Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps, Volume II: The Production, Manufacture and Application of Perfumes [6 ed.]

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PERFUMES, COSMETICS AND SOAPS With

special Reference

to

SYNTHETICS By

WILLIAM

A.

POUCHER

Ph.C, F.R.P.S.

Volume BEING A TREATISE

Two

ON THE PRODUCTION, MANUFACTURE

AND APPLICATION OF PERFUMES OF ALL TYPES

Sixth

Edition

Reprinted

LOND ON

CHAPMAN AND HALL LTD 37 ESSEX STREET, W.C.

1950

2

FIRST PUBLISHED

•

SECOND EDITION

.

1925

*

.

1928

FIFTH EDITION

.

.

SIXTH EDITION

.

THIRD EDITION

FOURTH EDITION

REPRINTED

.

•

.

1932

1936

-

1941

-

1950

Catalogue No. iS^t4

PHnUd

m

Gt«a Britain by The Aberdeen University Press. Aberdeen. Scotland.

Bound

by G.

&

J. Kitcat, Ltd., London.

Flexiback Binding.

AUTHOR’S PREFACE TO THE SIXTH EDITION Since the publication of the last edition of this work, a considerable amount of research has been devoted by chemists in France and Switzerland to the constitution of some of the flower oils. I have included the more important results in the respective flower monographs, and this information should be useful to perfumers duplicating the various blossom odours.

• .

I have reviewed the formulae in the light of and made adjustments where necessary.

40 Piccadilly,

London, W.

i,

July, 1941.

this

work

—

Vll

CONTENTS CHAPTER

........ —

Historical Sketch

I.

PAGE 3

— The Chinese The Egyptians, specimens in the British Museum — Tutankhamen, analysis of cosmetics found, uses of perfumes by the Egyptians — The bath — Cosmetics The Bible, perfumes mentioned therein —Jewish cosmetics — The Koran — Persian religions and idolatry — Asiatic nations — The Greeks —Theophrastus, description of the perfumer’s art and the raw materials he used — The Romans — Unguent containers Arabian research — Oriental cosmetics — Perfumes and cosmetics in Britain — The Act of 1770 — Grasse and the natural perfume industry — The legitimate use of modern cosmetics — Face massage — Face The

Atlantians

lifting.

CHAPTER The Production

II.

of Natural Perfumks

The perfume

.

.

.

.

.21

Research work of numerous the plant. chemists 2. Agricultural research 3. Times of new crops of the more important flowers, oils, etc. 4. The separation of the natural odoriferous materials by means of distillation, expression, extraction (enfleurage, maceration, and volatile solvents) Percentage yields of concretes and absolutes Processes patented I.

—

—

in

— —

5.

Statistics.

CHAPTER The Purchase and Use I.

How to buy — 2.

—

of Flower Absolutes

.

— —

—

artificial

CHAPTER

I.

III.

Manufacturers’ raw materials absolutes Testing the odour 4.

and pure standards for sale 6. Qualities in of absolutes in perfumes, etc.

Odour

—

—

Classification

Rimmel’s

—

2.

5.

flower

3.

.54

Suggested

oils

...... —

Piesse’s

.

Dilutions

3.

—

7.

Use

IV.

Crocker and Henderson’s.

60

CONTENTS

Vlll

CHAPTER Fixation

V.

.....

and Blending

.

.

66

final fixation—-2. Natuni! I. Introduction, pre-fixation, blending, fixators, animal, vegetable (including essential oils, balsams,

gums, and oleo-resins)— 3.

Artificial fixators, synthetic aromatic:

compounds (including ambers, floral fixators, oriental fixators, and toilet water fixators) with formula-— 4. Classification of fixators: (i) Essential oils; (2) Balsams, gums, oleochemicals,

Synthetic aromatic chemicals (4) Odourless Flower perfume fixators ; classified and tal^iilated of the more important floral odours with wide range of suit-

resins, etc.

synthetics list

(3)

;

—

;

5.

able fixators.

CHAPTER Monographs on Flower Perfumes

VI.

...

.

.

-90

History, varieties of flowers and their cultivation, odour, natural perfume, chemistry, compounding notes, synthetic comi)onc*nts, Acacia, cassie, artificial ottos, alcoholic perfumes, including carnation, chypre, cyclamen, fern, gardenia, hawthorn, honeysuckle, heliotrope, hyacinth, jasmin, lilac, lily, magnolia, mimosa, narcissus, new-mown hay, orange blossom, orchids, reseda, rose, sweet pea, trifle, tuberose, violet and wallflower. :

CHAPTER Miscellaneous Fancy Perfumes Non-alcoholic concentrates Continental practice. I.

...... —

—

Well-known recipes

2.

CHAPTER

Toilet Waters

VII.

.......— Honey

266

3.

VIII.

.

.

296

Hungary water 2. Eau de Cologne, history, original type, modern prototypes, quickly matured, flower modifications, terpeneless, cheap, frozen— 3. I.

Introduction,

water,

Lavender waters, English and French, quickly matured, amber, and cheap 4. Florida water, eau de Cananga, and eau de Portugal.

terpeneless

—

CHAPTER Soap Perfumery Division

IX. ^

of manufacture.

.318

Perfuming and milling often a separate business. Milling chips—-2. Soap making. Raw materials, best quality stock, boiling process. Dry chips. Cold process. Shaving, transparent, buying milling chips. Superfattmg— 3. Milling process, mixing, milling, plodding, stamping. Coloured soaps, pigments and dyestuffs used. Cracking— 4, Perfuming, notes on main constituents. Flower oils, matching I.

—

—

CONTENTS

IX

PAGE with an example of violet.

Perfume components. Formulae for principal soap perfumes 5. Antiseptic and medicated soaps.' Comparative properties of volatile oils. Antiseptic perfume 6. Perfumed wrappers and boxes.

—

CHAPTER

X.

Tobacco Flavours

367

Curing. strictions.

Prizing.

grown.

Plant varieties

Origin of tobacco.

I.

Cultivation.

Constituents— 2. Manufacture. Excise reand snulf, including perfume

Cigars, cigarettes, tobacco

and flavour formulas

—

3.

Tobacco

duties

and

statistics.

CHAPTER XL Floral Cachous I.

380

Early types of mouth pellets

standards, base, bouquet

and

2.

Lozenge-made cachous,

floral flavours

cess— 3. Tablet-made cachous,

with formulae, pro-

base, manufacturing process.

CHAPTER XIL Incense and Fumigants

387

Incense, ancient uses, joss-sticks

3.

Perfumed incense

—

4.

—

Fumigating pastilles— Perfumed ribbon, cards, programmes.

I.

CHAPTER

391

—

two types

2.

CHAPTER Fruit Flavours I.

Natural

—

Sachet base 3. Odour Pot-pourri, olla-podrida— 5. Solid perfumes.

General notes,

formulae— 4.

XIII.

Perfumes

HETs AND Solid I.

.

.

fruit juices,

XIV. 399

.

preparation, yield— 2.

—

and approximate yield 3. components and 14 type formulae.

process

2.

Artificial

Concentration, fruit

flavours,

APPENDIX

409

INDEX

421

XI

LIST 1.

Wooden

2.

Kohl Pots

..... ...... ......

Toilet Box

3-

Kohl Vases

4

Hair Pins, Stibium

.

OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Pencils,

and Ear Studs

.

5.

Unguent Vases

.

6.

Unguent

Kohl Tubes, and Roman Combs

7.

Kohl Tubes

.'

Vase,

.

.

.

..... ...... ..... ..... ..... .... ...... ..... .....

in coloured glass

Facing page

3

6

jj

jj

7

JJ

10

JJ

10

H

JJ

14

JJ

8.

Razor and Mirrors

J7

IS

9

Hawk

JJ

15

JJ

30

-

Mirror

by Fire

10.

Distillation

II.

Distilling Plant

12.

Distilling Plant

13

-

Distilling Plant

14

-

Storage of Floral Waters

15

-

Enfleurage

.

31

JJ

Page 32 JJ

33

Fachgpage 34 40 ii

16.

Storage of Pomades-

JJ

17

Defleurage Machine

JJ

42

JJ

42

JJ

43

JJ

43

JJ

44

JJ

44

-

Vacuum Surface by new method

18.

Remov^al of Stalks by

19.

Chassis Grease

.

..... .....

20: Chassis Grease Surface by old 21. Maceration Process 22. Maceration Process 23. Maceration

method

.... .... ...... ....

Flower Presses

40

JJ

45

24. Volatile Solvent Plant

JJ

46

25- Volatile Solvent Plant

JJ

46

JJ

47 48

26, Volatile Solvent Plant

27. Batteuses for 28.

Carnations

Washing Pomades

29. Carnations in cultivation

.

JJ

96

JJ

97

OF ILLUSTRATIONS

LIST

Xll

30. Carnations in cultivation

31.

Two

3 2.

Cyclamens

33.

Gardenia.

.

Varieties of Cassie

102

.

,

.

.

,

36.

Honeysuckle

37.

Hyacinths

.....

38. Hyacinths awaiting Extraction

.... .... .... .... .... .... .... .... ....

39. Jasmin Flowers

40. Jasmin Plantations 41. Syringa Vulgaris 42. Lilies of the Valley

44.

Mimosa Flowers

45. 32.

Avenue of Mimosas

Mimosa

47. Narcissus cultivation

48. Jonquille Flowers

49. Orange Trees in 50. Collecting 1

.

14

„

I

60

n

1

66

71

^

^

„

176

„

176 1H6

..

«S 7

„

1K8

„

_

Mignonette cultivation .

.

,

59. Peasant

Stills

•

.

.

60. Peasant Distillery 61. Distillation in Bulgaria

62. Roses arriving at works 63.

Still

^

Stills

68.

Modern Steam Stills at

Kalofer

92

„

206

„

210

7)

212

.

„

212

„

213

214

214

66. Different Systems of Distillation

67.

191 I

202

64. Condensers 65. Fire

xS^

„

7,

Heads

Stills

I

>>

»

7J

57. Village of Shipka

35

4^

190

54. Separating Orange Blossoms from Leaves

58. Collecting Roses in Bulgaria

^

^

154

j,

.

>>

yi

I

Orange Blossom

.

30

34

,,

of Orange Flowers

55. Separating Neroli Oil

1

1

„

Orange Blossom

Orange Groves near Grasse Distillation

„ M

170

bloom

full

53. Collecting Algerian

56.

18

.

43. Magnolia Grandiflora

5

10

1

Oxyacantha

34. Crataegus

35. Heliotrope

46. Sorting

I

77

215

77

215

218

.

220 221

LIST

OF ILLUSTRATIONS

.... .... ...... ...... .... ..... .... ......

69. Rose Extraction by Volatile Solvents 70,

Rose Fields in Provence

71.

Rose Collection

72.

Sorting Roses

73. Sweet Peas

at

.

.

»

•

>>

Hyeres

74. Trifolium Incarnatum

Facing page 222

•

•

)}

227

•

?>

242

jj

246

•

75. Tuberose Flowers

•

76. Collecting Tuberoses

•

}}

•

yj

77.

Parma Violets

..... ..... ...... ...... ...... ......

78. Victoria Violets

n

•

}}

80. Violets ready for Extraction

•

}}

•

82. Collecting English Lavender

•

83. Soap Mill

•

84. Soap Plodder 85.

Soap Stamper

00

249

254 254

•

79. Collecting Violets

81. Wallflowers

226

227

}}

255

25s 264

>f

312

yf

324

•

)}

325

*

)5

326

VOLUME

11

PERFUMES

VOL.

II.

—

Fig.

I.

— Wooden Toilet

Bcjx. I

V'd /o, nths, 'and sometimes for

beans,

years,

when

the alcohol

lost

any objectionable

smell

it

With the present possessed and became slightly fragrant. excise duty such lengthy operations would never pay, and have been devised. The best add an aromatic resin extract whose odour to the perfume for which the alcohol is to One gram of resin extract added to i litre

as a result other processes

method is

is

similar

to

be used. of alcohol will neutralise its characteristic aroma in a few weeks without giving it any specific odour, and in consequence the solution so obtained may be used for almost any perfume without much risk of spoiling the fragrance of the particular floral extract to be dissolved in it. A good example of such a resin for general use is benzoin R., but it must be remembered that the spirit containing it leave a very thin film, having an almost imperceptible odour that will be at once lasting and

will, after volatilisation,

satisfying to the user.

method

It will

be readily observed that

this

possesses distinct advantages over the old one

that complete

and

identical results are obtained

in

every time

further,

it will be noticed that definite basic blends can be repeated by the addition of known percentages of fixators.

As an

illustration of this point, the addition of i gram of each of benzoin and tolu and gram of olibanum to I litre of alcohol will give-, in about one month, a perfeedy de-odorised alcohol suitable for making verbena }^-

perfumes or some eau-de-Colognes. Similarly, the addition of certain quantities of labdanum, orris, and Peru balsam will produce a spirit well adapted for the oriental type of bouquet. Ginger and opoponax added to the latter wlE niake it heavier and warmer, while oakmoss and vetivert will alter the aroma slightly, so that the alcohol can be used satis.

factorily for trefle, foin

per

'

coupe, and fougere.

Blending will, of coOTse, depend upon the particular ume which is in course of preparation, and, according

— FIXATION AND BLENDING to

whether

it is

of

71

or of fancy type, so will the range For be used suggest themselves.

floral

of bodies that may example, in violet perfumes, santal, costus, ylang-ylang, and orris may be used ; in lily of the valley creations, bois de rose, ylang-ylang, and hydroxy-citronellal can be employed ; in carnation^ heliotropin, iso-eugenol, and benzyl iso-eugenol are useful, while for fancy bouquets almost any of the fixators can be introduced, providing their notes

combine

“to

form

that for a large

known

perfect

a

number of

harmony. floral

It

is

safe

to

say

perfumes, the better-

bodies, such as cqumarin, vanillin,

and heliotropin,

pointed out that as methyl naphthyl ketone and di-

can nearly always be utilised, but

it

is

of such articles methyl hydroqulnone will materially improve the fragrance of the finished product and are in consequence more The odorous resins of suited for “ perfumes^ de Juxe.” ambrette, angelica, patchouli, santal, and vetivert should not be oveitooked, as they are excellent substitutes for their corresponding essential oils. traces

probably the most delicate operation distinctive perfume, as it is this part of the process which gives distinction and ‘Gife” to the finished product. This step really consists of three Final Fixation

in preparing a

operations {a)

is

good and

:

The

addition of

some animal perfume, such

as

small quantities of musk, civet, ambergris, or castor, which will impart “ warmth and life ” and at the same time im-

prove the aroma by softening down the harshness caused by the presence of synthetics. if) The addition of a small quantity of a substance, such as verbena, bergamot, or bois de rose, which will produce a swet and pleasant effect. (r)

The

addition

of a suitable quantity of natural

and glowing characteristics, such as jasmin, rose, mimosa, or tuberose, which will give the predominating fldwe!y*^ote to a perfectly harmonious mixture. The finished perfume should be neither too animal nor too chemical if these points have had careful consideration. absolute, having fresh

— i.joixrumJi0, »^UMViniie;s

AND

SOAPS

no definite rule that can be laid down for the choice of fixatives other than the general principle of complete harmony between the various constituents employed Every perfumery chemist has his in any one perfume.

There

is

frequently a comprehensive knowledge, acquired by practice, of a certain number of bodies which he is inclined to use as a base when buiUiing up all new

own methods and

With

creations.

a view to exteivding this

list cd' fixatives,

regarding the employment suggestions will be made of some of the newer and more powerful h