PS Magazine Issue 077 1959 Series [77 ed.]

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Citation preview

... BY

the act.

Everything-meaning every piece of clothing and equipment the Army issues you o r that you use . .. gets the " plush-carpet" treatment by you when it comes to core, deoning and right kind of operation. It means everything ... not just rifles and trucks. It means your tent, shove l, pack, radio, stove, jacket, recoilless rifle, mortar-everything.

And, Everybody ... means just that- everybody. Private-yes. Specialist-yup. Corporal - right. Sergeant-him, too. Yes, Sir, rig ht on through lieutenants, captains, majors, colonels and generals. PM is everybody's job.

... BY

EVERYBODY

Which, when boiled down to a nub, Everything-meaning every piece of clothing and equ ipm ent the Army issues you or that you use ... gets the " plush-carpet" treatment by you when it comes to care, cleaning and right kind of operation. It means everything . .. not just rifles and trucks. It means your tent, shovel, pack, radio, stove, jacket, recoilless rifle, mortar-everything, And, Everybody ... means just that-everybody . Private-yes. Specialist-yup. Corpora l-right. Sergean t-him, too . Yes, Sir, right on through lieute na nts, captains, majors, colonels and generals. PM is everybo dy's job.

means that when you (and every man in uniform) have been issued equipment

to wear, use or operate, you've got the

biggest job in the world-that of giving it the right kind of care and operation.

That's Preventive Maintenance your insurance to win in battle.

EVERYBODY

Mrss~e 81asts .... ,.~ " "ike-Ajax Hydraulic Oil:"Recording Changes . . < ••• • • ,."

••

.. .. ..

I

N, my Aircraft .. . .., . .. ',"'," ,; .;: . ~ , ; ; , . .. . JO.Ton MI23 and MI25 Truck$ •• ~~ ... . . , . .

~i'~'dd }~~~~~!:., ...~.".; 14

Which, when hoiled down to a nub, means that when you (and every man in uniform) have been issued equipment

to wear, use or operate, you 've got the biggest job in the world-that of giving

it the right kind of care and operation . That's Preventive Maintenance your insurance to win in battle.

~:~~~:l::r~::~~~~~~::~E~t~:;~ :pg wants your ideas and enffi!itir,ons. and Is glad t& ,"soer your quesflons. Jus! orne fa; Sat Hal!· Mast, PS, Raritan Arsenal, Met~he" New J.m,. Names and addresses are 1 h",y,"" or a ,rocky. mill)' ""'" (than,RI. y,' "'" aclioning job ... your hoocIs" R'pkKe the

fiUer (Op.

~"

S. To check it out, first fill your cooling system 10 the level mark. Remove' the waler pump drive belt, have a buddy slorf the

other, he'i.... weiter-eoDied:compreSSQn.:Oil ibe' 6~t49

""01 Hydrol!lll!lc: 1« with the 1917AI madlin. gun.

Then screw on the muzzle aHodunent and rep"'" ~er and blpad. And don't forget to remove the attachment before you start firing the realstufI. 19

Headspacing your .30-cal machine gun is juSt about as easy as not headspacing the weapon. It only takes a few seconds. And correct headspacing saves wear and tear on the weapon, the ammo and you.

Say the weapon is assembled, but you don't know whether it's headspaced right. OK, then . . . follow the arrows and you'll have this headspacing business down pat.

firll ..• pull !be boll handle I~' rrn; reor 'until you can see the barl'el notches on the reM-of !be harreI.

Second ... wrap yout'hond around a cortridge, screwdriver or punch and screw the barrel into the barrel extension by fuming the notches .. 20

..

TO GET ON THE RIGHT ROAD TO HEADSPAClNG ..•

• 8U1lDiD

~~~

~----

I lilli

Headspacing your .30-cal machine gun is just aix)Ut as easy as not headspacing the weapon. It only takes a few seconds. And correct headspacing saves wear and tear on the weapon, the ammo and you.

Now, holding the bah rearward, unscrew the barrel from the barrel extension one notch at 0 fime (releasing the bolt after each dickh ••

Say the weapon is assembled, hut you don't know whether it's headspaced right. OK, then ... follow the arrows and you'll have this headspadng business down pat.

l

until you ton't see the nOkhes anymore when the bolt is released (The bo~ is all the way forward-in battery.)

I~

Second ... wrap your hand around (f cartridge, screwdriver or punch and screw the borrel into the bo"el extension by turning the notches •.•

A~t •..

poll the bolt handle to the ,eo, until you can see the burr~1 notches on the rear of the boffel. 20

You guys who fire the 1917Al machine gun have something else to think about. Make sure you wrap the pocking the way your FM tells you. If you have it too tight, the borrel won't go all the woy forward, giving you loose heodspoc:e. You con spot loose pocking in no time ... water'lIleak from the jacket. 21

THE

until the notches remain visilHe when the bolt is released (Bolt doesn't go into boffery,)

until you (on't see the notches anymore when

:~:"~:~~n ~;.:;~.)(lhe bolt is all the way

.

IliI1T ~ · I~ .

~

~

~,

~~.

I

Pull the bolt to the rear, unscrew the barrel twO more notches to allow for heat expansion and again release the bolt. After you have the right headspace, make sure the barrel locking spring is engaged in a notch in the rear of the barrel. Something like dict, carbon or a corroded cartridge in the chamber could throw your weapon off even if the headspacin's correct. If so, dean it. If the guo's still sluggish, better let Ordnance look it over.

You guys who fire the 1917Al machine gun have something else 10 think about. Make sure you wrap the packing the way your FM tells you. If you have it too tight, the borrel won't go all the way forward, giving you loose headspace. You con spot loose packing in no lime ... water'lIleak from the jacket. 21

HANG IT UP RIGHT Babies and handsets. Put 'em in their cradles the wrong way and you'll probably end up with trouble. Especially the H-60/ PT hand-

set on the TA-43/ PT, TA-312/ PT and TA-263/ PT field telephones. ' The trouble usually develops around the springs in the handset retaining bracket-that gives the pressure to keep the handset snug in its cradle. Those two little wire springs are a cinch to get knocked down and bent when an operator keeps slamming the handset down on them instead of

Once they lose their spring, the H-60/ PT JUSt won't stay put. Which means the phone has to be taken off the net, and your outfit will be hurtio' until a replacement is brought up. So whenever you secure that handset, first slide the receiver end of it in so's to hit the springs head-on. Then it's a cinch to drop the transmitter end down into _m.r-,"JJ,lJlII.",-. it's bracket for a firm fit.

When the TA-43/PT, TA-312/ PT and TA-263 / PT Telephone Sets are mounted vertically on a tree or pole, be sure the set is hung so chat the line terminals are at the top left. That way. the handset brackets will support the handset the way it should be supported.

22

COMMUNICATE

HANG IT UP RIGHT Babies and handsets. Put 'em in their cradles the wrong way and you'll probably end up with trouble. Especially the H-60 j PT hand-

set on the TA-43/PT, TA-312/PT and TA-263/ PT field telephones. ' The trouble usually develops around the springs in the handset retaining bracket-that gives the pressure to keep the handset snug in its cradle. Those two little wire springs are a cinch to get knocked down and bent when an operator keeps slamming the handset down on (hem instead of Once they lose their spring, the H-6ojPT juSt won't stay put. Which means the phone has to be taken off the net, and your outfit will be hurdn' until a replacement is brought up. So whenever you secure that handset, first slide the receiver end of it in so's to hit the springs head-on. Then it's a cinch to drop (he transmitter end down into _~rll_.Lt.l!Jt....,,-- it's bracket for a firm fit.

TA-43/ PT, TA·312/ PT and TA-263/PT Telephone Sets are mounted vertically on a tree or pole, be sure the set is hung so that the line terminals are at the top left. That way. the handset brackets will suPPOrt the handset the way it should be supported. 22

A NEW PAIR OF BOOTS? For a piece of equipment that doesn't walk, the trusty TA-l / PT telephone sure comes up with its share of boot trouble. These are the two rubber boots (Cover, Protective, handset chassis) r-""''''''':..L~~2~~~~~_ that protect the ringing and talking switches. They're put there to keep out dust, moisture, etc. But the constant pressure of the operator's hand or fingers when he pushes those switches soon rubs the thin rubber through. That exposes the metal switch levers and opens up the chassis to the outside world. One field fix that's come in handy to reduce that friction and wear is a short length of thin plastic "spaghetti" that you can slip right over the metal lever. That keeps the bootie from rubbing directly against the metal.

I If there's no spaghetti in the POt, even a few windings of vinyl electrical tape, or even adhesive tape, will provide a cushion between bootie and lever. This little shoemaker operation, of course, is strictly preventive maintenance. Once done, though, a man can ring and talk for many a day without worrying about a new pair of booties for his baby.

23

COMMUNICATE

A NEW PAIR OF BOOTS? For a piece of equipment that doesn't walk, the trusty TA-l/PT telephone sure comes up with its share of boot trouble. These are the two rubber boots (Cover, Protective, handset chassis) that protect the ringing and talking switches. They 're put there to keep oue dust. moisture, etc. But the constant pressure of the operator's hand or fingers when he pushes those switches soon rubs the thin rubber through. That exposes the metal switch levers and opens up the chassis to the

outside world.

r-=;;';;;---L~/

L.::==-'

One field fix that's come in handy to reduce that friction and wear is a short length of thin plastic " spaghetti" that you can slip right over the metal lever. That keeps the bootie from r ubbing directly against the metal.

;-~~'i70

I ~~~'Q) If there's no spaghetti in the pot, even a few windings of vinyl electrical tape. or even adhesive tape, will provide a cushion between bootie and lever. This little shoemaker operation, of course, is strictly preventive maintenance. Once done, though, a man can ring and talk for many a day without worrying about a new pair of booties for his baby.

23

CONFUSING THE FUSING When it comes co fuses on your ANI GRC9( ),a%-ampdealisplcnty. There was a time when the Power

Supply PP-327 A/GRC-9Y ,used a 2amp fuse. But that soon proved to be more fuse than the unit needed-and gave way to the 3,4-amp rating. There's a chance your power supply is still using the heavier fuse-so you might make a quick check. And once the right fuses are in place, scratch out or paint over the incorrect 2·amp fuse rating that appears on the front panel. The new sign should read, of course:

A rubber stamp or some hand lettering will be plenty good enough for applying this word of advice. Put it on the inside of the control cover door -next to the space where the spare fuses arc mounted. FSN 5920-232-3699 will fetch you the %-amp slo-blo fuses. 24

When it comes to fuses on your ANI GRC·9( ) , a .)-4.ampdealisplenty. There was a time when the Power Supply PP-327 A/GRC-9Y used a 2amp fuse. But that soon proved to be more fuse than the unit needed-and gave way to the %.amp rating. There's a chance your power supply is still using the heavier fuse-so you might make a quick check. And once the right fuses are in place, scratch out or paint over the incorrect 2·amp fuse rating that appears on the front panel. The new sign should read, of course:

Almost any time you're handling your PRC·6, there're three little operational troubleshooting items to take a reading on:

~- u

I@ . .~fm @lJ .::' ~

A rubber stamp or some hand lettering will be plenty good enough for applying this word of advice. Put it on the inside of the control cover door -next to the space where the spare fuses are mounted. FSN 5920·232·3699 will fetch you the %-amp slo-blo fuses. 24

25

-

.-

HANDlE-TALKIE HANDLING Almost any time you're handling your PRC·6, there're three little operational troubleshooting items to take a reading on:

1. TbeINl~lW&'bl"O!YtoopelOfeond mighty Importtl1lti Buf sometimes {lit opefator will forget to :fufffitfo tbe OfF position •.• ;;.; when he', finished lowing, Bad far th, boNery and WOfse,' stlU for rile future usefulness of theset.

Whefl fhe t~~ssiS toyer' Is off, temptation is mlgbty '111m!!. 10 poke here ... feelther • . , . shake aruf iWslt somewhere ek" One 01 rile mo,t tempjp,g g.dg,~ is th, JUMPER PLUG )·1 onlh& , J,.I'~il..Manr.I, iI1I' n g'lSllT1 , ., plugil"'-'on~lImplugtF back in th, wra011. WIII', :if JIIaS: i:~~ "nn,ding /t!IJ.\ 7'

2.

3.

Whenever you're trouLieshaotlng the

'h"si~, not"ally the

inside dUsl (Ove, has be...~1fIIlii front of your steering "Iumn is your fueI_ swil,h, mark.d land R. This ,,,,",,,,s yo., fuel gog. 10 the unit In whichever tonk you set it for. Your gages ore marked in quarters, and since each tonk holck 83 gallons of !IO', you ,on figure oboul 20 gallons 10 lhe quarter mark on Ihe gage. Naturally, 10 find out how,""", go. you hove in the InKk, you lead Ih.~oge 6", on one lonk ond then on lb. other, ondodd 'ere"P.

_ilte,

;:;:~K ~ '~ L \tiN R fUE~'

GAGE;~

swrr(H~[1 ~

" f) • •1*

.

~ S "

8

.

:

. ~,

Uk.wi... over. lleside the mop rompo""'.nt,.Y"11 find a fuel-pump swUth, 0110 I!,atk.d Rond ~ wi1l1 which you soled the lank you wont 10 ....: Asmart man wijl lie .... Ihot llie fuel _ k swndred 10 thelo.k he is aduoUy!!ing" 53

In fact, a mighty fine way to use this fuel system is to use % of whichever tank you choose first, and then switch both your gage and the pump over to the full tank. Then if anythin.E keeps you from filling up again before you run out the second tank, you'll have twenty odd gallons up your sleeve roget home on.

choking as needed in [old weather.

MOVING OUT: Then you are ready to move out. Foe the first couple of times you drive this truck, it might be a good idea to have a ground guide lead you out of any close quarters, particularly if you have to back up. When you're used to the size of the brute, you won't need this. Starting off with an empty truck on level ground, you are OK co stare in second. On hills, or when loaded, of course, you' ll use first. Like was said, on these tcucks you have a straight stick-shift transmission, no synchro-mesh, and they should be driven by ~xperienced drivers because they must be double-clutched. You'll find a rundown on this in your vehicle TM, another in TM 21-305, page 28. and a detailed description in PS 64, beginning on page 41. Practice until you are real skillful at this, and you'll have no trouble herding your bruisers along. 54

Remember, this is not the vehicle to use to break in your newest driver or third KP on some stormy midnight. Units are getting the beSt results when they assign a regular driver as a special duty assignment, and then make sure he is the only one who uses his vehicle and that he has ample time to look after it. After all, grooming a twenty-five thousand dollar stud horse is worth a good man's full time. And in spite of the size of the bruces; you'll find they handle like baby carriages. The control pressures were designed so that if worst came to worst, a trained woman cou ld drive 'em.

NOW,. THAT TRaNSFER:

~ II

No, not the one you been badgerin' the orderly room about ... the transfer case on your truck. It's bolted right behind the transmission, with no intermediate drive shaft or V-joints to worry about. This gearbox has your high and low ranges in it, and also the gears that engage the front wheel drive. (Which is done manually on this truck, by those now professional drivers.) You use your low range for real heavy going, rough cross-councry, big tows and so on. You had beSt also shift to low range and use transmission fifth gear if you have to make any long runs below 15 MPH. This will save wear and tear that would fall on your transmission reduction gears if you ran in high range, transmission third gear. And as for the front drive, you'll normally run with it out of ge~r when on dry, hard-surfaced roads. On snow, ice, mud or loose sand, you use the front drive. You shift this one in while you're moving- an easy push on the transfer case lever closest to you does it, ease it forward to engage the drive.

Happen you get stuck before you get into front drive, let your drivers spin over very slowly while you shift in. To come out of fronc drive when you return to 55

good going, kick your clutch down while pu11ing back on the lever. Driving on hard, dry roads for long distances in front drives puts needless wear on your tires and front drive parts. ..

BaAKES: Any of you who come from the farm are familiar with the brakes on farm tractors, and know how you use 'em to help steer, and to hold a slipping wheel so you can drive our with the otncr onc. So guess what this truck has? Yep, differential brakes, they ca11 'em. That little lever that points down on the steering column right under your left hand, the one with the air valves and fittings, is the control handle. You can apply the rear brakes on the left side by pulling this lever back, those on the right side by pushing it forward. This is not a thing to do on good dry roads, bur you can sec that it will help you steer in mud , particularly if you have a heavy towed load fighting to keep you from turning.

" ''''- C? Th ' '- -

HELPS STRAIGHTEN OUT TRAILED VEHICLE IF IT SWAYS You also have a separatc control for the trailer brakes on the right side of the steering column. Gentle use of this one can straighten out the trailed vehicle if it starts to sway, and on slippery going you use it first, and tap your tractor brakes ,:cry lightly, so the hitch will Stop in a straight line. Normally, your trailer brakes work with your tractor brakes, so the only time you use this control is when you want more brakes on the trailer than on the tractor, or want brakes on the trailer only. S6

SPARE TIRE: The spare tire for this truck is a heavy brute, and the mounting is way high, so there's a davit on the truck, and a block and falls in the DVM to handle it. The upper block of this tackle locks when you pull the fall line away from the block (like a fence stretcher). But it's still a two-man job to shift this spare around.

'FOR RECOVERY: The M123 {ruck~{ractors are bein used with theM15AI and M15A2 semitrailers in place of the older M26Al 's as "Draggin' Wagons". The guys working 'em say they'll do almost everything the old ones will, and are lots easier to handle. But: Remember this rig is intended as a tank transporter, not a recovery vehicle. Which means that those winches are intended to load tanks onto the trailer, not to pull 'em outta hull deep mud. If you've got a tank that's down a gully, or on its side, or axle deep to p-_ _--.,-_.:111;...., a tall Indian in mud, send a VTR out to make the heavy pull, and the transporter to bring it home. Some posts limit the distance a VTR can run on its treads, so if necessary, take two transporters, one to carry the VTR, the other to bring back the recovered tank. About the only trouble that's shown up with these winches has been from trying to make too heavy a pu.1l, recovering a tank. Now it may happen that you'll get your tail in a crack and have to overload 'em. Well, if the man says you gotta, you gotta. Use all the snatch blocks you can get your hands on. If you can set up a four-or six-part line from each of these winches, you can shift anything that's loose at both ends. But be sure of your rigging: Use a Stout tree for an anchor, and be careful. One of those big cables carS7

ries away, it'll play Zorro with a hundred-pound snatch block, and you don't want to be there when the whip cracks. The winches on the M123 are operated from the platform atthe back of the cab, by air valves.

You set your transmission in third gear, the transfer case in neutral, and run your engine at 1000 RPM. There's a throttle control at the winching station to vary 'your engine speed as you need it.

HOT HEAD: New equipment always shows up with a few problems. On these trucks it turned out that the exhaust stacks were at just the right height and direction to blast right into any cars on the road. One driver got the best cussing out heard from the fellow in a passenger car who found this out. So there's a deflector on the way. If your engine sounds rough as a cob, but feels all right, worry not about it. It happens that with half of the VB engine exhaust coming out on each side of the cab, it will sOllnd rough even when running smoothly. Skeptical types can walk back behind the truck until they hear both stacks equally and see for themselves. (The firing order does it).

HITCHES: One other thing: There are two hitches supplied with the MI2S. One is the standard military pintle, which you use to tow trailers, light guns, anything with a ring-type lunette. Then there is the big universal drawbar for the heavy guns. 58

Normally this truck comes to you with the big drawhar installed at the rear, and the lighter pintle s(Owed in a bracket under the front left corner of the truck bed . This bracket has a hard time carrying (he big arcillery draw-har. Smart unies are stowing the big bars and trail clamps in supply, when they're not needed. Or keep a dose eye on your bracket, and repair it if it starts to tear up.

LUBRicaTION: Also on these trucks you'll want to follow your LO right carefully, particularly on wheel bearing and front axle lubrication, on accounta they're built a little different from the other military trucks. You'd better take a look at Fig 123 on page 220 of TM 9·8002 and be sure you understand this front end before you starr tubing. ¥'see, there are two housings filled with oil in this

So, that's about it, You've got a real fine truck, a ten-ton Swiss watch, and if you use hee eight, she'II use you eight, 59

When They're BoHeries-

It may seem like nothing at all, but pulling a battery from one of )'our vehi· des can turn inco a pretty flub-dub kind of deal. No sense in going into all the details about doing this job. But there are a couple or three points you gotta keep in mind. Like these: When taking those6-TN batteries out of your 2 !-7-ton, S-ten and 10-ton trucks, use the handles on the batteries. It'll make the job a lot easier than using a straptype bancry lifter. For your 2-HN's, which don't have handles, use your old reliable battery carrier, strap-type, FSN 5120-288-9187, to put and take the battery from Jeeps. But, never use this battery carrier for torin' the battery around-the pull could damage the battery terminal POSts. Instead of the strap battery carrier, you can make a handy wtin'er from any scrap metal rod and strap. You'll save the battery posts. This thing, by the way, will fit your 6:TN batteries as well as your 2·HN's. Pryin' the terminals off the posts with a screwdriver or anything else except a Lifter and Scraper, battery terminal, FSN 5110·357·6341, can ruin the battery. This Lifter and Scraper is pact of your Organizational Tool Sets ... using other tools' ll break the posts away from the plates, you know. When working on those terminal nuts, it's a lot easier and safer to use a ~6·in open-end or hex wrench. Pliers or an adjustable wrench that's too big will keep you working a long time and give you lousy results. And, of course, hammers are out-whenever you're playing with that battery. 60

PAD YOUR CHASSIS Dear Edicor: Here's the way we keep our delicate electronic equipment from being damaged when it's being taken from our missile unit co the tech services. Instead of letting our chassis and test instruments rattle around on the floorboards or truck seats, we've taken an old packing box, roughly 3 feet long by 2 Y.z fect wide, and padded it with the used padding or packing from an old packing

OLO PACkiNG BOX (ROUGHLY 3' LONG BY 7'1{WRlE)

container. We put the chassis on the padding, then put more padding over and around it. This way. it's fully protected and no amount of hard jolts on bumpy roads will hurt it. 61

Qur padded box saves wear and tear on the equipment, and we don't have to worry about it getting damaged en route. Pfc Joseph J. Juchniewicz Blry 0 , lsi Msi Bn, 562nd Arty

(Ed Note- Good deal for anyone who uses electronic equipment. You could also make a permanent-type padded box with shelves, which could be loaded from the side. This wotltd protect the equipment more from being damaged by the weight of other equipment piled on top.)

A FILTER TIP Dear Editor, Really needed a cool, tender touch a while back. Half of our AN/GRC-19's came home from the field gasping for clean, fresh air. Their transmitters (T-1 95) had near-fatal doses of fouled filters. Those that didn't were shut down with sand, dust and grit in their servo motors. So to help give them their supply of clean, cool air we worked up a kit that uses nothin ~more than some sh~metal. a mesh and a little oil.

first off, you use the thin sheet metoll28 gog. k fine) mob o ,ouple of ,hort dudS. One duct IAlfits oir-light .... 'he o~ intok, port opening in the transmitter. The other; (8), moIce< a right angle wMh tho flrst one."

'0

You might throw 0 rublJer go,ket around the flooge of duel Awhe", Mfils into the intoke port.

62

The only olher pori of the kit tbot you hove to rig yourself is the wirtHnem screen-which fits right inlo dud B. As lor the flher ineK, all you need is one of those dis· posable paper bags that comes wilh any standard tank·lyp' vacuum deaner.

.~~. "lQl ~:

Th. whol. d.ol lill 10gelh:;'1 , smooth and eosy. SUp Ih. hog into its mesh container und slide that ,,