PS Magazine Issue 104 1961 Series [104 ed.]

Table of contents :
psm104_cover1
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psm104_cover2_page001
psm104_page001
psm104_page002
psm104_page002_page003
psm104_page003
psm104_page004
psm104_page005
psm104_page006
psm104_page007
psm104_page008
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psm104_page020
psm104_page020_page021
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psm104_page022_page023
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psm104_page024_page025
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Citation preview

A'E """WI '"

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combat readiness 0/ troops bears a distinct relationship to thecombal readiness 0/ Ihe equipment in which and with which they fight.

Th", ability to maintain arms and equipment may :::el( 'he difference be~U1e.n defeat and survival. M

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Brushes are lifeline items in electrical equipment. Working around the clock, they have to hang in there and ride herd on slip rings and commutators that're spinning at a fantastic dip.

Without that solid, smooth brush contact, your equipment couldn't pull tail feathers from 'a pigeon. This is why you find inspection, cleaning, adjusting and replacing of brushes high on the list of Q services for generators, alternators and motors. In fact you don't even wait for scheduled services whenever sparking, chattering, or weak voltage output warns you there's trouble brewing at the brushes. Here're some common causes of brush trouble, and how you can keep 'em from dead lining your equipment:

WORN BRUSHES NEED REPlACING

~

·-:U:-n-·l-e-ss~th~e-T:::-M~ tells you different,

you replace brushes worn down to half their original length. Clean the holder and blowout dirt before putting in the new brush. Never use high air pressure for blowing our dirt-25 to 35 PSI is enough.

NEW BRUSHES NEED FITTING

New brushes are fitted to the commutator curve by sanding with a medium grade sandpaper. Place a strip of 00 grade sandpaper under the brush, with the rough side toward the brush. Then put light pressure on top of the brush with one hand, while pulling the sandpaper through in the direction that the commutator or slip ring turns. Repeat sanding in the same direction until

Brushes are lifeline items in electrical equipment. Working around the clock, they have to hang in there and ride herd on slip rings and commutators that're spinning at a fantastic clip.

the brush face 6ts the curve. Be sure to blowout all dirt and grit.

BRUSHES BIND IN HOLDERS Brushes need enough clearance in the holder to "give" as they ride the commutator. When brushes bind, you clean both brush and holder until the brush

Without that solid, smooth brush contact, your equipment couldn't pull tail feathers from a pigeon. This is why you find inspection, cleaning, adjusting and replacing of brushes high on the list of Q services for generators, alternators and motors. In fact you doo't even wait for scheduled services whenever sparking, chattering, or weak voltage output warns you there's trouble brewing at the brushes. Here're some common causes of brush trouble, and how you can keep 'em from dead lining your equipment:

WORN BRUSHES NEED REPlACING

~

NEW BRUSHES NEED FIniNG

New brushes are fitted to the commutator curve by sanding with a medium grade sandpaper. Place a strip of '-,'U;::n-·l-e-ss~~TM-- tells you different, 00 grade sandpaper under the brush, you replace brushes worn down to half with the rough side toward the brush. their original length. Clean the holder Then put light pressure on top of the and blowout dirt before putting in the brush with one hand, while pulling the new brush. Never use high air pres- sandpaper through in the direction that sure for blowing out dirt-25 to 35 the commutator or slip ring turns. RePSI is enough. peat sanding in the same direction until

Test all brushes, even those in hardto-reach places, to be sure each spring is tensed to match your TM requirement. STREAKED "SKIN" Use a spring scale hookup, and a piece A contact film, or "skin", is formed of paper placed between the brush and by brushes riding on the commutators the commutator. Check the tension on and slip rings. This "skin" smooths conthe scale when the paper can be freel y "tact and reduces wear on the brushes. moved, and adjust the tension until it Streaks in the "skin" indicate bare SpOts matches the amount required by the or high spotS, which can be leveled off TM. with a cleaning paddle. You cover the cleaning paddle with canvas or 00 sandpaper-never with emery paper-and press lightly a few seconds at a time to clear streaks.

the brush face fits the curve. Be sure to blowout all dirt and grit.

BRUSHES BIND IN HOLDERS Brushes need enough clearance in the holder to "give" as they ride the commutator. When brushes bind, you clean both brush and holder until the brush

Test aU brushes, even those in hardto-reach places, to be sure each spring is tensed to match your TM requirement. STREAKED "SKIN" Use a spring scale hookup, and a piece A contact film, or "skin", is formed of paper placed between the brush and by brushes riding on the commuca[Qrs the commutator. Check the tension on and slip rings. This "skin" smooths conthe scale when the paper can be freely 'tact and reduces wear on the brushes. moved, and adjust the tension umil it Streaks in the "skin" indicate bare spots matches the amount required by the or high spots, which can be leveled off TM. with a cleaning paddle. You cover the cleaning paddle with canvas or 00 sandpaper-never with emery paper-and press lighdy a few seconds at a time to clear streaks.

4S

OIL SMEARS

COPPER PICKING ON BRUSH FACE

Oil soaks into the brush, hardens it, and causes friction that curs up the surface "skin." Oil-hardened brushes have to be replaced. Then you dean the oil smear from the commutator or slip ring with the cleaning paddle, and check nearby bearings for excess oil, to prevent more trou'hie with smears.

When the brush picks up bits of copper from the commutator, it cuts through the contact "skin," Try rcfacing the brush with 00 sandpaper, and cleaning the commutator with a cleaning padd le. If copper still builds

FLAT BARS, HIGH BARS, HIGH MICA Some small roughness caused by commutator wear can be smoothed Out with. hand tools. But resurfacing, undercutting, and regrooving is better done by support shops with machine tools.

SHORT-WINDED GENERATORS Wheeze ... choke .. . gasp ... swoom ... crunch. That could be your lO-KW HoI-Gar generator (Model CE-105-AC/WK8) suffering from an air-locked fuel tank. Which leads directly to a collapsed tank, split seams, or a tank swollen Out of shape. The trouble comes from the standard fuel caps issued with this equipment. The fuel tanks just can't breathe right -even with the fording valve in the OPEN position. This sets up a vacuum . ',' choke ... sob .. . gasp ... and the fuel tanks cave in.

~~;:-'-::I

warms up from the sun, etc., the fuel and trapped air expand. Since the air can't get out, something has to giveand it's usually the tank. It starts swelling up. In either case, you 've got a rig on sick call. So, to air oue the situation, try this: Drill a 132-in hole in the finer capfrom the bottom. You don't drill all the way through the top or oueside of the cap-just through the inner parts. Then, start 'er up, let 'er run ... and let' er breathe.

46

Here's what

YOLI

want: Hose Assem-

bly, FSN 43 10-767-1633.

Like the man said when they wheeled him into the operating room: "Well, it won't be long now." And it won't be long before your hose woes are over with your missile capping compressors. Soon's your present stock of rubber· lined high pressure air hoses is used up, you can get a new, improved hose. It'll dry down to the right dew point in much less time, it'll last longer, and it's rated to handle up to 6,000 PSI.

With Daveys and Joys, you'll also need two Adapters, FSN 4730-5231350 (not needed on Joy 80HGC2-MSI and 80HGC3-MSI, or Clark Bros. Mod· els H06-4C and H06-5C). With Rixs, you'll need two Adapters,

FSN 4730-523-1353. And to connect two lengths of the new 25-ft hose, you'll need an Adapter,

FSN 4730-523-1351. Your suppoC[ unit will requisition 'em all direct from:

USA ENGINEER MAINTENANCE CENTER S1 STARLING STREET COLUMBUS, OHIO

HOLD IT ••• MISSILE-MAN! .......,.,..,...".,=-....,-.,.

you don't have any of these, get local purchase compressed air which is put up especially for breathing apparatus.

CJ(

WITH... monoxide detector kit tests air for carbon monoxide contamination only. 47

On your IHC miS and m20 tractors, there's one undercover job that can be a full-size pain every 50 operating hours. That is, unless you cut it down to a two-minute deal with a wellplaced drill hole. This undercover job is pulling the drain plug under the engine clutch, ac(o,ding to LO 5-2410-200-20-1 (23 Feb 60). If you don't drain the clutch housing like it says, you're asking for trouble.

full-size pain comes from taking off and putting back the crankcase guard extension every time you have crawl under your rig to pull the clutch drain plug. Now here's how you cut that pain to a two-minute deal. you pull the crankcase guard extension, scratch an "X" on the guard on a plumb line below the _ ~ ~ plug. Then drill that "X" with a Hig-in hole. You've got it made from now on. Every time "L" service calls for draining the clutch case, it's no sweat to spear the plug with a Yl-in drive on your IO-in extension tool. to

f3J

48

rn

BELT IT RIGHT!

On your IHC T01S and T020 tractors, there's one undercover job that can be a full-size pain every 50 operating hours. That is, unless you cut it down to a two-minute deal with a wellplaced drill hole. This undercover job is pulling the drain plug under the engine clutch, according to LO 5-2410-200-20-1 (23 Feb 60). If you don't drain the clutch housing like it says, you're asking for trouble.

r--------=:---=---,

When a TM spells. out somethingnot just once, but many times-it "behooves" a man to mind the message. Take the 5 CFM Le Roi piggyback compressor, f'riO-stance. TM 5-4310-204-15 keeps repeating

the word about checking.drive belt adjustment. And why is belt tension such a big deal?

1. Because slipping drive belts won't build 175

PSI.

full-size pain comes from taking off and putting back the crankcase guard extension every time you have to crawl under your rig to pull the clutch drain plug. Now here's how you cut that pain to a two-minute deal. you pull the crankcase guard extension, ~ scratch an "X" on the guard on a plumb line below the _ ~ plug. Then drill that "X" WIth a His-in hole. You've got it made from now on. Every tIme ttL" service calls for draining the clutch case, it's no sweat to spear the plug with a l/z-in drive on your lO-in extension tool.

en

48

-----==== 2. Because overtight drive belts put a bind an the crankshah of the 88. Briggs and Stratton engine that drives the compressor. With a bind on the crankshaft, you're lucky if it only stalls the engine at about 120 PSI. If you're not lucky, the crankshaft will bend and breaktaking the main bearing with it to the scrap pile.

It takes only seconds to thumb-test adjustment on chese V-belts. And it takes only minutes to loosen the four engine mounting bolts and adjust the tension so that it's not too loose or too tight. Make it JUSt enough to keep the belt from slipping on the pulleys. 49

BELT IT RIGHT!

r-------~,--....,.-_,

When a TM spells. out somethingnot just once. but many times-it "behooves" a mao to mind the message. Take the 5 CFM I.e Roi piggyback

compressor. f'rinsrance. TM 5·4310·204·15 keeps repeating the word about checking.drive belt adjustment. And why is belt tension such a big deal?

1. Because slipping drive bell> won't build lI5

I

Pst. ~~ 2. Because overtight drive belts put a bind on the crankshaft of the 8B. Briggs and StraHan engine that drives the compressor. With a bind on the crankshaft, you're lucky if it only stalls the engine at about 120 PSI, If you're not lucky, the crankshaft will bend and breaktoking the moin bearing with it to the scrap pile. It takes only seconds to thumb-test adjustment on these V-belts. And it rakes only minutes to loosen the four engine mounting bolts and adjust the tension so that it's not too loose or too tight. Make it JUSt enough to keep the belt from slipping on the pulleys. 49

LUBE WITH "L" AND "M" Dear Sgt Half-Mast, lVe've hit a mag in TM I-lH-23A-4-20P (Dec 60). On page 141, it lists Lube Oil, Gear, under FSN 9150-223-4130 (Mil-L6086A, Amend 1), while the lttbe chart in TM I-lH-23D-2 (May '59, Wlehgs.) says to use 6086 Grade IlL" or "M" for certaiu gears in our H23D's. Prins/anee, grade "M" is med in the tail rotor gear box and flL" in the control rotor cuffs. Looks like Otty .20P's should have two FSN's cited don't yOlt think?

One more thil1g I'd like to know is, how to get the stuff when the -20P's don't show it? Supply says we have to have it listed in the ·20P's.

Dear Sgt S. 1. W. , Yep, the ·20P's should give with four separate FSN's for the gear oil for your Raven. You'll find the stuff listed in SB 38-5-3, page 20. A further reference that'll get you more variety in carton sizes is SM 10-1-C4-1 (Sept '59), page 49. For LUBE OIL, GEARS, aircraft gears, Mil-L-6086, grade "L". (no symbol), FSN 9150-223-4116 (QMC) gets you a 5-gal drum; and FSN 9150-2659417 gets a 1-gal can. FSN 9150-223-4130 gets you a I-gal can of Grade "M" (symbol OGR), and FSN 9150-240-2235 brings a I-pint can of "M" when desired.

When oedccin' the stuff, be sure to include: the FSN ... natch, the Spec number, the container size, total quan· tiey in applicable unit of measure and other info that'll help identify the item . .. where used, etc. Sarge, if this doesn't get your lube until the -20P's are changed, then, "np-0_th_i_n_'_w_i_ll_,_ _-...,_

You say you just pul1ed a pre-flight on your G or H model Sioux (H-13)? And you did it so well that if it had been filmed it would go down in training as a classic example of on-the-ballness? Congratulations! But, just one more thing ... Take another look at the mounting on the AN / ARA-31 Homing Amenna. Make it a real dose look because there may be a fatigue crack that's mighty easy to miss unless you're looking for it. And while you're at it, check the welded brackets and coaxial cable entrance holes. Some of these mountings have cracked from in-flight vibration ... and you can bet your black book that some more will crack before they're all replaced. If even the smallest hairline shows up, get the amenna replaced. And keep an eagle eye on it all the time. Otherwise your big gas bird may end up with its mast in the sling .

• 51

PRE-OIUNG CAUTION __ _

Army aviation types do not intentionally ruin aircraft engines by running them without oil. But some do get careless about pre.oiling. You get the same effect either .way. Take the $25 ,000 Choctaw R182084A Recip, for example. The rules on pre-oiling are printed in black and white ... para 5-9 page 275 in TM I -lH-34-2 (Apr 60) _ Just as a re-

It's not likely a good Choctaw mechanic would mess up on the "when" part of this maincenance. Most of the sloppy trouble comes from not knowing all of the. .. HOW The -2 pre-oiling procedure seems simple enough to follow, but it pays to read it careful~like:

1. FiII.n oil cell•. 2. Take out the rear spark plugs. 3. RemoYe the Ikin pipe plug from the pre-oil fining-left side of oil pump. 4. Remoye the magnetic drain plug from the supercharger rear housing. S. Remove the mognetic droin plug from the front sump. 52

ENGINE

PRE-OIUNG CAUTION __ _

Army aviation types do not intentionally ruin aircraft engines by running them without oil. But some do get careless about pre.oiling. You get the same effect either .way. Take the $25 ,000 Choctaw R182084A Recip, for example. The rules on pre-oiling are printed in black and white ... para 5-9 page 275 in TM I-lH-34-2 (Apr 60) _ Just as a re-

on a you go on. more'n one same·size pipe plug in this area. Pull the wrong one and the rest of the opertion's wasted. Now you take Out the ~ ·in pipe plug fro m the other pre.oil fitting-in the housing forward of the oil system drain valve. This is the fitting you start with by connecting up the pre-oiler here. Then expel all the air from the pre-oiler and be sure the engine oil (MIL-L6082, grade 1100) is heated up between 100° to 175°F (or 38° to 79°C). Also, check the cockpit to see that the ignition switch is OFF and the mixture control is in IDLE-CUT OFF.

~~~~It's not likely a good Choctaw mechanic would mess up on the " when" part of this maincenance. Most of the sloppy trouble comes from not knowing all of

the. .. HOW The -2 pre-oiling procedure seems simple enough to follow, but it pays to read it

careful~1ike:

1. Fill

an oil tells.

2. Toke out the rear spark plugs. 3. Remove the V.. -in pipe plug from the pre-oil fining-left side of oil pump. 4. Remove the magnetic drain plug from the supercharger rear housing. S. Remove the magnetic drain plug from the front sump. 52

preparation, it'd be a shame to burn out the starter by rushing the operation. So, another reminder-crank the engine for no more than the limit spelled out in your air· craft's handbook, with plenty of time for cool-off between starter engagements. Also, if your aircraft has two switches, don't Hip both switches together. Energize and engage separately. 53

Pre-oil! Start the pre-oiler and crank the engine with the starter until you get clear oil-with no air bubbles-coming out of the pre-oil connection on the oil pump body. Then disconnect the pre-oiler from the housing down under and get ready to stick it into the oil pump~h.ole up . stairs. " :' ",

MOR E ... c::

"

~

ENGINE S_'HERI Now just hold on a minute and recheck step 3 before you go on. There's more'o one same-size pipe plug in this area. Pull the wrong one and the rest of the opertioo's wasted. Now you take out the lr.4 -in pipe plug from the other pre-oil fitting-in the housing forward of the oil system drain valve. This is the fitting you start with by connecting up the pre-oiler here. Then expel all the air from the pre-oiler and be sure the engine oil (MIL-L6082, grade 1100) is heated up between 1000 to 175°F (or 38° to 79°C). Also, check the cockpit to see that the ignition switch is OFF and the mixture control is in IDLE-CUT OFF.

~=~

Pre-oil! Start the pre-oiler and crank the engine with the starter rushing the operation. So, another re- until you get clear oil-with no air minder-crank the engine for no more bubbles-coming out of the pre-oil conthan the limit spelled out in your air- nection on the oil pump body. Then discraft's handbook, with plenty of time connect the pre-oiler from the housing for cool-off between starter engage- down under and get ready to stick it ments. Also, if your aircraft has two into the oil Pump~hole up.stairs. ":i* , • switches, don't flip both switches together. Energize and engage separately. MORE... '

I'

53

Before you do that, though , put the pipe plug back in the downstairs housing and safety it. Then expel all the air from the pre-oiler again and recheck the oil heat. With the pre-oiler connected to the oil pump body, pump twO to three gallons of oil into the engine and start cranking as soon as the oil pressure gage shows a rise. Stop after two to three gallons are in the engine. Pull out the pre·oiler, then put back and safety the second pipe plug and both magnetic drain plugs. Replace the rear spark plugs and you're finished. This -2 procedure, along with the few caution notes tossed in, is the

only way to be sure you pre-oil your R1820-84A or any other engine the right way. Ignoring the book is a sure way to encourage engine failures that lose you time instead of saving it. The know-it-all-by-heart mechanic is a bird's worst enemy.

all the light you need to keep your aircraft on the beam. However, the 100-wattrunway lighting transformer in this set gives off overcoat when you can get a standard enough voltage to jolt a guy into the 200-watt transformer that's been middle of next week. The open circuit checked out for safe operation to take voltage on the secondary peaks as high the place of the present one. At the as 1400 volts. same time, you'll also need a new lamp No need for you and the other guys in the glide-angle-light to go along in your outfit to flirt with a wooden with the new transformer. Shoot your requisition for the 200watt 6.6/6.6 amp transformer through regular general Engineer supply channels. It has been set up under FSN 5950-

754·6388. You'll have to get the newly designed lamp through local purchase uo-

der FSN 6240·688·6351, Pare No. (24446) , 6.6A/TlO/3P. 54

'S OK TO EXTEND APE-BUT...

Dear Half-Mast, We are a little puzzled CotlCertlittg the amount of time an aircraft can be flown over the scheduled periodic inspection time. TB AVN 5, page 9, says: ''These inspection intervals should never be exceeded." Which seems clear enough. Bftt some people say the aircraft can he flown 10 percent over. Some say 10 percent over only if the aircraft is on a flight when the PE comes due. Could you please give us the word? Also, how much leeway does the aviation or maintenance officer have to authorize periodic inspections to be pulled early or late? What specific regulation covers this?

.. . .

~

t!!if::Ji:i;)~~ .M/Sgt C.C.D.

Dear SergeaffF1C D.