Patek Philippe Museum Catalog, Horology [1+2]

Table of contents :
Patek_Philippe_Museum_Catalog_Preview_Volume_I
volume 1, page 5
volume 1,title
Patek_Philippe_Museum_Catalog_Preview_Volume_II

Citation preview

patek philippe watches Volume i

Vol ume i Preface 

The Birth of a Company 

9

11

the protagonists: antoine Norbert de patek, François czapek and Jean adrien philippe

12

Pocket Watches without Horological Complications

17

Early Watches, 1839–1842

19

Watches made for the Polish Market, 1841–1872

23

Watch and Movement by Jean Adrien Philippe, 1842–1845

41

Watches and Other Pieces by François Czapek, 1845–1865

43

Pocket Watches, 1843–1895

55

Enamelled and Engraved Watches, 1842–1869

83

Watches with Cabriolet Cases, 1842–1858

101

Religious-Themed Watches, 1843–1861

107

Miniature Watches, Form Watches, Watches with Precious and Semi-Precious Stones, 1846–1870

115

Animal and Nature-Themed Watches, 1846–1871

127

Lorgnette Watches and Objects Incorporating Watches, 1847–1852

135

Watches Shown at Universal Exhibitions, 1850–1854

143

Watches made for Tiffany & Co., 1850–1863

149

Timepieces for Royalty, 1866–1901

157

Pocket Watches, 1892–1922

173

5

Pocket Watches with Horological Complications

185

Repeating, 1839–1926

187

Independent Seconds, 1858–1913

257

Time Zones, 1861–1901

265

Calendar Watches, 1868–1981

271

Chronographs, 1870–1967

289

Double Complication, 1877–1993

339

Triple Complication, 1864–1920

391

Triple Complication with Additional Complications, 1874–1931

405

Grand Complication, 1895–1970

415

Grande and Petite Sonnerie, 1895–1965

439

Singing Birds, 1865–1926

459

Glossary

470

Colophon

476

preface

I am very pleased to announce the publication of the first catalogue devoted to the collection of patek philippe timepieces on display at the patek philippe Museum. this book is the result of many years of work. it documents and illustrates a representative selection of the company’s watches from the time of its founding in 1839 until approximately 1980, offering an outstanding panorama of the production of patek philippe, which has continued uninterrupted for over 170 years. after having spent more than 40 years travelling, seeking out, and acquiring watches, i decided my collection deserved to be housed in a museum. the patek philippe Museum opened to the public in 2001. Its aim is to encourage visitors from Geneva, the rest of Switzerland, and abroad, to discover – or rediscover – our city’s great horological tradition, of which patek philippe watches are an intrinsic part. the museum pays homage to the watchmakers of yesterday and today who endeavour to perpetuate traditional skills and to transmit them to future generations. The Patek Philippe Museum collection will interest all collectors and lovers of fine horology, and particularly those who appreciate patek philippe watches. its primary goal is didactic, its ambition being to inspire the young people of the present and the future and to encourage horological vocations and promote the progress of haute horology. The help of several knowledgeable people who share my passion for fine horology proved invalu­ able. without it, i could never have assembled this collection, which highlights some of the most exceptional Patek Philippe timepieces. I wish first to mention Mr. Alan Banbery, who worked tirelessly for over thirty years to constitute the core of the collection. taking over this task, Mr. Arnaud Tellier enriched the basic collection over the course of ten years, acquiring major pieces and carrying out the huge task of research, documentation, and description that forms the basis of this catalogue. My sincerest thanks go to these two remarkable men. i also wish to express my gratitude to the many people who contributed to the production and completion of this book, and particularly to Sharon Kerman, who revised the descriptions of all the watches and finalised the layout.

PhiliPPe Stern honorary PreSident Patek PhiliPPe, Geneva

9

The Birth of a Company

Born of the encounter between men from different worlds, the priority of the Patek Philippe Company has always been the search for perfection. The firm – known successively as Patek, Czapek & Cie (1839), Patek & Cie (1845), and then Patek, Philippe et Cie (1851) – owes its existence to the combined talents of Antoni Norbert Patek de Prawdzic (later known as Antoine Norbert de Patek), a Polish patriot who had taken refuge in Geneva, and Jean Adrien Philippe, a French horologist whose gifts were not recognised in his homeland. In this team, Philppe was the watchmaker par excellence, a brilliant inventor whose high standards spurred the company’s technical progress, while Patek was the determined and visionary entrepreneur. Some of the early watches, bearing the portraits of Polish heroes or the symbols of a fervent religious faith, bore testimony to the aspirations of the Polish émigrés; indeed, many of the early clients were exiled Polish patriots and aristocrats. The International World’s Fairs played an important role in the firm’s history. The 1851 Universal Exhibition in London was the first international event in which Patek Philippe participated. There it drew the attention of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, who purchased a stemwound watch and a quarter-repeating one. This was the first success in a series of many, including numerous prizes and other distinctions won at International Exhibitions. While granting great importance to technical complications, the new company was also attentive to the decoration of its watches. Its exquisite miniature and form watches were in the finest Geneva tradition. The American jewellery firm Tiffany & Co began offering Patek Philippe watches very early, spreading the company’s renown in the New World. The corporate name went through several modifications with the arrival or departure of various partners. In 1901, the firm became a limited company under the name Ancienne Manufacture d’Horlogerie Patek, Philippe & Cie, which prefigured the current name: Patek Philippe SA. In 1932, Charles and Jean Stern acquired the manufacture. In 1946, Charles’ son Henri founded the Henri Stern Watch Agency in New York, which became the distributor of Patek Philippe watches for the American market. Today, Patek Philippe SA is the last independent family-owned watch manufacturer in Geneva. In 2009, its presidency was transferred from the 3rd to the 4th generation of the Stern family. The first chapter of this catalogue presents the watches manufactured in the years following the company’s founding in 1839, as well as a watch and a movement made by Jean Adrien Philippe and featuring his first stem-winding and setting mechanism, and horological pieces produced by François Czapek after he left the firm.

The Prota g o n i s t s

Antoine Norbert de Patek (1812 – 1877) Born on June 12, 1812 in the village of Piaski in poland, the young antoine Norbert de patek joined the fight against the Russian invasion of his country. at the age of 16, he enlisted in the polish cavalry, taking part in the November 1830 insurrection and being twice wounded. when the revolt was crushed poland became a Russian province and the rebels were severely punished. patek, like many of his compatriots, was forced to emigrate. he travelled to France, where he worked for a time as a typographer, and ultimately settled in Geneva. There he tried his hand at several trades, briefly studying with the painter alexandre calame before becoming interested in watchmaking. placing a great deal of importance on quality from the start, he purchased excellent watch movements and had them mounted in fine cases. soon his business sense and high standards made him a well-known merchant. patek became friendly with François czapek, a polish watchmaker of czech origin with whom he founded the firm Patek, Czapek & Cie on May 1, 1839. in its early years, the company employed a half-dozen workers and produced approximately two hundred pieces per year, all of excellent quality.

THE BIRTH OF A COMPANY

patek married Marie adélaïde elisabeth thomasine Denizart, the daughter of a French merchant. the couple had three children: a first child who survived only a few months; a son, léon Mecyslas Vincent, born on July 19, 1857; and a daughter, Marie Edwige, born on October 23, 1859. in 1843, antoine Norbert de patek became a swiss citizen and was granted the status of “bourgeois”, or burgher, of Geneva. He made many business journeys throughout Europe and the United states. In 1845, Czapek left the firm, which would soon be joined by the French watchmaker Jean adrien philippe. antoine Norbert de patek was a fervent and lifelong supporter of the polish cause, always ready to come to the aid of polish refugees. he was an active catholic who was made a count by pope pius iX in recognition of his services to the church. antoine Norbert de Patek died in Geneva on March 1, 1877, and is buried in the city’s châtelaine cemetery.

François Czapek (1811 – after 1869) François czapek was born on april 4, 1811, in Semonitz, Bohemia. He took part in the November 1830 insurrection as a soldier in the National Guard. He was soon forced to flee the country, and on July 1, 1832, he arrived in Geneva. trained as a watchmaker, he founded the company Czapek & Moreau (his business partner, Mr. Moreau, came from Versoix near Geneva). On October 22, 1836, he married Marie Gevril, the daughter of a carouge watchmaker. On May 1, 1839, he founded the firm Patek, Czapek & Cie with antoine Norbert de patek. as a fervent patriot, he hoped to create a “polish National Manufacture” that would be transferred to poland as soon as circumstances allowed.

In Leipzig in 1850, Czapek published the first horological book ever published in the polish language. its French title was Remarques sur le métier d’horloger à l’usage de l’horloger et du public. in 1854, he opened a shop in warsaw, then another in paris in 1860, at place Vendôme, No. 23. Due to Julius Gruzewski’s friendship with Napoleon III, the Czapek firm became the offical supplier to the French Imperial court. Despite these successes, Czapek & Cie disappeared around 1869, and the business was taken over by a. chailland. the polish Grande Encyclopédie illustrée of 1895 stated that François czapek had died in poverty; the date of his death is unknown.

On April 18, 1845, due to disagreements between the two partners, Patek, Czapek & Cie was liquidated. embarking on a new partnership with a former hero of the 1830 insurrection named Julius Gruzewski, François Czapek used the corporate name Czapek & Cie. when Frenchman Jean Adrien Philippe joined the Patek firm, several polish clients transferred their patronage to czapek.

13

The Prota g o n i s t s

Jean Adrien Philippe (1815 – 1894) the son of a watchmaker, Jean adrien philippe was born on April 16, 1815, in Bazoche­Gouet, eure-et-loire, France. he trained at his father’s workbench before embarking on his journey­ man’s “tour de France” at the age of 18. working successively in Rouen (1836), Le Havre (1836 –1837) and London (1837–1839), he settled in paris in July, 1839. around 1840, he started making watch movements. By 1842, he began researching winding and setting mechanisms activated by a crown on the watch pendant. the idea was not new – several attempts had been previously made to do away with watch keys, due to the fact that they were easily lost, often damaged enamel dials during winding, and because eliminating the winding square also reduced the mechanism’s exposure to dust and conserved oil. however, philippe’s mechanisms produced better results than any of the prior stem-winding systems, and unlike them, it was suited to the flat watches then in fashion. philippe invested all his money in a stemwinding and setting mechanism that he presented at the 1844 exhibition of the products of French Industry. But the invention was not a commercial success, despite having been awarded a bronze medal.

THE BIRTH OF A COMPANY

after purchasing one of the young watchmaker’s timepieces, antoine Norbert de patek travelled to paris to meet him. his partnership with Czapek was floundering and he was looking for a new associate. he invited the Frenchman to become the new technical director of his firm. philippe, who had dreamed of launching a flourishing watch industry in the French capital, hesitated but finally chose to leave Paris. This decision was largely due to the fact that his principal supporter and client charles-louis le Roy had sold his business in the Palais Royal quarter, and that very few others saw the potential of philippe’s work. at the time, Jean adrien philippe had produced approximately 40 keyless watches. Before leaving France, he filed a patent for his invention: a “system or mechanical device for winding and setting watches by the stem; a device that may be applied to all types of ordinary watches as well as to repeating and marine watches, and even to independent seconds watches.” On May 1, 1845, he began working in the Geneva company. The beginnings were difficult; the Genevan and Polish watchmakers employed by the firm considered him an intruder and his exacting technical standards required them to make unwelcome changes in their work habits.

to make matters worse, patek compelled him to accept a third associate – a polish lawyer named Vincent Gostkowski, who brought capital to the firm. Uprooted and with limited resources, philippe reluctantly consented. however, over time, his patience and good-natured personality prevailed. On January 1, 1851, the partnership was renewed with the addition of the Frenchman’s name: Patek, Philippe & Cie. On August 17, 1851, Philippe married Anne­Marie Bailly, with whom he was to have five children. A prolific inventor, Philippe also promoted the mechanisation of the watchmaking industry. he strove to perfect his stem-winding mechanism over a period of many years. He filed many patents, in several countries, under either his own name or that of Patek, Philippe & Cie. Around 1860, he devised the definitive version of his stem-winding and time-setting system, having previously obtained patents No. 1317 (1845), No. 46 827 (1860), and No. 46 951 (1861), in paris. he invented the “slipping” spring (French patent No. 58 941, with an addition in 1863). Philippe also penned numerous articles in horological journals. In 1863, he published a book entitled Les montres sans clef (Keyless watches) in which he discussed his work on independent seconds and the slipping spring, or “ressort libre” in French. he contributed articles on the industrial production of watches to the Journal de Genève.

his “Notice sur l’horlogerie de la manufacture Patek, Philippe & C ie, 22, Grand­Quai, Genève, Exposition universelle de Paris 1878” (Notice on the horological production of patek, Philippe & C ie, 22, Grand­Quai, Geneva, Paris 1878 Universal Exhibition) presented the company and its technical innovations, with descriptions of the 127 chronometers, watches and objects, as well as the 86 movements, 39 ebauches and hundreds of components on display at the exhibition. at the 1878 Universal exhibition philippe wrote critical essays for the Journal de Genève, analysing the pieces shown there; these essays are an important guide to understanding the horology of the period. philippe was a member of the Jury at that event, as well as at the exhibitions of Zurich in 1883 and Anvers in 1885.

profoundly saddened by the death of his wife in 1892, Jean adrien philippe passed away on January 5, 1894, without ever having left his workbench. He is buried in Geneva’s Saint­ Georges cemetery. in 1880, France awarded him the cross of the Legion of Honour; this was a belated honour from the country he had left a half-century before as an unknown and unappreciated watchmaker. in 1890, he was made knight of the legion of honour.

An active member of the Geneva Société des Arts and the Geneva Astronomical Observatory, philippe won many prizes at annual chronometry contests. in 1881, he invented the “philippe” precision regulator for precise fast/slow adjustment in watches. in the early 20th century, an improved version of this device was fitted to all Chronometro Gondolo watches as well as to many other pocket and wristwatches.

15

pocket watches without h orological complications

When Patek, Czapek & Cie was founded in May 1839, the market was promising. Fine watches were in great demand and over the six years of their partnership, Patek and Czapek produced approximately 1120 watches, all of excellent quality. The watches made during the early decades – with the exception of watches with horological complications, treated in the second chapter of this catalogue – were often embellished with enamelling or engraving. Often the decorative motifs were inspired by the history and culture of Poland. Many of the firm’s clients were Polish; several were Polish patriots who had been forced to emigrate to Western Europe and missed their homeland. This clientele, very receptive to Czapek’s ideal of a Polish National Manufacture, favoured portraits of Polish patriots and religious-themed motifs. Nearly all the early watches were fitted with a cylinder escapement, either in steel or with jewelled pallets. The earliest balances were monometallic, made of gold or gilt brass; some indexes had a bimetallic temperature compensation curb. François Czapek left the partnership with Patek in 1845 and founded his own company in 1851. Located in Paris’s Place Vendôme, his company became a supplier to the Emperor Napoleon III and the Imperial Court. The pieces included here are typical of his production of the period. As for Jean Adrien Philippe, the young watchmaker who drew Patek’s attention in 1845 and who became his business partner in 1851, his quest for a satisfactory stemwinding and setting system is one of the most important events in 19th century horology. The watch and movement by Philippe included in this chapter feature the visionary inventor’s first stem-winding system. With the 19th century came the ambitious Universal Exhibitions, international showcases of the period’s industrial development. These events greatly contributed to the young company’s fame. At the 1851 London Exhibition, the firm’s reputation was further enhanced when Queen Victoria and Prince Albert both acquired Patek Philippe watches. Over the next few decades, many members of royal families and the aristocracy followed suit, purchasing prestigious timepieces from the Geneva firm – these were often watches with complications. At the 1851 Exhibition, Richard Rippon Dent (stepson of renowned horologist Edward John Dent, he had inherited an interest in the family firm on the condition that he take the name of Dent) proclaimed his intention to purchase the entire Patek, Philippe display. While he did not make good on this initial promise, by the end of the exhibition Dent had nevertheless acquired approximately thirty watches. The case decoration was entrusted to the outstanding artisans of Geneva. The lavish ornamentation of pendant watches, form watches, and watches housed in objects such as lorgnettes is particularly remarkable. Whether embellished with champlevé or cloisonné enamel, fine painted on enamel scenes, or delicate engraving, these watch cases are of outstanding quality. The firm’s miniature watches posed a technical and esthetic challenge that was brilliantly met. The manufacture’s prestige grew even further around 1849, when the renowned Tiffany firm of New York began offering the company’s watches. An 1851 agreement made Tiffany the first American company to sell Patek, Philippe watches.

Watch an d M o v e m e n t by Jean A d r i e n P h i l i p p e , 1842 –184 5

Movement Incorporating Jean Adrien Philippe’s First Stem winding and Setting Mechanism Jean adrien philippe, paris Movement 17’’’, cylinder escapement and gold balance, incorporating Jean Adrien Philippe’s first stem winding and setting system 1842 Inv. P­1842 h. 51.6 mm / ∅ 38.4 mm / thickness 7.5 mm When young Parisian watchmaker Jean Adrien Philippe addressed the problem of keyless winding, he was aware of the previous efforts in the field, including the small number of keyless watches made by Breguet circa 1840. The stem-winding system Philippe developed was simple and robust, and was well suited to the flat watches then in fashion. He continued to improve the mechanism, registering several patents, until 1860. Philippe’s system was not a commercial success despite having been awarded a bronze medal at the 1844 Exhibition of the Products of French Industry. When Antoine Norbert de Patek heard of the Frenchman’s work he immediately saw its potential for his company, which at the time produced keyless watches with the system developed by Louis Audemars of Le Brassus. Patek invited Philippe to work with him in Geneva, after which time Philippe’s mechanism was used in the manufacture’s keyless watches. By the time he left Paris, Philippe had already constructed several watches of this type.

P O C K E T WAT C H E S W I T H O U T H O R O L O G I C A L C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Pocket Watch by Jean Adrien Philippe Jean adrien philippe, paris Open­faced, stem winding and setting Yellow gold case, No. 821 338 Enamel dial, painted Roman numerals Blued steel Breguet hands Movement matte gilt, cylinder escapement, monometallic balance circa 1845 Inv. P­1592 h. 60.3 mm / ∅ 44.6 mm / thickness 9.7 mm This watch, with an engine-turned case, incorporates Jean Adrien Philippe’s first stemwinding and setting system.

Pendant Watch Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève, No. 32 216 Open­faced, stem winding and setting Rose gold case White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals Blued steel Poire hands Movement 13’’’, patek, philippe ebauche, gilt, cylinder escapement, monometallic balance and flat balance spring 1867–1869 Inv. P­403 h. 47.7 mm / ∅ 33.5 mm / thickness 10.7 mm; accompanied by a matching chatelaine: h. 92 mm / width 32.6 mm / thickness 11.7 mm Painted on enamel on the back, a shepherdess and her dog within a green gold frame with a chased and black enamelled surround. The rose gold chatelaine, probably French, is similarly decorated, with four oval cartouches, their backs protected by mother of pearl plaques. This chatelaine watch is typical of the late 19 th century taste for the historicist movement and particularly for the Louis XVI style.

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The First Patek Philippe Wristwatch Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève, No. 27 368 Lady’s wristwatch, hunter type case, key winding and setting Rectangular yellow gold case, hinged back White enamel dial, upright painted Breguet numerals Blued steel Poire hands Movement 6’’’, baguette, gilt, cylinder escapement, monometallic balance and flat balance spring 1868 Inv. P­49 H. 13.2 mm / width 32.3 mm / thickness 13.6 mm; bracelet: inside ∅ ~ 56 mm / outside ∅ ~ 62.3 mm The cover is enamelled in black and set with rose-cut diamonds. This watch may be considered one of the first modern wristwatches. It is not a bracelet fitted with a pendant watch or a watch movement – that is, a bracelet watch of the type that was occaisonally seen in the early 19 th century –  but a veritable timepiece to be worn on the wrist, whose bracelet is of secondary importance. Illustration (right) 200%

Enamelled and Engraved Watches, 1842–1869

99

Pocket Watch with Cabriolet Case Patek & Cie, Genève, No. 714 cabriolet case, key winding and setting Yellow gold outer and inner cases Satin­finished gold dial, painted Roman numerals, centre engraved in a vermicelli pattern Blued steel Breguet hands Movement 17’’’, louis audemars ebauche, gilt, duplex escapement, monometallic balance and flat balance spring 1842 Inv. P­173 with outer case: h. 66.8 mm / ∅ 50 mm / thickness 9.7 mm; without outer case: H. 63.3 mm / ∅ 42.6 mm / thickness 8.3 mm

P O C K E T WAT C H E S W I T H O U T H O R O L O G I C A L C O M P L I C AT I O N S

The front and back are engraved with a vermicelli pattern. In a “cabriolet” case, the watch may be placed with the front facing outward, as an open-faced watch, or with the back facing outward, as a hunting-cased watch, to protect the glass. This type of case appears to have been created by Abraham Louis Breguet around 1810, for his watches intended for the Turkish market. With this type of case, both inner and outer cases may be decorated in a similar manner.

Pocket Watch with Cabriolet Case Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève, No. 6223 cabriolet case, stem winding and setting Yellow gold outer and inner cases White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals Blued steel Breguet hands Movement 16’’’, patek, philippe ebauche, gilt, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, compensation balance with gold timing screws and flat balance spring 1851–1852 Inv. P­897 with outer case: h. 64.9 mm / ∅ 47.8 mm / thickness 9.4 mm; without outer case: H. 61.9 mm / ∅ 41.1 mm / thickness 8.4 mm

Watches with Cabriolet Cases, 1842–1858

Delivered on November 10, 1852, to Tiffany, Young & Ellis, New York. The case backs are engraved in a vermicelli pattern; the outer case back features a floral motif, the back of the inner case an escutcheon. In a “cabriolet” case, the watch may be placed with the front facing outward, as an open-faced watch, or with the back facing outward, as a hunting-cased watch, to protect the glass. This type of case appears to have been created by Abraham Louis Breguet around 1810, for his watches intended for the Turkish market. With this type of case, both inner and outer cases may be decorated in a similar manner. The words “invention brevetée“ (patented invention) engraved on the cuvette indicate the watch employs Jean Adrien Philippe’s stem-winding system (patent No. 1317 of April 22, 1845).

103

Lorgnette Pendant Watch Patek & Cie, Genève, No. 2277 hunter case, key winding and setting, made for the polish market Yellow gold case White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals Blued steel Breguet hands Rectangular movement “for lorgnette”, 9’’’ x 15’’’, audemars ebauche, gilt, cylinder escapement, monometallic balance and flat balance spring 1847–1848 Inv. P­1354 l. 88 mm / width 23.6 mm / thickness 10 mm The case is entirely engraved with scrolling motifs and flowers; the front cover is painted on enamel with a flower bouquet. It appears that Patek, Philippe & C ie made approximately thirty such watches. The company also produced rectangular movements “for lorgnette” that were used in other pieces. illustration 130%

P O C K E T WAT C H E S W I T H O U T H O R O L O G I C A L C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Lorgnette Pendant Watch Patek & Cie, Genève, No. 2955 hunter case, key winding and setting Yellow gold case White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals Blued steel Breguet hands Rectangular movement “for lorgnette”, 9’’’ x 15’’’, audemars ebauche, gilt, cylinder escapement, monometallic balance and flat balance spring 1848 Inv. P­20 l. 88.6 mm / width 25.2 mm / thickness 11.9 mm The case is entirely engraved with scrolling motifs, with an escutcheon on the back; the cover bears an enamelled flower bouquet set with rosecut diamonds. It appears that Patek, Philippe & C ie made approximately thirty such watches. The company also produced rectangular movements “for lorgnette” that were used in other pieces. illustration 130%

Lorgnette Watches and Objects Incorporating Watches, 1847–1852

137

Queen Victoria’s Pendant Watch Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève, No. 4536 Open­faced, stem winding and setting Yellow gold case White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals Blued steel Breguet hands Movement 13’’’, patek, philippe ebauche, gilt, cylinder escapement, monometallic balance and flat balance spring 1850–1851 Inv. P­24 h. 46.8 mm / ∅ 33.2 mm / thickness 9.2 mm; accompanied by a matching brooch: h. 21.3 mm / width 34.7 mm / thickness 10.2 mm

P O C K E T WAT C H E S W I T H O U T H O R O L O G I C A L C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Delivered on August 18, 1851, to “N[otre] s[ieu]r philippe” (our Mr. Philippe). Tradition has it that this watch was presented to Queen Victoria at the 1851 Universal Exhibition in London. The back features a bouquet of rose-cut diamondset roses set on a lapis blue enamel ground surrounded by scrolling. The words “invention brevetée“ (patented invention) engraved on the cuvette indicate the watch employs Jean Adrien Philippe’s stem-winding system (patent No. 1317 of April 22, 1845).

Miniature portrait of Queen Victoria, painted on enamel by John Haslem after a portrait by Franz-Xaver Winterhalter, 1849, H. 75 mm.

Queen Victoria’s Pendant Watch Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève, No. 4719 Open­faced, key winding and setting Yellow gold case White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals Blued steel Breguet hands Movement 12’’’, LeCoultre & Cie ebauche, gilt, cylinder escapement, monometallic balance and flat balance spring 1850–1851 Inv. P­27 h. 42.5 mm / ∅ 30.5 mm / thickness 8.9 mm The back features a flower bouquet set with rosecut diamonds, on a sky-blue enamel ground; the bezels are engraved. This watch, shown at the 1851 London Universal Exhibition, was sold to Queen Victoria on November 30, 1851. Albert, the Prince Consort, also purchased a watch at the exhibition (of which he was an ardent promoter). This watch, bearing the number 3218, was a quarter repeating pocket chronometer with detent escapement. Few Patek, Philippe & C ie watches of this period are signed on the dial, case, and movement, as is this watch.

Page from the Patek, Philippe & C ie Archives concerning this watch

Watches Shown at Universal Exhibitions, 1850–1854

145

Pocket Watch of Christian IX, King of Denmark Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève, No. 28 939 Open­faced, stem winding and setting Yellow gold case White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Breguet hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement 19’’’, patek, philippe ebauche, gilt, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, à moustaches, compensation balance with gold timing screws and balance spring with terminal curve 1866–1867 Inv. P­1273 h. 67.2 mm / ∅ 47.9 mm / thickness 13.4 mm Sold on October 16, 1867, to Louise of HesseKassel, Queen of Denmark, as a present for Christian IX, King of Denmark, on their 25 th wedding anniversary. The back is enamelled in translucent blue on an engine-turned ground and set with 45 rose-cut diamonds, composing the initials “L C” (for Louise and Christian); entwined with a painted on enamel red-edged white ribbon, bearing the dates 1842 and 1867, the whole surmounted by six stars. The cuvette bears the Queen’s portrait in a sandfinished surround, painted on enamel by CharlesLouis-François Glardon.

P O C K E T WAT C H E S W I T H O U T H O R O L O G I C A L C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Pocket Watch of Victor-Emmanuel II of Savoy, King of Sardinia and Italy Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève, No. 43 993 Open­faced, stem winding and setting, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Rose gold case White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals Blued steel Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement 19’’’, patek, philippe ebauche, gilt, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, à moustaches, compensation balance with gold timing screws and flat balance spring 1874 Inv. P­1648 h. 69.9 mm / ∅ 48.9 mm / thickness 16 mm; accompanied by a silk and velvet box bearing the monogramme of king Victor-emmanuel ii The back is enamelled with the monogramme of Victor-Emmanuel II of Savoy surmounted by a royal crown; the bezels and band are chased. This watch is from a series of two pieces, No. 43 993 and No. 43 994. .

Ti m e p i e c e s f o r R o y a l t y , 1 8 6 6 –19 0 1

159

pocket watches with horological complications

Horological complications have always held a great fascination. The types of complications have varied over time; in today’s world, dominated by science and technology, the exact measurement of time is crucial while in the past it was more important to determine the dates of the moveable feasts and to follow the trajectories of the stars. Horological complications, an essential part of the art of watchmaking, are of particular importance for Patek Philippe. Any addition to the basic indications – hours, minutes, and seconds – is considered a complication. These supplementary functions may require one or more additional hands to indicate other time zones or the astrological events that mark time divisions: day, date, month, leap year, and lunar cycle. They may indicate time by repeating mechanisms sounding the hours, quarters, minutes, grande and petite sonnerie, or by the precise measurement of small intervals of time. Several important events punctuate the history of the pocket watch with complications, many of them due to horologists Abraham Louis Breguet and Ami LeCoultre. Breguet’s  “Marie Antoinette” watch – ordered in 1783 but not completed until 1827, over thirty years after the Queen’s death – possessed all the complications then possible. The so-called “Merveilleuse” watch made by LeCoultre, a watchmaker from Le Brassus in the vallée de Joux, won a prize at the 1878 Paris International Exhibition; it long remained a reference in the world of horology. The Universal Exhibitions held throughout the second half of the 19th century encouraged watchmakers to rival with one another to create pieces with ever greater complications. These events were instrumental in spreading Patek Philippe’s fame and renown. The first of these exhibitions was held in London in 1851. There the manufacture attracted the attention of connoisseurs, including Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, and was awarded a gold medal. The exhibition was a resounding success for the firm, despite the disappointment suffered when watchmaker Richard Dent, who had initially assured Antoine Norbert de Patek that he would purchase all the watches displayed, finally acquired only thirty pieces. In his autobiography, conserved in the manufacture’s archives, Philippe remarked: “this remained, nevertheless, a handsome transaction”. Patek Philippe participated actively in the stimlulating environment of the International Exhibitions, presenting watches whose functions would become the standard for complicated watches of the early 20th century: repeating, perpetual calendars and split-seconds chronographs. Taking up the challenge, on occasion the company anticipated clients’ requests, devising and constructing exceptional pieces that required years of interdisciplinary research into the fields of astronomy, mathematics, and precision mechanics.

R epeatin g , 1839 –192 6

Repeating watches strike the hour on demand, by a pusher or a bolt. This fascinating function, one of the most difficult complications to execute, is among the greatest horological challenges. Repeating watches were developed in the late 17th century. Around 1680, English horologist Daniel Quare invented a mechanism striking the hours and quarters. The invention of a minute-striking mechanism is attributed to Englishman Thomas Mudge, around 1750. In the late 18th century, Abraham Louis Breguet replaced bells with gongs – hardened steel wires that are coiled inside of the case so as to take up very little space. There are several types of striking watches, ranging from quarter to minute repeaters: – Quarter repeating: strikes the hour with a low tone and each quarter with two tones, one low and the other high

The minute repeating mechanism, the most complicated of all repeating mechanisms, generally has two gongs: a low one for the hours and a higher one for the minutes. The quarter hours are indicated by a succession of high and low tones. The mechanism is activated by a bolt, pusher, or slide. Minute Repeating by a Pusher For their watches with minute repeating by a pusher – i.e. watches whose mechanism is activated by depressing a pushpiece on the winding crown – Patek Philippe used three different ebauches: – 17’’’ open-faced, made by Victorin Piguet & Cie; – 18’’’ hunter case, made by Victorin Piguet & Cie; – 19’’’ open-faced, made by J. Aubert according to Swiss patent No. 13 536, filed by John W. Meylan, Le Sentier, registered on December 30, 1896; and probably 17’’’ (to 19/21/22’’’), made by Louis Elisée Piguet.

– Half-quarter repeating: strikes the hour and the first or second half of the quarter hour – Five-minute repeating: strikes the hours, the quarters, and the number of five-minute periods since the hour – Minute repeating: strikes the hours, the quarters and the minutes since the quarter hour

187

Ten-Minute and Minute Repeating Pocket Watch Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève Open­faced, stem winding and setting, with the following complication: – ten-minute and minute repeating on two gongs (activated by a slide on the band) Yellow gold case, No. 248 201 White enamel dial, painted upright Breguet numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand

Movement No. 137 701, 18’’’, Victorin Piguet & Cie ebauche, rhodium-plated, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, compensation balance and Breguet balance spring 1906–1907 Inv. P­1140 h. 67.4 mm / ∅ 48.5 mm / thickness 10.7 mm Minute repeating watches generally strike the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. The present watch is unusual in that it strikes the hours, ten minutes, and minutes. For example, at 4:56, the watch strikes four times for the hour, five times for each ten-minute unit, and six times for the minutes. This appears to be the only movement of its kind produced by Patek Philippe.

P O C K E T WAT C H E S W I T H H O R O L O G I C A L C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Pocket Watch with Minute Repeating by a Pusher and Differential Winding Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève hunter case, stem winding and setting, with the following complications: – Minute repeating by a pusher, on two gongs (activated by the rectangular pusher on the band between 1 and 2 o’clock) – twin barrel with differential winding Rose gold case, No. 215 837 White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Rose gold Poire hands; rose gold counterpoised seconds hand

Repeating, 1839 –1926

Movement No. 97 537, 18’’’, Victorin Piguet & Cie ebauche, rhodium-plated, two barrels, two wheel trains, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, compensation balance and Breguet balance spring 1895–1896 Inv. P­1159 h. 69.5 mm / ∅ 49.2 mm / thickness 17 mm René Lalique, master artist and jeweller of the Art Nouveau period, created this watch with chased and enamelled front and back featuring rhinoceros beetles and trumpet flower motifs. Another pocket watch, today in a private collection, was similarly decorated by Lalique.

251

Perpetual Calendar Pocket Watch Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève, No. 25 308 Open­faced, stem winding and setting by a pusher, with the following complications: – instantaneous perpetual calendar – Retrograde date (semi­circular graduation with central hand) – Day of the week (aperture at 6 o’clock; in Spanish) – Month (subsidiary dial between 7 and 8 o’clock; in Spanish) – Moon phases (opening at 12 o’clock) Yellow gold case; reeded bezels, glazed back White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial between 4 and 5 o’clock Blued steel Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand

P O C K E T WAT C H E S W I T H H O R O L O G I C A L C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Movement 19’’’, ebauche Nicole & Audemars, nickeled, gold wheel train, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, compensation balance and Breguet balance spring 1864–1865 Inv. P­1281 h. 72.7 mm / ∅ 49.6 mm / thickness 17.1 mm Delivered on March 24, 1865, to F. de la Peña, watchmaker to the queen and supplier to the court, Madrid. The cuvette is engine-turned and engraved with the coat of arms of the alliance of Antoine Marie Philippe Louis d’Orléans, Duke of Montpensier, Infante of Spain and Luisa Fernanda de Bourbon, Infanta of Spain, surmounted by a royal crown. The perpetual calendar mechanism, made by Nicole & Audemars in the vallée de Joux, is constructed as an integral part of the pillar plate, rather than on an additional steel plate, as is generally the case.

Perpetual Calendar Pocket Watch Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève, No. 27 096 half hunter case, stem winding and setting, with the following complications: – instantaneous perpetual calendar – Date (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock) – Day of the week (subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock; in French) – Month (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock; in French) – Moon phases (aperture at 12 o’clock)

Sold on November 29, 1868, to Philippe de Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, Prince of Belgium and Count of Flanders. The back is enamelled with his initials surmounted by a royal crown. The cuvette bears the portrait of his wife Marie, Princess of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen, painted on enamel by Charles-Louis-François Glardon.

Yellow gold case White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds at 9 o’clock Blued steel Poire hands; gold counterpoised seconds hand Movement 19’’’, D. L. Golay ebauche, nickeled, gold wheel train, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, compensation balance and Breguet balance spring 1866–1868 Inv. P­1532 h. 72.4 mm / ∅ 51.7 mm / thickness 16.7 mm

Calendar Watches, 1868 –1981

275

Pocket Watch with Chronograph Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève hunter case, stem winding and setting, with the following complication: – 1/5 second chronograph (activated by the rectangular pusher on the band) Rose gold case, No. 219 637 white enamel dial, painted Dauphine numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Rose gold Louis XV hands; rose gold counterpoised seconds hand Movement No. 94 900, 19’’’, Ambroise Duret ebauche, rhodium-plated, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, à moustaches, compensation balance with gold timing screws and balance spring with terminal curve 1891–1897 Inv. P­1361 h. 73 mm / ∅ 51.3 mm / thickness 14.3 mm Sold to Ferdinand I, Prince of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, Duke of Saxony, Prince of Bulgaria and Tsar of the Bulgarians on March 10, 1898. The front cover is engraved with his initials surmounted by a prince’s crown; the back cover bears his coat of arms and a motto in Cyrillic.

P O C K E T WAT C H E S W I T H H O R O L O G I C A L C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Pocket Watch with Chronograph and 24-Hour Dial Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève Open­faced, stem winding and setting, with the following complication: – 1/5 second chronograph (activated by the pusher on the winding crown); bolt locking the chronograph functions (slide between 1 and 2 o’clock) Oxidised silver case, No. 219 822; rose gold hinges, pendant neck, lips, bolt, crown and bow white enamel dial with double numbering: painted black Roman numerals for the diurnal hours, painted red Dauphine numerals in gilt frames for the nocturnal hours, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement No. 97 562, 19’’’, Ambroise Duret ebauche, rhodium-plated, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, à moustaches, compensation balance with gold timing screws and balance spring with terminal curve 1895–1896 Inv. P­1512 h. 75.7 mm / ∅ 52.8 mm / thickness 17 mm The oxidation of the case is achieved by applying a sulfur-based solution that causes a chemical reaction, creating a layer of black-coloured silver sulfide.

Chronographs, 1870 –1967

299

Minute Repeating Pocket Watch with Chronograph Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève hunter case, stem winding and setting, with the following complications: – Minute repeating on two gongs (activated by a slide on the band to the right of the pendant) – 1/5 second chronograph (activated by the rectangular pusher on the band at 12 o’clock) Rose gold case, No. 271 641 White enamel dial, painted upright Breguet numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Rose gold Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand

P O C K E T WAT C H E S W I T H H O R O L O G I C A L C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Movement No. 157 328, 19’’’, Victorin Piguet & Cie ebauche, rhodium-plated, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, compensation balance with gold timing screws and balance spring with terminal curve 1911–1912 Inv. P­1278 h. 78.6 mm / ∅ 56.2 mm / thickness 16.2 mm The back and band are matted; the front cover bears a lion surrounded by foliage, chased in high relief.

Minute Repeating Pocket Watch with Chronograph and 30-Minute Register Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève Open­faced, stem winding and setting, with the following complications: – Minute repeating on two gongs (activated by a slide on the band to the left of the pendant) – 1/5 second chronograph (activated by the pusher on the winding crown); bolt locking the chronograph functions (slide between 11 and 12 o’clock) – Instantaneous 30­minute register (subsidiary dial at 12 o’clock) Yellow gold case, No. 405 926; invisible hinge white enamel dial, painted Dauphine numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement No. 174 143, 18’’’, Victorin Piguet & Cie ebauche, rhodium-plated, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, compensation balance with gold timing screws and balance spring with terminal curve, eight adjustments 1913–1920 Inv. P­1597 h. 69.4 mm / ∅ 49.5 mm / thickness 14.6 mm

Double Complication, 1877–1993

357

Minute Repeating Pocket Watch with Split-Seconds Chronograph and 30-Minute Register Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève Open­faced, stem winding and setting, with the following complications: – Minute repeating on two gongs (activated by a slide on the band to the left of the pendant) – 1/5 second chronograph (activated by the pusher on the winding crown); bolt locking the chronograph functions (slide between 11 and 12 o’clock) – Split seconds (activated by the pusher on the band between 10 and 11 o’clock) – Instantaneous 30­minute register (subsidiary dial at 12 o’clock) Yellow gold case, No. 400 194 White enamel dial, painted upright Breguet numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Yellow gold Louis XV hands; yellow gold counterpoised seconds hand Movement No. 156 757, 18’’’, Victorin Piguet & Cie ebauche, ¼ plate with offset centre wheel and splitseconds mechanism on the dial side of the plate, rhodium-plated, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, compensation balance with gold timing screws and balance spring with terminal curve, eight adjustments 1910–1914 Inv. P­316 h. 69.8 mm / ∅ 50.5 mm / thickness 15.8 mm

Double Complication, 1877–1993

367

Minute Repeating Pocket Watch with Split-Seconds Chronograph and 30-Minute Register Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève hunter case, stem winding and setting, with the following complications: – Minute repeating on two gongs (activated by a slide on the band to the right of the pendant) – 1/5 second chronograph (activated by the pusher on the band at 12 o’clock) – Split seconds (activated by the pusher on the band between 1 and 2 o’clock) – Instantaneous 30­minute register (subsidiary dial at 12 o’clock) Yellow gold case, No. 410 616 White enamel dial, painted upright Breguet numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Breguet hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement No. 197 604, 18’’’, Victorin Piguet & Cie ebauche, ¼ plate with offset centre wheel and splitseconds mechanism on the dial side of the plate, rhodium-plated, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, compensation balance with gold timing screws and balance spring with terminal curve 1921–1925 Inv. P­361 h. 73.1 mm / ∅ 52.3 mm / thickness 13.5 mm

P O C K E T WAT C H E S W I T H H O R O L O G I C A L C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Half-Quarter Repeating Pocket Watch with Perpetual Calendar Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève, No. 27 053 half hunter case, stem winding and setting, with the following complications: – Half­quarter repeating on two gongs (activated by a slide on the band to the right of the pendant) – Instantaneous perpetual calendar – Date (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock; gold hand) – Day of the week (subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock; in French) – Month (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock; in French) – Moon phases (aperture at 12 o’clock) additional mechanical complication: – Metallic centigrade thermometer (semi­circular graduation at 12 o’clock) Yellow gold case; engraved enamelled Roman numerals on the cover White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement 19’’’, D. L. Golay ebauche, gilt, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, compensation balance and Breguet balance spring

The back is enamelled with the initials of George Gregor Cantacuzene, Prince of Moldavia and Valachia and President of the Council of Romania, surmounted by an imperial crown; Cantacuzene purchased the watch on January 9, 1869. The thermometer is considered a mechanical complication rather than a horological complication. The metallic thermometer for pocket watches was invented by Louis Urbain Jürgensen around 1800. It appears that Patek Philippe produced only six watches with this particular type of horological complications: – No. 27 037; sold on November 20, 1866. – No. 27 053; the above watch. – No. 27 081; sold on May 16, 1867, to Nawab Diler Jung Bahadoor. – No. 27 173; sold on April 20, 1868, to the Prince de Polignac, Paris. – No. 27 206; sold on May 21, 1869 (the thermometer appears to have been removed). – No. 27 219; delivered on August 29, 1868, to watchmaker Paul Buhré, for the Russian market (made without thermometer).

1866–1868 Inv. P­600 h. 73.9 mm / ∅ 52.3 mm / thickness 16.5 mm

P O C K E T WAT C H E S W I T H H O R O L O G I C A L C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Five-Minute Repeating Pocket Watch with Perpetual Calendar Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève, No. 47 572 Open­faced, stem winding and setting, with the following complications: – Five­minute repeating on two gongs (activated by a slide on the band to the right of the pendant) – Instantaneous perpetual calendar – Date (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock; gold hand) – Day of the week (subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock; in French) – Month (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock; in French) – Age and phases of the moon (subsidiary dial with aperture at 12 o’clock, graduated from 0 to 29 ½) Yellow gold case White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement 19’’’, D. L. Golay ebauche, gilt, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, compensation balance and Breguet balance spring 1873–1875 Inv. P­366 h. 74.9 mm / ∅ 52.3 mm / thickness 16 mm

Double Complication, 1877–1993

375

Minute Repeating Pocket Watch with Perpetual Calendar Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève, No. 65 030 hunter case, stem winding and setting, with the following complications: – Minute repeating on two gongs (activated by a slide on the band to the right of the pendant) – Instantaneous perpetual calendar – Date (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock; gold hand) – Day of the week (subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock; in French) – Month (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock; in French) – Age and phases of the moon (subsidiary dial with aperture at 12 o’clock, graduated from 0 to 29 ½) Rose gold case White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement 19’’’, Piguet Frères ebauche, nickeled, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, compensation balance and Breguet balance spring 1881–1886 Inv. P­560 h. 79.4 mm / ∅ 55.7 mm / thickness 18.2 mm The front cover is engraved with initials surmounted by a crown. The cuvette is enamelled with a motto and a coat of arms, surmounted by a knight’s helmet and a crown.

P O C K E T WAT C H E S W I T H H O R O L O G I C A L C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Double Complication, 1877–1993

377

Minute Repeating Pocket Watch with Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève hunter case, stem winding and setting, with the following complications: – Minute repeating on two gongs (activated by a slide on the band to the right of the pendant) – 1/5 second chronograph (activated by the rectangular pusher on the band at 12 o’clock) – Instantaneous perpetual calendar – Date (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock) – Day of the week (subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock; in French) – Month (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock; in French) – Age and phases of the moon (subsidiary dial with aperture at 12 o’clock, graduated from 0 to 29 ½) Rose gold case No. 226 407 white enamel dial, painted Dauphine numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Rose gold Louis XV hands; rose gold counterpoised seconds hand Movement No. 111 543, 19’’’, Victorin Piguet & Cie ebauche, rhodium-plated, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, compensation balance and Breguet balance spring 1899–1901 Inv. P­1225 h. 84.8 mm / ∅ 60 mm / thickness 16.9 mm The front cover is engraved and enamelled with Prince Wladimir Nikolaevich Orloff’s coat of arms surmounted by a crown. The back cover is engraved and enamelled with his initials and a crown.

P O C K E T WAT C H E S W I T H H O R O L O G I C A L C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Tr i p l e C o m p l i c a t i o n , 1 8 6 4 – 1 9 2 0

401

Five-Minute Repeating 24-Hour Dial Pocket Watch with 24-Hour and Quarter-Hour Striking, Chronograph, and Perpetual Calendar with Leap Year Indication Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève hunter case, stem winding and setting, with the following complications: – Five-minute and quarter repeating on two gongs (activated by a slide on the band to the left of the pendant) – Chronograph (activated by the pusher on the winding crown), bolt locking the chronograph functions (slide at 23 o’clock) – Perpetual calendar – Date (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock) – Day of the week (subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock; in French) – Month (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock; in French) – Age and phases of the moon (subsidiary dial with aperture at 12 o’clock, graduated from 0 to 29 ½) Rose gold case, No. 212 850 White enamel 24­hour dial, graduated from 1 to 24 with black and red painted arabic numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock

P O C K E T WAT C H E S W I T H H O R O L O G I C A L C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Blued steel Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement No. 97 443, 22’’’, rhodium­plated, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, compensation balance and Breguet balance spring 1891–1893 Inv. P­1707 h. 84 mm / ∅ 60.1 mm / thickness 18.8 mm The movement of this watch is specially constructed for a 24-hour indication. When the repeating mechanism is activated, it strikes the 24 hours, from 1 to 24, with 24 notes at midnight. The perpetual calendar mechanism takes into account the leap years, although they are not indicated on the dial.

Tr i p l e C o m p l i c a t i o n w i t h A d d i t i o n a l C o m p l i c a t i o n s , 1 8 7 4 – 1 9 3 1

411

Grand Complication Pocket Watch, with Minute Repeating, Split-Seconds Chronograph, Perpetual Calendar and Retrograde Date Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève Open­faced, stem winding and setting, with the following complications: – Minute repeating on two gongs (activated by a slide on the band to the left of the pendant) – 1/5 second chronograph (activated by the pusher on the winding crown); bolt locking the chronograph functions (slide at 11 o’clock) – Split seconds (activated by the rectangular pusher on the band between 10 and 11 o’clock) – Instantaneous perpetual calendar – Retrograde date (semi­circular graduation at 6 o’clock) – Day of the week (subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock; in English) – Month (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock; in English) – Age and phases of the moon (subsidiary dial with aperture at 12 o’clock, graduated from 0 to 29 ½)

White enamel dial, painted upright Breguet numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement No. 156 723, 18’’’, Victorin Piguet & Cie ebauche, rhodium-plated, “special” quality, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, compensation balance and Breguet balance spring, eight adjustments 1910 Inv. P­604 h. 69.8 mm / ∅ 49.7 mm / thickness 15.2 mm This appears to be the only watch produced by Patek Philippe with these complications, particularly the retrograde date.

Yellow gold case, No. 262 277

P O C K E T WAT C H E S W I T H H O R O L O G I C A L C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Double-Dialled Grand Complication Pocket Watch, with Minute Repeating, Split-Seconds Chronograph, Perpetual Calendar and 30-Minute Register Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève Double-dialled, open-faced, stem winding and setting, with the following complications: The first dial indicates: – 1/5 second chronograph (activated by the pusher on the winding crown); bolt locking the chronograph functions (slide at 11 o’clock) – Split seconds (activated by the rectangular pusher on the band between 10 and 11 o’clock) – 30­minute register (subsidiary dial at 12 o’clock) the second dial indicates: – Instantaneous perpetual calendar – Date (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock) – Day of the week (subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock; in English) – Month (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock; in English) – Age and phases of the moon (subsidiary dial with aperture at 12 o’clock, graduated from 0 to 29 ½) additional horological complication: – Minute repeating on two gongs (activated by a slide on the band to the left of the pendant) Yellow gold case, No. 282 236; engine­turned band and bezel

Grand Complication, 1895 –1970

First dial: white enamel, painted upright Breguet numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand second dial: white enamel Blued steel hands Movement No. 174 480, 19’’’, Victorin Piguet & Cie ebauche, rhodium-plated, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, compensation balance and Breguet balance spring 1914–1915 Inv. P­1529 h. 76.5 mm / ∅ 53.8 mm / thickness 18 mm This watch is accompanied by two additional crystals and two extra springs; one for the going train and one for the striking train. This appears to be the only double-dialled watch produced by Patek Philippe with these particular horological complications.

423

Minute Repeating Pocket Watch with Petite Sonnerie and Westminster Chime on Five Bells Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève hunter case, stem winding and setting, with the following complications: – Westminster chime minute repeating on five bells (activated by a slide on the band to the right of the pendant, between 6 and 7 o’clock) – Petite sonnerie (“strike/silence” lever between 11 and 12 o’clock) – Twin barrel with differential winding Yellow gold case, No. 257 696 silver dial, applied gold upright stylised numerals, painted decorative motifs; the centre pierced, engraved and gilt, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Louis XV hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement No. 138 285, 22 ½ ’’’, rhodium­plated, two barrels and two wheel trains, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, compensation balance and Breguet balance spring 1909–1910

Sold on March 24, 1910, to P. G. de Cervantes, Spain, probably for Don Carlos Rincón Gallardo y Romero de Terreros, Marquis of Guadalupe, 3 rd Duke of Regla and Marquis of Villahermosa de Alfaro. The front cover bears the enamelled coat of arms of the Dukes of Regla; the back cover bears the coat of arms and motto of the Counts of Regla, painted on enamel by François Mauris. Generally minute repeating watches strike the hours, quarters and minutes on demand; this watch is unusual in that it strikes the quarters, minutes, and then the hours. The quarter hours are indicated by the tune played by the bells of Westminster Abbey in London. Groups of four notes are sounded on four bells, each one playing a different note (A, G, F, C). The minutes are struck on one of the four bells; in this case the second bell, G. The hours are then struck on a fifth bell, which is higher and louder (the note D, an octave higher).

Inv. P­534 h. 93 mm / ∅ 65.9 mm / thickness 20.9 mm

Each group of four notes is composed of three short tones (quarter notes), followed by a longer note (a half note); this rhythm differentiates between the successive quarter hours: – The first quarter is sounded by four notes (A, G, F, C). – The second quarter by eight notes (F, A, G, C; F, G, A, F). – The third quarter by twelve notes (A, F, G, C; C, G, A, F; A, G, F, C). – The fourth quarter by sixteen notes (F, A, G, C; F, G, A, F; A, G, F, C; G, C, A, F). When striking on demand, on the hour and during the minute that follows, the watch strikes the four quarters (sixteen notes) and then the hours. At other times, the watch strikes the quarter hours, the minutes, and the hours. On the hour, when the lever is placed on “strike” (petite sonnerie mode), the watch automatically strikes the four quarters (sixteen notes), then the hours. After the passage of the first quarter, the half hour, and the third quarter, the watch automatically sounds the elapsed quarter hours as follows: – For the first quarter, four notes. – For the second quarter, eight notes. – For the third quarter, twelve notes. This watch’s grande and petite sonnerie mechanism was transformed to petite sonnerie by an isolating device. This transformation was probably made at the client’s request

P O C K E T WAT C H E S W I T H H O R O L O G I C A L C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Grande and Petite Sonnerie, 1895 –1965

449

Singing Bird Box with Watch Patek, Philippe & Cie, Genève, No. 28 389

Singing bird movement (L. 84 mm / width 44 mm) attributed to Charles­Abraham II Bruguier, No. 295, gilt, with fusee and a set of eight cams

singing bird activated on demand, watch key-wound and set

1866

partially gilt silver case

L. 102.1 mm / width 64.3 mm / depth 37.7 mm

White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals Blued steel Poire hands Rectangular movement (L. 62 mm / width 19.5 mm), patek philippe ebauche, gilt, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, à moustaches, compensation balance with gold timing screws and flat balance spring

Inv. P­651

The singing bird is activated on demand by a lever on the right side of the box. The box is entirely engraved and decorated with blue and black champlevé motifs. The lid’s medallion was removed at some point, probably due to damage. illustration of the box, above, 140%

P O C K E T WAT C H E S W I T H H O R O L O G I C A L C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Singing Birds, 1865 –1926

463

patek philippe watches Volume ii

Vol ume i i Chronometers

9

Pocket and Deck Chronometers, Pivoted Detent and Spring Detent Escapement, 1850 –1994

11

Pocket and Deck Chronometers, Lever Escapement, 1872 – 1959

21

Pocket and Deck Chronometers, Pivoted Detent, Spring Detent, and Lever Escapement, Tourbillon Regulator and Karussel, 1892 – 1983

51

Pocket Chronometers, Pivoted Detent, Spring Detent, and Lever Escapement, with Horological Complications, 1845 – 1997

63

Marine Chronometer, Precision Clocks and Wrist Chronometers, Spring Detent and Lever Escapement, Lever Escapement and Tourbillon, 1895 – 1987

71

Art Nouveau and Art Deco

85

Watches made for Gondolo & Labouriau

121

Watches made for James Ward Packard and Henry Graves, Jr.

141

Watches made for James Ward Packard, 1918 – 1927

143

Watches made for Henry Graves, Jr., 1919 – 1948

153

Wristwatches without Complications

175

Wristwatches with Complications

255

Wrist Chronographs, 1924 – 1966

257

Split-Seconds Wrist Chronographs, 1923 – 1970

273

Calendar Wristwatches, 1926 – 2002

279

Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar Wristwatches, 1942 – 1989

301

Repeating Wristwatches, 1901 – 2000

313

5

The Calatrava Cross, Emblem of Patek Philippe

327

World Time and Jump Hour Watches and Louis Cottier Prototypes

337

Cloisonné Enamel, Painted on Enamel, and Engraved Watches

355

Watches with cloisonné enamel and Painted on enamel Dials, 1940 – 1966

357

Painted on enamel and engraved Pocket Watches, 1955 – 1988

367

Clocks and Dome Clocks

391

Commemorative Watches, Calibre 89 and Star Caliber 2000

413

commemorative Watches

415

calibre 89

427

Star Caliber 2000

435

Glossary

443

Watchmakers in this Catalogue

449

Several Important Exhibitions

453

Works Cited and Reference Books

455

Colophon

458

chronometers

The invention of the balance spring in 1675 greatly improved the regularity of timepieces and made horology a science. Maritime nations were aware of the need for precise and dependable watches in order to determine the position of a ship at sea. Without precise timekeepers, long sea voyages were fraught with danger. After the 1707 shipwreck in the Isles of Scilly, in which an entire fleet of four vessels and the lives of over one thousand four hundred sailors were lost, the British Parliament offered a “Longitude Prize”. Thus, a reward was to be given to anyone who found a dependable and effective method of determining longitude at sea. Many took up the challenge, among them John Harrison (1693 – 1776), John Arnold (1736 – 1799), Thomas Earnshaw (1749 – 1829) and Thomas Mudge (1715 – 1794) in England. Mudge constructed the first watch with a lever escapement, which would later be universally adopted. Frenchman Pierre Le Roy (1717 – 1785), who in 1748 invented the detent escapement used in modern chronometers, and Neuchâtel native Ferdinand Berthoud (1727 – 1807) also carried out research that would contribute to the development of a veritable industry. The timepieces in this chapter are arranged according to type: for example, pocket and deck chronometers and wrist chronometers, as well as by their type of escapement (spring detent escapement, pivoted detent escapement, lever escapement). By the late 18th century, timing contests had begun to be held, in which marine, ship, and pocket chronometers were scientifically examined in specialised laboratories and astronomical observatories. The timepieces were issued a Bulletin de marche (Ratingcertificate) and the most precise among them received prizes and special mentions. These included the “record de pièce” that was awarded to the pieces that obtained the best results ever achieved at the Geneva Observatory. Patek Philippe watches took part in these national and international contests, achieving remarkable results.

Pocket Chronometer with Spring Detent Escapement, Isochronous Helical Balance Spring, Power Reserve, Fusee and Chain Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève, No. 65 852 Open-faced, key winding and setting, with the following complication: – Power reserve indication (sector at 12 o’clock) silver case, yellow gold pendant neck, hinge and lip White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Gold Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement 20’’’, ¾ plate, Piguet Frères ebauche, nickeled, with fusee and chain, 32-hour power reserve, spring detent escapement, cranked compensation balance with gold timing screws, isochronous helical balance spring with terminal curves, diamond endstone, adjusted by master adjuster Alexis Favre (1885) 1884 –1885 Inv. P-1059 H. 81.3 mm / ∅ 55 mm / thickness 17.4 mm

CHRONOMETERS

Delivered on May 29, 1885, to H. Müller & Co., Patek Philippe agents in Shanghai. This watch’s movement was probably made using an ebauche from the Victorin Piguet & Fils workshop, purchased on July 7, 1884. The chronometer was finished on May 27, 1885. It is one of a very few pocket chronometers with fusee and chain ever produced by the company; three are currently known to exist: – No. 3228, with pivoted detent escapement (Inv. P-1332, movement only). – No. 65 852, with spring detent escapement (the above watch). – No. 65 859, with spring detent escapement (Inv. P-1058, p. 69, watch with several horological complications).

Pocket Chronometer with Spring Detent Escapement, Isochronous Helical Balance Spring and Power Reserve Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève hunter case, stem winding and setting, with the following complication: – Power reserve indication (sector at 12 o’clock) Yellow gold case, No. 218 846 White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Gold Poire hands; counterpoised gold seconds hand Movement No. 90 534, 20’’’, Ambroise Duret ebauche, gilt, jewels in gold chatons, spring detent escapement, cranked compensation balance with

Pocket and Deck Chronometers, Pivoted Detent and Spring Detent Escapement, 1850–1994

gold and platinum timing screws, and isochronous palladium helical balance spring with terminal curves 1894 –1897 Inv. P-293 H. 79.3 mm / ∅ 56.2 mm / thickness 18 mm This chronometer was in the collection of actor Michel Simon. The front and back covers are engraved in a vermicelli pattern; the former has a plain circle in its centre.

17

Deck Chronometer with Lever Escapement Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève

Results of 1922 Observatory Trials

Open-faced, stem winding and setting

– – – –

Yellow gold case, No. 411 898 White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement No. 191 390, 22’’’, LeCoultre & Cie and Victorin Piguet & cie ebauche, gilt, “Extra” quality, raised bridge for the centre and third wheels, centre wheel with jewel in gold chaton, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, Guillaume balance and balance spring with terminal curve, diamond endstone, adjusted by master adjuster François Modoux (1922 and 1923) 1919 –1924 Inv. P-1588 H. 83.3 mm / ∅ 60.1 mm / thickness 17.8 mm At the 1922 timing contest of the Geneva Observatory, this chronometer received a “Bulletin de Première Classe” with Honourable mention.

CHRONOMETERS

Mean daily rate +/- 0.15 Mean variation due to a position change +/- 0.97 Compensation error (for 1° centigrade) +/- 0.031 Resumption of the rate + 0.02

At the 1923 timing contest of the Geneva Observatory, this chronometer received a “Bulletin de Première Classe” with First Prize mention. Results of 1923 Observatory Trials – Mean daily rate +/- 0.09 – Mean variation due to a position change +/- 0.48 – Compensation error (for 1° centigrade) +/- 0.017

Jump Hour Deck Chronometer with Lever Escapement and Power Reserve Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève

Results of Observatory Trials

Open-faced, stem winding and setting, jump hours in an aperture at 12 o’clock and central minutes, with the following complication: – Power reserve indication (sector at 12 o’clock)

– Arithmetical sum of the 40 variations of the daily rate 8.72 – Arithmetical sum of the 6 position variations 1.36 – Compensation error (for 1° centigrade) 0.029 – Resumption of the rate - 0.62

Yellow gold case, No. 412 304 Cream-coloured enamel dial, regulator type, painted arabic numerals for the hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock

This appears to be the only jump hour chronometer with power reserve produced by Patek Philippe.

Blued steel Breguet minute hand; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement No. 191 439, 22’’’, LeCoultre & Cie and Victorin Piguet & cie ebauche, rhodium-plated, “Extra” quality, raised bridge for the centre and third wheels, counterpoised straight line lever escapement, Guillaume balance and Breguet balance spring, eight adjustments, adjusted by master adjuster François Modoux (1924, 1925, 1928 and 1930) 1919 –1926 Inv. P-163 H. 81.9 mm / ∅ 59.7 mm / thickness 16.9 mm This chronometer was never sold. At the 1930 timing contest of the Geneva Observatory, this chronometer received a “Bulletin de Première Classe” with Second Prize mention (category A: deck chronometers; size: 50 mm).

Pocket and Deck Chronometers, Lever Escapement, 1872 –1959

47

Quarter Repeating Pocket Chronometer with Pivoted Detent Escapement Patek & cie, Genève, No. 1129 hunter case, key winding and setting, with the following complication: – Quarter repeating on two gongs (activated by the bolt on the pendant) Yellow gold case Blued steel Breguet hands Movement 16’’’, audemars ebauche, gilt, pivoted detent escapement, compensation balance and Breguet balance spring 1845 –1846 Inv. P-1066 H. 62.2 mm / ∅ 44.6 mm / thickness 8.8 mm

CHRONOMETERS

Following servicing in 1996 –1997, the watch is displayed without its dial. The case front and back are engraved with foliage and vertical stripes. Only six Patek Philippe quarter repeating chronometers are known: – No. 1129, with pivoted detent escapement: the above watch. – No. 2681, with spring detent escapement (Inv. P-1081, p. 67). – No. 3228, with pivoted detent escapement (Inv. P-1332, movement only, with fusee and chain). – No. 6021, with pivoted detent escapement. – No. 6022, with pivoted detent escapement (Inv. P-1213, p. 65). – No. 8045 (formerly No. 3220), with spring detent escapement (Inv. P-1631, p. 68).

Quarter Repeating Pocket Chronometer with Pivoted Detent Escapement Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève, No. 6022 Open-faced, stem winding and setting, with the following complication: – Quarter repeating on two gongs (activated by the slide on the band to the left of the pendant) Yellow gold case White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 5 o’clock Blued steel Breguet hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement 20’’’, D. l. Golay ebauche, gilt, pivoted detent escapement, compensation balance and Breguet balance spring

Only six Patek Philippe quarter repeating chronometers are known: – No. 1129, with pivoted detent escapement (Inv. P-1066, p. 64). – No. 2681, with spring detent escapement (Inv. P-1081, p. 67). – No. 3228, with pivoted detent escapement (Inv. P-1332, movement only, with fusee and chain). – No. 6021, with pivoted detent escapement. – No. 6022, with pivoted detent escapement: the above watch. – No. 8045 (formerly No. 3220), with spring detent escapement (Inv. P-1631, p. 68).

1857 –1858 Inv. P-1213 H. 72.9 mm / ∅ 51 mm / thickness 14 mm

Pocket Chronometers, Pivoted Detent, Spring Detent, and Lever Escapement, with Horological Complications, 1845 –1997

65

Marine Chronometer with Spring Detent Escapement Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève key winding and setting, with the following complication: – 56-hour power reserve indication (sector at 12 o’clock) Rectangular three-body mahogany box; hinges, brass fittings and carrying handles; two ivory plaques on the front; glazed upper portion; brass gimbals and bowl

Movement 36’’’, ebauche No. 6567, probably by Victor kullberg, gilt, fusee and chain and auxiliary spring, spring detent escapement, compensation balance with brass timing screws and brass and steel affix bars, isochronous helical balance spring with terminal curves, diamond endstone 1895 –1900 Inv. Pe -18

silvered metal dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock

H. 180 mm / width 174 mm / depth 174 mm; bezel ∅ 123.5 mm; accompanied by a brass Breguet tipsy key

Blued steel Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand

This chronometer was never sold. Patek Philippe appears to have made only two marine chronometers; the other known chronometer, No. 198 064, dates from 1926 –1928. Delivered on October 30, 1928, to Tiffany & Co., New York, this chronometer was subsequently sold to Henry Graves Jr. illustration 60%

CHRONOMETERS

M a r i n e C h r o n o m e t e r, P r e c i s i o n C l o c k s a n d W r i s t C h r o n o m e t e r s , S p r i n g D e t e n t a n d L e v e r E s c a p e m e n t , L e v e r E s c a p e m e n t a n d To u r b i l l o n , 1 8 9 5 – 1 9 8 7

73

Dress Watch

Dress Watch

Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève

Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève

Open-faced, stem winding

Open-faced, stem winding

Gold case, No. 414 227

Yellow gold case, No. 414 226

White enamel dial, applied gold upright cubiste numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock

White enamel dial, applied gold upright Dauphine numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock

Gold Poire hands; gold seconds hand

Gold Breguet hands; gold seconds hand

Movement No. 817 801, 17’’’, lever escapement

Movement No. 817 800, 17’’’, lever escapement

1928

1928

Inv. P-261

Inv. P-285

H. 54.2 mm / ∅ 43.6 mm / thickness 7.2 mm

H. 54.3 mm / ∅ 43.6 mm / thickness 6.8 mm

The enamelled back features a chased and pounced flower and garland motif surrounded by a three-lobed frame, with flux finishing.

The enamelled flower and garland motif is chased and pounced, with flux finishing.

ART NOUVEAU AND ART DECO

Dress Watch

Dress Watch

Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève

Patek Philippe, Genève

Open-faced, stem winding

Open-faced, stem winding and setting

Yellow gold case, No. 408 986

Yellow gold case, No. 10 026

Matte champagne dial, painted upright Dauphine numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock

silvered dial, applied gold baton indexes, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock

Blued steel Breguet hands; blued steel seconds hand

Gold Feuille hands; gold seconds hand

Movement No. 803 142, 17’’’, lever escapement

Movement No. 860 163, calibre 17-140, straight line lever escapement

1928 Inv. P-1377

1937

H. 54.4 mm / ∅ 43.8 mm / thickness 9.6 mm

Inv. P-105

The case, with chased and pounced flowers and scrolling over a dark blue enamel ground, with flux finishing.

This watch was never sold.

1889 –1937

H. 54 mm / ∅ 43.5 mm / thickness 7.1 mm

The case, made by Niton, features pounced and chased enamelled roses and foliage, with a griffon within a cartouche, and flux finishing.

115

Watches made for Gondolo & labouriau

From 1902 to the 1930s Patek Philippe produced watches especially for Gondolo & Labouriau of Rio de Janeiro. These Brazilian retailers had represented Patek Philippe since at least 1872. On March 10, 1902, the trade name Chronometro Gondolo was registered in Switzerland. These watches possess certain distinguishing characteristics. The cases are usually of the “bassine” type, open-faced, and are generally made of rose gold, though a few were in yellow gold, silver, or, more rarely, nielloed silver. Various types of dials and hands were used. The diameter of the pocket watches ranges from 32 to 57 mm. These watches have movements from 10’’’ to 22’’’, i.e. from 22.5 to approximately 50 mm. Chronometro Gondolo watches feature the following technical characteristics: – A movement with crown; the ratchet wheels of the mainspring barrel arbor have wolf tooth winding; the mainspring barrel arbor has a square indentation for releasing the barrel spring. – A 9-carat gold wheel train. – A straight line lever escapement à moustaches with a bimetallic compensation balance and a Breguet balance spring. – A minimum of 18 jewels (18, 19, 20 or 21). – Fine fast/slow adjustment by an offset snail cam (an improvement of French patent No. 142 376, registered on April 16, 1881, by Jean Adrien Philippe). Certain models have a centre seconds hand or a chronograph mechanism. These were the only watches with gold wheel trains that Patek Philippe produced in the 20th century. In the 1920s, round, square, rectangular, “tonneau” or “coussin”-shaped wristwatches were made. Patek Philippe also created Art Deco style pocket watches for Gondolo & Labouriau; these were very flat and “carrée galbée” in shape (square with rounded corners). The Brazilian firm promoted a lottery system in its buyers’ clubs, to encourage the sale of Chronometro Gondolo watches. The members of these clubs, all fervent watch lovers, could take part in weekly lotteries for a modest sum. Each participant was sure to eventually acquire a Chronometro Gondolo (the large gold model without complications) for a reasonable price. Around 1924, the Gondolo & Labouriau firm took the name Relojoaria Gondolo. For over a quarter century, the Brazilian retailer absorbed nearly a third of Patek Philippe’s production.

Chronometro Gondolo Pocket Watch Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève half hunter case, stem winding and setting Rose gold case, No. 235 075, with painted Roman numerals White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Gold Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand

The wolf tooth wheel train and the square indentation of the barrel arbor

Movement No. 121 409, 19’’’, Gondolo type 1904 Inv. P-690 H. 71.1 mm / ∅ 50.7 mm / thickness 12.2 mm

the 9k gold wheel train

the lever escapement à moustaches

WAT C H E S M A D E F O R G O N D O L O & L A B O U R I A U

Chronometro Gondolo Pocket Watch Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève Open-faced, stem winding and setting Rose gold case, No. 248 981 White enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Gold Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement No. 142 975, 21’’’, Gondolo type 1907 Inv. P-210 H. 79.2 mm / ∅ 56 mm / thickness 15.1 mm Delivered on October 15, 1907, to Gondolo & Labouriau, Rio de Janeiro. The cuvette is engraved with the specifications of the Gondolo & Labouriau firm in Rio de Janeiro, for which this type of movement was specially made as of 1902.

1903 –1928

123

James Ward Packard’s Desk Clock Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève key winding and setting, with the following complications: – Perpetual calendar – Date (outer graduation, central hand) – Day of the week (aperture at 9 o’clock; in English) – Month (aperture at 3 o’clock; in English) – Moon phases (aperture at 6 o’clock) – Leap year cycle (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock) – Power reserve indication (central sector) Silver case, No. 601 324, with yellow gold applied decorative motifs silvered metal dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary hour and minutes dial at 12 o’clock, centre seconds Blued steel hands

Movement No. 197 707, 24’’’, two barrels, eight day power reserve, straight line lever escapement 1922 –1923 Inv. P-140 L. 117.2 mm / width 90 mm / H. of the highest side 62.8 mm Sold on June 7, 1923, to James Ward Packard Accompanied by two keys and two calendar correctors. The clock case is chased and decorated with applied gilt flowers and scrolling acanthus leaves; its base is supported by winged gilt bronze griffons. J. W. Packard’s monogramme, engraved and highlighted in blue enamel, appears underneath the dial in a triangle made of stylised, chased leaves. illustrations of the movements 80%

WAT C H E S M A D E F O R J A M E S WA R D PA C K A R D A N D H E N R Y G R AV E S ,   J R .

illustration 140%

Watches Made for James Ward Packard, 1918 –1927

149

James Ward Packard’s Astronomical Pocket Watch Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève Open-faced, stem winding and setting, with the following complications: – Minute repeating on three gongs – Perpetual calendar – Date (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock) – Day of the week (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock; in English) – Month (subsidiary dial at 12 o’clock; in English) – Age and phases of the moon (subsidiary dial, graduated from 0 to 29 ½, aperture at 12 o’clock) – Time of sunrise in Warren, Ohio (subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock) – Time of sunset in Warren, Ohio (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock) – Running equation of time – Sky chart for the latitude of Warren (on the watch back, under the cover)

silvered dial, Dauphine numerals for the local time, painted upright Breguet numerals for sunrise and sunset, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Poire hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand; gold “sun” hand for the running equation of time Movement No. 198 023, 19’’’, lever escapement 1925 –1927 Inv. P-704 H. 77.9 mm / ∅ 55.4 mm / thickness 21.7 mm Sold on April 6, 1927, to James Ward Packard.

Yellow gold case, No. 411 901

WAT C H E S M A D E F O R J A M E S WA R D PA C K A R D A N D H E N R Y G R AV E S ,   J R .

Watches Made for James Ward Packard, 1918 –1927

151

Henry Graves, Jr’s Grande Complication Pocket Watch Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève Open-faced, stem winding and setting, with the following complications: – Minute repeating on two gongs – Grande sonnerie – Petite sonnerie – Perpetual calendar – Date (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock) – Day of the week (subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock; in English) – Month (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock; in English) – Age and phases of the moon (subsidiary dial, graduated from 0 to 29 ½, aperture at 12 o’clock) – chronograph – split seconds – 60-minute register (subsidiary dial at 12 o’clock, graduated twice from 0 to 30) – twin barrel with differential winding Yellow gold case, No. 407 674 Amber-coloured enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Breguet hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement No. 174 961, 20’’’, lever escapement 1919 –1926 Inv. P-1497 H. 88.8 mm / ∅ 62.3 mm / thickness 21.6 mm Delivered on June 1, 1926, to Tiffany & Co., New York; sold to Henry Graves, Jr.

WAT C H E S M A D E F O R J A M E S WA R D PA C K A R D A N D H E N R Y G R AV E S ,   J R .

W a t c h e s M a d e f o r H e n r y G r a v e s , J r. , 1 9 1 9 – 1 9 4 8

157

Henry Graves, Jr’s Grande and Petite Sonnerie Pocket Watch Patek, Philippe & cie, Genève Open-faced, stem winding and setting, with the following complications: – Minute repeating on three gongs, by a pusher (activated by the pushpiece on the winding crown) – Grande sonnerie – Petite sonnerie – Perpetual calendar – Retrograde date (sector at 12 o’clock) – Day of the week (subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock; in English) – Month (sector at 3 o’clock; in English) – Age and phases of the moon (subsidiary dial, graduated from 0 to 29 ½, aperture at 6 o’clock) – Power reserve indication for the going train (sector at 3 o’clock) – Power reserve indication for the striking train (sector at 9 o’clock) – twin barrel with differential winding

Amber-coloured enamel dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Breguet hands; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand Movement No. 198 052, 21’’’, straight line lever escapement 1926 –1927 Inv. P-1130 H. 83.1 mm / ∅ 60.4 mm / thickness 20.8 mm Delivered on March 5, 1928, to Tiffany & Co., New York; sold to Henry Graves, Jr.

Yellow gold case, No. 412 836

WAT C H E S M A D E F O R J A M E S WA R D PA C K A R D A N D H E N R Y G R AV E S ,   J R .

Preliminary drawing of the watch, signed and approved by Henry Graves

W a t c h e s M a d e f o r H e n r y G r a v e s , J r. , 1 9 1 9 – 1 9 4 8

165

Gentleman’s Wristwatch

Wristwatch

REFERENCE 1450

REFERENCE 1588

Patek Philippe, Genève

Patek Philippe, Genève

Rectangular platinum case, No. 668 137, with horizontal bars and hooded lugs

Faceted rose gold case, No. 661 361, large link rose gold bracelet

silvered dial, baguette and round diamond indexes, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock

silvered dial, applied gold Roman numerals and triangular indexes, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock

Platinum Feuille hands; white gold seconds hand Movement No. 975 097, calibre 9’’’- 90 1953 Inv. P-988 H. 37.9 mm / width 24.7 mm / thickness 10.8 mm

Baton hands; gold seconds hand Movement No. 972 955, calibre 9’’’- 90 1951 Inv. P-1337 H. 38 mm / width 22 mm / thickness 9.5 mm

Gentleman’s Wristwatch Patek Philippe, Genève Gold case, No. 617 861, stepped bezel, gold link bracelet Champagne-coloured dial, applied gold Roman numerals and baton indexes, minute track, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Gold Baton hands; gold seconds hand Movement No. 832 759, calibre 9’’’- 90 1938 Inv. P-1390 H. 30 mm / width 1.21 mm / thickness 8.4 mm

W R I S T WAT C H E S W I T H O U T C O M P L I C AT I O N S , B R O O C H WAT C H , P E N D A N T WAT C H , A N D PA P E R K N I F E WAT C H

Gentleman’s Wristwatch

Wristwatch

Gentleman’s Wristwatch

REFERENCE 3409

REFERENCE 524

REFERENCE 576

Patek Philippe, Genève

Patek Philippe, Genève

Patek Philippe, Genève

Polished and hammered yellow gold case, No. 2 605 027, polished and hammered integral yellow gold bracelet

asymmetrical rose gold case, No. 617 758, curved and stepped bezel

asymmetrical rose gold case, No. 623 694

Polished and hammered gold dial, ruby indexes

Matte silvered dial, applied gold arabic numerals and rectangular indexes, minute track

Gold Baton hands

Gold Baton hands

Gold Feuille hands

Movement No. 977 249, calibre 9’’’- 90, lever escapement, à moustaches, bimetallic balance, flat balance spring

Movement No. 832 729, calibre 9’’’- 90, lever escapement

1958

Inv. P-669

Inv. P-1212 H. 22 mm / width 20 mm / thickness 8.8 mm; total length 195 mm

1889 –1992

1938

Satin-finished silver dial, applied gold baton indexes Movement No. 851 727, calibre 8’’’- 85, round 1941 Inv. P-760 H. 33.6 mm / width 24.5 mm / thickness 10.9 mm

H. 39.8 mm / width 22.9 mm / thickness 10.1 mm

223

Lady’s Ellipse Wristwatch with Matching Earrings REFERENCE 4117/1

Patek Philippe, Genève White gold case, No. 521 002, the bracelet’s diamond-set medallions covered with iridescent butterfly wings and protected by sapphire crystals; matching earrings Dial covered with an iridescent butterfly wing, applied white gold indexes White gold Baton hands Movement No. 1 242 426, calibre 13,5-320 1970 Inv. P-584 H. 29 mm / width 25 mm / thickness 7.2 mm; total length 187.2 mm Earrings: H. 35 mm / width 17 mm

W R I S T WAT C H E S W I T H O U T C O M P L I C AT I O N S , B R O O C H WAT C H , P E N D A N T WAT C H , A N D PA P E R K N I F E WAT C H

Gentleman’s Ellipse Wristwatch

Gentleman’s Ellipse Wristwatch

REFERENCE 3603/1

REFERENCE 3603

Patek Philippe, Genève

Patek Philippe, Genève

White gold case, No. 2 732 589, stepped bezel with rounded corners

Yellow gold case, No. 2 751 124, stepped bezel with rounded corners

Blue gold dial, applied white gold baton indexes, centre seconds, date in an aperture at 6 o’clock

Blue gold dial, applied gold baton indexes, centre seconds, date in an aperture at 6 o’clock

White gold Dauphine hands; white gold centre seconds hand

Gold Dauphine hands; gold centre seconds hand

Movement No. 8264, calibre CEH-Beta 21

1982

1974 Inv. P-585 H. 38.4 mm / width 33.2 mm / thickness 10.7 mm

1889 –1992

Movement No. 8433, calibre CEH-Beta 22 Inv. P-623 H. 37.2 mm / width 33.2 mm / thickness 10.7 mm

249

Ellipse Watch in a Paper Knife

Gentleman’s Ellipse Wristwatch

REFERENCE 913

REFERENCE 3546

Patek Philippe, Genève

Patek Philippe, Genève

Yellow gold case, No. 2 817 783

Yellow gold case, No. 2 738 611

Blue-coloured gold dial, engraved with the Calatrava cross

Blue-coloured gold dial, applied gold baton indexes

Gold Dauphine hands

Movement No. 1 222 874, calibre 23-300

Movement No. 1 507 783, calibre E 27 1986 Inv. P-770 H. 30.8 mm / thickness 5.6 mm; total length 195.9 mm

Gold Baton hands 1985 Inv. P-901 H. 34.1 mm / width 27 mm / thickness 6.1 mm

W R I S T WAT C H E S W I T H O U T C O M P L I C AT I O N S , B R O O C H WAT C H , P E N D A N T WAT C H , A N D PA P E R K N I F E WAT C H

Gentleman’s Nautilus Wristwatch

Gentleman’s Nautilus Wristwatch

REFERENCE 3597/2

REFERENCE 3597

Patek Philippe, Genève

Patek Philippe, Genève

White gold cushion-shaped case, No. 2 741 773, solid white gold integral bracelet

Yellow gold case, No. 2 720 456

Blue metal dial, applied luminous white gold baton indexes, centre seconds, date in an aperture at 3 o’clock luminous white gold Baton hands; white gold centre seconds hand Movement No. 8280, calibre CEH-Beta 22 1974 Inv. P-482

Gilt dial, applied painted indexes, centre seconds, date in an aperture at 3 o’clock Black-accented gold Baton hands; black centre seconds hand Movement No. 8434, calibre CEH-Beta 22 1982 Inv. P-622 H. 41.8 mm / width 43.1 mm / thickness 11.7 mm

H. 41.8 mm / width 43.1 mm / thickness 12.2 mm

1889 –1992

251

Patek Philippe Wrist Chronograph Movements, with and without split seconds a Victorin Piguet ebauche, 13’’’, with register at 12 o’clock (Inv. P-1233, p. 259) B Victorin Piguet ebauche, 13’’’, with register at 3 o’clock (Inv. P-1300, p. 259) c Victorin Piguet ebauche, 13’’’, with register at 12 o’clock (Inv. P-881, p. 260) D Victorin Piguet ebauche, 13’’’, with register at 3 o’clock (Inv. P-992, p. 260) e lecoultre ebauche, 12’’’, with register at 3 o’clock (Inv. P-1469, p. 263) F Valjoux ebauche, calibre 13-130, with register at 3 o’clock (Inv. P-485, p. 268) G Victorin Piguet ebauche, 13’’’, with split seconds and register at 12 o’clock (Inv. P-1149, p. 275) h Victorin Piguet ebauche, 13’’’, with split seconds and register at 3 o’clock (Inv. P-1043, p. 275) I Valjoux ebauche, calibre 13-130 R, with split seconds and register at 3 o’clock (Inv. P-606, p. 308)

illustrations of the movements 150%

W R I S T WAT C H E S W I T H   C O M P L I C AT I O N S

a

B

c

D

e

F

G

h

i

Wrist Chronographs, 1924 –1966

271

Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch REFERENCE 3449

Patek Philippe, Genève Gentleman’s wristwatch with the following complications: – Perpetual calendar with apertures – Date (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock) – Day of the week (aperture at 11 o’clock; in English) – Month (aperture at 1 o’clock; in English) – Moon phases (aperture at 6 o’clock) Yellow gold case, No. 311 262 Silvered satin-finished gold dial, applied gold baton indexes Gold Dauphine hands Movement No. 799 001, calibre 23-300 Q, straight line lever escapement, Gyromax balance and self-compensating Breguet balance spring 1961 –1965 Inv. P-738 H. 44.3 mm / ∅ 37.5 mm / thickness 10.9 mm Delivered on September 15, 1965, to the Henri Stern Watch Agency, New York. Only three examples of this reference were produced. illustrations of the movements 150%

W R I S T WAT C H E S W I T H   C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Self-Winding Perpetual Calendar Wristwatch REFERENCE 3563 QP

Patek Philippe, Genève Gentleman’s self-winding water-resistant wristwatch, back winding and setting, with the following complications: – Perpetual calendar with apertures – Date (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock) – Day of the week (aperture at 11 o’clock; in English) – Month (aperture at 1 o’clock; in English) – Moon phases (aperture at 6 o’clock) – Leap year cycle (aperture between 3 and 4 o’clock; I-II-III-red dot) Yellow gold case, No. 2 718 867 Silvered satin-finished gold dial, applied gold baton indexes, centre seconds luminous gold skeleton Dauphine hands; counterpoised blued steel centre seconds hand Movement No. 1 491 199, calibre 1-350, with 18k gold oscillating weight, straight line lever escapement, Gyromax balance and self-compensating Breguet balance spring 1981 Inv. P-712 H. 43 mm / ∅ 37.5 mm / thickness 10.6 mm This watch is a one-of-a-kind piece specially made in 1981 for Mr. Philippe Stern. illustrations of the movements 150%

Calendar Wristwatches, 1926–2002

299

Wristwatch with Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar REFERENCE 1527

Patek Philippe, Genève Gentleman’s wristwatch, with the following complications: – 1/5 second chronograph, with rectangular push buttons, tachometer scale graduated for one mile – 30-minute register (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock) – Perpetual calendar with apertures – Date (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock) – Day of the week (aperture at 11 o’clock; in English) – Month (aperture at 1 o’clock; in English) – Moon phases (aperture at 6 o’clock)

Movement No. 863 247, calibre 13-130, rhodium-plated, straight line lever escapement, compensation balance with gold timing screws and Breguet balance spring, eight adjustments 1943 –1946 Inv. P-1681 H. 48.4 mm / ∅ 37.6 mm / thickness 13.5 mm Sold on November 1, 1944, to Charles Stern. This watch originally had a dial with red indexes; it was replaced by the present dial on June 20, 1946.

Silvered satin-finished gold dial, applied upright gold arabic numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 9 o’clock

In a sense a reference 1518 housed in a reference 1527 case (approximately two millimetres wider and high enough to accomodate the perpetual calendar plate, chronograph mechanism and longer lugs), this watch appears to be the only one made by Patek Philippe with this reference and these horological complications.

Gold Feuille hands; counterpoised gold seconds hand

illustrations of the movements 150%

Yellow gold case, No. 634 687

W R I S T WAT C H E S W I T H   C O M P L I C AT I O N S

Wristwatch with Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar REFERENCE 1518

Patek Philippe, Genève Gentleman’s wristwatch, with the following complications: – chronograph with rectangular push buttons, tachometer scale graduated for one mile – 30-minute register (subsidiary dial at 3 o’clock) – Perpetual calendar – Date (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock) – Day of the week (aperture at 11 o’clock; in English) – Month (aperture at 1 o’clock; in English) – Moon phases (aperture at 6 o’clock) Yellow gold case, No. 653 811 Satin-finished silver dial, applied upright gold Arabic numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 9 o’clock Gold Feuille hands; counterpoised gold seconds hand Movement No. 867 387, calibre 13-130, lever escapement, compensation balance and Breguet balance spring, eight adjustments 1948 –1949 Inv. P-657 H. 43.1 mm / ∅ 34.9 mm / thickness 13.5 mm

Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar Wristwatches, 1942–1989

305

Platinum and Diamond Wristwatch

Platinum and Diamond Wristwatch

Water-Resistant Wristwatch

REFERENCE 96

REFERENCE 96

REFERENCE 2545

Patek Philippe, Genève

Patek Philippe, Genève

Patek Philippe, Genève

Gentleman’s wristwatch with subsidiary seconds

Gentleman’s wristwatch with centre seconds

Platinum case, No. 303 724, Calatrava type

Platinum case, No. 304 797, Calatrava type

Gentleman’s water-resistant wristwatch, with subsidiary seconds

Black lacquered metal dial, brilliant-cut and baguette-cut diamond indexes in white gold chatons, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock

Silvered metal dial, brilliant-cut and baguette-cut diamond indexes in white gold chatons, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock

White gold Feuille hands; white gold counterpoised seconds hand

White gold Feuille hands; white gold counterpoised seconds hand

Movement No. 968 946, calibre 12’’’- 120, rhodium-plated, straight line lever escapement, compensation balance and Breguet balance spring

Movement No. 938 196, calibre 12’’’- 120, rhodiumplated, straight line lever escapement, Glucydur balance with screws and self-compensating Breguet balance spring, eight adjustments

1951 –1952 Inv. P-1292 H. 39 mm / ∅ 30.6 mm / thickness 8.8 mm

1952 Inv. P-861 H. 39 mm / ∅ 30.6 mm / thickness 9.4 mm

Yellow gold case, No. 307 450, calatrava type, screw-on back silvered metal dial, applied upright gold Breguet numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Gold Dauphine hands; gold counterpoised seconds hand Movement No. 724 517, calibre 12’’’- 400, rhodiumplated, straight line lever escapement, Glucydur balance with screws and self-compensating Breguet balance spring, eight adjustments 1955 Inv. P-1191 H. 40 mm / ∅ 31.6 mm / thickness 8.7 mm Delivered on February 27, 1955, to the Henri Stern Watch Agency, New York.

T H E C A L AT R AVA C R O S S , E M B L E M O F PAT E K   P H I L I P P E

Wristwatch

Wristwatch

Wristwatch

REFERENCE 96

REFERENCE 570

REFERENCE 570

Patek Philippe, Genève

Patek Philippe, Genève

Patek Philippe, Genève

Wristwatch with subsidiary seconds

Wristwatch with centre seconds

Gentleman’s wristwatch with centre seconds

Yellow gold case, No. 308 315, calatrava type; “Clous de Paris” guilloché bezel

Yellow gold case, No. 307 976, Calatrava type

White gold case, No. 322 487, Calatrava type

silvered metal dial, applied gold baton indexes, centre seconds

silvered metal dial, applied white gold baton indexes, centre seconds

Gold Dauphine hands; gold counterpoised seconds hand

White gold Baton hands; white gold counterpoised seconds hand

Movement No. 705 525, calibre 27 SC, rhodiumplated, straight line lever escapement, compensation balance and Breguet balance spring

Movement No. 711 670, calibre 27 SC, rhodiumplated, straight line lever escapement, Glucydur balance with screws and self-compensating Breguet balance spring, eight adjustments

silvered metal dial, gold baton indexes, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Gold Dauphine hands; gold counterpoised seconds hand Movement No. 726 023, calibre 12’’’- 400, rhodiumplated, straight line lever escapement, Glucydur balance with screws and self-compensating Breguet balance spring, eight adjustments 1955 –1956 Inv. P-449 H. 39.1 mm / ∅ 30.6 mm / thickness 8.7 mm

1956 Inv. P-1426 H. 43.6 mm / ∅ 35.3 mm / thickness 10.5 mm

1965 –1967 Inv. P-1425 H. 44 mm / ∅ 35.4 mm / thickness 10.4 mm

Delivered on August 30, 1956, to the Henri Stern Watch Agency, New York.

1914 –1967

335

World Time Dress Watch REFERENCE 605 HU PRE-PRODUCTION MODEL

Patek Philippe, Genève Dress watch, indicating 28 time zones on a rotating bezel, with centre seconds Yellow gold case, No. 614 479 Silvered satin-finished dial, upright Arabic numerals and painted baton indexes; revolving disc indicating the diurnal and nocturnal hours Gold hands, made by Louis Cottier Movement No. 158 947, calibre 17’’’, extra-flat, direct centre seconds mechanism, lever escapement 1936 –1937 Inv. P-1117 H. 58.4 mm / ∅ 47.3 mm / thickness 9.9 mm Delivered on November 13, 1937, to Walser, Wald y C ia, Buenos Aires, Patek Philippe’s agent in Argentina.

W O R L D T I M E A N D J U M P H O U R WAT C H E S A N D L O U I S C O T T I E R   P R O T O T Y P E S

World Time Dress Watch

World Time Dress Watch

REFERENCE 1064 HU

REFERENCE 605 HU

Patek Philippe, Genève

Patek Philippe, Genève

Dress watch, indicating 33 time zones on a rotating bezel

Dress watch, indicating 31 time zones on a rotating bezel

Yellow gold case, No. 618 019

Rose gold case, No. 626 969

Silvered satin-finished dial, applied and painted arabic numerals; revolving disc indicating diurnal and nocturnal hours

Satin-finished champagne-coloured dial, applied gold Roman numerals and dot indexes; revolving disc indicating diurnal and nocturnal hours

Gold hands, made by Louis Cottier

Gold hands, made by Louis Cottier

Movement No. 162 493, calibre 17’’’, lever escapement

Movement No. 930 149, calibre 17-170, lever escapement

1938

1942

Inv. P-907

Inv. P-207

H. 54.1 mm / ∅ 44.7 mm / thickness 8.7 mm

H. 56 mm / ∅ 44.6 mm / thickness 9.1 mm

Delivered on September 20, 1940, to Tiffany & Co, New York.

1 9 3 6 –1 9 6 6

339

Old Bridge over the Vièze, Dress Watch REFERENCE 866/63

Patek Philippe, Genève Yellow gold case, No. 433 681 Painted on enamel on gold by Luce Chappaz Painted metal dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Baton hands Movement No. 932 550, calibre 17-170 1975 –1976 Inv. P-197 H. 60.4 mm / ∅ 47.3 mm / thickness 8.1 mm

The Mouth of the River Hermance, Dress Watch REFERENCE 866/64

Patek Philippe, Genève Yellow gold case, No. 433 682

Ville-d’Avray, Dress Watch REFERENCE 866/69

Patek Philippe, Genève Yellow gold case, No. 433 684

Painted on enamel on gold by Luce Chappaz

Painted on enamel on gold by suzanne Rohr, after Jean-Baptiste Corot

Painted metal dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock

Painted metal dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock

Blued steel Baton hands

Blued steel Baton hands

Movement No. 932 677, calibre 17-170

Movement No. 932 674, calibre 17-170

1975 –1976

1976

Inv. P-515

Inv. P-258

H. 60.2 mm / ∅ 47.3 mm / thickness 8.3 mm

H. 60.4 mm / ∅ 47.3 mm / thickness 9.3 mm

This watch was never sold.

This watch was never sold.

The source of the Hermance River is in HauteSavoie, at 583 metres.

The painting Ville-d’Avray by Jean-Baptiste Corot is in the National Gallery of Washington.

This watch was never sold. The bridge over the Vièze is located on the Grand Paradis route, just outside of Champéry in the Swiss Canton of Valais.

C L O I S O N N É E N A M E L , PA I N T E D O N E N A M E L , A N D E N G R AV E D   WAT C H E S

The Pissevache Waterfall, Dress Watch REFERENCE 866/53

Patek Philippe, Genève Yellow gold case, No. 433 674 Painted on enamel on gold by suzanne Rohr, after François Diday Painted metal dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock Blued steel Baton hands Movement No. 932 318, calibre 17-170 1974 Inv. P-246 H. 60.4 mm / ∅ 47.4 mm / thickness 9.4 mm

The Mont-Blanc Seen from Sallanches at Sunset, Dress Watch

The Mont-Blanc Mountain Range Seen from Mornex, Dress Watch

REFERENCE 866/79

REFERENCE 865/54

Patek Philippe, Genève

Patek Philippe, Genève

Yellow gold case, No. 433 693

Yellow gold case, No. 520 954

Painted on enamel on gold by suzanne Rohr, after Pierre-Louis De la Rive

Painted on enamel on gold by suzanne Rohr, after Jean Dubois

Painted metal dial, painted Roman numerals, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock

Painted metal dial, painted Roman numerals

Blued steel Baton hands

Movement No. 933 061, calibre 17-170

Movement No. 932 705, calibre 17-170 1977 Inv. P-253 H. 60.4 mm / ∅ 47.3 mm / thickness 9.2 mm

This watch was never sold. The Salanfe, or the “Pissevache”, a 114 metre high waterfall located between Martigny and SaintMaurice in the canton of Valais, has inspired many artists and writers.

Blued steel Louis XV hands 1982 –1983 Inv. P-514 H. 60.5 mm / ∅ 47.9 mm / thickness 9.5 mm This watch was never sold.

This watch was never sold. The painting The Mont-Blanc Seen from Sallanches at sunset, by Pierre-Louis De la Rive, is in the Geneva Musée d’art et d’histoire.

Painted on Enamel and Engraved Pocket Watches, 1955 –1988

The painting The Mont-Blanc Mountain Range seen from Mornex by Jean Dubois is in the Geneva Musée d’art et d’histoire.

373

Dome clock, The Patek Philippe Building in Geneva Patek Philippe, Genève Gilt brass case, No. 1348, cloisonné enamel, gold on copper, by Luce Chappaz silvered metal dial, gilt brass hour ring, painted Roman numerals; cloisonné enamel motifs in the four corners Fancy skeleton hands Movement No. 1 804 487, calibre 33 P, quartz, powered by a photoelectric cell in the dome 1988 –1989 Inv. PE-08 H. 215 mm / ∅ 128 mm This clock was never sold. It was produced to commemorate Patek Philippe’s 150 th anniversary in 1989. Its cloisonné enamel scenes depict the Patek Philippe building on the quai Général-Guisan in Geneva. illustration 60%

CLOCKS AND DOME CLOCKS

19 52 –19 91

411

Calibre 89 – the Most Complicated Watch in the World Patek Philippe, Genève Pocket watch, double dialled, with 33 horological complications. The first dial indicates: – hours and minutes; concentric yellow gold Breguet hands; subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock, blued steel counterpoised seconds hand (not considered a horological complication) – Hours in a second time zone (concentric blued steel Breguet hand) – secular perpetual calendar – Retrograde date (sector between 10 and 2 o’clock, concentric blued steel Baton hand) – Day of the week (aperture between 8 and 9 o’clock; in French) – Month (aperture between 3 and 4 o’clock; in French) – Age and phases of the moon (subsidiary dial, graduated from 0 to 29 ½, aperture at 6 o’clock) – Four-digit year (aperture at 12 o’clock) – Leap year cycle (aperture at 12 o’clock; to the right of the year indication) – 1/5 second chronograph – Split-seconds – 30-minute register (subsidiary dial between 2 and 3 o’clock; blued steel hand) – 12-hour register (subsidiary dial between 9 and 10 o’clock; blued steel hand) – Going train power reserve indication (subsidiary dial between 2 and 3 o’clock; gold hand) – Striking train power reserve indication (subsidiary dial between 9 and 10 o’clock; gold hand)

– Winding crown position indicator (at 12 o’clock; “B/A/R”) – Alarm on a gong (index on inner edge of the bezel) – thermometer, from –10° to +50° celsius (subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock; not considered a horological complication) the second dial indicates: – Hours of sidereal time (concentric blued steel Lance hand; one revolution every 24 hours) – Minutes of sidereal time (concentric blued steel Lance hand; one revolution per hour) – Seconds of sidereal time (subsidiary dial at 12 o’clock; blued steel counterpoised seconds hand) – Time of sunrise in Geneva (subsidiary dial at 16 o’clock) – Time of sunset in Geneva (subsidiary dial at 8 o’clock) – Equation of time sector (subsidiary dial at 12 o’clock; gold hand) – star chart, adaptable for different latitudes, two-way adjustment (central oval aperture; here showing the sky above Geneva: latitude 46° 11’ 59’’ north) – Cycles of the seasons, equinoxes, solstices and signs of the zodiac (blued steel and yellow gold concentric “sun” hand) – Date of Easter until 2017 (“22 mars / 25 avril” graduation between 18 and 6 o’clock, concentric blued steel Baton hand) continued on the following pages

C O M M E M O R AT I V E WAT C H E S , C A L I B R E 8 9   A N D S TA R C A L I B E R   2 0 0 0

Calibre 89

429