from dishes that can be prepared in minutes to more involved entrees that may take several hours’ preparation. Nuyorican cooking is simple and hardy, despite what some may consider its unusual side. It’s not meat and potatoes, but it’s distinctive and delicious. It’s our classical cooking tradition, on par with its European and Asian counterparts. For those unfamiliar with Latino cuisine, it will open whole new vistas. Oswald Rivera New York City, August 2014

NATIVE SONS AND DAUGHTERS

I

n the last generation or so a new Latino has risen, mainly along the cities of the Eastern Seaboard of the United States. These are people of Hispanic descent who, like other immigrants before them, have sought that bright future that always comes at a cost.

When we speak of “Latino” or “Hispanic” we are referring to a vast culture that includes people of diverse racial, social and economic backgrounds. The terms can refer to a Mexican-American in the Southwest, a Cuban living in Miami, a Dominican in Chicago, or someone whose family comes from any of the Central or Latin American nations. Within this Hispanic fold are the Puerto Ricans. And within the Puerto Ricans there is that segment known, sometimes affectionately and sometimes derisively, as the Nuyoricans. Nuyorican is synonymous with New York Puerto Rican. It defines Latino men and women who were either raised or born in the city of New York. Their counterparts on the island of Puerto Rico were reared under a differing set of circumstances. A Nuyorican most likely attends a public school or parochial school (if the family can afford it), plays stickball in school yards throughout the city, listens to salsa music at home or in social clubs located anywhere from the Upper West Side to Brooklyn, enjoys baseball, probably speaks English first, Spanish second, and the Spanish he or she does know is usually an amalgam of Americanisms combined with the traditional Spanish verbs, the “Spanglish” of East Harlem. He or she partakes of a culture and enjoys a cuisine that combines elements of traditional Puerto Rican cooking with infusions of new ideas and new ways of doing things inspired by the new urban environment of New York. In the island proper, an islander looks on a Nuyorican in the same way as, say, a native Japanese would consider a Nisei, or American citizen of Japanese ancestry. There’s a lovehate relationship there. Indeed, Nuyorican, like “Neo-Rican,” was first used as a pejorative term. In the old days, prior to the 1960s, there was resentment by those native Puerto Ricans who remained behind, either by choice or out of economic necessity, and did not follow their brethren during the great migration to the mainland in the early and mid ‘50s. The newcomers would return for brief spells to the island, and they would bring with them a new perspective. Later on, when the prosperity on the mainland, mainly in the inner cities, began to falter, and there was a reverse migration back to the island, the Nuyoricans were accused of importing all the unsavory influences of a shattering urban lifestyle. Thus the old prejudices remain. Yet despite them, for most older Nuyoricans, the goal is to become economically secure enough to one day return to the island for good. No different from the first-generation Italians, Irish, Greeks and countless other ethnics who harbored the same dream, only to remain longer than they had envisioned, long enough to see their sons and daughters adopt a totally different outlook. So, those of us Nuyoricans who, for whatever reasons, have chosen to remain on the

mainland, have been buffeted by countless cross-currents, all of which are expressed in our style of cooking. What is Nuyorican cooking? For that matter, what is Puerto Rican cooking? There’s no definitive answer. Our cuisine is a potpourri of various elements. It draws heavily on Spanish, native Caribbean and African influences. It’s heavy on spices, though Nuyorican cuisine has gotten somewhat milder in the last few years. The cooking has two tendencies. It is healthier than most in that it emphasizes all manner of fresh vegetables and seafood, yet it still features pork and beef predominantly in the diet. The basic dish is rice; and we mean rice in all its variations, from yellow rice, to plain white rice, to rice cooked with squid. Beans provide the main accompaniment. But, as with rice, the beans come in every conceivable manner from black bean soup to garbanzo salad. It is cooking that features warmth, sensuality; and it is infinitely adaptable as countless Puerto Rican families have discovered over the years while living in northern climes. Naturally, like all migrants to these shores, we’ve been influenced by what we call “Anglo culture.” In my parents’ home in the scenic town of Ponce, 80 miles southwest of San Juan, every Wednesday was spaghetti day. My mother served it differently from Italian-Americans; her spaghetti was served in combination with stewed chicken; but it was still spaghetti day. Also, on the island of Puerto Rico, fast food emporiums are rapidly replacing the old time cafetines, where a working man could once have an empanada and a beer. Today it’s most likely a hamburger and a soft drink, or a pizza. Nevertheless, criollo cooking flourishes in homes on the mainland as well as in the Caribbean. But is there such a thing as traditional Puerto Rican cuisine? Yes and no. From the Spaniards we acquired such things as arroz con pollo (rice and chicken) and escabeche, a fragrant fish dish. From Africa we get such savories as mofongo, a plantain dish. From the Caribbean come dishes made from all manner of tubers and root plants and every type of seafood imaginable, as well as native pork and meat dishes. The first thing in Puerto Rican and, therefore, Nuyorican cooking, is the seasoning. Long before the stew is simmered, the fish is baked or the meat is broiled, the senses are enveloped by an aroma of spices and condiments. Therein lies the heart of the cuisine. But the spices must mingle delicately. Like a good blend in a wine, no one herb must predominate except subtly, with a fine touch. The use of seasonings in Nuyorican cooking is not that complex, nor are the ingredients that hard to obtain. On the Eastern Seaboard there are a variety of Spanish and ethnic markets where the right condiments can be found. Any bodega will stock the items. If not, then any local Asian or Indian grocer should carry the goods. Of course, it is recommended that, in season, fresh herbs be used whenever possible, dried substitutes are available, summer or winter. The one prerequisite to remember is color. Simple rule of thumb: the brighter the color, the fresher the herb or spice, and this goes for freeze-dried products too. The essential spices are listed below, in order from the most utilized to the least

needed. Ground black pepper (or peppercorns) Garlic cloves Oregano (dried) Cilantro (culantro) Ají Dulce (sweet chili pepper) Recao (small leafy plant used to impart a tangy flavor) Achiote (Annatto seeds) Bay leaves Thyme leaves (or dried) Paprika Onion powder Rosemary Curry (powdered) Sage Mustard Ginger (whole) Marjoram Parsley Hot chili pepper Allspice Cumin (ground) Cinnamon (ground and/or stick form) Anise seeds Vanilla extract White pepper (ground) Tarragon Basil (dried) Also important are such non-spices as: Olive oil (full flavored or extra, not the light version) Vinegar (regular, and red wine)

Cornstarch (or arrowroot) Bijol (a prepackaged substitute for sofrito and achiote) Worcestershire sauce Substitutions are encouraged if one can’t find the genuine article. Parsley can be substituted for culantro, small Italian peppers for ají dulce, etc. In Puerto Rican cooking, nothing is set in stone. The main difference between our cuisine and that of our North American counterparts lies in those three magic words: sofrito, abodo, and achiote. Sofrito is a flavoring, adobo is a seasoning and achiote is for coloring. All three can be prepared beforehand and stored for future use. Sofrito is an aromatic mix of herbs and spices that is a base for cooking countless dishes. This concept can be found in other cultures as well. One example is the Indian mix called garam masala which is also used as a base flavoring. Sofrito can be whipped up in a few moments’ time in a blender or food processor. As with adobo and achiote, the effort is minimal. The word sofrito is a generic term that has no correct English translation. “Frito” in Spanish means fried. Sofrito could be taken to mean stirfried, although this would not be entirely accurate. Sofrito can be stored in a closed, tight jar or container in the refrigerator for three to four days or in the freezer compartment indefinitely. Like achiote and adobo, it’s the kind of product where the basic recipe can be doubled or tripled, depending on how much one may want to use.

Sofrito Here’s a quick recipe for sofrito: 8 leafy stems of cilantro, chopped (I recommend the flat leaf-type Italian cilantro available in most markets). 1 medium green bell pepper, chopped (green bell peppers are also called pimentos or pimientos, depending on what part of the globe one hails from). 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 medium onion, coarsely chopped ¼ pound ají dulce (small, sweet chili peppers found in most bodegas, Asian stores, and specialty markets and sold loose by the handful or in packets of ½ or ¼ pound. A ¼ pound packet contains about 28 peppers). They should be sliced in half with inner seeds removed. 6 whole leaves recao, chopped (recao is a small, green stemmed herb also found in bodegas and Asian markets). This is optional in most cases. My Uncle Carlos prefers to use regular parsley rather than this herb. My mother prefers to use the recao. In the Cuban version of sofrito they disregard recao altogether. Let your tastebuds be the judge. Combine all ingredients in a blender and puree until it has a smooth, sauce-like consistency, adding one tablespoon of vegetable oil while pureeing. This will yield about

1⅓ cups of sofrito. Olive oil can be used in place of vegetable oil. The only difficulty I have with olive oil is that it congeals in the refrigerator, although this will not affect the overall flavor in the cooking. My mother, in her sofrito recipe, adds a pound of chopped tomatoes to the mix (about 2 large tomatoes). From my experience, most people prefer to leave out the tomatoes or any other acidic ingredients until the actual cooking of the sofrito. My Aunt Fanny always stores quite a bit in the fridge, and her recipe measurements are: 1 to 2 pounds of onions (chopped), 2 heads of garlic cloves (crushed), 3 green and 3 red pimentos (or you can use all green pimentos), 1 cup of chopped cilantro, ½ cup chopped recao, and ½ pound of ají dulce. Aunt Fanny prefers to add 2 tablespoons of water, rather than oil, while the condiments are being pureed. This recipe yields about 4 cups. Okay, you’ve made a batch of sofrito. How do you use it? Simple. You sauté, in a pan or skillet, one or two tablespoons of sofrito, in a tablespoon of olive oil or corn oil. The sofrito is cooked for a minute or so, ensuring the blending of its diverse flavors. Add a tablespoon of tomato paste and cook a minute or two longer. This is your sofrito base for whatever dish you may be making, be it simple or complex. Some folks prefer using tomato sauce instead of tomato paste. They claim it gives better flavor. Some friends of mine came upon a very useful idea for storing sofrito so that it’s ready to use at all times. They freeze it in ice trays. A regular size ice cube is equal to approximately two tablespoons of sofrito. You simply plop a cube of sofrito into the skillet or stew pot. A novel idea and worth a try. To some, it’s much easier than scooping out two or three tablespoons of the stuff from a can in the freezer compartment.

Adobo Our next indispensable item is adobo, which is simply a mix of black peppercorns, oregano and garlic. In the old days these ingredients were crushed in a mortar and the mix was rubbed thoroughly into meat, fish and poultry. That’s still the way it’s done by purists. Most people just sprinkle the meat with ground pepper, garlic powder, dried oregano and, sometimes, onion powder, then marinate it in olive oil and vinegar. Others prefer fresh lime juice to the vinegar. In my family we all do it by eye measurement. If you adhere to strict standards then a basic adobo mix would be: ½ teaspoon ground pepper or 4 whole peppercorns (crushed), ½ teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon garlic powder or one garlic clove (crushed) and ¼ teaspoon onion powder (optional).

Achiote Achiote is annatto seeds cooked in vegetable oil or olive oil. On the island they would cook the seeds in lard. Annatto is the pulp of the tropical tree Bixa orellana. Annato dye is used in coloring some cheeses and in textiles and varnishes. Caribbean and South American Indians use it for body paint. Typical recipe for achiote: 1. In small skillet, preferably cast-iron, heat ½ cup olive oil or vegetable oil. When the

oil is very hot, add 1 tablespoon annatto seeds. They can be obtained at most supermarkets in 8-ounce jars. Turn heat to low and cook the seeds, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes. If the flame is kept on high, the seeds may crack and splatter. During cooking, the oil will turn a bright orange-red color. The longer the seeds steep in oil, the deeper the hue. 2. Remove from heat and let cool. Using a small strainer, pour into a glass jar or container. Cover and refrigerate. My relatives use a lot of achiote. Some of their recipes call for a whole bottle of vegetable oil (32 ounces) and one jar (8 ounces) of annatto seeds. In the last few years substitutes for sofrito, adobo and achiote have appeared on the market. These substitutes strive for the same effect as one would get with the real item. The most common is a product called sazón or sazón accént. It comes in a small packet as a red powder that’s supposed to emulate the flavor of sofrito and the coloring of achiote. Years before package sazón came on the scene, there was, and still can be found, a similar powdered product called bijol. This comes in a small can and is also touted as a condiment that gives zest to a meal. Sofrito can even be found these days in processed form in a jar. Same for adobo. While these condiments are good in a pinch, none, to my mind, attain the real gusto of the homemade variety. Besides, the natural product is so easy to prepare, why bother with the synthetic stuff? Puerto Rican food has that most valued of attributes: it’s great for leftovers. Especially the strong flavored meat and vegetable dishes. They are more delicious after a day or two in the refrigerator. However, I would caution against freezing. Strong stews and broth become waterlogged after defrosting and the flavor of spices in any dish tends to diminish. The punch is no longer there. In my mother’s kitchen there was never any fancy equipment used for cooking other than your usual gas range, blender, mortar and pestle for crushing things, and an oldfashioned grater. Of course, we’re talking of the late ‘50s and early ‘60s. Today, most cooks would not do without a food processor and microwave oven. The food processor is invaluable. Puerto Rican cooking involves a lot of chopping, grating, slicing, and the like. Microwave cooking is another matter. For reheating, preparing easily baked and broiled dishes, the microwave has its uses. For more involved traditional fare, it is not recommended. After years of trying I still cannot prepare a simple rice dish to my liking in a microwave. But, for the quick stuff, it’s not bad, and convenient. Traditionally, criollo foods have been served either with beer, the best thirst quencher around, or rum with cola or fruit juice. My family has discovered that most hearty Puerto Rican dishes go well with robust red wines. A good Cabernet, full-bodied Rioja, fruity Zinfandel or an intense Chianti all marry well with the fuller flavored entrees. Likewise do the light- to medium bodied whites of every persuasion. A Soave with swordfish, Graves with shellfish, Gewürztraminer with a spicy seafood medley. One is only limited by palate and imagination. I have discovered that, overall, I prefer the red wines. And this goes for whatever the dish. A light red such as Gamay or Bardolino, to my way of thinking, complements

seafood better than the traditional whites. Each to his own taste. I do not believe in any rigid rules where vino is concerned. One of my aunts prefers to drink Lambrusco with her meal. Lambrusco is a wine I detest but, hey, it’s her taste buds. During my younger days I knew a young lady who preferred Manischewitz Cream White Concord as a dinner wine. Who is to say who’s right or who’s wrong? I will suggest wines that I think will enhance the recipes in the book. You can try out these wines and, hopefully, they will be to your liking. Or you can tell me where to go and drink with your meal whatever your heart desires. Thus far, we’ve talked about the properties that constitute Puerto Rican and Nuyorican cooking; but I wouldn’t know how to separate the food from the rest of our history. Since widespread Puerto Rican migration is a relatively new phenomenon to these shores, that will be our vantage point and I shall use my own family background as an example. First, some prehistory. Puerto Rico is one of a chain of islands in the West Indies known as the Greater Antilles. The others in the chain are Cuba, Jamaica, and Hispaniola (Haiti/Dominican Republic). Puerto Rico is the easternmost and smallest island in the chain. It lies 1,050 miles from the tip of Florida and 1,600 miles from New York. To the north of the island is the Atlantic Ocean, to the south lies the Caribbean Sea. The island is somewhat larger than Delaware, but smaller than Connecticut. It is approximately 95 miles long and 35 miles wide, and encompasses 3,435 square miles altogether. Two rugged mountain chains crisscross the island from east to west and make it a jumbled terrain of steep valleys, jagged peaks and uneven plains. The temperature is fairly stable year round, averaging about 75° Fahrenheit in winter and 80° in summer— unless, like my parents, who lived in Ponce where it’s hot all the time. Still, even in Ponce, fresh breezes sweep down from the mountains to make it pleasantly cool at nighttime. One of Puerto Rico’s claims to fame is that it averages 65 inches of rainfall a year, more than in any part of the continental U.S. This may be due, in part, to the fact that the island lies directly in the “hurricane belt” of the Caribbean. Situated to the north is San Juan, the largest city on the island and the capital. It has a population of over 395,000. Bayamen, a municipality on the Northern coast, is the second largest city with a population of 205,693. Ponce, where Riveras are from, has approximately 194,000 residents. In between these centers is a host of smaller cities, towns and villages dotting the mountains of the interior. Puerto Rico has come a long way since Columbus set foot on the island on November 3, 1493. He did not christen it Puerto Rico, by the way. He named it San Juan Bautista, in honor of the then heir to the throne of Spain. At the time of Columbus’ arrival, Puerto Rico was inhabited by a group of Caribbean Indians known as the Taínos. They called the island Borinquen. Following colonial policy, it wasn’t long before most of the Taínos were enslaved or killed off by the Spaniards and diseases they carried with them. With a dwindling Indian population, the Spaniards imported African slaves in 1509 to replace the

Indians as slave labor. A year before, in 1508, Ponce De León, before he went batty in a quest for the mythical fountain of youth, was granted permission by the Spanish Crown to colonize the island. During his exploration along the coast, he found a port within a bay in the northern part that so impressed him with its beauty that he called it Puerto Rico, or “Rich Port” in English. In 1521, the port city of Puerto Rico joined with the island of San Juan Bautista so that the island became known as Puerto Rico and the city became known as San Juan. Puerto Rico continued to be a part of Spain’s colonial domain until 1898 when it was acquired as a possession by the United States following the U.S. victory during the Spanish-American War. In 1917, in a law called the Jones Act, American citizenship was granted to all island residents. The next momentous development in the history of the island was on July 25, 1952, when the people of Puerto Rico voted to approve the creation of the Free Associated State, or the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico. All this means is that Puerto Rico still remains a possession of the U.S. but with its own constitution and legislative government. Even the most die-hard Puerto Rican nationalist would agree that the American occupation has been benign and profitable to the island, compared with Spain’s tenure. Since the 1940s the island has made much economic progress, mainly due to the fact that manufacturing has surpassed agriculture as the leading source of income, larger even than the huge tourist industry. But even with its stainless steel and glass towers in San Juan and networks of modern highways, there are still pockets of poverty. This was even more true during the early 1950s, when the first great migration of Puerto Ricans flowed to the mainland. The causes of the migration were twofold. First, there was an increase in the availability of manufacturing jobs in factories and garment plants in New York City. The other factor was the emergence of a cheap mode of transportation from the island and back; inexpensive plane fares from San Juan to New York. Previously, the only way of crossing the Caribbean had been via seagoing passenger vessels. Not many could afford that. The other route was via plane flight to Miami and then a long train trip from Miami to New York. This is the route that my Uncle Carlos took. But with the easy availability of the plane flights, all stops were pulled. A propeller driven DC-6 Constellation took about six to seven hours from San Juan to Idlewild Airport. When passenger jets became operational, the time was cut to approximately three and one-half hours. Like many before them, the newcomers settled in their own separate enclaves in the city. Just as at the turn of the century, the Jews had clustered in the Lower East Side, the Irish on the West Side, and the Chinese in lower Manhattan, the Puerto Ricans settled mainly on the Upper East Side in the area that came to be known as Spanish Harlem (or the Barrio, as we call it), and in the south and east Bronx. Eventually they migrated toward northern Queens and the Borough Park section of Brooklyn. These areas became inner city ghettos that exist to this day. Naturally, certain aspects of the island life were transplanted to these environs, such as the local social clubs and the cafetines, or small take-out stands that specialize in the selling of savory pork products called frituras.

Spanish Harlem gave rise to La Marqueta, a huge outdoor market that, until recently, was the heart of the Barrio. When I was a child, I would accompany my mother on her excursions to the Marqueta, where everything necessary to the Puerto Rican diet could be found. The freshest catch of the sea this side of Fulton Street can still be found there. Alas, the huge, sprawling market of my youth is no more. Economic dislocations have reduced it to blocks of closed stalls and desolate hulks, where once every type of foodstuff and mercantile goods could be purchased. What my parents missed most about the Marqueta, when they returned to Puerto Rico, was the haggling, the trading of prices back and forth between grocer and customer. It was a market place, but more, an open air bazaar on a par with the Kasbah, or the local county fairs of the Midwest. People came to the Marqueta not only to buy those items that could not be found in North American supermarkets but to indulge in a form of exchange that they or their forebears had known back on the island. One was assaulted by the pungent, exotic fragrances and earthy smells of fruit and other produce. A cacophony of noise and images. After obtaining the groceries needed, we would tread back to the apartment in the projects on East 98th Street, and my mother would go about sorting out all the goodies from her shopping bag. In those days people brought their own shopping bag to the Marqueta, usually of a type made of vinyl. This was before the proliferation of today’s disposable cellophane bags with the supermarket logo. Out of my mother’s shopping bag would appear every type of green—parsley, cilantro, cabbage, snap peas, string beans, and all variations of root plants to go with the large heads of chicory, romaine and escarole lettuce; there would be chunks of scrod, red snapper and swordfish; fresh octopus redolent with the tang of the sea; hard cheese, guava paste, buttery raisin bread, papaya slices leaking syrup out of that bag; and small, succulent frying chickens, not those oversized monstrosities that one finds today; pork butts and pork shoulders to make delectable pernil would tumble out; russet potatoes, yams, avocados, pods of tamarind to make juice; and thin sheets of tripe; thick steaks; ground beef chuck; long, stemmed eggplant; perfectly bell shaped red and green pimentos; jars of Spanish capers and big, black Greek olives; mammoth mangoes whose sweetness made the effort of eating them worthwhile; tender breadfruit; pomegranates with seeds inside as large as eyes; big, triangular-shaped pumpkin slices; plantains as long as my forearm; hard, nougat candy from Sevilla; small bottles of Malta India; large, round tins of Sultana crackers; links of those spicy Spanish sausages called chorizo; a grand Smithfield ham; delicate veal shanks; pink, juicy lamb chops; long, slim tubes of pepperoni; cans of Klim malted milk powder; slices of ripe watermelon; dry coconuts to make tembleque; husks of corn; tart, pink grapefruit; navel oranges round as baseballs; bags of dried peas, red beans and garbanzos; sun dried raisins; juicy, red grapes; old hens, plucked and skinned, to make my father’s favorite soup; salted codfish; fresh calamares; gleaming, firm blue fish, carp and mackerel; chunks of conch meat; ham hocks; dark, roasted coffee; jars of annatto; chili peppers pickled in brine; prawns the size of lightbulbs, and small candles in a jar to light on All Saint’s Day. The shopping day was always Saturday. Although the Marqueta was open every day except Sunday, on a weekday it didn’t have the same spirit as on the weekend. The hustle and bustle and the bargaining, the merchants trying to entice the clientele with their wares,

the constant jostling of matrons with their string bags, old men gossiping beside the stalls and playing the numbers, children darting between their parents and the stands, men and boys running errands for the local numbers banker, trying to deliver their lists before the winning number was announced on the street, while everyone else would try to guess the winning combination by deciphering the number formed by the shape of Ching Chow’s ear in the Daily News. It was not all foodstuffs. In the Marqueta you could find cut-rate clothing, everything from ladies’ dresses and undergarments to men’s suits. During my childhood, whenever I needed sneakers, my parents and I would hike to the Marqueta and peruse prices at the various indoor stalls beneath the elevated on 114th Street. Traditionally, my father would buy those lace-up, black high tops with the white oval on the side. Usually, U.S. Keds, what, in some circles, were called wrestling shoes. Though, to us kids that didn’t matter. They were comfortable and long lasting. They became old friends after a year of wear and tear. The going rate was about seven bucks a pair. This was long before so-called “athletic shoes” appeared on the scene; you know the type, those fashion designer kicks for which one has to negotiate a second mortgage just to buy a pair. The decline of the Marqueta was caused by a combination of factors: a depressed job market, competition from the area supermarkets, the dwindling of the older generation that was the consumer base, younger families moving to the outlying boroughs, retail mismanagement, you name it. The city fathers have instituted a program for reviving the old Marqueta. It calls for a renovation of the site from 110th to 116th Streets on Park Avenue (or Pork Avenue, as my father called it.) Whether it will work, that’s another story. Given the track record of the learned public servants at City Hall, no one is taking any bets. Today, only the fishery remains at the cavernous enclosure under the Metro North/Harlem River Line at 116th Street. There are a few stalls on the next enclosure (building number 4), but it’s nothing compared to the Marqueta in its heyday. Regretable. The Marqueta was one of the sights that made the city worthwhile. The closest one can come to anything resembling what the Marqueta used to offer is in Chinatown, or the Indian market along Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn. On the other hand, due to the cultural mix that is our city’s greatest asset, it’s not unusual to find plantains or papaya in your local supermarket. Large scale migration of islanders to the mainland, which began in the 1950s, continued unabated until the mid-60s or so. The reverse migration back to the island occurred in the early ‘70s, a casualty of the inexorable shift of urban economies in the U.S. from manufacturing to services. Whereas in the ‘50s it was relatively easy for an unskilled worker to get a job in a factory in Queens, this was no longer the case in the ‘70s. Yet a lot of islanders who returned home, eventually came back to the mainland. Conditions weren’t so great on the island either. What makes the Puerto Rican migration unique is that it was an exodus of American citizens coming to the American mainland. Because of their close proximity, Puerto Ricans were spared the trying overseas voyages of earlier European immigrants in the

19th and early 20th centuries. There was no loading of masses of humanity in steerage until landing on Ellis Island. The closest to that scenario that Puerto Ricans got was in the ‘20s and ‘30s, before established commercial air travel, when those who had the money sailed aboard Caribbean registered transport steamers. The trip aboard those vessels took four to five days. The most popular of these steamers was the Marine Tiger. This ship has become legend in Puerto Rican folklore. To the islanders of that era, those who sailed on the fabled vessel were called “marintahyers,” a corruption of the ship’s name. For a time, los marintahyers was a deprecatory label attributed to those people who ventured to the mainland. Apart from easy and convenient air travel, it helped that both island residents and mainlanders share the same currency, and there are no restrictions for the newcomers in terms of residency requirements, passports, internment visas or other bureaucratic obstacles of that kind. The first member of my family to come over was my mother’s brother, the black sheep in the family, wonderfully crazy, wise Uncle Phillip. He stowed away aboard a merchant vessel in 1938 that took him to a port city in Texas rather than the East Coast. From Texas he made his way east. In New York he eventually became a merchant seaman and, in time, embarked on the first of his many marriages. This was no exaggeration. Uncle Phillip has married so many times that we, in the family, have lost count. The next one over was my father’s brother, Uncle Carlos. He arrived in 1944. But he too took the long way around. Due to the wartime activity of U-boats in and around the Caribbean, most passenger shipping lanes were closed and the only mode of travel to the mainland was by direct flight from New York to Miami. From Miami one took a long train ride to New York. That’s how Uncle Carlos made it to the Bronx. My parents did not get here until 1952, when regular airline flights to the city had been established. In time the rest of the clan, consisting of all the brothers, sisters, aunts, uncles, nephews, and nieces, arrived. My parents returned to the island in 1967 and most of their generation has retired or passed on. Following the normal pattern, the second generation has established firm roots on the mainland. When we go back to the island, it’s mainly on vacation to visit relatives who have returned or who never came over in the first place. We normally travel during the Christmas holiday season (when airlines make a killing hiking their fares by fifty percent or more). Uncle Carlos always took the midnight flight to San Juan. The midnight flight is still the most popular one on almost any airline flying to the island. I think this has to do with the fact that, in the old days before airline deregulation, the midnight jaunt to San Juan was the cheapest. In 1965 the 12 a.m. flight to San Juan cost as little as $49. This is no longer the case. The economic benefits on a night flight are now minimal, but the idea of that midnight trip is engraved in our psyche. I suppose it’s what one could term the midnight train to Georgia syndrome. It’s a credit to our tenacity that in the dietary sphere we have, for the most part, remained constant. Nuyoricans and islanders share the same palate when it comes to food and cooking. When the New York Puerto Rican travels to the island, he or she will find many of the same dishes as at home. The contrasts are in the environmental influences.

For example, a Nuyorican may have a bagel and cream cheese for breakfast while the island counterpart may go for home grown pan de agua with butter. Nuyorican youngsters may munch on knishes on the boardwalk at Coney Island or canolis in Little Italy, but it’ll be came mechada and asopao at home. That is not to say that our cooking has not been influenced by mainland elements as well. Far from it. My Uncle Phillip probably made the best Waldorf salad this side of Park Avenue; and my mother’s version of meat loaf is still the best that I and my father ever tasted. It’s not unusual to visit a relative’s home whether here or on the island and be served a mouth-watering lasagna. My cousin, Yvonne, prepares a couscous platter that would garner raves in Morocco. If anything, our cuisine, as with every other ethnic entity, has made accommodations while remaining faithful to the basic concepts that make our traditional cooking style great. Probably the best example of this is that special day when the entire tribe got together for the annual Thanksgiving Day dinner. Now and then, there was always the turkey and the required cranberry sauce, mushroom gravy and pumpkin pie, but the requisite Nuyorican accompaniment to the bird is yellow rice with pigeon peas. Added to that, we have a tradition of serving pasteles, meat pies filled with pork or beef and wrapped in banana leaves. Dessert may be guava jelly with queso blanco (our version of farmer’s white cheese). After the dessert comes strong, black Spanish coffee with, for those who want it, a shot of anis gorilla thrown in (this is an anisette liqueur made in Spain). All of it interspersed with remembrances, quarrels, recitation of poetry—as was my father’s case. He was known to recite old ballads and poems from Spain’s golden age once the mood, or the rum, struck him. Uncle Phillip would give renditions of old Latino songs about unrequited love and lost youth, while the younger ones would sit digesting their meal in front of the TV, watching football or music videos. It was a time for unabashed sentimentality, camaraderie, arguments and laughter. Not all dinners are Thanksgiving, but the dining ritual is special to us, as it is to most people with any appreciation of life, or any sense.

THE PUERTO RICAN KITCHEN ll good cookbooks normally include a preface about kitchen equipment and its usage. You know the type—what kind of pot to use with a certain entree, etc. Mercifully, we shall be brief. Our cooking may seem exotic and even arcane to some. It’s neither. We have combined the best our forebears had to offer and come up with something that has stood the test of time. We have acquired elements not only of Caribbean Indian and Spanish cuisine but from African, English, French and Dutch as well. Fortunately for us Nuyoricans the equipment necessary for this cooking style has always been at hand. About the only utensil that might be considered out of the ordinary would be a mortar and pestle, which is used extensively in Europe, Asia and Africa. In our family we do a lot of crushing and pounding in a mortar in addition to using a food processor. There’s something about the fresh aroma of crushed garlic and peppercorns that can’t be matched, not to mention the difference in taste. A mortar and pestle can be found anywhere: Spanish bodegas, supermarkets, ethnic stores, sidewalk vendors. The one I’ve had for years is made of cast-aluminum, but they also come in treated wood. My Aunt Fanny favors the wooden ones. She claims they hold a better “fragrance.” You can even find them in cut marble just like the ones used by pharmacists.

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In my parents’ day the other often-used utensil was a caldera, or heavy pot, made either from cast-iron or cast-aluminum. In most Puerto Rican households this is the one item that has remained constant. The caldera is used mainly for cooking rice and asopaos (stews). My mother used the same one for years. These things become keepsakes after a while. I guess it would be akin to a prime wok in a Chinese family. Today, a special caldera is really not necessary. If you’re only going to make rice it can be accomplished in a rice-maker, saucepan or non-stick skillet. For hearty soups, stews and seafood dishes a heavy kettle, Dutch oven or casserole is just as good. My Uncle Phillip was fond of saying that, while he was a merchant seaman, he did a stint traveling around Africa and that he survived on that continent with nothing more than a cast-iron skillet and a machete. Could be. The point to all this is that nothing really special is needed to insure good Puerto Rican cooking. About the only indispensable tool is a good, sharp kitchen knife. Everything else can he found in the local department store or what was known in the old days as the five and dime. A word on menu planning. When Puerto Ricans dine at home, whether here or on the island, there are normally no separate courses. Everything is served together, just as in Chinese or Arabic cuisine. Our dinners mainly include salad and an entree. The soup course is something else. Our soups are usually delectable stews that are meals in themselves. A chicken stew or fish soup is served accompanied only by bread or plantains (tostones). Think of a cassoulet or bouillabaisse and you get the idea. The only exception to this is when a caldo gallego, a type of broth, is served beforehand, something you’ll find in the fancy and not so fancy establishments in San Juan. When I entertain at home, I serve meals in the continental mode, first the soup, then

the salad, entree, etc. To their dying day, my parents served with everything on the table at one time, except for dessert. I guess it’s a generational thing.

A WORD ON SALT We stopped using salt in our family about twenty years ago. It all began with Uncle Carlos (on my father’s side of the clan) who, on the advice of his doctor, cut down his salt intake. Eventually he quit using salt altogether. Then my father stopped wielding the salt shaker for much the same reasons. Next came my Uncle Phillip (on my mother’s side) who, after major surgery, also nixed the sodium. This was a process affecting almost all the menfolk of the older generation. Their wives, sisters and girlfriends, who tackled the day to day drudgery of cooking the family meal, had to adjust to this new reality. (In my family, the men of the older generation were not only good trenchermen; most could be very creative in the kitchen. Yet this is a sometime thing reserved only for special occasions when their cooking prowess was on display to commemorate some festivity.) We are a people who love spices. We like our dishes full-flavored. And salt had been the seasoning of choice. When health considerations precluded our use of salt as extensively as before, we were forced to seek alternatives. This wasn’t easy. For a while we tried those imitation salt products that are now standard fare. They were terrible. There followed a period of experimentation with possible options: vinegar, celery seed, crushed green chili, and whatever else we could think of. Lucky for us we’re an industrious crew and we’ve learned to compensate for our former dependence. We found that lemon juice is a good substitute when salt is called for. For instance, if a recipe requires one tablespoon of salt, we suggest half a teaspoon of lemon juice instead. If it calls for one teaspoon salt, then ¼ teaspoon of lemon juice should do. Another suggestion is to enhance the spices already prevalent in the dish. A pinch or two of pickling may help. Dill and tarragon are two other enhancers in lieu of salt. I’ve discovered that compiling an ethnic cookbook and omitting salt entirely is like a Western movie without horses. It can’t be done. We may have reservations on salt but a lot of our readers do not. So we’ve included salt as an ingredient in recipes where it’s needed.

You can elect to leave it in or take it out. Our bodies need salt. It’s a prime ingredient in our makeup. But in our daily environment the amount of salt naturally found in most foods is enough for our needs. Most of us have been weaned on salt dependency since infancy. In some cases this dependency can be detrimental—just like the empty calories in sugar can be detrimental. Mind you, we are not advocating a salt-free diet for everyone. That’s an individual choice. We are just cautioning you to follow your common sense, take account of dietary preferences, and proceed accordingly.

FRITTERS AND APPETIZERS

First, there’s the matter of the correct oil. By that we mean a vegetable oil. ost of the appetizers, snacks and side dishes in this section are deep fried. They all come under the heading of frituras or fritters. These are fried vegetables, some with meat stuffing, which are mainly for noshing between meals. In Spanish Harlem, as in every small town in Puerto Rico, you’ll find a host of cafes that sell these savories. Apart from frituras, you also have cuchifritos, which are fried pork products such as pork rinds. Within their native environment, frituras and cuchifritos are regarded as delicacies. Elsewhere there arises a negative connotation because to the health conscious fried food has a bad rap. It’s a truism that most things taste better when they’re fried. But frying entails fat, and fat is the bugaboo of everyone who aspires to better nutrition. The fact is that food absorbs very little fat when frying is done properly. If you don’t believe that then check the Larousse Gastronomique, the encyclopedia of good cooking. Problem is, most people do not know what proper frying is.

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First, there’s the matter of the correct oil. By that we mean a vegetable oil. Whatever you’ve heard about saturated and non-saturated fats, just remember that vegetable oils have a higher smoke point than animal fats. In the old days, deep frying consisted of dipping everything into hot lard. Tasty but disastrous to your heart. The smoke point is the temperature at which fat begins to smoke and break down, usually around 450° Fahrenheit. This varies from one fat to another, but it’s wise to have an oil whose smoke point is well over 375°F. The oil I prefer is safflower oil. Canola oil or any good quality vegetable oil is acceptable. Second—and some may dispute this—use enough oil. We are not stir frying in a wok. This will not work for Nuyorican cooking. Use a large, heavy bottomed pot or, my favorite, an electric fryer with reliable temperature controls; and fill with enough oil to cover the ingredients to a level at least an inch over the food. Some chefs would argue this point and insist there should be enough oil in the pot so that food can be stirred and moved around freely. When cooking, set the controls for 375°F if you have a fryer. If not, then use a fat thermometer. Or use the time tested method: splash a drop of water or flour in the pan and see if it sizzles. Fry your ingredients in small batches. The more food you have crowded in the pan or skillet, the lower the temperature falls. Let the oil come back up to temperature between batches. If you fry in haste all you’re going to get, after the first crisp-brown batch, is a soggy mess. Always reheat the oil between batches. Following the above rules should provide you with tasty yet healthy fried foods. Remember, not all fats are bad and not all frying is bad. Just use common sense and moderation.

Speaking of moderation, there is the question of what beverage to consume with fritters and appetizers. You’ll notice right off that in this section we don’t include any recommendations on wine. Actually, the term appetizers is misleading. We don’t have appetizers as such. What are termed appetizers to us are like tapas in Spain, savories and tidbits that are enjoyed with dry sherry as the backup. We like cuchifritos and frituras with beer. If one insists on wine, then any good dry white will do, even fino sherry. I suggest staying away from Sauterne or what are known as “mellow semi-sweet wines.” But don’t be afraid to experiment.

BACLAITOS FRITOS (CODFISH FRITTERS) YIELD: About 25 fritters

½ pound dried salt cod (prepared for cooking, see page 99) 3 cups flour ½ teaspoon dried sage 1 teaspoon baking powder 6 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 cup and 2 tablespoons water 3 tablespoons achiote (see page 10) Vegetable or corn oil for frying 1. In a bowl combine the flour, sage and baking powder. 2. In a mortar, crush the peppercorns and garlic. Add 2 tablespoons of water and mix this seasoning with the flour. 3. In a bowl combine the flour and a cup of water to make a batter. 4. Add achiote and stir until batter attains a yellow color. 5. In a heavy frying pan or skillet, add vegetable oil to a depth of ¼ inch. Heat on moderate flame until oil is very hot (375°F, see page 22). Reduce heat to low. Drop a tablespoon of batter into skillet. The mixture will fry very quickly. As soon as it’s set, place a teaspoon of flaked codfish in the center of the fritter. With a small spatula lift part of the fritter, omelet style, to cover the codfish. Cook on both sides until golden. 6. Repeat by spoonfuls, draining the fritters on paper towels. While cooking, the fritters will puff up somewhat. Do not turn or overcook. Discard any scattered pieces of batter that land in the oil while frying.

FRITURAS DE YAUTÍA (YAUTÍA FRITTERS)

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n my parents’ home, yautía (ya-oo-TEE-ah) is probably the most popular of root plants served at the table. It is even more popular than potatoes, with which it shares some characteristics. It has a stark white color when peeled, and a crunchy or creamy taste depending on how long it’s cooked. Yautía also makes great fritters that are good for noshing or with a meal. YIELD: About 8 to 10 fritters

1½ cup yautía, peeled 3 tablespoons baking powder 2 teaspoons sofrito (see page 9) 2 large eggs, lightly beaten ¾ cup finely grated parmesan cheese Salt and ground black pepper to taste Vegetable oil for frying 1. Finely shred the yautía, using either a hand shredder or food processor. 2. Place in a medium-sized bowl and add remaining ingredients. Mix well with the hands. 3. Fill a cast iron or heavy bottomed skillet halfway with vegetable oil. Heat oil until very hot. Drop in a tablespoon of the yautía mixture and fry until golden brown (about 3 minutes to a side). 4. Repeat by spoonfuls, removing fritters with slotted spoon and draining on paper towels.

FRITURAS DE MAÍZ (CORN FRITTERS)

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kay, let’s get it settled once and for all: there are those of you out there who have this thing about canned food. This recipe calls for the use of canned corn. Yes, canned corn. In Puerto Rican cuisine we don’t have this negative outlook on tinned food. We do not deny its benefits. The old caveat goes that if it’s in a can it can’t be as nutritious or as flavorful as fresh or frozen fare. I’ll concede the point: Nothing compares with fresh victuals. But opening a can now and then has its advantages, not the least being time and convenience. There are still certain things that we eat out of cans in the Rivera family: tuna fish comes to mind, peas, certain types of mushrooms and, naturally, beans. Don’t think that because it comes from a tin it has to be bad. YIELD: About 10 to 12 fritters

½ cup flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 8½-ounce can creamed corn 1 egg Salt and ground black pepper to taste Vegetable oil for frying 1. In a bowl, combine all ingredients except oil and mix well. 2. In a cast iron pan or heavy bottomed skillet, add vegetable oil to a depth of ¼ inch. Heat until oil is very hot. Drop in a tablespoon of the mixture and fry in the shape of thin fritters until golden brown. 3. Repeat by spoonfuls, removing the fritters with a slotted spoon and draining on paper towels.

TOSTONES (FRIED GREEN PLANTAINS) YIELD: 12 to 18 tostones

3 green plantains 2 tablespoons salt Vegetable oil for frying 1. To remove skin from the plantain, cut tips at both ends, cut a slit along the length of the plantain and peel off. To facilitate easier handling, some cooks dip plantains in hot water for 5 minutes and then remove the skin. Once plantains are peeled, cut into diagonal slices about 1 inch thick. Reserve peels: typically, the unbroken skin of the plantain is used for flattening the tostones. 2. Combine 4 cups of water and salt in a bowl and soak plantain slices for 30 minutes. Drain well. 3. Fill a cast iron or heavy bottomed skillet halfway with vegetable oil. Heat oil until very hot (375°F, see page 22). Deep fry plantains for 5 to 7 minutes. 4. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. 5. Place a plantain slice between two plantain peels, envelope fashion, and pound flat with the palm of the hand. Repeat until all slices are pressed. Return plantain slices to skillet and cook until golden brown (about 5 minutes longer). Drain on absorbent paper towels and sprinkle lightly with salt.

NOTE: I’m told that in other parts of the Caribbean, notably Jamaica, the plantain slices are deep-fried just once. They

are not pounded and refried. I have tried tostones this way, but it just doesn’t come out the same. For those who follow our method, you can acquire what is called a tostonera in any Latin market. This consists of two pieces of wood or plastic that hinge over to enclose and flatten the plantain slices. Here, again, I defer to tradition. I’ve tried these newfangled contraptions and find them wanting. Nothing beats the plantain peels and the flat of the hand for forming

genuine tostones.

PLATANOS AMARILLOS (SWEET RIPE PLANTAINS) METHOD I: YIELD: 12 to 15 pieces

3 ripe plantains 1. Take 3 ripe plantains and cut in half crosswise at a slant. 2. Boil in water (combined with 1 tablespoon salt) until tender (about 4 to 5 minutes). 3. Drain and let cool. Cut a slit along the length of the halves and peel. Cut into diagonal slices 1 to 2 inches thick and serve.

METHOD II: YIELD: 12 to 18 pieces

3 ripe plantains Vegetable oil for frying 1. Peel 3 ripe plantains. Cut into diagonal slices about ½ inch thick and 3 inches long. 2. Deep-fry in hot oil until slightly browned and tender (about 3 to 4 minutes). Drain on paper towels.

RELLENOS DE AMARILLOS (STUFFED RIPE PLANTAINS) YIELD: 8 to 10 stuffed plantain balls

3 ripe plantains 2 tablespoons sofrito (see page 9) ¼ cup tomato sauce ½ pound lean ground pork 2 tablespoons raisins ½ cup flour Vegetable oil for frying 1. Place plantains in a pot with water to cover and boil until tender (about 4 to 5 minutes). Let cool, peel and mash. Set aside. 2. Heat sofrito in a medium skillet or frying pan. Add tomato sauce and sauté over moderate-high heat for about 3 minutes. Add pork, ¼ cup of water and raisins. Stir to mix. Cover and simmer on low heat for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. 3. Spread flour evenly on a flat plate. Place some of the mashed plantains on the plate and flatten into a circle. 4. Place a tablespoon of the pork filling in the center and bring the edges together to shape into a ball. 5. Fill a cast iron or heavy bottomed skillet halfway with vegetable oil. Heat until oil is very hot. Deep-fry plantain balls until light brown. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

DOMPLINES (DUMPLINGS)

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n our tribe, the person who made the best dumplings was my grandmother, Adelaida— who was known to all as Dõna Lala. What I remember about Grandma Lala is that she was a heavy smoker and liked her brew, especially Ballantine Ale. Even so, she lived well into her eighties. Our sweetest recollection is of Sunday mornings when she would prepare mounds of domplines to go with the ham and eggs. She had it down to a science and could make a batch in minutes. YIELD: About 20 dumplings

4 cups flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 2 tablespoons shortening 1 cup lukewarm water ½ teaspoon salt Vegetable oil for frying 1. Combine flour, baking powder and shortening in a glass bowl. 2. Add salt to water and add to flour, a bit at a time, while mixing with a wooden spoon until it forms a doughy consistency. 3. Remove this dough to a lightly floured surface and knead continuously with hands until soft. 4. Form kneaded dough into a horseshoe shape and set aside. 5. Fill a cast iron or heavy bottomed skillet halfway with vegetable oil. Heat until oil is very hot. Break off a small piece of dough and shape into a round patty. Drop patty into skillet and stir-fry until golden (about 5 minutes). Repeat until dough is all gone. Remove and drain on absorbent paper towels. NOTE: If a little color is desired, 4 to 5 tablespoons of achiote (see page 10) can be added to the flour during the first

step. This will render truly golden-yellow dumplings.

ALCAPURRIAS (STUFFED GREEN BANANAS)

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lcapurrias could be a traditional Caribbean word or island slang of more recent derivation. Wherever the word came from, the snack is very popular with islanders and Nuyoricans alike. Alcapurrias are classed with the frituras and cuchifritos of the takeout joints. Basic alcapurrias are made with green bananas; what we call Guineos (Gheeneh-oss). We lump green bananas in the bianda category and normally serve them boiled and drizzled with olive oil. So you’re probably saying to yourself, who the hell would eat green bananas? Simple: anyone who knows how good they are, cooked in a sauce or, as we have it here, stuffed with ground beef. YIELD: About 15 alcapurrias

6 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled ½ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon vinegar 1 pound lean ground beef ¼ cup tomato sauce 3 pounds green bananas 1 large green plantain ½ cup achiote (see page 10) Vegetable oil for frying 1. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, salt and oregano. Blend in olive oil and vinegar. Add seasoning to the beef and mix. 2. Brown seasoned beef in a skillet over high heat (no extra oil is necessary). Reduce heat to low. Stir in tomato sauce and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove meat to a bowl and set aside. 3. Peel bananas and plantain, and cut in half. Grate the bananas and plantain using the grating disk of a food processor or a hand held shredder. Mix in a bowl with the achiote; then mash with a fork or potato masher. 4. Spread some of the banana-plantain mix in the palm of your hand (keep palms wet while doing this). With your fingers make a small nest in the center of the mix in your palm, and stuff with about a spoonful of the beef filling. Cover the filling with

more mix and shape into a cylinder or croquette. Repeat until filling and bananas are used up. 5. Deep-fry in very hot oil (375°F) until golden brown (about 4 minutes each). Remove and drain on absorbent paper towels.

ALCAPURRIAS DE YUCA (STUFFED CASSAVA)

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he American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language defines cassava as a tropical American plant with a starchy root from which tapioca is derived. To us Latinos from the Caribbean, it’s yuca (yoo-ka). Yuca, like yautía, is most commonly served peeled and boiled with a bit of olive oil sprinkled on top. But it also yields a bitter or sweet starch known as manioc which is used in the making of farina and, of course, tapioca. For those who are interested in arcane terminology, manioc is a word of Tupian origin, attributed to the Tupis, a group of American Indian tribes living along the coast of Brazil and the Amazon River valley. To explorers from the Old World, this new food was a wonder. YIELD: About 8 to 10 alcapurrias, depending on size

2 pounds yuca, peeled and cut into large chunks 2 tablespoons achiote (see page 10) 2 teaspoons salt 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound lean ground beef ½ cup sofrito (see page 9) 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce Vegetable oil for frying 1. Finely grate the yuca with a shredder or food processor. Rinse in a colander with cold water. Drain, pressing with the hand to remove as much excess moisture as possible. Place in a bowl, add achiote and salt, and mix well. Set aside. 2. Heat oil in a large skillet or fry pan. Add beef and stir-fry over medium heat until meat loses its red color. Add sofrito plus tomato sauce and sauté 3 to 4 minutes. 3. Simmer on low heat, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Add 3 tablespoons lukewarm water and cook, covered, another 15 minutes. 4. Place ½ cup yuca mix on a plate or large sheet of wax paper. Spread the mix to form a circle. Place a tablespoon of beef filling in the center. Bring edges together to close filling and shape into a cylinder or croquette. Repeat until filling and yuca are used up. 5. Deep-fry in hot oil until golden brown (about 4 minutes each). Remove and drain well on paper towels.

PAPAS RELLENAS (STUFFED POTATO BALLS) YIELD: 6 to 8 stuffed potato balls, depending on size

1 pound Idaho or Maine potatoes, peeled 2 tablespoons olive oil ½ pound lean ground beef 2 tablespoons sofrito (see page 9) 2 tablespoons tomato sauce 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons butter 1 egg, lightly beaten 2 teaspoons cornstarch Vegetable oil for frying 1. Rinse potatoes under cold running water and pat dry. 2. Place in a pot or medium saucepan. Add 2 cups of water and boil on moderate heat, covered, until tender (about 30 minutes). 3. Meanwhile, for filling, heat oil in a skillet or fry pan. Add beef and stir-fry over medium heat until meat loses its red color. Add sofrito, tomato sauce, oregano and salt. Mix and sauté 3 to 4 minutes. 4. Cover and simmer on low heat for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. 5. Drain potatoes, place in a bowl and mash with a fork or potato masher. 6. Add butter, egg and one teaspoon cornstarch. Mix well and let cool. 7. Spread some of the potato dough mix in the palm of your hand (keep palms wet while doing this). With fingers make a small nest in the center of palm, and stuff with a spoonful of the filling. Cover the filling with more dough mix and shape into a ball. Brush lightly with cornstarch. Repeat until filling and mix are used up. 8. Deep-fry in hot oil until golden brown. Remove and drain on paper towels.

MOFONGO (PLANTAINS AND PORK CRACKLING)

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ofongo. I love the word. Pronounced just like it’s spelled. Undoubtedly of African origin. Basic mofongo is simply a mixture of crushed plantains with fried pork crackling, served with a sauce. We prepare it as individually shaped mofongo balls, similar to meatballs. Cuban mofongo differs in that the mixture is shaped into one large ball that is served in a bowl. More modern variations have this type of mofongo stuffed with beef or seafood. Whatever method you prefer, it is a delicious appetizer, side dish, or a meal on its own. YIELD: 12 or more mofongo balls

5 green plantains ½ pound salt pork, washed and diced 3 cloves garlic, peeled 2 tablespoons olive oil Vegetable oil for frying 1. Peel plantains and cut into diagonal slices about 1-inch thick. 2. Place plantains and diced salt pork in a pot with water to cover. Let soak for 10 minutes. 3. Drain and wipe dry both plantains and salt pork. 4. Place salt pork in a hot skillet or frying pan (no extra oil is necessary). Stir-fry over high heat until pieces are browned and crisp (about 5 minutes) and put aside. This is known as the chicharrón or pork crackling. 5. Deep-fry plantains in hot oil and chicharrón until golden. Drain well on paper towels. 6. Crush plantains and pork crackling together in a mortar. This may have to be done in batches depending on size of mortar. Place in a bowl and set aside. 7. Crush garlic cloves in the mortar. Blend in olive oil. 8. Add garlic-oil seasoning to the plantains and crackling and mix thoroughly. 9. Scoop up a tablespoon of the mixture and shape into a ball (about 2 inches in diameter, or larger if desired). Repeat until mix is used up. 10. Serve by itself or with a favorite sauce or gravy.

GUANIMES (CORNMEAL STICKS) YIELD: About 20 or more

4 cups yellow cornmeal 3 cups flour 3 tablespoons butter or margarine 1 teaspoon sugar 3 cups hot water 1 tablespoon shortening 2 tablespoons salt 1. In a large bowl, combine cornmeal, flour, butter and sugar. Mix well. 2. Gradually add hot water, stirring mixture until it has a soft consistency. It may not be necessary to use all of the hot water. Just use enough to form a fine yet firm dough. 3. Add 1 tablespoon shortening and knead well with the hands. 4. In a large pot, combine 3 quarts (12 cups) water and salt. Bring to a boil. Break off a small piece of dough and form into a small cigar shape with blunt ends. Repeat until mixture is used up. Drop into boiling water and cook for 20 minutes. If necessary, add an extra tablespoon of shortening to boiling water to keep guanimes from sticking. Stir occasionally, but very gently. 5. Remove with slotted spoon and serve. NOTE: Guanimes are served with stewed codfish (see page 100).

AREPAS DE MAÍZ (CORNMEAL PATTIES) YIELD: About 16 patties

¾ cup yellow cornmeal ½ teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup grated cheddar cheese 2 cups olive oil 1. In a large saucepan combine cornmeal, 3 cups water, sugar and salt. Cook on low heat, stirring frequently, until slightly thickened. 2. Remove from heat. Add cheddar and mix thoroughly. Let cool. 3. Scoop up a tablespoon of mixture and form a small ball in palm of your hands. Flatten the ball into a patty. Repeat until mixture is used up. 4. Heat oil in a medium-sized skillet or fry pan. Fry cornmeal patties over medium heat until golden brown (about 5 minutes each). Remove and drain on absorbent paper towels.

RELLENOS DE HARINA DE MAÍZ (STUFFED CORNMEAL BALLS)

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n Puerto Rico there are cooks who prepare this dish as pastelillos or meat pies. This entails the use of plantain leaves. A portion of cornmeal and filling is placed on a leaf, which is then folded to give the meat pie its shape. Lastly, the meat pie is carefully removed from the plantain leaf and deep fried, hopefully retaining its form. Nuyoricans find this time consuming. We’ve developed our own way of doing things. We shape the cornmeal mixture with the hands or, better still, by using two spoons. YIELD: About 8 stuffed cornmeal balls

1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons butter or margarine 2 cups yellow cornmeal ½ cup flour ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons sofrito (see page 9) 1 cup lean ground beef (about ¾ pound) 2 tablespoons tomato sauce Vegetable oil for frying 1. Boil 1 cup of water in a small saucepan and add the salt and butter. 2. Combine cornmeal and flour in a bowl. Add the boiling water, mixing well to form a soft dough. Set aside and let stand for 30 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a skillet or cast iron pan. Add sofrito and ground beef. Sauté over medium heat until meat loses its red color. 4. Stir in tomato sauce. Cover and simmer on low heat for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. 5. Using a serving spoon (like a big rice spoon), scoop out a spoonful of cornmeal mix. Smooth out the mixture so that it’s level with the spoon. Place a teaspoon of beef filling atop the cornmeal. Cover filling with a tablespoon filled level with the cornmeal mix and shape the whole cornmeal ball into an oval. Keep the spoons slightly wet while doing this. Some cooks prefer to shape cornmeal balls by hand. Use whichever technique works best for you. 6. Deep-fry in hot oil until golden.

EMPANADILLAS (STUFFED MEAT PIES)

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his delicacy is called gaucho pie in some circles. To us, gaucho pies are a pale imitation. Our pies are bigger and have more filling. I think in our family Uncle Phillip holds the record. He could consume half a dozen of these at one sitting. Now, that’s an accomplishment. YIELD: About 10 empanadillas, depending on size

3 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound lean ground beef 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 4 cups flour 4 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon sugar ¼ cup water mixed with ¼ teaspoon salt Vegetable oil for frying 1. Heat olive oil in a large skillet or frying pan. Add beef, bell pepper, onion, garlic, salt and ground pepper. Sauté over high heat, stirring constantly, until meat loses its red color. 2. Reduce heat to low, stir in tomato sauce and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine 3 cups of the flour, vegetable oil, baking soda, sugar and salted water. Sift through the hands until the flour is moistened and a soft dough is formed. 4. Roll out dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead gently. 5. Break off a small piece of dough and flatten into a patty. Using a rolling pin, roll out dough into a circle 6 to 7 inches in diameter. Fill center with a tablespoon of beef filling, and fold circle in half. Using a small plate as a guide, trim off any excess dough to get a perfect half-moon shape. Seal edges by pressing all the way round with tines of a fork. Repeat until ingredients are used up, dusting the surface and

empanadillas with flour, as needed, to prevent sticking. 6. Deep-fry in hot oil until golden (about 3 to 4 minutes). Remove and drain on absorbent paper towels.

EMPANADAS DE YUCA (CASSAVA MEAT PIE)

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his meat pie differs from the preceding recipe in that the ingredients are traditionally wrapped in plantain leaves and the stuffed empanada is then baked in a medium oven. The most famous use of plantain leaves in our culture is in the preparation of pasteles. Making pasteles (see page 260) we keep to tradition. But with empanadas we find that individually wrapping them in aluminum foil works just as well. This is another yuca recipe. What we haven’t mentioned is that legend has it that, if overcooked, yuca can become toxic. Well, the Riveras have been cooking and eating this root plant for generations and no one has been poisoned yet—and we tend to like yuca well done. YIELD: About 10 to 12 empanadas

2 pounds yuca (cassava), peeled and cut into chunks 6 tablespoons achiote (see page 10) 1 egg, slightly beaten ¼ cup chicken broth or bouillon ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons sofrito (see page 9) 4 ounces tomato sauce 2 cups lean ground pork 1 tablespoon capers 6 pimento stuffed Spanish olives, chopped Aluminum foil 1. Finely grate yuca chunks with a hand shredder or food processor. Place in a colander and rinse with cold water. Drain, pressing yuca with the hand to squeeze out as much excess liquid as possible. 2. Place yuca in a bowl and mix with 2 tablespoons achiote, egg and chicken broth. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside. 3. Heat oil in a large skillet and stir-fry sofrito over medium heat for 2 minutes. 4. Add tomato sauce and sauté 3 minutes more.

5. Add pork, capers and olives. Mix well. 6. Cover and simmer over low heat for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. 7. Preheat oven to 350°F. 8. Cut a piece of aluminum foil 7″ × 8½″. Brush with achiote and place ½ cup yuca mix in the center. Spread to form a small circle. Place a heaping tablespoon of pork on yuca mix. Fold aluminum in half to join top and bottom of empanada, enclosing filling. Crimp and fold the edges of empanada to seal. Repeat until mix and filling are used up. 9. Place empanada wrapped in foil on a greased baking dish, seam side down, fitting wrappers together in single rows. Bake for 15 minutes. Turn over carefully with a spatula and bake another 15 minutes. 10. Remove from oven. Turn over wrappers so that they are seam side up. Carefully open foil, taking care not to burn your fingers. Remove from foil and serve.

GUINEITOS NIÑOS (FINGER BANANAS)

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he translation for guineitos niños is “children’s bananas.” In Cuba they call them ciento en boca. Don’t ask me what it means for I have no idea. The Dominicans have another name for it which is synonymous with the genitalia of a male child. For the sake of propriety, no translation is offered. These kiddie bananas are favored throughout the Caribbean and Central America. They are small, about 3 inches long, and are cooked when ripe. The method is fast frying, although in Cuba they are sometimes eaten raw. Finger bananas are sweet, and they serve as a counterpoint to any spicy entrée. My people like them in the morning with eggs sunny side up. They are also great with plain white rice. Another popular way of cooking them is to dip them in batter and deep-fry. This is known as jibaritos envueltos, which translates as “hillbilly in disguise” or “hillbilly covered up.” In Puerto Rico, a jíbaro is a rural country bumpkin. Some would describe a jíbaro as a peasant, or what is known in Mexico as a peon. With us the term, rather than being disparaging, connotes endearment. To native Puerto Ricans a jíbaro is a rustic yet good-natured soul who has an innate wisdom a lot of us lack. How finger bananas came to be identified with jíbaros I do not know. Guineitos niños are easy to cook, great on their own or with any side dish. They can be found in most bodegas. YIELD: 24 guineitos niños

12 finger bananas Vegetable oil or butter for frying Freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1. Peel bananas. Slice in half lengthwise. 2. Heat about ½ cup vegetable oil or 4 tablespoons butter in a skillet or frying pan. 3. Fry over moderate-high heat until golden brown. This is a quick process, about 2 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels. 4. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and serve.

PAN DE AJO (GARLIC BREAD)

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e really don’t know if garlic bread can be classified as an appetizer. It certainly is not a fritter. But we couldn’t think of anywhere else to put this snack, so here it is. By the way, we’ve been making garlic bread in my family since before I ever heard of Mediterranean cuisine. 1 loaf Italian bread or baguette 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced Olive oil Dried oregano 2 tablespoons butter or margarine Ground black pepper to taste Freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Cut loaf in half lengthwise, but on one side only so that the two halves are still attached. 3. Sprinkle the inside of each loaf with minced garlic. 4. Drizzle each half with olive oil to taste. (We put in generous amounts since we are olive oil fanatics and conveniently ignore any weight problems we may have.) Sprinkle with oregano and dot both sides with 3 pats of butter; then sprinkle with pepper. 5. Wrap bread in aluminum foil and bake 15 minutes. 6. Remove from foil and cut loaf into slices about 2 inches thick, but not all the way through. The loaf should still be attached on one side. Each person simply breaks off individual slices of garlic bread during dinner. It’s fun passing it around. NOTE: If crispier garlic bread is desired, forego the baking and put the loaf in the broiler, doughy side up, and toast until

nicely brown. Then slice as instructed in step 6.

SOUPS

“Let’s go to the Greeks and have some soup.” am not a soup person. I am a pasta person, a vegetable and fish person. Not a soup person. Still, there are certain liquid foods that leave me hankering for more. Especially thick, hearty concoctions that make one sweat. On the hottest days of the year, back in the old neighborhood, my mother would ply us with a steaming mondongo or sancocho. There was no consideration of the weather or climate. Just the appeasement of the senses. There’s something earthy about hot steamy soup on a hot steamy day. Naturally, our views have changed with the intervening years. While in Ponce, my mother fed the Old Man cold salads on hot days with iced tea as backup. That old Americanization process.

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On the mainland, we often think of soups as being the first course of a meal. When they shine on their own, we envision something robust like a ragout or pottage. Nuyorican cuture has followed this tack. Our soups are healthy suppers for the most part. We have our share of stocks and thin broths, but that’s for when you’re ill, trying to get over some bug. Like our Jewish brethren, we consider chicken soup to be a marvelous restorative. A plain rice soup hits the spot anytime one needs a pickup. But the real measure of a soup is the quantity of vegetables, condiments, fideos (thin noodles) and coloring you put in it. Our soups are made with love. Oddly enough, when I think of soup, my memory travels back not to the home fires but to a particular diner that existed long ago on the corner of Prospect Avenue, right below the Lexington Avenue el. The place was extremely popular with the Latino community mainly because of its huge servings and inexpensive prices. Customers flocked through its doors from the Bronx, the Barrio and even the outer boroughs. This was a singular distinction in that the place was owned by Greeks. And it was affectionately known to one and all as Los Griegos. If the establishment had a formal name, no one knew. It was always, “Let’s go to the Greeks and have some carne mechada (a type of pot roast),” or “Let’s go to the Greeks and have some soup.” That was one of its standouts, the great stews they made right on the premises; nothing from a can. These included their navy bean soup, thick and chunky; their clam chowder; and a homemade concoction of beef liver, flat noodles and beef broth. This liver soup was especially popular among the black clientele. Even more popular than the ham slices and the collard greens. Before a midnight flight back to the island or awaiting a morning flight to pick up some family member coming in from San Juan, we’d stop at the Greeks and indulge in some shrimp bisque or caldo de pollo (chicken broth). The place was open 24 hours, a convenience not found anywhere else in that neighborhood. It offered a daily special to boot, sometimes soup, sometimes not. The cashier and manager was a gregarious sort named Jimmy who was always arguing with his chief cook and bottle washer, a man named Alex but whom Jimmy called Aleko. Los Griegos is no more. A wistful memory from when the world was young. None of

the current generation knows about it. But among their elders the place is legend. In the tenements of the Barrio, the projects in Brooklyn, and even among the retirees in San Juan, they still recall that famous menu; and their eyes glitter when someone says, “Do you remember that Wednesday black bean soup at Los Griegos?”

CALDO GALLEGO (GALICIAN STYLE BROTH)

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lmost all of the better restaurants on the island carry caldo gallego on their menu. Even in Ponce the measure of a good establishment is not its paella but this vigorous soup brought over from Galicia. I’m told that in Galicia the base ingredient of this broth is an aged bacon called unto (oon-toh). Since we don’t import this bacon, lean cured ham or salt pork is used. Also, in Spain the soup is cooked in a large earthenware pot and is served in earthenware bowls. Nuyoricans consider a caldera and soup plates to be just as good. YIELD: 6 to 8 servings

½ pound dry white beans 3 ounces lean cured ham or salt pork, washed and diced ½ pound smoked ham, washed and cut into bite-sized pieces 1 small onion, peeled and sliced 1 pound potatoes, peeled and quartered 3 turnips, rinsed and quartered 1 10-ounce package frozen turnip greens Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Rinse beans under cold running water and drain. 2. Place beans in a large kettle or Dutch oven. Add water to cover by about 2 inches, cured ham, smoked ham and onion. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low heat for 2 hours. 3. Add remaining ingredients and more water if necessary. Gently stir to mix. Bring to a second boil, cover and simmer on low heat for 1 more hour.

CALDO DE POLLO (CHICKEN STOCK)

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he Rivera family experts contend that only an old hen will render a truly flavorful chicken stock. You can elect to use a roasting chicken, broiler-fryer, or even a stewing chicken. But nothing beats a big old hen, which can be found at the local poultry market or vivero. You’re not likely to find this item in a supermarket. If you’re fortunate enough to find a hen, you’ll discover that the family experts are right. If not, go with a regular chicken or chicken parts. The cooking time will be shortened however. For example, with a broiler-fryer, the cooking will take about one hour to get very tender pieces. An old hen takes longer as you can see below. This stock can be served on its own or can be used as a base for other dishes. Leftover broth can be stored in the freezer for up to three months. Be aware that with refrigeration the fat will congeal on the surface. Simply remove this fat and proceed with your recipe. YIELD: 8 to 9 cups

1 2½–3 pound hen (neck and giblets included), cut in parts 1 medium onion, peeled ½ of 1 medium green bell pepper, seeded 2 cloves garlic, peeled ½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns 1 bay leaf ½ cup fresh parsley, with stems ¼ teaspoon ground cumin (optional) ½ teaspoon paprika or achiote (see page 10) 1. Wash hen pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Place in a large kettle or Dutch oven. Add 3 quarts (12 cups) water, onion, bell pepper, garlic and peppercorns. 3. Bring to a roiling boil. Cover, lower heat and simmer for 2 hours, occasionally skimming off the foam that forms on top. 4. Add bay leaf, parsley, cumin and achiote. Add more water, if needed, and continue simmering for another hour. 5. Strain on a colander atop a large bowl. Discard vegetables and chicken. Pour stock into small containers, cover tightly and store in freezer.

SOPA DE LENTEJAS (LENTIL SOUP)

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hen preparing lentil soup, the mind boggles with what you can mix in. Celery, carrots and mushrooms are among the most common vegetables added to the pot. Smoked ham or ham hocks are other ingredients popular with this stew. In some recipes rice is mixed with the broth. Depending on amount of liquid and cooking time, you can make it as thin or as thick as you like. Our version is quite simple—lentils, chorizo and potatoes. We include tomato sauce for added flavor and coloring. Some cooks prefer to adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper after the soup is done. It’s a matter of personal preference. Whichever way you season it, the soup should be served piping hot, with or without croutons. YIELD: 6 servings

½ pound lentils ¼ cup olive oil 1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 2 chicken bouillon cubes 2 medium Idaho or Maine potatoes, peeled and quartered 2 chorizo sausages, casings removed and sliced into ½-inch rounds 1 teaspoon dried thyme 2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro leaves 1 bay leaf ½ can tomato sauce Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Rinse lentils under cold running water. Set aside. 2. Heat oil in a kettle or Dutch oven. Add onion, bell pepper and garlic. Stir-fry until tender but not browned. 3. Stir in lentils. Add 6 cups of water and remaining ingredients. Mix well and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer on low heat until lentils are tender but not mushy (about 2 hours). Remove and discard bay leaf. Serve immediately. WINE: The Valpolicella region near Verona (the home of Romeo and Juliet) gives us Amarone (Ah-mah-RO-nay), a big

powerful red. Serve at room temperature.

SANCOCHO

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ancocho is the archetypical stew in Puerto Rican and, by extension, Nuyorican cuisine. Even more so than asopao. The only thing similar in continental cuisine would be the French dish called cassoulet in which beans, pork, lamb and garlic sausages are all mixed together in a casserole. Sancocho follows along the same line but without the beans. Instead we have an assortment of vegetables that are added to the broth. These include such root plants as yuca (yoo-kah), known also as cassava; yautía (ya-oo-teeah), also called tanier or dasheen; and ñame (nyah-meh), a starchy root akin to yams. Like many Caribbean words, sancocho does not have any definitive translation. In Puerto Rican slang, sancochar means to boil or stew. Suffice to say that it is a platter rich in pork, chicken and what have you. Making a sancocho is not a quick effort. It takes time and patience to cook, infinite patience. The result is an ultimately superior meal in itself.

YIELD: 12 servings

½ cup olive oil 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 medium onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 3 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped 6 fresh cilantro leaves, washed and chopped 1 pound boneless chuck beef, trimmed of fat and cut into 1-inch chunks 1 pound pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch chunks 1 medium stewing chicken (about 2½ pounds), washed and cut into serving pieces 1 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 teaspoon dried oregano 2 ears fresh corn, shucked and quartered ½ pound yuca, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces ½ pound yautía, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces ½ pound ñame, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 2 medium yams, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces ½ pound pumpkin, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 3 green plantains, peeled and quartered ½ cup tomato sauce 1 teaspoon salt 1. Heat oil in a large kettle or Dutch oven and add bell pepper, onion, garlic, ají dulce and cilantro. Sauté over moderate heat until tender (4 to 5 minutes). 2. Add beef, pork, chicken, pepper, oregano. Cook until meat is browned (8 to 10 minutes). 3. With a slotted spoon, remove chicken pieces from pot and set aside. 4. Add corn, yuca, yautía, ñame, yams, pumpkin and plantains to meat. 5. Add water to cover contents in pot, also add tomato sauce and salt. Bring to a boil. Cover, lower heat and simmer for 30 minutes. 6. Add chicken and continue to cook on low heat until meat is tender (about 2½ hours). 7. Uncover and remove plantains. Place in a bowl and mash with a potato masher or big spoon. Let cool for a few minutes. Form into small balls with palms of hand. Return to kettle and boil for 1 to 2 minutes. 8. Serve with crusty Italian bread. WINE: The most full-bodied of Rhone wines is Côte-Rôtie (Coat Ro-tee). Rich, red, with an unusual spiciness, it is best

served at room temperature.

GAZPACHO

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his refreshing cold soup is one of those creations whose flavor improves after several hours in the fridge. My informants tell me that its origin is Andalusia, a region in southernmost Spain. It’s very easy to prepare and is normally served in cold cups or chilled soup plates; it’s garnished with croutons, chopped cucumbers and scallions. For extra effect, some prefer to add a dash of pepper or lemon vodka. YIELD: 6 servings

3 medium cucumbers, peeled, seeded and diced 5 medium ripe tomatoes, split in half, seeds squeezed out and coarsely chopped 1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded and coarsely chopped 1 large onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed ¾ cup chicken broth or bouillon 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar ½ teaspoon salt (optional) ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper 3 tablespoons olive oil 1. Place all ingredients, except for the olive oil, into the container of a food processor or blender. Process at high speed for 1 minute to puree vegetables. 2. Pour into a bowl and whisk in the olive oil. 3. Cover bowl tightly with foil or plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours before serving. WINE: Dry fino sherry.

SOPA DE POLLO CON FIDEOS (CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP)

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hicken noodle soup. What is lovingly termed “Jewish penicillin.” We also have our version. We use fideos noodles, thin strands similar to angel hair or vermicelli. I’d say that, apart from spaghetti, fideos noodles are the most popular pasta in the Nuyorican community, although it’s almost exclusively used in soups. We have a long standing family joke about how my father and his close friend, Julius, whom everyone knew as Lupo, went out on a cold winter’s night in the wilds of Brooklyn looking for a box of fideos to complement the stew that Lupo’s spouse was making at home. They had just arrived on the mainland and their English wasn’t that good. They knew about fideos but did not know that the comparable English word is “noodle.” It so happened that they came across an all night deli, whereupon my father tried to explain to the proprietor that they wanted a box of fideos. In Spanish we pronounce is as fee-deh-us—which the deli owner had never heard of. So Lupo tried pronouncing it as he thought it sounded in English, which came out as fee-dee-ooos. He kept pronouncing the word over and over, and the deli owner kept shaking his head wondering what these foreigners were talking about. Eventually my father and Lupo settled for a box of vermicelli. Of such ludicrous moments are family legends made. Lupo has passed on to his greater reward but we’re still laughing at his expense. YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

1 broiler-fryer (about 2–2½ pounds), cut in parts ½ pound fideos (see above) 2 medium Idaho or Maine potatoes, cut into 1-inch cubes 2 tablespoons sofrito (see page 9) 1 chicken bouillon cube ¼ cup tomato sauce Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon fresh chopped parsley 1. Rinse chicken under cold running water and pat dry. 2. Place chicken in a large kettle or Dutch oven and add 2 quarts (8 cups) water. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer, covered, for 1 hour or until chicken is very tender. 3. Remove chicken to a cutting board and let cool. Bone chicken, discarding bones and skin. Cut meat into bite-size pieces. 4. Add chicken pieces, fideos, potatoes, sofrito, bouillon cube and tomato sauce to

the broth. Add another cup of water, if needed, and season with salt and pepper. 5. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low heat for 15 minutes. Garnish with parsley.

MONDONGO

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nother of those African sounding names. It could have been coined by the Carib Indians. But more likely it was labeled by the black slaves imported to the island during the Spanish colonization. What gives this dish its singular distinction is the use of tripe in the recipe. Now, tripe is in the category of such unconventional foods as sweetbreads, calf’s brains and octopus. Upon first hearing of it, most people will go, “Yuck!” But there’s nothing yucky about it. Like codfish and calamares, it has its adherents. In mondongo, the tripe is teamed up with another not so sophisticated comestible: calf’s feet. My friends, don’t prejudge. Give it a chance. That way you might discover why on Sunday mornings all the wasted partygoers line up for orders of mondongo in Spanish Harlem and San Juan. My relatives tell me it’s the best thing for a hangover the day after. In Ponce there are two or three hole-in-the-wall joints whose claim to fame comes from the fact that they make mondongo not with calf’s feet but with pig’s feet. Legions of aficionados seek out this special platter—and at a buck-fifty it’s just the right price. My Uncle Carlos claims that when you put a plate of mondongo in front of my dad, his eyes would light up like a kid in love. Tripe can be found in most supermarkets these days. It looks like a white sheet patterend with honeycombs. All you do is trim any excess cartilage, rub the tripe with lemons or limes and boil. Cooking time will vary depending on how fresh the tripe is. One and a half to two hours should be sufficient for the tripe to get tender. With calf’s feet, the same time principle applies. More convenient, calf’s feet is usually packaged in pieces, so you don’t have to bother with cutting it up. Mondongo is similar to sancocho in that root plants are simmered with the broth. But in mondongo some cooks also include macaroni. We do not; we keep it traditional. Still, if the yen is there, a half pound of macaroni can be added to the stew during the last fifteen minutes of cooking. YIELD: 8 servings

3 pounds beef tripe, trimmed 1 pound calf’s feet, cut up in serving pieces 4 lemons or limes ½ pound pumpkin, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces ½ pound yautía, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces ½ pound ñame, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 2 medium yams, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 2 tablespoons sofrito (see page 9)

½ cup tomato sauce 1 teaspoon salt 1. Rinse tripe and calf’s feet under cold running water. Pat dry with paper towels and set aside calf’s feet. 2. Rub tripe with lemons and place in a large kettle or pot. Squeeze juice of lemons over tripe and add water to cover by about 2 inches. Cook in boiling water over moderate-high heat for 15 minutes. 3. Drain water and remove tripe. Rinse again under cold running water and place tripe on a cutting board. Cut tripe into 1 ½ × ½-inch strips. 4. Return tripe and calf’s feet to kettle and add fresh water to cover. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer, covered, until tripe is tender (1 ½–2 hours). 5. Add pumpkin, yautía, ñame, yams, sofrito, tomato sauce and salt. Cover and continue simmering at a low boil until vegetables are tender (about ½ hour). If a thicker stew is preferred, simmer, uncovered, during the last 10 minutes of cooking. WINE: Two very different choices. Saint Romain (San Ro-mahn) is a medium-bodied dry red from the French town of

the same name. Best served at room temperature. Erbacher (Air-bach-uh) are hefty white wines from Germany’s Rheingau region; Marcobrunn in considered the best vineyard. Serve chilled.

ASOPAO DE GANDULES CON ARROZ (PIGEON PEAS WITH RICE SOUP)

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hefty stew that is served at table with tostones (fried green plantains). You can avoid the bother of using fresh pigeon peas and use canned peas instead. The cooking time for the peas will be cut by more than half since canned peas come precooked. Problem is, as my elders claim, it will not be kosher. You lose the soul of the dish when using canned peas. Some people really believe that. If you’re looking for quickie convenience, this is not the recipe to try. But if you can put in the time and love required, you’ll be amply rewarded. YIELD: 8 servings

½ pound fresh pigeon peas 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup rice 1 cup water 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 ounce lean cured ham, washed and diced ½ ounce salt pork, washed and diced 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and finely chopped 1 medium tomato, coarsely chopped 4 fresh cilantro leaves, washed and chopped 6 pimento stuffed Spanish olives ½ teaspoon capers 3 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped 4 tablespoons tomato sauce 2 tablespoons achiote (see page 10) 2 cups water 1. Rinse pigeon peas under cold running water, drain. Place in a large saucepan or pot with 2 quarts (8 cups) water and salt. Boil on moderate-high heat, covered, for 1 hour. Drain, reserve cooking liquid and set peas aside. 2. While peas are cooking, place rice and 1 cup water in a bowl and let soak. 3. Heat oil in a large kettle or Dutch oven. Add ham and salt pork and stir-fry over

moderate-high heat until brown 4. Add onion, bell pepper, tomato, cilantro, olives, capers, ají dulce and tomato sauce. Sauté over moderate heat for 10 minutes. 5. Add achiote and pigeon peas. Mix well and cook for 5 minutes. 6. Drain rice and add to kettle. Pour in reserved liquid. Stir to combine while gradually adding 2 cups water. Bring to a boil and cook on high heat, uncovered, for 10 minutes. 7. Lower heat and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes more. Serve immediately. WINE: A light red such as a Bardolino or gamay, lightly chilled.

SOPA DE ESPINACA (SPINACH SOUP)

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his is my Aunt Fanny’s quickie soup. She claims you can add whatever seasonings you want to enhance the taste but, by her lights, the best is Victor’s Passover seasoning. How Aunt Fanny, who was born in Puerto Rico, discovered Victor’s Passover seasoning, I would not want to guess. It comes in packets and it’s similar to poultry seasoning. If you can’t find Victor’s famous seasoning, then salt, pepper, a little oregano and a dash of curry can perk up the soup. Though Aunt Fanny has never tried this recipe with any other green, I’m sure that any frozen vegetable can be substituted for the spinach. My favorite would be frozen chopped broccoli. YIELD: 2 servings

1 10-ounce package frozen spinach 2 cups chicken broth or bouillon Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. In a medium saucepan, combine spinach and chicken broth. Bring to a boil, separating spinach with a fork. Cover and simmer on low heat for 10 minutes. 2. Add seasoning and serve. Garnish with chopped fresh parsley or dill.

FRIJOLES NEGROS (BLACK BEAN SOUP)

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t’s a misnomer to call this a soup. In the pot it looks more like a pottage without the meat. Frijoles negros is very popular both in Puerto Rico and Cuba. You can serve it by itself in bowls or soup plates, or over hot cooked rice. At the table it’s garnished with chopped Spanish onions, also known as red onions. YIELD: 8 servings

1 pound dry black beans 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 ounces lean cured ham 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced 4 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped 6 fresh cilantro leaves, washed and chopped 2 quarts (8 cups) chicken broth or bouillon 1 teaspoon dried oregano 2 bay leaves ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 teaspoon salt 1. Soak beans overnight to soften after removing any that are cracked or discolored (see page 241). Drain and rinse under cold running water. 2. Heat oil in a large kettle or Dutch oven. Add ham and stir-fry over high heat until browned. 3. Add onion, bell pepper, garlic, ají dulce and cilantro. Sauté on moderate heat until vegetables are soft and tender (about 5 minutes). 4. Add beans, chicken broth, oregano, bay leaves, salt and pepper. Stir to combine and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer on low heat for 2 hours (beans should be very tender). 5. Scoop up 1 cup of black beans from kettle, drained. Remove to a bowl and mash with a fork or potato masher. Add mashed beans to kettle. Cook, uncovered, until soup thickens to taste.

WINE: Germany’s best wine region, the Rheingau (Rine-gow) produces a family of outstanding dry whites, Schloss

Vollrads. This wine comes in four grades, and it’s admirably balanced, rich and full. Serve chilled.

SOPA DE PESCADO (FISH SOUP)

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n the old days this soup was made with several whole fish, heads and tails included. The flesh of the fish was cut into thick slices, highly seasoned and simmered, while the fish heads and tails were used to create a fish stock. Nowadays, fresh fish fillets and water can be used instead of the whole fish. We also add other seafood such as shrimp, clams and even mussels. All of it can be found cleaned and ready for cooking at the local food mart. A simple fish stock can be made by putting some fish heads in a pot with garlic, peppercorns, a bay leaf and a few sprigs of parsley. Bring this mix to a boil and simmer on low heat for an hour then strain the broth. A quicker method is to combine half water and half clam juice. Your local fish market will be glad to open the clams for you and save the juice. Then all you have to do when you get home is strain the juice through a cloth rag to get rid of any sand. Or you can elect to stay with plain water. YIELD: 6 to 8 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed in a mortar 4 cups fish stock or water 1 28-ounce can plum tomatoes 3 sprigs fresh parsley 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon marjoram ½ teaspoon salt 1 bay leaf 2 pounds white-meat fish fillets (such as haddock, cod, weakfish), cut into 1-inch cubes 1 pound clams, chopped (save clam juice) or use 1 8-ounce can chopped clams ¾ pound shrimp, cleaned 1. Heat oil in a large kettle or pot. Add onion, bell pepper and garlic. Sauté for 5 minutes or until vegetables are soft and tender. 2. Add water or fish stock, tomatoes (including liquid), parsley, oregano,

marjoram, salt and bay leaf. Stir to mix. 3. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low heat for 30 minutes. 4. Add fish and cook for 5 minutes. 5. Add clams (plus liquid) and shrimp. Simmer 5 minutes longer. WINE: If you can find it, Folle Blanche (Fall Blawnch). Some good California varietals come from this grape. They are

similar to a Chablis, but with a more lingering, “velvety” finish. Serve chilled. If there’s no Folle Blanche around, then a Verdicchio or Sancerre will do.

SOPA DE LOS LUNES (MORNING AFTER STEW)

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opa de los lunes translates as “Soup for a Monday” or “Monday’s Soup.” There’s a reason for it. According to my parents, on the weekends most people on the island like to socialize. Depending on how much socializing one does, Monday morning is the time of reckoning for most. This particular soup, or stew, serves to restore the body after a weekend blast. The perfect hangover remedy. Note that among the ingredients fideos is included, but my mom states emphatically that a 3-ounce package of chicken flavored Asian noodles could be used instead. A salad and tostones, along with the soup, should exorcise those weekened demons. YIELD: 5 servings

1½ pounds stewing beef with bone, cut into 1-inch pieces ½ medium green bell pepper, seeded 1 medium onion, peeled 1 clove garlic 3 sprigs fresh parsley 1 cup carrots, scraped, washed and cut into ½-inch rounds ½ pound pumpkin, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces ½ pound cabbage, washed and quartered 1 ear fresh corn, shucked and quartered 8 ounces fideos, split in half 2 tablespoons tomato sauce Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. In a large kettle or Dutch oven, combine meat, bell pepper, onion, garlic and parsley. Add 2 quarts (8 cups) water and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer on moderate-low heat for 1 hour. 2. Strain broth into a bowl. Discard vegetables. 3. Add broth to meat in kettle plus carrots, pumpkin, cabbage and corn. Gradually bring to boil, adding fideos and tomato sauce. 4. Stir to mix. Cook, uncovered, over moderate-high heat for ½ hour. Add salt and pepper, reduce heat to low and simmer 5 minutes more.

SALADS

The idea of salads as a main course never entered our vocabulary until we reached the mainland. friend of mine once had this novel idea. She would open up a restaurant that served only salads. But salads from all over, of all types and all kinds—green salads, vegetable salads, European, Middle Eastern, Asian, you name it. She even had a catchy moniker for the place: The Saladria. Alas, her plan never came to pass. I’m sure it has been done. Salad lovers out there are legion. They are in Puerto Rico. Yet, on the island, a salad is considered nothing more than a simple amassing of greens served along with the main course, not as a separate dish in itself. The arrangement is simple: lettuce and tomato slices drizzled with olive oil and vinegar. Sometimes a few avocado slices may be added, but that’s it. Party salads and such are the province of San Juan debutante society. The idea of salads as a main course never entered our vocabulary until we reached the mainland. Today, a Nuyorican family will host a salad repertoire that is vast and various, ranging from hot and cold to pasta and buffet salads.

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Our most appetizing salads were those utilizing the much beloved shellfish. This is exemplified by our famous octopus salad, which is served cold, and conch salad. In the Rivera household, octopus salad is still our favorite since we also serve it in sandwiches. One could say that our favorite salad ingredient (apart from lettuce and tomatoes) is the avocado. We prefer the big smooth ones rather than the small, pitted, pear shaped kind. They have to be ripe, with a firm inner texture. We were lucky that avocados can be found anywhere on the mainland. We were extra lucky in discovering a plethora of other new vegetables to enliven our basic salad mix: cucumber, zucchini, Belgian endive, chicory, arugula, bok choy, napa cabbage, and on and on, which is very good considering what we had before. Sure, in my parents’ home there was the usual chilled salad for summer, and the bianda, which sometimes was served in lieu of greens. But what I remember most involved iceberg lettuce. That was the most frequent partner to tomatoes since it was the best bargain. As time went on, and we discovered other greens, we came to know how lacking iceberg was and is. About the only time I eat iceberg nowadays is when dining out and it’s served unrequested. It’s still bland and tasteless. Give me crinkly leaf lettuce, crispy romaine, delicate Boston Bibb, tangy watercress, sprightly chicory or fresh spinach. Anything but a dull and insipid foliage. But more, give us hearts of palm; four bean salad; salmon salad with garlic and mayonnaise; a rich groaning board chef’s salad; kohlrabi with lots of red onions and fresh dill; lentils cooked and chilled with limas, olive oil and pepper; or a refreshing antipasto salad platter. Who knows, someday some enterprising botanist might discover a way of infusing some flavor into iceberg lettuce. I should mention that some of the salad recipes here may seem to some readers more like vegetable dishes, for example broccoli and artichokes. Native Puerto Ricans and Nuyoricans alike always considered them as salad dishes. At least, that’s the way it’s always been in my family.

ENSALADA DE LECHUGA (ESCAROLE SALAD) YIELD: 4 servings

2 heads escarole lettuce 1 bunch watercress 1 dozen cherry tomatoes, sliced in half DRESSING:

3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 2 cloves garlic, finely minced 1 teaspoon minced chives ¼ teaspoon dried tarragon Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Wash escarole under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels or spin dry. With your hands, break up lettuce into small pieces. 2. Cut off and discard the tough stems of the watercress. Rinse under cold running water and pat or spin dry. 3. Place greens in a bowl and add cherry tomatoes. 4. Combine dressing ingredients in a cruet or tightly covered jar. Shake well and pour over salad. Toss and serve.

ENSALADA DE ESPINACA Y CEBOLLA (SPINACH AND RED ONION SALAD) YIELD: 4 servings

32 unblemished spinach leaves 1 bunch watercress 1 medium red onion, peeled and sliced in rings ¼ cup fresh chopped parsley ¼ cup olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Trim the tough stems from spinach leaves. Rinse under cold running water and spin or pat dry. 2. Cut off and discard the tough stems of the watercress. Rinse and spin or pat dry. 3. Arrange spinach, watercress and onion rings in a bowl. Sprinkle with parsley. 4. Combine oil, vinegar, salt and pepper in a cruet or tightly covered jar. Shake and pour over salad. Toss and serve.

ENSALADA DE TOMATE (TOMATO SALAD) YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

5 medium ripe tomatoes (about 1½ pounds) ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon fresh chopped tarragon (can substitute fresh parsley or basil) 1. Rinse tomatoes under cold running water. Remove the core and cut into thin round slices. 2. Arrange in overlapping circles on a serving platter. 3. Combine oil, vinegar, garlic, salt and pepper in a cruet or tightly covered jar. Shake well and pour over tomatoes. 4. Sprinkle with tarragon and serve.

ENSALDA DE TOMATE Y CEBOLLA (TOMATO AND ONION SALAD) YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

1 red onion 5 medium ripe tomatoes (about 1½ pounds) ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon fresh chopped tarragon (can substitute fresh parsley or basil) 1. Peel a small red onion and cut into thin round slices. 2. Follow recipe above and arrange tomato slices on serving platter. 3. Arrange onion slices over the tomatoes. 4. Combine dressing ingredients given for tomato salad above and pour over tomatoes and onions.

ENSALADE DE TOMATE Y PIMIENTO (HOT TOMATO-GREEN PEPPER SALAD) YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 1 clove garlic, chopped 2 large ripe tomatoes, cut into slender wedges ¼ cup ripe pitted olives, sliced in half ¼ teaspoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon fresh chopped parsley 1. Heat oil in a large skillet and add bell peppers and garlic. Stir-fry over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes. 2. Add tomatoes and sauté 3 minutes. 3. Stir in olives and oregano. Cook over low heat for 2 minutes more. 4. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

ENSALADA DE TOMATE Y CHAYOTE (TOMATO-CHAYOTE SALAD) YIELD: 6 servings

3 medium-sized chayotes (see glossary), peeled and cut in half lengthwise 1 bunch watercress 2 cups cherry tomatoes, sliced in half ¼ cup ripe pitted olives, sliced in half DRESSING:

6 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 cloves garlic, finely minced ¼ teaspoon oregano Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Place chayotes in a pot or saucepan with water to cover by 1 inch. Cook in boiling water until fork tender. 2. Drain, remove seeds and cut into bite-sized chunks. 3. Cut off and discard the tough stems of the watercress. Rinse under cold water and spin or pat dry. 4. In a bowl, combine chayotes, tomatoes, watercress and olives. 5. Combine dressing ingredients in a cruet or tightly covered jar. Shake well and pour over salad. Toss and serve.

ENSALADA DE TOMATE, QUESO Y CEBOLLA (TOMATO, CHEESE AND ONION SALAD) YIELD: 6 servings

5 medium ripe tomatoes (about 1½ pounds), cored and thinly sliced 2 medium red onions, peeled and cut in thin slices 1 pound mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar ¼ teaspoon dried oregano Salt and ground black pepper to taste ¼ cup fresh shredded basil 1. Arrange alternating layers of tomatoes and onions on a large serving platter. Top with cheese slices. 2. Combine oil, vinegar, oregano, salt and pepper in a cruet or tightly covered jar. Shake and pour over salad. 3. Sprinkle with basil. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.

ENSALADA DE PEPINILLO (CUCUMBER SALAD) YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

3 cucumbers, peeled and sliced very thin Salt 1 quart sour cream ¼ cup snipped fresh dill ¼ teaspoon paprika Juice of ½ lemon 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives or 1 teaspoon dried 1. Place cucumbers in a bowl. Sprinkle generously with salt, cover and place in the refrigerator for 2 hours. 2. Remove from fridge and rinse 2 or 3 times under cold running water to remove all traces of salt. 3. In a bowl, combine sour cream, dill, paprika and lemon juice. Add cucumbers and mix well. 4. Sprinkle with chives and serve.

ENSALADA DE CEBOLLA (ONION SALAD) YIELD: 6 servings

1 large red onion, peeled and thinly sliced Lettuce leaves for serving platter 1 medium green bell pepper, seeded and sliced into thin rings 1 large tomato, cored and thinly sliced 1 10½-ounce can garbanzo or cannellini beans, drained 1 3½-ounce can ripe pitted olives ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar ¼ teaspoon dried oregano Salt and ground black pepper to taste ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley 1. Separate onion slices into rings and set aside. 2. Arrange lettuce leaves on a serving platter. Top with alternating layers of bell pepper, tomato slices and beans. 3. Arrange onion rings in concentric circles atop salad and garnish with olives. 4. Combine oil, vinegar, oregano, salt and pepper in a cruet or tightly covered jar. Shake well and pour over salad. 5. Sprinkle with parsley. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.

ENSALADA DE BROCOLI (BROCCOLI SALAD) METHOD 1: YIELD: 4 servings

1 large bunch fresh broccoli 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 3½-ounce can ripe pitted olives, drained and chopped ¼ teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon salt (optional) ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper Parmesan cheese 1. Cut the broccoli into florets, removing the stems. Rinse florets under cold running water and drain. 2. Heat oil in a skillet or fry pan. Add garlic and cook over moderate heat until golden. Add broccoli florets, olives, oregano, salt and pepper. Stir-fry until florets and tender but still crisp (about 3 minutes). 3. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and serve.

METHOD 2: YIELD: 4 servings

1 large bunch fresh broccoli 1 teaspoon salt ½ cup mayonnaise 1 7-ounce jar roasted peppers, drained and chopped 2 cloves garlic, finely minced ¼ teaspoon oregano ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1. Cut the broccoli into florets, removing the stems. Rinse florets under cold running water and drain. 2. Place broccoli in a saucepan, add salt and water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook 3 minutes. 3. Drain and rinse broccoli briefly under cold water to cool. Drain again and chill. 4. Place broccoli in a bowl and mix with remaining ingredients until broccoli is well coated with mayonnaise.

ENSALADA DE HABICHUELAS (BEAN SALAD)

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ere’s another recipe that likes its beans fresh from the can. Don’t knock it until you try it.



YIELD: 8 to 10 servings

1 16-ounce can small white beans or cannellini beans 1 16-ounce can red kidney beans 1 16-ounce can garbanzo beans (chick peas) 1 26-ounce can cut green beans 8 pimento stuffed Spanish olives, sliced in half GARNISH:

1 7-ounce jar roasted peppers, drained and cut into strips Red onion rings DRESSING:

½ cup olive oil ⅓ cup cider vinegar 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced 1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley ½ teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1. Drain canned beans thoroughly. Rinse under cold running water and drain again. 2. In a straight-sided glass bowl, layer white beans, kidney beans, garbanzos and green beans. Top with olives. 3. Combine dressing ingredients in a cruet or tightly covered jar. Shake well and pour over beans. 4. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. 5. Garnish with pepper strips and onion rings but let stand at room temperature 10 minutes before serving.

GAZPACHO DE AGUACATE (AVOCADO GAZPACHO SALAD) YIELD: 6 servings

3 fully ripened avocados, chilled, peeled and halved (pit removed) 1 large ripe tomato, cored and diced 1 medium cucumber, washed and diced ½ medium green bell pepper, seeded and diced 1 small onion, peeled and finely minced 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil or ½ teaspoon dried 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar ¼ teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper Lettuce leaves for salad plates 1. In a bowl, combine tomato, cucumber, bell pepper, onion, garlic, parsley, basil, olive oil, vinegar, oregano, salt and pepper. Mix well and let stand for 15 minutes. 2. Refrigerate until serving time. The avocados can be chilled at the same time. 3. Place each avocado half on a salad plate with a bed of crisp lettuce leaves. Fill halves with vegetable mixture. Serve immediately.

ENSALADA DE AGUACATE Y HONGO (AVOCADO-MUSHROOM SALAD) YIELD: 4 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced Salt and ground black pepper to taste ½ pound fresh mushrooms, washed and thinly sliced 1 fully ripened avocado 1. In a small bowl, blend the oil, vinegar, mustard, garlic, salt and pepper using a wire whisk. 2. Place mushrooms in a mixing bowl. Pour in the dressing and mix well. 3. Cut avocado in half, peel and remove pit. Cut each half into 1-inch cubes. 4. Add avocado cubes to mushrooms and blend gently. Serve immediately.

ENSALADA DE AGUACATE Y JUEYES (AVOCADO-CRABMEAT SALAD) YIELD: 4 servings

1 pound fresh lump crabmeat 1 cup mayonnaise 1 lemon, cut in half 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley ¼ teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 fully ripened avocados 2 medium ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into slender wedges Extra salt for sprinkling Parsley sprigs for garnish 1. Pick over crabmeat to remove any shell or cartilage. 2. In a bowl, combine crabmeat, mayonnaise, juice of ½ lemon, onion, garlic, parsley, oregano, salt and pepper. Mix lightly. 3. Cut each avocado in half, peel and remove the pit. Cut each half into 6 to 8 wedges. Squeeze remaining lemon half over the avocado to prevent discoloration. 4. Place crabmeat in the center of a large serving platter. Arrange avocado and tomato wedges alternately around the crabmeat. 5. Sprinkle wedges lightly with salt. 6. Garnish with parsley sprigs and serve.

ENSALADA DE AGUACATE Y BROCOLI (AVOCADO-BROCCOLI SALAD) YIELD: 4 servings

1 small bunch fresh broccoli 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 clove garlic Salt and pepper to taste 1. Cut a small bunch of broccoli into florets, removing stems. Rinse and drain. 2. Drop broccoli into boiling salted water and cook for 3 minutes. Drain and run briefly under cold water. Drain again. 3. Prepare same dressing as for Avocado-Mushroom Salad (see page 67). Mix this dressing with the broccoli. 4. Cut a peeled and pitted avocado into 1-inch cubes and toss gently with broccoli.

ENSALADA DE ATÚN (TUNA FISH SALAD) YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

2 6½-ounce cans tuna, packed in water and drained ¼ cup finely chopped celery 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons mayonnaise 1 teaspoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons finely chopped onions ¼ teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 2 tablespoons snipped fresh parsley 1. Place tuna in a bowl and flake with a fork. 2. Add celery and olive oil. Mix well. 3. In a separate bowl, blend mayonnaise, lemon juice, onions, oregano and pepper. 4. Combine mayonnaise dressing with tuna and celery and mix well. 5. Chill and sprinkle with parsley when served.

ENSALADA DE HONGO Y ACEITUNAS (MUSHROOMS AND OLIVES) YIELD: 4 servings

1 pound fresh mushrooms, washed and thinly sliced ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar ½ teaspoon lemon juice 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced 4 fresh cilantro leaves, chopped ¼ teaspoon dried thyme ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper ½ cup pimento stuffed Spanish olives 1 bay leaf Lettuce leaves for salad plates 1. Place mushrooms in a bowl. Add olive oil, vinegar, lemon juice, garlic, cilantro, thyme and pepper. Mix well. 2. Add olives and bay leaf. Toss to blend and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. 3. Discard bay leaf and make a bed of crisp lettuce leaves on 4 salad plates. Spoon mushroom-olive mix on top.

ENSALADA DE ATÚN, PIMIENTO Y CEBOLLA (TUNA, PEPPER AND ONION SALAD) YIELD: 4 servings

¼ cup olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and cut into wedges 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed 1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 2 6½-ounce cans tuna, packed in water, drained and flaked ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley ¼ teaspoon dried oregano Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Heat oil in a large skillet or frying pan. Add onion, garlic and bell peppers. Stir-fry over moderate heat until tender (4 to 5 minutes). 2. Add tuna, parsley, oregano, salt and pepper. Sauté 4 minutes more.

ENSALADA DE ATÚN Y HABICHUELAS BLANCA (TUNA AND WHITE BEAN SALAD)

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ere again, I prefer canned white kidney beans to any other kind. I like the Goya and Casera brands or, in a pinch, Progresso.

YIELD: 4 servings

1 19-ounce can white kidney beans or cannellini beans 1 small red onion, peeled and thinly sliced 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 8 cilantro leaves, washed and chopped ½ teaspoon dried oregano ½ cup olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar Juice of ½ lemon Salt and ground black pepper to taste 2 6½-ounce cans tuna, packed in water, drained and flaked 1 7-ounce jar roasted peppers, drained and cut into strips 1. In a bowl, combine beans, onions, garlic, cilantro, oregano, olive oil, vinegar and lemon juice. 2. Season with salt and pepper. Add tuna and toss gently. 3. Garnish with pepper strips and let stand 10 minutes before serving.

ENSALADA DE MACARRONES Y ATÚN (MACARONI-TUNA SALAD) YIELD: 12 servings

½ pound macaroni twists or spirals 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 cups peeled, chopped seedless cucumbers, diced 1 pound tomatoes, seeded and diced 1 medium red onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley ¼ cup chopped fresh basil 1 3½-ounce can pitted black olives, drained and halved 1 6½-ounce can tuna, packed in water, drained and flaked Salt to taste ½ teaspoon ground black pepper ½ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1. Combine 3 quarts (12 cups) water, salt and oil in a large pot. Bring to a boil and cook macaroni according to package directions. Do not overcook. 2. Drain pasta and place in a serving bowl. Add cucumbers, tomatoes, onion, garlic, parsley, basil, olives, tuna, salt to taste, pepper, olive oil and vinegar. Toss to blend and serve.

ENSALADA DE MACARRONES (MACARONI SALAD) YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

½ pound elbow macaroni 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup mayonnaise 1 small green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 1 cup cherry tomatoes, sliced in half ¼ teaspoon dried oregano 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar Salt to taste ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1. Combine 3 quarts (12 cups) water, salt and oil in a large pot. Bring to a boil and cook macaroni according to package directions. Do not overcook. 2. Drain pasta and place in a mixing bowl. Add mayonnaise, bell pepper, onion, garlic, cherry tomatoes, oregano, vinegar, salt to taste and pepper. Toss to blend. 3. Cover and chill.

ENSALADA DE REPOLLO (COLE SLAW) YIELD: 4 servings

3 cups shredded cabbage 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and diced 2 carrots, trimmed, scraped and diced fine ¾ cup mayonnaise 2 teaspoons white vinegar ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon sugar ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1. In a bowl, mix cabbage, bell pepper and carrots. 2. In separate bowl, combine mayonnaise, vinegar, salt, sugar and ground pepper. Add to cabbage and mix. 3. Chill and serve.

ENSALADA DE MAESTRO (CHEF’S SALAD) YIELD: 8 servings DRESSING:

½ cup olive oil ¼ cup red wine vinegar 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced ½ teaspoon sugar ½ teaspoon crushed marjoram ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper SALAD:

1 pound red waxy potatoes 1 pound fresh asparagus ½ pound fresh mushrooms Crisp lettuce leaves ½ pound thinly sliced cooked ham ½ pound slivered cheddar or Swiss cheese ¼ cup sliced roasted peppers 3 hard-cooked eggs, quartered 1. Combine oil, vinegar, garlic, sugar, marjoram, salt and pepper in a cruet or tightly covered jar. Shake well and let stand until serving time. 2. Rinse potatoes under cold running water. Also, snap off woody ends from asparagus and rinse tips. 3. Cook potatoes and asparagus in separate saucepans in boiling water until just tender. 4. Drain potatoes and rinse in cold water. Peel and cut into quarters. 5. Drain asparagus and cut into 2-inch lengths. 6. Rinse mushrooms, pat dry and slice. 7. Line a large salad bowl with crisp lettuce leaves 8. Layer the bowl with ham, mushrooms and cheese. Top with potatoes and

asparagus. Garnish with roasted peppers and hard-cooked eggs. 9. Pour dressing over salad and serve.

ENSALADA DE PAPAS (POTATO SALAD) YIELD: 8 servings

2½ pounds Maine or Idaho potatoes 1 tablespoon salt 1 cup mayonnaise 1 small green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped ⅓ cup finely chopped fresh parsley 3 hard-cooked eggs, chopped ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1. Rinse potatoes and place them in a large saucepan with water to cover. Add 1 tablespoon salt, bring to a boil and simmer until tender (20 minutes or more, depending on size). Do not overcook; potatoes should not be mushy. 2. Drain potatoes, rinse in cool water and peel. Cut into approximately ¼-inch slices. 3. In a large glass bowl, combine mayonnaise, bell pepper, onion, parsley, eggs, salt and pepper. 4. Add potatoes and mix well. 5. Chill thoroughly and serve.

ENSALADA DE PAPAS CON CEBOLLA (POTATO SALAD WITH ONION) YIELD: 6 to 8 servings

2 pounds small, red waxy potatoes 1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced into rings 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley ½ teaspoon dried tarragon 5 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar Salt and ground black pepper to taste Crisp lettuce leaves to garnish 1 medium tomato, cored and cut into thin wedges 1. Rinse potatoes and place in a large saucepan with water to cover. Add 1 tablespoon salt, bring to a boil and simmer until tender (about 20 minutes, depending on size). Do not overcook; potatoes should not be mushy. 2. Drain potatoes, rinse in cool water and peel. Cut into ¼-inch slices and put in a large mixing bowl. 3. Add onion rings, garlic, parsley, tarragon, oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. Toss well. 4. Garnish with lettuce leaves and tomato wedges.

ENSALADA DE PAPAS AL HORNO (ROASTED POTATO SALAD) YIELD: 6 to 8 servings

2½ pounds small, red waxy potatoes 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced ½ teaspoon dried oregano 5 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon or ½ teaspoon dried. 1. Preheat oven to 425°F. 2. Rinse the potatoes, scrub them well, and cut into quarters. 3. Sprinkle the garlic, oregano, olive oil and vinegar over the potatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Toss to blend. 4. Place potatoes in a single layer in a greased baking dish. 5. Bake 35 minutes, occasionally turning the potatoes so that they cook evenly. 6. At this point you can either remove the potatoes to a serving bowl or leave in baking dish. Sprinkle with chives and tarragon and serve at room temperature.

ENSALADA DE PULPO (OCTOPUS SALAD)

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his recipe can be done with one large octopus, say about five pounds. We prefer to make it with three small octopuses. These baby mollusks offer quicker preparation. With a large one there is the danger of overcooking which will render the meat like rubber. YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

3 baby octopuses, about 2 pounds each 1 teaspoon salt Juice of ½ lemon 3 cloves garlic, peeled ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon dried oregano 2 teaspoons white vinegar ¾ cup olive oil 1 teaspoon ground black pepper ½ teaspoon dried sage 1 medium onion, peeled and sliced into thin rings 6 pimento-stuffed Spanish olives 1 medium tomato, cut into thin wedges 1. Rinse octopus under cold running water and drain thoroughly. 2. Cut off the mouth, a pouch located underneath the body that looks like an eye, and discard. 3. Place octopus in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven with water to cover. Add salt and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer, covered, 25 to 30 minutes. The meat should be pink and slightly tender. 4. Remove from heat and let octopus cool in the pot for 10 minutes. Drain. 5. Slice off the top of each octopus’s head and flush out the head cavity. 6. Cut tentacles from body and scrape outer skin. 7. Cut tentacles and head into bite-sized pieces. 8. Place pieces in a large bowl. Squeeze lemon half over octopus. 9. In a mortar, crush garlic, ½ teaspoon salt and oregano. Add vinegar and mix.

10. Rub seasoning on octopus pieces. 11. Combine olive oil, pepper and sage. Pour over octopus meat. 12. Add onion and olives. Toss to blend. 13. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 1 hour before serving. 14. Garnish with tomatoes and serve.

ENSALADA DE CARRUCHO (CONCH SALAD) YIELD: 4 servings

1 pound fresh conch meat, cleaned (see page 118) or four 6½ ounce cans scungilli, drained and rinsed ¼ cup water Juice of ½ lemon 6 whole black peppercorns 3 cloves garlic, peeled ½ teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon salt ½ cup olive oil 1 tablespoon white vinegar 3 tablespoons mayonnaise 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley Crisp lettuce leaves 1. If using fresh conch, place meat in a bowl with water and lemon juice and let stand 10 minutes. 2. Drain and place in a heavy pot or kettle with water to cover. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer, covered, until tender (45 to 60 minutes). 3. Drain and, when cool enough to handle, cut into small bite-sized pieces. Place in a mixing bowl. 4. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt. Add olive oil, vinegar and mix. 5. Add seasoning to conch meat and blend well. Stir in mayonnaise. 6. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving. 7. Sprinkle with parsley and serve on crisp lettuce leaves.

FISH

About the only thing we won’t cook is whale steak in blubber. am a lover of seafood. Being Nuyorican, it comes with the territory. Their descendants were surrounded by the bounty of the sea. They still are. To this day, selecting from the daily catch in the town of Ponce is to suffer from an embarrassment of riches. It has been that way for generations. When we came to the mainland, our preference for fish cookery traveled with us. We are lucky that we migrated to an area of the U.S. where fish and shellfish are abundant. Coming to new shores only enhanced our yen for anything with scales and fins. Here we could partake of fresh water trout, mahi-mahi, crayfish, sushi, and a host of other exotica. Yet we never lost sight of our treasures: red snapper fricassee, escabeche, mackerel smothered with onions, codfish with guanimes, codfish with eggs, codfish with potatoes, codfish with anything and everything.

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On the mainland we’ve come to appreciate the inherent diversity of seafood cuisine. And we’ve borrowed from our neighbors. My mother could make a memorable bouillabaisse. Uncle Phillip was expert at preparing Asian style steamed fish. Boiled fish with couscous, from Barbados, became another family favorite. We were, and are, constantly experimenting, revising and discovering new delights. About the only thing we won’t cook is whale steak in blubber. In our tribe we’ve always been suspicious of people who don’t like seafood. It’s as if there were something not quite right with such people, a character flaw for which we must show understanding and compassion since they are missing out on one of life’s great treats. Luckily, the popular tide has changed and today seafood is king of the entrees.

PISCADO AL HORNO (OVEN BAKED FISH)

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implicity itself. A whole, pan-roasted fish. We use red snapper, but any white fleshed fish such as sea bass, striped bass, pike, fluke, etc. can be used. The fish is seasoned beforehand and baked in olive oil. Scrumptious. YIELD: 4 servings

1 3-pound red snapper, cleaned and scaled but with head and tail still attached 6 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano ¼ cup olive oil ½ cup black olives, pitted and sliced in half ½ cup pimento stuffed Spanish olives, sliced in half ¼ cup capers, drained 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Wash fish, inside and out, under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 3. Place fish in a roasting pan or baking dish large enough to hold it comfortably. 4. Crush peppercorns, garlic and oregano in a mortar. 5. With a sharp knife, make 3 to 4 vertical slits on both sides of fish. Rub seasoning thoroughly into the skin. 6. Pour olive oil over the fish. 7. Distribute the olives and capers evenly over the fish. 8. Bake, uncovered, for approximately 30 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. 9. Remove from the oven and serve on warmed serving dish garnished with olives and capers. WINE: One of Italy’s great white wines, Verdicchio (Vair-dee-key-o). Soft and dry with a crisp aftertaste. Serve chilled.

PESCADO CON TOMATE Y CILANTRO (FISH STEAKS WITH TOMATO AND CILANTRO)

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his dish came along, like many others, through experimentation and that process of experimentation doesn’t have to stop here. Fresh parsley can be substituted for the cilantro, if you want a less defined taste. Some folks prefer fresh lemon juice in place of the vinegar. Again, let your palate be your guide. Traditionally, we serve fish steaks with bianda (root plants) or guineos (boiled green bananas). YIELD: 4 servings

4 halibut or cod steaks, about 6 ounces each 6 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled 2 medium tomatoes, cored, seeded and chopped 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar 2 teaspoons olive oil 1. Preheat oven to 425°F. 2. Wash fish steaks under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 3. In a mortar, crush peppercorns and garlic. 4. In a small bowl, combine peppercorns and garlic with tomatoes, cilantro, vinegar and olive oil. 5. Arrange fish steaks in a baking dish large enough to hold the fish comfortably. Spoon tomato-cilantro mixture over fish. 6. Bake for 10 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. WINE: Gumpoldskirchner. Another tongue twister, this time from Austria. It is fresh and delicate and should be served

chilled.

CHILLO EN FRICASÉ (RED SNAPPER FRICASSEE)

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n some quarters this might he called stewed snapper. The fish is seasoned, lightly browned and then simmered in a sauce. Any other comparable fish may be used but, for some reason, it tends to come out best with red snapper, though I’ve seen it done with mero (yellow snapper) and kingfish. Rice and a tossed salad gives it the right touch. YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

2 whole red snappers (1½ to 2 pounds each), cleaned and scaled, with head and tail still attached 6 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon vinegar ½ cup vegetable or corn oil 1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced 2 bay leaves 10 pimento stuffed Spanish olives 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce ½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1 chicken bouillon cube 1. Rinse fish, inside and out, under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic and oregano. Blend in olive oil and vinegar. 3. With a sharp knife, make 3 to 4 vertical slits on both sides of fish. Rub seasoning into the skin. 4. In a large frying pan, heat vegetable oil and lightly brown fish over moderate heat on both sides (about 3 minutes per side). Add onion, bay leaves, olives, tomato sauce, Worcestershire and bouillon cube. Cook over high heat for 5 minutes. 5. Add ½ cup water and bring to a boil. Lower heat, cover and simmer for about 10 minutes or until fish flakes easily with a fork.

WINE: Gamay, a red grape variety that produces Beaujolais in France and a fine red in California (where it’s also known

as Gamay du Beaujolais).

PESCADO CON VEGETALES (FISH WITH VEGETABLES)

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his is one of those potluck dinners where you can throw in whatever’s available in the fridge. It’s a basic stir-fry of seasoned fish bites cooked with vegetables. It can be done in a wok. You can even add soy sauce or sesame oil to give it an Asian flavor— though, honestly, we never tried it that way. For the veggies you can also try baby corn, green beans, snow peas and even mushrooms. It’s a one pot meal and therein lies its simplicity. (Note that in Nuyorican cooking the bay leaf usually goes in near the end, not at the beginning as in European stews.) YIELD: 4 servings

2 pounds cod steaks or haddock, cut into bite-sized pieces ½ cup flour Salt and ground black pepper to taste ¼ cup olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled, cut in half and then sliced 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 2 medium ripe tomatoes, cut into bite-size chunks 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 10 pimento stuffed Spanish olives 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves or fresh parsley 1. Rinse fish under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Season the flour with salt and pepper; then dredge fish pieces in flour. 3. Heat olive oil in a heavy saucepan or skillet. Add fish pieces and lightly brown over moderate heat. 4. Add onion, bell peppers, tomatoes and garlic. Stir to combine and cook for about 3 minutes. 5. Add olives, bay leaf, vinegar and cilantro. 6. Cover and continue cooking for 5 minutes. 7. Remove bay leaf and serve.

WINE: Givry (Zhe-vree). Some would consider this an odd choice for fish. It’s among the least expensive of the red

burgundies; but it is also fairly light-bodied and has a somewhat flowery bouquet. With seafood, I serve it lightly chilled.

FILETE DE PESCADO AL HORNO (BAKED FISH FILLETS)

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he simplest way to prepare fish fillets is broiling in a basic lemon-butter sauce. This is a quickie for when we want a fish fillet sandwich. Two variations are given below. In the first entrée the fish is topped with a white sauce (with a little dark rum to add zing— optional, of course). The second dish features the fillets atop onions and pimentos. This is layered with tomatoes which are broiled a few minutes before serving. 1ST VARIATION: YIELD: 4 servings

4 boneless, skinless fish fillets, such as flounder, sole, turbot or cod (about 1¼ pounds) 2½ tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour ¾ cup and 3 tablespoons milk 1 tablespoon dark Puerto Rican rum (optional) Half of a small onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 1 bay leaf ¼ teaspoon white pepper Salt to taste 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Rinse fillets and pat dry with paper towels. 3. In a small saucepan, combine 2 tablespoons butter and the flour over moderate heat and boil for 1 minute. 4. Slowly pour in the milk, stirring constantly until thickened. Add rum at this stage, if using. 5. Lower heat and add onion, garlic, bay leaf, pepper and salt. Stir together for about 1 minute. 6. Place fish fillets in a greased baking pan. Pour sauce over fillets, dot top with remaining butter. 7. Bake, uncovered, for 15 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork.

2ND VARIATION: YIELD: 4 servings

4 boneless fish fillets, such as haddock, cod or tilefish (about ¼ pound each) 2 medium onions, peeled and thinly sliced 1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves or fresh parsley Salt and ground black pepper to taste ½ cup dry white wine 1 tablespoon butter or margarine 2 medium ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Rinse fillets and pat dry with paper towels. 3. Arrange onions and green pepper strips in a greased baking dish large enough to hold the fish fillets comfortably. 4. Sprinkle with chopped cilantro or parsley. 5. Arrange fish fillets on top of vegetables. Season with salt and pepper. 6. Drizzle wine over all. Dot with butter and cover fillets with tomato slices. 7. Bake, uncovered, for 20 minutes. 8. Remove fish fillets from oven and place under broiler for approximately 3 minutes or until tomato slices are slightly seared. WINE: The Semillon (Say-mee-yawhn) grape produces mainly sweet wines for Sauternes. It also makes fine dry whites

from Bordeaux. Try the dry Semillon with either entree, and serve chilled.

PEZ DE ESPADA CON SALSA DE LIMÓN (SWORDFISH STEAKS IN LEMON SAUCE)

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wordfish is readily available on the island. There’s a lot of it and it’s cheap. And it’s cooked each and every way. Here we broil it in a simple lemon sauce. This entrée can also be accomplished on a barbecue grill for any outdoor event. YIELD: 4 servings

4 swordfish steaks, 6 to 8 ounces each (can substitute halibut or any other white fish steak) 6 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon dried basil ½ teaspoon salt ⅓ cup lemon juice 3 tablespoons olive oil 1. Wash fish steaks and pat dry with paper towels. 2. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano, basil and salt. Add lemon juice and olive oil. 3. Place fish in a shallow dish. Add marinade; turn to coat both sides of fish. 4. Cover and set aside for 1 hour, turning once. 5. Place fish on a greased broiling pan and broil at a distance of about 4 inches from heat source. Broil 4 to 5 minutes per side, brushing frequently with marinade. WINE: Rinsol (from Federico Paternina) has a dry, crisp taste. As with most Rioja whites, it is actually pale yellow in

color. Serve chilled.

FILETE DE PESCADO EMPANADO (BREADED FISH FILLETS)

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very cook worth his salt has a recipe for breaded fish steaks. The two preferred methods are baking and broiling—with broiling being by far the most common. The problem I’ve always found with broiling, especially fish fillets, is the distance from the heat source. If the food is too close to the heat, the bread crumbs will not brown, they’ll burn. But the time factor must also be considered. In our family there are two viewpoints. One group states that the fillets should be 4 inches from the heat source and the cooking time should be limited to maybe 6 or 7 minutes. I prefer broiling the food a little farther from the heat source and increasing the cooking time to say, 10 minutes. Of course no two ovens are the same. Some have greater heat intensity than others. I used to think this was bull, until I tried to cook a plain fish fillet on a friend’s state of the art kitchen broiler. Same ingredients, same time element, same temperature. The result was something that looked like beef jerky. So use your common sense, hope for the best, and get to know your oven. YIELD: 4 servings

4 boneless, skinless fish fillets, such as striped bass, blackfish, fluke, etc. (about ½ pound each) 6 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup chicken bouillon 1 tablespoon butter or margarine 1 teaspoon dried rosemary leaves 1 cup fresh bread crumbs 1 lemon, cut into wedges 1. Preheat broiler to high. 2. Rinse fish fillets under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 3. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt. 4. Rub fish fillets thoroughly with the seasoning. 5. In a bowl, combine bouillon and butter. 6. On a plate, combine rosemary leaves and bread crumbs.

7. Dip fish fillets in bouillon, then roll carefully in bread crumbs. 8. Place fish fillets on a greased baking dish large enough to hold the fillets in one layer. 9. Broil about 6 inches from source of heat for 10 minutes. Turn once during broiling. Serve with lemon wedges. WINE: Nierstein (Neer-shtein), a German town in the Rheinhessen, probably makes the best white wines in that country.

They have a big bouquet and are full flavored. Although you may find lesser, more moderately priced Niersteiners, I’d say go for the best vineyards: Auflangen, Hipping or Spiegelberg.

PEZ A LA BILBAINA (FISH BILBAINA STYLE)

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nother of Uncle Phillip’s contributions. Its origin is Bilbao, Spain, in the Basque country. Whether they prepare it this way in Bilbao, that I do not know. But Uncle Phillip said they do. Like most of his generation, Uncle Phillip had this thing about Spain and things Spanish. To a lot of oldsters reared on the island, Spain is still regarded as the “mother country.” In fact, La Borinqueña, the unofficial island anthem, has a phrase in it about the “Spanish motherland.” To those of us Nuyoricans who have been exposed to these sentiments, it’s all rather quaint. I have never been to Bilbao. Yet I’m sure I’d feel more at home in Lancaster, Pennsylvania than in Bilbao any day. But then I doubt one could find a genuine recipe for Bilbaina style fish in Lancaster. YIELD: 4 servings

1 2⅓ to 3 pound striped bass, cleaned and scaled but with head and tail still attached (can substitute any other firm fleshed fish) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced 2 medium ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Preheat oven to 370°F. 2. Wash fish, inside and out, and pat dry with paper towels. 3. With a sharp knife, make 3 to 4 vertical slits on both sides of fish. 4. Heat olive oil in a frying pan or skillet and lightly brown fish over moderate heat on both sides. 5. Remove fish to a baking dish large enough to hold it comfortably. Top fish with onions. Then layer with tomatoes, and finally with the green pepper strips. 6. Pour tomato sauce over the fish, and sprinkle with minced garlic. Season with salt and pepper. 7. Bake, uncovered, for about 30 minutes or until fish flakes easily with a fork. WINE: There are some worthy Rioja whites that could go with this dish. But since I have a penchant for reds, I would opt

for a light and soft red such as a Cune Claret, or a fresh and young Rivarey from Bodegas Marqués de Cáceres. Serve lightly chilled.

PESCADO ENCEBOYAPO (FISH COOKED WITH ONIONS)

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his is one of my mother’s treats. When I came back from my tour of duty in Vietnam, she would prepare this dish for me almost every other day. It was one of the things I had missed in the jungles of Southeast Asia—good seafood steaks, swordfish, carp, croaker, you name it. My mom prepared this recipe either of two ways: she got a large whole fish (3 pounds or more) and cuts it in half or quarters: or she selected four or more small sized mackerel, whiting, croaker, etc. and cooked them in a sauce with onions. I prefer this entrée with potatoes. It also goes well with that old standby, rice, or boiled green bananas. YIELD: 4 servings

4 fresh mackerel or whiting (about ½ pound each), cleaned and scaled but with head and tail still attached 8 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup flour 1 cup vegetable or corn oil 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 medium onions, peeled and thinly sliced 1 teaspoon sage 1 teaspoon vinegar 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 1. Rinse fish, inside and out, under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt. 3. Rub each fish, inside and out, with the seasoning. Set aside and let stand in a covered pan or bowl for 10 to 15 minutes. 4. Dredge fish pieces in flour, shaking off excess. 5. Heat vegetable oil in a frying pan or skillet. Add fish and brown lightly on both sides. This can be done singly or in pairs. Drain on absorbent paper towels. 6. Heat olive oil in another heavy saucepan or skillet and add the fish. Arrange

onion slices over the fish. Sprinkle with sage, and add the vinegar. Pour tomato sauce evenly over fish and onions. 7. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer on low heat for about 30 minutes. WINE: Grey Riesling is somewhat of a misnomer. It isn’t actually a Riesling. In body and flavor it’s somewhere between

a white Burgundy and a Rhine wine. California varietals made from this grape are not bad, especially when served chilled.

SALMÓN EMPANADO (BREADED SALMON STEAK)

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hy is it that when most of us think of salmon, we have in mind the stuff that comes in a can? I have younger cousins who have never experienced fresh salmon. It’s as if all those Big Macs have addled their brains. A pity, too. Fresh salmon— broiled, baked, sautéed—is one of life’s culinary joys. Here is one of the easiest ways to prepare salmon. If you want to cut corners even more, you can skip the bread crumbs and just broil the salmon steak as is with the condiments. But I like the crunchy edge the bread crumbs bring. It should be noted that I broil my salmon fairly close to the heat source, about 2 to 3 inches. Thus the initial broiling time is cut down to no more than 7 to 8 minutes. YIELD: 4 servings

4 salmon steaks, about ½-inch thick 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons butter or margarine Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 2 tablespoons white Puerto Rican rum ½ cup fresh bread crumbs 1. Preheat broiler to high. 2. Rinse salmon steaks and pat dry with paper towels. 3. Brush both sides of steaks with olive oil. Place in a lightly greased broiler pan. 4. In a small bowl, combine butter, salt, pepper, garlic, rum and bread crumbs. 5. Pat half of bread crumb mixture on top of salmon. 6. Broil about 2 to 3 inches from heat source for 3 minutes. 7. Carefully turn over salmon with a spatula. Pat on remaining crumb mixture. Broil 5 minutes longer. WINE: Switzerland produces a dry white that comes from the area around Lake Neuchâtel, and is called (you guessed it)

Neuchâtel (Nuh-sha-tel). This wine is crisp, light and slightly sparkling. Serve lightly chilled.

PESCADO EN ESCABECHE (PICKLED FISH)

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y father’s favorite seafood snack. When my mother prepared this beauty she used kingfish steaks. Her reason was that this particular fish has one center bone, so one doesn’t need worry about other fish bones sticking in your throat. For those who don’t like or can’t find kingfish, swordfish may be substituted. This dish is unique in that it tastes best the day after. The longer it marinates in a jar or bowl, the more flavorful it becomes. When my mom prepared it back in the old neighborhood, she made enough so that we had pickled fish sandwiches to last the entire week. In our family we make escabeche either of two ways. In one method we first brown the fish steaks lightly. Then we cook the onions and remaining condiments in another skillet. Finally, we add the precooked fish to this sauce and simmer the whole thing over low heat for half an hour or so. The more traditional way of making escabeche is to fry the fish steaks until they’re done. Then, in the same or a different frying pan, we cook the onion sauce. In the final step, we alternate layers of steak and sauce in a jar, and marinate until ready to eat. Both methods work equally well. In the recipe given we’ve used the second method, which is the most common for preparing escabeche Nuyorican style. YIELD: 8 servings

8 kingfish steaks, 6 to 8 ounces each (can substitute swordfish steaks, if desired) 12 whole black peppercorns 3 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon dried basil ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup olive oil 3 tablespoons vinegar 1 cup vegetable or corn oil 3 medium onions, peeled and thinly sliced 1 bay leaf 1. Rinse fish steaks and pat dry with paper towels. 2. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, 2 cloves garlic, oregano, basil and salt. 3. Rub fish steaks thoroughly with seasoning, and place in a bowl.

4. Combine ½ cup of the olive oil with 1 tablespoon of the vinegar, and pour over fish steaks. Cover bowl and place in refrigerator for 1 hour. 5. In a heavy saucepan or skillet, heat vegetable oil and lightly brown fish steaks over moderate heat on both sides. Reduce heat to low and cook the fish until done (about 15 minutes or so). Depending on how large the skillet, this may be done in batches. Drain on absorbent paper towels. 6. In a frying pan, heat the rest of the olive oil and add remaining garlic clove (crushed). Remove garlic when it is brown. Add onions, bay leaf and remaining vinegar. Cook on low heat until tender. 7. In a deep glass jar or dish, arrange alternate layers of onions and fish steaks. Make sure you begin and end with the onion sauce. 8. Cover and set aside in the refrigerator for 24 hours or more. WINE:

In recent years, Australian wines have gained a reputation for excellence. One fine example is SémillonChardonnay. This is a blend of two classic grapes that is very popular down under. The Sémillon contributes a full and soft flavor which is complemented by the buttery richness and distinctive aroma of the Chardonnay. The Rosemount and Seaview wineries (both in Southeast Australia) provide good value when searching for this wine.

PESCADO FRITO (DEEP FRIED FISH)

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his is one of the easiest ways to cook small fish like porgies and mackerel. Dipped in milk, dredged in seasoned flour and deep fried. Nothing could be simpler. If you want to, serve it topped with hazelnut butter (butter that is quickly and lightly browned over high heat but not burned, and then poured over the fish). A good accompaniment is boiled potatoes or bianda. YIELD: 6 servings

6 fresh mackerel or porgies (about ½ pound each), cleaned and scaled but with head and tail still attached 1 cup milk 1 cup flour Salt and ground black pepper to taste 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced Vegetable or corn oil for deep frying Juice of 1 whole lemon, plus optional lemon wedges for garnish 1 tablespoon parsley 1. Rinse fish, inside and out and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Have milk ready in one bowl. In a separate bowl, season flour with salt, pepper and garlic. Dip fish in milk, then dredge in flour, shaking off any excess. 3. In a frying pan or skillet, add vegetable oil to a depth of ¼ inch. Heat on moderate flame until very hot. 4. Cook the fish on both sides until golden brown (about 3 to 4 minutes). 5. Arrange on a serving platter and sprinkle with lemon juice and parsley. Garnish with lemon wedges, if desired. WINE: From time to time something comes out of California that is really good. So it is with Caymus Vineyards which

created the wine with the catchy name of Conundrum. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Sémillon and Muscadet, which yields a product that is dry and medium-bodied. Serve chilled.

PESCADO HERBIDO (POACHED WHOLE FISH)

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his is the same as the recipe that is used for poaching chicken, except with fish. You can use whole fish, fish fillets or fish steaks. The dish can be served with hazelnut butter or a simple butter sauce (one is provided below). The poaching time will depend on the size and variety of the fish. Halibut, cod or other fish steaks should be simmered 3 to 4 minutes. Fish fillets even less. BUTTER SAUCE: YIELD: ½ cup

8 tablespoons butter or margarine Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed 1. Melt butter in a saucepan. 2. Add garlic, salt and pepper. 3. Cook over low heat until bubbling (about 2 minutes). Do not burn. 4. Remove garlic and pour over fish.

FISH: YIELD: 4 servings

1 whole fish, 2½ to 3 pounds, cleaned, scaled, with head and tail still attached 1 medium onion, peeled and sliced in half 1 bay leaf 10 whole black peppercorns 6 sprigs cilantro leaves 6 sprigs fresh dill ½ teaspoon dried thyme ½ teaspoon dried rosemary Salt to taste 1. Wash fish, inside and out, and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Place fish in a heavy saucepan or fish cooker. Add all the remaining ingredients and water to barely cover fish. 3. Bring to a boil on medium heat. 4. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for about 5 minutes. 5. Carefully remove fish using a pancake turner or large spatula. Serve with butter sauce. WINE: Bonny Doon Vineyards of California makes a fine dry rose that is a blend of the Grenache grape and Mourvédre,

and which is quite refreshing. Serve chilled.

PESCADO RELLENO CON HONGO (FISH WITH MUSHROOM STUFFING)

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fish can be stuffed with just about anything edible. We choose mushrooms. Naturally, we prefer them fresh, but the canned variety can be used as well. Just make sure they’re drained. YIELD: 4 servings

1 3-pound whitefish (or other fish about the same size) 8 whole black peppercorns 1 clove garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon vinegar 1 tablespoon butter or margarine 1 pound fresh mushrooms, washed and sliced ¼ cup chopped onion ½ medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped ¼ teaspoon dried thyme 1. Preheat oven to 370°F. 2. Rinse fish, inside and out, under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 3. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt. Combine with olive oil and vinegar. 4. With a sharp knife, make 3 to 4 vertical slits on one side of the fish. 5. Rub fish thoroughly, inside and out, with seasoning. 6. Melt butter or margarine in a saucepan. Add mushrooms, onion, green bell pepper and thyme. Stir-fry over medium heat for about 5 minutes or until onion is tender. 7. Place fish in a lightly greased baking dish (with vertical slits facing up). Lightly pack the vegetables into the cavity of the fish. Close the cavity by securing with wooden toothpicks. 8. Bake, uncovered, for 30 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a

fork. 9. Using a large spatula or pancake turner, carefully remove the fish to a serving platter. Discard toothpicks before serving. WINE: Ockfener (Awk-fen-er) is the premier white to come out of the Saar region in Germany. Bockstein is probably the

best vineyard producing this wine, which should be served chilled.

PESCADO RELLENO CON OSTIONES (OYSTER STUFFED FISH)

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here is an old joke that it was a brave individual who first ate an oyster. Could be. Oysters seem to elicit undying loyalty or total revulsion. There is seldom any middle ground. I, myself, shy away from raw oysters. I enjoy them cooked. They provide a superb stuffing whether for fish, meat or fowl. YIELD: 4 servings

1 3-pound sea bass, cleaned and scaled but with head and tail still attached (can substitute any firm fleshed fish such as mackerel, blue fish, trout, croaker, etc.) 1 cup bread crumbs 1 pint raw oysters, drained and coarsely chopped Salt and ground black pepper to taste ½ teaspoon dried oregano 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced ¼ teaspoon tarragon ¼ cup melted butter 1 tablespoon vinegar 4 bacon slices 1. Preheat oven to 370°F. 2. Rinse fish, inside and out, and pat dry with paper towels. 3. In a small bowl, combine bread crumbs, oysters, salt, pepper, oregano, garlic, tarragon, butter and vinegar. 4. With a sharp knife, make 3 to 4 vertical slits on one side of fish. Pack the stuffing lightly inside the fish cavity. Close the cavity by securing with wooden toothpicks. 5. Place fish on a baking dish large enough to hold it comfortably (with vertical slits facing up). 6. Arrange bacon slices on top of fish. 7. Bake, basting frequently, for about 30 minutes or until fish flakes easily when tested with a fork. 8. Discard toothpicks before serving. WINE: The Loire Valley in France gives us Muscadet (Moose-kah-day); light, bone-dry with good acidity. Serve chilled.

PESCADO FRITO CON LIMÓN (FRIED FISH WITH LEMON)

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his recipe is near to deep-fried fish except here there is no dipping in flour. The fish is cooked in hot olive oil and then gently simmered with the addition of lemon juice. You can elect to fry one large fish or four small ones. If using a whole fish, any firm fleshed variety can be used (such as red snapper, striped bass, blue fish, mackerel, etc.). YIELD: 4 servings

1 whole fish, 2½ to 3 pounds, cleaned and scaled but with head and tail still attached 8 whole black peppercorns 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt 5 tablespoons olive oil 3 cloves garlic, peeled Juice of 1 whole lemon 1. Rinse fish, inside and out, and pat dry with paper towels. 2. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, oregano and salt. 3. With a sharp knife make 3 to 4 vertical slits on both sides of fish. 4. Rub fish thoroughly, inside and out, with seasoning. 5. In a large frying pan or skillet, heat olive oil until very hot (3 to 4 minutes). 6. Add garlic and sauté until brown. 7. Remove garlic and add fish. Cook over medium heat until brown on both sides. 8. Add lemon juice, cover, and continue cooking on low heat for about 10 minutes or until fish flakes easily with a fork. WINE: Light, fruity Bardolino served lightly chilled.

CODFISH

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ne could easily compile a book devoted entirely to salted codfish recipes. To us, dried salt cod is like rice. We can’t do without either. We boil salt cod, we fry it, bake it and broil it. We mix it with other foods or serve it by itself steeped in garlic and olive oil. One of the pleasant surprises we discovered upon reaching Gotham was that salted codfish could be found almost everywhere, from Little Italy to Chinatown, wherever there was an ethnic enclave. Dried salt cod is a common staple throughout the Mediterranean basin; it is well represented in Spanish, Portuguese, Greek, and French cuisines; but it’s also integral to the native cooking of places as far flung as India and Canada. The thing to remember about salt cod is just that—the sodium content, which is astronomically high. It goes back to those bygone days when packing in salt was the best preservative. As a result, salt cod has to be prepared before cooking. The common method is soaking the cod in cold water, and changing the water several times. Soaking time depends on the saltiness and hardness of the fish. For example, Canadian salt cod needs less soaking since it is less heavily salted. For regular salt cod the usual soaking time is from 6 to 8 hours. The normal procedure is to leave it overnight, then drain and rinse under cold running water. The cod is then placed in a pot of boiling water to cover and simmered gently for 15 minutes or so. It is drained again and, when cool, any skin and bones are peeled away. Lastly, the fish is flaked so that it’s ready to cook. The Riveras, being innovative, have perfected an easier method to desalt the cod. We simply place the cod in a pot or saucepan with water to cover and let it stand 15 to 20 minutes. Then we drain the cod well and remove the skin and bones. Finally, the salt cod is placed in a skillet and cooked over low heat for 5 to 6 minutes. This last step ensures that the salt content is removed. Whatever method is used, there are those who think this is a hell of a bother just to eat cod. Perhaps. But not many good things are as inexpensive, or as versatile. It can acquire any of a number of flavors during cooking, depending on the condiments used. It will complement almost any vegetable or grain. We serve it with potatoes, either together in a casserole or with potatoes on the side. One item that complements salt cod very well is guanimes (corn meal fashioned into sausage shapes). Or serve it with bianda, or eggplant, or tostones (plantains). However it’s prepared, salt cod is extraordinary.

BACALAO GUISADO (STEWED CODFISH) YIELD: 4 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed 1 bay leaf ¼ teaspoon sage ¼ teaspoon white pepper 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 1 pound dried salt cod (prepared beforehand for cooking; see previous page) 1. Heat olive oil in a heavy frying pan or skillet. Add onion, bell pepper, garlic, bay leaf, sage and white pepper. Sauté over medium heat for about 3 minutes. 2. Add tomato sauce and cook for 3 minutes longer. 3. Add flaked codfish. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. 4. Serve with guanimes (see page 34). WINE: Blanc de Blancs is that sort of everyday wine we can’t do without. It’s simply white wine from all white grapes.

But when done right it renders a well balanced taste with a clean aftertaste. Serve chilled.

BACALAO CON HUEVOS (CODFISH WITH EGGS) YIELD: 4 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed 1 pound dried salt cod (prepared for cooking; see page 99) 3 tablespoons achiote (see page 10) 6 eggs, lightly beaten 1. Heat oil in a large frying pan or skillet. Sauté onion and garlic until onion is tender and slightly brown. 2. Add flaked codfish and achiote coloring. Cook for about 3 minutes. 3. Add beaten eggs. Sauté over low heat until eggs are scrambled to taste. WINE: Entre-Deaux-Mers (Awn-truh-duh mair) means “between two seas.” This refers to a region of Bordeaux that

produces a refreshing dry white, as well as some lesser known reds. Entre-Deaux-Mers, a mix of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes, should be served chilled.

BACALAO CON PAPAS EN CASEROLA (CODFISH-POTATO CASSEROLE) YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

1 pound potatoes 4 tablespoons olive oil 2 medium onions, peeled and thinly sliced 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed ¼ cup pimento stuffed Spanish olives, sliced in half 1 pound dried salt cod (prepared for cooking; see page 99) 2 hard cooked eggs, sliced in rounds 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Peel the potatoes and slice thinly. Cover in water and boil until tender. Drain and set aside. 3. Heat oil in a skillet or frying pan. Sauté onions and garlic until onions are limp and translucent. Sprinkle with olives and mix. 4. In a greased casserole dish, arrange alternate layers of onions, flaked codfish and potatoes, ending with onions. 5. Bake, uncovered, for 35 minutes. 6. Garnish with sliced eggs and serve. WINE: Trefethen Vineyards in California produces a non-vintage blend which they call Trefethen Eschol. It is an

excellent example of its type. Serve at cool room temperature.

BACALAO Y BERENJENA EN CASEROLA (CODFISH-EGGPLANT CASSEROLE) YIELD: 6 servings

1 eggplant (about 1 ½ to 2 pounds) 1 cup olive oil 3 medium onions, peeled and sliced thinly 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed 1 ½ pounds dried salt cod (prepared for cooking; see page 99) 1 16-ounce can crushed tomatoes 2 tablespoons butter 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Peel the eggplant and trim off ends. Cut the eggplant into 6 to 8 slices, each about ½-inch thick. 3. Heat ¾ cup of the olive oil in a large skillet or frying pan and sauté eggplant over moderate heat until it begins to brown (about 3 minutes on each side). Drain on absorbent paper towels. 4. Wipe skillet or frying pan clean. Heat remaining olive oil and sauté onions and garlic until onions are limp and translucent. 5. In a greased casserole dish, arrange alternate layers of eggplant, onions and flaked codfish. 6. Pour crushed tomatoes over contents in casserole. 7. Bake, covered, for 30 minutes. Uncover, dot with butter and bake 15 minutes more. WINE: Merlot (Mair-lo), preferably from California.

BACALAO CON PIMIENTOS (CODFISH WITH PEPPERS) YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce ¼ teaspoon white pepper 2 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped 1 pound dried salt cod (prepared for cooking; see page 99) 1. Heat oil in a heavy frying pan or skillet. Add onion, garlic and bell peppers. Stir-fry until tender (about 4 to 5 minutes). 2. Add tomato sauce, white pepper and ají dulce, and cook 3 minutes longer. 3. Add flaked codfish. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes. WINE: Graves (Grahv) is a wine district in Bordeaux known for its excellent white and red wines. The whites are dry and

crisp and should be served chilled.

FETTUCCINE CON SALSA DE ATÚN (FETTUCCINE WITH TUNA SAUCE) An excellent comida al tiempo (fast cooking) dish. YIELD: 4 servings

1 pound fettuccine 1 teaspoon salt ¼ cup olive oil plus 2 tablespoons 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into thin strips 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 2 6½-ounce cans tuna (packed in water), drained and flaked 1 6½-ounce jar pimentos, drained and cut into thin strips 2 tablespoons capers, drained ½ teaspoon dried marjoram ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper ¼ cup fresh Italian parsley, washed and chopped 1. Combine 3½ quarts (14 cups) water, salt and 2 tablespoons oil in a large pot. Bring to a boil and cook fettuccine according to package directions. Do not overcook. 2. While pasta is cooking, heat remaining oil in a large skillet or frying pan. Add bell pepper and garlic. Stir-fry over moderate heat until crisp-tender (about 4 minutes). 3. Add tuna, pimentos, capers, marjoram and pepper. Mix and cook for another 3 minutes. 4. Drain pasta and place in a serving bowl. Pour tuna sauce on top. Sprinkle with parsley and serve. WINE: A California Barbera.

SHELLFISH

As islanders, a taste for the fruits of the sea is in our blood. t always amazes me how often people who absolutely hate seafood go gaga over shellfish. You know the type: at a restaurant they’ll frown at the mention of salmon, and then order lobster. Especially kids. Some rugrats will refuse to eat tunafish out of the can, but they’ll go hog wild over shrimp. I think this is because shellfish, in some quarters, is not even considered seafood. It’s something different, something out there. Something exotic.

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Nuyoricans, by and large (and here I’m going by my extended family) love shellfish. Mention lobster, hard shell crabs and conchmeat and their eyes glaze over with delight. We only draw the line at raw oysters. No one in my family goes for them, myself included. But put a platter of cooked steamers before us, or steamed mussels (which I’ve never seen on the island, by the way) and we’re in heaven. As islanders, a taste for the fruits of the sea is in our blood. The same goes for North Atlantic specialties—prawns, little-neck clams and sea scallops—which our relatives discovered on the mainland when they first came over. For us, the usual side dish to shellfish is bianda—mapén, malanga, ñame— all those funny named rootplants that we enjoy smothered in olive oil. Just give us some jueyes, some camarones, some carrucho, a couple of beers, some salsa on the stereo, and we’re set.

JUEYES HERBIDOS (BOILED CRABS)

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n my parents’ day, jueyes (crabs) were a common staple in Puerto Rico. They could be found almost anywhere. Uncle Carlos attributed this to the vast sugar cane fields that dotted the landscape. Jueyes were land crabs, approximately the same size as Maryland crabs, and edible. My father recalled that, in his boyhood, they could be had for a penny apiece. At least three times a week in the homestead in Ponce it was crabs and guineos (boiled green bananas), or crabs and rice. Today, the crustaceans are gone from Puerto Rico. The demise of the cane fields and the rise of condos have eliminated them entirely. The crabs eaten in local restaurants are imported from nearby islands such as Aruba and St. Thomas. And they are quite expensive. The same staple that the old people would scorn back then is now valued as a delicacy. My folks claimed that the hard shell crabs we get on the mainland are not the same as their Caribbean counterpart. They stated categorically that Caribbean crabs are bigger and tastier. I’ve dined on dungeness crab in San Francisco, and island crab in San Juan. They’re both memorable. In the crab recipe that follows, the blue hard shell variety can be used. Remember that crabs make great finger food. The messier the better. I’ve noticed that the younger ones in the family love pulling off claws and twisting free crab legs. In point of fact, so do the adults. YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

12 live crabs (about 1½ pounds) 3 tablespoons salt 1 medium onion, peeled and halved 2 cloves garlic, peeled 3 ají dulce, (sweet chili peppers), seeded 4 fresh cilantro leaves with stems Dash or two of tabasco sauce (optional) 1. Place live crabs (using large tongs since these suckers tend to kick) in a large pot or kettle. 2. Fill with cold water to cover and let stand for 1 hour. This will rid the crabs of sediment. Drain and rinse under cold running water. 3. Rinse kettle and fill again with enough water to cover crabs.

4. Add remaining ingredients and bring to a rapid boil over high heat. Drop in crabs and boil for 30 minutes. 5. Drain and serve. NOTE: Steaming would involve the same process: after rinsing in cold water, the crabs are placed in a kettle with about

1½ inches of water, covered and steamed for 30 minutes.

PREPARING A CRAB FOR SERVING TABLE

1. With thumb or knife, remove and discard apron flap on underside of crab.

2. Break off claws and legs. Crack claws and scoop out meat from claws and leg sockets.

3. With thumb or knife, lift off top shell from body.

4. Scrape away the spongy matter at the sides of the body and the center, and discard. 5. Hold crab on each side and break it apart at the center. Remove chunks of meat between

the sections. 6. The gall and stomach bag from the shell should be discarded. The liver, corals and remaining contents inside the shell can be eaten or reserved for use in other recipes.

JUEYES CRIOLLO (STEWED CRABMEAT)

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n this recipe (and the one that follows) we call for reserved crabmeat. Now, you can make your own crabmeat following the recipe and diagram given on pages 108. Just scoop out the delicious chunks of meat inside the shells and sections (not the spongy matter at the sides and in the center). Crabs can be obtained from your local fishmonger. If you get Caribbean crabs, especially those from the Dominican Republic, then you’re in luck. Otherwise—and here we go again into controversial territory—canned crabmeat will do. If using fresh reserved crabmeat, it should be boiled again. If using crabmeat from the can, there is no need to boil. Just make sure to pick out any shell pieces. YIELD: 4 servings

1 cup reserved crabmeat 6 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon dried oregano 3 tablespoons olive oil ½ green bell pepper, seeded and chopped 1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 16-ounce can plum tomatoes 1. Boil reserved crabmeat in unsalted water to cover for about 5 minutes. Drain and set aside. 2. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, salt and oregano. 3. In a heavy skillet or fry pan, heat oil and sauté bell pepper and onion over moderate heat until tender. 4. Add seasoning and tomatoes with their liquid. Sauté for 5 minutes, breaking up tomatoes with a wooden spoon as they cook. 5. Stir in crabmeat. Cover and simmer on low heat for 10 minutes. WINE: Sauvignon Blanc.

JUEYES SALMOREJO (CRABMEAT SALMOREJO STYLE)

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do not know what salmorejo means. Neither does anyone else in my family. Uncle Carlos surmised that it’s a word native to Puerto Rico that can be roughly translated as a “salad.” Perhaps. There are many crab salmorejo recipes. In some instances, sweet chili and capers are added. Our version is simple and no-nonsense. The only liberty I’ve taken is in adding a little white wine. May not be exactly criollo but it supplies a bit of dash. YIELD: 4 servings

1 ½ cups reserved crabmeat 6 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon dried oregano 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 6 pimento stuffed Spanish olives, minced 4 fresh cilantro leaves, minced ¼ cup dry white wine 1. Boil reserved crabmeat in unsalted water to cover for 5 minutes. Drain and set aside. 2. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, salt and oregano. 3. In a heavy skillet or frying pan, heat oil and sauté bell pepper and onion over moderate heat until tender. 4. Add seasoning, olives and cilantro. Sauté for 5 minutes. 5. Stir in crabmeat and wine. Cover and simmer on low heat for 10 minutes. WINE: A nice, dry Riesling (Rees-ling), chilled.

LANGOSTA HERVIDA (BOILED LOBSTER)

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oiling is still the preferred method of cooking lobster in most kitchens. It’s relatively quick and no fuss. The only proviso is that one should choose lobsters ranging from 1 to 1½ pounds. Figure that a 1-pound lobster is from 5 to 6 years old. If you go for something humongous you’re eating an old timer that may not be as tasty. PREPARATION: Fill a large kettle or pot with enough water to cover lobster. Add 1 tablespoon salt and bring to a roiling boil. Pick up lobster carefully from behind the head and plunge it into the boiling water, head first. Bring to a second boil, cover and simmer for 12 to 15 minutes (for a 1¼-pounder). My more humanistic friends claim that the traditional mode of boiling lobster, as described above, is barbaric. They adhere to a more “humane” way of doing in the lobster. This entails slowly sliding the lobster into the kettle filled with luke warm water. After 10 minutes the lobster will lay there dormant, almost as if lulled to sleep. Then you turn up the heat high, bring to a boil and cook the lobster until it turns dark red (12 to 15 minutes). Traditional or “humane,” after cooking remove lobster to a cutting board. Place on its back and, with a sharp knife, slit the undershell lengthwise from head to tail. Remove and discard the stomach sac near the head and the intestinal vein which runs the entire length of the tail. Also discard the gills which are located between the shell and the meat. Female lobsters may have coral (or red roe), which is edible. Same for the green liver (tomally) which is found in all lobsters.

Crack claws with a nutcracker and arrange lobster on a plate. Or you can remove lobster meat from tail and claws and serve separately. Lobster is best served accompanied on the side by melted butter and lemon wedges. Or you can improvise your own sauce. I prefer lobster meat with mayonnaise. There’s people

in my family who prefer it with French dressing. Different strokes. WINE: Chablis is considered the classic companion to oysters. It also goes with lobster. And by Chablis I mean the crisp

white wine that comes from Burgundy. If you want something a little more fruity, then a chilled California Chenin Blanc is a good choice.

LANGOSTA AL VAPOR (STEAMED LOBSTER)

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teaming is another easy way to prepare lobster. There are those who prefer it over boiling. Both methods are equally good. The cooking time is shortened, however, depending on the weight of the lobster. 12 minutes should be sufficient for a 1 ¼-pounder. 15 minutes should do it for a 1 ½-pounder. PREPARATION: Fill a large kettle or pot with water to cover a depth of 1 inch (or 2 inches if cooking 2 or more lobsters). Add 1 tablespoon salt and bring to a roiling boil. Plunge lobster into boiling water, head first. Cover kettle tightly and steam lobster. Remove and slit the undershell lengthwise. Remove and discard the stomach sac near the head and the intestinal vein. Crack claws and serve with melted butter and lemon wedges. Some innovative cooks like to add a cup of dry white wine to the water before steaming the lobster. Others may add a teaspoon of fine cognac or good quality scotch. They say it provides that extra “something” to lobster cuisine.

LANGOSTA A LA PARRILLA (BROILED LOBSTER) The third method to cook lobster is by broiling. Again, cooking time varies. A 1¼pound lobster should be done in 15 minutes. For a 1 ½-pounder, 18 minutes is all that’s needed. PREPARATION: Preheat broiler for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, with a sharp knife, slit the lobster where the body and tail section meet to sever the spinal cord and kill the lobster instantly. Place the lobster on its back and split the carcass from head to tail. Remove and discard the stomach sac and intestinal vein. Arrange lobster, shell down, on broiler rack. Brush with melted butter or margarine seasoned with salt and pepper to taste. Broil 3 to 4 inches from heat source until lightly browned. Serve with lemon wedges and additional melted butter on the side.

CAMARONES GUISADOS (STEWED SHRIMP)

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uyoricans like their shrimp plain and unadorned. Lightly simmered in their shell for maybe a couple of minutes. Preferably cooked in beer, or in water seasoned with peppercorns and bay leaves. We also like them prepared together with other seafood or with yellow rice. The classic continental process of cooking shrimp in sauces such as remoulade, cream sauce or vinaigrette just doesn’t strike our fancy. At least not in what we call campesino (country) cooking. The most we might venture is shrimp with lemonbutter. One of the exceptions to this rule, however, is stewed shrimp, usually served accompanied by rice. YIELD: 4 to 5 servings

6 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon dried oregano 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 16-ounce can plum tomatoes 6 fresh cilantro leaves, minced 1 bay leaf 8 pimento stuffed Spanish olives 2 pounds raw shrimp, shelled and deveined 1. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, salt and oregano. 2. Heat oil in a heavy kettle or frying pan and sauté bell pepper and onion over moderate heat until tender. 3. Stir in tomatoes (with their liquid), seasoning, cilantro, bay leaf and olives. Sauté for 5 minutes, breaking up tomatoes with a wooden spoon as they cook. 4. Add shrimp, mix, and cook until shrimp turn pink (2 to 3 minutes depending on size). WINE: The ever popular Chardonnay. Although I would also consider a Verdicchio with its more tart and dry character.

CAMARONES RELLENOS AL HORNO (STUFFED SHRIMP)

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his is one of our more elaborate shrimp dishes. Here the shrimp is baked and, for best results, jumbo shrimp is used. The trick is to avoid overcooking. For jumbo shrimp, 10 to 15 minutes is ample time. Serve on a bed of rice. YIELD: 4 servings

16 to 18 raw jumbo shrimp, deveined but with tails left in the shell 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 3 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped 1 16-ounce can mushrooms, drained Lemon wedges 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. With a sharp knife make a slit on inner side of shrimp. Open the slit so that it makes a small pocket for stuffing. 3. Heat oil in a skillet or frying pan. Add bell pepper, garlic, onion and ají dulce and sauté over moderate heat until tender. Stir in mushrooms and cook for about 3 minutes. 4. Stuff shrimp pockets with the vegetables. 5. Arrange shrimp in a greased baking dish and bake until they become pink and curl up (no more than 15 minutes). 6. Serve with lemon wedges. WINE: The Friuli, Trentino and Alto Adige region in northern Italy produce the classic dry white known as Pinot Grigio

(Pee-noh Gree-joh). This is the Italian name for the pinot gris grape. The result is a crisp, delicate wine with a fresh taste, which is best served chilled.

CAMARONES CON CEBOLLA (SHRIMP WITH ONION)

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quickie fix-up—with a little bit of rum spirits. The shrimp is stir-fried just to doneness and smothered in onions. This dish goes great with crusty bread or on

rice.

YIELD: 4 servings

¼ cup olive oil 2 medium onions, peeled and thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 2 pounds raw shrimp, shelled and deveined 3 tablespoons white Puerto Rican rum 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice ¼ teaspoon dried tarragon Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Heat oil in a large skillet or frying pan. Add onions and garlic and sauté over moderate heat until onion is limp and transparent. 2. Add shrimp, rum, lemon juice, tarragon, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, until shrimp turn pink (3 to 4 minutes). WINE: I would forego the grape with this entrée and recommend ice-cold beer or ale.

CAMARONES EN ESCABECHE (PICKLED SHRIMP)

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ickled shrimp, marinated shrimp, take your pick. It’s all the same. The question is whether the shells should be left on the shrimp or not. In some circles it’s considered classy to let each person peel his or her own shrimp after the marinating process. To me, it’s a bother and a waste of time. I just want to eat the things, not peel them all night. Naturally, this is an individual preference. There are those who claim that serving shrimp in the shell is more romantic. Sure. YIELD: 4 servings

2 pounds raw shrimp, shelled and deveined ½ cup olive oil 2 medium red onions, peeled and thinly sliced 12 pimento stuffed Spanish olives 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ teaspoon dried oregano 6 fresh cilantro leaves, chopped 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Place shrimp in a kettle or pot with water to cover. 2. Bring to a boil on high heat and cook for 2 minutes. 3. Drain and combine in a bowl with the remaining ingredients. Mix well. 4. Cover and store in refrigerator for at least 4 hours or, preferably, overnight. WINE: Seyval Blanc (Say-vaul Blawhn) is a varietal found in New York State. It has a pleasant and soft bouquet

somewhat reminiscent of a Chardonnay.

MEJILLONES CRIOLLO (MUSSELS CREOLE STYLE)

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’ve never seen mussels in Puerto Rico. I’m told this mollusk is native to colder waters. Thus you won’t find them in Mexico but you’ll see them served in Argentina. The most common way to prepare mussels is Marinière style, whereby mussels are steamed in white wine with shallots, onion and parsley. Mussels can also be marinated, or served in a cream or mustard sauce. We cook them with tomatoes and add our unique Nuyorican flavor. Mussels are easy to cook but a drudge to clean. The first rule of thumb is to discard any mussels that are already open. Then they have to be well scrubbed and “debearded” before cooking. That is, the stringy filaments by which the mussel attaches itself to rocks have to be removed. These suckers can be tough, and I know of people who use pliers to pull off the little beard. Another way is to rinse the mussels under cold running water, rubbing the shells together to remove the stuff clinging to them. Once that’s done everything else is a breeze. YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

¾ cup olive oil 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1 28-ounce can plum tomatoes 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves ½ teaspoon dried oregano 3 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped Salt and ground black pepper to taste 3 quarts mussels (about 4 pounds), cleaned 1. Heat oil in a heavy pot or kettle. Add bell pepper, onion and garlic and sauté over moderate heat until tender. 2. Stir in tomatoes (with their liquid), cilantro, oregano, ají dulce, salt and pepper. 3. Sauté about 5 minutes more, breaking up tomatoes with a wooden spoon as they cook. 4. Bring to a boil and add mussels. Cover pot and simmer on low heat until mussels are open. This should take 5 to 10 minutes. 5. Toss mussels with sauce and serve over rice, pasta or with crusty bread.

WINE: Roditis (Ro-dee-tees) is a Greek rose wine with a fruity bouquet and clean taste. Serve well chilled.

CARRUCHO (CONCH MEAT)

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or the Chinese, it is an affinity for abalone. For the Italians, it’s scungili. We call it carrucho. What we are talking about is the flesh that is found in conch shells. This dish exemplifies the different mindset of different cultures. To most North Americans the conch shell is used solely for ornamentation. To Latinos—as well as people of the Mediterranean and the Orient—this mollusk is used for food and ornamentation. Conch meat can be found in any Hispanic or Asian fish market. Most fishmongers order it on request. You can purchase it already cleaned or you can save pennies and do it yourself. The excess film that covers the skin has to be removed. This can best be done under cold running water. YIELD: 4 servings

3 pounds conch meat, cleaned Juice of one lemon 2 tablespoons salt 8 whole black peppercorns 3 cloves garlic, peeled ½ teaspoon dried oregano 3 tablespoons white vinegar ½ cup olive oil 2 medium onions, peeled and thinly sliced 2 medium ripe tomatoes, cut into wedges ¼ cup pimento stuffed Spanish olives ⅛ teaspoon sage 1. Place cleaned conch meat in a bowl. Add ¼ cup water and lemon juice and let stand for 10 minutes. 2. Remove conch meat to a heavy pot or kettle with water to cover. Add salt and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 1 hour. 3. Drain and, when cool enough to handle, cut into small bite-sized pieces. Place in a serving bowl or casserole dish. 4. Crush peppercorns, garlic and oregano in a mortar. Mix with vinegar and olive oil. Add to conch meat. 5. Add onions, tomatoes and olives. Sprinkle with sage and toss well.

6. Cover and let stand for 30 minutes. 7. Serve with bianda or small red potatoes. WINE: Muscadet.

SQUID

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quid, also known as cuttlefish, is another of those items that has not been readily accepted in this country. Mention squid and someone is bound to roll their eyes and make a face. If only they knew what a glorious delicacy it is—if prepared correctly. Squid has graced the tables of those in the know for thousands of years. The ancient Greeks loved it. So did the Romans. Today, in Tokyo, Beijing, Madrid, Florence, Lisbon and Paris, squid is consumed with gusto. We in America have used it mainly for bait. Our squid comes from the East Coast where it’s a seasonal catch in New England and the Carolinas. Luckily, squid is available from California all year round. It’s not only low in calories but a great source of protein. And it’s cheap. Squid is not hard to cook. The problem arises with overcooking. This renders the meat tough and rubbery. Squid should be cooked until it is just tender. In most cases no more than 30 minutes. The other drawback most people cite about squid is cleaning it. It ain’t all that difficult. The first step is to rinse the squid, tentacles and all, under cold running water. Then cut the tentacles, which are near the eyes, and remove from the head. Reserve the tentacles since they are considered the choicest morsel. Remove and discard the mouth which is located in the center of the tentacles. Now, rub off the purplish outer skin of the body under running water with your hands. Hold the closed end of the body (also called the mantle) in one hand and with the other squeeze out the innards, pushing out the viscera, head and translucent backbone. Turn body inside out. Discard head, viscera and bone. Wash the inside of the body thoroughly. Lay the body on a flat surface and slice down the center from top to bottom. Spread open and cut body into bite-sized pieces or strips. Cut tentacles into ½ inch rounds. Another way of removing the viscera from the squid is to feel inside the body with one hand and simply pull out the innards, rather than using the toothpaste method of squeezing forward. Whichever way you do it, after washing and cutting, the squid is set for cooking.

CALAMARES GUISADO (STEWED SQUID) YIELD: 4 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 2 pounds squid, cleaned and prepared for cooking 1 16-ounce can crushed plum tomatoes ½ teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon dried tarragon Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Heat the oil in a heavy kettle or skillet and add bell pepper, onion and garlic. Sauté over moderate heat until tender. 2. Add squid and cook for 5 minutes. 3. Stir in tomatoes, oregano, tarragon, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 15 to 20 minutes or until tender. WINE: Retsina is the best known white wine in Greece, and it’s an acquired taste. Reason for that is that it’s flavored with

pine sap. No kidding. I’m the only one in my family who likes it. Whether as an aperitif or table wine, it should be served chilled. If your taste buds can’t pass the Retsina then a good dry white will do. If you’re in the mood for a red, try a Merlot.

CALAMARES RELLENO (STUFFED SQUID)

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or the following recipe it’s best to use small sized squid. The body of the squid makes a natural receptacle for stuffing. Any good savory will do. We use mushrooms, but meat, shrimp and even cooked eggplant can be substituted. YIELD: 4 servings

2 cups fresh mushrooms, washed and chopped ⅔ cup bread crumbs 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced ½ teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon dried tarragon 2 tablespoons capers, drained 1 egg, lightly beaten 2 tablespoons butter or margarine 8 small squid, cleaned, with tentacles cut off but body kept whole ½ cup olive oil 1 cup dry white wine 1 bay leaf Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. In a large bowl, combine mushrooms, bread crumbs, garlic, oregano, tarragon, capers, egg and butter. 2. Chop the tentacles finely and add to bowl. 3. Stuff the mixture loosely into each squid body (about ⅔ full). While cooking, the squid shrinks slightly. If overstuffed, the body may rupture. Close cavity with toothpicks and save any remaining filling 4. Heat oil in a saucepan or skillet large enough to hold squid in one layer. Brown the squid lightly on all sides. 5. Add wine, remaining filling, bay leaf, salt and pepper. 6. Cover and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes. 7. Add ½ cup water or just enough to barely cover squid. Cook, uncovered on moderately low heat 10 to 15 minutes or until squid is tender.

WINE: From France’s Loire Valley comes Rose d’Anjou (Ro-zay dew Ahn-jhoo). They can be slightly sweet or dry, with

a light and pleasant taste. Seek a dry variety and serve chilled.

PULPO GUISADO (STEWED OCTOPUS)

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consider octopus to be the flip side of squid. It gets the same response from most of my acquaintances: “Aw, shucks” and “No way.” And, like squid, it’s regarded as heaven sent by those of us who appreciate value and nutrition. Octopus can be found in most fish markets on both coasts. If for some reason your local fish den doesn’t have it, then check out any Greek, Latino, Chinese, Jamaican or Portuguese neighborhood. It is available fresh or frozen. In most places you’ll find it already cleaned. If not, the fishmonger will clean it for you. Octopus is cleaned just like squid in that the head cavity is flushed out. Usually, octopus comes already prepared for cooking. Fresh or frozen, octopus is sold whole and normally weighs 2 to 4 pounds. Before cooking, octopus should be rinsed in water and drained thoroughly. The mouth, a hard piece located underneath the body that looks like an eye, should be cut off and discarded. All rules that apply to fresh fish apply to octopus. Freshness is indicated by color and skin texture. The flesh should be firm and elastic to the touch. It should be purplish pink. If the color is brownish or brownish purple, skip it. This denotes that the octopus is old and no longer fresh. Same goes for odor. If you detect a fishy or strong “off” smell, pass it by. The mollusk should smell saltwater fresh befitting its marine environment. YIELD: 4 servings

2½ to 3 pounds baby octopus 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes ½ teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon dried basil Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Place octopus in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven with water to cover. Bring to a boil, cover pot, lower heat and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes. At this point the octopus should be pink and slightly tender. Remove octopus from kettle, drain and cut into bite-size pieces. 2. Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a deep skillet. Add bell pepper, onion and garlic.

Sauté over moderate heat for about 5 minutes. 3. Stir in tomatoes, oregano, basil, salt and pepper. Cook 3 minutes more. 4. Add octopus meat. Cover skillet and simmer over low heat for another 10 minutes.

POULTRY

I think any culture can be measured by how well it prepares its chicken entreés. In Nuyorican cuisine, we run the gamut from simple roasted chicken to a complicated megillah like asopao. In between there is stewed chicken, as in the recipe below.

POLLO GUISAPO (STEWED CHICKEN)

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his is a poor person’s quickie banquet. The ingredients can be added and changed to suit the circumstances or the pocketbook. If desired, green bell peppers can be substituted for pimentos. You can add peas, mushrooms or almost any other vegetable you have on hand. Or keep it simple. I prefer to skin the chicken before cooking. But this too is a matter of individual taste. YIELD: 4 servings

1 medium stewing chicken, about 2½ pounds, cut into serving pieces 2 cloves garlic, peeled 4 whole peppercorns Salt to taste 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 bay leaf 3 sprigs fresh parsley 3 medium Idaho or Maine potatoes, halved and quartered 1 small onion, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon sofrito (see page 9) 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 5 to 6 pitted, medium black olives, rinsed in cold water 1 4-ounce jar pimentos, drained 1. Rinse chicken pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Put the garlic, peppercorns, salt and oregano into a mortar, and pound until crushed. Rub this seasoning thoroughly into the chicken pieces, including the liver, gizzard and neck. 3. In a large pot or casserole (a Dutch oven is good for this), place the chicken pieces along with the bay leaf and parsley sprigs. Add water to cover chicken pieces. Bring to a boil, lower heat to medium. Cover and simmer until chicken pieces are tender (about 20 minutes). 4. Add potatoes, onion slices, sofrito, tomato sauce and olives. Stir and combine. 5. Cook, covered, until potatoes are tender and sauce has thickened somewhat (about ½ hour). Garnish with pimentos, either sliced or whole.

WINE: A chilled California Mountain Chablis. Or a Pinot Grigio, for those who prefer something a little dryer. I like this

dish with a Merlot.

POLLO AL HORNO (ROAST CHICKEN)

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he roasted chicken served in the island is, naturally, far more highly seasoned than its mainland variant. As a result, it’s also saltier. This always struck me when I visited the folks in Ponce. Traditionally, Sunday was the roast chicken day at the house, and it was the one day that my mom got a break from cooking. My mother went to morning Mass, and me and the old man headed for La Playa (the beach), where my father has friends from early childhood. We usually made the rounds of the cafetines and invariably ended up at Cesar’s, a place that looked more like a Mexican cantina than a take-out joint. There, after having a brew or two, my father ordered a plate of roasted chicken to go, which we took back to Mother at the ancestral home. The recipe on the next page is your basic roasted chicken. In our family recipe, we truss the bird. We find it retains its juices that way. 1ST VERSION YIELD: 4 servings

1 3 to 3¼ pound fryer-roaster, with giblets 3 cloves garlic, peeled 4 whole peppercorns Salt to taste 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried ¼ cup olive oil 1 whole onion, peeled and cut in half 2 tablespoons butter or margarine ½ cup clear chicken broth 1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. 2. Rinse chicken, inside and out, under cold running water. Pat dry with paper towels. 3. Put the garlic, peppercorns, salt and oregano into a mortar and pound until crushed. Rub the chicken, inside and out, with the seasoning. Stuff the cavity with the bay leaf and thyme. Truss up the chicken with string. For this you’ll need a trussing needle and kitchen string. If you don’t want to go through the trouble of sewing the bird, then you can just tie together the lower parts of the drumsticks to enclose the

cavity. 4. Place the chicken in a shallow roasting pan. Pour in the olive oil to coat the entire chicken. Place the chicken on its side and scatter the neck, gizzard, liver and onion halves around it. 5. Place the chicken in the oven and roast 20 minutes, basting occasionally. Turn the chicken on its other side and roast another 20 minutes, basting occasionally. Remove as much fat as possible from the roasting pan. Place the chicken on its back and add the butter or margarine, chicken broth and ¼ cup water. Roast for 20 minutes longer. With a fork or tongs, lift up the chicken and let the cavity juices flow into the pan. The chicken should be golden brown all over and the juices from it should be clear. 6. Untruss or untie the chicken. Remove and discard bay leaf and thyme. Carve the chicken into serving pieces. Place the roasting pan atop the stove. Bring the pan juices to a boil, stirring until it forms into gravy. If desired, you can add cornstarch (½ to 1 teaspoon) mixed with water to thicken. Serve chicken with hot gravy. This dish goes well with rice, pasta, couscous or parsleyed potatoes.

2ND VERSION Here is a simplified version of Pollo al Homo in which the chicken is split in half and baked. No fuss with trussing, no mess. YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

2 broiler fryers, about 3 pounds each, split in half ½ cup olive oil Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon dried tarragon 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1. Wash chicken halves and pat dry with paper towels. Place in large bowl. 2. In a small bowl or cup, mix the olive oil, salt and pepper, oregano, tarragon and crushed garlic. Pour over the chicken, rubbing the seasoning thoroughly into the skin. Cover bowl and let stand 15 minutes or, better still, refrigerate overnight. 3. Preheat oven to 400°F. Remove chicken halves from marinade and place in a shallow roasting pan, skin side up. Bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown and the juices are no longer pink. WINE: A good quality Chablis, not the East River jug variety. For a red, my preference would be a California or Chilean

Pinot Noir, which are light and pleasantly fruity as compared to their robust cousins from France.

POLLO FRITO (FRIED CHICKEN)

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veryone loves fried chicken. At least almost everyone. It’s the one dish that, if you have kids in the house, won’t create any problems in terms of picky eaters. Our recipe is fairly simple. If you want plain fried chicken, skip the flour and cook in butter or olive oil instead of vegetable oil. 1ST VERSION YIELD: 4 servings

1 fryer chicken, about 2½ pounds, cut into generous bite-sized pieces 2 cloves garlic, crushed or ½ teaspoon garlic powder Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon onion powder (optional) 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon vinegar Vegetable oil for frying 1 cup flour 1. Rinse chicken pieces under cold, running water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Place chicken in a bowl and rub with crushed garlic. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, oregano and onion powder. Rub seasoning well into chicken pieces. Drizzle with olive oil and vinegar. Mix to combine. Cover and set aside for 15 minutes. If you really want strong flavors, refrigerate overnight. 3. Heat a generous amount of oil (1 inch to 1½ inch deep) to medium temperature (about 340°F) in a heavy-bottomed pot, large skillet or deep fryer. 4. Remove chicken from marinade and dust lightly with flour. Use your hands to toss and coat each piece thoroughly. 5. Add chicken pieces to hot oil, a few at a time and deep-fry until golden brown and crisp (3 to 5 minutes), turning the individual pieces as they cook. Remove and drain on absorbent paper towels. Serve piping hot. WINE: An inexpensive Moselle such as a Moselblümchen or a Zeller Schwarze Katz. However, some may be put off by

their slight sweetness. In that case, Pouilly-Vinzelles, similar to the renowned Pouilly-Fuissé but less expensive. Serve chilled.

2ND VERSION Here is a variation of pollo frito in which the chicken is cooked in the marinade combined with chicken bouillon or broth, lending it a more heady flavor. YIELD: 4 servings

1 fryer chicken, 2½ to 3 pounds, cut into bite-sized pieces ¼ cup olive oil 1 tablespoon vinegar 2 cloves garlic, crushed Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon dried tarragon Vegetable oil for frying 1 cup flour 1 cup chicken bouillon or broth 1. Wash chicken pieces and dry with paper towels. 2. Place chicken in a large bowl. Combine the olive oil, vinegar, garlic, salt, pepper, oregano and tarragon. Pour over the chicken and rub seasoning thoroughly into the pieces. Cover bowl and set aside for 15 minutes or refrigerate overnight. 3. Heat generous amounts of oil to medium temperature (about 340°F) in a large skillet, heavy-bottomed pot or deep fryer. 4. Remove chicken from marinade and dust pieces with flour until thoroughly coated. Reserve marinade. 5. Add chicken pieces to hot oil, a few at a time, and deep-fry for 5 minutes on each side, turning once. Remove and drain on absorbent paper towels. 6. Drain oil from skillet. Add the reserve marinade and chicken bouillon or broth. Return chicken to skillet. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes. WINE: Vouvray. Light and fruity and similar to California Chenin Blanc, but not as rich. Serve chilled.

POLLO ASADO A LA PARRILLA (BROILED CHICKEN)

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asy, simple broiled chicken. This is one of those dishes that can be adapted for outdoor grilling over charcoal or hot coals. YIELD: 4 servings

3 pounds broiler-fryer chicken parts ½ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons vinegar Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 teaspoon dried oregano 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1. Rinse chicken parts under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Place in a bowl. 2. Mix the olive oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, oregano and garlic and pour over the chicken. Rub seasoning thoroughly into chicken parts. Refrigerate overnight. 3. Remove chicken from bowl, reserve marinade. Broil in a pan, rack or greased aluminum foil 7 inches from heat source for 30 minutes. Turn once during broiling and baste frequently with the marinade. WINE: Petit Chablis. This is not your common California jug version. These are lesser whites from grapes grown around

the district of Chablis, France. They are crisp and dry and should be served chilled.

ASOPAO DE POLLO (CHICKEN STEW)

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ere it is, the universal Puerto Rican stew. This is not stewed chicken as in pollo guisado. This is chicken in a soup-based casserole along with rice and vegetables. The rice is what gives it its body or “oomph” as we used to say back on the block. So it could be considered a rice dish. For the sake of consistency, we put it in the poultry section. It’s ironic that this dish originated in a semi-tropical climate. It’s the best thing for a cold, wintry day. Back on 110th Street and Lexington Avenue one could tell the coming of the weekend by two things: the beer stocked up in the cafetines, and the aroma of asopao cooking in countless tenement flats on a Friday evening. By the time most kids got home from school, the scent of peppercorns, chorizo and cured ham would fill the hallways and stairwells in most buildings of the Barrio. In the Jewish neighborhoods of Crown Heights and Brighton Beach, it would be the sweet smell of challah that would portend the coming of the Sabbath. With us, it would be the strong, rich aura of chicken stew that would signal our time of solace. YIELD: 6 servings

2 cups long-grain rice 1 3 to 3½ pound fryer chicken, cut into serving pieces 2 cloves garlic, crushed Salt to taste 4 whole black peppercorns 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon paprika ¼ cup olive oil 1 tablespoon vinegar 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 4 ounces lean cured ham (also known as cooking ham; about ½ cup), diced 2 ounces salted pork, washed and diced 1 tablespoon sofrito (see page 9) 1 medium green bell pepper, chopped 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 1 1-pound can peeled plum tomatoes

2 4-ounce jars sweet red pimentos (contents of one jar chopped with juice reserved for use with recipe; contents of second jar for garnish) 2 chorizo (or Italian pepperoni), cut into ½-inch rounds 2 tablespoons achiote (see page 10) 7 cups chicken bouillon or broth 1 can (1 pound 1 ounce) green peas, drained or 1 10-ounce package frozen peas 10 pimento stuffed Spanish olives 2 tablespoons capers, drained 1. Soak rice in a large pot or bowl with water to cover. Set aside. 2. Wash chicken pieces, pat dry with paper towels, and place in large mixing bowl. 3. Put the garlic, salt, peppercorns, oregano and paprika in a mortar and pound until crushed. Rub this seasoning thoroughly into the chicken pieces, including liver, gizzard and neck. Mix olive oil and vinegar and pour over chicken. Cover bowl and set aside for chicken pieces to absorb flavors. 4. In a large pot, Dutch oven or heavy iron casserole, heat the vegetable oil and stir-fry the ham and salt pork until rendered of its fat (about 2 to 3 minutes). Reduce heat to medium and stir in the sofrito, green bell pepper and chopped onion. Sauté ingredients for 3 to 4 minutes. Add plum tomatoes (with their juice), chopped pimentos with juice, chorizo (or pepperoni) and achiote. Cook, uncovered, another 5 minutes. 5. Add chicken pieces and cook, uncovered, for 7 to 10 minutes. 6. Pour in the chicken bouillon or broth and rapidly bring to a boil. Drain rice, add to the mixture and bring to a second boil. Lower heat and gently simmer, uncovered, until rice is just tender. Add the green peas, Spanish olives and capers. Continue cooking for 5 to 10 minutes more until rice is done. In a classic asopao all the ingredients should congeal into a thick soup. The rice should be soft, almost lightly mashed. Usual cooking time for rice is 20 to 30 minutes. You can adjust the thickness of the stew by regulating the cooking time with more liquid or thicken by boiling for a few extra minutes. Asapao is eaten from a bowl or soup plate garnished with the reserved pimento. WINE: Any inexpensive white Burgundy such as Macon Blanc. For a red, I prefer a light and fruity Grignolino, from

Italy’s Piedmont region.

POLLO EMPANAO (BREADED CHICKEN)

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readed chicken has long been a favorite in our tribe. We’ve experimented over the years using such ingredients as soy sauce, mustard and salad dressing for dipping the chicken. But we always come back to the ubiquitous egg-oil mix. For those who are worried about that bugaboo, cholesterol, egg whites can be used without the yolk. The flavor won’t be the same, but your arteries may thank you. YIELD: 4 to 5 servings

3 chicken breasts, split, boned and skinned 1 egg, beaten ¾ cup olive oil 1 tablespoon vinegar 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 cup dry bread crumbs ¼ cup butter or margarine 1. Wash chicken breasts and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Place chicken breasts between two sheets of wax paper and pound thin to about ¼-inch thickness. 3. In a bowl, combine egg, ½ cup olive oil, vinegar and garlic. Spread dry bread crumbs on a plate. 4. Dip the chicken in the egg-oil mixture, and then dredge in bread crumbs, turning gently to coat. 5. Heat butter and additional ¼ cup olive oil in a large skillet or frying pan. Cook cutlets until crusty and brown (around 3 minutes per side). Drain on absorbent paper towels. WINE: Morgon, the most full-flavored Beaujolais red. Serve lightly chilled.

POLLO CON POLVO DE CURRY (CURRIED CHICKEN)

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ccording to family historians the origin of this dish is Trinidad. My father, during the Second World War, spent time in Trinidad. That may be one of the reasons we acquired this recipe. It calls for curry powder, which is not a common staple of Nuyorican cooking. That said, the dish is superb, especially for those who like a bit of spice to their dining. YIELD: 6 servings

1 2½-to-3 pound fryer chicken, cut into serving pieces 2 cloves garlic, peeled 4 whole black peppercorns Salt to taste ½ cup olive oil ½ teaspoon thyme leaves or ¼ teaspoon dried 2 medium tomatoes, coarsely chopped 1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced ¼ cup chopped scallions 1 hot chili pepper, diced 1 tablespoon curry 1. Rinse chicken pieces in cold running water, and pat dry with paper towels. Place in a bowl. 2. Put garlic, peppercorns, salt and thyme in a mortar, and pound until crushed. Rub chicken pieces with this seasoning. Cover bowl and let stand at least 30 minutes. 3. In a large pot, skillet or Dutch oven, heat olive oil. Add chicken pieces, two or three at a time, and fry until golden. Remove and set aside. 4. Drain all but 2 tablespoons of oil from pot. Add tomatoes, onion, scallions, hot chili pepper and curry powder. Sauté for 5 minutes. 5. Stir in 2 cups water and bring to a boil. Return chicken to pot. Cover and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes or until chicken pieces are tender. This dish is best served with rice or bianda (root plants such as yautía, malanga, guineos, etc.). NOTE: I prefer using Indian curry powder which packs more of a wallop than regular store-bought curry. If you do use

Indian curry, then scale down the measurement to ½ tablespoon. If you’re really leery of curry, make it ¼ teaspoon. WINE: Beer is considered the best drink to go with curried chicken. If you insist on wine, the surprising choice is

Gewürztraminer. This tongue twister is an Alsatian product that has a hint of spiciness, which complements the entrée very well. Serve chilled.

POLLO EN FRICASÉ (CHICKEN FRICASSÉE)

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his entree is similar to the Nuyorican Style Stewed Chicken. However, the chicken pieces are browned lightly before stewing. Also, it takes longer to cook, but the effort involved is more than matched by the results. YIELD: 4 servings

1 3-pound stewing chicken, cut into serving pieces 2 garlic cloves, peeled 4 whole black peppercorns 1 teaspoon dried oregano Salt to taste ½ teaspoon onion powder 2 tablespoons vinegar ½ cup vegetable oil 1 tablespoon sofrito (see page 9) ½ cup tomato sauce (4 ounces) 1 tablespoon achiote (see page 10) 1 tablespoon sage 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ½-inch strips 5 to 6 pimento stuffed Spanish olives 2 medium Idaho or Maine potatoes, peeled and cut into approximately 1-inch cubes 1. Rinse chicken pieces under cold running water, and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Put garlic, peppercorns, oregano, salt and onion powder in a mortar. Pound until crushed. Rub seasoning thoroughly into chicken pieces. 3. Place chicken in a bowl. Mix olive oil and vinegar, and pour over chicken. Cover and let stand 15 minutes. 4. Heat vegetable oil in a large pot, casserole or Dutch oven. Add chicken pieces and cook over medium heat, turning occasionally until lightly brown. Add sofrito, tomato sauce, achiote and sage. Sauté 2 or 3 minutes. Add green pepper, stuffed olives and water to cover chicken pieces (about 1 cup). 5. Cover and simmer over low heat for 45 minutes.

6. During the last 20 minutes, add potato chunks. Chicken is done when it’s tender and sauce has thickened a bit. Serve over rice or with bianda. WINE: A California Barbera, which is a tart, dry wine slightly lighter than an Italian Barbera. Serve at room temperature.

For a white, try a Sauvignon Blanc (So-vee-nyon Blawhn).

HIGADO DE POLLO CON VINO (CHICKEN LIVERS WITH WINE)

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n my family, we love chicken livers. Let me be more specific, my father and I love chicken livers. In the Rivera clan, unfortunately, the younger generation has not developed this gustatory preference; but then, what do they know? Chicken liver is an acquired taste. What saves the dish below is its crowning simplicity. It’s superb over rice. YIELD: 4 servings

1 pound chicken livers 2 tablespoons olive oil Salt and black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon fresh cilantro (can substitute parsley, if desired) ½ cup dry white wine 1. Rinse livers under cold running water, and pat dry with paper towels. Remove any connective tissue. 2. Heat the oil in a skillet, frying pan or, if you want to be fancy about it, a chafing dish. Stir-fry livers until brown and add salt, pepper, cilantro and white wine. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. WINE: Liver is a funny match-up for wine. I’d say stick with a dry white such as a Frascati. Serve chilled.

HIGADO EN SALSA (CHICKEN LIVERS IN SAUCE)

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n this entrée, the livers are served with a brown sauce. As with the prior recipe, it can also be prepared at the table in a chafing dish or electric skillet. But don’t try flaming the sherry and pouring it in. With this dish, that won’t work. In my bachelor days, I once tried that trick in order to impress a young lady I had invited for dinner at my place. All I got for my effort was mocking laughter and a smoke alarm that wouldn’t stop blaring until the battery had died. YIELD: 4 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound chicken livers 1 small onion, coarsely chopped 1 teaspoon paprika 1 tablespoon flour ½ cup beef bouillon or broth ¼ cup light cream 2 tablespoons dry sherry, preferably Fino Salt and black pepper to taste 1. Rinse livers under cold running water and pat dry. Remove any connective tissue. 2. Heat oil in skillet or frying pan and sauté onion until transparent but not brown. Add chicken livers and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 8 minutes over high heat. Stir in paprika and flour. Add beef boullion or broth, cream and sherry. Stir and combine quickly. Season with salt and pepper. Serve over rice. WINE: Barbaresco, from Italy’s Piedmont region. Dry, full-bodied and robust so that it matches well with rich sauces.

POLLO EN CAPA (LAYERED CHICKEN)

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n this little humdinger, we have a layered effect. I suppose this dish could be prepared entirely on the stove rather than by baking but, honestly, I’ve never tried it that way. Baking seems to enhance the flavor and composition of the dish. YIELD: 6 to 8 servings

2 fryer chickens, 3-to-3¼ pounds each, cut into serving pieces ¾ cup olive oil 1 tablespoon vinegar Salt and black pepper to taste 2 teaspoons oregano 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed ½ teaspoon dried tarragon 2½ pounds potatoes, peeled and sliced into ½-inch rounds 2 medium onions, peeled and sliced into ¼-inch rounds 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and sliced into ¼-inch rounds 1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded and sliced into ¼-inch rounds 2 cups chicken broth or bouillon 6 large black olives, pitted and sliced in half 1. Wash chicken pieces in cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Place in a large bowl. 2. Combine in a small bowl or cup, ¼ cup of the olive oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, oregano, crushed garlic and tarragon. Pour over the chicken pieces, coating thoroughly and rubbing the seasoning into the skin. 3. Heat the remaining olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven. Brown chicken pieces lightly over medium heat, a few pieces at a time. This should be done in batches, allowing about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove chicken pieces and set aside. 4. Arrange about ⅓ of the potato slices in the pot or Dutch oven, fitting them in one layer. Arrange about ⅓ of the onions atop the potatoes. Add a layer of green and red bell peppers. Add a final layer of chicken pieces. Continue the layering, making sure to end with a layer of potatoes on top. 5. Preheat oven to 350°F. Pour the chicken bouillon or broth into the pot. Cover

and bring rapidly to a boil on the stove over a high heat. Garnish with olives. 6. Place the pot in the oven and bake 1½ hours, or until fork-tender. WINE: A light-bodied red from the Rioja region of Spain, such as a Banda Azul from Federico Paternina or a Preferido

from Bodegas Berberana.

POLLO AL GALLEGO (GALICIAN STYLE CHICKEN)

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his is another of Uncle Phillip’s contributions. Galicia is a maritime province in Northwest Spain, thus the Gallego appellation. What’s interesting about this dish is that, after the chicken breasts are roasted, the meat is removed from the bone; then it is served with a sauce. Paprika is a key element in the recipe. I prefer Hungarian paprika which is medium hot. Uncle Phillip prefered the milder Spanish paprika. Use whatever suits you best. YIELD: 6 servings

3 pounds whole chicken breasts with bone and skin 2 teaspoons paprika 1 tablespoon olive oil 4 garlic cloves, minced 1 bay leaf Pinch of cayenne pepper (about ⅛ teaspoon) 1 tablespoon flour ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup chicken broth or bouillon 6 pimento stuffed Spanish olives for garnish 1. Preheat the oven to 450°F. 2. Place chicken breasts, skin side down, in a shallow roasting pan. Sprinkle with ½ teaspoon paprika. Roast approximately 25 minutes or until golden brown. Allow to cool. Carefully remove chicken from bone. Set aside. 3. In a small pan or skillet, heat olive oil. Add garlic and bay leaf. Sauté until garlic turns brown (do not burn). Add remaining paprika, cayenne pepper, flour and salt. Mix well and slowly add chicken bouillon or broth. Bring to a boil, gently stirring to prevent lumps. Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring constantly. 4. Cut each breast in half lengthwise. Arrange breasts on a serving platter and pour hot sauce over chicken. Garnish with olives, either whole or sliced in half. Serve over rice. WINE: A lightly chilled Chianti. Yes, lightly chilled. And I still like the ones with the bulbous straw bottles (“Fiaschi”),

which are getting harder to find. If you prefer a white, try Aligote (Ah-lee-go-tay), one of the few French varietals. It’s pleasant and reasonably inexpensive. Serve chilled.

GUINEA GUISADA (STEWED GUINEA HEN)

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he meat of the guinea hen is darker than that of ordinary chicken and more full flavored. Because of this some people love the taste and some do not. This fowl can only be obtained from a genuine poultry market, poultry farm or butcher. To my knowledge, supermarkets do not carry it. It is also more expensive than regular poultry. A 2½ to 3 pound guinea hen will run you about thirty dollars. My parents (when they were in the city) and my Uncle Carlos always shopped for fresh poultry at a poultry market located in the Bronx between 140th and 141st streets. On the island, people in the interior still raise their own guinea hens. Uncle Phillip, Uncle Carlos and my father all swore by this recipe. And it was most unusual to have all three in agreement. YIELD: 6 servings

1 guinea hen, 2½ to 3 pounds, cut into serving pieces 2 ounces salt pork, rinsed in cold water and diced 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 tablespoon achiote (see page 10) 2 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped 1 small onion, chopped 1 medium green bell pepper, chopped ¼ cup tomato sauce ¾ cup chopped ripe tomatoes 8 pimento stuffed Spanish olives 1 teaspoon capers, drained 2 tablespoons black raisins 2 teaspoons salt 1 clove garlic, peeled ¼ teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon vinegar 1 pound potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 1. Wash hen pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. In a heavy pot, kettle or Dutch oven, stir-fry the salt pork on moderate heat until

rendered of its fat. Add the vegetable oil, achiote, and cook for about 2 minutes. Add the ají dulce, onion, green pepper, tomato sauce, ripe tomatoes, olives, capers, raisins and salt. Sauté for another 4 to 5 minutes. 3. In a mortar, crush together the garlic with the oregano and vinegar. Add to the pot. Stir to combine. 4. Add the hen pieces and cook, stirring constantly, for 10 minutes. Add the potato cubes and 3 cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low and simmer covered, for 30 minutes. Remove cover, and continue cooking a few minutes longer until stew has thickened somewhat. In the Rivera family we set out this dish by itself, accompanied only by crusty bread. WINE: Pomerol, a red that tends toward sturdiness and a velvety finish. Serve at cool room temperature. For a white:

Orvieto—but the dry Secco, not the sweet Abboccato. Orvieto is soft, full-bodied and slightly fruity. Serve chilled.

GALLINA AL HORNO (ROAST CORNISH HENS)

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’ve never seen Cornish game hens on a menu in Ponce. They’re probably served in the fancy joints in San Juan, but they are not native to the island. We have guinea hens for that. Cornish hens can be stewed in almost the same way, or, as in the recipe below, roasted. In the Rivera clan we came to love game hens and in our soirées we sometimes had to apportion two to a person. YIELD: 4 servings

4 Cornish game hens (about 1 pound each) 2 teaspoons dried thyme 4 medium Idaho or Maine potatoes, peeled and quartered 2 cloves garlic, peeled 6 whole black peppercorns 1 teaspoon oregano ½ cup olive oil 1 tablespoon vinegar Salt to taste 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Rinse Cornish hens inside and out under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 3. Sprinkle ½ teaspoon thyme in the cavity of each hen. Fold back the wings and tie legs securely with kitchen string. Place hens in a shallow greased roasting pan and surround with potatoes. Scatter the gizzards, necks and hearts around the hens. Reserve livers for some other use (unless you prefer livers that are charred or half burnt). 4. In a mortar, pound the garlic, peppercorns and oregano. 5. In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, vinegar, crushed garlic, peppercorns, oregano and salt. Pour over the hens and potatoes, turning so that both hens and potatoes are coated with the mixture. 6. Roast for 30 minutes. Turn potatoes and continue roasting for another 30 minutes, basting frequently, until hens are fork-tender and potatoes are golden brown. WINE: Meursault is an elegant white wine with a lingering aftertaste. It is distinctive and not cheap. Serve chilled.

Otherwise, go for a less expensive white Burgundy or even a light and fruity Bardolino, lightly chilled.

PAVO RELLENO A LA CRIOLLA (STUFFED ROAST TURKEY)

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he Thanksgiving Day bird. We serve it with rice and pigeon peas, and green plantains. It’s more highly seasoned than its North American counterpart and thus, in my opinion, more flavorful. YIELD: 6 to 7 servings

1 8½ pound dressed-weight turkey 5 cloves garlic, peeled 6 whole black peppercorns 1 tablespoon dried oregano 4 teaspoons salt 1 cup olive oil 4 tablespoons paprika ¼ cup vinegar 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 ½ pounds lean ground beef ½ cup sofrito (see page 9) ½ cup pimento stuffed Spanish olives 4 tablespoons capers, drained ½ cup tomato sauce 1. Rinse and wash turkey, inside and out, and wipe dry. Do the same with the heart, liver and gizzard, and then chop innards coarsely. This will be combined with the ground beef when preparing the stuffing. 2. Pound together the garlic, peppercorns, oregano and 3 teaspoons salt in a mortar. Add ½ cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons paprika, vinegar and combine. Rub the turkey with this seasoning inside and out—what my mother calls “adobar el pavo” (seasoning the beast). This is done a day ahead (the turkey should be left overnight, in a covered pot, in the refrigerator). This will allow it to absorb the flavors. 3. Heat vegetable oil in a frying pan or kettle. Add the ground beef and cook over high heat, stirring frequently, until the meat loses its color. Reduce heat to mediumlow and stir in the sofrito, olives, capers, tomato sauce and remaining teaspoon salt. Cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, to complete the stuffing. 4. Remove from heat and let cool. Stuff the turkey loosely about ¾ full. Truss the turkey

(sew or skewer together the neck and bind the legs). 5. Place turkey in a roasting pan breast side down. To ensure a golden brown exterior combine the remaining 2 tablespoons paprika with the remaining olive oil in a small bowl. Brush the entire turkey with this mixture and roast in a slow to moderate oven (325°F.) for 3½ hours. To brown bird, raise temperature to 350°F during the last 25 minutes of cooking. This is an excellent way of cooking if in doubt as to tenderness of turkey. Some people prefer covering the turkey with aluminum foil while roasting, and removing this during last 20 to 30 minutes of cooking time to brown the skin. I find that frequent basting during cooking gets the same result. Baking theories abound. There is the old traditionalist view that allows 1½ hours for the first pound and then 25 minutes per pound up to 7 pounds and 20 minutes per pound after that. Thus, a 5-pound bird would take 3 hours and 10 minutes, a 7 pounder would take 4 hours and 10 minutes, and a 10 pound bird 5 hours and 10 minutes. But in my view, there’s no set rule. Some birds take more time to roast, some less. In the Rivera family we go by general common sense: figure a 7 to 8 pounder takes 3½ to 4 hours to cook; a 10 pounder maybe 4½ hours, and a 12-pound turkey maybe 5 to 5¼ hours. Rule of thumb: turkey is done when drumstick and thigh move easily. 6. For gravy: remove turkey from roasting pan and keep warm. Drain drippings from roasting pan into a sauce pan. Skim off the fat but retain ¼ cup of the drippings. Add 2 cups water or ½ cup dry white wine and 1¼ cups water to pan drippings. Bring to a boil over high heat while stirring in the ¼ cup fat. Lower heat and thicken slightly with a little cornstarch and water combined. If you want to reduce the grease content, mix 3 teaspoons of cornstarch with 3 tablespoons of water. Add this to the strained pan drippings and heat, thereby omitting the remaining fat content. NOTE: The stuffing included in the above recipe is a basic no-frills stuffing, quite simple to prepare. For those of us who

want something a little more involved, we offer another delicious alternative on the next page. It has more ingredients and requires additional cooking time. As noted, the turkey should be stuffed loosely. This is to allow for expansion. WINE: Valpolicella, a light and fragrant red from Veneto. Serve lightly chilled or at room temperature. I personally prefer

a more full-bodied red such as a Zinfandel or a Rioja. Since this type of bird is often cooked for a special occasion, it may call for a special white. In that case, a Puligny-Montrachet may be appropriate. This is a big white Burgundy with a full and flowery bouquet. It’ll cost you, but it’s worth it. Serve chilled.

RELLENO PARA PAVO (TURKEY STUFFING) YIELD: about 10 Cups

1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 pounds lean ground beef or 1½ pounds bulk pork sausage (for a spicier variation, Spanish chorizo can be used), coarsely chopped 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 1 pound chopped mushrooms 1 medium apple, peeled and chopped Salt and ground black pepper to taste Poultry seasoning to taste (optional) 1 cup seeded raisins, soaked in ½ cup warm water for 10 minutes 1 cup walnuts, chopped 8 cups bread crumbs ½ cup white Puerto Rican rum ½ cup chicken bouillon or broth 1. In a large skillet or kettle, heat vegetable oil and cook meat, stirring frequently, until it loses its red color. If using sausage, it should be cooked until browned. Drain but reserve fat. 2. Add onions, mushrooms and apple. Season to taste with salt, pepper and poultry seasoning (if using), and sauté until apples are slightly softened. It may be necessary to add some of the reserve fat to keep mixture from sticking. Add drained raisins, walnuts and bread crumbs. Cook for about 3 minutes. Stir in white rum, chicken bouillon or broth and sauté for about 5 minutes more. 3. Remove from heat. When cool, stuff turkey about ¾ full, and follow roasting procedure. NOTE: Any extra stuffing can be placed in a covered glass casserole and baked along with the turkey for the last 45

minutes of cooking. Or it can be saved for later use and heated up with the leftovers. (I recommend baking at 350°F for 30 minutes).

PAVO EN VINO DE JEREZ (TURKEY COOKED IN SHERRY)

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ooking with wine is not ubiquitous to cooking on the island. Maybe among the upper crust of San Juan society, this might be a given. Common folk, if they use spirits at all in their cuisine, go for beer or rum. In our family, cooking with wine has become a norm, as in the recipe given below. I’m not a partisan of turkey, but when it’s simmered in sherry, it’s sheer heaven. YIELD: 5 servings

1 6-pound turkey, cut into serving pieces 3½ cups sweet sherry (Oloroso or Cream Sherry) 4 ounces (8 tablespoons) butter or margarine 1 pound baby white onions, peeled 1 can (28 ounces) plum tomatoes, with liquid 2 bay leaves 5 teaspoons salt 8 to 10 pimento stuffed olives 1. You can buy 6 pounds of turkey pieces individually or have a butcher cut up a whole turkey, or cut it yourself. Rinse pieces in cold running water and wipe dry. Arrange in a glass casserole or baking dish and add the sherry. Cover and refrigerate overnight. 2. Remove turkey pieces from dish. Reserve the sherry marinade. 3. In a large pot, kettle or Dutch oven, heat 2 ounces of the butter (4 tablespoons), add turkey and cook until lightly golden on high heat about 4 minutes per side. Lower heat to moderate, add white onions, canned tomatoes plus liquid, bay leaves, 2 remaining ounces of butter, salt and sherry marinade. Cover and cook over low heat for 30 minutes. Uncover and continue cooking for 30 minutes more. Add the olives. Raise heat to moderate and continue cooking, uncovered, for another hour. WINE: Dry sherry, Fino or Manzanilla. Chilled.

PATO CON HABICHUELAS BLANCAS (DUCK WITH WHITE BEANS)

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his time it’s duck with beans. Interesting combination. Roasting is the best way to rid duck of all its grease. The second best way is skimming the fat content while the bird is being simmered—which is the way we prepare it in the recipe given below. YIELD: 6 servings

2 4½-pound ducks, quartered, with giblets (this should include the bones, gizzards, necks, hearts and trimmings but not the skin) 1 pound white beans 1 medium onion, peeled and sliced in half 2 medium carrots, peeled 1 bay leaf ½ teaspoon dried thyme 1 tablespoon salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 8 cups water 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely diced 1. Rinse beans in cold running water, and soak overnight in a large pot with water to cover or use quick soaking method: boil beans for 2 minutes then let sit for an hour. 2. The skin must be removed from the ducks. You can do this yourself or have a butcher do it. If you do it yourself, just remove the skin, cutting the membrane as you go with a sharp boning knife. Discard the skin, or save it for later use in making a broth. 3. Place the ducks in a large pot, kettle or Dutch oven. Add the beans (drained) and all the remaining ingredients, except for the cilantro and garlic. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce flame and simmer, uncovered, for 1 hour and 20 minutes. Skim off any of the fat that rises to the top during the first 45 minutes of cooking. 4. Using a slotted spoon or spatula, transfer the ducks and trimmings, onions and carrots to a large dish or tray. Let cool. Cut the gizzards and hearts into ¼-inch pieces. 5. Using a boning knife, remove the meat from the bones, and chop the onions and carrots. Discard bones, and put everything else back into the pot. Add the cilantro and garlic. Bring to a boil and simmer for about 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. This dish, as in asopao, should have a soupy consistency and be served in bowls or

soup plates. It is more of a thick stew than anything else. WINE: Chenin Blanc, chilled. The California variety produces a richer and more fruity wine than that made in France’s

Loire Valley. If you prefer something fancier, then a Beaune (pronounced “Bone”). It is among the lightest of the Burgundy reds. Serve at room temperature.

CODORNIZ EN ESCABECHE (PICKLED QUAIL)

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uails, like guinea hens, have a full taste that takes getting use to. I don’t know if quails can be found on the island. This is from a recipe that somehow found its way into our family Nuyorican treasury. Quails can be obtained from the local butcher or any poultry market. YIELD: 4 servings

8 quails ½ cup olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 2 cloves garlic, crushed ¼ teaspoon dried thyme ½ teaspoon fresh cilantro leaves, chopped 6 black peppercorns, crushed ½ cup red wine vinegar 2 cups beef bouillon 3 bay leaves Salt to taste 1. Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed pot, Dutch oven or kettle. Add onion, garlic, thyme, cilantro and peppercorns, and sauté over moderate heat for about 5 minutes. 2. Add whole quails and brown about 5 minutes on one side. Turn and cook another 5 minutes on the other side. 3. Add vinegar, beef bouillon, bay leaves and salt. Cover and simmer on low heat for 45 minutes or until quails are tender. WINE: Margaux, the lightest of the red wines of Bordeaux. Its subtle flavor blends particularly well with game birds.

Serve at room temperature. If the pocketbook says ouch! then a California Pinot Noir.

BEEF (PLUS A COUPLE OF RABBITS)

Nuyorican cuisine has traditionally been heavy on meat dishes.

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t one time, we in the Rivera tribe were inveterate meat eaters. There was a time, years back, when the men in our family would partake of a breakfast consisting of big steaks, eggs and fries. And this would be repeated for lunch and dinner. You’d think we hailed from Argentina rather than Ponce.

These days our beef consumption is relegated to maybe once a week. This, in part, has to do with changing health norms. Now it’s leaner cuts and less fat content. Some in my family would say that’s a shame since it’s the fat that gives the flavor. Nuyorican cuisine has traditionally been heavy on meat dishes. Back on the block a steak sandwich is still considered, by many, as the essential for lunch. Our consumption may have diminished but not our appreciation. Despite the hard rap beef may have gotten in the past few years, there’s still some out there who consider a good cut of beef, broiled, baked or sautèed to perfection, as the quintessential culinary experience.

PICADILLO (GROUND MEAT STEW)

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his is the specialty of my cousin, Yvonne. Picadillo is one of those words for which there is no definitive translation. It can have different meanings depending on who’s preparing the dish. A literal translation would be “little bite,” or “little cut.” The reference is to bite-size pieces of beef, though Nuyoricans traditionally use ground meat. This dish is popular not only in the Caribbean but in Latin America as well, though south of the border it may be known by other names. It’s usually served over white rice. The recipe calls for ground round, but ground chuck or even ground turkey can be substituted. YIELD: 4 servings

4 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound ground round (sirloin) 1 large onion, peeled and chopped 1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded and coarsely chopped 3 medium Maine or Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce Salt and ground black pepper to taste 2 teaspoons sofrito (see page 9) 10 pimento stuffed olives 1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet or kettle. Add beef and cook on high heat until meat loses its red color. Drain excess pan drippings. 2. Reduce heat to medium, add onion and bell pepper and sauté until onion is transparent and meat is brown (about 3 minutes). Remove from heat and set aside. 3. In a separate skillet or frying pan, heat remaining olive oil and stir-fry potato cubes until golden (about 5 to 7 minutes). Remove potatoes and drain on paper towels. 4. Return beef to stove and, over low heat, add tomato sauce, salt, pepper, sofrito, potatoes and olives. Stir to combine. Cover, and simmer for 10 minutes. WINE: Demestica, a red wine made by the Achaia Clauss of Greece. Dry and harmonious; serve at room temperature.

BIFTEC ESTOFADO (SMOTHERED STEAK)

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his is a simple, no-frills way to prepare beefsteak. It calls for traditional spices and onions and not much else. This is not stewed beef. The process calls for the steaming of the meat as it cooks in the pot. A good cut of beef is called for in this preparation (we use sirloin or top round). We would not recommend boneless chuck. The usual accompaniment to the beef chunks is the ubiquitous rice or boiled potatoes. YIELD: 4 servings

2 pounds beef sirloin or round steak, trimmed of all fat and cut into 1-inch chunks Salt and ground black pepper to taste ½ medium green bell pepper, seeded, cored and chopped 2 ají dulce (sweet chili peppers), chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced Dash of sage Juice of ½ lemon or lime ¼ cup vegetable oil 1 cup water 1 tablespoon sofrito (see page 9) 1 medium onion, peeled and sliced 1. Wash meat and pat dry with paper towels. Place meat in a bowl, sprinkle with salt and pepper, add bell pepper, sweet chili, garlic and sage. Mix well and sprinkle with lemon juice. Cover and marinate for 15 to 20 minutes. 2. Heat oil on medium flame in a large skillet or heavy frying pan and sear meat on both sides. Add marinade ingredients, water, sofrito and onion slices. Cover, reduce heat to low and cook for 45 minutes or until meat is tender. NOTE: If desired, the onion slices can be stir-fried in a little oil and arranged over the beef when it’s done. It works either

way. WINE: Bully Hill Red. One of the finest blends to come out of New York state. Soft, mellow, dry, with a fine aroma.

BIFTEC AL HORNO (LONDON BROIL)

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es, we have London broil. Our version of it, anyway. A dumb query: why is it called London broil? Sure, probably a Londoner got there first. But, I wonder? Why not Brooklyn broil? or Kuala Lumpur broil? or Tokyo broil? It’s all semantics. Our version includes good old Puerto Rican rum, the best in the world (with deference to my friends in Jamaica and other rum producing islands). For the teetotalers among us, not to worry. The liquor content evaporates in the cooking. It is imperative that dark rum be used. White rum just doesn’t impart the same flavor. YIELD: 4 to 5 servings

3 pounds boneless round cut about 2-inch thick Olive oil ½ cup dijon mustard (hot spicy mustard may be substituted if you like a little zing) 4 ounces dark rum 1 tablespoon ground black pepper 1. Wash meat and pat dry with paper towels. Pierce on both sides with the tines of a fork. Place in a shallow pan or pot. Brush on both sides with olive oil. 2. In a small bowl, mix the mustard, rum and pepper. Brush meat on both sides with this mixture. 3. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 2 hours or, preferably, overnight. Turn meat over at least twice during this time. 4. Broil 15 minutes to a side (rare) in a preheated oven. For medium to well done, make it 20 to 25 minutes, or longer if you really like it cooked (like my father did). 5. Slice in thin slices across the grain, and serve. WINE: This is a tricky match-up due to the marinade and its mustard base. I would say go with a good red Bordeaux at

cool room temperature. Again, it’s all relative. Depending upon the spiciness of the dish, some would prefer beer.

BIFTEC CON GARBANZOS (BEEFSTEAK WITH CHICKPEAS)

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hickpeas are a common staple in our cooking. It amazes me how we never got the idea of mashing the chickpeas and creating something akin to hummus—but that’s another story. In the following recipe the thickener used is cornstarch. I suppose flour could be used, though we never tried it that way. Fillet of beef is recommended. However, boneless sirloin or round steak can be substituted; the cooking time will be longer though: 15 to 20 minutes for simmering the meat or until tender. YIELD: 4 to 5 servings

1 pound fillet of beef, julienned 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced Salt and black ground pepper to taste 1 teaspoon achiote (see page 10) ¼ cup olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and sliced in thin rounds 1 teaspoon paprika 1 16-ounce can chickpeas 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon cornstarch 1 tablespoon water 1. Sprinkle the beef with garlic, salt, pepper and achiote, and mix until meat is coated. 2. Heat the oil in a large skillet or frying pan and sauté the meat over high heat for approximately 3 minutes. 3. Reduce heat to medium, add the onion, paprika, chickpeas (with their liquid) and bay leaf. Stir to blend. 4. Add 1 tablespoon water mixed with cornstarch and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens (about 3 minutes). Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 3 minutes more. WINE: Petite Sirah is the California variation of the Petite Syrah grape. Syrah is used in the Rhône Valley of France to

make Hermitage and other fine wines. The California version is unique in that it can produce a red wine that may be fruity and light or robust and sturdy. It all depends on the strength of the wine. Serve at room temperature.

PIÑON (BEEF/PLANTAIN CASSEROLE)

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iñon is a Taíno Indian word, so I’m told by no greater authority than my cousin, Elly. The recipe calls for ripe plantains, also known as yellow plantains since that’s the color they acquire during the ripening process. I recommend using canned beans, because it’s easier and because my mother used canned kidney beans. If you insist on starting from dried beans, just remember you have to start them soaking the night before. Refer to the basic bean recipe on page 241. YIELD: 6 servings

1 pound lean ground beef 2 cloves garlic, peeled ½ teaspoon dried oregano 6 whole black peppercorns 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon olive oil ½ teaspoon white vinegar 3 ripe yellow plantains ½ cup vegetable oil 1 16-ounce can kidney beans, drained 2 eggs, lightly beaten 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Put garlic cloves, oregano, peppercorns and salt in a mortar. Pound until crushed. Add olive oil and vinegar, and mix thoroughly. 3. Place meat in a bowl and combine with seasoning. 4. Stir-fry the beef in a very hot skillet (no oil is necessary) until meat loses its red color. Set aside. 5. Peel the plantains and cut at an angle into ½-inch slices. In a frying pan, heat vegetable oil and fry plantains over moderate heat until golden. 6. Grease a 2-quart casserole and arrange half of the plantains on the bottom. Then top with the beef. Layer the beans over the meat. Top with the remaining plantains. Pour the beaten eggs over the layers. 7. Bake, uncovered, for 1 hour.

WINE: A California Pinot Noir. For years it was alleged that the Californian Pinots fell far short of their French cousins.

This may still be true, but the California product has improved immensely as of late. Go for the top of the line, though. Serve at room temperature.

CARNE GUISADA (BEEF STEW)

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eef stew in criollo cooking has countless variants. I’ve seen recipes in which raisins and sweet peas, carrots and even squash have been added. Cousin Yvonne boils the meat first then adds the remaining ingredients. Some people add beef bones to the stew. Others cook the potatoes separately. Whichever method is used, the results are uniformly good. YIELD: 5 servings

2 pounds beef round steak, trimmed and cut into 1-inch chunks ¼ cup vegetable oil 1 medium onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 medium green bell pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped ½ teaspoon dried oregano 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1 teaspoon salt ½ cup tomato sauce 1 tablespoon achiote (see page 10) 10 to 12 pimento stuffed olives 1 tablespoon capers 1 bay leaf 1 pound Maine or Idaho potatoes, peeled and cubed. 1. Wash meat and pat dry with paper towels. 2. In a Dutch oven or heavy kettle, heat the oil, add beef chunks, onion, bell pepper, oregano, garlic and stir-fry over moderate heat until meat is brown. 3. Add salt, tomato sauce, achiote, olives, capers and bay leaf. Mix and cook for 5 minutes. 4. Add ½ cup water, bring to a rapid boil, cover and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes. 5. Add potatoes, stir to combine, and bring to a rapid boil. Cover and simmer for another 30 minutes. 6. Serve over white or yellow rice.

WINE: Moulin-à-vent. The most full-bodied and heartiest of the Beaujolais. Serve at room temperature or even lightly

chilled.

BIFTEC EMPANADO (BREADED BEEFSTEAK)

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readed steaks are a popular staple in Latino takeout places. They are served as an entrée with french fries, or as a sandwich in a roll or Italian bread. One can bread the meat with plain bread crumbs or cracker crumbs. I know of one individual who mixes cracker crumbs with corn flakes. The rule of thumb is that the meat should be cut thin. Some people pound it to a thinness of scaloppine. In my family we prefer a thicker biftec empanado. Also, for those who are shy of beef, chicken breasts or cutlets can be substituted. YIELD: 4 servings

4 club steaks (8 ounces per steak, about ½-inch thick) 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano 6 whole black peppercorns 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon white vinegar 2 eggs, lightly beaten 1 cup bread crumbs Vegetable oil for frying 1. Rinse meat under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Put garlic cloves, oregano, peppercorns and salt in a mortar. Pound with a pestle until crushed. Add olive oil and vinegar, and mix thoroughly. 3. Rub seasoning into the steaks. 4. Dip each slice in the eggs, then coat with bread crumbs, pressing crumbs into both sides with heel of hand. 5. Heat oil in a large skillet, frying pan or deep fryer and fry until golden brown (about 4 to 5 minutes depending upon thickness). Drain on absorbent paper towels. WINE: Dao, a dry and robust red from Portugal, and fairly inexpensive.

PASTELÓN DE CARNE DE RES (LAYERED MEAT PIE)

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pastelón is a meat pie whereas pasteles are meat patties. A pastelón can be in the form of a circular pie with a dough crust or layered as given below. This entree is similar to piñon in that it includes ripe plantains, but there is no bean layer. It has a cheese topping. We prefer grated cheddar, but mozzarella, Parmesan or Swiss can be used. YIELD: 4 to 5 servings

4 ripe yellow plantains 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 1 medium green bell pepper, chopped 1 pound ground sirloin Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 2 tablespoons sofrito (see page 149) 1 tablespoon manzanilla olives mixed with capers (called alcaparrado, and available in Spanish markets) 8 ounces grated cheddar cheese 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Peel the plantains, cut in half lengthwise, and slice into ½-inch strips. 3. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a frying pan or skillet and fry the plantain strips over moderate heat until golden (about 3 minutes). Set aside. 4. Wipe clean the frying pan, heat the remaining olive oil and sauté the onion and bell pepper until the onion is translucent. Remove from pan and set aside. 5. In the same pan (do not wipe clean), brown the sirloin over high heat, stirring constantly. 6. Reduce heat to medium. Add onion, bell pepper and remaining ingredients, except for the cheddar. Stir to combine and cook for 5 minutes. 7. Grease a shallow baking dish and layer as follows: ½ of plantains, ½ of meat filling, ½ of plantains, ½ of meat filling. Sprinkle with grated cheese. 8. Bake, uncovered, for ½ hour. 9. Remove from oven, let stand 5 to 8 minutes. Cut into wedges and serve with

crusty bread. WINE: Barbera, the Italian not the California version. Dry, warm and hearty. Serve at room temperature.

CARNE DE POTE CON HABICHUELAS TIERNAS (CORNED BEEF WITH GREEN BEANS)

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orned beef again. This is a classic bachelor dinner that can be prepared in 20 minutes or less. You can even impress a date with it. This dish was a favorite of ours when I was a kid since it’s so simple and filling. We love it over rice or noodles. YIELD: 4 servings

2 tablespoons butter or margarine 1 medium onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 tablespoon sofrito (see page 9) ½ cup tomato sauce (from a can or homemade, see page 188) 1 9-ounce package frozen whole or French style green beans 1 12-ounce can corned beef 1. Heat butter in a skillet or frying pan. Add onion and stir fry until onion is soft and translucent. Add sofrito and tomato sauce, and sauté for about 3 minutes. 2. Add frozen green beans. Cover and cook over moderate heat for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. 3. Uncover, add corned beef, stir to blend, and cook 5 minutes more. WINE: Baco Noir is a hybrid between a native New York grape and a French grape. The red varietal that results from it is

a soft, mellow wine that should be served at room temperature.

CARNE MECHADA (POT ROAST)

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ou can use the best cut of meat or the least expensive, eye of round or boneless chuck, to make a pot roast. Our pot roast, using a bottom round cut, has been in my family for generations. There are countless variations. To keep harmony in the Rivera family I present two methods: my mother’s and my Aunt Fanny’s. Both are delicious and simple to prepare. Basically, the meat is seasoned, lightly browned and simmered; that’s it. It is served garnished with potatoes (or another vegetable), with rice as an accompaniment. MOTHER’S YIELD: 4 to 5 servings

3 pounds bottom round beef, trimmed 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano 6 whole black peppercorns 1 teaspoon salt 2 sprigs cilantro ½ cup olive oil ¼ pound lean cured ham, washed and diced 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 medium green bell pepper, seeded and sliced into rounds about ¼-inch thick 1 medium onion, peeled and sliced into rings ½ cup water 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 6 small russet potatoes, peeled, washed and quartered 1. Rinse meat under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Put garlic cloves, oregano, peppercorns, salt and cilantro in a mortar, and pound until crushed. Add olive oil and mix. 3. With a knife, make small slits in various parts of the meat. Rub seasoning into the meat and stud the slits with pieces of diced ham. Set aside and let stand for 10 minutes. 4. In a Dutch oven or heavy kettle, heat the vegetable oil over moderate-high heat, add pot roast and brown lightly on all sides (about 5 minutes).

5. Add bell pepper, onion rings, water and tomato sauce. Bring to a rapid boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 1 hour or until fork-tender. 6. Add potatoes. Check liquid, adding ¼ cup water, if necessary. Cover and continue cooking for 20 minutes. 7. Remove roast from kettle. Slice meat and arrange on a heated serving platter surrounded by potatoes. Spoon on some pan juices; pass remainder in a small bowl or gravy boat.

AUNT FANNY’S YIELD: 4 to 5 servings

3 pounds bottom round beef, trimmed 2 cloves garlic, peeled ½ teaspoon oregano 6 whole black peppercorns 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon vinegar 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 1 bay leaf 6 small russet potatoes, peeled, washed and quartered 3 carrots, peeled and sliced into ½-inch rounds 1. Rinse meat under cold running water and pat dry. 2. Put garlic cloves, oregano, peppercorns and salt in a mortar, and pound until crushed. Add olive oil and vinegar. Mix thoroughly. 3. Pierce the meat, in various spots, with the tines of a fork. Rub seasoning into the meat. 4. In a Dutch oven or heavy kettle, heat the vegetable oil, add pot roast and brown lightly on all sides over moderate-high heat (about 5 minutes). 5. Add water to cover and tomato sauce. Bring to a rapid boil, cover and simmer on low heat for 1 hour or until fork-tender. 6. Remove meat from kettle and cut into slices about ½-inch thick. Return to pot, add bay leaf, potatoes and carrots. Cover and continue cooking for 20 minutes. 7. Arrange on a serving platter surrounded by potatoes and carrots. NOTE: If the pan juices have not thickened enough to your taste, blend in 1 tablespoon flour or cornstarch with 2

tablespoons water and stir until thickened; or you can boil the sauce, uncovered, until it reaches desired consistency. WINE: Gallo Hearty Burgundy. Okay, so there are those among you who may sneer at our lack of sophistication. Hey, if

you want to put out currency for Nuit-Saint-Georges, go right ahead. Or play it safe with a moderately priced Corbieres or Rioja.

BIFTEC RELLENO (STUFFED BEEFSTEAK)

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his is what Uncle Carlos would call a “fancy-Dan recipe.” In our family any meat that’s stuffed with a savory is considered haute cuisine. The recipe calls for sirloin but any good cut of meat can be used. Bear in mind that less tender cuts, such as chuck or round steak, should be marinated 1 to 2 hours at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator. The most legendary stuffed steak is what was known as “Carpetbag Steak” during the Gold Rush days in California—a thick cut of tenderloin stuffed with sautéed oysters. We don’t go quite that far. Ours is a simpler effort, but the idea is the same. So if you want to throw in the oysters too, go ahead (for approximately the last 4 minutes of the stuffing sauté). YIELD: 4 to 5 servings

2½ pounds boneless sirloin, cut 1½ inches thick, trimmed 6 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled ½ teaspoon oregano ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon paprika ½ cup olive oil 2 teaspoons vinegar ¼ cup butter or margarine 1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 4-ounce can sliced mushrooms, drained 8 pimento stuffed Spanish olives, sliced in half 1. Wash meat and dry with paper towels. 2. Place meat on a cutting board and put one hand on top of it. (See illustration). With a sharp boning knife, slice more than halfway through the steak to make a pocket. The pocket should be parallel to the board. Be careful to keep the knife blade equidistant between the cutting board and the palm of your hand. 3. Crush the peppercorns, garlic, oregano, salt and paprika in a mortar. Add the olive oil and vinegar. Mix thoroughly. 4. Marinate the steak in this mixture, ensuring that the pocket is seasoned as well, for at least an hour.

5. Meanwhile, melt butter in a small skillet over low heat. Sauté onion, mushrooms and olives for about 8 minutes. 6. Lightly place stuffing in the pocket formed by the cut. Close pocket by fastening meat together with wooden toothpicks. 7. Lightly grease a large frying pan or skillet. Cook steak over medium heat, 8 to 10 minutes per side for medium, turn once. 9. Remove toothpicks, slice thin and serve with rice and a salad. WINE: Torre Quarto (Four Towers) has a distinctive history. The wine is Italian in origin but the vineyard from which it

hails was founded by a Frenchman, the Duke de La Rochefoucauld in 1857. Supposedly, the duke fell in love with the scenery in Apulia, in the heel of Italy. And from this rich soil sprang up this hearty red wine which some folks consider a match for the best Burgundy has to offer.

STUFFING A BEEFSTEAK

BUTIFARRÓN (MEAT LOAF)

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here are as many meat loaf recipes as there are cooks, and they range from the renowned preparation found on the back of the old Quaker Oats box to meat loaf made with bulgur wheat and peaches. Like everyone else we have our own version, my mother’s. In the Rivera family it’s the best we ever tasted. YIELD: 6 to 7 servings

2 pounds lean ground beef 4 whole black peppercorns 1 clove garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon salt 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 medium green bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped 3 ají dulce (sweet chili peppers), seeded and chopped 1 egg, lightly beaten ½ cup milk ¼ cup tomato sauce 1 cup unsalted cracker crumbs 1. Place meat in a bowl. 2. Combine peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt in a mortar, and crush with a pestle. Add this to the beef and mix together. 3. Add the remaining ingredients in the order in which they are given. 4. Mix thoroughly and pack into a greased bread loaf pan. 5. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 1 hour or until well browned. WINE: To me, the lowly meat loaf is a regal dish worthy of a superior wine—Cabernet Sauvignon, the best red varietal to

come out of California. If you’re adventuresome, Chile also makes some good cabernet, some under the Concha Y Toro label.

ALBÓNDIGAS GUISADAS EN SALSA (MEATBALLS COOKED IN SAUCE)

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part from the ubiquitous spaghetti, we also serve meatballs with rice or, as I like it, with potatoes or bianda (root plants). In some recipes a lot of criollo items are added such as pimentos, Spanish olives, sweet chili peppers, cilantro, etc. Here, we keep it simple: stewed in tomato sauce. 1ST VERSION YIELD: 6 servings

1½ pounds lean ground beef 6 whole black peppercorns 1 clove garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon olive oil 2 teaspoons vinegar 1 cup bread or cracker crumbs 1 egg, lightly beaten ½ cup flour Vegetable oil for frying (about 1 cup) 2 tablespoons sofrito (see page 9) 1 cup tomato sauce 1. Put meat in a bowl. 2. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt. Blend in olive oil and vinegar. 3. Add spices to the meat, along with bread crumbs and beaten egg. Mix thoroughly. 4. Form mixture into meatballs. (Note: we like large meatballs. I mean, the size of Spauldings. If you’re more conservative in your tastes, you can make the meatballs spoonful size). 5. Coat balls with flour. 6. In a large skillet, heat vegetable oil, add meatballs and cook evenly over medium-high heat until brown (about 10 minutes). Cover, remove from heat and set

aside. 7. In a small saucepan, sauté the sofrito over high heat for 1 to 2 minutes. Lower heat, add tomato sauce and simmer, covered, about 5 minutes. 8. Return meatballs to stove. Add tomato sauce and cook over medium heat, covered, for 15 minutes.

2ND VERSION This is my quickie scaled-down version of the same dish. I whip this up when I’m too lazy to go the other route. YIELD: 4 servings

1 pound lean ground beef 1 cup bread or cracker crumbs 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped Salt and ground black pepper to taste Vegetable oil for frying 1 cup tomato sauce 2 tablespoons sofrito (see page 9) 1. In a bowl, mix beef, bread crumbs and seasonings. 2. Form into meatballs. 3. Fry in vegetable oil until brown on all sides. 4. Add tomato sauce and sofrito. Mix well. Cover and simmer 15 minutes. WINE:

Taylor California Cellars makes a good, fairly inexpensive Zinfandel that is my favorite for everyday consumption. Serve a bit cooler than room temperature (I usually give it 10 to 15 minutes in the fridge).

BIFTEC A LA CRIOLLA (STEAK CREOLE STYLE)

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his is similar to a quick stir-fry. Initially, this dish was prepared in our family using boneless sirloin or round steak, when times were good. During the lean intervals, it was chuck steak. Since both were cut very thin into strips, the cooking time was about the same. Then we discovered flank steak. Thinly sliced across the grain to help tenderize the meat, flank steak was great for this dish. In the cooking process, some folks omit the tomato and instead use tomato sauce. We prefer sautéeing everything together. I think my mother probably got the idea from watching some Chinese chef on TV. YIELD: 4 servings

1½ pounds flank steak, cut along the grain into strips about 1½ inches wide; then cut each strip across the grain into ¼-inch slices. 6 whole black peppercorns 1 clove garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons vinegar ¼ cup olive oil 1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 1 large onion, peeled and thinly sliced 1 4-ounce can sliced mushrooms, drained 1 large tomato, cored and cut into half moon shapes 1. Wash meat and pat dry with paper towels. 2. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt. Add vinegar and mix. 3. Place meat in a bowl. Add seasonings and blend. Cover and let stand in the refrigerator for 10 minutes. 4. In a large skillet or frying pan, heat olive oil. Add meat strips and quickly brown over medium-high heat. 5. Add remaining ingredients and stir-fry 4 to 5 minutes. 6. Serve over rice or vegetables. WINE: Marques de Riscal is my favored Rioja red. Soft and smooth, with a delicate finish. Serve at room temperature.

BIFTEC FLAMBÉ (STEAK FLAMBÉ)

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his is the type of thing that Uncle Phillip was famous for. It could explain some of his success with women. Uncle Phillip was a devotee of spectacle. Part of this explains the flambéing of food at table. A chafing dish or electric skillet can be used. It’s eyecatching and, done right, gives pizazz to the evening. YIELD: 4 servings

4 club steaks (8 ounces per steak), about ½-inch thick 1 cup beef broth 1 medium onion, thinly sliced 6 whole black peppercorns 1 clove garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons Spanish brandy or dark Puerto Rican rum 1. Wash meat and pat dry with paper towels. 2. In a small pan, heat 2 tablespoons of broth. Sauté onions, on medium heat, until tender (about 3 to 4 minutes). 3. Add the rest of the broth, but reserve 3 tablespoons. Lower heat, cover and simmer 10 minutes. 4. Meanwhile, in a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt. 5. Using heel of hand, press seasoning into both sides of club steaks. 6. Heat remaining 3 tablespoons broth in a large skillet. Sauté steaks, over medium-high heat, for about 3 minutes on each side (for rare steaks). 7. Lower heat, pour brandy or rum over the meat. Stand back, and touch a lighted match to the liquor. 8. Serve when flame goes out, with sautéed onions spooned over. NOTE: Some experts contend it’s a good idea to heat the liquor before lighting in the dish. Uncle Phillip would just pour

in the spirits and set it aflame. Use whatever way suits you. WINE: Côtes du Rhône is a region in the Rhône River valley of southeastern France that stretches from south of Lyon

and 120 miles down to Avignon. The resulting wines are robust, supple and elegant. Some Côtes du Rhône are quite economical, which is another plus.

CARNE CON TOMATE Y PAPAS (BEEF WITH TOMATOES AND POTATOES)

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his is a cross between carne mechada (pot roast) and carne guisada (beef stew). The initial preparation is similar to steak au poivre, where the seasonings are pressed into the meat, then it’s cooked. We finish it off by simmering the beef with vegetables. Sometimes I also add green beans, fresh or frozen, along with the potatoes. YIELD: 4 servings

1½ pound round steak, about ½-inch thick 6 whole black peppercorns 1 clove garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt 4 tablespoons flour ¼ cup olive oil 2 medium onions, peeled and finely chopped 2 large ripe tomatoes, cored and coarsely chopped ½ pound potatoes, peeled and quartered 2 cups water 1 tablespoon sofrito (see page 9) 1. Wash meat, pat dry with paper towels and cut into 4 pieces of equal size. 2. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt. 3. Rub the steak pieces with equal amounts of seasoning. Press down with your hand to help the seasoning into the meat. 4. Dust the meat with 1 tablespoon of the flour. 5. Heat olive oil in a kettle or Dutch oven. Brown steak, over medium heat, on both sides. Remove from pot and keep warm. 6. Add remaining flour to the kettle. Cook, over low heat, stirring constantly until lightly brown (do not burn). 7. Add onion and cook about 3 minutes. 8. Add tomatoes, potatoes, water and sofrito. Stir to combine. 9. Add meat. Cover and simmer for 1 hour.

WINE: I have a dear friend, Mary-Ellen, whose main beverage with food is Diet Pepsi. When she told me that she

sampled Lafite Mouton-Cadet at a dinner party, and liked it, I was astounded. For its price, this is good stuff. It may not be on a par with Chateau Lafite, but as an all around dinner wine, it’s not bad.

HAMBURGESA CRIOLLO (CREOLE BURGERS)

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ong before the advent of McDonald’s, burgers served on the island came replete with onions, lettuce and tomatoes. And on plain rolls, not the usual hamburger bun. Today, as in the mainland, wherever you go it’s the trendy fast food abomination. Thank the gods that in my tribe we still make burgers the old fashioned way—large and spicy. YIELD: 4 servings

1 pound lean ground beef 6 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled ¼ teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon vinegar 1 tablespoon butter or margarine 1. Put meat in a bowl. 2. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt. Blend in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and vinegar. 3. Add spices to the meat and mix thoroughly. 4. Shape into 4 hamburger patties. 5. Heat remaining olive oil and butter in a heavy skillet. Add patties and cook over medium-high heat, about 3 minutes per side for rare and 5 minutes per side for medium rare. 6. Serve on a plain roll or toasted English muffin topped with tomato slices and lettuce. What we kids did (which used to drive my mother nuts) was splatter gobs of mayonnaise on the bun rather than use ketchup or mustard. To each his own. WINE: For the lowly burger (as with the meat loaf), I suggest the best red you can afford. For me it’d be a top of the line

Zinfandel made by Ridge Vineyards or Storybook Mountain.

ROPA VIEJA (SHREDDED BEEF STEW)

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his dish is Cuban in origin, yet it is a favorite among Boriquas (native islanders) both here and on the island. Ropa vieja means “old clothes.” It is thought that this is a reference to the shredding of the beef just prior to final stewing. Something like old rags being torn up. Good simile. Our version of the dish is simple. There are some recipes where assorted vegetables (pumpkin, corn, green peas, etc.) are boiled along with the meat during the first step; the vegetables are then returned to the sauce along with the shredded beef during final cooking. It’s normally served with rice, potatoes or ripe plantains. YIELD: 6 servings

3 pounds brisket of beef, trimmed 1 large onion, peeled, cut in half, and finely sliced ½ green bell pepper, seeded 3 sweet chili peppers, seeded ½ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1 bay leaf ½ cup tomato sauce (from a can or home-made, see page 188) ¼ cup dry red wine 1. Wash meat and pat dry. 2. Place meat in a Dutch oven or heavy skillet with water to cover. Add ½ of onion, green bell pepper, sweet chili peppers and salt. 3. Bring to a roiling boil. Cover and simmer on low flame for about 1 hour or until meat is almost tender. 4. Remove meat from kettle. Let cool. 5. Strain liquid and reserve for another use such as stock for soups, stews, rice, etc. 6. Shred the meat into fine strips. This can be done with the hands or with a fork. Set aside. 7. Heat olive oil in the kettle or Dutch oven. Add remaining onion half (finely sliced), garlic and bay leaf. Sauté until onion is translucent. Add tomato sauce and cook on low heat for about 10 minutes.

8. Add shredded beef plus wine. Mix well. Cover and cook for another 20 minutes. WINE: Here I say go with a Chianti Classico. You can identify this wine by the black rooster seal on the bottle. Serve at

room temperature or lightly chilled.

LENGUA GUISADA (STEWED TONGUE) YIELD: 8 servings

4 pounds fresh beef tongue 1 teaspoon salt ½ cup olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 small green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced 2 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped 1 teaspoon dried oregano 6 fresh cilantro leaves, washed and chopped 2 bay leaves 1 pound Maine or Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into small pieces 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Wash tongue under cold running water. Drain and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Place in a deep pot with water to cover tongue by 1 inch. 3. Add salt and bring to a roiling boil. Cover partially, lower heat and simmer for 1 hour. 4. Drain and cool. Pull off skin that covers tongue. Cut off excess fat and gristle and remove all small bones at thick end. 5. Place tongue in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven. Heat oil and brown tongue lightly. 6. Add onion, garlic, ají dulce, oregano, cilantro, bay leaves, potatoes, tomato sauce and 5 cups water. Adjust seasoning by adding salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a quick boil, cover and simmer on low heat until tongue is fork-tender. Depending on the age and tenderness of the tongue, cooking time may vary widely, anywhere between 45 minutes and 1½ hours. Just keep testing with a fork. 7. Remove tongue to a serving platter and keep warm. Boil sauce in kettle, uncovered, until thickened. Discard bay leaves. 8. Cut tongue into thin slices and serve with potatoes and sauce. Serve with rice.

WINE: For a red, Cabernet Sauvignon. For a white, Steinberger (Shtein-bairg-er), a spicy white wine from the German

Rheingau. Serve the Steinberger chilled.

RIÑÓNES GUISADOS (KIDNEY STEW)

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ou’re probably saying to yourself, why should I try this recipe? Even the name sounds unappetizing. But we’re not talking about a transplant here. We’re talking about a superb delicacy and it can come from beef, lamb, pork or veal. In flavor and consistency, kidney is similar to liver. But don’t let that put you off; it’s firstrate with rice or plantains. YIELD: 6 servings

2 pounds fresh calf’s kidneys 3 tablespoons white vinegar 1 tablespoon olive oil ¼ pound lean cured ham 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 small green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced 2 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped 1 teaspoon dried oregano 6 fresh cilantro leaves, washed and chopped 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 2 teaspoons alcaparrado, drained (see glossary) 1 bay leaf 1 pound Maine or Idaho potatoes, peeled and quartered Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Wash kidneys under cold running water. Drain and place in a large pot with 1 quart (4 cups) water and add vinegar. Let soak for 1 hour. 2. Drain. Trim off all tubules and excess fat. Cut in half and then into ½-inch cubes. 3. Heat oil in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven. Add ham and brown quickly over moderate-high heat. 4. Add onion, pepper, garlic, ají dulce, oregano and cilantro. Sauté over low heat until tender (7 to 10 minutes). 5. Stir in kidneys, tomato sauce, alcaparrado, bay leaf, potatoes and 3 cups of

water. Adjust seasoning by adding salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer over low heat for 1 hour or until kidney pieces are fork-tender. 6. If a thicker sauce is desired, uncover and cook over moderate heat until sauce thickens. WINE: One of the most full-flavored red Bordeaux is Saint-Estéphe (San-te-stef), from one of the four leading communes

in the Médoc region. The wine matures fairly rapidly and is quite good. Serve at room temperature.

AREPAS DE SESO (BRAIN PATTIES)

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alf’s brains have long been a delicacy on fancy French menus. Called “cervelles,” they’re prepared in the classic style with butter that has been heated until it’s dark brown and mixed with capers and lemon juice. Our cuisine also makes use of brains. We prepare them breaded with cracker or bread crumbs or, as we have it here, in the form of patties. Brains have a taste all their own; hard to describe, bland yet custard-like. This taste comes through especially when they’re sautéed in butter. With patties, the light taste is complemented by a bread and egg batter. YIELD: 8 servings

3 whole fresh calf’s brains, about 2½ to 3 pounds 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons white vinegar 1 medium onion, peeled and minced 1 tablespoon salt 1 bay leaf ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon butter 1 large onion, finely chopped 2 eggs, well beaten ¾ cup bread crumbs ½ cup olive oil Lemon wedges 1. Wash brains in cold water. Place in a saucepan with 4 cups water and 1 teaspoon salt. Let soak for 2 hours. 2. Drain and rinse thoroughly in cold running water. Place in a pot or kettle with 3 cups water, vinegar, onion, salt and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low heat for 10 minutes. 3. Drain and rinse in cold water. Drain again and remove outer membranes, including the ones between the lobes. Coarsely chop the brains and place in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. 4. Heat 1 tablespoon butter in a large frying pan or skillet. Add onion and sauté

over moderate heat until golden. 5. Add the brains, eggs and bread crumbs. Stir to make a thick batter. 6. Heat oil and remaining ½ cup butter in another skillet. Drop the batter by spoonfuls into the skillet and fry until golden brown on one side. Turn carefully and brown on the other side. 7. Drain on paper towels and serve with lemon wedges. Serve with a salad and/or boiled bananas (guineos). WINE: The Kettmeir winery in the Alto Adige or South Tyrol region of northern Italy produces a delicate and dry white

wine with a fresh taste called, appropriately, Pinot Blanc (Pee-no Blawn). Serve chilled.

CORAZONES CON HARINA (BRAISED HEARTS)

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o quote the old song, you gotta have lots and lots of … Heart has a firm taste and texture. Beef heart is the meatiest and toughest, and thus needs more cooking time. Lamb, pork and calf are more delicate in flavor and more tender. Not a bad deal, considering that heart is a good buy at the butcher shop. Our recipe calls for lamb hearts, which can be purchased fresh or frozen. If using fresh hearts, use within 24 hours, if possible. Keep frozen hearts in freezer until time to use. Thaw according to label directions. YIELD: 4 servings

4 lamb hearts, totalling 1 to 1½ pounds 1 cup flour Salt and ground black pepper to taste ½ teaspoon dried oregano ⅛ teaspoon dried thyme 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 medium onions, peeled and sliced 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley 1. Cut away all tubules, fibers and sinews from top and inside of hearts. Rinse in cold running water, drain and pat dry. 2. Season flour with salt, pepper, oregano and thyme. Dredge hearts in seasoned flour and coat thoroughly. 3. Heat oil in a large skillet or frying pan. Add onions and hearts and sauté until hearts are browned. 4. Add ½ cup water and bring to a boil. Cover skillet and simmer on low heat for 2 hours or until fork-tender, adding more water if necessary. 5. Sprinkle with parsley and serve over rice with a salad on the side. WINE: Tavel Rosé or a Gamay.

CONEJOS FRITO (FRIED RABBIT)

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here are some animals to whom we share a deep sentimental attachment. Horses come to mind, deer and, of course, rabbits. This attachment defies logic. As children we are taught to cherish these furry little critters. I can hear my friends exclaim: How can you eat those things? Simple. They’re tasty. You won’t find rabbit meat at the local supermarket. You may have to order it from your butcher, or buy it at the poultry market. The rabbit will come skinned and, most likely, cut into serving pieces. It’s not more difficult to prepare than chicken. YIELD: 4 servings

1 2-pound rabbit, dressed weight, cut into serving pieces 1 lemon, cut in half 6 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled ½ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon white vinegar Vegetable oil for deep frying (6 to 8 cups) 1. Wash rabbit pieces under cold running water and pat dry. Place rabbit in a bowl and squeeze lemon over it. Set aside for 5 minutes, then drain. 2. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic and salt. Mix in olive oil and vinegar. 3. Rub rabbit pieces with seasoning, place in a covered bowl and store overnight in refrigerator. 4. The following day, heat oil in a large skillet or deep-fryer until very hot (375°F). Add rabbit pieces one at a time and cook until crisp and brown (about 4 to 5 minutes in the skillet, or 2 to 4 minutes in a deep-fryer). 5. Drain on absorbent paper towels and serve with rice and white kidney beans (see page 243). WINE: Dézaley (Day-za-lay) is regarded as Switzerland’s best white wine. Golden in color, dry and robust. Serve chilled.

CONEJO EN FRICASÉ (RABBIT FRICASSÉE) YIELD: 6 servings

1 rabbit, 2½ to 3 pounds, cut into serving pieces 1 lemon, cut in half ½ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced ½ cup olive oil 3 tablespoons sofrito (see page 9) ½ pound lean cured ham 10 pimento stuffed Spanish olives 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 2 bay leaves 1 cup dry red wine 1 6½-ounce jar pimentos, drained and cut into ¼-inch strips 2 pounds Maine or Idaho potatoes, peeled and cubed. 1. Wash rabbit pieces under cold running water and pat dry. Place rabbit in a bowl and squeeze lemon over it. Set aside for 5 minutes, and drain. 2. Place rabbit pieces in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven and add salt, pepper, garlic and olive oil. 3. Sauté over moderate heat for 5 minutes 4. Add sofrito, ham, olives, tomato sauce, bay leaf and ¼ cup warm water. 5. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low heat, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes. 6. Add wine, pimentos, potatoes plus another ¼ cup water. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer over moderate heat until sauce has thickened and meat is tender (about 20 minutes). 7. Remove bay leaves and serve with boiled green bananas (see page 263). WINE: Red Burgundy or, if preferred, an Alsatian Riesling.

CASEROLA DE MACARRONES Y CARNE DE RES (MACARONI AND BEEF CASSEROLE)

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hearty casserole that can be made with almost any pasta—although we prefer macaroni. Some claim that it goes great with a thick, noodle type pasta such as fettuccine. I guess you can scarf up whatever’s in the cupboard and go to town with it. If you don’t have canned tomatoes, you can try regular tomato sauce (see page 188). But be aware that cooking time to thicken the sauce may vary, which means you may have to simmer the sauce, stirring occasionally, for a longer time period. This stuff is great with hot crusty bread and lots of beer (if you want to skip the wine). YIELD: 6 servings

¼ cup olive oil plus 2 tablespoons 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1 pound ground beef 1 28-ounce can tomatoes in thick tomato puree 1 teaspoon dried oregano 6 cilantro leaves, washed and finely chopped 3 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 3 quarts (12 cups) water 1 teaspoon salt ½ pound elbow macaroni 1 9-ounce package frozen green beans 2 tablespoons butter or margarine, cut into small pieces 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Grease a 2-quart baking dish and set aside. 2. Heat ¼ cup olive oil in a large skillet or frying pan. Sauté bell pepper, onion and garlic over moderate heat until tender (about 4 minutes). 3. Add ground beef and cook, stirring constantly, until browned. 4. Add tomatoes and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, breaking up tomatoes with a wooden spoon. 5. Stir in oregano, cilantro, ají dulce and pepper. Simmer gently over low heat,

uncovered, until thickened (about 10 minutes). 6. Meanwhile, combine water, salt and remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large pot. Bring to a boil and cook macaroni 8 to 10 minutes, until “al dente” or just tender. 7. Drain macaroni. Add pasta and green beans to beef sauce. 8. Place in baking dish. Dot with butter and bake 15 to 20 minutes until hot and bubbly. WINE: (If you want to skip the beer) Red Burgundy.

VEAL

We are enamored of the less glorious but more substantial cuts. eal is a status food. Yet in the Rivera family, it is usually prepared as a veal stew or a veal roast. In other words, we have a way of bringing royal dishes down to earth. We are enamored of the less glorious but more substantial cuts —veal chops, rump of veal, or just plain veal steaks. Forget about this veal á la créme stuff.

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Back when I was growing up, Sunday was the day Mom made us veal roast with rice and pigeon peas. It was also the day we got to go to the Eagle Theater on Third Avenue and 103rd Street. The Eagle Theater didn’t show first run movies. What we saw there were vintage flicks going back twenty years or more—Westerns with Gene Autry or Randolph Scott, comedies featuring Abbott and Costello or the Dead End Kids, horror classics like Frankenstein Meets the Wolfman. The feature plus cartoons and an old newsreel thrown in cost us one dollar. What made the old Eagle so exciting for us kids was that it served as a counterpoint to the cinema our parents and grandparents went to see. They went over to the Prospect Theater in the Bronx or to the El Teatro Puerto Rico on East 138th Street, where they could see Argentine musicals featuring Carlos Gardel, or Mexican films featuring Libertad Lamarque (known as the “Sweetheart of the Americas”), Maria Felix (reputed to have been the lover of the great Mexican muralist Diego Rivera), Jorge Negrete, and Arturo de Córdova. You couldn’t pay us younger Riveras to sit through those tearjerkers with all the men swaggering around in mariachi outfits and big hats. What we wanted was the Hollywood stuff—Humphrey Bogart in All Through the Night, or Errol Flynn in Captain Blood. But by around 7 o’clock, after an afternoon of fantasy and magic, the family would come together again, everyone famished. The singular veal roast, or veal shanks stewed in their own broth and served over yams, would recall us gently and lovingly back to reality.

CHULETAS DE TERNERA A LA CRIOLLA (VEAL CHOPS CREOLE STYLE)

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his is probably the most usual way we have to prepare veal. Some variations have the onion sliced into rounds and the bell pepper cut into strips and then cooked with the veal and tomatoes. Fresh tomatoes can be used instead of the canned variety. But I have found that Italian plum tomatoes from the can work better, especially if the fresh tomatoes that you use happen to be those small tasteless knobs wrapped in cellophane. Carrots and/or small potatoes can also be added at the same time as the chops. YIELD: 4 servings

4 shoulder veal chops, about 1½ pounds 6 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon dried thyme ¼ cup olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 16-ounce can plum tomatoes 2 bay leaves 1. Rinse chops under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Combine peppercorns, garlic, oregano, salt and thyme in a mortar, and pound until crushed. 3. Rub chops thoroughly with crushed seasoning. 4. Heat oil in a large skillet or frying pan. Brown chops over moderate heat on both sides, turning once (about 5 minutes per side). Remove and set aside. 5. Add onion, bell pepper, tomatoes and bay leaves to drippings in the skillet. Sauté until tender (about 4 to 5 minutes). 6. Add chops, cover tightly and cook on low heat for 30 minutes or until tender. WINE: Pinot Noir.

CHULETAS DE TERNERA A LA JARDINERA (VEAL CHOPS A LA JARDINERA)

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hen something is done a la jardinera, it means garden style—another way of saying that it’s cooked with vegetables. There are countless jardinera recipes, especially when it comes to veal, lamb or pork chops. Some folks may add just two basic vegetables: tomatoes and green beans (or sweet peas). Others may go all out including in it such things as corn, mushrooms, broccoli, even okra and cauliflower. To cut corners we just use a can or package of frozen mixed vegetables. As noted in this recipe, during the final step we simmer the veggies along with the veal in the sauce. If you’re using frozen vegetables, add them during the last 5 minutes of cooking. YIELD: 4 servings

4 veal chops (about ¾ pound each) 6 whole black peppercorns 1 clove garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons olive oil ½ teaspoon white vinegar 2 medium tomatoes, thinly sliced 1 16-ounce can mixed vegetables, drained or 1 10-ounce package frozen mixed vegetables, or an equal amount of fresh vegetables if you insist 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 1. Rinse chops under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Place peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt in a mortar and pound until crushed. Blend in 2 tablespoons olive oil and vinegar. 3. Rub chops thoroughly with the seasoning. Set aside and let stand for 10 minutes. 4. Heat remaining oil in a heavy skillet or frying pan. Add chops and brown evenly over moderate heat on both sides (about 10 minutes). 5. Add tomatoes, mixed vegetables and tomato sauce. Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer on low heat for 20 minutes. Serve with potatoes or bianda (root plants). WINE: We in North America tend to have this view which relegates our wine-making mainly to California or perhaps

New York State. But in the last few years other areas have come forward. Not least among them is Oregon state, which has seen impressive success, especially with Pinot Noir. Two Oregon vineyards that excel with this grape variety are Domaine Drouhin and Panther Creek.

TERNERA EN FRICASE (VEAL FRICASSÉE)

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his is similar to a French dish called Veal Marengo. In that renowned effort, mushrooms, parsley and other ingredients are combined with the meat to create a sort of veal stew. We do it differently in that we adhere to a simple mix consisting of broth and tomato sauce. Unlike most criollo entreés, we slice the onions and add pepper strips. Quartered potatoes, capers or olives can be included in the mix. Just increase the liquid content accordingly by adding ½ cup water. YIELD: 4 servings

2 pounds boneless shoulder of veal, cut into 1-inch chunks ½ cup flour Salt and ground black pepper to taste ½ cup olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and finely sliced 1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1 cup beef broth or bouillon 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce ½ teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon dried thyme 1 bay leaf 1. Rinse veal and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Season flour with salt and pepper. 3. Dredge veal chunks in seasoned flour. 4. Heat oil in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven. Sauté onions, bell pepper and garlic over moderate heat for about 4 minutes. Add veal and cook until meat is lightly browned (another 2 to 3 minutes). 5. Add broth, tomato sauce, oregano, thyme and bay leaf. Stir to combine. 6. Cover and simmer, on low heat, for 30 minutes or until veal is tender. WINE: Brouilly.

RIÑÓN DE TERNERA (VEAL KIDNEYS)

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eal kidneys are an acquired taste, just like liver and sweetbreads. For those of us who are aficionados, the recipe goes well with parsleyed potatoes (see page 275).

YIELD: 4 servings

3 veal kidneys, about 1½ pounds Salt and ground black pepper to taste 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons butter or margarine 1 small onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced ½ teaspoon dried tarragon 1 teaspoon finely chopped chives 1 tablespoon flour 1 cup beef broth or bouillon ½ cup light cream 2 tablespoons dry sherry, preferably fino 1. Wash kidneys and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Slice the kidneys in half and cut away the white center core. Cut the kidneys crosswise into thin slices. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Heat oil in a skillet or frying pan. Brown the kidneys over high heat, stirring constantly (about 3 minutes). Remove and drain on absorbent paper towels. 4. In same skillet, heat two tablespoons butter. Add onion and garlic. Sauté on moderate heat until onion is tender. 5. Stir in tarragon, chives and flour. Add broth, cream and sherry. Stir to thicken quickly. 6. Add kidneys. Stir in remaining butter. Simmer 4 minutes more. WINE: A white Burgundy, slightly chilled.

TERNERA AL HORNO (VEAL ROAST)

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ack in my long ago youth, and mainly in winter, the Sunday dinner in our household would invariably involve a roast. It could be either pernil, or pot roast or, on that special occasion, a veal roast as described below. The beauty of a veal roast is that it can be stuffed with a variety of goodies: vegetables, seafood, rice, etc., or any combination thereof. We prefer to roll it up with ham and cheese. We like Canadian bacon; but boiled ham, mortadella or proscuitto will do nicely. For the cheese, we like Swiss. Gruyère or any pale yellow cheese can be substituted. Those Sunday roasts are just memories now. The extended family has scattered up and down the East Coast and across Latin America (Uncle Phillip’s last refuge was Honduras). Most of the next generation have children of their own; and the kids only know about microwave cooking and fast food. YIELD: 6 or more servings

1 4½ to 5 pound boned rump of veal 8 whole black peppercorns 3 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon white vinegar 4 slices smoked Canadian bacon 1 4-ounce jar sweet red pimentos, drained and cut into wide strips 6 slices Gruyère or Swiss cheese Kitchen string for tying 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Place veal on a cutting board. Cut the veal lengthwise and lay out flat in one piece. Rinse under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. 3. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt. Blend in olive oil and vinegar. 4. Rub the veal inside and out with the crushed seasoning. 5. Lay the bacon slices over the veal. Then top the slices with sweet pepper strips; and finally with the cheese.

6. Roll up the veal and tie securely with kitchen string. 7. Place on a shallow baking pan and bake 2½ hours. 8. Remove from oven, discard string and cut veal in slices. A white or tomato sauce (see page 253, 188) can be served with the roast. Serve with rice and/or bianda. WINE: The commune of Fleurie (Flew-ree) produces this fruity charmer of a Beaujolais that is best lightly chilled.

BIFTEC DE TERNERA (VEAL STEAKS)

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ere’s the veal straight up, sans complications. Just seasoned, browned, and served drizzled with butter and lemon juice. Quick cooking is the key. At most, it should take no more than 5 minutes per side for the veal to be done. You want the inner meat to retain that moist, milk-fed flavor. There are those who contend that veal served with any kind of a sauce other than butter, is a sacrilege. This recipe is for them. YIELD: 4 servings

4 boneless veal steaks, about 1½ pounds 6 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon dried marjoram 4 tablespoons butter or margarine Juice of ½ lemon 1. Rinse steaks under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano, salt and marjoram. 3. Rub veal with crushed seasoning. 4. Heat 3 tablespoons butter in a large skillet or frying pan. Brown veal on both sides (about 5 minutes per side). 5. Add remaining butter and drizzle veal with lemon juice. Cook about 1 minute more and serve. WINE: Tavel (Tah-vel) is the driest French rosé. It comes from the village of the same name near Avignon. Serve chilled.

TERNERA CON POLVO DE CURRY (CURRIED VEAL)

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here are those who may question using curry on such a delicate meat as veal. We say, why not? This is not veal that is pounded thin. These are veal chunks and the curry gives it a true piquancy. Sometimes curry in Caribbean cuisine is tempered with a sweetish effect: raisins are added, or shredded coconut and cut-up fruit such as apples and apricots. That isn’t our way. Our idea is to have the natural curry flavor. YIELD: 4 servings

2 pounds boneless shoulder of veal, cut into 1-inch chunks Salt and ground black pepper to taste ½ cup olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1½ cups chicken broth or bouillon 2 tablespoons curry powder (or more to taste) 1. Wash veal and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Season veal with salt and pepper. 3. Heat oil in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven. Add onion, bell pepper and garlic. Sauté over moderate heat until tender. 4. Add veal chunks and cook until browned. 5. Add chicken broth and stir in curry powder. 6. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low heat for 30 minutes or until veal is tender. 7. If necessary, the sauce can be thickened with a mix of 1 tablespoon cornstarch and 2 tablespoons water. WINE: Germany’s Moselle River valley gives us Brauneberg (Brown-uh-bairg), a crisp, clear white wine with a hint of

spice. Falkenburg, Lay and Juffer are the best vineyards. Serve chilled.

DOÑA ALMA’S MUSLO DE TERNERA (MRS. ALMA’S VEAL SHANKS)

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he numbers bookie that I knew growing up wasn’t your fabled dude with the shifty eyes, raspy voice and suspicious manner. In our building the banker was Doña Alma, a quaint and grandmotherly woman beloved by all. Her apartment on the third floor had always been the banking parlor for as long as anyone could remember. The bell would ring while Doña Alma stood majestically over the kitchen stove. She would leave the stewing pot, amble over to the door, open it and take a slip of paper and money from some kid whose parents had sent him over with the numbers they’d like to play. She’d give the youngster a maternal smile, close the door, and trudge back to her kitchen. From behind one of the cupboards she would extract a large blue ledger, scan the pages, then post the number in the ledger. Then she would put back the book in its hiding place. The money would be deposited in an envelope she kept wrapped in cellophane and hidden behind the toilet bowl in the bathroom. At about 3:15 in the afternoon her oldest grandson, Ernesto, would return from school. She would pamper Ernie with milk and Sultana crackers, then send him on his way with a listing of the day’s receipts. Ernie would deposit the receipts with a local bodega owner, who would hand them over to the bag men who’d take the winnings back to the local don. Ernie would return half an hour later to find Doña Alma stirring the veal shanks in that big pot, adjusting the seasoning, preparing the yellow rice, and putting together that marvelous supper. Years later when Doña Alma went to meet her maker, the funeral parlor on 116th Street was packed. Almost everyone in the Barrio had turned out. At the wake, the conversation ranged from all those numbers Doña Alma had dutifully recorded in her ledger, to those great smells wafting from her kitchen. No one passed judgment on her less than legal activity. In our building, some of her neighbors got lucky. We didn’t get rich playing the numbers, but we got that veal recipe. YIELD: 4 servings

4 veal shanks (about 3½ pounds), cut into serving pieces ¾ cup flour Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon crumbled rosemary ½ cup olive oil 1 cup chicken broth or bouillon

1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 6 chopped cilantro leaves 2 bay leaves 1. Rinse veal shanks and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Season flour with salt, pepper, oregano and rosemary. Dredge shanks in flour. 3. Heat oil in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven. Add veal shanks and brown evenly on moderate-low heat. 4. Add chicken broth, onion, garlic, cilantro and bay leaves. Mix well. 5. Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer on low heat for 1 hour or until veal is tender. Serve in broth over bianda. WINE:

Germany is mainly known for its white wines. It does produce some good reds; and among the best is Ingelheimer (Ing-el-heim-er): light, slightly dry and fruity. Serve lightly chilled.

ALBÓNDIGAS DE TERNERA (VEAL MEATBALLS) Why make meatballs out of veal? Veal has this subtle flavor that makes veal meatballs extremely tasty. Unlike beef meatballs (see page 163), we do not cook veal meatballs in their own sauce. For those who need it, we’ve included a tomato sauce that is cooked separately. But it doesn’t have to be tomato sauce. In Eastern Europe ground veal is served with sour cream or a mustard base sauce among others. Sticking to our Nuyorican norms, we like these meatballs served with tostones or ripe yellow plantains sliced lengthwise and browned (see page 163). 2 pounds lean ground veal 1 cup cracker crumbs 1 egg, lightly beaten ½ cup milk 1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped ¼ cup fresh chopped parsley Salt and ground black pepper to taste Corn or vegetable oil for frying 1. In a bowl combine the veal, cracker crumbs, egg, milk, onion, parsley, salt and pepper. 2. With the hands, shape the mixture into approximately 16 balls the size of a Spaulding handball or a lime. 3. Heat oil in a large skillet or frying pan. Add meatballs and brown evenly over moderate heat (about 8 to 10 minutes). This may be done in batches depending on size of skillet. 4. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on absorbent paper towels. 5. Serve with tomato sauce (recipe below).

SAUCE: YIELD: About 2 cups

3 tablespoons olive oil 2 ounces lean cured ham, washed and diced 1 28-ounce can plum tomatoes with tomato paste 3 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped 1 teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon marjoram 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed 1. Heat olive oil in a skillet. Stir in ham and cook on moderate heat until ham is rendered of its fat and browned. 2. Add tomatoes, ají dulce, oregano, marjoram and garlic. Sauté for about 5 minutes, breaking up tomatoes with wooden spoon as they cook. 3. Cover, lower heat and simmer 20 minutes. Adjust for seasoning, adding salt and pepper if needed. WINE: Verdicchio.

PORK

A pole was run through the pig’s body with the legs tied securely around the pole.

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y most memorable recollection before going off to war was an outdoor gathering at Uncle Phillip’s place in Canovanas, a town about 30 miles from San Juan. Phillip, at that time, had a large homestead where he kept hogs and poultry, as well as owning a local store.

I had just come back from what the Marine Corps calls “staging.” This is advanced infantry training given to all recruits in some backwater, usually Camp Lejeune in North Carolina. After staging, they figure you know enough to avoid getting shot, and they send you home for one last blast before getting into the thick of things. The week before our visit, Uncle Phillip’s oldest son, also a Marine recruit, had left for the jungles of Southeast Asia. For all of us it was a time of fear and foreboding. This was just after the Tet Offensive and the war had become a day-to-day nightmare on the evening news. As much as we tried to put a positive spin on things, it hovered above us like a dark cloud. It was decided I needed a special sendoff. So the family hunkered down and threw that most Puerto Rican of all festivities—an open air party with roast suckling pig as its centerpiece. Phillip took one of his prize hogs, slaughtered it, washed it, seasoned it inside and out with garlic, oregano, sweet chili, cilantro, salt and pepper. A pole was run through the pig’s body with the legs tied securely around the pole. Then it was placed on stilts over a charcoal fire and slowly roasted on the spit while periodically basted with a mix of olive oil, achiote and wine. The barbeque began in the morning and continued until late afternoon, by which time the perfectly cooked pig had a radiant walnut color. In between, we feasted on plantains, salads, avocados, chicken and swordfish. The pig was served with yellow rice and pigeon peas (arroz con gandules; see page 224). Our merrymaking went late into the night with some of us simply passing out on the back forty. Phillip’s son and I both made it back from Vietnam in one piece (though with our bodies peppered with shards of shrapnel). A lot has happened since then. Quite a few shindigs, in fact. But nothing as splendid as that barbeque. The smell of green plantains roasting on stones, crisp pork crackling in the fire, rum and coconut water passing from hand to hand, and a hot sun breathing on our backs. A windless, perfectly golden day. My mother and Phillip’s lady making tostones; my father and uncle recalling the old days; and the rest of us soaking it all in like sponges. It was one day we didn’t talk politics or war or anything remotely related to it.

PERNIL AL HORNO (ROAST PORK SHOULDER)

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his entrée is regarded as a holiday treat. It’s served during the Christmas holidays in lieu of the traditional turkey. (Turkey for Thanksgiving is usually enough for us.) The standard side dish is rice and pigeon peas. This recipe works well with leg of pork, but pork shoulder is preferred among the jíbaros (country folk). YIELD: 5 to 6 servings

1 4- to 6-pound pork shoulder, casing removed Juice of one whole lemon 3 cloves garlic, peeled and cut into slivers Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1. Cut the lemon in half and sprinkle lemon juice over the entire pork shoulder. This will rid the meat of its “swinish” odor. 2. Wash pork thoroughly under cold running water. Pat dry with paper towels. 3. With a sharp knife make various slits in the fat and meat of the shoulder. Stud the slits with garlic slivers. 4. Sprinkle the pork shoulder with salt, pepper and oregano. Rub seasoning into the skin. 5. Place meat in a large pot or kettle. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or preferably overnight. 6. After marinating, arrange pork shoulder in a greased, shallow baking pan. 7. Bake in a preheated 300°F oven for about 1 hour. The meat should have a golden brown color. 8. Raise oven temperature to 350°F and bake for another 2 hours. Roast is done when pork is tender. Serve with rice and pigeon peas (see page 224). WINE: My favorite Bordeaux comes from that wine region known as the Médoc (May-dock), which produces a wine that

is lighter in body than other Bordeaux but still with a full flavor and elegant bouquet. Also, it can be served lightly chilled—though I’m sure my more learned friends would consider this heresy.

CHULETAS EMPANADAS (BREADED PORK CHOPS)

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here are two ways that we prepare breaded pork chops. One method is to apply the breading and then bake slowly in a medium oven (350°F). The other way is listed below. Here, lean pork chops are required, about ½-inch thick. They are lightly pounded, breaded and cooked in oil. Breaded pork chops are usually served with a salad. YIELD: 4 servings

8 lean pork chops, ½-inch thick (about 1½ pounds) 8 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 tablespoon oregano 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon vinegar 2 eggs lightly beaten 2 cups bread crumbs Vegetable oil for frying 1. Rinse chops under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt. Add olive oil and vinegar, and mix. 3. Place chops between two sheets of plastic wrap and pound lightly with a mallet. 4. Rub seasoning into pork chops. 5. Dip each chop in the beaten eggs, then coat with bread crumbs, pressing crumbs into both sides with heel of hand. 6. Heat oil in a large skillet or frying pan and cook until golden brown (about 4 to 5 minutes per side). Drain on absorbent paper towels. WINE: Petite Sirah.

CHULETAS RELLENAS (STUFFED PORK CHOPS)

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t takes time to prepare this one, but it makes a great Sunday dinner. You can serve it with gravy or without. If you’re a barbarian at heart, you can pour ketchup over it and forget the gravy. YIELD: 4 servings

4 rib pork chops, 1½ inches thick (about 3 pounds) Salt and ground black pepper to taste 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 cup bread crumbs ½ teaspoon dried rosemary 1 teaspoon capers, drained ¼ cup flour ⅓ cup vegetable oil 2 tablespoons butter or margarine 1. Rinse chops in cold water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Place chops, one at a time, on a cutting board and place one hand on top. With a sharp boning knife, cut chop lengthwise all the way to the rib, creating a small pocket. Be careful to keep knife blade equidistant between the cutting board and the palm of your hand. 3. Trim off excess fat and season inside and out with salt and pepper. 4. Heat olive oil in a large skillet or frying pan. Add onion, garlic and bell pepper. Sauté over moderate heat for about 5 minutes. Stir in bread crumbs, rosemary and capers to complete the stuffing. Continue cooking for 3 minutes more. 5. Fill each pork chop pocket with about ¼ cup stuffing. Close pockets by fastening together with wooden toothpicks. 6. Pour flour on a flat plate and dredge pork chops in flour until they’re coated on both sides. 7. Heat vegetable oil and butter in a large skillet (you can wipe clean and use the

same skillet as before). Brown chops on both sides over low heat (about 8 to 10 minutes per side). Depending on size of skillet you may have to cook them two at a time. When finished, reserve pan juices. 8. Arrange chops in a greased, shallow baking pan. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and bake in a 350°F preheated oven for exactly 1 hour. 9. Remove foil and wooden toothpicks. Continue baking, uncovered, for about 45 minutes or until tender. 10. Chops can be served as is. If a gravy is required, dissolve leftover flour in ½ cup water. Cook baking pan and reserved pan juices over moderate heat, adding dissolved flour while stirring. Cook until thickened and boiling. Strain and serve over chops. WINE: The best known red wine from the Rhône Valley is Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Shah-toe-nuff dew Pop). Sturdy and

full-bodied, it is best served at room temperature.

CHULETAS GUISADAS (STEWED PORK CHOPS)

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ne of Uncle Phillip’s many amours, a certain Margie who lived in Harlem, was a fine cook who loved making pork chops stewed in tomatoes and onions. Uncle Phillip would invite me over and we’d savor the meal along with ice cold beer and good talk. YIELD: 4 servings

4 loin pork chops 8 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon dried marjoram 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon vinegar 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped ½ medium green bell pepper, seeded and chopped 1 28-ounce can plum tomatoes 1 16-ounce can green beans, drained 1. Rinse chops in cold water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano, salt and marjoram in a mortar. Blend in olive oil and vinegar. 3. Rub each chop thoroughly with the seasoning. 4. Place chops in a heavy skillet or frying pan and brown over moderate heat on both sides (about 5 minutes per side). 5. Add onion and bell pepper. Cover and cook for about 5 minutes. 6. Add plum tomatoes and their liquid, and bring to a boil. Cover, lower heat and simmer for about 40 minutes. 7. Add green beans. Stir and cook, covered, for 5 minutes longer. WINE: Pinot Noir.

PERNIL CON VEGETALES (PORK TENDERLOIN WITH VEGETABLES)

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his is similar to roast pork shoulder. The steps are the same with the exception that assorted vegetables are added (along with broth and rum) and cooked with the pork during final baking. YIELD: 4 or more servings

1 2-pound pork tenderloin 2 cloves garlic, peeled and cut into slivers Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon dried oregano 2 medium onions, peeled and sliced 1 eggplant (about 1¼ pounds), peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes 2 large tomatoes, quartered 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and sliced into ¼-inch strips 1 cup beef broth or bouillon ½ cup white Puerto Rican rum 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Wash pork tenderloin and pat dry. 3. With a sharp knife make various slits in the meat. Stud the slits with garlic slivers. 4. Sprinkle the pork with salt, pepper and oregano, Rub seasoning into the meat. 5. Place pork in a greased, shallow baking pan and bake until browned (about 30 minutes). 6. Lower temperature to 350°F and surround pork with onions, eggplant, tomatoes and bell pepper strips. Pour in beef broth and rum. 7. Bake for another 2 hours or until pork is tender. WINE: Segesta is a Sicilian wine that comes both in white and red. The red is mellow, smooth and full-bodied. Serve

slightly chilled (10 to 15 minutes in the fridge will do it).

PATITAS DE CERDO CON GARBANZOS (PIGS FEET WITH CHICKPEAS)

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ow we’re getting to the esoteric parts of the beast. Pigs feet are not going to be served at the debutante cotillion ball. But go to the Barrio or Harlem and it’s another story. Down South they call it soul cooking; it transcends caste, race and gender. Case in point: while in the Marines, I knew a white Southerner, one Sergeant Hollins, who would wax poetic about pigs feet, ham hocks and beans. Little did Sergeant Hollins suspect he had so much in common with the old guys playing dominoes on 110th Street, who just love pigs feet and knuckles. YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

2½ pounds fresh pigs feet, cut into serving pieces 1 pound dry chickpeas 3 tablespoons olive oil ½ cup sofrito (see page 9) ½ cup tomato sauce 1 chicken bouillon cube ½ pound pumpkin, peeled and cut into bite-size pieces 1 medium potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 1. Fresh pigs feet, if preserved in salt, have to be prepared before cooking. Place pigs feet in a large pot or casserole with water to cover and let stand (with pot covered) overnight. 2. Place chickpeas in a separate pot with water to cover and let stand overnight. 3. Next day, drain both pigs feet and chickpeas. Rinse in cold running water and place in a large kettle or Dutch oven. Add 2 quarts (8 cups) water and bring to a boil on moderate-high heat for 1½ hours or until pigs feet are tender. Chickpeas should also be tender but firm. If water evaporates during cooking, add more liquid as required to continue boiling. 4. Heat olive oil in a skillet or frying pan. Add sofrito and tomato sauce. Sauté over moderate heat for 4 to 5 minutes. Add this to pigs feet, along with bouillon cube. 5. Stir in pumpkin and potato. Bring to a boil, lower heat to moderate-low and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes. Serve with rice. WINE: A California Barbera.

JUNTURAS DE CERDO GUISADAS (STEWED PIGS KNUCKLES) YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

2 pounds fresh pigs knuckles 2 ounces lean cured ham or 1 ounce salt pork, washed and diced 1 small onion, peeled and chopped 1 small green pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 3 ají dulce (sweet chili peppers), seeded and chopped 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 16-ounce cans pigeon peas ½ pound pumpkin, peeled and cut into bite-size pieces 1 tablespoon achiote (see page 10) 1. Wash pigs knuckles under cold running water. Remove the outer skin from each knuckle. This will decidedly reduce the fat content. 2. Place knuckles in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven with about 2 quarts (8 cups) water. Cover and boil over moderate heat for 1 hour or until tender. Note that some water may evaporate during this process. 3. In a skillet or frying pan, brown ham on high heat. Lower heat to moderate and add onion, bell pepper, garlic, ají dulce, tomato sauce and olive oil. Sauté for 5 minutes. 4. Add pigeon peas (with their liquid) to pigs knuckles. There should be about 2 cups liquid in the pot. Otherwise, add more water. 5. Add pumpkin and achiote. Stir to combine and add water to cover ingredients, if necessary. Cover kettle and cook over moderate heat for another ½ hour. The knuckles should be steaming in a thick stew. If not, continue cooking until thickened. WINE: In the Hunter Valley region of Australia they have a grape variety called Hermitage (Err-mee-taj). This is their

name for the Shiraz (Shee-rahz), the famous grape hailing from the Rhône Valley in Southern France. The Australian version of Shiraz produces a very full, dry red wine that should be served at room temperature.

CARNE DE CERDO CON HONGO (PORK WITH MUSHROOMS)

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ork with mushrooms can be prepared immediately. We prefer to marinate the pork overnight. In some recipes white wine is used instead of water: and in a pinch, canned mushrooms can be substituted for fresh. The thing to remember is that when browning the pork no additional oil is needed. The marinade will provide enough fat. Be aware that you may have to add more water during the simmering since there is the evaporation factor. Usually this is not necessary, but I’ve learned that even with the most tested and tried recipes there are no set rules. YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

2 pounds boneless pork, cut into 1-inch chunks Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1 tablespoon dried rosemary ¼ cup olive oil 3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced ¼ cup tomato paste 1 pound fresh mushrooms, sliced 1. Place pork in a bowl or casserole. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, oregano and rosemary. Mix olive oil with garlic and pour over pork. Cover and let stand 4 hours or preferably overnight. 2. Next day, brown pork in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven over high heat. 3. Mix 1 cup water with tomato paste and add to pork. Stir, cover and simmer on low heat for 1 hour or until pork is tender. 4. Add mushrooms and cook, covered, 20 minutes more. Serve over white rice. WINE: The Alpine Valley of Ghemme in the eastern Italian Piedmont region gives us a red wine called, appropriately,

Ghemme (Geh-meh). Medium-bodied and soft, serve at cool room temperature.

JAMÓN AL HORNO (ROAST HAM)

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n the mainland, ham and Easter are a traditional pairing. On the island, roast pork shoulder is the common treat during the Easter holidays. But once we started making roast ham, we weren’t afraid to experiment. No one should feel constrained within the confines of a kitchen. If it doesn’t come out this time, it’ll come out next time. That was the philosophy of my grandmother, Adelaida (nicknamed “Lala”). The funny thing was that her ham came out superbly every time. YIELD: 10 or more servings

1 fully cooked boneless canned ham, 5 to 6 pounds ½ cup well packed brown sugar ¾ cup white Puerto Rican rum ½ cup orange juice 1 tablespoon grated orange rind 1 tablespoon ground ginger ¼ teaspoon powdered cloves 1. Preheat oven. 2. Combine ingredients and let stand, stirring frequently until sugar dissolves (20 to 30 minutes). 3. Spoon mixture over ham, spreading evenly over surface. 4. Bake according to package directions. WINE: Krover Nacktarsch (Krov-er Knocktarsh) encompasses a variety of white wines from the Moselle Valley. They are

light and fruity and best served chilled.

GANDINGA

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andinga is a word of African origin used to describe altogether a hog’s liver, kidney, heart and esophagus. Most people discard the esophagus, claiming that it has too much cartilage for proper cooking. Gandinga can be found in any Hispanic or Caribbean butcher shop and you buy it by the pound. The oldtimers, be they Nuyorican or island native, rhapsodize on its flavor. Gandinga isn’t served that much in Nuyorican homes today. My grandmother used to make it. It’s a jíbaro (country) dish whose genealogy goes back to the first Africans brought to the island. I included it here because it’s a boriqua specialty that the first wave of Nuyoricans hold dear. 3 pounds hog’s liver, kidney and heart (esophagus optional) Juice of 1 whole lemon 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 medium Idaho or Maine potatoes, cut into ½-inch cubes 1 tablespoon chopped recao (see page 9) 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced 3 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped ½ teaspoon dried oregano 4 fresh cilantro leaves, chopped Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 2 dashes of hot sauce (optional) 1. Rinse gandinga (liver, kidney and heart) under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Trim and discard any excess tissue or cartilage. 2. Chop gandinga into small bite-size pieces. Pour lemon juice over it. 3. In a heavy kettle or Dutch oven, bring 2 cups water to a boil. Add gandinga plus olive oil. Cover and simmer on low heat for 1 hour or until tender. 4. Stir in potatoes, recao, garlic, ají dulce, oregano, cilantro, tomato sauce, salt, pepper and hot sauce, if using. Cover and cook for another 30 minutes. 5. Serve with guineos (boiled green bananas). WINE: Take your pick: Chianti, Zinfandel or Grignolino.

CARNE DE CERDO CON PAPAS (PORK WITH POTATOES)

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his effort calls for the pork to be cut into small pieces, or what we call picaditos (little bits or morsels). Apart from the ingredients given, one can add pumpkin and small pearl onions. You can make it as fancy or just leave it plain with potatoes. Also, it doesn’t hurt to sprinkle snipped fresh parsley on the entrée before serving. YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

2 pounds boneless pork, cut into 1-inch chunks 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 3 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped 4 fresh cilantro leaves, chopped 8 pimento stuffed Spanish olives 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 pound potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes 1. Wash pork under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Heat oil in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven and brown pork over high heat. 3. Add onion, garlic, bell pepper, ají dulce, cilantro, olives, tomato sauce, salt and pepper. Sauté for about 5 minutes on moderate heat. 4. Add 2 cups water, cover and cook over moderate heat for 1 hour or until pork is tender. 5. Add potatoes and cook another 25 minutes. WINE: Years ago I saw a movie titled The Towering Inferno. Apart from the standard pyrotechnics, the thing that held my

interest was the introduction early into the plot of a case of wine from Romanée-Conti (Ro-man-ay Con-tee). My knowledge of fine French wines was scant in those days. What intrigued me was that one of the characters almost risks his life trying to save the case from going down with the building. Talk about love. I later discovered that this wine comes from the famed wine village Vosne-Romanée (Vone-Ro-man-ay) situated on the Côte d’Or in Burgundy. This area produces other magnificent wines such as La Táche and Richebourg. After seeing the movie I just had to try out this wine no matter how expensive. And it ain’t cheap. But it’s worth every sou.

MASITAS DE CERDO (PORK BITS)

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nother platter of Cuban origin. I’m told this treat was once popular in little cafetines and ramshackle bistros which dotted the island back in the old days. It might still be found in some out of the way places in the interior. Years ago in the Barrio this was served in sandwiches in the mom and pop cuchifrito joints. It has since been replaced by what is now known as Cuban sandwiches (ham, Swiss cheese and sour pickle served on pressed Italian bread). YIELD: 4 servings

3 pounds boneless pork, cut into 1-inch cubes Juice of 1 whole lemon Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon oregano 1 teaspoon dried rosemary 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced Vegetable or corn oil for deep frying 1. Wash pork and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Sprinkle with lemon juice and season with salt, pepper, oregano, rosemary and garlic. 3. In a heavy pot or kettle, bring 2 cups water to a boil. Add pork, cover and simmer on low heat for 1 hour or until pork is tender. 4. Remove pork pieces and drain on absorbent paper towels to remove all excess moisture. 5. Deep-fry pork in a large skillet until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve over white or yellow rice. WINE: Mourvèdre (Moo-verdr) is a grape variety that goes into the making of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. On its own, it is

rich and full-bodied. Serve slightly chilled.

CARNE DE CERDO AL PINCHÓN (PORK SHISHKEBOB)

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hishkebob or shashlick is Turkish in origin. But the idea of broiling or roasting pieces of meat on a skewer goes back to time immemorial. In fact, the word kabob comes from the Hindi, Kebab. Nuyoricans, like almost everybody else on the North American continent, have picked up this novel way of cooking and made it their own. Our recipe below can also be employed in the ritual back yard barbecue. Simply broil the kebobs over hot coals or charcoal and you’ll get the same effect. YIELD: 4 servings

1 pound boneless pork loin, cut into 1-inch cubes 1 cup dry white wine ½ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro 3 bay leaves 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 1-inch squares 1 large onion, sliced diagonally into 1-inch wedges or 8 to 10 small pearl onions 1 medium sweet red pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 1-inch squares 1. Wash pork and pat dry with paper towels. 2. In a large bowl, combine the wine, olive oil, lemon juice, cilantro, bay leaves, garlic, salt and pepper. 3. Add pork. Cover and refrigerate overnight, turning the pork at least once. 4. Drain pork, reserving marinade. Thread pork cubes into metal skewers, alternating with a piece of green pepper, onion wedge and red pepper. Brush kebobs, peppers and onion with marinade. Arrange on a rack in the broiler and grill 4 to 6 inches from heat source for about 8 to 10 minutes. Baste with marinade once or twice during grilling. WINE: The Riesling grape is a German variety that is also cultivated in California. Here it produces a refreshing white

called Johannisberger Riesling (Yoh-hahn-iss-berger Rees-ling). The wine is rich in bouquet and flavor. Serve chilled.

COSTILLAS DE CERDO AL HORNO (BARBECUED SPARERIBS)

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e know of two ways to prepare barbecued ribs. The first method (the one we use in our recipe) calls for baking the spareribs throughout. Another way is to boil the ribs in a pot of water for an hour and then bake another hour. Out west, they prefer their ribs with a sweet and sour flavor. Lots of hot sauce is added along with Worcestershire, dry mustard and brown sugar. More conservative in our approach, we rely on nothing more than frequent basting in a seasoned sauce. Whichever way you do it, it’s family food. YIELD: 4 servings

3 pounds lean spareribs (2 strips) Salt and ground black pepper to taste 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1 small green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 16-ounce can plum tomatoes 1 teaspoon dried oregano 3 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped ¼ cup tomato paste 1. Preheat oven to 425°F. 2. Wash ribs and pat dry with paper towels. 3. With a sharp knife cut between every third rib halfway through the strip. 4. Place ribs in a greased, shallow baking pan. Season with salt and pepper and bake for exactly 1 hour. Pour off excess fat from pan. 5. Meanwhile, in a skillet or frying pan, heat oil and add onion, garlic and bell pepper. Sauté over moderate heat until tender. 6. Add tomatoes and their liquid, oregano, ají dulce, and tomato paste. Sauté 5 minutes more, breaking up tomatoes as they cook. Spoon sauce over ribs. 7. Lower temperature to 375°F and bake another 45 minutes, basting frequently. WINE: The vineyards of Zeltingen (Tsel-ting-en) produce wines that are light and dry. Among the best are Sonnenuhr,

Rotlay and Schlossberg. Serve chilled.

LAMB AND GOAT

Goat and lamb may be different animals but they are closely allied. here’s this caveat that lamb is fatty meat. Like duck, it’s considered one of those foods that one approaches with caution if at all. Like duck, it depends on the cooking. Properly prepared, lamb can assume the status of a delicacy. Except as something for the Easter table, we Americans are really not up to snuff when it comes to lamb. Sure, we may fry a couple of lamb chops or, on occasion, impress the boss with rack of lamb, but in terms of variety, we are woefully behind.

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Lamb was not that prevalent on the island in the old days. Beef, pork and poultry were the mainstays. And goat meat took the place of lamb. Goat and lamb may be different animals but they are closely allied. Some contend that goat meat needs longer cooking time. My Uncles Phillip and Carlos, the goat meat experts in our clan, both claimed that goat should take no longer to cook than lamb (usually 1 to 1 ½ hours). Ironically, today goat meat is hard to find on the island. It is more readily available on the mainland. In most Nuyorican households, lamb has superseded goat. Some Nuyorican families today have never tasted goat and look upon lamb as a more versatile dish. Lamb can be roasted, broiled, stuffed or served in a stew. We even make sandwiches out of it. All it takes is imagination.

CHULETAS DE CORNERO A LA PARRILLA (BROILED LAMB CHOPS)

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uick, easy and no fuss. The only suggestion is, when buying lamb chops, get the best quality, preferably from the leg of the lamb. In terms of seasoning, we use the normal boriqua staples (peppercorn, oregano, etc.) My kitchen colleagues are divided on this. Some claim that lamb chops should be broiled with nothing more than salt, pepper and a little oil. On the other hand, I have friends from the Mediterranean basin who put cumin and coriander on them, rather strong seasonings. Another acquaintance sprinkles lemon juice on the chops after broiling. They all agree on the time element: 3 to 4 minutes per side for rare chops; 7 to 8 minutes for well done. YIELD: 4 servings

4 lamb chops, about 1-inch thick 8 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon oregano ½ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons olive oil 1. Preheat broiler to high. 2. Wash chops under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 3. Place peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt in a mortar, and pound until crushed. Mix in the olive oil. 4. Rub chops with the seasoning, pressing into the meat with your fingers and palm. 5. Arrange chops on a shallow baking pan or, preferably, on a rack with a pan under it. Broil about 3 inches from heat source, turning after 3 or 7 minutes, depending on your preference. Broil second side (3 to 4 minutes for medium, 5 minutes or more for well done). Serve with potatoes, a tossed salad, or tostones. WINE: Along the Côte de Beaune lies Burgundy’s prime commune, Aloxe-Corton (Ahl-ohss-Cor-tawnh). Here are

produced big powerful wines, both red and white. Among the whites, the best is Corton-Charlemagne (Cor-tawnh Sharle-mon-ye). Whichever white you decide on, serve slightly chilled.

MUSLO CORNERO A LA CARIBE (LAMB SHANKS CARIBBEAN STYLE)

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talian cuisine touts its osso buco, or braised veal shanks. We have something similar except it’s lamb shanks. Apart from the type of shank meat used, we differ in that after they are trimmed of fat, the shanks are browned and simmered. The usual first step in osso buco is to dust the shanks with flour and then brown. The final step is the same: slow cooking until done. YIELD: 4 servings

4 lamb shanks (about 3½ pounds), cut into serving pieces Juice of 1 whole lemon Salt and ground black pepper to taste ½ cup olive oil 1 28-ounce can plum tomatoes 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon chopped cilantro 1 tablespoon sofrito (see page 9) 2 bay leaves 1. Rinse lamb shanks and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Trim excess fat from shanks. 3. Sprinkle with lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper. 4. Heat olive oil in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven. Add lamb shanks and brown evenly on low-moderate heat. 5. Add tomatoes with their liquid, onion, garlic, oregano, cilantro, sofrito, and bay leaves. 6. Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer on low heat for 1½ hours or until tender. Serve with yellow rice and pigeon peas. WINE: Baco Noir.

PATA DE CORNERO AL HORNO (ROAST LEG OF LAMB)

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n our family we eschew the mint or pineapple glazed leg of lamb. We prefer the simple roast flavored with herbs and spices, with potatoes or root plants baked alongside. For those who worry about the fat content, you can roast the lamb on a rack with a baking pan underneath. Whether you do it that way or in the traditional manner, drain the excess fat after roasting. YIELD: 6 or more servings

1 leg of lamb (about 5 pounds) 10 whole black peppercorns 1 tablespoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon powdered thyme ¼ teaspoon dried marjoram 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 cloves garlic, peeled and cut into slivers 4 large potatoes, peeled and quartered 1. Preheat oven to 325°F. 2. Rinse lamb under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 3. With a sharp knife make several slits in the lamb. Stud the slits with garlic slivers. 4. Place peppercorns, oregano, salt, thyme and marjoram in a mortar and pound until crushed. Blend in olive oil. 5. Rub seasoning over entire leg of lamb. 6. Arrange lamb in a shallow baking pan, fat side up, and bake for 1 hour, basting occasionally. Arrange potatoes around lamb, and continue baking 1½ to 2 hours depending on desired doneness. WINE: The price of good Burgundy these days is astronomical. Fortunately, if you search around you might find a good

buy in Échezeaux (Eh-sheh-zoe). This vineyard on the Côte d’Or produces medium-strength wines, not as well-known as the big Burgundies, but first rate nevertheless. Serve at room temperature.

CALDO DE CORNERO (LAMB STEW)

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amb stew brings forth visions of cold New England winters with the family huddled around the kitchen, slurping up thick spoonfuls of the stuff. No such scene ever transpired on 110th Street. This dish was present in the middle of summer where its aroma wafted from airless tenements as well as on cold days in December. The older generation didn’t buy the concept of cold weather meals. If it was 90 in the shade that day and the old man wanted stew for dinner, he got the stew—along with lots of Italian bread and beer. Then the old guy would sweat it all out, dozing in front of the TV where a baseball game played on. Today, of course, we’re more sophisticated. Summertime is for salads and cold dishes. The lamb stew is for February. I don’t know. In retrospect, there was something about sitting out on the fire escape in the middle of July, eating from a hot bowl. We’d all be in shorts and tee-shirts, arguing as to who was the better catcher, Yogi Berra or Elston Howard: with the perspiration blotching the shirts to our backs. We didn’t have enough sense to know that thick stews were not for summer. And, you know what? We didn’t care. YIELD: 4 or more servings

2 pounds boneless stewing lamb, well trimmed and cut into 1-inch chunks Salt and ground black pepper to taste ½ cup olive oil 1 28-ounce can plum tomatoes 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon dried tarragon 6 fresh cilantro leaves, chopped 1 beef bouillon cube 2 bay leaves 4 medium potatoes, peeled and quartered ½ pound pumpkin, peeled and cut into bite-size pieces 1. Wash lamb and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Heat oil in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven. Add lamb and brown over moderate heat (about 4 minutes). Pour off fat from kettle. 4. Add tomatoes with the liquid, onion, garlic, oregano, tarragon, cilantro, bouillon cube and bay leaves. Stir to combine. 5. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low heat for 1 hour. 6. Add potatoes and pumpkin. Cook for 30 minutes more. WINE: Valpolicella.

CORNERO RELLENO (STUFFED LAMB)

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amb can be stuffed with savories. For this, the best bet is breast of lamb skewered together and roasted on a rack. The filling can consist of seasoned bread crumbs, seafood or, as we do it here, mushrooms and olives. YIELD: 4 servings

2 breasts of lamb, about 1½ pounds 6 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon olive oil 1 tablespoon white vinegar 2 tablespoons butter or margarine ½ pound fresh mushrooms, washed and sliced 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped ½ medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 8 pimento stuffed Spanish olives ¼ teaspoon powdered thyme 1. Preheat oven to 325°F. 2. Rinse lamb in cold water and pat dry with paper towels. 3. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt. Blend in olive oil and vinegar. 4. Rub seasoning into breasts of lamb. Set aside. 5. Melt butter or margarine in a skillet or frying pan. Add mushrooms, onion, bell pepper, olives and thyme. Sauté over moderate heat until onion is tender (about 5 minutes). 6. Place one lamb breast on a rack with a baking pan underneath. Spread filling over lamb. Place second lamb breast on top and secure together with toothpicks. 7. Bake for 2½ to 3 hours or until meat is crisp and tender with all the fat accumulating in the pan drippings.

8. Arrange on a serving platter, discard toothpicks and cut along rib bones into 4 serving pieces. Serve with white rice. WINE: Pommard (poh-marr), a big red Burgundy. Serve at room temperature.

CORNERO AL OTRO DÍA (LEFTOVER LAMB)

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he name says it all. This is for that leftover lamb you don’t know what to do with. Let’s say you’re stuck with that lamb roast the day after. You can make sandwiches or you can whip up this particular fare. YIELD: 4 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 3 cups cooked lamb, cubed 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon fresh basil, chopped Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 teaspoon white vinegar 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 1. Heat oil in large skillet or frying pan. 2. Add onion and garlic. Sauté over moderate heat until onion is tender. 3. Mix in the lamb, oregano, basil, salt and pepper. 4. Stir in vinegar and tomato sauce. Cook on low heat for about 5 minutes. Serve with whatever’s available. WINE: Burgundy.

CABRO BORRACHO (DRUNKEN GOAT)

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did not make up the name for this recipe. This is Uncle Phillip’s doing. The dish was one of his specialties; and it calls for goat meat which is prepared in much the same manner as lamb. Both my uncles claimed that goat meat is more tender than beef. I think what they meant is that, when cooked, goat is a softer meat than beef. Be cognizant that before cooking, goat meat has a gamey odor to it. It must be washed in vinegar or lemon juice and marinated for several hours or, better still, overnight. This recipe calls for beer in the simmering. A light lager beer must be used. Heavy, dark ales are not recommended. They’re better for savoring in the glass. Some folks use wine instead of beer. Uncle Phillip never cooked this entrée with wine. But he did mention that in parts of Africa they simmer the goat meat in rum. Now that’s what I call a real drunken goat. The best part of the goat is the loin section. Goat meat can be found in Caribbean markets or you can order it from your local butcher. YIELD: 4 or more servings

3 pounds goat meat, trimmed and cut into 1-inch chunks ½ cup white vinegar or lemon juice Salt and ground black pepper to taste 3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 1 tablespoon dried oregano ½ cup olive oil 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 6 fresh cilantro leaves, chopped 1 bay leaf

2 12-ounce cans lager beer 4 medium potatoes, peeled and quartered 6 carrots, peeled and quartered 1. Rinse meat under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Sprinkle meat chunks with vinegar or lemon juice. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. 3. Drain, rinse again with cold water and pat dry with paper towels. 4. Season with salt, pepper, garlic and oregano. 5. Heat oil in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven. Add goat meat and brown evenly on moderate heat (about 4 minutes). 6. Add tomato sauce, onion, cilantro, bay leaves and beer. Stir to combine. 7. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low heat for 1 hour or until fork-tender. 8. Add potatoes and carrots. Cook another 30 minutes. If the sauce is not thick enough, uncover and cook until sauce thickens. Serve over rice or on its own with crusty bread. WINE: Volnay (Vo-nay) is another of those fine wines of Burgundy not well known on this side of the pond. It’s a good

value for its price. The best of the lot comes from the Caillerets vineyard. Serve at room temperature.

FRICASÉ PE CABRO (GOAT MEAT FRICASSÉE)

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n our idiom, we use two words to describe goat. Either chivo or cabro. Both mean the same. Chivo (chee-voh) is the slang term. How it came about, I do not know. Thus my folks referred to goat meat fricassee as chivo fricassee. Uncle Phillip’s drunken goat may be called chivo borracho instead of cabro borracho, and so on. To add to the confusion, there’s the issue of young kid meat, as in a young goat. When we talk of tender kid meat, we refer to a cabrito (or cabrita). Be it chivo or cabro, the recipe is delicious, with either tender kid meat or goat meat. The only problems I know of have to do with talking about it. Talk of cooking kid meat and our younger friends conjure up images of dewy eyed little creatures ready for the slaughter. The same people will not eat rabbit since they recall that pet rabbit they once owned back in school. Reminds me of that classic chapter in Pearl Buck’s The Good Earth where the family is starving to death yet they balk at killing the farm ox since it’s become like one of the family. Understandable sentiments. Still doesn’t take away from the fact that the recipe is quite tasty.

YIELD: 5 servings

3 pounds goat meat, trimmed and cut into 1-inch cubes 1 large onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 3 ají dulce (sweet chili peppers), seeded and chopped 2 bay leaves 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 cup olive oil

1 teaspoon salt ¼ cup tomato sauce 1 chicken bouillon cube, dissolved into 3 tablespoons warm water 6 pimento stuffed Spanish olives 3 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks ½ cup dry white wine 1. Rinse meat under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. Sprinkle meat chunks with vinegar or lemon juice. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. 3. Drain, rinse again with cold water and pat dry with paper towels. 4. Place meat in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven and add onion, garlic, ají dulce, bay leaves, bell pepper, oregano and olive oil. Mix well. 5. Cover and place in the refrigerator for 10 to 15 minutes. 6. Return kettle to stove and add 2 cups water. Cover and cook on moderate-high heat for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. 7. Add salt, tomato sauce, dissolved chicken bouillon, olives, potatoes and wine. Stir to combine. Cook 30 minutes more. WINE: Cabernet Franc (Cab-air-nay Frawn) is a grape which is used in Bordeaux as a blend with Cabernet Sauvignon

and Merlot. Some wineries in France’s Loire Valley have experimented with Cabernet Franc as a varietal. In California there has also been a concerted effort to provide 100 percent Cabernet Franc. But the best results have come from New York State, particularly Long Island and the Hudson Valley area. For a good native Cabernet Franc I would suggest the one put out by Millbrook Vineyards.

RICE

And there are as many ways to make a rice dish as there are cooks on this planet. o my father, rice was the be-all and end-all of Caribbean cooking. He was one of those individuals who had to savor rice every day. He was not alone. I have an Italian friend, Anthony, whose forebears hail from southern Italy and, guess what, he can’t live without his daily bowl of rice. It’s “ingrained” in them, this penchant for a staple that, oddly enough in Ancient Rome, the soldiers would throw away since they had to eat it raw. They didn’t have enough sense to boil the stuff.

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I like rice, but I do not share this mania. I couldn’t see eating it every day. It’s the same as chocolate. I love it but I couldn’t take a steady diet of it. Where my fellow Latinos are concerned, I could be in the minority within the minority. Nuyoricans as well as islanders cannot do without this grain either as a side dish or in its many incarnations, be it arroz con pollo, saffron rice, yellow rice or even black rice (rice and squid). What is fascinating about rice is that there are so many varieties, over 7,000 in fact. I was weaned on the traditional long grain variety. But there’s Arborio (short grain), basmati (Indian), wild rice (which is not a true rice but a water grass), brown rice (unprocessed), round grain rice, ad infinitum. And there are as many ways to make a basic rice dish as there are cooks on this planet. When I began my research I was amazed and delighted to discover that risottos are so popular in northern Italy, or that in Iran they have a version of our chicken and rice that includes dates and nuts, or that in Indian cuisine pilaf rice may be combined with coconut milk. This does not even begin to address rice’s versatility. Rice kernels are used in making such entities as wine, beer and spirits. There’s also rice paper made from this cultivated seed, which in Asia is used to make sandals, hats and thatched roofs. No other foodstuff has so many uses. Of course our purview is more limited. We aren’t going to have any rice paper recipes here. But the rice recipes we do include combine all the diverse influences that have made this commodity indispensable. This journey began for us the same as for everyone else connected with the product be they Asian, European, African or Caribbean. It concerned two salient features: availability and price. Rice was cheap during the Spanish occupation of Puerto Rico; and it’s still relatively cheap today. That, plus ease of cooking, endeared it to our cuisine. From the lowly side dish to the main course as featured in a seafood and meat laden paella, the love affair has evolved and deepened. I guess I shouldn’t really be so hard on people like my dad who couldn’t do without their arroz. It’s like the fixation that some of us have for pasta. Yet even in that comparison, rice, I believe, has the edge. We manage to create rice desserts. Try making a rigatoni pudding and see what you get. A matter of individual preference. Still, to some true believers, a Latino meal without a rice serving would be incomplete; almost like that old tune about love and marriage. Some

would say that’s carrying it a bit far, yet it’s apt. If you don’t think so, ask my friend Anthony or any of his cronies.

ARROZ BLANCO (WHITE RICE)

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kay, let’s start with plain boiled rice. It’s amazing how such a seemingly simple thing can cause a revolution in our family. My mother had her way of doing it; my aunts had their way of preparing it; both my uncles had their way of cooking it; and no two people agree. I once had a relationship blow up in my face because the young lady and I could not come to terms on the proper way to simmer rice. We all agree on one thing though—we do not follow the method given on the back of the box, be it for steamed rice or microwave. If nothing else, this shows ingenuity on all our parts. I list three ways to accomplish this task. The recipes given are (in order of appearance): my mother’s version; my Aunt Fanny’s (and Uncle Carlos); and my cousin Yvonne’s method. Take your pick. In all cases we use long grain rice. Most Nuyorican families have one special pot or kettle for cooking rice. It could be anything from a casserole dish to a saucepan. Usually it’s a caldera, a heavy cast aluminum pot that comes in various sizes. It can be found in what’s left of the Marqueta (see 13 in the introduction) or any ethnic store. The caldera, after frequent use, attains a darkened color, similar to what happens to a Chinese wok after years of use. What we find endearing about the caldera is that it’s excellent for making what we call pegao. Since we usually add olive oil to the rice, the grains at the bottom of the pot have a tendency to stick. And it’s this crust, or pegao, that, to some of us, is the best part of the rice. Pegao with simple gravy over it is scrumptiuous. For some reason, kids especially go ape over it. I figure pegao reminds them of Rice Krispies.

RECIPE I (MY MOTHER’S METHOD): YIELD: 2 servings for big eaters; 3 servings for light eaters

1 cup rice 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 teaspoons salt 1. Wash 1 cup rice at least three times in cold water and drain to rid it of starch. What in Pennsylvania Dutch country is known as “washing in several waters.” 2. In a heavy kettle or pot, heat 2 cups water with 2 teaspoons salt. 3. When water is at a rolling boil, add rice. Stir and bring to a second boil. 4. Let it cook, uncovered, at high heat until water is absorbed (about 5 to 8 minutes). 5. Add 3 tablespoons olive oil. Stir and simmer, covered, on low heat for 10 minutes more or until tender. NOTE: This method results in a firmer, chewier grain.

RECIPE II (AUNT FANNY’S METHOD): YIELD: 4 servings for big eaters; 6 servings for light eaters

2 cups rice 3 tablespoons olive oil Salt to taste 1. Wash 2 cups rice and drain to rid of starch. 2. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy kettle or pot. Add rice and stir until grains are opaque. 3. Add water to cover rice by ¼ to ½ inch. Add salt to taste. 4. Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer, on low heat, until water is absorbed (about 20 minutes).

RECIPE III (COUSIN YVONNE’S METHOD): YIELD: 4 servings for big eaters; 6 servings for light eaters

2 cups rice 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 teaspoons salt 1. Wash 2 cups rice and drain to rid of starch. 2. Bring 4 cups water with 2 tablespoons salt to a rolling boil. 3. Add rice plus 3 tablespoons olive oil. Stir and bring to a second boil. Cover and simmer on low heat until water is absorbed (20 to 30 minutes). 4. Uncover and continue cooking for 5 minutes more.

RECIPE IV (OVEN METHOD): This exercise would not be complete if it didn’t include baked rice. I first came across this method years ago when I worked in a restaurant called Equus on the East Side. The restaurant is long gone, but the head chef used to insist that this was the most foolproof way to make rice. At the time I thought it was a bit farfetched, but it does work. Saffron rice, yellow rice, etc., can all be done this way. This method is not traditional to Nuyorican cooking but it has its merits. YIELD: 4 servings for big eaters; 6 servings for light eaters

2 cups rice 3 cups chicken broth or bouillon 3 tablespoons corn or vegetable oil Salt to taste Pepper to taste 1 bay leaf 1 tablespoon butter 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Wash 2 cups rice and drain. 3. Heat 3 tablespoons corn or vegetable oil in a heavy saucepan. Add rice and stir over low heat until the grains are coated (about 3 minutes). 4. Add 3 cups chicken broth or bouillon, salt and pepper to taste, and a bay leaf. 5. Bring to a boil, cover tightly and place in the oven. 6. Bake for exactly 17 minutes. 7. Remove from oven and discard bay leaf. Dot with tablespoon of butter and fluff with a fork.

ARROZ CON HABICHUELAS (RICE AND BEANS)

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n this effort we use small red beans; but any kind of dry bean can be used. One can use red kidney beans, navy beans, pinto beans, black eyed peas or black beans. Rice and beans is standard fare in the Caribbean, Central and Latin America. As a combination it’s cheap and nutritious. In a cantina in Mexico it might be arroz con frijoles and in Peru it may be arroz con granos, but the meaning is the same—something to tide you over on lean days as well as on days of plenty. YIELD: 8 servings

1 pound small red beans, soaked overnight and cooked tender (see recipe on page 239) 3 cups rice 3 tablespoons olive oil ¼ pound salted pork, washed and diced 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1. Drain cooked beans and set aside but reserve 3 cups cooking liquid. 2. Wash rice under cold running water and drain. 3. Heat oil in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven. Brown salt pork. Add onion and bell pepper, and sauté for 3 minutes. 4. Stir in the rice. Add beans and reserve liquid. Mix and add salt, pepper and oregano. 5. Boil, uncovered, on moderate heat until water is absorbed and rice is dry (about 4 to 5 minutes). 6. Cover and simmer on low heat for 30 minutes. 7. Turn off heat and let the rice sit for 10 minutes before serving.

ARROZ AMARILLO (YELLOW RICE)

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oday, making yellow rice is quite simple. You don’t even need saffron anymore. You can find prepackaged yellow rice in any supermarket. You can do the dish yourself instantly and dazzle your friends. Packets of what is called sazón are readily available. Just pour it into the boiling rice and presto, instant arroz amarillo. In the old days we used to cut corners by adding bijol, the condiment that was briefly described in the introduction (see page 10). For those of us diehards, none of these products will do. They save time, but all you get is various chemicals mixed together with a manufactured taste. I borrow a page from my Uncle Carlos’ book, who only prepared yellow rice from scratch. If you’ve got the sofrito and achiote already made then it doesn’t take more time than the processed stuff. And yes, there is a difference in flavor. Now, even with the traditionalists, there’s a bone of contention. Both tomato sauce and tomato paste can be used to impart color to the rice. The prevailing viewpoint is thus: tomato paste gives the rice a better color. Depending on how much you use it can go from a mild yellow to a rosy hue. Tomato sauce imparts a better flavor but not as deep a color. But even with tomato sauce, if you use too much you’ll have red rice. It should be noted that adding lean cured ham and achiote to the arroz amarillo is optional. You can also dispense with both ingredients and still have a fairly tasty dish. YIELD: 4 or more servings

2 cups rice 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 ounces lean cured ham, rinsed under cold water and diced 2 tablespoons sofrito (see page 9) ½ cup tomato sauce 1 tablespoon achiote (see page 10) 2 teaspoons salt 1. Wash rice and drain to rid of starch. 2. In a heavy kettle or pot, heat oil and cook ham on moderate heat until crisp and rendered of fat (about 3 or 4 minutes). 3. Add sofrito, tomato sauce and achiote. Sauté for about 5 minutes. 4. Stir in rice so that it attains a uniform color. Add water to cover rice by ¼ to ½ inch. Add salt and bring to a second boil.

5. Cover and simmer on low heat until water is absorbed and rice is tender (about 20 to 30 minutes).

ARROZ CON GANDULES (RICE WITH PIGEON PEAS)

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f rice and beans is the standard, then rice with pigeon peas is the accompaniment of choice for those special dinners during the holidays. There wasn’t a home in the Barrio at Christmas in the old days that didn’t have a steaming pot of arroz con gandules to go with the pasteles (meat pies) and pernil (roast pork shoulder; see page 191). Arroz con gandules always signals the start of a celebration. You can either prepare gandules from scratch (follow bean recipe on page 241); or you can cheat by substituting canned pigeon peas. You may have to doctor the canned peas somewhat, but who’s to know? In most cases, arroz con gandules is prepared as a side dish. YIELD: 8 servings

1 pound pigeon peas, soaked overnight and cooked until tender (see page 241) or use 1 pound canned peas 2 cups rice 3 tablespoons olive oil ¼ pound salt pork, rinsed under cold water and diced ¼ pound lean cured ham, rinsed under cold water and diced 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro 3 tablespoons sofrito (see page 9) 1 cup alcaparrado (olive-caper mix available in Spanish markets) 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 2 tablespoons dry white wine Salt to taste 1. Drain cooked peas and set aside, reserving 2 cups cooking liquid. 2. Wash rice and drain. 3. Heat oil in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven. Brown salt pork. 4. Add ham and cook on moderate heat until golden crisp (about 4 to 5 minutes). 5. Add onion, bell pepper, cilantro, sofrito, alcaparrado and tomato sauce. Sauté for about 5 minutes.

6. Stir in rice. Add peas, reserved cooking liquid, wine and salt. 7. Boil on moderate-high heat, uncovered, until water is absorbed (about 5 to 8 minutes). 8. Cover and simmer on low heat for 30 minutes. 9. Turn off heat and let rice sit for 10 minutes before serving.

FROM SALT COD TO CHORIZO

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he following typical rice recipes feature everything from salt cod to chorizo. Most often, they are served as side dishes. With pepper rice one can use red bell peppers, green peppers or a combination thereof. Next is curried rice, very popular in India and Asia. Then we have mushroom rice which is considered more continental in style. If you want to use canned mushrooms, go ahead. For arroz con chorizo we use spicy Spanish sausages which are sundried and come in tins ranging from 5 to 48 ounces. In the old days bodega owners kept an open can of chorizos on the counter and scooped out whatever amount was needed for each customer. Rice and salt cod need no explanation. We’ve already sung cod’s praises (see page 99). Green rice, though, is an unusual endeavor, just like green eggs and ham. This rice is popular in parts of Latin America. The color is attained by using either spinach or green pimentos. Some prefer to use the oven method when preparing this dish (see page 221). We stick to the traditional mode, cooking it atop the stove.

ARROZ CON CEBOLLA (ONION RICE) YIELD: 6 servings

2 cups rice 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 medium onions, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 1 chicken bouillon cube 1 bay leaf Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Wash rice at least three times and drain. 2. Heat oil in a heavy kettle or pot and sauté onions and garlic over moderate heat until onions are translucent (about 3 to 4 minutes). 3. Add rice and cook, stirring, until grains are opaque (about 3 minutes). 4. Add water until it covers rice by ¼ to ½ inch. Add bouillon, bay leaf, salt and pepper. Stir to combine. 5. Boil on moderate-high heat, uncovered, until water is absorbed (5 to 8 minutes). 6. Cover and cook on low heat for 15 minutes. 7. Remove bay leaf and fluff rice with a fork.

ARROZ CON PIMIENTO (PEPPER RICE) YIELD: 6 servings

2 cups rice 1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 1 chicken bouillon cube 1 bay leaf Salt and ground black pepper to taste NOTE: Follow steps 1 through 7 as described for onion rice, but substitute the peppers for the onions.

ARROZ CON POLVO DE CURRY (CURRIED RICE) YIELD: 6 servings

2 cups rice 3 tablespoons olive oil ½ cup finely chopped onions 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 1 teaspoon curry powder (or to taste) 2 tablespoons black raisins 1 bay leaf 1 chicken bouillon cube Salt to taste 1 teaspoon chopped fresh Italian parsley 1. Wash rice and drain. 2. In a heavy kettle or pot, heat oil and sauté onions and garlic until onions are translucent (about 3 to 4 minutes). 3. Add rice and cook, stirring, until rice is opaque. 4. Add water to cover rice by ¼ to ½ inch. Add curry, raisins, bay leaf, bouillon cube and salt. Stir to combine. 5. Bring to a boil. Cover tightly and simmer on low heat for 20 minutes or until tender. 6. Remove bay leaf and fluff rice with a fork. Sprinkle with chopped parsley before serving. NOTE: 2 tablespoons ground cumin can be substituted for the curry powder, resulting in arroz con cumino or cumin rice.

ARROZ CON HONGO (MUSHROOM RICE) YIELD: 6 servings

2 cups rice 3 tablespoons olive oil ½ cup finely chopped onions 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced ½ pound fresh mushrooms, washed and cut into small cubes (about 2 cups) Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 chicken bouillon cube 1 teaspoon chopped fresh Italian parsley 1. Wash rice and drain. 2. In a heavy kettle or pot, heat the oil and sauté onions and garlic on moderate heat until onions are translucent. 3. Stir in mushrooms and cook about 3 minutes. Add rice and mix. 4. Add water to cover rice by ¼ to ½ inch. Add salt, pepper and bouillon cube. Stir to combine. 5. Boil on moderate-high heat, uncovered, until all liquid is absorbed. 6. Cover tightly and simmer on low heat for 15 minutes. 7. Sprinkle with parsley before serving.

ARROZ CON CHORIZO (RICE AND SAUSAGE) YIELD: 6 servings

2 cups rice 3 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons sofrito (see page 9) ½ cup tomato sauce 2 chorizo sausages, sliced into ¼-inch rounds (see page 225) Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Wash rice and drain. 2. Heat oil in a heavy kettle or pot. Add sofrito and tomato sauce, and sauté for about 3 minutes. 3. Add chorizo and cook for 5 minutes. 4. Stir in rice. Add water to cover contents in pot by ¼ to ½ inch. Add salt and pepper. 5. Bring to a boil. Cover tightly and simmer on low heat until water is absorbed and rice is tender (20 minutes).

ARROZ CON BACALAO (RICE WITH CODFISH) YIELD: 6 servings

2 cups rice ¼ cup olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 2 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped ½ cup tomato sauce 2 tablespoons achiote (see page 10) ½ pound dried salt cod, prepared for cooking (see page 99) ¼ teaspoon ground white pepper 1. Wash rice at least three times and drain. 2. Heat oil in a heavy kettle or pot and sauté onion, garlic and ají dulce until onion is wilted. 3. Add tomato sauce and achiote, and stir in shredded cod. Cook on moderate heat for about 5 minutes. 4. Stir in rice and add water to cover contents in pot by ¼ to ½ inch. Season with white pepper. 5. Bring to a boil. Cover tightly and simmer on medium-low heat until all liquid is absorbed (about 15 minutes). 6. Uncover and cook on low heat for 5 minutes more.

ARROZ VERDE (GREEN RICE) YIELD: 6 servings

2 cups rice 2 medium green bell peppers, cored, seeded and chopped or 1 pound fresh spinach, washed and chopped 1 cup chopped Italian parsley 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons sofrito (see page 9) 1 chicken bouillon cube Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Wash rice and drain. 2. Blend bell peppers (or spinach), parsley and onion in an electric blender or food processor. Blend until it forms a smooth puree. 3. Heat oil in a heavy kettle or pot. Add sofrito and rice, and sauté for 5 minutes. 4. Pour in the purée. Add water to cover contents in pot by ¼ to ½ inch. Add bouillon cube, salt and pepper. Stir to combine. 5. Bring to a boil. Cover tightly and simmer on low heat until water is absorbed and rice is tender (about 20 minutes). 6. Dot with 1 tablespoon butter, fluff with a fork and serve.

ARROZ CON CALAMARES (RICE WITH SQUID)

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ere we go again. Squid. Cuttlefish. The words send mortals scurrying for a hiding place. We’ve already noted the benefits and wonders of squid (see page 119). But we did not mention that the most popular squid platter among islanders and Nuyoricans is arroz con calamares. It is also known as “black rice,” because of the dark color imparted to the grains as they cook with the squid and its ink. The twist here is that the rice will come out darker if canned squid is used. This has become a favorite dish of a dear friend, who happens to be German. Of course, when she first was exposed to it there was the haughty look and the frown, but once the taste asserted itself there was no turning back. The only beings I know who can resist the temptation of arroz con calamares are youngsters that reject everything that’s not peanut butter and jelly. We suspect that kids know a lot about human nature but they know squat about good food. Except for them, I’ve never met anyone who didn’t succumb to this dish once they gave it half a chance. YIELD: 6 servings

2 cups rice 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 ounces lean cured ham, rinsed and diced 1 small green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped ½ cup chopped onions 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 3 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped ½ cup tomato sauce 1 chicken bouillon cube 3 4-ounce cans squid in their ink 6 pimento stuffed Spanish olives Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Wash rice and drain. 2. Heat oil in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven and brown ham over moderate heat. 3. Add bell pepper, onions, garlic and ají dulce. Sauté for about 3 minutes. 4. Add tomato sauce and bouillon cube. 5. Stir in the squid, and add olives.

6. Stir in the rice and add water to cover contents in kettle by ¼ to ½ inch. Season with salt and pepper. 7. Bring to a boil. Cover tightly and simmer on low heat until liquid is absorbed (about 20 minutes). 8. If dried rice is preferred, uncover and simmer 5 minutes longer. WINE: Muscadet.

ARROZ CON JUEYES (RICE WITH CRABMEAT)

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y father’s favorite rice mix. When he returned to Puerto Rico, he spent countless hours seeking a restaurant with the best recipe. But none ever compared to my mother’s arroz con jueyes. This may be because some establishments used canned crabmeat and not the real honest to goodness Caribbean crabs. Where my parientes were concerned, there could be no substitute. YIELD: 6 servings

2 cups rice 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 ounces lean cured ham or salt pork, rinsed and diced 1 small green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped ½ cup finely chopped onions 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped 3 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped ½ cup tomato sauce 6 pimento stuffed Spanish olives 1 ½ cups boiled crabmeat (see recipe on pages 106) 2 tablespoons achiote (see page 10) Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Wash rice and drain. 2. Heat oil in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven and brown ham over moderate heat. 3. Add bell pepper, onions, garlic and ají dulce. Sauté for about 3 minutes. 4. Add tomato sauce, olives, and mix well. 5. Stir in rice, crabmeat and achiote. 6. Add water to cover contents in kettle by ¼ to ½ inch above level of rice. Adjust salt and pepper to taste. 7. Bring to a boil. Cover tightly and simmer on low heat until water is absorbed and rice is tender (about 20 minutes). 8. Uncover and simmer 5 minutes more if drier rice is preferred.

WINE: Sancerre (Sawn-sair) is a dry, refreshing white wine named for a town, and region, in the Loire Valley of France.

Served chilled.

ARROZ CON POLLO (RICE WITH CHICKEN)

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ome will argue that arroz con pollo is the most well known of Latino entrées. Probably more popular than paella. To others it’s just paella without the seafood and chorizos. Its saving grace is that it’s not that difficult to prepare, and you can fancy it up by adding sweet peas, pimento strips, assorted olives or whatever. Some rice with chicken recipes call for saffron, ground cumin or paprika to give the rice its color. We use tomato sauce and achiote. The preferred accompaniment to rice with chicken is stewed black beans (recipe on page 241). YIELD: 8 servings

3 cups rice 1 3-pound chicken, skinned and cut into serving pieces 8 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon oregano ½ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon white vinegar 3 ounces lean cured ham, rinsed and diced 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 3 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped ½ cup tomato sauce 1 chicken bouillon cube 6 pitted black olives 2 tablespoons achiote (see page 10) 1 8½-ounce can green peas (drained) or 1 10-ounce package frozen green peas 1. Wash rice and drain at least three times. 2. Rinse chicken pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 3. Place peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt in a mortar and pound until crushed. Blend in 2 tablespoons of olive oil, and vinegar.

4. Rub chicken pieces thoroughly with the seasoning. In our clan, if we’re in a rush, we let the chicken stand for 15 minutes before cooking, otherwise we marinate for several hours or overnight in the fridge. 5. Heat remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven and brown ham over moderate heat. Add onion, bell pepper and ají dulce. Sauté until onion is translucent. 6. Add tomato sauce, bouillon cube and olives. Stir to combine. 7. Add chicken pieces plus 2 cups water. Mix, lower heat to moderate-low and cook, covered, for 15 minutes. 8. Add rice and achiote. Add more water to cover contents in pot, if necessary. Mix well and simmer, covered, on low heat until rice is tender (about 30 minutes). 9. Stir in peas. Cover and cook 10 minutes more. WINE: Barbera, Beaujolais-Villages, Mâcon Blanc, Rose d’Anjou, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, and Champagne.

ARROZ DE PERSA (PERSIAN RICE)

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got this recipe years ago from coworkers from Syria. I subsequently discovered that this type of rice is popular throughout the Near and Middle East. Naturally, everyone claims it as their own. In Armenia, it’s called Armenian rice. In Syria it’s known as Syrian rice; in Iran, Iranian rice, and so on. The common point of agreement is that they all use thin-strand noodles like vermicelli or thin spaghetti. Following the Nuyorican influence, I like to add sweet peas to the rice; and sometimes olives and pimentos. Not what they would do in Tehran, I think; but what would be expected on 110th Street. YIELD: 3 to 4 servings

1 tablespoon corn, vegetable or olive oil ½ cup vermicelli or thin spaghetti, broken up into 1 to 2-inch pieces ½ teaspoon salt 1 chicken bouillon cube 1 cup rice 1 8½-ounce can green peas (drained) 1. Heat oil in skillet or saucepan. Add vermicelli and stir-fry until golden brown. 2. Add 1½ cup water, salt and bouillon cube. 3. Add rice and mix well. 4. Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer on low heat until water is absorbed (about 15 minutes). 5. Add peas and stir to combine. Cover again and simmer another 5 minutes.

ARROZ CON CARNE MOLIDA (RICE WITH GROUND BEEF)

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his is similar to picadillo (page 149) but here rice is mixed with everything else in what my father would call a sambúmbia, a sort of potluck dinner. The meat is cooked with various condiments, then the rice is added and the final effect is an all-in-one casserole. Whatever vegetables are on hand can be added, such as green beans, peas, corn or even zucchini. My Italian friends like to serve this dish topped with Parmesan cheese. My Latino brethren like to garnish it with sweet pepper strips. To each his own. YIELD: 6 servings

½ cup rice 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound ground beef or turkey 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 2 medium green bell peppers, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 teaspoon dried oregano 6 pimento stuffed Spanish olives 1 beef bouillon cube 1 8½-ounce can green peas (drained) or 1 10-ounce package frozen green peas 1. Wash rice at least three times in cold water and drain. Set aside. 2. Heat oil in a large skillet or frying pan. Add meat and brown rapidly over high heat until meat loses its red color. Drain excess pan drippings. 3. Add onion and garlic and cook over moderate heat until onion is transparent and meat is thoroughly cooked. 4. Add tomato sauce, bell pepper strips, salt, black pepper, oregano and olives. Stir in rice. Add water to cover contents in skillet. Bring to a boil and add bouillon cube. Stir, cover and simmer on low heat until water is absorbed (25 minutes). 5. Add peas and mix. Cook, covered, for 10 minutes more. WINE: Glen-Ellen winery in California produces a very affordable wine for everyday sipping, what the French would

term a vin ordinaire; although I would consider it a cut above that. They call it Proprietor’s Reserve Red, and it comes from the efforts of winemaker Bruce Rector.

PAELLA

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here isn’t a Latino household, and, I daresay many a North American household as well, that doesn’t have a paella recipe from somewhere. The Spaniards are credited with bringing paella to the New World. Experts claim that it is Catalan in origin, referring to Catalonia, the region in Northeast Spain that borders France. In Catalan literature, paella refers to a frying pan or pot. Indeed, in Spain they require a paellera, a special pan used exclusively to cook this culinary delight. Most paella recipes use saffron for inducing color and enhancing flavor. We go for the tomato sauce and achiote. Paella makes a fabulous party dish. It’s not the type of thing where shortcuts are advised although there are numerous paellita dishes where you can skimp here and there to feed 4 or less. The simplest paellita that I know is to make yellow rice (page 223), adding a couple of cooked chicken pieces and steaming some mussels and clams atop the rice. Good but not great. For real paella you have to go the whole nine yards with shrimp, lobster and whatever. Anything less just ain’t kosher. I skin the chicken pieces before cooking. However, the traditional approach is to leave the skin on. YIELD: 8 to 10 servings

3 pounds chicken pieces 10 whole black peppercorns 3 cloves garlic, peeled 2 teaspoons dried oregano 1 teaspoon salt ¼ cup olive oil plus 3 tablespoons 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 teaspoons paprika 2 medium onions, peeled and finely chopped 1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 3 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped 3 chorizo sausages, sliced into ¼-inch rounds (see page 225) ½ cup tomato sauce 1 chicken bouillon cube ¼ cup pitted black olives, sliced 3 cups rice, washed and drained 3 tablespoons achiote (see page 10)

1½ pounds whole baby clams (save clam juice—see sopa de pescade, page 54) or use 1 10- ounce can whole baby clams 12 to 15 raw mussels, scrubbed and debearded 1 10-ounce package frozen green peas 1½ pounds cooked lobster (see recipe on page 111), shell split, claws cracked and grey sack removed or 1 pound frozen lobster tail meat, without the shell 1½ pounds raw shrimp, shelled and deveined 1 6½-ounce jar pimentos, drained and cut into ½-inch strips 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley 1. Rinse chicken pieces under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 2. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt. Blend in ¼ cup olive oil, vinegar and paprika. 3. Rub chicken pieces thoroughly with seasoning. Place in a covered bowl and let marinate for a minimum of 30 minutes or, preferably, several hours. 4. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy kettle, Dutch oven or paellera, if you can find one (our family uses a big, cast-aluminum caldera). Add onions, bell pepper, ají dulce and chorizo. Sauté until onion is transparent. 5. Add tomato sauce, bouillon cube and olives. Stir to combine. 6. Add chicken pieces plus 2 cups water. Mix, lower heat to moderate-low and cook, covered, for 15 minutes. 7. Add rice and achiote. If necessary, add more water to cover contents in pot. Mix well. Cover and simmer on low heat until liquid is absorbed and rice is tender (25 to 30 minutes). 8. While rice is cooking, strain clam juice over a cloth to get rid of sand or drain liquid from canned clams. Combine this liquid with water so that it measures 2 cups. Pour this into a pot or heavy skillet with a tight fitting lid. Add mussels and lightly steam 2 to 5 minutes or until they open. Remove with slotted spoon, set aside and keep warm. 9. Add peas to rice-chicken mix and stir. Continue cooking on low heat for 10 minutes. 10. Meanwhile, remove the lobster meat from shell and claws and cut into 1-inch pieces. 11. Add lobster, clams and shrimp to rice and mix well. Arrange mussles around the rim of the pot and in the center. Cover and cook 10 minutes more. 12. Remove from heat, garnish with pimento strips and sprinkle with parsley. Serve immediately at table.

WINE: A good, dry white such as a Frascati, Chablis or Graves. For a red: Rioja, Barbera, Burgundy or Zinfandel.

ARROZ CON GANDULES Y CARNE DE CERDO (RICE WITH PIGEON PEAS AND PORK) YIELD: 5 servings

1 pound dry pigeon peas 2 cups rice ½ cup olive oil 1½ pounds boneless pork, cut into ½-inch cubes ¼ pound lean cured ham, washed and diced ½ cup tomato sauce 2 tablespoons sofrito (see page 9) 1 leaf recao, chopped (see page 10) 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt 1. Pick over peas, discarding any broken or shriveled ones. 2. Soak overnight in water to cover. Next day, drain and rinse in cold water. 3. Place peas in a pot with 2 quarts (8 cups) water. Cover and boil on moderate heat for 30 minutes or until almost tender. 4. Wash rice and drain at least 3 times. 5. In a heavy kettle or Dutch oven, heat oil and brown pork over high heat. 6. Lower heat to medium, cover and cook for 5 minutes. 7. Stir in ham, tomato sauce, sofrito, recao, oregano and salt. 8. Add rice, pigeon peas and 2 cups hot water. Mix well. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer on moderate-low heat for 30 minutes. WINE: The Bairrada region of Portugal has been producing wines since Roman times. These red wines are obtained

almost exclusively from Baga grapes which render a medium, full bodied dry wine with a fine bouquet. Caves Alianca Reserva is a good example of this type of wine. Serve at room temperature.

BEANS AND LEGUMES

But apart from nutritional value beans are hailed as a “comfort food.” es, beans are good for the heart. This is not a facetious comment. It’s based on medical fact. For years nutritionists have lauded the lowly bean as a good source of thiamine, niacin and other components of the vitamin B complex series. But apart from nutritional value, beans are hailed as a “comfort food.” The French fight off the rigors of the day with a hearty cassoulet casserole; in Mexico one cannot do without refried beans; many a cocktail party would be bereft unless there was a white-bean salad to complement the hors d’oeuvres; the Middle East would be less exotic without hummus; and how could Bostonians survive without those famous baked beans. In Greece you’ll find white beans served with lamb; in India you’ll come across kidney beans cooked with pepper flakes, cardamon and lemon juice; Palestinians serve fava beans with lemon and garlic. Lamb shanks would be mediocre without Beans a la Breton. We are fortunate in that beans are found worldwide. And no wonder, beans have been with us since the Bronze Age.

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What sets beans apart is that not only are they nourishing but they’re economical. Also, the varieties involved are endless. Still, there’s a dispute as to the correct way to soften beans for cooking. The traditionalists (and I count myself among this group) say that to properly cook beans they should be soaked overnight in cool water. The modernists contend that overnight soaking really isn’t necessary. They defer to quick-soaking: the beans are placed in a pot with water to cover then cooked for 2 minutes in boiling water. Finally, they are left to stand 1 hour. You can choose either method to prepare your dish. Or else trot over to the local supermarket and pick up canned beans. If you doctor them properly, no one will know the difference. In the Latino community, whether they’re called habichuelas, frijoles or granos, most meals are not considered complete without a serving of legumes either as a side dish or meal in itself.

BASIC BEAN RECIPE For Black Beans, Red Kidney Beans, Pigeon Peas, Small Red Beans, Lima Beans, Pinto Beans, Black-Eyed Peas, Pink Beans, Chick Peas

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f you’re lucky enough to find fresh beans, then you’re ahead of the game. Fresh beans or legumes, to use the more correct term, are easier to cook than dry beans and some of my acquaintances claim you can actually taste the difference in flavor. I’ve had both fresh and dried beans and to me, if properly seasoned, both are equally satisfying. But as noted in the introduction, dry beans need to be soaked beforehand in water. Be aware that the package of dry beans you pick up at the supermarket could be older (and drier) than last year’s leftover meatloaf. So it follows, the more soaking time, the more tender the final product. That’s why I recommend overnight soaking as opposed to the quick-soaking method. (If using beans from a can, the same recipe applies. But it will taste better doing it the hard way.) Dry beans come in 1 pound packages. Place beans in a colander, discarding any broken or shriveled ones. Rinse under cold running water. Then place beans in a pot with cool water to cover at least 2 inches. Never use warm or hot water. In extremely hot weather it is a good idea to soak the beans in the fridge. Ideally, one should change the water several times to prevent the beans from fermenting. After overnight or quick soaking, drain beans and place in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven with 2 quarts (8 cups) water and bring to a boil. Cover and boil over moderate-low heat until beans are almost tender (about 1 hour). From here you can finish up either of two ways:

A. SOFRITO METHOD YIELD: The above recipes serve 6 to 8

1. Add 1 large potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes; 3 tablespoons sofrito (see page 9); 1 beef bouillon cube; 1 teaspoon salt; ½ teaspoon dried oregano; and ¼ cup tomato sauce. (My mother always added 2 tablespoons dry red wine at this point—a tip she got from a Cuban friend). Mix well. 2. Cover and cook over high heat until water is boiling. This should take 5 to 10 minutes. 3. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes or until beans are completely tender and sauce has thickened somewhat.

B. SKILLET METHOD 1. Place the beans in a pot and boil in 2 quarts (8 cups) water as outlined above; but add half a medium green bell pepper, seeded, to water. 2. In a skillet or frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped; 1 clove garlic, crushed; 1 teaspoon dried oregano; ½ cup tomato sauce; and 1 tablespoon tomato paste. Sauté on moderate heat for 5 minutes. 3. Add skillet contents to beans plus 1 large potato, peeled and cubed, and ½ teaspoon salt. Mix well. 4. Cover and cook over high heat until water is boiling (5 to 10 minutes). 5. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes or until beans are completely tender and sauce has thickened.

C. OVEN METHOD There is also an oven method for cooking beans that is very popular in Italy, particularly in Tuscany. The beans are soaked overnight in the same manner, then rinsed and placed in a pot or casserole. The rest of the recipe is as follows: YIELD: 6 servings

1. Preheat oven to 275°F. 2. Add 1 small onion, chopped, to the beans and water to cover by ½ inch. 3. Cover and bring the water to a near boil over low heat. 4. Place the pot in the oven and bake until beans are tender (45 minutes to 1 hour). Make sure that the water does not evaporate during cooking to below the level of the beans. 5. Remove from oven and add salt and pepper to taste. Let stand for about 10 minutes. 6. Drizzle a tablespoon or two of olive oil over the beans and serve.

HABICHUELAS BLANCAS CON CALABAZA (WHITE BEANS COOKED WITH PUMPKIN)

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hite kidney beans follow the same steps in cooking as the basic bean recipe (see page 241). The difference is that we add pumpkin pieces to the mix.

YIELD: 6 to 8 servings

1 pound dry white kidney beans ½ pound pumpkin, peeled, seeded and cut into bite-size pieces 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 small onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 small green bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 3 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped ½ cup tomato sauce 1 beef bouillon cube ½ teaspoon salt (or to taste) 1. Pick over beans and soak overnight. 2. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Place in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven with 2 quarts (8 cups) fresh water and pumpkin. Bring to a boil, cover and boil on moderate-low heat until beans are tender (about 1 hour). 3. Heat olive oil in a skillet or frying pan. Sauté onion, bell pepper, garlic and ají dulce over moderate heat until tender. 4. Add tomato sauce and cook 3 minutes. 5. Add sauce mixture to beans plus bouillon cube. Stir to combine. 6. Add salt, cover and bring to a boil on high heat. 7. Reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes.

PITIPUAS GUISADAS CON CHORIZO (STEWED GREEN PEAS WITH SAUSAGE)

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ur name for green peas is pitipuas. This is a corruption of the French, petit pois. Even today, in the local bodega, you’ll find some old-timers looking for pitipuas to go with the rice. Again, as with other legumes, you can save time by using canned peas; but in this case, the results won’t be the same. YIELD: 6 servings

1 pound dry green peas 1 teaspoon salt ½ cup olive oil 3 chorizo sausages, sliced into ¼-inch rounds (see page 225) 2 tablespoons sofrito (see page 9) ¼ cup tomato sauce 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ pound pumpkin, peeled, seeded and cut into bite-size pieces 1. Soak peas overnight in a pot with water to cover. 2. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Place in heavy kettle or Dutch oven with 3 cups fresh water and salt. Boil, covered, over moderate-high heat for 20 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, in a skillet or frying pan, heat olive oil. Add chorizo and stir-fry on moderate heat for 5 minutes. 4. Add sofrito, tomato sauce and oregano. Sauté another 5 minutes. 5. Add sofrito mix and pumpkin to green peas. 6. Stir, cover and cook for 20 minutes or until sauce has thickened. 7. Serve with white rice. WINE: Monterey Vineyard produces a Classic Red vintage table wine made from the best grapes chosen from each

vintage. Pleasant and full-bodied. Serve at room temperature.

LENTEJAS FRESCAS CON CHORIZO (LENTILS WITH SAUSAGE)

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resh lentils can be hard to find. But if you can get hold of some, they’re worth it. They look similar to the dried variety, except they’re slightly larger and greener. YIELD: 6 to 8 servings

2 cups fresh lentils (or dried lentils soaked overnight) 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 chorizo sausages, sliced into ¼-inch rounds (see page 225) 1 medium onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 3 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped 6 fresh cilantro leaves, chopped 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce 1 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon black ground pepper 1 bay leaf 1. Pick over lentils, discarding broken or shriveled ones. Rinse under cold running water. 2. Place lentils in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven with 4½ cups water. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer on moderate-low heat for 45 minutes. 3. While lentils are cooking, heat oil in a skillet or frying pan. Add chorizo and cook over moderate heat until browned (about 5 minutes). 4. Add onion, garlic, ají dulce, cilantro, tomato sauce, salt, pepper and bay leaf. Sauté another 5 minutes. 5. Add skillet contents to lentils. Check water level, adding more liquid if necessary. Cook, uncovered, 30 minutes more or until sauce has thickened somewhat.

GANDULES FRESCOS GUISADOS (STEWED FRESH PIGEON PEAS) YIELD: 6 servings

1 pound fresh pigeon peas ½ pound pumpkin, peeled, seeded and cut into bite-size pieces 2 teaspoons salt 2 tablespoons sofrito (see page 9) 1 chicken bouillon cube 1. Pick over peas, discarding broken or shriveled ones. Rinse peas under cold running water. 2. Place peas in a heavy kettle or Dutch oven with 6 cups fresh water. 3. Add pumpkin and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer on moderate-low heat for 1 hour. 4. Add salt, sofrito and bouillon cube. Cook, uncovered, for 30 minutes more or until liquid thickens to taste.

EGGS

On Sunday it was eggs sunny side up with ripe plantains or baby bananas. hen I was a tyke, eggs were not just for breakfast. They were for any time. On lean days there’d be eggs and rice, or eggs with cheese and butter over spaghetti. On Sundays it was eggs sunny side up with ripe plantains or baby bananas. Even into my adulthood, one way to break the ice at a multicultural, multi-racial gathering was with a huge potato omelet or Spanish tortilla. We couldn’t get enough of the things.

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This spilled over into my service time. Whenever we were assigned to what is called garrison duty, or duty at a base area, it was mounds and mounds of eggs being consumed from early morning to early afternoon. Scrambled eggs were the norm, with whatever ingredients we could put in them. My best recollection of this time is of a guy called Harris, who I met at Yokosuka Naval Hospital in Japan. This installation was one of the drop-off points for those of us who had been severely shot up in the bush. Once Harris was mobile and could make it to the base dining area, he would devour (that’s the only way to describe it) half a dozen eggs at one sitting, seven days a week. The rest of us would marvel at it. In the time he was there, Harris must have depleted the egg supply in Japan by one-third. Of course, his breakfast would also include the usual pancakes, French toast, sausage links, cereal and all the rest. The guy was thin as a rail. We’ve all come across the type at one time or another: the skinny glutton with a monstrous metabolism. Seems that Harris, being a Southern boy, had not come across an egg or worn shoes until he joined the Marine Corps. And he had had a revelation when he got hit somewhere in the Mekong Delta. When those AK47 rounds dug into his thigh he decided then and there that life was short and he would eat all the eggs he could before his final reckoning. But then we couldn’t figure out, why eggs? Why not ice cream sundaes? or chocolate? or sex? or booze?—the usual fixations. No, with Harris it was just omelets or hard-boiled, par boiled, whatever egg dish was available. Six at a time, day after day. Is it safe eating eggs today? Not the Harris way it isn’t. The harsh reality is that egg yolks do contain a high level of cholesterol. We Riveras do not eat eggs on a daily basis anymore. My uncles had to watch their fat intake, limiting egg consumption to two a month. Some in my family have stopped eating eggs altogether—which I think is rather extreme. I’m no medical expert, but an egg now and then isn’t going to hurt you.

HUEVOS HERVIDOS (BOILED EGGS) Despite its simplicity, some of us still have difficulty in making perfect softboiled or hardboiled eggs (or soft-cooked or hard-cooked, if you prefer). It’s not exactly a science, but it does require some basic rules. Listed below are my mother’s guidelines for making perfect boiled eggs. 1. Make sure eggs are at a room temperature when you start. They are less likely to crack that way. 2. Place a saucepan with cold water to cover eggs. Turn heat to medium but do not cover pan. 3. Bring water to a boil and immediately lower heat to a simmer. 4. Begin cooking time from moment water begins to simmer; 2 to 3 minutes for soft-boiled; 6 to 8 minutes for what is called “coddled eggs” (slightly firmer than softboiled); and 12 to 14 minutes for hard-boiled. 5. Quickly remove from pan with a large spoon and plunge into cold water to stop cooking since eggs do retain heat after boiling and will otherwise continue to cook. 6. After removing shell, if the egg has a green ring around it sorry, you’ve cooked it too long.

HUEVOS REVUELTOS (SCRAMBLED EGGS) Rules for perfect scrambled eggs (2 or more): 1. Beat each egg with 1 tablespoon heavy cream until foamy (about half a minute). 2. Heat a frying pan or skillet on low to moderate heat. Put in slightly more oil or butter than is needed to cover the bottom of the pan. Add slightly more oil or butter if you’re cooking more than one egg. 3. Add eggs and stir around the bottom and sides of the pan until the eggs are cooked to desired firmness. 4. Add salt and pepper and taste as the eggs start to firm up. 5. Remove from heat and serve.

HUEVOS FRITOS (FRIED EGGS) Here are Mom’s tips for perfect fried eggs: 1. Heat a frying pan or skillet on low to moderate heat. Put in slightly more oil or butter than is needed to cover the bottom of the pan. And add slightly more oil or butter if you’re frying more than one egg. 2. Break egg directly into pan. Hold the shell against the surface of the pan to allow egg to slide out gently without breaking the yolk. 3. Cook over low heat, basting the egg with oil or butter. 4. To get the egg white fully cooked and firm, cover pan while cooking. 5. To get the white fully cooked but soft, spoon a teaspoon of boiling water over each egg; then cover pan and cook to taste. 6. Turning the egg: never flip it. Slide a spatula underneath the egg, sliding it to the center. Loosen gently, lift and carefully turn over. Cook to taste.

HUEVOS REVUELTOS CON HONGO (SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS) YIELD: 4 servings

4 tablespoons olive oil ½ pound mushrooms, washed and sliced 4 tablespoons butter 8 large eggs, lightly beaten 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion 4 fresh cilantro leaves, washed and chopped Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Heat oil in a frying pan or skillet. Add mushrooms and sauté over moderate heat until they give up their moisture (about 5 minutes). 2. Remove from heat and let the bottom of the pan cool slightly. 3. Place pan over moderate-low heat and add butter. Stir until butter is melted. Add eggs, onions and cilantro. Cook, stirring around the bottom and sides of the pan, until the eggs start to firm up. 4. Add salt and pepper and cook to desired degree of firmness.

HUEVOS REVUELTOS CON SALMON (SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH SALMON) YIELD: 4 servings

8 large eggs 3 tablespoons heavy cream 4 tablespoons butter or margarine ¼ cup finely chopped onion ½ cup smoked salmon, diced ⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper 1. Combine eggs and cream in a bowl and whisk lightly. 2. Melt butter in a frying pan or skillet. Add eggs and onion and cook over moderate heat, stirring around the bottom and sides of pan, until eggs start to firm up. 3. Add salmon and pepper and cook to desired degree of firmness.

ARROZ CON HUEVOS (EGGS AND RICE) YIELD: 2 servings

2 tablespoons butter or margarine 1 small onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed 4 eggs, lightly beaten Salt and ground black pepper to taste 2 cups cooked rice (see pages 220–221) 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley 1. Heat butter in a frying pan or skillet. Add onion and garlic and sauté over moderate heat until onion is soft and transparent (2 to 3 minutes). 2. Add eggs and cook, stirring around the bottom and sides of pan, until eggs start to firm up (about 2 minutes). 3. Add salt and pepper and cook to desired degree of firmness. 4. Top cooked rice with eggs. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

HUEVOS REVUELTOS CON BERRO (SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH WATERCRESS) YIELD: 4 servings

8 large eggs 3 tablespoons heavy cream 1 cup chopped fresh watercress leaves 4 tablespoons butter or margarine 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced ⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper 1. Combine eggs, cream, and watercress in a mixing bowl and whisk lightly. 2. Melt butter in a frying pan or skillet. Add garlic and sauté briefly over moderate heat (do not brown garlic). Add eggs and cook, stirring around the bottom and sides of the pan, until eggs start to firm up. 3. Add pepper and cook to desired degree of firmness (1 minute for runny; 3 minutes for firm).

HUEVOS AL HORNO (BAKED EGGS) YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

8 hard-boiled eggs (see page 249) 3 tablespoons heavy cream 2 tablespoons butter or margarine ½ cup finely chopped onion 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced ½ cup chopped green bell pepper Salt and ground black pepper to taste 2 cups basic white sauce (see below) ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese or cheddar cheese 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Slice hard-boiled eggs in half lengthwise and remove yolks. Set the hollow whites aside. 3. In a small bowl, mix eggs and cream. Set aside. 4. Heat butter in a large skillet or frying pan. Add onion, garlic and bell pepper. Stir-fry until tender (2 to 3 minutes). 5. Add eggs, salt and pepper and sauté briefly to blend. 6. Stuff the hollow egg whites with the egg mixture. Arrange eggs in a baking dish. 7. Spoon white sauce over eggs and sprinkle with cheese. 8. Bake for 20 minutes. Serve with tostones, ripe plantains or crusty bread.

BASIC WHITE SAUCE YIELD: About 2 cups

3 tablespoons butter or margarine 3 tablespoons flour ⅛ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon ground white pepper ¼ teaspoon dried basil 1½ cups milk 1. Melt butter in a saucepan over low heat. Blend in flour, salt, pepper and basil. 2. Gradually add milk, stirring over medium heat until sauce thickens and comes to a boil. 3. Simmer for 1 minute, stirring constantly.

HUEVOS RELLENOS A LA SEVILLA (STUFFED EGGS SEVILLE STYLE) YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

8 hard-boiled eggs (see page 249) ½ cup chopped pimento stuffed olives ½ cup finely chopped onion ¼ cup mayonnaise ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 1. Slice eggs in half lengthwise and remove yolks. Set the hollow whites aside. 2. In a bowl, combine yolks, olives, onions, mayonnaise, mustard and Worcestershire sauce. Mix well. 3. Stuff the hollow egg whites with the egg-yolk mixture. 4. Place in a serving dish in the refrigerator and chill.

TORTILLA ESPAÑOLA (SPANISH OMELET) YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

¼ cup olive oil 2 medium red onions, peeled and thinly sliced 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 1 medium sweet red pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed 2 medium tomatoes, coarsely chopped 8 large eggs ⅛ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper ¼ teaspoon dried oregano 1. Heat oil in a large non-stick frying pan or skillet. Add onions, green and red peppers and garlic. Stir-fry over moderate heat until vegetables are tender (about 5 minutes). 2. Add tomatoes and cook 3 minutes more. 3. In a bowl, beat eggs lightly and add salt, pepper and oregano. 4. Add eggs to vegetables and cook over moderate-high heat, letting the eggs set in the bottom and sides of pan. 5. When the eggs start to brown, reduce heat to low and cook until upper part is dry. 6. Here you have a choice, either: A. Run a spatula or knife around the outside of tortilla. Place a large serving plate over the pan and quickly flip the tortilla onto the plate. Slide the tortilla back into the frying pan and cook until set on the other side (about 10 minutes). B. Place tortilla pan under the broiler and cook for 1 to 2 minutes or until golden brown. (Be sure the pan has an oven proof handle.) 7. Serve the tortilla cut into wedges as you would a pie.

TORTILLA DE ESPINACA (SPINACH OMELET) YIELD: 4 servings

1 10-ounce package frozen chopped spinach 6 large eggs Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil or ¼ teaspoon dried 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced ¼ cup olive oil 1. Cook frozen spinach according to package directions. Drain. 2. In a bowl, beat eggs lightly and add salt, pepper, basil and garlic. 3. Heat oil in a large frying pan or skillet with an oven proof handle. Pour in eggs and add spinach. 4. Cook over moderate-high heat, shaking the pan and stirring rapidly. 5. Let the eggs set in the bottom and sides of pan. Cover and cook over low heat for 10 minutes. 6. Remove cover and place tortilla pan under the broiler for 1 to 2 minutes or until top is golden brown. 7. Cut into wedges and serve.

TORTILLA PE PAPAS (POTATO OMELET) YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

½ cup olive oil 3½ pounds Maine or Idaho potatoes, peeled, quartered and thinly sliced 1 small onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed ¼ teaspoon dried oregano 6 cilantro leaves, washed and chopped ¼ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon ground black pepper 8 large eggs, lightly beaten. 1. Heat oil in a large non-stick frying pan or skillet. Add potatoes and cook over moderate-high heat, stirring occasionally, until just tender (10 to 15 minutes). 2. Add onion, garlic, oregano, cilantro, salt and pepper. Stir to combine. 3. Cover and cook on moderate-low heat until onions are soft and potatoes are tender. 4. Add eggs and cook on moderate-high heat, letting the eggs set in the bottom and sides of pan. 5. When eggs start to brown, reduce heat to low and cook until upper part is dry. 6. Two choices: A. Run a spatula or knife around the outside of tortilla. Place a large serving plate over the pan and quickly flip the tortilla onto the plate. Slide the tortilla back into the frying pan and cook until set on the other side (about 10 minutes). B. Place tortilla under the broiler for 1 to 2 minutes or until golden. (Be sure the pan has an oven proof handle.) 7. Cut into wedges and serve.

TORTILLA DE JAMÓN Y QUESO (HAM AND CHEESE OMELET) YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

8 large eggs ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 6 cilantro leaves, washed and chopped 6 ounces boiled ham, cut into ¼-inch strips 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese ¼ cup olive oil 8 ounces mozzarella cheese, cut into ¼-inch strips 1. In a bowl, beat eggs lightly and add salt, pepper, cilantro, ham and half of the Parmesan cheese. 2. Heat oil in a large frying pan or skillet with an oven-proof handle. Add eggs and cook over moderate-high heat, shaking pan and stirring rapidly. 3. Let the eggs set in the bottom and sides of pan. Cover and cook on low heat for 10 minutes. 4. Top with mozzarella and sprinkle with remaining Parmesan cheese. 5. Place under the broiler for 1 to 2 minutes or until cheese starts to bubble. 6. Cut into wedges and serve.

UNCLE PHILLIP’S EGG MOLD YIELD: 4 servings

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. 2. Grease 4 small molds with butter or vegetable oil. 3. Line the inside of each mold with two strips of bacon. 4. Break one egg into each mold. 5. Place in oven and bake 5 to 6 minutes. 6. Unmold on a serving plate and garnish with lettuce and roasted pepper strips.

VEGETABLES

Tradition is tradition. I prefer the shortcuts.

PASTELLES

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asteles are a singular creation made from common ingredients: root plants stuffed with meat. The meat is usually pork, but it can also be chicken or turkey. At home it’s prepared only on the most special occasions. When I returned home from Vietnam, this was the first dish my mother made in honor of my arrival. If you’re traditional, you have to use plantain leaves to wrap the thing. If they can’t be found, then wax paper will do. Plantain leaves are abundant in Caribbean markets and even Chinatown. They come wrapped in bundles of 12 or more. These days they come frozen. If you don’t want the hassle of the subway ride, then bribe someone to go to the Barrio and pick them up for you. Believe me, there is a difference between pasteles made with plantain leaves and those wrapped in wax paper. To be honest, preparing pasteles is a pain because it’s so time consuming. A food processor helps. There are still those who prefer to make them the old-fashioned way by grating all the ingredients by hand. Among these included father and Uncle Carlos. Tradition is tradition. I prefer the shortcuts. Either way, pasteles is a project, not a quick fix. YIELD: About 24 pasteles MEAT FILLING:

3 tablespoons olive oil 1½ pounds lean pork meat, cut into small cubes (chicken or turkey can be substituted) ¼ pound salt pork, washed and diced ¼ pound lean cured ham, washed and diced ½ cup pimento stuffed Spanish olives ¼ cup capers 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce ½ cup chopped roasted peppers from a jar 1 16-ounce can chick peas ½ cup black raisins ½ cup olive oil Salt and ground black pepper to taste ½ cup beef bouillon, optional PASTEL PASTE:

10 green bananas (guineos)

1 pound yautía, peeled and cut into large chunks (see page 263) 1 pound pumpkin, peeled and cut into large chunks 2 large potatoes, peeled and quartered 2 large green plantains, peeled and quartered 2 cups vegetable oil 1 cup annato seeds 1 tablespoon salt 24 plantain leaves Kitchen wire to tie pasteles 1. Heat oil in a medium skillet and quickly brown pork meat over high heat. 2. In a small frying pan, quickly stir-fry salt pork until well browned. Add salt pork to meat; then add ham, olives, capers, tomato sauce and roasted peppers. Cover and cook over low heat for 5 to 8 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, in a large pot, combine chick peas (with their liquid), raisins and olive oil. Add cooked meat and mix well. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and simmer on low heat for 15 minutes. If the meat becomes too dry or liquid evaporates, add ½ cup beef bouillon and continue cooking over medium heat. 4. Using a hand grater or food processor, finely grate the green bananas, yautía, pumpkin, potatoes and plantains. Using a wooden spoon or fork, mix well in a large bowl. 5. In a saucepan or skillet, heat vegetable oil, add annato seeds and sauté on low heat for 5 minutes or until oil attains a uniform orange-red color. This is the achiote coloring. Let cool. Strain into a bowl or glass container. Add ½ cup of the achiote coloring to the vegetables. Add salt and mix well. This is the masa or pastel paste. 6. The plantain leaves must be “treated” before using. In Spanish this is known as amortiguar. First, clean each leaf with a damp cloth. Then, with a pot holder or tongs, hold a leaf over a moderate flame, turning leaf slowly until heated but not burned. 7. Smear treated leaves with 1 tablespoon of remaining achiote. Place 2 tablespoons pastel paste in the center and spread it out evenly. Place 2 tablespoons meat filling in the center of the paste (masa). Follow diagram shown for shaping pasteles.

A. Pastel Paste Meat Filling Plantain Leaf

B. Fold in half

C. Push filling towards the fold

D. Fold in half again

E. Fold the ends. Repeat until filling and paste have been used up. 8. Place 2 pasteles together, seam side facing each other. Cut about 1 yard of kitchen string. (My mother measures it by holding out the string from her hand to her shoulder.) Follow instructions noted below:

F. Fold the string in half. Place the two pasteles on top. Then pull the ends of the string around the pasteles and throught the loop in the string

G. Then pull the string ends in opposite directions and wrap them around the ends of the pasteles and tie them together in the middle of the other side of the pasteles 9. Bring 4 quarts (16 cups) water (with 2 tablespoons salt) to a boil in a large pot or kettle. Add as many pasteles as will fit comfortably, but with water to cover. This could range from 7 to 8 pasteles. Boil, uncovered, for 1 hour. Remove pasteles and drain. Repeat until all pasteles are done. 10. To serve: place on a platter, cut string and discard. Unwrap pasteles and turn over carefully into plate. The pastel should retain its shape. WINE: Geyser Peak Winery offers a Premium Vintage Red that typifies the consistency and dependability of an everyday

wine at an affordable price. This superb California blend is best served at cool room temperature.

BIANDA (ROOT PLANTS)

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ianda are mainly starchy roots that come in an assortment of shapes, sizes and colors. There is golden calabaza (pumpkin), stark white yautía (tanier or dasheen), fleshy yuca (cassava), guineos (green bananas), coarse brown ñame, batata (sweet potato), prickly chayote (water pear) and the round malanga (called taro in other parts of the Caribbean). These root plants compare with rice as a popular side dish throughout the Nuyorican community. They are boiled and served with olive oil and vinegar. In most cases no other seasoning or condiment is needed. Some people say bianda go best with stewed codfish, octopus salad, roasted fish, arroz con gandules (rice and pigeon peas), fried eggs or scrambled eggs, carrucho (conch meat), jueyes (crab meat), picadillo (ground beef), frituras (fritters), broiled steak, stewed pork chops, or Aunt Fanny’s favorite, bianda coupled with white rice and tuna fish. Actually, there isn’t much that does not go with these tubers. And though they may be starchy, they are also rich in vitamins (mainly A and C) as well as thiamine and riboflavin.

ASSORTED ROOT PLANTS: Calabaza Ñame Yautía Yuca Malanga Chayote Guineos (green bananas) Olive oil to taste White vinegar to taste 1. Peel all the bianda (except for guineos) and cut into big chunks.

2. Bring 2 to 3 quarts (8 to 12 cups) water to a boil (to which 1 tablespoon salt and 1 tablespoon olive oil has been added). Add bianda and simmer, covered, for 30 to 45 minutes. The bianda should be tender but not mushy. 3. Drain and serve with olive oil and vinegar. 4. Peel the green bananas and boil separately in salted water until tender (10 to 15 minutes). Do not overcook or bananas will break. Drain and serve.

GUINEOS Y PAPAS EN ESCABECHE (MARINATED GREEN BANANAS AND POTATOES)

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his dish goes especially well with yellow rice. In the old days, wherever there was a buffet/dinner-dance at a neighborhood social club, the yellow rice and green bananas-potato combination was always on hand. Like pasta, it was filling, delicious and inexpensive. At home, the guineos and papas can be served on its own in lieu of a salad course, or as an appetizer. YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

3 pounds green bananas 2½ pounds Maine or Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 2 medium onions, peeled and thinly sliced ¾ cup pimento stuffed Spanish olives 2 cups olive oil 2½ teaspoons salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 cup white vinegar 1. Boil green bananas (unpeeled) in 3 quarts (12 cups) water until tender (10 to 15 minutes). 2. Drain and rinse bananas under cold running water. Peel and cut into 1-inch rounds. 3. Cook potatoes in boiling water to cover until tender (about 5 to 8 minutes). Do not overcook. 4. In a large serving bowl, alternate layers of bananas, potatoes, onions and olives. 5. In a glass jar or cruet, combine oil, salt, pepper and vinegar. Shake well and pour over vegetables. Cover and store overnight in the refrigerator.

BERENJENA (EGGPLANT)

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ne of the hallowed rules concerning eggplant is that, prior to cooking, it must be drained. This is done by peeling the eggplant with a potato peeler, cutting it into thin slices, sprinkling it with salt and piling it on a plate. Then the slices are covered by another plate and set aside for about 30 minutes. Finally, the slices are wiped clean and they are ready to be cooked. In our family we have never enacted this elaborate ritual. I don’t know where this draining out the juices bit came from nor do I care. Personally, I think it’s a waste of time. Of course, there are those who still profess the worthiness of this procedure and I say, more power to them. We’ve been making eggplant our way for generations, and we’ve never had any complaints. The following recipes demonstrate the most common ways of preparing this vegetable Nuyorican style. We are eggplant lovers, from the youngest to the oldest in our crowd.

BERENJENA FRITA (FRIED EGGPLANT SLICES) METHOD 1: YIELD: 4 servings

1 large eggplant ¼ cup flour ¾ cup vegetable oil Salt and ground black pepper (optional) 1. Peel a large eggplant and trim off the ends. Cut eggplant into ¼-inch thick slices. (Some folks prefer thicker slices. You be the judge.) 2. Sprinkle slices with flour, ground black pepper and salt (optional). 3. In a skillet or frying pan, heat ¾ cup vegetable oil and fry eggplant slices over moderate-low heat until golden brown on both sides. 4. Drain on paper towels and serve.

METHOD 2: YIELD: 4 servings

1 large eggplant 1 egg 1 cup cracker crumbs ¾ cup vegetable oil 1. Peel a large eggplant and trim off the ends. Cut eggplant into ¼-inch-thick slices (or thicker slices, if preferred). 2. Combine 1 egg with 1 cup cracker crumbs. Dip slices in egg-cracker crumb mixture. 3. In a skillet or frying pan, heat vegetable oil and fry eggplant slices over moderate-low heat until golden brown and crisp. 4. Drain on paper towel and serve.

METHOD 3: YIELD: 4 servings

1 medium eggplant 1 tablespoon salt 2 cups flour 1 tablespoon achiote (see page 10) ½ teaspoon ground black pepper ¾ cup vegetable oil 1. Peel eggplant and cut into ½-inch slices lengthwise. 2. Place slices in a saucepan with water to cover. Add salt and let stand, covered, for 15 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, combine flour and ¼ cup water in a bowl. Stir in achiote and blend with a wire whisk until flour is a smooth paste and has attained a light yellow color. Add pepper and mix well. 4. Drain eggplant slices, rinse under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. 5. Heat oil in a large skillet or flying pan. 6. Dip slices in the flour-achiote mix, coating evenly, and then fry until golden brown. As the eggplant cooks, remove excess flour from skillet to prevent burning. 7. Drain on paper towels and serve.

BERENJENA RELLENADA (STUFFED EGGPLANT) Berenjena rellenada can be served as a meal in itself, or as a side dish. YIELD: 4 servings

1 medium eggplant 1 pound cooked crab meat (cooked shrimp or even tuna from the can can be substituted) 1 cup bread crumbs 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper ¼ teaspoon dried oregano 3 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped 6 fresh cilantro leaves, washed and chopped 2 eggs, well beaten 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 teaspoons butter or margarine 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Cut eggplant in half lengthwise. Scoop out inner pulp hut do not pierce outer shell. Save pulp. 3. Pour ½ cup water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Add eggplant pulp and steam, covered, until soft. Drain, remove pulp and mash thoroughly. 4. In a large bowl, combine pulp, crab meat, bread crumbs, garlic, salt, pepper, oregano, ají dulce, cilantro and eggs. 5. Brush inside of eggplant shells with olive oil. Stuff shells with crab meat mixture. Dot each shell with a teaspoon of butter and bake for ½ hour. WINE: Light flavorful red wines that can be served chilled are a real find. Soléo (So-LAY-oh) by Sutter Home winery in

California fits this category. A blend of Zinfandel, Barbera, Pinot Noir, Napa Gamay and Centurion grapes. Fruity, vibrant and berrylike. Bring it along on your next picnic.

ESPINACA EN CREMA (CREAMED SPINACH)

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ost rugrats—I mean children—cannot take to spinach; and when they do (if they do), it has to be done up as creamed spinach. We give two ways of preparing this less than popular veggie. Okay, let’s clarify that. To those of us who like spinach, this aversion by pre-pubescent and older yahoos is puzzling. METHOD 1: YIELD: 4 servings

2 pounds fresh tender, unblemished bulk spinach, the younger the better or 2 10ounce packages of fresh spinach 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons butter or margarine 2 teaspoons flour ¾ cup milk ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper ⅛ teaspoon nutmeg 1. If using bulk spinach, cut and discard the tough stems. Rinse leaves thoroughly under cold running water and drain well. If using packaged spinach, rinse and drain. 2. Bring 2 quarts (8 cups) water to a boil and add salt. Add the spinach, bring to a second boil and cook exactly 3 minutes. Drain in a colander, pressing spinach with hand to remove all excess moisture. Chop spinach very fine. 3. Melt butter in a medium saucepan, add flour and blend. 4. Slowly add milk, stirring with a wire whisk until mixture thickens. 5. Add spinach, pepper and nutmeg and serve.

METHOD 2: YIELD: 4 servings

2 pounds fresh tender, unblemished bulk spinach, the younger the better or 2 10ounce packages of fresh spinach 2 tablespoons butter or margarine ½ cup heavy cream ¼ teaspoon ground white pepper 1. Follow instructions for washing and boiling spinach as given in Method 1. 2. Heat butter in a medium skillet or frying pan. Add spinach and toss briefly (about 1 minute). 3. Add cream and stir briefly until cream and spinach are hot. 4. Add pepper and serve immediately.

ZANAHORIAS DORADAS (GOLDEN CARROTS)

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lazed carrots can be achieved in one of many ways. The glazing can consist of orange or lemon juice and brown sugar, you can also get it from orange or anise flavored liqueur combined with sugar and nutmeg, or from almost any combination thereof. We use canned apricot nectar. Peach or papaya nectar will also work. We also include slivered almonds. But if no almonds are available, then substitute almond extract. It won’t be the same, but it’ll do. YIELD: 4 servings

5 to 6 medium carrots 1 cup apricot nectar 3 tablespoons butter or margarine 2 tablespoons slivered almonds 1. Trim off the ends from the carrots and discard. Scrape the carrots and cut into rounds about ⅛-inch thick. 2. Place carrots in a saucepan or skillet and combine with nectar and butter. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer, uncovered, until all liquid is absorbed. 3. Add almonds and cook for about 3 minutes, shaking the pan constantly, until carrots are glazed.

BROCOLI CON AJO (BROCCOLI WITH GARLIC)

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his is nothing more tasty than pan-fried broccoli. In bygone days, the broccoli was cut into small pieces and quickly boiled in salted water. We’ve discovered that steaming renders a crisper vegetable. For this you need a folding metal steamer. This can be found in any shop with a housewares section. If no steamer is available then simply steam the broccoli in the little bit of water that is added to the pot. If a little more seasoning is desired, then a pinch of tarragon or oregano maybe added. YIELD: 4 servings

1 bunch fresh broccoli 4 tablespoons olive oil 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed Salt and pepper 1. Rinse broccoli under cold running water. 2. Cut off the florets and chop the top half of the stems into small bite-size pieces. 3. Put 1 cup water and folding metal steamer in a pot or medium saucepan. Place broccoli in the steamer. Bring water to a boil, cover and steam until florets and stalks are just tender. 4. Heat oil in a large skillet. Add garlic and stir-fry until lightly golden. Add broccoli and sauté for about 3 minutes or until broccoli is tender but still crisp. 5. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve immediately.

PIMIENTOS ROJO Y VERDE (RED AND GREEN PEPPERS)

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e call them pimientos. On the mainland, they’re known as pimentos. We’ve referred to them as bell peppers. In some places, they’re known as sweet peppers, whether they’re green or red. In others, only red peppers are considered to be the “sweet” variety. Then you have Italian peppers, which are those green elongated things which are also considered sweet peppers. To make it even more confusing, in Spanish, roasted peppers are called pimientos morrones to differentiate them from regular pimentos. Now this explanation does not take into account ground black or white pepper, which is a product of peppercorns, or the dried berry of the pepper plant; or sweet chili pepper, hot pepper, cayenne pepper and similar condiments. So where does all this leave us? Right back where we started. Whatever you call them, a basic sauté of peppers will complement any meal, especially these days when you’ve got such items as yellow and even purple peppers floating around. Just cook the things and enjoy. YIELD: 4 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced 2 sweet red peppers, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 2 green bell peppers, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Heat oil in a large skillet or frying pan. Add garlic and sauté briefly until garlic colors slightly. 2. Add peppers and stir-fry over moderate-high heat until tender but crisp (about 2 minutes). 3. Add salt and ground pepper. Serve immediately.

PIMIENTOS Y HONGO (PEPPERS AND MUSHROOMS) YIELD: 4 servings

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and cut into wedges 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips 1 medium sweet red pepper, cored, seeded and cut into ¼-inch strips ½ pound mushrooms, washed and sliced 3 ají dulce (sweet chili pepper), seeded and chopped 6 cilantro leaves, washed and chopped Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley 1. Heat oil in a large skillet or frying pan. Add onion and garlic and sauté over moderate heat until onion is translucent. 2. Add bell peppers, mushrooms, ají dulce and cilantro. Stir-fry until peppers are tender but crisp. 3. Add salt and ground pepper and cook 1 minute more. 4. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

PIMIENTOS RELLENOS (STUFFED PEPPERS) YIELD: 4 servings

4 medium green or red bell peppers 6 whole black peppercorns 2 cloves garlic, peeled ¼ teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon olive oil ½ teaspoon white vinegar 1 pound lean ground beef 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 1 cup dry bread crumbs 2 medium tomatoes, cored and diced 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce ½ cup shredded cheddar cheese 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Slice the top off the peppers. Remove and discard the seeds and white veins. 3. Drop peppers into boiling water to cover and boil for 3 minutes. Remove, drain and set aside. 4. In a mortar, crush peppercorns, garlic, oregano and salt. Blend in olive oil and vinegar. 5. In a bowl, combine meat with seasoning. 6. Brown meat in a very hot skillet (no extra oil is necessary). 7. Add onion, bread crumbs, tomatoes and tomato sauce. Cook, stirring constantly, for 5 minutes. 8. Stuff the peppers with beef-tomato filling and place in a shallow baking dish. Top with shredded cheese and bake for 20 to 25 minutes. WINE: From Portugal, Quinta de’Abrigada. Full, red and dry. Serve at cool room temperature.

PAPA AL HORNO (BAKED POTATO)

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puds … taters whatever they’re called, potatoes are probably the most versatile vegetable around. Yet the common misconception remains. Potatoes are fattening, most people will say. Well, they’re not. It’s what goes on them that provides the calories. Smother the things with butter, sour cream and gravy and then wonder why you can’t fit into that bathing suit anymore. So if you’re worried about your waistline, try substituting low-fat yogurt or cottage cheese for the fattening toppings. Idaho potatoes are best for baking and french fries. Long whites are for boiling and mashing. Round whites, also called Maine potatoes, are perfect for frying and steaming. Small, or “new” red potatoes, are best for roasting and salads. We start off simple—with a basic baked potato. Get this right and the rest is a breeze. 1. Preheat oven to 425°F. 2. Wash potatoes in cold running water and pat dry with paper or linen towels. 3. Do not peel potatoes. Place directly on oven rack, as close as possible to the middle since this will ensure they bake more evenly. Do not wrap in foil. The potatoes should bake in dry air. Foil will make them steam up and become soggy. 4. Bake 40 minutes (for medium to large potatoes). They’re done when they’re soft to the touch. 5. Cut a large cross on top of the potato and gently squeeze open so that potato fluffs up. Serve with a favorite topping.

PAPAS CON PEREJIL (PARSLEYED POTATOES) YIELD: 4 servings

2 pounds small round white or red potatoes, peeled ½ teaspoon salt ¼ cup butter or margarine (or olive oil, yogurt or cottage cheese) 4 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1. Place potatoes in a pot or saucepan with water to cover. Add salt and boil on low-moderate heat, partially covered, until tender (about 15 to 20 minutes). Drain. 2. Add butter and parsley. Cook the potatoes briefly, or just long enough for the butter to melt and the parsley to coat the potatoes.

PAPAS CON CEBOLLA (POTATOES AND ONION) YIELD: 4 servings

1½ pounds Maine or Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 1 tablespoon butter Salt and ground black pepper to taste 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley 1. Place potatoes in a pot or saucepan with water to cover. Bring to a boil and simmer on low heat for 2 minutes. Drain. 2. Heat oil in a nonstick skillet or frying pan. Add potatoes and stir-fry until lightly browned (about 8 to 10 minutes). 3. Drain excess fat from skillet and add onion and garlic. Cook until onion is tender (about 3 minutes). 4. Add butter, salt and pepper. Toss to blend. 5. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

PAPAS GUISADAS (STEWED POTATOES) YIELD: 4 servings

½ cup olive oil 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1½ pounds Maine or Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce ¼ teaspoon dried oregano 6 fresh cilantro leaves, washed and chopped Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Heat oil in a nonstick skillet or frying pan. Add garlic and sauté until garlic is slightly browned. 2. Add potatoes and stir-fry for 5 minutes. 3. Add tomato sauce and remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low heat until potatoes are tender. 4. Serve piping hot.

PAPAS Y PITIPUAS (POTATOES AND GREEN PEAS) YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

1½ pounds small red potatoes, washed and cut in half but not peeled ½ teaspoon salt 1 10-ounce package frozen green peas 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 small onion, peeled and thinly sliced 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed ½ cup coarsely chopped red bell pepper ¼ teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 10 ¾-ounce can cream of mushroom soup ½ cup milk 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley 1. Place potatoes in a pot or saucepan with water to cover. Add salt and bring to a boil. Partially cover and cook for 12 minutes. 2. Add peas and boil 5 minutes more or until potatoes are tender. Drain and set aside. 3. In a large skillet or frying pan, heat oil. Add onion, garlic and bell pepper. Sauté over moderate heat until onion is soft and translucent. 4. Stir in oregano and ground pepper 5. Add soup and milk. Bring to a boil and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. 6. Add potatoes and peas. Mix well and cook for 5 minutes. 7. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

TOMATES A LA PARRILLA (GRILLED TOMATOES)

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t’s amazing to consider that at one time, in Europe, tomatoes were not eaten since they were thought to be poisonous. Doesn’t say much for pre-haute cuisine. An all purpose fruit, the tomato. It originated in Latin America, and it’s rich in vitamins. The name itself hails from the Spanish, tomate, which, in turn, derives from tomatl of the Nahuatl language spoken by the Aztecs. Tomatoes can be sliced, boiled, broiled or fried, ripe or green. A passion I still indulge to this day is a plain tomato sandwich with lots of mayonnaise. It doesn’t matter if it’s plum tomatoes, cherry tomatoes or whatever. Tomatoes are also perfect for stuffing. Let your imagination run wild. The filling can vary from cheese to eggs, to meat, to rice, even tuna from the can. There are actually two ways to stuff a tomato. The favorite method is to scoop out the pulp. The other way is to cut the tomato, stem down, into petals without cutting all the way through. This is the fancy mode. Either way is okay, and better if served on a bed of lettuce or watercress. We offer two preparations of this wondrous fruit: grilled and stuffed. And, oh yes, always stick to firm, unblemished tomatoes, preferably vine-ripened. Stay away from those counterfeit things found in supermarkets that come wrapped in cellophane. Mealy and tasteless. Late August to early September is the best time to buy tomatoes. If, late in the season, the local crop is scant then spring for imported. YIELD: 4 servings

2 large red, ripe tomatoes 3 tablespoons olive oil Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1½ teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon or ½ teaspoon dried 1. Preheat broiler to high. 2. Cut tomatoes in half and brush with olive oil. 3. Place tomatoes, cut side down, on a baking dish. Broil about 4 to 6 inches from heat source for 3 to 4 minutes or until edges start to brown. 4. Turn tomatoes cut side up and sprinkle with salt, pepper and tarragon. 5. Grill for another 2 minutes or until surfaces are slightly blistered.

TOMATES RELLENOS (STUFFED TOMATOES) YIELD: 4 servings

2 large red, ripe tomatoes 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed ½ cup finely chopped green bell pepper 1 cup sliced fresh mushrooms 1 8-ounce can salmon 1 10-ounce package frozen green peas 1 bay leaf Salt and ground black pepper to taste ¼ teaspoon dried oregano Butter or margarine 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Slice the tops from tomatoes and scoop out the pulp with a spoon. Rinse tomatoes under cold running water and set upside down to drain. 3. Heat oil in a large skillet or frying pan. Add onion, garlic and bell pepper. Sauté over moderate heat until tender. 4. Add pulp, mushrooms, salmon, peas, bay leaf, salt, pepper and oregano. Cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Remove bay leaf and discard. 5. Stuff tomatoes with the mixture, making high mounds. 6. Place tomatoes in a greased baking dish, dot with butter and bake for 10 minutes. WINE: San Felipe, a Mendoza wine from Argentina, comes in red and white. A good steady quaff for everyday drinking.

The white wine should he served chilled. The red is best slightly chilled.

CEBOLLAS RELLENAS (STUFFED ONIONS)

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nions, likewise, can be stuffed. Here, we use rice. But just like tomatoes, numerous fillings can be used. The trick is to boil the onion shells in water until the shell can be easily pierced. Then drain and follow normal procedure. YIELD: 4 servings

4 large Bermuda onions 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed 1 cup chopped celery with leaves ¾ cup rice 1 10-ounce package frozen green peas ¾ cup beef broth or bouillon ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper ¼ teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup grated cheddar cheese 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Slice the tops from the onions and peel. 3. With a spoon, scoop out onion pulp but leave at least ½-inch thick shell. 4. Heat oil in a large skillet or frying pan. Add onion pulp and garlic. Sauté over moderate-high heat for 2 minutes. Add celery, rice, peas and broth. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer, covered, until liquid is absorbed (about 15 minutes). 5. Add pepper and oregano. Mix well. 6. Meanwhile, place onion shells in a saucepan with water to cover. Add salt and bring to a boil. Cook, partially covered, for 15 minutes or until tender. Drain and stuff with rice filling, making high mounds. 7. Sprinkle with cheese and arrange in a greased baking dish. Bake for 10 minutes or until cheese melts. WINE: Wehlener Sonnenuhr (Vay-len-er Sohn-en-oor) is the best white wine from Germany’s Mosell region. Elegant and

regal. The best vineyards are Sonnenuhr and Lay. Serve slightly chilled.

COLLARD GREENS

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’ve had an affinity for collard greens since my early youth. Yet I cannot find an adequate translation for it. In Spanish, repollo is cabbage, coliflor is cauliflower, lechuga is lettuce. None of them fit. Even cantaloupes and turnips have a Spanish equivalent (sandia and nabo, respectively). But there are some vegetables that defy description—I can’t find a proper translation for kale and kohlrabi either. We’ll just have to leave it as is. It’s enough to remember that collard greens are pure “soul food.” It’s right up there with chitlins (chitterlings, for the uninitiated), corn bread and pigs feet. The standard recipe for collard greens calls for a slab of chopped bacon. The bacon is fried, then the greens are cooked in the bacon drippings, drained and sprinkled with bacon bits. We give it a Nuyorican slant in that we use lean cured ham. The result is just as good. YIELD: 6 servings

1 tablespoon olive oil 6 ounces lean cured ham, washed and diced 1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped 4 10-ounce packages frozen collard greens Salt and ground black pepper to taste 1. Heat oil in a large skillet or frying pan. Add ham and brown rapidly over high heat. Remove crisp ham pieces and set aside. 2. Add onions and stir-fry over moderate heat until soft and translucent. 3. Add collard greens and enough water to cover. Lower heat, cover skillet and simmer until tender (about 20 minutes). 4. Drain, add salt and pepper. Place in a serving dish with ham pieces sprinkled on top.

AJO AL HORNO (ROASTED GARLIC)

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his section would not be complete without a garlic recipe. There are many garlic lovers in this world and I count myself among them. Garlic’s pungent smell and flavor make it a perfect seasoning. Apart from these attributes, garlic also has medicinal benefits such as inhibiting the development of high serum cholesterol, reducing the formation of blood clots, and aiding in the lowering of high blood pressure. Garlic is perhaps the oldest known antibiotic. Finally, because of its robust flavor, garlic can be used as a substitute for salt. Think of it this way, if nothing else, it can ward off vampires. 3 to 4 large heads unpeeled garlic (about ½ pound) 1. Preheat oven to 500°F. 2. Break garlic into individual unpeeled cloves. Place cloves in a baking dish. 3. Bake 25 minutes. Peel cloves and serve. NOTE: My mother never actually served garlic as a vegetable. She would use these gems in soups, stews, or diced in

salads, with meat and fish, or in combination with a favorite dressing and marinade.

DESSERTS

As for flan, my Uncle Carlos made the best in the neighborhood n our crowd, desserts, preserves and sweets came into their own during the holidays. There was arroz con dulce (rice pudding), budín (bread pudding), dulce de lechosa (papaya preserve), and guava jelly with slices of farmer’s white cheese. These treats were not just confined to the last round. They were consumed whenever the mood struck. Family and friends would drop in and cups of rice pudding would be passed around no matter what hour of the day. As for flan, my Uncle Carlos made the best in the neighborhood but he had to be coaxed into it. So sometimes we’d have to get our flan at local restaurants.

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Whether you have it at home or elsewhere, perhaps there is some truth to that old chestnut: life is short, eat dessert first.

ARROZ CON DULCE (RICE PUDDING)

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he literal translation of arroz con dulce is “sweetened rice.” A more appropriate term would be sweet coconut rice. Arroz con dulce makes use of coconuts, and this is where things begin to get confusing. Normally, one thinks of ripening as a softening process. In a coconut, the process is reversed. As the coconut ripens it gets dryer; and the interior meat, which is soft and mealy, gets harder. So figure that one out. A coconut, when fresh, contains liquid. On the outside, the coconut is a light green. The top is sliced off, usually with a machete, and the liquid is drunk straight from the coconut or poured into a glass. For arroz con dulce, we need a ripened (actually hardened) coconut. Here, the outer green layer has been removed to reveal the coconut shell. This ripened coconut also contains liquid, but not as much as in the fresh coconut. If a coconut is completely dry then it’s most likely spoiled. The best way to ascertain this is to shake the coconut shell and listen to the sloshing inside. This liquid has to be drained and saved. This is done by piercing the three spots or “eyes” on the coconut with an ice pick. Then, using a hammer, the coconut shell is cracked in half. The hard part is trying to pry the coconut meat from the shell. A sharp knife is good for this; but it can be simplified by placing the coconut in a preheated 275°F oven and baking for 20 minutes. Once cooled, the inner meat will pull easily from the shell. Always remember to peel away the brown skin from the meat. The meat is then cut into pieces and grated. One ripe coconut will yield from 4 to 5 cups grated coconut meat. The drained coconut liquid is mixed with the grated coconut, and then strained to produce the coconut milk used in the pudding. The other key ingredient in this recipe is the sugar. Either white granulated or brown sugar can be used. If a darker and richer pudding is preferred, then brown sugar is the choice. My preference is a combination of half dark and half white sugar. The finished pudding is topped with cracker crumbs or sprinkled with cinnamon and nutmeg. Rice pudding is best served at room temperature. YIELD: 10 or more servings

2 cups rice (either long grain or short grain) 1 large ripe coconut 1 5-ounce can evaporated milk 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract ½ cup seedless black raisins

1½ cups sugar 1 teaspoon butter or margarine ½ cups cracker crumbs 1. Place rice in a saucepan with water to cover and let stand at room temperature for at least 5 hours or, preferably, overnight. 2. Pierce coconut and drain coconut liquid into a small bowl. Reserve. Split coconut in half and remove white meat from shell. Also separate the brown skin from coconut meat. 3. Break coconut meat into pieces, rinse under cold water and grate finely. 4. Place grated coconut in a bowl. Add water to reserved coconut liquid so that it measures 1 cup. Bring liquid to a boil and add to grated coconut. 5. Drain coconut in a colander or strainer, pressing with your hands to extract the coconut milk into a bowl. Set aside. 6. In a saucepan, heat 1 cup water. Add same coconut shreds as before and strain again into a separate bowl. This is the second coconut milk that will be used with the rice. Discard shreds. 7. Drain rice, place in a pot or saucepan and add second cup of coconut milk. Add evaporated milk, cinnamon, cloves, salt, vanilla, raisins, 1 cup sugar and butter. Cook on moderate heat, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, for ½ hour or until rice is tender. 8. Add first cup of coconut milk and remaining ½ cup sugar. Stir to blend. Cover and simmer on low heat for 5 minutes. 9. Spoon into a round serving platter or large pie plate. 10. Sprinkle with cracker crumbs and allow to cool at room temperature before serving.

TEMBLEQUE (COCONUT CUSTARD)

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he chief custard-based dessert in our repertoire. Preparing it is a hell of a bother. Nevertheless, forego any pre-packaged tembleque mix on the shelf. None compare to the genuine article. YIELD: 8 servings

2 large ripe coconuts ½ cup cornstarch ⅔ cup sugar ½ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Ground nutmeg Ground cinnamon 1. Pierce coconuts and drain liquid into a small bowl. Reserve. 2. Split coconuts and remove white meat from shell. Separate the brown skin from coconut meat. 3. Break the coconut meat into pieces, rinse under cold water and grate finely. 4. Place grated coconut in a bowl. Add enough water to reserved coconut liquid so that it measures 3½ cups. Bring liquid to a boil and add grated coconut. 5. Drain coconut in a colander or strainer, pressing with the hands to extract coconut milk into a bowl. 6. Heat 1 cup water. Add same coconut shreds as before and strain again into the same bowl that holds the coconut milk. Discard shreds. 7. In a large pot or saucepan, combine cornstarch, sugar, salt and vanilla. Stir in coconut milk, a little bit at a time, and blend well. 8. Cook on moderate heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until mixture thickens. 9. Reduce heat to low and stir until mixture boils. 10. Remove from heat and pour into 8 slightly wet, individual molds or a large round pan or mold. 11. Let cool and invert into a serving dish or platter. Sprinkle with nutmeg and cinnamon and serve.

BUDÍN (BREAD PUDDING)

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bout the only time we got to eat white bread was when my mother made this dessert. If you have an aversion to white bread (which to some is the most unpalatable invention of our era) then use French or Italian bread, crust trimmed. Ordinarily, I would not be caught dead anywhere near white bread. If I eat it, I’m usually down South where raisin pumpernickel is hard to come by. When I was a kid we were plied with Silvercup, Wonder Bread and all the rest—until we discovered good old Jewish rye, whole wheat and sourdough. But for this recipe, white bread seems to work best. I don’t know why. Could be that the bread is so tasteless to begin with that it just soaks up the sweet creamy coconut taste. YIELD: 8 servings

1 loaf (1 pound) sliced white bread 1 cup milk 1 15-ounce can cream of coconut 2 cups half and half 1 teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ⅓ cup sugar 6 eggs, well beaten 3 tablespoons butter or margarine 1 1½-ounce box seedless black raisins 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. In a bowl, combine bread and milk and let stand 5 minutes. 3. With a fork or spoon, mix well until bread is saturated. 4. Add coconut cream, half and half, cloves, vanilla and sugar. Mix well. 5. Add eggs to coconut cream mixture. 6. Add 2 tablespoons butter, pour into a blender and blend for 2 minutes. Stir in raisins. 7. Grease a square 8 × 8-inch aluminum pan with remaining tablespoon butter. Place in oven and bake 1½ hours or until golden. Allow to cool at room temperature before serving.

EL FLÁN DE TIO CARLOS (UNCLE CARLOS’ FLAN)

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ncle Carlos’ rendition differs from other flán desserts in that it’s served in a single platter. In Spanish restaurants flán always comes in small molds or ramekins. When Uncle Carlos did it, he inverted the flán into a serving dish. He then scooped up individual servings into cups or saucers; or, better still, the flán was left on the dish and everyone just dug into it with their spoons. We don’t stand too much on ceremony where this sweet is concerned. Also, Uncle Carlos cooked his custard on top of the stove. The other, and more popular way, is to bake it. Simply caramelize a cake pan or 9-inch pie plate, pour in the mixture and bake for 1 hour at 350°F. Uncle Carlos admitted he never baked a flán. Aunt Fanny has, and she vouches for this method. YIELD: 10 to 12 servings

6 eggs 1 12-ounce can evaporated milk 1½ cups sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 teaspoon cornstarch 1 cup milk 1. In a large bowl, combine eggs and evaporated milk. Add 1 cup sugar while blending mixture with a wire whisk. 2. Blend in vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg. 3. In a small bowl, combine cornstarch and milk, whisking together so that liquid is smooth and not lumpy. Add this to the egg-milk mixture. 4. Cook remaining ½ cup sugar in a small saucepan over low heat until caramelized (a thin syrup is formed). Do not burn. 5. Pour caramelized sugar into the top pan of a 2-quart double boiler. Swirl the pan around to coat the inside bottom and sides. 6. Fill the bottom part of double boiler ¾ full with water. Pour egg mixture into top pan. Bring water in bottom pan to a boil. Cover top pan and simmer, on low heat, for 1 hour. When done, the flán should have the consistency of jelly; it should “wiggle” in the pan just like gelatin.

7. Remove flán from heat and let cool at room temperature. 8. To serve, run a knife around rim of pan and invert onto a serving dish. Cut into wedges and serve.

FLÁN DE CALABAZA (PUMPKIN FLAN)

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ith pumpkin flán we come back to the area of substitutions and changes. For instance, some prefer to substitute ground ginger for the cinnamon given in the recipe. Then there’s the question of eggs. All agree that the eggs, when used, should be at room temperature, not straight out of the refrigerator. Why? Search me. But this is the gospel of all the pastry chefs I know. The point of contention is whether whole eggs should be used or just egg yolks. In our true and tried recipe, we use whole eggs, both the white and yolks. Yet it could be that yolks provide a richer flavor or better consistency. Feel free to experiment. If the yen is there, 1 tablespoon or more of chopped almonds may be added to the mix. One could then say the dessert is pumpkin flán almondine. YIELD: 8 servings

1 teaspoon salt 1 pound pumpkin, peeled, seeded and cut into small pieces 1 12-ounce can evaporated milk ¼ teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 teaspoons butter or margarine 1 teaspoon cornstarch 2 tablespoons milk 4 eggs 1½ cups sugar 1. Preheat oven to 325°F. 2. In a saucepan, bring 2½ cups water to a roiling boil. Add salt and boil pumpkin, covered, for 10 minutes or until tender. 3. Drain pumpkin, place in a large bowl and mash. Add evaporated milk, cloves, cinnamon and butter. If desired, add more salt to taste. 4. In a small bowl, mix cornstarch and milk; and add to mashed pumpkin. 5. Add eggs one at a time, and mix well. 6. Stir in ½ cup sugar. 7. Place remaining sugar in a saucepan. Add 2 tablespoons water and cook over moderate-low heat for 5 minutes or until caramelized. Do not burn.

8. Pour caramelized sugar into a 9-inch pie plate to cover bottom and sides. 9. Spoon pumpkin-egg mixture into pie plate. 10. Bake 45 minutes. 11. Remove from oven and let cool at room temperature. Run a knife along rim of pie plate and invert into a serving dish. 12. Cut into wedges and serve.

GUINEOS CON LICOR (SPIRITED BANANAS)

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ood, firm, ripe bananas are coated in butter, sprinkled with lime juice and sugar, and baked. Lastly, they are spiced with whatever liqueur is on hand and served. They can also be served flambé style in order to garner those oohs and aahs from your guests at the table. YIELD: 4 or more servings

2 tablespoons butter or margarine 4 ripe bananas, peeled and sliced in half lengthwise 1 tablespoon lime juice ¼ cup brown sugar ¼ cup anisette, amaretto or Grand Marnier 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Melt butter in an oven-proof serving dish or large skillet. 3. Add bananas and coat both sides with butter. 4. Sprinkle with lime juice and sugar. 5. Place in oven and bake for 15 minutes. 6. Drizzle with liqueur and serve. Or heat liqueur in a flambé cup or small saucepan. Pour over bananas, ignite with a long match and spoon flaming liqueur over bananas.

DULCE DE LECHOSE (PAPAYA PRESERVE)

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apayas are a delicate fruit. When green, they taste awful. They are best when ripe. But be aware that if they’re too ripe, they’ll dry out. You can discern ripeness by a smooth yellow color and tenderness to the touch. Overripe papayas will start to discolor. So seek out only that fruit which is mellow yet firm and unblemished. For cooking purposes, a moderately ripe one will do. Some cooks say only green papayas should be used for making a preserve. The problem with that is that more sugar is needed. Whether ripe or green, store in the refrigerator in a glass bowl. YIELD: 4 servings

3 medium ripe papayas, peeled, seeded and cut into ½-inch strips ¼ teaspoon salt 2 sticks cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground anise seed 3 cups sugar 1. Place papayas in a saucepan with water to cover. Add salt and let stand 5 minutes. 2. Drain and rinse under cold running water. Place in a pot or heavy kettle but not aluminum for it will stain. Add 2 quarts (8 cups) water, cinnamon sticks and anise seed. 3. Bring to a boil and cook on low-moderate heat, uncovered, for 15 minutes or until tender. 4. Add sugar and continue cooking, uncovered, for 20 minutes or until sugar is thick and syrupy. 5. Remove cinnamon sticks and allow papaya preserve to cool at room temperature. 6. Serve in a dessert bowl or store in a glass jar or container.

GUINEOS CON CREMA DE COCO (BANANAS WITH COCONUT CREAM)

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nother banana dessert that’s bound to impress the gentry is bananas with coconut cream. Strikingly simple to make and scrumptious. No fancy flambé gimmicks here. Just sautée and serve. YIELD: 4 or more servings

2 tablespoons butter or margarine 4 ripe bananas, peeled and sliced in half lengthwise 1 tablespoon lime juice ½ cup cream of coconut Fresh peach halves 1. Melt butter in a large saucepan or skillet. 2. Add bananas and sauté briefly until well coated. 3. Sprinkle with lime juice. 4. Remove bananas to a serving dish and spoon cream of coconut over them. 5. Garnish with peach halves and serve.

FRUTAS CON CHAMPAÑA (FRUIT WITH CHAMPAGNE)

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he following is best served in those saucer-shape champagne glasses that William Powell and Myrna Loy used to sip out of in those old 1930s movies. Fluted glasses do not provide the same panache. The fruits we prefer are mango and peach. Either one can be served on its own or, as we do it, in combination. Each guest can pour his own champagne, enjoy the fruit and quaff the bubbly. If the desire is to keep it nonalcoholic, then flavored carbonated water can be used in place of the champagne. YIELD: 8 servings

2 mangoes, sliced in half, pitted, peeled and cut into ½-inch slices 4 fresh peaches, sliced in half, pitted, peeled and cut into ½-inch slices 4 tablespoons brown sugar 1 bottle or more champagne 1. Apportion mango and peach slices in 8 champagne glasses. 2. Sprinkle with sugar and stir. 3. Pour champagne in glasses, letting it bubble to the top, and serve.

QUESILLO

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his is a type of custard for which there is no English translation. Some would call it a pineapple custard since in the traditional quesillo pineapple juice is boiled with sugar, baked and then chilled in a mold. However, there is a quesillo blanco, or “white” custard, that uses condensed milk rather than pineapple juice. Both quesillos are baked and served chilled. So what should we call this thing? Quesillo it is, although queso means cheese in Spanish and there’s no cheese at all in this dessert. Forget the semantics. Enjoy. YIELD: 6 to 9 servings

1 18-ounce can pineapple juice 1 cup sugar 6 eggs, separated 1. Preheat oven to 300°F. 2. In a saucepan, combine pineapple juice and sugar. Bring to a boil and cook until syrupy. Do not stir. Remove from heat and set aside to let cool. 3. In two separate bowls, beat egg yolks and whites until light and frothy. 4. Add yolks to whites and blend well. 5. Add pineapple-sugar mixture to eggs; but reserve ½ cup pineapple mix for sauce. Beat together eggs and pineapple mixture. 6. Pour into a lightly greased 1 quart mold or casserole. 7. Fill a baking pan ¾ full with hot water. Place mold in water and bake for 1 hour. 8. Remove from oven, allow to cool then chill. 9. Run knife along rim of mold or casserole. Unmold onto a serving dish. 10. Spoon reserve sauce over quesillo and serve.

QUESILLO BLANCO 3 eggs, separated 1 15-ounce can sweetened condensed milk 1. Preheat oven to 300°F. 2. In separate bowls, beat egg yolks and whites until light and frothy. 3. Add yolks to whites and beat well. 4. Stir in condensed milk and beat until blended. 5. Pour into a 1 quart mold or casserole. 6. Fill a baking pan ¾ full with hot water. Place mold in water and bake for 35 minutes. The custard is done when a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. 7. Remove from oven, allow to cool then chill. 8. Run a knife along rim of mold or casserole. Unmold onto a serving dish and serve.

ENSALADA DE FRUTA (FRUIT SALAD)

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ruit salad, like fruit cake, is the forlorn also-ran of the dessert category. When I was in the Marines, most parents would insist on sending their offsprings numerous cans of homemade fruit cake. And we hated it. Here we were in the bush, dodging bullets, pining for pizzas, sodas and hot dogs, and the reward that would be awaiting us back at the base area was tons of unclaimed fruit cake. The same can be said of fruit salad. Fortunately, when it’s fresh, it’s another matter. Nothing is more refreshing than layered strawberries, pears, peaches, grapes and oranges. Sprinkle a little brown sugar or honey on it and you’re set. Almost enough to block out these horrid memories of canned fruit salad back at the P.S. 86 school cafeteria. YIELD: 8 servings

1 cup fresh hulled strawberries ½ cup fresh peach slices ½ cup cubed pears 1 McIntosh apple, cubed 3 tablespoons dark rum or anisette (optional) 3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar ¼ teaspoon nutmeg 1. Combine or layer fruit in a large glass bowl. 2. Sprinkle with rum or anisette. 3. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar. 4. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. 5. Sprinkle with nutmeg and serve.

ENSALADA DE FRUTA AL GUSTO (FRUIT SALAD WITH HONEY-LIME PRESSING) YIELD: 4 servings

½ pint blueberries 2 oranges, peeled and cut into sections 2 bananas, peeled and cut into ½-inch rounds ⅓ cup honey 3 tablespoons lime juice 1. Combine fruit in a glass bowl. 2. In a small bowl, mix honey and lime juice. Spoon honey-lime dressing over fruit. 3. Refrigerate at least 1 hour before serving.

PERAS AL HORNO (BAKED PEARS)

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his dessert can be served warm or at room temperature with plain vanilla ice cream or whipped cream. YIELD: 4 to 6 servings

⅓ cup unsifted flour ½ cup sugar ¼ cup butter or margarine 3 cups sliced peeled pears 2 tablespoons lime juice 2 tablespoons dry Fino sherry ¼ teaspoon nutmeg 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. In a bowl, combine flour and sugar. 3. Add butter a bit at a time and mix until mixture is crumbly. 4. Line a 9-inch pie plate with the pears. 5. Sprinkle with lime juice, sherry and nutmeg. 6. Top with flour-sugar mixture and bake for 20 minutes or until fruit is tender.

SALUD! RUM DRINKS (AND A FEW WITHOUT RUM)

Today, of course, it seems like a new rum drink comes out every day. et’s get one thing straight from the outset, Puerto Rican rum is the best in the world—bar none. I know, it’s an intemperate and even pompous statement. But it’s valid. This is not to denigrate all the fine rums from other parts of the world, but the sales figures speak for themselves. Over 85 percent of all rum sold and consumed in the good old U.S. of A. comes from Puerto Rico.

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Rum that comes from anywhere in the Caribbean is top-notch. But none attains that essence, that subtle character of the product from Borinquen. About the closest second, in my experience, is Dominican añejo, especially Siboney, which has a smoothness worthy of a premier rum. Which leads us to the topic itself. Rum comes in two varieties: white (or silver) and dark (or gold). There is a further offshoot of the gold, what is called añejo (extra aged). The strongest of these is 151 proof. The longer the rum ages in oak casks, the darker and stronger it becomes. I do not recommend 151 for sipping. This is not a parlor drink. In our group, we use it for making coquito, a sort of high powered eggnog. Puerto Rican rum is a blend of several rums that have been aged according to government requirements. White rum is aged for a minimum of a year. Dark rum is aged for at least three years. The choice añejos are aged much longer than that. What sets Puerto Rican rums apart, though, is their lightness and dryness—as opposed to their heavy-bodied sweet counterparts from Jamaica, Martinique, Trinidad, Barbados and, yes, New England. There’s more to it than just the distilling and aging process. Light-bodied rums also come from such diverse places as Haiti, Venezuela, Mexico, Hawaii and the Philippines. Some say the uniqueness of Puerto Rican rum has to do with the climate, the soil and its hilly mountain chains. No one knows for sure. Sugar cane is sugar cane wherever it’s grown. It must be the expertise acquired from 400 years of rum production. In my family, there’s a distinct preference for dark rum. This penchant for the gold label may have to do with tradition. I personally prefer the lighter stuff. But even to this day, anywhere you go, unless you specify white rum, you’re going to get the dark brew. According to my father, dark rum has been the preference of every rummy he’s ever known. Nuyoricans are a diverse lot. Like other immigrant groups, they’ve discovered the attributes of light, pleasant drinks. Yet ask the older generation what they want, and they’ll specify añejo. Rum, though considered a tropical drink, was the preferred drink of the colonists. While George Washington and the rest of the Virginia upper crust may have sipped their Madeira, the common man in the streets of New England was downing his double rum or “grog.” Rum made from fermented molasses was the favorite among the pre-revolutionary citizenry, not just the sailors and pirates. Yet although rum has been American since the nation’s founding, it wasn’t until recent

times that it’s become a “class” drink. Well into the late 19th century, it was still considered the province of the “lower orders.” All those famous mixed rum drinks of today were unknown in the drawing rooms of this nation’s first hundred years. For instance, that quintessential elixir, the daiquiri, didn’t come on the scene until 1896. Legend has it that Teddy Roosevelt’s Rough Riders invented the most renowned rum drunk of all in a Havana bar during the Spanish American War. Today, of course, it seems like a new rum drink comes out every day. For the uninitiated, think of white rum in the same way you would consider a distilled light liquor, say vodka or gin. It mixes with myriad ingredients in the same way to produce a congenial cocktail. Dark rum is more like blended whiskey, or a fine bourbon or single malt scotch. Most well-known tropical drinks usually contain a dark or gold label rum. But it’s not just rum that constitutes the spirit of what we consider “tropical drinks.” We also have maví, a non-alcoholic potion made of sugar and native root. We have thirst quenchers made out of guava juice and even sesame seed. So the teetotalers among you can take heart. Not every island drink is geared toward delirium.

COCKTAILS AND PARTY DRINKS BAZOOKA 2 ounces white rum Juice of 1 lemon ½ ounce Curaçao 3 dashes grenadine syrup Club soda Pour ingredients into a highball glass filled with cracked ice. Fill with club soda and stir.

BEACHCOMBER 2 ounces white rum Juice of ½ lime ½ ounce Triple Sec Dash grenadine syrup Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass rimmed with sugar.

BETWEEN THE SHEETS 1 ounce dark rum Juice of ½ lemon ½ ounce brandy ½ ounce Triple Sec Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Strain into chilled cocktail glass.

BLACK MARIA (A MORNING EYE OPENER) 2 ounces dark rum 2 ounces Kahlua 4 ounces black coffee Pour ingredients into a mug and stir. Add 2 to 3 ice cubes and serve.

BOLERO COCKTAIL 1½ ounces white or dark rum Juice of ½ lemon ¾ ounce orange juice 1 ounce brandy Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Strain ingredients into chilled cocktail glass.

BORINQUEN 2 ounces white or dark rum 1 tablespoon grenadine syrup 1 ounce Rose’s lime juice 1 ounce orange juice 1 ounce 151 proof rum Pour ingredients into a blender and add ½ cup cracked or shaved ice. Blend to consistency. Serve in old-fashioned glass.

CASA BLANCA 1 ounces white rum 1 ounce Rose’s lime juice 1½ ounces Triple Sec Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Strain into chilled cocktail glass.

CONGO 2 ounces white or dark rum 1 teaspoon powdered sugar 1 teaspoon shredded coconut ½ cup cracked or shaved ice Dash of nutmeg Mix ingredients in a blender and blend to desired consistency. Pour, unstrained, into fluted champagne glass and sprinkle with nutmeg.

COQUITO Coquito is what my folks called Puerto Rican moonshine. And they may not be too far off the mark. Coquito is made at home in the traditional way, mainly for special gatherings. Some people liken coquito to potent homemade eggnog. And it can be very potent, or very mild, depending on how much rum you put in it. In Puerto Rican neighborhoods, the coquito flows during the Las Fiestas Patronales, or the Feast of the Patron Saints, and Christmas. Every family has its own recipe. According to my elders, in olden times the success of a shindig was measured on the quality of the family coquito. YIELD: 14 to 16 servings

2 ripe coconuts 1 14-ounce can sweetend condensed milk 1 5-ounce can evaporated milk 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 5 egg yolks, lightly beaten 3 cups 151 proof (dark) rum 1. With a hammer or mallet, crack open the coconuts. They should break into several pieces. 2. Place pieces in the oven and heat for 5 minutes at a low setting. This will make it easier to remove the coconut skin from the shell. 3. With a small paring knife, remove coconut from the shell. Discard shell. 4. Grate the coconut pieces using a hand grater or food processor. Here we come to one of those interminable family arguments that are never settled. Some relatives claim that true coquito should be grated by hand. They insist that it gives the coquito a better taste. There are others who prefer the convenience of a food processor. The decision is yours. 5. Place grated coconut in a saucepan or pot and add warm water to cover. Let it sit for 5 minutes. 6. Wrap moist coconut shreds in cheesecloth or a clean handkerchief. Press tightly with your hands so that coconut milk will be strained into a saucepan. Discard grated coconut. 7. In a large bowl, combine condensed milk, evaporated milk, cinnamon, egg yolks, coconut milk and rum. Pour in a blender and blend 10 to 20 seconds. This may be done in portions. 8. Pour into soda bottles (1 liter or 1 quart) and cap tightly. Refrigerate for at least

2 hours. 9. Serve in glasses with a sprinkling of nutmeg or cinnamon.

DAIQUIRI ½ ounce fresh lime juice ½ teaspoon powdered sugar 1½ ounces white rum Shake or stir well with cracked ice. Strain into chilled cocktail glass or serve on the rocks.

BANANA DAIQUIRI 1 ounce lemon or lime juice ½ teaspoon powdered sugar Dash of grenadine syrup 1½ ounces white rum ⅓ ripe banana, peeled Mix ingredients in a blender with 1 cup cracked ice and blend for 10 to 20 seconds. Pour (unstrained) into chilled cocktail or fluted champagne glass.

FROZEN DAIQUIRI 1 ounce lemon or lime juice ½ teaspoon powdered sugar Dash grenadine syrup 1½ ounces white rum Combine ingredients in a blender with 1 cup cracked ice and blend for 10 to 20 seconds. Pour (unstrained) into a chilled cocktail or champagne glass. Garnish with a cherry. NOTE: Like most frozen drinks, this cocktail is served with short straws.

PEACH DAIQUIRI 1 ounce lemon or lime juice ½ teaspoon powdered sugar 2 fresh peach halves, peeled or 2 canned 1½ ounces white rum Combine ingredients in a blender with 1 cup cracked ice and blend for 10 to 20 seconds. Pour (unstrained) into chilled cocktail or fluted champagne glass.

PINEAPPLE DAIQUIRI 1 ounce lime juice ½ teaspoon powdered sugar 1 slice canned pineapple 1½ ounces white rum Combine ingredients in a blender with 1 cup cracked ice and blend for 10 to 20 seconds. Pour (unstrained) into chilled cocktail or fluted champagne glass.

STRAWBERRY DAIQUIRI 1 ounce lime juice ½ teaspoon powdered sugar Dash grenadine syrup 5 large fresh or frozen strawberries Combine ingredients in a blender with 1 cup cracked ice and blend for 10 to 20 seconds. Pour (unstrained) into chilled cocktail or fluted champagne glass.

EGGNOG FOR ONE 1 whole egg 1 teaspoon powdered sugar 2 ounces dark rum 6 ounces milk Nutmeg, to dust Put ingredients in a shaker and shake vigorously with ice. Strain into a 10-ounce glass. Dust with nutmeg.

HOMEMADE EGGNOG 8 eggs ½ pound sugar 1 “fifth” (25.6 ounces) bottle dark rum 1 pint heavy cream 1 quart milk Nutmeg, to dust Separate egg whites from yolks and beat separately until light and frothy. Add sugar and egg whites and beat until stiff. Add beaten yolks to whites and mix until blended. Pour into punch bowl and stir in the rum. Add heavy cream and milk. Mix thoroughly. Chill for at least 1 hour. Put a dusting of nutmeg on top before serving. Serves 24.

PREPARED EGGNOG 1 quart canned eggnog 12 ounces dark rum 1 cup heavy cream Nutmeg, to dust Mix eggnog and rum in a punch bowl. Blend in heavy cream. Chill for 1 hour. Serve with dusting of nutmeg. Serves 12.

EL PRESIDENTE 2 ounces white rum 1 ounce dry vermouth ¼ ounce Curaçao Twist of orange peel Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and stir. Strain into chilled cocktail glass and add twist of orange peel.

FIREMAN’S SOUR Juice of 1 lime or 1 ounce Rose’s lime juice ½ ounce grenadine syrup 2 ounces dark rum ½ teaspoon powdered sugar Cherry or orange slice to garnish Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Strain into a 6-ounce glass and add club soda. Garnish with cherry and orange slice. NOTE: This is a variation on the old rum sour. Whether firemen invented it or not, I do not know.

GRASSHOPPER 1½ ounces white rum 1 ounce green creme de menthe ¾ ounce light cream Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Strain into chilled cocktail glass.

HABANEROS Absinthe is a wormwood liqueur that drove French poets insane, particularly Paul Verlaine. It is rumored that during the Second World War President Roosevelt had absinthe delivered to him, via submarine, to mix his cocktails. Most likely, the story is apocryphal. Be that as it may, absinthe is now legal again in the United States. 2 ounces white rum Juice of ½ lemon ½ ounce absinthe substitute, sold as absinthe in liquor stores Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Pour (unstrained) into cocktail glass.

HOT BUTTERED RUM 1 teaspoon sugar 2 ounces dark rum 4 whole cloves ½ teaspoon butter Pinch of nutmeg Into an 8-ounce mug, pour sugar and rum. Add cloves. Fill with boiling water and stir. Float butter on top. Sprinkle with nutmeg and add a cinnamon stick, if desired.

HOT TODDY 1 teaspoon sugar 2 ounces dark rum 3 ounces hot water Lemon or orange peel to garnish Nutmeg, to dust Mix sugar and rum in a tankard. Add hot water and stir. Add lemon twist or orange peel. Sprinkle nutmeg on top.

MAI-TAI In some quarters it is alleged that it is not a true Mai-Tai unless you top it with a dash of 151 proof rum. Take your pick. 1½ ounces fresh lime juice 1½ ounces Curacao 1½ ounces white rum ½ ounce grenadine syrup Cherry, pineapple slice and mint sprig to garnish Pour ingredients into an old-fashioned or stemmed glass half filled with finely cracked ice. Stir gently once or twice. Garnish with a cherry, pineapple stick and fresh mint sprig. Serve with a short straw.

MARIPOSA 1 ounce dark rum ½ ounce brandy 2 ounces orange juice 1 ounce lemon juice Dash of grenadine syrup Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

MILLIONAIRE COCKTAIL 2 ounces dark rum Juice of ½ lime 1 ounce sloe gin ½ ounce apricot brandy Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Pour (unstrained) into a cocktail glass.

MINT CRUSH 8 fresh mint leaves, washed and wiped clean ½ teaspoon powdered sugar 2 ounces dark rum Mull mint leaves and sugar in an old-fashioned glass. Add cracked ice and rum. Fill with water and stir. Decorate with mint sprig.

MONKEY WRENCH Pour 2 ounces white rum into a highball glass with cracked ice. Fill with grapefruit juice and stir.

MORRO 1 ounce dark rum ½ ounce dry gin 1 ounce Rose’s lime juice 1 ounce pineapple juice Dip rim of old-fashioned glass in sugar and fill with ice cubes. Mix all ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice. Shake well and strain into glass.

NATIONAL COCKTAIL 2 ounces white or dark rum ½ ounce pineapple juice ¼ ounce Rose’s lime juice ½ ounce apricot brandy Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Pour (unstrained) into a cocktail glass.

NAVY GROG (WHAT KEPT THE BRITISH NAVY AFLOAT UNTIL RECENT TIMES) 1 ounce white rum 2 ounces dark rum Juice of 1 lime 1 ounce orange juice 1 ounce pineapple juice 1 ounce passion fruit nectar Mint sprigs to garnish Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Pour (unstrained) into an oldfashioned glass. Decorate with mint sprigs and serve with two short straws.

NUCLEAR BLAST A drink very popular in Ponce a few years back. My Uncle Carlos told me he once downed three of these things at one sitting and lost all movement in his legs. 2 ounces anisette 3 ounces white or dark rum Pour into an old-fashioned glass and mix. Serve neat.

PIÑA COLADA 1 ounce cream of coconut 2 ounces white or dark rum 1 ounces unsweetened pineapple juice Blend ingredients in a blender with cracked ice for 10 to 20 seconds and pour (unstrained) into a 10-ounce glass. Garnish with pineapple slice and serve with a straw.

PLANTERS PUNCH NO.1 1 ounce fresh lime juice 5 dashes angostura bitters 2 teaspoons powdered sugar 3 ounces dark rum Club soda Cherry, lime, orange slice and mint sprig to garnish Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Pour (unstrained) into a 10ounce glass. Fill with club soda. Stir and decorate with a cherry, lime and orange slices and sprig of mint. Serve with a straw.

PLANTERS PUNCH NO. 2 1 ounce fresh lime juice 1 teaspoon powdered sugar 1 teaspoon grenadine syrup 2 ounces dark rum Club soda Cherry, lime, orange slice and mint sprig to garnish Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Pour (unstrained) into a 10ounce glass. Fill with club soda. Stir and decorate with a cherry, lime and orange slices and sprig of mint. Serve with a straw.

RUM ALEXANDER 1 ounce dark rum 1 ounce creme de cacao 1 ounce light cream Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Strain into a cocktail glass and serve.

RUM BUCK 2 ounces white rum 1 ounce Cointreau ½ teaspoon lemon juice ½ teaspoon powdered sugar Club soda Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Strain into an 8-ounce glass. Add one ice cube and fill with club soda.

RUM BLOODY MARY 2 ounces white rum 4 ounces tomato juice ½ ounce lemon juice Dash of Worcestershire sauce 2 drops tabasco sauce Pinch of salt and black pepper Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Pour (unstrained) into an oldfashioned glass and garnish with a stalk of celery.

RUM AND CIDER Pour 2 ounces dark rum into a mug. Fill with hot apple cider. Add 3 to 4 cloves, lemon slice and stir.

RUM COBBLER 1 teaspoon powdered sugar 2 ounces club soda 2 ounces dark rum In a goblet or mug, dissolve sugar in club soda. Fill goblet or mug with shaved or fine ice. Add rum and stir. Serve with a straw.

RUM AND COLA Juice of ½ lime 1½ ounces dark rum To the old folks, this is known as a Cuba Libre. Squeeze lime juice and drop lime into a 10-ounce glass. Fill with rum, ice cubes and favorite cola.

RUM COLLINS Juice of 1 lime or lemon 1 teaspoon powdered sugar 2 ounces white rum Club soda Lemon slice and cherry, to garnish Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Pour (unstrained) into a highball glass and fill with club soda. Stir and serve with a straw. Decorate with lemon slice and a cherry.

RUM COOLER FOR ONE 3 ounces pineapple-grapefruit juice (or favorite juice mix) 2 ounces white or dark rum Cherry, slice of lemon, lime, or orange, to garnish Pour rum over ice cubes in a highball glass and fill with fruit juice. Add a cherry and decorate with slice of orange, lemon or lime.

RUM COOLER 1 6-ounce can favorite frozen juice concentrate 1 can club soda 1 cup white or dark rum Cherry, slice of orange, lemon, or lime, to garnish Mix ingredients in a blender, gradually adding cracked ice until blender is full. Blend to desired consistency. Decorate with cherries and slices of orange, lemon or lime. Serves 6 to 8.

RUM DAISY 2 ounces white rum Juice of ½ lemon Juice of ½ lime or ½ ounce Rose’s lime juice 1 teaspoon powdered sugar 2 dashes grenadine syrup Splash of club soda Fill 8-ounce metal cup with shaved ice. Pour in ingredients and stir until cup is frosted.

RUM FIZZ Juice of ½ lemon 1½ ounce white rum 1 teaspoon powdered sugar Club soda Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Pour (unstrained) into a highball glass and fill with club soda.

RUM GIMLET 2 ounces white rum ½ ounce Rose’s lime juice Slice of lime, to garnish Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Strain into a 4-ounce chilled cocktail glass or serve on the rocks. Add a thin slice of lime.

RUM HIGHBALL Pour 1½ ounces dark rum over ice cubes in a highball glass (6 to 8 ounces). Fill with ginger ale, club soda or favorite mixer. Add a slice of lemon or lime and stir.

RUM AND HOT CHOCOLATE Pour 2 ounces dark rum into a cup of hot chocolate or cocoa. Top with a swirl of whipped cream.

RUM MANHATTAN 1 ounces dark rum 1 ounce sweet vermouth Dash of angostura bitters Cherry, to garnish Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and stir. Strain into a chilled 4-ounce cocktail glass or serve on the rocks. Garnish with a cherry.

RUM MARGARITA 1½ ounces white rum ½ ounce Triple Sec 1 ounce lemon or lime juice Moisten rim of cocktail glass with rind of lemon or lime. Dip rim in salt. Mix all ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice. Shake well and strain into cocktail glass.

RUM MARTINI 2 ounces white rum ½ ounce dry vermouth Shake or stir well with cracked ice. Strain into a 4-ounce chilled cocktail glass or serve on the rocks. Add twist of lemon peel, green olive or cocktail onion. NOTE: Purists say that a martini—any martini—should be stirred (ever so gently) and never shaken. I’m not a martini

expert so I can’t say which is best. We all agree that, if serving straight, it should be poured into a frosty and stemmed cocktail glass.

RUM OLD FASHIONED Some old-timers claim that a real rum old fashioned is not complete without a dash of 151 proof rum floated on top. Proceed with care. 1 teaspoon powdered sugar 2 dashed angostura bitters 2 ounces club soda 2 ice cubes 2 ounces dark rum Cherry or orange slice, to garnish In an old-fashioned glass (8 ounces), mix sugar, bitters and soda. Add ice cubes and rum. Add cherry and decorate with orange slice.

BASIC RUM PUNCH 1 “fifth” (25.6 ounces) bottle white rum 1 “fifth” (25.6 ounces) bottle dark rum 2 cups lemon or lime juice 1 cup powdered sugar 1 pint strong tea (regular orange pekoe; do not use herbal tea) 2 quarts club soda Fruit slices, to decorate Mix ingredients in a punch bowl filled with ice. Stir well and decorate with fruit. Serves 24.

RUM PUNCH NO.2 ½ cup lemon juice ¼ cup sugar 1 cup cranberry juice 1 cup orange juice 1 cup strong tea (regular orange pekoe; do not use herbal tea) 1 “fifth” (25.6 ounces) bottle white or dark rum 12 cloves Lemon slice, to garnish In a punch bowl, mix lemon juice, sugar, cranberry juice, orange juice and tea. Add rum, cloves and ice cubes to chill. Decorate with thin lemon slices. Serves 15.

RUM PUNCH NO. 3 ¾ cup boiling water ⅓ cup ground tea leaves 1 quart dark rum 1 pint lemon juice 1 cup powdered sugar 1 quart club soda Orange, lemon, and pineapple to garnish Mix boiling water with tea. Let stand 5 minutes, strain and let cool. In a large container, mix tea, rum, lemon juice and sugar. Chill for 1 hour. Pour over ice in a punch bowl. Add club soda and mix well. Decorate with orange, lemon and pineapple slices. Serves 15.

CHAMPAGNE RUM PUNCH ½ pound powdered sugar 1 cups fresh lemon juice 2 medium pineapples, peeled, cored, sliced and chopped ½ cup Curacao ½ cup cherry juice 1 quart dark rum 4 bottles cold champagne In a large container, dissolve sugar in the lemon juice. Add pineapples, Curaçao, cherry juice and rum. Mix well and chill for 2 hours. Pour into punch bowl filled with ice. Add champagne and stir gently. Serves 20 (2 drinks apiece).

CHRISTMAS RUM PUNCH 1 cup orange juice 1 10-ounce jar maraschino cherries ½ cup lemon juice 1 orange, sliced thinly 2 lemons, sliced thinly 1 cup sliced pineapples ½ cup powdered sugar ¾ ounce Curacao 1 “fifth” (25.6 ounces) bottle dark rum 1 (25 ounces) bottle club soda In a punch bowl, mix orange juice, lemon juice, cherries and their liquid. Add orange, lemon and pineapple slices. Blend in sugar, Curaçao and rum. Chill 2 hours. Just before serving, add club soda and ice. Serves 15.

FISH HOUSE RUM PUNCH 1 cup powdered sugar 3 cups fresh lime juice 1½ quarts club soda 2 quarts white rum 1 quart dark rum ½ cup peach brandy Fruit, to garnish Mix ingredients in a punch bowl filled with ice. Stir well and decorate with assorted fruit. Serves 20 to 25.

RUM FRUIT PUNCH 4 ounces pineapple juice 6 ounces orange juice 6 ounces Rose’s lime juice 1 “fifth” (25.6 ounces) bottle white rum Sugar to taste 1 (25 ounces) bottle club soda Orange, lemon, and lime slices to garnish Mix pineapple juice, orange and lime juice in a large container. Add rum and sugar. Chill 2 hours. Pour mixture into a punch bowl filled with ice. Add club soda and decorate with thin slices of orange, lemons and limes. Serves 15 to 20.

HOLIDAY RUM PUNCH ½ cup lemon juice ¼ cup powdered sugar 1 cup cranberry juice 1 cup orange juice 1 cup strong tea (regular orange pekoe, do not use herbal tea) 1 “fifth” (25.6 ounces) bottle dark rum 12 whole cloves Lemon and orange slices, to garnish In a punch bowl, mix lemon juice, sugar, cranberry juice, orange juice and tea. Blend in rum and cloves. Decorate with lemon and orange slices. Serves 15.

PARTY RUM PUNCH 16 ounces orange juice 16 ounces pineapple juice (unsweetened) 16 ounces club soda 3 ounces Rose’s lime juice 16 ounces white or dark rum Sugar, to taste Strawberry slices, to garnish Pour ingredients into a large punch bowl filled with ice cubes. Add sugar. Stir and float thin strawberry slices on top. Serves 12.

RIVERA FAMILY PARTY PUNCH The one party punch that does not contain rum. 1 24-ounce bottle grape juice 6 cups fresh orange juice or 2 6-ounce cans frozen orange juice concentrate ¼ cup fresh lemon juice 1 17-ounce can fruit cocktail Sugar to taste 4 10-ounce cans beer (do not use dark beer or ale) 1 10-ounce bottle club soda or seltzer In a large bowl, combine grape juice, orange juice, lemon juice, fruit cocktail and sugar. Set aside. Just before serving, add beer, club soda and ice to chill. Serve in tall highball glasses, garnished with a cherry, orange and lemon slices. Serves 15 to 20.

RUM RICKY Juice of ½ lime 2 ounces white rum Club soda Squeeze juice and drop lime into 10 ounce glass. Add ice cubes and rum; fill with club soda.

RUM SANGAREE ½ teaspoon powdered sugar 1 teaspoon water 2 ounces white or dark rum 1 tablespoon sweet (ruby) port Nutmeg, to garnish Fill a highball glass with ice cubes. Pour in ingredients and stir. Float the port on top and sprinkle lightly with nutmeg.

RUM SOUR Juice of ½ lemon 2 ounces dark rum ½ teaspoon powdered sugar Cherry and ½ orange slice, to garnish Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Strain into whisky sour glass (6 ounces) or serve on the rocks. Add cherry and decorate with ½ orange slice.

RUM STINGER 2 ounces dark rum 1 ounce white créme de menthe Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice. Shake well and strain into cocktail glass or serve on the rocks.

RUM SWIZZLE 1 ounce Rose’s lime juice 1 teaspoon powdered sugar 2 ounces club soda Dash angostura bitters 2 ounces white rum Mix lime juice, sugar and club soda in a highball glass. Fill with ice, bitters and rum. Stir, fill with more club soda and serve with a swizzle stick.

SHANGHAI 2 ounces dark rum Juice of ½ lemon 1 teaspoon anisette ½ teaspoon grenadine syrup Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Strain into old-fashioned glass.

SINGAPORE SLING 2 ounces white rum Juice of ½ lemon 1 teaspoon powdered sugar Dash of angostura bitters 1 ounce cherry liqueur Lemon and cherry, to garnish Club soda Pour ingredients into a highball glass. Add lemon peel and a cherry. Fill with club soda and serve.

SCORPION 2 ounces white rum ½ ounce gin ½ ounce brandy 1 ounce white wine 1 ounce orgeat (a sweet, almond- flavored, nonalcoholic syrup) 1 ounce orange juice Juice of 1 lemon Mint sprig, to garnish Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Pour (unstrained) into a 6ounce fluted champagne glass. Decorate with mint sprig.

TOM AND JERRY (TRADITIONAL RECIPE) 1 egg 1 teaspoon powdered sugar 2 ounces white rum Splash of añejo rum Nutmeg, to garnish Separate yolk from egg white. Beat egg white thoroughly, adding sugar and beating to a stiff froth. Beat egg yolk separately and combine with egg white. Pour rum in an 8-ounce mug. Add boiling water and 1 tablespoon of egg mixture. Sprinkle with nutmeg and serve.

TOM AND JERRY (MODERN APPROACH) 1 egg 1 teaspoon powdered sugar 2 ounces white rum Splash of añejo rum Nutmeg, to garnish Mix egg and sugar in an electric blender. Blend in rum. Pour mixture into an 8-ounce mug. Add boiling water slowly while stirring to keep egg from curdling. Sprinkle with nutmeg and serve.

RUM AND TONIC Pour 2 ounces white rum into a 10-ounce glass filled with ice cubes. Fill with tonic water. Add a slice of lime and stir.

TORRIDORA 2 ounces white or dark rum ½ ounce Kahlua 2 teaspoons light cream ½ ounce 151 proof rum Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Strain into a cocktail glass and float 151 proof rum on top.

TRINIDAD COCKTAIL 2 ounces dark rum 2 dashes angostura bitters Juice of ½ lime 1 ounce grenadine syrup Twist of lemon, to garnish Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Strain into a cocktail glass and serve with a twist of lemon peel.

ZOMBIE One can surmise how this drink got its name. 1 ounce dark rum 2 ounces white rum 1 ounce 151 proof rum 2 teaspoons apricot brandy 1 ounce orange juice 1 ounce pineapple juice Juice of 1 lime 1 teaspoon powdered sugar Cherry, pineapple, and green cherry, to garnish Mix ingredients in a shaker with cracked ice and shake well. Pour (unstrained) into a 10ounce glass. Spike on a toothpick in the order given: 1 red cherry, 1 pineapple stick, 1 green cherry. Decorate with sprig of mint and sprinkle powdered sugar over all. NOTE: Amazingly, some stalwarts, along with the sugar, like to float ½ ounce 151 proof rum on top.

NON-ALCOHOLIC DRINKS CARIBBEAN LIMEADE Juice of 1 lime 2 teaspoons sugar Club soda Lime slice and cherry, to garnish Squeeze juice of lime into 10-ounce glass. Add sugar, fill with ice cubes and club soda. Stir and garnish with slice of lime and a cherry. Serve with a straw.

CHOCOLATE EGG CREAM This section would not be complete without our favorite egg cream recipe. If you’re a New Yorker, of whatever persuasion, the love of a good egg cream comes natural. This is something that our friends from other parts of the land, particularly the South and Midwest, cannot understand. A transplanted Northerner, however, would have a hard time trying to figure out a Georgian’s love of hominy grits. It’s a regional thing. Egg creams are a part of our life. Yet like everything of legend, there are points of contention. Primarily among these is which chocolate syrup to use. This is as controversial among egg cream fanciers as the Big Bang theory is among physicists. I prefer Fox’s U-Bet chocolate syrup. Some of my cohorts prefer Nestle’s chocolate. Still others prefer Bosco. As if that wasn’t enough, “real students” of egg creams state that half chocolate and half milk will give a richer more flavorful egg cream. As for that “egg” in the drink, you can beat in one whole egg white. This was the way it was originally done back in the old days, but not anymore. In recent times some reconstructionists even espoused the addition of chocolate ice cream to the glass. Let me state categorically: that is not an egg cream. That would make it an ice cream soda. ½ cup ice-cold milk 2 tablespoons chocolate syrup Seltzer (do not use club soda) Egg creams taste best if you can use one of those old-fashioned inverted bell-shaped soda glasses. So, into one of these glasses, pour the milk. Add seltzer, stirring the mixture with a long spoon, until foam reaches rim of glass. Add chocolate syrup, stirring as you go, until mixture is a rich brown and egg cream has a foamy white head.

GRENADINE HIGHBALL 1½ ounces grenadine syrup Club soda Cherry, to garnish Pour grenadine syrup into a highball glass. Fill glass with ice cubes and club soda. Stir, garnish with a cherry and serve with a straw.

ORCHATA DE AJONJOLÍ (SESAME SEED DRINK) ½ cup sesame seeds 1 cup water ½ cup lukewarm water 2 tablespoons sugar Rinse sesame seeds under cold running water. Place in cup of water and let steep for 3 hours. Strain. Discard water and grind seeds in a mortar. Add lukewarm water. Stir and strain into a small saucepan or mug. Add sugar and stir. Serve in tall glass filled with ice and garnished with fresh mint.

ORCHATA DE COCO (COCONUT JUICE DRINK) 2 cups sugar 1 ripe coconut 2 quarts water Cherry, to garnish Crack coconut shell with mallet or hammer and break into small pieces. Place pieces in oven on low setting and heat for 5 minutes to soften shell. With a small paring knife, remove coconut from shell. Grate coconut with a grater or in a food processor or blender. Place coconut in a piece of cheesecloth or moist handkerchief. Press contents with hands to strain coconut milk into a bowl or saucepan. Add water and sugar. Chill. Serve in cocktail glass with a cherry. Serves 8.

MAVÍ This Puerto Rican favorite has been with us a long time, and it is as popular here on the mainland as it is on the island. We savor it all year round; but it’s especially in demand when the first hint of summer begins to heat up the pavements in the Barrio and the South Bronx. You’ll find as many people enjoying a chilled maví (ma-bee) as those imbibing cold beer or soda pop. Maví comes to us from the Taino Indians who created this fermented beverage from sugar water and the bark of the maví, a native root. Its scientific name is colurina reclinata; and it produces an amber-colored drink with a flavor akin to sweet root beer. Naturally, when the Spaniards came to Puerto Rico in the 16th century they soon adopted this thirst quencher. Like coquito, it is a home brew; although it is sold in profusion in local eateries and from street cart vendors. Though it is fermented, the alcohol content is minimal or nonexistent. It does get alcoholic the longer it ferments. It also goes sour. So by the time it’s alcoholic, it’s turned to vinegar. You’re not going to get a buzz from drinking maví. In fact, on the island ice-cold maví is a special favorite among school children. To make maví, you must first have some prepared maví on hand. This acts as a starter, similar to the use of an older fortified wine to make sherry. You also need maví bark. In New York this can be found in the Marqueta (to be precise, at stall #475) for about five bucks a pound. The rest is just mixing with as much sugar as you want for the required sweetness. 1 ounce mavi bark 2½ cups water 2 cups lukewarm water ¾ to 1 cup brown sugar 1¼ cups maví Place water in saucepan. Add maví bark and boil on moderate-low heat until water takes on a golden-amber color. Strain into another pan. Stir liquid vigorously until foamy. Add lukewarm water, sugar and maví. Stir to mix. Place in open bottles for 24 hours, allowing the developing gases to escape. Close the bottles with tight caps and refrigerate until icecold. Serves 5.

JUGO DE GUANÁBANA (SOURSOP JUICE) 1 medium-sized soursop, about 2 pounds (see glossary) 2 tablespoons sugar 2 cups water ½ cup evaporated milk ½ teaspoon vanilla extract Sugar to taste Split soursop in half and remove white pulp. Combine pulp, sugar and water in a bowl. Mix well. Strain in a colander into another bowl, pressing on the pulp to extract all the juice. The juice should be thin and milky. Add evaporated milk and vanilla extract. Add more sugar to taste. Store in closed containers or bottles and chill. Makes 1 quart.

REFRESCO DE PARCHA (PASSION FRUIT BEVERAGE) In Ponce, my parents were very fortunate in that they had a passion fruit tree in the backyard. This is very common in the tropics. All my mother’s neighbors had some sort of fruit tree out back, be it lime, papaya or mango. The fruit juices from these beauties help them endure the afternoon heat. Passion fruit has a flavor hard to describe. Let’s just say it’s heavenly. On the mainland you can look for it in ethnic fruit stands or greengrocers. 6 large passion fruit 1 quart water ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 2 cups sugar Cut passion fruit in half. Extract the inner juicy pulp with a spoon. Place in a blender and purée for 3 minutes. Place purée in cheesecloth or moist handkerchief. Press contents with your hands, straining juice into a bowl or saucepan. Add water, vanilla and sugar. Stir to mix. Store in a large bottle with a tight cap and chill. Serves 4.

REFRESCO DE RAÍCES (ROOT BARK BEVERAGE) This beverage comes from a root bark called catire (ka-tee-reh). The root comes in a small pack and, like maví bark, can be found in La Marqueta or a botanica, one of those quaint shops found in Hispanic neighborhoods that specialize in selling roots, herbs and religious objects. The root is grown in the hilly interior of Puerto Rico. I prefer this drink to maví simply because of its lively red color and a taste that is more like an exotic fruit juice. 2 4-ounce packets catire root 2 quarts water 2 cups sugar Place catire root and water in a large pot or saucepan. Boil at moderate-high heat for 20 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. Strain into a saucepan or bowl. Add sugar and stir. Store in bottles with a tight cap or cork and chill. Serves 8.

JUGO DE TAMARINDO Tamarind fruit comes from a tree widely cultivated in the tropics. This tree (Tamarindus indica) yields a small pod containing seeds enclosed in a juicy pulp that is used both for cooking and making tamarind juice. The tree also supplies a hard yellowish wood that has many uses in woodworking. The juice of the tamarind seed is reputed to have medicinal properties; and is considered by oldtimers to be beneficial for minor stomach ailments such as indigestion and irregularity. Tamarind seeds come pre-packaged and can be found in the Marqueta or Hispanic stores. 2 quarts (8 cups) water 2 8-ounce packets tamarind seeds with pulp 2 cups sugar Bring water to a boil in a pot or saucepan. Add tamarind seeds and cook for 5 minutes. Strain liquid into a bowl. Add sugar and stir. Place in bottles with a tight cap or cork. Chill. Serves 8.

VIRGIN BANANA DAIQUIRI Follow instructions for Banana Daiquiri (see page 303) but substitute club soda for rum.

VIRGIN PEACH DAIQUIRI Follow instructions for Peach Daiquiri (see page 303) but substitute club soda for rum.

VIRGIN PINEAPPLE DAIQUIRI Follow instructions for Pineapple Daiquiri (see page 304) but substitute club soda for rum.

VIRGIN STRAWBERRY DAIQUIRI Follow instructions for Strawberry Daiquiri (see page 304) but substitute club soda for rum.

VIRGIN FIZZ Juice of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon sugar Club soda Cherry, to garnish Squeeze lemon juice into a 10-ounce glass. Add sugar, fill with ice and club soda. Stir, garnish with a cherry and serve with a straw.

VIRGIN RICKEY Juice of ½ lime 2 ounces grenadine syrup Club soda Squeeze juice and drop lime into a 10-ounce glass. Add ice cubes and grenadine and fill with club soda.

AFTERWORD If a culture can be measured by its gastronomy, then Puerto Rican culture is rich indeed. This richness has been heightened by its Nuyorican component. We’ve already noted the varied influences upon island cooking, especially by that generation that migrated to the mainland. All this has made of our cooking something that is constantly unfolding and expanding. As a people, we are passionate, expansive and expressive. We carry our hearts on our sleeves and let everyone know it. We are the descendants of those who have trod Caribbean soil, from African slaves, to Spanish explorers, to British pirates. Our rulers have included colonial governors from Madrid and American admirals on battleships off San Juan Harbor. We’ve traveled from domino parlors in the island’s interior to the social clubs of East Harlem, from the bodegas of Upper Broadway to the poetry readings of the Lower East Side. We retrace our roots every time we board a flight to San Juan. True, a lot of Nuyoricans do not feel at home in sleepy hill towns. So we escape back to the concrete and mayhem of the mainland, feeling more at home among steel girders yet still dreaming of ice cold maví and plantains. It is this contradiction that gives our cuisine its character. We have no qualms about adding culantro and recao to a lasagna to fortify its flavor, or mixing pasta with a mondongo; or experimenting with our version of meatballs. This changing and redefining of ourselves is ever constant. In reality there’s nothing to worry about. Puerto Rican cooking has been with us since before the founding of the U.S. Republic, and it’ll be with us for a long time to come. And the influence isn’t all one sided either, since sofrito and adobo now can be found in the food marts of the fashionable East Side as well as on 110th Street. Take a stroll down the supermarket aisle and you’ll find Puerto Rican beans and soups right up there alongside kosher products and Chinese dumplings. Our food mirrors our temperament, even in the colder northern climes. It’s a robust cuisine, some would call it lusty. Like all good things, it’s embedded in the heart. This was recently reaffirmed when I once attended a writers seminar at the University of Boston. I was one of a panel of three Latino writers that had been invited to participate in the workshop. Besides yours truly, the panel consisted of a university professor-cum-novelist and short story writer, and a well known Latino poet. We hailed from different parts of the country. Our Puerto Rican kinship tied us together. Otherwise, we were as different in outlook, opinions and convictions as any group could be. The university professor was an ardent Independentista who proclaimed Puerto Rican nationhood at every turn. The poet was a Nuyorican who had migrated to Boston, and an attorney. My academic compadre was a handsome aristocrat who considered “Spanglish” to be a corruption of the revered Spanish tongue. My poet-lawyer friend thought of it as an expression, similar to today’s rap music, of a people’s energy and eloquence. I was somewhere in the middle, not being political and not quite ready to agree that rap was akin to “Spanglish.” To my thinking, rap is the province of a younger set and—just like my parents who used to complain about rock ’n’ roll—I don’t understand it. It’s not music to my ears. The poetry of Garcia Lorca

is music to my ears; the prose of Gabriel García Márquez, the rhythmic cadence of Julio Marzán, that’s poetry to me. But my novelist-professor friend felt the same way about our inventive Nuyorican argot. And we clashed and battled at the seminar. Yet we came together in that sphere of the soul that harkens back to an idiom we all understand: food. One week into the workshop, my intellectual Independentista friend pleaded that he couldn’t take another day of hamburgers and hot dogs. Truthfully, neither could I, nor the award-winning poet. We needed to have some criollo cooking. Like fish out of water gasping for air, we found ourselves floundering on alien shores. We scoured the fine city of Boston and fortunately came upon one single, solitary establishment specializing in native cuisine: Izzy’s Restaurant and Sub Shop on Harvard Street. Yes, the place is called Izzy’s. We shed tears of joy upon sighting this small hole-in-the-wall eatery in Cambridge. We went to town on mofongo, stewed chicken, eggplant with codfish and conch meat salad. Finally, we three were one. Puerto Rican nationalist, Nuyorican, assimilationist, none of the labels applied at this sitting as we dissected literature, national politics, sports and the old time hits of Celia Cruz and Pérez Prado. We left the place arm in arm, with the fervor of brothers in combat. Fried pork with yellow rice, the great equalizer. Hopefully, the recipes given in this tome will help engender that same feeling of wellbeing.

GLOSSARY Achiote (ah-chee-oh-teh): annato seeds. When steeped in olive oil or vegetable oil, the seeds render an orange-yellow pigment used to give color to food. Adobo: seasoning mix of salt, ground pepper, oregano and garlic which is rubbed into meat, fish or poultry. Aguacate: avocado Ají Dulce (ah-hee dool-seh): sweet chili pepper. Small, round green or reddish-yellow pepper that has a mild, slightly sweet flavor. It is not a hot pepper. Ajo (ah-ho): garlic Alcaparrado: a mix of olives, pimentos and capers found in Latino and Caribbean markets. It comes in 4½ and 8 ounce jars. Alcapurrias: green bananas stuffed with ground beef and deep-fried. Añejo (an-yeh-ho): rum that is aged over three years. Considered to be the premier rum among connoisseurs. Asopao (ah-so-pa-oh): a thick stew. The main ingredient could be chicken, beef or vegetables, and it usually contains rice. Atún: tuna fish Bacalao (ba-ka-la-oh): salted codfish Blanda (bee-an-dah): generic name for all native root plants such as yams, cassava, yautía, etc. They are usually peeled, boiled and served with olive oil. Biftec: Spanglish for “beefsteak.” Bijol (bee-hol): a processed condiment consisting of corn, bixa, cumin and certified dyes (Yellow No. 5 and Red No. 40). Used as a food coloring, especially for yellow rice. Berro: watercress Bodega: a mom and pop grocery store Boricua (bo-ree-kuah): an inhabitant of Borinquen, the Taino Indian name for Puerto Rico. Hence a Boricua is a native bom Puerto Rican. Borinquen (bo-reen-ken): see Boricua. Cafetín: pl. CAFETÍNES (ca-feh-tee-ness): local eating and drinking establishments. They dot the island of Puerto Rico and though known as “cafes,” some are no more than a tin shack with a few tables dishing out sandwiches, rum, beer and domino games. Caldera: heavy pot made of cast iron or cast aluminum and used mainly for cooking rice and stews. Chayote: water pear or christophine. Pear-shaped vegetable found in the Caribbean, Florida and Louisiana. The skin is prickly and the inner flesh is similar in taste to summer squash. Coquito: coconut-based rum drink which seems like eggnog but is much more potent. Criollo (kree-oh-yo): anything that is native to the island of Puerto Rico or any other part of Latin America; though it usually refers to the cuisine. Originally, relating to a person of European parentage born in the West Indies or Latin America. Cuchifritos (cu-chee-free-tos): fried pork products (see frituras) Culantro: cilantro: A popular condiment in our cuisine. The culantro plant has long serrated leaves and grows in profusion in the Caribbean. Empanada: meat pie stuffed with pork or beef and deep-fried. Also called EMPANADILLAS (em-pa-na-dee-yas) for smaller pocket-pie version. Escabeche (es-ka-beh-che): a pickling or marinade. A mix of oil, vinegar, garlic, onion and other spices that is used with fish, poultry or meat. Fiestas Patronales: Feast of the Patron Saints. In Puerto Rico, every town, hamlet and village has a patron saint to whom homage is given on a certain day. This day is set aside as a feast day with song and merriment. For example,

the patron saint of Ponce, where my parents lived, is Saint Carmen; and the feast day is July 17. Frituras (free-too-rass): fritters. Mainly deep-fried pork products such as crackling. Gandules: pigeon peas; a legume that is mainly cooked with rice. Guanábana: soursop. A tree native to the West Indies which bears a large pulpy, edible fruit. There’s a slight acidic taste when eaten raw, but it makes a delicious beverage. Guanimes: cornmeal sticks Guineitos (ghee-neh-ee-tos): also, guineitos niños. Small type of banana about the size of a thumb. When ripe, they are very sweet and are served deep-fried in batter. Guineos (ghee-neh-os): green bananas Habichuelas (ah-bee-chu-eh-las): beans. Also called FRIJOLES (free-ho-less) and GRANOS (grah-nos). Hongo (on-goh): mushroom Independentista: someone who espouses independence for the island of Puerto Rico. Jueyes (who-eh-yes): land crabs once common on the island and prized for their flavor. Malanga: a round brown rootstock with an off-white pulp. Maví (ma-bee): fermented beverage made with sugar, water and the bark of the maví tree. Mofongo: fried crushed plantains mixed with garlic and pork crackling. Mondongo: thick stew made with tripe, calf’s feet and assorted bianda. Ñame: a tuberous root plant that is similar in texture to a yam. Pan de Agua: “bread made with water.” A special loaf very popular on the island and in Spanish Harlem. The bread must be consumed the same day. If stored overnight, it will become a brick. Pasteles: plantain pies wrapped in plantain leaves and stuffed with ground pork and beef. Pastelón: layered meat pie Pernil: roasted pork shoulder. The traditional dish for Christmas and Easter. Picadillo (pee-ka-dee-yo): a dish of seasoned ground beef served over rice. Piñon: (peen-yon): a casserole made with beef and ripe plantains. Queso Blanco: farmer’s white cheese Recao (reh-Ka-oh): small leafy plant ideal for seasoning since it imparts a tangy flavor. Rellenos (reh-yeh-nos): a stuffing or stuffed product such as papas rellenas (stuffed potatoes) or rellenos de harina de maíz (stuffed cornmeal). Salmorejo: fish salad Sancocho: a hefty stew that includes just about everything: beef, pork, chicken, root plants, plantains and other vegetables. Sofrito (so-free-to): an aromatic mix of herbs and spices used as a base flavoring and seasoning. Spanglish: the lengua franca in East Harlem and similar areas where Puerto Ricans and other Latinos make up a majority. It combines English verbs with Spanish idioms and vice versa. Tembleque (tem-bleh-keh): a coconut custard Tostones: green plantains that are peeled, flattened and fried twice. Vivero (vee-veh-ro): poultry market Yautía (ya-oo-TEE-ah): tanier or dasheen; a white starchy root plant. Yuca (yoo-ka): cassava. Root plant found in Cuba, the Dominican Republic and other parts of the Caribbean. It can be large or small but always oblong in shape, with a coarse brown skin and pulp that is white fleshed and sticky. Zanahorias: carrots

INDEX A achiote, 10 adobo, about, 8, 10, 11, 326, 328 Ajo al Horno (Roasted Garlic), 282 Albóndigas Guisadas en Salsa (Meatballs Cooked in Sauce), 163 Albóndigas de Ternera (Veal Meatballs), 187 Alcapurrias, 30 Alcapurrias de Yuca, 31 appetizers. See also fritters Alcapurrias (Stuffed Green Bananas), 30 Alcapurrias de Yuca (Stuffed Casava), 31 Arepas de Maíz (Cornmeal Patties), 34 Domplines (Dumplings), 29 Empanadas de Yuca (Cassava Meat Pie), 37 Empanadillas (Stuffed Meat Pies), 36 Guanimes (Cornmeal Sticks), 34 Guineitos Niños (Finger Bananas), 39 Mofongo (Plantains and Pork Crackling), 33 Pan de Ajo (Garlic Bread), 40 Papas Rellenas (Stuffed Potato Balls), 32 Platanos Amarillos (Sweet Ripe Plantains), 27 Rellenos de Amarillos (Stuffed Ripe Plantains), 28 Rellenos de Harina de Maíz (Stuffed Cornmeal Balls), 35 Tostones (Fried Green Plantains), 26 Arepas de Maiz (Cornmeal Patties), 34 Arepas de Seso (Brain Patties), 172 Arroz Amarillo (Yellow Rice), 223 Arroz con Bacalao (Rice with Codfish), 228 Arroz Blanco (White Rice), 219 Arroz con Calamares (Rice with Squid), 230 Arroz con Carne Molida (Rice with Ground Beef), 234 Arroz con Cebolla (Onion Rice), 225 Arroz con Chorizo (Rice and Sausage), 228 Arroz con Dulce (Rice Pudding), 284 Arroz con Gandules (Rice with Pigeon Peas), 224 Arroz con Gandules y Carne de Cerdo (Rice with Pigeon Peas and Pork), 238 Arroz con Habichuelas (Rice and Beans), 222 Arroz con Hongo (Mushroom Rice), 227

Arroz con Huevos (Eggs and Rice), 251 Arroz con Jueyes (Rice with Crabmeat), 231 Arroz de Persa (Persian Rice), 234 Arroz con Pimiento (Pepper Rice), 226 Arroz con Pollo (Rice with Chicken), 232 Arroz con Polvo de Curry (Curried Rice), 226 Arroz Verde (Green Rice), 229 Asopao de Pollo (Chicken Stew), 130 Asopao de Gandules con Arroz, 51 Aunt Fanny’s pot roast, 159 Aunt Fanny’s white rice, 220 avocado Ensalada de Aguacate y Brocoli (Avocado-Broccoli Salad), 69 Ensalada de Aguacate y Hongo (Avocado-Mushroom Salad), 67 Ensalada de Aguacate y Jueyes (Avocado-Crabmeat Salad), 68 Gazpacho de Aguacate (Avocado Gazpacho Salad), 67

B Bacalao Guisado (Stewed Codfish), 100 Bacalao y Berenjena en Caserola (Codfish-Eggplant Casserole), 101 Bacalao con Huevos (Codfish with Eggs), 100 Bacalao con Papas en Caserola (Codfish-Potato Casserole), 101 Bacalao con Pimientos (Codfish with Peppers), 103 Baclaitos Fritos, 23 Banana Daiquiri, 303 bananas Alcapurrias (stuffed green bananas), 30 Banana Daiquiri, 303 Guineitos Niños (Finger Bananas), 39 Guineos con Crema De Coco (Bananas with Coconut Cream), 292 Guineos con Licor (Spirited Bananas), 290 Guineos y Papas en Escabeche (Marinated Green Bananas and Potatoes), 264 Barbecued Spareribs (Costillas de Cerdo al Horno), 204 Basic Bean Recipe oven method, 242 skillet method, 242 sofrito method, 241 Basic Rum Punch, 314 Basic White Sauce, 253 Bazooka (cocktail), 300 Beachcomber (cocktail), 300 Between the Sheets (cocktail), 300

Black Maria (cocktail), 300 Bolera Cocktail, 301 Borinquen (cocktail), 301 beans. See dry beans and peas; green beans beef. See also ground beef; veal Arepas de Seso (Brain Patties), 172 Biftec a la Criolla (Steak Creole Style), 165 Biftec Empanado (Breaded Beefsteak), 155 Biftec Estofado (Smothered Steak), 150 Biftec Flambé (Steak Flambé), 156 Biftec con Garbanzos (Beefsteak with Chickpeas), 153 Biftec al Horno (London Broil), 151 Biftec Relleno (Stuffed Beefsteak), 160 Carne Guisada (Beef Stew), 154 Carne Mechada (Pot Roast), 157 Carne de Pote con Habichuelas Tiernas (Corned Beef with Green Beans), 157 Carne con Tomate y Papas (Beef with Tomatoes and Potatoes), 167 Lengua Guisada (Stewed Tongue), 170 Mondongo, 50 Riñónes Guisados (Kidney Stew), 171 Ropa Vieja (Shredded Beef Stew), 169 Sancocho, 46 Sopa de los Lunes (Morning After Stew), 56 beefsteak, stuffing a, 161 Berenjena (Eggplant), 265 Berenjena Frita (Fried Eggplant Slices), 266 Berenjena Rellenada (Stuffed Eggplant), 268 beverages. See also cocktails and party drinks Caribbean Limeade, 321 Chocolate Egg Cream, 321 Jugo de Guanábana (soursop juice), 323 Jugo de Tamarindo, 324 Maví, 322 Orchata de Ajonjolí (sesame seed drink), 322 Orchata de Coco (coconut juice drink), 322 preferred with fritters and appetizers, 23 Refresco de Parcha (passion fruit beverage), 323 Refresco de Raíces (root bark beverage), 324 Bianda (Root Plants), 263 Biftec a la Criolla (Steak Creole Style), 165 Biftec Empanado (Breaded Beefsteak), 155 Biftec Estofado (Smothered Steak), 150

Biftec Flambé (Steak Flambé), 166 Biftec con Garbanzos (Beefsteak with Chickpeas), 153 Biftec al Horno (London Broil), 151 Biftec Relleno (Stuffed Beefsteak), 160 Biftec de Ternera (Veal Steaks), 184 Black Bean Soup (Frijoles Negros), 53 Brain Patties (Arepas de Seso), 172 Brocoli con Ajo (Broccoli with Garlic), 271 broccoli Brocoli con Ajo (Broccoli with Garlic), 271 Ensalada de Aguacate y Brocoli (Avocado-Broccoli Salad), 69 Ensalada de Brocoli (Broccoli Salad), 65 Budín (Bread Pudding), 287 Butifarrón (Meat Loaf), 162

C cabbage Ensalada de Repollo (Cole Slaw), 73 Sopa de Los Lunes, 56 Cabro Borracho (Drunken Goat), 213 Calamares Guisado (Stewed Squid), 120 Calamares Relleno (Stuffed Squid), 121 Caldo de Cornero (Lamb Stew), 210 Caldo Gallego (Galician Style Broth), 43 Caldo de Pollo (Chicken Stock), 44 Camarones con Cebolla (Shrimp with Onion), 115 Camarones en Escabeche (Pickled Shrimp), 116 Camarones Guisados (Stewed Shrimp), 113 Camarones Rellenos al Horno (Stuffed Shrimp), 114 Caribbean Limeade, 321 Carne de Cerdo con Hongo (Pork with Mushrooms), 198 Carne de Cerdo con Papas (Pork with Potatoes), 201 Carne de Cerdo al Pinchón (Pork Shishkebob), 202 Carne Guisada (Beef Stew), 154 Carne Mechada (Pot Roast), 157 Carne de Pote con Habichuelas Tiernas (Corned Beef with Green Beans), 157 Carne con Tomate y Papas (Beef with Tomatoes and Potatoes), 167 carrots Cabro Borracho (Drunken Goat), 213 Sopa de Los Lunes (Morning After Stew), 56 Zanahorias Doradas (Golden Carrots), 270 Carrucho (Conch Meat), 118

Casa Blanca (cocktail), 301 Caserola de Macarrones y Carne de Res (Macaroni and Beef Casserole), 175 cassava Alcapurrias de Yuca (Stuffed Cassava), 31 Empanadas de Yuca (Cassava Meat Pie), 37 Piñon (Beef/Plantain Casserole), 153 casseroles Bacalao y Berenjena en Caserola (Codfish-Eggplant Casserole), 101 Bacalao con Papas en Caserola (Codfish-Potato Casserole), 101 Caserola de Macarrones y Carne de Res (Macaroni and Beef Casserole), 175 Cebollas Rellenas (Stuffed Onions), 280 Champagne Rum Punch, 315 cheese Ensalada de Tomate, Queso y Cebolla (Tomato, Cheese and Onion Salad), 62 Tortilla de Jamón Y Queso (Ham and Cheese Omelet), 257 chicken Arroz con Pollo (Rice with Chicken), 232 Asopao de Pollo (Chicken Stew), 130 Caldo de Pollo (Chicken Stock), 44 Gallina al Horno (Roast Cornish Hens), 140 Guinea Guisada (Stewed Guinea Hen), 139 Higado de Pollo con Vino (Chicken Livers with Wine), 135 Higado en Salsa (Chicken Livers in Sauce), 136 Paella, 235 Pollo Asado a la Parrilla (Broiled Chicken), 130 Pollo en Capa (Layered Chicken), 137 Pollo Empanao (Breaded Chicken), 132 Pollo en Fricasé (Chicken Fricassée), 134 Pollo al Gallego (Galician Style Chicken), 138 Pollo Frito (Fried Chicken), 128 Pollo Guisapo (Stewed Chicken), 124 Pollo al Horno (Roast Chicken), 125 Pollo con Polvo de Curry (Curried Chicken), 133 Sancocho, 46 Sopa de Pollo con Fideos (Chicken Noodle Soup), 49 Chillo En Fricasé (Red Snapper Fricassee), 83 Chocolate Egg Cream, 321 chorizo Arroz con Chorizo (Rice and Sausage), 228 Lentejas Frescas con Chorizo (Lentils with Sausage), 245 Paella, 235 Pitipuas Guisadas con Chorizo (Stewed Green Peas with Sausage), 244

Sopa de Lentejas, 45 Christmas Rum Punch, 315 Chuletas de Cornero a la Parrilla (Broiled Lamb Chops), 207 Chuletas Empanadas (Breaded Pork Chops), 192 Chuletas Guisadas (Stewed Pork Chops), 194 Chuletas Rellenas (Stuffed Pork Chops), 193 Chuletas de Ternera a la Criolla (Veal Chops Creole Style), 179 Chuletas de Ternera a la Jardinera (Veal Chops a la Jardinera), 180 cocktails and party drinks. See also beverages Banana Daiquiri, 303 Basic Rum Punch, 314 Bazooka, 300 Beachcomber, 300 Between the Sheets, 300 Black Maria, 300 Bolera Cocktail, 301 Borinquen, 301 Casa Blanca, 301 Champagne Rum Punch, 315 Christmas Rum Punch, 315 Congo, 301 Coquito, 302 Daiquiri, 303 Eggnog for One, 304 El Presidente, 305 Fireman’s Sour, 306 Fish House Rum Punch, 315 Grasshopper, 306 Grenadine Highball, 322 Habaneros, 306 Holiday Rum Punch, 316 Homemade Eggnog, 304 Hot Buttered Rum, 306 Hot Toddy, 307 Frozen Daiquiri, 303 Mai-Tai, 307 Mariposa, 307 Millionaire Cocktail, 307 Mint Crush, 308 Monkey Wrench, 308 Morro, 308 National Cocktail, 308

Navy Grog, 308 Nuclear Blast, 309 Party Rum Punch, 316 Peach Daiquiri, 303 Piña Colada, 309 Pineapple Daiquiri, 304 Planters Punch No.1, 309 Planters Punch No. 2, 309 Prepared Eggnog, 305 Rivera Family Party Punch, 317 Rum Alexander, 310 Rum Buck, 310 Rum Bloody Mary, 310 Rum and Cider, 310 Rum Cobbler, 310 Rum and Cola, 311 Rum Collins, 311 Rum Cooler, 311 Rum Cooler for One, 311 Rum Daisy, 312 Rum Fizz, 312 Rum Fruit Punch, 312 Rum Gimlet, 312 Rum Highball, 312 Rum and Hot Chocolate, 312 Rum Manhattan, 313 Rum Margarita, 313 Rum Martini, 313 Rum Old Fashioned, 313 Rum Punch No. 2, 314 Rum Punch No. 3, 314 Rum Ricky, 317 Rum Sangaree, 317 Rum Sour, 317 Rum Stinger, 318 Rum Swizzle, 318 Rum and Tonic, 318 Scorpion, 319 Shanghai, 318 Singapore Sling, 318 Strawberry Daiquiri, 304 Tom and Jerry (modern), 319

Tom and Jerry (traditional), 319 Torridora, 320 Trinidad Cocktail, 320 Virgin Banana Daiquiri, 325 Virgin Fizz, 325 Virgin Peach Daiquiri, 325 Virgin Pineapple Daiquiri, 325 Virgin Ricky, 325 Virgin Strawberry Daiquiri, 325 Zombie, 320 coconut Arroz con Dulce (Rice Pudding), 284 Orchata de Coco (coconut juice drink), 322 Tembleque (Coconut Custard), 286 Codfish Fritters (Baclaitos Fritos), 23 Codorniz en Escabeche (Pickled Quail), 146 Cole Slaw (Ensalada de Repollo), 73 Collard Greens, 281 conch Carrucho (Conch Meat), 118 Ensalada de Carrucho (Conch Salad), 78 Conejo en Fricasé (Rabbit Fricassée), 175 Conejos Frito (Fried Rabbit), 174 Congo (cocktail), 301 Coquito (cocktail), 302 Corazones con Karina (Braised Hearts), 173 Corned Beef with Green Beans (Carne de Pote con Habichuelas Tiernas) 157 Cornero al Otro Día (Leftover Lamb), 212 Cornero Relleno (Stuffed Lamb), 211 Corn Fritters (Frituras de Maíz), 25 cornmeal Arepas de Maiz (Cornmeal Patties), 34 Guanimes (Cornmeal Sticks), 34 Rellenos de Harina de Maíz (Stuffed Cornmeal Balls), 35 Costillas de Cerdo al Horno (Barbecued Spareribs), 204 Cousin Yvonne’s white rice, 221 crab Arroz con Jueyes (Rice with Crabmeat), 231 Ensalada de Aguacate y Jueyes (Avocado-Crabmeat Salad), 68 Jueyes Criollo (Stewed Crabmeat), 109 Jueyes Herbidos (Boiled Crabs), 106 Jueyes Salmorejo (Crabmeat Salmorejo Style), 110

preparing for the serving table, 108 cucumbers Arepas de Maiz (Cornmeal Patties), 34 Ensalada De Macarrones y Atún (Macaroni-Tuna Salad), 72 Ensalada de Pepinillo (Cucumber Salad), 63 Gazpacho, 48 Gazpacho de Aguacate, 67 Curried Rice (Arroz Con Polvo de Curry), 226 Curried Veal (Ternera con Polvo de Curry), 185

D Daiquiri, 303 desserts Arroz con Dulce (Rice Pudding), 284 Budín (Bread Pudding), 287 Dulce de Lechose (Papaya Preserve), 291 Ensalada de Fruta (Fruit Salad), 294 Ensalada de Fruta al Gusto (Fruit Salad with Honey-Lime Pressing), 295 Flán de Calabaza (Pumpkin Flan), 289 Flán de Tio Carlos (Uncle Carlos’ Flan), 288 Frutas con Champaña (Fruit with Champagne), 292 Guineos con Crema De Coco (Bananas with Coconut Cream), 292 Guineos con Licor (Spirited Bananas), 290 Peras al Horno (Baked Pears), 296 Quesillo, 293 Quesillo Blanco, 294 Tembleque (Coconut Custard), 286 Domplines, 29 Doña Alma’s Muslo de Ternera (Mrs. Alma’s Veal Shanks), 186 dressing. See stuffing dry beans and peas, 240 Arroz con Habichuelas (Rice and Beans), 222 Arroz con Gandules (Rice with Pigeon Peas), 224 Arroz con Gandules y Carne de Cerdo (Rice with Pigeon Peas and Pork), 238 Asopao de Gandules con Arroz (Pigeon Peas with Rice Soup), 51 Basic Bean Recipe, 241 Biftec con Garbanzos (Beefsteak with Chickpeas), 153 Caldo Gallego (Galician Style Broth), 43 Ensalada de Atún y Habichuelas Blancas (Tuna and White Bean Salad), 71 Ensalada de Habichuelas (Bean Salad), 65 Frijoles Negros (Black Bean Soup), 53 Gandules Frescos Guisados (Stewed Fresh Pigeon Peas), 246

Habichuelas Blancas con Calabaza (White Beans Cooked with Pumpkin), 243 Lentejas Frescas con Chorizo (Lentils with Sausage), 245 Patitas de Cerdo con Garbanzos (Pigs Feet with Chickpeas), 196 Pato con Habichuelas Blancas (Duck with White Beans), 145 Sopa de Lentejas (Lentil Soup), 45 Duck with White Beans (Pato con Habichuelas Blancas), 145 Dulce de Lechose (Papaya Preserve), 291 Dumplings (Doplines), 29

E Eggnog for One, 304 eggplant Bacalao y Berenjena en Caserola (Codfish-Eggplant Casserole), 101 Berenjena (Eggplant), 265 Berenjena Frita (Fried Eggplant Slices), 266 Berenjena Rellenada (Stuffed Eggplant), 268 eggs, 248 Arroz con Huevos (Eggs and Rice), 251 Bacalao con Huevos (Codfish with Eggs), 100 Huevos Fritos (Fried Eggs), 250 Huevos al Horno (Baked Eggs), 252 Huevos Hervidos (Boiled Eggs), 249 Huevos Rellenos a la Sevilla (Stuffed Eggs Seville Style), 253 Huevos Revueltos (Scrambled Eggs), 249 Huevos Revueltos con Berro (Scrambled Eggs with Watercress), 252 Huevos Revueltos con Hongo (Scrambled Eggs with Mushrooms), 250 Huevos Revueltos con Salmon (Scrambled Eggs with Salmon), 251 Tortilla Española (Spanish Omelet), 254 Tortilla de Espinaca (Spinach Omelet), 255 Tortilla de Jamón Y Queso (Ham and Cheese Omelet), 257 Tortilla de Papas (Potato Omelet), 256 Uncle Phillip’s Egg Mold, 258 El Presidente (cocktail), 305 Empanadas de Yuca (Cassava Meat Pie), 37 Empanadillas (Stuffed Meat Pies), 36 Ensalada de Aguacate y Brocoli (Avocado-Broccoli Salad), 69 Ensalada de Aguacate y Hongo (Avocado-Mushroom Salad), 67 Ensalada de Aguacate y Jueyes (Avocado-Crabmeat Salad), 68 Ensalada de Atún (Tuna Fish Salad), 69 Ensalada de Atún y Habichuelas Blancas (Tuna and White Bean Salad), 71 Ensalada de Atún, Pimiento y Cebolla (Tuna, Pepper and Onion Salad), 70 Ensalada de Brocoli (Broccoli Salad), 65

Ensalada de Carrucho (Conch Salad), 78 Ensalada de Cebolla (Onion Salad), 64 Ensalada de Espinaca y Cebolla (Spinach and Red Onion Salad), 60 Ensalada de Fruta (Fruit Salad), 294 Ensalada de Fruta al Gusto (Fruit Salad with Honey-Lime Pressing), 295 Ensalada de Habichuelas (Bean Salad), 66 Ensalada de Hongo y Aceitunas (Mushrooms and Olives), 70 Ensalada de Lechuga (Escarole Salad), 59 Ensalada de Macarrones (Macaroni Salad), 73 Ensalada de Macarrones y Atún (Macaroni-Tuna Salad), 72 Ensalada de Maestro (Chef’s Salad), 74 Ensalada de Papas (Potato Salad), 75 Ensalada de Papas con Cebolla (Potato and Onion Salad), 75 Ensalada de Papas al Horno (Roasted Potato Salad), 76 Ensalada de Pepinillo (Cucumber Salad), 63 Ensalada de Pulpo (Octopus Salad), 77 Ensalada de Repollo (Cole Slaw), 73 Ensalada de Tomate (Tomato Salad), 60 Ensalada de Tomate y Cebolla (Tomato and Onion Salad), 61 Ensalada de Tomate y Chayota (Tomato–Chayote Salad), 62 Ensalada de Tomate y Pimiento ((Hot Tomato–Green Pepper Salad), 61 Ensalada de Tomate, Queso y Cebolla (Tomato, Cheese and Onion Salad), 62 Espinaca en Crema (Creamed Spinach), 269

F Fettuccine con Salsa de Atún (Fettuccine with Tuna Sauce), 104 Filete de Pescado Empanado (Breaded Fish Fillets), 87 Filete de Pescado al Horno (Baked Fish Fillets), 85 Fireman’s Sour, 306 fish. See also seafood Arroz con Bacalao (Rice with Codfish), 228 Bacalao y Berenjena en Caserola (Codfish-Eggplant Casserole), 101 Bacalao Guisado (Stewed Codfish), 100 Bacalao con Huevos (Codfish with Eggs), 100 Bacalao con Papas en Caserola (Codfish-Potato Casserole), 101 Bacalao con Pimientos (Codfish with Peppers), 103 Baclaitos Fritos (codfish fritters), 23 Chillo En Fricasé (Red Snapper Fricassee), 83 Ensalada de Atún (Tuna Fish Salad), 69 Ensalada de Atún y Habichuelas Blancas (Tuna and White Bean Salad), 71 Ensalada de Atún, Pimiento y Cebolla (Tuna, Pepper and Onion Salad), 70 Ensalada de Macarrones y Atún (Macaroni-Tuna Salad), 72

Fettuccine con Salsa de Atún (Fettuccine with Tuna Sauce), 104 Filete de Pescado Empanado (Breaded Fish Fillets), 87 Filete de Pescado al Horno (Baked Fish Fillets), 85 Huevos Revueltos con Salmon (Scrambled Eggs with Salmon), 251 Pescado Enceboyapo (Fish Cooked with Onions), 90 Pescado en Escabeche (Pickled Fish), 92 Pescado Herbido (Poached Whole Fish), 94 Pescado Frito (Deep Fried Fish), 93 Pescado Frito con Limón (Fried Fish with Lemon), 98 Pescado Relleno con Hongo (Fish with Mushroom Stuffing), 96 Pescado Relleno con Ostiones (Oyster Stuffed Fish), 97 Pescado con Tomate y Cilantro (Fish Steaks with Tomato and Cilantro), 82 Pescado con Vegetales (Fish with Vegetables), 84 Pez a la Bilbaina (Fish Bilbaina–Style), 89 Pez de Espada Con Salsa de Limón (Swordfish Steaks in Lemon Sauce), 86 Piscado al Horno (Oven Baked Fish), 83 Salmón Empanado (Breaded Salmon Steak), 91 Sopa de Pescado (Fish Soup), 55 Fish House Rum Punch, 315 Flán de Calabaza (Pumpkin Flan), 289 Flán de Tio Carlos (Uncle Carlos’ Flan), 288 Fricasé Pe Cabro (Goat Meat Fricassée), 215 Frijoles Negros (Black Bean Soup), 53 fritters Baclaitos Fritos, 23 Frituras de Maíz, 25 Frituras de Yautía, 24 Frituras de Maíz, 25 Frituras de Yautía, 24 Frozen Daiquiri, 303 fruit. See also individual fruits by name Ensalada de Fruta (Fruit Salad), 294 Ensalada de Fruta al Gusto (Fruit Salad with Honey-Lime Pressing), 295 Frutas con Champaña (Fruit with Champagne), 292 Frutas con Champaña (Fruit with Champagne), 292 frying, 22–23

G Gallina al Horno (Roast Cornish Hens), 140 Gandinga, 200 Gandules Frescos Guisados (Stewed Fresh Pigeon Peas), 246 garlic

Ajo al Horno (Roasted Garlic), 282 Brocoli con Ajo (Broccoli with Garlic), 271 Pan de Ajo (Garlic Bread), 40 Gazpacho, 48 goat Cabro Borracho (Drunken Goat), 213 Fricasé Pe Cabro (Goat Meat Fricassée), 215 Grasshopper (cocktail), 306 green beans Carne de Pote con Habichuelas Tiernas (Corned Beef with Green Beans), 157 Caserola de Macarrones y Carne de Res (Macaroni and Beef Casserole), 175 Chuletas Guisadas (Stewed Pork Chops), 194 Ensalada de Habichuelas (Bean Salad), 66 Green Rice (Arroz Verde), 229 Grenadine Highball, 322 ground beef Albóndigas Guisadas en Salsa (Meatballs Cooked in Sauce), 163 Arroz con Carne Molida (Rice with Ground Beef), 234 Butifarrón (Meat Loaf), 162 Caserola de Macarrones y Carne de Res (Macaroni and Beef Casserole), 175 Empanadillas (Stuffed Meat Pies), 36 Hamburgesa Criollo (Creole Burgers), 168 Pastelón de Carne Peres (Layered Meat Pie), 156 Picadillo (Ground Meat Stew), 149 Piñon (Beef/Plantain Casserole), 153 Rellenos de Harina de Maíz (Stuffed Cornmeal Balls), 35 Guanimes (cornmeal sticks), 34 Guinea Guisada (Stewed Guinea Hen), 139 Guineitos Niños (Finger Bananas), 39 Guineos con Crema De Coco (Bananas with Coconut Cream), 292 Guineos con Licor (Spirited Bananas), 290 Guineos y Papas en Escabeche (Marinated Green Bananas and Potatoes), 264

H–I Habaneros (cocktail), 306 Habichuelas Blancas con Calabaza (White Beans Cooked with Pumpkin), 243 ham Caldo Gallego (Galician Style Broth), 43 Collard Greens, 281 Ensalada de Maestro (Chefs Salad), 74 Jamón al Horno (Roast Ham), 199 Tortilla de Jamón Y Queso (Ham and Cheese Omelet), 257

Hamburgesa Criollo (Creole Burgers), 168 Higado de Pollo con Vino (Chicken Livers with Wine), 135 Higado en Salsa (Chicken Livers in Sauce), 136 Holiday Rum Punch, 316 Homemade Eggnog, 304 Hot Buttered Rum, 306 Hot Toddy, 307 Huevos Fritos (Fried Eggs), 250 Huevos al Horno (Baked Eggs), 252 Huevos Hervidos (Boiled Eggs), 249 Huevos Rellenos a la Sevilla (Stuffed Eggs Seville Style), 253 Huevos Revueltos (Scrambled Eggs), 249 Huevos Revueltos con Berro (Scrambled Eggs with Watercress), 252 Huevos Revueltos con Hongo (Scrambled Eggs with Mushrooms), 250 Huevos Revueltos con Salmon (Scrambled Eggs with Salmon), 251

J Jamón al Horno (Roast Ham), 199 Jueyes Criollo (Stewed Crabmeat), 109 Jueyes Herbidos (Boiled Crabs), 106 Jueyes Salmorejo (Crabmeat Salmorejo Style), 110 Jugo de Guanábana (soursop juice), 323 Jugo de Tamarindo, 324 Junturas de Cerdo Guisadas (Stewed Pigs Knuckles), 197

K Kidney Stew (Riñónes Guisados), 171

L lamb Caldo de Cornero (Lamb Stew), 210 Chuletas de Cornero a la Parrilla (Broiled Lamb Chops), 207 Corazones con Karina (Braised Hearts), 173 Cornero al Otro Día (Leftover Lamb), 212 Cornero Relleno (Stuffed Lamb), 211 Muslo Cornero a la Caribe (Lamb Shanks Caribbean Style), 208 Pata de Cornero al Horno (Roast Leg of Lamb), 209 Langosta Hervida (Boiled Lobster), 111 Langosta a la Parrilla (Broiled Lobster), 112 Langosta al Vapor (Steamed Lobster), 112 legumes. See dry beans and peas

Lengua Guisada (Stewed Tongue), 170 Lentejas Frescas con Chorizo (Lentils with Sausage), 245 lentils Lentejas Frescas con Chorizo (Lentils with Sausage), 245 Sopa de Lentejas (Lentil Soup), 45 lettuce Ensalada de Carrucho (Conch Salad), 78 Ensalada de Cebolla (Onion Salad), 64 Ensalada de Hongo y Aceitunas (Mushrooms and Olives), 70 Ensalada de Lechuga (Escarole Salad), 59 Ensalada de Maestro (Chef’s Salad), 74 Gazpacho de Aguacate (Avocado Gazpacho Salad), 67 lobster Langosta Hervida (Boiled Lobster), 111 Langosta a la Parrilla (Broiled Lobster), 112 Langosta al Vapor (Steamed Lobster), 112 London Broil (Biftec al Horno), 151

M Macaroni Macaroni and Beef Casserole (Caserola de Macarrones y Carne de Res), 175 Macaroni Salad (Ensalada de Macarrones), 73 Macaroni-Tuna Salad (Ensalada de Macarrones y Atún), 72 Mai-Tai, 307 Mariposa (cocktail), 307 Marqueta, 13–15 Masitas de Cerdo (Pork Bits), 202 Maví, 322 meatballs Albóndigas Guisadas en Salsa (Meatballs Cooked in Sauce), 163 Albóndigas de Ternera (Veal Meatballs), 187 Meat Loaf (Butifarrón), 162 Mejillones Criollo (Mussels Creole Style), 117 Millionaire Cocktail, 307 Mint Crush (cocktail), 308 Mofongo (Plantains and Pork Crackling), 33 Mondongo, 50 Monkey Wrench (cocktail), 308 Morro (cocktail), 308 Mother’s pot roast, 158 Mother’s white rice, 220 Mrs. Alma’s Veal Shanks (Doña Alma’s Muslo de Ternera), 186

mushrooms Arroz con Hongo (Mushroom Rice), 227 Carne de Cerdo con Hongo (Pork with Mushrooms), 198 Ensalada de Aguacate y Hongo (Avocado-Mushroom Salad), 67 Ensalada de Hongo y Aceitunas (Mushrooms and Olives), 70 Huevos Revueltos con Hongo (Scrambled Eggs with Mushrooms), 250 Pescado Relleno con Hongo (Fish with Mushroom Stuffing), 96 Pimientos y Hongo (Peppers and Mushrooms), 273 Muslo Cornero a la Caribe (Lamb Shanks Caribbean Style), 208 Mussels Creole Style (Mejillones Criollo Style), 117

N National Cocktail, 308 Navy Grog, 308 Nuclear Blast (cocktail), 309 Nuyorican cooking, properties of, 7–11 palate, 16–17

O octopus Ensalada de Pulpo (Octopus Salad), 77 Pulpo Guisado (Stewed Octopus), 122 oil, 22 onions Arroz con Cebolla (Onion Rice), 225 Camarones con Cebolla (Shrimp with Onion), 115 Cebollas Rellenas (Stuffed Onions), 280 Ensalada de Atún, Pimiento y Cebolla (Tuna, Pepper and Onion Salad), 70 Ensalada de Cebolla (Onion Salad), 64 Ensalada de Espinaca y Cebolla (Spinach and Red Onion Salad), 60 Ensalada de Papas con Cebolla (Potato and Onion Salad), 75 Ensalada de Tomate y Cebolla (Tomato and Onion Salad), 61 Ensalada de Tomate, Queso y Cebolla (Tomato, Cheese and Onion Salad), 62 Papas con Cebolla (Potatoes and Onion), 275 Pescado Enceboyapo (Fish Cooked with Onions), 90 Orchata de Ajonjolí (sesame seed drink), 322 Orchata de Coco (coconut juice drink), 322 Oven Baked Fish (Piscado al Horno), 83 oven method white rice, 221

P

Paella, 235 Pan de Ajo (Garlic Bread), 40 Papa al Horno (Baked Potato), 274 papas. See potatoes Papas con Cebolla (Potatoes and Onion), 275 Papas Guisadas (Stewed Potatoes), 276 Papas con Perejil (Parsleyed Potatoes), 275 Papas y Pitipuas (Potatoes and Green Peas), 277 Papas Rellenas (stuffed potato balls), 32 Papaya Preserve (Dulce de Lechose), 291 Party Rum Punch, 316 pasta Caserola de Macarrones y Carne de Res (Macaroni and Beef Casserole), 175 Ensalada de Macarrones (Macaroni Salad), 73 Ensalada de Macarrones y Atún (Macaroni-Tuna Salad), 72 Fettuccine con Salsa de Atún (Fettuccine with Tuna Sauce), 104 Sopa de Pollo con Fideos (Chicken Noodle Soup), 49 Pastelles, 260 Pastelón de Carne Peres (Layered Meat Pie), 156 Pata de Cornero al Horno (Roast Leg of Lamb), 209 Patitas de Cerdo con Garbanzos (Pigs Feet with Chickpeas), 196 Pato con Habichuelas Blancas (Duck with White Beans), 145 Pavo en Vino de Jerez (Turkey Cooked in Sherry), 144 Pavo Relleno a la Criolla (Stuffed Roast Turkey), 141 Peach Daiquiri, 303 pears, baked (Peras al Horno) peas (green) Papas y Pitipuas (Potatoes and Green Peas), 277 Pitipuas Guisadas con Chorizo (Stewed Green Peas with Sausage), 244 peppers Arroz con Pimiento (Pepper Rice), 226 Bacalao con Pimientos (Codfish with Peppers), 103 Ensalada de Atún, Pimiento y Cebolla (Tuna, Pepper and Onion Salad), 70 Ensalada de Tomate y Pimiento (Hot Tomato–Green Pepper Salad), 61 Pimientos y Hongo (Peppers and Mushrooms), 273 Pimientos Rellenos (Stuffed Peppers), 273 Pimientos Rojo y Verde (Red and Green Peppers), 272 Peras al Horno (Baked Pears), 296 Pernil al Horno (Roast Pork Shoulder), 191 Pernil con Vegetales (Pork Tenderloin with Vegetables), 195 Pescado Enceboyapo (Fish Cooked with Onions), 90 Pescado en Escabeche (Pickled Fish), 92

Pescado Frito (Deep Fried Fish), 93 Pescado Frito con Limón (Fried Fish with Lemon), 98 Pescado Herbido (Poached Whole Fish), 94 Pescado Relleno con Hongo (Fish with Mushroom Stuffing), 96 Pescado Relleno con Ostiones (Oyster Stuffed Fish), 97 Pescado con Tomate y Cilantro (Fish Steaks with Tomato and Cilantro), 82 Pescado con Vegetales (Fish with Vegetables), 84 Pez a la Bilbaina (Fish Bilbaina–Style), 89 Pez de Espada Con Salsa de Limón (Swordfish Steaks in Lemon Sauce), 86 Picadillo (Ground Meat Stew), 149 pigeon peas Arroz con Gandules (Rice with Pigeon Peas), 224 Arroz con Gandules y Carne de Cerdo (Rice with Pigeon Peas and Pork), 238 Asopao de Gandules con Arroz (Pigeon Peas with Rice Soup), 51 Gandules Frescos Guisados (Stewed Fresh Pigeon Peas), 246 Pigs Feet with Chickpeas (Patitas de Cerdo con Garbanzos), 196 Pimientos y Hongo (Peppers and Mushrooms), 273 Pimientos Rellenos (Stuffed Peppers), 273 Pimientos Rojo y Verde (Red and Green Peppers), 272 Piña Colada, 309 Pineapple Daiquiri, 304 Piñon (Beef/Plantain Casserole), 153 Piscado al Horno (Oven Baked Fish), 83 plantains Mofongo (Plantains and Pork Crackling), 33 Pastelón de Carne Peres (Layered Meat Pie), 156 Piñon (Beef/Plantain Casserole), 153 Platanos Amarillos (sweet ripe plantains), 27 Rellenos de Amarillos (stuffed ripe plantains), 28 Tostones (fried green plantains), 26 Planters Punch No.1, 309 Planters Punch No. 2, 309 Platanos Amarillos, 27 pollo (chicken). See chicken Pollo Asado a la Parrilla (Broiled Chicken), 130 Pollo en Capa (Layered Chicken), 137 Pollo Empanao (Breaded Chicken), 132 Pollo en Fricasé (Chicken Fricassée), 134 Pollo al Gallego (Galician Style Chicken), 138 Pollo Frito (Fried Chicken), 128 Pollo Guisapo (Stewed Chicken), 124 Pollo al Horno (Roast Chicken), 125

Pollo con Polvo de Curry (Curried Chicken), 133 pork. See also chorizo; ham; sausage Arroz con Gandules y Carne de Cerdo (Rice with Pigeon Peas and Pork), 238 Carne de Cerdo con Hongo (Pork with Mushrooms), 198 Carne de Cerdo con Papas (Pork with Potatoes), 201 Carne de Cerdo al Pinchón (Pork Shishkebob), 202 Chuletas Empanadas (Breaded Pork Chops), 192 Chuletas Guisadas (Stewed Pork Chops), 194 Chuletas Rellenas (Stuffed Pork Chops), 193 Costillas de Cerdo al Horno (Barbecued Spareribs), 204 Empanadas de Yuca (Cassava Meat Pie), 37 Gandinga, 200 Junturas de Cerdo Guisadas (Stewed Pigs Knuckles), 197 Masitas de Cerdo (Pork Bits), 202 Pastelles, 260 Patitas de Cerdo con Garbanzos (Pigs Feet with Chickpeas), 196 Pernil al Horno (Roast Pork Shoulder), 191 Pernil con Vegetales (Pork Tenderloin with Vegetables), 195 Sancocho, 46 potatoes Bacalao con Papas en Caserola (Codfish-Potato Casserole), 101 Caldo Gallego (Galician Style Broth), 43 Carne de Cerdo con Papas (Pork with Potatoes), 201 Carne con Tomate y Papas (Beef with Tomatoes and Potatoes), 167 Ensalada de Papas (Potato Salad), 75 Ensalada de Papas con Cebolla (Potato and Onion Salad), 75 Ensalada de Papas al Horno (Roasted Potato Salad), 76 Guineos y Papas en Escabeche (Marinated Green Bananas and Potatoes), 264 Papa al Horno (Baked Potato), 274 Papas con Cebolla (Potatoes and Onion), 275 Papas Guisadas (Stewed Potatoes), 276 Papas con Perejil (Parsleyed Potatoes), 275 Papas y Pitipuas (Potatoes and Green Peas), 277 Papas Rellenas (stuffed potato balls), 32 Pitipuas Guisadas con Chorizo (Stewed Green Peas with Sausage), 244 Tortilla de Papas (Potato Omelet), 256 Pot Roast (Carne Mechada), 157 Aunt Fanny’s, 159 Mother’s, 158 poultry. See chicken; duck; quail; turkey Prepared Eggnog, 305 puddings

Arroz con Dulce (Rice Pudding), 284 Budín (Bread Pudding), 287 Flán de Calabaza (Pumpkin Flan), 289 Flán de Tio Carlos (Uncle Carlos’ Flan), 288 Quesillo, 293 Quesillo Blanco, 294 Tembleque (Coconut Custard), 286 Puerto Rican cooking, properties of, 7–11 kitchen, 18–19 Puerto Rico, about, 11–15 Pulpo Guisado (Stewed Octopus), 122 pumpkin Caldo de Cornero (Lamb Stew), 210 Flán de Calabaza (Pumpkin Flan), 289 Gandules Frescos Guisados (Stewed Fresh Pigeon Peas), 246 Habichuelas Blancas con Calabaza (White Beans Cooked with Pumpkin), 243 Junturas de Cerdo Guisadas (Stewed Pigs Knuckles), 197 Mondongo, 50 Pastelles, 260 Pitipuas Guisadas con Chorizo (Stewed Green Peas with Sausage), 244 Sancocho, 46 Sopa de Los Lunes (Morning After Stew), 56

Q Quail, Pickled, 146 Quesillo, 293 Quesillo Blanco, 294

R rabbit Conejo en Fricasé (Rabbit Fricassée), 175 Conejos Frito (Fried Rabbit), 174 Red Snapper Fricassee (Chillo En Fricasé), 83 Refresco de Parcha (passion fruit beverage), 323 Refresco de Raíces (root bark beverage), 324 Relleno Para Pavo (Turkey Stuffing), 143 Rellenos de Amarillos, 28 Rellenos de Harina de Maíz, 35 rice, 218 Arroz Amarillo (Yellow Rice), 223 Arroz con Bacalao (Rice with Codfish), 228

Arroz Blanco (White Rice), 219 Arroz con Calamares (Rice with Squid), 230 Arroz con Carne Molida (Rice with Ground Beef), 234 Arroz con Cebolla (Onion Rice), 225 Arroz con Chorizo (Rice and Sausage), 228 Arroz con Dulce (Rice Pudding), 284 Arroz con Gandules (Rice with Pigeon Peas), 224 Arroz con Gandules y Carne de Cerdo (Rice with Pigeon Peas and Pork), 238 Arroz con Habichuelas (Rice and Beans), 222 Arroz con Hongo (Mushroom Rice), 227 Arroz con Huevos (Eggs and Rice), 251 Arroz con Jueyes (Rice with Crabmeat), 231 Arroz de Persa (Persian Rice), 234 Arroz con Pimiento (Pepper Rice), 226 Arroz con Pollo (Rice with Chicken), 232 Arroz Con Polvo de Curry (Curried Rice), 226 Arroz Verde (Green Rice), 229 Asopao de Pollo (Chicken Stew), 130 Asopao de Gandules con Arroz (Pigeon Peas with Rice Soup), 51 Paella, 235 Riñónes Guisados (Kidney Stew), 171 Riñón de Ternera (Veal Kidneys), 182 Rivera Family Party Punch, 317 Ropa Vieja (Shredded Beef Stew), 169 rum, about 298 Rum Alexander, 310 Rum Buck, 310 Rum Bloody Mary, 310 Rum and Cider, 310 Rum Cobbler (cocktail), 310 Rum and Cola, 311 Rum Collins, 311 Rum Cooler, 311 Rum Cooler for One, 311 Rum Daisy, 312 Rum Fizz, 312 Rum Fruit Punch, 312 Rum Gimlet, 312 Rum Highball, 312 Rum and Hot Chocolate, 312 Rum Manhattan, 313 Rum Margarita, 313

Rum Martini, 313 Rum Old Fashioned, 313 Rum Punch No. 2, 314 Rum Punch No. 3, 314 Rum Ricky, 317 Rum Sangaree, 317 Rum Sour, 317 Rum Stinger, 318 Rum Swizzle, 318 Rum and Tonic, 318

S salads Ensalada de Aguacate y Brocoli (Avocado-Broccoli Salad), 69 Ensalada de Aguacate y Hongo (Avocado-Mushroom Salad), 67 Ensalada de Aguacate y Jueyes (Avocado-Crabmeat Salad), 68 Ensalada de Atún (Tuna Fish Salad), 69 Ensalada de Atún y Habichuelas Blancas (Tuna and White Bean Salad), 71 Ensalada de Atún, Pimiento y Cebolla (Tuna, Pepper and Onion Salad), 70 Ensalada de Brocoli (Broccoli Salad), 65 Ensalada de Carrucho (Conch Salad), 78 Ensalada de Cebolla (Onion Salad), 64 Ensalada de Espinaca y Cebolla (Spinach and Red Onion Salad), 60 Ensalada de Fruta (Fruit Salad), 294 Ensalada de Fruta al Gusto (Fruit Salad with Honey-Lime Pressing), 295 Ensalada de Habichuelas (Bean Salad), 66 Ensalada de Hongo y Aceitunas (Mushrooms and Olives), 70 Ensalada de Lechuga (Escarole Salad), 59 Ensalada de Macarrones (Macaroni Salad), 73 Ensalada de Macarrones y Atún (Macaroni-Tuna Salad), 72 Ensalada de Maestro (Chef’s Salad), 74 Ensalada de Papas (Potato Salad), 75 Ensalada de Papas con Cebolla (Potato and Onion Salad), 75 Ensalada de Papas al Horno (Roasted Potato Salad), 76 Ensalada de Pepinillo (Cucumber Salad), 63 Ensalada de Pulpo (Octopus Salad), 77 Ensalada de Repollo (Cole Slaw), 73 Ensalada de Tomate (Tomato Salad), 60 Ensalada de Tomate y Cebolla (Tomato and Onion Salad), 61 Ensalada de Tomate y Chayota (Tomato–Chayote Salad), 62 Ensalada de Tomate y Pimiento (Hot Tomato–Green Pepper Salad), 61 Ensalada de Tomate, Queso y Cebolla (Tomato, Cheese and Onion Salad), 62

Gazpacho de Aguacate (Avocado Gazpacho Salad), 67 Salmón Empanado (Breaded Salmon Steak), 91 salt, a word on, 19–20 Sancocho, 46 sauce, white, 253 sausage Arroz con Chorizo (Rice and Sausage), 228 Lentejas Frescas con Chorizo (Lentils with Sausage), 245 Paella, 235 Pitipuas Guisadas con Chorizo (Stewed Green Peas with Sausage), 244 Sopa de Lentejas, 45 Scorpion cocktail, 319 seafood. See conch; crab; lobster; mussels; octopus; shrimp; squid Paella, 235 sesame seed drink (Orchata de Ajonjolí), 322 Shanghai cocktail, 318 side dishes. See also vegetables Arroz con Cebolla (Onion Rice), 225 Arroz con Hongo (Mushroom Rice), 227 Arroz con Pimiento (Pepper Rice), 226 Arroz de Persa (Persian Rice), 234 Arroz Con Polvo de Curry (Curried Rice), 226 Arroz Verde (Green Rice), 229 Singapore Sling (cocktail), 318 sofrito defined, 8, 329 recipe, 9 Sopa de Espinaca, 53 Sopa de Lentejas, 45 Sopa de los Lunes, 56 Sopa de Pescado, 55 Sopa de Pollo con Fideos, 49 soups and stews Asopao de Gandules con Arroz (Pigeon Peas with Rice Soup), 51 Asopao de Pollo (Chicken Stew), 130 Caldo de Cornero (Lamb Stew), 210 Caldo Gallego (Galician Style Broth), 43 Caldo de Pollo (Chicken Stock), 44 Carne Guisada (Beef Stew), 154 Frijoles Negros (Black Bean Soup), 53 Gazpacho, 48 Mondongo, 50

Picadillo (Ground Meat Stew), 149 Riñónes Guisados (Kidney Stew), 171 Sancocho, 46 Ropa Vieja (Shredded Beef Stew), 169 Sopa de Espinaca (Spinach Soup), 53 Sopa de Lentejas (Lentil Soup), 45 Sopa de los Lunes (Morning After Stew), 56 Sopa de Pescado (Fish Soup), 55 Sopa de Pollo con Fideos (Chicken Noodle Soup), 49 Spareribs, Barbecued (Costillas de Cerdo al Horno), 204 spices, essential, 8 spinach Ensalada de Espinaca y Cebolla (Spinach and Red Onion Salad), 60 Espinaca en Crema (Creamed Spinach), 269 Sopa de Espinaca (Spinach Soup), 53 Tortilla de Espinaca (Spinach Omelet), 255 squid, 119 Arroz con Calamares (Rice with Squid), 230 Calamares Guisado (Stewed Squid), 120 Calamares Relleno (Stuffed Squid), 121 steak. See beef; veal Strawberry Daiquiri, 304 Stuffed Meat Pies (Empanadillas), 36 stuffing a beefsteak, 161 for turkey, 143 substitutions, 8, 10

T Tembleque (Coconut Custard), 286 Ternera en Fricase (Veal Fricassée), 181 Ternera al Horno (Veal Roast), 183 Ternera con Polvo de Curry (Curried Veal), 185 Tom and Jerry (modern), 319 Tom and Jerry (traditional), 319 Tomates a la Parrilla (Grilled Tomatoes), 278 Tomates Rellenos (Stuffed Tomatoes), 279 tomatoes Carne con Tomate y Papas (Beef with Tomatoes and Potatoes), 167 Ensalada de Tomate (Tomato Salad), 60 Ensalada de Tomate y Cebolla (Tomato and Onion Salad), 61 Ensalada de Tomate y Chayota (Tomato–Chayote Salad), 62

Ensalada de Tomate y Pimiento ((Hot Tomato–Green Pepper Salad), 61 Ensalada de Tomate, Queso y Cebolla (Tomato, Cheese and Onion Salad), 62 Gazpacho, 48 Pescado con Tomate y Cilantro (Fish Steaks with Tomato and Cilantro), 82 Tomates a la Parrilla (Grilled Tomatoes), 278 Tomates Rellenos (Stuffed Tomatoes), 279 Torridora (cocktail), 320 Tortilla Española (Spanish Omelet), 254 Tortilla de Espinaca (Spinach Omelet), 255 Tortilla de Jamón Y Queso (Ham and Cheese Omelet), 257 Tortilla de Papas (Potato Omelet), 256 Tostones, 26 Trinidad Cocktail, 320 tripe Mondongo, 50 turkey Pavo Relleno a la Criolla (Stuffed Roast Turkey), 141 Pavo en Vino de Jerez (Turkey Cooked in Sherry), 144 Relleno Para Pavo (Turkey Stuffing), 143 turnip greens Caldo Gallego (Galician Style Broth), 43 turnips Caldo Gallego (Galician Style Broth), 43

U Uncle Carlos’ Flan (Flán de Tio Carlos), 288 Uncle Phillip’s Egg Mold, 258

V veal, 178 Albóndigas de Ternera (Veal Meatballs), 187 Biftec de Ternera (Veal Steaks), 184 Chuletas de Ternera a la Criolla (Veal Chops Creole Style), 179 Chuletas de Ternera a la Jardinera (Veal Chops a la Jardinera), 180 Doña Alma’s Muslo de Ternera (Mrs. Alma’s Veal Shanks), 186 Riñón de Ternera (Veal Kidneys), 182 Ternera en Fricase (Veal Fricassée), 181 Ternera al Horno (Veal Roast), 183 Ternera con Polvo de Curry (Curried Veal), 185 vegetables. See also individual listings Bianda (Root Plants), 263 Pastelles, 260

Pernil con Vegetales (Pork Tenderloin with Vegetables), 195 Pescado con Vegetales (Fish with Vegetables), 84 Virgin Banana Daiquiri, 325 Virgin Fizz, 325 Virgin Peach Daiquiri, 325 Virgin Pineapple Daiquiri, 325 Virgin Ricky, 325 Virgin Strawberry Daiquiri, 325

W–X watercress, scrambled eggs with (Scrambled Eggs with Watercress), 252 White Beans Cooked with Pumpkin (Habichuelas Blancas con Calabaza), 243 white sauce, 253 wine. See individual recipes for proper pairing

Y Yautía Fritters (Frituras de Yautía), 24 yuca Alcapurrias de Yuca (Stuffed Cassava), 31 Empanadas de Yuca (Cassava Meat Pie), 37 Sancocho, 46

Z Zanahorias Doradas (Golden Carrots), 270 Zombie (cocktail), 320