Picturesque illustrations of Buenos Ayres and Monte Video, consisting of twenty-four views : accompanied with descriptions of the scenery and of the costumes, manners, &c. of the inhabitants of those cities and their environs

Citation preview

m

:

>> > » ;>

~^^^- \




I>

»3> V)

>

:>3> -

5D

>3 o >3

Oy-^.3

»

> >,

> 2>

:»

>>

i

1^ #^

J>^^«> )

>

^>

z

3

>^ )

i

.>

O

:

o

/

mmmmmm /' fiuTter-land '

!

sadpf

:

$tcturegs

:

ACCOMPANIED WITH

DESCRIPTIONS OF THE SCENERY, AND OF THE

OF THE INHABITANTS OF THOSE CITIES AND THEIR ENVIRONS.

COSTUMES, MANNERS,

By

&c.

E. E.

VI DAL,

Esq.

LONDON PUBLISHED BY

R.

HUNTED BY

ACKERMANN, I.

101,

STRAND.

HARRISON, 373, STRAND. I

M.DCCC.XX.

f

Wk

PREFACE.

The

important events of which the Spanish colonies in South

America have of

late

years been the theatre, and the successful

struggle for independence

which they are

still

maintaining against

the mother country, have powerfully attracted the attention of

the whole civilized world.

Ay res

as the capital

The

political

consequence of Buenos

and centre of one of the newly established

importance in a commercial point of view, would

republics,

and

render

an object of peculiar interest to the

it

its

nation in the world, even without

its

first

mercantile

attempted reduction during

the late war by the British arms.

Leaving, however, those more abstruse topics to the professed historian

and

political

economist, the author of this work contented

himself with sketching, originally without any view to publication,

some of the

characteristic features

presented by the

Buenos Ayres and Monte Video, and such habits, manners,

and customs of the people

will,

of

peculiarities in the as

most striking during a residence of three years

These delineations

cities

appeared to him in the country.

he presumes, prove the more acceptable

PREFACE.

iv

to the curious,

inasmuch

as,

to his knowledge,

tration of those places has hitherto

The

descriptive part,

no graphic

illus-

been submitted to the public.

unwarped by

political bias,

is

the simple

result of personal observation, with the addition of a

derived from writers of acknowledged authority.

few data

For the benefit

of the reader not conversant with the history of the colonies, a brief introductory sketch states such particulars of their settlement

and subsequent fortunes in

any other shape.

as could not

be conveniently introduced

INTRODUCTION.

The

Spanish possessions in South America were formerly under the sole

government of the viceroy of Peru; but some of those provinces being upwards of two thousand miles distant from Lima, his residence, sustained great incon-

venience on that account; for neither could justice be distributed, nor protection afforded to their inhabitants. ties

were at

To remedy

different times created; the last of

this evil, three other viceroyal-

them

in

1778 at Buenos Ayres,

comprehending the provinces of Buenos A)^res or Rio de

Tucuman, Las Charcas

or Potosi,

la Plata,

and Chiquito or Cuyo.

extended in a direct line from Cape Lobos, which

may

Paraguay,

This viceroyalty

be considered as

its

southern limit, to the northernmost settlements on the Paraguaj^, upwards of sixteen hundred miles; and from the Cordilleras, which separate all

Cape it

St.

from

Anthony,

at the

Chili, nearly

mouth of the

one thousand.

It

Plata, to

embraces

the varieties of climate to be found in twenty-six degrees of latitude; being

bounded on the north by the country of the independent Indians of the

Amazons and tagonia,

The

its

vicinity;

and on the

east

river of

on the west by Peru and Chili; on the south by Pa-

by Brasil and the Atlantic ocean.

province of Rio de la Plata, in which Buenos Ayres

is

situated, lies

on

both sides of the estuary of the same name, in which the mingled streams of the Parana, the Paraguay, the Uraguay,

and other

a mass of fresh water not to be paralleled b

less

in the rest

considerable rivers, form

of the globe for width and

INTRODUCTION.

vi

Of

magnificence.

the circumstances that led to the

country; to the foundation of its capital, which

is

colonization of this

first

more

particularly the subject

of the succeeding sheets; and to the recent revolution which has torn the Spanish sceptre, a brief historical notice will not be

it

from

deemed an inappro-

priate introduction.

considerable portion of the continent of South America was ex-

Though a

by Americus Vesputius, who, more fortunate than Columbus,

plored in 1501

the original discoverer, enjoyed the honour of giving his

western hemisphere; yet tries

bordering upon

it

would appear, that the Rio de

were not

it

visited

In 1515 the court of Spain gave the

by Europeans

command

name

la Plata

whole

to the

and the coun-

several years later.

till

of an expedition destined to

prosecute discoveries in this quarter to Juan Dias de Solis, grand pilot of Castile,

who

sailed

one of sixty soldiers

from Spain

tons,

month of September with

and the two others of

and provisions

he entered a

in the

river, to

for

He

thirty each.

two years and a

On

half.

which he gave the name of Rio Genero, the present Rio

Thence ranging along the

mouth of an immense

which he

river,

perceiving on the north to land,

the whole party others

who

and

situated

is

lost its

fell

lay in

to the

la Plata.

He

entered

Solis,

it,

he went on shore, accompanied by a few of his men.

and to

Here

a sacrifice to the treachery of the Indians, reinforced by

ambush very near a stream

that

still

between Monte Video and Maldonado.

made

he came

bank a number of Charrua Indians, who seemed

commander, immediately returned

discovery was

coast,

own name, Rio de

called after his

an appellation subsequently changed to Rio de

him

took on board sixty

the 1st of Januarj^, 1516,

Janeiro of the Portuguese.

invite

three small vessels,

for

some

years.

to Spain,

bears the

The

name of

Solis,

expedition having

and no farther attempt

at

INTRODUCTION. Meanwhile the in

vii

reports of the prodigious wealth discovered

Peru induced the Portuguese governor of

Brasil,

plan an expedition overland, with a view to share,

For the execution of

tune.

and

fidelity

he could

rely.

it

Don

by the Spaniards

Martin de Sosa,

if possible,

their

good

to

for-

he selected Alexis de Garcia, on whose courage

Taking with him

his son,

who was very young, and

three Portuguese only, Garcia reached the Paraguay, where he found a great

number of him.

Indians,

and prevailed upon a large body of them

to

accompanjr

Penetrating to the frontiers of Peru, he collected some gold and a con-

siderable quantity of silver, with

which he returned

been joined by the Indians, and which he thought an tlement.

Dispatching two of

account of the success of

his

his

companions

to the

to the spot

where he had

eligible situation for a set-

governor of Brasil with an

journey and of the plan he had formed, he

mained himself among the Indians, with

his

re-

No

son and the other Portuguese.

sooner had his messengers departed, than Garcia was attacked by the Indians,

who murdered him and treasure.

On

his

companion, made

his

son a slave, and seized

all his

the receipt of his dispatches, sixty Portuguese and a large party

of Brasilians were sent for the purpose of joining him; but they were so harassed in their progress

mander and

by the Indians, that they turned back,

several

men, and

in crossing the

after losing their

Parana, almost

all

the rest of

comthem

were drowned.

Discouraged by these untoward events, neither the Spaniards nor the Portuguese

made any

farther attempt at conquest or colonization in these parts,

they were visited by Sebastian Gaboto or Cabot.

till

This navigator, who, before

the conclusion of the fifteenth centu^, had discovered Newfoundland and part

of North America for England, conceiving himself neglected in that country,

had entered

into the service of Spain;

and b 2

after the return

of Magellan from the

INTRODUCTION.

via

first

squadron of four

He of

command

circumnavigation of the globe, he was appointed to the

with orders to pursue the same track to the East Indies.

ships,

sailed accordingly in April 1526,

St.

Catherine.

Spaniards,

At

who had

and

the largest of his ships at the island

lost

the port of Patos, on the coast of Brasil, he found two

commanded by

deserted from the force

vicinity of that place fifteen

more Spanish

deserters,

Rodrigues d'Acunha, destined for the East Indies.

Gaboto

that there

was abundance of gold and

resolved therefore to intention,

of a

sail

up that

in the

from the troops under

Don

men informed

All these

on the Rio de

but as some of his

river,

and strongly censured him

silver

and

Solis,

He

la Plata.

officers

opposed

this

for relinquishing the original object of the

expedition, he put three of the most refractory on shore in the island of St.

Catherine, entered the Plata, and anchored at the St. John's, opposite to

Buenos Ayres.

At

mouth of a

this place

rivulet,

left

which he deposited

in

vessels entered the river

the rest, escaping in the boat, or by

the

to seek

a better

Uraguay, but was driven on shore the third day by a

captain and some of his

Gaboto himself

who remained

In compliance with this command, one of the larger

in the vicinity.

The

escaped;

a hut surrounded with palisades; and

departed with the boats, giving orders to those

tempest.

who had

the two largest vessels, with thirty seamen and twelve soldiers,

to defend the effects

harbour

called

he was joined by Francisco

Puerto, the only one of the party that had landed with Solis

Here Gaboto

now

sailed

men were

swimming

killed

by the Indians; while

to shore, returned to St. John's*

up the southernmost branch of the

mouth of the Sarcarana, where he

called Tort Espiritu Santo, leaving in

built it

a

brig,

river Parana, to

and erected a

a garrison of sixty men.

fort,

He

which he ascended

the Parana to the shoals, in the latitude of 27 deg. 27 min. and then returned

and entered the Paraguay, to seek certain Indians who were said

to possess

INTRODUCTION. abundance of gold and he sent the brig up

it

On

silver.

arriving at the

with thirty men.

ix

mouth of

the river Bermejo,

They met with some

who

Indians,

in-

formed the Spaniards that they had plenty of the precious metals in their houses,

which were not

Deceived by

other articles.

who

Indians,

and that they would willingly exchange them

far distant,

this story, fifteen of the

surprised and massacred

them

all.

Spaniards accompanied the

Gaboto soon returned

blow, by attacking the Indians, killing a considerable

making a the

large booty in gold and silver.

It

is

same who had murdered Garcia, and that

brought by him from Peru. considered

all

number of them, and

supposed that these Indians were

was what had been

their treasure

Gaboto, however, ignorant of

this circumstance,

in this idea,

when some

other Indians,

who had

entered into

an alliance with him, not only supplied him with provisions, but bartered Spanish commodities of

name

of Rio de la Plata, a

of gold,

On

this

the precious metals as the produce of mines in the neighbourhood;

and was confirmed

for

for

silver,

trifling value.

name which

He

it still

therefore gave to this river the

retains,

though not the

or any other metal, has ever been found in

his return to

silver

its

least trace

vicinity.

Fort Espiritu Santo, he dispatched Fernand Calderon to

acquaint the Emperor and King of Spain, Charles V. with his discoveries and operations, lected.

and

to present to his majesty the gold

The emperor was

and

perfectly satisfied with the

silver

which he had

col-

conduct of Gaboto, and

ordered him to proceed with the conquest of the country, ^promising at the same

time to send him the reinforcements which he solicited. public exchequer was exhausted,

As, however, the

and incapable of defraying the attendant

expense, a commission to prosecute this conquest was given to

Mendoza, a very opulent inhabitant of Cadiz, who his

own

cost.

Don Pedro

offered to undertake

Meanwhile Gaboto, having waited two years

it

de at

in vain for the

INTRODUCTION.

x expected succours,

command

of

left

Nuno de

men

one hundred and ten

at Espiritu Santo,

under the

Lara, and embarked for Spain, where he arrived in 1530.

whom

Lara, finding himself surrounded by nations

he was too weak to

overawe, endeavoured to cultivate a good understanding with the Timboos, one of the nearest and most powerful tribes.

His success

M angora,

soon involved him in unexpected destruction.

Timboos,

in the course of the frequent visits

in this attempt,

which he paid

however,

the cacique of the to the fort,

became

enamoured of Lucia Miranda, wife of Sebastian Hurtado, one of the principal Spanish

officers.

It

was not long before

this

lady discovered his passion, and

whom

knowing what she had

to

vernor's interest to be

on friendly terms, she used every possible precaution

apprehend from a savage, with

was the go-

it

to

avoid being seen by Mangora, and to guard against any violence or surprise.

The

chief,

Hurtado

on

his part, devising

to pa)'

whom she

him a

visit,

how

and

to get her into his power, frequently pressed

to bring

Miranda with him.

had communicated her suspicions and her

to circumstances, declined

fears,

Her husband,

with a policy adapted

Mangora's invitation, alleging that a Spaniard could

not quit his post without the permission of his superior, nor could he permission except to fight and conquer his foes.

by

this evasion,

to

solicit that

The cacique was not duped

but soon perceived that the removal of Hurtado was absolutely

necessary for the accomplishment of his purpose. It

soon happened that Hurtado was detached with another

Mosquera, and

fifty soldiers, to

able opportunity, since to

which the wife had

chosen

men

in

it

Ruy Garcia

procure provisions. Considering this as a favour-

not only removed the husband, but weakened the force

to look for protection,

Mangora posted

an adjacent morass, and repaired to the

carrying refreshments.

officer,

On

his arrival,

he sent word

fort

four thousand

with thirty others

to Lara, that learning

how

INTRODUCTION. much he was serve

him

till

xi

had brought a supply

distressed for provisions, he

the return of the detachment.

sufficient to

The governor welcomed

the trea-

cherous chieftain with the strongest demonstrations of friendship, and insisted

upon entertaining him and

his attendants.

Mangora, calculating upon such

a reception, had given directions accordingly to his concerted signals with those lasted

who were

fort.

The Spanish

officers,

rest,

and then

fire,

slaughter.

The

fort,

magazines

were mostly

rest killed in their sleep.

posted in the morass were admitted into the

became a scene of confusion and

set fire to the

roused by the alarm of

patched as they rose from bed, and the

men

and

The entertainment

posted in the morass.

the Spaniards sufficient time to retire to

the

to behave,

the night was far advanced; after breaking up, the Indians allowed

till

of the

men how

dis-

Meanwhile

which immediately

governor, however, enjoyed

the satisfaction of revenging himself on the perfidious chief; for though severely

wounded, yet espying Mangora, he rushed upon him, and ran him through the body, but was immediately overpowered and slain by the Indians.

Of

all

the Spanish inhabitants of the

fort,

none was spared but Miranda,

the innocent cause of the fatal catastrophe, four other

women, and the same

bound and

led before Syripo, the

number of young

children.

These were

all

brother and successor of the late cacique.

Syripo, at the sight of Miranda's

beauty, conceived as strong a passion for her as that which had proved fatal to

Mangora.

He ordered

to his attendants.

He

her to be unbound, and relinquished the other prisoners

then told her not to consider herself as a captive, and

solicited her favour with a gentleness that love alone

bosom of a

savage.

one a fugitive in the erful nation.

He

could have infused into the

contrasted her husband's situation and his

forests of a hostile

own

—the

country; the other the chief of a pow-

Miranda's virtue, however, was proof both against persuasions

INTRODUCTION.

xii

and

fear; she rejected Syripo's offers

with scorn, and with a degree of acrimony

that was intended to exasperate and impel

by which she hoped contrary

effect,

He

quest.

to order her

to strengthen the passion of the cacique,

his esteem, or

treated her with

immediate death,

Her behaviour had a

to escape the horrors of violation.

and only tended

commanding

either

him

more

enhancing the value of lenity, indulgence,

have been expected from a savage unaccustomed

by

his anticipated con-

and regard, than could

to controul his

own inclinations,

or to respect female chastity.

Meanwhile Hurtado, on

his return

with the convoy of provisions, was as-

tonished to find nothing but a heap of ruins where the fort had stood.

He soon

learned that his faithful wife was detained in captivity by the chief of the boos,

and with a temerity prompted by conjugal

hastened to the place of her abode. arrival,

and enraged

hatred of the

well as actuated

as

bound

to a tree,

power of beauty

by

inveterate

exclusively possessed the heart of Miranda, and was,

in his opinion, the sole obstacle to his happiness,

seized,

he immediately

Syripo was soon apprised of Hurtado's

at his presumption,

man who

affection,

Tim-

and pierced

prevailed,

he ordered him

to death with arrows.

and the earnest

entreaties of

the savage the remission of the sentence pronounced

was unbound, but detained

as a captive.

to

be instantly

Once more

Miranda won from

upon her husband.

Tormented with

the

He

conflicting passions,

Syripo sometimes seemed determined to sacrifice Hurtado to his jealous fury;

but at others the desire of ingratiating himself with Miranda so far overcame his hatred, that

Hurtado was permitted

to see his wife.

Their mutual

visits

gradually became more frequent and unrestrained; but one fatal prohibition

embittered their happiness.

The cacique warned them

jealousy by indulging in conjugal endearments.

against inflaming his

Vain, however, was the voice

INTRODUCTION. of prudence, and vain were

the resolutions which they formed to abstain

all

Restraint served only to strengthen desire, and

from the interdicted enjoyment.

one

fatal

moment plunged them

them

prised

Syripo sur-

into the threatened destruction.

in each other's embraces,

defiance of his authority, he ordered

which he had before

the punishment

xiii

and

with ungovernable rage at this

fired

them both

to instant death;

so narrowly escaped,

Hurtado

and Miranda

to

to the

flames.

Mosquera,

who was

the

left in

command

repaired the ruined fort; but finding that

of the few remaining Spaniards,

was

it

to

no purpose to remain

there,

on account of the irreconcileable animosity which prevailed between the Spaniards

and the Indians, he abandoned the

and embarked with the remnant

place,

of his garrison in a small vessel that Gaboto had to the coast of Brasil,

left

and afterwards removed

He first proceeded

behind.

to the island of St. Catherine,

where he formed a settlement; from which, however, he was soon expelled by the Portuguese.

During these

transactions, the court of Spain

and preparations were

set

on foot

surpassing any that had been parts of America.

for a settlement

made

Don Pedro

had not

lost sight

on the Rio de

for the establishment

oC Paraguay,

la Plata, greatly

of colonies in other

de Mendoza was appointed commander-in-chief

of the expedition, and governor-general of

all

the countries that might be dis-

covered as far as the South Sea, on condition of his transporting thither, in two

own

voyages, at his

cost,

one thousand men and one hundred horses, with arms,

ammunition, and provisions

for

a year.

He

was authorized

to

form

establish-

ments wherever he thought proper in the lands he might discover; and was at liberty, after

and name

a residence of three years in

his successor,

who

his

left

government, to return to Spain

should be entitled to the same prerogatives as

INTRODUCTION.

xiv

A

himself.

and he was

salary of

two thousand ducats a year

to enjoy a certain portion of all

for life

was

settled

upon him,

such treasures as should

into

fall

his hands.

Don Juan

Orders were issued to equip fourteen vessels at Cadiz, and

an Italian

officer,

who had

was appointed second

in

Osorio,

greatly distinguished himself in the wars in Italy,

command under Mendoza.

These extensive prepara-

and the reports circulated respecting the riches of the countries contiguous

tions,

to the

Rio de

la Plata, attracted so

many

persons, even from

armament comprehended,

nobility of Spain, that the first

among

instead of five hun-

dred as originally proposed, twelve hundred men, including

and Germans.

No

many

especially in the capital of that province.

The

its

was dispersed by a severe storm. Gabriel; while the

many Flemings

Spanish colony, indeed, can boast of such illustrious names

founders; and the posterity of

among

the ancient

rest,

Some

of them

still

exist in

fleet sailed in

Paraguay,

August 1534, but

of the ships reached the islands of St.

with the commander-in-chief, were obliged to take

was

refuge in the harbour of Rio de Janeiro.

Here Osorio was

strongly suspected, at the instigation of

Mendoza, whose conduct excited so

assassinated, as

it

much

dissatisfaction, that

when

the commander, being apprized of their intention, immediately put to

sea,

many

of his followers were preparing to leave him,

and rejoined the other part of the

fleet at

the islands of St. Gabriel, since

called Colonia del Sacramento,

From

this station,

Don Pedro

sent an officer to the opposite

bank

to seek a

convenient spot for the projected settlement, and followed himself with the

whole

fleet.

The

site

of the present city of Buenos Ayres was fixed upon; here

Mendoza immediately ordered

the plan of a

town

to be traced out; the

was begun on the 2d of February, 1535, every man, without

work

distinction, lending

;

INTRODUCTION. his assistance,

ginning was

and

made

in a short time they all

had convenient

to surround the place with walls,

and Pampa Indians brought

provisions,

Don

A

habitations. at first the

be-

Guarani

to the Spaniards.

In

number who were employed

in

and attacked the town, with the intention of destroying the new

Don

In order to chastise them,

erections.

and

which they sold

the sequel, however, they killed ten of their cutting wood,

xv

Pedro sent against them

his brother,

Diego, with twelve captains on horseback, and one hundred and thirty

The second day

after their departure

foot.

they reached the valley of Escobar, where

they perceived a body of three thousand Indians advantageously posted behind

a

little

The Spaniards

and a marsh.

river

scarcely proceeded a few paces,

mud, from which balls, darts,

foot.

A

it

was impossible

and arrows,

great

when

sunk up to their

their horses

had

also perished

on

some time prevailed

for

bellies in

The enemy, with

to extricate them.

killed ten horsemen, including

number of Indians

A scarcity which

attacked them; but they had

Don

their

Diego, and twenty

this occasion.

at

Buenos Ayres became

at

length a dreadful famine, which occasioned the death of about two hundred of the

settlers.

The

Indians also waylaid and destroyed

all

who

Hence a

of appeasing their hunger in the adjacent country.

sought the means prohibition,

under

the penalty of death, was issued against any excursion beyond the limits of the garrison,

and guards were posted

Here another romantic but

as,

notwithstanding

tale is its

at all the outlets to enforce

interwoven with the early history of

improbability,

it

it

its

ought to excite no

this

colony

introduction here.

surprise, if persons,

religion enjoined the belief of the grossest legendary absurdities,

c 2

observance.

has received the sanction of the most

authentic writers, no apology will be necessarjr for

remarked by the way, that

its

Be

it

whose

were capable

INTRODUCTION.

XVI

of a greater stretch of credulity in regard to the

affairs

woman, named Maldonata, having eluded the

and wandered

for

some time about the country,

who soon

visitor,

assistance,

repaid

grateful

as follows:

at length entered a cavern,

The

animal, however,

perceived that she was on the

approached the

was soon delivered of her burden.

by the

is

The

lioness,

which, with her

benefit thus conferred was.

which divided the abundant supplies of food

beast,

The

obtained in her daily excursions, between her whelps and Maldonata. latter for

continued to reside in the cavern

themselves

;

when they

attracted to the spot to quit this

whom

Ruiz Galan commanded up the

was of a

Maldonata, therefore, was obliged,

affection.

asylum; and again rambling through the woods and

by the Spaniards, she was

dition

the cubs were capable of providing

till

disappeared, as did also the lioness, no longer

by maternal

with some Indians, by

she was

made

river in quest of

and

some as

a slave.

beasts, or to perish

at length retaken

Don

Francisco

relief for the starving inhabitants.

Galan

Maldonata had violated the prohibition issued

but the most ferocious tyrant could decree.

bound naked

deserts, fell in

Mendoza, who was gone on an expe-

against straggling, he adjudged her to suffer death,

the country, to be

Being

Buenos Ayres, where

carried back to

in the absence of

cruel disposition;

than

Maldonata, with a courage propor-.

point of littering, and in great agony.

tioned to her desperate situation,

story

life,

vigilance of the guards,

where, to her no small dismay, she found a lioness.

attempted no outrage upon her

common

The

appears to us consistent with sound and sober reason.

A

of

to a tree,

with hunger.

Two

He

and such a death

as

none

ordered her to be taken into

and there

left

to be

devoured by wild

days afterwards, the party

who had

this

barbarous order being sent to see what had become of her, found

her, to their

extreme astonishment, alive and unhurt, though surrounded by

executed

INTRODUCTION.

xvii

wild beasts, which were deterred from attacking her by a lioness that lay at her It

feet.

was the same with which she had so long resided

related her story to the soldiers,

Ayres.

The wonderful

preservation of

Heaven had he attempted

A short time after this

event,

Juan de Ayolas,

whom

and

with the Indians, erected a

Mendoza being dangerously

ill,

embarked

under the

to wait six

months

Don

of Buenos Ayres, and appointing

his suc-

which happened during after several battles

which formed the commencement of the

command

of

city

for his return,

Domingo Martinez de Yrala, whom he ordered he proceeded to the north-west, into the

of the country, with two hundred Spaniards.

In the

mean

inte-

Ayolas penetrated into Peru,

but on his return was surprised by the Payagua Indians, and cut off with followers.

for

Here he placed a garrison of one hundred men, and leaving

his vessels

rior

considered as opposing the

his heir in case of his death,

fort,

Buenos

Maldonata on these two occasions pro-

Ayolas meanwhile ascended the Parana, and,

of Assumption.

to

he had sent up the river to explore the country,

cessor in the government,

the voyage.

and took her back

to enforce his cruel sentence.

command

Spain, leaving Galan in the

released

who would have been

cured her pardon from Galan, will of

who

She

in the cavern.

all his

time, a confirmation of his appointment as governor-

general had arrived from the emperor, with directions that, in case of his death,

the original Spaniards, or the conquerors of Paraguay as they were termed,

should elect his successor.

Accordingly, on receiving intelligence of the unfor-

tunate fate of Ayolas and his expedition, they chose Yrala to the vacant

Buenos Ayres was

in the interim daily losing

its

inhabitants

office.

by famine.

Part of them were in consequence removed to Assumption, and a proposal was

made

for its total

abandonment.

new governor, and

at length

This proposal was strongly supported by the

determined upon.

Yrala

is

conjectured to have

INTRODUCTION.

xviii

been influenced in since,

this affair

on the suppression of

by the

desire of rendering himself independent:

establishment at the

this

mouth of

from the court of Spain could not reach him without

the river, orders

much

and

difficulty

delay; whilst he, being at so great a distance up the country, might easily find

means of eluding them, should they prove as

it

Among

tion.

Assump-

crew of a Genoese

vessel,

which, having put

la Plata

exist

still

with a valuable cargo, had been wrecked on a sand-

On

the arrival of the whole at Assumption,

out of three thousand

hundred were

six

inhabitants were transferred to posterity

Rio de

that,

Buenos Ayres was

;

whose

bank near Buenos Ayres. found

effect

these were several Italian gentlemen,

in Paraguay, together with the into the

its

Be this

any respect disagreeable.

may, the resolution was immediately carried into

completely evacuated in 1539, and

than

in

men who had come from

it

was

more

Spain, not

left.

Upwards of forty years the spot on which Buenos Ayres had stood remained uninhabited. to the

At

want of a

length, the frequent loss of ships safe

fully sensible of the

harbour on the Rio de

coming from Europe, owing

la Plata,

rendered the Spaniards

policy of the re-establishment of Buenos Ayres.

This

measure was therefore determined on, and carried into execution in 1580 by

Don Juan town.

Garay,

who

settled sixty Spaniards

The neighbouring

Garay succeeded

Indians at

first

flourish

;

for

though

its

some other

pretext,

it

The

city

it

gradually emerged.

as if

;

but

remained for a long Its

commerce

port was not opened to strangers, yet

foreign vessels from time to time put into

or upon

ruins of the former

annoyed the place exceedingly

in quelling their opposition.

time in a state of poverty, from which

began to

upon the very

compelled by

stress

many

of weather,

were favourably received, and carried on a

traffic

equally profitable to themselves and the inhabitants, who, by the year 1700,

had increased

to sixteen thousand.

INTRODUCTION.

xix

In 1740, an accession of population and prosperity accrued to this

settle-

ment, from the disasters that befel a considerable Spanish squadron which had

been dispatched for the purpose of repelling the attacks of the British under

Commodore Anson.

Unable, however, to double Cape Horn, and buffeted by

tempests, most of the ships composing

Plata in a shattered and disabled

The

dition to return to Spain.

state,

it

were obliged

to seek refuge in the

only one of the number being in a con-

troops and crews of this squadron settled in the

country, having no opportunity of leaving

it,

on account of the interrupted and

precarious intercourse at that time existing between Spain and her colonies.

The

separation of the provinces of Buenos Ayres, Paraguay,

Tucuman, Los

Charcas, and Cuyo, from the viceroyalty of Peru in 1778, and their erection into a separate viceroyalty, of

which Buenos Ayres was made the

a fresh spring to the prosperity of the. country, which the regulations adopted at the

The

earliest traders to

same time contributed not a

little

capital,

gave

new commercial

to promote.

America seeking nothing but gold and

silver, set

value on countries not producing those metals: apprehensive, however,

no lest

commodities might be introduced into Peru by way of Buenos Ayres, and that this

might prejudice the

sent to

Panama, they

solicited

bition of every kind of

most affected by were permitted

and on

their

this

sale of the cargoes of the fleets

and obtained from the government the prohi-

commerce by the Rio de

two

they

account, a certain quantity of flour, tallow, and jerked beefi

permission had expired, an indefinite prolongation of all

in 1602,

vessels belonging to themselves,

but to no other ports than those of Brasil and Guinea.

extension to

Those who were

la Plata.

measure made strong remonstrances, and

to export for six years in

own

and galleons which they

When it

was

the term of this

solicited,

kinds of merchandise, and to the Spanish ports.

with an

This applica-

INTRODUCTION.

xx tion less,

was vehemently opposed by the consulates of Lima and in

1618,

authorized to

Rio de

the inhabitants of the shores of the

fit

Seville: neverthela

Plata were

out two vessels, not exceeding one hundred tons burden each.

Several other conditions were imposed on them, and to prevent any

Cordoba

the interior of Peru, a custom-house was established at

where a duty of

fifty

per cent, was exacted from

all

to

Buenos Ayres, even

When

in

payment

for the

silver

mules furnished by the

the term of this permission had expired,

nite period

del

it

was prolonged

by an order of 1622; and with a view

to

with

Tucuman,

This custom-

imports.

house was also designed to prevent the transmission of gold and

traffic

from Peru

latter place.

for

an indefi-

promote the prosperity

of this country, a royal audience was established in 1665 at Buenos Ayres, but

Such was the general

again abolished as useless in 1672.

state of things,

though

individuals from time to time received licences to ship off cargoes of goods, till

1778,

when

the Rio de la Plata

and even with the

was thrown open

to traffic of every kind,,

interior of Peru.

Previously to that date, no more than twelve or fifteen registered vessels

were engaged

in the colonial trade of all

seldom performed more than one voyage vessels

Spanish South America, and these

in three years.

In 1796, sixty-three

from Old Spain alone arrived in the single port of Buenos Ayres, with

cargoes valued at nearly three millions of piasters; and fifty-one sailed from for the

Africa.

mother country, fourteen to the Havannah, and eleven to the coast of

The value

of the exports was about five millions and a half of piasters,

including upwards of four millions in gold and

In the succeeding years, the \l

it

produced a material change

hostilities

silver.

between Great Britain and Spain

in the state of this colony;

and such was the con-

sequent stagnation of trade, that the warehouses of Buenos Ayres and

Monte

INTRODUCTION. Video were

filled

European goods rate.

with hides and other native productions; while

of

many

kinds of

rose to exorbitant prices, or were not to be procured at

The people

this situation

xxi

any

of the United States of America wisely availed themselves of

and by means of a contraband

affairs,

traffic,

carried

on with

the connivance of the Spanish government, they continued to supply the inhabitants of these provinces with

productions in return,

till

European commodities, and

the fortune of

to take the native

war placed Buenos Ay res

for

a short

time in the hands of the British.

The

circumstances attending the capture of the city of Buenos Ayres, in

June 1806, by an expedition equipped

command well

of Sir

known

to

viceroy, the

Home Popham

it

Cape of Good Hope, under the

and General (now Lord) Beresford, are too

need recapitulation.

l*he inactivity

Marquis de Sobre Monte, on

by Dean Funes, the justice; for

at the

historian of

this occasion, are severely

by

birth,

does not appear that he

made any attempt

This

This honour was reserved for

who had commanded one

officer, in

Don

it

to defend this import-

from the possession of the

Santiago Liniers, a Frenchman

of the Spanish ships of war on this station.

the absence of the viceroy,

hundred and sixty leagues distant from the all

censured

Buenos Ayres, and apparently with great

ant city against the small British force, or to wrest conquerors.

and incapacity of the then

who had capital,

retired to

Cordoba, one

put himself at the head of

the troops he could muster on both banks of the Plata, and on the 12th of

August attacked the general

was obliged

city

on

different points with

to surrender himself

This fortunate result occasioned the

first

and

all

such success, that the British his troops as prisoners

step to that revolution

of war.

which has since

separated these provinces from the mother country ; for the people of Buenos Ayres, indignant at the conduct of their viceroy, insisted on investing their

d

INTRODUCTION.

xxn the supreme

deliverer with

civil

and military authority, with the

of

title

captain-general.

The

British

government, unwilling to relinquish the important commercial

advantages which the possession of the banks of the Plata seemed to promise,

was meanwhile engaged

in preparing

an armament

for their effectual reduction.

In February 1807, Monte Video was taken by a British force under Sir

Samuel Auchmuty; and General Whitelocke, who arrived still

more considerable army, thought himself strong enough

the capital. fested

The

by the

cool determined valour

of.

in the Plata with

a

to attempt to regain

the troops, and the energy mani-

leaders of the several columns, in the

memorable attack of the

5th of July, were, however, thwarted by the imbecility, or something worse, of the commander-in-chief, which involved the failure of the enterprise, and led to the ignominious capitulation

the Rio de la Plata, including

The unprincipled royal family,

Ayres

till

whole of

invasion of Spain by the French, and the captivity of the this event,

were not known at Buenos

towards the end of July 1808, when an emissary from Buonaparte his version

assembled the principal this

to evacuate the

Monte Video.

which very soon followed

conveyed to Liniers

by

by which he agreed

of the transactions in the Peninsula.

civil officers,

and

in their presence the letters

An

messenger were opened and read.

excited in the minds of

" sible," says

F lines,

all

who composed

Liniers

brought

extraordinary sensation was

the meeting.

" It

would be impos-

" to communicate a just idea of the indignation produced

" in Liniers by a proceeding which tended to " most execrable villany, without citing his

make him an accomplice

own

expressions.

in the

Whilst reading

" these letters, he interrupted the narration with this apostrophe: 'Vile "

'

infamous

man

!'

alluding to Buonaparte,

'

and

accustomed to be surrounded by

INTRODUCTION.

xxiii

"

'

flatterers,

"

'

bat mercenary troops, and an energetic people raised to the highest pitch of

"

'

indignation and patriotism.

"

*

acquiredst thy glory

"

'

thee in order to put an end to anarchy, will be the

"

*

overwhelmed with shame

"

'

sovereigns prostituted and so long occupied by a foreigner, whose immoralitv

"

'

and baseness are

the Spaniards will teach thee, that

as

general should publicly

low

to

and who have submitted first

to forsake thee,

was agreed that the captain-

It

passing in the mother country.

re-embark immediately, and Ferdinand VII.

was not long before the rank and popularity of Liniers began

the people of the east

and

to

form a

bank

to

Monte Video, who found means

and

distinct junta, in imitation of those of Spain.

Don

to excite

to persuade

renounce their dependence on the captain-gene-

tations also filled the central junta in Liniers,

to

rejoicings.

the envy of Elio, then governor of

ral,

'

make known what was

was proclaimed with great It

just,

having beheld the throne of their legitimate

as his birth.'

The French emissary was ordered

not the same thing to com-

The genuine Frenchmen by whom thou

when thy wars were

at

it is

His represen-

Europe with suspicions of the

fidelity of

Baltazar Hidalgo de Cisneros was appointed to supersede

him.

The

disastrous events

which soon afterwards followed each other

succession in the mother country, seemed to forebode nothing less than plete subjugation

by France.

The

central junta

members had vested

power

was dispersed and

in rapid its

com-

dissolved,

after

some of

who

addressed a proclamation to the Americans, frankly acknowledging the

its

their

in a regency of five persons,

oppressions to which they had hitherto been subject, absolving farther

them from any

dependence on the Spanish government, and committing their future

destiny to their

own

hands.

These circumstances induced most of the American

d 2

INTRODUCTION.

xxiv

At Buenos

provinces to establish independent governments for themselves.

Ayres, Cisneros informed the inhabitants of these events, at the same time

avowing the uncertainty he

The cabildo,

rity.

felt

own

respecting the maintenance of his

availing itself of this declaration, petitioned

him

autho-

to assemble

a congress, which might decide what steps ought to be taken in such a juncture.

The

viceroy complied with the petition of the cabildo

the congress

;

met on the

22d May, 1810, and decided that a junta should be formed; which was accordingly done on the 25th of the

same month.

The junta was opposed by by

assisted

raised an

by

Cisneros, the

Spanish chiefs in Paraguay, who, being

the

army of two thousand men

his troops,

planned

late viceroy,

for the

its

overthrow.

same purpose, but being deserted

he was taken in the neighbourhood of Cordoba, with several of

the principal opposers of the reA'olution in that quarter, to die,

Liniers also

and executed according^.

Cisneros and the

who were

all

sentenced

members of the audienza,

being discovered to have entered into the plot, were exiled, and embarked for the

Canary

Elio,

Islands.

who had been appointed by

the regency of Spain captain-general of

the provinces of Rio de la Plata, and in that capacity exercised the supreme authority in

the province of

only formidable native of

enemy

Monte Video,

to the junta.

Monte Video, and captain

or

About

Banda

this

Oriental,

time,

Don

was now the

Jose Artigas, a

in the royalist troops, having

some cause

of dissatisfaction with the governor of Colonia, offered his services to the junta of Buenos Ayres in the beginning of the year 1811, and obtained assistance in arms, ammunition, and troops, for the purpose of exciting insurrection on the east

bank of the

South-American

Plata. officer,

The command

of the troops was given to Rondeau, a

who had been made

prisoner

by the English

at

Monte

INTRODUCTION.

xxv

Rondeau

Artigas and

Video, and afterwards served in the war in Spain.

several

May

times defeated the royalists, especially in the battle of Las Piedras, in 1811,

when

the Spanish troops defending

soners, with their

The

commander.

from Buenos Ayres, then

laid

La Banda

made

Oriental were

pri-

conquerors, having received reinforcements

Monte Video.

siege to

Elio, finding himself

incapable of making a long resistance, implored succour from the Portuguese

government

in Brasil,

Notwithstanding their

which sent a force of four thousand men arrival, Elio

of Buenos Ayres, and in latter

should evacuate

retire to their

own

made

November

La Banda

to

Monte Video.

proposals of peace to the government

1811,

it

Oriental,

was agreed that the troops of the and that the Portuguese should

territory.

This treaty was soon broken, and the government of Buenos Ayres deter-

mined again

to besiege

Monte Video, where Elio had been succeeded

command by Don G. Vigodet, who had Europe.

The fortress

held out

till

received a reinforcement of troops from

June 1814, when

it

capitulated, on condition

that the garrison

should be allowed to embark for Spain.

amounting

thousand five hundred, were, in defiance of the

to five

in the

capitulation, distributed through the interior provinces of

The

Rio de

prisoners, articles

la

of

Plata,

Vigodet alone being permitted to embark.

A

change had meanwhile taken place in the form of government.

junta of three, which had greatly retarded public

assembly held on the 31st December, 1813, and of the executive power, director, assisted

ferred

on

Don

it

was vested

in

affairs,

Gervasio Posadas,

succeeded by Colonel Alvear,

who

was abolished by an

in order to strengthen the

one person, with the

by a council of seven members. resigned

it

in

The

title

This high

hands

of supreme

office

was con-

January 1815, when he was

who had commanded

the

army

besieging

Monte

INTRODUCTION.

xxvi

Video

at the time of

as chief of

give

it

up,

its

Of

surrender.

this

Oriental; the government of Buenos Ayres refused, to

La Banda

and he immediately commenced

successes obtained

town, Artigas demanded possession

by one of his

officers,

In consequence of some

hostilities.

Colonel Soler,

who had been appointed

governor of Monte Video, received orders to withdraw with the remnant of his troops from the town, of which Artigas immediately took possession.

now determined marched

to transfer the Avar into

tor dispatched

instead of

which that

officer arrested

which he was allowed

to

embark

in

Alvear, and being supported by the

an English

Another of those changes which are so

The supreme

vincial

constitution

on

frigate.

common

in popular

governments now

who formed

intrusted the legislative power.

a

A new pro-

was published, and Rondeau was nominated supreme

director; but as his military nel Alvarez

it

army

his authority,

authority was vested in the municipality,

junta of observation, to Avhich

direc-

to oppose his progress,

compelled him to resign

capital,

The new

place.

two thousand men under Colonel Alvarez

and the inhabitants of the

ensued.

the province of Buenos Ayres, he

and made himself master of that

to Santa Fe,

Being

was appointed

command required his

his

deputy.

Alvarez convoked a new congress of the

representatives of the province, but before sessed of his authority

presence with the army, Colo-:

it

could assemble he was dispos-

Don Ramon

by a popular commotion.

Balcarce was

then appointed supreme director, but soon removed, and the administration of public affairs placed in the hands of a committee; sovereign congress

inTucuman on

de Pueyrredon,

who

to the office of

supreme

is

till

on the meeting of the

the 26th of March, 1816,

Don Juan

Martin

held in high estimation by his countrymen, was elected director,

which he

still

holds.

On

the 9th July

fol-

lowing, the congress published the following formal declaration of independence:

INTRODUCTION. "

We,

xxvii

Provinces of Rio de la Plata,

the representatives of the United

who

" assembled in a general congress, imploring the Supreme Being " over the universe, calling on heaven, earth, and

men

to witness the justice

we

" of our cause, in the name, and by the authority, of the people " solemnly declare, that

"

all

the

ties

it is

presides

represent,

the unanimous will of the said provinces to break

which united them

to the kings of Spain, to be reinstated in all

" those rights of which they were deprived, and thus to be raised to the rank " of a free and independent nation, capable henceforth of forming for itself such a " government as justice

and circumstances imperiously demand.

We are there-

" fore empowered by the United Provinces at large, and by each one separately, " to declare and engage that they will support this independence. " property, and fame shall be their guarantee. "

whom

our fate

may

interest,

and

Out of

Their

lives,

respect for the nations

feeling the necessity of declaring the weighty

" reasons which impel us thus to act,

we

decree that a manifesto shall be pub-

" lished."

Among

there were several besides himself in

its

Buenos Ayres with Alvear

the persons exiled from

favourite plan for extending

who encouraged

to the

Rio de

In consequence of their representations, an army of ten thousand

sembled

in Brasil,

1815,

the Portuguese government

American dominions

its

in April

la Plata.

men was as-

and under the command of General Lecor invaded La Banda

Oriental on two different sides.

In spite of the opposition of Artigas,

who

proved himself the steady friend of independence by his refusal of the rank of brigadier offered cause,

by the Spanish government

Lecor reached Maldonada

following entered

in

to induce

December

Monte Video, which

is

still

him

to espouse the royal

1816, and on the 20th January

held by the Portuguese, though

they are greatly harassed by the guerrillas of Artigas,

who occupy

all

the sur-

INTRODUCTION.

xxviii

rounding country, and cut off

With

Oriental,

and

Artigas has possession of the whole of

La

which he governs independently; and a good understanding

between him and the congress, whose authority, after a long struggle,

subsists

carried

the supplies of provisions from the interior.

Monte Video,

the exception of

Banda

all

on with various

Chili,

is

vicissitudes against the royalists

now acknowledged by

on the

frontiers

of Peru

the whole of the provinces of Rio de la

Plata.

These provinces, twenty into high

Cruz de Potosi,

and low. la Sierra,

in

number, are divided, according

The former

La

are,

Moxos and

to their situation,

Chiquitos, Apalobamba, Santa

Paz, Cochahamba, Carangas, Misque, Paria, Charcas,

and Atacama; the

latter, Tarija, Salta,

Paraguay, Tucu man, Cordoba,

Cuyo, Entrerios, Monte Video, or Banda Oriental, and Buenos Ayres. total population

thousand

of

this

immense

tract does not

The

exceed one million three hundred

souls.

Since this Introduction was written, Pueyrredon has been dispossessed of the supreme directorship of the United Provinces of

La

Plata; and the chief

authority has several times changed hands in the struggle which has ensued, and

does not appear to be yet terminated.

Ko«a»

o

.

1

. ;

.

& xi

Esq

.

del

SClrfp}

OF

BUENOS AYRES AND MONTE VIDEO

MONTE

VIDEO,

FROM THE ANCHORAGE OUTSIDE THE HARBOUR.

On

the east

Mary,

its

bank of the Rio de

for small vessels;

On

in the rear of hill

Maldonado, the

of

takes

last

feet

water cannot

Monte Video, he

its

name.

is

a

hill

lie

there

of consi-

At the entrance of the

river,

mountains are seen by the navigator, and

on

takes leave of high land; the whole shore

deck in the passage upwards, which

It

Video, on a small pro-

the other side of the bay, opposite to the city, it

St.

northern side, forming a tolerable harbour

its

both sides being afterwards so low, that

may be

Monte

but such as draw more than eleven

derable elevation, from which

with the

one hundred miles from Cape

extreme east point, stands the city of

montory, with a spacious bay on

in safety.

la Plata,

is

it

cannot be discovered from a

directed

by the soundings.

ship's

This

hill

seen at the distance of twelve or even sixteen leagues.

was

in 1724 that orders

were issued by the court of Spain

tion of this place, the settlement of

which

Avas

commenced

for the founda-

in 1726,

twenty families brought from Palma, one of the Canary Islands, by

de Zabala, then governor of the province of Rio de

B

la Plata.

with about

Don Bruno

The motives

of

MONTE

2

VIDEO.

the Spanish government in forming this establishment were, to anticipate the

Portuguese,

who had

manifested an intention to take possession of the whole

north bank of the river, and to prevent the contraband trade which was boldly-

on

carried

in these parts.

Sensible of the importance of the place, the Spa-

niards took great pains to fortify

A

Ayres. is

and

;

it is

defended by

a rising ground, in the centre of the isthmus,

mounted with but

is

much

it

stronger than Buenos

wall and ditch are carried across the isthmus, on which side alone

not surrounded by the sea

On

and rendered

it,

forts

it

along the sea front.

a fort with four bastions,

is

which commands the approach by the harbour,

brass cannon,

The

too distant to throw shells over the town.

barracks are said to be

bomb-proof.

The town makes a handsome appearance from

the harbour, being built

an ascent, and the houses interspersed with trees and gardens. houses exceed one story: they are of stone and brick, and have

out chimneys; the kitchen, cold.

and brought

The

into the

rooms

and

in fire-pans

intersect

Near the top of the town

and on the west a large church.

Monte Video

is

of the

flat roofs,

with-

being generally kindled in the yard, or in a detached

streets are broad,

are unpaved.

square,

fire

Few

upon

acknowledged

to

is

when

the weather

is

wet or

each other at right angles, but they the market-place, about 300 yards

There

is

also a

convent of Cordeliers.

be an admirable station for trade, having

a tolerably good harbour*, a central position for collecting produce, and the

* Azara, whose means of furnishing accurate information cannot be questioned, nevertheless asserts that this port

is

gradually becoming shallower, and there

soon be rendered unserviceable.

He

says,

moreover, that

is

it is

reason to apprehend that

exposed

occasion the more frequent accidents to shipping, because the bottom

hold for the anchors, and rots the cables and timbers.

is

to violent winds,

a soft

mud,

it will

which

that affords

no

MONTE

VIDEO.

3

navigation of the river so far being attended with

little

danger.

It rose, in

consequence of these advantages, to be a very flourishing place; but the

which have convulsed almost the whole of Spanish America, have

revolutions

involved

The

political

Monte Video

city itself

is

taken possession of

gone to decay, and though the Portuguese, who have are

it,

making some improvements,

country has put an end to

state of the

any plans

into effect

in ruin.

for that

as the distracted

commerce, the means

purpose are extremely limited.

for carrying

There was

many elegant villas belonging to

merly a very extensive suburb, with merchants of the city; but

all

still,

now remains

for-

the Spanish

has been so completely desolated during the con-

it

independence, that some broken walls and part of a chapel are

test for

lately

all

of what once contained a population of six thousand souls.

that

Pre-

viously to this struggle, there were fourteen thousand inhabitants within the

number

walls; this

is

now reduced

The country bordering on

to five thousand.

the east bank of the river, and denominated

by

the Spaniards, Banda Oriental, consists of very extensive ranges of gentle ele-

The

vations.

soil

forms but a scanty covering for the solid rock, that

underneath throughout the whole excellent building material.

and on the this

rock

On

the heights of

destitute of hills,

it

soil in

wood,

yet,

it.

Maldonado and Monte Video,

perhaps one thousand square leagues,

so near the surface, that there

cultivation, or for trees to take root in

found

and furnishes the inhabitants with an

tract,

frontiers of Brasil, in a space of

is

is

is

not a sufficient depth of

Though

the country

is

soil for

consequently

being somewhat diversified by the undulation of the

possesses in this respect a decided superiority over the west bank.

The

general consists of clay, of a blackish colour on the surface, from the

remains of decayed vegetables; lower

down

B

2

it is stiffer,

and of

different colours

MONTE VIDEO.

4

—white,

red, yellow,

and variegated. The

used, diluted in water, instead

first is

of lime, to whitewash the houses in the country; and the red and yellow are

employed

for painting trellis-work.

fine ochre.

clay; lity,

and

The jewellers

of Paraguay

and that of a dark colour though

all the

setting fire to

The Rio de

The

is

yellow,

make

purified a

little,

yields a

crucibles of the brownish yellow

used for dishes and plates of very good qua-

baking they receive consists in

filling

the vessels with

wood

it.

la Plata, at

Monte Video,

is fifty

Point Indio, on the west bank; the water distance

if

more than

five

fathoms deep.

is

miles across in a direct line to

brackish,

and

in

no part of the

BUENOS AYRES, FROM THE BANK BETWEEN THE OUTER AND INNER ROADS.

Buenos Ayres

is

hundred miles from feet

above the

on the west bank of the Rio de

situated its

mouth.

which

river,

It

is

built

upon a bank, from

To

flat

marshy

the north, the

interval,

from a quarter of a mile

bank does not recede

approaches and overhangs the

river, as at

the pretty village of San Isidro, which residence for the citizens.

Two

thickets is

eye can reach,

—a perfect jungle,

is

a

but on rapidly,

At

more than half a mile this distance it

Buenos Ayres, having on

its

again

brow

a kind of watering-place and summer

miles farther, at another village, called the

Punta, the bank suddenly leaves the as far as the

is

twenty

to four miles in breadth.

so far, leaving not

of low marshy ground for the space of sixteen miles.

it;

bank recedes

this

citj'",

above two

fifteen to

the general level of the country behind

is

the border of the river to the south of the leaving a

la Plata,

flat

river, falling

swampy

back due west; and below

it,

country, covered with rushes and

chiefly consisting of espinilla (thorn),

cut and sent to Buenos Ayres for fire-wood.

It affords

much

of which

harbour to nume-

rous panthers.

About two situated

miles

beyond the Punta, on the

on a small stream, which

falls

flat, is

the village of Las Conchas,

into the river

Luxan a

little

before

it

BUENOS AYRES.

6

To

joins the Plata. all

those from Paraguay, which

cordage, sail-cloth,

to return

which

is

up the

down

river.

and here

or Paraguay tea, wood,

matte,

hides

;

and

tallow,

discharge their

to

Buenos Ayres, and receive European commodities

The

principal reasons for the adoption of this practice,

attended with the inconvenience of land carriage for so great a distance,

the safety of the vessels in the port, and the security of the cargoes in

are,

At Buenos Ayres, on

loading and discharging. is

bring

cotton manufactures,

which are carted

cargoes,

of tolerable burden can come

this place vessels

bad and open, so that

in

ticularly the country craft,

the other hand, the anchorage

a hard gale vessels seldom hold their ground, par-

which have cables made of the bark of a

very tough when new, but soon rots; and great delay

is

lie

exposed

many days on

this

is

often experienced during

rough weather, when carts are prevented from discharging the times

tree, that

account, and goods,

craft,

which some-

when they can be

removed, are often injured by the wet.

The

tree

from the bark of which the cables just mentioned are made,

doubtless, the guenbe described this

kind of cordage

is

by Azara; who, however, expressly

not liable to

rot.

which grows on the tops of the highest stem

is

The

guenbe, he says,

when they

trees

about as thick as a man's arm, from three to five

are several to each plant.

It

produces an

maize, as well as the seeds, that are very sweetish taste.

From

ear,

is

asserts that

a parasite plant,

begin to decay. feet

is,

high

;

Its

and there

which exactly resembles that of

commonly

eaten, because they

have a

the top of the trees in which these plants have fixed

themselves, they throw out straight roots, without knots, of the thickness of a finger,

which sometimes

fail

quite perpendicularly, and at others twine round

the trunk, and then strike into the ground. fixed

upon a reed; and

their bark,

which

They are is

very

cut at the top with a knife

fine,

and

easily separated,

is

BUENOS AYRES. used for making

7

the cables and cordage employed in the navigation of the

all

Paraguay, without any other preparation than wetting age

is

cheap, never rots in water or mud, but as

of hemp,

it is

made somewhat

thicker;

also

it is

This bark, which

is

when

is

it

much

Spanish frigates have, nevertheless, occasionally used advantage.

it

This cord-

dry.

not so strong as that

The

injured by friction. this

kind of cordage with

of a dark violet colour,

is

also

employed

in

ornamenting rush mats and baskets.

The

ybira,

another native plant, which furnishes materials for cordage,

species of the aloe family,

good

for nothing.

The

and produces a

leaves,

These leaves are pulled covers each side

but the interior

may

fibres,

off,

which are not very thorny, are from three

and dew-retted

called caraguata. is

drawn from

with a comb, formed of six or eight

articles

an inch

it

of that kind.

dimensions

made

made

it;

or after

nails, it is

cables.

for

making

after

to

which, the skin that

has been dressed a

thinks that

it

little

gets loose or rots in the

would be taken

friend of his

in the royal arsenals with

left

used for caulking vessels, in

of caraguata, and on comparing

He

it

oakum never it

is

without any farther ope-

for

hemp; and

sail-cloth, rigging, cables, or

Azara mentions a

the stronger of the two. for the ropes

hemp,

this state,

the appearance of the caraguata,

would answer

thick,

like

In

preference to hemp, because this kind of

no doubt

resembling the pine-apple, but

fruit

be easily separated with the fingers, when nothing

ration, shoemakers' thread

From

a

not above two inches broad, and of inconsiderable thickness.

five feet long,

water.

is

it

who had

any other

a piece of rope

with another of the same

hemp, the former was found

would be scarcely

flexible

to be

enough

used for working a ship, but that there can be nothing better for

BUENOS AYRES.

8

In the annexed view, the whole length of the city

seen extending from

is

north to south about two miles, including the suburb.

It is generally half

a

mile broad, and rather more in the centre.

The

which form a harbour, with

vessels are represented in the inner roads,

commonly two fathoms

water, between the shore and an extensive sand-bank,

that forbids the approach of vessels requiring a greater depth, nearer than six or

Into this harbour, called the Balisas, small vessels proceed at once;

eight miles.

but the larger discharge part of their cargoes into river craft in the outer roads,

and then come into the

and convenience: there they

inner, for greater security

take in half their loading, and return to the outer roads, whither the remainder

of their cargoes

is

brought to them by the river

One

craft.

of these

is

seen

returning light over the bank; but loaded craft cannot enter the same way, for

want of water, and

A lie

British

man

are obliged to pass through a channel to the northward.

of war's boat

in the outer roads, or

where

vessels

accident.

is

shewn going

Amarradero, where there

have been known to remain

The Spanish

in shore, as those ships always

ship of

war the

for

is

excellent anchorage, and

a great length of time without

Vigilant,

among

others,

is

said to have

lain here nine years.

The water

at this place

across to the nearest point

is

alvvaj^s perfectly fresh,

and the

river thirty miles

on the opposite shore.

Buenos Ayres has another

port, ten leagues to the south-east of the city,

called the

Bay of Barragon, where

dation of

Monte Video.

It

is

the king's ships used to

lie

before the foun-

formed by the rivulet of Santiago, which can

receive vessels drawing twelve feet water, but

none

larger.

Hither

ships, after

discharging the cargoes they have brought in lighters in the roads of Buenos

Ayres, repair to wait for their outward cargoes.

BUENOS AYRES.

9

Before Buenos Ayres became the seat of a viceroy,

it

was considered

fourth city in rank in South America; but since that period inferior to

none but Lima.

stance, in opulence fectly straight side.

The

It

has also increased rapidly, from the same circum-

and population.

and broad, unpaved

which used

formerly had his college,

mud

is

regularly built, the streets being per-

in the middle, but

Most of

walls; but a Jesuit,

making

bricks

The

is

now reckoned

who was employed

to erect the

not

church of

cityr

has since assumed a very

architecture of the cathedral,

Thus,

their care in the execution of these

it is

dif-

who

and many

recorded that, in 1663 and the following years,

hundred of those people were engaged upon the

the cathedral of Buenos Ayres.

in

and of most of the

likewise ascribed to the lay-brothers of that community,

other public works.

ture,

is

the buildings, both public and private,

and lime*, and the

employed the Indians under

five

having footpaths on each

between seventy and eighty years ago, instructed the inhabitants

ferent appearance.

are

It

to be estimated at forty thousand,

fewer than seventy thousand.

churches,

has been held as

houses are supposed to amount to six thousand; and the number of

inhabitants,

the art of

it

as the

The

latter

is

fortifications, the port,

and

a spacious and handsome struc-

having an elegant cupola, and a portico, the design and execution of which

The

highly extolled.

gilding.

The dome

of the Apostles.

interior

is

contains paintings in compartments, representing the Acts

The church

of the Franciscans, and that belonging to the

order of Mercy, are next in rank

;

both have steeples and cupolas, nearly in

the same style as those of the cathedral. the Last Supper, which

is

In the former, there

is

a painting of

esteemed a very capital performance, considering that

* The lime of Buenos Ayres in beds, as there is

profusely decorated with carving and

is

of very bad quality, being

no limestone in the country.

c

made from

shells,

which are found

BUENOS AYRES.

10 it

was executed by a native

The frame

the Uraguay.

artist, is

an Indian convert,

in

one of the missions on

composed

also remarkable for being

entirely of

feathers of a bright gold colour, so ingeniously put together, as to

have the

appearance, even to the closest observer, of the nicest carving and gilding, and it is

This picture was

only by the touch that the difference can be discovered.

given to the Franciscans by the Jesuits, not long before their suppression.

church of

St.

John, on the

the converted

skirts

of the town,

There are

Indians.

is

The

appropriated to the use of

convents and nunneries, and

several

all

these edifices are built of a beautifully white stone, found in a plain not far

The

from the town.

whiteness of the public buildings

is

preserved and height-

ened by the frequency of the wind called pampero, which excellent bleacher.

and Calle

The

del Victoria.

principal streets are

The

cathedral, runs nearly the

former,

and behind, and many have

Among

regarded as an

Calle del Santa Trinidada

faces the

whole length of the

grand entrance to the

and

city,

is

occupied by the

Almost every house has a garden both before

superior class of the inhabitants.

flowers are reared.

which

named

is

latticed balconies, in

which odoriferous shrubs and

the European flowers cultivated here, the carna-

tions are the largest in the world.

The by

its

climate of Buenos Ayres

name.

is

proverbial for

its

salubrity, as

is

indicated

Situated between the 34th and 35th degrees of south latitude,

it

enjoys a temperature nearly resembling that of the southern regions of Europe. It

is

considered as an ordinary winter

which water frequent. capital of

is

slightly frozen

The winds

;

it is

when

there are but three or four days

reckoned severe when

this effect is

on

more

here are three times as violent as at Assumption, the

Paraguay; the west wind, which

is

being probably intercepted by the Andes,

scarcely

known

at the latter city,

though more than two hundred

BUENOS AYRES. leagues distant,

is

more common

boisterous in autumn, but stronger

11

Buenos Ayres.

at

Here the winds

are least

and more steady in spring and summer, when

they raise clouds of dust; which sometimes darken the sun, and greatly incom-

mode

the inhabitants, soiling their clothes, and covering their apartments and

furniture.

The most

violent winds are those from south-west to south-east:

the latter always bring rain in winter, but not in summer.

Hurricanes are

rare,

but they sometimes occur, as that of the 14th May, 1799, which overthrew half of the village of Atira in Paraguay, killed thirty-six persons, removed a great

number of

carts,

and

horse, the animal having been fastened

tells us)

smaller ones on the beach off

In

this country, the

damp

side of the roofs it is

floors

the walls which have the

:

is

is

moist,

the 18th September,

large vessels

and many

and

spoils the furniture, especially

of rooms exposed to the south are always

same aspect are covered with moss, and that

overgrown with thick

grass, nearly three feet high, so that

necessary to clear them every two or three

lodging and soaking through.

head of a

Monte Video.

atmosphere

Buenos Ayres, where the

tore off the

On

by the neck.

same year, another occurred, which stranded eight

the

at

Azara

(so at least

j'ears,

to prevent the water from

This humidity, however,

is

by no means

preju-

dicial to health. It

seldom happens that the vapours are sufficiently condensed to form fogs;

the sky

is

clear

and serene; and

Buenos Ayres, and then the same effect

of Lima, who,

it

is

recorded that snow never

in very small quantity.

upon the people of the country

when they go from home

the sight of rain, which

is

unknown

fell

but once at

This phenomenon produced

as rain does

upon the inhabitants

for the first time, are astonished at

in that city.

Hail

is

very rare; yet in the

storm of the 7th of October, 1789, twelve leagues from Assumption, a shower

C

2

BUENOS AYRES.

12 the stones of

fell, is

a bar which

wind

is

when

suffocating heat all

The

in diameter.

surest sign of rain

seen fixed at the horizon in the west at sunset.

is

an indication of rain on the day

be expected,

In

which were three inches

at night-fall lightning

is

more

particularly in

The same

is

north

may

effect

when

observed in the south-west,

and when the opposite coast

is felt,

seasons, but

after the next.

A brisk

a

seen from Buenos Ayres.

summer, there are frequent showers

of rain, accompanied with lightning; the claps of thunder follow one another

with scarcely any intermission, and the sky appears to be one sheet of

The

lightning

is

dangerous, especially

if

the storm

come from

fire.

the north-west.

During such a storm on the 21st January, 1793, the lightning struck thirty-seven times in the interior of the city of Buenos Ayres, and killed nineteen persons.

These storms, the great quantity of

rain,

and the violent thunder and

ning, cannot be attributed to the influence either of is

guay, unless is

woods or mountains; there

not a mountain within the distance of one hundred leagues; nor

single tree to the south of the it

Rio de

there

is

is

there a

la Plata, or to the north as far as Para-

be on the banks of the rivulets: hence

we may

the nature of the atmosphere which produces such meteors at

much more

light-

frequently than in Europe.

all

infer,

that

seasons,

it

and

Notwithstanding these circumstances,

not a more salubrious climate in the world; for the vicinity of marshes

and inundated

lands,

which are frequently met with, has no

upon the health of the

inhabitants.

The Spaniards who

reside in the

ill

effect

whatever

government of Buenos Ayres, proceed rather

from the continual recruits that arrive from Europe, than from the intermixture with Indians, whose number has always been inconsiderable in this country; for

which reason they speak the Spanish language.

Monte Video, Maldonado, Assumption,

Corrientes,

The

cities

of Buenos Ayres,

and Santa Fe de

la

Vera

BUENOS AYRES. Cruz,

may

13

be considered as the only Spanish towns in the extensive province of

Though

Paraguay.

there are villages

and hamlets, yet the inhabitants are not

united on one spot, but live dispersed in the country in detached houses, at a great distance from one another: so that there are no other residents near the

church, than perhaps the parish priest, a

Even when any of

the parishioners build themselves a cottage in the village,

they never

make

tival, after

which they return

use of

it

but when they attend mass, or on some religious to their habitations in the country.

above-mentioned contain about as vince.

They

negroes,

many

Spaniards as

by the

entertained in return

often manifests itself

husband and

wife,

when they happen

imitation.

much

essence of gentility

Add

stronger in

is

who

born,

it

is

consigned to the

takes care of

it till it

to this a dislike of every kind of

America than any where

thought to consist in doing nothing.

is

else,

dain every kind of labour, and look upon

Their chief vices

and among the lowest

class,

are,

it

if

as beneath

a passion for

them

see

employ-

because the these

artisan dis-

to follow their

women and gambling;

drunkenness: but they possess acute perception and

sound understandings; so that with the same

no doubt equal,

attains

Imbued with

and the notion of equality, the children of the meanest

father's occupation.

Ame-

During that period, the child cannot

the age of six years, or perhaps more.

is

the aversion for Europeans

to be natives of different hemispheres.

the Spaniards, as soon as a child

any thing worthy of

is

between children and parents, or between

charge of a mulatto, negro, or Indian nurse,

principles

cities

the rest of the pro-

Creoles, or the offspring of Spaniards born in

rica, that it

ment, which

all

The

fes-

consider themselves as beings of a far superior class to the Indians,

and people of colour; and so decided

Among

a shopkeeper, and a publican.

farrier,

not surpass the

latter.

facilities as

Europeans, they would

The mechanical

arts are

confined to

BUENOS AYRES.

14

'such as are absolutely indispensable

Spaniards from Europe,

Ay res, Monte

or

;

and these are practised only by poor

by people of

colour.

The women of Buenos

Video, and Maldonado, are not fond of spinning either wool or

cotton; but in the other towns, females follow that employment. dress,

and

fashions, are

Monte Video, which greater,

much

are the

the

same

as in Spain; but at

larger scale.

customs,

Buenos Ayres and

most considerable and opulent

and the domestic establishments on a

The

places, luxury

is

m

a

&

^

15

LANDING AT BUENOS AYRES.

Near

the centre of the city, a

little

to the north of the citadel,

a mole of rough stone, intended for a landing-place. dred yards long, twelve wide, and six high. the river

two

rials,

sometimes

Notwithstanding

this projection, it,

and

five or

The

it

reaches the boats; for with northerly and north-west winds, paris

driven out of the river to such a degree, that

men have gone

It has

even occurred within the

out on horseback on the bed of the river to the dis-

on the most respectable authority,

that,

to the people of

since the river

is

Buenos Ayres.

it is

about twenty-five years ago,

during a strong northerly wind, the water disappeared, and

mud

its

last ten

tance of five miles from the shore, during a strong north-west wind; nay, related,

fare

but a few yards, while at others the cart must go a quarter of a

frequently dry for that distance.

years, that

about two hun-

plying for the purpose of landing passengers.

ticularly if strong, the water is

constructed

or about fifteen pence each trip, be the distance small or great:

it is

mile before

bed

is

so shoal, that boats are very seldom able to approach

is

six carts are constantly is

It

is

left

an horizon of

Such a circumstance might happen,

here thirty miles across, and has no more than three fathoms

water in the deepest part, excepting close to the opposite shore of Colonia,

where

is

a narrow channel of four,

five,

produced by an easterly wind, which,

Buenos Ayres;

and

six fathoms.

if violent,

always

A

contrary effect

raises the

so that in a strong gale from that quarter, the

mole

is

is

water at

sometimes

LANDING AT BUENOS AYRES.

16

covered, with the exception of the extreme point, which

and has a battery of three guns. tion,

cause the river to

rise or fall

made of a phenomenon

still

reason could be assigned for prevailed, the water

dually rose again to

At

:

perhaps not

less

than seven

more extraordinary, inasmuch it.

On

in this state

also

till

it

remained

for

is

satisfactory

from the

a whole day, and then gra-

a

which the

back-ground.

custom-house watch-house, for the pre-

are not allowed

they are not carrying off bullion.

goods being taken

craft are seen lying in the

risguardo, or

who

all

by the

who embark

sentinel

they have presented themselves at the watch-house, and

this search, their

no

as

Mention

one occasion, when none of those winds

vention of smuggling, with officers to examine persons especially the former,

feet.

usual height.

its

to the custom-house, off is

rest,

these winds, according to their direc-

the mole passengers only are allowed to be landed,

Here, however,

higher than the

to such a degree, as to recede three leagues

fell

shore at Buenos Ayres

Thus

is

on the mole it is

British officers in uniform are

word of honour being deemed

sufficient.

or land; to pass,

ascertained that

exempted from

17

THE FORT.

The Fort of Buenos Ayres ditch on three faces,

is

a square building of brick and stone, with a dry

and a drawbridge

into the market-place.

It

the resi-

is

dence of the Chief Director of the United Provinces, and the government offices are

within

This view

is

walls.

its

taken from under the mole-head, on a

summer evening. Behind

the Fort are seen the churches of San Francisco and San

formerly called del San Benito, but

now named

Domingo,

in the street

the Street of Victory, from the

surrender of General Craufurd in the latter church.

The bank upon which tides the walls of the is

a passage between In summer

is

built here overhangs the river,

and

in high

Fort are washed by the waves: in general, however, there it

and the water.

this spot

water-front of the city.

out scandal.

the city

is

a favourite bathing-place, being the centre of the

Here men and women bathe promiscuously, but with-

The women

undress on the beach in parties, leaving a servant to

take care of their clothes, which they drop from under a large loose bathingdress.

As

feet deep,

the water

and then

before sunset

till

is

sit

very shallow, they walk out into

down, and wash and comb each

it till it is

other.

about two

From an hour

dark, thousands of females bathe here during the

summer

months, and afterwards walk on the beach, with their long hair hanging to dry

D

THE FORT.

18 nearly

down

a servant,

to the ground.

who

The beach

earlier,

and these are accompanied by

holds an umbrella over them as a screen and shade. is

covered with grassy knolls, overflowed at high water, con-

taining numbers of resort of

Some bathe

little pits,

which the

washerwomen, who are

day, great holidays excepted.

tide leaves full,

to be seen at

Each family

and which are the

work here by hundreds every

sends a slave or two; but

these people follow the occupation of washing for a subsistence.

use soap in this operation, but likewise beat the clothes with

and dry them on the

considerable

mands the anchorage of the inner by the

They not only wooden

number of

militia

mallets,

roads.

guns, and, with the mole*

com-

At the time of the capture of the

British troops in 1806, they found here about forty pieces of cannon,

of various calibers, mounted, and two thousand stand of arms. garrison

of

grass.

The Fort mounts a

city

many

The

usual

was seven hundred men; and about three thousand of the provincial

were supposed to be always in readiness to co-operate with the regulars.