Paddle Scotland: The Best Places to Go with a Paddleboard, Kayak or Canoe 9781399401470, 1399401475

Table of contents :
Cover
Half-title
Copyright
Title
Contents
Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park
01. Balmaha, Loch Lomond, Inchcailloch and Clairinsh Island
02. Milarrochy Bay, Loch Lomond and Inchfad
03. Luss, Loch Lomond, Inchconnachan and Inchtavannach
04. Inchmurrin, Loch Lomond, Arden to Inchmurrin
05. Loch Achray to Loch Venachar
06. Loch Ard and the Narrows
07. Loch Chon
08. Loch Earn
The East
09. Arbroath Cliffs
10. Catterline Bay to Stonehaven
11. Montrose Bay and Basin
12. The River Dee, Banchory to Maryculter
13. Portknockie, Bow Fiddle Rock
14. Nairn
Central Belt and Tayside
15. The River Clyde
16. The Firth of Forth
17. The River Forth
18. The River Teith
19. The Forth and Clyde Canal
20. River Lyon into the River Tay
21. River Tummel into the River Tay
The South
22. Loch Ken
23. St Mary’s Loch and Loch of the Lowes
24. Ayr Harbour
North Coast, Caithness, Sutherland and far North
25. Loch Brora
26. Loch Shin
27. Dunnet Bay
28. Loch Hope
29. The Rabbit Islands of Talmine
30. Handa Island
31. Tarbat Ness Lighthouse
The West
32. Loch Morar and the Islands
33. Càrna, Oronsay and Loch Sunart
34. Loch Leven and Glencoe
35. Oban and Kerrera
36. Loch Awe
The Scottish Islands
37. Mull, Tobermory Bay
38. Mull, The Ross of Mull
39. Arran, Holy Isle
40. Eriskay, Outer Hebrides
Island providers
References
Acknowledgements
Photo credits
Index

Citation preview

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ADLARD COLES Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK 29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland

Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third-party websites referred to or in this book. All internet addresses

First published in Great Britain 2023

given in this book were correct at the time of going to press. The author and publisher regret any inconvenience caused if addresses have changed or sites have ceased to exist, but can accept no responsibility for any such changes

This electronic edition published in 2023 by Bloomsbury Publishing Plc

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Copyright © Alasdair Findlay, 2023

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ISBN: PB: 978-1-3994-0147-0; ePub: 978-1-39940146-3; ePDF: 978-1-3994-0145-6

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D D L A E P

SCOTLAND The Best Places to Go with a Paddleboard, Kayak or Canoe

ALASDAIR FINDLAY

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CONTENTS LOCH LOMOND AND THE TROSSACHS NATIONAL PARK

6

01 Balmaha, Loch Lomond, Inchcailloch and Clairinsh Island

8

02 Milarrochy Bay, Loch Lomond and Inchfad

13

03 Luss, Loch Lomond, Inchconnachan and Inchtavannach

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04 Inchmurrin, Loch Lomond, Arden to Inchmurrin

23

05 Loch Achray to Loch Venachar

27

06 Loch Ard and the Narrows

32

07 Loch Chon 36 08 Loch Earn 39

THE EAST

42

09 Arbroath Cliffs 44 10 Catterline Bay to Stonehaven

49

11 Montrose Bay and Basin

53

12 The River Dee, Banchory to Maryculter

58

13 Portknockie, Bow Fiddle Rock

62

14 Nairn 65

CENTRAL BELT AND TAYSIDE 15 The River Clyde

70

72

16 The Firth of Forth 78 17 The River Forth 82 18 The River Teith 87 19 The Forth and Clyde Canal

90

20 River Lyon into the River Tay

100

21 River Tummel into the River Tay

104

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THE SOUTH

108

22 Loch Ken 110 23 St Mary’s Loch and Loch of the Lowes

113

24 Ayr Harbour 116

NORTH COAST, CAITHNESS, SUTHERLAND AND FAR NORTH 120 25 Loch Brora 122 26 Loch Shin 125 27 Dunnet Bay 128 28 Loch Hope 131 29 The Rabbit Islands of Talmine

133

30 Handa Island 136 31 Tarbat Ness Lighthouse 139

THE WEST

142

32 Loch Morar and the Islands

144

33 Càrna, Oronsay and Loch Sunart

148

34 Loch Leven and Glencoe

152

35 Oban and Kerrera 158 36 Loch Awe 162

THE SCOTTISH ISLANDS

166

37 Mull, Tobermory Bay 168 38 Mull, The Ross of Mull

172

39 Arran, Holy Isle 178 40 Eriskay, Outer Hebrides 182 Island providers 186 References 188 Acknowledgements 190 Photo credits 191 Index 192

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LOCH LOMOND AND THE TROSSACHS NATIONAL PARK Over half of Scotland’s population lives within a one hour drive of somewhere in Trossachs National Park. It stretches from Loch Eck in the far west, Balloch on the Bonnie banks of Loch Lomond in the south, to the edge of Loch Earn and Loch Venachar in the east and Loch Lubhair and the River Dochart in the north cruising the length of the north edge of the park. There are bodies of water galore in this part of Scotland and there is endless choice for where to paddle. At 1,865 square kilometres and with a boundary length of 350km it is a huge playground for paddlers of all types. Sea kayakers can roam the larger sea lochs of Loch Long and Goil, paddleboarders too can explore the many islands and sights of Loch Lomond, with kayakers and canoeists having plenty of white water if they so desire. There are 21 Munros meaning lots of valleys for water. There are 22 large lochs, with lots of smaller ones too. Some 50 rivers also wend through the park. To say visitors to the park are spoiled for choice is an understatement.

RIGHT Inchcailloch beach. BELOW Making stars.

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ANECDOTE FROM LOCH LOMOND

The National Park is a special place for me as it is where I started Glasgow Paddleboarders Co, and where I continue to guide adventure trips, run lessons, and support and train the paddleboarding instructors of tomorrow. Loch Lomond has to be one of the best places in the world to get out and paddle. It has so much to offer. Islands, villages, cafes, history, hotels and lots and lots of water. The weather is different every time you visit and this in itself makes it worth going to see. From the north coast at Ardlui to the south coast at Balloch the loch stretches over 35km. From Luss in the west to Balmaha in the east it reaches around 6km. There are 22 islands and 27 smaller islets on the loch. One of my favourite times of year is when I run a Loch Lomond paddleboarding holiday with my good friend Josh, a paddleboarding guide who makes the trip all the way up from the New Forest on the south coast of England because he loves the area so much. Josh brings up clients, friends and family to experience the loch during a 3-night hotel stay. The Glasgow folk come too to escape busy lives, but often the clients we have on the trip paddle on the canals of London or on the south coast of England and don’t have the luxury of mountains and huge lochs on their doorsteps. The excitement on arrival is always high if they are experiencing this for the first time. When we get out on the water, if the weather is behaving, people immediately feel relaxed. They can’t really believe the beauty of the place and cheeks spread wide with smiles. And those smiles last for days as we travel from island to island, taking in the sights, looking out for wildlife, identifying mountains around us, checking the wind and wondering if we’ll get to downwind back. In July 2022 we paddled from Balmaha across to Inchmurrin Island and were lucky enough to get to watch not one but two acrobatic white tailed eagles calling to each other. They stayed with us on our paddle and as we later walked across the entire island, they ducked and dived down into the water, looking for their next catch. An awesome experience for anyone, and we were very lucky to witness it. Paddling in open water is great when the weather is okay. Doing it in a group is even better because we can all support each other paddling further than we’ve paddled before. Whether with others or alone, this is a great area to visit to see some of the best of Scotland, and in particular Loch Lomond in all its beauty.

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01

BALMAHA, LOCH LOMOND, INCHCAILLOCH AND CLAIRINSH ISLAND

Launching from Balmaha pier, cruising past several small boats and yachts, you soon find yourself glaring at an ancient Jurassic Park-style cliff. On approach you’ll see a small beach, which is a delight and can help you get out of the wind that can rip down from the north of the loch. Bring your A-game for paddling across the first channel because the wind can make this a tough shift.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



DISTANCE 5km (round trip) PARKING

LAUNCH

Small beach beside statue

WATER TYPE Inland open water

Conic Hill Car Park

Background

Loch Lomond is what can only be described as beauty and the beast. It lies on the Highland Boundary Fault Line, a fracture in the earth’s crust deep underground. This crack separates the Northern Highlands and the Southern Lowlands. Munros and Corbetts surround the loch, which is the largest lake by area in the British Isles at 71 km². The scenery visible from the centre of the loch is stunning and on a calm day the sense of peace is incredible, but don’t underestimate the wind speeds that can batter the loch, particularly on harsh winter days.

A brief history ABOVE A reflective trip with Gladiator Tourers.

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Inchcailloch means 'island of the old woman'. In the 700s an Irish nun settled on the island, which was

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apparently home to a nunnery. At the top of the island there is a graveyard, which is the only Scheduled Monument around Loch Lomond. A church was built here in the 13th century and people travelled from Balmaha to worship on the island.

The paddle

There are different launch points around Balmaha to circumnavigate Inchcailloch, but the easiest access is from the small beach beside the statue of Tom Weir. There are usually mallards lounging around and it isn’t easily missed. It’s a calm harbour to launch from and leads out to the north-south channel which on a windy day can make crossing to the island tough. A small beach lies directly below the large cliffs you see as you paddle across. This is a great meeting point, and where you can decide on whether to take a clockwise or anticlockwise route. The islands provide

ABOVE A sunset adventure with Glasgow

Paddleboarders Co.

fantastic shelter on the loch so paddling on the side opposite the wind usually allows for a calm paddle. Paddling on the south side of the island

P

START Oak Tree Inn

INCHCAILLOCH

Campsite X wc

 CLAIRINSH

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PADDLE SC OT LA ND

will give you views across to Clairinsh and further south to Ross Priory. Torrinch, Creinch and Inchmurrin all lead directly south west. 2km from the launch point is the southernmost tip of the island. Travelling between Torrinch and Inchcailloch brings the stunning sight of the beach, Port Bawn, on the south end of the island. On the beach there is a campsite (with toilets), which is

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often used by groups of friends at weekends looking to escape the mainland. Out of the bay, travelling north in a clockwise direction, there are views north across to Inchfad and the hills above Luss. The Glen Striddle Horseshoe is truly a sight to behold. To the north of the loch you will get stunning views to the Arrochar Alps and in the west Ben Lomond looms high above

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the loch, the top regularly covered with mist. The rocks jet out from the island on this side and the water is relatively shallow. A 2km paddle will bring you back to the pier at Balmaha, but again, pay attention to the winds. As you travel back into Balmaha, Conic Hill is particularly noteworthy. There is a small boat that takes passengers from the pier in Balmaha to the island. The Oak

11

Tree Inn also has a jetty, which can be busy with boats. The paddle round Inchcailloch is different every time that you do it, with the rich green of the trees in the summer, and golden oranges in the winter. The wind also changes the movement of the water every time you visit, depending on the direction it is blowing. LEFT Looking down past Inchcailloch. BELOW Well worth a visit at sunrise or sunset.

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Wildlife

In the heart of summer ospreys can be seen, and if you’re very lucky at night, you might hear or see the white fallow deer swimming between islands. Keep your eyes peeled for white tailed eagles too.

Food stop

You can’t go to Balmaha without stopping in at The Oak Tree Inn, where the most difficult part of your day will be what to choose from the fantastic menu. The hotel is owned by the local Fraser family who have a fantastic team working for them who go above and beyond to make your stay the best it can be.

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Other activities

The West Highland Way runs through Balmaha and there are lots of nice walking routes in and around the local area. Climb Conic Hill if you fancy a walk with stunning views over the loch. At 361m it offers breathtaking views of the islands as far as the eye can see.

BELOW Yvonne McBroom gazes up to Ben Lomond.

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MILARROCHY BAY, LOCH LOMOND AND INCHFAD

Inchfad is a pirate’s dream, an island used for smuggling and whisky production in the 18th and 19th centuries. It was once farmed and boasts its own canal, which would make for an incredible place for a concert, as the acoustics inside put even great music venues to shame. The island is home to white fallow deer, plus one or two stray sheep.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



LAUNCH

DISTANCE

Variety of options ranging 5–10km

WATER TYPE Inland open water

Milarrochy Bay Car Park

Background

The rocky bay at Milarrochy is a hive of activity in the summer, with city dwellers escaping to find some rest in the beauty of the Loch Lomond National Park. The bay looks over to many of the islands in Loch Lomond and directly faces Inchcruin and Bucinch, which are just over 2km away across exposed water. The journey round the privately owned island of Inchfad to the south west keeps paddlers closer to the mainland and will avoid them entering such open expanses of water.

A brief history

Inchfad is a fantastically forested island with a high point of 24m above sea level. The island itself is around

RIGHT Loch Lomond’s most photographed tree.

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1.5km long. To the south east tip of the island are several houses. One is the original farmhouse but there are some more modern properties as well. Like many of the islands on the loch it is privately owned. Historically it’s a fascinating place as in the 19th century it had its very own whisky distillery. This came about because of strict laws that led to widespread illegal whisky distilling in the 1700s. The government wanted to control the production of whisky to ensure that money came in from the taxes when it was sold. Small distillers were not viable if at least 450L of whisky was made at a time. Being an island made it a very good place to be able to store and hide spirits, and rumour has it that many an illicit barrel of whisky was smuggled off of the island.

The paddle

The route starts at Milarrochy Bay car park, which has an entrance off the B837 around 1.5km north of Balmaha. There are toilets and shower facilities there. The car park gets very busy during the summer so arriving early is advisable. The beach in front of the car park is a rocky bay, so with boats or hard boards it is important to be careful on launching. When looking out into Loch Lomond there are some large rocky outlines on the south

SHORT ROUTE

ABOVE Just me and the dog.

START

P

wc 

Canal X entrance

INCHFAD

ELLANDERROCH

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side of the beach. This point is called Arrochymore Point and should be avoided. Head around the outside of the rocks before taking a straight line across to the houses that can be seen on Inchfad Island. The direction of travel will partly depend on wind speed but on a calm day if you head to the south of Inchfad you will pass the houses and a small harbour. The harbour is now full of silt and only used by local occupants. The entrance to the old canal is on the south edge of the island – look out for two tall white poles. Travelling west 1km from here will take you to a small island called Ellanderroch, which is a beautiful little haven for rest if needed. The gap between Inchfad and Ellanderroch is shallow so take care and stay in the middle. Paddleboarders may want to kneel down to avoid underlying rocks. This is the southernmost point of Inchfad and from here there are many options for paddling different routes. To keep it short, paddle back down the north side of Inchfad and straight back to Milarrochy. To extend the trip, head between

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ABOVE Looking to Luss from Milarrochy Bay. BELOW Exploring with Josh the SUP guide.

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START MILARROCHY BAY

BUCINCH

EXTENDED ROUTE

INCHCRUIN

INCHFAD

ELLANDERROCH

Inchmoan and Inchcruin and travel up the west side of Inchcruin. A quick circle of Bucinch extends it further, before heading back to Milarrochy Bay. As the crow flies it is around 3km from Bucinch back to Milarrochy Bay. On a calm and clear breeze free day this is more than manageable but paddling back south to Inchfad ensures dry land is always nearby.

Wildlife

You are almost guaranteed to see some of the many albino fallow deer that live around the banks of Loch Lomond. Ospreys roam this area in the summer months as well and white tailed eagles have been spotted scanning the loch for their next catch.

Food stop

If time is on your side and you want to travel up the loch a little further, The Rowardennan Hotel has a very

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traditional and fun pub that is well worth a visit. It’s 8km further north of the car park at Milarrochy Bay. The Oak Tree Inn at Balmaha is a closer (and fantastic) option.

Other activities

Some 8km north at Rowardennan lies the car park for the most southern Munro, Ben Lomond. Well worth a walk that takes 4–6 hours. It has a very well-marked path all the way to the top and is a busy Munro, being the closest to the city of Glasgow.

ABOVE RIGHT Coaching future Water Skills Academy instructors. RIGHT Looking north on Loch Lomond.

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03

LUSS, LOCH LOMOND, INCHCONNACHAN AND INCHTAVANNACH

Luss is a beautiful Scottish village found halfway up the west edge of Loch Lomond. It remains unblemished, without lots of modern architecture, and because of this has been used as a filming location for different TV series and movies. Whisky Galore was filmed here in 2016 and Take the High Road was filmed here over several years in the early 2000s. The area around the loch has also hosted the Netflix series Outlander. Sir David Attenborough came to film swans from Luss, capturing them in flight over Loch Lomond.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



DISTANCE Varies, 5–10km PARKING

LAUNCH

Visitor centre car park, Luss

WATER TYPE Inland open water

Conic Hill Car Park

RIGHT

Cruising on a Gladiator Elite 11’4.

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Background

Luss is a very popular village for visitors and tourists and its beaches are an ideal location from which to launch any paddle craft. In the summer it can be very busy. The pier is an iconic feature, jutting out high above the water – it is used as a jumping-off spot for many a daredevil. On good days in the summer the beach fills up with families who come to enjoy the water and the beautiful views. From Luss, Inchlonaig Island is directly east with Fraoch Eilean, a smaller island, directly to the south. It is often used as a turn-back point for beginner paddlers who launch from the beach. Beyond lies Inchcailloch and Inchtavannach with an interesting channel through the middle known locally as the Narrows. Watch out for jet skis and powerboats as they all use this area too.

LUSS

P

19

START

F

Lodge on Loch Lomond

FRAOCH EILEAN

INCHCONNACHAN

INCHTAVANNACH

A brief history Inchcailloch is quite the island, with interesting residents. Red necked wallabies are of course a non-native species, with no predators on the 50 hectare island and an abundance of food. They have an ability to survive subzero winter temperatures despite being an animal that normally lives in 30˚C+ heat. The wallabies have been present on the island since the 1940s when the local landowner brought some young ones back from a holiday to the southern hemisphere. They were put out on Inchcailloch over the winter, probably not expected to be seen again, but, to the

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owner’s surprise more had ‘arrived’. The wallabies have been here ever since. They are now kept under the watchful eye of the Loch Lomond and Trossachs Rangers. Apparently today’s wallabies have thicker fur than their Australian cousins, which perhaps is a sign of the need for an extra jacket in the colder weather! The island is privately owned, which has created some debate over the future of the wallabies and their place on the island.

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The paddle

Launching from the beach in Luss gives scope for a number of paddles and a huge number of options depending on how far you want to go and what you want to see. A trip round Inchtavannach offers a lot and is well worth doing. It gives you the feeling of being out in open water but also close to land most of the way if you like to have that safe haven. Leaving the beach you can skirt round past Luss Pier and look up at all the people standing gazing out over the loch. In the summer you will definitely get some waves and hellos. As you approach the river mouth from the River Luss, be careful with shallow levels of water especially if your boat or board has fins in the water. Fraoch Eilean is a rocky mass sticking above the water level. It has trees and grass and is home to many a gull. There is a small bench at the back end if you want to get out of the water for a rest. From here paddle into the gap between Inchtavannach and Inchconnachan. This gap is known locally as the Narrows and usually brings very calm and sheltered water. There are beaches on both Inchtavannach and Inchconnachan to explore. Inchcailloch can be busy at weekends with boats docked on the south bays. A trip round Inchtavannach will bring you to the south side of the island where you are almost certain to see Highland cows. From the south west tip it is a straight paddle north back to Luss. Beware of winds that come down through this channel, though.

ABOVE LEFT Paddleboard or sea plane – which

would you prefer? ABOVE RIGHT The top of the loch. RIGHT Sunset is coming.

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Wildlife

Cormorants and gulls bask on the rocks off the beach of Luss. Over at Inchcailoch Island you may be lucky enough to spot the wallabies. Ospreys fish and dive during the summer months in the loch so keep your eyes peeled for them too.

BOTTOM Coming back to Luss Beach. BELOW Jump around!

Food stop

Lodge on Loch Lomond is a fantastic place for afternoon tea and dinners in the evening. It has its own spa as well so if you want to be pampered this is the place for you. It has more than 48 bedrooms and facilities for 200 guests. Luss Seafood Bar serves a selection of excellent Scottish seafood and offers great wine, gins and whisky.

Other activities

There are great walks around Luss village and the local river has flat stones, which are great for skimming! Be sure to visit Luss Parish Church, which has been on this site for over 1,500 years.

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INCHMURRIN, LOCH LOMOND, ARDEN TO INCHMURRIN

This is the island on Loch Lomond to visit if you want to paddle somewhere and get a drink or eat out along the way. It has some great walking routes too, and offers a good opportunity to see white tailed eagles swoop and dive throughout the spring and summer season.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



PARKING

Car park past marina, Arden

DISTANCE

Variety of options ranging 5–15km

LAUNCH

Beach 300m from parking

WATER TYPE Inland open water

Background

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INCHMURRIN Inchmurrin Hotel

aili

ng

win

ds

SHORT ROUTE

Prev

Arden is really a scattering of houses and a small pier for the ferry that takes foot passengers to Inchmurrin Island during the summer months. It is 8km east of Helensburgh and much the same north of Dumbarton. From Arden you can see Inchmurrin, which is the largest freshwater lake island in the UK. It is 2.5km long and less than 700m wide at its widest point. It is also the most southernly of all the islands on Loch Lomond and the closest to Glasgow. On the island there are walking routes ideal for any budding explorers. It boasts around 25 residents in the summer months but people don’t live on the island all year round. The island has its own hotel so it is an ideal location to head to from the shores of Loch Lomond for those looking for an overnight stay or a paddle and a pint and some excellent pub grub, though note the hotel is only open April to October.

START

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A brief history

The island was once a retreat for the Earl of Lennox and his family. Sadly only the ruins of Lennox Castle remain, however. Remnants of a seventhcentury monastery can also be found there. The island has enjoyed visits from many famous visitors over the centuries, including Robert the Bruce and Mary, Queen of Scots. The first king of both Scotland and England, James VI (later James I), visited Inchmurrin in his only return to Scotland. He went hunting here, presumably for deer. More recent history on the island has welcomed a nudist club. The Scottish Outdoor Club are naturists and promote relaxation and acceptance of one’s own body image.

The paddle 1 ARDEN Take the third exit off the roundabout on the A82 after the Duck Bay Marina to find a large car park, which is at the top of the single track road that leads down to the water. You need to carry craft for around 300m to the beach, which is a small bay looking directly out to Inchmurrin. On approaching the water you will see a red gate that is often locked but can be hopped

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over reasonably easily. The Burnfoot Jetty for the ferry lies to the north side of the beach. From here you have an excellent launch point and great views across to Inchmurrin Island. This is an open water paddle through a quiet marina. There are always small boats bobbing in the water around the beach. In the summer the ferry completes shuttle runs back and forth to the island. The paddle itself is a straightforward 1.5km out to the south pier on Inchmurrin and the same back again. Circumnavigating the island, on the other hand, is a 10km paddle from Arden. In recent years white tailed eagles have been seen on the loch, and there are yellow buoys in the water marking a no-go zone to protect the sites the birds use for nesting. Be aware of these when paddling in the area. The prevailing wind comes from the south so make sure you check wind speeds and temperatures before doing this trip. If you want to go for some food on the island the hotel is to the east of the ferry on the south pier. It has its own pier and beach, which are excellent places to go to on the island. The hotel itself lies up on the hill and can’t be missed.

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The paddle 2 BALMAHA Inchmurrin Island can also be accessed from Balmaha on the opposite side of the loch. This is a much longer paddle (4.5km) than the circumnavigation but also includes a fantastic walk over the entire length of the island so could be worth the trip in the correct conditions. From Balmaha, launching from the harbour and skirting Clairinsh and Inchcailloch will take you to Creinch, a small island opposite the south edge of Inchcailloch. From here you paddle on past Torrinch, another small island, before arriving at Inchmurrin on the north beach. A single track can be walked all the way to the hotel at the south end of the island. LEFT Exploring the loch. BELOW The Sea Lion Rapoka –

Beach

EXTENDED ROUTE AROUND THE ISLAND

INCHMURRIN

Inchmurrin Hotel

START

11’ of SUP goodness.

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Food stop

Inchmurrin Hotel is a welcome stop after a long paddle from Balmaha or Arden. The Scott family live on the island and run the hotel, which serves excellent food. BELOW Looking across Loch Lomond towards Inchcailloch.

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Cameron House is a luxury hotel on the shores of Loch Lomond less than 5 minutes from Arden. It has several restaurants that are sure to get those taste-buds tingling. The restaurant at Duck Bay Marina has panoramic views across Loch Lomond and dishes for everyone.

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LOCH ACHRAY TO LOCH VENACHAR

Loch Achray is the ‘Duke’s Loch’. It revels in its history and was the setting for some much dwelled-upon drama between King James VI and rebellious dukes, which led to charges of treason and executions. This loch itself is a photographer’s haven as the sheltered environment creates stunning reflections all around.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY  (If unsure about rivers use a local guide) DISTANCE Varies, 5–10km

PARKING/LAUNCH Ben Venue car park WATER TYPE

Inland open water and slow moving river

P START

Loc

h Ac

P hray

FINISH

Loch Venachar

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Background

Loch Achray basks below the Duke’s Pass lying to the eastern side of the Loch Lomond National Park. It sits below Ben Venue, about 18km west of Callander, 8km north of Aberfoyle and less than 3km from the south east edge of its bigger cousin, Loch Katrine. It is the official start of the River Teith, which joins the River Forth in Stirling before flowing out into the Firth of Forth. A relatively small loch in comparison to other lochs in the park, it links nicely into Loch Venachar via Black Water, a slow moving river that snakes through the forested areas around Brig o’Turk. Loch Venachar is a bigger body of water directly east. It is one of the lochs that makes up the Three Lochs Forest Drive, which is accessible in the summer months.

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A brief history

Loch Achray for a period of time was home to James ‘Beag’ Stewart who lived between 1410 and 1470. His father was a man known as James the Fat, and he fled to exile in Ireland after his father was executed for treason in 1425. They were known as the Dukes of Albany. Much of Scotland was ungovernable at that time and the King of Scotland found it difficult to manage because of the clan systems that rebelled against royalty. Anything north of the River Forth was known as the Kingdom of the Picts. Brig o’Turk is the hamlet at the halfway point on the paddle and it was a key location for Jacobite lairds to meet. They wanted to support Bonnie Prince Charlie in his claim over the Scottish throne.

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The paddle

Launching from the Ben Venue car park, you gain access to the loch across the road via a set of steps. If the water levels are low there is a small beach below the road from which you can also launch. The loch has a small island on the north side that can only be passed on a high water day. To the south side of the loch lies the end of the Three Lochs Forest Drive, and in busy summer seasons you often see cars driving round that side of the water. As you approach the east edge of the loch prepare to look for and find the entrance to Black

RIGHT Doggy paddles – safety first! BELOW Cruising the flood plains.

ABOVE xxxxxx OPPOSITE xxxxxxx

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Water. It is a wooded area and woodpeckers can often be heard battering at the trees. Black Water is almost canal like on approach and there is very little river flow into the entrance of the river. The trees lie low over the water so a bit of ducking and manoeuvring is needed to break free into the channel that leads downstream. The first 500m is a straight channel. At the end of this first channel the River Turks joins from Loch Katrine. Achray Farm sits on the south side of the river. The flow on the river here probably won’t be more than Grade 1. Kayakers and canoers have the advantage over paddleboarders as trees can lie low over the edges of the riverbanks. River fins are a must for boarders. The bridge at Brig o’Turk has been there since 1796 and is only missing a troll for being the most troll-worthy bridge of the Trossachs. There are a series of small eddies created by fallen trees and branches so watch out for those. The river speeds up

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round some corners that can be blocked with logs from local beavers. Look out for the gnawed marks they have left on large trees. If you hear sudden splashes or a loud slapping sound in the water, it may be beavers jumping from the bank to escape oncoming paddlers. Special care must be taken through these sections, especially when flow is faster. Past Duncraggan Woods the route gently meanders around several bends before the noise of Canada geese on Loch Venachar can often heard. In this section beautiful views of Ben Venue and Ben A’an appear to the west. The water widens as you approach the opening of Loch Venachar and then you will get stunning views down the loch. There are two car parks on the north side of Loch Venachar, but for those wishing to travel the full length of the loch, parking is available at East Lodge car park on the southeastern tip of the loch. This lengthens the paddle by approximately 3km.

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CAG Adventures and Glasgow Paddleboarders Co guide this route on a regular basis.

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ABOVE Calm waters, calm mind. LEFT A guided tour to Loch Achray.

Wildlife

Beavers became extinct in Scotland in the 1600s because of overhunting. Since 2009 they have returned and can now be found at a variety of locations around Scotland, including on sections of this river. Good luck seeing these shy creatures. Keep your eyes peeled for marks on the trees. Buzzards, grey herons, local sheep and Highland cattle can all be seen along the river. You will hear dippers chirping along the way too.

Food stop

At The Byre Inn, Brig o’Turk you can be served a wide range of soft and alcoholic drinks, including a tasty selection of Scottish whiskies that

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landlord Jason will be more than happy to talk you through.

Other activities

The 11km-long Three Lochs Forest Drive takes you past three picturesque lochs – Lochan Reòidhte, Loch Drunkie and Loch Achray. Fancy swinging from some trees? At Go Ape – Aberfoyle zip lines guide you high above the forest canopy. Go to Bracklinn Falls Bridge and Callander Crags for a beautiful walk.

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06

LOCH ARD AND THE NARROWS

It has to be said, this is up there as one of the best places to paddle in Scotland. From bothies to trees and shallow rivers, this route has it all. This paddler’s dream offers a range of different types of paddles for all different types of adventurers.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



LAUNCH

DISTANCE

Variety of options ranging 5–10km

WATER TYPE Inland open water

PARKING

Choice of lay-bys



steps.tripods.unfit

KINLOCHARD

P Loch Ard Sailing Club

START AND FINISH BOTHY X Duke Murdoch’s Castle

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THE NARROWS

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Background

Loch Ard has it all. Beauty. Islands. Escape. It is a fantastic little loch for paddlers of all abilities, whether using a canoe, kayak or paddleboard. More recently it has become especially popular with paddleboarders and wild swimmers, but it is often used by charities and schools for canoeing trips because of the access they get closer to the loch on the south side. There are two lay-bys that offer parking about 4km from the centre of Aberfoyle, on the B829 towards Kinlochard. From these lay-bys, a small beach can be accessed over a small wall. This is not necessarily easy for those with bigger canoes. Other parking can be found at the Loch Ard Forest car park. This is commonly used by walkers and cyclists but isn’t overly close to the water, which is something to bear in mind if you are carrying lots of equipment.

BOTTOM Paddling before the Narrows. BELOW Lighting the way.

A brief history

The Duke of Albany hogs the limelight when it comes to historic drama around the area of Loch Ard. In the time of James VI of Scotland (also James I

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of England) there were plenty of clashes between those supporting Scottish or English rule during the formation of the United Kingdom, which affected the duke and his family to his detriment.

The paddle

Launching from the small beach offers a variety of long or short paddles for a range of weather conditions and abilities. If paddlers want to visit most of the loch and see all the sights the route will be about 10km. The water levels vary depending on time of year and this means that underlying rocks must be watched for when launching. There is a small cross on the left hand side of the beach about 50m from the shore. It is advisable to paddle past this because of the underlying rocks along the east shoreline. Once away from the beach, paddlers have a choice of heading east towards what is known as the Loch Ard Narrows, heading south to see Rob Roy’s Cave and Duke Murdoch’s Castle remains, or paddling up the north side of the loch, following the road. This leads to the Go Country Adventure Waterpark. At the very western end of the loch lies a small island called Eilean Gorm. This island is home to a bothy,

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which can be used for overnight stays. The west side of the loch is the widest section of open water so is the most exposed to the elements if the weather changes. The Narrows lie to the west side of the loch and gives a quiet and tranquil paddle. Loch Ard boasts being the source of the River Forth and the loch naturally and wonderfully flows to the east. It is very slow and is easy to paddle against. The water can be shallow here but is easily passable as long as you stick to the main flow. Watch out for underlying rocks, however. Any craft with fins should take particular care. There are three smaller lochans that are reached as part of the trip through the Narrows. This allows people paddling in groups to catch up if necessary. In group scenarios the Narrows should be paddled single file as the depth of water doesn’t allow craft to travel side by side through the more confined river sections. One of the best parts of paddling at Loch Ard is that there is very little or no phone signal. Go and relax, switch off from life and enjoy paddling around a beautiful location.

BELOW Assessing the conditions.

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Wildlife

The forested land around the loch is home to a variety of wildlife including hundreds of birds, red squirrels, ospreys, roe deer and if you are very lucky and up very early you might also be graced with the sight of a capercaillie.

Food stop

The Forth Inn is a traditional pub with great food and friendly staff. Maybe a pint is just what you need after an adventurous paddle on the loch. MacGregor’s serves hot drinks and amazing homemade cakes that go down a treat after a day on the water. The Station Coffee Shop also has a huge selection of snacks and meal options.

Other activities

The Queen Elizabeth Park is ideal for cyclists. Anglers should visit Loch Ard to catch pike, perch and brown trout. A permit can be purchased from Macdonald Forest Hills Hotel in Kinlochard. Go Country Adventure offers a range of outdoor activities, including a waterpark.

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ABOVE Taking a rest on a long paddle. TOP Looking towards Ben Lomond at sunset.

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07

LOCH CHON

Loch Chon literally translates from Gaelic as ‘Loch of the Dogs’. It’s one of the smaller bodies of water in the park, with three islands to reach, but with mountains all around, it’s a stunning place for a summer barbecue and a paddle with friends.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY





DISTANCE 5km round the perimeter PARKING

Free parking off B829

LAUNCH 1

fuels.facelift.tries

LAUNCH 2

warned.tradition.twilight

WATER TYPE Inland open water

HERON ISLAND

P START

LEFT An evening with the club.

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ABOVE Paddling against the wind can be a challenge. RIGHT In winter the water can look like glass.

Background

This little beauty is nestled within the heart of the Trossachs and is often overlooked as a paddle location because of the distraction of its bigger neighbour Loch Ard. If you’ve been to Loch Ard then keep driving! It’s worth the extra 5km trip past Kinlochard as it is less inhabited and showcases the natural beauty and landscape of Scotland brilliantly. The loch is sandwiched between Beinn Dubh (657m high) to its south west. Directly behind Beinn Dubh lies its bigger cousin Ben Lomond. Sron Lochie (501m) lies to the north east. On the loch there are three small islands to paddle around or explore. One of them goes by the name of Heron Island.

A brief history

Loch Chon’s biggest claim to historic significance comes from having its own monster. Many a loch in Scotland claims host to its own mythical creature but Loch Chon isn’t quite like the others. The monster here is shaped like a dog. There is a tragic story about a young boy who was killed by a local traveller, who then disposed of the boy’s body in the loch, where it was eaten by a monster with

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a head like a dog’s. The loch also claims to be home to many a fairy so be sure to keep your eyes peeled if out walking in the forest after a paddle. If you don’t know about Scottish fairies, then be sure to check out where they are and what they like and don’t like.

The paddle

Loch Chon is easily accessible on the B829 just past Kinlochard. Drive carefully as most of the road is single track so you will need to pass at specific points, especially at peak summer times when people are out exploring. There are two ideal launch points on the loch. The first is just off the road. It has a parking bay (free) that fits around eight vehicles and is approximately 20m from the water. It sits within a protected bay that is ideal for anyone new to paddling or for others who want to keep the launch area within sight. The water gets deep very quickly only a few metres from the shore. On the

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far side of the bay is a rocky shore so take care when approaching as there are plenty of rocks underwater too. Anyone with a more adventurous side can venture north to the top of the loch to explore and see its rugged shoreline. The second launch point is situated at the Loch Chon campsite. It has toilets and changing facilities on site but can only be used by campers staying overnight.

on the banks of Loch Katrine, 5km further north. Bringing your own picnic is one of the best options here. Be sure to leave the environment as you find it. The national park doesn’t want scorch marks left on the ground, so think carefully about how best to prepare your own food, especially if that involves an open fire.

Wildlife

Perch and pike are often found on Loch Chon so it is popular with anglers. Brown trout can also be fished for here but only between 15th March and 6th October. Loch Chon is also a favourite location for open water swimming, not least because it is a sheltered haven amongst the hills.

Being so close to Loch Ard, keep a look out for similar wildlife, including hundreds of woodland birds, red squirrels, ospreys, roe deer and again if you are very lucky and up very early you might be graced with the sight of a capercaillie.

Other activities

Food stop

The Pier Cafe at Stronachlachar is something of an oasis, with nothing else nearby. It actually sits

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BELOW Looking south from Heron Island.

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LOCH EARN

17km long, 1.2km wide and 87m deep, Loch Earn is sandwiched between Stirlingshire and Perthshire. Go back 250 years ago and the common tongue in the area was Gaelic. All the church services were in Gaelic, and the first Gaelic bible was translated by a local minister. Today it is a stunning location for paddling, and if the wind picks up your downwind game is on.

The Lowdown

 (When paddling on nice days)  (If downwinding)

DISTANCE

Variety of options ranging 5–10km

PARKING

St Fillans: ordinary.skin.dividers Lochearnhead: trap.fears.enveloped

DIFFICULTY



LAUNCH A variety of lay-bys on the north side of the loch between St Fillans and Lochearnhead

WATER TYPE Inland open water

FAIR WEATHER ROUTE

P

ST FILLANS START

Loch Earn

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Background

Loch Earn lies on the border of Perthshire and Stirlingshire in central Scotland. One of two Munros, Ben Vorlich, has its summit high above the loch to the south. At the end of the loch in the east is the village of St Fillans and to the west is the village of Lochearnhead.

A brief history

Loch Earn is an area often referred to as the home of Rob Roy. There are crannog sites still visible at various locations on the loch that date back to the Bronze Age. It is thought that Loch Earn actually means ‘Irish loch’, perhaps in reference to when the kingdoms of Dalriada invaded from Ireland. The history of this is interesting as the Picts were a people whom even the Romans feared during their grand conquest of Europe.

The paddle

The easiest way to access Loch Earn is from the St Fillans side. There are parking lay-bys on the west side of the village and access on to the beach is easy along the paths from the lay-bys. It is a stony beach so take care with whatever craft you are carrying over it. It can be slippery when wet too. There are a variety of options on the loch once you have pushed out into the water. The River Earn can be paddled to Crieff and there are points to get out in Comrie as well as along the way. There are some weirs, which must be

ABOVE A slightly windy day out on the water.

avoided but can be easily portaged. If the wind is a blowing in the right direction, simply doing a downwind paddle is fantastic on the loch. The full length of the loch is almost exactly 10km from St Fillans to Lochearnhead. At Lochearnhead there are toilets at the car park. There are other points you can get out, including Drummond Trout Fish Farm and at designated campsites. One of the best things about Loch Earn is that there are plenty of places to get out on both sides, so dependent on wind speed you can choose where to leave a car.

Downwin d either way

DOWNWINDER ROUTE P START

P FINISH ST FILLANS

LOCHEARNHEAD

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At St Fillans paddling down the river isn’t really an option as there are many weirs. If you want to paddle the river a better option is further down. A common route is from Comrie down to Crieff. This is all mostly Grade 1 or 2 with some weirs that will need to be portaged.

Wildlife

Look out for kingfishers, herons, cormorants, ospreys (in summer), buzzards, red kites, kestrels, peregrines and sparrow hawks, mountain hares on the hills, as well as red deer and wild goats.

ABOVE A Starboard Allstar in action with Jim

from SUP 2 Summit. TOP Going for a cruise on a Sea Lion Otago.

Food stop

St Fillans Village Store makes the best sandwiches. Ideal after a long paddle. Lochearnhead Village Store has a slightly rough appearance and uneven floors, but the sausage rolls they supply with meat from local butchers are unbelievably good. The Mhor 84 restaurant, cafe and bar is 5km south of Lochearnhead but for cakes, pastries, breakfast, lunch or dinner it is an excellent choice.

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Other activities

Walk through Glen Ogle and take in the marvellous sights. This path is actually the old railway line that ran to Oban, which was closed in 1965. If you are the true outdoor adventurer then you can’t leave Scotland without climbing a Munro. Ben Vorlich is on the south side of the loch and is a brilliant mountain with stunning views.

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THE EAST The east coast of Scotland is a different realm to the west. It’s all cliff face, sunrise and castles. With more whisky distilleries than you can imagine, and towns and cities teeming with life, there is plenty to explore. From Nairn to Fraserburgh with Aberdeen round the corner, south to Dundee and St Andrews, and Edinburgh further on, there is place upon place to discover. The A90 road takes you from Fraserburgh to Edinburgh and passes through arable land galore and the home of potato farming in Scotland, Angus. There is a lot of paddling to be done near and around the east coast of Scotland. I’ve started this section at Nairn and followed the coastline all the way to Rosyth on the opposite side of the Firth of Forth from Edinburgh. That’s well over 400km of coastline to contend with so there are plenty of options between Moray, Banffshire, Aberdeenshire, Angus and Fife. I’ve picked out some great paddling places but left many excellent paddling spots untouched. There are some fantastic stretches of river in this region but here I have mostly focused on coastal trips – with a special mention for the River Dee because it reminds me of visiting my grandparents as a youngster in Aberdeen. BELOW Ready to rock.

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There are some wonderful providers in this part of Scotland including Paddle Bliss Nairn, Blue Coast Cullen, Aquaplay Scotland, Granite Adventures and SUP 2 Summit, just to name a few. All offer their own special trips, guides and places to visit all over Scotland. You’ll never be too far from someone who will be able to take you on or at least help you to plan a trip when you visit the east side of Scotland. RIGHT Montague West cruising the arch at Bow Fiddle Rock.

ANECDOTE FROM THE EAST The coastal paddles of the east coast are amazing. Whales and dolphins regularly cruise past the coast here and it is always worth coming here for that chance you might get lucky and see humpback or minke whales. I came to Portknockie a few years ago with friends to check out Bow Fiddle Rock. We spent ages Googling and thinking about where we wanted to go. We had spent several days on the west coast so fancied getting out of the rain and driving further east to visit the usually drier side of Scotland. They say it rains two out of three days in the west and only one out of three days in the east so chances are it was going to be dry. On arrival in Addison Street in Portknockie, we walked down the track to the pebbly beach and could see the tops of the cliffs and the arch that stuck up out of the North Sea’s floor. It was a very calm day and the sun was splitting the sky so we gladly left the car and walked down to check how easy it would be to launch the kayak into the water. High tide was definitely the way to go so I was glad that we had checked before arriving. Seaweed littered the stony beach and the noise of a humungous amount of birdlife was close by, although not overly visible from the beach. The giant arc of Bow Fiddle Rock is a beautiful sea feature that is unlike anything else I can think of around the Scottish coast. There are many rocks and islands around the shore here too, so lots of room for exploring. On a rough day, however, it is definitely to be avoided as the shallow sharp rocks can present a risk in a big swell or low tides. Paddling out into the bay allows you to get right in underneath the arc. Whilst we were there, a juvenile black guillemot was swimming round, distressed about having fallen out of its nest further up the cliff. Hopefully he figured out how to get back home. Through the arch the sea swell was obviously larger, so the paddleboarders stayed in the bay and cruised in and around the rocks looking for signs of lobster and crab in the clear waters below. My favourite part of this outing was paddling through the arc and turning back west to a large white bird-covered rock. The noise from the seabirds there was deafening and it was amazing to see so many up close. We kept our distance so as not to force sunbathing shags and cormorants to give up their spots. We were in and out of the water, but spent plenty of time just sitting around the beach and enjoying the sun. Some days paddling hardly any distance at all is the best way to enjoy a place in the company of friends.

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09

ARBROATH CLIFFS

Have you ever seen the colours that shine back out of a cave from the sea? The incredible scenery within the cliffs off the coast of Arbroath seems designed for sunny days when the swell is low and the pressure high. When the sea is calm there is no better place to be.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



(Sea and tidal knowledge important)

PARKING/LAUNCH Arbroath Cliffs car park WATER TYPE Sea

DISTANCE 3–5km

Background

Arbroath is on the east coast of Scotland, around 30 minutes east of Dundee. It is a beautiful harbour town, and the largest town in the county of Angus. You probably don’t need to be reminded of the famous Arbroath smokie – haddock smoked over a wooden fire, a well-known delicacy all over the world. Something else that deserves a mention is Bell Rock Lighthouse, which isn’t actually in the town, but 18km out into the water. It was built in 1811 by Robert Stevenson and was the first lighthouse

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DEIL’S HEID

P START ARBROATH CLIFFS

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ABOVE An adventure out of the water. RIGHT Looking out to sea.

in the world to be built where it would be submerged at high tide. A paddle here would be fairly epic and sea conditions would need to be very, very good, even for the advanced sea kayaker.

A brief history

Arbroath boasts lots of famous heritage, including the signing of the Declaration of Arbroath, a letter written to the Pope on behalf of King Robert the Bruce. This was sent several years after he was crowned King of Scotland after defeating the English at Bannockburn in 1314. The famous phrase in this letter is: ‘As long as but a hundred of us remain alive, never will we on any conditions be brought under English

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rule. It is in truth not for glory, nor riches, nor honours that we are fighting, but for freedom – for that alone, which no honest man gives up but with life itself.’

The paddle

At the end of Victoria Park there is plenty of parking offering fairly easy access on to the beach via the side stairs. Be careful here as seaweed often covers the steps and can be slippery. On entry to the water paddlers should arc round to the left, due north, and follow the coastline up to a large standing stone. En route, if you stop around halfway, there is a rock with the appearance of King Kong’s face. Travel up to the standing stone and it allows for an adventure out of the water. This trip is great if embarked upon by paddleboard because there are lots of opportunities for getting on and off the board to explore. There is a trail to a shelter, though nobody knows who by, although it has been completed in relatively modern times. There are many caves to explore on this route and if the tides and swell are working in your favour you will be able to go in and out of each cave. The colours are incredible when the sun shines so if you catch this on a beautiful day it will be a fantastic paddle. The Deil’s Heid is a good marker to note for the halfway point, and from there you can return to the start.

ABOVE My nautical gateway to Narnia. BELOW A glimpse of the sea from inside the caves.

LEFT Arbroath Abbey. BELOW Look out for dolphins jumping from the water.

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Wildlife

If you visit Arbroath Abbey look out for the family of foxes that live around the grounds. Arbroath being a sea town, all the usual gulls and birdlife should be looked out for too. Minke whales, dolphins, porpoises and seals all pass the coast regularly.

Food stop

If seafood is your thing, The Old Boatyard Seafood Restaurant is a must-visit when in Arbroath. Being in Angus it would be rude not to visit The Grill 21 for the king of the steaks. Arbroath Fisheries provides samples to try – Arbroath’s smoked fish is world renowned.

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Other activities

If Scottish history is your thing, then a visit to Arbroath Abbey is an absolute must to soak in the atmosphere of a once mighty place that held great significance to the old kings and queens of a Scotland. Monikie Country Park is a 20 minute drive from Arbroath. With plenty of walking routes and adventure activities in the summer months as well as facilities to hire it could be worth a visit.

BELOW Arbroath Cliffs make for dramatic photos.

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CATTERLINE BAY TO STONEHAVEN

Calm and exciting at the same time, whilst full of history and drama through the ages Catterline is now a haven for birdlife. If you paddle north, the ruins of Dunnottar Castle looks down, almost as if waiting to take part in another battle. Visit on a good day and you may feel as if you are still dreaming.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY





(Sea and tidal knowledge important)

DISTANCE

8–10km

STONEHAVEN Dunnottar X Castle

PARKING At harbour if possible, Catterline School in summer

LAUNCH

Catterline Harbour

WATER TYPE Sea

Caves X

CATTERLINE

LEFT Only jump if you want to get wet.

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Background

Catterline is a beautiful bay and fishing village in the north east of Scotland with fewer than 100 residents, roughly 8km south of Stonehaven. The village itself is a gathering of houses that wrap around the shingle bay. Close by is Dunnottar Castle, which is better known because of its grand stature 50 metres above the menacing sea below. The coastline here is a photographer’s dream, with cliffs, sea and castles, plus the opportunity to capture the incredible sunrise the east coast offers. Catterline has become known for being the launch point for paddleboard sea tours by James Wight at SUP 2 Summit, a local outdoor activity centre.

A brief history

A lot of the local history of the area surrounding Catterline Bay and Stonehaven of course comes from Dunnottar Castle. History of Picts dating back thousands of years shows life existed in and around where the remains of the castle stand today. Along came Saint Ninian who, on his missionary conquest in the fifth century, shared the gospel with the Picts and converted them to Christianity. Several hundred years later and it was because of William Wallace and the national resistance he stirred up that more than 4,000 English soldiers ended up being burned alive

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inside the church. The castle was rebuilt and burned to the ground several times throughout history, often in feuds between the Scottish and the English.

The paddle

Catterline Bay is protected and sheltered initially by a large pier. There is easy access off the beach here but limited parking either at the harbour or in the small car park on the road behind the Creel Inn. Residents would prefer if you parked at the school during weekends and holidays. It’s a short walk down to the harbour from there. The first part of this route follows the dramatic cliff face north to Dunnottar Castle. There are caves to explore and on a calm day with low swell you can enter these and check out the nooks and crannies around the battered rock faces. Dunnottar Castle sits high above the cliff and you get a tremendous and unique view up to it from the sea. It’s clear from the water why it was built there as a defensive fort. It would have been very difficult to attack from the sea. En route there are lots of small shingle and sandy beaches where you can stop, perhaps for a bite to eat. The end of the paddle brings you into the harbour at Stonehaven. Dependent on wind

BELOW Looking for whales at sunset.

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.

speed and sea swell, the paddle could be completed in either direction or as a round trip. If in doubt, speak to local guides or book a tour. The sea around here can be wild at the best of times and if you get swept offshore the next stop is Denmark. Another thing to think about before launching from here is the sea haar, the coastal fog. If you are up early to take in the sunrise, it’s worth keeping your eyes peeled on the horizon. If it drops below 10°C overnight in the spring or summer then the haar will almost certainly appear as the day warms. According to the Met Office, the severity and location of the fog generally depends on weather conditions such as wind strength and direction so be sure to check on those before embarking on this sea adventure.

Wildlife

This paddle passes the RSPB reserve at Fowlsheugh. It is the largest mainland seabird colony on the east coast of Scotland and the cliffs here are home to over 130,000 breeding seabirds during the spring and summer months. Guillemots, razorbills and kittiwakes all hog the cliffs with puffins and fulmars trying to find their own space too. Keep an eye at sea level for grey seals and dolphins too.

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ABOVE The caves at Catterline.

Food stop

The Creel Inn is the only pub in Catterline and serves fresh fish caught in the bay along with its traditional and modern menus. It offers a fantastic collection of whiskies and beer. It is a good place to try some of Scotland’s whiskies, but only when you have finished the paddle. Stonehaven’s northern harbour wall brings you to the Tolbooth Seafood Restaurant, a wonderful local restaurant with fantastic cuisine.

Other activities

At SUP 2 Summit’s centre nearby you can book SUP lessons, take tours, and try rock climbing and axe throwing. If you’re going to see Dunnottar Castle by sea, have a go at seeing it by land too. Owned and operated by Dunecht Estates, the castle’s ticket prices start from £4.50 for children. For wild swimmers, Stonehaven actually has its own open air swimming pool. The Olympic pool is an unusual addition for a cold Scottish town, but don’t worry, the pool is heated to 29°C.

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Visit at sunrise for an awe-inspiring paddle.

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MONTROSE BAY AND BASIN

A surfer’s spot for catching the swell of the North Sea, Montrose Bay can also be calm when it wants to be. The basin offers paddlers shelter from the North Sea. Perhaps the best thing about Montrose is there is always somewhere to go, regardless of the conditions on the day you visit.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY  (Sea and tidal knowledge important) DISTANCE Varies PARKING

LAUNCH Montrose Beach swept.outlined.occupations

WATER TYPE Sea

Montrose Bay

BELOW Montrose Beach.

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Background

The Angus town of Montrose is around 50km north of Dundee. It is a picturesque town with a busy high street and lots of shops and cafes. Montrose Basin is a huge expanse of mudflats, which host a variety of sea and water birds at various times of the year. Indeed, over 100,000 migratory birds use the basin annually. This stopping point brings ornithologists from all over the UK to the basin in the hope of getting lucky enough to glimpse rare species passing over. The long beach at Montrose seafront runs north to south for 7km up to St Cyrus.

A brief history

Montrose was also designated a royal burgh back in 1352. The town itself is where John Balliol surrendered to King Edward I of England in 1296. He was later killed by Robert the Bruce, who claimed the Scottish throne. In more recent history, Montrose became famous for jute production. This was largely due to the scale of whale hunting in the eighteenth century and was supported by the numerous thriving jute mills in Dundee. Whale oil combined with the jute fibres made a very strong material that was used to create bags and sacks.

The paddle 1 ST CYRUS

MONTROSE BAY ROUTE

MONTROSE BEACH

MONTROSE BAY Montrose Bay looks north to Johnshaven and south to Scurdie Ness Lighthouse, which juts out into the sea and prevents you seeing further south. In a straight line St Cyrus is a 7km paddle to the far north of the beach. It is a beautiful coastal paddle with beach all the way, making it easy to get out when needed. When the sea is calm this makes it a good and easy place for beginners to get out on to the sea and have a paddle. If an onshore wind is blowing and there are waves in the bay it is an excellent location for SUP surf or kayak surfing. Regular east coast surfers float between Lunan Bay and Montrose Bay when looking for a surf. There will be many surfers out looking for their waves too. Lunan Bay has strong rip currents so you need to be at least an intermediate level surfer before tackling the water there. Both the North and South Esk Rivers flow into the sea on the north and south side of Montrose. Be careful if crossing these estuaries to ensure you don’t get pushed out into the North Sea. TOP RIGHT Montrose houses on the banks of the South Esk River. RIGHT Scurdie Ness lighthouse and Montrose Bay.

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The paddle 2 MONTROSE BASIN The Basin is part of the estuary of the South Esk River and on a high tide, in the correct conditions, sheltered but shallow. It is a great place to paddle when the tide is in but on a low tide most of the basin is free of water other than what is left of the river flow meandering out to sea. Paddling within the basin gives views over to the 440m Montrose railway bridge. The slipway at the bridge is also the launch point, and a good place to park. Even if you don’t have the confidence to go out on to the open sea yet, the basin is a brilliant place for beginners. Bring binoculars for a spot of bird watching, but be mindful around the edges of nesting birds in the spring.

Wildlife

There will be waders and birdlife galore. Eiders, pink-footed geese, mute swans, redshanks, lapwings, pintails and wigeons are just some of the many common birds seen around Montrose Basin. Dolphins, porpoises, minke, humpback and killer whales along with common and grey seals may be spotted off the coast too.

Food stop

If you are after a BLT sandwich then Candy’s, Montrose is the place to go! If you want a big breakfast or brunch before you start, the Pavillion Cafe, Montrose is worth checking out. A paddle up the beach from Montrose to St Cyrus can take you to the Old Bakery Coffee Shop, St Cyrus where cake is king.

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MONTROSE BASIN ROUTE

START/FINISH

River Esk

Other activities

VisitScotland give the Scottish Wildlife Trust a 4 star rating and members can get access to Montrose Basin Visitor Centre for free. Panoramic views across the basin are good for bird watchers. There is also a small cafe for hot drinks plus a wildlife-themed gift shop for all ages. Visit Scotland describes St Cyrus National Nature Reserve this way: ‘With its towering volcanic cliffs, swathes of beautiful beach, breathtaking displays of wildflowers and an unbelievable variety of insects and birds, St Cyrus is one of the richest and most diverse nature reserves in Britain.’ For paddleboarding tours, axe throwing, rock climbing and more, head for SUP 2 Summit. Their paddleboarding tours are a great way to explore the volcanic cliffs and see the coast from a new angle. The staff and team are very welcoming and friendly and will be delighted to have you. Their base is a 20 minute drive from the town. Check out: www.sup2summit.com.

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ABOVE The viaduct over the bay at Montrose.

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BELOW The bay on a calmer day.

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THE RIVER DEE, BANCHORY TO MARYCULTER

The old playground of Victoria and Albert, Deeside is a stunning location – a river that has it all. Fight your way through Grade 3 rapids or enjoy a more gentle paddle back to Aberdeen. Keep your eyes peeled for flashes of blue kingfishers on your way.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



DISTANCE

17km

PARKING

Bellfield Public Parking



(River knowledge advised)

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LAUNCH

Banchory

WATER TYPE Grade 1/2

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MARYCULTER FINISH

BANCHORY START

Background

The fifth longest river in Scotland, the River Dee stretches 140km. It starts its journey on Braeriach in the Cairngorms National Park, at over 1,200m the highest starting point of any major river in the British Isles, and finishes its journey on reaching the North Sea at Aberdeen. It has always been famous for salmon fishing and in autumn the bronze

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and golden leaves that line the river’s edge really bring it to life. As it runs to the coast the river passes through Braemar, Ballater, Aboyne and Banchory before reaching its estuary.

BELOW Paddling is a great way to get out and enjoy the autumn colours.

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A brief history

Queen Victoria and Prince Albert both loved their visits to the Balmoral Estate which of course sits right on the River Dee, east of Ballater. Victoria made many visits around beautiful places in the Dee Valley. Often she would paint or draw, enjoying the local countryside and escaping the busyness of booming industrial London. In the 1800s and early 1900s the river was the best place to fish for salmon, but deforestation has contributed to a steep fall in their numbers. It is still a fantastic river to fish but not like days gone by. However, there are now projects working to plant over one million trees on the banks of the Dee to restore it to its former fishing glory.

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The paddle

Most of the River Dee can be paddled, with most of it being Grade 1/2 with some Grade 3 sections on high water at the Linn of Dee. The short section between Banchory and Maryculter is Grade 1 with some 2 and takes in 17km of paddling that can be done at almost any time of the year. Enter the river at the Bridge of Feugh at Banchory. Beware of the rapids that run in on the Water of Feugh. A fast Grade 2 rapid is created on the join with a large boulder on the left bank. After this section, there are Grade 1 rapids but also calm meandering river until you reach Maryculter. The best place to get out is on the banks below the bridge. Access back to the road is via the church beside Corbie Bank playing field.

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ABOVE Still waters provide perfect reflections. LEFT A beautiful day on the Dee.

Wildlife

From otters to water voles, ospreys to Atlantic salmon, the River Dee has wildlife galore. So also look out for the protected freshwater pearl mussel, northern blue damselfly, pine marten, red squirrel and perhaps even the odd sight of a crested tit in the pine forests.

Food stop

Raemoir Garden Centre in Banchory has monster scones and meringues and they are amazing. Birdhouse Cafe is close to the start of the paddle, offering speciality coffee and food. If breakfast/brunch and sweet treats

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are needed before you start then this is the place to go. On finishing the paddle The Bieldside Inn, Milltimber, offers fantastic cocktails and wine, local craft beer on draught and an extensive gin selection.

Other activities

Crathes Castle is a sixteenth century castle owned by the National Trust for Scotland, with beautiful walled gardens and nature trails to explore, painted ceilings and family portraits of those who lived in the castle in days gone by. It is a typical example of a Scottish tower house. Scolty Hill, just south of Banchory, is 300m high with a 20m tower on the top. On a clear day it has some fantastic views over the Dee Valley and Grampian Mountains.

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PORTKNOCKIE, BOW FIDDLE ROCK

A big old rock with its own arch to paddle through and explore, plus bird life aplenty and Instagram shots galore. It probably isn’t the first place a long-distance paddler would consider, but on the other hand it’s a great picnic spot on a calm day.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



(High tide needed for paddle)

DISTANCE Short trip around the rock, 5km



PARKING Limited parking on Patrol Road illogical.tips.topics LAUNCH Follow path from end of Addison Street to beach

return trip to Culle

WATER TYPE Open ocean

Background Bow Fiddle Rock X

P PORTKNOCKIE

Bow Fiddle Rock is a beautifully formed natural arch carved out by the incredible force of the North Sea as it has battered the Moray coast over many years in stormy weather. The rock formation sits off of the coast of Portknockie village, which nestles itself between Buckie and Cullen. It is a stunning part of Scotland that from the water feels even more special when you take in the crowing cormorants and shags

CULLEN

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that hog the cliffs around the shoreline of Portknockie Bay.

The paddle

This route is best attempted around high tide to give you easy access into the water from the beach. At low tide it is much more difficult, with big boulders to clamber over on the beach. At high tide it is also easier to paddle in and around the rock pools and formations around the arch. Paddling through the arch is perfectly possible on calm days. This is definitely a day to bring your camera. The coastline and rock formations are truly stunning. Going around the rock pools allows close-up encounters with the many sea birds, but it’s important to keep a distance during nesting seasons. Through the north side of Bow Fiddle’s arch the sea opens up. To the east you will be able to see Cullen town, and the long golden sands around the coast will capture the eye too. This laidback paddle is ideal for a day when you just want to chill out and take in everything around you. The sea is often calm within the bay but as soon as you leave, the sea chop is more apparent.

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ABOVE It wouldn’t be Scotland without a thistle! BELOW The view over Cullen.

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For anyone looking for more of a day out, a paddle round the cliffs to Cullen and back can be done quite comfortably in the right weather. By kayak it is easier to access the water from Cullen beach and complete the circuit in reverse.

Wildlife

There are seabirds galore, including cormorants, shags, guillemots, black guillemots, herring gulls, black headed gulls and many, many more. Pods of dolphins pass close to Bow Fiddle Rock every day as they make their way across Cullen Bay. It is not uncommon to be greeted by the odd curious seal and humpback and minke whales have been spotted off of the coast here, so if you’re lucky you may see some.

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Food stop

If you like fish soup, then Lily’s Kitchen Cafe is the place to go. They were Cullen Skink World Champion in 2018. Heading to nearby Cullen allows you to enjoy the delights of Rockpool Cafe, with a fantastic menu for a perfect lunch.

Other activities

Walk the Cullen Viaduct – the old railway viaduct closed in 1968, but gives amazing views out across the bay, where you can see all the great paddle spots around the coast. If you fancy a bash at surfing, check out Blue Coast Surf and Paddle. They also do coastal tours and trips around the rock. BELOW The back of Bow Fiddle.

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NAIRN

Nairn’s white sand stretches for over 20km and has stunning views north across the Moray Firth. If you have the kids in tow, the beach is perfect for building sand castles and eating ice cream before and after paddling.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



DISTANCE

Varies



WATER TYPE Open ocean

(Sea knowledge needed) 

PARKING/LAUNCH Parkdean Holiday Resort, Nairn Harbour

Background

Nairn is an ancient fishing port and market town now regarded as one of Scotland’s most popular seaside resorts with two golf courses and award-winning beaches. It’s a fantastic place to spot seals and dolphins. Basking sharks have been known to visit the local shores too. Whilst here enjoy the views north to Caithness

su

rf

START/FINISH

P

NAIRN

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and Sutherland. The double pointed cap of Caithness’ highest mountain Morvern can be seen with the three humps of Scaraben beside it. Nairn has a population of 10,000 and welcomes thousands of visitors each year to enjoy the miles of beautiful sandy beaches. Paddleboarding across Moray has become very popular recently because of its extensive coastline and good access to the sea and surrounding rivers and lochs. There are plenty of areas to launch from, including Nairn harbour. On the west side there are lots of opportunities to catch the surf, whilst the east beach is calmer and provides super sunrise paddles.

The paddle

Parkdean Holiday Resort is a short walk from the best place to launch for a gentle paddle in the lagoon. Parking at the Links car park will allow you to launch from

ABOVE A Gladiator 11’2 Pro ready for action. LEFT Looking west along the beach on the Moray Firth.

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the central beach, which is the perfect spot for a sunset paddle. You can paddle over to the old bar and stop there for a tea or coffee or even your own picnic. Be aware it does get very busy in summer, though. From there you can paddle west, where you can go looking for sea creatures in the rock pools or if you’re feeling super fit, carry on paddling through to what is considered locally a secret beach. It’s not so much of a secret these days, however. Continue west from there, past the fisherman’s bothy, on to Ardersier via Fort George and Chanonry Point (around 16km) and you will no doubt spott many dolphins along the way. The tides can be strong in these areas so be sure to check them before going out.

Food stop

Basil Harbour Cafe serves amazing breakfasts and various other edible delights. The Strathnairn Beach Cafe serves their famous fish tacos. The kids can play at the splash pad located beside the cafe, which was created in memory of Hamish Hey, who died aged 8 in 2016. Camilla, then Duchess of Cornwall, officially opened the splash pad in 2021, and it is a very popular tourist attraction.

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ABOVE The joys of paddleboarding in the sea. LEFT The magnificent blues of the Moray Firth.

The Sun Dancer Bar & Restaurant is a great option beside the harbour, providing an extensive range of delicious fish dishes you can tuck into whilst enjoying spectacular views.

Other activities

For SUP lessons or equipment hire, check out Paddle Bliss Nairn. Lessons are given at Geddes Trout Fishery just outside of Nairn, which boasts beautiful scenery and a small waterfall beside the paddling area that provides a relaxing atmosphere. Based in Lossiemouth, Moray SUP Club is a local club that can give you great advice about where to go when in the area. Cawdor Castle is a traditional Scottish castle with a five-star rating as a visitor attraction. Culloden Battlefield – there is no escaping the emotions Culloden evokes. This was the site of the last man to man battle fought on British soil. Moray Firth Sea Kayak Challenge is an annual downwind challenge run by Nairn Kayak Club every July.

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CENTRAL BELT AND TAYSIDE Glasgow, Edinburgh, Stirling, Perth, a little bit north and everywhere in between – the bit below the Highlands and above the Borders is where more than 75 per cent of the population of Scotland live. There are numerous bodies of water stretching from Bowling, below the Erskine Bridge and the city centre of Edinburgh and Fountainbridge in the east. The Forth & Clyde and Union canals stretch the entire span of the central belt, joined by the incredible Falkirk Wheel, the only rotating boat lift in the world. This incredible stretch of water has very few locks considering its length, especially between Glasgow Speirs Wharf and Falkirk. The Union Canal only has a couple leaving the Falkirk Wheel before running all the way east, with a few tunnels for extra excitement. These canals are essentially non-flowing but the water does move and sometimes quickly in high winds. The sheltered tree-lined banks allow for calm paddling for people who want to relax and unwind after a busy week without having to travel too far out of the city. The canal system in central Scotland was closed in 1963 and did not open again until 2001 because of the £85 million Millennium Link, the largest restoration BELOW The River Tay at Dunkeld.

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ANECDOTE FROM THE CENTRAL BELT AND TAYSIDE The obvious story here is to explain how Glasgow Paddleboarders Co came to be. In 2018, after several years of renting kit and avoiding kayaks after a nasty incident at university on a salmon ladder, I bit the bullet and bought an inflatable paddleboard. Truth is a good friend Stuart bought one the week before and I wanted to join in the adventures that he was planning and discussing. That very week I started Glasgow SUP Community, a Facebook group, which slowly grew to maybe 25 people. As the joy for the sport grew, so too did the numbers and within a year there were around 200 people sharing ideas and photos in and around the city. We would meet in small groups and go for social paddles together, learning from each other and giving each other board-envy. As the Facebook group grew, so too did a demand for lessons and people renting kit. I sought the advice of some big names in the Scottish Canoe Association and completed my entry-level coaching with Sandy Johnston on a very cold weekend at Balloch, on the south coast of Loch Lomond. The need for a drysuit became very apparent this weekend. The continuing debate surrounding use of buoyancy aids was very much around at the time, with surfers often opting to go without but canoeists struggling to understand why. Excellent guidance and training with Sandy helped me to see the canoeists’ take and shift my thinking away from my teenage years of surfing and bravado paddling. With training complete I started lessons in sheltered and calm waters, mostly from Auchinstarry Marina, Kilsyth. During the Covid pandemic, restrictions on travel forced people to look at their own doorstep and the influx of people heading to the water began. I completed Water Skills Academy training in 2021 and enjoyed the focus of very specifically SUP instructor training and coaching shortly followed by Adventure Guide training and assessment which enabled to me to coach and guide in much larger areas of water with differing wind and weather conditions. It has been a fast journey but one that has seen huge growth in participation in the sport. In August 2022 we held our first GBSUP Scottish Regional paddleboard race and had racers from all over Scotland and the north of England attend. The future of paddleboard racing is going to be exciting.

anywhere in Britain. The Falkirk Wheel was completed in 2002 and connected the Forth & Clyde Canal to the Union Canal for the first time in over 70 years. Whilst the creation of the canal dates back to 1763 it wasn’t actually opened until nearly 30 years later, in 1790. Its legacy is something that Scotland should be proud of. It has been exciting to see the use of the canal increase with inflatable paddleboards and kayaks helping watersports become more accessible and affordable for all. The canal aside, there are many rivers in the region, with the River Clyde driving through the centre of Glasgow, the River Forth meandering through Stirling, and the Teith leading down from Callander within the Loch Lomond and Trossachs National Park. Further north, the River Tay, Scotland’s longest river, comes from Loch Tay, travels through Dunkeld and Perth, before flowing into the sea at Dundee. Further east there are reservoirs and lochs that can also be explored.

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THE RIVER CLYDE

Scotland’s second longest river is 170km. Beginning in the Lowther Hills in South Lanarkshire, it winds its way through to Scotland’s biggest city, Glasgow. There is a famous saying in Scotland: ‘Glasgow made the Clyde and the Clyde made Glasgow.’ The river is Glasgow’s heart. However, it remains surprisingly underused for paddlesports, despite providing amazing views of buildings and 12 bridges to paddle under.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



(Tidal knowledge advised)

DISTANCE 9km PARKING

The Riverside Museum, Glasgow

LAUNCH

Slipway at museum

WATER TYPE Glasgow City Centre –

river estuary

Background

The River Clyde runs a long way from its source – 176km from source to sea. It passes through many towns and villages before arriving in Glasgow, a place that changed the Clyde, but then the Clyde also changed Glasgow. Paddling the Clyde is a different kind of paddle to the usual jaunt through a beautiful place. It is fun and lively not in terms of the water, but in the scenery and the industry of city around you. If you are more used to escaping to the country then this is a very different experience.

RIGHT A big board for a big guy. FAR RIGHT Paddling under the Finnieston Crane.

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A brief history The Clyde is arguably the most famous of the rivers in Scotland. It oozes history and drama, beginning with its deepening back in the 1700s. This was partly due to the boom in international trade. The river needed to be made bigger and deeper to allow larger vessels to get closer to the city centre instead of mooring at ports outside the city. Famous Scottish architects worked out how to it and during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries the river changed drastically. The boom of sugar and tobacco in the 1700s brought huge amounts of trade to the city but by 1812 the river was fully deepened. Ship building has existed on the Clyde since as far back as the fifteenth century TOP LEFT Posing at Riverside. BOTTOM LEFT Sunset over the Clyde. BELOW On the slipway at Riverside.

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but the deepening of the Clyde also allowed shipbuilding to advance, alongside the development of steam trains. By the end of the nineteenth century the Clyde’s shipyards were leading pioneers in ship development and construction for the Royal Navy. The Clydebank Blitz decimated the town in 1941. The production of ships and munitions had made it a target for the Luftwaffe. This actually led to the start of the decline of the ship trade and by the 1960s production was at an all-time low. There is still shipbuilding in and around the Clyde today but not on the same the scale as in the past. The industrialisation of the Clyde over many years led to poor water quality, meaning fish levels were low. Millions of pounds has been spent trying to clean up the water and improve its conditions. These days salmon freely swim up the river again and otters are regularly seen on the water above the weir from Glasgow Green.

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The paddle 1 CITY CENTRE CLYDE The tidal water is slow and can be easily paddled against but, for the best times and speeds, using the tide to travel into the city and then coming back out with the tide too makes it very enjoyable. The boat ramp on the west side of the Riverside Museum gives access to the estuary of the River Kelvin. Travelling east into the city one hour before high tide allows an easy paddle before returning on the outgoing tide. The Clyde can be paddled without using the tide but it is obviously more of an effort. On entering the water you can paddle east to the centre of the city, passing under some of Glasgow’s famous bridges. You will pass the buildings for BBC Scotland and STV and may make a lucky appearance on the news if you happen to be in the right place at the right time. The Finnieston Crane, a landmark of Glasgow’s skyline, still stands proud on the north shore. Beside it are both the SEC and the Hydro concert halls and venues. The M8 motorway, Scotland’s busiest road, travels over the Clyde. The

Squinty and Squiggly footbridges are passed under before the famous three-arch George V Bridge. Glasgow Bridge meanwhile is a seven-arched bridge built back in 1899. Victoria Bridge is the site of the oldest bridge in Glasgow. Dating back to the 1200s, the era of William Wallace. It was originally known as ‘Glasgow bryg’ but was renamed Bishop’s Bridge and then again renamed after Queen Victoria in the 1850s. The adjacent railway bridge known as Albert Bridge compliments Victoria Bridge. After Albert Bridge there is a large weir, which must be avoided. The beauty of this trip is that you get to go back under all 12 bridges on the return journey. Heading back around sunset gives stunning views up the Clyde. The masts of the tall ship Glenlee rise into the sky and mark the end point of the paddle.

Ersk Brid

CITY CENTRE CLYDE ROUTE Riverside Museum START

P

Finnieston Crane BBC Scotland

King George V Bridge

Victoria Bridge Weir

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The paddle 2

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Food stop

GLASGOW TO THE ERSKINE BRIDGE When there is an east wind, a great paddle on the Clyde, albeit along a route that is quite industrial, will take you from the Riverside Museum to the Erskine Bridge. If you combine the outgoing tide with an easterly wind then you can make the 10km journey down to the Erskine Bridge and then get out at Boden Boo car park underneath the bridge itself. Doing this around sunset will offer stunning views down to Greenock as well as up at the 45m bridge itself.

Wildlife

Seals are regularly seen in the city centre as they travel in with tides to catch fish. Further up otters can be seen in and around Glasgow Green. There are mute swans on the Clyde too.

The city of Glasgow is a hive of eateries. At the launch point there is a good cafe in the Riverside Museum. En route down the Clyde there are several ladders that can be used and the Hilton Garden Inn and Crowne Plaza can both be accessed via these.

Other activities If you are visiting Glasgow there are literally hundreds of visitor attractions. From George Square to Kelvingrove Park, plus Ibrox stadium and Celtic Park, which are the stadiums of local football teams and when they play, one of football’s oldest rivalries brings the city to life! If the ‘Old Firm’ is on when you’re in Glasgow, you will definitely know about it. Come and visit us at Glasgow Paddleboarders Co if you want to rent a paddleboard or go out on an adventure.

LEFT Paddling past the BBC. RIGHT A much underestimated urban paddle.

Erskine Bridge

P

GLASGOW TO THE ERSKINE BRIDGE ROUTE

Renfrew Golf Club

Braehead Shopping Centre

Riverside Museum START

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16

THE FIRTH OF FORTH

Scotland’s picture postcard paddle, taking in three bridges as well as shipping lanes and islands. The Firth of Forth is a ship’s gateway to Europe. Bring your camera for that all-important selfie under the bridges. The Forth Rail Bridge still stands as an absolute landmark and legacy of Scottish architecture on a grand scale, having shaped and changed the construction of bridges across the entire world.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY





(Tidal knowledge advised)

DISTANCE 5km

Background

The Firth of Forth emerges from the River Forth, which, at over 100km long starting from the east end at Loch Ard and slowly meandering its way down to Aberfoyle, is a relatively long river, the sixth longest in Scotland. The river ploughs through farmland and forestry plantations before joining the River Teith just outside Stirling and then wending its way further around the Wallace Monument and Stirling Castle, passing Alloa and entering the sea under the Kincardine Bridge, before changing name to the Firth of Forth. The town of Bo’ness sits on the southern shore before the three bridges appear at Queensferry. The Forth Road, Queensferry Crossing and Forth Rail Bridge all help

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PARKING/LAUNCH The Binks WATER TYPE

Sea/river estuary

transport links between the capital city of Edinburgh and the Kingdom of Fife. It is a long and winding river and for any beginner paddlers an excellent place to start because of slow moving water. Heading into the sea it becomes more challenging, with tides to contend with, but from top to tail it has something for everyone.

A brief history

The river and firth splits Scotland into two halves geographically, the north being the Highlands and the south being the lowlands. Cattle drovers from the Highlands would come from far and wide to sell their black cattle at the markets in the south, only to be met with the problem of

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Forth Road Bridge

Queensferry Crossing

ABOVE The Forth Rail Bridge.

Travel with the tide

START/FINISH

P QUEENSFERRY

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Forth Rail Bridge

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getting the cows across the river or forth. The building of the Forth Rail Bridge really put this area of Scotland on the map and it was voted Scotland’s greatest manmade wonder in 2016. At the time of opening it was the longest single cantilever bridge span in the world. Ferries have always traditionally been used to transport goods north and south, but the building of the bridge changed things drastically. During the world wars, Inchgarvie Island below the bridge was supposedly painted, as its colour and profile make it look like a small warship from a distance. The bridge was never bombed during the wars, though. Perhaps surprisingly so, given it was key to the transport of goods across Scotland.

The paddle

An hour before high tide is the best time to tackle the three bridges. It ensures that the tide is at its least strong and gives you the best chance to get out again in calm water. Be aware of boat traffic

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and check the shipping channels before entering the water. Launching from the Binks car park is ideal as it starts between the rail and road bridge, giving great views of both. If you want to paddle under all three of the bridges then the Queensferry Crossing is the furthest stretch out. There is something quite exciting about being so close to, and underneath, the Forth Rail Bridge. It is a masterpiece that was a catalyst for engineering on a grand scale, and well worth the trip. Inchgarvie Island can also be paddled to and around.

Wildlife

Seals and dolphins frequent the Firth of Forth. Watch out for swooping gannets and puffins fishing. They live on the Isle of May in the summer and will come up the Forth to look for food. Cormorants, shags, kittiwakes, razorbills and guillemots are all found in these waters too.

Food stop

The Boat House is a fantastic seafront restaurant with an extensive seafood menu. Set away from the seafront, Dakota Bar and Grill offers a range of food for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Fancy a taste of Canada? Down the Hatch is a Canadian themed restaurant that does incredible sandwiches and burgers.

Other activities

ABOVE ‘I moustache you a question!’ LEFT Looking west from South Queensferry towards the Forth Road Bridges.

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Craigies Farm, Deli Cafe and Farm Park is the ultimate foodie destination, a place to pick your own that also provides a fun space for the kids. Just a stone’s throw from Edinburgh, it is a refreshing rural escape that provides something for everyone. Deep Sea World, North Queensferry has a spectacular underwater tunnel and the opportunity to come face to face with one of Europe’s largest collection of sand tiger sharks. Well worth a visit for all fish fans.

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THE RIVER FORTH

With many different points to enter the river and lots of places to paddle, the River Forth has something for everyone. But for those who have taken up paddlesports for a slow, relaxing meander, the River Forth is somewhere you have to visit.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY





(Tidal knowledge important)

DISTANCE Varies (see routes below)

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PARKING/LAUNCH Varies WATER TYPE

River

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Background

The River Forth is Stirling’s river. It proudly but gracefully Only do this loop dominates the space below with high tide both the Wallace Monument and Stirling Castle. It slowly travels here from Loch Ard, joining up with the River Teith at Stirling Mart. The entire river is classed as Grade 1 so is a fantastic starting place for beginner kayakers, canoeists or START/FINISH paddleboarders who want to P river paddle without the white Forth Valley water smash. From the eastern College slopes of Ben Lomond, you can make your way to Loch Ard before leaving the river on the east coast, on the opposite side of the country. The river essentially is the drain for most of the central belt in Stirlingshire, and with the land being so flat, it slowly meanders its way to the sea without a care in the world.

A brief history

ABOVE AND LEFT A Glasgow

Paddleboarders club night.

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As a town Stirling is famous because of the Wars of Scottish Independence between Scotland and England. A royal castle stands over the town, perched high on the cliffs as a lookout point from days gone by. The castle dates back to the eleventh century. This was fought over regularly between the Scots and English in the late 1200s and early 1300s, changing hands many times. The river was made famous in 1297 when William Wallace used the location to his advantage at the Battle of Stirling Bridge, defeating the English, to the dismay of Edward Longshanks. A man determined to fly jumped from the walls of the castle in the 1500s, landing in a dung pile, luckily only breaking his leg and not suffering worse injuries. For a long time there was a harbour on the river, which was a very

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important landing place to get exports from far and wide into Scotland. Coal and lime were brought up the river by small boats. The harbour stopped functioning after the Second World War because of road infrastructure improvements.

The Paddle

There are lots of routes that can be followed on the Forth and suitable entry points can be found up and down its length. Stirling – Shore Road run – 15km Launch – unity.fluid.zone Entering the river from the pontoon off Shore Road is possible with bookings via www.yourstirling.com/river-forth-pontoon/. Your booking will get you an access code for the gate, which in turn allows free launching. The river is best paddled an hour or so before high tide to allow for travelling upstream. If you paddle north 7km the river splits in two and forms a large island between its arms, which can be paddled around at high tide. If the river is low, it is best to stay on the left (the north) side when the fork first appears. Further up there is a small rapid that cannot be paddled, so this is the turnaround point. This relaxed paddle is best suited to taking your time and enjoying the views. On the way back, with the river flow, the Wallace Monument and Stirling Castle remain in full view. The meanders in the river take you around a lot of Stirling and under five bridges, albeit two are beside each other and are separate train lines.

ways to get in and out at different places. The trip all the way south to South Alloa is 16km. The views on leaving Stirling change. At South Alloa there is an island called Alloa Inch, or Inch Island. It used to be a farm but was abandoned and is now maintained by the Scottish Wildlife Trust. Opposite O-I Manufacturing (a large glass-making factory) at South Alloa there is a ramp to leave the river. Island Loop – 5km fights.hospitals.sublime For a shorter but just as pleasant a journey by paddleboard, you can enter the river at the back of Forth Valley College in Stirling. Access is easy via the riverbanks at high tide. The route allows you to make a loop of the island, but is probably not best suited to kayak or canoe. Aberfoyle south – 40+km Launch – siblings.bonding.bits The route from Aberfoyle to Stirling is quite long but not particularly difficult. It is a Grade 1 river all the way to Stirling. You will pass through lots of farmland and forestry. There is easy access into the river from the riverside car park in Aberfoyle. From here you cover nearly all of the river, so you will need to bring lunch or stop off for food along the way.

Wildlife

Oystercatchers and different species of ducks and waders are often found in the river. At high tide seals can often be spotted before the rapids after the river splits before the island.

South Alloa – 16km Launch – from Shore Road Exit – rainy.upgrading.taped If you travel south on the river you can follow the meanders of the river, with easy

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RIGHT Your author under the castle.

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Food stop

Marston’s Inns very own Highland Gate. The perfect location for some food post-paddle. River House Stirling is a beautifully located restaurant with a water fountain and outdoor seating. If desserts are your thing, a short walk from Shore Road will take you to Flip N Shake. They serve everything from doughnut cheesecake to blueberry-stuffed waffles and cake jars.

Other activities

The ancient Stirling Castle looks grand when viewed from the cliff, but exploring it from the inside is just as exciting. Fancy seeing a lion, an elephant or a tiger in Scotland? Just 15 minutes from Stirling lies Blair Drummond Safari Park. A fantastic day out for all ages. Briarlands Farm is especially good for younger children who want to have fun on the farm or pick their own strawberries.

BELOW Keep an eye out for otters around here.

P START

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THE RIVER TEITH

Scottish stories help give visitors to the River Teith a sense of awe and wonder. For time travellers, or perhaps just fans of Outlander, it is a wonderful place to visit, but for everyone else too it offers a delightful meandering paddle through the Stirlingshire countryside.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



 or 

DISTANCE 10km PARKING

P START

X Deanston Distillery

LAUNCH

Opposite Deanston Distillery

WATER TYPE Grade 1 river

envisage.plums.dragon

Background

Bridge of Teith

X Blair Drummond Safari Park

The River Teith is a Grade 1 paddle from the Deanston Distillery to just before the M90, which is a good place to get out. It is possible to paddle down from Callander but sections of the river are Grade 2 and 3 and dangerous weirs make it more difficult to navigate. There are portages, though the forest on the left of the river can be tricky. The right of the river is trickier, though, with barbed wire and walls preventing easy access back into the river. Loch Lubnaig and Loch Venachar flow into each other at the start of the river, joining

River For

th

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FINISH

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just before Callander before meeting the Forth at Stirling Mart.

A brief history

In Scotland there are many tales of fairies holding dancing parties. This is particularly the case around the River Teith, where there have been lots of reported sightings of ‘the faeries’. Faeries are private creatures, not always taking human form and sometimes birdlike instead. A burial ground near the Bridge of Teith is said to be the haunt of many a fairy so be careful what you talk about at that section of the river. They listen in carefully to all that is said and then make their judgements. On a less legendary note, Deanston Distillery was opened in 1965. The building was originally constructed in 1785 by the Buchanan brothers and the river powered a mill that allowed machines to weave cotton. At the top of its game it employed over 1,500 people.

BELOW Out with Uncle Alan.

The paddle

The river runs fairly quickly down past the distillery in a straight line. It can be shallow so check the depth before launching. After the Bridge of Teith the river deepens and calms and allows for very easy, relaxed paddling all the way to an ideal exit point just before the M80 road crosses the river. It is a beautiful route through farmland and natural forest, passing Doune Castle, which has been a location for filming the likes of Monty Python, Game of Thrones and Outlander. After this the river passes Blair Drummond Safari Park. You may well hear strange noises along this section of the river coming from animals in the park. Keep your eyes peeled for unusual birds of prey being flown as part of demonstrations put on by park staff. The river runs alongside a smaller loch that birds fly over throughout the day. You can get out of the river about 800 metres past the point where the Forth and Teith join.

Wildlife

Atlantic Salmon, lampreys and freshwater pearl mussels are all internationally protected species and live on the River Teith. The lampreys (if you don’t know what it is, perhaps don’t look it up) in the river create better nesting conditions for the salmon and mussels, keeping the water a cleaner and better habitat for the fish. Projects are ongoing on the river to protect these species. Dippers are often seen jumping around the rocks. Keep an eye out for the blue flash of a kingfisher.

Food stop

If you like a tray bake (which, let’s face it, after a paddle we all do…) then the Buttercup Cafe is your go-to in Doune. The Coffee Bothy Cafe (Blairmans Farm Shop) has something for everyone, whether breakfast, lunch, tea, coffee and cake.

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Other activities

Doune Castle is the famous Scottish castle used for filming shows such as Monty Python, Game of Thrones and Outlander. Deanston Whisky Distillery is an excellent place to take a tour and discover how they make their delicious Scotch whisky.

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ABOVE Ben Ledi, near Callander.

After you have been shown around, you’ll have the chance to sample some of the hand-crafted single malts.

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19

THE FORTH AND CLYDE CANAL

Scottish Canals have created a canoe trail that runs from Glasgow to Edinburgh and it is a fantastic way to travel between Scotland’s two largest cities. It offers urban paddling as well as spectacular woodland and countryside through the heart of Scotland’s central belt. This stretch of water is used by kayakers, canoeists, paddleboarders and other boaters who live on the canal and by holidaymakers travelling from town to town on hire boats.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



(Sheltered flat water)

DISTANCE 87km PARKING

Varies (see routes)

LAUNCH

• Glasgow Speirs Wharf • Auchinstarry Marina • Falkirk Wheel • Falkirk Tunnel • Helix Park – Kelpies • Avonbridge Aqueduct • Edinburgh Fountainbridge



WATER TYPE Canal running from the Forth of

Clyde to the Firth of Forth and Falkirk to Edinburgh

LOCATION Glasgow to Edinburgh

RIGHT The Glasgow Paddleboarders Pikes Kids Club.

EDINBURGH

GLASGOW

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Background

This route takes in the Forth & Clyde and Union canals from Glasgow Speirs Wharf in the centre of Glasgow, travelling through the central belt to the capital city of Edinburgh. It is an interesting and varied route, which connects Scotland’s two largest cities, and allowed transport times to be massively reduced in the late 1700s. After leaving Glasgow it passes through Kirkintilloch, Falkirk, Polmont and Linlithgow before arriving in Scotland’s most famous city. The route travels along the Antonine Wall and is part of the John Muir Way, which runs from Helensburgh on the west coast all the way to Dunbar on the east coast. The entirety of the Forth & Clyde Canal is a wonderful section of water suitable for all types of paddlers at all level of ability, and with some key sites that shouldn’t be missed. Many of the sections of the canal are

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great to do as short day trips because the large banks and trees often block the wind. The leg from Auchinstarry to Twechar is a lovely stretch of water, looking through the Kelvin Valley. Easy paddles from Cadder Wharf in Bishopbriggs also take in strolling farmland towards Kirkintilloch. The canal in Glasgow around Speirs Wharf gives views over the city as it sits above the lower down section of the watersports centre at Pinkston. The Falkirk Wheel runs several SUP in the Sky events to give paddlers an opportunity to travel round the wheel in their own craft too. The views from the top are incredible, with vistas down to the Kelpies and east to the Forth road and TOP RIGHT The Kelpies between Falkirk and

Grangemouth. BOTTOM RIGHT Anomy is all about that colour. BELOW Speirs Wharf, Glasgow.

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rail bridges. It’s not unusual to see paddlers in and around the Kelpies but it is a short area of canal with locks only 750 metres apart here. The Union Canal is substantially narrower than the Forth & Clyde Canal but offers a straight paddle with no locks all the way to Fountainbridge in Edinburgh. If the canoe trail is something you would consider, the Avon Viaduct is amazing and takes you 26 metres above the surface of the river below. The town canal passes through the town centre of Linlithgow, famous for its palace and the birthplace of Mary, Queen of Scots. Some fantastic cafes in the town make it an excellent place to stop.

The paddle

There are many, many shorter routes that can be done on the canal and almost all bridges, locks or towns have easy access, with pontoons and lower canal walls allowing simple entry to the water. On the canal the water has next to no flow so when paddling on it, wind direction and speed are important to consider. Launching into the wind will give you an easy paddle back to the start. If you are paddling from A to B then going with the wind is going to make life a lot easier regardless of which sort of craft you are on. In the summer months the canal has a lot of plant growth both around and in the canal. If your craft has fins that run through the water be aware of drag that could be created by floating plant life, especially when travelling long distances. To complete the full trip cards advising the best route are available via the Scottish Canals website.

by clubs and elite athletes as well as the Scottish Fire Service. If white water is your thing then be sure to check out what they offer when you visit Glasgow. Antonine Wall The Forth & Clyde Canal runs along the entirety of the Antonine Wall, which is famous for being the most northernly wall built during the days of the Roman Empire. Historically it started just outside Bowling, the entrance to the Firth of Clyde, and finished in Bo’ness, the entrance to the Firth of Forth. The section between Twechar and Auchinstarry has lots of points of interest as there are forts on tops of the hills above the canal route. The forested banks also give very good shelter from prevailing south westerly winds, which TOP RIGHT Maryhill, Glasgow. BOTTOM RIGHT Falkirk Tunnel, above the Falkirk Wheel. BELOW The Falkirk Wheel.

HIGHLIGHTS TO VISIT ON THE FORTH & CLYDE CANAL Pinkston Watersports The white water centre at Pinkston offers a huge range of paddling activities and has been key to growth of paddlesports in and around Glasgow. It is used as a training facility

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The Forth and Clyde Canal looking over Kirkintilloch.

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makes the water very calm and sheltered to paddle on. Nethercroy Roman sculpture A sculpture of a giant head of a Roman named Silvanus sits below Croy Hill on one of the networks of paths that links in with the canal and the John Muir Way. It sits on the Antonine Wall World Heritage Site and was put there to raise awareness of the Roman history of the area. The sculpture looks out across the Kelvin Valley, towards barbarian territory, as the Romans called it. The Falkirk Wheel The Falkirk Wheel is an engineering marvel – the only rotating boat lift in the world. It connects the Forth & Clyde Canal with the Union Canal, linking the canal between Glasgow and Edinburgh. The Falkirk Tunnel The longest canal tunnel in Scotland at over 600m in length. You can paddle through this Victorian marvel and see the walls of what was once a dark and eerie place. Historically it was famous for all the wrong

BELOW The Pikes Kids Club huddles.

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reasons, with Burke and Hare being known to use it to transport corpses to the University of Edinburgh for medical testing. Avon Aqueduct The Avon Aqueduct allows the canal to travel over the top of the River Avon and at 26 metres high and 247 metres long it is the second longest agueduct in the UK. It was designed by Thomas Telford and Hugh Baird and completed in 1821. The water is 2 metres deep and 4 metres wide. The bridge itself is made up of mason arches and the water flows through an iron trough. Walks around the surrounding area allow you to see it from a different angle too. Fountainbridge, Edinburgh This can be both the start and the finish for your route. Fountainbridge was the birthplace of Sean Connery and also has Fountain Park a stone’s throw from the canal. This will be ideal for a last minute feed, or a final hurrah after finishing the route.

Wildlife

Otters, grey herons, buzzards, kingfishers and even the American mink (an invasive species) can sometimes be seen along this route. Pike, roach and perch are

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often fished for on the canal so you may spot them when the sun is shining down into the water. The list of birdlife on the whole stretch of the canal is endless.

Food stop

Speirs Wharf in Glasgow hosts Ocho, which offers a superb brunch, lunch and cocktail menu. They also make great coffee. Not to be missed. The Stables, Kirkintilloch, between Cadder Wharf, Bishopbriggs and Kirkintilloch Marina, is an excellent lunch stop with a pontoon opposite the beer garden. The Boathouse, Kilsyth, situated in Auchinstarry Marina provides a delightful breakfast, lunch or dinner menu. Friendly staff and a large beer garden make this perfect for warm summer days. The Park Bistro, Linlithgow, is a fantastic coffee house offering breakfast, lunch and dinner. They also do takeaway burgers from their van. A delight anyone would enjoy. Tea and Sympathy, Edinburgh is a 2 minute walk from the side of the canal. Very friendly staff at this little gem offer amazing cake and coffee. Well worth the walk.

Other resources

Scottish Canals have drawn up some excellent route cards and safety advice for paddling this stretch of the canal, whether you are planning to complete it all or just a smaller section. They also share details about local providers and guides. https://www.scottishcanals.co.uk/activities/ paddling/glasgow-edinburgh-canoe-trail/

Other providers

Glasgow Paddleboarders Co is an entire paddleboarding community, with water education at its core. We run trips and provide lessons to support people at the beginning of their SUP journeys and also have regular social paddles. On top of that we sell high quality kit too, and can help to

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ABOVE Doggy paddling at Auchinstarry.

advise you on the best board for the type of paddleboarding you are planning to do. Outdoor Trax offers a range of water and land based activities from the Falkirk Wheel. Central Scotland Adventures provides paddleboarding experiences to disadvantaged/socially excluded families, as well as neurodivergent people and injured service veterans. They are based in Auchinstarry, Kilsyth.

Other activities

The Falkirk Wheel Boat Trip – you can travel round the wheel by boat and take a trip through the Falkirk Tunnel. The Kelpies are giant statues of shapechanging spirits of Scottish legend. There are two on the canal at the Helix Park in Falkirk, close to where the canal enters the Firth of Forth. It is well worth a visit to see these giants, which are the largest equine statues in the world. Bridge 8 Hub provide outdoor activities to outdoor enthusiasts and is situated on the outskirts of Edinburgh. Driftwood Adventure offer a range of water based activities on the canal from Harrison Park, Edinburgh.

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RIVER LYON INTO THE RIVER TAY

This paddle eases the beginner into running rivers with Grade 1 rapids to give a taste of the thrills on offer, but not too much. It’s certainly anything but dull and the route has different lengths for those who do want to go further.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



(If unsure about rivers use a local guide)

DISTANCE 8km to Aberfeldy or 17km to Grandtully PARKING/LAUNCH River Lyon at Dull, lay-by

on B846 beside the bridge leading to Comrie Castle

WATER TYPE Grade 1/2 river – Dull to Grandtully

Background

This paddle follows a beautiful stretch of river, which leads from a town twinned with Boring in Oregon, USA – it’s named Dull. The name actually has nothing to do with being dull, but perhaps because, being surrounded by hills, it experiences dark winter days, with the sun only peeping over the edges of the valley. It is also thought that the name Dull comes from an old Pictish word, dol, which means meadow. Whilst driving up the B846 from Aberfeldy you can see why it would in fact be named after a meadow. The vast trees Get out point at Grandtully (important – grade 3 rapids below)

Aberfeldy Bridge START

er Riv on Ly

Aberfeldy (halfway, easy get out point)

Entrance to River Tay

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ABOVE A great day out in every season.

The paddle

and green pasture fill the valley between the mountain ranges, and it is actually a beautiful, picturesque place.

LYON/TAY – DULL TO ABERFELDY OR GRANDTULLY The launch point is little more than a lay-by where you can park by the side of the river, just before the bridge that leads over the River Lyon and up to Kenmore. There is easy access into the water from here and it makes it an excellent point to start. The river is usually calm here and it gently eases into the Tay. The section of the River Lyon is just under a kilometre before the tributary leading into the Tay. The trip down to Aberfeldy involves some short Grade 1 rapids and there are some random boulders to watch out for, particularly when the river is low. The trip is mostly very calm. It’s a fantastic run for people looking to start out on rivers in any kayak, canoe or paddleboard. It progresses slowly and becomes more challenging as you go. If you want a two-hour paddle, there is an ideal point to get out of the water in Aberfeldy at Dunolly Cottage, off Taybridge

The river flow

The River Tay is the longest river in Scotland at 188km end to end. It begins on the slopes of Ben Lui, a Munro above Crianlarich, but really starts as the River Cononish, which flows into Loch Lubhair. The river passes through Glen Dochart and the village of Killin and into Loch Tay. Loch Tay is 23km in length. The river then travels through Aberfeldy, Grandtully and south to Dunkeld. From Dunkeld it runs east to Meikleour, where the River Isla joins it. At this points it heads south to the city of Perth. Perth is really the beginning of the estuary of the Tay, becoming the Firth of Tay as it flows out and widens arriving at Dundee before entering the North Sea. River heights can be checked at https://riverlevels.uk/tay-perth before going for a paddle.

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102 PADDLE SC OT LA ND Drive. It is on the river just before the two islands south of Wade’s Bridge, which was built to improve links across Scotland after the Jacobite uprising. Get out point – Aberfeldy: grapes.kettles.petulant From Aberfeldy to Grandtully the river has more rapids. When the river is low there are ledges under the bridge, making it a fairly technical paddle. The first of the Grade 1/2 rapids comes at Edradynate Wood. There are several fast sections from here to Grandtully that would be best suited to more intermediate paddlers as the flow can become very bouncy because of the scattered boulders on the riverbed. As you arrive in Grandtully you will see the bridge crossing the river. The best place to get out is before a series of much more advanced rapids that flow under the bridge on the right of the river. Get out point – Grandtully: flank.serve.cropping

Wildlife

Salmon leap wildly throughout the River Tay. Roe deer, red deer, ospreys, buzzards, many woodland birds, beavers, foxes and badgers are just a few of the many of species you may spot along this stretch of water.

Food stop ABERFELDY Breadalbane Bakery and Pantry make incredible sandwiches and have a huge selection of cakes and treats. The Three Lemons has a brilliant vibe with a huge menu to choose from. The Fountain Bar & Restaurant is good for a burger and pint. GRANDTULLY The Inn on the Tay has welcoming staff and super food. The Grandtully Hotel offers exceptional Scottish food and drink, with a bar, restaurant and outdoor terrace.

Other activities

Castle Menzies is the ancestral home to Clan Menzies as seen on the series Outlander. Going here you will find out how the castle was used to aid the Jacobites in the Scottish unrest during the times of Bonnie Prince Charlie. Dewars World of Whisky is a fantastic family friendly distillery that offers activities for all ages. Highland Safaris is a winner of Scotland’s Best Experience award. They combine Land Rover safaris with tours of Loch Tay. Unique Adventures Tours Scotland offer bespoke adventure trips for those who want outdoor fun. Splash White Water Rafting offer aqua adventures for families to navigate through local rivers.

TOP RIGHT Cruising with Chris from Unique

Adventure Tours Scotland. BOTTOM RIGHT Where the Lyon joins the Tay. LEFT Watch out for good places to stop if you need a break.

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RIVER TUMMEL INTO THE RIVER TAY

Dunkeld is a gateway to the Highlands and full of life in the summer months. Mountain bikers, paddlers and Munro baggers all fill the car parks on warmer days getting their fix of freedom in the outdoors. The river is fast but gentle and easy to access at Ballinluig for a saunter down the A9 from a different perspective.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



(If unsure about rivers use a local guide)

START BALLINLUIG

DISTANCE 14km PARKING

Logierait

LAUNCH

First right after roundabout on A87 towards Grandtully after exiting A9 northbound

EXIT

Before Dunkeld Bridge After Dunkeld Bridge

Bridge

WATER TYPE River Grade 1/2 –

Ballinluig to Birnam

Background

This trip is through beautiful countryside, ideal for a slow, chilled-out paddle whilst seated, allowing the river to do all the work. In the height of summer the water levels don’t get too low so it should be possible to do year round. Leading down to the town of Dunkeld through the heart of Perthshire, this paddle takes in all things agriculture, forestry and hills. If relaxed social paddling on a slow river is your thing then this is one for you.

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Jubilee Bridge

DUNKELD

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Beatrix Potter is connected to the local town because her parents rented Dalguise House every summer for 11 years when she was young. The house is just 8km north of Dunkeld and Birman, and is currently used by PGL for adventure holiday accommodation. There is a Beatrix Potter garden in Birnam, which is not far from the point at which you get out of the river, and is worth a wee visit.

The paddle

The route takes you to the end of the River Tummel before entering the larger River Tay, and then the water meanders its way to Dunkeld. The river flow is smooth and it is an easy route to complete for beginner paddlers. The flow can be fast depending on rainfall so precautions must be taken and research

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ABOVE The Tay in all its summer glory.

completed before going for a paddle. The River Tay is used by many fly salmon anglers so be sure to avoid their lines as you pass through. The beautiful house at Dalguise can be seen through the trees from the water. This route is surrounded by farmed land and forestry, and the busy A9 road follows the river so traffic noise can often be heard. A little south of Dalmarnock you will pass under a road bridge that goes over the Tay. From here the river bends east at Dunkeld House and you will see the Dunkeld Road Bridge. If the river is low, it’s best to leave the river just before the bridge rather than continuing. There is easy access through the trees leading into a local orchard.

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Wildlife

There is a lot of wildlife to watch out for around the River Tay: deer, ospreys, buzzards, many woodland birds, beavers, foxes and badgers. And let’s not forget the famous Peter Rabbit, Mrs TiggyWinkle and Jeremy Fisher.

Food stop

If you’re a fan of The Great British Bake Off then a trip ARAN Bakery is a must. The owner, Flora Shedden, was the runner up in the 2015 show, at only 19 the youngest finalist to date. Her wee artisan bakery sells everything from bread to fancy pastries and sausage rolls. Be sure to get there early as it can be busy and is often sold out by mid-afternoon. The Atholl Arms Hotel has something for everything with Z’s Bar and Bistro and a beautiful outdoor terrace overlooking the river, ideal for lunch or dinner when the sun is shining. There is an extensive bar menu

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offering cocktails for those looking for that evening tipple. The Craft Diner – this little local delight is actually just out of the town at the train station, which sits on the opposite side of the A9. They claim to serve the only craft burgers in the Highlands and Islands.

Other activities

The Hermitage is a National Trust for Scotland protected site across the A9 from Dunkeld. It is famous for Ossian’s Hall of Mirrors and Ossian’s Cave. Check out Paddle Surf Scotland, who do lots of trips in and around Dunkeld. Bikes can be hired from Progression Bikes in Dunkeld town centre. RIGHT A fishing boat on the Tay. BELOW The Tay is gorgeous when summer heads into autumn.

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THE SOUTH The Scottish Borders is full of rolling farmland and countryside, and Dumfries and Galloway is too, but with a slightly more mountainous terrain keeping the grazing blackface sheep population happy. There are woodlands galore and the 7 Stanes mountain bike trails for those who want to mix things up a bit. Ayrshire is agricultural land known for its dairy production and green, green grass. Home to Rabbie Burns and the birthplace of Auld Lang Syne, it has centuries of history to discover. Together these areas offer some breathtaking places to paddle. The south west coast stretches well over 400km from Troon to Gretna and on the east coast, going from the English border to Dunbar gives you at least another 40km. In the west you’re going to get the sunsets and in the east the sunrise. Ayrshire is a truly magnificent place for sunset paddles with views down to Northern Ireland, across to the Isle of Arran and the Ailsa Craig. The rivers and lochs have their charm too. Embrace the feels of Loch Ken and try to figure out whether it’s a river or a loch, head east and bask in the surf waves of Dunbar and Eyemouth. The Solway Firth provides lots of paddling opportunities and

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ANECDOTE FROM THE SOUTH A cold winter’s day and a meet-up with a fellow provider, Craig Lawless (founder of Ayrshire Armada paddleboard club and Adventure Paddle Co), took me to Loch Ken deep in the heart of Dumfries and Galloway. With a Starboard All Star in tow and Craig on his trusty Red touring board, we launched from the car park in Crossmichael, having planned a trip back north to take in the length of the loch. It was probably about 4°C when we arrived so drysuits and being well wrapped up were essential. The water was stunningly flat and the chat between us flowed, with stories of coaching others and paddles we had done, or trips we wanted to do. Canada geese littered the entrance to the water and I got some beautiful drone footage of both the loch and Craig as he cruised along. We spent time talking about paddle stroke and what made the perfect paddle. Craig is a Red Paddle Co man through and through. He loves it, whereas I like to dabble and try out different kit, playing on boards before I buy and then selling to get something else I want to try out. Talking about kit with Craig led me to film his paddle stroke but on landing the drone, I sank it and down in the depths of Loch Ken it still lies. A sad end for the drone, and a fun but expensive day out for me. The paddle took us north to the Galloway Activity Centre and under the train bridge of days gone by. The incredible thing about this paddle is the closeness of each shoreline as you travel north. It’s a safe paddle for everyone and a great place to explore open water for beginners. If flat water cruising is your thing, find a calm day, book a campsite and get to Loch Ken. It’s stunning.

plenty of beaches to explore too. Fleet Bay is a particular favourite of many. Mossyard, Sandgreen and Dalavan all sit in close proximity to the estuary for the Big Water of Fleet. Just beware of tides when you are here. Enjoy views south to the Isle of Man on clear days. The problem with writing about the far south is that there are so many places to get out and paddle. Get out a map, close your eyes and point. There will be water near your finger that will likely be worth paddling.

LEFT The view north up Loch Ken. RIGHT Perfecting a paddle stroke.

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LOCH KEN

This loch can’t seem to make its mind up as to whether it is a loch or a river. Whatever it is, it’s a fantastic place to paddle for people on all sorts of craft. Whether taking a direct route from A to B, or meandering for a relaxing paddle, you will find much to enjoy on Loch Ken.

The Lowdown 

DIFFICULTY



LAUNCH

DISTANCE Varies PARKING

WATER TYPE Inland open water

Crossmichael Marina

Background

Galloway Activity X Centre

Le

ng

Various (see below)

th

o

f lo

ch

Loch Ken is a long, narrow stretch of water fed by the Water of Deugh, which itself comes from Loch Doon, past the Galloway power station. It leads into the Water of Ken via a series of small lochans or reservoirs. It has two main sources flowing from the hills north of Carsphairn, Kirkcudbrightshire in Dumfries and Galloway. The river flows into Carsfad Loch then Earlstoun Loch, Old railway past the Southern Upland Way at St John’s Town of

CROSSMICHAEL

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Dalry and slowly slips by the village of New Galloway before becoming Loch Ken. At the south end of the loch it changes/shares names with the River Dee, which eventually flows out to the sea at Kirkcudbright on the south coast of Scotland.

History

The paddle north from Crossmichael takes you alongside a dismantled railway – you will also pass under a bridge that was part of this line. The line was opened in 1861 but closed in 1965. It connected Portpatrick on the south west peninsula of Scotland to Castle Douglas. The bridge was significant for its time and helped ship goods between the two nations.

TOP Looking south along Loch Ken. RIGHT Craig of Adventure Paddle Co.

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The paddle

Loch Ken is a picturesque and beautiful location for a paddle on any form of craft. It boasts green glens and flat water, assuming the wind is calm, and is an ideal location for beginners to get out and explore open water, with the narrow loch being easy to get out of if necessary. At its widest point it is no more than 1,000m across, but most of the loch feels more like a wide river. Launching from Crossmichael Marina makes it easy to park and gives easy access to the water via a pier. You can paddle north or south, and for those looking for a longer challenge, you can paddle all the way back up to New Galloway some 16km north. There are so many different options for a fun day out because you can explore anywhere on this loch. The launch points below are some of the best options both for starting and finishing your paddle.

BELOW RIGHT The launch point at Crossmichael. BELOW ‘Taps aff.’

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East side

Loch Ken Holiday Park: wades.specifies.august Car park south of Loch Ken Marina: option.harnessed.pumps Galloway Activity Centre: robes.vertical.lush

West side

Kenbridge: readjust.otters.stance Lowran Burn Access: riverbank.incline.credited

Wildlife

Loch Ken is famous for its red kites and it is unusual not to see them around the loch, flying around in pairs.

Other activities

Kenmure Castle is the supposed birth place of John Balliol, King of Scotland 1292–6. Loch Ken hosts a range of water activities and there is no better place to try than with the team at Galloway Activity Centre. CatStrand Arts and Visitor Centre is a beautiful art gallery with a super cafe for a coffee and cake.

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T HE S O U T H

23

113

ST MARY’S LOCH AND LOCH OF THE LOWES

A hidden gem situated in the hills of the Scottish Borders, south of Innerleithen and north east of Moffat. With two lochs to choose from you can go one way or the other, and it always helps to have that kind of choice when the wind is up. It is a beautiful location just over an hour south of Edinburgh.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



PARKING/LAUNCH The Glen Cafe, Selkirk, A708

DISTANCE 10km (St Mary's Loch)

WATER TYPE

Inland open water

3km (Loch of the Lowes)

Background

The lochs lie together on the road between Moffat and Selkirk and are nestled amongst the Tweedsmuir or Manor Hills, which stretch north as far as Peebles. They are fed by the Megget Reservoir Water, which runs down from the Megget Reservoir. The name St Mary’s Loch comes from a church that was dedicated to St Mary. It once stood on the north shore but now only a burial ground is visible.

Loc

h

Loc

h of t

he Lo

wes

St M

's ary

H P START/FINISH

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A brief history

Scottish poetry has a foothold in the history of the local area, with James Hogg and Sir Walter Scott frequenting the local inns in the late 1700s and early 1800s. James Hogg was a Scottish poet and writer who wrote in Scots and English. He came from a poor background and was more or less self-educated. His success is incredible given the time and his background, and overcoming these challenges has made him much admired. There is a statue not far from either launch point to commemorate his life.

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The paddle

St Mary’s Loch is around 27 metres deep, whilst its little sister to the south, Loch of the Lowes, is about 16 metres. Steep hills around all sides of this loch mean it can often be relatively calm and with the prevailing wind usually coming from the south west, you are always going to be blown back to shore. It is a particularly tranquil place as no motorised boats are permitted on the loch. St Mary’s Loch is 5km long and 1km across at its widest point. Loch of the Lowes is much smaller in size at only 1km long

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T HE S O U T H

and 300m wide. If you are travelling and don’t have your own equipment you can rent kayaks, canoes and paddleboards from Kayak and SUP Hire Scottish Borders, based at a cafe on the water’s edge.

Wildlife

The lochs are home to a wide variety of water birds such as the dipper, kingfisher, heron and grey wagtail. If you are lucky, you may also spot an osprey flying over the water.

Food stop

The Glen Cafe offers a great selection of snacks and drinks with kayak and paddleboard hire too. Tibbie Shiel’s Inn is famous because Scottish Borders poet James Hogg met Sir

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ABOVE A calm day on the loch. LEFT A blue board and a blue sky.

Walter Scott there. Both Robert Burns and Robert Louis Stevenson are said to have visited too.

Other activities

Active Sports offer recreational adventures down both the Ettrick and Yarrow Waters, both fantastic stretches of river for kayaks and canoes. The Glen Cafe hire out canoes and kayaks on the loch. Innerleithen mountain bike trails and Glentress (Peebles) are well situated for a two-wheeled off-road adventure, roughly half an hour further north.

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24

AYR HARBOUR

Albeit Arran and Ailsa Craig dominate sunset paddles, but it is the shipwreck here that makes this a unique place to paddle. A daft decision and a nightmare scenario 50 years ago now gives you something else to gaze upon if the tides are just right.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



START Prestwick Sailing Club



DISTANCE 5km out and back PARKING/LAUNCH Prestwick Sailing Club

WATER TYPE Sea at low tide

Background

Ayr is the largest town in Ayrshire with a population of just over 45,000 people. Being on the sea it has always been a port town and traditionally has a large agricultural community with the lush, flat green fields that lends themselves to dairy farming.

X Shipwreck

A brief history

In the early 1200s Ayr was founded by William the Lion as a market town and by the sixteenth century it was a major port for the export of Scottish produce such as fish and wool. In 1974 the engineer of the SS Kaffir ran the boat into rocks in

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front of the harbour. It was pitch black and he was illegally moving the boat whilst the captain was at the pub and unaware of his intentions. This Clyde puffer holed and filled with water. It has stayed put since it sank but has now split into two parts after years of hammering from rough seas. The engineer gave interesting excuses for why he moved the ship and ended up in prison.

The paddle

In order to see the shipwreck at its best you need to visit the mouth of Ayr Harbour around low tide. Launching from the beach at Prestwick allows for a 3km coastal paddle, taking in views across to Arran and on a very clear day even the tip of Northern Ireland. For closer access to the harbour mouth you could launch from Ayr Beach car park on the south side of the harbour. The shipwreck sits just before the mouth of the harbour and is a haven now

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ABOVE The shipwreck of SS Kaffir at sunset. TOP Ailsa Craig.

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for fish, crabs and other sea creatures. It’s interesting to explore but you need to be careful around the rusted remains.

Wildlife

In summer basking sharks and bottlenose dolphins frequent the Ayrshire coastline during feeding times. It is said to be one of the best places in Europe to see the playful dolphins. Common seals live here all year round so are commonly seen basking on rocks or hunting fish in the bays.

Food stop

Diners travel from far and wide to experience eating and drinking at The Fox and Willow, which is renowned for its relaxed atmosphere, consistently deliciously food and extensive wine and cocktail list. They even have their own domes outside so you can enjoy dining in an intimate but different way.

Other activities

Robert Burns Birthplace Museum is a museum celebrating his life, with over 5,000 artefacts and handwritten manuscripts. It offers a unique encounter with Scotland’s best-known poet. TOP Sunset in Prestwick. LEFT ‘Oot wi’ ma pals.’ FAR LEFT It’s important to stay safe

when around the wreck.

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NORTH COAST, CAITHNESS, SUTHERLAND AND FAR NORTH The far north of Scotland has some of the biggest waves in Europe, sometimes up to 10 metres, but when the conditions are right there is a wide selection of great paddling locations along the north coast of Scotland from as far west as Durness right the way across to Dunnet Bay. At Dunnet Head the cliffs rise to over 90m out of the wild sea below and even though the Pentland Firth is up there as having some of the roughest seas in the world, it also has days of flat calm beauty with very little wind. Caithness as a county has so much to offer for the outdoor explorer. The River Thurso is great for kayakers and canoeists, and there are lochs all over the bogland that paddleboarders can relax and enjoy too. Caithness is also very remote in its south western corners so if you want to escape it all, this is your place. The north west of Sutherland has more sheep than people, and if the entire Highlands has a population density of only 8 people per square kilometre, then Sutherland is even emptier. From Cape Wrath to Lochinver, along to the county town of Dornoch and up to Melvich, it’s a very large area with plenty of water to explore. Be sure to check out North Coast Watersports, Assynt Paddleboard Hire, WhatSUP Ullapool and Sutherland Adventure Co when you are in the area. In this section of the book we have selected some of the best places from the north for paddling. As with the south, the problem with writing about the far north is there are so many amazing and remote places to paddle.

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ANECDOTE FROM THE NORTH A few years ago we were holidaying during the Covid pandemic and when restrictions lifted it was easier to move around. I went on a Thurso trip with friends. By Thurso trip, I mean the aim was to get there with lots of stops on the way. The weather was mixed and Laura, a sun follower, was the best sort of person to have on holiday. She constantly checked the weather app so that every day we could chase the sun and go somewhere where it might not actually be raining. This particular day took us to Portmahomack, which is a small peninsula that shoots out into the North Sea 20km east of Tain. The peninsula doesn’t stop at Portmahomack, but creeps out further and finishes at a point known as Tarbat ABOVE Tarbat Ness lighthouse. Ness. We were all keen to get a paddle this day as the wind had been high and we’d been avoiding water based activities. On arrival at the lighthouse car park, we came across an Italian-registered camper van, and when we walked round the back to get down to the bay to paddle, we met a fit and attractive couple doing their morning yoga routine. Initially, we walked past with polite hellos, trying not to interrupt their quiet time too much. On inspection of the beach, we decided to bring down Dave’s kayak and get the paddleboards inflated. The stony beach below the cliffs is a perfect little gully to go on an adventure round to Tarbat Ness. I only wish we had dragged a mackerel line with us. Dave and I spent an hour paddling up to the north point, getting great views of the iconic red and white lighthouse and enjoyed views north to Brora and Wick, and south across the firth to Elgin. When we returned to beach, this Italian couple, Fabian and Carolin, who turned out just to be pals travelling together, had been jealously watching from the cliffs above. After Covid lockdowns, people were still cautious about getting too close to each other, but in his curious fashion Stevie asked the guys where they were from and then started speaking French to them. Within 10 minutes of chatting we were all friends and they realised that they hadn’t actually spoken to anyone except each other for about a week. Dave and I decided to offer them a chance to get out on the water, so gave them a brief paddleboard lesson on land, fitted them with buoyancy aids, and explained they could go out and explore the rocks further up. With no real water experience off they went and came back with what can only be described as the happiest of faces. Growing up in Thurso meant I was used to living in a rural place. I knew that leaving the small northerly town was always something I was going to have to do if I wanted to go to university. I suppose this remote living gave me a need to travel and explore Scotland. Living in Kirkintilloch now on the outskirts of Glasgow gives my children a different perspective, but I love to take family and friends back to the Highlands when I can.

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LOCH BRORA

Loch Brora is a hidden gem in the north east of Scotland. The west coast hogs so much of the limelight with its high mountains that the poor east is often a neglected spot. The loch is calm and beautiful, and with over 5km to explore you’re sure to lose yourself in the best possible way.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



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DISTANCE Varies PARKING Lay-by 5km from Brora on road to Rogart

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LAUNCH Follow path from parking spot down to beach housework.mason.entrusted

WATER TYPE Inland open water/river

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Background START/FINISH Eilean Nam Faoileag

P

Brora has a dark side to its history because of the way people were forcibly removed from the land to make way for sheep so that rich land owners, in this case the house of Sutherland, could become wealthier. Many moved away from the local area entirely to find new work. However dark the history of the local area, it doesn’t affect the beauty of the surrounding valleys, rivers and beaches,

ABOVE Taking a

Water Skills Academy SUP Instructors course. BELOW Looking up the River Brora leading to the loch.

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which all are worth visiting especially with paddling in mind.

The paddle

Loch Brora sits roughly 4km west of town. There is a car park near to the launch point, but it gets a bit muddy. A short walk down to the shore brings you to a sandy beach, which looks across to a small island in the centre of the loch. It is in fact a small manmade islet called Eilean Nam Faoileag. This translates to ‘island of the gulls’. History tells of a fortified island where the earls of the past built a castle, but further back in time, it is believed to have formed part of a crannog. Today you will find little more than trees and to the north side a cross marked as a memorial to the life of a local woman. Beware very shallow waters on the north side of the island. The water is dark, fitting in with the surrounding landscape of heather and peat. Carrol Rock sits above the south west side of the loch and contributes to the picturesque landscape. The loch is 5km long, with the rivers Brora and Black Water entering from the north end. These rivers start in the smaller mountain range to the south of Ben Klibreck, one of Scotland’s most northerly Munros. At the south end the

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river continues and flows out into the North Sea. The river splits the town in two with only Brora Bridge connecting cars to the north and south via the A9. It is not a river with easy access for paddlers.

Wildlife

Deer. Everywhere. Look out for otters, dolphins and porpoises in the area around Brora Beach. Arctic tern and minke whales can often been seen off the coast too.

Food stop

Capaldi’s ice cream shop serves all kinds of frozen delights. Cocoa Skye is the place to go for a waffle and something sweet. Sid’s Spice is the local Indian restaurant.

Other activities

Sutherland Adventure Co offers lots of outdoor activities including bike hire and paddleboarding if you don’t have your kit with you. If you fancy a north east dram, then Clynelish Distillery is your go to for seeing how whisky is made in the area. Brora Beach offers unspoiled white sand with views over the Moray Firth.

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LOCH SHIN

Loch Shin brings you to the wild north and with it the isolation you need if you fancy getting away from it all. This paddle is one of the most remote in the county. It’s a long run with no support but an exciting adventure awaits for those with the right experience.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY





DISTANCE 25km PARKING

presides.bubbles.hoot

LAUNCH Corriekinloch START Bridge WATER TYPE Inland loch

ABOVE Relaxing on Loch Shin. X Ben More Assynt

Launch with the wind behind you

Background

At 27km long and just short of 50m deep, Loch Shin is Sutherland’s largest and longest loch. It houses a dam with its own hydroelectric generator, which provides electricity to the local area. At its south tip lies the village of Lairg, which each year holds the largest sheep sale in Scotland. To the north are delightful views across heather and peat bog to Ben More Assynt, a Munro 998m high.

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FINISH LAIRG

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The paddle

This is a longer paddle that can easily be done by novice paddlers with the correct kit. It needs some planning to ensure the wind blows your craft up or down the loch depending on the location you want to travel to. You will need to bring all the food and water for the day with you. This really is a paddle in the wilderness and showcases the Sutherland heather, rolling hills and forestry. There are no villages on the route so starting at the north and finishing at Lairg is the best way to go, if only so you can get a pint at the end at the Lairg Highland Hotel. At the start you will pass a fish farm and may see some people, but after that you may not see anyone else for miles as you glide down through the loch.

Wildlife

Ospreys, red and black grouse and all the usual water birds will invariably be with you on this paddle. Look out for a black throated diver swimming and diving and keep watch overhead for a golden eagle, a rare and lucky sight. Red deer will almost definitely be seen, and black faced sheep are just as common.

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Food stop

The Pier Cafe is a familyrun cafe with good food. For a pint stop, go to the Lairg Highland Hotel, which has both a bar and restaurant.

Other activities

The Falls of Shin visitor centre is famous for being a good place to see salmon jumping upstream. It has its own restaurant and small gift shop. There is a small kids' play park too. Go Wild Highlands is a small family business running canoe trips down the Kyle of Sutherland as well as in other Scottish Highland locations. They often choose locations that are off the beaten track. These are scenic, rarely visited and generally well suited to those without previous paddling experience.

RIGHT TOP Chilling with the ladies. RIGHT BOTTOM Hillside on Loch Shin. BELOW Looking down Loch Shin.

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DUNNET BAY

Dunnet Head is Scotland’s most northerly point. The cliffs here look vast from the beach at Dunnet and it is a clear and obvious landmark before your eye is drawn over the sea and on to the cliffs of Hoy in Orkney. The remote headland has a tall lighthouse built in 1832, and the cliffs below are the nesting sites for thousands of sea birds. The Pentland Firth is a very wild part of the Scottish coastline. Paddling in sheltered locations is key to enjoying a good day out.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY





DISTANCE Weather dependent – 2km from



X Most Northern point of mainland Britain

Dwarwick Pier to Peedie Sands

PENTLAND FIRTH

PARKING/LAUNCH Dwarwick Pier WATER TYPE Open ocean – waves likely

START/FINISH

P

DWARWICK PEIR LEFT Paddleboard touring on a calm day.

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Background

Dunnet Bay is a beautifully wild place. 8km east of Thurso, it can throw 6m waves at you one day, but on another be a beautiful flat calm, allowing you to explore the cliffs. The beach, which stretches for over 3km, lies between the two villages of Castletown and Dunnet. There are high sand dunes along the beach, which offer a huge sheltered bank from a southerly wind. The beach really is more of a surfer’s paradise, with regular waves allowing for a fantastic day catching surf, perhaps joined by the occasional seal or porpoise.

The paddle

The main beach can be paddled on calm days, or if the waves are right it can also be paddle-surfed. Be very aware of the winds when entering this stretch of water as an offshore wind could quickly blow you away from the beach. A calmer place to launch from is Dwarwick

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ABOVE The clear water means you can see

everything beneath you.

Pier, less than 3km from the caravan site and beach car park. With an easterly wind it is well protected and allows you easy access to a small beach known locally as Peedie Sands. (Fun fact: ‘peedie’ is actually a word from Orkney meaning ‘small’.) It is best visited when the tide is out as on a high tide it simply disappears. North Coast Watersports run paddleboard sessions from Dwarwick Pier and surf lessons from the beach. Be sure to check them out when you’re in the area even if just for local knowledge about paddling.

Wildlife

In spring and summer puffins, razorbills, guillemots, fulmars and kittiwakes all nest on the cliffs so are an

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ABOVE The islands are a good place to spot seals. ABOVE RIGHT Paddling at noon with the dazzle of the midday sun. TOP Sunset in Thurso.

almost guaranteed spot. Porpoises, harbour and common seals are also common. Orcas, minke whales and even walruses have spontaneously been known to appear off the coast of Caithness, so you may get lucky and see them.

Food stop

You can’t really go to Dunnet without going for a bar meal at the Northern Sands Hotel. Back in Thurso Y-not offers an excellent

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bar meal. Meanwhile the Red Pepper and Bydand both offer fantastic meals with more of a restaurant feel.

Other activities

Dunnet Head Lighthouse is the most northern point on mainland Scotland, and from here you get stunning views to Orkney when the weather behaves. Bring your binoculars if you want to watch birds too. When you are this far north and John O’Groats is just a stone’s throw away, you might as well visit. For the gin lover, Rock Rose Gin is produced at Dunnet Bay Distillers.

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LOCH HOPE

Loch Hope is a north to south loch in the North West Highlands. To the east of the loch there are many streams and rivers, which enter from the hills above. The bogland surrounding Loch Hope is of huge significance scientifically as it is part of the Flow Country, which makes up the largest and most intact bog system, not just in the UK but in the whole world. It is a magical and wild place full of biodiversity.

EXIT (if downwind)

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY





DISTANCE 9km – full length of the loch PARKING/LAUNCH Loch Hope Car Park EXIT



Caravan site on A838 bumps.rainwater.nails

WATER TYPE Inland loch

Background Loch Hope is a traditional fishing loch used by those looking for a quiet spot. It’s also a superb quiet location for those looking for a gentle paddle. The River Hope leaves the loch at the northern tip and flows out to sea at Loch Eribol. The tourism in the local area primarily comes from the Munro above. It is after all Scotland’s most northerly Munro so is a place lots of baggers visit.

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P START/FINISH Beach

X Ben Hope Most northerly Munro

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The paddle

Loch Hope is just under 10km in length and is fed from Strathmore River in the south. It can be paddled in different ways with different routes depending on the weather and conditions of the day. The easiest access point is from Loch Hope car park. Across the road and through the trees from there is a sandy beach. Those with 4x4 vehicles can usually access parking on the beach itself. The views from the beach include Ben Hope, Scotland’s most northerly Munro, to the south, and the town of Hope to the north. The car park is on the south east side of the loch, which allows for a super paddle back to the bridge at Hope. It is also a great place to paddle if you just want to splash around after climbing Ben Hope. You can get out of the water at Hope via a small caravan site. The river at this end flows back into the sea entering Loch Eriboll.

Wildlife

In the spring and summer months greylag geese and many other wildfowl nest at Tongue and in the surrounding areas. You may also see red deer, and if you’re really lucky, a golden eagle.

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Food stop

If you’re heading back east after paddling, visit the Ben Loyal Hotel in Tongue. For those going west the Smoo Cave Hotel in Durness is probably the closest. Both hotels offer bar meals, but it is always worth phoning ahead to ensure they are serving food.

Other activities

Loch Hope is well known for fishing for salmon, sea trout and grilse. Fishing is allowed by the local estate from late June to early September. If you fancy climbing a Munro, Ben Hope, standing at 927m, gives you views to Orkney and even as far west as the Isle of Lewis on a clear day. Despite being built in the first century AD, Broch Dun Dornaigil is still standing. One of around 500 brochs in Scotland, it either served as a building to show the power and wealth of the local chieftain, or was somewhere people actually lived some 2,000 years ago. It is around 16km south of Hope. BELOW Ben Hope.

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THE RABBIT ISLANDS OF TALMINE

Talmine Bay is a haven of white sand and open sea, and there are three small islands here all worth exploring. You can probably guess the local resident species. This paddle must only be taken when the weather conditions are good, with little wind. Some knowledge of the tides is important too. The Pentland Firth can be a wild beast but on a good day it can also be an amazing place to see some of the wild north from kayak, canoe or paddleboard. This has to be high up the list as one of the must-do paddles in Scotland.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



(Sheltered sea bay with tidal pulls)

DISTANCE Talmine Bay to



Rabbit islands and return – 6km

PARKING/LAUNCH Talmine beach WATER TYPE Sheltered sea bay with tidal pulls



Background

Talmine is a gathering of houses for farmers and fishermen 6.5km north of Tongue. The Duke of Sutherland built the harbour in the nineteenth century to allow fishing boats to come and go without being bound by the tides. This was the start of a period of change for fishing on

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START/ FINISH TALMINE BAY Tidal pulls

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the north coast. Before then fishing boats had been small open vessels to be dragged up the beach with their catch, remaining there above the tide until the next trip out. Another great tale of the Talmine Islands dates back to the time of the Young Pretender, Bonnie Prince Charlie. In 1745 one of his boats carrying gold and other supplies ran aground here and the French ship sent to help out was taken over by the Scots and the crew captured. Whatever happened to all that gold, you might well ask? It remains a mystery.

The paddle

Across from the houses there is a beautiful white sandy beach and when the tide is in you will have an easy launch from the beach. The best sheltered route follows the beach south and sticks to the coast before jetting across to the first island. When the headland juts out at Ard Skinid, shoot straight across to the south beach of the closest, western of the two islands. Once there you can relax and enjoy a peaceful picnic on the beach. Travelling round to the second island is also possible. A gentle north wind will help, and paddling with an outgoing tide will also make it easier to cross to the island. It is also advisable to return from the island with

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ABOVE The view over the Kyle of Tongue.

the tide coming back in. A point to note is that there are often many seals on the beaches and during November their young are born so it is definitely advisable to avoid the islands at this time. When conditions are particularly calm, the islands further north of the Rabbit Islands can also be accessed but knowledge of sea paddling is essential if you are considering that paddle. These islands are called Eilean nan Ròn. It translates from the Gaelic for ‘island of the seals’. Looking back south you will have beautiful views to Ben Loyal and Ben Hope.

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Wildlife

All the rabbits you can imagine. Harbour and grey seals bask on the beach in the sun, and keep your eyes peeled for minke whales, porpoises and dolphins, which can all be seen at certain times of the year.

Food stop

The Craggan House Hotel in Melness is very popular with locals for its seafood restaurant.

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ABOVE Ben Loyal (left) and Ben Hope (right). TOP A panoramic view of Talmine Bay.

Other activities

Ben Loyal is a stunning hill that provides a beautiful walk. It’s sadly one of the many mountains that deserves Munro status based on beauty alone, but just doesn’t make it because of its height.

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HANDA ISLAND

Handa Island is an oasis for seabirds on the most northerly edge of Scotland’s west coast. Every year tens of thousands of them gather there to breed on the high cliffs, whilst also enjoying a food supply from the Atlantic Ocean. It is an ornithologist’s dream but there is a lot of other marine life in the area too.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



PARKING/LAUNCH Tarbet, Handa Ferry

(Sea and tidal knowledge required)

WATER TYPE

DISTANCE 3km round trip

Open ocean

TARBET START/ FINISH

lki Wa

P

ng trai ls

HANDA ISLAND BIRD RESERVE

X Shelter

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Background

Handa is a mix of Gaelic and Norse meaning ‘island at the sandy river’. Up until 1841 the island had a population of 65. All of these people left within a short time period due to potato famine and overpopulation. The main place people fled to was Nova Scotia in Canada. Nowadays the island is maintained and used as a research station by the Scottish Wildlife Trust. It is also a nature reserve, and classed as a Site of Special Scientific Interest, so when arriving on the island you are expected to pay a small fee to the Trust to be able to walk around it. There are thousands of seabirds on the island. Some of the cliffs on the island reach to over 100m in height. The North Coast 500 Route skims past Tarbet, but if you are doing

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this route don’t miss the opportunity to take the single track road down to the village. It is only 4km from the closest village, Scourie.

The paddle

This trip is best attempted with neap tides because the current runs much stronger on a spring tide and that makes the paddling much more difficult. Ideally the wind should be low because the route is very exposed. Careful planning and understanding of the weather and tides are necessary to do this trip. It is not a paddle to consider just because you find yourself in the area.

BELOW The beautiful island of Handa.

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On good days, however, this is a straightforward paddle from the beach. The passenger ferry from Tarbet can be taken directly across to the beach on the south east edge of the island. It is 1.5km from beach to beach. On arrival at the island a ranger will probably see you and come to say hello. It is possible to circumnavigate the island but only in the calmest of conditions, so planning ahead is essential. Only get out of the water on the beach facing Tarbet. It is important to respect the work of the Scottish Wildlife Trust. You could discuss your options for paddling with the rangers. The north of the island boasts lots of caves but birds nest right down to the bottom of the cliffs, so avoid during breeding season.

Wildlife

Seabirds galore. Guillemots, razorbills and skuas can’t be missed. In spring you will probably see puffins too. In the waters around Handa Island there are several different types of dolphins. Seals and whales are also a common sight and if you are lucky you may even see a basking shark or orca.

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Food stop

The Anchorage Cafe Bar in Scourie offers a tempting breakfast, lunch and dinner menu. The Scourie Hotel has a welcoming family feel and a great seasonal menu for evening meals. ABOVE Watch out for puffins in the springtime. BELOW The rugged coastline is well worth exploring.

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TARBAT NESS LIGHTHOUSE

Are lighthouses white with red stripes or red with white stripes? A question you might ask when you arrive at this beacon in north east Scotland.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY





DISTANCE 3km round trip PARKING

Tarbat car park, Wilkhaven

LAUNCH Below car park at pier snuck.dealings.buzzer WATER TYPE Open ocean

Background

Tarbat Ness Lighthouse is on the end of what is known as the Tarbat Peninsula in Easter Ross. The lighthouse is 5km from Portmahomack, a small fishing village on the peninsula. It is a beautiful section of coastline with lots of farmland surrounding the road from the village up to the lighthouse itself. The lighthouse is pretty much a real-life version of the cartoon lighthouse that we all draw as kids. It’s an awesome sight and sits beautifully on the end of the protruding headland.

TARBAT NESS LIGHTHOUSE X

P

RIGHT Italian travellers get a Scottish adventure.

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A brief history

Built in 1830, the lighthouse was engineered by Robert Stevenson. Sixteen vessels were lost at sea in 1826, so the lighthouse was badly needed. At 41m it is the third tallest lighthouse in Scotland. According to the myths and legends of the Highlands, the point was a gathering place for witches. There was a Roman fort there, and a saga dating back to the eleventh century claims a Viking battle was fought there when Thorfinn the Mighty, Earl of Orkney, defeated Karl Hundason, King of the Scots.

LEFT AND BELOW Tarbat Ness lighthouse. OPPOSITE PAGE This is obviously a fun and

relaxing trip.

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The paddle

The tidal pull around the peninsula is usually around 0.5–1 knots. Not particularly fast, so this is a fun and relaxed trip that allows you to see the lighthouse in all of its glory from the sea. Launch from the stony beach at the bottom of the cliffs. It is a steep walk down so it is probably easiest to use inflatable kit for this particular paddle. Wilkhaven Pier allows larger, heavier craft to be launched, but parking isn’t available there so this doesn't help. After launching, head north to Tarbat Ness Point, which will give you views along the coastline. To begin with there are cliffs and rocks protruding into the sea before things flatten out towards the tip. On a calm day you will be able to access lots of small beaches along the north side of the peninsula. There is a lot of sandy beach south of the launch point too.

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Paddling around the headland you would be quite exposed, so be careful with winds and switching from the Cromarty Firth into the Dornoch Firth. If you want a longer paddle, you could always head back into the village before returning to the launch point.

Wildlife

Tarbat Ness is a migratory point for many birds in the autumn. Rare finds like sooty or Manx shearwater and different species of skua can be seen at this time of year. Look out for seals and dolphins, which are commonly found in the Dornoch Firth.

Food stop

Portmahomack boasts several small cafes and restaurants. It’s hard to beat fish and chips in a small fishing village. Check out The Oystercatcher and see what their bite of the day is.

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THE WEST From Stranraer in the deep south to Campbelltown on the end of the long peninsula looking towards Northern Ireland, up to Oban, taking in Fort William, around Knoydart, onwards to Plockton, past the Isle of Skye towards Ullapool, and then further, all the way to Cape Wrath – the west coast of Scotland is one of the best places in the world to visit. The mountains in Torridon dominate the skyline, looking like something out of Lord of the Rings, whilst the Cuillin Ridge in Skye can be seen for miles around, its dark volcanic rock towering high above sea level. Vikings once ruled some of the islands around this coast, and Norwegian kings long claimed sovereignty over them. Indeed, the west coast is often compared to Norway, and has some of the most beautiful sights in the world. It boasts well over 1,000km of rugged mountainous terrain, beaches and cliffs, playing host to a diverse range of wildlife including ospreys, sea eagles, otters, common and grey seals, as well as a large variety of shellfish. The Gulf Stream across the Atlantic Ocean warms up the west of the country, which means the water is warmer than that around other countries at a similar latitude. Keep your eyes open when paddling and you may see some pretty cool sea creatures that wouldn’t otherwise thrive in this climate. The basking shark is a common sight. When the weather goes in your favour, the west coast is a paddler’s dream. There are hundreds of islands, both large and small, inhabited and uninhabited, and it is one of the best places in the world to take a beautiful photo of the sun setting. The water here offers everything – loch, sea, sea loch, rivers running well inland. For the paddler there is much to behold and much to explore. BELOW The islands at Glencoe.

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One word of warning – July and August is midge season, so be sure to wrap up in the wild west as there is no protection from these little blighters. You will usually be fine on the water, but on land you will want to have a strategy for getting in and out quickly.

ANECDOTE FROM THE WEST Experiencing wild conditions is part of being a watersports provider. Completing my Waters Skills Academy expedition training on Loch Sunart, out on the Ardnamurchan Peninsula, and experiencing high winds there was eye-opening to say the least. When the wind blows up at some of these inland sea lochs it can take you by surprise, so it is always important to know how to cope with that if you are embarking on longer paddles spanning a whole day, or even several. Having stayed at Roam West, the Scottish hub for the WSA, we set off to the Corran Ferry nice and early on a cold November morning. With me this day were John and Stacey, both experienced paddleboarders from Wales and England. It was a glorious day to be completing training. The water was clear, the weather was calm and the wind was low as we left the, bay heading for a campsite on the far side of Loch Teacuis. Leaving Glenborrodale Bay brings you to a small island called Risga, which on its west side offers fantastic views west towards Ardmore Point, the north tip of Mull. Oronsay and Càrna are larger islands below Risga with narrow sea inlets leading to Loch Teacuis. The islands in this remote region are all Sites of Special Scientific Interest. Usually these areas are very important because they are sites of animal habitats or ancient woodland that must be protected. We split into two groups of six and my group travelled down the west side of Càrna before reaching the small island of Eilean nan Eileen, which is really a rocky outcrop with some trees and grass. The tide was high and we were on the lookout for sea otters and seals as we silently glided through some of the most spectacular water the Scottish Highlands have to offer. On coming around the south edge of Càrna we were greeted by two magnificent and acrobatic golden eagles circling in front of us. The enjoyment of the getting to see these two birds and the awesome calm conditions allowed for a perfect day's paddling. However, by the following morning the wind had changed. We had completed our research so knew it was coming. Force 5 winds were arriving from the east so we had to pack up camp and get back to Glenborrodale. We had to work in pairs and paddle side by side up the west face of Càrna, aiming to get to the north tip before shuttling together and battering through incoming winds that were either going to blow us north to the safety of Risga, or blow us back out towards Mull. We had to angle our boards in the correct way against the wind, but after turning we had the wind behind us to get to Glenborrodale Bay. It was an awesome experience under expert tutelage on a training weekend. But it was also a huge reminder that the weather, particularly the wind, must always be checked before taking on challenging paddles, including overnight trips. This is even more important on the west coast of Scotland, with the potential dangers of being somewhere so remote.

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LOCH MORAR AND THE ISLANDS

Monks once tried to live on the islands of Morar, but the harsh winters and remoteness prevented any long success of survival for that community. The loch has a host of islands to explore, but watch out for Morar’s answer to Nessie, Morag, as you won’t want an encounter with such a giant beast in a small kayak or on a paddleboard.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY





PARKING/LAUNCH Pier on right hand side of

DISTANCE 5km loop round the islands

Background

road past church

WATER TYPE

Inland loch

Alternative launch

P START/FINISH

r

Loch Morar is Launch an east-west loch south of pier Mallaig and proudly holds the record for being the deepest body of freshwater in the UK, a with some parts reaching or M 310m deep. If you fall er Ri v in here, you won’t be standing up. To put that depth into a context, a paddleboard usually pumps up to around 20psi. If you were at the bottom of Loch Morar, the pressure would feel like something over 400 psi. The loch is accessible from a small road on the north west side, but otherwise only by boat and Land Rover track. The local



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gamekeeper uses a pontoon beside Morar Lodge to launch a small boat over to the far east to take feed and salt licks over for deer – even the locals can’t get around without using the water. The loch is just over 18km in length and at its widest 2–3km across. It is surrounded by mountains with the River Morar, less than a kilometre in length, letting water empty out the loch into the estuary below. For such a grand and deep loch, it has such a small river. It isn’t a sea loch, given it is landlocked, though the loch itself is only 9m above sea level.

A brief history

Local residents have claimed to see a strange beast on the loch since the nineteenth century. Far less known than her cousin Nessie, Morag is Loch Morar’s very own monster. She is described by many as being over 6m in length, with a snakelike head and neck, four legs with three toes and taking the resemblance of a plesiosaur. All sightings of Morag are now recorded online. Whatever the truth about the monster supposedly lurking in the deep waters of Morar, be careful out on the loch.

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ABOVE A spectacular view up Loch Morar. TOP Looking across to Eigg.

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ABOVE A canoe is an excellent way to explore

this remote landscape. LEFT Perfect paddling weather. BELOW Looking west across the bay below the River Morar.

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The paddle

Launching from the jetty on the north west bank provides easy access for a gentle 5–10km paddle, including the opportunity to explore many of the islands, all with Eilean in their name. On first looking at the map I wondered who Eilean was and why she was so important but actually it translates to ‘island’. Some have beaches, and a fantastic lunch spot is on An t-Eilean Meadhoin, or ‘middle island’. This paddle is ideal for those who want to go exploring whilst perhaps chatting with pals. It would be easy to camp, but the area is an SSSI so be sure to leave everything as it was when you arrived.

Wildlife

Keep your eyes open for red deer, otters, sea eagles, maybe even golden eagles. And of course, watch out for Morag. You just never know.

Food stop

If you fancy an artisan bakery and pizzeria then look no further

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than The Bakehouse & Crannog in nearby Mallaig. Bloom & Graze is a pop-up bar in Mallaig and offers everything from sweet treats to coffee. You might even find some tequila within your cupcake.

Other activities

Morar Beach sits at the river estuary. Around the corner you can check out some caves. It is fairly tidal so just give yourself plenty of time. If you are a Harry Potter fan then visiting the Glenfinnan Viaduct is an absolute must. It is the famous train bridge that appears in the films. Visit local village Mallaig. This is where the boat leaves for the south of Skye so that trip might be worth your time too. Mallaig has lots of shops and excellent cafes from which to buy ice cream. It has its own resident seal, and see if you can find the village’s mural. Arisaig is very closely to Morar too and offers its own excellent paddling opportunities, with islands and beaches galore to choose from.

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33

CÀRNA, ORONSAY AND LOCH SUNART

If you are looking for peace and quiet, then this is the part of Scotland for you. Glenborrodale Castle watches over Loch Sunart as the tide ebbs and flows through the long sea lochan that looks out to Tobermory. Even though it’s part of the mainland it can feel so much like an island, whilst the islands are all remote and untouched.

Background

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY





DISTANCE 10km circumnavigating Càrna

PARKING Lay-by in Glenborrodale memory.putts.awaited LAUNCH

Red phone box on the B8007

WATER TYPE Sea loch

The Ardnamurchan Peninsula in Lochaber is generally very undisturbed. It is very remote, only accessible by a single track road that runs the length of the stretch of what is Great Britain’s most western point. Lots of the areas in this area are now classified as SSSIs to preserve ancient woodland or plant life. Here they can flourish, very much untouched and unaffected by us.

GLENBORRODALE START

Loch

ORONSAY

Sun

art

CÀRNA

e Tid

Stony beach X

ch s L o cui Tea

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The islands off Loch Sunart are mostly SSSIs too and host ancient woodland. They are fantastic places to spot true Scottish wildlife. Risga, Oronsay and Càrna in particular are known for their peace and solitude. The peninsula can be accessed via the Corran Ferry from Onich or by the long twisting road leading from Lochailort in the road to Mallaig from Fort William.

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ABOVE Cruising on Loch Sunart.

The Ardnamurchan Lighthouse misses out on being the most western point by a few metres but what it lacks in terms of status it makes up for in height. The lighthouse is 36 metres tall and has stunning views north to Muck, Eigg and Rum.

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LEFT It’s important to know exactly where you’re going on this trip. OPPOSITE PAGE Clockwise from TOP LEFT  Summer is the perfect time to visit.  If you’re looking for peace and quiet, this is the place for you.  Keep your eyes peeled for a rare golden eagle.  Exploring an untouched corner of Scotland.  Leave your board on the shore and camp.

A brief history

The peninsula used to be part of the kingdom of Dalriada, belonging to Ireland in the 700s before Vikings arrived and took over. In 2011 a Viking boat was unearthed dating back to the ninth or tenth century. Inside were the remains of a fierce Viking warrior, a spear, shield, axe, sword and a range of other Viking implements. Driving the modern roads now it isn’t hard to see why the Vikings only travelled there by sea.

The paddle

You can access Glenborrodale Bay by launching from the red telephone box. There are many routes you can follow, such as travelling around Càrna or Oronsay, or doing some longer paddles down into Loch Sunart or Loch Teacuis. Circumnavigating Càrna is beautiful and you are almost guaranteed to see seals on this trip. At the south tip of Càrna there are small rocky outlets and the tidal pull draws fish with it, so the seals sit and wait for dinner to come to them. For the more adventurous, sea kayaking down into Loch Teacuis is wonderful. Touring paddleboarders could happily manage this too. Continue south from Eilean nan Gabhar. The tidal pull is important here and it is much

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easier to travel with the tide than against it. Some interesting inlets on Oronsay make it an interesting paddle too but it can only be circumnavigated on a high tide as the south east edge becomes a rock pool at low tide. It makes for a squelchy and slippery portage. Checking the wind and weather is essential in this remote region.

Wildlife

Atlantic oakwood trees on Càrna have secured its status as an SSSI. You may also see sea eagles or even a golden eagle around the island. This area is also home to the Scottish wildcat.

Food stop

Mingarry Park Restaurant is worth a visit, albeit about 20km further west from Glenborrodale. If you’re that far west keep going as the lighthouse isn’t too far from there. Puffin Coffee in Kilchoan is a bit of a community hub and a great spot for lunch or coffee.

Other activities

RSPB Glenborrodale Nature Reserve has a small car park for up to six cars. Bring your binoculars and a slice of luck for some good bird watching. The trail is around 1km long. Ardnamurchan Lighthouse is worth a visit for the excellent views north and west. When you’re that far away anyway it’s worth the extra hour’s drive.

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34

LOCH LEVEN AND GLENCOE

The Pap of Glencoe stands proud above the water, with the cliffs of the famous Aonach Eagach just behind. Glencoe is up there with the most picturesque regions of Scotland. There are so many valleys here going in so many directions that there is always somewhere to get out on the water.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



 to 

DISTANCE • Ballachulish harbour and



around islands – 4km • Ballachulish harbour to Kinlochleven – 11km

PARKING/LAUNCH Ballachulish Marina WATER TYPE Sea lochan

EILEAN MUNDE

ISLES OF GLENCOE

P H START/FINISH BALLACHULISH

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GLENCOE

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Background

Loch Leven has the iconic and stunning back drop of the Glencoe hills so if you’re wondering where that hill on the calendar you have at home is then you may well find it here. The villages of Glencoe, North Ballachulish, Ballachulish and Onich all sit around a narrow channel where Loch Linnhe splits north to Fort William and east to Kinlochleven. The narrow sea inlet has rising mountains on either side of it and on a calm day the reflections of the mountains are beautiful. From the bridge at North Ballachulish to Kinlochleven, the loch measures 14km. It also boasts nine of its own islands, some just rocky tops but others with trees and plant life. Glencoe and Ballachulish lie on the south shore, with North Ballachulish really the gateway at the entrance to Loch Linnhe. Kinlochleven is on the very eastern shore. One thing to perhaps be aware of when paddling here is that on a high spring tide, the tidal range can go from 0–7 knots very quickly, so it is important to seek information about the sea and tides to ensure safe paddling.

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ABOVE Ballachulish board life. LEFT Getting ready to launch.

A brief history

The history of Glencoe is interesting as there are a lot of stories about it and the amazing scenery thereabouts. Interestingly, Glencoe has a very brutal past, the Glencoe Massacre being the most famous episode in the area’s history. In 1692, after the Jacobite uprising, the chieftain of Clan MacDonald, along with 30 to 40 of his clansmen, were slaughtered by members of Clan Campbell. Making this massacre particularly horrific was the fact that some men actually escaped, but later died of hunger and exposure in the surrounding hills.

The paddle

Launching from Ballachulish Marina is ideal as there is ample free parking available for groups as well as individuals. There is a calm and sheltered

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The spectacular Glencoe hills in December.

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bay with a long jetty and stony beach to launch from. The main island, Eilean Munde, is less than 1km from the launch point. To take in the stunning scenery you can zigzag in and around the islands. It is best to go a couple of hours before high tide, enjoying an easy paddle out with time to relax before the tide changes and also gives you an easy paddle back. It is also easy to get on and off the island if you want to explore there. On the coast of Loch Leven to the north of the island there are lots of stony sea weed beaches where you can stop too. For the more adventurous paddler, when there is a strong westerly wind, the water here generally gets blown and squeezed up through the channel to Kinlochleven. This creates perfect downwind conditions when the angle of the wind is bang on. A direct paddle from the marina to Kinlochleven is manageable even with winds up to 50mph, but you need to be very confident in the water when the wind is that high. This location is perfect for downwind paddleboarding or for using outrigger canoes.

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Wildlife

Deer, pine martens, otters and wildcats all roam the shores in and around Glencoe. This is another place where you may spot a golden eagle too.

Food stop

Glencoe Cafe is a cracking lunch spot, with a good selection of cakes, soup and sandwiches. Ballachulish Visitor Centre has a great wee cafe for breakfast, with plenty of gluten-free options, as well as a cool gift shop to check out. Roam West in Onich is more than just somewhere to stop for food and drink. It is a great place to experience Scottish hospitality and explore the wilderness, have an adventure, awaken your mind and meet likeminded travellers.

BELOW This is undoubtedly one of the most picturesque parts of Scotland.

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The very best of Kinlochleven can be found at Mo’s, which opens early for those looking for an early morning paddle or hill walk, and who fancy a bacon roll on the way.

Other activities

Based in Kinlochleven, Ice Factor is the national ice climbing centre. Ben Nevis is Scotland’s highest mountain and could be your first Munro.

RIGHT Dogs love joining in paddlesports.

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35

OBAN AND KERRERA

Oban is a fantastic hub, offering tourism, beaches and a gateway to the islands, with paddle opportunities in the hundreds. In the summer the town is a happy place full of holidaymakers. Don’t miss a visit to one of the pubs for live music played off the cuff.

Background

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY



 to 

DISTANCE • Wee Ganavan Beach to Slatrach Bay – 10km • Circumnavigation of Kerrera – 20km PARKING/LAUNCH Ganavan Road WATER TYPE Open ocean

Oban is known as the gateway to the Inner Hebrides. The population of 9,500 increases to over 20,000 in the summer season with tourists turning Oban into a bustling town with lots to see and do. The name translates from Gaelic and means ‘little bay’. Opposite the town lies the island of Kerrera, 8km in length and 3km at the widest point. A complete circumnavigation of the island leaving from Oban Bay would stretch to

Sho

P

r

e turn addl tp

Fish farm X

START/FINISH Kerrera Marina X

OBAN KERRERA

Cylan Castle X

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20km, so should only be attempted if the weather conditions are suitable.

ABOVE Kerrera Marina, gateway to the Western Isles.

A brief history

down. The castle appears in certain episodes of the TV series Game of Thrones.

The population of Oban was very small until the late 1700s, when the Oban distillery opened. It was built in 1794 and has remained open ever since, with the exception of two brief periods of a few years. It produces world famous whisky and is owned by Diageo. Kerrera island is owned nearly entirely by Clan MacDougall, as it has been since the thirteenth century. It is famous because in 1249, Alexander II of Scotland died here before he was able to go into battle against the Norwegian rulers of the islands. On the south stacks of the island stands Gylen Castle overlooking the Firth of Loin. It was built in 1592 but didn’t even manage to survive 100 years before being burned

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The paddle

For the 10km route to Slatrach Bay, launch from Ganavan Road. There is a small bus stop with free parking. Launch off of the beach and paddle straight across to the nearest shoreline on Kerrera. A red and white lighthouse stands on its own in the water. Watch carefully for passing boats, because most of the traffic travels through this channel. Maiden Island is opposite the beach and for those looking for a more relaxed paddle, a simple navigation of that could suffice. From the lighthouse travel north west and hug the coast. En route there is a salmon

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farm with ten large fishing bays. There are marked buoys that paddlers and craft are asked to keep away from. Eilean nan Gamhna is the biggest island you will pass before reaching Slatrach Bay. It makes for an ideal picnic stop. At this point turning back and zipping in and out of the surrounding islands will allow a gentle 10km route. If you want a longer day out and the weather is good, a full circumnavigation of the island is just over 20km. The south coast is beautiful but knowledge of the tides is crucial.

Wildlife

White tailed eagles nest on the island, and there are many grey herons. Otters and common seals are found all around the island too, and grey seals frequent the island as well, especially when common seals are pupping. Many of the seals huddle together on rocks. They are very inquisitive so might follow you for a quite a distance. If you trail a mackerel

LEFT The lighthouse in the bay. BELOW The quiet waters around the islands also attract seals, so keep an eye out.

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line behind the craft you are sure to catch yourself some fresh lunch. In the summer months, there are lots of moon and lions mane jellyfish because of the often high levels of plankton present in the water.

Food stop

If you are looking for a bite to eat on the island, the Kerrera Marina has its own restaurant called Waypoint, and it is well worth a visit. Although not on the suggested route, it’s a simple paddle round the bay to the south of the lighthouse at the north tip. On the North Pier in Oban both Eeusk and Piazza offer fantastic food with stunning views across the bay. Eeusk is a world renowned seafood restaurant that serves locally caught ingredients, whilst Piazza is a sister restaurant next door serving Italian food. On the opposite side of the road to the North Pier you will find The Fish Box, which does fish and chips taco style. If you are a big coffee lover then Hinba Coffee Roasters is for you. With a fantastic array of both beans and pastries to choose from, you will enjoy some of the best coffee on the west coast here.

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LOCH AWE

A beast to many, especially those who have conquered the whole length, Loch Awe is awesome. Islands, wildlife, remoteness and a brutal wind on the wrong day are factors that you might think could cause even the most experienced of paddlers to give up. This is my tantrum loch. I both love it and hate it but you just can’t escape the beauty of the surrounding castle and church looking over a land steeped in a violent past.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY

 to  (Dependent on

PARKING/LAUNCH Kilchurn Castle



distance and wind speed)

WATER TYPE

Inland loch

DISTANCE Up to 75km there and back

Kilchurn Castle X LOCHAWE

DALAVICH

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Background

Loch Awe is the longest freshwater body in the UK. It stretches for 40km from top to bottom, and offers spectacular views of the surrounding trees, mountains and valleys. It is also home to several islands, which feel lost in time, covered in trees many moons old. It lies south of Oban, north of Lochgilphead and west of the north banks of Loch Lomond. On the north side of the loch, Kilchurn Castle stands proud, derelict now but a reminder of Scottish history, particularly that involving war. Some 40km

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south west is the hamlet of Torran, which is little more than a scattering of houses. Between is a huge playground for any paddler to explore old crannogs, venture on to islands and stop off at some of the campsites near villages along the shore. The loch is world famous for trout fishing because of the large ferox trout that roam the depths of the water. It is highly prized because it is rare. Some fish reach over a metre in length. The record weight for a ferox brown trout was one caught in Loch Awe, and that came in at 14.4kg (31lb 12oz).

A brief history

Clan MacArthur owned the lands around Loch Awe, which was within close reach of the Campbells, Stewarts and MacGregors. The clan was supported by Robert the Bruce, the newly appointed King of Scotland, as a thanks

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for supporting him at Bannockburn. They remained rulers around the loch until 1424. By that point James I of England and VI of Scotland was now in power, and he put the clan chief of the MacArthurs to death because of the power he held. Three hundred years later clan members fought on both sides of the Jacobite Uprising and they went for 230 years without a clan chief. It wasn’t until as recently as 2002 that a new chief was inaugurated. In the 1500s the Clan Campbell built their powerhouse, Kilchurn Castle, on the shores of Loch Awe. It claims the title of most photographed castle in Scotland and when visiting you will see why. It sits at the very east side of the loch with the mountains rising up all around it.

BELOW An aerial view of Loch Awe and Kilchurn Castle.

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LEFT Paddling Loch Awe. RIGHT TOP When the weather breaks over Kilchurn Castle, the view is Awe-some. BELOW Kilchurn Castle.

The paddle

There are a lot of different launch points for Loch Awe as it is such a long body of water. It really depends on what sort of a day you want to have. A downwind trip taking in the whole loch would be epic, requiring someone to pick you up. You would also want a decent amount of food and kit with you. One of the best places to launch from is Dalavich campsite on the north side of the loch. It is halfway up the loch and has a nice beach. You can explore some of the islands around a kilometre opposite the shoreline. Innes Chonnel Castle is on one of the islands and is well worth exploring. Parts of the castle have been there since the early 1300s. Access point from Dalavich: pits.gong.podcast From this point you can paddle east or west and depending on the weather make a decision on the day about how far you want to travel or how much time you want to spend out on the water. Access point and parking for Kilchurn Castle: bashful.televise.exchanges If you launch from near Kilchurn Castle there is more of a walk to the water from the car park. It’s manageable with kit, especially if you are paddleboarding or

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using inflatable kayaks or canoes and can pump them up closer to the water. From Kilchurn Castle you can reach the islands and the loop would be 10–12km.

Wildlife

Ospreys, white tailed sea eagles and golden eagles all nest in and around Loch Awe. Red squirrels and pine martens also live in the surrounding forests so if you stop off for a picnic at the side of the water keep your eyes peeled.

Food stop

If you are on the north side of the loch check out the Kilchrenan Inn. You can dine in their restaurant or bar and later relax with a drink by the log fire. Dalavich Village Shop, Wild Rowan Café & Post Office – this little gem is a master of all trades with a shop, post office and takeaway. They do amazing pizzas. One not to miss. Honesty Bakery Phone Box – this random little delight is great if you want a quick sugar fix after a day on the water. Look out for the red phone box on the B840 road in Cladich and leave your donation. One of the instructors at Glasgow Paddleboarders Co started this wee venture.

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THE SCOTTISH ISLANDS There are over 750 islands in Scotland, but most of them are uninhabited and many have more sheep and deer than people. The 100 that are inhabited have about 100,000 residents between them. Some of the islands are connected by road, such as the Isle of Skye, but others can only be reached by boat or plane. Being on a Scottish island is amazing. There is something about getting away from the world that is truly magical and in Scotland there are certainly plenty of opportunities to do that. The islands in Scotland all have their own story to tell, from hundreds of years of Viking rule to being used by the oil industry. Each one is different, with different cultures and there are different accents and dialects even amongst Gaelic speakers. The Shetland Isles are rugged and wild. The sea is a rough and dangerous place, exposed to the North Sea and the North Atlantic. There is really no hiding from the wind. There are calm days during the summer months, but great care has to be taken when paddling coastal routes in these waters. In many ways Shetland is an easier paddle location than Orkney because it has higher mountains, which gives some shelter from the wind. Whilst Orkney itself is a gentler place, with lots of farmland and rolling hills, the sea around it is just as wild, if not more so than Shetland – tidal pulls around Orkney were enough to stop Vikings moving for weeks. The north coast of mainland Scotland can be seen from much of Orkney. Crossing from the mainland is interesting as the Pentland Firth throws out some of the biggest surfing waves in the world, along with whirlpools and strong rip currents. The stretch from Ness on the top of Lewis, down through Harris, and ferry-hopping all the way south, will take you through North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, Eriskay, Barra and to the southern point on Barra Head. The Outer Hebrides span over 300km and make for an amazing cycle route. Check out the Hebridean Way. With the right wind and tide conditions, it would be possible to paddle it too. The Inner Hebrides start with its largest island Skye, and travelling south from here would take you through Rum, Eigg, Coll and Tiree, on to Mull and south to Colonsay, Jura and Islay. Gigha deserves a mention too even though the south tip of Islay is the most southerly point. Bute, Arran and Cumbrae all fall into the Firth of Clyde region and are sheltered by the long peninsula that stretches from Lochgilphead directly south for 85km, blocking a more direct route from Islay and Jura to Arran. Compared to the north and west coasts, in terms of islands the east coast struggles but it still offers small gems if you go looking. There are so many fantastic paddles that can be done in the sea around many of the most beautiful parts of Scotland that this book can only really scratch the surface.

RIGHT Crossing over the Pladda.

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ANECDOTE FROM THE ISLE OF ARRAN If you asked me to choose a favourite from all the paddles I have done, I would find it hard, but a notably exciting and interesting paddle my wife and I did whilst on holiday with our family in 2020 was on the south coast of the Isle of Arran. The sun was splitting the sky and the weather was coercing us to have some sort of adventure by leaving the kids with the grandparents. A small teardrop-shaped island called Pladda lies 1km offshore from Kildonan on the south coast of the island. The south end of Arran is all farmland and coastal rock with the odd sandy beach for lounging on. Small islands that are off the coast of other islands fascinate me. I often think about what it would be like to live on an island off an island when an island itself already feels so remote. Pladda is that place. The Silver Sands Beach below our hotel gives an excellent launch point for any craft, but on a low tide could be a bit of a squelchy walk out to the sea. On entering the water we realised we weren’t alone. There were literally hundreds of starfish amongst the sea forest that was swaying below our feet. It was actually so clear that day it almost felt like being between two completely different worlds. But my wife wasn’t overly enjoying how ‘high’ up we were looking down from! The sea to the east of us was dark and cloudy with silt from the rougher, windier Firth of Clyde. To the west it was clear and flat. As we arrived at the north tip of the island we felt pulled in, towards the pier halfway down the island. Seals covered the shoreline and we were careful to be quiet and not disturb them. A large lighthouse stands proudly towards the south of the island, with lots of derelict-looking houses that once would have been lived in by the families looking after the lighthouse. The views south from the island look towards Ailsa Craig and in the far distance we could see Northern Ireland peeking just above the horizon. It was a great paddle for a calm day, and the combination of wind and tide made this an exciting adventure. If you love wildlife and want to explore islands off islands then Pladda is worth a visit.

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MULL, TOBERMORY BAY

The famous row of coloured houses lights up the bay of Tobermory and as soon as you arrive in this northern town you will get holiday vibes. The calm and sheltered bay has been used by many over the centuries as a hideout, and to escape from the westerly winds.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY





PARKING/LAUNCH Beach at Fisherman's Pier WATER TYPE Sea bay

DISTANCE 5km

TOBERMORY Fisherman's Pier

Pier

CALVE ISLAND

Waterfall X

Be

wa

re

tid

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es

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Background

If you are lucky enough to arrive into Tobermory by boat you will be greeted by rows of brightly coloured houses and a beautiful harboured bay. Though this was once a Viking’s paradise. Tobermory is the county town of Mull and half of the population of the entire island live there. The name comes from its Gaelic roots – ‘Tobar Mhoire’, which means ‘Mary’s Well’.

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ABOVE Boats on the beach in front of Tobermory’s

famous coloured houses.

This is the well nearby that was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. In the summer months it is a bustling tourist village and worth a visit, whether to browse the local craft shops, or try out the local Tobermory whisky.

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this paddle. Along the coast from Tobermory to Aros Park there is a waterfall from a local burn that is worth a visit. The headland after Aros Park blocks views to the island. When you turn back south east into the sea between the island and the main isle of Mull the water is known as Dòirlinn a’ Chalibhe. The sea shallows at the south tip of Calve Island and through this narrow gap paddlers are exposed to choppier water out of Tobermory Bay and back into the Sound of Mull. The south tip of the island is actually a separate island. Keeping on the west side of the island will usually provide you with calm waters but be aware of winds pushing south east into the Sound of Mull.

A brief history

The local waters of Tobermory are awash with legends. Supposedly the wreck of a Spanish ship heavily loaded with gold and jewels lies below the surface somewhere in Tobermory Bay. No one actually knows the ship’s true identity. Some believe it to be part of the failed Spanish Armada from 1588. Others claim it was set alight by a local witch named Dòideag after a disputed payment about using the harbour, and the gunpowder on board exploded, causing the ship to sink. Even though up to £300,000 of gold bullion is said to have been on board none has ever been found. Other sources suggest it was a different ship called San Juan de Sicilia, but it only carried men, not precious metals. ABOVE Tobermory Marina.

The paddle

On a calm day in and around Tobermory, there is a fantastic paddle from the beach beside Fisherman’s Pier. Launching from here gives views east to Calve Island, which is the destination for

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TOP LEFT Calgary Bay, around the corner from

Tobermory. TOP RIGHT Mr SUP Inflatables taking in Tobermory. CENTRE Be sure to enjoy a dram in Mishnish. BELOW Sunset over the bay in Tobermory.

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Wildlife

There are resident bottlenose dolphins and harbour porpoises all around the island. Otters also inhabit much of the coast around the island. Both common and grey seals are common sights. In the summer months, basking sharks, orcas, minke whales and common dolphins can all be seen. This is usually due to the rise in plankton blooms.

Food stop

Dating back to 1869 the Mishnish is the yellow house on the front. It has a quirky bar with snug rooms to hide away, as well as open fires, bar meals and live music. A definite favourite. The Galleon Bistro is a family run business using locally sourced ingredients and showing what Mull has to offer. If you’re visiting the island this is a must. Tobermory Bakery is a delight. Cakes, scones, bread – all the treats.

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MULL, THE ROSS OF MULL

The southern tip of Mull looks out to Iona and the clear sea below is full of life with all creatures great and small. The stunning white sandy beaches here make for a great day out. Taking to the water from here just makes it all that more special. The next stop west is Canada.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY





DISTANCE • Fidden Farm Campsite around the islands to Eilean Dubh – 5km • Fionnphort around the islands to Eilean Nam Muc – 10km

PARKING/LAUNCH • Paddle 1 townhouse. rectangular.drawn • Paddle 2 students. divisible.quietly WATER TYPE

Open ocean

Background

The Ross of Mull is the most south west section of the island and it stretches over 30km along the south coast from Lochbuie. High cliffs adorn the coastline and as you move west to Iona the scenery remains as beautiful as ever. Views south to Colonsay, Islay and Jura fill the horizon, with Tiree and Coll to the north, often hidden behind Iona, depending on where you are. Fionnphort is the port village that connects the local people of Iona to Mull. Mull has around 3,000 permanent residents and its little sister Iona around 170. It’s around an hour’s drive, along mostly single track road, from the ferry terminal at Craignure to Fionnphort. Beware the sheep and Highland cows as you travel.

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ABOVE Challenge Wales waiting for paddlers

to board. RIGHT Off the coast of Erraid.

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ABOVE Sunrise over Iona.

On this south west tip lies another island called Erraid, which is actually connected to the mainland via a beautiful white sandy beach. On a high spring tide it can be completely submerged, though. Members of the Findhorn Foundation, who aim to live in as ecofriendly a way as possible, live here.

A brief history

Ireland and Iona Abbey became one of the most influential places of worship for the entire British Isles. Fionnphort has been giving access to Iona from Mull for many centuries, although in the past most people would have travelled to Iona solely by boat.

IONA

Although the paddles written about are not actually on the Isle of Iona, they both look across the Sound of Iona for most of the trip. Iona is steeped in Scottish history and is believed to have been the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland, dating back to 563 AD. St Colomba travelled here with companions from

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FIDDEN

ERRAID

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FIDDEN

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The paddle 1 Fidden Beach to Eilean Dubh Fidden Beach is 1.6km from Fionnphort, on a beautiful coastline with a wide and shallow sandy bay. It is a great place for paddlesports, wild swimming, and safe for children to do the other kind of paddling too. It is a popular campsite in summer. Launching from here gives access from the beautiful beach to the many small, scattered islands to the south west. Tinker's Hole is a common place for boats to anchor and enjoy the views. It is usually very calm and the waters are very clear. It is in between the isle of Erraid and Eilean Dudh, one of the larger small islands in the bay. This 5km paddle is easily achievable by weaving your way in and around the islands and the rocky outcrops that emerge from the seabed.

The paddle 2

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Food stop

If a Michelin star is your thing then you need to visit the Ninth Wave Restaurant in Fiònnphort. Booking in advance is highly advisable. The restaurant is owned by a couple who cook local seasonal food. It is only open Wednesday to Sunday evenings. The Creel Seafood Bar is found just before the ferry terminal to Mull. In 2021 it won an award for Scotland’s Best Seafood Establishment. It has made it on to Visit Scotland’s Top 11 seafood shacks and is a delight. From mussels and scallops, to lobster and your usual fish and chips, it has it all.

Other activities

If you’ve had a paddle and fancy a boat trip, head over to the Isle of Iona and wander around the local town. There are lots of different places to explore over there too.

Fionnphort to Eilean Nam Muc For those looking to extend the paddle and double the distance, launching from the Fionnphort beach allows you to hug the coast down to Fidden before heading towards the islands. The tide through the channel can be about 2.5 knots but that can easily be turned to your advantage for travelling south and north. Fidden Beach is a beautiful place to stop for a picnic.

FIÒNNPHORT

Wildlife

There is plenty of birdlife to see, including hen harriers, sparrowhawks, kestrels, barnacle geese, redwings, golden plovers and many more. Both white tailed eagles and golden eagles have been seen here too. Common seals often bask in the sun on the rocks and beaches, with red deer all around – on Mull they outnumber the population two to one. Otters will frequent the area too. Basking sharks, porpoises and dolphins all live around the bays of the west coast of the island.

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FIDDEN

ERRAID

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Exploring Tinker's Hole.

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ARRAN, HOLY ISLE

The last Viking hideout was in this very bay before they returned to Norway, never to return to the British Isles. Lamlash is a buzzing family holiday destination on the island and the calm water of the bay allows for some fantastic paddling.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY Dependent on wind 16kph  (best on calm days)

P

DISTANCE

Lamlash to Holy Isle and skirting round the bay

PARKING/LAUNCH Lamlash Pier WATER TYPE

Sea

LAMLASH

START/FINISH

Lamlash Bay HOLY ISLE

Clear Shallow

Holy Isle Inner Lighthouse X

X Kings Cross Beach

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Background

On the north of Holy Isle is a Centre for World Peace and Health where retreats take place throughout the summer season. The centre is run by a Tibetan Buddhist meditation master from the Karma Kagyu tradition. On the island they care greatly about the beauty of nature and the environment. They maintain the island and care for the Eriskay ponies, Soay sheep and Saanen goats, which are the only large mammals living there. There are many walks to take, and the coastal path heads through the centre of the island, north to south, before a loop back over Mullach Mòr.

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A brief history

Holy Isle has been a historically significant location since at least the sixth century. It was a place of sacred meaning for St Molaise, who travelled to Rome and helped Catholicism grow in both Scotland and Ireland. He chose to be a hermit on the island instead of becoming king of Ireland. The Vikings used the cave he lived in before the Battle of Largs in 1263, sheltering their boats in the calm waters of the bay. This battle saw the end of 500 years of Norse rule in Scotland. BELOW The lighthouse on Holy Isle.

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The paddle

On leaving the pontoon at Lamlash, travel straight across to the pier on Holy Isle. The crossing is around 2km. If you have the time to explore the island it is worth climbing to the top of the hill, Mullach Mòr, which is 310m high and offers an amazing view on a clear day. If the sea is calm a 10km paddle can be completed staying within the sheltered bay of the island. The island is 3km long from north to south. The beach on the main island of Arran, down from Kingscross, is an excellent spot to have lunch and is well worth visiting. The sea in the bay is very clear and in shallower water it is easy to spot wildlife below. For the adventurous, a loop of the island is possible but it’s important to check swell conditions.

Food stop

The Pierhead Tavern offers delicious meals to suit all tastes, with a varied menu of pub classics including vegetarian and vegan options, which are supplemented by sensational, freshly prepared specials.

Other activities

Goatfell is Arran’s highest mountain and can be climbed from Brodick Castle. Check it out for awesome views over the island. If whisky is your thing then a visit to Lochranza Distillery could be worth the trip. Lochranza is the most northerly village on the island. Arran Cheese has a wee shop just north of Brodick.

TOP Sunrise over Arran. RIGHT You will get the best photos when the sun is low over the water. FAR RIGHT Holy Isle from the east side.

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A perfect paddle for all the family.

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ERISKAY, OUTER HEBRIDES

White sand and causeway connect Eriskay to its larger neighbour, South Uist. The beauty of this place is very typical of the remote feel you get from Scottish islands in the Outer Hebrides. If the weather isn’t with you, get a fire going and stay inside. It’s an isolated place with little protection from the wind, but with the right conditions you could have the paddle of your life.

The Lowdown DIFFICULTY Dependent on wind 16kph  (best on calm days) DISTANCE 5km

ERISKAY

PARKING/LAUNCH Prince's Beach,

close to ferry terminal

WATER TYPE Open ocean

Background

The isle of Eriskay is connected to South Uist via a causeway built in 2001. It is a small island, only 4.5km in length and 2.5km across at the widest point, but the connection to South Uist has increased transport to the island and improved local life. Interestingly, Eriskay’s football pitch is one of the top eight FIFA pitches to play on in the world. Even though there are only around 130 people on the island, they manage to find enough to form a football team to play in a local island league.

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X Eriskay Football Club

P START/FINISH X Ferry

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BOTTOM The waters here are crystal clear. BELOW David Steele of Uist Sea Tours favours Shark boards.

A brief history

The Young Pretender, Bonnie Prince Charlie, set foot on the island in 1745, and that was actually his first ever step on to Scottish soil. The white-striped pink sea bindweed is a flower not native to the island, but is said to grow there now after having fallen out of his pocket when he took out his handkerchief. More recently, a ship named the SS Politician heading to New York in 1941 hit rocks on the north side of the island. It was loaded with bottles of whisky, mostly from Edradour Distillery. The islanders helped to rescue the crew before many helped themselves to the cargo. 24,000 bottles of whisky went missing. Some islanders went to prison for theft. Compton Mackenzie wrote a book called Whisky Galore based upon this incident.

The paddle

Eriskay has a long beach known as Prince’s Beach. It faces directly west. This is a stunning beach and makes for a fantastic paddle location but only with an onshore wind or very calm conditions. Paddling the length of the beach up to the causeway and back will take you around the north west tip of the island and through

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ABOVE Getting ready to launch. RIGHT A scheduled tour will take you and your equipment out to the best places to paddle.

some of the clearest sea around the British Isles. It’s a Scottish paradise on a calm day. There are some small islands that could be visited too, and on that route you would get views of Barra and the south tip of South Uist. If you happen to have travelled all that way without kit, Uist Sea Tours have paddleboards for rental and also do boat trips. A favourite place of theirs to visit is the Isle of Fuday. Big tides on this beach often make it a surfer’s paradise.

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Wildlife

Eriskay is famous because of the Eriskay pony. These have been classified as a critically endangered species by the Rare Breeds Survival Trust. They still live on Eriskay today and wander around the island freely, keeping grass low during spring summer and autumn.

Food stop

Am Politician is the only pub on the island and worth a visit to hear the tales of shipwrecks and whisky.

Other activities

Eriskay Football Club – check out the quirky bumpy structure of the football pitch.

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ISLAND PROVIDERS ORKNEY AND SHETLAND OUTER HEBRIDES Sea Kayak 59° North is owned and operated by Kristian Cooper and, with over 20 years of kayak instruction experience, he is passionate about his Orkney homeland and loves to share its coastline’s secrets. His company operates out of several location around mainland Orkney.

LEWIS AND HARRIS Surf Lewis & Harris is a surf school based in Sandwick near Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis and provides surfing, paddleboarding and snorkelling lessons as well as equipment hire, in a safe environment at various locations throughout Lewis and Harris.

Orkney SUP was established by Nick Blowfield to create a safe and fun environment for paddleboarding in Orkney. It is a mobile company, enabling them to operate out of various locations in the islands and to adapt to conditions and cater for different abilities. Nick has an extensive knowledge of the sea in and around Orkney so is worth speaking to before planning any trips whilst on the island.

Roam Outer Hebrides, based on the isle of Harris, offer sea kayak trips and tours.

SeaKayak Shetland is a small, friendly, family-run enterprise. Angus Nicol has lived in Shetland all his life. He has always enjoyed being on the water and frequently spent his weekends fishing from the family boat when he was young. He has a good knowledge and appreciation of the local environment and wildlife and respects the sea in all its moods. Daughters Rosalind and Catriona also enjoy taking groups out kayaking. All three are BCU five-star leaders and sea kayak coaches with an advanced water endorsement.

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UIST AND BENBECULA Across North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Eriskay, paddleboard hire is available through Uist Sea Tours and Paddle Hebrides. BARRA Clearwater Paddling offers guided sea kayaking tours in the most beautiful places, combined with first-class service. TIREE Wild Diamond is owned and managed by Willy and Kirsty MacLean, who are passionate about their love for watersports and being in the outdoors. Between them they have 25 years’ teaching experience in watersports. Although windsurfing and kitesurfing are their main sports, they also offer paddleboarding lessons and kayaks for hire. MULL Bendoran Watersports is an activity centre for sea kayaking and sailing based on the south west tip of the Isle of Mull. Right on the coast of the beautiful Inner Hebrides, it gives access to a sheltered bay and is in easy reach of the stunning white sand beaches of the south coast, Iona and just round the corner at Market Bay.

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INNER HEBRIDES

FIRTH OF CLYDE

SKYE The Skye Kayak Centre is based at Eilean Iarmain and visitors can enjoy discovering local knowledge about culture, history and wildlife. The local kayak guides will give you a wonderful, enjoyable and safe experience.

ARRAN Kayak Arran offers full-day and half-day tours around the beautiful coastline of the Isle of Arran, as well as its neighbouring islands, Pladda and Holy Isle. No experience is necessary – their guides will tailor your trip to your requirements. All equipment is also provided.

South Skye Sea Kayak will help you discover Skye away from the crowds, journey along stunning coastlines, experience a new perspective and see different views. Enjoy a picnic on a remote beach and spot wildlife, all with an experienced guide. EIGG Eigg Adventures offer a range of single and tandem sit-on kayaks, ideal for paddling around the bay and exploring the coastline. ISLAY The coastline around the islands and west coast of Scotland lends itself to being explored by kayak and paddleboard, and Joe Hughes of Adventure Kayaking Islay will be more than happy to help.

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Based on Lamlash pier, Otter’s Tail offer a variety of sea kayak tours. It’s hard to beat a day exploring Arran's coast by sea kayak. SUP Arran is the island's first paddleboarding school. It offers introductory lessons and mini tours from various beach locations around the island. BUTE Kilchattan Bay Kayaking is located in a safe and attractive bay at the southern end of the scenic Isle of Bute on the west coast of Scotland. Mark Gunston has taught watersports for over 30 years, and you can hire paddleboards and kayaks from him.

Kayak Wild Islay have been providing sea kayak tours since 2013.

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REFERENCES A Travellin’ Tale (2021) Loch Chon, Loch Lomond & the Trossachs: Secret Scotland Series, viewed 24th May 2022: https://www.travellintale.com/2021/03/30/secret-scotlandloch-chon/ Allan, V (2021) SS Kaffir. The bizarre story behind Ayr’s Clyde Puffer Wreck, viewed 22nd August 2022: https://www.heraldscotland.com/news/19746281.ss-kaffir-bizarre-storybehind-ayrs-clyde-puffer-wreck/ Avon Viaduct, Edinburgh & Glasgow Union Canal (2014) viewed 10th February 2022: https://web.archive.org/web/20141222175624/http://www.engineering-timelines.com/scripts/ engineeringItem.asp?id=1249 Brown and Whittaker, O (2000) A treasure lost: the Spanish wreck in Tobermory Bay. Tobermory. Page(s): passim RCAHMS Shelf Number: D.11.13.BRO Cottam, L (2019), SSSI definition: what it is and what does it mean for conservation and development? viewed 19th August 2022: https://www.woodlandtrust.org.uk/ blog/2019/03/sssi-definition/ Clyde Waterfront, History (2003) viewed 26th January 2022: http://www.clydewaterfront. com/clyde-heritage/river-clyde/history-of-the-river-clyde Deanston’s Past (2021) Done and Deanston.com, viewed 17th August 2022: https://douneanddeanston.com/deanston/ Eilean Nam Faoileag, Archaeology Notes (1964) viewed 15th February 2022: https://canmore.org.uk/site/6491/eilean-nam-faoileag Explore Dumfries and Galloway (2018), Galloway Activity Centre, viewed 27th December 2021:https://www.explore-dumfries-galloway.com/things-to-do/family-fun/galloway-activitycentre/ Go Wild Highlands – Open Canoe Trips and Excursions 2022) viewed 18th February 2022: https://www.gowildhighlands.co.uk Innes Chonnel Castle - Clan Campbell Society (North America), (2022) viewed 17th June 2022: https://www.ccsna.org/innis-chonnel-castle Isle of Kerrera Development Trust 2022) Gylen Castle, viewed 25th June 2022: https://isleofkerrera.org/see-and-do Loch Earn Tourist Information (2018) Welcome to Roy Roy Country – A Place for All Seasons – Loch Earn, viewed 8th December 2021: http://www.robroycountry.com/lochearnhead.html Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park, 2020, Loch Earn, viewed 8th December 2021: https://www.lochlomond-trossachs.org/things-to-see/lochs-in-the-national-park/loch-earn/ MacLean, C and MacCannell D (2017) Scotland’s Secret History: The Illicit Distilling and Smuggling of Whisky, Birlinn Ltd

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Mull and Iona Visitor Charter (2022) Fidden Beach, viewed 9th August 2022: https://visitmullandiona.co.uk/listings/fidden-beach/ MyWay LLC (2010-2022) Morag of Loch Morar, viewed 20th August 2022: https://www.scottish-at-heart.com/morag-loch-morar.html National Resource Scotland, (2022) The Development of Scotlands Harbours, viewed 25th February 2022: https://www.nrscotland.gov.uk/research/learning/features/thedevelopment-of-scotlands-harbours Neil, C (2002) Loch Morar Visitor Guide, viewed 20th August 2022: https://outaboutscotland.com/loch-morar/ Northern Lighthouse Board, (2022) Tarbart Ness Lighthouse, viewed 17th March 2022: https://www.nlb.org.uk/lighthouses/tarbatness/ The Peatlands Partnership, (2002) The Flow Country, viewed 25th February 2022: https://www.theflowcountry.org.uk Scottish Canals (2022) Discover the Glasgow to Edinburgh Canoe Trail, viewed 3rd February 2022: https://www.scottishcanals.co.uk/activities/paddling/glasgow-edinburghcanoe-trail/ Scottish Canals (2022) History of the Forth and Clyde Canal, viewed 22nd August 2022: https://www.scottishcanals.co.uk/heritage/forth-clyde-canal/ Scotland Info Guide (2019) The Ultimate Scottish Coastal Route – Driving the Entire West Coast of Scotland, viewed 10th May 2022: https://www.scotlandinfo.eu/ultimatescottish-coastal-route-driving-entire-west-coast-of-scotland/ Scottish National Heritage (2013) Caithness and Sutherland: Places to Visit for Wildlife and Landscape Scotlandinoils (2013) Arthur Clan, viewed 10th May 2022: http://www.scotlandinoils.com/ clan/Clan-MacArthur.html South Of Scotland Destination Alliance (2019) Kenmure Castle, viewed 28th December 2021:https://scotlandstartshere.com/point-of-interest/kenmure-castle Venture North − Tourist Information for Caithness and Sutherland (2015) Caithness and Sutherland, viewed 18th February 2022: https://www.venture-north.co.uk/about Wild About Argyll (2019) Be Awe-inspired! 10 things to do in and around Loch Awe, viewed 10th May 2022: https://www.wildaboutargyll.co.uk/whats-new/blogs/be-awe-inspired10-things-to-do-in-and-around-loch-awe/ Undiscovered Scotland (2000-2022) Arbroath, viewed 27th July 2022: https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/arbroath/arbroath/index.html Undiscovered Scotland (2000-2022) Eriskay, viewed 18th August 2022: https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/eriskay/eriskay/index.html

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS To think that I’ve actually written a book feels ridiculous. Those who know me well know that paddleboarding and the development of the sport within Scotland has a huge place in my heart. Glasgow Paddleboarders Co started out as a Facebook group and has grown into an adults club, with lessons for kids, offering holidays, day trips, training for instructors, and racing events, allowing me to follow what started out only as a hobby all over Scotland. In the summer between Covid lockdowns, there was a lot of demand in Glasgow for something people could do in their own area. Given that 90 per cent of the UK's surface freshwater is in Scotland, it’s little wonder so many people took to it. That helped turn a small Facebook group for people looking for others to go out with into something much greater. Anything is possible when you put your mind to doing something you love. This book could not have been written without the support of a worldwide paddleboarding community, whether through the contribution of photos, discussion about routes or networking with others further afield. I think my wife Alison probably thought I was completely mad taking on this task whilst running a full-time business, working two days a week as a primary school teacher and being a dad to our two wonderful children. Alison deserves a medal for putting up with me. I’ve certainly won a catch with her and am very thankful for her patience and kindness in allowing me to do what I do. A huge thanks also goes to all of the Glasgow Paddleboarders Co instructors past and present for all of their hard work. After Bloomsbury approached me to write the book I spoke with two people. Lizzie Carr MBE, the founder of Planet Patrol, said, ‘Ally, are you sure? It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done.’ Ben Longhurst, co-founder of Water Skills Academy, said, ‘A book! That’s brilliant. A big task ahead, then.’ These two people are inspirational in their approach to life and how they do things. I knew writing a book was a big task, but probably didn’t realise the research, time and effort that would need to go into it. Glasgow Paddleboarders Co works with Planet Patrol to help keep the canal in and around Glasgow clean, and with the support of one of my instructors, Rachael Pirie, this has been possible on a regular basis. The worldwide work that Planet Patrol do with the aim of improving waterways in incredible and the work of the wider team in the charity is amazing. Ben invited me into the Water Skills Academy team as a trainer in April 2021. The WSA’s values, especially promoting being environmentally friendly, are a huge part of the reason why joining their team was so important to me. Water safety has never been more prominent in the media. My educational background has always meant imparting my knowledge to others has been very important to me. These two companies do so much to support others around them to ensure the water we operate in is safer and cleaner. Thank you for all that you have created and continue to do for our industry.

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PHOTO CREDITS All photos are the author’s unless otherwise stated: Evelyn Abernethy (22 top, 98, 99), Lucie Ainsworth (21 top), Paul Arnott (1, 91), Blue Coast Surf (191), Corrie Campbell (145 bottom, 146, 147), Lianne Campbell (169), Sarah Chiodetto (41 top), Dianne Dalrymple (93 top), Rob Elliot (37 right), Gwen Erskine (115), Rachel Fraser (15 top), Kat Galbraith (31 top), Getty (4–5, 26, 46, 47 bottom, 48, 55, 57 top, 58–9, 60, 61, 66, 68, 70, 79, 80, 89, 105, 106, 107, 117 top, 118–19 top, 130 top, 132, 134, 135, 137, 138), M Griffin (164), Paul Kerr (8), Debbie Kirk (18, 20 top, 117 bottom, 118 bottom, 119 bottom), Stephanie Kitching (114), Shonah Macdonald (69, 184 top), Leanne Mackay (67), Rhionna Mackay (125, 127 top), Mannsbro Media (24, 25), Yvonne McBroom (12), David Meikle (63, 85, 121, 139), Kirsty Mellam (13), Naomi Miller (20–1 bottom, 22 bottom, 152), North Coast Watersports (128, 129, 130 bottom left and right), Ronald Parker (81, 180–1 top, 181 bottom), Robert Partridge, Creative Commons (126), Claire Platts (180), Rona Proudfoot (112 left), Kirsten Quince (29 top), Alexis Rindaly (49), Angela Russell (14), Eric Sonya (52), David Steele (184 bottom, 185), Sarah Thornely (2–3, 165 top, 171 bottom), Daniel Walsh (45, 47 top and middle), Jo Want (157 top), Kirsty Whyte (182, 187), James Wight (50, 51), D Wilkinson, Creative Commons (127 bottom), Rachel Wilson (53, 57 bottom). A group heads under Bow Fiddle Rock (chapter 13).

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192 PADDLE SC OT LA ND

A

Arbroath 44–8 Arden 23–6 Arran 178–81 Ayr Harbour 116–19

L

INDEX

Càrna 148–51 Catterline Bay 49–51 Clairinsh 8–12

Loch Achray 27–31 Loch Ard 32–5 Loch Awe 162–5 Loch Brora 122–4 Loch Chon 36–8 Loch Earn 39–41 Loch Hope 131–2 Loch Ken 110–12 Loch Leven 152–7 Loch Lomond 6–41 Loch Morar 144–7 Loch of the Lowes 113–15 Loch Shin 125–7 Loch Sunart 148–51 Loch Venachar 27–31 Luss 18–22

D

M

B

Balmaha 8–12 Banchory 58–61 Bow Fiddle Rock 62–4

C

Dunnet Bay 128–30

E, F

Eriskay 183–5 Firth of Forth 78–81 Forth & Clyde Canal 90–9

G, H

Glasgow 72–7 Glencoe 152–7 Handa Island 136–8 Holy Isle 178–81

I, K

Inchcailloch 8–12 Inchconnachan 18–22 Inchmurrin 23–6 Inchtavannach 18–22 Inchfad 13–17 Kerrera 158–61

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Ross of Mull 172–7

S

St Mary’s Loch 113–15 Stonehaven 49–51

T, U

Talmine Bay 133–5 Tarbat Ness 139–41 Tobermory 168–71 Trossachs National Park 6–41 Union Canal 90–9

Maryculter 58–61 Milarrochy Bay 13–17 Montrose Bay 53–7 Mull 168–71, 172–7

N, O, P

Nairn 65–9 Oban 158–61 Oronsay 148–51 Outer Hebrides 183–5 Portknockie 62–4

R

Rabbit Islands 133–5 River Clyde 72–7 River Dee 58–61 River Forth 82–6 River Lyon 100–3 River Tay 100–3, 104–7 River Teith 87–9 River Tummel 104–7

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