Perceived Brand Localness: An Empirical Study of the German Fashion Market [1st ed. 2020] 978-3-658-28766-5, 978-3-658-28767-2

Table of contents :
Front Matter ....Pages I-XXI
Introduction (Jörg Igelbrink)....Pages 1-10
Literature Review (Jörg Igelbrink)....Pages 11-66
Empirical Research and Method Approach (Jörg Igelbrink)....Pages 67-152
Presentation of Results (Jörg Igelbrink)....Pages 153-288
Conclusion (Jörg Igelbrink)....Pages 289-298
Back Matter ....Pages 299-320

Citation preview

Business Analytics Klaus-Peter Schoeneberg Editor

Jörg Igelbrink

Perceived Brand Localness An Empirical Study of the German Fashion Market

Business Analytics Series Editor Klaus-Peter Schoeneberg, Hamburg, Germany

The interdisciplinary approach of the series “Business Analytics” synergises the scientific disciplines of Ecommerce, business informatics, economics and mathematics. Based on the latest scientific methods, models and algorithms, the series integrates two juxtapositioned fields of research: scientific methodology and practically derived data in the discipline of strategic and operative business oriented questions. Within these disciplines, the series presents results of current research questions about data- and future-oriented themes as strategies, analytics and prediction. The findings of this series are highly relevant to all scientific fields in this area of research, academic institutions and companies that have an awareness of how data can drive business outcomes but want to better leverage data as a corporate asset for competitive advantage. Edited by Prof. Dr. Klaus-Peter Schoeneberg Hamburg University of Applied Sciences Hamburg, Germany

More information about this series at http://www.springer.com/series/15363

Jörg Igelbrink

Perceived Brand Localness An Empirical Study of the German Fashion Market With a Preface by Prof. Dr. Klaus-Peter Schoeneberg

Jörg Igelbrink Hamburg, Germany Dissertation, University of the West of Scotland, 2019

ISSN 2570-1363 ISSN 2570-1371  (electronic) Business Analytics ISBN 978-3-658-28766-5 ISBN 978-3-658-28767-2  (eBook) https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-658-28767-2 © Springer Fachmedien Wiesbaden GmbH, part of Springer Nature 2020 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publication does not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, expressed or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. The publisher remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations. This Springer Gabler imprint is published by the registered company Springer Fachmedien ­Wiesbaden GmbH part of Springer Nature. The registered company address is: Abraham-Lincoln-Str. 46, 65189 Wiesbaden, Germany

Acknowledgements There are a couple of people whom I like to thank: I was blessed with supervisors who guided, challenged, and supported me: Dr Lorna Stevens, Dr Declan Bannon and Dr Kalyan Bhandari of the University of the West of Scotland. Thank you for your guidance and inspirational dialogues. I would particularly like to thank Prof. Dr. Klaus-Peter Schoeneberg. Klaus-Peter, your support was invaluable for me. Your feedback and the discussions with you opened a door to a more comprehensive theoretical and practical scientific understanding of my topic. Prof. Dr. Michael Zerres, our regular inspirational discussions provided a lot of valuable feedback and helped to overcome doubts of my research. Marten Wolters, thank you so much for your support. I value our academic dialogues and deep friendship. Essential in the endeavour to conduct this research were the interview respondents. I am very grateful that they took the time and granted me their trust in sharing their knowledge and experiences with me. It is due to the insight they offered that this investigation is as practice related as I aspired it to be. I am convinced that the findings will support them and their organisations in their essential work. Special thanks go to Prof. Dr. Zita Schillmöller and the team of the Promotionszentrum of the HAW Hamburg. Their valuable feedback, advice, critique as well as the well organised and considered workshops offered were immensely helpful. I would like to express my gratitude to my family. Without you this research project would not have been possible. I am thankful beyond words for your love and your continuous support. Doris & Erni, and Vera Igelbrink, Daniela and Jerry Engeln. Daniela, you have invaluably supported me the last years, thank you!

Preface by the Editor The German fashion market is one of the most attractive consumer markets in the world. Even though this market is highly competitive, it remains one of the largest market volume and corresponding economy of scale effects globally. Moreover, the national German fashion market is rated as a relevant bottleneck/ gate with respect to an international and global recognized fashion brand perception and brand awareness respectively. In this context, global brands have originally been perceived with a higher quality and prestige in relation to local and regional brands. But still, some local brands are able to prompt the consumer in a given region to choose them over global brands. However, given the phenomenon that consumer still prefer local brands in a given region as opposed to strong global brands, the research draws on hypothetical constructs related to consumer perception. As a matter of fact, German fashion culture and consumer behaviour is different to European or Chinese culture and behaviour, which is challenging for a national or international brand to enter the German market. Given the objective of a strong fashion brand positioning, it is imperative for both national and international fashion suppliers to understand the specifics of consumer behaviour regarding the perceived localness of fashion brands. The brand Adidas is leveraging their digital driven “speedfactory” in Germany to address the apparent trend of consumers individualisation and desire “ondemand”. Having said that the brand Adidas operates globally, it originated in Germany and its current brand design and innovative high-tech manufactures are created in Germany also. From a brands supplier perspective, the questions arise whether the consumer perceive such a brand as a local or global one; what the consumers associations with a local brand are and in particular what the motivation of the consumer is to purchase a local fashion brand. The author revealed this research gap with respect to the perception of local fashion brands in the Fashion Market in Germany. Findings reveal higher perceived quality of a local fashion brand, as having a strong positive impact on the consumers’ attitudes towards local fashion brands. The perceived high-quality is attributed to the affiliation of the consumer to the origin of a local fashion brand, while the origin of a local fashion brand is assigned to the country a specific region or city, or even to the designer and/ or creator of a fashion brand. Accordingly, this research contributes to knowledge and academic dialogue regarding Country-of-Origin and Brand-of-Origin effect. In preparing the work, Jörg Igelbrink was able to draw on his extensive wealth of knowledge, which he acquired in over fifteen years of professional experience as marketing manager at Adidas, brand consultant and entrepreneur in the German Fashion Market. The work gives new and highly valuable insights significant for national German fashion brands but especially international European or Chinese fashion brands facing

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Preface by the Editor

to enter the German market. They gain knowledge of the challenging creation of a clear and efficient local brand positioning in the German fashion market. Methodically Jörg Igelbrink convinces by a future-oriented mixed-method Design. Based on an outstanding sequential-explorative qualitative analysis, Jörg Igelbrink follows the digital requirements of his practice-driven topic in his quantitative research design. For the first time, he uses text mining and social media analytics as quantitative research methods with the use of IBM Watson for Social Media Analytics (WASM), with which he achieves excellent results. As a result, this study not only provides its highly valuable contribution by a new individualised and valid mixed-method research approach, but also it is illustrated by the new developed individualized social media model and its application within the quantitative data collection and data analysis. In focus of relevant insights this study provides the guiding model and new theory of local brand attitude consumer typology; its outcome is a fundamental approach for researchers and practitioners. (Prof. Dr. Klaus-Peter Schoeneberg)

Abstract The present study provides a comprehensive explanation approach to the revealed phenomenon of why local fashion brands (LFB) prompt the consumer to reliably choose them over global brands in a German cultural context. Suppliers and retailers, as a part of the value-added chain, are facing a German fashion market that has reached saturation and, considering global (supply-chain) processes in many segments of the fashion industry, competition is intensifying. Given this dynamic market situation, the brand remains an important marketing instrument. The present research identifies guiding principles regarding the consumer perception of brand localness which invokes the research field of consumer behaviour and particular consumer attitude. Consequently, this study is driven by the following research question: What is the impact of Perceived Fashion Brand Localness (PFBL) on consumers’ brand association and attitudes? Based on fundamental insights of four expert interviews and seventeen qualitative consumer interviews, further insights are revealed via qualitative content data analysis. Text mining and Social Media Analytics are used to gain supplementary insights based on the social media data aggregation from 30,233 user mentions. Thus, the research model design is based on an explorative, sequential Mixed Method Design. Results reveal that the consumers’ involvement, education level, value orientation, and his gender influence consumers’ perception of a local fashion brand. Additionally, findings provide the disclosure of a comprehensive structure equation model of eighteen empirically revealed attitude LFB-attribute coherences, while six direct impacts on the consumers LFB attitude can be confirmed: quality, attractiveness, design, identity, sustainability and reputation. In this context the perceived premiumquality has a significant positive impact on consumers LFB attitude. Based on these results, findings conclusively identify a new PFBL-typology presenting a guiding model of four positive LFB-consumer-attitude-types explaining the consumer´s LFB preference: Traditional Guardians, Modern Intellectuals, Realign Performance Advocates and Realign Personality Groupies. Particularly, findings reveal the LFBRealign-consumer type with an influential character in social media regarding his/her willingness to recommend and advocate for a LFB, triggered by the perception of LFB premium quality and/ or brands identity. Accordingly, this research provides contributions to the theoretical academic field of consumer attitude research. It also contributes to the academic dialogue regarding Country-of-Origin and Culture-of-Brand-of Origin effect and discovers the consumer´s strong affective affiliation to the LFB´s origin influencing the LFB brand perception. Conclusively, it makes its contribution to the research field of fashion influencers in the context of social media regarding their positive attitude towards LFB.

Table of Contents 1. Introduction .................................................................................................................. 1 1.1 Problem Statement............................................................................................... 1 1.2 Research Objective .............................................................................................. 6 1.3 Course of the Investigation .................................................................................. 7 1.4 Conclusion: Introduction....................................................................................... 9 2. Literature Review ....................................................................................................... 11 2.1 Theoretical Reference Frame ............................................................................ 11 2.1.1 Neo Behaviourism Theory ....................................................................... 12 2.1.2 Dissonance Theory .................................................................................. 16 2.1.3 Semantic Network Theory ....................................................................... 19 2.1.4 Consumer Culture Theory ....................................................................... 20 2.2 State of Research ............................................................................................... 20 2.2.1 Fashion Marketing ................................................................................... 22 2.2.1.1 Fashion Marketing due to Consumer Behaviour Perspective ................................................................................ 24 2.2.1.2 Fashion Marketing in terms of Supply-Based Perspective...... 31 2.2.1.3 Fashion Marketing due to Lifestyle Segmentation................... 36 2.2.2 Brand Perception ..................................................................................... 37 2.2.2.1 Brand Perception due to Coverage .......................................... 37 2.2.2.2 Brand Perception due to Origin................................................. 46 2.2.2.3 Brand Perception due to National and Individual Effects ........ 49 2.2.3 Social Media............................................................................................. 53 2.2.3.1 Fashion Influencer in the Context of Social Media .................. 53 2.2.3.2 Fashion User Content Sources in the Context of Social Media.......................................................................................... 56 2.2.3.3 Controlling in the Context of Social Media ............................... 58 2.3 Conclusion: Literature Review ........................................................................... 60 3. Empirical Research and Method Approach.............................................................. 67 3.1 Development of Research Objective and Research Questions....................... 67 3.2 Research Methodology ...................................................................................... 69 3.3 Research Approach ............................................................................................ 75 3.3.1 Research Method Design ........................................................................ 76 3.3.1.1 Basis Structure of Sequential Exploratory Mixed-Method Design ........................................................................................ 76 3.3.1.2 Phases of Sequential Explorative Mixed-Method Design........ 80 3.3.2 Qualitative Exploratory Pre-Investigation ............................................... 86 3.3.3 Qualitative Main Study............................................................................. 88 3.3.3.1 Quality Criteria of Study ............................................................ 88 3.3.3.2 Method of Analysis .................................................................... 90

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Table of Contents

3.3.3.2.1 Content-Structured Guided Interviews ......................... 90 3.3.3.2.2 Process of Qualitative Content Data Analysis ............. 95 3.3.3.3 Purposive Sample Selection ................................................... 101 3.3.3.3.1 Basic Consideration and Foundation of Sample ....... 101 3.3.3.3.2 Sinus Milieus................................................................ 102 3.3.3.3.3 Fashion Involvement ................................................... 106 3.3.3.3.4 Recruitment of Respondents ...................................... 109 3.3.3.3.5 Final Sample Description ............................................ 114 3.3.3.4 Data Collection......................................................................... 117 3.3.3.5 Structure and Development of Categories ............................. 121 3.3.4 Quantitative Study.................................................................................. 124 3.3.4.1 Research Approach of Social Media Analytics ...................... 124 3.3.4.2 Refinement of Research Questions........................................ 127 3.3.4.3 Quantitative Sample Selection ................................................ 131 3.3.4.3.1 Framework due to Quantitative Sample Selection .... 131 3.3.4.3.2 Quantitative Sample Selection due to Social Media Analytics ........................................................... 132 3.3.4.4 Method of Analysis due to Text Mining Process .................... 134 3.3.4.5 Model Configuration due to Social Media Analytics .............. 136 3.3.4.6 Data Collection......................................................................... 138 3.4 Antecedents of Different German Fashion Design Interpretation .................. 144 3.5 Conclusion: Research Method Approach........................................................ 151 4. Presentation of Results ........................................................................................... 153 4.1 Insights of Qualitative Pre-Investigation .......................................................... 153 4.2 Insights of Qualitative Data Analysis ............................................................... 156 4.2.1 Education Level as an Impact on the Research Question................... 156 4.2.2 Fashion Involvement as an Impact on the Research Question........... 164 4.2.3 Associations towards Local Fashion Brands........................................ 169 4.2.4 Determination of Local Fashion Brands ............................................... 174 4.2.5 Basic Attitude towards Local Fashion Brands...................................... 192 4.2.6 Purchase Motivation towards Local Fashion Brands ........................... 195 4.2.7 Attitude towards Local Fashion Brands ................................................ 215 4.2.7.1 Framework due to Relevant Characteristics .......................... 215 4.2.7.2 Attitude Attributes of Local Fashion Brands ........................... 224 4.2.8 Perception Bias towards Local Fashion Brands................................... 234 4.2.8.1 Bias due to Perceived Fashion Brand Signals and Symbols.................................................................................... 234 4.2.8.2 Bias due to Different Cognitions about a Local Fashion Brand.......................................................................... 235 4.2.9 Interim Results of Qualitative Data Analysis ........................................ 238

Table of Contents

XIII

4.3 Insights of Quantitative Data Analysis............................................................. 246 4.3.1 Insights due to Refined Research Question of Quantitative Analysis .................................................................................................. 246 4.3.1.1 Supplement Research Questions of Social Media Analysis .................................................................................... 246 4.3.1.2 Preconditions of Quantitative Social Media Analysis............. 247 4.3.1.3 Analysis and Insights of Realign Consumers’ Frequency Distribution of Gender and Sentiments .................................. 250 4.3.1.4 Analysis and Insights of Realign Users’ Intention of Recommendation..................................................................... 258 4.3.1.5 Analysis and Insights of Realign Users' Willingness to Pay a Price Premium........................................................... 263 4.3.1.6 Analysis and Insights of Realign Users’ Affiliation towards a Specific Local Fashion Brand Segment ................ 264 4.3.2 Interim Results of Quantitative Analysis ............................................... 267 4.4 Consolidation of Results and Theory Derivation Due to PFBL ...................... 269 4.4.1 Overall Research Question on a Meta Level........................................ 269 4.4.2 Characteristics of Local Fashion Brands and Revealed Associations ........................................................................................... 270 4.4.3 Impact of PFBL on Consumers’ LFB Association and Attitude ........... 273 4.4.3.1 Influence due to Consumers' Education Level....................... 273 4.4.3.2 Influence due to Consumers' Value Orientation .................... 274 4.4.3.3 Influence due to Consumers’ Fashion Involvement............... 275 4.4.3.4 The Impact of German Fashion Culture ................................. 275 4.4.3.5 Influence Due to Consumers’ Gender .................................... 276 4.4.3.6 Influence of Attributes on Consumers’ LFB Attitude.............. 277 4.4.4 Explanation Theory based on Consumers’ LFB Purchase Motivation ............................................................................................... 278 4.5 Discussion of Results ....................................................................................... 284 4.5.1 Fashion Marketing regarding Consumer Behaviour ............................ 285 4.5.2 Brand Perception and Perceived Brand Localness (PBL)................... 286 4.5.3 Social Media with regard to Fashion Influencers ................................. 287 4.6 Conclusion: Presentation of Results................................................................ 288 5. Conclusion................................................................................................................ 289 5.1 Summary of Chapters ...................................................................................... 289 5.2 Contribution to Theory and Practice ................................................................ 290 5.3 Critical Appraisal and Opportunities for Further Research............................. 295 5.4 Implication for Theory and Practice ................................................................. 297 List of References ........................................................................................................ 299

List of Tables Table 1:

Outline of Literature Review....................................................................... 11

Table 2:

Literature Overview Brand Perception due to Coverage.......................... 46

Table 3:

Literature Overview Brand Perception due to Origin................................ 49

Table 4:

Relevant Insights due to Literature Review of Fashion Marketing .......... 61

Table 5:

Relevant Insights due to Literature Review of Brand Perception ............ 64

Table 6:

Relevant Insights due to Literature Review of Social Media.................... 66

Table 7:

Overview of Nuanced Research Objectives and Research Questions ... 69

Table 8:

Outline of Research Structure.................................................................... 75

Table 9:

Types of Designs by Four Criteria ............................................................. 77

Table 10:

Quality Criteria respecting Qualitative Research Approach ..................... 88

Table 11:

Main Category System ............................................................................... 97

Table 12:

Respondents Classification respecting Value Orientation ..................... 104

Table 13:

Number and Percentage of Sample due to Sinus Milieus...................... 105

Table 14:

Number and Percentage of Sample due to Education Level ................. 106

Table 15:

Final Sample Selection Qualitative Study High-Education Level........... 115

Table 16:

Final Sample Selection Qualitative Study Mid-Education Level ............ 115

Table 17:

Final Sample Selection Qualitative Study Low-Education Level ........... 116

Table 18:

Document Variables referring to High-Education Level ......................... 119

Table 19:

Number of Codings referring to High-Education Level........................... 119

Table 20:

Basic Category Framework of Perceived Brand Localness................... 121

Table 21:

Development and Definition of Categories.............................................. 123

Table 22:

Basic Results Cluster of Positive-Attitude-Groups ................................. 126

Table 23:

Research Question Gender due to Quantitative Study .......................... 130

Table 24:

Research Question Support or Advocacy for Quantitative Study .......... 130

Table 25:

Research Question Premium Price due to Quantitative Study .............. 130

Table 26:

Research Question Market Segment due to Quantitative Study ........... 131

Table 27:

Framework due to Sample Selection of Quantitative Study................... 132

Table 28:

Quantitative Sample Selection................................................................. 133

Table 29:

Local Fashion Brands due to Womenswear and Price Segment .......... 140

Table 30:

Local Fashion Brands due to Menswear and Price Segment ................ 140

Table 31:

Local Fashion Brands due to Fashion Specialists and Price Segment . 140

Table 32:

Fashion Trend Input Womenswear and Specialist F/W 2017................ 141

Table 33:

Fashion Trend Input Menswear and Specialist F/W 2017 ..................... 141

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List of Tables

Table 34:

Empirical Research Process.................................................................... 152

Table 35:

Document Variables of High-Education Respondents ........................... 157

Table 36:

Document Variables of Low-/Mid-Education Respondents.................... 158

Table 37:

Qualitative Analysis with Reference to Leading Categories .................. 160

Table 38:

Qualitative Analysis with Reference to Supplement Categories............ 161

Table 39:

Fashion Trend Assignment due to Realign Respondents...................... 168

Table 40:

Analysis and Discovery of Local Fashion Brands................................... 178

Table 41:

Determination of Local Fashion Brands in a Narrow Sense .................. 180

Table 42:

Local Fashion Brand Segment A1 ........................................................... 187

Table 43:

Local Fashion Brand Segment A2 ........................................................... 187

Table 44:

Local Fashion Brand Segment A3 ........................................................... 188

Table 45:

Local Fashion Brand Segment A4 ........................................................... 188

Table 46:

Non-Local Fashion Brand Segment B ..................................................... 189

Table 47:

Non-Local Fashion Brand Segment C..................................................... 189

Table 48:

Non-Local Fashion Brand Segment D..................................................... 190

Table 49:

Basic Attitude towards Local Fashion Brands......................................... 194

Table 50:

Local Fashion Brand Value and Benefit of High-Education Respondents............................................................................................. 200

Table 51:

Local Fashion Brand Value and Benefit of Low-/Mid-Education Respondents............................................................................................. 204

Table 52:

Focus of Local Fashion Brand Functional and Symbolic Value due to Positive Local Fashion Brand Attitude Groups ....................................... 206

Table 53:

Basic Results due to Positive Local Fashion Brand Attitude Cluster .... 208

Table 54:

Explored Local Fashion Brand Characteristics ....................................... 219

Table 55:

Interim Results to Research Question One due to Qualitative Analysis ..................................................................................................... 241

Table 56:

Interim Results to Research Question Two due to Qualitative Analysis ..................................................................................................... 242

Table 57:

Interim Results to Research Question Three due to Qualitative Analysis ..................................................................................................... 243

Table 58:

Interim Results to Research Question Four due to Qualitative Analysis ..................................................................................................... 245

Table 59:

Interim Results to Research Question Five due to Qualitative Analysis ..................................................................................................... 246

Table 60:

Cross Tabulation/ Frequency (fi) of Local Fashion Brand Mentions...... 255

Table 61:

Cross Tabulation/ Frequency (fi) of Local Fashion Brand Mentions without Consideration of Unassigned Mentions...................................... 256

List of Tables

XVII

Table 62:

Cross Tabulation/ Expected Frequency (fe) of Local Fashion Brand Mentions.................................................................................................... 257

Table 63:

Absolute Frequency (fi), Expected Frequency (fe) and Residues ......... 257

Table 64:

Distribution of Mentions due to Local Fashion Brand Characteristics ... 261

Table 65:

Cross Tabulation/ Frequency (fi) respecting Sentiment and Segment.. 266

Table 66:

Results to Research Questions due to Quantitative Analysis................ 268

Table 67:

Level of Purchase Intention due to Positive Local Fashion Brand Attitude Groups......................................................................................... 278

Table 68:

Explanation Theory One Traditional Guardians...................................... 280

Table 69:

Explanation Theory Two Modern Intellectuals ........................................ 281

Table 70:

Explanation Theory Three Realign Performance Advocates ................. 283

Table 71:

Explanation Theory Four Realign Personality Groupies ........................ 284

List of Figures Figure 1: Course of the Investigation .......................................................................... 7 Figure 2: Reference Frame S-O-R Model Basic Principle ....................................... 13 Figure 3: Causes of Cognitive Dissonance Arising .................................................. 18 Figure 4: Sequential Exploratory Design .................................................................. 78 Figure 5: Mixed Method and Model Design .............................................................. 80 Figure 6: Application and Process of Empirical Research Methods........................ 82 Figure 7: Expert Interview Partners........................................................................... 87 Figure 8: Process of Local Fashion Brand Choice due to SOR Model ................... 91 Figure 9: Process of Content-Structured Qualitative Data Analysis........................ 96 Figure 10: System of Categories and Codings ........................................................... 99 Figure 11: Summary Grid Matrix First Association of Local Fashion Brands ......... 100 Figure 12: Allocation of Respondents to Social Classes in Germany ..................... 103 Figure 13: Recruitment Process Phase due to High-Education Level .................... 111 Figure 14: Recruitment Process Phase due to Low-/Mid-Education Level ............. 113 Figure 15: Cluster of Positive-Attitude-Groups due to Local Fashion Brands ........ 125 Figure 16: Process of Text Mining............................................................................. 135 Figure 17: Developed Social Media Analytics Model ............................................... 137 Figure 18: Hugo BOSS Vest Gustl ............................................................................ 150 Figure 19: HUGO Menswear F/W 2011...................................................................... 150 Figure 20: Number of Codings and Duration of Respondents’ Interview ................ 159 Figure 21: Structure of Categories due to High-Educated Respondents ................ 162 Figure 22: Analysis of First Associations towards Local Fashion Brands ............... 169 Figure 23: Semantic Associative Network towards Local Fashion Brands ............. 170 Figure 24: Determination of Local Fashion Brands Across all Segments ............... 176 Figure 25: Local Fashion Brand Segments in a Narrow and Broader Sense ......... 186 Figure 26: Local Fashion Brand Segments in a Higher-Level Coverage Context .. 191 Figure 27: Positive Local Fashion Brand-Attitude-Groups due to EducationLevel .......................................................................................................... 195 Figure 28: Final Positive Local Fashion Brand Attitude Cluster............................... 211 Figure 29: Distinguished Category Characteristics of LFB´ ..................................... 219 Figure 30: Allocation of Codings due to Affiliation to Origin/ Level of Coverage .... 222 Figure 31: Grid Table presenting Characteristics of Realign Respondents ............ 223

XX

List of Figures

Figure 32: Model Illustration of Local Fashion Brand Attitude Attribute Coherences............................................................................................... 226 Figure 33: Share of Voice Trend due to LFB Mentions January – March 2017...... 248 Figure 34: Share of Voice Trend due to LFB Mentions 01st – 31st January 2017. 249 Figure 35: Positive Statement Local Fashion Brand at Fashion-Blog Journelles... 250 Figure 36: Sentiment Analysis due to the Topic Local Fashion Brand Perception. 251 Figure 37: Sentiment Analysis due to Local Fashion Brand Negative Mentions .... 252 Figure 38: Source Analysis of Local Fashion Brands due to Negative Mentions ... 253 Figure 39: Demographic Analysis of Local Fashion Brands due to Negative Mentions.................................................................................................... 254 Figure 40: Themes Analysis of Local Fashion Brand Quality Positive Mentions.... 259 Figure 41: Themes Analysis of Local Fashion Brand Quality Positive Mentions and Recommendations ............................................................................ 262 Figure 42: Themes Analysis of Local Fashion Brand Quality Positive Mentions and Repurchase ....................................................................................... 263 Figure 43: Themes Analysis of Local Fashion Brand Personality Positive Mentions.................................................................................................... 264 Figure 44: Positive Sentiments respecting Fashion Segments ............................... 266 Figure 45: Typology due to Perceived Fashion Brand Localness Positive Consumers Attitude .................................................................................. 279

List of Abbreviations B.

Respondent

BOO

Brand of Origin

BTE

Bundesverband des Textileinzelhandels

COO

Country of Origin

DMI

Deutsches Mode Institut

e.g.

exempli gratia (Latin for ´and others´)

et al.

et allii/ et aliae/ et alia (Latin for ´and so on´)

etc.

et cetera

EU

European Union

f(i)

absolute frequency

f(e)

expected frequency

F/W

fall/ winter season

HAW

Hochschule für Angewandte Wissenschaften

ID

Identification

i.e.

id est (Latin for ´that is´)

I

Interviewer

LFB

Local Fashion Brand

min.

minutes

mio.

million(s)

No.

Number

p.

page

pp.

pages

PFBL

Perceived Fashion Brand Localness

S/S

spring/ summer season

UWS

University of the West of Scotland

Vol.

Volume

WASM

Watson for Social Media Analytics

1.

Introduction

1.1 Problem Statement Suppliers and retailers as a part of the value-added chain are located in a German fashion market that has reached saturation. This market is determined primarily by a trend of increasing concentration (BTE, 2015, p. 54; Ahlert et al., 2006, p. 1). In many segments, the intensity of competing offers is growing. This and the use of global production capacity drive an enormous range of fashion goods into the German fashion market, which is increasingly dominated by discerning consumers and their multioptional and hybrid consumer behaviour (Diller, 2003, p. 248). Thus, changes in the global economy and changes in the local area of the German fashion market follow German fashion consumers, who “have become more demanding, more discerning and notably less predictable” (The Business of Fashion and McKinsey&Company, 2016, p. 11). In this context Meffert, Burmann and Kirchgeorg (2012) convey the essence of the concept of the market from the consumer’s point of view. They point out that it is only the consumer himself who chooses and finally buys the product that he associates with the highest degree of satisfaction. Accordingly, it is the output market that reflects a bottleneck factor. This would imply that all suppliers offering their product range in the field of fashion should have a strong market view, in order to gain new customers as well as keep loyal customers. A marketing based approach is therefore conceived as a “concept to cope with a bottleneck situation“ (Nieschlag et al., 2002, p. 4) as well as a philosophy of leadership (Meffert et al., 2012, p. 6). Consumer behaviour, then, is the core area of research when it comes to the science of marketing (Bettmann et al., 1998, p. 187; Zerres & Zerres, 2006, p. 1).1 Not least as a consequence of an increasing perception of functional and technical product attributes as interchangeable (Windbergs, 2007, p. 71), as well as the increasing importance of a perceived emotional product added value, which the consumer might experience in the form of aesthetic and symbolic product attributes that satisfy their needs (Zerres & Zerres, 2006, p. 64). In the course of this development the brand has become an important asset and company value driver (Sattler & Völckner, 2007, p. 23), providing a solution for differentiating a company from its competitors, particularly in the field of fashion (Sälzer, 2004, p. 2042). Unlike the products they represent, brands are not defined purely by their nature as the product of their usefulness. Brands are able to gain a high degree of visibility as well as a positive consumer attitude. Furthermore, a strong bonding force between the consumer and the brand generates brand equity (Raj, 1985, p. 53f; Kim & Chung, 1997, p. 362). Thus, the construct of the strength of a brand as a driver of brand success has been established by the relevant academic marketing

1

The use of the scholarly disciplines of economics, sociology and psychology to explain customers behaviour in relation to decision making and fashion leads to an interdisciplinary approach to marketing.

© Springer Fachmedien Wiesbaden GmbH, part of Springer Nature 2020 J. Igelbrink, Perceived Brand Localness, Business Analytics, https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-658-28767-2_1

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1. Introduction

literature. It is one of the most important preconditions for building up economic brand value (Homburg, 2012, p. 632f; Meffert et al., 2012, p. 357). Meffert, Burmann and Kirchgeorg (2012) emphasise the fact that a competitive advantage (Meffert, et al., 2010, p. 270)2 could be built by a strong brand (Backhaus & Voeth, 2007, p. 15; Porter, 1992, p. 21f). Within the context of an identity-driven brand management concept, Meffert, Burmann and Kirchgeorg indicate that the brand strength is an indicator of how intensely consumer as well as employee behaviour is affected by this construct. Disregarding the performance of the product, which has the effect of creating perceived functional benefit, unquestionably these brands are able to provide an additional symbolic benefit. In the end, it might be possible to satisfy consumer needs that relate to social psychological motives, particularly those motives arising in consumer behaviour relative to fashion brands (Meffert et al., 2012, p. 364).3 Indicators like perceived brand quality as well as perceived brand uniqueness4 are the focus of measuring procedures used to benefit a brand. Besides procedures that focus on preferences and acknowledgement measurement methods, this special kind of measurement method can be used to measure brand strength (Walser, 2004, p. 80f). Thus, brand success has its origin in brand perception. The individual consumer benefit of a brand or brand value for the consumer, which is attributed to rational and emotional consumer associations, affects the relevance of a brand’s purchase behaviour (Meffert & Koers, 2005, p. 279). The image of a brand is conceived as a multidimensional construct of attitude (Foscht & Swoboda, 2011, p. 126; Trommsdorff, 2003, p. 150; Kroeber-Riel & Weinberg, 2003, p. 168f), representing a firmly established compressed and evaluated idea of a brand located in the consciousness of the relevant target groups (Caspar & Burmann, 2005, p. 249). Purchase behavioural research has shown that, in the context of marketing, the construct of perception refers to the absorption and interpretation of all perceived information about a brand. As a result of individual perception and decoding of all the signals sent by a brand, in the context of this research, brand image is understood as all associations linked to brands (Meffert, 2000, p. 118; Biel, 1992, p. 8). These associations of brand image lead to positive or negative overall brand attitude (Kroeber-Riel et al., 2009, p. 210; Kroeber-Riel & Weinberg, 1999, p. 275f) which, unlike brand image, is defined as more or less fixed consumer predisposition toward a given brand (Smith & Swinyard, 1983; Eagly & Chaiken, 1993). Attitudes toward local brands represent a key concept of this investigation, as many researchers have found that attitudes are central for predicting purchasing behaviour (Kroeber-Riel et al., 2009, 2

3 4

Consequently, a competitive advantage is only achieved by considering the supplier’s performance. The latter need to be relevant, noticeable for consumers as well as stable and efficient with respect to competitors. Referring to Farquhar (1989), who defines the strength of a brand as perceived benefit advantage compared to a pure product performance, which satisfies the same basic needs. If a brand is able to gain such a high level of uniqueness, then one can assume that it is capable of attaining a price premium and a sales volume bonus respectively (Aaker, 1997).

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3

p. 268) and play a key role in determining consumer purchase decisions (Ajzen & Fishbein, 1973, p. 42ff). An increasing splintering of target consumers in the German fashion market leading to smaller market segments, a tendency toward a shortened product lifecycle in fashion products, and especially an increasing number of foreign fashion companies with an international marketing strategy have caused an enormous rise in the number of brands entering the local fashion market (Wenske, 2008, p. 2). Given this development, it makes it difficult for suppliers as well as retailers to differentiate between competing offers, which in turn makes it difficult for them to build up a competitive advantage. As a result of the increasing product uniformity in competing fashion brands, which is accompanied by the similarity of the fashion retailers’ range and for the most part global brand shop concepts (Reinhold, 2011, p. 42ff; Ahlert et al., 2006, p. 1), consumers do not perceive the desired effect of differentiation, much less the particularity and individuality of a given fashion product (Probe, 2009, p. 55). In this context, consumers are more likely to pursue differentiation as the expression of a desire for social meaning (Baudrillard & Poster, 1988, p. 45). They are attracted by brands because the latter seems to be an important reference value for the consumer’s personal identity as well as his personal image (Aaker, 1997, p. 349). Particularly in the fashion market, a perceived personal uniqueness is a core need for the self-concept of consumers (Vignoles et al., 2000, p. 339f). A fashion brand is used by the consumer to present his individual personality but also to represent an affiliation with a social group – in order to feel and express his personal uniqueness (Nerdinger & Rosenstiel, 1999, p. 101; Snyder & Fromkin, 1980, p. 400). Within the context of the brand identity concept, there remain two research directions, which are strongly interlocked. Investigations referring to the geographical origin of a brand refer to the country-of-origin effect, which has a high status in marketing research (Roth & Diamantolpoulos, 2009, p. 726; Ahmed & d’Astous, 2008, p. 76; Papadopoulos & Heslop, 2003, p. 402); investigations on brand reach and coverage examine identity-image effects. Therefore, you can use the origin of a brand as well as brand coverage as a brand signal within your brand identity concept, which affects the perception of the consumer, who forms the image of a brand. The construct of the perceived coverage of a brand by the consumer, within the field of research of the impact of perceived brand coverage on the image of a brand and attitude respectively, is understood as the perceived geographical distribution of a brand, taking into account the dichotomous aspects of local as well as global brands (Meffert et al., 2010, p. 93). A local brand, from a supplier’s point of view, makes its mark inside a country and in a restricted area within a country or for a particular target group (Schuiling & Kapferer, 2004, p. 89; Kirchgeorg, 2002, p. 379; Bruhn, 1994, p. 26; Weinberg, 1992, p. 2682).

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Consequently, a core question of this research is: What´s the impact of perceived brand localness on consumer brand association in the German fashion market? Whether the consumer perceives a brand as local or as global is not without effect. And this effect is only partly due to the real level of distribution of a brand. The construct of Perceived Brand Globalness (PBG) is originally attributed to Steenkamp, Batra and Alden (2003). For example, the Swedish brand H&M is regarded as a global brand although it is distributed to only 44 countries, whereas the German fashion brand Seidensticker, originating in 1919 in Bielefeld Ostwestfalen, is considered a local brand, although it is distributed to 80 countries worldwide. Therefore the perceived coverage of a brand along with the perceived origin of a brand can be conceived as an element of brand leadership that should be shaped in a focused way (Meffert et al., 2012, p. 93). Thus, perceived brand globalness seems to be achieved primarily through market-penetrating global symbols – for example brand name and brand logo – in marketing communications as well as in consumers’ perception of a ubiquitous international distribution of the brand (Swoboda et al., 2010, p. 74); whereas local brand perception is more likely to be gained by creating local symbols that reference the particular local culture and reinforce the consumers’ belief that the brand is at least fairly exclusive to them. Not least, as a tendency of the last years, companies have been pushing forward with international brand development. With a focus on economy of scale effects and cost efficiency those companies are restructuring their brand portfolio by concentrating on global brands and even reducing, in this process, the number of local brands (Schuiling & Kapferer, 2004, p. 100f). Consequently, researchers like Steenkamp, Batra and Alden (2003), Holt, Quelch and Taylor (2004), Hsieh (2004), Dimofte et al. (2008) and Exler (2008) have long observed an increasing consumer preference for global brands, particularly due to the fact that the degree of perceived brand globalness positively influences purchase likelihood through perceived quality and prestige (Steenkamp et al., 2003, p. 80). Whereas some researchers found that global brands have an advantage when it comes to functional components and that perceived brand globalness prompts a functional and cognitive response (Exler, 2008; Holt et al., 2004), Dimofte et al. (2008) identified a symbolic advantage of brand benefit, which is understood to elicit a psychological and affective response (Swoboda et al., 2010, p. 73). Even though still, some local brands are able to prompt the consumer in a given region to reliably choose them over global brands. The local brands then take the opportunity to build their market position over the long term as a strong local brand. Consequently, a number of researchers (Schuiling & Kapferer, 2004; Alden, Steenkamp and Batra, 1999) find consumer bias for local brands based on perceived associations, especially of down-to-earthness, trustworthiness, monetary value, unique perceived value and cultural resonance. Even some investigations such as that of Nikula (2013) couldn´t find a significant difference in prestige between perceived brand globalness and perceived brand localness.

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5

The recent past seems to show that companies are able to build competitive advantage by positioning their local brands according to their brand portfolio and in accordance with their multinational marketing strategy (Zentes et al., 2010, p. 60f; Meffert et al., 2010). This is partly due to improvements in local fashion companies in terms of social and ecological production as well as product quality, which refers to the fit, the material and the workmanship of a fashion product, even while these companies are increasingly able to keep prices low for the mid-level market (Wiedeking, 2013, p. 9). Aside from the fact that local brands seem to respond better to local needs, especially concerning the fit of a fashion product as well as a quick response to regional fashion trends, it seems clear that local fashion brands are more flexible in pricing towards the local market than global brands are (Swoboda et al., 2010, p. 74; Schuiling & Kapferer, 2004). In addition, consumers in regional markets are becoming self-confident about products from their local area. This behaviour is obviously complemented by the tendency for consumers to be uncertain about global products produced in Asia. In this context, the advantages of a local strategy - such as greater price flexibility or the prospect of gaining a price premium – stand in contrast to the potential disadvantages of such a strategy, for example the potential for “efficiency downgrading” that results from smaller lot sizes in the production volume (Zentes et al., 2010, p. 58). In this given context the latest fashion product strategy “Speedfactory” of the company Adidas is important to mention. Accomplishing scale effects by outsourcing order volumes to foreign countries in the past, this innovative local fashion production strategy deals with the production of small fashion lot sizes applying the newest technology (3-D production) in Berlin, Germany for the German fashion sales market. The targeted fashion consumer is characterised by a higher interest into fashion and fashion involvement as well as by an influencing role in social media. (The Economist, Jan 2017). The question arises: 1. whether a brand, which is produced locally is perceived as a local fashion brand or a local fashion brand perception is affected by other associations. 2. what’s the impact of perceived fashion brand localness (PFBL) on consumers brand association and brand attitude; which might affect consumer behaviour relevance and even brands preference on a basis of a positive LFB attitude. 3. whether the German fashion consumer intents to purchase a local fashion brand on a basis of a positive attitude towards a local fashion brand, what kind of purchase motivation prompting this behaviour and does it involve a positive consumer attitude typology towards a local fashion brand probably. Viewed in the context of these current challenges, national as well as international, fashion companies need to settle the question of implementing and correct positioning of local brands and the strategic alignment of their brand portfolio. Strategic fashion Marketing decisions like brand name, key visuals or the logo of a brand, influencing brand perception due to the origin of a brand as well as due to the coverage of a brand,

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need to be taken into consideration from the start. Therefore, companies need to better understand consumers’ current attitudes toward their brand. The purpose of this investigation is therefore to analyse consumers’ perception of local brands in the German fashion market, especially the impact of the brands’ perceived localness on consumer brand association. This research directs its results towards foreign as well as domestic fashion companies, both of which are confronted with the strategic alignment of fashion brands and correct brand management within an already existing brand portfolio. 1.2 Research Objective The problem statement identifies the immanent and emerging challenges for companies positioning and leading local brands in the German fashion market successfully. Given the dynamic development of this market, and in accordance with practical marketing research, this research has the purpose of providing national as well as international fashion goods companies with insights into the perception and therefore the attitudes of consumers in the German fashion market towards local brands. This entails gaining a deep understanding of how these local brands are perceived by German consumers; of which marketing instruments are continually relevant, particularly due to a successful brand positioning; and of the mechanics of consumers’ purchasing behaviour and final purchase decisions. Based on the research findings concerning consumer attitudes, which are an essential influencing factor of consumers’ behaviour, the objective is to discover how local fashion brands are perceived by the consumer, in what way this perception influences a consumers’ local brands attitude and finally, to identify guiding principles directed toward fashion companies with and without an existing brand architecture for a successful local brand positioning in the German fashion market. The following research questions need to be considered and clarified:  By reference to which characteristic features do consumers perceive a local brand? What characteristics are attributed to consumer perception of a local brand?  What is the impact of perceived brand localness (PBL) on consumers’ brand associations?  Which of these brand associations are relevant for determining brand attitude and consequently consumer purchase decisions? In particular, do associations like “uniqueness”, related to a perceived and rated distinguishing level of a fashion brand’s attributes, have any relevance for fashion brand choice preference?  How do the relationships between the perceived brand localness and consumers’ purchase intentions change regarding different consumer and market segments characteristics? As an example, does the association of craftsmanship have the same relevance for a low/mid educational target group as for a high-educational one?

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7

By answering the above-listed research questions a deep and solid understanding of the influencing factors is provided that drive consumer preferences and consumer purchase decisions when it comes to local fashion brands. These research results will help fashion companies to gain a better understanding of different consumer attitudes and to apply correspondingly effective market-based marketing strategies as well as instruments. By looking more closely at the German fashion market, foreign fashion companies with an international and multinational marketing approach as well as domestic local fashion companies with and without an existing brand architecture will gain research information with which to competitively strengthen their market positioning relative to global fashion products. 1.3 Course of the Investigation This research is structured into five main chapters. The selected method design and accurately applied research process is of great importance due to this investigation. The clear focus on the research question demands an accurate and precise determination and application of the research method design and the research process. The figure 1 illustrates the course of the investigation.

Figure 1: Course of the Investigation The first chapter contains a detailed overview of the problem statement providing the disclosure of the phenomenon of this investigation. This chapter indicates which main

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issues should be considered in a discussion of the perception of local brands in the German fashion market. Research questions on a meta-level are revealed. From this, the research objective is derived and clarified. The chapter considers conceptual foundations of this research defining key terms of brand image and with special regard to the behavioural constructs of consumers brand perception, brand association and brand attitude in a cultural German fashion brand context. The second chapter presents a detailed insight into the literature review and state of research. The theoretical reference frame of this work presents key concepts from consumer behaviour theory such as the neo-behaviourism, dissonance theory, semantic network theory and consumer culture theory as they relate to the relevance of this work. Further, it provides relevant specialist academic literature related to fashion marketing in the context of consumer behaviour, brand management as well as to fashion influencer and controlling, both in the context of social media. It describes the relevance of the research objective and conclusively uncovers the research gap in the specific context of a perceived fashion brand localness in the German fashion market. This chapter conveys the importance of the research question clarifying the leading research question in a wider academic literature context. For this very reason, it deals with a detailed literature review embedding the research topic with the wider fashion marketing and brand perception academic literature at the very beginning of this investigation. The third chapter begins with the documentation of the development of the research objective and research question. The advancement of research questions has specific regard to the explorative research approach of this present investigation. Consequently, this chapter provides an elaborate explanation of the scientific foundation and selected sequential explorative method design, which is deepened due to the explanation of the qualitative and subsequent quantitative analysis (Empirical Research). Mentioned scientific foundation refers to the research methodology and philosophical basis of present investigation. It builds the academic basis of the research approach and research method design, which presents the structure and process of the selected sequential explorative mixed- method research design. Thus, Chapter 3 presents the method of analysis, sample selection, data collection and applied survey instruments regarding the first empirical phase related to the qualitative study of expert interviews, the second empirical phase due to the predominant main qualitative investigation and problem-centred consumer interviews, and the third empirical phase with regard to the quantitative study considering text mining and social media analytics of social media user mentions. Finally, it provides the disclosure of the question where different perceptions of German fashion design originate and influence the research method process. It ends with a conclusion to the methodological approach of the present research. Chapter 4 documents the results of data analysis providing insight into operating principle of leveraged analysing software MAXQDA 12 concerning qualitative structure content analysis and WATSON ANALYTICS regarding quantitative social media

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analysis. Consequently, Chapter 4 provides answers to developed research questions and illustrates discovered guiding principles due to PFB regarding a new theory model of the impact of PFBL on consumers’ attitude and a new consumer PFBL typology based on revealed purchased motivations. Finally, it presents the findings and results of the present investigation taking account of relevant academic literature considered in Chapter 2. Chapter 5 provides the summary of chapters, the contribution to knowledge and theory in particular, as well as the critical appraisal of this investigation. The chapter concludes with implications for theory and practice. 1.4 Conclusion: Introduction The introduction chapter reveals the phenomenon of the consumer’s preference when it comes to a local fashion brand in a German cultural and fashion market segment context as opposed to an international or even global fashion brand. The phenomenon that local fashion brands can prompt the consumer to reliably choose them over global fashion brands lead to the key concept of Perceived Fashion Brand Localness (PFBL) of the present investigation. The concept of PBL is theoretically and predominately recognised by Steenkamp et al. (2003), Schuiling & Kapferer (2004) and Stoebe (2013) (Chapter 2.2); the concept of a perceived local brand is presented by mentioned academic literature due to both its dependency on the level of coverage and/or distribution and its dependency on the origin. Thus, it can be assumed that the consumers perception and understanding of a local fashion brand differs due to its level of coverage and origin. Considering the response (R) of the consumer’s behaviour in terms of his final positive LFB purchase decision, which is stimulated (S) by his perception of a local fashion brand, the present investigation researches the inherent organic (O) processes – such as the consumers associations, motivation and attitude towards a local fashion brand. The inherent organic process of the consumer’s fashion involvement seems to influence the brands perception. The S-O-R paradigm and behaviouristic theory lay the foundation as a guiding theoretical principle for the present investigation (Chapter 2.1). Understanding the consumer’s attitude is a significant explanation approach for consumer purchase behaviour in general; accordingly, the present study emphasizes the exploration of the consumer’s brand attitude towards local fashion brands in the light of its evident impact on the consumer’s final purchase decision. Conclusively, the key research question focuses on the impact of perceived fashion brand localness (PFBL) on the consumer’s brand attitude. The introduction of present investigation reveals the importance of providing a comprehensive model theory of perceived-fashion-brand-localness and guiding principles directed toward fashion companies with and without existing brand architecture for a successful local brand positioning in the German Fashion Market. Given the relevance of affective and symbolic aspects of the fashion brand as well as the complexity of consumer

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perception and attitudes towards a local fashion brand, hypothetical constructs can provide relevant additional insight; indirect and moderating effects, such as involvement, the consumers value orientation or education level as well as cultural aspects might influence local fashion brand perception.

2.

Literature Review

This investigation complies with the character of an explorative research with respect to the consumer behaviour in the German fashion market and with respect to prior academic knowledge in the field of brand perception. It draws on specific marketing constructs and concepts such as brand image, brand association and perception due to brand localness. It is therefore appropriate to determine these concepts in the context of the specific characteristics of the German fashion market (Chapter 1) and in the context of the literature review; this is in regard to both relevant theories in terms of a theoretical reference frame (chapter 2.1) and the academic state of research (Chapter 2.2) with regard to the key concept of perceived brand localness in this investigation. Table 1 illustrates mentioned context. Literature Review due to Perceived Fashion Brand Localness 2.1 Theoretical Reference Frame 2.1.1 Neo Behaviourism Theory

2.1.2 Dissonance Theory

2.1.3 Semantic Network Theory

2.1.4 Consumer Culture Theory

2.2 State of Research 2.2.1 Fashion Marketing  Consumer Behaviour Perspective  Supply-based Perspective  Lifestyle Segmentation

Table 1:

2.2.2 Brand Perception  Due to Coverage  Due to Origin  Due to National and Individual Effects

2.2.3 Social Media  Fashion Influencer in the context of Social Media  Controlling in the Context of Social Media

Outline of Literature Review

2.1 Theoretical Reference Frame This chapter serves to develop a theoretical reference frame as a basis for the investigation into the perception of local brands in the German fashion market. According to Creswell et al. (2003b) a sequential exploratory mixed-method design, which is used due to the focussed research question and therefore the basis of this investigation, “may or may not be implemented within a prescribed theoretical perspective“ (Creswell et al., 2003b, p. 180). Thus, mentioned statements reveal that single-stated consumer research approaches and consumer behaviour theories are useful as a guidance and theoretical reference frame for a more precise clarification of the research question of this investigation, including what kind of associations, attitudes and behaviour consumers might experience by Perceived Brand Localness.

© Springer Fachmedien Wiesbaden GmbH, part of Springer Nature 2020 J. Igelbrink, Perceived Brand Localness, Business Analytics, https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-658-28767-2_2

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Additionally, this framework is used with respect to the inductive research approach in order to develop a structural interview guide as a basis for the predominantly and primarily qualitative data analysis (see chapter Empirical Research and Method Approach) and qualitative interviews, respectively. Consequently, the structural interview guide (see appendix) follows the structure and uses hypothetical constructs of the S-O-R model, contains interview parts according to the dissonant cognition of respondents, considers questions due to the first and overall LFB associations due to the semantic network theory and draws on questions regarding the impact of the respondents fashion culture on (purchase) fashion brand behaviour at the beginning of each interview. It draws on theoretical explanatory approaches of consumer theories such as NeoBehaviourism, Cognitive Dissonance, Semantic Network Theory and Consumer Culture Theory (chapter 2.1). The relevance of mentioned theories for this investigation and its leading research question - regarding the impact of Perceived Brand Localness on consumers associations and attitude - will be plausibly explained in each chapter. This investigation derives benefit from the paradigm of theoretical pluralism; Homburg (2000, p. 355) constitutes that subsidiary theories might be useful to analyse complex phenomena in marketing research. Further, this framework is attributed to conceptual consideration with respect to a local brand, brand perception, brand attitude, brand image, brand identity and Country-ofOrigin effect, which are particularly embedded in the first chapter in a German fashion brand context. 2.1.1

Neo Behaviourism Theory

Because the perception of local brands, consumers’ brand association and brand attitude are determined as complex, hypothetical constructs in the field of consumer behaviour, it is necessary to adduce the Neo-behaviouristic Stimulus-OrganismResponse (S-O-R) Theory. S-O-R Theories are considered in order to explain consumer behaviour. Neobehaviouristic explanatory approaches (and in its advancement, cognitive ones) are conceived as real behaviour models because they use inherent variables (KroeberRiel & Gröppel-Klein, 2013, p. 35). Therefore, inherent, not observable processes are explicitly considered. Apart from the impact of the stimulus with respect to the perception of a local fashion brand, it is the interdependent, hypothetical constructs which might account for consumer behaviour control. These constructs are fundamentally divided into activating variables such as involvement, emotions, motives and in particular, attitudes and cognitive variables with respect to learning, reasoning and knowledge (Meffert et al., 2015, p. 98). Cognitive components deal with the reception and processing of information. The interdependency is shown by the fact that for any form of information processing, a

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level of activation is needed. At the same time, any perception or reception of impressions (cognitive variable) prompts a manifestation of emotions (activating variables). Thus, the stimulus of a local fashion brand may be recognized differently by consumers with a higher level of (fashion) involvement than a lower one. On the other hand, the (cognitive) received impressions or signals sent by a local fashion brand might enable consumers’ emotions, such as enthusiasm or motives, such as safety. The following figure shows a generic neo-behaviouristic SOR-Model with respect to a consumer decision as a basic principle. The developed S-O-R Model in this context is presented in figure 8 in chapter 3.3.3 as advancement due to the perception of a local fashion brand.

Figure 2: Reference Frame S-O-R Model Basic Principle (with reference to Foscht & Swoboda, 2011, p. 30)

Neo-behaviouristic models are of great relevance to consumer behaviour research. Thus, those findings are necessarily embedded into the inductive research approach of this investigation. Mentioned constructs regarding activating and affecting variables and relationships given above will be primarily implemented as a reference frame due to the structure of an interview guide related to the collection of data. Moreover, the mentioned theoretical reference framework is used for evaluation of the content structure qualitative data analysis in this investigation. As a result of the consistent development of S-O-R Models, cognitive processes such as “information storage” and information processing are focused (Grunert, 1982, p.

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20). Against this background, the model of Cognitive Networks is emphasized with respect to this investigation. A Cognitive Network gives priority to the complexity of “stored” knowledge and highlights the associative relations and conjunctions of (existing) knowledge (Foscht & Swoboda, 2011, p. 115; Grunert, 1982, p. 44; Wiswede, 1995, p. 93.). Therefore, knowledge is recorded and memorized in smallest semantic elements called propositions, which effect association and coherence of a higher system and schemes, respectively. Accordingly, Anderson states the “smallest units of meaning that assert things about the world that might be reasonably judged true or false” (Anderson, 1980, p. 121). These (semantic) propositions are associated to recall as needed. There are a variety of possible representations of these mentioned propositions by using semantic networks (Anderson, 1978, p. 254; Anderson, 1976); the semantic network theory is noted in chapter 2.1.3. It is not clarified, if mentioned abstract, propositional knowledge is memorized in terms of linguistic or pictorial coding and signals (Kroeber-Riel et al., 2009, p. 230). Concentrating on cognitive aspects might lead to a neglect of emotional and affective impacts and the meaning and relevance of inherent images of a consumer due to consumer behaviour (Kroeber-Riel & Weinberg, 2009, p. 26). Alvensleben (2000, p. 402) underlines the relevance of affective and activating processes such as involvement, emotions, motivation and attitude due to the investigation of the impact of country-of-origin effects on local products, and therefore most likely on local brands. In light of the phenomenological character of this investigation focussing on the why with respect to the consumers’ attitude and behaviour, respecting the perception of brand localness cognitive variables but in particular, affective variables such as involvement, emotions, motives and attitude are key constructs in this research. Thus, cognitive and affective aspects of consumer behaviour are explicitly accounted for with respect to this investigation. In light of the aforementioned Neo-Behaviouristic-Theory, the attitude belongs to the activating processes because this hypothetical construct incorporates emotions and motivation. However, attitudes are characterized by a high level of cognitive content and complexity. Therefore, there is a controversial discussion if the attitude might be clearly assigned to the activating processes (Kroeber-Riel & Weinberg, 2003). Izard (1981) constitutes emotions as inherent states of excitation with subjective cognitive perception (Meffert et al., 2015, p. 112; Izard, 1981). The following emotions specify the inherent emotional stance or basic attitude: (vested) interest, joy, astonishment, misery, anger, honour, contempt, fear, shame, and guilt. The assignments of mentioned constructs are relevant to analyse the gained content information due to the structured qualitative interviews, which is leveraged in the empirical evidence phase in this investigation (chapter 5 – Empirical Research). However, the quality of an emotion such as “vested interest” for a local fashion brand rises due to the (cognitive) interpretation of this physiological arousal. This further

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clarifies that emotions, unlike involvement, are dependent on cognitive processes (Kroeber-Riel et al., 2009, p. 99ff.). Motivation includes emotions, but in addition the goal orientation of a consumer, which refers to a cognitive process unequivocally. Therefore, this activating construct is a latent force which initiates consumer behaviour and leads it in a distinct direction. The core question of motivational research is constituted as “What special reason induces this kind of consumers’ behaviour?”. Subsequently, a motive might be exposed as a perceived deficiency state, implicating its occasion to remove this state. Thus, researchers of consumer behaviour studies treat motives and needs in a similar way (Foscht & Swoboda, 2011, p. 55). In light of this, Babin et al. (1994) and Kim (2006) distinguish between hedonic and utilitarian purchasing motives. Hedonic motives draw on the need for not only individual-fulfilment, pleasure and enjoyment, and cognitive and emotional stimulation, but also on social interaction such as external esteem/validation. On the other hand, “consumers are motivated by utilitarian factors, including efficiency and cost” (O’Brien, 2010, p. 1). Latter motives are attributed to functional, practical (and economical) needs (Stolle, 2012, p. 263f.). In this context, Burmann et al. (2012, p. 61) refer consumers’ needs to the construct of a brand, which consumers might derive benefit from in order to compensate their needs. They differentiate between symbolic benefit for the consumer, which is dividedinto hedonic, social and aesthetic and functional benefits that a brand might leverage. The attitude is one of the most important constructs in the field of consumer behaviour research because it provides a relevant explanatory approach towards consumer purchasing behaviour due to consistent theory. It is constituted as “fairly, stable (pre-) disposition of an individual person or consumer to behave or react towards an object, product or brand in a given situation” respectively (Kroeber-Riel et al., 2009, p. 211f; Trommsdorff, 1998, p. 143; Antonides & van Raaij, 1998, p. 197; Fishbein & Aizen, 1975, p. 6). Petty et al. (1991, p. 242) expose that attitudes are a “global and relatively enduring evaluations of attitude objects, issues or person. These evaluations can be based on behavioural, cognitive, and affective information and experiences, and they are capable of guiding behavioural, cognitive, and affective responses”. Given the advanced research question highlighting the construct of the attitude in terms of what is the impact of perceived fashion brand localness on consumer’s brand association and brand attitude (chapter 1.2 research objectives), it becomes apparent that both cognitive (knowledge about local brands) and affective aspects (purchasing motives towards local fashion brands) need to be considered. Somebody with experience in local grocery brands in the German Market, for example, may assume knowledge about a local brand in general and deriving from that,

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knowledge about a local fashion brand in particular. On the other hand, a person might intend to buy a local fashion brand because of the feeling of a strong affiliation towards the region he/she lives in or feels connected to. Subsequently, a reasonable motive might be to strengthen his/her region. These pre-considerations within this context are used for a differentiation of research objectives and for developing a suitable content-structured interview guide for subsequent qualitative interviews, which are analysed by a distinguished category/ coding system in applied analysing software of MAXQDA. 2.1.2

Dissonance Theory

As shown in the previous chapter, attitudes are constituted as mostly stable, yet generally alterable, constructs. This dynamic is motivated by the inner structure and the relationship between those attitudes. The force of this dynamic (the dynamic of attitude) is affected by the consistency of attitudes and its individual relevance. Given the attitude affecting consumer behaviour and consumer purchase intention, respectively, (fashion) companies marketing and brand communication leverage the attitude’s stability but axiomatic variability by using the local or regional origin of a brand as a kind of Unique Selling Proposition. As an example, the well-known fashion brand Liebeskind Berlin might be perceived as a fashion label coming from a high-end lifestyle city ´Berlin´, although it is stated that its designer and founder come from Warstein, a region in the middle of Germany. Subsequently, the knowledge of the consistency and dynamic processes of the consumers’ attitude is relevant for this investigation. Cognitive Balance Theories postulate that every person feels a need to reduce/ eliminate or even avoid contradiction (dissonance) in his/her individual attitude system. The individual aspires after compensating cognitive conflicts and reaches for psychological consistency. The latter is defined as a balanced conjunction between inner experiences, cognitions, and attitudes without contradictions (Kroeber-Riel et al., 2009, p. 227). Due to the cognitive dissonance theory, Festinger (1962) exposes that a person aims at keeping his cognition in balance. If just two of these cognitions are not in harmony with each other, a kind of psychological discomfort arises (feeling of dissonance), which the person then aspires to eliminate (Festinger, 1962, p. 14). Cognitions denote knowledge, opinions, attitudes or convictions about the environment, of oneself, or of his/her own behaviour (Wiswede, 1995, p. 79; Festinger, 1962, p. 3f.). In this context, Festinger (1962) states the following causes might prompt cognitive dissonance (Festinger, 1962, p. 24): 1. Due to decisions for example buying/ purchase decisions.

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2. Due to a perceived contradiction between one´s behaviour and attitude or conviction. 3. Due to perception of a new information contradictory to existing cognitions. 4. Due to denial social support towards a member of a group. Therefore, cognitive dissonance may arise with respect to purchase decisions (1). In addition, dissonance arises due to a person’s observable behaviour, contrary to his attitude or conviction (2). Moreover, dissonance is excited by new information as opposed to established cognitions (3). Finally, dissonance is aroused by missing social support towards a group member. As an example (case 1), a person’s attitude is characterized by their appraisal and justification to be a social and ecological sustainable responsible person (example 1). This person might argue about his/her behaviour, right after his/her purchase decision buying a global fashion brand, which was obviously produced in Bangladesh. Knowing about the social grievances at Rana Plaza in Bangladesh in 2013, this person might feel a kind of perceived inner contradiction as a result. This is conceived as “Further Purchase Dissonance”. It is important to mention that the knowledge of the dissonant relation between those cognitions solely prompts cognitive dissonance, and accordingly, not the behaviour itself. Subsequently, a “feeling of dissonance” arises when these contradictions in relevant attitude relationships are perceived consciously. Therefore, those contradictions are conceived psychologically and not logically (Kroeber-Riel & Weinberg, 2003, p. 183). In another case (see figure 3, case 2), a person might feel a strong bond/affiliation towards his region or country he/she lives in (example 2). His/her attitude towards this region might be extremely positive. Searching for a new fashion product (suit), this person makes a comparison between a fashion brand he might perceive as a German local fashion brand (Hugo Boss, Eduard Dressler, Herr von Eden) and another one, which he/she might perceive as an Italian fashion brand (Bugatti). The inner conflict in terms of cognitive dissonance may arise because this person tends to buy the Italian suit in contrast to his positive attitude towards a German fashion brand. It is interesting to mention that the fashion brand Bugatti comes from Germany, though this brand might be perceived as an Italian one. This might be caused by the brand name, which could excite Italian associations and lead to bias perception. From a fashion suppliers’ perspective, this special kind of brand strategy (based on consumers bias perception) may lead to success because Italian suits are considered as the measure of all things with respect to the commodity group suit. Apparently, Italian suits prompt an exclusive, modern, elegant association of a suit with valuable craftsmanship.

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The figure 3 shows possible causes of cognitive dissonance incurrence:

Figure 3: Causes of Cognitive Dissonance Arising (with reference to Festinger 1962, p. 261f)

Consumers' aspire to eliminate or even avoid the dissonance (or feeling of dissonance). Thus, Homburg (2012, p. 62f) structure those strategical approaches for lowering or even eliminating cognitive dissonance from a consumer’s point of view: 1. Change of Attitudes 2. Principles to confirm Attitudes According to the first instance, a person lowers or even eliminates dissonance by changing his attitude towards an object or a brand respectively. With respect to the mentioned example of an “social sustainable person” (example 1), this person may lower or even eliminate his/her dissonance by convincing him/herself that big fashion companies, which they perceive as global brands such as adidas, C&A, H&M or KIK, might work ethically because they present a kind of “Sustainable Report”. He/she might consider that his/her purchase decision preferring a global fashion brand will apparently not affect the environment significantly. The second category constitutes not a change of attitude to lower the dissonance but shows principles a dissonant person leverages to gain consistency. a) Selective Perception: pointed/ targeted search for information, which are consonant towards/regarding consumers attitude. Regarding the consumer mentioned above, who has a positive attitude towards German local fashion brands but decided to buy an Italian fashion brand (suit) (example 2), he/she may prospectively focus on

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information in fashion magazines which emphasize the quality of Italian suits, such as its elegant design, precious fabric, or high-quality workmanship. b) Revaluation of dissonant information: The consumer reconsiders and distinguishes his cognitions and attitudes, resulting in feelings of dissonance. c) Circumventing dissonant information: The consumer disregards information which might force his/her inner contradiction and might emphasize feelings of dissonance. Given mentioned “social and ecological sustainable responsible” consumer (example 1), this person might ignore any information about the circumstances taken part at Rana Plaza in 2013. Within this research work, these framing theoretical considerations might be useful for differentiation considering different respondent groups (educational level) due to the developed structure content interview guide and the subsequent qualitative analysis. Another example of a consumer who deeply believes in a solely high-quality approach of a global fashion brand because of its geocentric approach, might change his attitude by convincing himself that local fashion brands might be of high-quality workmanship as well, because local brands focus on the individual fashion product due to minor (production) output after he/she buys a local fashion brand. 2.1.3

Semantic Network Theory

Semantic network theory provides a theoretical framework for pre-consideration of the exploration of networks or associative ramifications of consumers’ local fashion brand associations. Anderson (1983) states that data and information is memorized and recorded by consumers in terms of “networks of nodes”. Thus, the attraction of one node affects activation of associated and connected notes, which has the effect of an association network. Given the research question of the impact of Perceived Fashion Brand Localness (PFBL) on consumers’ brand association, the exploration for various association of the consumer towards local fashion brands should be implemented (as a question and category) into a structural content interview guide respecting the qualitative research approach. In this context, it is imperative to point out that these associations are firmly established in the consumers’ mind and cause the brand image. Meffert (2000, p. 118) and Özsomer & Altaras (2008, p. 10) determine the brand image as the consumer idea and knowledge of a (fashion) brand at a certain point in time, see introduction chapter 1.1.

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Consumer Culture Theory

Due to the context of this investigation, consumer culture is conceived as “a social arrangement in which the relations between lived culture and social resources, and between meaningful ways of life and the symbolic and material resources on which they depend, are mediated through markets” (Arnould, Thompson (2005, p. 869). Holt (2002) critically recognizes that the concept of consumer culture encompasses marketing symbols, such as corporate brand, creating consumers’ desire and his/her positive purchase decision due to market-made commodities as a key factor. He/she focuses on the question of authenticity, which will shift to concentrate on the brand’s contribution as a cultural resource (Holt, 2002, p. 87). The question arises whether a local fashion brand has a closer proximity towards its brand-core, which might create a stronger authenticity due to consumers’ perception. Thus, consumer culture theory illustrates the symbolic impact of brands in today’s consumer society. Individuals benefit from brands’ symbolic meaning concerning their self-concept-definition due to their social identity on the one hand and their self-identity on the other. In addition, consumers capitalise on brands through the brand’s capability to display their self-identity or social identity towards other people (Tsai, 2005). Thus, in this context, brands can represent intrinsic values, such as the individual selfconcept, and extrinsic values, such as status (Fischer, et. al., 2010, p. 826). Fashion brands might especially affect consumer attitude and behavior of sub-cultures such as the skateboard community, or the Dandy Sub-culture. The latter might be attracted by a possible local fashion brand such as the Hamburger fashion label Herr von Eden. The purpose of this chapter is to provide and develop a reliable theoretical basis to give guidance to the development of a structured qualitative interview guide and a solid interpretation of its results, respectively. 2.2 State of Research In order to describe the conceptual basis for this investigation, the research objective and scientific basis of this study need to be considered in the context of the current state of research. The latter describes and highlights the relevance of the research objective. In terms of the subject matter concerning the explorative examined concept of PFBL, the investigation highly emphasizes the marketing of brand management with specific regard to the construct of PBL. The construct of PBL refers to the academic research field of Perceived Brand Localness and its opponent Perceived Brand Globalness. The academic area of brand management is one of the most intensely debated research areas in marketing. Some standard works and studies provide a holistic view of this subject area. These works include Aaker (1991), Aaker & Joachimsthaler

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(2000), Bruhn (2004), Meffert et al. (2005), Sattler & Völckner (2007), Baumgarth (2008), Keller (2008), Esch (2010) and Burmann et al. (2012). The core of this study focuses on the brand perception of consumers and consumer attitudes to brands resulting from this. This relates in particular to the area of fashion marketing. The study investigates intrapersonal facets of consumer behaviour such as perception of brands and consumer attitudes to local, regional and/or national brands. It particularly focuses on the impact of brand perception in terms of the coverage and origin of brands. Accordingly, this paper takes a closer look at three research areas with a view to developing a model for investigation. The first part considers scientific work from the area of fashion marketing. It is structured by the perceptive of academic authors regarding the consumer’s demand in the fashion market. Thus, this part considers the consumer’s behaviour in the fashion market. Relevant insights respecting the area of consumer behaviour are already provided with specific regard to the Neo Behaviourism and S-O-R theory. The latter considers first relevant academic literature in the context of consumer behaviour and provides a deep explanation approach of consumer’s emotions, motivations, consumers attitude and final purchase decision, triggered by the stimulus of the concept of PFBL. It further considers the scientific work of academic authors, who are concerned with the management oriented and supply perspective within the fashion market. Additionally, the first part presents a briefly targeted but highly relevant state of research regarding the specific issue of market segmentation around lifestyle brands. The introduction chapter has already revealed the positive relationship between the fashion market, fashion brands and the consumer’s lifestyle perspective. The second part of the section on the current state of research is targeted at the perception of such brands. These can be differentiated in terms of the typological criteria of geographical coverage into local, national, international and global brands (Homburg, 2012, p. 612). The magnitude of influence on perception is therefore the coverage of a brand. Most recent works examine global brands. They focus on the concept of perceived brand globalness (Nikula, 2013; Akaka & Alden, 2010; Fehling, 2010; Exler, 2008; Steenkamp et al., 2003; Yu, 2003; Batra et al., 2000). Further work in this area relates to research on brand perception and in particular on the important issue of consumer attitudes to regional and national products and brands. They focus on the concept of perceived brand localness (Kapferer, 2002; Schuiling & Kapferer, 2004). Research literature refers to the European, Asian and American markets. To achieve better readability, the state of research regarding the geographical brands coverage pools scientific work concerning the perception of global brands as a contradiction to local brands. Further, it combines the research literature due to the perception of local brands. Additionally, this paper will set out chronologically the current state of research. This is because the line of research on perceived brand coverage is still recent. This goes back mainly to Steenkamp, Batra & Alden (2003).

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Further, the second part reports on current research literature on brand perception and consumer attitudes to brands in the specific context of brand origin. The presentation of the current state of research in this area follows the country of origin (COO) effect and its more developed form, namely the brand of origin (BOO) effect. Finally, the second part of the current state of research refers to the authors who have carried out research on brand perception. This is based on national and individual factors such as the effects on important issues of consumer attitude and image for consumer behaviour. The third part relates to relevant academic literature concerning specific research areas of the fashion influencer based on the fashion-involvement consumer and controlling of user behaviour, both in the context of social media. Given this, with respect to the findings of the explorative pre-investigation, it is assumed that the fashion influencer might have a relevant impact on the question of PFBL on consumer’s attitude. The latter disclosure is triggered by the strong relationship of a high-fashion involvement as a basis precondition of a fashion influencer and opinion leading consumer (Kroeber-Riel, 2009, p. 549). 2.2.1

Fashion Marketing

Fashion marketing may be seen as market-oriented business management considering consumers behaviour in the first place and as a management philosophy for fashion companies. The focus of marketing is particularly clear in terms of the task of tackling the bottleneck situation on the sales market in the clothing industry. As part of the increasing importance of the fashion brand as a driver for success and business value and of fashion brand management as a dynamic force within fashion marketing for companies in the fashion industry, it seems reasonable to add the resource-based approach alongside the market-based view. The resource-based approach assumes that the reasons for successful business management are based in particular on the use of special company resources (Zentes et al., 2010, p. 13; Hungenberg & Wulf, 2004, p. 14f.; Prahalad & Hamel, 1990, p. 79ff.). This helps to form a brand identity. This is a core task for brand management in its attempt to generate customer trust, attract new customers and retain others. Meffert (2005) refers to the identity-based brand management approach. Its starting point on effects to be achieved and purchase behavioural relevance of brands presents the idea of identity (Burmann et al., 2005, p. 30) from the market-based view. In terms of demand and image orientation to the resource-based view and the development of the competence-based view, which reflects the company’s internal resources and organisational capabilities, the market-based view adds to a holistic vision of fashion brand marketing in fashion marketing (Burmann & Meffert, 2005, p. 42).

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Consequently, this therefore addresses the supply- and demand-based perspective (consumer behaviour perspective) which should be considered in regard to the current state of research. An essential aspect of fashion marketing is therefore sales market-based design of value creation processes of development and management of a fashion brand by the fashion industry and fashion retailers in Germany. The latter has prevailed over the fashion industry in terms of buying power due to structural changes such as the growing importance of vertical mono brands in the clothing industry as well as a resource-based rather inward-looking aspect, the so-called inside-out perspective (Burmann et al., 2012, p. 28). As a result of the explorative preliminary study, the experts are in agreement on the polarisation of the markets. This means that strong national and international branded products and vertical mono brands in the clothing industry seem to be successful. For this reason, both the perspective of the clothing industry and the retail clothing business should be taken into consideration for the current state of research on fashion marketing. The current state of research on fashion marketing in Germany is the focal point of studies carried out by the General and Textile Industry Research Institute (FATM) at the University of Münster. The research appears in the form of dissertations and other scientific publications published by institute director Prof. Dr. Dieter Ahlert. The research examines issues relating to the clothing industry and industry in general. The research is also the focal point of research work published by the Deutscher Fachverlag in Frankfurt am Main (DfV), which, for example, has presented a compendium (Handbook on fashion marketing) of 15 scientific and 43 practical based projects and the Hamburger Schriften zur Marketingforschung (Hamburg papers on marketing research), whose editor Prof. Dr. Michael Zerres has been involved in specific aspects of fashion marketing in Germany in recent years (Andrée, 2013; Hempel, 2010; Loock, 2008; Kutz, 2000). Further scientific studies at universities and institutes (Schmidt & Bamberger, 1998; Fischer & Artschwager, 1997; Patt, 1990) and specialist publishers investigate issues relating to the clothing industry in particular questions concerning consumer behaviour in the clothing market.5 Springer (2005) examines market development, purchasing behaviour and marketing as part of a general market study of the clothing market (Axel Springer AG, 2005). The study “MarkenProfile” (Brand Profiles) by STERN (2007) is a representative survey in Germany. It studies, for example, consumer behaviour and brand and media preferences of the Germans in terms of the clothing industry (STERN, 2007).

5

The Outfit Studies series published by the Spiegel Verlag can also be mentioned. These empirical studies examine in particular purchasing behaviour of consumers in the clothing market in Germany. Cf. Spiegel Verlag (2015).

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2.2.1.1 Fashion Marketing due to Consumer Behaviour Perspective Kroeber-Riel et al. (2009) state that the „consumer behaviour oriented, empirical consumer research is clearly based on the Neo Behavioristic S-O-R paradigm”, which conceives consumer behaviour as the effective relationship between environmental stimuli - such as the perception of a local fashion brand - (S), inherent psychological latent processes inside the consumer (O) and the purchase decision in terms of the consumer’s purchase intention (R) (Kroeber-Riel et al., 2009, p. 17). The discussion of the basis consumer behaviour paradigm, its impact on PFBL and its application as a guiding principle in the present research is presented in Chapter 2.1.1. It shows the stimulus PFBL (S) on the consumers inherent cognitive and affective processes such as relevant consumer information due to the consumer’s involvement, motivation and attitude towards LFB (O) and its impact on the consumer’s purchase reaction, purchase intention and final purchase decision (R). According to O´Cass (2004) fashion involvement is conceived as consumer-fashion clothing attachment; later, in the context of consumer activity and fashion clothing, involvement is “defined as the extent to which the consumer views the focal activity as a central part of their life, a meaningful and engaging activity in their life” (O´Cass, 2004, p. 870). Thus, it is assumed, that it is the consumer with a high fashion involvement should be the focus when it comes to the key research question. Basically, a high fashion involvement is a relevant basis indicator for an influencial role in the fashion segment. In this regard Tigert et al. (1980) and Goldsmith (1993) state the definition of the (fashion) influencer, who is determined by a high level of involvement (Tigert et al., 1980, p.17; Goldsmith, 1993, p. 401). Goldsmith (1999) additionally states that the response of consumers characterised by a high fashion involvement provides a relevant contribution to products success (Goldsmith, 1999, p.9). Findings of the study of Tigert et al. (1980) reveal five dimensions of fashion involvement: fashion interest, awareness and monitoring, stage of purchase, expert knowledge and fashion interpersonal communication. The insights of Tigert et al. (1980) and Tigert et al. (1976) such as the five dimensions of fashion involvement, are used as a basis information with respect to the applied research method of the investigation of the impact of PFBL on the consumer’s attitude. This information is considered due to sample selection, data collection and method analysis regarding the high fashion involvement consumer/ user and his influential role in the German fashion market. Furthermore, the literature review concerning the influential and advocating role of the high fashion involvement consumer group in the local fashion brand adoption process needs to be considered. In the given context of social media, the influencer is conceived as an individual ever-present online user, who has the ability to influence sentiments, opinions and behaviour of a distinct target group (von den Hoff, 2017).

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In this context, further information about this high-involvement consumer is expected to be gained by social media data collection. It is consequently relevant to analyse these specific data by text mining and Social Media Analytics, which is expected to be applied as an analysis method of the subsequent quantitative study. The literature review of fashion involvement consumer and his influential role in Social Media is presented in Chapter 2.2.3.1. This all ensures relevant complement insights into the specific consumer segment of high fashion involvement and its sentiments and attitude towards local fashion brands. Additionally, first insights of the high fashion involvement consumer are applied to the semi-structured interview guide within the qualitative main study. Based on their studies of four different cultures, Tigert et al. (1980) conclude gender is an influential factor on the variable fashion involvement, recognizing that women are more involved in fashion than men. McCracken and Roth (1989) confirm this insight by revealing that women are able to decode the fashion syntax much better than men do. In this context O´Cass (2004) identifies the consumer’s materialism, gender and the age as a relevant influential factor on fashion involvement. The study also reveals the impact of fashion involvement and knowledge on consumer confidence to purchase fashion products. O´Cass (2004) states that even though product knowledge is gained either by the product itself, wearing the clothes or by the interaction due to social media, the study ultimately proves that “a consumer’s subjective fashion clothing knowledge is significantly influenced by their degree of fashion clothing involvement” (O´Cass, 2004, p. 879). In summary, it confirms that “fashion involvement and knowledge are antecedents of consumers’ confidence in fashion clothing related decisions” (O´Cass, 2004, p. 869). Based on the definition of involvement, the study reveals that it is rather the young fashion consumer who puts emphasis on his outer fashion appearance as opposed to older fashion groups. O´Cass (2004) applies a structural equation model design and hypothesis testing method research approach by considering a sample selection of n= 478 (46,4% female; 53,6% male) respondents within the Australian fashion market. Given the questionnaire focus on a fashion product related consumer view, O´Cass (2004) points towards the limitation of his study concerning the missing fashion brand perspective and the limited data collection due to the Australian fashion market. The findings of the O´Cass (2004) study are considered due to both the relevance of consumers’ fashion involvements and knowledge impact on consumer fashion behaviour and insights of age and gender as influential factors on consumer involvement. The latter results are implemented into the research methodology of PFBL considering the integration of consumers’ fashion involvement into the short form questionnaire (purposive sample selection) of the qualitative main study to gain relevant multi consumer perspectives.

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However, the study of O´Cass (2004) does not consider the impact of consumers’ fashion involvement on fashion brands, but instead offers a product-oriented consumer perspective. Additionally, O´Cass states due to the limitations of his study, that the impact of consumer personal values needs to be considered in further research. Thus, the investigation of PFBL on consumers brand attitude considers the perspective of consumers values by the application of sinus milieus. Vieira and Slongo (2008) especially assume that materialism “could influence fashion clothing involvement, because the last one is a way of presenting messages, appearance, image, feelings, and possessions” (Vieira & Slongo, 2008, p. 47). In this context, Vieira and Slongo (2008) examine an extended theoretical model of fashion clothing involvement. Based on a data collection of 315 respondents Vieira and Slongo (2008) state that it only age has a significant influence on fashion involvement. Further they recognise coherences between the age and commitment as well as between age and subjective knowledge. Mentioned results give guidance to the method set up and data collection by means of the implementation of respondents’ information within the structural interview guide in the qualitative study. Respondents data refers to the respondent’s age, his commitment to fashion trends and his subjective knowledge regarding his education and profession in fashion. Engel et al. (1990) state that the consumer’s final purchase decision is based on the consumers purchase intention. The consumer’s purchase intention is influenced by both environmental impacts such as culture, social milieu and values among certain groups and personal characteristics such as involvement, knowledge, attitudes and lifestyle (Engel et al., 1990, p. 42f). Accordingly, findings of Engel et al. provide first insight regarding which mentioned variables influence the perception of local fashion brands (PFBL) on the consumer’s LFB attitude and consumers final LFB purchase intention. A discussion of the consumer behaviour in general terms is provided by Kassarjian and Cohen (1965), Kassarjian (1982), Robertson et al. (1991), Kroeber-Riel et al. (2009) and Meffert et al. (2015). The following state of research considers consumer behaviour (demand perspective) in its specific approach towards fashion marketing in a German cultural context, which is related to the explorative approach of the present investigation. Hermanns (1999) describes and interprets the basic requirements and approaches of fashion marketing. In his study, he presents the processes and structures underlying the fashion industry in Germany and describes the planning of conceptual thought and action from a consumers’ behaviour perspective. Latter is conceived as fashion market based and demand-based perspective (Hermanns, 1999). The basis of his analysis includes the sociological and economic aspects of fashion marketing which the interdisciplinary understanding of marketing (Zerres & Zerres,

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2006, p. 1) especially in fashion marketing makes clear. The interdisciplinary understanding of fashion marketing is evident in the interdependent roles played by economics, sociology, anthropology and in particular psychology (because of the overt construct of perception). As social sciences, these disciplines are possible approaches used to explain consumer behaviour in the clothing industry. Hermanns (1999) supports the importance of research into customers’ decision-making behaviour. He shows that fashion risk is based on the uncertainty of the provider in the face of future trends in fashion when it comes to factors relating to time, quality and quantity. He also shows that the risk is also based on future demand behaviour which is difficult to predict (Hermanns, 1999, p. 18). Studies by Jäckel (2006), Veblen (2000), Nerdinger and Rosenstiel (1999), König (1999), Wiswede (1999), Piedboeuf (1998) Bourdieu (1987) and Burghardt (1979) focus on the interactions of society and fashion and with particular sociological and psychological driving forces within the fashion industry, which can induce consumers to purchasing clothing. In their study of the over-the-counter retail clothes trade, Bauer and Jung (1999) show the impact of clarity in terms of presentation of goods and the decor and atmosphere of the sales area on consumers’ purchasing behaviour (Bauer & Jung, 1999, p. 684). Große-Bölting (2005) investigates the phenomenon of loyalty to the store brand or place of purchase in the retail clothing market. She refers to the enduring influence of the store brand on consumer behaviour. In light of increasing price sensitivity among customers, she explores the factors that can contribute to brand loyalty towards the place of purchase and the store (Große-Bölting, 2005, p.3). As part of the neo-behaviourist paradigm, Große-Bölting produces models explaining the factors underlying store brand loyalty. She does so using psychological and sociopsychological approaches that explain consumer behaviour according to the theory of perceived risk and cognitive dissonance theory. In her empirical study, she identifies self image congruence, peer group acceptance, involvement, satisfaction, trust and perception of competence as fundamental factors influencing brand store loyalty. Self image congruence and the two components of brand image and self image of a target group are the most important factors accounting for brand loyalty to a place of purchase. The greatest possible agreement between the two components should be achieved to enhance store brand loyalty (Größe-Bölting, 2005, p. 141). Große-Bölting also observes that the self image of the consumer, which is an aspect of personal lifestyle, seems to be a very relevant factor in purchasing behaviour when it comes to clothing. Große-Böltings (2005) findings provide a first insight into the importance of the a consumer’s personal lifestyle based on consumer’s values and involvement as a possible relevant influencing factor on the local fashion brand attitude and purchasing behaviour.

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In this context, Ahlert et al. (2009) present the consumer’s personal lifestyle and its inherent consumer basis value orientation as a relevant and superior criterion for market segmentation and sample selection accordingly (Ahlert et al., 2009, p. 256). The specific milieu value orientation guides consumer behaviour as an expression of the consumer’s attitude (Kroeber-Riel et al., 2009, p. 588). Concerning the question of an appropriate market segmentation and sample selection Ahlert et al. (2009) suggest the application of consumer’s lifestyle characterised by the application of Sinus Milieus (Sinus Milieus, 2017) in the fashion segment. They state that lifestyle segmentation and a consumer’s sample selection is in the ascendancy over the single use of sociodemographic segmentation criteria (Ahlert et al., 2009, p. 256f). Their findings and insight are implemented by the application of Sinus Milieus as a segmentation criterion for sample selection of the research PFBL at hand regarding the question of respondents’ value orientation due to the short form questionnaire (s. appendix). A study undertaken by Swaminathan et al. (2007) showed that self image related associations with a brand are more relevant in those brand relationships that are based on an individual’s cognitive and emotional connection to the brand (Swaminathan et al., 2007, p. 249). Accordingly, the conclusion concerning the object of research examined here (the perception of local brands) seems obvious in that a local fashion brand seems to be an expression of an unique individual identity because of its perceived coverage. In this connection, it is important to note that apart from an individual connection to a brand, group connections to a brand may also provide the basis for brand relationships. In this regard, however, country of origin effects of a brand (which are the focus of the state of research in 2.2.2) are more important (Esch, 2012, p. 112). Furthermore, the study by Große-Bölting (2005) has resulted in peer group acceptance having a positive effect on store brand loyalty. A high degree of acceptance towards the place of purchase by the peer group therefore seems important for achieving a high degree of loyalty towards the store brand. As part of the empirical survey, she concludes that the peer group segment’s friends (43%) and partners (36%) have a major influence on the purchasing decision when it comes to buying clothes (GroßeBölting, 2005, p. 150). Patt (1990) has examined strategic success factors in the retail clothing market in German-speaking countries. His extensive empirical study which was based on a sample of speciality retail clothing stores shows the factors governing successfully run businesses and shops particularly in regard to their marketing strategies and operations. Besides the quantitative performance measures of revenue growth and profit, which he represents in terms of an operationalisation of the success of fashion retail stores in the return on sales ratio (Patt, 1990, p. 71), Patt adds a subjective quality reference number for measuring success. In his regression analysis study, Patt acknowledges that the “size” of the retail company which, for example, is determined

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by the factors of sales area, sales, market coverage and advertising has a significant positive effect on the dependent variable sales (Patt, 1990, p. 219f.). In his conclusion, Patt uses multivariate methods to highlight ten factors that have a positive effect on the success of speciality retail clothing stores. Eickhoff (1997) examines success factors of outstanding partial and complete concepts and also types of store in the retail clothing market. His results relate to specialised clothing stores in Germany and the US. They focus on differentiated specialised clothing stores of the “intuitive individualist” in which the individual and freeoperating business personality is able to establish competitive advantages as well as “systematic strategies”, whose conceptual focus is primarily based on standardised management systems. Eickhoff provides evidence about the extent to which the potential for success of “intuitive individualists” (Eickhoff, 1997, p. 162) can be developed in store systems. He recognises the success factor not just in the ability to engineer a harmonious, non-contradictory market presence with a high degree of quality but to instil this into the business with entrepreneurially minded managers (Eickhoff, 1997). Ahlert and Markmann (1999) investigate consumer satisfaction. On the basis of their findings, they identify customised marketing methods in the clothing market and have developed a strategic marketing management methodology for the clothing market. They also point in particular to strategies for profiling the point of purchase (Ahlert & Markmann, 1999). In their empirical research study (n=1129), Ahlert and Rohlfing (2009) carry out a status quo analysis of the organic clothing market and investigate consumers’ environmental attitudes and purchasing criteria in terms of organic clothing. For example, they report that 40% of respondents are willing to pay a price premium for organic clothing. The findings of their regression analysis also show the effects of positive consumer attitudes to organic foods as an independent variable on the willingness to purchase organic clothing in the clothing market as a dependent variable (Ahlert & Rohlfing, 2009, p. 29). Given a local offer associated with organic, ecological and/or sustainable attributes (Schoeneberg et al., 2016) the findings of Ahlert and Rolfing (2009) provide a first insight into the assumption of the consumer’s local fashion brand association with sustainability as an impact on the consumer’s attitude and purchase intention. The indepth look at the connection and coherence between the perception of a local fashion brand and perceived ecological and/or social sustainability is explored by the qualitative main study and consumer interviews led by the structural interview guide. In this context Hempel (2010) studies customer loyalty and acquisition of new customers taking into account consumer ethics in Germany’s fashion market (Hempel, 2010). In her exploratory study, she examines the cause/effect relationships between the intention to buy and the attitude towards the intention to buy. These are presented as dependent variables. She also looks at involvement, behavioural barriers and

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variety seeking as independent variables. She assumes a direct link to purchasing intention with the latter (Hempel, 2010, p. 225f.). When it comes to consumer satisfaction, Hempel (2010) initially examines the important question of whether the purchase of clothing products satisfies needs. Her study (n=148) recognises characteristic values of neat appearance (79.7%), good looks (73%) and expressing individuality (45.3%) – which Hempel assesses to be a demonstration of personal and social identity (Hempel, 2010, p. 237) - important building blocks in marketing for generating customer value. She, therefore, uses this as a basis for hypothesis testing. As part of the same study sample, she ranks high quality (93%) and good fit (90%) as key factors for clothing product features for ensuring consumer satisfaction (Hempel, 2010, p. 236f). In another study (n=228), Hempel focuses on the LOHAS market segment in the premium segment of the fashion trade. She states, for example, that customers in this segment pay for the organic and social benefits of a fashion product because their level of education and purchasing power seem to be higher (Hempel, 2010, p. 221). The question arises why the number of 18-24 year olds in this study is underrepresented with a 5% share of the study sample. This young target group accounts for an essential part of the stakeholders. They constitute a large number of consumers and a large proportion of the suppliers of local and sustainable fashion brands. As pioneers and providers, they are often triggers of organic and social change in the fashion industry. There seem to be young fashion designers who demonstrate innovative sustainable design products such as at the Fashion Week in Germany, for example (Wiedeking, 2013, p. 9). Mentioned results provide first insights concerning the extent to which this young target group perceives a local fashion brand to be sustainable in terms of it being organic or socially ethical or innovative because of its limited coverage and local brand origin. These insights are implemented into the structural interview guide within the qualitative research approach. Based on the assumption that disposable income is a scarce resource and has a restrictive effect on intent to buy, Hempel (2010) concludes that both ethically motivated and conventional consumers generally show a high willingness to pay a price premium of at least 10% for a fashion item which, when initially offered conventionally, is perceived to be a socio-ecological fashion item. She observes that the willingness to pay for socially-based brands is more pronounced (Hempel, 2010, p. 311). She, therefore, confirms the findings of Ahlert and Rohlfing (2009) that there is a fundamental willingness to pay a price premium. Purchasing behavioural relevance of sociological factors relating to a clothing product may, therefore, be taken for granted. Hempel (2010) also confirms the hypothesis that high emotional and cognitive product involvement which is a fundamental component influencing the perception of brands has a positive effect on the intent to purchase ethical fashion brands, showing

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moderate significance (0.01 Quant.

Sequential exploratory

Qual. -> quant.

data collection

May be present

data analysis data interpretation

Sequential transformative

Concurrent triangulation

Concurrent nested

Concurrent transformative

Table 9:

Qual. -> Quant.

quant. -> qual.

data collection

or

data analysis

Quant. -> Qual

data interpretation

Concurrent collection of quant. and qual. data

quant. -> qual.

Concurrent collection of quant. and qual. data

quant. -> qual.

Concurrent collection of quant. and qual. data

quant. -> qual.

data collection

Definitely present

May be present

data analysis data interpretation data collection

May be present

data analysis data interpretation data collection data analysis

Definitely present

data interpretation

Types of Designs by Four Criteria (referring to Bryman & Bell, 2003, p. 98; Creswell et al., 2003, p. 210.)

Compliant with Creswell et al. (2003) this research approach is based on a sequential exploratory mixed-method design, which is conducted in two main processes, “with the priority generally given to the first phase” (Creswell et al., 2003, p. 211f). Subsequently, the qualitative aspect focussing the investigation of a phenomenon is prioritised with respect to this study.

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Figure 4: Sequential Exploratory Design (referring to Creswell et al., 2003, p. 211)

The way of implementation, which is conceived as determined order due to the qualitative and quantitative inquiry, for this investigation is constituted by the inductive research approach as a result of focussing on the research question. An inductive method generalises perceived phenomenon in order to frame a rule (Kuckartz, 2014, p. 41). This research approach uses a qualitative investigation followed by a quantitative one. Given the key research question being central, a first chosen qualitative approach is likely suitable in order to discover relevant structures and to gain a deep understanding of this complex research topic. The key research question draws on hypothetical constructs such as those related to consumer attitude and perception, which are embedded in a phenomenally complex context reflecting the dynamic and changing structure of the German Fashion Market. It is important and appropriated to examine these constructs first by adopting a qualitative research approach using problem-centred interviews, in order to gain a deep and broad understanding of their meaning and inner structure due to the Fashion Market. Thus, focusing mentioned hypothetical constructs deals with the exploration of the impact of Perceived Brand Localness on Consumers´ brand associations and attitudes, which can also be understood as latent intrapersonal variables and have a phenomenological character. Subsequently and within the context of the perception of local fashion brands, the qualitative study examines advanced intrapersonal variables such as the motivations of consumers´ purchase intention towards local brands. Not least because by means of an interactive, frank, personal dialogue it might be easier to gain valid information about the causes, impacts and effects of such intrapersonal variables on respondents’ associations or attitudes embedded in their social reality, referring to the perception of local fashion brands. MAXQDA will be used as an analysing method in order to find out about the social reality within a specific, German cultural context. It is anticipated that these findings will be complemented by quantitative methods in order to gain supplemented,

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advanced and underlying insights respecting the key research question and, in this respect, to generalise those findings (Kuckartz, 2014, p. 17). The following quantitative investigation accordingly aims to gain more precise numerical data in order to complement a previously discovered phenomenon (Kuckartz, 2014, p. 67). The quantitative method is used to embellish the primarily qualitative study and therefore the objective of the sequential exploratory method design, which is applied in this investigation “is to use quantitative data and results to assist in the interpretation of qualitative findings” (Creswell et al., 2003a, p. 181). “The primary focus of the sequential exploratory design is to explore a phenomenon” (Creswell et al., 2003a, p.181). The phenomenon of this investigation is clearly defined in the first chapter. With respect to the question of integration, which means at what stage these two sub-processes of research design are integrated, the results and findings of the qualitative and quantitative research work are implemented during the interpretation and conclusion phase respectively. In contrast to the sequential explanatory design, the research approach of the present investigation, mentioned as sequential exploratory design, focuses the investigation of a phenomenon reflecting consumer´s perception and attitude towards local brands, whose causes might be likely discovered with respect to consumers’ emotions and motivations. Table 9 shows implementation, priority and stage of integration in the form of a Sequential Exploratory Design. Finally, it is relevant to determine, if this research design should be implemented within a prescribed theoretical perspective or not, whereby according to Creswell et al. (2003b, p. 228) both options are known as a proved research design approach. This investigation is using a broadly conceived theoretical and conceptual framework, which is elaborated in chapter 2. Considering these theories, the inquiry of the research question is embedded in a theoretical broad framework, which appropriately gives guidance conducting interviews in terms of building a semi-structured, problem-centred interview guide within the qualitative data collection process. Summarising this research approach, which draws on the conceptual phase, empirical evidenced phase and conclusion phase, is based on a mixed method design particularly a sequential explorative design focussing a primarily qualitative main investigation, which is complemented in terms of a quantitative investigation.

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Figure 5: Mixed Method and Model Design (referring to Foscht et al. 2009)

The direct impact of the overall research question on derived and differentiated research questions endures with respect to the qualitative main investigation and the quantitative complementary investigation. Only by this the overall research question is more likely answered. Figure 5 shows the aforementioned structure of the sequential mixed-method research approach and its elements of the research method and model design in general. Consequently, the mixed method design approach is particularly suited to this investigation of perception of local fashion brands and also of consumer attitudes towards local fashion brands within the German fashion market. With respect to the research structure of the sequential explorative mixed-method design, in the following the empirical process and the transition of each empirical phase are explained. 3.3.1.2 Phases of Sequential Explorative Mixed-Method Design Due to the discovered phenomenon of perceived local fashion brands and its describing leading research question, the research follows a sequential research method design approach. The method design of this research is characterised by a predominately explorative qualitative pre- and main investigation. Subsequently, these findings will be complemented by a quantitative research method to complement findings of the main

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qualitative study. Therefore, regarding the above statements, the research model design is based on a Mixed Method Design that uses triangulation to acquire a more thorough understanding of the research objectives and derived research questions. Based on the scientific foundation, which shows an overview of the Mixed Method and Model Design, figure 6 additionally presents the details of applied empirical research methods (model design) in terms of the conceptual phase, the empirical evidence phase, and the conclusion phase and particularly the transition of each empirical research phase. The aforementioned sequential research process of perceived fashion brand localness is divided into 3 phases: 1. Qualitative pre-investigation characterised by the analysis of fashion expert interviews. 2. Qualitative main investigation analysing fashion consumer interviews by applied qualitative content analysis. 3. Quantitative complementary investigation adopting the analysis of fashion consumer content in social media. Figure 6 presents the empirical research process and its research transition as well as the scientific mixed-method and research model design of perceived fashion brand localness (PFBL).

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Figure 6: Application and Process of Empirical Research Methods

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The entire research process is illustrated by the sequential research mixed-method design. It begins in terms of pre-considerations of the experienced/ recognized phenomenon and developed research questions (conceptual phase), and subsequently concerns the data collection and analysis of expert interviews, qualitative main investigation and supplement quantitative study (empirical phase) until the conclusion phase of the supplement quantitative research enhances the insights of the qualitative main investigation on a meta level. A well-elaborate research diary documents this research process. The research diary is illustrated in the appendix. The first phase of the empirical research starts with a qualitative pre-investigation of 4 expert interviews to narrow down the key research question, discover influencing variables of PFBL such as education level, fashion involvement, consumers’ culture and value basis, and confirm the relevance of the thesis and the research gap in this field. First insights and conclusions of the explorative pre-investigation affect the initial phase of the qualitative main investigation. This explorative pre-investigation in the form of expert interviews distinguishes and differentiates further research objectives and corresponding research questions, which is presented in Chapter 3.1 (Development of Research Objective and Research Questions). As previously mentioned, the development and refinement of the originally considered phenomenon and derived research questions (introduction chapter) is necessary due to a sequential exploratory research design and its inductive research character. In summary of the first empirical phase, given the conclusion of explorative preinvestigation, the development of research questions relies on hypothetical constructs such as those related to consumers’ local fashion brand associations, emotions, motives and attitudes, which are embedded in a phenomenological complex context reflecting the specifics of a German culture fashion design as well as dynamic and changing positioning of German Fashion brands. Subsequently, in a second empirical step, advanced research questions and mentioned hypothetical constructs are examined by adopting a qualitative main research approach using 17 problem-centred consumer interviews to gain a more thorough understanding of their meaning and inner structure due to the Fashion Market. The preparation of the data collection of the qualitative main study considers learned insights of the analysis and conclusion of expert interviews (pre-investigation) regarding the necessity of consideration of education level, value orientation, and fashion involvement of potential interview respondents. The implementation of data collection for the qualitative main study is accomplished by a temporal primary short-form-questionnaire and survey (see appendix). The latter provides socio-demographical data (age, gender, education level, profession), personality, and cultural traits information (value orientation and individual life

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objectives), as well as data about the level of fashion involvement of the interview respondent. The main data collection is accomplished by the subsequent content-structured guided consumers’ interviews, which leverages a structural-interview-guide, applying high and mid/low education level individually. Corresponding gained data serve as document variables and coded statements within the qualitative content data analysis. The software tool MAXQDA is used as supporting analysing instrument. To summarize this second empirical process step, the objective of the predominant qualitative main study is to gain a deeper understanding of the impact of PFBL on consumer attitude. Thus, the research objective is to provide an explanatory approach of a positive LFB consumer attitude, which is ultimately documented  by a comprehensive new theory model on the question of the impact of PFBL on consumer attitude in the specific fashion cultural German context.  by the discovery of a consumer typology of Perceived-Local-Brand-Groups based on consumer LFB purchase motivation as a basis for fashion companies’ local fashion brand positioning. Local fashion brand positioning should be created by the “Typology Creation of Qualitative Content Data Analysis” utilizing MAXQDA (Version 12.1) as an analysing tool (Kuckartz, 2014a, p. 124f). In comparison to the subsequent quantitative research, the qualitative research does not need any statistically expressive random check encompassing high respondent numbers. The focus is initially on categorisation and typologies using "Purposive Sampling" according to Kuckartz (2014b, p. 85). In a third empirical research step, the subsequent quantitative study seeks to complement the results of the predominant qualitative study. The research questions are again developed, nuanced and differentiated by the conclusion and insights of the qualitative data analysis of 17 consumers’ interviews. Hence, in the light of a sequential Mixed-Method-Design (QUALquan.), the results of the predominantly qualitative study will be complemented by a quantitative investigation. With respect to the quantitative research approach, Social Media Analytics is apparently the most suitable method to connect the qualitative research to examine the hypothetical constructs of consumers´ perception and attitude of local fashion brands. The question of suitability and relevance for social media analytics and textmining as the most suitable method to connect to the present qualitative study is answered in the following. A detailed explanation of the valid use of social media analytics and text mining regarding the research question of this investigation is made in Chapter 3.3.4. The aspect of a higher social media attraction relies on the fact that fashion topics are highly communicated by consumers on the internet (Mohr, 2013) and social media sources, respectively. Especially the high-involvement fashion consumer, whose

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impact is a matter of particular interest within this investigation, leverages social media to comment and state his attitude and opinion. Nowadays, society communicates in a different way than that of the past and uses media differently, particularly social media, to exchange experiences of relevant social topics. It is incontestable that fashion segments are one of the most relevant topics according to Social Media generated data, particularly with regard to fashion trends and brands (Mohr, 2013, p.18). Associations towards fashion brands due to the coverage and origin of a fashion brand are commonly a relevant topic, which society discusses in a broad and deep social media context. In this context, Cao et al. (2014) constitute that Social Media has a significant influence on the consumers’ fashion purchase behaviour. Using Social Media Analytics as a quantitative method might be an appropriate method for this investigation because, by not supplying a questionnaire to the respondent or user respectively, the quantitative findings can be examined impartial by the researcher. It is anticipated that this kind of unaffected data capturing enables a more direct, not-researcher-influenced, voluntary data of respondents’ user-content. The latter describes consumers’ social media (re-) actions, such as users’ (consumers) Facebook and fashion-blog statements disclosing emotions or sentiments, purchase motives, or local fashion brands attitude, which are directly attributed to their social reality. Due to the fact that presented source data of the quantitative investigation is characterised as unstructured text, text mining is used as a specific method within the Social Media Analytics approach. Compliant with Vidhya and Aghila (2010), text mining involves the extraction of relevant information and knowledge from unstructured text (Vidhya & Aghila, 2010, p. 614; Weiss et al., 2004). As opposed to text mining, data mining is about searching for patterns in data reflecting a strong structure, which exist most importantly in a numeric form (Mandl, 2013, p. 183). Thus, text mining is used as a relevant method to gain valid results drawing on the field of application such as information retrieval, information extraction, text-classification, clustering, recognition of pattern and recognition of trends. The process of text mining is explained in chapter 3.3.4.4 (Method of analysis due to the Text Mining Process). According to Moro et al. (2014), text mining is particularly conceived as searching for patterns in unstructured texts (Moro et al., 2014, p. 1315). According to Feldman and Sanger (2006), the most frequently encountered forms of patterns are represented by distribution and proportion, frequent sets, and associations (Feldman & Sanger, 2006). The latter might be the most important aspect with respect to the research question considering the impact of perceived brand localness on consumers’ brand association. In contrast to this Data Mining is about searching for patterns in data reflecting a strong structure, which more importantly existing in a numeric form (Mandl, 2013, p. 183).

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Given the analysis support tool of IBM WATSON for Social Media Analytics, relevant data is collected by consumers’ statements (posts) concerning social media information such as fashion blogs and Facebook accounts. Notably, by not supplying a questionnaire to the respondent or user respectively, those quantitative findings can be examined impartially by the researcher. It is assumed that this kind of unaffected data capturing enables a more direct, not-researcher-influenced, voluntary data of respondents’ emotions, motives and user content, as attributed to their social reality with respect to the perception and consumers’ attitude of local fashion brands. In this regard the methodology of the present investigation considers user content and user mentions, which are predominately attributed to (fashion-) blogs and Facebook data without leaving user reviews or user forums out of account. The latest trends of market research indicate that (fashion) companies leverage social media analytics – based, for example, on presented social media data collection with regard to fashion-blogs and Facebook- to gain direct, not-influenced and not-filtered information from the consumer about new brand positioning and product innovations (Schoeneberg et al., 2015). The emphasis of the present investigation is to gain the consumers’ information about his attitude towards LFB by means of the methodological approach of sequential explorative Mixed Method design using the method tool of text mining and social media analytics relating to the quantitative study. 3.3.2

Qualitative Exploratory Pre-Investigation

The empirical research starts with a pre-investigation of 4 expert interviews. Expert interviews contain statements of an academic expert, a fashion retail expert, a regional fashion designer expert, and a fashion market research expert. The figure presents selected expert interview partners.

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Figure 7: Expert Interview Partners Those experts were selected by consideration about the leading knowledge in each specific field. Subsequently, experts were chosen from the authors’ personal business network.  Fashion marketing research expert: Siegfried Hoegl is Managing Director brand at Gesellschaft für Konsumforschung (GfK), which is one of the most relevant market research institutes in Germany. The company has a leading role in the German fashion segment, which is documented by innovative fashion market research in the field of fashion retail and fashion brands.  Fashion Academia expert: Prof. Dr. Michael Zerres is a leading marketing expert at the University of Hamburg. He built a marketing publication series focussing on unique fields of fashion marketing.  Fashion retail expert: Matthias Wehrs is Managing Director at one of the most relevant fashion retailers in Nord-Rhein-Westfalen in Germany. He has worked in the field of fashion retail for over 25 years.  (Local) Fashion brand design expert: Philippa Lindenthal created her own fashion label in Hamburg in 2008 after studying fashion design. She is a specialist in the field of knit wear.

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Statements of expert interviews are analysed based on an expert structural interview guide (see appendix), which is developed by consideration of recognised phenomena in this investigation. Conclusions of the aforementioned pre-investigation are provided in the Chapter 4 respecting the presentation of results. Summarised, in order to confirm the relevance of the key research question in the case under consideration, to narrow down research questions and to gain first empirical insights approaching the key research question, expert interviews were conducted as the first pre-study with regard to the sequential exploratory mixed-method design of this investigation. 3.3.3

Qualitative Main Study

3.3.3.1 Quality Criteria of Study The definition of quality criteria of this investigation is based on the epistemological persuasion and pragmatic scientific theory, according to Creswell and Plan Clark (2010). They argue in favour of re-framing specific standards of quality criteria by applying a main qualitative research approach followed by investigation with a sequential mixed-method design. Miles et al. (2014, p. 311) state new quality criteria for qualitative research approach and contrast them with those quality criteria of quantitative research, which is presented in table 10. Quality criteria for quantitative research

Quality criteria for qualitative research

Objectivity

Confirmability

Reliability

Reliability, dependability, auditability

Internal validity

Credibility, authenticity

External validity

Transferability, fittingness

Table 10: Quality Criteria respecting Qualitative Research Approach (referring to Miles et al., 2014)

Kuckartz (2016, p. 203) distinguishes between internal quality study design and external quality study design with respect to the qualitative content analysis, which is applied in this investigation. On one hand, the internal study design is divided into reliability, dependability, auditability, intersubjective traceability and credibility; on the other hand, the external study design differentiates between transferability and generalizability. The derived terms of internal and external quality study design reference to the concepts of internal and external validity. Subsequently, the procedural character of this investigation (sequential exploratory mixed-method design due to Creswell et al., 2003, which is presented in chapter 1.4) is considered, postulated by Flick 2009, p. 272. Therefore, this investigation frames likelier internal quality criteria for the

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evaluation/ analysis of qualitative data. Transferability and generalizability are influenced by the whole concept of the main qualitative study design. Further information, which characterise a high level of the aforementioned quality criteria regarding the data collection and subsequent transcript process, as well as the implementation of data and its qualitative analysis is documented by Kuckartz (2016, p. 204f). Consequently, this investigation has regard to its quality criteria by means of a suitable qualitative content analytical method, the explanation of applied mixed-method design, the consideration of inter-coding reliability using MAXQDA software, the elaboration and consistency of category system/ coding system, the consideration of all collected data as well as excesses and opposing cases, a repeated and iterative coding process, the consideration of memos and manifestation of original quotations, the reasoning of conclusions drawn from statements and the archiving of all interviews, memos and numbers of paragraphs. All mentioned criteria are fulfilled and evidenced by the methodology chapter. Additionally, the research process is documented by a well-elaborated research diary of the researcher, which chronically illustrates each detailed step of the investigation. The research diary is presented in the appendix. Flick (2009, p. 26) states that an appropriate level of transferability and generalizability is another objective of qualitative studies. Consequently, this is accomplished by an accurate sampling accomplished by the purposive sampling in this investigation. The level of transferability and generalizability is increased by the following four method strategies in this investigation. These method strategies are documented by the research diary presented in the appendix. 1. Discussion with experts, peer debriefing: Given the performed pre-investigation in form of expert interviews a regular exchange with these and further experts proceeded. As an example, the researcher attended four well known, relevant scientific mixed-method MAXQDA conferences in Berlin and Hamburg, in which the researcher exchanged views with Prof. Dr. Kuckartz and Dr. Thorsten Dresing about the chosen sequential explorative research approach of this investigation. 2. Discussion with research participants. As an example, B02 sent a written explanation of her understanding of local fashion brand in contrast to a regional fashion brand following the conducted face-to-face interview. The content of the email was prompted by a discussion with the research participant and is attached to the interview to implement in MAXQDA for the subsequent data analysis. 3. Extended stay within the research area and its return. This is documented not only the long period of time of high-education interview participants (12.05.2016 – 20.12.2016, 31.12.2017), but also documented the return of the researcher to the

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specific research area by conducting the interview of B16 (male, high education) at 31.12.2017 to avoid premature conclusions during the qualitative content analysis. 4. Application of Mixed-Method and triangulation: The combination of qualitative and quantitative research methods increase the level of quality of generalizability (Denzin, 1978; Flick, 2007; Kelle, 2007; Kuckartz, 2014). Thus, this investigation provides and maintains a high standard of quality criteria for research with respect to confirmability, reliability, credibility and transferability. 3.3.3.2 Method of Analysis 3.3.3.2.1 Content-Structured Guided Interviews In light of the overall research question exploring the impact of Perceived Brand Localness on consumers ́ brand associations and consumers attitudes (and within the context of the perception of local fashion brands, to examine intra-personal, notobservable variables like emotions and the motivational structure of consumers ́ purchase intention towards local brands), it is imperative to examine these concepts first by mentioned qualitative research approach. Hence, the Qualitative Content Data Analysis is constituted as method of analysis due to the main qualitative research approach to accomplish a clear explanation approach due to focused research question. The applied analysis method conducts/leverages content structured guided interviews with 17 fashion consumers, to gain a thorough understanding of their meaning and the inner structure of the German fashion market. Data collection draws on the respondents’ short-form-survey (see appendix) and content-structured-guided interviews (see appendix) within this qualitative main research process (illustrated by research process step two figure 6 Application and Process of Empirical Research Methods. The process of Data collection is described in detail in chapter 3.3.3.4. The interviews are problem-centred and content-structured, relating to the concepts of consumer behaviour and focussing on the phenomenon of a positive perception of fashion brands’ localness. Subsequently, interviews are carried out, according to a developed interview guide (s. appendix), based on respondents’ individual (pre-) conditions (Creswell et al., 2003b, p. 180). The main structure of the interview guide is set up according to S-O-R Model serving as an explanatory approach of consumer behaviour. S-O-R Model is presented as a precondition within the reference frame of this investigation (chapter 2, Literature Review). In figure 8, the illustrated model presents the process of local fashion brand choice by the consumer, presenting relevant concepts and hypothetical constructs influencing the consumers’ fashion brand attitude.

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Figure 8: Process of Local Fashion Brand Choice due to SOR Model (with reference to chapter 2.1.1 of the investigation, author’s illustration.)

The stimulus (S) illustrates the impact related to the perception of a Local Fashion Brand on consumers’ organism, which is influenced by consumers’ predisposition processes, preconditions, and cultural socio-demographic aspects. The organism of the consumer (O) explains consumers’ affective and cognitive concepts such as involvement, motives, emotions, and attitude towards local fashion brands. Subsequently, the S-O-R Model refers to the reaction (R) of the consumer, characterised by his final fashion brand preference and choice, and affected by the level of purchase intention and/or his motivation to purchase a local fashion brand. Within this model, consumers’ brand attitude is a significant explanatory approach of consumers’ preference of local fashion brand. Thus, the structural interview guide is based on questions considering respondents’: 1.

Preconditions due to the level of education, cultural aspects or his/her value orientation respectively, which might cause prejudices attributed to German Fashion Design image, or due to fashion companies’ global and local fashion marketing strategies.

2. Preferences respecting fashion (brand) purchase. 3. Unsupported perception (in the meaning of associations) of local fashion brands. 4. Supported perception (in the meaning of associations) and determination of local fashion brands presenting 60 logos of German Fashion Brands. 5. Fashion involvement

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6. Emotions towards local fashion brands, which are considered by the construct of purchase motivation. 7. Motives to purchase towards local fashion brands. 8. Attitude both in general and towards attributes of local fashion brands. 9. Specific influences towards local fashion brands. The interview-guided structure is implemented into 3 phases (see appendix): 1. Introduction and precondition phase: This phase serves to gain statements and information about respondents’ preconditions, (fashion) preferences, prejudice, and to deepen the investigation of the level of “fashion involvement” of respondents. Additionally, it seeks to discover whether a basic idea of a local (fashion) brand is given/ is in the respondents’ mind. The interview starts with an input question concerning respondents’ involvement, his individual fashion preferences considering quality, colours, pattern. and brands; and subsequently, his preferences and attitude towards fashion and fashion brands in general. The interviewee then responds to fashions’ relevance for society. Thereafter, the meaning of German fashion design is focused in the interview to experience his attitude towards German fashion design and possible country-of-origin effects. Fashion involvement aspects were stated by the fundamental study of Tigert et al. (1976, p. 47), regarding the influencing variables of consumers’ fashion involvement, which draws on fashion interest, awareness and monitoring, stage of purchase, expert knowledge and fashion interpersonal communication. Indications of the influence of fashion involvement as relevant basis information in the context of social media and influence on the key research question are stated in Chapter 2.2.3 Given these results, the level of respondents’ fashion involvement is implemented in the short-form-survey and the structured interview guide by: a. Basic fashion interest, which is explained by the question “Fashion is an important aspect in my daily life” within the primarily short-form-survey. The question is answered by respondents from a low level (1 = not true) up to high level (5 = true) to gain a first impression of fashion involvement level. b. Fashion awareness and monitoring, which is discovered by the interview questions “What is the meaning of fashion for you?“ and ”What criteria and needs of fashion purchase do you have?” in the beginning of the structural interview guide. c. Fashion stage of purchase, which is discovered by the structural interview guide questionnaire: “Criteria and needs of fashion purchase.“ d. Fashion expert knowledge, which is discovered by the structural guided questionnaire: “What do you associate with German fashion design?“ What kinds of (local) fashion brands do you know?”

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e. Interpersonal fashion communication, which is discovered by the structural guided questionnaire: “What is the meaning of fashion for you?”, ”In what way you are influenced regarding fashion trends? “as an example, a higher level of fashion involvement is influenced by the fashion creator him/herself attributing a close communicative relationship to the fashion creator. The information, whether a respondent has a strong interpersonal communication, corresponds to the shortform-survey question of his profession and personal precondition; for instance, whether he is still using his own fashion blogs. Given respondents’ personal fashion background and level of fashion involvement, further questions focus on emotions, motives, attitudes and purchase intentions towards local fashion brands, which is approached in the problem-centred phase. Summarizing key questions within the structural interview guide due to phase 1:      

What is the meaning of fashion for you personally? What is your personal fashion style? Which attributes/ items have relevance if you buy a fashion product? Which fashion brand attributes are important for you? What is the meaning of fashion? Do you think fashion has a social meaning? What issues do you pay attention to before you buy a fashion product? In what way you are influenced by fashion trends?  What do you associate with German Fashion Design? If fashion design is a mirror of architecture, what would German Fashion Design house/ room look like?  What are your needs regarding a fashion brand?  What are your first associations when thinking of a local fashion brand? (not supported for highly-educated respondents) 2. Problem-Centred phase: Given information about the respondents’ preconditions influencing the research question in phase 1 indirectly, the second phase along the interviews approaches information with a direct influence on the question:” What is the impact of Perceived Fashion Brand Localness on consumers’ associations, emotions, motives and brand attitude?” This phase is still linked to phase 1 according to the question:” What associations do you have regarding local fashion brands? Answers are used to analyse local fashion brand associations and to illustrate the final associative semantic network of local fashion brands associations presented in chapter 4.2. Afterwards, the mentioned research question is supported by the illustration and visibility of concrete German fashion brand logos to gain valid information about mentioned research questions. Therefore, this part of the structural interview guide contains the illustration of 60 German fashion brand names and logos, which are presented to the respondent to ensure a clear idea of a Local Fashion Brand in the mind of the respondent. The list of

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60 fashion brand logos is integrated into the structural interview guide, as documented in the appendix. Respondents’ perception of localness of a fashion brand is clearly attributed to the respondents’ affiliation of brands origin and the perceived level of coverage of the brand in the majority of statements. Some established Local Fashion brands are characterised and determined differently, apparently reflected by different education level of respondents. It is possible that the respondents’ degree of fashion involvement is also not without effect. Taking this into account, the conduction and structure of the interview was methodically adjusted and distinguished slightly in light of experienced incomprehension of low and mid education-level respondents considering the question: “What do you associate with German fashion design?” Subsequently, respondents with a low or middle education level are faced with illustrated visible fashion brand logos at an earlier stage of the interview to gain applicable, valid and utilisable information with respect to various perspectives (for example, due to its origin and/or level of coverage) about alleged local fashion brands. The responses of multi-various perspectives are one of the most relevant conditions due to the qualitative research approach and inductive research design. Following questions regarding associations, characteristics, emotions and motives towards local fashion brands throughout phase 2. this phase ends by the question of whether the respondent has a positive, negative or neutral basic attitude towards local fashion brands. As a result, statements about associations, characteristics, emotions, motives and basic attitude towards local fashion brands of respondents in this phase are related to information about the preconditions, prejudice and (fashion) cultural background of the respondent due to phase 1. To summarize key questions within the structural-interview-guide due to phase 2: 1. What associations do you have regarding local fashion brands? 2. - Interviewer presents illustrated fashion brand logos to the respondent - Do you know this brand? Do you think it is a local fashion brand? Why do you think so? 3. What characteristics do local fashion brands have? 4. Do you think the coverage, or the origin of the brand affect your point of view, whether it is a local fashion brand or not? 5. What emotions do you have towards this specific local fashion brand? 6. Would you purchase a local fashion brand? What needs might be fulfilled if you do so? 7. What are your motives to buy a local fashion brand? 8. Do you have a positive, negative or neutral attitude towards local fashion brands?

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3. Reflecting phase: This phase serves to specify and reflect on respondents’ statements. Statements of respondents’ local fashion brand associations, emotions, motives for purchase and basic attitude are scrutinised by asking the respondent to evaluate local fashion brand attitude attributes. Given collected local fashion brand attitude attributes by the interviewer, which were mentioned during the interview such as modern, sustainably, experimental, creative, fit-quality, workmanship-quality, or artisanal, interviewees give an estimation considering the tendency whether an interviewer named/mentioned local-fashionbrand-attribute is ´true´ or ´not true´. The specific concepts of brand´s reputation, fashion design and fashion brands attractiveness are considered to evaluate the impact of those concepts on consumers’ local fashion brand attitude. Accordingly, this interview section is conducted by the following questions: 1. I tell you some alleged local-fashion-brand-attributes. Would you mind giving estimation, if it is more likely true or not true? (Structural Interview guide, appendix) 2. What characteristics should a fashion brand have in order for you to trust it? 3. Is a high reputation of the brand important for you? How should a fashion brand proceed to have a high reputation? Do you think local fashion brands have a high reputation? 4. How do you perceive the fashion design of local fashion brands? 5. Is the attractiveness of a fashion brand important for you? How can a fashion brand be attractive to you? Do you think local fashion brands are attractive? Evaluating and summarising mentioned answers serve to provide the opportunity to reflect those answers against contradictory statements of the respondent at an earlier stage of the interview. This methodical procedure supports the illustration of possible contradictive statements revealing the cognitive dissonance effect of respondents. 3.3.3.2.2 Process of Qualitative Content Data Analysis With reference to the illustration of the empirical research methods of this investigation (see figure 6 in chapter 3.3.1.2), the qualitative content data analysis is used as method of analysis regarding the qualitative main investigation. Given the structure and content of Content Structured Guided interviews the process of applied analysis method is implemented. The process of Qualitative Content Data Analysis of this investigation is in pursuit of an (explorative) evaluation and display of the aforementioned research questions, analysing respondents’ statements in the context of the impact and causes of consumers perceived fashion brand localness and its coherence.

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The comprehensive process of qualitative content data analysis draws on seven steps as an important aspect of validation of the research process. Based on the research question, whose reply is the object of interest, the qualitative analytical evaluation process starts with the initial textwork. Within this first process step, the interview data is imported into the supporting analysing tool of the MAXQDA system and corrected if necessary. Within the initial textwork process step, first understanding and insights of respondents’ interviews resulting memos and case summaries are analysed manually. The figure 9 shows the individual process of content structured qualitative analysis of present investigation. For a comprehensive understanding, details of the general process are stated by Kuckartz (2014b, p. 78). 7

6

Evaluation & Display based on categories

Coding of all interviews due to category system

1

Initial Textwork -

Memo Case summary 2

5

Identifying subcategories of PFBL (inductive process)

4

Research Question

Developing 20 main Categories of PFBL due to: -

3

Content Matrix by MAXQDA

Reference Frame (deductive SOR Theory) (inductive) Initial textwork

Coding of preliminary interviews

according to main categories

Figure 9: Process of Content-Structured Qualitative Data Analysis (with reference to Kuckartz 2014b, p. 78)

The integration of socio-demographic variables such as age, gender, or education level will be conducted to ensure efficiency. The information gained from respondents’ shortform- questionnaire and survey, as mentioned within the explanation of the research process and as part of data collection within the qualitative main investigation.

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Additionally, these variables represent important document variables due to the software tool MAXQDA. They constitute the basis for qualitative analysis, to cluster results with respect to a typology of Perceived-Local-Fashion-Brand-Groups. The latter was mentioned with reference to the objective of the qualitative research. Summarised, the initial textwork process part is characterised by writing memos about specific text passages, first evaluation ideas considering respondents’ statements and case summaries of each respondent. In a second step, the main categories are developed. Table 11 presents the main category system following the structure of respondents’ interview guide responding to leading research questions: No.

Category system/ Code structure (Main categories including coding number of subcategories)

Codings

1

Personal Precondition, Prejudice, Fashion involvement

2

Association with German Fashion Design

3

Meaning and needs regarding fashion/ brands

206

4

Criteria and needs regarding fashion purchase

157

5

First Association towards local fashion brands (LFB)

6

Characteristics, attributes of local fashion brands (LFB)/ LFB Reputation/ LFB Attractiveness

499

7

Determination of local fashion brands (LFB)/ national fashion brands (NFB)

289

8

Association towards local fashion brands (LFB)

9

Determination of international, global fashion brands (IFB), Characteristics, attributes of IFB.

10

Emotions towards local fashion brands (LFB)

47

11

Purchasing motives towards local fashion brands (LFB)

71

12

Basic attitude towards local fashion brands (LFB)

13

Attitude towards attributes of local fashion brands (LFB)

14

Relevance attributes for purchase attention of LFB

15

Signals and symbols of local fashion brands (LFB)

16

Appraisal of LFB benefit and cognitive bias, Threats, opportunities, strength, weaknesses of LFB

17

Individual and cultural impact on LFB perception

13

18

Influencing marketing variables on LFB perception

78

19

Target Groups of LFB

15

20

Local fashion brand’s inclusion in big fashion companies’ portfolios

306 61

37

56 223

27 183 23 31 159

10 2.491

Table 11: Main Category System

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The categories serve as a guiding code system. On the one hand, due to the reference frame and mentioned SOR theory; but on the other hand, categories and subcategories are developed, based on the memos and case summaries of initial textwork and research questions. As a result, the category and coding system is characterised by about 20 main categories. This category structure is implemented as a category and coding frame, which is illustrated by the supporting analysing software MAXQDA. The latter is shown due to the figure 10 (System of Categories and Codings) focussing relevant mentioned consumer behaviour concepts, constructs and codes, respectively: involvement, associations, emotions, motives, and attitudes towards local fashion brands. With consideration of developed research questions due to the qualitative preinvestigation and literature review, mentioned research questions influence:  The development of the main categories of PFBL.  The identification of subcategories and the coding of interviews reciprocally. Main categories illustrate the system of codes and category structure implemented in MAXQDA software. Figure 10 illustrates the applied system of categories and codings.

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Figure 10: System of Categories and Codings (with reference to MAXQDA)

Subsequently, as a third step, the coding process of the interviews started based on developed categories regarding preliminary interviews. Coding of the text material provides a distinct allocation of respondents’ statements to an evaluating category. Preliminary interviews draw on high-education-respondents by considering the differentiation of high, mid, and low education level respondents throughout the course of data collection. It is important to mention that the coding of respondent interviews is a repeated iterative process, as documented by authors’ research diary. The iterative character of this analysing process step takes ambitious effort but signifies relevant research work to ensure process validity. To ensure a high level of research process validity, a pre-selected academic expert and qualitative researcher reiterated the coding process and confirmed the coding structure as high-level.

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In light of the coding and qualitative data analysing processes, figure 11 presents the content matrix of the category first associations, as displayed by a summary-gridmatrix in MAXQDA:

Figure 11: Summary Grid Matrix First Association of Local Fashion Brands (with reference to MAXQDA)

Thus, the fourth phase of the qualitative content analysis process provides insight by means of focussing on contingency tables (summary grid matrix): 1. Category summaries, which evaluate and focus each category such as associations, motives, emotions and attitude towards local fashion brands over all respondents (or even clusters of respondents, such as high-education). 2. Case summaries, which evaluate and focus coded statements of each respondent (or even cluster of respondents, such as high-education) Case summaries are visualized by memos of each respondent B01-B17. Results of this phase of qualitative analyzing process lead to the development of subcategories. According to this process, step sub-categories are built by text mining of the coded statements in each main category. On the one hand, this fifth process step is needed to differentiate the main categories and gaining more specific, detailed and targeted answers to related research questions. On the other hand, related subcategories give insight about the summary of statements with high content correlation and its frequency. Thus, given comparison and contrasts of relevant sub-codes and sub-categories, this category analysis leads to a more distinguished and complex analysis and greater explanatory power (Kuckartz, 2014b, p. 77).

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Upon completion of this part, the coding of all interviews is proceeded according to the sixth process step of qualitative data analysis (iterative process step). After all, evaluation and display are based on categories and sub-categories, respectively. 3.3.3.3 Purposive Sample Selection 3.3.3.3.1 Basic Consideration and Foundation of Sample The purposive selection of suitable interview respondents is a labour-intensive but necessary in terms of the validation and reliability of the research in a scientifically appropriate way. Kuckartz (2014b, p. 85) and Creswell (2009) mention the purposive sample selection as a suitable method with respect to the qualitative data research method. Patton (2002) recognises purposive sampling as the most effective method in qualitative research. It serves to identify and select information-rich cases, which draw on individual or group of consumers attained specific knowledge of the phenomenon or the research question, respectively (Creswell et al., 2011). With this consideration, the purposive sample first considers the selection of fashion design graduates (n= 697), which obviously have a higher education level and a high fashion (brand) involvement regarding the depicted phenomenon of perceived local fashion brands in this investigation. Those potential respondents should be available and be able to disclose their knowledge, experience, and cognitive view in “an articulate, expressive, and reflective manner” (Palinkas, 2015, p. 534). The latter is stated by Bernard (2002) by emphasizing the motivation to participate in a qualitative investigation. Thus, the motivation of the respondent to participate in the qualitative main investigation was considered by request and receipt of the written consent of the participant. Parallel to the receipt of the requested written consent, the respondent sent back the completed short form survey to the researcher’s address. Information of the short form survey contains socio-demographical data of the respondents (age, profession, education level), data regarding his fashion involvement level, and data about his estimation about his value orientation and objectives (short-form survey, see appendix). Considering these distinct but distinguished variables of the potential participant of the interview in the forefront of the interview (such as high education against low education respondents and/or traditional value orientation as opposed to realign value orientation of the participant) provides the opportunity to gain various statements of multiple perspectives. This is an important issue of quality criteria of qualitative data analysis and mixed-method design. Under this consideration, Palinkas et al. (2015, p. 535) state: ”Thus a multistage strategy for purposeful sampling should begin first with a broader view with an emphasis on variation or dispersion and move to a narrow view with an emphasis on

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similarity or central tendencies. Such a strategy is necessary for the task of finding the optimal balance between internal and external validity.” Due to the results of the expert interviews and the qualitative pre-investigation, respectively, the sampling is based on participants with different education levels (high/mid/low education level) and different value orientation. The research additionally considers consumers’ fashion involvement. Data from expert interviews suggests that the leading research question, focussing on the impact of Perceived brand localness on consumers’ attitude, is influenced by the consumers’ education level. Additionally, experts’ interviews mention, an alleged impact of the consumers’ degree of fashion involvement. Furthermore, analysis of expert interviews supports the conclusion that consumers value orientation and life objectives might affect his perception towards local fashion brands, which leads to a segmentation focussing the lifestyle of a consumer. Haley (1985, p.12) states that it is agreed upon the fact that consumers’ social-classvalue-life-style segmentation have a high relevance due to product segments corresponding with a higher consumer involvement such as watches, jewellery or fashion. Thus, the Sinus Milieu model serves as guiding model for purposive sample selection. Indications due to market segmentation in the fashion segment are provided in Chapter 2. 3.3.3.3.2 Sinus Milieus The Sinus Institute is a member of the “Arbeitsgemeinschaft deutscher Markt- und Sozialforschung”. The research of Sinus Milieus is about the illustration and studies of the development of homogenous social clusters of German population due to its social class and its value orientation since 1978 (Sinus Institute, 2015). Kroeber-Riel et al. (2013, p. 643) mention the Sinus Milieu model as suitable method for purposive segmentation due to the social environment, the socio-demographic structure, personal cultural aspects, and values of the consumer. As a vital point specific to present research, it is important to mention that in this context Ahlert et al. (2009) present the consumer´s personal lifestyle and its inherent consumer basis value orientation as a relevant and superior criterion for market segmentation and sample selection accordingly (Ahlert et al., 2009, p. 256). They suggest the application of consumers lifestyle characterised by the application of Sinus Milieus (Sinus Milieus, 2017) in the fashion segment. Additionally, Meffert (2015) states that the Sinus Milieu segmentation is a suitable method perceiving consumer behaviour, which is attributed to consumers’ behaviour due to high involvement purchase intention and life-style orientation such as the perception of fashion brands. Thus, Sinus Institute (2015) states that not only socio-demographic attributes but also additional consumers’ values and life objectives are relevant attributes to explain

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low

mid

high

EDUCATIONAL LEVEL

consumers’ life-styles, development of consumer attitude, and consumer behaviour, respectively.

B02 B05

Conservative 11%

B04 AmbitiousCreative 7%

B09

Bourgeois Society 14%

B08

B01 Performer 7%

Social Ecologic 7%

B06

B07

B17

B12

B15

Pragmatic Milieu 9%

B11

Traditional 14%

B13 Hedonistic Milieu 15%

B14 Uncertain Sensitive 9%

B10

Social Class Value Basis

Liberal-Intellectual 7%

B03

B16

VALUE ORIENTATION Tradition

Modernity / Individuality

Realignment

Figure 12: Allocation of Respondents to Social Classes in Germany (corresponding to Sinus Milieus 2015)

Figure 12 illustrates the Sinus Milieu model considering the impact of consumers’: a) Value orientation (x-axis) and b) Education level on his social class/position (socio-demographic aspects) (y-axis). The traditional value orientation is characterised by a consumer segment, which is traditionally entrenched. This consumer wants to keep and guard his lifestyle and attitude towards life. The modern value orientation approach is exposed by gaining and possessing property, on the one hand. On the other hand, this consumer segment pursues individual fulfilment, emancipation and authenticity. The realignment value approach is characterised by a consumer segment, which is constituted by its multioptions, pragmatism on the one hand. On the other hand, its represented by exploration and finding of new syntheses. Respondents estimation regarding their values and life objectives were collected within the short-form-questionnaire/ survey question: J) “What are your personal values?” I) ”What are your individual life objectives?” (see appendix). The latter answers and interview-statements about their lifestyle and value system are recognized for classification of respondents’ value orientation.

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Respondent

Emphasis of respondents’ statements considering their life objectives and value orientation

Value orientation of Sample Allocation

B01, B04, B09, B13, B14, B15

Personal development, growth, change, thrill/ loyalty, recognition, trustfulness

Realign

B02, B05, B06, B07, B10, B11

Good job and fulfilling partnership/ owning & enjoy subject matters, appreciation, Individual-fulfilment.

Modern/ Individuality

B03, B08, B12, B16, B17

Secured life, build & keep asset/ family, harmony

Traditional

Table 12: Respondents Classification respecting Value Orientation The appropriation of respondents’ education to a distinct education level considers the following structure: High education level: Interview participants, who have graduated in terms of a bachelor’s, master’s or doctoral degree. This includes the following interview participants: B01, B02, B03, B04, B05, B16. The attribute of a higher education level gives an indication to the social upper class, which draws on the following sinus milieus segments:    

Conservative Milieu (10%) Liberal-Intellectual (7%) Performer (7%) Ambitious Creative (7%)

Mid education level: Interview participants, who finished High School, A-Level and/or start studying. This includes the following interview participants: B06, B08, B09, B11, B13, B15. The mid education level gives an indication to the mid social class, which draws on the following sinus milieus segments:  Bourgeois class (14%)  Pragmatic Milieu (9%)  Social ecologic Milieu (7%) Low education level: Interview participants, who finished secondary modern school primary school or even without school education: B07, B10, B12, B14, B17. The low education level gives an indication to the lower social class, which draws on the following sinus milieus segments:  Traditional (14%)  Uncertain Sensitive (9%)  Hedonistic Milieu (15%)

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The influence of the consumers’ education level and his value orientation on the perception of local fashion brands was recognised/ identified by the academic literature review expert interviews (qualitative pre-investigation). Hence, the sinus model is used as a guideline for the allocation of purposive sample selection. Social Class

Sinus Milieu

% of German population

Cum %

Number of sample

% of Sample

Cum. %

Uppersocial class

Conservative

11%

32

2

11,8

29,5%

Liberal- Intellectual

7%

1

5,9

Performer

7%

1

5,9

Ambitious-Creative

7%

1

5,9

MiddleSocial Class

Social-ecologic

7%

1

5,9

Pragmatic Milieu

9%

1

5,9

Bourgeois Society

14%

3

17,6

LowerSocial Class

Traditional

14%

3

17,6

Uncertain-Sensitive

9%

1

5,9

SUM

Hedonistic-Milieu

30

38

15% 100%

100

3

17,6

17

100%

29,4%

41,1%

100%

Table 13: Number and Percentage of Sample due to Sinus Milieus Meffert (2015, p. 192) points out that not only the consumers’ education level, but also their profession and revenue influence the allocation to a distinct social class. Even though this investigation concentrates on the education level of the respondent as a guiding principle, the profession and revenue of the respondent are considered by data collection, visualisation (document variables in MAXQDA) and qualitative data analysis. This consideration leads to some overlaps between the distinct sinus milieus.

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Social Class

Sinus Milieu

Sample due to Education Level

Respondent

Number of sample

% of Sample, due to Milieu

Cum. %

Upper social class

Conservative

high

B16

2

11,8

29,5%

Middle Social Class

Low Social Class

B03 Liberal- Intellectual

high

B02

1

5,9

Performer

high

B01

1

5,9

Ambitious-Creative

high

B04

1

5,9

Social-ecologic

high

B05

1

5,9

Pragmatic Milieu

mid

B09

1

5,9

Bourgeois Society

mid

B06

3

17,6

mid

B11 3

17,6

Traditional

low

B17

mid

B08

low

B07

low

B12

UncertainSensitive

low

B10

1

5,9

Hedonistic-Milieu

mid

B15

3

17,6

mid

B13

low

B14 17

100%

SUM

29,4%

41,1%

100%

Table 14: Number and Percentage of Sample due to Education Level Thus, table 14 shows the sample focussing the education level as the guiding principle of purposive sampling and respondents’ allocation respectively for this investigation. 3.3.3.3.3 Fashion Involvement Expert interviews expose a possible impact of the degree of fashion involvement on the perception of local fashion brands. Further, a higher fashion involvement is recognised as necessary basis information for the fashion influencer, and his interactivity on aocial media fashion platforms (see chapter 2.2.3). Thus, fashion involvement of the candidates was additionally considered to accomplish a high qualitative interviewee output with regard to the special characteristics of the fashion market (and fashion brands, respectively). The specific academic literature due to the characteristics of fashion marketing in the German fashion market and fashion involvement are presented in chapter 2 (Literature Review). Fashion involvement is differentiated in low, mid and high involvement. On one hand, data collection based on level of fashion involvement was captured within the short-form-questionnaire by the implemented question “Fashion is an important issue in my daily life” (Licert scale 1 = not at all, 5 = yes sure, that’s true). On

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the other hand, the aspect of personal fashion involvement was part of the structural interview guide “What is the significance of fashion for you?” in the beginning of the interview (phase one). As mentioned in chapter 3.3.3.2.1 (Content Structured Interview Guide), fashion involvement aspects were stated by the fundamental study of Tigert et al. (1976, p. 47), regarding the following influencing variables on consumers’ degree of fashion involvement (see chapter 2): 1. Fashion interest, which is stated as ”a continuum ranging relatively from the highlyinterested fashion consumer to the totally non-interested buyer.” 2. Fashion awareness and trend monitoring is mentioned as ”continuum ranging from the consumer, who is very actively monitoring the style trends as opposed to the totally non-aware individual. 3. Stage of fashion purchase, which is exposed as “a continuum, which ranges from the early adopting and experimenting consumer to the late buying or anytime buying, conservative consumer. “On one hand, this continuum relates to the fashion offer regarding a Spring/Summer collection, which can be purchased from January until June. On the other hand, regarding a Fall/Winter collection, which can be purchased from July until December. 4. Expert knowledge, which is stated as “a continuum ranging from consumers, who are relatively knowledgeable about fashion, styles, brands, and trends to those who have no insight into the fashion arena.” The information whether a respondent has a high fashion knowledge corresponds to the survey question of his profession; if he is still working in the field of fashion, he might be regarded with a higher fashion expert knowledge. 5. Fashion interpersonal communication, which is constituted as “a continuous dimension which describes the relative communicative and influential power of the (consuming) population at conveying fashion information.” Hence, these five aspects draw on the fashion influencer using digital instruments in social media for interpersonal communication such as fashion blogging, twitter and Facebook posts. Basically, a fashion influencer is characterized by a high fashion involvement considering all mentioned aspects of fashion involvement focussing on digital interpersonal communication. A fashion influencer is probably promoting the newest fashion brand collection digitally during the fashion fair even though fashion fairs in Germany simply provide access to the fashion experts, such as fashion buyers. Thus, influencers can push a fashion trend or perhaps even start a fashion trend. Given a high level of digital interpersonal communication as a basic condition, the following criteria due to a first allocation of fashion influencer might be considered:

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 level of digital coverage and digital reach respectively, which means the number of followers of social media accounts/ social media posts.  high against low content relevance within the fashion segment community (as an example, the context of topic fashion sustainability in strong relation to the topic of current fashion colour, fashion product or fashion style trends might have a lower relevance, which might be explained by its underrepresentation).  High level against low level of digital interpersonal fashion communication. A low level might be characterized by a one-way communication to followership as opposed to a high level of digital interpersonal fashion communication. The latter might be exposed by a dialogue communication between the fashion influencer and his followership (responding of the influencer to (critical) posts to the followers).  Proximity to the creator or designer’s fashion shows.  Earliest moment of fashion trend monitoring respecting macro fashion trends or micro fashion trends. A macro fashion trend corresponds with fashion category trends such as fashion colours, fashion pattern or fashion segments (denim trend). Micro fashion trends consider only a fashion product or a fashion style, which tap its potential short term, such as the Adidas Sneaker Stan Smith.  Education level in the field of fashion, which might correspond with the fashion expert status and fashion expert knowledgeability. A high academic education (graduated in fashion design, or fashion economy journalism) and/or a high (longterm) experienced profession in the field of the fashion industry or fashion retail is an indicator for a fashion expert status or Fashion Opinion Leader.  Level of independency and handling of fashion industry collaboration. Promoted fashion products need to be denoted as an advertisement by the influencer. Thus, not everyone who has a high fashion involvement is a fashion influencer. But anyone who is determined as a fashion influencer has a high fashion involvement. The influence of fashion involvement on the fashion influencer in the specific context of social media was already stated in Chapter 2.2.1. The aforementioned criteria describe the current development of the adoption of the influencers’ written content (Facebook post, blog post). Today’s logic of Social Media is based on the quantitative reach/ coverage and quantitative operating numbers, such as the number of followers of a social media account. Regarding the fact that the authenticity and credibility of the fashion influencer becomes increasingly more important over time, the education level of the influencer (and likely education level in the field of fashion) need to be foregrounded. As an example, the fashion influencer Caro Daur has a high social media reach in Germany, as demonstrated by the high-level coverage of her fashion blog: 117.396 Facebook followers and 1.4 million Instagram followers, according to Styleranking (2018) (see appendix 6). She studies business administration in Hamburg and has a close relationship with the designer. She prefers micro trends to macro trends and her respond-quotes (re-posts) on posts are low. She is well known in the fashion

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community and the cosmetic company MAC launched a Caro Daur Lipstick. She is a fashion influencer and likely an opinion leader in terms of her high fashion publicity. However, Marsha Sedwick, at 26 years old, (high-level coverage of fashion blog, 65.357 Facebook followers and 172k Instagram followers according to Styleranking (2018) (see appendix 6) graduated in fashion journalism. She prefers macro trends to micro trends. She states, “When something becomes a fashion trend I am not interested anymore” (Schütte, 2016, p. 67). Her respond-quotes on follower posts are at a high level. She is a fashion influencer and opinion leader in terms of her high academic fashion expert knowledge. The information on whether a respondent has a high communication level corresponds to the survey question of his profession and personal precondition; for instance, whether he is still using his own fashion blogs. The dichotomy between respondents’ level of fashion involvement, characterized by a high fashion involvement as opposed to a low fashion involvement, serves to gain various and multi-perspective statements (cultural diversity) about the perception of local fashion brands. The level of respondents’ fashion involvement is evaluated by consideration of mentioned influencing variables within the category and coding system. 3.3.3.3.4 Recruitment of Respondents The recruitment process of purposive interview sampling is divided into two parts and phases respectively. While the initial part refers to the recruitment of the high-education and higher fashion involvement potential interview participants, the subsequent phase concentrates on the recruitment of the low/mid-educated potential participants. The subsequent part has special regard for the purpose of the sampling, gaining interview statements’ saturation by considering interview participants with a low/ mid and high education, and by considering a participant’s level of fashion involvement. Finally, the values of the participants serve as a structural criterion of participants’ cultural characteristics. The latter gives a cultural cluster indication of the participants. 1. Step one of the recruitment process concerns contacting potential participants of the study by choosing candidates with high education level and higher fashion involvement. Candidates were chosen from a data set of 1.823 potential candidates. They were asked to participate in the qualitative study. On one hand, a higher fashion involvement of respondents was suggested by the experts of the pre-investigation due to a possibly impact on the research question. On the other hand, a higher fashion involvement of interview partner might be appropriate because one can expect more valuable answers in terms of content and reflective statements with regard to association, emotions, motives, and attitudes towards local fashion brands. Subsequently, interviews with lower

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education level and lower fashion involvement are conducted to gain different perspectives or contradictory statements. 2. Due to the second and third process step, potential respondents were informed about the process and content of the study. 3. The researcher gained a verbal commitment or refusal. 4. In the fourth step, confirmed respondents signed new informed consent forms with the data protection regulation feature (see appendix). 5. In the fifth step, the researcher sends, retrieves, and evaluates a short-formquestionnaire of interview candidates regarding interviewees’ characteristics, which represent document variables in MAXQDA. They constitute the basis for the upcoming qualitative analysis. Gender, age, origin, profession, years on the job, education level, value-orientation and fashion involvement all confirm a setting of various respondents’ perspectives (see appendix) and whether the participant fits to purposive sampling set due to high-education and higher-fashion involvement. Either the recruitment process stops, due to non-matching or the interview, or is carried out with the respondent. 6. In the sixth step, a content-structured and problem-centred interview is carried out. The structural interview guide of the qualitative interviews is suited to the education level of the respondents. The respondents are informed prior to the interview that it will be recorded and archived. The respondents receive a written confirmation that all information given in the interview will be handled anonymously and scientifically correct. The respondents’ interviews are carried out in a quiet and discrete setting. Figure 13 shows the recruitment process based on the purposive sample collection strategy.

3. Empirical Research and Method Approach

Figure 13: Recruitment Process Phase due to High-Education Level

111

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3. Empirical Research and Method Approach

This presented process is repetitive if the statements of the high-education and higher involvement respondents gained saturation. Furthermore, the selection of interview partners considers the variety of respondents’ value basis (Traditional, Modern, Realign) and respondents’ level of fashion involvement (High, Low). Taking this into account, Kuckartz (2014b, p.85) states that the objective of qualitative investigation is characterised by the “diversity of variants” to gain saturation. The recruitment sample process of high-education respondents (phase 1) is accomplished by gaining saturation of respondents’ statements considering the characteristic of a local fashion brand, the determination of a local fashion brand, or even the motivation to purchase a local fashion brand. As an indication of saturation, B05 states that the most relevant characteristic of a local fashion brand refers to its lower level of coverage and also to its high affiliation towards the brands origin. All high-educated respondents stated this aspect. Another example of gained saturation is demonstrated by the fact that Liebeskind Berlin is perceived as a local fashion brand (determination) and that a true fashion brand’s story and (local) brand’s name are an important aspect for the credibility of the brand, which might lead to a positive attitude or higher purchase intention. These statements of B05 resemble the chronological first high-education interview of respondent B01 (High Education Level\B01: 137 - 138). Given high-education and a higher fashion involvement sampling to ensure a high diversity and variety of perspectives, purposive sampling considered a low-fashion involvement respondent (male, B16) in contrast. The value orientation of respondents is identified according to the question “What values have a high relevance in your life?”, which is placed within the short-form-survey due to the structural high-education interview guide (see appendix). The allocation of purposive sample respondents is illustrated by table 13 and 14. An approach to the Sinus Milieu segmentation is used as a pre-clustering method, responding to value orientation (x-axis) and education-level (y-axis). The latter is a relevant aspect of the social-demographic situation of the respondent that serves as a criterion for upcoming clustering. After gaining saturation of high-education sampling, the recruitment process of low/mid education respondents begins.

3. Empirical Research and Method Approach

Figure 14: Recruitment Process Phase due to Low-/Mid-Education Level

113

114

3. Empirical Research and Method Approach

Figure 14 shows the process of the second phase of the recruitment process due to the aforementioned purposive sampling. Given the initial recruitment process of high-education respondents, the subsequent recruitment phase presents the process of recruiting low and mid education respondents to examine variety statements with respect to the different levels of education as a basis for data collection. The data set of potential participants (n = 1.823) draws on the working experience of the researcher. As previously mentioned, the researcher has been working for over 20 years in the field of fashion as a marketing manager at the sportswear company Adidas, as well as a senior lecturer and Business Head for fashion marketing at fashion school Akademie JAK in Hamburg, and also as a Managing Director for the fashion consulting company Hamburger Helden. Consumers with a low and mid education were contacted as a potential respondent by considering the researchers’ business network respecting a respondent’s higher fashion involvement but a lower education degree. Consumers with low and mid education were contacted by a personal network considering a possibly lower fashion involvement. The recruitment process of the low/mid education respondents’ interviews passes through the process stages in the same manner as the initial recruitment process due to potential high education participants of the qualitative interviews. Conducting of 9 additional interviews recruiting low and mid education interview participants (having regard to higher fashion involvement) accomplishes saturation regarding respondents’ statements considering their associations towards LFB smallness, or even having no tangible associations towards local fashion brands. Given the differentiation of high, mid, and low education of potential respondents, contrary levels of consumers’ fashion involvement serve to attain a high degree of statements’ variety, which is appropriate due to the main qualitative research approach/method. 3.3.3.3.5 Final Sample Description Given research question 17, consumers interviews were conducted within the period from May 2015 until January 2017 and considered different education level in terms of high, mid and low education. The pre-investigation presented the variable of education level of consumers as the most influential variable on the research question of perceived brand localness. Hence, it is chosen as the leading indicator whether the sample has gained saturation. Different allocation of value orientation and the level of fashion involvement were considered to gain various perspectives according to the requirements of an explorative mixed-method research approach, given the main emphasis on qualitative

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115

research. The latter was previously presented in chapter 1 with respect to the scientific foundation. The following tables present the sample selection of this research distinguished into high, mid- and low- education interview participants. Education Group

I

Gender Codings Words Min Year

High

B01 male

191

7536

81

1984

Realign

Education Pro Fashion live Grown Interview year Involve up conduct Bachelor 7s 5 south north 12.05.15

High High

B02 female B03 female

184 230

5832 91 10034 59

1955 1992

Modern Modern

Doctoral Bachelor

High

B04 female

220

6172

84

1993

Realign

Bachelor

High High

B05 male B16 male

196 119

7548 7669

58 1976 109 1971

SUM MEAN

1.140 190

Value basis

Modern Master Tradition Master

35 0

5 3

north South north South

19.06.15 08.12.15

0

4

north North

15.12.15

11 22

4 1

east West north South

20.12.15 31.12.16

44.791 482 7.465 80

Table 15: Final Sample Selection Qualitative Study High-Education Level According to the high-education level, the sample gained saturation after 5 interviews (B01, B02, B03, B04, B05). B16 serves the purpose of confirming the sample of high education and of various statements according to the opposite poles’ high against low fashion involvement in the high-education segment. Education Group

I

Gender Codings Words Min Year Value basis*

Education

Pro Fashion live years involve

Grown Interview up conduct:

Mid

B06 female

177

7.717

59

1986 Modern

A-Level

4

5

mid

Mid

28.12.15

Mid

B08 female

90

4.647

48

1973 Tradition A-Level

20

3

west

west

28.05.16

Mid

B09 male

114

5.267

53

1976 Realign

Middle School

22

2

north

south

14.06.16

Mid

B11 female

111

4.559

38

1953 Modern

A-Level

45

5

north

east

11.08.16

Mid

B13 male

153

6.245

64

1988 Realign

A-Level

4

5

north

north

13.10.16

Mid

B15 female

86

5.278

85

1996 Realign

A-Level

0

5

north

west

16.11.16

SUM

731

33.713 347

MEAN

122

5.619

58

Table 16: Final Sample Selection Qualitative Study Mid-Education Level Considering the mid education level, the sample gained saturation after conducting, transcribing and pre-analysing 6 interviews (B06, B08, B09, B11, B13, B15). B09 affects the purpose of various statements according to the opposite poles’ high against low fashion involvement in the mid-education segment.

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Education Group

I

Gender Codings Words Min Year Value basis*

Education

Pro Fashion live years involve

Grown Interview up conduct:

Low

B07 female

112

6.509

52

1976 Modern

Middle School

11

5

north

north

22.05.16

Low

B10 male

79

5.662

43

1989 Modern

Main School

6

4

north

north

28.06.16

Low

B12 female

135

4.983

62

1958 Tradition Main School

13

1

west

west

14.08.16

Low

B14 male

134

11.298 112 1992 Realign

Middle School

4

5

mid

mid

08.11.16

Low

B17 female

160

6.491

Main School

18

2

north

east

25.01.17

SUM

620

34.943 332

MEAN

124

6.989

63

1980 Modern

66

Table 17: Final Sample Selection Qualitative Study Low-Education Level Considering the low education level, the sample gained saturation after conducting, transcribing and pre-analysing 4 interviews (B07, B10, B12, B14). B17 serves the purpose of confirmation of gained saturation due to low-education level respondents. B12 affects the purpose of various statements according to the opposite poles’ high against low fashion involvement in the low-education segment. During each data collection phase of education level (starting with data collection of high education respondents), coded statements of respondents were analysed according to the main categories. After 15 interviews, the researcher gained saturation of the entire sample. The final interview, B17 (high education, low involvement), was intended to confirm saturation of the entire sample. However, it affects the purpose of various statements according to the opposite poles’ high against low fashion involvement. The tables present the data collection considering high, mid, low education sample with respect to: a) Socio-demographic aspects (gender, year, education, years of professional experience) b) Cultural aspects (value orientation, area of current residence (live), area of grown up residence (grown up) c) Personal fashion aspect (level of fashion involvement due to a Likert scale from 1 = no fashion involvement, up to 5 = high fashion involvement) d) Numerical data of the interview considering:  number of codings of each interview  number of words of each interview  duration of each interview in minutes e) The conduction date of the interview. The data was collected by the short-form-questionnaire which was sent to the potential participants at an early stage of the interview recruitment process (see phase five within the recruitment process). Attained data is implemented into MAXQDA and

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represents document variables of the respondents as a basis for a distinct upcoming allocation, analysis and typecast (clustering) of the collected data. According to statements of high-educated against low-and mid-educated respondents, it can be assumed that high educated respondents clearly dissociate from low and mid education respondents, as examined in chapter 6. As an example, high education respondents gained 199 number of codings on average as opposed to mid (122) and low education respondents (124). 3.3.3.4 Data Collection Data collection considered conclusions of the expert interviews (qualitative preinvestigation), especially respondents’ education levels as an important variable. Hence, the data base/set comprises 1.823 potential participants and consists of a list of n = 697 design graduates and 1.126 potential participants from the researcher’s personal and business (fashion) network. The list of n = 697 design graduates of Academy JAK Design GmbH includes graduate names and corresponding E-mail addresses and phone numbers. Design graduates fulfil the criteria of higher fashion involvement and high education level. The list serves as a data basis for the aforementioned purposive selection. The list of n = 1.126, the researcher’s personal and business (fashion) network, contains potential participants including different level of education, profession and degree of fashion involvement. This data set serves as a basis for potential participants of a mid and low education level. Subsequently, potential participants are recruited, which fulfil the following criteria in the first step:  High- education level  Higher fashion involvement Thus, seven interviews (B01, B02, B03, B04, B05, B16) were conducted during the period starting from May 2015 until December 2016 with respect to the mentioned criteria. Statements of interview B05 gained saturation considering the leading research question. B16 was conducted to gain a higher variety of statements considering the aspect of level of fashion involvement. Table 18 presents the structure and date of conduction of data collection of high-education respondents. Due to the qualitative main study, empirical data was collected in form of written respondents’ short form questionnaire/ survey on the one hand, and oral qualitative content structured consumer interviews on the other (see short form questionnaire in the appendix).

118

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Hence, data analysis draws on the respondents’ short-form-survey on the one hand, and respondents’ content-structured-guided interviews on the other, within this qualitative main research process. The short-form-questionnaire fulfils two functions: Firstly, to ensure and confirm proper respondents’ due to purposive sample selection; and secondly, to serve as a data basis for subsequent content-structured interview with the respondent. Thus, respondents’ data gained from short-form-questionnaire serves as a sociodemographic (age, profession, etc.) and personal-psychographic (value-orientation) data basis in the software tool MAXQDA within the qualitative data analysis. This data is implemented as/by document variables. The structure of the short-formquestionnaire is distinguished into ten general information and questions (A-J) (appendix): A. Forename of the respondent, to allocate to the following content structured interview correctly. Right after the interview, names of the respondents are anonymized by changing names to respondents’ abbreviation and number such as B01, B02, B03, B04, B05, B16 according to, for example, high-education level. B. Year, which corresponds with different education level and the respondent’s working experience. C. Education level, which is characterized by an open question referring to statements a) no school education b) main school c) middle school d) A-level e) A-level and studying f) graduate in terms of Bachelor’s, Master’s or Doctoral degree. D. Profession, which refers to the job education of the respondent (manager, housewife, optician, student, or working in the fashion business.) E. Years on the job, which represents the level of job experience. F. Residence, which documents where the respondents live. This question gives insight in the perception of local fashion brands according different regions in Germany. G. Grew up/ Born, which further distinguishes mentioned statements in question 6. H. Level of fashion involvement, due to the survey question “Fashion is an important aspect in my daily life”. This question is answered by respondents from a low level (1 = not true) up to a high level (5 = true) to gain a first impression of fashion involvement level. I. Life objectives, due to the open survey question “Which aims in your life do you want to reach?”. This question refers to respondents’ value basis and orientation respectively. It is a supplement to question J. J. Value orientation, due to the open survey question “Which values have a high relevance in my life?”. This information serves as an indication for the allocation of values towards the x-axis of the aforementioned Sinus Model.

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119

An evaluation and estimation of the criteria were discovered by an open-question within the short-form-questionnaire/survey. This survey was sent to potential interview candidates within the process of purposive sample selection to accomplish and select suitable interviewee partners. As a result, data collection of short-form-questionnaire provide (document) variables and codings for the MAXQDA analysis on a meta level. Education I Gender Year Value Group basis High B01 male 1984 Realign

Education Profession Pro Fashion live Grown Interview year Involve up conduct: Bachelor Manager 7 5 south north 12.05.15

High

B02 female 1955 Modern

Doctoral

Lecturer

35

5

north South 19.06.15

High

B03 female 1992 Modern

Bachelor

Graduate

0

3

north South 08.12.15

High

B04 female 1993 Realign

Bachelor

Graduate

0

4

north North 15.12.15

High

B05 male

1976 Modern

Master

Manager

11

4

east

High

B16 male

1971 Tradition Master

Manager

22

1

north South 31.12.16

West

20.12.15

SUM MEAN

Table 18: Document Variables referring to High-Education Level Table 18 presents data collection of high-education interviewees from the short-formquestionnaire. The data collection, due to the qualitative content structured consumer interviews, is guided by the structural-interview-guide. The interviews were conducted in an interactive, frank, and personal dialogue, which accomplishes valid information about the causes, impacts, and effects of intrapersonal variables on respondents’ associations or attitudes embedded in their social reality, relating to their perception of local fashion brands. This valid information is shown in the following figure by the number of codings of each respondent. Codings represent respondents’ answers to questions (categories) during the interview, which were then notated by the researcher. The table 19 shows the number of codings referring to data collection of qualitative content structured consumer interviews. Education Group High

B01 male

191

7536

81

1984

Realign

Education Pro Fashion live Grown Interview year Involve up conduct Bachelor 7s 5 south north 12.05.15

High High

B02 female B03 female

184 230

5832 91 10034 59

1955 1992

Modern Modern

Doctoral Bachelor

35 0

5 3

north South north South

19.06.15 08.12.15

High High

B04 female B05 male

220 196

6172 7548

84 58

1993 1976

Realign Modern

Bachelor Master

0 11

4 4

north North east West

15.12.15 20.12.15

High

B16 male

119

7669

109 1971

22

1

north South

31.12.16

SUM MEAN

I

Gender Codings Words Min Year

1.140 190

Value basis

Tradition Master

44.791 482 7.465 80

Table 19: Number of Codings referring to High-Education Level

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3. Empirical Research and Method Approach

In the context of the interactive character of present research Witzel and Reiter (2012) recognise the influence of prior knowledge on the researcher and his research approach. According to the revealed phenomenon of this research, it can be stated that the neutral view on the perception of local fashion brands is promoted by the literature review in this field, which describes effects of local and global brands in diverse directions on consumers’ perception. The following further ethical concerns are mentioned due to this investigation. They correspond to the UWS guidelines for ethical research regarding the principles of autonomy and justice. The principal of autonomy concerns every person’s right to self-determination and informed consent of respondents (University Ethics Committee, 2009, p. 4). Additionally, the respondents should be competent and provide the compliance voluntarily. The principle of justice relates to confidentiality and anonymity. Both the ethical principle of autonomy and of justice are observed throughout this investigation by considering a possible effect on interviewees, data protection, and anonymity. Effects on interviewees are not expected. The respondents are informed prior to the interview that it will be recorded and archived. Interviewees are informed about the approach and objectives of the research when first contacted. The respondents receive a written confirmation that all information given in the interview will be handled anonymously and scientifically appropriate (see appendix). The respondents’ interviews are carried out in a quiet and discrete setting. The interviewer did his best to stay non-judgemental. Additionally, the anonymity and confidentiality of the data given by the respondents is ensured. Thus, names of the interviewees are coded right before the transcript creation and imported into the supporting analysing tool MAXQDA. All interviews are recorded with a voice recorder and recording software “audio transcription”. Finally, all data and information given through the interview are uploaded in MP3 format on a personal computer. Interviews are then stored on a password-protected personal laptop. According to the validation of the research process, it is imperative to maintain transcription rules. With consideration to Kuckartz et. al. (2008) the following underlying transcription rules are applied:  The interviews will be transcribed literally, and existing dialects are not being transcribed.  The interviews are being transcribed verbatim, not by speech or in summary.  Any information providing information on the respondent identity are anonymised.  Longer breaks are marked with points (...).  Special (emotional) emphasis of the respondent are marked in capital letters.  Sound statements of the interviewer such as, “Ah”, “Mhm” are only transcribed when emphasising an emotional reaction of the respondent.  Emotional reactions such as “laughing” or “Irritation” are transcribed in inverted commas.

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121

 The interviewer was marked with an "I" and the respondent with a "B" within the text. 3.3.3.5 Structure and Development of Categories Main categories are the basis for qualitative data analysis. The development of these main categories draws on the research question, theoretical and conceptual reference frame, and initial text work and analysis. The basic framework is attributed to the SOR- consumer behaviour process, which maintains involvement, associations, emotions, motivations, and consumers’ attitude towards local fashion brands. The structural interview guide considers the distinction between high education-level and low-/mid-education respondents. The following framework considers both the adoption of mentioned distinction content-wise, and the stringent classification of a basic coding frame to underline the clear methodical approach of this investigation. Thus, the following table reflects the basic framework: Number of category

Description

1

Precondition/ Involvement

2

Association towards German fashion design

5

First association towards local fashion brands

8

All association towards local fashion brands

10

Emotions towards local fashion brands

11

(Purchasing) Motives towards local fashion brands

12

(Basic) attitude towards local fashion brands

13

Attitude towards attributes of local fashion brands

Table 20: Basic Category Framework of Perceived Brand Localness The category frame reflects the developed coding system in MAXQDA, which illustrates the number of 2.470 codings. It is imperative to define each category to illustrate its significant contribution for clarification of the research question. Subsequently, table 21 presents the determination of each category, its reciprocal relations, and number of codings. The basic framework (basic code structure) is the main object of upcoming qualitative data analysis according to the leading research question. The complement category framework serves considerations of differentiation of positive attitude consumer typology or of possible local fashion brand strategy implementation.

this category refers to statements about respondents fashion involvement due to: his fashion interest in general, his fashion awareness and reaction on trends , his fashion stage of purchase , his fashion expert knowledge ( opinion leader), his fashion interpersonal communication (in particualar Social Media communication). this category refers to statements about ideas, beliefs and imaginings considering German Fashion Design. These

6-Characteristics and attributes of LFB 6a-characteristics of high FB reputation

6

8

7

5-First Associations towards LFB

5

II. Problem centred phase/

II. Problem centred phase/

II. Problem centred phase/

II. Problem centred phase/

II. Problem centred phase/

I. Introduction phase/

8-Association towards LFB

II. Problem centred phase/

7a-Determination of National II. Problem centred phase/ FB

7-Determination of LFB

6b-characteristics of attractivness

4-Criteria and needs of Fashion purchase

this category refers to statements about the needs and requirements of brands in general and fashion brands especially.

3a-Needs regarding Brands

4

this category refers to all statements about the meaning of fashion or fashion brands related to oneself or society. Under consideration that any statement/estimation is an expression of desire/needs, this category presents first insights of respondents (fashion) needs.

3-Meaning regarding fashion I. Introduction phase/

are displayed in combination with the first associations (category 5) to the associative semantic network finally.

this category refers to statements about the determination and distinction of national fashion brands against local fashion brands in terms of description but in the first place in terms of concrete allocation to a the fashion brand. this category collects all statements about ideas, beliefs and imaginings considering local fashion brands which

this category refers to statements about the subjective cognition of a local fashion brand by showing the respondent real fashion brand logos and fashion brand names during the interview. Thus, sub-categories present respondents statements about concrete, real illustrated but possible local fashion brands.

this category refers to statements about the question, which attributes and characteristics reflect/ deal with a high attractivness of a fashion brand.

this category refers to statements of respondents first time mentioned association towards local fashion brands. This category makes reference to its explorative, inductive subcategories, which reflects the relevant-set of associations towards local fashion brands. this category refers to statements about the attributes, characteristics and variables, which can be allocate to local fashion brands. this category refers to statements about the question, which attributes and characteristics a fashion brand should have, in order to be perceived with a high reputation.

this category refers to statements about relevant key factors referring to fashion purchase. This category makes reference to its explorative, inductive subcategories such as: a relevant criteria of fashion purchase is: ´the design and look´, or ´a long duration of the fashion product´.

statements give an idea about the characteristics of German Fashion Design.

3

I. Introduction phase/

2-Association with German Fashion Design

I. Introduction phase/

1a-Fashion Involvement

MEMO

this category refers to statements about respondents own personality and cultural background, his experience and his prejudice/ bias, which is characterised by critical (positive and negative) statements of the respondent.

Definition of Category/Code

1-Personal preconditions and I. Introduction phase/ prejudice

Phase Structural Interview Guide due to Leading Research Question

CODING STRUCTURE

2

1

No. Codesystem

56

30

259

15

17

449

37

157

101

105

61

110

196

2.470

CODINGS

122 3. Empirical Research and Method Approach

III. Reflective phase/ III. Reflective phase/

13-Attitude towards attributes of LFB

14-Relevant attributes for purchase intention of LFB

15-Signals and symbols of LFB

16-Appraisal of LFB benefit and cognitive bias

16a-Threats regarding LB

13

14

15

16

Table 21: Development and Definition of Categories

19-Target Groups of LFB with III. Reflective phase/ positive attitude

20-Local Brands implement in III. Reflective phase/ big fashion companies

19

20

III. Reflective phase/

18-Influencing marketing variables on LFB perception

18

III. Reflective phase/

17-Individual and cultural impact on LFB perception

III. Reflective phase/

17

16d-Weakness of LB

16b-Opportunities regarding III. Reflective phase/ LB 16c-Strength of LB III. Reflective phase/

III. Reflective phase/

III. Reflective phase/

III. Reflective phase/

12-Basic attitude towards LFB II. Problem centred phase/

12

II. Problem centred phase/

11-Purchasing motives towards LB

9-Determination of II. Problem centred phase/ international and global FB 9a-Characteristics Attributes II. Problem centred phase/ of IFB/GB 10-Emotions towards LB II. Problem centred phase/

11

10

9

this category refers to statements about the positioning and implementation of local fashion brands in big fashion business corporation.

this category refers to statements about alleged target groups of local fashion brands. A positive local-fashionbrand-attitude is the most relevant indicator of possible local fashion target groups, which are illustrated by Subcategories.

this category collects all statements about mentioned influencing marketing operations such as price-marketing, distribution-marketing, promotion-marketing and product-marketing, which have an impact on the perception of local brands.

this category refers to statements about significant personal or cultural effects. This category narrows down and specifiies distinct aspects of the category 1 (personal preconditions).

19

10

15

78

13

17

68

this category refers to statements about the strength and advantages of Local Brands and Local Fashion Brands. These advantages draw on the „characteristics and attributes of LB“. this category refers to statements about the weaknesses and disadvantages of Local Brands and Local Fashion Brands. These disadvantages draw on the „characteristics and attributes of LB“.

16

38

31

23

183

27

69

47

14

209

this category refers to statements about the potential and opportunities concerning Local Fashion Brands.

this category refers to statements, which show threats, obstacles, confounding factors and risks a Local Fashion Brand won´t be purchased respectively.

this category refers to statements about positive statements and negative statements considering the economical, ecological or social, cultural benefit of local fashion brands.

this category refers to statements about the question, which kind of signals and marketing symbols relates to a local-brand-perception.

this category refers to statements, which given attributes and characterisitics are needed, in order to prompt a positive purchase decision.

this category refers to statements about the attitude towards discovered characteristics and attributes of local fashion brands (category 6), their direction (positive/ negative/ neutral) and their intensity (high, mid, low).

this category refers to the statement about a positive, negative or neutral basic attitude towards local fashion brands. This category is conducive to connect these statements with other main categories.

this category refers to statements about the personal purchasing reasons and causes of the respondents to buy a local fashion brand. Motives are strongly interconnected with emotions and needs.

this category refers to statements, which shows and expose emotions of the respondent towards local fashion brands.

this category refers to statements about the subjective cognition of an international or global fashion brand by showing the candidate real fashion brand logos and fashion brand names. this category refers to statements about the attributes, which can be allocate to local fashion brands.

3. Empirical Research and Method Approach 123

124

3.3.4

3. Empirical Research and Method Approach

Quantitative Study

3.3.4.1 Research Approach of Social Media Analytics In light of a sequential Mixed-Method-Design (QUAL  quan.), the results of the predominantly qualitative study are complemented by the quantitative research approach of Social Media Analytics. Thus, the research approach, and especially the refined quantitative research questions, are influenced by the results, conclusions, and insights of the predominate qualitative analysis (with reference to figure 6 - Application and Process of Empirical Research Methods, chapter 3.3). Therefore, the quantitative research approach is based on insights within the qualitative investigation. To ensure a better readability a brief summarised illustration of those qualitative results follows, which influence the method approach of the supplement quantitative study. Consequently, insights of the qualitative analysis recognize and illustrate that both the education level and value orientation influence the respondents’ attitude towards local fashion brands. The qualitative analysis results in the distinction of three positiveattitude-groups, which are then characterised by a distinguished combination of education level (high-educated, low-/ mid-educated) and value orientation (traditional, modern, realign). In this context, on one hand, the respondents’ perception of a high affiliation to the local fashion brands’ origin affects his attitude towards the brand. On the other hand, the perception of a low local fashion brands coverage or reach is not without effect on the respondents’ attitude. Both the perception of a high affiliation to the origin and the perception of a low coverage lead to a determination of eight local fashion brands, in a narrow sense, in a distinct German fashion cultural context. Thus, mentioned groups are characterised by the same positive local-fashion brand basic attitude. However, this positive basic attitude is attributed to different purchase intention and purchase motivations based on the previously mentioned educationlevel/ value-orientation combination. In summary, the following positive basic attitude groups towards local fashion brands were selected due to the qualitative analysis (chapter 6) and clustered by education level and value orientation: A. Guardians (traditional value orientation/ low- and mid- education level) B. Intellectual (modern value orientation/ high education level) C. Realigns (realignment value orientation/ low-, mid-, high education level) Figure 15 illustrates the positioning and respondent’s cluster based on value orientation and education level.

3. Empirical Research and Method Approach

125

Figure 15: Cluster of Positive-Attitude-Groups due to Local Fashion Brands (with reference to Sinus Milieus)

Further, statements of presented positive attitude groups are analysed by evaluating the strongest purchase motivation due to local fashion brands based on a basic positive attitude. Subsequently, causal relationships and coherence of positiveattitude-group-respondents (A, B, C) and corresponding purchase motivations are analysed by considering the specific local fashion brand value and benefit to the consumer. The following, table 22, presents the results gained from the qualitative analysis (chapter 4), which insights are implemented into the supplement quantitative investigation. In the next step, these results lead to the refinement of research questions, which are then analysed by subsequent and supplement quantitative research approach.

126

3. Empirical Research and Method Approach

Cluster

LFB benefit

Education Level

Value Basis

Basic LFB Attitude

Symbolic trigger of Purchase Motivation

LFB purchase intention

Social Media attracted

A

symbolic/ functional

low/mid

traditional

positive

Guard own region

passive

low

B

functional/ symbolic

high

modern

positive

Knowledge display/ Against the global play

passive

mid

C1

symbolic/ functional

low-/ mid

realign

positive

Cheer the LFB personality

active

high

C2

functional/ symbolic

high

realign

positive

Support the LFB performance

active

high

Table 22: Basic Results Cluster of Positive-Attitude-Groups Focussing on the main research question, regarding the impact of perceived brand localness on consumers’ attitude, the cluster C (LFB-Realigns) meets the requirements of sample selection due to the supplementary quantitative analysis the most, by respecting the following aspects of this cluster:  Positive basic attitude towards local fashion brands,  Strong positive, active affective affiliation towards the local fashion brands origin, which is attributed to the appreciation towards the LFB performance (high-educated realigns) and to the appreciation towards the LFB creator/ designer (low-/mideducated realigns). Even though the high-educated realigns predominately perceive a functional LFB benefit, both realigned cluster perceive a strong positive symbolic brand benefit and brand value of a local fashion brand.  Active purchase intention due to a clearer LFB benefit and value; on the basis of supporting, promoting and cheering a local fashion brand,  Higher social media attraction. The importance of a symbolic added value considering a fashion brand is previously considered in chapter 1. In terms of the positive local fashion attitude group C, The Realigns can be constituted by a stronger purchase motivation, stronger positive emotional affiliation towards LFB, and especially a higher social media attraction level. Consequently, the quantitative research study is based on mentioned relevant data taking account of the positive local fashion brand attitude group C “The Realigns”. Thus, to gain deeper insights regarding the aforementioned research question, the data collection for the subsequent quantitative analysis is approached by social media sources. Subsequently, data capturing via the quantitative research approach refers to the following social media sources or social media platforms providing unstructured text data such as: Facebook data, fashion-blog data, reviews data, twitter data, news data and data of panel or fashion forums.

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Considering all mentioned data sources within the data capturing process ensures that all relevant data sources is implemented due to the research question with respect to the given social media channels. Accordingly, the importance of a clear definition of data sources due to the quantitative analysis is considered in the Chapter 3.3.4.6. With the goal of focussing the research questions, Social Media Analytics is applied to derive measurable outcomes and to generalise and/or complement mentioned qualitative findings. Taking into account that the “IBM Social Media Analytics” constituted an analytic text mining tool, and therefore providing the opportunity to conduct a quantitative analysis of unstructured texts, it is a suitable analytical method applied to this investigation. IBM Watson for Social Media Analytics (WASM) is the newest and most advanced analysing tool for consumer behaviour. It can be used to analyse the impact of social media on a wide range of critical marketing functions. Thus, it serves for this investigation as an analysing supporting tool to produce further results based on the given research question. The researcher built up a network of the leading architects of IBM Watson for Social Media; and according to his expert status in the field of consumer behaviour, (trend) fashion marketing, and Social Media Analytics, it is assumed that insights of the investigation will have a relevant contribution to the development of Social Media Analytics. Thus, the targeted research question is narrowed down and analysed by the application of a quantitative Social Media Analytics tool using a text mining method in sequential combination with the predominant qualitative data analysis by means of problem-centred interviews. Depicted quantitative research approach and insights of the qualitative study lead to refining research questions explained by the subsequent quantitative analysis. Given general insights generated by the qualitative analysis, some additional specific gained insights need to explain the approach of refined research questions targeting the quantitative analysis. The latter is illustrated in chapter 3.3.4.2. 3.3.4.2 Refinement of Research Questions The preliminary qualitative main study investigates the consumers’ perception of local fashion brands by considering consumers’ preconditioned fashion involvement, his local fashion brand associations, determination of local fashion brands, emotions, motive structure, and attitude towards local fashion brands. The analysis of these constructs is conducted and illustrated in chapter 4. To provide a better readability it is appropriate to partly anticipate the outcome of the initial qualitative study at this stage of the investigation. Even though it is not common practice to provide insights of the initial main qualitative study in a methodological chapter, the presentation of relevant influencing insights and the quantitative method approach serve to gain a better understanding regarding the further methodological

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approach of the quantitative study with respect to the explorative sequential mixedmethod design. Hence, the ascertainment and advancement of the key research question remains comprehensible. Thus, in light of the qualitative study, the following five relevant specific insights are needed to be considered with respect to the refinement of the quantitative research question, subsequent quantitative sample selection, and quantitative data collection: a) Respondents/ Consumers Local fashion brand determination: The determination of a local fashion brand is mainly attributed to the individual perceived origin and individual perceived reach/coverage of the brand. Additionally, statements are considered regarding the construct of a regional brand or the respondents’ brands association towards its German origin. However, the perception of a region’s origin, such as Berlin or even Germany, depends on its perceived located fashion product production or its perceived located brand design origin. As a result, the following fashion brands are determined as a local fashion brand in a narrow sense (sensu stricto) and considered as a basis for the following sample structure: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Blutsgeschwister Derbe Herr von Eden Lala Berlin Liebeskind Berlin März München Seidensticker Bonnie Strange, The Shit Shop

The list of perceived local fashion brands might be reworked based on the different use of the local fashion brand’s name as a term in social media. The term “strange”, as part of the local fashion brand ´Bonnie Strange´, is often used by the social media community as an expression for “uncommon”. Using such expressions might lead to an impure social media database when considering the social media model and its implementation/ application. b) Respondents/ Consumers higher fashion involvement: The higher fashion involvement consumer was recognised by the qualitative analysis with a likely higher positive attitude towards local fashion brands. This special attribute is considered on the basis of the supplement quantitative analysis. c) Respondents with a positive attitude towards local fashion brands: The following 3 positive attitude groups in terms of a higher fashion involvement, different level of education, and value orientation are recognised by the qualitative analysis. These attitude groups are illustrated in detail in chapter 4:

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a. (A) Group of respondents, characterized by a low-/mid- education level with traditional value orientation, which determines The Traditional LFB Guardians. b. (B) Group of respondents, characterized by a high education level with modern value orientation, which reflects The Modern, Elevated LFB Intellectuals. c. (C) Group of respondents characterized by a high-/mid-/ and low education level with realign value orientation = The LFB Realigns. According to the results of consumers’ different purchase motivation (chapter 4), the most “imperative, relevant, and motivational clear” positive attitude group, which might have the social media power potential advocating local fashion brands refers to the “LFB Realigns”, characterized by the realign value-oriented consumers. d) Respondents/ Consumer with stronger (intrinsic) purchase motivation benefit from the symbolic value regarding local fashion brands. The realign group trusts the sustainable local offer and production process as a symbol for their (intrinsic) lifestyle/value orientation reflecting change and realignment. Considering these positive attitude groups, “The LFB Realigns” are evaluated by the qualitative study with the strongest intrinsic local fashion brand purchase motivation (referring to category purchase motivation towards local-fashion-brands, see chapter 4) and social media power potential. Although the purchase motivation of realign fashion consumer towards fashion in general is characterized by an extrinsic motivation aspect of wanting to be accepted as part of a social group, this realign group purchase motivation towards local fashion brands is predominantly attributed to the intrinsic motivational aspect of autonomy, self-determination and realignment/change. Regarding chapter 4 purchase motivation towards LFB, these admired perceived attributes and characteristics of local fashion brands are attributed to and came along with the value-system of the realign group. The realign group is strongly lead by the value of self-determination, such as stated appreciation for a self-made, hand-crafted, high-quality creation. Furthermore, it is guided by the exploration and new synthesis, such as statements about not having the same me-too global fashion brands. Finally, the realign group is headed by the value of new-orientation, as revealed by statements about the perception of a transparent local brand’s managing of a sustainable fashion production process. This context stresses the strong intrinsic purchase motivations of the positive attitude realign group due to local fashion brands. In this context, it is relevant to mention for the methodology of the upcoming quantitative text mining and Social Media investigation that male realigns respondents perceive local fashion brands almost unreservedly with a positive attitude and a strong purchase motivation.

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On the contrary, female realigns respondents evaluate local fashion brands positively (positive basic attitude towards local fashion brands) but scrutinise and struggle with this positive attitude by emphasizing the “staid design”, i.e. “conservative fashion design approach”, which does not gain acceptance from the international fashion community. e) Respondents/ Consumers with professional relationship towards fashion segment: Some respondents of the Realign-Group have a strong professional relationship towards the fashion business. The respondents are characterised by the homogenous attribute of higher fashion involvement from their profession in fashion. These respondents are mentioned as professional fashion people regardless of their education level. These insights serve to refine the following quantitative research questions, which benefit to supplement the qualitative analysis and to gain additional measurable outcome by the quantitative analysis and social media analytics, respectively. No.

Research Question –Attitude and Gender -

1

a) Can the general positive attitude of the realign fashion group be validated? b) If there are negative comments towards local fashion brands, do female Realign fashion users speak more negatively/ biased about local fashion brands than male fashion users?

Table 23: Research Question Gender due to Quantitative Study The first refined quantitative research question addresses the general basic attitude of the realign sample as well as a different gender perspective due to PFBL. This might be answered by a sentiment analysis due to the Watson for social media tool. No.

Research Question – support or advocate -

2

a) Do the realign fashion users support local fashion brands by characterizing them positively? b) Do realign fashion users even recommend local fashion brands?

Table 24: Research Question Support or Advocacy for Quantitative Study The second refined quantitative research question focuses on the supporting, recommending or even advocating character of the realign fashion consumer. No.

Research Question – premium price -

3

Is the Realign fashion user willing to pay a price premium for the perceived sustainability and/or background of a local fashion brand?

Table 25: Research Question Premium Price due to Quantitative Study

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The third refined quantitative research question considers realign fashion consumers price willingness with regard to the LFB characteristic of sustainability and story background of a LFB. No.

Research Question – market segment -

4

Do the Realign fashion users have a stronger positive relationship and a higher affiliation towards local fashion brands due to the menswear segment (illustrated by the local fashion brand Herr von Eden), the specialist segment (Seidensticker, derbe, Maerz München) or the womenswear segment (Lala Berlin, Liebeskind Berlin, Blutsgeschwister)?

Table 26: Research Question Market Segment due to Quantitative Study The fourth refined quantitative research question focuses on the relationship of a realign fashion consumers with a specific fashion product market segment. 3.3.4.3 Quantitative Sample Selection 3.3.4.3.1 Framework due to Quantitative Sample Selection The following criteria can be stated as a basis for the quantitative sample selection: 1. Positive Attitude group of local fashion brands. 2. High Fashion Involvement 3. Higher Social Media Attraction The realign group is discovered as a positive-attitude-group towards local fashion brands as determined by a high fashion involvement and higher social media attraction. Thus, the characteristics of the Realign-group, both high-educated and mid/low- educated groups are chosen as a basis for the sample of the quantitative analysis and Social Media Analysis, respectively. In summary, the following characteristics can be stated with regard to the Realigngroup as a relevant input for the quantitative methodology: a) Positive basic attitude towards local fashion brands (chapter 4.2). b) Higher purchase motivation considering local fashion brands based on not only appreciation for the creator and his creation, craftsmanship and courage, but also based on the local fashion brand’s trustworthiness and sustainability, which is transparent due to the supply chain and the individuality of the product with affiliation to the region, as illustrated by a convincing brand story (chapter 4.2). c) A frequent usage of social media. Given all positive LFB attitude groups, the realign group has the highest rate of interactive social media usage (chapter 4.2) d) A high interest of fashion trends at the earliest stage of fashion trend communication corresponding to the period of January until March due to a fall/ winter fashion season, which validates the high-fashion involvement, and value orientation of realign and its curiosity for trends. Additionally, the high-fashion involvement of the

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realign group is validated by recognising the strong corresponding trend adoption behaviour at an early stage of fashion trend purchase chapter 4.2. e) A distinct characteristic of local fashion brands is their product and price positioning. On one hand, the local fashion brand product positioning is perceived due to menswear (Herr von Eden), Womenswear (Lala Berlin, Liebeskind Berlin, Blutsgeschwister, The Shit Shop – Bonnie Strange), Fashion Specialists (Seidensticker, Maerz München, Derbe). On the other hand, the perceived price positioning is allocated due to luxury/premium local fashion labels (Lala Berlin, Herr von Eden), premium-prices (Seidensticker, Maerz München), mid-prices (Liebeskind Berlin), and low/mid-prices (Blutsgeschwister). The following table presents relevant criteria and characteristics with respect to the framework of the quantitative sample selection. Level of Fashion involvement

high

Value Orientation

Realign

See & Talk about FW Fashion Trends

January – March

Table 27: Framework due to Sample Selection of Quantitative Study The framework of quantitative sample selection leads to a clear determination of sample selection. 3.3.4.3.2 Quantitative Sample Selection due to Social Media Analytics Based on previously mentioned preconditions, the basic population (N1) is characterized by 30.233 consumer mentions, which are then collected and filtered by IBM Watson based on the selected topic “Local fashion brands” and the following criteria: a) Determined local fashion brands: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Blutsgeschwister Derbe Herr von Eden Liebeskind Berlin Lala Berlin Maerz München Seidensticker The Shit - Bonnie Strange.

b) Relevant time period: The trend communication period from the Fall/ Winter 2017 fashion season is determined as a relevant time period because fashion trend suppliers start fashion

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trend communication from 01´st January until 31´st March 2017, with respect to a fall/winter 2017 fashion season. The basic population is characterised by an unstructured database. Text Mining is the underlying method of quantitative analysis of this investigation, which leverages the analysis of an unstructured text database. Subsequently, to avoid an imprecise sample database, the basic population is purified (N2) by reworking and cleansing:  Excluding languages Arabic, Portuguese, Chinese, Spanish. 
  Elimination of the expression derbe and Bonnie Strange due to topic selection. The local fashion brands derbe and The Shit Shop – Bonnie Strange are eliminated after recognizing the high number of misuse of these expressions. As an example, the term derbe is highly used as an expression for a superlative in the German language. The consideration of the local fashion brand derbe would lead to misjudgement of results within the sample selection.  Elimination of wrong spelling of the local fashion brand Liebeskind Berlin such as “Libeskind”, a renowned American architect.  Excluding keywords that do not belong to the topic of local fashion brands and could lead to an impure database. The following keywords are excluded: “Architect“, ”City“, “Roman”, “Mainz”, “Music”, “Soccer”. 
 Table 28 presents the population base (N1), cleansed population (N2) and final quantitative sample (n) selection: Number of mentions N1

30.233

N2

7.229

Sample (n)

2.710

Table 28: Quantitative Sample Selection On one hand, the theme selection of realign-fashion consumer, which corresponds to the results of the qualitative analysis (chapter 6.1.4), is implemented. Theme selection draws on the LFB characteristics of realign-fashion consumers as follows: (1) High quality (2) Personal (3) Hand-crafted (which contains the expression ´small and accurate´, for example) (4) Origin (5) Transparent (6) Not-modern (7) sustainable (8) Higher Price willingness (9) Coverage

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(10) Good (marketing) story. On the other hand, the quantitative sample selection considers the fashion trend communication period of a realign-fashion consumer during a Fall/Winter fashion collection (1st January – 31st March). For the fall/winter 2017 fashion season, the fashion product life cycle begins 1st June 2017 (market entry and introduction stage) and ends 31st December 2017 (decline stage of the fashion product life cycle). Within this period, the realign-consumer communicates about the new fashion trends during a spring/summer 2018 season rather than communicating about the distributed fashion products in the wholesale or retail fashion market. As a result of mentioned sample selection process, the sample is based on 2.710 social media mentions. 3.3.4.4 Method of Analysis due to Text Mining Process According to Moro et al. (2014), text mining is particularly conceived as searching for patterns in texts, which are rather unstructured (Moro, Cortez, Rita (2014), p. 1315.). Due to Feldman and Sanger (2006), the most frequently encountered forms of patterns are represented by Distribution and Proportion, Frequent Sets and Associations (Feldman and Sanger, 2006). The latter might be the most important aspect with respect to the research question considering the impact of perceived brand localness on consumers’ brand association. The method of analysis is based on text mining. Text mining is a (predominately quantitative) computer-aided text content analysis. Given 80% of information and data exists in form of text, it is an important analytic tool for science and practice (Sharafi, 2013, p. 80). Text mining is about the analysis of unstructured data. The foremost objective of text mining is the acquisition of knowledge from such information, which are then constituted by the analysed documents and statements. Given the text mining analysis approach, this investigation uses Watson Analytics for Social Media, which is a software tool by IBM to interpret natural social media user language uninfluenced by a questionnaire. Based on the local fashion brand social media model configuration, which is then built up based on gained insights of the predominate qualitative main investigation of this research, Watson identifies sentiments of the realign-fashion-user and patterns due to the preferences of specific fashion market segments primarily by using cluster analysis and pattern analysis. Hence, due to the analysis by means of text mining correlations, relationships are recognised and presented automatically (Heyer et al., 2012, p. 17). Additionally, the automatic classification of social media accounts (Facebook or Twitter, for example) to the corresponding gender is used to examine if female consumer has more of a negative attitude towards the design and look of local fashion brands as opposed to male fashion consumer (refined research question based on

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chapter 5.4.3). In summary, text mining is defined as “... the discovery and extraction of interesting, non-trivial knowledge from free or unstructured text. This encompasses everything from information retrieval (i.e., document or website retrieval) to text classification and clustering, to (somewhat more recently) entity, relation, and event extraction” (Kao & Poteet, 2010, p. 1). The process of text mining draws on five phases (Hippner & Rentzmann 2006, S. 288), which is illustrated by figure 16 below:

Task definition/ Research objective

Source-/ Document selection

Source-/ Document conditioning

Methods

Interpretation/ Evaluation

Figure 16: Process of Text Mining (referring to Hippner & Rentzmann, 2006, p. 288)

In a first process step, the text mining objectives are defined corresponding to the research objectives of the social media analysis. Subsequently, documents and social media sources are selected regarding/ considering their relevance and importance to the research objective. Finally, in a third step of the process, documents are preprocessed to expedite the Text-Mining-analysis process. In this context, Tokenization and Part-of-Speech-Tagging must be mentioned. Tokenization is one of the most important tools for pre-processing documents; it is a segmentation method selecting texts in appropriate units such as words, phrases, or sentences for the upcoming analysis by eliminating punctuation marks (Sharafi 2013, p. 85). As an example, it seeks to remove ambiguity such as the exclamation mark, which is part of the name of the German brand Joop!. Part-of-Speech-Tagging refers to statistic and rule-based practice/ procedure options. Due to the statistical method, the allocation/ assignment of a collected word towards a word class (part of speech) is based on likelihoods. However, rule-based procedures allocate words to the corresponding tag (part of speech). Heyer et al (2012, p. 133) state an accuracy of 97% for both procedures. The text mining tool of IBM, which provides the basis of the WATSON IBM for Social Media Analytics tool, draws on statistical procedures (IBM, 2010, p. 1). A deeper examination of document conditioning and text mining methods is presented in Carstensen et al. (2010). In the next step, the conditioned documents are analysed by text mining methods focussing on clustering method, association analysis, and pattern analysis. Cluster analysis is applied as a method of text mining analysis by sort/ cluster words, documents, or mentions by considering content similarity. Mentions with a high degree of content similarity are sorted to a cluster.

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The similarity of the documents and user mentions result from the relative frequencies (f) of the term, the number of documents or mentions containing the term, and the entire quantity of documents/ mentions. A vector is created for each document and represented in a vector space. The smaller the angle between the vectors of the documents, the more the content of the documents or mentions bear a resemblance. Thus, those documents/ mentions, which vectors have a similar angle and similar function are located in the same cluster (Sharafi, 2013, S. 89 f.). The cluster analysis distinguishes between hierarchical and non-hierarchical procedures; for a deeper examination, Sharafi (2013, p. 70ff) might be adduced. The pattern analysis searches for pre-determined pattern in texts and mentions applying regular expressions. Regular expressions consist of atoms and operators. In this context, atoms draw on words, strings, alphabetic-characters or numbers. Given the definition of regular expressions, it is applicable to search for words with arbitrary length, which start or end with a distinct character-string. The beginning or ending of the word then matches the pattern retrieving for corresponding words. For a deeper examination, Heyer et al. (2013, p. 198ff), who present possible definitions of operators and character-strings, might be adduced. Finally, results of the quantitative analysing process are evaluated and interpreted in chapter 4. 3.3.4.5 Model Configuration due to Social Media Analytics Building the social media model is the core task for the upcoming data collection, analysis, visualisation, and conclusion of the quantitative research method. Based on the sample selection, the developed social media model basically presents the concept and configuration based on:  The targeted data, which is needed to capture information about the sample selection, determined by local fashion brands in a narrow sense, and corresponding local-fashion-brand characteristics as well as fall/ winter 2017 fashion trends.  The corresponding social media channels, which draw on Facebook data, fashionblogs data, data from consumers reviews from fashion retailer e-commerce, twitter data, and forums.  The edited data which is then visualised to provide new insights,  The data analysis and conclusion, which might change the data input (data collection) and lead to an iterative model update process. Figure 17 presents the aforementioned social media model, which is developed throughout this investigation.

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Figure 17: Developed Social Media Analytics Model Corresponding to the illustrated social media model, the following process and workflow of social media analytics can be constituted: 1. Pre-Consideration due to preconditions of the base population 2. Creating the social media project and configuration of the model due to the corresponding refined research questions: a. Specification of the topic Local fashion brands by including determined and reworked local fashion brands including Liebeskind Berlin, Lala Berlin, Blutsgeschwister, Herr von Eden, Derbe, Maerz München, Seidensticker. b. Rework and distinguish the topic by including terms (e.g. Libeskind Berlin) and excluding context terms (e.g. Architect). This ensures that user mentions are still collected, which are then attributed to the fashion brand Liebeskind Berlin but spelled incorrectly. c. Specification of the data collection. The retrieval of unstructured social media data is specified by the type of social media sources such as Facebook, Blogs (fashion-blogs), Reviews, Twitter, video comments, forums and news. The social media source News refers to social media statements of magazines or newspapers written by journalist or bloggers; these social media comments/ posts are considered in this investigation because it is common for journalists to state frequently their estimation/ opinion/ attitude towards fashion brands corresponding to their own consumer experience.

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d. Specification of the date range of the data retrieval and collection, which considers the fashion trend entry period of the fall winter 2017 season (01´st January – 31 March 2017). This period is attributed to the sample selection referring to both the realign fashion consumer and social media user. He primarily communicates about fashion trends in this period. In this context, the earliest stage of fashion trend communication is constituted by the period from January until March regarding a new fall/ winter collection, which then enters the market in June/July. For example, fashion trends considering a new fall/winter 2017 fashion-season are communicated at fashion fairs in the beginning of the year 2017 (January – February 2017); these fall/winter 2017 fashion trends enter the fashion retail market (Point of Sale) in June 2017. Previously mentioned fashion fairs. such as the Premium Berlin or CPD in Düsseldorf. constitute the official starting point of a new fashion season in Germany, which are just accessible by fashion trade professionals and fashion expert audiences. 9

e. Specification and definition of themes, which provide more clarity in the analysis and process validity. Themes draw on the gained characteristics of local fashion brands due to the results of the qualitative investigation, such as ´high-quality´. 3. Data retrieval and collection due to basic configuration 4. Cluster analysis and model/pattern analysis with respect to the iterative model update process. Based on the model setup and configuration of the text mining analysis and Social Media analysis and begins by using cluster analysis and model/ pattern analysis. Mentioned analysis uses Tokenization and Part-of-SpeechTagging as pre-processing instruments. 5. Analysis and interpretation of gained Insights and model visualization. 6. Feedback loop, which offers data interpretation and a rework of the data base on data analysis and gained insights. 3.3.4.6 Data Collection The data collection is based on the insights of the sample selection and social media model building. Associations towards fashion brands due to the coverage and origin of a fashion brand are a relevant common topic, which society discusses in a broad and deep social media context. Subsequently data capturing due to the quantitative research approach refers to consumers reaction on RSS Feeds presumably presenting their corporate claim of

9

Since 2016, the street & urban fashion fair Bread&Butter offers a new fashion fair concept, which is accessible to the fashion consumer. Until 2016, Bread&Butter was one of the most important Street & urban fashion fairs j accessible exclusively in Europe.

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fashion suppliers, fashion blogs conducted by fashion opinion leader, consumers reviews at relevant online-fashion-suppliers such as Amazon or Zalando, consumers re-posts and text-content due to Facebook data conducted by fashion suppliers and magazines or posted by involved Facebook target groups, or consumer responses in the form of Twitter data for example (Foscht & Swoboda, 2011, p. 94f). Thus, the following five aspects of data collection are considered to validate the research process: 1. Time period of data collection considering Fall/Winter 2017 fashion season (January- March 2017) 2. Product-segment-input considering respondents’ determination of local fashion brands due to menswear, womenswear, and fashion specialist. 3. Fashion-season-input considering Fall/Winter 2017 fashion trends. 4. Sample-selection-characteristics-input considering stated characteristics by realign respondents’ due to local fashion brands. 5. Selection and choice of relevant social media channels Firstly, the period of data collection refers to the fashion trend entry period of the fall winter 2017 season (01´st January – 31 March 2017). The realign fashion consumer and high-fashion involvement user communicates on social media platforms about these new fashion trends. During the fall/winter 2017 fashion season, the newest trends and collection innovations are presented at the Berlin fashion fair from 17´th until 19´th of January 2017. The market entry point of a traditional fashion collection is attributed to the suppliers’ delivery date to the fashion wholesale segment. The delivery date essentially refers to June/ July as the market entry point of a fall/ winter fashion main season. The subsequent collection life cycle presents the five phases of a fall/ winter collection 2017 with regard to the trend communication in January 2017. Secondly, the data collection considers the differentiation of fashion product segments (womenswear, menswear, specialist/ sportswear) and price-segments (Low-/Mid price segment, Mid-/Premium-price segment, high-price segment, which is attributed to the premium/luxury price segment). The high price segment draws on the luxury and premium price segment for this investigation (Lasslop, 2005). The allocation of a fashion brand towards a distinct price class is a dynamic process. The allocation of a fashion brand to the luxury fashion segment depends on the perception of the consumer due to an impact-orientated perspective (Dubois and Paternault, 1995, p. 71). Based on this perspective (Dubois et al., 2001), the following attributes characterize the perceived core of a luxury fashion brand: premium price perception, excellence in quality perception due to fabrics and production processing, perceived exclusiveness, premium aesthetic, continual historic premium design approach, and no-necessity. As

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an example, the German designer label Jil Sander is undoubtedly perceived as a luxury fashion brand, which is originated in Germany/ Hamburg (chapter 3.4) . Additionally, a high recognition of the brand’s fashion performance at international fashion shows such as Paris, New York, London or Milan must be mentioned for the premium and luxury fashion segment. Even though fashion brands such as Louis Vuitton and Burberry are allocated to this segment, it is obvious that, especially in the German market, these brands are achievable by low and mid-social class consumers because of the fact that some product segments (such as accessories) have a premium-price strategy rather than a luxury fashion strategy. Another example that explains the aforementioned dynamic aspect of consumers’ perception of luxury and premium brands price positioning is the new CEO of the fashion brand Hugo Boss announcing the change from a luxury fashion strategy to a premium-price fashion strategy in 2017 (Hackenberg, 2017). The following tables presents the allocation of respondents’ determination of local fashion brands. Local brand name

Perceived Price segment

Collection/ Range Focus

Liebeskind Berlin

Mid

Womenswear Segment

Lala Berlin

High

Womenswear Segment

Blutsgeschwister

Low-/ Mid

Womenswear Segment

Table 29: Local Fashion Brands due to Womenswear and Price Segment Local brand name

Perceived Price segment

Collection/ Range Focus

Herr von Eden

High

Menswear Segment

Table 30: Local Fashion Brands due to Menswear and Price Segment Local brand name

Perceived Price segment

Collection/ Range Focus

Maerz München

Mid-/High

Specialist Segment, Knitwear

Seidensticker

Mid-/High

Specialist Segment, Shirts

Table 31: Local Fashion Brands due to Fashion Specialists and Price Segment Thirdly, to ensure a high validation of the research process, the data collection focuses on fall/ winter fashion trends in 2017. The fashion period from January until March 2017 is characterized by the fashion trend communication of supplier and fashion (social media) users due to investigated fall/winter 2017 collection. Furthermore, this period is characterized by fashion suppliers’ first delivery date to the fashion wholesale during the spring/ summer 2017 season. Professional fashion journals, such as Vogue Germany, Elle, Madame, specialist fashion magazines such as DMI, Textilwirtschaft and corresponding fashion blogs, announce fashion trends for fall/winter in the temporal course of German fall/ winter fashion exhibitions taking place in January 2017.

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The following fashion trends are considered to configure the social media model retrieving and targeted data collection. Trend themes

Fashion brand

The ready to wear look

Maerz München

Drucke/ Prints

Gerry Weber

Cherry blossom, Badges, broches, embroidery

Liebeskind Berlin, Gerry Weber, More&More

new sleeve form, trumpet sleeves

Seidensticker Olymp

Boyfriend Style, Menswear pattern, Glen Check

Mac Herr von Eden

Light Military

Eduard Dressler

Sportive Sweatshirts

Bandolera

Samt, Velvet, Velour

Liebeskind Berlin

New blouse forms

Maerz München

Denim Overall

Maerz München

Boxy Pullover and jackets

Maerz München

Scuba fabric

Gerry Weber

Table 32: Fashion Trend Input Womenswear and Specialist F/W 2017 Trend themes

Fashion brand

Seventies, 70íes

Herr von Eden

Check pattern

Herr von Eden

Sportswear, Athleisure

Hugo Boss

Velvet

Hugo Boss

Athleisure

derbe

Workwear, Grunge

derbe

subtle check, fine stripes

Herr von Eden

Big shirt cuff

Seidensticker

Waist coats

Hugo Boss

Table 33: Fashion Trend Input Menswear and Specialist F/W 2017 These fashion trends are the conversational basis for the high fashion involvement respondent to recognize and perceive and communicate with other fashion interest consumers or fashion blogger throughout different social media platforms from January until March 2017. Fourthly, the characteristics of local fashion brands were examined considering their relevance (purchase motivation) due to the respondents with higher, mid and low education as well as realign value orientation.

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According to all LFB characteristics stated by the realign respondents, ten local fashion brand characteristic-groups are subsequently clustered. These clusters are implemented into the social media model by configuring the following WATSONThemes. Thus, the following characteristics and attributes are a basis for the social media model, which serves as input variable (theme) concerning the data collection using WATSON for Social Media Analytics (WASM): 1. High-quality. High-quality in terms of a perceived premium workmanship and processing, premium fit, premium pattern, premium fabric. 2. Sustainable. Sustainable in terms of a perceived sustainable production, fair sustainability, ecological sustainability, acceptance of responsibility, ethical behaviour during the production process, 3. Artisanal. Artisanal in terms of a perceived handcrafted, traditional, authentic tangible performance. 4. Transparent. Transparent in terms of perceived trustworthiness, faithful, honest, and understandable textile production conditions and production process by a perceived closeness/ proximity to the region and creator. 5. Clear (brand) story. Clear brand story in terms of perceived realistic, captivating, understandable origin and identity of the region and/or designer. 6. Affiliation to Origin. Affiliation to the brand’s origin in terms of a perceived clear origins identity, affinity, high affiliation and closeness to the region/home and/or designer; and tangibility of the brand. 7. Low Coverage. Low coverage and reach in terms of a perceived limited distribution/ coverage and reachability; and in terms of a small hinterland; low quantities and (exclusive) not ubiquitous accessibility but distributed in the region. 8. Personal. Personal in terms of a perceived engaging, brave brand and designers’ personality and tradition. 9. Higher Price. Higher price in terms of the willingness to pay a price premium for a (sustainable, high-quality) local fashion brand. 10.Not Modern. A conservative, staid, uncool, frumpy design - a slow-fashion approach as opposed

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to a fast-fashion approach. Looks as if self-made, and in terms of a design output, does not change frequently and is rarely encountered. Fifthly, the selection and choice of social media channels is an important part of the data collection. Apart from relevant social media exchanges considering consumer reviews, consumer fashion forums, consumer video posts, and consumer Twitter posts, the social media exchange with respect to Facebook and fashion blogs are focused, especially because of their high influencing character. Instagram data is not used for data collection because of its predominant image-based character. Though Instagram has a growing fashion participant community, it must be assumed that any relevant corporate claim and its users’ written responses considering new fashion trends or new fashion brand collections are additionally placed on the appropriate Facebook page, fashion-blogs and/or twitter accounts. Thus, data collection mainly draws on users’ social media content considering: Facebook, fashion blogs, reviews, twitter data, user forums, and video posts. 1. Facebook data conducted by fashion suppliers like Lala Berlin and online fashion magazines like German Vogue Magazine and “posted” by involved target groups. 2. Fashion-blogs, which have a high relevance to the German fashion consumer. The relevance is based upon the reach (number of followers), as illustrated by most relevant Fashion Blogs in Germany. Given the data collection due to specific fashion blogs’ content, the most relevant fashion blogs were selected and implemented into the IBM WATSON social media analytics tool with respect to the research question. The relevance of fashion blogs is attributed to the number of followership and focused fashion topics. The appendix provides an overview of the most relevant fashion blogs as a basis for data in Germany, which was, among others, considered and implemented into the data collection to guarantee an abundance of data base information with respect to the data retrieval of the IBM Watson tool. Accordingly, fashion blogs are considered due to the first (since 2004, Schumann), second (since 2010 Masha Sedgwick, This is Jane Wayne) and third generation (since 2014, Caro Daur) of fashion-blogs (Schütte, 2017). 3. Consumer reviews at relevant online-fashion-retailer or ´Pure Player´ such as Amazon or Zalando. 4. Twitter data in the form of consumer responses to local fashion brands’ new campaigns or collections (Foscht and Swoboda, 2011, p. 94f) 5. Fashion forum discussions and video reposts have a complementary character with respect to user content and dialogues in the fashion field, respectively. Subsequently, distinct consumer statements/ posts are filtered from unstructured big data drawing on stated social media sources to collect relevant data for the subsequent analysis due to the developed research question of this investigation.

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The IBM tool Watson for Social Media Analytics (WASM) is used to gain the aforementioned unstructured data basis and support the subsequent analysis process. 3.4 Antecedents of Different German Fashion Design Interpretation The consumers interpretation of German fashion design influences the key research question for the purpose of the impact of PFBL on consumers brand attitude within a specific cultural German fashion context. Consequently, it affects the consumers assessment of a local German fashion brand concept. The latter is recognised as a local-regional, or even local-national fashion brand. This chapter serves to provide background information about the origin of fashion brands, which are attributed to a German induced fashion design. It is anticipated, that this information serves as a basis for the exploration and analysis of a clear determination of (perceived) local fashion brands in a German cultural context. Insights of this determination are revealed within the presentation of results (Chapter 4.2.4). Thus, these preliminary information and explanations are expected to integrate into a structural interview guide methodologically as a basis for the qualitative interviews and for the development of categories (coding structure) regarding subsequent qualitative content analysis, i.e. to structure and to interpret answers of interview partners regarding revealed impacts. Finally, the purpose of this chapter is to reveal and explain where different interpretations and perceptions of German fashion design originate. This methodical procedure might explore a deeper understanding of discovering motives, sentiments and attitudes regarding the perception of local fashion brands. The local fashion brand perception is considered with respect to each interview partners’ individual preconditions, such as the level of education, age group, degree of fashion involvement, their basic value orientation, or even the region where they grew up. This concerns the perception of fashion brands born and raised throughout various decades and local areas. Consequently, the identity of German brands, such as Escada, Jil Sander, and Joop!, arising in the 1970s, in relation to brands built up in the 21 century, including Wunderkind, Lala Berlin, Michalsky and Herr von Eden might be perceived differently by a hedonic value orientated 25 year old woman growing up in Berlin, versus that of a modern value orientated 65 year old woman who grew up in Düsseldorf in the 1970s. In this respect, O´Cass (2004) exposes gender and age, especially, significantly affect consumer fashion clothing involvement, which “is an antecedent to subjective knowledge of fashion clothing” and fashion brands, respectively (O’Cass, 2004, p. 870). The examined German fashion brands in this chapter serve methodologically as a reference object applied by its brand logo presentation to the interviewee within the structural interview guide. Further these explanations facilitate the interpretation of

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results concerning the impact of PFBL on consumers attitude regarding a specific German fashion cultural context. Thus, antecedents of different interpretations of German fashion design draw on the consumers perception of German fashion brands or the German fashion designer he is familiar with in the first place. A consumer´s individual preconditions influence his/her perception. Correspondingly, the revealed information about selected German fashion brands and fashion designer serve as a reference object for this investigation. Images of relevant German fashion brand design are presented in the appendix. The following four aspects need to be mentioned predominantly: First, the consumers perception of the identity of the local area of a familiar German fashion brands or designer’s origin influence the interpretation of German fashion design. Further it is about the degree of affiliation towards this region which could be perceived as a limited area within Germany such as a city, state, or fashion culture shaped region of Germany such as Berlin as an example. The region “Berlin” cultivates a basis for a new fashion scene and culture, which is attributed to the numerous fashion schools, such as Kunsthochschule Weissensee, and international fashion fairs, such as Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, as well as the expert fashion fair Premium Exhibitions and its several specific fashion fair segments, which attracts thousands of fashion guests twice per year. Subsequently, Berlin, positioning itself as the fashion capital in Germany, confirms its fashion and art culture by expanding fashion fairs in several niches and segments. They include the Bright and Selvedge Run, who host new street-style along with heritage, and denim fashion brands Seek and the Ethical Fashion Show. Finally, the Green-Showroom is held, representing fair trade and ecological fashion concepts and brands (Probe, 2015). From this perspective, Berlin gained importance with the national and international fashion markets. From the new German fashion self-conception influenced by Berlins fashion positioning, it is worth noting the expanding fashion fair Berliner Mode Salon. The fair has taken place in the Kronprinzenpalais in Berlin since 2015. It concentrates exclusively on German fashion design and influences the interpretation of German fashion design (Probe, 2015). Several new German premium brands representing an experimental fashion design aesthetic started their original business in Berlin including Kaviar Gauche, Lala Berlin, Kilian Kerner, Perret Schaad, and Michael Michalsky. The consumer with a high-fashion involvement is familiar with these new German premium brands and exchange his ideas in social media channels. As an example the German fashion brand Lala Berlin gained 351 fashion user Likes by sharing Vogue’s article Highlights of Berliner Modesalon in January 2017 (see appendix, Facebook posts (Lala Berlin (2017a, 2017b)). In this context the German fashion consumer recognises Lala Berlin as crucial fashion brand participant at the

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international fashion fair ´Premium, and Berliner Modesalon at Kronprinzenpalais in Berlin. Leyla Piedayesh, who is the founder and fashion designer of Lala Berlin, started her career in 2004 at the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Berlin and is now known as one of the most noted fashion designers regarding German fashion design. Thus, Lala Berlin is recognised as a significant contribution to German fashion design and is associated with the fashion cultural identity of the local area “Berlin” presumably. Consequently, mentioned explanation has regard to the fact, that the interpretation of German fashion design is influenced by the perception of the cultural identity of a specific fashion region or local area such as Berlin. Additionally, disclosure of German fashion brands participation at Berlins relevant fashion fairs and its influence on the consumers perception, interpretation and social media response to German fashion design reveal the timing with which a high-fashion consumer seek and finally adopt a fashion trend. In summary, it can be stated that the high fashion involvement consumer is attracted to German fashion brands and designers with respecting to the time period January until March (seeking, noting and communicating fashion trends) and July until August (adopting and purchasing fashion trends) considering a fall/ winter 2017 collection. This explanation is considered by the methodological research approach of Social Media Analytics (chapter 3.3.4.1). The level or the strength of affiliation towards a distinct region ultimately has an impact on the interpretation of German fashion design and influence the key research question. Given the key research question regarding the impact of perceived brand localness on consumers’ fashion brand attitude, the question arises: what kind of (German) fashion brand might be perceived and determined as a local-regional or as a local-national one. Taking this into account, the development of current fashion trends, traditional German fashion design gained in importance (Prüfer, 2011). This cultural phenomenon is primarily notable in the south of Germany, particularly Bavaria and BadenWürttemberg in the Black Forest, respectively. It might indicate a high affiliation between the region and its local inhabitants and influences the interpretation of German fashion design and the determination of a local fashion brand. Typical traditional fashion images relating to the Black Forest region are presented in the appendix considering Gutachtaler Tracht and Schwenninger Tracht (Hohenberg, 2015a). Second, the consumers perception of the (cultural) identity of the country of origin (Germany) of a German fashion brand or its designer have an influence on the interpretation of German fashion design. This aspect conforms both his perception of typical (fashion) cultural German characteristics, behaviours and attitude, and further the consumers perception of typical attributes due to German (fashion) goods.

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Additionally, this is influenced by the consumers perception of historic crucial German events in the field of politics and society. Basically, consumer fashion behaviour might determine a significant cultural aspect of an area or country in that it not only reflects a contemporary and trendy zeitgeist, but also is an attribute of its identity. Aaker and Joachimsthaler (2000) state that the identity of an object or country is likely characterized by the historical milestones of its origin. Thus, the cultural identity of a country might be closely related to the connotations of this kind of fashion statement (fashion identity), such as the elegance of the French Dior, the high-class premium of Italian Armani, the poetry of Belgian Dries van Noten, the experimental eagerness of Englishman Vivienne Westwood, and the simplicity of Scandinavian COS, or Acne Studios (Bücker, 2011, p. 35; Abnett, 2014). In this context, and on the basis of the explorative research character of this investigation, the question arises: does a German Fashion Design identity exist due to the influence of German cultural aspects, and if so, how is its identity perceived and consequently influences the perception of a local fashion brand. With regard to French fashion mentality, historically based on the fact that French people have an exceptionally high degree of fashion involvement, McCracken and Roth (1989) define this phenomenon as a relevant construct regarding an analysis of clothing codes (McCracken & Roth, 1989, p. 13). This kind of fashion attitude is still perceived, particularly in Paris, and could be obvious that a distinct fashion comprehension in German society is, unlike that of the French, still missing, which might be attributed to the evident historical changes in Germany (Bädle, 2011, p. 6). The perception of German “functional and sober” fashion design is presumably influenced by popular German fashion designers such as Jil Sander, who was called the “Queen of Less” (Griese, 2011, p. 58f.), and by the fact, that Germany built up the first ready-to-wear collection industry in Berlin in the past. Because of Jil Sanders’ strong brand awareness, her influence on German Fashion Design, and most notably, her different perception due to the brand coverage and origin, it is imperative to gain a deeper insight of Jil Sanders’ fashion design history in this investigation (Kaiser, 2015). After her apprenticeship as a textile engineer in Germany, Jil Sander was influenced by her studies in Los Angeles. Sander started her career in Hamburg, opening her first fashion-boutique Jil Sander in 1974, which became the basis of her international success in luxury fashion (Griese, 2011, p. 58f). Given the trash mass-fashion movement in the 80´s (Seeling, 1999, p.488f), Jil Sander created a countermovement representing a puristic, functional, high quality design approach and gained international recognition. Showing her international power, she was the first foreign fashion designer located in the prestigious Avenue Montaigne in Paris in 1993 (Seeling, 1999, p. 556). Mentioned countermovement may be perceived as a norm titled “Fashion Made in Germany” because of the alleged German virtues such as a pragmatic, disciplined, correct, and functional mode of behaviour (Bücker, 2011). Jil Sanders puristic,

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timeless, but chic fashion design approach is reflected by her clear and straight-line cut, which is unadorned and perfectly fit to female proportions (Kaiser, 2015; Griese, 2011). Jil Sander presented her luxurious minimalism, which is also represented by Jil Sanders’ store design (see appendix XX) at the fashion shows in Milan. The clothes manufacturer is based in Milan in contrast to her company´s fashion design headquarters and origin, which was located in Hamburg for years. Originally based in Pöseldorf – a well-known local area within Hamburg - Jil Sander chose an international or even global brand marketing approach. Sander presents this Hamburg Hanseatic fashion style; this means always representing her brand in a white blouse with a classic pantsuit along with a disciplined and straight-forwarded approach. Her personal dress might be seen as her own brand symbol (Nieberding, 2012). Thus, whether the fashion brand Jil Sander is perceived as local, national or international fashion brand is dependent on the impact of given different aspects of the brand’s perceived (regional) origin, due to the brand’s origin of manufacture, design or heritage. Jil Sander has repeatedly left her own fashion brand and sold a majority of shares to the Prada Group in 1999. For the September 2015 Milan Fashion Week, the new Creative Director Rodolfo Pagalialunga created the Spring/Summer 2015 collection of the luxury fashion brand Jil Sander. Her original brand has been split three ways. Two are owned by the Japanese Onward Holding since 2008 - Jil Sander S.p.A. in Milan and Jil Sander K.K. in Tokyo. The other is the original luxury brand Jil Sander, founded in Hamburg, Germany (Lohner, 2014). As a matter of fact, some authors suppose the label Jil Sander might be constituted as a signature brand as opposed to a global brand. This is likely attributed to its “unique identity”, among others, resulting from Jil Sanders’ clear and distinct Hamburger origin and inferior coverage of the label (Jackson & Shaw, 2009, p. 250). A signature brand is conceived as a brand, referencing a certain fashion designer, “who may not have the size or level of recognition to be a significant brand” (Jackson & Shaw, 2009, p. 250). The question arises if German signature brands such as Jil Sander, Michael Michalsky, Kilian Kerner or Michael Sontag might be perceived more as a localregional, local-national, or international fashion brand otherwise known as international marketing character. This effect could apply to Jil Sander, who is extremely associated with the Hanseatic culture of Hamburg. Images of Jil Sanders German fashion design approach are provided in the appendix. Additionally, a few talented junior designers from Berlin including Michael Sontag, Perret Schaad and Sissi Goetze, are all characterised as “Jil Sanders Töchter” because they draw on alleged German fashion design attributes as reserved elegance, down-to-earth design and New Sobriety (Steinbrecher, 2010). As a result, against this background, it would seem that those mentioned attributes such as clear silhouettes, ready-to-wear as wearable, pragmatic and functional

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practicality might reflect those values that might perceived as typically German in terms of German fashion design identity (Schirrmacher, 2010). Third, the consumers perception of the coverage, reach or level of distribution of familiar German fashion brands influence the interpretation of German fashion design. The German fashion market is more likely characterised by a low-entry and mid-price level segment, which still increases due to the constant expansion of low-and mid-price positioned German fashion retail brands such as C&A, Tom Tailor and Gerry Weber. A German fashion consumers perception of a high level of distribution and ubiquity, non-exclusivity, or arbitrariness of German fashion design might correspond to this market trend. However just a few familiar high-premium German fashion brands encounter this market trend referring to Hugo Boss, Joop! and Wunderkind designed by Wolfgang Joop, as an example. Wolfgang Joop founded the designer fashion brand Joop! in 1982 and presented his prêt-à-porter collection Wunderkind at the New York Fashion Week in 2004. Images of the designer fashion brands Joop! (Luchford, (2011)) and Wunderkind (Vogue, (2015) are provided in the appendix. Fourth, the consumers perception of an international (successful and appreciated) creative/ design approach due to familiar German fashion brands has an impact on the interpretation of German fashion design. Familiar and prominent German fashion brands with a strong brand awareness such as ESCADA, Strenesse, Jil Sander and Hugo Boss need to be mentioned. Relevant German fashion brands are methodologically integrated into the structured interview guide (see appendix). The German fashion brand ESCADA originated by Margarethe Ley in Munich has a strong national and international fashion design approach. Margarethe Ley creatively directed and developed the luxury fashion brand Escada, which gained prominence by manufacturing iridescent and elegant evening dresses. The dresses were promoted by prominent international customers such as Lady Diana and Kim Basinger, and ultimately became one of the biggest fashion suppliers in 1980s Europe (Reicherzer, 1993). The well-known German fashion brand Strenesse was created by Gabriele Strehle. Gabriele Strehle has been another internationally relevant German fashion designer influencing the perception of German fashion design. She was initially perceived as a typical German designer because of her angular and unisex fashion design approach; furthermore, her silhouettes follow the functional aspects of clothing, which refers to the Bauhaus school. The creative and artistic direction of Strenesse met with universal approval at the Milan Fashion Week (in 1995) and she currently creates the representative ready-to-wear clothing for the German Soccer Team (Thönissen, 2007). Strehles’ “form and design follow function” design approach and Leys’ extroverted, glamorous design approach might constitute a differentiate but contrary fashion design strategy. These are likely not reflective of a consistent German fashion style and German fashion design identity, respectively. Images of Strenesse and Escada German fashion design approach are attached in the appendix.

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To cite another example the familiar German fashion brand Hugo Boss has a brand name recognition of about 97% due to the German fashion consumer (Spiegel QC, 2015). Hugo Boss might be perceived as an international fashion brand because of its global coverage approach. It is one of the biggest fashion suppliers in Germany, distributing its products worldwide. However, its “traditional fashion collection” creates a strong local reference and might cause it to be perceived as a local-regional or local-national fashion brand concept due to its German origin.

Figure 18: Hugo BOSS Vest Gustl (Hugo Boss (2011a)

Figure 19: HUGO Menswear F/W 2011 (Hugo Boss (2011b))

Regarding the overarching question, what is the impact of perceived fashion brand localness on the German consumer brand association and attitude, it is conceived that this attitude might be affected by intervening variables such as (fashion) culture, politics, social environment, developments, and the value orientation. Additional inherent variables such as the aforementioned (fashion) involvement of German fashion consumers and his/her emotions and motives being dependent on consumers’ age and gender, respectively. From the evidence of the inductive research approach of this investigation this chapter answers its purpose to show where different interpretations of German fashion design originate and what variables might influence the research question, consequently: 1. The consumers perception of the cultural identity of the local area where the German fashion brand originate. 2. The consumers perception of the (cultural) identity of the country of origin (Germany) of a German fashion brand. 3. The consumers perception of the coverage and distribution level of familiar German fashion brands. 4. The consumers perception of an international successful and appreciated creative/ design approach in comparison to familiar German fashion brands.

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These information and explanations are methodologically applied in the qualitative study, and subsequently influence further qualitative and quantitative data analysis. Concretely, this preliminary information is expected to integrate into a structural interview guide as a basis for the qualitative interviews and for the development of categories (coding structure) regarding subsequent qualitative content analysis, i.e. to structure and to interpret answers of interview partners regarding the above-mentioned impacts. Findings of this chapter emphasize the high relevance of a clear definition and determination of a local fashion brand due to the consumers perception in the first place. With regard to the explorative research approach of the present investigation the analysis and clear determination of the definition of a perceived local fashion brand concept is to give priority. Hence, this chapter serves as a basis for the exploration of the impact of PFBL on the consumers local fashion brand associations, local fashion brands attitude and purchase motivation. 3.5 Conclusion: Research Method Approach As a conclusion to the methodological approach, the construct of consumers attitude towards local fashion brands is empirically examined by a sequential explorative mixed-method design. The consumers’ attitude towards local fashion brands, as a result of the impact of perceived brand localness on consumers’ local brand associations, is regarded as a hypothetical construct that is not directly observable. As a consequence, latent variables, in other words, not observable ones, need to be used in this investigation. A prioritised qualitative research approach complemented by a quantitative research one, which is conceived as sequential explorative mixed method design is selected to address these concerns. The qualitative research approach uses a qualitative pre-study regarding expert interviews and the qualitative main study due to problem-centred consumer interviews. The supplement quantitative study is applied by text mining and social media analysis considering the specific characteristics of the selected sample of the present investigation. The specific characteristics of sample selection are considered by the social media model development in particular. This chosen way of proceeding reflects an innovative and modern (contemporary) research approach. It considers the combination of qualitative and quantitative research methods by means of qualitative, problem-centered interviews (analysed by a qualitative content data analysis supported by MAXQDA) and those findings gained by text mining and quantitative Social Media analysis considering IBM Watson for social media as an analysing instrument.

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Given the targeted objective of disclosure of consumer LFB attitude, the following table summarises the empirical research process of the sequential explorative mixedmethod design approach. Sequential Explorative Mixed Method Research Design Sequence

Method

Study data collection

Sample (n)

Analysis

1

Qualitative Preinvestigation

Expert Interviews

4

Qualitative Analysis

2

Qualitative Main Investigation

Problem-Centred Consumer Interviews

17 (purposive sample)

Qualitative Content Analysis

3

Quantitative Supplement Investigation

Text Mining User Mentions

2.710

Social Media Analysis

Table 34: Empirical Research Process

4.

Presentation of Results

Results are presented according to the sequential design research process of mixedmethod-design, which is presented in the methodological chapter 3. Personal preconditions, including fashion involvement and education level of the respondents, are described to provide a reference frame for the subsequent qualitative analysis. Insights gained by the exploration and analysis of respondents’ associations (chapter 4.2.3) provide the foundation of the subsequent analysis of local fashion brands’ determination (4.2.4), basic attitude (4.2.5), purchase motivations (4.2.6) and attitude attributes (4.2.7). Subsequently, results and insights of the empirical study in regard of the advanced research questions are shown in the following order: 1. Qualitative pre-investigation (Chapter 4.1), 2. Qualitative main study (Chapter 4.2) 3. Quantitative complement study (Chapter 4.3) According to the first insights of academic literature review and results of expert interviews particularly, the following predisposing conditions and processes influence the consumers’ perception of local fashion brands. Thus, respondents’ preconditions are considered in the analysis process and illustrated within the S-O-R-model (Chapter 3.3.3.2.1) such as respondents’ education level, value orientation, cultural German fashion design background and Respondents’ level of fashion involvement. Finally, qualitative and quantitative results are condensed, merged and presented on a meta level within chapter 4.4. 4.1 Insights of Qualitative Pre-Investigation Corporate managers working in the field of brand fashion market research, industry as well as retail experts, and academics were contacted for structured interviews. In the final analysis, these guideline-based interviews provide insight into the current situation of local and national as well as international fashion-brand-leading companies targeting the German fashion market. The interviews were realised by means of a semi-structured interview guide, which is presented in the appendix. As a result, all experts confirmed that the relevance of brands is gaining in importance as a driver for future company value (see question one in appendix 1). In addition, all experts agreed that the topic of this research is of significant current interest for the management of fashion companies, because brand purchasing behaviour has started to shift dynamically and fundamentally and no fundamental empirical findings yet exist concerning the phenomenon why consumers are attracted by local fashion brands, and in particular what the impact of perceived brand localness is on consumer brand associations. Experts point out that on the one hand, the educational degree and on

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the other hand the personal value orientation might affect the question of local fashion brand perception. They address underlying consumers emotions and motivations, regarding mentioned phenomenon and consider how to characterise a local fashion brand against a national, international or even global fashion brand. All experts confirmed the need for research (see question eight and nine in appendix 1). Interviewees from fashion industry as well as fashion retail agreed to the fact, that the German fashion Market is one of the most important ones in Europe and even worldwide, although the market has almost reached saturation. Consumers purchase behaviour is reflecting a high attraction to fashion brands, particularly from the low price segment and mid price segment. That’s why a number of national, international and global fashion brands enter the market and on the one hand gain visibility on the most popular international fashion fair such as the Premium Exhibition and Bread & Butter in Berlin for example, or on the other hand try to gain market share by building up their own retail stores on the evidence of vertical development. An overview of the experts interviewed is shown in figure 1. Three key messages were identified and discussed within the context of these interviews. First, regarding all segments of the German fashion market, there is increasing polarisation. On the one hand, strong national as well as international industrial brands, are preferred by the consumer, on the other hand, retail brands leading the vertical supply chain like the Swedish fashion brand H&M or the Spanish fashion brand ZARA are gaining market share. The advantages of local brands were seen as an effective complement to a company´s existing brand portfolio, particularly a house-of-brands strategy. Local brands, on the other hand, have the opportunity to build competitive advantage in a niche market (see appendix 1). Interviewees pointed out that consumers might be attracted to national, international and global brands in a retailer’s range, but they not infrequently prefer to purchase local brands, which can seem more interesting for being not obtainable everywhere and for having a better perceived value for money. Therefore, most of the experts consider which variables or factors have a strong influence on a positive consumers attitude and on a local fashion brand preference to purchase finally. Given a positive consumers attitude towards a local fashion brand ¾ of the experts scrutinises what kind of associations, emotions or motives are behind it. All experts agreed that the educational level and the degree of fashion involvement might have an impact on the consumers’ perception of a local brand apparently. Another aspect regards possible homogenous consumer fashion groups having a positive attitude towards local fashion brands. However, consumers have difficulty identifying a brand’s exact country of origin as well as the company domicile, which might lead to a consumers’ perception bias or even cognitive dissonance regarding different cognitions about local fashion brands. Latter arise the question which kind of local fashion marketing strategies and brand marketing implementation especially brand name and logo, brand symbols and brand campaigns cause a clear local fashion

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brand perception. Most experts agreed that the trend is toward local brands becoming more important, particularly in Germany. The statement that local brands are gaining in importance for companies that are foreign to the fashion trade as well as for fashion companies themselves was emphasised by two of the experts interviewed. These companies already have a portfolio of brands with different reach and coverage as well as country-of-origin perception, which is attributed to different local needs. This trend was confirmed by the example of the fashion company Brinkmann group, which originates in Herford Germany. This group manages both the “Bugatti” brand, reflecting an international market approach, and the “Eduard Dressler” brand, which appears to be positioned more as a local brand. Both brands are parts of the menswear fashion segment. Another example was stated by the fashion brand “Liebeskind Berlin”, which belongs to the S.Óliver Group in Rottendorf/ Germany. Two experts stated that the localness of a brand, at least in the German fashion trade, helped to differentiate a given range from competing products on offer (see appendix 1). Thus, almost all experts emphasised that the localness of brands and market segments are sometimes identified as a possible marketing tool to differentiate a fashion range from similar competing ranges, but only when there is a close cultural bond between a local brand and its region and when it represents an exclusive and unique bundle of benefit that creates desire in the consumer. In any case, the simple label of “different” cannot be seen as a relevant criterion for affecting consumer purchase decisions. Relevant associations of such a bundle of benefits could be the corporate social and ecological responsibility of a local brand or, even better, protection of resources as well as prestige. Subsequently, mentioned possible relevant associations of these bundle of benefits lead to the question of successful local brand strategies (see appendix 1). The third relevant insight relates to the key role of price and product segments within the fashion product category. Some experts mentioned that researchers need to differentiate, for example, between menswear, womenswear and fashion specialist categories, since consumer psychology can be different in each category. They argued that international as well as global brands in the womenswear premium segment are more directly associated with quality and prestige, because they are more visible in international magazines than local brands in this segment. Therefore the research objective and research questions should be taken into account the differentiation of market fashion segments such as womenswear, menswear and streetwear and/or discount, mid-price, premium and luxury-price segment to discover effective local fashion brand strategies. In summary, experts confirm an existing research gap regarding the thesis of Perceived Brand Localness in the fashion market in Germany. Additionally, they confirm both that the topic under investigation and the research question regarding to the influence factors and impact on the perception of local fashion brands has great

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scientific and practical relevance. They approve that the German fashion market is a suitable object for research. One expert considered the cutthroat competition between the big, ubiquitously distributed fashion brands, for example, Esprit or s.Oliver in the mid-market, using economies of scale effects to reduce costs, will lead to gaps in the market, which could be filled by local brands. He assumes there will be good opportunities to establish local brands in such a competitive market, only if marketing instruments like brand name, brand logo and a certain style of product-design and fashion campaign approaches target groups accurately. This might affect consumer perception of local brands as unique and individual (see appendix 1). Whereas the fashion market in Germany has almost reached saturation for national and international companies like Hugo Boss and Esprit with their international and global brand strategy, future revenue growth will require a new market approach in order to acquire new customers. 4.2 Insights of Qualitative Data Analysis 4.2.1

Education Level as an Impact on the Research Question

To gain differentiated results in the early stages of the qualitative main study, the empirical evidence phase considered the high-educated-participants, as well as the mid-/ and low-educated-participants by also respecting the respondents’ differentiated value orientation. The empirical evidence phase contains the data collection and data analysis. According to the pre-evaluation by experts, education level and value orientation both have an impact on the consumers’ perception of brands. Interviews conducted with B01, B02, B03, B04, B05, B16 characterise the higheducation-sample selection (see chapter 3.3.3.3.2). Interviews were subsequently transcribed, and interview data were analysed due to the qualitative content data analysis. The integration of qualitative variables such as age, gender or mentioned education level will be conducted to ensure efficiency. Those variables gained from a short-form- questionnaire (see appendix 2) represent important document variables in the software supporting analysing tool MAXQDA. Document variables constitute the basis for qualitative analysis to cluster results with respect to a typology of PerceivedLocal-Brand-Attitude-Groups such as mentioned Education-Attitude-Groups or even Fashion-Market-Trends-Influencing-Groups considering a high, mid or low influence impact on the fashion market. Interviews with six high-education-interviewees lasted 80 minutes on average. The longest interview (B16) last 109 minutes and the shortest interview continued 58 minutes (B05). Interviews of high-educated interviewees lasted a total of 482 minutes. These interviews resulted in 95 pages of transcript containing 44.791 words. Interviews were conducted in German to gain a deeper insight into the mentioned phenomenon. Relevant text passages such as quotes, proving gained insights from qualitative (MAXQDA) analysis, are positioned throughout this chapter where appropriate. All citations have been translated from German and anonymised.

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The analytical coding process causes 1.140 codings considering 20 categories and codes, respectively within the document group high-educated respondents. Table 35 shows an overview of variables and characteristics of anonymised higheducated respondents. Accordingly, the heading of the following table presents:  The Education Group, which refers to the respondent’s allocated education level with reference to its sinus milieus (chapter 3)  The ID, which refers to his anonymised identification number of the respondent.  The respondent’s gender  The Codings, which refers to the number of allocated passages to the corresponding category due to transcribed interviews.  The Words, which refers to the number of words included in the corresponding respondent’s interview.  The Min., which refers to the interview duration in minutes.  The Year, which refers to the respondent’s year of birth  The Value basis, which refers to the discovered value orientation of the respondent. Respondents’ value orientations are recognised by the purposive sample selection.  The Education, which determines respondent’s level of education and education group.  Pro. years, which refers to the number of professional years on the job.  The Fashion Involve, which refers to the discovered level of fashion involvement based on the statement: “Fashion is a relevant issue in my daily life.” This question is answered by the interviewees within the short form questionnaire; due to a Likert scale from 1 = No, not at all up to 5 = yes, that’s true.  Live, which refers to the current residence of the respondent.  Grown up, which refers to where the respondent grew up.  Interview conduct, which refers to the date of guided interview with the respondent. Education Group High High High High High High SUM MEAN

ID Gender B01 B02 B03 B04 B05 B16

male female female female male male

Codings Words Min Year 191 184 230 220 196 119 1.140 190

7536 5832 10034 6172 7548 7669 44.791 7.465

81 91 59 84 58 109 482 80

1984 1955 1992 1993 1976 1971

Value basis Realign Modern Modern Realign Modern Tradition

Education Pro Fashion live Grown year Involve up Bachelor 7 5 south north Doctoral 35 5 north south Bachelor 0 3 north south Bachelor 0 4 north north Master 11 4 east west Master 22 1 north south

Interview conduct 12.05.15 19.06.15 08.12.15 15.12.15 20.12.15 31.12.16

Table 35: Document Variables of High-Education Respondents The segment High-Education sample collection was determined by contrast to gain different and multiple perspectives such a ´male/female´, ´younger/ older´, ´low/high involvement´, ´residence´ and ´grown up´ and ´value orientation´ especially. The latter

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draws on the allocation structure of sinus milieus, which were considered in chapter 3.3.3.3.2. Most of the participants have a higher affinity to and involvement in fashion, which is based on the statement: Fashion is an important influencing factor in my daily life according to the participants’ short form questionnaire (see appendix 2). The question is based on a Likert-scale (1 = no, not at all; 5 = yes, highly). B03 and B16 have a lower affinity to and involvement in fashion. The high education segment on average resulted in 7.465 words, 190 codings and a duration of 80 minutes. As mentioned in chapter 3.3.3.3, purposive sampling distinguishes between higheducated and low/mid-educated interviewees. It is expected that high-educated interviewees can give a deeper and more reflective insight about their perspective of mentioned phenomenon of perceived brand localness. High-educated participants are distinguished by post-graduation. Post-graduation is a delicate but distinct difference between low-/mid- educated interviewees and high educated participants, which might refer to the further education appearance of the participant. Additionally, statements of high educated respondents strongly differ from those of lowand mid- educated respondents, statements of latter mentioned groups exhibit similarities in terms of barley (pre) considerations towards the topic of local fashion brands. Given this, statements of low- and mid-educated respondents are treated as a homogenous cluster against the high-educated respondent cluster. Table 36 shows an overview of variables of anonymised ´low/mid-educated´ respondents. Education Group Mid Mid Mid Mid Mid Mid Low Low Low Low Low SUM MEAN

ID Gender Codings Words Min Year Value basis* B06 B08 B09 B11 B13 B15 B07 B10 B12 B14 B17

female female male female male female female male female male female

177 90 114 111 153 86 112 79 135 134 160 1.351 123

7.717 4.647 5.267 4.559 6.245 5.278 6.509 5.662 4.983 11.298 6.491 68.656 6.241

59 48 53 38 64 85 52 43 62 112 63 679 62

1986 1973 1976 1953 1988 1996 1976 1989 1958 1992 1980

Modern Tradition Realign Modern Realign Realign Modern Modern Tradition Realign Modern

Education

A-Level A-Level Middle School A-Level A-Level A-Level Middle School Main School Main School Middle School Main School

Pro Fashion live years involve 4 20 22 45 4 0 11 6 13 4 18

5 3 2 5 5 5 5 4 1 5 2

mid west north north north north north north west mid north

Grown Interview up conduct: mid west south east north west north north west mid east

28.12.15 28.05.16 14.06.16 11.08.16 13.10.16 16.11.16 22.05.16 28.06.16 14.08.16 08.11.16 25.01.17

Table 36: Document Variables of Low-/Mid-Education Respondents The low-/mid education segment resulted in 6.241 words, 123 codings and a duration of 62 minutes on average.

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As a result, due to the analysis of the influence of the respondents’ education level on the perception of local fashion brands, post-graduate-participants’ responses (higheducation-answers) differ in that they are more carefully considered as opposed to those of non-post-graduate-participants (low-/mid-education answers). To that effect, the analysis produces results given that high-education responses are distinguished by the following six criteria against low-/mid-education responses with respect to the research question: 1. Responses are more long-sighted and distinguished. (B01:19). 2. Appraisal and evaluations are weighted more frequently. (B03: 84-85). 3. Responses are more critical. (B02: 39-40). 4. Responses are more thoughtful. (B02: 02; B16: 219). 5. Responses are more figurative, metaphorical and contain examples. (B05:81). 6. Responses reflect interviewees’ own behaviour. (B05:25). This insight can be underlined by a 29% longer interview duration, 19.6% greater extent of words on an average and particularly, 54.5% greater extent of codings, which is caused by 190 high-education-codings on average as opposed to 123 mid/loweducation-codings on average. The bar graph 36 illustrates the mentioned analysis.

Figure 20: Number of Codings and Duration of Respondents’ Interview As a result, the aforementioned analysis explains the causes of the belief that the respondents’ education level has an impact on the perception of local fashion brand. According to table 35 (Document variables due to high-education respondents), the sum of 190 codings on average due to 20 evolved categories corresponds to the

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qualitative analysis process of the document group high-educated-respondents. Evolved categories are distinguished into leading categories and supplement categories as table 37 presents. Category IDNo.

Description due to respondents’ LFB perception

Reference number due to MAXQDA code-system

Type of category

Considered in Chapter

1

Fashion involvement

1a

Leading

4.2.2

2

Associations

5

Leading

4.2.3

3

Determination

7

Leading

4.2.4

4

Basic attitude

12

Leading

4.2.5

5

Purchase Motivation

11

Leading

4.2.6

6

Attitude attributes

13

Leading

4.2.7

7

Characteristics

6, 6a, 6b

Leading

4.2.7

Table 37: Qualitative Analysis with Reference to Leading Categories Leading Categories are focused on predominately, because they deal with respondents’ statements about their perceived and behavioural variables towards local fashion brands, which has a direct impact on the research question. The analysis of these categories is closely related to mentioned (not observable) variables, which are illustrated by figure 8 Process of local fashion brand choice due to S-O-R Model (chapter 3.3.3.2.1). This is applicable to respondents’ statements due to their: 1. Fashion Involvement towards local fashion brands (chapter 4.2.2) 2. Associations towards local fashion brands (chapter 4.2.3) 3. Determination of local fashion brands (chapter 4.2.4) 4. Basic Attitude towards local fashion brands (chapter 4.2.5) 5. Purchase Motives towards local fashion brands (chapter 4.2.6) 6. Attitude (attributes) towards local fashion brands. (chapter 4.2.7) 7. Characteristics of local fashion brands, which include characteristics due to attractiveness and reputation of local fashion brands (chapter 4.2.7) It is important to notice that the leading categories 3 and 4 serve as a foundation analysis due to the respondents’ perception regarding his understanding and definition of a local fashion brand. The definition might be distinguished into both a broader and more narrow definition of a local fashion brand. Supplement categories leverage the more precise analysis of the leading categories. These categories are integrated in the research and analysis context of leading categories. Table 38 illustrates supplement categories as follows:

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Categor y ID-No.

Description due to respondents stated:

Reference number due to MAXQDA code-system

Type of category

8

Personal preconditions and prejudices

1

Supplement

9

Associations with German fashion design

2

Supplement

10

Meaning due to fashion and fashion brands

3, 3a

Supplement

11

Purchase criteria of fashion brands

4

Supplement

12

Determination of inter-national fashion brands

9, 9a

Supplement

13

Emotions due to LFB

10

Supplement

14

Relevant attributes for purchase intention due to LFB

14

Supplement

15

Signals of local fashion brands

15

Supplement

16

Appraisal and cognitive bias due to LFB

16, 16a, 16b, 16c, 16d

Supplement

17

Individual and cultural impact on LFB

17

Supplement

18

Influencing marketing variables on LFB

18

Supplement

19

Target groups of LFB

19

Supplement

20

Local brands implement in big companies

20

Supplement

Table 38: Qualitative Analysis with Reference to Supplement Categories The structure of developed categories draws on insights of the Neo-Behaviouristic SO-R Modell considering the mentioned theory of consumer behaviour concepts (see chapter 2.1). Mentioned variables correspond to categories due to preconditions and Involvement, associations towards local fashion brands, emotions and purchase motivations towards local fashion brands and the attitude towards local fashion brands. Therefore, affective variables and cognitive variables are considered. Cognitive variables draw on concepts such as learning, (abstract and logical) reasoning, associating and knowledge (Meffert et al., 2015, p. 98f). For instance, the variable knowledgeability is corresponding to the category personal preconditions (ID-No.8), Associations with German Fashion Design (ID-No.9), and meaning regarding fashion brands (ID-No. 10). In the following, developed main and sub categories are analysed to gain insight into presented research questions. The distinction between high and mid/low education level as well as respondents’ value orientation is considered as a guiding principle due to the qualitative analysis. According to the mentioned result that high-educated respondents are characterised by carefully considering responses with respect to the research question, it seems

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natural to analyse this segment more precisely to examine the research question more precisely and comprehensively. Given the high-educated respondents, the following Figure 21 presents the amount of 1,140 codings with reference to evolved leading and supplement categories, after several iterative coding processes. Codings show both a qualitative and quantitative interpretation of relevance of presented categories.

Figure 21: Structure of Categories due to High-Educated Respondents Due to the figure 21 in a horizontal perspective, the extended size of presented red squares illustrates the higher extent of relevant statements, which deal with the corresponding category.

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The category characteristics and attributes of LFB (ID-No. 6) induces the largest number of codings (235 codings), which is analysed within chapter 6.1.7.1 in detail corresponding to developed sub-categories. The category determination of international and global fashion brands (ID-No. 9) induces the second largest number of codings (120 codings), which supplements the analysis of the determination and positioning of local fashion brands in chapter 4.2.4. In a vertical perspective, the extended size of presented red squares illustrates the higher extend of relevant statements, which deal with the corresponding high-educated respondent. As a result, all high educated respondents characterised by a high-fashion involvement (B01, B02, B03, B04, B05), which is illustrated by greater or equal than 3 selfestimation (see table 13, which presents document variables of high-educated respondents) are recognised by a greater extend of codings as opposed to the average number of codings of 190 by far. It is interesting to mention that the number of codings with reference to the higheducated respondents validates the importance of the moderating variable fashion involvement due to the insights of expert interviews. Thus, the high-educated respondent B16 is characterised by a low fashion involvement as opposed to all the other respondents of the high-education segment. This corresponds to the evident lower number of applicable 119 codings (- 37,4%) as opposed to 190 codings on average. In addition, the lower number of codings is produced by the longer duration of the interview (+ 36,25%), which is characterised by 109 minutes as opposed to the average interview duration of 80 minutes. The mentioned distinct lower number of coding quantities of respondent B16 is particularly illustrated due to the relevant leading categories as follows:  associations towards local fashion brands (ID No. 2)  purchasing motives towards local fashion brands (ID No. 5)  characteristics and attributes of local fashion brands (ID No. 7) The aforementioned points illustrate the lacking interest, ability or willingness of a low fashion involvement respondent (B16) to state associations, purchasing motives or even characteristics of a local fashion brand. Thus, the analysis results in an impact of the level of fashion involvement on respondents’ local fashion brand perception. Neither the gender as compared to the high number of statements of the male respondent B02 nor the number of years on the job compared against the high number of statements of B01 with about 35 years’ job experience, explains this conjuncture. This is explained additionally by the category fashion involvement (ID.No.1), which deals with the determination of the level of fashion involvement. The higher extent of codings of this category due to B16 characterises the higher number of statements

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explaining a low level of fashion involvement from different perspectives and confirms it unambiguously. As an example, B16 states regarding the question, what´s the meaning of fashion to him: B:” Nothing at all. (laughing). But I think I need to differentiate my statement.”

The lower extent of codings of the category fashion involvement (ID.No.1) due to the higher fashion involvement respondents (B01, B02, B03, B04, B05) is discovered by the lower number of statements due to its more concrete and distinct character. Summarised, firstly, the impact of the respondents’ education level on the perception of a local fashion brand finds its expression in six stated aspects. Accordingly, the qualitative analysis discovers and illustrates this effect by the respondents’ attitude and purchase motivation towards local fashion brands in detail in chapter 4.2.6 and 4.2.7. Secondly, the discovered level of respondents’ fashion involvement is not without effect on the perception of local fashion brands. Latter insight draws on the qualitative analysis due to high educated respondents. Given this, the analysis supports the conclusion of the impact of fashion involvement on the perception of local fashion brands. It suggests the assumption that high fashion involvement respondents have a deeper and more positive access to the concept of a local fashion brand. Thus, the emphasis of this investigation concerns the higher fashion involvement respondents. The degree of fashion involvement is analysed in detail in the following chapter. Latter, to meet the requirement of multiperspectivity of qualitative analysis and to gain a deeper understanding due to the research question. Regarding chapter 1.2, the research objective concentrates on the phenomenon of the causes of local fashion brand preference. The derived key research question considers the impact of Perceived-Brand-Localness on consumers’ fashion brand attitude. Given consumers’ attitude gaining a strong leverage effect on consumers’ behaviour, it contains on the one hand the inner (affective and cognitive) concepts of associations, learned characteristics, emotions and motives. However, personal and cultural preconditions (and prejudice particularly) and the fashion involvement might affect consumer behaviour and consumer attitude in the end. 4.2.2

Fashion Involvement as an Impact on the Research Question

According to the insights of the pre-investigation (expert interviews), which is implemented into the S-O-R model the respondents’ fashion involvement is an important precondition regarding the research question. Apparently, the level of respondents’ involvement due to their fashion behaviour and interest influences their local fashion brand perception. This assumption is attributed to the insight, that highfashion involvement consumers state and consider various - functional as well as

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symbolic - LFB benefits while low fashion involvement consumers more likely perceive the functional benefits of a local fashion brand. As an example, the comparison of the high-educated respondents B02 (high-fashion involvement) and B16 (low-fashion involvement) emphasise this insight. Even though both recognise the functional LFB benefit due to high-quality processing (B16: 250253), high-fashion involvement consumers highly appreciate the symbolic LFB benefit due to the symbol of a counterpart to the overwhelming global fashion brands. In this context, low-fashion involvement consumers rather scrutinise the good value for money in terms of a functional LFB benefit critically. Accordingly, B16 states that local fashion brands are too expansive just to get an individual well-processed local fashion offer (B16: 254-257). Taking Tigert, Ring and King (1976) into account, p. 47 states “an overall fashion involvement continuum can be defined based on the aggregate effect of a variety of important fashion behavioural activities.” Sproles and King (1973) provide five relevant aspects of the “aggregate fashion involvement continuum”. Those five aspects more likely correspond with respondents stated value orientation such as respondents traditional-, modern-, or realign-value orientation. Subsequently, the following qualitative data analysis is based on the fundament of respondents’ basic high fashion involvement: The first relevant aspect, which constitutes fashion involvement, refers to the fashion innovativeness and time of purchase. Respondents with a traditional value orientation state that they purchase clothes in the moment that a special fashion need arises. Respondents with a traditional value orientation do not care of the innovativeness in terms of trend, however almost all traditional oriented respondents are interested in fashion. All traditional respondents state the time of fashion purchase just depends on the current need and is rather not influenced by a new fashion trend. They are not highly attracted by new fashion trends or innovativeness in fashion fabrics or brands. Even though almost all traditional respondents are interested in fashion brands and a few respondents are attracted by the attention for fashion details, they are characterised by purchasing the same fashion products and brands by habit. B08 states accordingly, even though she recognises new trends partly, she is not as much interested in new fashion innovativeness (Traditional value orientation/ B08:7). Almost all modern value orientated respondents state they are interested in innovative fashion design. In this context, B05 mentions he is interested in fashion innovativeness in terms of new fabrics. However, he is adopting a communicated fashion trend at an early stage of the fashion trend just occasionally (Modern value-orientation/ B05:3). A few modern value-orientated respondents state that even though they trace the innovativeness of current fashion trends, they purchase a contemporary fashion style not because it is trendy. Almost all respondents characterised by a realigned value orientation state that they realise and partly adopt innovative fashion trends at the earliest expected time.

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The Realigns are not only at the pulse of time but scrutinise current concepts and explore new concepts. Realigns state they realise fashion trends at the earliest expected time. Statements of this group may be used as indications for new fashion and market trends. As an example, B14 states that the sustainability of fashion brands is a long-termed fashion market trend. He indicates local fashion brands as high sustainable (Realign\ Low-Education Level \B14: 333). However, he evaluates local fashion brands as low modern regarding the fashion design approach (Realign\ LowEducation Level \B14: 331). The second criterion due to respondents’ fashion involvement level draws on the fashion interpersonal communication. Traditional respondents state they prefer to talk to a local fashion designer personally. Accordingly, B07 states she corresponds with a local fashion designer personally. She is inspired by the attention to detail of a local fashion designer. B07 says she appreciates the local designer’s creation because she perceives the artisanal, handmade craftsmanship. She believes she guards this specific handmade regional performance to keep the money within the region (Modern Value Orientation\ B07:115, 147). In this context, the realign respondents thoroughly acquaint themselves with the current fashion design and market trends. They interact with the designer himself by social media or with fashion social media experts such as fashion-blog-journalist Marsha Segdwick at the earliest expected time of fashion trend communication. A few realign-value oriented respondents state in this context that they prefer to communicate about the new fashion trends of the upcoming season than about the current fashion season. However, some respondents even influence their followers through their own private fashion blog about the newest fashion trends in terms of colourways, material and design. A few respondents influence their followers by sending initial statements on their own growing micro fashion blogs, Facebook and Instagram accounts. Accordingly, B15 recognises ´The shit shop - Bonnie Strange´ among others as a local fashion brand and fashion blog from Berlin, which she admires and by which she is inspired. B15 states: “I am inspired by other cool people to tell people, what in turn I think it’s cool. For example, The Shit Shop from Bonnie Strange, it’s an IT-Girl from Berlin (laughing). She changes her fashion blog approach every two weeks totally. She goes through the roof in terms of creativity. At the beginning, you don’t understand what is her strategy but THAT’S her brand. I mean, the brand Bonnie Strange. She celebrates her ideas and that’s how I am inspired.” (Realign\ B15: 68).

The third aspect of fashion involvement refers to the general and basic level of fashion interest. To explore respondents’ basic fashion involvement, a polar question is explicitly taken into account. The third question of the preceded survey of the qualitative interviews reads as follows: Fashion is a relevant issue in my daily life. This statement is evaluated by the interviewees according to a Likert scale from 1 = No, not at all up to 5 = yes, that’s true.

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This question is applied regarding the purposive sample selection of this investigation, which is particularised in chapter 3. Bating four respondents all responses confirm a higher basic fashion involvement, which is illustrated in table 10, 11 and 12 at the beginning of the chapter. Statements of lower fashion involvement respondents are considered due to the imperative multiperspectivity of the qualitative investigation. The fourth criterion of fashion involvement refers to respondents’ fashion knowledgeability. The level of fashion knowledgeability is taken into consideration by recognition of respondents’ statements due to their profession. Respondents, who are working in fashion professionally, reveal a higher fashion knowledgeability. For example, B02 works as a lecturer in fashion design. Given her knowledgeability due to the traditional fashion costume concept she distinguishes between a local and regional fashion concept (Modern Value Orientation/B02:02). Conversely, B05, who is characterised by high-educated and modern-value orientation such as B02, but works not as a profession in fashion, is not recognising this local fashion brand aspect. This higher knowledgeability might be attributed to the profession in fashion. According to the realigned value-oriented respondents, B01 has worked as a fashion brand manager and fashion creator for several years. He states his recognition of the fashion market trends due to craftsmanship, fine processing and sustainability. Additionally, he spearheads this market trend dialogue by quoting the performance of local fashion brands concerning craftsmanship, processing, sustainability and a true local fashion brand story, combining all these elements (Realigned value orientation/ B01: 122). The fifth criterion of fashion involvement refers to respondents’ fashion awareness and his reaction to changing fashion trends. A sensitive reaction perceiving changing fashion trends is recognised by the statements of realign respondents especially as opposed to traditional and modern respondents. As an example, B13 quotes his fast purchase reaction to a special logo-sweater trend, which is prompted by his perception of the social-media fashion trend pressure considering fashion blogs and twitter post. Accordingly, B13 states: „I associate Hugo Boss with classic suits for instance. I would usually never think about this fashion brand Hugo Boss. However, they managed that really clever, that they provide so many fashion blogger with. And NOW, I want this sweater. So, I applied for the brands newsletter, that the brand feeds me with information when this logo-sweater is available in the store again.” (Realigned Value Orientation/ B13:287).

The analysis of respondents’ basic attitude towards local fashion brands in chapter 4.2.5 resulted in the finding that all interviewees who have a fundamental positive attitude towards local fashion brands are characterised by a high fashion involvement. Accordingly, the perception of a new fashion trend at the earliest expected time is explored by the high fashion involvement respondents who are characterised by

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realigned value orientation. Subsequently, these respondents reveal the most distinct openness and inner urge for a new local fashion concept. Focusing on the level of fashion involvement and based on the exploration of realign respondents’ statements, the following discovery of fashion roles are appropriate and reasonable. Insights are presented in the following table. Realigned value

Point of time due to fashion trend perception

Influencing role due to fashion trend

Initial impact on fashion trend

Profession in fashion (artist, bloggerjournalist, creator)

Social media attracted

Fashion trend role/ assignment

B01

Earliest expected time

active

yes

yes

high

Opinion leading

B04, B14, B15

Earliest expected time

active

partly

no

high

Trend Influencing

B13

Earliest expected time

passive

no

no

high

Early Trend Adopting

B09

Season start

passive

no

no

mid

Follower

Table 39: Fashion Trend Assignment due to Realign Respondents Accordingly, the determined high fashion involvement within realign respondents’ statements reveal different fashion roles concerning:  Their leading fashion market opinion, which concerns fashion trends and market trends, such as fashion craftsmanship or corporate fashion sustainability,  Their influence towards micro fashion trends, which concerns fashion trends in terms of design, colourways and fabric in the first place,  Their early adoption of current fashion trends in terms of a high purchase intention of innovative fashion trends. Given the emphasis on high-fashion involvement respondents, low fashion involvement respondents are implemented due to the purposive sample selection to consider required multiperspectivity of the qualitative research approach. Even though B09 is recognised as a lower fashion involvement respondent (see table 30 document variables), he perceives fashion trends at the beginning of a fashion season. This might be attributed to the realigned value character of the B09 respondent. As a result, the following features of the high involvement realigned value-oriented respondents are explored as the lowest common denominator and consistent token:  fashion trend perception behaviour at the earliest expected time.  high social media attraction and high social media interaction

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169

Associations towards Local Fashion Brands

According to the SOR model the analysis of respondents’ associations due to the perception of local fashion brands builds the foundation for further analysis. Further analysis refers to the distinct determination of a local fashion brand (4.2.4), respondents’ basic attitude towards local fashion brands (4.2.5), his (purchase) motivation (4.2.6) and his stated relevant attributes due a positive respondent’s attitude (4.2.7). The following figure presents explored respondents’ first association with local fashion brands. Results are gained by the number of mentioned statements due to the question: “What is your first association towards local fashion brands”, which is part of the structural interview guide (see appendix).

Figure 22: Analysis of First Associations towards Local Fashion Brands The figure presents a clear first associations-structure, which is dominated by:  The association that local fashion brands have a strong affiliation with its origin. (41,65%)  The association that local fashion brands have a low level of coverage (13,9%) Both factors, the affiliation to an origin and the level of coverage, are the result of different cognitive consideration. Particularly the cultural personality of the region is a strong associative element due to the factor ´affiliation with the local fashion brands origin´. The associative factor ´lower level of coverage´ draws on associations

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regarding a small product segment, or the local fashion brand is just available in a distinct region. Additionally, high educated respondents might have a clearer and more differentiated impression of a local fashion brand than low- / mid educated respondents. As an example, B10 states regarding the question of local fashion brand associations: “About that I have no idea.” (Low Education Level\B10: 76 - 83).

Given a first association structure of local fashion brand, a semantic associative network due to local fashion brands is illustrated in the figure 23:

each region

B02

B06

closed B02 to you

Regional identity

B02 B14

home

B14

B05

German B11

B07

B01

B02

B01

B08

affiliation to the origin encouraged

Association

produced locally

localheroes

B13 B04

local head of design

B05/ B04/ B13

personal/

personality

appreciation

B04

B17

more tangible

Certainty accepting responsibility

fine and accurate

B09

B06

B01/ B05/ B13/ B14

direct association

strong linked association

indirect association

light linked association

expansive

trend indicator B01

B04/B05/B14

Low coverage

B01/ B09

small quantities

B01

B08/ B12 B07

B12

exclusive rarity

short logistic distances

just distributed in our region

B08/ B12

B15

trustworthiness

B16

B01

B01

sustainability/

infrequently changing

valuable processing

B01 B02 B05

just achievable B09 in our region

B05/ B14

staid design

B01

B01 treasure B02

B07

superlocal B04

not cheery

B01

B02

B09

local, handmade

B01

B04

B13

B14

B13

B01 B05

small

good fabric B01

B13

B01

c ertainty

B04

artisanal/ craftsmanship/ trend indicator B01

LFB

B08/ B16

B04

valuable quality

B01/11 B05

better fit

quality

B05 B04

Lighthousetender B11/B17

B13/ B05

against the global play

affection

local brand story

Speciality of

passion for original idea

B05 B01

B05

B01/ B15

Traditional Costume

appreciation for performance

against the meaningless

authentic & cool

social

ecological

lower cost/ good cost-benefit ratio

B15

do the right thing

no international visibility

Figure 23: Semantic Associative Network towards Local Fashion Brands The analysis of the cognitive coherence of the respondents’ statements accomplishes a semantic associative local fashion brand network. Results are gained from the question: “What do you associate with local fashion brands in general?”. While a direct association is stated by the respondent promptly, an indirect association is triggered by the direct association. The strength of the linked association is attributed to a higher number of statements corresponding to this association or to a stronger affective statement.

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The figure illustrates the semantic associative relations of local fashion brands. Eight apparent associative areas are explored and discovered: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Regional identity Valuable quality Artisanal craftsmanship Small Sustainability Handmade Tangible Local heroes and local head of design

These associative areas characterise a semantic centre or hub considering local fashion brands. 1. Regional Identity Some respondents have positive associations with local fashion brands regarding a regional identity. The affiliation towards a regional identity belongs to positive feeling and life style towards a region or city, which is given voice by the associations of home and close-to-you. One respondent associates the regional identity with the traditional costume, which reveals the reference of the local fashion brand concept to the science of fashion-sociology. Another respondent associates a local fashion brand concept with the chance to consider the specialty of each region within Germany. A regional identity is more tangible. It is able to support an authentic local brand story and probably safeguard existing jobs. B01 states: “Ehm, yes, I have per se positive associations with a local fashion brand. Because I associate a local fashion brand with an origin, and with an identity. A certain tangibility also. And that is first of all something positive, because it originates from a certain region and stands for a certain region.” (High Education Level\B01: 84 84).

2. Valuable Quality Almost all respondents realise a strong connectivity to the quality of a local fashion brand. Even though the fabric quality and the perfect fit are stated as quality factors of a local fashion brand, the valuable processing of a local fashion brand is stated as the most relevant association and quality factor. The valuable processing is linked by the association of an accurate, careful and fine workmanship to the artisanal craftsmanship. B01 states, accordingly: “There is just another aspect, it is about the high-quality standard and the valuable processing of a local fashion brand; which corresponds to the authentic local brand story.” (B01:90).

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3. Artisanal Craftsmanship Some respondents associate artisanal craftsmanship with local fashion brands, which prompts further ideas such as local fashion brands high-quality processing, retro design, passion for the originate idea of fashion (B05: 44), and even in direct association the imagery of a light-house tender as a symbol for the appreciation due to true fashion performance and innovative ideas. One respondent points out that the local fashion brand stands for the originated idea of fashion, which stands in contrast to the meaningless of a global offer. The latter demonstrates the influence of a local fashion brand concept on socio-economic and political perspectives. B05 notices: B.: „I imagine that there is a responsible designer, who is passionate about craftsmanship. The craftsmanship should be connected with a manufacture; what induce a kind of retro approach or classic approach. What I do NOT associate with a local fashion brand is illustrated by H&M, where you can find the same dress in Berlin or in New York or at the Philippines, where I was recently. What I do associate, connect with a local fashion brand is passion and appreciation for the originate idea of fashion. Against the disposal of fashion but proceed to mindfulness and more awareness. That’s what I associate with a local fashion brand.” (High Education Level/ B05: 44).

4. Small Almost all respondents associate the expression small with local fashion brands, the meaning of which is distinguished in terms of valuable processing like fine and accurate design. This is emphasised by some respondents, who associate treasure with local fashion brands such as trumps, jewels, or fine pearls. Corresponding to that, “I associate small and careful with the importance of the processing of the local fashion brand. That these fine pieces and fine designs are supposed to be perceived as jewels and valuables.” (High Education Level\B02: 115 – 118).

The second meaning of small is associated with a lower distribution in terms of a limited attainability just within a specific region, a lower coverage or lower production output in terms of small quantities. These associations create positive impressions such as the exclusive rarity character of a local fashion brand (B01:124), and negative impressions such as the missing international visibility (B15:64). 5. Sustainability Some respondents state that they associate local fashion brands with doing the right thing, or to do something more valuable, because they strongly connect local fashion brands with sustainability. B04 notices: B: “So, talking about adidas its the feeling of safety. Personally I would buy at Adidas, but I do not trust them in terms of sustainability. In this case I would choose a local fashion brand, because I know what I get in terms of a sustainable product. I mean, if I chose a local fashion brand I would support something more valuable.” (High Education Level\B04: 220 - 221).

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6. Handmade Some respondents connect a handmade character to a local fashion brand. The handmade character is perceived as a positive, distinctive quality symbol associated with the artisanal craftsmanship of a local fashion brands in the first place. B01 states this aspect by emphasizing the local fashion brands handcrafted pattern as a quality signal (B01:120-122). Just a few respondents associate the handmade character of a local fashion brand with a staid design in terms of being old-fashioned. This might be attributed to the perception of an old-fashioned, down-to-earth association with German fashion design in general. A few female respondents (B04, B06 and B15), who are characterised by a high fashion involvement attitude, expressed this opinion. As an example, B06 associates German fashion design with a classic-fashion design approach, with no-international design relevance, just functionally driven, no courageous fashion style. Apparently, female higher-fashion-involvement respondents are influenced by their prejudice against German fashion design. This might result in a negative, disapproving estimation of a local-fashion-brand in terms of a local -German-fashion brand. B04 states this aspect by stressing that German fashion design is not innovative. She believes German fashion designer accommodate their fashion creation to the market trend, which makes the fashion design market conform and provide no creative, experimental fashion design anymore. (B04:49-52). B06 emphasises this perspective and states accordingly: “German fashion design appears plain to me. Its puristic and vintage. I think about Jil Sander or Hugo Boss, which are not so much courageous. I.: What do you mean by courageous in terms of fashion design? B.: Pattern, style, fabric and colorways.” I.: “Do you think, that the new fashion design labels such as Kaviar Gauche, or Lala Berlin starting in Berlin will gain acceptance? B.: I don´t think so. Considering fashion design I think, that Germany has no good heritage and tradition.” (High Education Level\B06: 112 – 113).

7. Tangible Some respondents realise the connectivity of a strong tangible concept with a local fashion brand, which leads to the certainty of responsibility and trustworthiness. (High Education Level\ B01). 8. Local heroes and head of design Some respondents have positive associations with local fashion brands regarding the local hero concept, which apparently produces a positive connectedness with the region and the creator of the brand. These positive associations prompt an alleged higher price willingness given an authentic local brand story. Accordingly, B13 states:

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B..: “So, thinking about a local fashion brand I associate, that’s a real positive emotion. I want to purchase a local fashion brand, because I want to push “our local heroes”. Just to tell the people “we are Hamburg”. I want to support the German fashion brands and not the same me-too international fashion brands, who have such a high turnover anyway. Why don´t big up our own fashion brands. (...). I TOTALLY appreciate the local designer and his creation. Especially his autonomy, his courage to be independent. I would even purchase (a local fashion brand) at a premium price, if they had a good marketing/ brand story. Because I would push and support this creator/ designer. Well, whether it is really small.” (Realign\ Mid Education Level\B13: 174 - 180).

Especially the creator or manager, who is behind the local fashion brand, is strongly connected with the local fashion brand concept by almost all respondents. Additionally, some respondents associate a personal approach and particularly a strong personality with local fashion brands. Due to this, a few respondents characterise the local creator and designer of the fashion brand. As an example, respondent B15 is fascinated by the personality of Bonnie Strange, which she identifies as the creator of the local fashion brand ´The shit shop – Bonnie Strange´. Other respondents perceive a personal approach by the connection to the originated region of the local fashion brand. As an example, B14 conceives a more pleasant bond towards the local fashion brand. Summarised, the exploration of local fashion brand associations discovers almost positive perceptions of local fashion brands. Associations like home (B14), close to you (B02), or artisanal craftsmanship (B07, B01) leverage further positive food for thought such as appreciation, trustworthiness and premium quality. Consequently, the top two associations (1) affiliation to the origin and (1) low coverage - considering the analysis of first and overall associations with local fashion brands are the fundament for the constitution and determination of local fashion brands. The analysis of the determination of local fashion brands results in a clear local fashion brand positioning, which is presented in chapter 4.2.4. 4.2.4

Determination of Local Fashion Brands

Considering the results of respondents’ associations with local fashion brands, the following criteria determine the perception of local fashion brands in the first place, because these codes were discovered by all respondents and stated undoubtedly. Apparently, the perceived origin of a local fashion brand and the perceived coverage of a local fashion brand influences the research question regarding the impact of perceived fashion brand localness (PFBL) on consumers’ brand associations and brand attitude. Thus, the following two factors are considered as factors for local fashion brand determination:  Affiliation to the origin  Lower level of coverage and/or reach

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Results of investigated determination of local fashion brands provide high relevant input for the add-on quantitative analysis and Social Media Analytics respectively. Results of the quantitative analysis are provided in chapter 4.3. All fashion brands which are discerned as local constitute the qualitative basis information of the social media model. Thus, local fashion brands are determined across all education segments firstly. Subsequently, the qualitative content data analysis considers distinct level of education and value orientation. Based on the analysis of the statements of basic positive attitude respondents, the not observable concepts of respondents’ purchase motivation and attitude due to local fashion brands are considered. The researcher presents about 60 fashion brand logos to all respondents. Provided the participant is familiar with the presented fashion brand logo or brand name, firstly, only those fashion brands are included into further analysis, which are perceived and determined by not less than half of interviewees estimation (X>50%) as a local fashion brand. Secondly, respondents were asked to characterise the localness of a presented fashion brand with clear and unambiguous qualitative positive estimations. As an example, B08 states: I:” Okay, so if you had to designate a local fashion brand, which brand you would mention? Do you know a local fashion brand anyway? B: Sure, ´Schöffel´. And ´Maerz´ come to my mind impulsively.” (Mid Education Level\B08: 148 – 149).

All interviewees were asked whether they perceive a specific fashion brand as a local fashion brand. During conducted interviews, mentioned fashion brands were presented in form of brand logo and brand name due to the (semi-) structural interview guide. Most of the interviewees gave further answers and amplifications in terms of individual precondition, involvement, emotions, motivation and attitude towards local fashion brands. This is a requested detail of the qualitative analysis. Each participant considered this estimation several times on whether a presented fashion brand might be perceived as local. In the end, his estimation was just explicitly considered once. In addition, it is only explicitly considered if the interviewee is familiar with the presented brand. Subsequently, the quantitative social media analysis, which is presented in chapter 4.3, benefits from a more distinct and significant output of the qualitative analysis. Figure 24 shows the final results due to the determination of perceived local fashion brands across all interviewees.

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Figure 24: Determination of Local Fashion Brands Across all Segments The coding of 17 interviews considering 60 fashion brands, the brand logos of which are included in the semi-structured interview guide, resulted in 254 estimations of fashion brands. Accordingly, the analysis is based on 254 valuations of the discerned localness of mentioned fashion brands. Apparently, low-/ mid educated respondents, characterised by a more likely modern value orientation, perceive and determine both small regional fashion brands and German fashion brands as local fashion brands. The

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judgment of B07, B11 and B17 show this effect by the fact that almost 50% of presented fashion brands are recognised as a local fashion brand. After the analysis of categories and codings respectively, this might be a relevant issue regarding subsequent analysis of consumers’ typology. The research draws on information about the meta-level such as age, gender, education level, years of profession and fashion involvement level, which are captured by the preceded short form survey of the interview (see appendix). Analysing the empirical qualitative data material leads to an insight of remarkable resemblance of statements and a selection, clustering and positioning of perceived local fashion brands. 1. First, discovering those statements of interviews containing fashion brands, which are mentioned and determined as a local fashion brand at least once by presenting 60 fashion brand logos and brand names within the interview. As a result, 54 fashion brands are perceived as a local fashion brand by the respondents. 2. Second, given this basis of 54 local fashion brands, elimination of those statements referring to fashion brands, which do not fulfil local fashion brand criteria due to affiliation to an origin and due to a lower level of coverage of the brand. Mentioned criteria are discovered by the analysis of associations towards local fashion brands and proved by the category Characteristics and attributes of local fashion brands. As a result, 21 local fashion brands are determined. 3. Third, the distinguishing and clustering of homogenous statements about each fashion brands. Selected homogenous statements of the respondents are characterised by segments of local fashion brands in a narrow sense, which refers to the local fashion brand segment A1. Further analysis of respondents’ statements explores local fashion brands in a broacher sense, which refers to the local fashion brand segments A2, A3 and A4. As a result, the investigation gained both insights of 8 specific local fashion brands in a narrow sense and insights of 13 local fashion brands in a broader by the analysis of interviewee statements. Alleged 54 local fashion brands were discovered mentioned as a local fashion brand at least once. The following criteria were taken as a basis to ultimately determine and select a valid basis of local fashion brands: a. Not less than half of interviewees, who are familiar with the presented brand logo and/ or brand name, determine it a local fashion brand (aided brand awareness), unless an interviewee mentioned a specific brand as a local fashion brand just by a non-aided and unsupported brand awareness respectively. I:” Okay, so if you had to designate a local fashion brand, which brand you would mention? Do you know a local fashion brand anyway? B: Sure, ´Schöffel´. And ´Maerz´ come to my mind impulsively.” (Mid Education Level\B08: 148 – 149).

b. A part of Interviewees, which are in a higher degree familiar with the presented brand, give a clear and unambiguous qualitative positive statement determining the localness of the perceived brand due to the origin of the presented brand.

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Considering the mentioned criteria 21 fashion brands are discovered as local fashion brands. The following table presents mentioned result, in alphabetical order: No.

Local brand name

Indications of LFB estimation

Indications of FB familiarity

Share of LFB recognition %

1

Anna Fuchs

6

6

100,0

2

Bogner

7

10

70,0

3

Blutsgeschwister

10

10

100,0

4

Brax

6

12

50,0

5

Derbe

13

13

100,0

6

Eduard Dressler

7

7

100,0

7

Falke

8

15

53,3

8

Gerry Weber

6

12

50,0

9

Herr von Eden

12

12

100,0

10

Julia Starp

8

8

100,0

11

Lala Berlin

9

12

75,0

12

Liebeskind Berlin

13

18

72,2

13

Maerz München

11

11

100,0

14

Michalsky

6

8

75,0

15

Schiesser

7

13

53,8

16

Schöffel

5

12

41,7

17

Seidensticker

11

13

84,6

18

Bonnie Strange

1

1

100,0

19

Trigema

8

12

66,7

20

Wellensteyn

7

12

58,3

21

Wunderkind

8

11

72,7

Table 40: Analysis and Discovery of Local Fashion Brands The first indication number is attributed to the respondents’ local fashion brand estimation and determination. It characterises the quantity of local fashion brand perception. The second number indicates the quantity of interviewees who are familiar with the presented fashion brand. The share of local fashion brand estimation illustrates the percentage number of respondents who unambiguously discern the presented brand as a local fashion brand. As an example, most of the participants perceive the fashion brand Seidensticker as a local fashion brand (84,6%). Particularly 11 of 13 participants, who are familiar with the German fashion brand Seidensticker, perceive it as a local fashion brand within the qualitative interview. 2 of 13 participants perceive Seidensticker as a national fashion brand and making a difference between a local and a national fashion brand, which distributes within Germany. As a first result, given the basis of 21 local fashion brands, four respondents’ patterns of perception are conspicuous according to the qualitative content data analysis. The

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exploration and analysis of these four patterns of perception provide the foundation of the subsequent analysis, determination and positioning of local fashion brand segments, which are illustrated by A1, A2, A3 and A4 in the final positioning figure 41. Thus, the exploration and analysis of mentioned context is shown first, due to the explorative qualitative character of this investigation. The first local fashion brand segment A1 draws on two imperative conditions, which are discovered due to the exploration of respondent statements. The first explored condition refers to the fact that almost all interviewees - 2/3 majority response or more - make a clear and homogenous statement about the lower coverage and the affiliated origin regarding the basis of 21 specific presented local fashion brands. Additionally, this segment contains fashion brands which are non-aided mentioned by the respondents. The latter applies to the fashion brand The Shit Shop – Bonnie Strange, for example. As a result, eight fashion brands are unduly discerned as a local fashion brand in a narrow sense. Those brands have no less than 67% assignments towards localness due to the perception of the brands’ origin and/or due to the perception of brands’ coverage. Secondly, several interviewees make a clear and unambiguous qualitative positive statement concerning the ´localness´ of the perceived brand due to the origin of the presented brand. Thus, those brands are highly associated with and allocated to a special region (Liebeskind Berlin related to Berlin), to a special niche (Seidensticker related to the market segment shirts), or even to a special designer (Wunderkind related to the creator and designer Wolfgang Joop). However, those brands are often characterised as small, which is also recognised by the analysis of associations towards local fashion brands (4.2.3). Especially these determined local fashion brands are the basis for further qualitative content data analysis of latent concepts of purchase motivation due to local fashion brands (chapter 4.2.6) and consumers’ attitudes towards local fashion brands (chapter 4.2.7). These consumer behavioural concepts are mainly considered by the consumer behaviouristic SOR model (chapter 3). As a result, according to mentioned explored conditions, the following 8 local fashion brands characterise a true, authentic local fashion brand segment due to high affiliation to a region and due to a low coverage in distribution, in a narrow sense. This LFB segment is named A1. Logos of presented fashion brands are listed in the appendix within in the structuralinterview-guide due to conducted qualitative interviews. Table 41 presents mentioned results:

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No.

Local fashion brand

Corresponding statement of respondent

1

The Shit Shop Bonnie Strange.

B.: Ah, yes, I DO know a local fashion brand. It is called „The Shit Shop, Bonnie Strange“. That’s a REALLY cool fashion label from Berlin.” (Realign\ Mid Education Level B15: 8).

2

Blutsgeschwister

“Blutsgeschwister is a typical local German brand.” (Low Education Level/ B16: 189 – 189).

3

Derbe

“Derbe is a local brand. German. So, it is local. A lot of people from Germany know this brand, because of its “Hamburger city arms.” (Mid-Education Level/ B09: 180 – 181).

4

Herr von Eden

“I perceive ´Herr von Eden´ as a local brand, because I associate it with Hamburg.“ (Mid-Education Level /B06: 181). “Herr von Eden is Hamburg; so, it´s local.” (B04/110).

5

Lala Berlin

“Joop, I know that brand and I know that it is German. Gerry Weber is a German brand too. And Lala Berlin, it’s obviously that it is a local brand.” (Mid-Education Level/ B11: 83 – 83).

6

Liebeskind Berlin

“It is a local and regional brand respectively, a kind of mixture, because it is titled ´Berlin´ in the sub-line. The affiliation to the region Berlin will remain, nevertheless how ´big´ this brand become.” (High Education Level/ B03: 85 – 86).

7

Maerz München

“Maerz München is a local fashion brand, because of the city ´Munich´.” (High-Education Level/ B03: 101 – 101).

8

Seidensticker

“Seidensticker (…) I know this brand from Germany especially. But, I know it as a supplier/ manufacturer of shirts with premium quality.” (High Education Level/ B16: 119 – 119).

Table 41: Determination of Local Fashion Brands in a Narrow Sense Mentioned cited examples document that the perception of the origin of a fashion brand is a relevant criterion to clearly allocate a brand to its ´localness´. The origin might be cognitive closely related to a region (even to the region Germany), a special market segment or a designer. Thirteen local fashion brands are discerned as a local fashion brand in a broader sense. Those brands have no less than 50% assignments towards localness due to the perception of brands origin and/or due to the perception of brands coverage and/ or are named unaided as a local fashion brand. Secondly, a few interviewees make a qualitative confirming statement concerning the localness of the perceived brand. More than half of the interviewees perceive a few (3) local fashion brands as a local fashion brand due to an affiliation to the origin and the perception of a lower coverage of the brand. The latter aspect of ´localness´ is shown by using the expression regional meaning a limited area in which the brand is positioned. Some interviewees draw on this smaller and limited region and/ or area within Germany to refer it to the origin. However, others were recognised by the signature brand name and the fashion designer himself as the origin in terms of the origin creator or cradle of the brand respectively. Thus, respondents statements refer to the following local fashion brands characterised by a regional designer fashion label segment: Julia Starp, Anna Fuchs. B07 states accordingly:

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“´Anna Fuchs´?- yes she is local. ´Herr von Eden´ appears as a local brand to me.” (Low Education Level\B07: 39 – 39).

Additionally, some statements draw on the German pronunciation and sound of the brand name and its corresponding idea of a regional German brand. Although a few interviewees were not too familiar with the presented brand and secondly, assumed these brands have a low brand awareness in general, they suppose these fashion brands have a local approach. These assumptions are not a clear and unambiguous qualitative positive statement concerning the ´localness´ of the perceived brand. Thus, these brands do not fulfil the required criteria of a true local brand in a narrow sense (High Education Level\B03: 100 – 100). More than half of the interviewees perceive presented fashion brands, such as Bogner, Michalsky and Wunderkind, as a local fashion brand due to a higher affiliation to its origin regarding the creator of the fashion brand, the proximity to a German region and a specific brand positioning. Statements about the designer and fashion brand creator might have the biggest impact on these local brands’ perception. But most interviewees consistently mention the bigger size of the brand or even its growing potential regarding fashion designers’ success, either at present or in the past. In the light of these local brand perception effects, the following statements characterise an (regional, or national) extending designer fashion brand segment. First, the perceived affiliation to the creator of the brand and his/its personal, individual famous fashion – German or region within Germany – history and culture: I: “Michalsky, that´s the one, who is still a member of the jury of German Next Top Model.“ B: THIS Guy? – Yes, he is local German label.” (Mid Education Level\B11: 120 – 121).

Second, statements consider the brands proximity to its (original) affiliated/ connected German region, area or even city: „(...) Bogner?, I mean it is more basic or classic fashion attitude (...) it´s Munich, isn´t it?” (High Education Level\B16: 141 – 141).

Third, those statements relate to a specific market segment, target group and sinus milieu respectively, which leads to an estimation of ´brand localness´ in terms of a “small”, limited but sharped brand positioning. „Wunderkind, that´s a very small luxury collection, just for these ladies, who don´t dream up about fashion at all and are not inspired anymore, something like that.” (High Education Level\B02: 165 – 165).

Particularly, a few statements demonstrate considerations, which lead to an unambiguous qualitative positive statement concerning the ´localness´ of the mentioned brand. For that reason, these brands might not be allocated to the real local brand segment in a narrow sense. Even though a few interviewees have the knowledge a special fashion brand has already an international impact (cognitive), they evaluate this brand emotionally as a local fashion brand (affective). Nevertheless, these

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statements stress the perceived growing extension of the mentioned local fashion brand in terms of increasing brand size and extending brand’s coverage and show the growth potential of the fashion brand as an indicator of success. “Michalsky, ok sure he is a successful designer but I would still perceive him as a local fashion brand.” (High Education Level\B03: 109 – 109).

Thus, as an insight of the analysis, the impact of the (affective) affiliation/ affinity of a consumer towards the mentioned interpretation of origin of a local fashion brand might be much stronger than the (cognitive) knowledge about the international performance/coverage or even success of this fashion brand. Perception bias arises about the question of localness in that case. Even though the fashion brand Wunderkind or Michalsky is determined as an international fashion brand by just a few interviewees, it is associated with attributes of a local fashion brand such as small, careful and accurate. The question of respondents’ perception bias draws on specific sub items of the research question, which is illustrated in chapter 3.1. A detailed exploration and analysis of respondents’ perception bias due to the perception of the localness of a fashion brand is provided in chapter 4.2.8. The reason why consumers’ perception bias may arise is that a person may associate a presented local fashion brand with a few, but different indications of source simultaneously such as (High Education Level\B02: 160 – 167):  the fashion brand´s history or the history of the fashion designer himself, who has created the fashion brand once successfully (Wunderkind by Wolfgang Joop),  the region, area or city (Berlin, Germany), the fashion brand has arisen,  or the allocation to a specific target group, or market segment (traditional milieu). Almost all interviewees make a clear and homogenous statement about the origin of a specific presented fashion brand regarding the German culture in particular. Respondents’ statements refer to fashion brands such as Brax, Gerry Weber, Falke, Seidensticker, Trigema, Schiesser and Wellensteyn. Additionally, almost all respondents state a lower coverage in terms of a regional or national distribution at most. Most interviewees discern seven presented fashion brands as a local fashion brand due to an unambiguous affinity with the German origin and the specific German culture particularly. The latter expression represents the statement “is a German brand”, which is slightly different to the statement “is a brand from Germany”, which just characterises the area of the brand’s production origin or brand’s design origin in the first place. Therefore, some of the interviewees discern a typical German culture fashion brand as an equal to a local fashion brand. In this context, some respondents state the typical characteristics of a German brand draw on attributes of the German fashion design culture such as down-to-earth, functional, reliable products, or good/ premium quality.

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Brand perception of these presented brands vary in terms of a local, regional, national or even international coverage or distribution respectively. This might support the conclusion that statements of some interviewees are much more affected by the culture of a region to classify the localness of a fashion brand, than by the perceived coverage of the brand. As a result, the following local fashion brands characterise a (national) German culture driven local fashion brand segment (A4), which are represented by the following statements: B.: “Falke? Socks. Local. (laughing). Trigema is local too. I.: Wyh do you think it is local (…)? B.: This guy I have seen in interviews on tv. The way he talks is so German-down-to-earth. German. He is a real German. He is so proud on the fact, that he cares for his employees in Germany.” (Low Education Level\B12: 129 – 131).

Another insight might be constituted at this stage of the investigation, regarding mentioned low and mid education statements against high-education statements. Basically, the impact of the perceived (affective affiliation) emotional attachment of an interviewee to the original local (German) fashion brand’s culture on his local-brandperception (and estimation finally) might be much stronger than the (cognitive) knowledge about the fashion brands coverage. This context seems to be verifiable more likely regarding above-mentioned statements of low (B10, B12, B17), and mideducated interviewees (B08, B11, B13, B15). Mentioned insights can be confirmed for high-educated interviewees only if they perceive a strong reference between the original region or city of the fashion brand and its apparent inherent German culture and German values. (High Education Level\B16: 134 – 135). The latter example additionally shows that interviewees with a higher education level might be more affected/influenced by tangible facts such as a distinct degree of coverage, the level of distribution of these brands, or the knowledge about the fashion brands genesis, or market segment, while they consider the question of “brandlocalness”. Another statement of B16 and B02 supports this possible insight (High Education Level\B16: 189 – 189). B16 constitutes Schiesser and Schöffel as a typical German fashion brand, although he already recognized it as an international brand due to the perceived degree of coverage. B02 states the fashion label Joop! is ultimately perceived as an international or even global fashion brand because of its international approach and coverage. But just a few paragraphs before, B02 considers about the proximity and strong reference of the local fashion brand Joop! to the German culture and region “Germany” at the same moment. Finally, B02 confirms the statement Joop! is an international brand (High Education Level\B02: 121 – 122; High Education Level\B02: 185 – 186). Additionally, B02 states (see same quotation above) the fashion brand Jil Sander is perceived as an international or even global fashion brand, because of its perceived

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and recognised international fashion approach and growth; but B02 changes her estimation from international to local, because she recognized her strong personal (emotional) affiliation towards the region/location ”Pöseldorf”, which constitutes a specific cultural area within Hamburg, where Jil Sander started her fashion business in 1974. This area draws on specific attributes of Hamburg culture and even of German culture such as strict practicality and Hanseatic style, which becomes visible with “white mansions” and a matter-of-fact manner. This strict practicality might be a relevant factor of success for the international Catwalk fashion approach of Jil Sander in Milan. I.: “My question is, why do you perceive her (Jil Sander) as a local brand? B.: Because I refer the name to her origin. Hamburg! Pöseldorf! The fashion boutique. My personal environment; other people may recognise different designer, who lived round the corner.“ (High Education Level\B02: 125 – 126).

Thus, some interviewees (more likely high-educated respondents) are much more cognitively affected by the apparent real facts such as the “size” of the brand due to the perceived degree of coverage or a perceived level of distribution, than they are affected by the emotional affiliation/ affinity with the origin, unless they perceive a clear brand reference to a region (within Germany such as mentioned region ´Pöseldorf´) and a high emotional affiliation with German culture and German values of this region might be characterized. This phenomenon might be caused by an almost emotional personal and individual relationship towards this area, assuming they have lived in this area for a time. This can be proven by respondents’ preconditions such as the respondents’ current residence and the region in which they grew up. The latter aspects are illustrated within the document variables in Tables 35 and 36. As an example, B16 has grown up in the south (Starnberg), which is close to Munich (Willy Bogner). B02’s current residence is Hamburg, whereby she knows the distinct area of Pöseldorf where Jil Sander started her fashion designer career. Another aspect regarding different local-brand-perceptions due to low/mid and higheducation statements needs to be discussed. As mentioned in Chapter 4.2.1 (Education Level as an Influencing Factor on the Research Question), statements of interviewees with a higher education level are much more reflective. Statements of the high-education group are much more carefully considered by reconsidering the question of perceived brand localness from different points of view (High Education Level\B16: 133). As mentioned at the beginning of this chapter, if no less than half of the interviewees who are familiar with the brand constitute it as a local fashion brand, and at least one interviewee states a clear and unambiguous positive statement about the localness of the fashion brand, then these homogenous interviewees state a local fashion brand in a broader sense. Regarding statements considering the estimation of a local fashion brand in a broader sense, which is characterised by the local fashion brand segments of A2, A3 and A4, the following four perspectives need to be considered to ultimately determine a local fashion brand positioning:

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Firstly, the perception of the origin draws on association and images such as follows:  The country (Germany, country of origin effect), or even the culture of the country (to be German is associated with down-to-earth or sober behaviour, manner and appearance),  The region within the country (Munich is associated as a German region), or even its culture (Bogner is associated with Munich’s glitterati),  The designer and creator of the fashion brand (such as Willy Bogner, Michael Michalsky, Julia Starp or Jil Sander)  A special market segment or target group respectively (Jackets from Wellensteyn). Secondly, perceiving a fashion brand as ´German´ constitutes a strong impact on their estimation and final determination as an equitable local fashion brand, mainly regarding low and mid educated interviewees. Thirdly, statements of low-/mid- education level might be affected stronger by the more likely affective/ emotional affiliation reference of a fashion brand towards its origin. Fourthly, interviewees with a high education level might be more likely strongly affected by cognitive tangible facts such as degree of coverage and level of distribution of a fashion brand, unless they perceive a really strong reference towards the brand’s origin in terms of a reference to the region within Germany, to the creator of the brand, or to the regional, German culture. Some respondents (B02, B03, B05,) support this indication considering the fashion brand Wunderkind created by its German fashion designer Wolfgang Joop, or the fashion brand Liebeskind Berlin with its strong reference to Berlins culture. The latter perception pattern is supported by one higheducated respondent who perceives the German fashion brands Schöffel and Schiesser as an international fashion brand by recognising an evident international coverage. As opposed to that, fashion brands with a strong perceived affiliation to his region are perceived as a local fashion brand by him even though pursuing an evident international distribution. As an example, B16, who has grown up in the south of Germany, perceives a strong cultural affiliation of the German fashion brand Escada towards the region Munich. He notices the fashion brand Escada as a local fashion brand, even though he knows that Escada pursues an international distribution strategy. As a result, subsequently, the following three different local fashion brand segments in a broader sense are discovered:  A2 = regional designer fashion label segment. Statements due to the segment A2 stress the perception of smallness in terms of lower brand awareness, lower level of coverage and distribution or limited area of a recognised designer name and fashion label.  A3 = regional, or national extending designer fashion brand segment. Statements due to the segment A3 emphasize the higher affiliation to its origin regarding the creator and designer of the fashion brand. Secondly, the proximity to a German

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region and a specific brand positioning are mentioned. Almost all statements focus the potential growth of the perceived local fashion brand.  A4 = national German culture driven local fashion brand segment. Statements due to the segment A4 focus specific characteristics of the German culture. Summarised, basically those statements constitute a local fashion brand due to the lower degree of coverage and a higher level of affiliation with the fashion brand’s origin. This refers to discovered local fashion brand segments of A1 (local fashion brand segment in a narrow sense) and A2-A4 (local fashion brand segments in a broader sense). Figure 25 shows the relation between the level of perceived brand coverage and the degree of perceived affiliation to the brand’s origin. 4

D 

Degree of perceive affiliation to brands origin

high

A

1



3

2

mid

local/ national mid

local/ regional Level of perceived brand coverage

low

Figure 25: Local Fashion Brand Segments in a Narrow and Broader Sense As a result, respondents’ statements about the perceived localness of fashion brands resulted in 21 local fashion brands, which are positioned into four local brand segments. A fashion brand is unambiguously allocated by high-, mid- and low- educated interviewees to a local fashion brand segment in a narrow sense (A1), if the consumer firstly perceives a close and strong affiliation towards the brands origin, which is a

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necessary condition. This condition is expressed by stating an affiliation towards a region (Germany), the region’s culture (German) or a region/location within Germany (Berlin) or even to the creator and designer, who is associated with a city or region (Herr von Eden). Secondly, the interviewee states a lower level of coverage or distribution of the brand. Accordingly, the following table presents the determination of perceived true, authentic local fashion brands in a narrow sense. No.

Brand name

Perceived level of coverage

Perceived level of affiliation to the origin

1

Blutsgeschwister

Local/ regional

high

2

Derbe

Local/ regional

high

3

Herr von Eden

Local/ regional

high

4

Lala Berlin

Local/ regional

high

5

Liebeskind Berlin

Local/ regional

high

6

Maerz München

Local/ regional

high

7

Seidensticker

Local/ regional

high

8

Bonnie Strange

Local/ regional

high

Table 42: Local Fashion Brand Segment A1 These eight true, authentic local fashion brands are identified as a basis for the supplement quantitative data analysis within the sequential mixed-method design of this investigation. The supplement quantitative data analysis is presented in chapter 4.3. The second local fashion brand segment in a broader sense presents the determination of regional fashion designer labels. Table 43 shows mentioned local fashion brands, which are recognised by the respondents: No.

Brand name

Perceived level of coverage

Perceived level of affiliation to the origin

1

Anna Fuchs

Local/ regional

mid

2

Eduard Dressler

Local/ regional

mid

3

Julia Starp

Local/ regional

mid

Table 43: Local Fashion Brand Segment A2 The third local fashion brand segment in a broader sense presents the determination of regional and national extending fashion designer fashion brands perceived by the respondents.

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No.

Brand name

Perceived level of coverage

Perceived level of affiliation to the origin

1

Bogner

regional/ national

mid

2

Michalsky

regional/ national

mid

3

Wunderkind

regional/ national

mid

Table 44: Local Fashion Brand Segment A3 The fourth local fashion brand segment in a broader sense presents the determination of national German culture driven fashion brands perceived by the respondents. No.

Brand name

Perceived level of coverage

Perceived level of affiliation to the origin

1

Brax

national

high

2

Gerry Weber

national

high

3

Falke

national

high

4

Schiesser

national

high

5

Schoeffel

national

high

6

Trigema

national

high

7

Wellensteyn

national

high

Table 45: Local Fashion Brand Segment A4 Given the perspective of perceived fashion brand localness, the fundament of this investigation, the definition of a local fashion brand is affected by a lower level of the brand’s coverage and by a higher degree of affiliation towards the origin of the brand. The multiperspectivity exploration of a phenomenon and its derived research question is an important characteristic of the qualitative content data analysis. Thus, to gain a deeper insight according the perception and determination of local fashion brands as opposed to a non-local fashion brand concept the exploration of respondents’ statements due to presented fashion brands with the following characteristics are pursued:  a lower affiliation to its origin  an apparent higher level of the various brands’ coverage Furthermore, some respondents perceive a lower level of coverage and a lower level of affiliation towards the presented fashion brand. Accordingly, some respondents perceive and determine fashion brands as smaller and regional, because they state these brands as follows:  a small stock-keeping-unit range/ collection,  a low volume production,  a low, exclusively regional coverage and a lower distribution not distributing beyond Germany  or even a lower brand awareness.

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Mentioned “regional” aspect of these brands is mainly related to the perceived size of the brand and in no way affected by a perceived affiliation to a specific region. According to the definition of a local fashion brand, these fashion brands are neither determined as a local fashion brand in a narrow sense nor in a broader sense, because of the missing affiliation to an origin. They are just discerned as a small fashion brand. Subsequently, the following fashion brands refers to respondents’ statements, which emphasize the localness of a fashion brand due to a low coverage primarily. The perception pattern draws on the littleness, which is constituted by the attributes of small and regional due to the brand. Hence, it determines a small regional size fashion brand segment. It cannot be determined as a local fashion brand segment, because a clear affiliation towards the fashion brands origin is missing (Low Education Level\B14: 227 – 227; Mid Education Level\B11: 63-65). No.

Brand name

Perceived level of coverage

Perceived level of affiliation to the origin

1

Band of Rascals

low

low

2

Armed Angels

low

low

Table 46: Non-Local Fashion Brand Segment B Almost all respondents state a high level of coverage and reach, and a lower level of affiliation towards the presented fashion brands Escada and Laurél. As an example, B12 states: I: “What country do you associate the brand Escada with? B. Absolutely nothing; it is just global.” (Low Education Level\B12: 119 - 121). No.

Brand name

Perceived level of coverage

Perceived level of affiliation to the origin

1

Escada

high

low

2

Laurel

high

low

Table 47: Non-Local Fashion Brand Segment C Even though almost all respondents state an international or even global level of coverage, just two respondents perceive these fashion brands as a local fashion brand in terms of German or in terms of an allocation towards the southern German region (Low Education Level\B17: 221). In fact, even though a few respondents know the affiliation towards the origin and heritage of the presented fashion brand, the perception of the globalness of this brand seems to be much stronger. This effect is seen within the high-educated respondents, in particular. Almost all respondents perceive a high level of coverage and reach, and a high level of affiliation towards the presented fashion brands Jil Sander, Joop!, Hugo Boss, C&A and Adidas. As an example, B06 states both a clear global brand approach of the fashion brand Jil Sander, and a high affiliation towards the origin.

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“Jil Sander has a global approach. I.: That’s interesting, even you know that she is originated from Hamburg, Pöseldorf? B.: Yes, sure, I tell you why, because I have bought Jil Sander fashion in Italy; and the brand is so Italian meanwhile.” (Mid Education Level\B06: 204 - 208).

In this context, it is interesting to mention that even though consumers from foreign countries use the expression local in terms of national with respect to the national area in a strict sense, domestic German consumers rather use the expression local in several aspects; in terms of a specific region within Germany and in terms of the national region Germany corresponding to the national area (Mid Education Level\B09: 81 - 84). In contrast, B01, who has grown up in Germany, distinguishes the localness of a brand in several aspects and perspectives. B01 perceives the fashion brand Liebeskind Berlin as connected with both the specific region Berlin and the national region Germany (High Education Level/ B01). Rather low-/mid-educated respondents perceive fashion brands which come from Germany or are made in Germany as a local fashion brand, as opposed to higheducated respondents. As an example, B17 emphasizes the localness of the fashion brand Adidas and Hugo Boss with regard to its German cultural reference (Low Education Level/ B17). Apparently, high-educated respondents distinguish between local fashion brands, which draws on a distinct region within Germany or on the country Germany itself. Subsequently, the following table 48 presents fashion brands and determines the localness of a fashion brand based on an international, or even global coverage and a high affiliation towards the origin. The latter refers to its German origin. It cannot determine as a local fashion brand segment, because of its perceived high and even international extent of coverage. No.

Brand name

Perceived level of coverage

Perceived level of affiliation to the origin

1

adidas

high

high

2

Hugo Boss

high

high

3

C&A

high

high

4

Jil Sander

high

high

5

Joop!

high

high

Table 48: Non-Local Fashion Brand Segment D Subsequently, the graph illustrates results of the aforementioned qualitative detailed content data analysis. Figure 26 presents the relation of the perceived level of fashion brand’s coverage on the one hand (X-axis) with the perceived affiliation to the fashion brand’s origin on the other hand (Y-axis). The graph contains results of the determination of local fashion

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brand segments (see figure 25) and associates results in a higher level of coverage. The latter is associated by the respondents with an international or even global context.

D

low high

Degree of perceive affective and cognitive affiliation to brands origin

high

4

1

3

2

C

A

B

low high

Level of perceived cognitive brand coverage

BRAND FASHION DESIGN RECOGNITION BENEFIT

low

BRAND RELIABLE AND LIKEABILITY BENEFIT

Figure 26: Local Fashion Brand Segments in a Higher-Level Coverage Context The table portrays the perception of four local fashion brand segments (A1 – A4) as opposed to the perception of non-local fashion brand segments (B, C, D).

As a result, it can be stated that the determination and perception of a local fashion brand is affected by the perceived higher affiliation towards the brands origin and the perceived lower level of the fashion brands coverage. The most relevant local fashion brand segment is characterised by the respondents’ statements due to segment A1, because it characterises respondents’ perception of true local fashion brands in a narrow sense. Subsequently, insights due to this local fashion brand segment are the foundation and input of the subsequent quantitative data analysis. Local

fashion brands in a narrow sense (A1) focus on the perception of a local fashion brand with respect to a distinct region, whereby the area Germany is seemingly discerned as a local area in the biggest extent. As an example, B01 provides the insight that the localness of a brand can be attributed to a region within Germany and to Germany itself.

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The qualitative data analysis results in the perception of a higher affiliation towards the fashion brand’s origin and prompts the respondents’ perception of a clearer, stronger brand identity. Additionally, a higher affiliation towards the origin affects positive feelings of the respondents due to the local fashion brand’s credibility as well as a higher reliability in terms of premium processing (Certainty of quality). Accordingly, the Y-axis of the graph illustrates a higher level of affiliation towards the origin creates an alleged brands advantage in terms of the brand’s profiling, differentiation ability and trustfulness. Secondly, x-axis of the graph illustrates an alleged brand advantage in terms of brand likeability, due to a perceived lower level of the brands coverage. This is caused by the perception of accuracy, sustainability, artisanal craftsmanship and brave performance of a local fashion brand and its creator prompted by the perception of lower brand’s coverage. As an example, B01 states that he feels a strong brand likeability to purchase a local fashion brand (B01:23). Given these stated local fashion brand abilities, almost all respondents state the appreciation and the need-for-protection of those abilities, which leads to local fashion brands’ likeability. As an example, B04 states the courageous performance of a local fashion brand: B.: „That’s so brave, I appreciate, respect them and I pay tribute to local fashion brands.” (Realign\High- Education Level\ B04:151).

Especially the courageous, brave performance of a small, local distributed local fashion brand and its independent creator and his fight against the global overwhelming fashion brands reveals strong appreciation and creates mentioned brand likeability (Realign\ Mid Education Level\B13: 174 - 180). On the other hand, however, a perceived higher level of the brand’s coverage creates a brand’s advantage in terms of a higher (international) fashion design recognition, as portrayed by the x-axis. This is caused by a perceived higher fashion diversity, extent of fast-changing fashion themes and adoption of international fashion design trend character. The concrete (perceived) functional and symbolic value provided by a local fashion brand should be considered according to a more detailed analysis. To discover mentioned values, the analysis of the purchase motivation of a local fashion brand is analysed in the following. In light of the research question, subsequently, the recognition of respondents’ positive basic attitude toward local fashion brands provides insight as to which kind of purchase motivation affects corresponding positive basic attitude. 4.2.5

Basic Attitude towards Local Fashion Brands

According to chapter 2, the basic attitude is constituted with respect to Kroeber-Riel, et al. (2009, p. 211) and Fishbein and Aizen, (1975, p. 6) as fairly and stable (pre-) disposition of an individual person or consumer to behave or react towards an object, product or brand in a given situation respectively.

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In response to the question “Do you have a positive, negative or neutral attitude towards local fashion brands?”, which is discovered in the second part (problemcentred phase) within the structural interview guide, some respondents state their basic attitude towards local fashion brands directly. B.: “Yes, sure. I think, that local brands are a positive enrichment.” (High Education Level\B05: 80 - 81).

Secondly, almost all respondents underline their stated fairly-stable disposition towards local fashion brands by mentioning evaluative characteristics (rather negative, neutral or positive) of local fashion brands, their positive or negative feelings to it, to what extend distinct fashion attributes characterise local fashion brands and its individual contribution to respondents stated fashion demands (Low Education Level\B07: 117-147).

Thirdly, some respondents reveal their basic attitude towards local fashion brands by mentioning clear associations with/towards local fashion brands, which have a strong and evident impact on their personal values. As an example, even though B14 states his impartial perspective towards fashion brands in general, he affectively mentions clear associations and a positive attitude towards local fashion brands. He reveals that mentioned associations have an important impact on his life style (Realignment and Synthesis). Incidentally, the latter is illustrated by his highly-motivated statements to find new solutions (synthesis) regarding international, experimental (fashion) design and local, sustainable fashion design with a strong personality. I.: “What feelings do you have in view of local fashion brands? B.: Home! I.: And what does Home mean to you? B.: The most important feeling people could have. If you can give people this feeling, it means the highest importance within their priority-setting. (…). It is such a personal feeling, so deep. I.: So, what does it spark off? B.: Love. Affiliation. Affection.” (Low Education Level\B14: 279 - 286).

B15 states a clear positive affection towards the recognised local fashion brand ´The Shit – Bonnie Strange´, even though she is more interested in international fashion design than in local fashion design. A positive attitude towards a local fashion brand and a higher interest for international fashion design results in a positive but ambivalent basic attitude towards local fashion brands in general. Her statement to be more interested in international fashion design suits her fashion life-style caused by the perception of fast-changing fashion design. B.: „Because I am rather interested in international fashion design. If you act restrictively you have just a lower exchange. I buy a lot of fashion articles far away from home.” (Mid Education Level\B15: 64).

Thus, the following table presents respondents’ basic attitude towards local fashion brands due to their value-orientation and level of education.

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B16 B03

B02 B05 B08

B06 B11

B07 B12

B17 B10

positive

ambivalent

neutral

negative

positive

ambivalent

neutral

negative

positive

ambivalent

Basic Attitude

neutral

Realign

Basic Attitude

Mid

High

Modern

Basic Attitude

Low

Education Level

negative

Value Basis Tradition

B01 B04 B15

B09 B13 B14

Table 49: Basic Attitude towards Local Fashion Brands The table presents the analysed statements of the respondents concerning their basic local fashion brand attitude. The basic attitude is essentially characterised by a negative, neutral or positive manifestation. The qualitative analysis additionally produces the result of an ambivalent basic attitude. As a result, the following positive-attitude-groups are identified regarding local fashion brand perception: 1. Respondents characterised by a low-, mid-education level referring to traditional value basis (B07, B08, B12) and a realigned value basis (B09, B13, B14, B15). Even though B15 is recognised by a positive but ambivalent attitude towards local fashion brands, her statements are considered to meet the stipulation of multiperspectivity due to the qualitative research approach. 2. Respondents characterised by high education level referring to a modern value basis (B02, B05) and a realigned value basis (B01, B04). As an example, B04 clearly states her positive attitude towards local fashion brands (B04: 202). Figure 27 illustrates the positive-attitude-groups with respect to its allocation within the Sinus Milieus (see chapter 5 for detailed explanation of Sinus Milieu approach) considering the education level of the respondents.

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Figure 27: Positive Local Fashion Brand-Attitude-Groups due to Education-Level (with reference to Sinus Milieus)

Given the basic positive-attitude groups towards local fashion brands, and in light of the main research question regarding the impact of perceived brand localness on consumers’ brand attitude, the following analysis need to be approached. First, what emotions and (purchase) motivations are concealed behind the discovered positive basic attitude towards local fashion brands? Second, what are the relevant attributes of local fashion brands, which prompt illustrated positive basic brand attitude? 4.2.6

Purchase Motivation towards Local Fashion Brands

According to the development of research question (chapter 3.1) the question arises as to which emotions and (purchase) motivations affect the attitude towards local fashion brands and result in a positive basic attitude. Therefore, due to the education-level as an impact of the local fashion brand perception, the following insights draw on the positive attitude groups of high-educated respondents on the one hand and on the pooled positive attitude groups of low-/ mideducation respondents on the other hand. Additionally, distinction between cognitive and affective (emotional) driven aspects of respondents’ statements towards local fashion brands purchase motivation are considered. Also, differentiation between functional and symbolic value are made. Symbolic value considers intrinsic and extrinsic (purchase) motivation towards local fashion brands. Mentioned distinctions

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are made to get a deeper understanding of the causes of local fashion brand purchase motivations. The relevance of symbolic and functional value considering intrinsic and extrinsic purchase motivation due to the fashion brand perception is mentioned in chapter 2. High-education positive attitude respondents are characterised by cognitive and affective driven aspects. Affective driven aspects (hedonic intrinsic) are discovered such as the desire to support the regional/ local fashion designer and the desire to realign the apparent adversarial common fashion market trends due to corporate social responsibility (relating to social and ecological sustainability), accurate and careful craftsmanship and (global) fashion mass production. In contrast, cognitive driven aspects of a local fashion brand are illustrated in terms of the perception of a stronger functionality of the local fashion offer, such as the fact that the perception of the technical and functional characteristics of a local fashion brand illustrates the functional value in terms of a utilitarian benefit of the local fashion brand. The latter is partly prompted by the cognitive connection between local fashion brands and its related origin image such as “made in a region within Germany” or even “made in Germany”. B01 states that a local fashion brand benefits from the fact that a local fashion brand is designed or even produced in a region or stands for a region within Germany. The perceived fulfilment of strong requirements concerning a functional premium German fashion product with a high-quality standard leads to an apparent image transfer on local fashion brands which come from a region within Germany. The mentioned effect is partly explained by the country-of-origin effect, which is presented in chapter 2.2.2. The more likely pragmatic perspective of the high educated consumer benefits from the criteria of an intrinsic motivational aspect also “I purchase a good, honest, real sustainable well-processed product for good money” (High- Education Level\ B01). Thus, given cognitive driven perspective, the following local fashion brand attributes are stated due to the purchase intention and purchase motivation of the high-education group: a) Perceived local fashion brands’ premium quality (high valuable) refers to functional and symbolic brand value.  Functional value/ benefit in terms of functionality and practicability by perceiving valuable processing, better fit and fabric, more transparent and tangible sustainably local supply chain production, which provides the consumer a utilitarian value/ benefit of the local fashion brand. Utilitarian benefit due to the technical local fashion brand attributes reducing consumers’ purchasing complexity by “getting a brand with a high-quality and sustainable standard”, which partly is attributed to the country-of-origin effect due to functional driven German products with high standard quality. (B01/ B04). Utilitarian benefit due

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to the technical local fashion brand attributes (Realign/ High- Education Level\ B01, B04).  Strong functional value in terms of utilitarian benefit. Local fashion brands are perceived with distinctive fine and careful craftsmanship, which reduce the risk of the degrease of fashion brand variety caused by fashion globalisation and its uniformity (Modern\High- Education Level\ B02).  Strong functional value in terms of utilitarian benefit: Local fashion brands serve as trend indicators in terms of fabric, processing and sustainability (Modern\High- Education Level\ B05).  Functional value/ benefit in terms of a better fit and/or fabric, which provides the consumer/respondent a utilitarian value/ benefit of the local fashion brand (utilitarian, intrinsic motivation due to the supposed technical attributes of the local fashion product/brand) (Realign\High- Education Level\ B04).  Lower aesthetic value/ benefit in terms of a valuable artisanal, handicraft and hand(self)-made local fashion brand (B01, B04), which offers the consumer/respondent an intrinsic, aesthetic benefit of the local fashion brand (aesthetic, intrinsic motivation due to the supposed aesthetic attributes of the local fashion brand) (Modern/ Realign\High- Education Level\ B02, B05/ B01, B04). b) Perceived higher sustainability in terms of ecological (B01) and social (B02/B05/B04) responsibility, which provides the respondent a hedonic, intrinsic benefit/ brand value, which suits his desire for self-determination, self-fulfilment, individuality and ethical demands (Modern/ Realign\High- Education Level\ B02, B05/ B01, B04). c) Perceived high trustworthiness in terms of a higher transparency of its (local and/ or standard) cognitive realized high-quality fashion supply-chain-production, which provides the respondent a utilitarian benefit, because of the tangible technical, functional production process on the one hand (Realign\High- Education Level\ B01). On the other hand, it provides the respondent a hedonic, intrinsic benefit/ brand value as well, because it suits his desire for self-determination, self-fulfilment, individuality and ethical demands. B01 states the higher tangibility of local fashion brands due to the consumer’s perception of proximity to the fashion creator, designer and/or region (Realign\High- Education Level\ B01:94). Additionally, the high-education group states affective/ emotional driven aspects due to a local fashion brand. Affective driven perceived aspects of a local fashion brand are illustrated in terms of emotional statements considering the perceived misbalance and unfairness of big (global) companies as opposed to small (local) companies and brands on the one hand. Respondents perceive local fashion brands as a symbolic counterpart compared to global brands (Modern\High- Education Level\ B02/B05).

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Affective driven aspects are prompted by the respondents’ perception of the implementation of common new meta fashion trend of sustainability and fine craftsmanship by local fashion brands. In particular, the desire of the realigns-group (B01, B04) to adopt these changes and fashion trends (corresponding to their Sinus Milieu value basis) stands in contrast to its partly refraining opinion regarding local fashion brands design. Additionally, the personal emotional appreciation and affiliation to local fashion designers and their performance, and the individual local fashion brand marketing story need to be stated (Realign\High- Education Level\ B01/B04). Both mentioned perspectives draw on the hedonic, intrinsic motivation perspective such as “support the right (ethic, fair, intellectual correct, and appreciation for painstaking fine craftsmanship) thing”, which suits the self-determined ethical, social and intellectual high standards of the high-education respondents most on the one hand (Modern\Realign\High- Education Level\ B02/B05, B01/B04). The aforementioned aspect is partly attributed to a social, extrinsic motivation aspect too. This is because of the desire to gain respect and recognition according to their intellectual correct buying behaviour within the high-educated social class and elevated distinction towards other groups equally (Modern\High- Education Level\ B02/B05). Thus, given the affective driven perspective, the following local fashion brand emotional perceptions due to the purchase intention of the high-education can be stated: a) Perceived feeling of annoyance due to the market dominance of the “big” global fashion systems such as stated S. Oliver, Esprit, or H&M leads to the purchase motivation supporting local fashion brands “against the global play”.  Symbolic value in terms of a hedonic, Intrinsic motivation desire to do the ethical, political, intellectual right thing by supporting LFB due to his/her set high ethical, social, intellectual standards”) (Modern\High- Education Level\ B02/B05). b) Perceived feeling of affiliation/ bonding towards local fashion brands refers to a symbolic brand value due to:  the social, extrinsic motivation to gain respect and (outer) recognition according to the intellectual correct buying behaviour within the high-educated social class. Additionally, the feeling of affiliation is attributed to the desire to show “superiority” to others by illustrating his specific fashion knowledge about local fashion brands and regional costumes, which might be explained as knowledgeshowmanship (Modern\High- Education Level\ B02, B05). B02’s intellectual manner of proofreading statements due to the differentiation of ´local fashion brands´ and ´regional traditional costumes´ as a supplement of the interview particularly indicates the “knowledge-showmanship” and the symbolic value of elevated distinction behind it (Modern\High- Education Level\ B02:1).

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 the hedonic, intrinsic benefit in terms of the appreciation of the local individual and innovative (“local brands are a Lighthouse tender for innovation”) processing and fabric performance of a local fashion brand, which leads to the hedonic intrinsic purchase motivation supporting the local fashion brands. This aspect might draw on the perceived pragmatic role of a local fashion brand as a trendsetter in fashion processing and fabric also. Therefore, it refers to a cognitive functional benefit as well (Modern\HighEducation Level\ B05).  the hedonic, intrinsic benefit in terms of the desire of true new brand marketing stories and curiosity (“Thrill but tangible and truthful”), which draw on the perceived “true regional affiliated local brand story” (B01: 84, 124). This leads to an intrinsic purchase motivation supporting the local fashion brand. The hedonic intrinsic motivation is derived from the desire for trustworthiness, tangibility in combination with a thrilling but authentic brand story which seems to be fulfilled by the attraction of local fashion brands storytelling and a higher purchase intention of local fashion brands finally (Realign\High- Education Level\ B01), (Realign\Low-, Mid- Education Level\ B13, 14, 15).  the hedonic, intrinsic benefit in terms of the desire of recognition and affiliation towards local fashion brand performance in terms of the trustful, clear implementation of common fashion market meta trends due to corporate social responsibility (social and ecological sustainability) and fine, careful and accurate craftsmanship. Additionally, the appreciation of painstaking performance of a local designer, which draws on the high perceived appreciation of the fine, accurate, focused workmanship/ processing of a local fashion product on the one hand (Realign\ HighEducation Level\ /B01/B04). However, this hedonic intrinsic purchase motivation is derived from the specific desire for society to give local fashion brands credit for their accurate workmanship and careful craftsmanship performance (Modern\ Realign\ High- Education Level\ B02/B05/B01/B04).  The hedonic, intrinsic benefit in terms of the desire of appreciation of the designers’ courage due to his concentration just on a local fashion segment, achievable in a limited area. The Intrinsic purchase motivation derived from the specific desire, causes the recognition and appreciation towards the courage and selfdetermination of the designer. As an example, B04 states: B.: „That’s so brave, I appreciate, respect them and I pay tribute to local fashion brands.” (Realign\High- Education Level\ B04:151).

Table 50 summarises gained insights by presenting the high-educated respondents’ (positive attitude group) functional and symbolic values considering a local fashion brand, which leads to corresponding specific purchase motivations. The perceived

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value (or benefit) of the local fashion brand is attributed to the respondents’ cognitive and affective related statements. Thus, the following table presents the high-educated respondent local fashion brand purchase motivation, due to functional and symbolic value of a local fashion brand considering the cognitive and affective statement perspective: High-educated respondent

Functional value Symbolic value Symbolic value

Affective Perspective

Cognitive perspective

modern value basis (B02, B05)

realign value basis (B01/B04)

Utilitarian benefit:  Perceived premium quality serves as trend indicator in terms of fabric/ processing and sustainability.  Perceived distinctive fine, careful and accurate craftsmanship serves against the “global” uniform me-too fashion offer.

Utilitarian benefit:  Clear and strong perception of technical high quality (processing, fabric, fit) standard with certainty, partly caused by “made in a specific region as a part of Germany”  Perception of tangible, sustainable and transparent supply chain fashion production  Perception of fine craftsmanship

Hedonic intrinsic benefit:  Socially responsible, fair brand approach

Aesthetic benefit:  valuable artisanal handicraft Hedonic intrinsic benefit:  sustainable, fair & ecological approach match milieu value basis. Hedonic benefit:  high trustworthiness of local supply-chain production.

Hedonic intrinsic benefit: Feeling of annoyance due to “against the global play”, suits the need doing the intellectual, ethical, right thing by supporting LFB. Social extrinsic benefit: Feeling of LFB affiliation due to “knowledge about the local/ regional costume”, suits the need for outer recognition within the intellectual social class in terms of elevate above others. The latter effect is confirmed by the mideducated B09, who notices a recognition-effect considering the intellectual social milieu regarding the intellectual local fashion brand ´derbe´.

Hedonic intrinsic benefit:  Feeling of recognition and affiliation caused by the LFB perception of trustful and clear implementation of common meta fashion trends (craftsmanship, sustainability).  Feeling of affiliation towards LFB due to the appreciation of LFB/ creators’ performance.  Feeling of LFB affiliation due to the appreciation of the designers’ courage and self-determination.  feeling of affiliation towards LFB due to need for true, thrilling local/regional fashion brand story.

Table 50: Local Fashion Brand Value and Benefit of High-Education Respondents Given low-/mid-education positive attitude respondents’ (B07, B08, B12, B09, B13, B14, partly B15) affective and cognitive driven aspects need to be mentioned. The

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emphasis is attributed to affective driven aspects of perceived fashion brand localness. Even though B15 (female respondent) states a positive attitude about a distinct local fashion brand (The Shit – Bonnie Strange), she scrutinises her attitude towards local fashion brands in general. Given the question whether the gender might affect the local fashion brand attitude, this context might be reviewed in the quantitative analysis. Affective driven aspects due to LFB purchase motivation are illustrated in terms of:  supporting regional/ local brands, because of the fear of being left behind,  to be proud of special, regional products,  higher emotional affiliation/ bonding towards the local fashion brands origin, subsequent its region, the designer, or to a social group (B09 states the local fashion brand ´derbe´),  strong affiliation/ bonding and recognition towards local fashion brands  appreciation towards the personal attributes of a (local) designer brand and his performance, which refers to the courage of a fashion designer and his affinity toward taking risks. Therefore, given affective driven perspective, the following local fashion brand affective/ emotional perceptions regarding purchase intention of the low-/mideducation positive attitude respondents can be stated: a) A strong feeling of affiliation towards the local fashion brand can be illustrated as “Guard symbol” in terms of guarding and saving a part of the own origin/ region. The feeling of affiliation is based on the perceived “fear of being left behind” of the own region. It leads to the purchase motivation supporting local fashion brands originated in the region. This insight corresponds with a bonding towards the specific artisanal craftsmanship and trade of the region, the region, or even the local designer. This refers to a symbol value due to:  the hedonic intrinsic motivation to do a good action for the own region (by supporting and purchasing a local fashion brand) derived from the desire to guard the own region and to protect the regional/ local employment market. The performance of the local fashion brand (designer) is without effect, as opposed to the purchase motivation of the Realign-group (Traditional\Low-Mid Education Level\ B07/B12).  intrinsic hedonic motivation to do a good action for the “small” local designer and therefore do oneself a treat derived from the desire to keep and guard the specific and traditional craftsmanship/ handicraft of the region! (Traditional\LowMid Education Level\ B07/B08/B12). b) Perceived “feeling to be proud” of a special processed product of a local fashion brand: Provides a sensual-aesthetic benefit by choosing an exclusive local fashion product, which is special, processed differently, and stands out against the mass products in terms of a rarity (exclusiveness). It provides an aesthetic benefit, because of the specific artisanal processing. Focusing on the special product items,

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the affiliation towards the brands region or brands story is of minor importance (Traditional\Low-Mid Education Level\ B07). c) Perceived “feeling of affiliation (bonding) and recognition” towards LFB due to the trustful implementation of fashion market meta trends by LFB, the perceived affiliation towards the region (such as “Hamburg”), the personal (or individual) local designer brand, and/ or designer himself, and/ or social group within this region.  Thus, provides a hedonic, intrinsic benefit in terms of the desire of recognition and affiliation towards local fashion brand performance in terms of the trustful, clear implementation of common fashion market meta trends due to corporate social responsibility (social and ecological sustainability) and fine, careful and accurate craftsmanship (Realign\Low-Mid Education Level\ B09/B13/B14).  Thus, provides a strong hedonic intrinsic benefit, which draws on the desire/need to support the “local (fashion) hero” (local designer and/or local fashion brand) and to celebrate his local/regional fashion performance (artisanal workmanship, premium processing, fine craftsmanship). The respondent appreciates the designer’s performance, and his courage leading a “small”, personal local fashion brand and cultivating a local (fashion) brand story (Realign\Low-Mid Education Level\ B13).  Thus, provides a hedonic intrinsic benefit/value due to the respondents’ adoration regarding the autonomy and self-determination of a local fashion brand such as B15 adores the local fashion brand Bonnie Strange due to its “brand autonomy” (Realign\Low-Mid Education Level\ B15).  Thus, provides a hedonic intrinsic benefit (purchase motivation) due to the strong local fashion brand association of home and even love, which correspond with the value orientation of the Realign respondents (Realign\Low-Mid Education Level\ B14). Cognitive driven aspects due to LFB purchase motivation of low-/mid-educated positive attitude respondents can be stated. Those are chiefly illustrated in terms of the cognitive perceived “higher quality of a local fashion brand” realised by the processing, fabric and fit as well as a better craftsmanship (B08, B07) (B09, B13, B14), the perception of the social sustainable approach of local fashion brands (the latter by recognising realign respondents in a stronger B13/B14 extent than traditional respondents B07, B08, B12) and a perceived lower retail-price/ cost-benefit-ratio of local fashion brands due to LFB short haul (B07, B08, B12). The traditional group perceives a social & ecological sustainable approach to a lower extent than the Realign group. Apparently, the aspect of sustainability is not an important purchase issue within the traditional group (B07). Thus, given cognitive driven perspective, the following local fashion brand attributes are stated with regard to purchase intention and purchase motivation of the low-/mideducation group:

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a) Perception of a made-in-the-region or made-in-Germany fashion manufacturing considering a local fashion brand.  Functional value due to an apparent lower retail-price of a local fashion brand caused by a regional or German fashion supply chain, which occasionally lowers logistic cost (Traditional\Low Education Level\B12: 169 - 173).  Functional value due to a good cost-benefit ratio and a well processed fashion product (Traditional\Low Education Level\B08: 138).  Functional value due capitalizing from the stable economy in the region. Hence, the local area (region, Germany) is supported and guarded by buying local (fashion) brands (Traditional\Low Education Level\B07: 101-107). b) Perceived local fashion brands premium quality (high valuable) in terms of a better fabric/ material, premium processing and a better fit of the local fashion brand as opposed to an international or global fashion brand (Realign\Low-Mid Education Level\ B09/ B13/B14), (Traditional/ Low Education Level\B07). c) Perceived local fashion brands’ sustainable fashion approach in terms of an ecological fashion product and fair, social fashion production process, which draws on the desire to act according to his/her own (sustainable) life style and value concept consistently (intrinsic purchase motivation) (Realign\Low-Mid Education Level\ B13/B14). It is interesting to mention that the perception of a high-quality, artisanal, sustainable, or even high-affiliated/bonded local fashion brand does not apparently fulfil the desire of showmanship due to fashion in general (extrinsic motivation), but more likely the desire to act/ behave corresponding to his/ her realign life-style and life-value concept consistently (intrinsic motivation). This phenomenon appears with respect to almost all realign respondents but regarding (female) low-/mid-educated realign respondents to a greater extent. As a digression, in this context, the requirement of a strong fashion design as a fulfilment of the desire of showmanship and as a driver for purchase intention was mentioned by almost all respondents. Table 51 summarises gained insights by presenting the low-/mid-educated respondents’ (positive attitude group) functional and symbolic values considering a local fashion brand, which leads to corresponding specific purchase motivations. The perceived value (or benefit) of the local fashion brand is attributed to the respondents’ cognitive and affective related statements. Ergo, the following table presents the low-/mid educated respondent local fashion brand purchase motivation, due to the perceived functional or symbolic value of a local fashion brand:

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Respondents with realigned value orientation (B09, B13, B14, B15)

Functional value

Utilitarian benefit  Perceived LFB premium quality and fine craftsmanship guard/ safe the economic power and the local trade in the region Economic benefit:  Lower retail-price caused by short haul.  Good value for money and costbenefit ratio  Capitalizing from a stable local economy.

Utilitarian benefit:  Perceived LFB premium quality in terms of processing, fit and fabric  Positive utilitarian benefit of perceived fine craftsmanship (B09, B13, B14) is just deadened by negative impact of perceived LFB “handmade image” of female Realigns (B04/B15).  Perceived LFB social responsibility and transparent, sustainable supply chain fashion production.

Symbolic value

Aesthetic benefit:  Special processing of the local product and its artisanal details, which suit the need for beauty.  Perceived as “being different”; stands out against the mass fashion production (B07) Focusing the local product, local fashion brand’s origin or story is almost without effect

Symbolic value

Affective Perspective

Cognitive Perspective

Low-/ Mid-Educated respondent Respondents with traditional value orientation (B07, B08, B12)

Hedonic intrinsic benefit:  Strong feeling of affiliation towards LFB is based on the “fear of being left behind” of the own region. Purchase and support LFB suits the need to guard and save the region and the local trade.

Hedonic intrinsic benefit:  Strong feeling of recognition and affiliation caused by the LFB perception of trustful and clear implementation of the common meta fashion trends due to craftsmanship and sustainability (B09, B13, B14).  Feeling of affiliation/ bonding towards LFB due to the need to support LFB and showing appreciation for the performance of local fashion brands and their creators.  Clear and strong feeling of affiliation due to the adoration regarding local fashion brand designers’ autonomy/ self-determination.  Feeling of affiliation due to the strong LFB association with home.

Table 51: Local Fashion Brand Value and Benefit of Low-/Mid-Education Respondents Subsequently, the analysis of high-educated respondents (Modern, Realign) and low/mid-educated respondents (Traditional, Realign) considering the respondents LFB value and purchase motivation illustrates three distinct LFB-cluster. Table 52 presents

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the results of analysed perceived functional and symbolic local fashion brand values due to positive LFB basic attitude groups. A. Traditional positive LFB attitude group, which refers to the respondents’ statements of B07, B08 and B12. B. Intellectual positive LFB attitude group, which refers to the respondents’ statements of B02 and B05. C. Realigned positive LFB attitude group, which refers to the respondents’ statements of B01, B04, B09, B13, B14. Statements of B15, who is characterised by an ambivalent LFB attitude, is considered in respect of multiperspectivity as an imperative characteristic of a qualitative research approach. Additionally, this ensures a low level of result bias according to a purified data consideration.

Perceived symbolic LFB value

Table 52 presents the results of conducted analysis. The results consider perceived functional, or symbolic local fashion brand value within the context of the five brand aspects a consumer benefits from such as a sensual-aesthetic, hedonic, socialextrinsic, hedonic-intrinsic, or economic benefit. Sensual-aesthetic benefit correspond to the desire for beauty.

Hedonic benefit (intrinsic) corresponding to respondents’ basis value orientation.

(A4) Feeling of pride of a LFB, caused by the specific, detailed, artisanal processing and by perceiving it as “being different” to the mass market fashion offer. (B07) (C3) LFB perception partly due to valuable artisanal local fashion offer. (B01, B04)

(C1) Self-Fulfilment and strong Cognitive/ affective stimulation by:  Strong feeling of appreciation and affiliation towards the designer, his performance, courage and selfdetermination, “Local Hero Symbol”. Strong active cheering character relates to low-/mid-educated realign predominately (B13, B15).  Strong feeling of recognition and appreciation by the fact that the perceived common new fashion market trends such as fashion corporate social responsibility and sustainability as well as fine craftsmanship are trustfully and clearly implemented by LFB perceived premium processing, sustainable production process and fine/small/ careful accurate crafts-manship; desire and symbol of performance and change due to adoption and subsequent synthesis of these trends” Active supporting performance character relates to high-educated realign.  strong affiliation towards the local fashion brand’s origin due to “home means love” association (B14) and due to clear brand marketing story telling of LFB personality. “Symbol of home & local unique personality” (B01, B13, B14). Thus, increase consumers purchase self-appreciation by supporting and honouring the local fashion brand’s performance and personality. (B3) Cognitive and affective stimulation  Affiliation towards the LFB as a “Counterpart Symbol” to global brands, “against the global play”, which reveals a passive purchase intention character. Symbolic benefit

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„against the global play“, „Show intellectual superiority“ is more important than functional benefit such as quality. But the benefit due to „against the global play“ has a passive purchase intent character against the realigns intention.  Appreciation as fabric and social-responsible trendindicator (“lighthouse tender”) (B05). (A1) Cognitive and affective stimulation Strong affiliation towards the LFB as “Guard Symbol” of the own region (B07, B08, B12). Social benefit (extrinsic) in terms of a) distinction and affiliation b) social recognition (due to LFB reputation) c) self-display in a social context.

Perceived functional LFB value

(B2) Affiliation to the intellectual group and elevated distinction towards others with lower education level; self-display in terms of “Knowledge-Display Symbol” within intellectual group. (B02/B05) Functional-Utilitarian benefit in terms of the technical/ functional characteristics of LFB and subsequent (social, global) risk reduction by LFB trustworthiness.

Economic benefit

(B1) LFB perception due to premium quality (processing and fabric) on the one hand and distinctive, fine, careful, accurate craftsmanship and social responsibility as trend indicator as well as opposed to the global uniform me-too fashion offer. Thus, reduce the risk of decrease of fashion brand variety caused by globalisation. (B02/B05) (A3) Functional benefit due to perception of LFB premium processing and fine craftsmanship lead to demand of supporting the local fashion economy. Thus, reduce the risk of fear of being left behind of one’s own region, which reveals a passive purchase intention character. (B07, B08, B12) (C2) LFB perception due to premium quality (processing, fit, fabric) and cognitively tangible, transparent sustainable supply chain fashion production. Benefit of fine, accurate craftsmanship just deadened by (B15, B04). Thus, reduce consumer purchase complexity by getting the “standard certainty” of a quality, sustainable local brand refers to the high-educated realign predominately (B01, B04).

(A2) LFB perception good value for money, good cost-benefitratio, due short logistic distances good. (B07, B07/B08/B12) .

Table 52: Focus of Local Fashion Brand Functional and Symbolic Value due to Positive Local Fashion Brand Attitude Groups To ensure a better readability, results are allocated to the corresponding positive LFB basic attitude group A, B or C. Numbers behind the group labelling indicate the relevance of explored LFB value due to the intensity of respondents’ statements. As an example, C1 indicates the realign respondents’ perception of LFB value regarding statements of this group with the highest relevance. All positive LFB attitude groups benefit from functional local fashion brand value as well, even though the symbolic brand value has a strong impact on the consumer fashion brand choice. The Realign group benefits from the symbolic local fashion brand value (hedonic intrinsic) much stronger as opposed to the Traditional- and Intellectualgroup.

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As a result, even though the education level influences respondents’ perception of LFB, the qualitative analysis of purchase motivations of local fashion brands due to positive LFB-attitude respondents discovers respondents value orientation as the leading impact on the clustering of LFB-positive-attitude-groups. To cluster respondents’ statements, the analysis considers the level of similarity of statements. The following results can be constituted as a result:  A high extent of similar statements due to LFB purchase motivation considering the high- and mid-/low-education group with a realigned value orientation can be stated. First, both the high- and mid-/low education groups state the considered implementation of the common fashion market trend’s corporate social responsibility and fine craftsmanship as a purchase motivation factor of local fashion brands, while the high-educated realigns stress this aspect. Secondly, both high- and mid-/low-education realign group respondents stated the feeling of appreciation and affiliation towards the creator and/or designer of the local fashion brand, his performance, courage and self-determination, while mid-/ and loweducated realign respondents emphasized the relevance of this aspect by distinctive emotional and cheering phrases such as local heroes.  A high extent of different motivational aspects due to the high-education level with modern value orientation as opposed to the high-education level with a realigned value orientation can be stated. Firstly, regarding table 46 the numbers B3 and B2 correspond to the modern value high-educated respondents. B3 expresses the perceived symbolic LFB advantage due to the perception of a LFB as a counterpart symbol against the global play. Further B2 expresses the symbolic LFB advantage due to the perception of a LFB as a knowledge-display symbol. Both, B3 and B2 reveal a passive LFB purchase intention. In contrast, the number C1 represents the realigned value high-educated respondents perceiving a different symbolic LFB advantage due to the perception of a LFB as a performing symbol supporting and honouring the local fashion brand hero and its personality, which reveals an active LFB purchase intention. Secondly, according to table 46, the number B1 represents the modern value higheducated respondents perceiving a functional LFB advantage due to premium LFB accurate workmanship by reducing the risk of fashion brand variety decrease. In contrast, high-educated realigned value respondents, corresponding to number C2, perceive a functional LFB advantage due to premium LFB quality reducing the purchase complexity demanding the “standard-certainty” of a premium, sustainable or valuable handcrafted fashion brand.  A high extent of different statements is noticed due to LFB purchase motivation considering the mid-/low education level with traditional values as opposed to the

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mid-/low-education level with a realigned value orientation, which corresponds to number C1-C2. Traditional value respondents (mid-/Low-education) perceive a symbolic LFB advantage due to the defence and guard the own local economy reducing the risk of left-behind of the own region, which complies to A1. In contrast, mid-/low-educated realign respondents underscore and accentuate their perception of a LFB symbolic value due to:  the strong affiliation and appreciation towards the local fashion brand designer’s self-determined and courageous personality, which complies with C1.  the stronger affiliation and appreciation towards the local fashion brand’s performance and personality, which is perceived by the implementation of a clear local brand story, which complies with C1. Accordingly, the perceived implementation of the common fashion market trends of sustainability and fine craftsmanship and the standard certainty of premium quality suits the life-style of the higher-educated realigned value respondents most. Secondly, the perceived affiliation and appreciation towards the explored distinctive personality of the local fashion brand and/or its creator suits the life-style of the lower/mid-educated realigned value respondents most. Hence, aforementioned results lead to the subsequent positive attitude groups towards local fashion brands A, B and C. These groups are discovered due to the qualitative content analysis, clustered by respondents’ value orientation and education level: Cluster

LFB benefit

Education Level

Value basis

Basic Symbolic LFB trigger of Attitude Purchase Motivation

LFB purchase intention

Social Media attracted

A

symbolic/ functional

low/mid

traditional

positive

Guard own region

passive

low

B

functional/ symbolic

high

modern

positive

Knowledge Display/ Against the global play

passive

mid

C1

symbolic/ functional

low-/ mid

realign

positive

Cheer the LFB personality

active

high

C2

functional/ symbolic

high

realign

positive

Support the LFB performance

active

high

Table 53: Basic Results due to Positive Local Fashion Brand Attitude Cluster A. The traditional guardians have a positive attitude towards local fashion brands, because they notice the premium processing and craftsmanship of local fashion brands. Additionally, they notice good value for money and cost-benefit ratio due to local fashion brands. Even though some respondents of this group appreciate the

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attention for handcrafted product details, their purchase intention is predominantly based on the fact that they want to guard the own region by supporting and purchasing local and/ or regional fashion brands. This is attributed to the statements of respondents B07, B08, B12 (traditional value orientation/ low- and mid- education level). Furthermore, they want to reduce the risk of left-behind the own region. The Traditional Guardians are characterised by a passive LFB purchase intention. A possible local fashion brand strategy to target the Traditional Guardians can be derived from mentioned purchase motivational aspects, as follows: The local fashion brand is supposed to be managed by a strong affiliation to the region’s economic success and stability. This is mainly accomplished by a regional production leveraging local resources such as local manufacturers and local labour. B. The Modern Intellectuals have a positive attitude towards local fashion brands, because they recognise a premium LFB quality with regard to the fine, careful and accurate workmanship. They are very knowledgeable about the local speciality due to local fashion brands. Predominately their purchase intention is based on the functional benefit of local fashion brands due to the perceived premium craftsmanship. Further their purchase intention is based on the fact that they intend to be above others using the knowledge of the special field of local fashion brands and act superior by supporting and purchasing local fashion brands. Third, their purchase intention draws on the perceived symbolic LFB advantage due to the perception of a LFB as a counterpart symbol against the global play. On the other hand, their purchase intention towards local fashion brands results from their intention to reduce the risk of the decrease of fashion variety. The modern intellectuals are characterised by a passive LFB purchase intention. LFB are used as a means to an end. A possible local fashion brand strategy to target the Modern Intellectuals can be derived from mentioned purchase motivational aspects, as follows: The local fashion brand is supposed to be managed by a strong affiliation to the origin’s specialty. This is accomplished by leveraging special symbolic or functional resources of the region such as the typical symbolic fashion culture of Berlin or the typical functional craftsmanship due to a special traditional costume of the region such as the Black Forest Costume. On the other hand, the strategy of the affiliation to the origin’s specialty is accomplished by the affiliation to the special ability of the local designer such as his special manual skills in terms of cut/pattern making or in terms of the implementation of the passionate attention to product details. C. The Realigns have a positive attitude towards local fashion brands, because they appreciate the premium quality, certainty of transparent, sustainable production process, and fine craftsmanship of local fashion brands. Additionally, they have a strong appreciation and affiliation to the designer’s performance and to his/her unique, distinctive and courageous brand personality. They have a stronger

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purchase intention toward local fashion brands, because they perceive local fashion brands as a fashion concept, which accomplish the implementation of the strong common current fashion market trends CSR and fine craftsmanship. This corresponds to the number C1 in table 46. In addition, the LFB is perceived by them as having a premium quality and tangible, transparent sustainable supply chain fashion production. This corresponds with number C2 in table 52. The perceived implementation of these two strong fashion market trends refers predominantly to the higher educated realigned value respondents, whereas the perceived affiliation and appreciation towards the explored distinctive personality of the local fashion brand and/or its creator rather focuses on the low-/mid educated realigned value respondents. Both aspects suit the life-style concept of the realigned value respondents unambiguously Thus, LFB are perceived by the high-, mid- and low-educated realigns reducing their purchase complexity associating a local fashion brand with a sustainable, social responsible and premium processed fashion brand on a guaranteed standard. Further, LFB are perceived by the low-, mid-educated realigns increasing their purchase selfappreciation by supporting, honouring and cheering the local fashion brand’s personality. Given this, the local fashion brand concept corresponds/ suits their life-style concept, which is dominated by and draws on value-key-indicators such as performance, pragmatism, multi-optionality, new synthesis, and change (realignment). Especially new synthesis and change is associated with the challenge to achieve a consensus about the demand of ´fast fashion´ on the one hand and the common fashion market trends CSR and careful, accurate craftsmanship on the other hand. The realigns are characterised by an active LFB purchase intention. A possible local fashion brand strategy to target the realigns can be derived from mentioned purchase motivational aspects as follows: The local fashion brand is supposed to be managed by a strong affiliation to the origin’s performance due to its sustainability and craftsmanship. Thus, the production origination process is supposed to be made transparent, tangible and genuine due to the social and ecological sustainable fashion approach. A clear, genuine brand story is supposed to illustrate the affiliation to the responsible and self-determined creator of the brand to showcase his personality and social responsibility. Summarised, corresponding local fashion brand strategies are explored due to mentioned insights. Cluster A: Affiliation to the region’s economy Cluster B: Affiliation to origin speciality. Cluster C: Affiliation to origin’s performance, unique personality and sustainability. Figure 28 illustrates the positioning and respondents cluster due to value orientation and education level.

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Figure 28: Final Positive Local Fashion Brand Attitude Cluster (with reference to Sinus Milieus)

Given three groups estimated with a positive attitude towards local fashion brands considering the education level and the personal value orientation, the explored and analysed statements of the Realign-Group had the most important impact on the research question. This is attributed to four aspects: First, the realign group is constituted by a stronger purchase motivation, which is expressed and emphasized by the clear active LFB purchase intention of the realign group. The strong purchase motivation draws on the positive attributes of premium quality, careful, accurate craftsmanship and social responsibility and sustainability, which constitutes the LFB performance. It draws on the strong meaning of perceived affiliation to the local origin, which is caused by the perception of stronger appreciation towards local fashion brands and the desire to actively support the creators and the designer’s performance and his personality. Furthermore, the strong purchase motivation draws on the corresponding value orientation of “realign and change” in particular. The realignment (and synthesis) is stated by the realign-group due to the strong invitation of a true, transparent, sustainable fashion supply chain management and the perceived local fashion brand characteristic of social responsibility and sustainability to that effect. In contrast, the positive-attitude-group A (The traditional LFB Guardians) emphasizes the purchase motivation due to the meaning of affiliation to a region and corresponding value orientation keep-and-guard, which might be of minor importance

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due to the fundamental constant of (fast) shift/change of fashion market trends and the fashion segment in general. Realign respondents’ distinct purchase intention can be distinguished due to high, and mid-/low-education respondents. The distinct purchase intention of higher educated Realign consumers (B01/B04) is constituted to their almost positive evaluation by focusing on the perceived high-quality character, artisanal craftsmanship and transparent, sustainable production process and approach of a local fashion brand. These criteria draw rather on functional and cognitive controlled aspects. Mid- and low-educated Realign fashion users evaluate local fashion brands positively by focusing on more symbolic and affective aspects of the perceived local fashion brand. Thus, low-/ mid realign fashion users illustrate rather “the courage of the local designer” (Realign\ Mid Education Level\B13: 174 - 180), the “love and tradition towards the home and origin” of a local fashion brand (Realign\ Low education level\ B14:374) the social representative aspect of belonging to a group by high quality craftsmanship and workmanship and the apace, fast changing different inspiring creations, which constitutes their self-determination, autonomy and the idea of doing their own thing. Accordingly, low-/mid realign fashion users state their strong local fashion brand purchase intention unambiguously. Second, the realign group is constituted by stronger positive affective statements and positive emotional bonding towards a local fashion brand’s creator and the appreciation of his performance. In contrast, the positive-attitude-group B (modern LFB Intellectuals) possesses specific knowledge about local and regional fashion brands and partly boasts about their knowledge. Additionally, this group emphasizes the fight against the global play as an important purchase intention to support local fashion brands. Purchasing a local fashion brand to feel superior or to punish the global mighty brands with a feeling of annoyance is a significantly weaker purchase motivation than mentioned purchase motivation of the positive-attitude-group C. Third, the realign group is constituted by an additional strong symbolic brand value perception of a local fashion brand, complemented by a functional brand value. The stronger relevance of a positive symbolic brand value as opposed to a functional brand value is a specific characteristic of fashion brands, which is quoted in the introduction (chapter 1) and literature review (chapter 2). Fourth, the realign group is constituted by a higher attraction level to social media related to the importance of social media in the fashion field. This is attributed to the more open-minded and intense use of digital applications of social media such as fashion blogs or Facebook fashion posts. Additionally, it is attributed to the more purposeful and targeted social media information research of the Realign-Group due to fashion trend content at an earlier stage of fashion trend communication as opposed to the Traditional-Guardians, who rather use printed/ published fashion trend information in fashion magazines.

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After demonstrating the four approving references regarding the relevant impact of the realign-group statements on the research question, it is imperative to explore the individual value orientation of the realign group at this stage of the investigation in detail. It was mentioned due to the presented sinus milieus theory (chapter 3), realign life-style and life-value concept draw on value-key-indicators such as performance, pragmatism, multi-optionality, new synthesis, and change (realignment). In particular, the analysis of the realign purchase motivation shows that the realigns pursue the idea of a new synthesis due to new social accepted values such as fine craftsmanship, CSR and a local genuine, original personality on the one hand and established fashion benefit of a fast fashion global design on the other hand. Even though the impact of fine craftsmanship and CSR is stated by the high-educated realigns more emphatically, low-/mid-educated realigns consider this effect due to local fashion brands. However, low-/mid-educated realigns focus on the local genuine, original personality of a local fashion brand, which they balance against the benefit of a fast fashion global design, which is stated by B14 (Low Education Level\B14: 399). Thus, realigns’ value concept regarding local fashion brands is attributed to: a) Appreciation for (new) high-quality (premium) fashion performance (fabric, fit, workmanship) (Performance) and multi-optionality due to a local fashion brand’s offer (Realign/ High-Education, B01). b) Appreciation for the new fashion market trend of artisanal craftsmanship (creative avant-garde) in 2017/18, searching for new synthesis and solutions (Realign/ HighEducation, B04). c) Appreciation for the ongoing fashion market trend of CSR in 2017/18, searching for steady synthesis and clear solution (Realign/ Low-Education, B14). d) Strong need for affiliation/ bonding to a unique region, to a well-known regional designer/ personality, or a social group within the region due to local fashion brands, such as “brand coming from our region” (Low-/Mid-Education, realign/B09), or “our local fashion heroes”. This need corresponds to the statements concerning the local genuine, original personality of a local fashion brand (Low-/Mid-Education, Realign/B13). e) Need for a pragmatic fashion solution refers to local fashion brands being a good value for money (Realign/ Low-/Mid-Education, B09). f) Strong need for (fast) change and variation in style, which contrasts and complements the desire of change to a sustainable fashion offer. Hence, this might attract hedonic realign consumers to change and to ultimately realign towards new fashion solutions, which fulfils the desire of a (fast) changing fashion offer and fashion sustainability simultaneously (Realign/ Low-/Mid-Education, B14, B15). The latter aspect regarding the need of change and shift needs to be distinguished. New synthesis and realignment are attributed to change and development such as:

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a) The change/ shift from wilful waste to sustainability (B01, B14). b) The change/ shift from the global brand affinity of the big fashion companies to the local small, personal fashion brands (B13). c) The change/ shift from the industrial, commercial fashion to the artisanal, fine and honest craftsmanship (B01, B04). d) The change/ shift from obscure, petty and irrelevant (almost global stated) fashion brand offers to a meaningful fashion offer, which is stated by B14 associating local fashion brands with home, appreciation, love and personality especially (B14). e) The fast change/ shift from one fashion trend to another, which implicates the strong interest of the Realign-Fashion-Group considering fashion trends at the earliest stage of communication by the fashion industry or fashion opinion leader. In this context, it is interesting to mention, that apparently the realign (high-fashion involvement) fashion consumer might be a prisoner of circumstances. On the one hand, the realign oriented fashion consumer desires the change to and synthesis of a meaningful, sustainable, high-quality and trendy, artisanal-design fashion brand offer, which conveys him the good feelings of “doing the right thing” and “good looking”. On the other hand, however, he is captured by the idea of an international/ global/ cosmopolitan design-approved and driven fashion design, which he needs for his (extrinsic) desire of self-display and appreciation in the fashion community. Thus, he is (intrinsically) motivated to purchase a local fashion brand, fulfilling the desire for meaningful, sustainable, high-quality and trendy, artisanal-design, but he also feels inhibited by the localness of the design. The latter might not fulfil the desire of an international representative, prestigious fashion design or even be associated with a petty (or staid) design approach (Realign\Low-Mid Education Level\ B15). Additionally, the need of fast fashion-trend change is mentioned by one respondent, even though the local fashion brand is not characterised by a fast-changing fashion trend offer (Realign\Low-Mid Education Level\ B15). Almost all realigns agree that local fashion brands might have a clearer and more compact brand identity benefit from the closeness to the inner brand core as opposed to international or global fashion brands. Summarised, accordingly, the positive attitude local fashion group C (The LFB Realigns) can be constituted by a clearer purchase motivation and positive purchase intention, stronger positive emotional affiliation towards LFB (predominant positive symbolic value of a local fashion brand) and especially a higher social media attraction level as opposed to the positive local fashion group The Modern LFB Intellectuals and the Traditional LFB Guardians.

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The recognised phenomenon of this investigation illustrates the observation that there are still some local fashion brands prompting consumers’ purchase intention, even though the performance of global fashion brands is perceived with a higher quality or reputation (chapter 1). The derived research question asked for the special impact of perceived brand localness on consumers’ brand association and brand attitude. Respondents of the LFB realigns are recognised with a basic positive consumer brand attitude towards local fashion brands. Additionally, this homogenous group is recognised with a higher purchase intention considering local fashion brands. Gained insights from this positive-attitude-group explain corresponding emotions towards local fashion brands, the (purchase) motivational structure regarding local fashion brands and those attributes/ variables with the most relevant impact on consumers’ attitude towards local fashion brands. The latter relations are illustrated by a LFB structure equation model. The explanation approach (and final theory derivation) draws on mentioned insights. Therefore, focusing on the main research question of the qualitative study, the sample of the “Realign-Fashion-Group” is the data basis for the subsequent, complement quantitative study, which is implemented by social media analysis. Gained insights of the qualitative study are used to refine research questions explained by the subsequent quantitative analysis. Refined research questions are illustrated in chapter 3.3.4.2. Given discovered positive-basic- attitude-groups and its corresponding explanations of purchase motivation (chapter 4.2.6), the exploration and analysis of the respondents’ relevant attitude attributes due to local fashion brands follows. Thus, the respondents’ stated characteristics and attributes regarding local fashion brands need to be examined primarily. 4.2.7

Attitude towards Local Fashion Brands

4.2.7.1 Framework due to Relevant Characteristics This category refers to statements considering the question “What characteristics and attributes do local fashion brands have?” within the structural interview guide (see appendix 3). The exploration of local fashion brand characteristics is the basis for the development of a structural equation modelling due to local fashion brands. As opposed to an association of a local fashion brand, which more likely describes abstract statements in terms of pictures, metaphors and symbols, characteristics and attributes reflect concrete statements in terms of evaluative stated variables towards local fashion brands. High performer characteristics should determine the factors of positioning models by degree of affiliation to local fashion brands’ origin (143 codings, Distinguished code/ category ´Characteristics of LFB) and the level of coverage (63 codings). The Localfashion-brand-positioning is developed by considering respondents’ statements due to a clear determination of local fashion brands by presenting 60 fashion brand logos (see

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Structural Interview Guide). Subsequently, discovered characteristics and attributes provide concrete statements about the context of potential, evaluative (not observable) independent variables, which might be underlined by evolved associations (chapter 4.2.3) content wise, as follows: First, a fundamental potential context and/or relation (fundamental coherence) of discovered local fashion brand characteristics: As an example, almost all respondents state a relation between the local fashion brand characteristic artisanal, accurate workmanship and premium quality. Another example constitutes the coherence between the perceived personality and individuality of a local fashion brand and the local fashion brand’s attractiveness, which is attributed to the respondents’ LFB perception as a trendsetter due to sustainability and fine craftsmanship. As an example, the respondents B01, B05 and B14 state the mentioned relationship accordingly (B01:124, B05:45, B14:278). In the following, the corresponding original interview reference is illustrated in a shortened way to provide better readability. Thus, the number just behind the respondent’s ID-number refers to the paragraph of the original interview due to the applied MAXQDA software. As an example, the variable of perceived-attractiveness is perceived by almost all respondents affecting the consumer’s local fashion brand attitude. The connecting line illustrates the relation and possible impact on the variable. PFBL--- personality/individuality--- attractiveness---consumers LFB attitude Second, a direction of the potential relation: As an example, local fashion brands are perceived (Perceived Fashion Brand Localness) and characterized with a higher level of artisanship (artisanal craftsmanship), which had an impact on the perception of local fashion brand quality (fabric, workmanship, fit) and had an impact on the perception of local fashion brand design. Additionally, both the product quality and the fashion design affect the consumers LFB attitude. The arrow illustrates the direction of the impact on the variable. PFBL  artisanal craftsmanship  product quality  consumer’s LFB attitude PFBL  artisanal craftsmanship  LFB fashion design  consumer’s LFB attitude In addition, almost all respondents state that the fashion product quality in terms of fit, fabric and processing is perceived with a premium character regarding local fashion brands in general. PFBLLFB product qualityconsumer’s LFB attitude Third, a potential positive, negative or neutral impact of the analysed relation: Almost all respondents who perceive local fashion brands as more artisanal, recognise a positive impact on the perceived product quality (B01: 90-93, B04: 244) and the perceived fashion design (love for details, B06: 260) of the local fashion brand (fit, fabric, craftsmanship) because respondents perceive high appreciation and recognition with artisanal products due to product quality. However, some (female)

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respondents recognise a neutral or even negative impact on local fashion brands’ fashion design regarding the perception of artisanship (B04: 188, B15: 74). Fourth, a possible intensity of the direction of the relation and coherence respectively. The intensity of the direction can be proved by the perceived relevance of the category. As an example, almost all respondents state that the fashion product quality in terms of fit, fabric and processing is a relevant characteristic of local fashion brands in general. Additionally, almost all respondents note that the fabric quality, fit quality and workmanship quality are highly relevant when it comes to fashion brand purchase intention. Thus, the local fashion brand characteristic of perceived premium quality, which is specified by the respondents into a better fit, better fabric and premium workmanship and processing, has a high relevance with respect to the consumer’s local fashion brand attitude. Local fashion brands are perceived as more artisanal, which on the one hand leads to a positive impression of premium product quality among almost all respondents. On the other hand, this artisanal characteristic might have less relevance or even a negative impact on the fashion design by associating it with handmade pattern to a few respondents. Finally, according to the SOR Model, it is approvable how the input of perceived-brandlocalness has a positive significant effect on the consumer’s LFB-Attitude by the respondents’ perception of a premium quality of a local fashion brand. Exploring the relation and coherences of local fashion brand characteristics hence leads to the illustration of independent variables coherences (such as the variable artisanal and premium quality), affecting the depended variable of consumers’ local fashion brand attitude. Given the current status of this investigation, this is the basis for the development of a structure equation model based on the consumers’ attitude of local fashion brand, which constitutes the final deductive analysis of the exploring qualitative content data analysis. Summarized, the analysis of statements regarding the characteristics and attributes of local fashion brands such as artisanal, down-to-earth (Low Education Level\B12: 130), premium quality (B04: 224), tangible (B01: 94) or clear personality (B14:278) explores on the one hand the designated characteristics in terms of independent variables which apparently affect the attitude of local fashion brands. In light of the derived research questions, the analysis of the characteristics and attributes of local fashion brands and the insights of analysed local fashion brand associations discover a basis for the development of a structural equation model of local fashion brands. Especially the development of the structural equation model theses will present insights as to what dependent variables have a positive impact on a consumer’s local fashion brand attitude and what theoretical explanation approach is ultimately appropriate for this phenomenon.

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Repeated data coding and analysis of respondents’ interviews causes a clear subcoding structure, which represents the perceived characteristics of local fashion brands. It is important to mention that discovered and exposed descriptions of characteristics contain respondents’ positive, negative or neutral estimations of that characteristic. In a next analysis step, illustrated characteristics are examined according to their local fashion brand attitude direction, intensity and relevance within the qualitative content data analysis process, which is described in detail in chapter 3. Explored characteristics are illustrated in descending numerical order of number of codings as follows: No.

Characteristics of LFB

1

Affiliation towards LFB

Number of codings

2

Level of Coverage

63

3.

High quality

33

4

Sustainability

28

5

Small

27

6

Local and German

23

7

Clear identification

21

8

Not modern, dusty

17

9

Clear identity

14

10

Artisanal, handcrafted

11

11

Familiar, awareness

9

12

Tangible, Transparent, credible

8

13

Clear, strong personality

8

14

Local story telling

7

15

Local and regional

6

16

Local and super-local

4

17

In the proximity

4

18

Trustworthiness

3

19

Stick to values

3

20

More Value for money

3

21

Regional smaller than local

2

22

Missing international style

2

23

Personal, individual

2

24

Appreciation

2

25

Innovative, Modern, Trend

2

26

Passion for Detail

2

27

Different

2

28

Rarity

1

29

Cheaper

1

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No.

Characteristics of LFB

30

Individuality

Number of codings 1

31

Tradition

1

32

More diversity

1

Table 54: Explored Local Fashion Brand Characteristics Figure 29 shows the structure of categories and codings according to discovered characteristics of local fashion brands.

Figure 29: Distinguished Category Characteristics of LFB´ (with reference to MAXQDA)

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2.491 statements representing sub-codes are discovered and analysed, which explain the code characteristics and attributes of local fashion brands. Within this iterative coding process, the analysis of 467 statements produce 33 sub-codes. Generally, some respondents differentiate between national, regional and super-local concepts with respect to the characteristics of a local fashion brand. It is important to discern that all mentioned concepts are influenced by respondents’ considerations due to the coverage of a brand (level of distribution and coverage) and due the origin of the brand (affiliation to the culture or creator of brand’s origin). The national concept is stated by some respondents just equating local fashion brands with national German fashion brands, because of its German residence and genesis (Low Education Level\B17: 101 - 107), or because they did not recognize them outside of Germany (Low Education Level\B10: 136 - 137). Some respondents recognize a German national fashion brand and the local brand just partly on the same level due to a circumvallation of a distinct region (High Education Level\B01: 85 - 86). The regional concept of a fashion brand is on the one hand perceived on the same level as a local brand in terms of a lower coverage and on the other hand it is recognised in a ´closer relation/affiliation to its origin´ in terms of a traditional costume, which represents the historical cultural characteristics of the region (High Education Level\B02: 2 - 2). One respondent uses the definition of a super-local fashion brand (Mid Education Level\B09: 131 - 135). Thus, the perception of a super-local fashion brand draws on a concept containing:  a very small company producing small quantities but pursuing a national growing strategy.  fashion articles, which are attained only in a really small distinct region.  fashion articles with a high quality.  a target group with a higher fashion involvement. The category affiliation to the origin has the strongest impact on the perception of a local fashion brand. Additionally, the affiliation to the origin influences further characteristics and attributes of a local fashion brand. The strong impact is attributable on the one hand to the highest number of indications, which is shown by the representation of 142 indications of the category affiliation to origin. On the other hand, respondents stated the most affective and powerful statements due to these categories. In this context, B05 states about the characteristic of local fashion brands: B.: „It is just a good feeling. I can imagine, that a brand just like Derbe will be distributed globally sometime. So that you might purchase it at the airport in Hong Kong. BUT nevertheless, Derbe still stands for the region Hamburg. It will be still a local brand, because you can buy the FEELING of the city and lifestyle of Hamburg with it.” (High Education Level\B05: 87 - 87).

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Given the research question it is imperative to investigate the deeper meaning of statements considering the important category affiliation to origin (Category 6/01), which are influenced by different perceptions of the origin concept. Statements are clustered and distinguished into the following subcategories. (see figure 30 allocation of codings affiliation to origin and level of coverage coding quantities in descending order) a) Origin perceived due to the region’s culture. (come-from-region-culturally). All respondents emphasize the impact of the region’s culture on the local fashion brand perception, which is documented by 63 codings. As an example, B01 stresses the cultural identity of a region, which dominates the characteristic of a local fashion brand (High Education Level\B01: 84 - 84). B03 mentions the regional dialect and the typical regional behaviour – which are unambiguous cultural aspects of a region - as a significant characteristic of a local fashion brand (High Education Level\B03: 66 - 67). It is important to recognize that both the area within Germany (for example Berlin) and the area Germany are partly perceived as a cultural homogenous region, which is referred to the localness of a fashion brand. b) Origin perceived due to the creator’s personality. (made-by-creator). Some respondents directly associate the origin with the creators’ personality such as B11 states about the German fashion label Michalsky, which creator and designer comes from Berlin and is well-known by the casting TV show “Germany Next TopModel” (Mid Education Level\B11: 120 – 121). c) Origin perceived due to the domicile in Germany or a specific region within Germany (come-from-region-geographically) Some respondents recognise the localness of a fashion brand with respect to an area within Germany, such as the Schwarzwald or the area Munich (High Education Level\B16: 141 – 141). d) Origin perceived due to a within region/ Germany production (Made-in-region). Some respondents perceive fashion brand as local because they know it is produced in a German area, or in Germany respectively (Low Education Level\B12: 130 – 131). e) Origin perceived due to a specific fashion segment. (belongs-to-niche-segment) As an example, B12 states that the fashion brand Seidensticker is perceived as a local fashion brand, because he associates this brand with shirts and underwear as a typical German niche segment: B.: „Seidensticker is a local fashion brand. Small. Typical German. (...). I know it from the past. Underwear and shirts with this kind of rose. I know this just from Germany.” (Low Education Level\B12: 95 - 99).

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f) Origin perceived due to the incurrence or genesis in the region, or in Germany. The genesis of a brand is stated by B17 as a characteristic element of local fashion brand due to a high affiliation to origin (High Education Level\B16: 171 - 173). In summary, figure 30 shows the structure and number of 206 codings according to the categories’ affiliation to origin and level of coverage and their subcategories. The latter are analysed in the following, supported by MAXQDA analysing tool of grid summary analysis to gain new insights.

Figure 30: Allocation of Codings due to Affiliation to Origin/ Level of Coverage (with reference to MAXQDA Code-Matrix-Browser)

Statements considering the category level of coverage (category 6/02) are affected by different perceptions of the coverage-concept. Respondents state a lower level of coverage regarding a local fashion brand according to the following distinguished subcategories: a) b) c) d) e) f)

Lower coverage perceived due to the attainability in the local area/region Lower coverage perceived due to not being attainable internationally. Lower coverage perceived due to distribution solely in the region. Lower coverage perceived due to the attainability in Germany. Lower coverage perceived due to limitation in quantities. Lower coverage perceived due to the proximity to the brand core.

The high-/mid-/ and low- educated realign respondents were discovered as a positive local fashion brand attitude group with a strong purchase motivation toward local fashion brands. In light of the main research question, which investigates the impact of perceived fashion brand localness on a consumer’s positive attitude, a detailed analysis of categories and explanations of characteristics is especially made due to the respondents with a distinct realigned value orientation in the following.

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Grid Table 31 presents relevant local fashion brand characteristics according to realign respondents with a high-/ mid-and low education level and a realigned value orientation.

Figure 31: Grid Table presenting Characteristics of Realign Respondents (with reference to MAXQDA)

As mentioned in the beginning of this chapter, the analysis of these characteristics serves as a basis for the exploration of the relevant attitude attributes, which prompted the respondents’ positive attitude towards local fashion brands. To explain a positive consumer attitude towards local fashion brands, respondents’ relevant local fashion brand attitude attributes are applicable to the development of a structural equation model of local fashion brands (chapter 4.2.7.2). The evolving qualitative fundament of the development of structural equation model theses and the motive-structure due to local fashion brand perception is the basis for the research explanation approach of positive-attitude-groups. As a result, explored and discovered LFB characteristics of realign respondents are presented in the Grid Table 31. A detailed analysis of presented results with reference to Original German Citation is presented in the appendix. Insights serve as a text analysis input for the subsequent quantitative analysis and the social media

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4.2.7.2 Attitude Attributes of Local Fashion Brands The qualitative analysis of associations and purchase motivations resulted in three positive LFB attitude groups. Additionally, corresponding explanation approaches due to these positive attitude groups were developed. Subsequently, according to the research question, variables and attributes stated by that group, which is affected most by the perception of local fashion brands, are supposed to be examined in detail. Accordingly, the qualitative analysis resulted in the realign attitude group being significantly affected by the perception of local fashion brands. Hence, the detailed conducted analysis of realign respondents resulted in the following subsequent insights of relevant attributes of positive basic attitude towards local fashion brands:     

Associations towards local fashion brands Determination of local fashion brands Basic attitude towards local fashion brands. Purchase motivation towards local fashion brands and Characteristics of local fashion brands

Those relevant attributes are considered, which affect the consumer’s attitude towards local fashion brands. Respondents’ statements about relevant attributes regarding the perception of local fashion brands are mentioned as independent variables. The independent variables affect the attitude, which is clarified as depended variable. Accordingly, in this context, the illustration of a qualitative theoretical fundament of a structural equation model is applicable. Results serves as a basis for the explanation approach considering a positive attitude towards local fashion brands. Those resulting theories and hypotheses might be a strong foundation for further investigations in this field by other researchers. Thus, the following analysis refers to independent variables, which effectively might impact consumers’ local fashion brand attitude and prompt positive basic attitude of illustrated positive-attitude-group C. The following qualitative analysis illustrates the explored and analysed influence of independent variables on the dependent variable local fashion brand attitude, whether: Firstly, there is a respondent stated indicatory coherence between the independent variables and the dependent variable:

Secondly, the coherence indicates the respondent stated direction of the discovered impact on the local fashion brand’s attitude:

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Thirdly, the scaled coherence ultimately indicates the respondent stated evaluated direction of the discovered impact on the independent variable or on the local fashion brand attitude:

Fourthly, the coherence ultimately indicates the respondent stated intensity of the discovered impact on the independent variable or on the local fashion brand attitude. A higher intensity of the alleged impact is recognised, if both high and low-/mid educated respondents state this context. It is illustrated by a bold connecting line.

All illustrated coherences considering the independent and dependent variables are discovered and analysed by the respondents’ statements in detail. With respect to the quality criteria of the study (chapter 3.3.3.1) the coherences are proved and illustrated by considerations and manifestation of original quotations, which show selective plausibility, opposite case examples and contradiction. Additionally, the reasoning of conclusions draws on these statements.

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Figure 32: Model Illustration of Local Fashion Brand Attitude Attribute Coherences 1. PFBLprestige  qualityconsumer’s LFB attitude A few respondents recognise that a perceived localness of a fashion brand is related to the prestige of a brand. One respondent states that the prestige positively influences the quality of a local fashion brand. As an example, B01 notices the specialist prestige of the local fashion brand Seidensticker, which is influenced by the perception of the special niche segment shirts. B01 recognises a higher prestige caused by the quality certainty and quality standard of local fashion brands due to their allocation to a special fashion segment particularly (B01:23). However, a few respondents mention a negative impact of a perceived local fashion brand on the prestige. As an example, B13 states that he feels uneasy to purchase a local fashion brand because of its prestige. He scrutinises the public image and the impression a local fashion brand makes on his community (B13:249).

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2. PFBLprestige  attractivenessconsumer’s LFB attitude A few (high-, and low-/mid- educated) state an influence of the LFB- prestige on the attractiveness of a local fashion brand. One respondent states that the local fashion brands prestige is not as well appreciated within his community as a well-known global fashion brand. He criticises the attractiveness of a local fashion brand concerning its public image regarding his special fashion community (B13: 242 - 243). It is interesting to mention that on the other hand, B13 notices the modern and trendy approach of a local fashion brand and its positive impact on a local fashion brand attractiveness (B13: 214-219). One respondent states a positive impact of the LFB-prestige on the attractiveness, which is caused by his remark that local fashion brands are not attainable everywhere as opposed to global brands. The latter aspect increases the attractiveness of the local fashion brand by its apparent exclusiveness (B01:122). 3. PFBLprestige  designconsumer’s LFB attitude Some respondents state that the local fashion brand’s prestige negatively influences the design and the look. They quote that local fashion brands do not change their fashion design approach very often, have even less contact to local fashion design (B15: 132) or that they do not like the fashion design of a local fashion brand, even if they have a strong positive attitude towards it. (B04: 189). 4. PFBLartisanal craftsmanship  Prestige One realign respondent states that the perceived attribute of artisanal craftsmanship affects a positive prestige. In this context, B01 mentions that the artisanal craftsmanship has a positive impact on the prestige of a local fashion brand, because fashion consumers makes/put/set a positive statement with a local fashion brand (B01:122). 5. PFBLartisanal craftsmanship valuable processing/ handmade pattern qualityconsumer’s LFB attitude All (high-, low-/mid-educated) realign respondents state that a local fashion brand is strongly related to an artisanal craftsmanship. Hence, the relation is conceived as a high intensity coherence. As an example, B13 states the artisanal craftsmanship of a local fashion brand unequivocally. Additionally, all realign respondents recognise a strong coherence between the variable artisanal craftsmanship and a valuable processing of a local fashion brand. B09 states the strong impact of artisanal craftsmanship on the valuable processing (B09:272-276).

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Almost all respondents confirm the positive influence of artisanal craftsmanship on the variable handmade pattern. The latter attribute is an important qualitative factor in fashion design. Both the valuable processing and the handmade pattern are positively related to the premium quality of a local fashion brand. Accordingly, B01 emphasises the ultimate influence of the strong artisanal craftsmanship on the handmade pattern and the perceived premium quality of a local fashion brand (B01: 120). B04 realises the impact of valuable processing on the perceived premium quality unequivocally (B04: 244-245) 6. PFBLartisanal craftsmanship  handmade pattern  design consumer’s LFB attitude Some (high-, low-/mid-educated) respondents mention that the handmade character of a local fashion brand is related to the design and the look of a local fashion brand. One respondent states, on the other hand, that the handmade character positively affects the look of the fashion brand in terms of corporate design when it comes to passionate attention to details (B13:217). Female respondents in particular state that the handmade pattern negatively affects the perception of the fashion design and the look of a local fashion brand in terms of being old-fashioned and staid (B04:124 201204). One respondent states that each attribute of a local fashion brand appears attractive to her, excluding the design approach. She states that the attractiveness of a local fashion brand is inherently attributed to the valuable processing (B04: 89). 7. PFBLartisanal craftsmanship  attractiveness  consumer’s LFB attitude A few respondents state that the artisanal craftsmanship is related to the attractiveness of a local fashion brand in a positive manner, which is caused by the clear fashiontrend implementation of fine craftsmanship and the perception of exclusiveness. The latter is attributed to the small number of manufactured fashion units and the perceived lower reach/ coverage. To this effect, B01 states the attractiveness of a local fashion brand due to its exclusiveness and no offer of mass distribution, which is stated by the association of treasures, or trumps. Fine craftsmanship was recognised as a longtermed current fashion market trend (B01:122). 8. PFBLtrendy/ modern  attractivenessconsumer’s LFB attitude A few (high-, and low-/mid educated) realign respondents state the coherence between a local fashion brand and a trendy and modern fashion approach. Thus, it is characterised by a higher intensity of coherence. One respondent states a positive direction of this coherence unambiguously (B13: 215). However, a few respondents show an indifferent perception of the relationship between the localness of a fashion brand and a modern or trendy approach, or even negatively caused by its perceived old-fashion look implementation (B04:163 , B14: 332).

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A few realign respondents perceive local fashion brands as trendsetters in terms of the meta fashion trends fashion sustainability and fine craftsmanship, which are recognised as long-running/ meta market fashion trends. These respondents refer to the sustainable and artisanal trendsetter approach to the local fashion brand attractiveness (B01: 122, B14: 207, 374), B13: 224-229). Additionally, a few respondents realise the impact of a modern local fashion brand approach on the attractiveness of a brand. Accordingly, B13 states the modernity and fashion coolness by recognizing the local fashion brand’s merchandising: „The modernity and advanced views are new defined. It is not only about a clean look, but a kind of retro-style. This local fashion brand merchandises with cool sailors’ kitbags, diving equipment, cool fashion hanging and retro style coat hanger. Talking about the look this style appears really modern to me physically (B13: 219).

9. PFBL- quality - consumer’s LFB attitude Almost all (high- and low-/mid educated) realign respondents state the relationship between a local fashion brand and a premium product quality in terms of valuable processing, fabric, pattern making, or perfect fit (B04: 241), (B13: 228). Hence, the relationship is conceived as a high intensity coherence. As an example, B04 even states a higher quality of local fashion brands as opposed to global fashion brands (B04: 241). The premium quality of local fashion brand as a positively influencing variable on the consumer’s local fashion brand attitude is stated by one respondent unambiguously. B01 states the high-quality standard affecting his purchase decision in favour of a local fashion brand (B01:90). He emphasizes the importance of LFB quality by prioritizing the valuable processing against the fashion design due to his purchase intention (B01:17). B13 states the positive impact of the quality of local fashion brand on his LFB-attitude, but mitigates this impact by stressing the minor public-image effect of local fashion brands on his fashion community (B13:228-249). Even if some female realign respondents emphasize the perception of a premium quality of local fashion brands, which lead to a positive basic attitude towards local fashion brands, they scrutinise the fashion design of local fashion brands (B15; B04: 189). Apparently, the female realign respondents have higher/stronger fashion design demands regarding the desire of high-fashion-group affiliation and (international) highfashion recognition than male realign respondents. The latter aspect was analysed in chapter 4.2.7.1. The complement quantitative analysis considers this relation to gain a deeper insight of this context. 10. PFBLfunctional/ staid designconsumer’s LFB attitude Almost all realign respondents recognise a more likely functional design fashion approach when it comes to local fashion brands. In this context, all respondents approve of the strong relation of the variable design in terms of both the fashion design

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or look and the corporate design approach of a local fashion offer to the consumer local fashion brand attitude (B13: 268). Additionally, the fashion design has a positive impact on the attractiveness of a local fashion brand, as stated by almost all realign respondents. Accordingly, B04 states that she is willing to purchase a local fashion brand if the fashion design is attractive and appealing to her (B04: 189). Whereas some respondents interpret the variable functional as an uncomplicated, austere, unfussy and clear fashion design as well as a positive qualitative item due to a local fashion offer (B01: 25), some other respondents assess the variable functional fashion design in terms of staid and not-modern design (B04:186-189, B15: 132). In this context, only a few female respondents associate local fashion brand design with an old-fashioned, traditional design approach. The latter impression is emphasized by their perception of a handmade character of a local fashion brand additionally, which they evaluate negatively (B04:124 201-204). 11. PFBL-original personality brand identityconsumer’s LFB attitude Some (high- and low-/mid- educated) realign respondents state that the perception of a local fashion brand relates to an original, unique personality; even conceived as a local hero, which is stated by B13 (B13:174-177). Some respondents constitute a clear positive coherence due to the perception of a strong original and unique personality and the local fashion brands’ identity. They state that local fashion brands are different and unique (B01:124, B14: 399). The respondents constitute the local fashion brand’s potential to provide precise distinctions to the consumer. Additionally, some respondents recognise the more personal, individual local brand approach, because of the perception of a close proximity and affiliation towards the local brand’s origin and brand’s genesis (B13: 174), (B13:214-219). Additionally, these respondents perceive local fashion brands as more tangible, which relates to the genuine brand’s origin ultimately contributing to their clear local brand identity and story. A few respondents mention the genuine local brand identity as a strong trigger of the local fashion brand’s purchase decision. Thus, B14 states that he purchases a local fashion brand if it has a brand personality (B14: 374) and reveals that a local fashion brand has a stronger personality than an international fashion label (B14:278). The genuine local brand identity is supposed to be illustrated by a local fashion brand marketing story. B01 states accordingly: B.: “The way I see it that the local brand gets across the high-quality standard and premium processing and local story in a genuine way. That’s why I decide to purchase a local fashion brand as opposed to a global one.” (B01: 90).

12. PFBLself-brand-connectionoriginal personality Some (high-, and low-/mid-educated) realign respondents state a personal, individual relationship towards a perceived local fashion brand, which illustrates the influence of

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a perceived local fashion brand on the respondent’s individual self-concept. Accordingly, B13 discerns his personal affection to the fashion brand Blutsgeschwister, which is perceived by him as a local fashion brand in the neighborhood. His explanation reveals the original personality of the local fashion brand (B13: 150-153). B04 states her personal affiliation towards the fashion brand Herr von Eden (B04: 153). The impact of the perceived self-brand-connection on the original personality is stated by a few respondents. While B04 unemotionally states her respect due to the courage of the local fashion designer (B04:151), B15 notices passionately that she is strongly inspired by the local fashion brand creator and IT-Girl Bonnie Strange from Berlin. (B15: 08). B13 emotionally emphasizes the personal affiliation and admiration towards the local fashion brands personality. He states accordingly: B.: “Yes sure, because I am strongly associated with this special designer person. I would come back again and again, because it is more personal and individual.” (B13: 183-187).

As a result, even though all realign respondents with high-, mid-, and low- education level state a perceived relation and affiliation to the original personality of a local fashion brand, low-/and mid- educated realign respondents stress the relevance of the original personality with significantly more emotion and enthusiasm. 13. PFBLself-brand-connectionattractiveness A few (high-, and low-/mid-educated) realign respondents state that local fashion brands are attractive due to their personal self-brand-connection towards the local fashion brand. (B04: 153-155). B15 colloquially characterises the creator of the local fashion brand The Shit – Bonnie Strange as cool in terms of excellent and attractive (B15: 08). 14. PFBLself-brand-connectiontrustfulness/ brand sincerity A few realign respondents realise a higher trustfulness and brand sincerity caused by their self-brand-connection towards a local fashion brand. B04 states that she perceives a higher local fashion brand sincerity as an example (B04:168). 15. PFBLsustainable  consumer’s LFB attitude Some (high- and low-/mid-educated) respondents state the direct impact of sustainability on the consumer local fashion brand’s attitude. They mention the evident implementation of the LFB concept due to the long-running fashion market trend of sustainability, which contributes to a clear positive attitude towards local fashion brands (B01: 93). Additionally, this impression is emphasized by the respondent’s statement of a higher price willingness due to a sustainable engagement of local fashion brand. The latter supports the direct influence of a sustainable local fashion brand perception on the consumer’s attitude (B04: 234).

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16. PFBLsustainable  social responsibility Reputation consumer’s LFB attitude Some (high-educated) realign respondents state the sustainability in terms of a social and ecological sustainability as a relevant attribute of local fashion brands. A few respondents mention the sustainable character of a local fashion brand positively affecting the social responsibility. Additionally, a few respondents state that the social, responsible character of a local fashion brand has a positive effect on its reputation as a local fashion brand. As an example, B01 notices the higher reputation of local fashion brands due to a respectful treatment of the employees and its corresponding social responsibility (B01: 108), (B04: 176). 17. PFBLtransparent/ genuine/ tangible  trustfulness & brand sincerity Social Responsibility reputationconsumer’s LFB attitude All realign respondents recognise a high level of brand sincerity and social responsibility towards a local fashion brand. Perceived attributes of sustainability, as well as transparent brand presence, genuine brand origin (B04: 178), B13: 240) and brand tangibility (B01:84), B14: 171) are related to the brand sincerity and social responsibility respectively. The sustainability of a local fashion brand affects the perceived social responsibility positively, as stated by one respondent (B14: 232). A few respondents state that the social responsibility has an impact on the local fashion brands reputation (B01:108. The local fashion brands reputation is ultimately related to the consumer local fashion brand attitude, which is directly stated by a few respondents (B14: 165-171), (B04:176). A few (high-, and low-/mid-educated) realign respondents state that a social responsible fashion brand is positively influenced by a trustful, sincere local fashion brand. As an example, B04 emphasizes her mark of confidence towards local fashion brands regarding its social responsibility (B04: 221), (B13:240-241). One respondent notices the transparent brand presence in terms of the local fashion brands production processes and its relevance for a credible reputation of local fashion brands. In this context, he substantiates his higher price willingness to buy a local fashion brand by the fact of a credible reputation attributed to a traceable, social responsible production process. B14 recognises mentioned coherences (B14:165). Almost all realign respondents recognise the genuine origin of a local fashion brand, which they refer to as the strong affiliation of a local fashion brand towards its origin. A few realign respondents state the genuine and clear origin of a local fashion brand, which they relate to the local fashion brands identity accordingly (B01: 84). A few respondents state the tangibility of local fashion brand, which is caused by its affiliation to the origin such as the region or the responsible designer. Tangibility relates to the brand’s sincerity and trustfulness (B01:84, B14:171).

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18. Social Responsibility brand identityconsumer’s LFB attitude A few respondents state that the social responsibility of local fashion brand positively relates to the brand’s identity. In particular, the trustfulness and sustainability of a local fashion brand are mentioned, which are implemented by a true local brand story. The true local brand story might illustrate the brand’s identity and its personality particularly (B01: 94). As a result of the qualitative content analysis, the respondents’ local fashion brand’s attitude is evidently attributed to six impacts with a direct influence, which are affected by the perception of several local fashion brand attributes. Main results of the qualitative content analysis are illustrated by the created model as follows: 1. Quality, which is influenced by the perception of a valuably processed, quality driven prestige, handmade pattern, local fashion brand. The perceived valuable processing and handmade characteristic were proven to have the strongest influence on the quality of a local fashion brand. 2. Attractiveness, which is influenced by the perception of valuable processing, ambivalent prestige, artisanal craftsmanship, a trendy, or modern local fashion brand, the perception of a self-local fashion brand connection and the design. The perception of an ambivalent prestige, trendy and/or modern approach, a strong selfbrand-connection to a local fashion brand and the design have the strongest impact on the attractiveness of a local fashion brand. 3. Design, in terms of the look or outer appearance of the fashion outfit and in terms of the corporate design of the local fashion brand, which is influenced by the perception of the handmade character, the LFB prestige and a functional, or staid local fashion brand. The handmade character of a local fashion brand most affects the design aspect of a local fashion brand. 4. Brand identity, in terms of all embraced attributes concerning the character of a brand, which is influenced by the perception of an original, unique, genuine and socially responsible local fashion brand. The perception of an original personality as a trump, or local hero, which is revealed by a clear local fashion brand story ultimately has a strong positive impact on the local brand identity and on the respondents’ local fashion brands attitude. 5. Sustainability, in terms of a brand applying corporate social responsibility. The direct influence of a perceived sustainable local fashion brand on the respondents’ LFB attitude is explored by the high-educated realign respondents. 6. Reputation, which is influenced by the self-brand-connection towards a local fashion brand and the perception of a trustful, sincere and sustainable social responsibility. According to the fact that the positive attitude group of the “LFB-Realigns” suits the deeper investigation of the research question most, all relevant statements and used

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synonyms of the realign respondents regarding each presented LFB attitude attribute are considered by the qualitative analysis. Thus, gained insights based on statements and terms of respondents are integrated as a data input to Social Media Model regarding the supplement quantitative research and Social Media Analysis respectively, which is implemented in chapter 4.3. Accordingly, statements of the realign-respondents deal with:  Positive mentions about local fashion brands, which might lead to a recommendation of the local fashion brand.  Negative mentions about local fashion brands, which might prevent a local fashion brand recommendation. Mentioned local fashion brand attributes are a result and insight of the qualitative research analysis, which is based on the characteristics of local fashion brands according to the realign respondents. An overview of discovered relevant respondents’ terms and statements of realign respondents due to an impact on the local fashion brand attitude is presented in the appendix 8. 4.2.8

Perception Bias towards Local Fashion Brands

4.2.8.1 Bias due to Perceived Fashion Brand Signals and Symbols The analysis of the bias due to perceived local fashion brand signals and cognitions about a local fashion brand draws on the impact of perceived brand name, brand logo and brand campaigns. This characteristic of a local fashion brand might reveal its origin. The handling of those categories is already mentioned in chapter 4.2.1. and refers to the supplement categories. The perception of the brand’s name and logo are recognised by most of the interviewees as key signals determining the localness of a fashion brand. The use of specific visible elements, which are affiliated with the origin traditionally, are recognised by almost all respondents. As an example, the illustration of the Hamburg crest within the brand logo of the fashion brand derbe is recognised by almost all respondents as a strong local affiliation to the origin. However, the brand name and brand logo of a fashion brand can prompt respondents’ perception bias. As an example, even though B14 does not conceive (in terms of understand) a distinct fashion brand as a regional brand, he perceives its brand logo as a regional one. (B14: 215 - 217). Another example of perception bias refers to the statement of B11. She associates the English wording of the brand name with a fashion brand which is supposed to be very small caused by alleged lower quantities. In fact, Armed Angels is a sustainable fashion brand originated in Cologne. It designs a variety of eco-friendly apparel, which they distribute to six countries internationally. B11 states:

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B.: “Armed Angels (…) I have no idea. I would allocate it as a local brand like Band of Rascals too. I: What’s the reason why, even though the brand name has an English wording? B: Yes, because I think that it might have low quantities. So, I mean companies with a lower brand awareness choose this kind of brand name and brand logo.” (Mid Education Level\B11: 63-65).

Additionally, the perception of the brand phonetic of a fashion brand leads to perception bias. Even though some interviewees are not familiar with presented and illustrated brand logos, they give an estimation of the level of localness. That’s why they are affected by the use of a signature logo and its phonetic sound. This estimation is grounded on the fact that these interviewees are convinced they would know the brand if it pursues an international strategy and fashion approach. they perceive these brands as local by implication. As an example, B03 states about the signature fashion label Julia Starp: B: „Julia Starp? I don´t know this brand. It sounds German, so it has to be local then.” (High Education Level\B03: 100 - 100).

4.2.8.2 Bias due to Different Cognitions about a Local Fashion Brand One aspect of perception bias due to local fashion brands draws on the respondents’ cognition and brand knowledge concerning the extent of brands coverage and distribution strategy, which stands in contrast to an opposed knowledge about the level of the affiliation towards the brand’s origin. A fashion brand’s distribution and retail strategy is revealed by respondents’ statement about their perceived reach and coverage of the brand, whether it pursues a rather local, regional, national, international, or global brand approach. As an example, some respondent rates the fashion brand Trigema as a local fashion brand, even though they know about the international distribution and reach of the company. Simultaneously, they recognise a strong affiliation towards its origin, which is primarily revealed by the profound knowledge of the ambivalent entrepreneurial personality of the managing director Wolfgang Rupp and the brand’s genesis in the south of Germany. Subsequently, these respondents feel a cognitive dissonance, which is illustrated by an uneasy/ doubtful feeling and arguing about their estimation. As an example, B03 considers whether the fashion brand Trigema is rather international than local. B.: „Trigema, I know this brand. I would estimate it is an international fashion brand. But, it is from Munich, isn’t it? (…). This special guy, who build up the company, right? However, I would think it is an international brand, but they are strongly affiliated with Germany. Probably it is local then. Well, I know it from there. It is an intermediate decision.” (B03: 102-107).

Almost high-educated respondents become aware of the fact that they have partly contradictory statements and conflicting opinions, which illustrates the cognitive bias. As an example, B05 states his knowledge and experience of the international market approach of the German fashion company Wellensteyn due to the presented brand

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logo. Simultaneously, he scrutinises his own estimation by his estimation of a strong affiliation of the brand to its origin. B05 states that ´Wellensteyn´ is a local fashion brand, even though he knows that Wellensteyn is an international big player (High Education Level\B05: 73). As remarked in chapter 4.2.4, high-educated respondents trust their brand evaluation due to their brand knowledge and brand experience in terms of cognitive facts in the first place, unless they feel a strong affiliation towards the origin. This therefore shows that a few interviewees are much more affected by the affinity and affiliation of the interviewee to the origin of the brand, than due to a brand’s bigger size and brands international coverage respectively. Another aspect of perception bias respondents’ cognition and brand production of origin and extent of respectively, which stands in contrast affiliation towards the origin.

due to local fashion brands draws on the knowledge concerning the fashion brand’s brand’s coverage and distribution strategy to an opposed cognition about the level of the

Accordingly, some statements of the respondents show the difficulty of a clear and distinct definition of a local fashion brand. As an example, given the estimation of a local fashion brand, the local fashion brand’s characteristic produced-in-Germany on the one hand and international coverage on the other hand, gives rise to an inner conflict. From a local point of view, a local fashion brand might be determined by a manufactured fashion product within Germany. In reference to this, the same fashion product might have international or even global coverage. The knowledge of this information leads to an inner conflict of defining a local fashion brand. Particularly respondents with a low and mid education level (low involvement is no issue because B16 (low involve)) hesitate to make a clear statement (Mid Education Level\B08: 72 93). Further aspects of perception bias results due to corporate brand design aspects:  The visual cognition of special elements regarding the fashion brand logo. Some respondents recognise symbols, which are highly affiliated with the region as an indication for a local fashion brand, even though it is in fact an international fashion brand. The black rose is a corporate design element of the fashion brand Seidensticker. Even though Seidensticker is distributed in 86 countries, the symbol of the black rose is perceived as an indication for a local fashion brand. (B14: 229). Another example is attributed to the perception of the fashion brand Wellensteyn. A few respondents perceive Wellensteyn as a Swiss fashion brand, even though it is originated in the North of Germany. The brand logo implements corporate identity elements of the Swiss flag.

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 The pronunciation and phonetic sound of the fashion brand’s name. Some respondents perceive an English pronounced fashion brand rather as a local fashion label than an international fashion brand. Almost all respondents perceive the fashion brand Band-of-Rascals as a local fashion brand because it appears small to them.  The perception of the designer’s signature label. Some respondents perceive the international recognised fashion label Anna Fuchs as a local fashion label. Even though the fashion label Eduard Dressler distributes its menswear to 19 countries, it is perceived as local fashion label due to the signature labelling of its founder.  The perception of the brand name suffix, representing the name of a region or a city. Some respondents perceive the fashion brand Maerz München as a local fashion brand, even though it is accessible internationally and the sweater collection is knitted in European countries. Given the analysis of local fashion brands’ attributes and their coherences (chapter 4.2.7.2) a few respondents mention contradictory estimations and opinions. According to the realigns positive attitude group it can be stated that almost all realign respondents have a clear positive basic and fundamental attitude towards local fashion brands. A few respondents of the realign-group argue and scrutinise about the local fashion brand design characteristic, which might create cognitive bias. Additionally, these respondents are very emotional affected in a positive sense by local fashion brands. As an example, even though B15 mentions that she is “not really into local fashion brands”, caused by her focus on international fashion design, she admires the coolness of a local designer fashion brand (Realign\Mid Education Level\ B15: 8). The statements of B04, who emphasizes her positive attitude towards local fashion brands unambiguously (B04: 202). While, subsequently, she “favours and appreciates everything talking about local fashion brands in general, except the design.” (Realign\ High-Education Level \B04: 331). The latter example illustrates that some respondents have double-meaning cognitions about local fashion brands, which might result in cognitive dissonance. A reason for this might be the prejudice of some respondents against the German fashion design culture. Respondents state their prejudice against German fashion design in terms of conservative, functional, down-to-earth, pragmatic, plain and reliable. Even though almost all respondents evaluate German fashion design in a similar expression, those expressions are used in different, ambivalent senses. A few respondents (B01, B09, B11) conceive these expressions positively in terms of functional style and high quality, reliable, pure, valuable, certainty in quality. However, a few respondents (B04, B15) conceive these expressions negatively in terms of functional style and not modern, staid, not avant-garde, not courageous and well-behaved. Thus, the perception of German fashion design culture reveals an impact on the perceived brand localness.

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Accordingly, the characteristic of hand-made, or handcrafted of a local fashion brand has a cognitive double-meaning perception. On the one hand the handcrafted character of a local brand is perceived positively due to the quality of a fashion product; on the other hand, the handcrafted character is perceived negatively, because it is assessed opposed to a trendy fashion design approach of a local fashion brand. Thus, cognitive dissonance can be identified in few realign respondents, who perceive local fashion brands with a staid design character, even though they have a positive attitude towards local fashion brands due to their valuable quality in particular. Female respondents emphasize the latter aspect. As a result, cognitive bias due to the perception of a local fashion brand reveals different opinions about the conception of a local fashion brand. Perception bias towards local fashion brands is more likely attributed to the respondent’s knowledge about the fashion market and brands. Some respondents with a higher education level state different cognition regarding their brand knowledge and brand experience with the fashion brand predominately (High Education Level\B05: 73 – 73). Respondents with a lower education level state different cognition regarding their prejudice towards the fashion brand, which is prompted by their prejudice against German fashion design in general (B13). This effect can be observed by respondents with a lower fashion involvement as well. As an example, one respondent shows prejudice toward the not cheerful German fashion design, which results in her negative attitude towards local fashion brands (Low-education level/ B17). The realign respondents’ perception bias is discovered due to the different understanding of an artisanal craftsmanship and handmade character of a local fashion brand, which creates both a positive impact on the perceived quality and a negative impact on the perceived fashion design of a local fashion brand. The perception bias of this aspect might be attributed differently to male as opposed to female fashion purchase intention preferences. This research issue draws on the insights of the analysis of purchase motivations in chapter 4.2.6. This context will be reviewed in the supplement quantitative analysis. 4.2.9

Interim Results of Qualitative Data Analysis

Based on the leading research objective, which is conceived as the exploration of consumers’ fashion brand perception to discover guiding principles and new theory of perceived fashion brand localness, this chapter briefly shows an interim result due to derived research questions. Research questions of this investigation are differentiated on the foundation of the key research question. Given the research area of consumer behaviour, the key research question scrutinises the impact of perceived brand localness on the consumers’ association and consumers’ attitude towards local fashion brands.

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According to the qualitative analysis the table shows interim results of the research questions. The following table 51 presents interim results regarding the first research objective and derived research questions: 1.

Research objective due to the associations and characteristic of PFBL Discovery of the characteristic features of a local fashion brand considering the perception of the high-/mid-/low- educated consumer.

1

Research Question and Interim Results due to Associations and characteristics of PFBL

1.1

What brand associations and characteristics are relevant attributions due to consumers’ perception of a local fashion brand? a. Exploration of eight association hubs draws on regional identity, valuable quality, artisanal craftsmanship, smallness due to a local fashion brand, sustainability, handmade, tangible, local hero. (see chapter 4.2.3). b. Given 32 discovered and analysed characteristics of local fashion brands, the following direct characteristics are discovered and analysed due to their relevance of positive basic attitude towards local fashion brands. (see chapter 4.2.7). 1. Affiliation to LFB origin 2. Lower level of coverage 3. High quality in terms of a valuable processing, better fabric, better fit 4. Sustainability in terms of social and ecological sustainable brand approach. 5. Small in terms of small quantities, specific market segment (niche) and in terms of accurate, careful handmade creation 6. German, which provides an ambivalent evaluation of a local fashion brand. Positive association in terms of a valuable processed fashion product and negative association in terms of a not modern but staid and functional fashion design 7. Clear identification in terms of higher familiarity, low distribution and reference to the origin. The latter is prompted by brand name, brand logo and brand phonetic, which illustrates the regional identity and creator’s personality 8. No modern fashion design approach in terms of being less experimental, or trendy, but partly functional. This respondents’ perception refers to the missing international fashion design character and less changeable character of a local fashion brand. Whereby the perception of a functional fashion design is attributed to the prejudice due to the heritage of German fashion design on the one hand and due to the functional-good quality image of German brands in general. The latter refers to the Country-of-Origin effect. 9. Clear local fashion brand identity in terms of recognised strong identity attributes such as fine craftsmanship and guarantee of premium workmanship, which is perceived in combination with authenticity of the local fashion brand story and its trustfulness. 10. Artisanal craftsmanship in terms of the appreciation of a careful, handmade, traditional and valuable processed local fashion product. 11. Tangible, transparent and credible in terms of a high trustworthiness due to an ethical production process and the responsibility of the creator behind it. 12. Higher familiarity in the specific region in terms of the affiliation to his own region. 13. Clear, strong local fashion brand personality in terms of the perceived clear communication of the local fashion brand. Additionally, the respondents’ close proximity to the local fashion brand and its origin supports the clear communication. The origin is conceived as the region or the creator. The creator of the brand is identified as the fashion designer and/or the managing entrepreneur of the brand.

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14. Value for money and cost-benefit-ratio in terms of the perception of a higher price and corresponding valuable processing. On the other hand, the good cost-benefitration is perceived by a lower price of a local fashion brand due to its lower effort logistically. This aspect is perceived by the positive attitude group of the traditional guardians in the first place. 15. Personal, individual in terms of a likeable, specific local fashion offer. 16. Innovative and trendy in terms of the perception of local fashion brands as a trend indicator due to the macro trends of craftsmanship and sustainability. 17. Attention to detail and different rarity 1.2

Which of relevant local fashion brand characteristics determine a real LFB in a narrow sense empirically due to the German fashion market?  Top two relevant characteristics determining local fashion brands referring to the affiliation towards the local fashion brands origin and to the level of coverage of a local fashion brand. Accordingly, the definition of local fashion brand in a narrow sense due to this investigation reads as follows: A local fashion brand is defined by a strong affiliation towards the brand’s origin, which is attributed to its originated region or its creator, designer and by a low level of the fashion brands coverage, which is attributed to a regional or selective distribution of the fashion collection. “Based on a strong affiliation towards its origin and a low level of the brand’s coverage, a local fashion brand benefits the consumer through handmade craftsmanship and valuable processing (functional value) on the one hand. On the other hand, a LFB benefits the consumer through an original, genuine brand personality and identity and a strong reputation illustrated by a sustainable, responsible personality (symbolic value).” Benefits from design and attractiveness are ambivalent. (see analysis chapter 4.2.4)  Given the respondents’ understanding of a local fashion brand, eight local fashion brands are evaluated in a narrow sense. These local fashion brands are allocated to the true local fashion brand segment in a narrow sense A1 due to stated similarity factors. Thus, results as follows: Blutsgeschwister, Derbe, Herr von Eden, Lala Berlin, Liebeskind Berlin, Maerz München, Seidensticker. The Shit Shop – Bonnie Strange. (see analysis chapter 4.2.4)  Further definition of a local fashion brand in a broader sense concerns the perception of a regional designer label segment A2, a regional and national extending fashion label segment A3, and German culture driven local fashion label segment A4 in the light of the variables afflation towards the origin and level of coverage of a local fashion brand. (see analysis chapter 4.2.4)

1.3

What categorical relationship between relevant local fashion brand associations and characteristics can be identified? According to the analysis of chapter 4.2.3 and 4.2.4, the following categorical relationships can be stated:  Perception of regional identity relates to  the local cultural tradition  strong local personality  local production  Perception of artisanal craftsmanship relates to the premium quality of a LFB  Perception of premium quality relates to valuable processing  Perception of smallness relates to fine, careful, accurate products  Perception (prompted by smallness) of low quantities/ low volume production relates to low coverage  Perception of a small stock-keeping-unit collection relates to low coverage  Perception (prompted by smallness) of regional distribution and coverage relates to lower cost and good cost-benefit ratio.

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 Perception of social and ecological sustainability relates to trustworthiness and responsibility  Perception of handmade character relates to  staid design  artisanal craftsmanship  Perception of tangibility relates to a certainty of (social) responsibility  Perception of affiliation to the origin relates to:  Regional identity  Local production  Local personality in terms of an encouraged, appreciated, responsible creator of the brand.

Table 55: Interim Results to Research Question One due to Qualitative Analysis The following table 56 presents interim results regarding second research objective and derived research questions: 2

Research objective due to the independent variables and Influence factors of PFBL Discovering the strongest influence factors of local fashion brands, which have a strong impact on a positive consumers’ attitude towards LFB.

2

Research questions concerning independent variables and Influence factors of PFBL

2.1 Which variables lead to a positive attitude towards LFB? According to the analysis chapter 4.2.7, the following variables result in a direct impact on the consumer’s local fashion brand’s attitude. 1. Quality, which is influenced by the perception of a valuable processed, quality driven prestige, handmade, functional, or staid LFB. 2. Attractiveness, which is influenced by the perception of valuable processing, artisanal craftsmanship and a trendy, or modern LFB. 3. Design, in terms of the look and outer appearance of a local fashion brand, which is influenced by the perception of handmade pattern, the LFB prestige and a functional, or staid LFB. 4. Brand identity, in terms of all embraced attributes concerning the character of a brand, which is influenced by the perception of an original, unique personality, genuine and social responsible LFB. 5. Sustainability, in terms of a brand representing corporate social responsibility. 6. Reputation, which is influenced by the perception of a trustful, sincere and sustainable social responsibility. 2.2 Which relations/ coherences of independent variables have a relevant impact on a consumer’s brand attitude? According to the analysis in chapter 4.2.7, the following coherences of independent variables result in a relevant indirect impact on the consumer’s local fashion brand attitude. 1. PFBLprestige  quality LFB attitude 2. PFBLprestigeattractiveness LFB attitude 3. PFBLprestigedesign LFB attitude 4. PFBLartisanal craftsmanshipprestige 5. PFBLartisanal craftsmanshipvaluable processing/ handmade pattern quality LFB attitude 6. PFBLartisanal craftsmanship handmade patterndesign LFB attitude

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7. PFBLartisanal craftsmanship  attractiveness  LFB attitude 8. PFBLtrendy/ modern  attractiveness LFB attitude 9. PFBL quality  LFB attitude 10. PFBLfunctional/ staid design LFB attitude 11. PFBLoriginal personality brand identity LFB attitude 12. PFBLself-brand-connectionoriginal personality 13. PFBLself-brand-connectionattractiveness LFB attitude 14. PFBLself-brand-connectiontrustfulness/ brand sincerity 15. PFBLsustainable LFB attitude 16. PFBLsustainable social responsibility  reputation  LFB attitude 17. PFBLtransparent/ genuine/ tangible  trustfulness/ brand sincerity social responsibility reputation LFB attitude 18. Social responsibility brand identity LFB attitude

Table 56: Interim Results to Research Question Two due to Qualitative Analysis Table 57 presents interim results regarding the third research objective and derived research questions: 3

Research objective due to the typology of PFBL Discovering a typology of Perceived-Fashion-Brand-Localness-consumers with respect to homogenous attitude”

3

Research question concerning the typology of PFBL

3.1

Which social groups due to the principles of the sinus milieus have a positive attitude towards local fashion brands? According to the analysis in Chapter 4.2 both variables the education level and the consumers value orientation influence his LFB perception; however, the influence of the respondents’ value orientation has a more distinct effect on the consumer’s local fashion brands perception than the education level. Accordingly, the following three groups are discovered with a positive basic attitude. A) Group of respondents characterised by a traditional value orientation and a low-/mid education level, which are named the traditional guardians. B) The group of respondents characterised by a modern value orientation and a high education level, which are named the modern intellectuals. C) The group of respondents characterised by a realigned value orientation and a high-/ mid-/low education level, which are named the realigns.

3.2

What is the LFB purchase motivation of these groups? According to the analysis in chapter 4.2.6, respondents’ purchase motivation is explored. Given the positive attitude towards local fashion brands, consumer purchase motivation is an evident indicator when it comes to his purchase intention and final decision. The analysis results the following purchase motivations due to the positive attitude groups A, B and C. A. The Traditional Guardians The traditional guardians have a positive attitude towards local fashion brands, because they notice the premium processing and craftsmanship of local fashion brands. Additionally, they notice good value for money and cost-benefit ratio of local fashion brands. Even though some respondents of this group appreciate the attention for handcrafted product details, their purchase motivation is based on the fact that they want to guard the own region (symbolic benefit) by supporting and purchasing local fashion brands predominately. This is attributed to the statements of respondents B07, B08, B12

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(traditional value orientation/ low- and mid- education level). Further, they want to reduce the risk of left-behind the own region. The Traditional Guardians have a passive LFB purchase intention. B. The Modern Intellectuals The modern intellectuals have a positive attitude towards local fashion brands, because they recognise the premium quality, the fine, careful and accurate craftsmanship and social responsibility as trend indicator as well as opposed to the global uniform me-too fashion offer. They knowledge about the local (functional) speciality due to local fashion brands. Their positive attitude is based on this functional benefit predominately. Their purchase motivation is based on the fact that they intend to be above others using the knowledge of the special field of local fashion brands and act superior by supporting and purchasing local fashion brands. Secondly, their purchase intention towards local fashion brands results from their intention to reduce the risk of the decrease of fashion variety fighting against the “global play”. The Modern Intellectuals have a passive LFB purchase intention. C. The Realigns The realigns have a positive attitude towards local fashion brands, because they appreciate the premium quality and fine craftsmanship of local fashion brands as well as the local fashion brand’s performance and the unique, self-determined, courageous personality/ identity of the local fashion brand or its creator. They have an active purchase intention towards local fashion brands, which draws on two effects. The first effect concerns the perceived symbolic value of a local fashion brand, which deals with the hedonic benefit in terms of Self-Fulfilment and strong cognitive and/ or affective stimulation. This effect deals with two aspects. First, their perceived affiliation and appreciation towards the explored distinctive personality of the local fashion brand and/or its creator. In this context low-, mid educated realign respondents illustrate the local fashion brand as “local hero”. This strong symbolic benefit predominantly refers to the low-, and mid educated realign respondents. Secondly, they perceive local fashion brands as a fashion concept, which accomplishes the implementation of the strong common current fashion market trends CSR and fine craftsmanship. This perception refers to all education level of realign respondents. The perceived implementation of these two strong fashion market trends matches their lifestyle-concept unambiguously. Both aspects suit the life-style of the realigned value respondents in particular. The second effect concerns the perceived functional value of a local fashion brand, which deals with the functional-utilitarian benefit in terms of the technical/ functional characteristics of LFB and subsequent (social, global) risk reduction by LFB trustworthiness. Local fashion brands are perceived by the realigns reducing their purchase complexity equating/ associating a local fashion brand with a sustainable, social responsible and premium processed fashion brand on a guaranteed standard. This strong functional benefit predominantly refers to the high educated realign respondents. Given this, the local fashion brand concept corresponds/ suits their life-style concept, which is dominated by and draws on value-key-indicators such as performance, pragmatism, multi-optionality, new synthesis, and change (realignment). In particular, new synthesis and change is associated with the challenge to achieve a consensus about the demand of ´fast fashion´ on the one hand and (common fashion market trends) CSR and careful, accurate craftsmanship on the other hand. The positive basic attitude group of the Realigns is recognised as having the strongest purchase motivation. They have an active purchase intention.

Table 57: Interim Results to Research Question Three due to Qualitative Analysis The following table 58 presents interim results regarding the fourth research objective and derived research questions:

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4

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Research objective concerning local fashion brand strategies Discover and differentiate successful local fashion brand strategies and implementations with respect to different fashion segments.

4

Research questions concerning local fashion brand strategies

4.1

Besides the impression of coverage and origin, what kind of marketing signals, symbols, corporate designs influence consumer’s LFB-perception? According to the analysis in chapter 4.2.3 and 4.2.7.1, the following results can be stated:  Brand logo in terms of the corporate brand signet such as the fashion brands logo of Derbe and Blutsgeschwister.  Brand name in terms of the written visualized name of the brand such as the fashion brand Liebeskind Berlin or of the creator and fashion designer. The latter is defined and illustrated as a signature label such as the fashion brand Jil Sander.  Brand name in terms of the pronunciation and the phonetic sound of the local fashion brand  Brand story in terms of the perceived corporate brands behaviour and communication, which is promoted by the store architecture, language, graphic design or even the behaviour of the fashion creator himself such as the local fashion brand Michalsky. All mentioned aspects are able to prompt the respondent’s individual brand experience such as the affiliation to the origin, which are stuck in the respondent’s memory. Thus, the fashion and creator’s brand name Bogner prompts the respondent’s affiliation to the German city Munich.

4.2

Which local-brand-strategy is most effective/ successful? Unambiguously, the answers to the question regarding an effective local fashion brand strategy are based on the analysis of distinguished positive local fashion brand attitude groups. Thus, the following three strategies and explanations are mentioned. The A, B, C strategy corresponds to the explored positive-local-fashion-group attitude groups. A. Strengthen the affiliation to region’s economic stability As an explanation, the traditional guardians have a positive attitude towards local fashion brands, because they notice the premium processing and craftsmanship of local fashion brands. Additionally, they notice a good value for money and cost-benefit ratio of local fashion brands. Even though some respondents of this group appreciate the attention for handcrafted product details, their purchase intention is based on the fact that they want to guard their own region (against the global) by predominately supporting and purchasing local/ regional fashion brands. This is attributed to the statements of respondents B07, B08, B12 (traditional value orientation/ low- and mideducation level). Further, they want to reduce the risk of left-behind the own region. B. Strengthen the affiliation to origin specialty As an explanation, the modern Intellectuals have a positive attitude towards local fashion brands, because they recognise the premium quality and careful craftsmanship and they know about the local speciality of local fashion brands. Their purchase intention is based on this functional benefit. Further the purchase intention is based on the fact that they intend to be above others using the knowledge of the special field of local fashion brands and act superior by supporting and purchasing local fashion brands. On the other hand, their purchase intention towards local fashion brands results from their intention to reduce the risk of the decrease of fashion variety. C. Strengthen the affiliation to origin’s sustainability, performance and unique personality As an explanation, the Realigns have a positive attitude towards local fashion brands, because they appreciate the premium quality, strong performance of local fashion brands and the designer’s performance and personality. They have a stronger purchase intention toward local fashion brands, because they perceive local fashion

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brands as a fashion concept, which accomplishes the implementation of the strong common current fashion market trends CSR and fine craftsmanship. The perceived implementation of these two strong fashion market trends matches their life-styleconcept unambiguously. Secondly, the strong purchase intention refers to the perceived affiliation and appreciation towards the explored distinctive personality of the local fashion brand and/or its creator. Further, local fashion brands are perceived by the realigns reducing their purchase complexity equating/ associating a local fashion brand with a sustainable, social responsible and premium processed fashion brand on a guaranteed standard. Given this, the local fashion brand concept suits their life-style concept, which is dominated by and draw on value-key-indicators such as performance, pragmatism, multioptionality, new synthesis, and change (realignment). In particular, new synthesis and change is associated with the challenge to achieve a consensus about the demand of ´fast fashion´ on the one hand and (common fashion market trends) CSR and accurate craftsmanship on the other hand. The question for a differentiation of mentioned strategies due to different fashion segments might be explored by the supplement quantitative analysis.

Table 58: Interim Results to Research Question Four due to Qualitative Analysis Table 59 presents interim results of the fifth research objective and derived research questions: 5

Research objective concerning the local fashion brand perception bias Discovering the perception bias of fashion consumers concerning local fashion brand perception.

5

Research question concerning the local fashion brand perception bias

5.1

Do brand names/ brand coverage level/ brand origin signs affect the real local fashion brand in terms of perception bias? The following tangible aspects of a fashion brands performance creates perception bias:  Perception of international retail stores and international distribution strategy of the brand due to the level of the brand’s coverage such as the fashion brand Wellensteyn.  Perception of the originated creator, designer and entrepreneur of the fashion brand such as Willy Bogner or Wolfgang Joop, who are strongly affiliated with the originated region.  The visual cognition of special elements regarding the fashion brand logo, which draws on a cultural identity of a distinct region such as the fashion brand Wellensteyn.  The perception of the pronunciation and phonetic sound of the fashion brand’s name.  The perception of the designers’ signature label such as Anna Fuchs.  The perception of the brand name suffix such as Maerz München, or Liebeskind ‘Berlin.

5.2

Does ´cognitive dissonance´ influences the local brand perception? Cognitive dissonance draws on several cognitions of a person about a specific topic, which partly interfere. The perception of a local fashion brand reveals different cognitions in terms of opinions, prejudices and even attitude of a few respondents due to their estimation about a local fashion brand. The exploration of respondents’ cognitive dissonance provides insight into confounding factors concerning the perception of local fashion brands. The analysis results in cognitive dissonance due to:

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 a positive basic local fashion brand attitude, which is influenced by a positive valuable quality of a local fashion brand. This stands in contrast to the prejudice of a not modern and staid local fashion brand design. The dissonant perception refers to a few female realign respondents.  a positive basic local fashion brand attitude, which is influenced by a modern and trendy perception of a local fashion brand. This stands in contrast to the cognition of an uncool public-image of a local fashion brand. The dissonant perception refers to a male realign respondent. Dissonant cognitions are attributed to the respondents’ preconditions such as their value orientation, education level, involvement, or cultural background. Results of the analysis of dissonant cognitions provide indications for the final explanation theory of a local fashion brand’s perception. Thus, the respondents insight that he states an unambiguous positive local fashion brand attitude, however does not purchase a local fashion brand very often, leads to an inconsistent feeling of the respondent. To resolve this unpleasant feeling, he states alleged negative attributes about a local fashion brand (“staid design”) to justify his purchase behaviour. Another explanation theory regarding to this behaviour could be that particularly female fashion consumers appreciate the local fashion brand offer, however the need for recognition due to the (social-media) fashion community in terms of an international approved fashion design aesthetic appears much stronger. Additionally, male realign fashion consumers experience a much stronger need for recognition within their fashion community in terms of an international approved brand. Gained insights are considered for the subsequent quantitative analysis to examine whether more female realigns evaluate local fashion brands as not modern than male realigns do, or even whether a female realign fashion consumer might estimate local fashion brands rather negatively as opposed to male realign fashion consumer.

Table 59: Interim Results to Research Question Five due to Qualitative Analysis In light of the sequential explorative mixed-method research approach of this investigation, it is important to mention that illustrated results of the qualitative analysis has an impact on the research method design of the subsequent quantitative analysis. Thus, insights which have a relevant impact on the database and reference frame of the quantitative analysis must be considered. Accordingly, summarised just relevant insights are constituted in chapter 3.3.4.1, Research Approach of Social Media Analytics. 4.3 Insights of Quantitative Data Analysis 4.3.1

Insights due to Refined Research Question of Quantitative Analysis

4.3.1.1 Supplement Research Questions of Social Media Analysis Based on the sequential mixed-method research design of this investigation, results of the qualitative data analysis create further and more specific research questions. These specific research questions serve to attain a deeper understanding of the originated phenomenon and reveal the explorative character of the mixed-method research design of this investigation. Given the insights of the qualitative research analysis, the following redefined supplement research questions focus on the upcoming quantitative analysis:

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1. Does the quantitative analysis prove and present the qualitative result of a positive attitude of the realign fashion consumer towards local fashion brands? Is there a relation/ correlation between the variable ´gender´ and the variable ´sentiment toward local fashion brands´ due to the perception of local fashion brands? Furthermore, the question arises if female realign respondents have a more negative opinion about local fashion brands than male respondents. 2. Are local fashion brands only supported by a higher purchase intention of realign fashion consumers (high fashion involvement) by perceiving local fashion brands with an apparent likely higher quality? Do realign fashion consumers advocate local fashion brands by recommending them to their friends? 3. Are realign fashion consumers willing to pay a price premium for a local fashion brand? Is the characteristic of sustainability and/or personality of a local fashion brand, as discovered by the qualitative analysis, a possible reason for a likely price premium purchase intention? 4. Do realign fashion consumer have a higher affiliation towards local fashion brands in the menswear, womenswear, or fashion specialist segment of local fashion brands due to the perception of higher quality? 4.3.1.2 Preconditions of Quantitative Social Media Analysis Given the redefined research question, the following preconditions are additionally considered to ensure, and document process validity of the sequential mixed-method design based on the quality criteria of the study (chapter 3.3.3.1): a) Realign fashion consumers with high-/mid-/low- education levels are the basis for the quantitative investigation. The qualitative main investigation documents that realign respondents increasingly use social-media-applications as opposed to modern or traditional respondents. b) The high fashion involvement characteristic of a realign fashion consumer produces a higher interest at an early stage of trend communication/indication. Subsequently, realign respondents likely react and communicate with regard to a fall/winter 2017 fashion collection in January until March 2017 by focussing on the newest fashion trends during fashion fairs in January 2017. This can be emphasized by the evaluation of the temporal allocation of social-media attendance frequency. The following figure shows the highest social-media-interest considering local fashion brands in January 2017, which emphasizes the high-fashion involvement of the realign group.

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Figure 33: Share of Voice Trend due to LFB Mentions January – March 2017 (with reference to IBM Watson Analytics for Social Media)

The social media statements can be allocated to the fashion fairs in Berlin, which take place from 17th until 19th January 2017 in Berlin. Figure 33 presents the share of voice trend considering the number of mentions of local fashion brands from the 1st of January 2017 until the 31st of March 2017; 41% (1.111) of all mentions (2.710) take place in January. The highest peak (102 mentions) on the 19th of January characterizes social media reactions with respect to the aforementioned fashion fairs of a fall/ winter 2017/18fashion season. Berlin’s international fashion fairs take place from the 17th to 19th of January regarding the fall/winter 2017/18 fashion season. It attests to the high fashion involvement of the chosen fashion realigns sample.

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Figure 34: Share of Voice Trend due to LFB Mentions 01st – 31st January 2017 (with reference to IBM Watson Analytics for Social Media)

All social media channels are used regularly by realign high fashion respondents, but Twitter, Facebook (B04), fashion blogs (B15) and reviews (B14) are among the most frequently used platforms. Figure 35 shows an example of the high fashion involvement by presenting a fashion blog post written by the realign social media user Alexa on the fashion-blog Journelles. It documents the reference to the fall/winter 2017/ 18 Premium fashion fair in Berlin. Additionally, it presents a positive sentiment of the local fashion brand Lala Berlin.

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Figure 35: Positive Statement Local Fashion Brand at Fashion-Blog Journelles (with reference to IBM Watson Analytics for Social Media)

It is important to mention that this example proves the process validity of the sequential mixed method design of this investigation. Additionally, it reinforces the closeness of the quantitative analysis towards its qualitative raw data based on the WATSON Social Media Analysis tool. 4.3.1.3 Analysis and Insights of Realign Consumers’ Frequency Distribution of Gender and Sentiments At this stage of the investigation, it is important to recall that the application of social media analytics and text mining was chosen as a supplementary method within the sequential mixed-method design to produce aimed, additional measurable outcomes regarding the research objective and main research question and its previous, primarily main qualitative analysis and insights. Additionally, the supplement quantitative analysis is applied to emphasize or scrutinise the explanation approaches and theories on a meta level. The first redefined research question is divided into two parts. Firstly, based on the insights of the qualitative investigation, the redefined research question arises (chapter 3.3.4.2) if the quantitative analysis proves and presents the qualitative result of a generally positive attitude of the realign fashion consumer towards local fashion brands. Secondly, it is evaluated whether a relationship exists between the gender of a realign fashion consumer and his/her sentiment towards local

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fashion brands. Subsequently, it is analysed if female realign fashion consumers perceive local fashion brands more negatively than that of male realign fashion consumers. With regard to the first statement, local fashion brands are perceived with positive sentiments, as constituted by the realised sentiment analysis. The following figure illustrates these results.

Figure 36: Sentiment Analysis due to the Topic Local Fashion Brand Perception (with reference to IBM Watson Analytics for Social Media)

Figure presents 2.710 social media mentions in terms of positive, negative, neutral, and ambivalent sentiments of local fashion brands. Almost half of the 2.710 stated mentions (1.349 mentions/ 49,7%) are characterized by a positive sentiment. Only 165 mentions (6,1%) are recognised with a negative sentiment considering local fashion brands. 1.092 (40,3%) are attributed to neutral, and 104 (3,8%) mentions are characterised by an ambivalent sentiment. Thus, this result proves that the positive sentiments of the realigns-group towards local fashion brands due to the qualitative investigation, as stated in chapter 4.2.5. A positive sentiment and attitude towards local fashion brands are generally recognised. The second part of the research question distinguishes between male and female mentions in terms of all negative sentiment mentions. 165 negative mentions are allocated to 18 male mentions, 45 female mentions, and 102 unassigned mentions. Based on these 165 negative mentions, female realign fashion consumers might state their opinions of local fashion brands more negatively than male realign fashion consumers. Figure 37 presents an indication that 45 negative female mentions out of 165 (27,3 %) in total have a negative perception of local fashion brands in contrast to

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18 of 165 male users (10,9 %). Additionally, only 22,3% positive female mentions are shown.

Figure 37: Sentiment Analysis due to Local Fashion Brand Negative Mentions (with reference to IBM Watson Analytics for Social Media)

Consequently, female realign fashion consumers might perceive local fashion brands more negatively than male realign fashion consumers. This result can be substantiated under the condition that the unassigned mentions (68,1%) are not considered. Based on this understanding, the expected frequency of negative female mentions constitutes 41,8 (fe (female negative mentions) = 0,664 x 63 = 41,8 mentions). The difference (+3,2) of absolute frequency (45) and expected frequency of negative female mentions (41,8) confirms the tendency that according to the negative mentions, female realign fashion consumers view local fashion brands more negatively than male realign fashion consumers. This insight was gained by considering all used social media sources such as Facebook, Twitter, fashion blogs, reviews data, forums, News, video; the social media source “News” refers to social media statements of magazines or newspapers written by journalist or bloggers; and these social media comments/ posts are considered in this investigation because it is common for journalists to frequently state their estimation/ opinion/ attitude towards fashion brands according to their own consumer experience. With regard to the fact that 102 (61,8%) remarks cannot be allocated by the system to a male or female person, additional measurable outcomes are treated only as an indication. Within this context, this indication might be confirmed by recognising the increasingly relevant social media data sources of this investigation. According to the results of the qualitative analysis, the female realign-respondents state that Fashion-Blogs, Twitter data, (Amazon) reviews, and Facebook posts have an increasing influence on their opinions and mentions, respectively. Considering this differentiated aspect, the social media model is redefined based on the social media sources. The increasing relevance of the social media source is attributed to the local fashion brand topic and the consumers’ perception of Facebook mentions (10), fashion blog mentions (19), Reviews mentions (72) and Twitter data

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mentions (4), which sum up to 105 negative mentions with reference to 165 all negative mentions (all social media sources), representing 61,2% in total. The difference of 38,8% draws on mentions of the social media source News, videos and forums. The following figure 38 presents the allocation of negative mentions towards local fashion brands from the social media sources ´reviews´, ´blogs´, ´Facebook´, and Twitter data.

Figure 38: Source Analysis of Local Fashion Brands due to Negative Mentions (with reference to IBM Watson Analytics for Social Media)

Figure 38 illustrates that 41 of 105 (39,0%) stated remarks of female users (with respect to the social data sources of Reviews, Blogs, Facebook and Twitter data) have a negative impact on local fashion brands, in contrast to 17 of 105 male users (16,2 %). 47 (44,8%) social media users could not be assigned to a female or male gender.

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Figure 39: Demographic Analysis of Local Fashion Brands due to Negative Mentions (with reference to IBM Watson Analytics for Social Media)

Thus, the analysis indicates that female realign fashion consumers might estimate local fashion brands more negatively than male realign fashion consumers. In summary: Firstly, 1.349 positive mentions (49,8%) of all fashion social media mentions (2.710) as opposed to 165 of negative mentions (6,1%) emphasizes/ proves the general assumption/ result of the qualitative analysis when considering a positive local fashion brand attitude of the realign high fashion involvement consumer. Secondly, female realign fashion consumers might perceive local fashion brands more negatively than male realign fashion consumers. This insight supports the explanation theory that female realign fashion consumers assess local fashion brands more negatively because their expectations for modern, trendy, international fashion design approaches from local fashion brands are not met. This has a greater impact on their local fashion brand perception than it does on that of men, even though women appreciate, for example, the ´high quality´ of local fashion brands in terms of premium workmanship. The cross tabulation 40 summarises and clarifies the aforementioned context of the research question by presenting the frequency of the variable ´gender´ and ´sentiments´ (effective evaluation of local fashion brands) with respect to all mentions of sentiments and gender based on all social media sources.

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Sentiment Positive mentions

Negative mentions

Neutral mentions

Ambivalent mentions

In total

%

Gender

Unit (fi)

% (fi)

Unit (fi)

% (fi)

Unit (fi)

% (fi)

Units (fi)

% (fi)

unit

female

301

22,3

45

27,3

209

19,2

19

18,3

574

21,2

male

156

11,5

18

10,9

103

9,4

13

12,5

290

10,7

Unassigned

892

66,1

102

61,8

780

71,4

72

69,2

1.846

68,1

In total

1.349

100

165

100

1.092

100

104

100

2.710

100

Table 60: Cross Tabulation/ Frequency (fi) of Local Fashion Brand Mentions Additionally, the above-presented table 56 shows the frequency distribution of the variables gender and sentiments (effective evaluation of local fashion brands). Thus, it might initialize the opportunity to prove the second part of the research question - if a significant relationship exists between the gender of a realign fashion consumer and his/her sentiment towards local fashion brands. Even though the database fulfils the requirements of the Chi-Quadrat-independentTest, referring on one hand to the nominal scaled variable ´gender´ and ´emotional evaluation of local fashion brands´ and on the other hand referring to the expected minimum frequency, which is greater than 5 (fe>5) (Kuckartz et al., 2013, p.96); the application of the Chi-Quadrat-Independent-test cannot be recommended. A large number of respondent mentions of the sample cannot be assigned to a distinct gender (68,1%), which leads to an imprecise database. Regarding documented measurable outcome due to the social media analysis of the refined research question, a higher number of assigned mentions was expected towards the variable gender (31,9%). Hence, it should be pointed out that this aspect is an implication for upcoming research in this field. Subsequently, the quantitative result of the social media analysis serves as both a tendency and a complementary result of the qualitative analysis. To substantiate the tendency of the presented results, the research implements/ conducts a Chi-Quadrat-Independ-Test under the condition of non-consideration of unassigned mentions towards gender. With respect to the gained cross-tabulation of absolute and relative frequency, the ChiQuadrat-Independ-Test might be the basis to prove if the variable ´gender´ has a significant influence on the emotional evaluation of a local fashion brand (positive, negative, neutral, ambivalent). Under the condition that the unassigned mentions (68,1%) are not considered, the Chi-Quadrat-Independ-Test would present the following results:

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Sentiments based on all social media sources Sentiment Positive mentions

Negative mentions

In total

Neutral mentions

Ambivalent mentions

Gender

Unit (fi)

% (fi)

Unit (fi)

% (fi)

Unit (fi)

% (fi)

Units (fi)

% (fi)

unit

%

female

301

65,9

45

71,4

209

67,0

19

59,4

574

66,4

male

156

34,1

18

28,6

103

33,0

13

40,6

290

33,6

In total

457

100

63

100

312

100

32

100

864

100

Table 61: Cross Tabulation/ Frequency (fi) of Local Fashion Brand Mentions without Consideration of Unassigned Mentions Table 61 presents 66,4% female mentions based on 864 total mentions. Given the assumption that gender has NO influence on the direction of the sentiment (positive, negative, neutral, ambivalent), the following results (fe = expected frequency) are to be expected: fe (female positive mentions) = 0,664 x 457 = 303,4 mentions fe (female negative mentions) = 0,664 x 63 = 41,8 mentions fe (female neutral mentions) = 0,664 x 312 = 207,2 mentions (female ambivalent mentions) = 0,664 x 32 = 21,3 mentions The empirical gained frequency of the social media study due to female negative mentions (45) differs from the expected frequency (41,8). This data suggests that there might be a relationship between the variable ´gender mention´ and ´sentiment´ of the perception of local fashion brands. In a second step, the following expected frequencies (fe) are determined: fe = nj x pi and further, fe = Sum of row variable (i) x sum of column variable (j) n nj = number of mentions in category/ column variable ´sentiments´ pi = relative frequency due to characteristic attribute of row variable ´gender´ n = number of cases

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Sentiments based on all social media sources In total

Sentiment Positive mentions

Negative mentions

Neutral mentions

Ambivalent mentions

Gender

Unit (fe)

% (fe)

Unit (fe)

% (fe)

Unit (fe)

% (fe)

Unit (fe)

% (fe)

units

female

303,4

66,4

41,8

66,3

207,2

66,4

21,3

66,6

574

male

153,6

33,6

21,2

33,7

104,8

33,6

10,7

33,4

290

457

100

63

100

312

100

32

100

864

In total

Table 62: Cross Tabulation/ Expected Frequency (fe) of Local Fashion Brand Mentions Table 62 presents the expected frequencies. The next step shows the absolute frequency (fi), expected frequency, and residues. Sentiments based on all social media sources Sentiment Positive mentions

total

Neutral mention

Ambivalent mentions

Sum

(fe)

R

(fi)

(fe)

R

(fi)

(fe)

R

(fi)

(fe)

R

unit

301

303,4

-2,4

45

41,8

3,2

209

207,2

1,8

19

21,3

-2,3

574

156

153,6

2,4

18

21,2

-3,2

103

104,8

-1,8

13

10,7

2,3

290

457

457

63

63

312

312

32

32

male femal e

(fi)

Negative mentions

864

Table 63: Absolute Frequency (fi), Expected Frequency (fe) and Residues Based on the mentioned data set, Chi-Quadrat is evaluated as follows: X 2 = ∑� ���

(�������)� ��(�)

m = number of cells fi = absolute frequency (empirical observed) fe = expected frequency X2 =

(��,�) ���,�

�

+

(�,�)

�

���,�

+

(�,�) ��,�

�

+

(��,�) ��,�

�

+

(�,�)

�

���,�

+

(��,�) ���,�

�

+

(��,�) ��,�

�

+

(�,�)

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��,�

X2 = 0,019 + 0,038 + 0,245 + 0,483 + 0,016 + 0,031 + 0,248 + 0,494 = 1,574

A positive result (X2>0) indicates a relationship between the variables (Kuckartz et al., 2013, p.92). However, it does not prove the strength of the relationship.

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Presentation of Results

As a result: Firstly, on the condition that unassigned mentions are not considered, the result presents a relationship between the variable ´gender´ and the variable ´sentiment´. Therefore, gender has an impact on the affective, emotional evaluation (sentiment) of local fashion brands. Additionally, based on the results of expected frequencies (fe) and absolute frequencies (fi), women have a higher empirical frequency with respect to negative sentiments (fi, female/ negative sentiments: 45) than the expected frequency (fe, female/ negative sentiments: 41,8). This tendency is emphasized by female sentiment allocation considering positive sentiment, given that women have a lower empirical frequency of positive sentiments (fi, female/positive sentiments: 301) than the expected frequency of positive sentiments towards the perception of local fashion brands (fe, female/ positive sentiments: 303,6). In contrast, male sentiment frequency allocation is conversely reproduced. Therefore, men have a lower empirical frequency considering negative sentiments (fi, male/ negative sentiments: 18) than the expected frequency (fe, male/ negative sentiments: 21,2). Moreover, men have a higher empirical frequency of positive sentiments (fi, male/ positive sentiments: 156) than the expected frequency of positive sentiments towards the perception of local fashion brands (fe, male/ positive sentiments: 153,6). Secondly, in this context, it can also be constituted that women have a stronger tendency to provide negative sentiments on local fashion brands than that of men. 4.3.1.4 Analysis and Insights of Realign Users’ Intention of Recommendation Given the results of the qualitative analysis (chapter 6.1.9), realign fashion consumers are highly motivated to support local fashion brands due to a higher purchase intention because they desire to buy the right brand based on their lifestyle. This is revealed due to the following LFB perception, which reduces their specific risk concerning fashion purchase complexity:  A standard premium quality, emphasising the premium processing  The distinct implementation of fine craftsmanship.  The trustworthy implementation of social and partly ecological sustainable aspects of fashion.  A higher credible reputation due to the local fashion brand’s social responsibility  A stronger affiliation, appreciation, and admiration, which prompts the desire to support the local fashion brand creator or designer due to her/his distinctive, courageous personality.  A stronger affiliation and appreciation to support the local fashion brand’s performance and personality due to its local brand story. The question arises if local fashion brands are only supported by a higher purchase intention of realign and high fashion involvement consumers’ perception of a ´premium quality´ characteristic. Additionally, realign fashion consumers might advocate local

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fashion brands by recommending them to their friends. Based on the aforementioned social media model setup, figure 56 presents the local fashion brand characteristic (Watson theme) high quality, which contains expressions of quality such as valuable, high-quality workmanship and processing, or premium craftsmanship.

Figure 40: Themes Analysis of Local Fashion Brand Quality Positive Mentions (with reference to IBM Watson Analytics for Social Media)

Given the qualitative main investigation, the evaluated characteristics of local fashion brands explain 12% (169) of all positive mentions (1.349). 88% mentions cannot be allocated to a theme (characteristic) because of its unspecified written social media character. The latter reveals a critical aspect of the social media analytics method that might be solved by subsequent academic investigations based on these results. The characteristic of high-quality corresponding with positive mentions of a local fashion brand is the most relevant theme with regard to local fashion brands. Figure 40 illustrates that 120 positive mentions (71,0%) refer to the perceived quality of a local fashion brand based on 169 total mentions due to positive sentiments. As an interim conclusion, the perceived ´high quality´ (71,0%) of a local fashion brand emphasizes the qualitative findings considering the strong impact of the perceived high-quality characteristic on a positive local fashion brand attitude (see structural

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Presentation of Results

All mentions due to local fashion brand characteristics

equation modelling of local fashion brand attitude). Table 60 illustrates the impact of the ´high-quality´ characteristic of a local fashion brand by presenting all mentions (169) of local fashion brand characteristics regarding local fashion brand high-quality due to positive sentiments extracted from all social media sources and all genders with no gender-based allocation. Characteristic of local fashion brand

Units (fi)

% (fi)

High-quality  Valuable, upmarket, premium  High workmanship, processing  Good craftsmanship

120

71,0

Personal  Local designer  Personality  Courageous, independent

11

6,5

Hand-crafted  Hand-made  Love for details, appreciation  Tradition, traditional

9

5,3

Origin  Affiliation, tangibility, affinity  Clear identity  Region, Designer, Owner

8

4,7

Transparent  Authentic, credible  Trustworthiness  true

7

4,15

Not modern  staid, stale, conservative  not cool, not trendy  self-made

7

4,15

Sustainable  social, fair production  ecological  ethical

3

1,8

Higher Price (willingness)  expensive, high price  justified (high price)  willing to pay premium price

2

1,2

Coverage  small, low coverage/ reach/ distribution  limited reachability  small hinterland

1

0,6

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Characteristic of local fashion brand

Units (fi)

% (fi)

Good story  personal, individual story  good (marketing) story  story of the brand

1

0,6

In total

169

100

Table 64: Distribution of Mentions due to Local Fashion Brand Characteristics Even though variables with an inferior impact of 20% (fi