Origami Construction [1 ed.]

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Origami Construction Giles Towning

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Models & diagrams © Giles Towning BOS booklet 71 First published by British Origami Society, summer 08 Text entry by Joan Homewood, scanning & layout by Nick Robinson Printed in the United Kingdom. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in any retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical photocopying, recording or otherwise without the express written permission of the author and of the British Origami Society. The British Origami Society is a registered charity 293039

www.britishorigami.info 2

Origami Construction Giles Towning

I’ve enjoyed writing this book. I find making models that produce a sound or have movement adds to the excitement of origami. Most of my ideas are quite simple, so hopefully you should assemble them with little difficulty. I hope you enjoy the construction and the subjects I have chosen! The first part of this book contains single-sheet origami, the second contains modular origami. Keep in mind that practise makes perfect!

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contents KEY TO SYMBOLS (page 6) SUBURBIA HOUSE (page 8)

SCREECHERS 1, 2 & 3 (page 9)

CARD SPINNER (page 12)

A TREW DIGGER (page 14) PAPER THICKNESS (page 16)

WHIZZER (page 18)

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TWO PIECE RETRACTABLE TAPE MEASURE (page 19)

TWIST UNIT CONNECTORS (page 26)

BULLDOZER (page 31)

COGS AND GEARS (page 43) BOS PUBLICATIONS (page 53) 5

SYMBOLS 1 Follow the numbered sequence and instructions, eg valley fold.

5 Existing creases.

2 Mountain fold.

3 Valley fold

Larger view. 4 Open out.

7 Reverse folds.

6 Fold down on existing crease. 6

8 Hidden lines.

13 Inflate by blowing hard into the opening.

14 The completed water bomb. A traditional fold from Japan.

12 Tuck flap into pocket, repeat on underside.

11 Fold four points to the centre line crease.

10 Fold four points to the centre line. 9 Fold all four points to the top. 7

SUBURBAN HOUSE 1 Start with a square, colour side down.

2 Fold over top layer and squash flat.

3 Fold behind.

8 With any luck your very own suburban house should stand up.

7 Fold over top layer and squash flat.

6 Fold in a zig zag at 90°. 8

4 Fold down and squash flat.

5 Fold out 90°.

SCREECHER

The weight of the paper is important. The smaller the screecher, the thinner the paper required. Bigger ones requires thicker paper. 1 Start with 150/175gsm paper and cut to a 2:1 rectangle, 120mm x 60mm. Then fold in half.

2 Fold into thirds leaving one third folded over.

3 Refold other side into newly formed pocket, being careful to crease firmly.

6 Hold at the open end only then blow through. 5 Re-crease on the edges and at the bottom of the wedge.

4 Fold in two triangles at one end to form a wedge shape. 9

SCREECHER TWO An old train ticket is good for this one. Shiny side up.

2 Make sure it is creased flat.

1 Fold into thirds.

3 Squash in two triangles at one end. No fingers at this area.

4. Make crease tighter at the base of the wedge.

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5 Hold the wedge shape only and blow through the opening.

SCREECHER THREE Thicker card, (such as a playing card, 250gsm), can be used if you wish.

1 Fold in half. 2 Push in a small triangle on the crease.

3 Finished screecher.

4 Hold the card like so and blow into the opening.

No fingers on this area. 5 To vary the pitch, pinch closer or further away, making the opening larger or smaller.

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CARD SPINNER

1 Fold over, fold under at 45°

The card spinner is a peg and rubber band projectile, using a business card. I use some of the hundreds of taxi cards posted through my door.

2 Fold at 90°

3 Cross sectional view from the side.

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6 Open the peg to let the spinner fly. Sometimes one side of the spinner flies better than the other side …. Why? I don’t know, you should ask a mathematician!

Experiment with your own shapes to see how they fly …. beer mats spin quite well.

5 Push in the spinner as far as it will go. Note that it is offset to one side and this will make it spin.

4 Place a rubber band over a peg. 13

A TREW DIGGER Pauline Trew and her son produced this fantastic digger at a BOS convention. It is such a simple but great design it inspired Max Hume to make a tank. For me, this model was the star of the show at that convention. I’ve drawn this from memory so I hope it is close to the original. 1 Start with one quarter of an A4 paper lengthways.

2 Divide into six then fold in half.

3 Crease in 45° lines then fold over.

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4 Fold over the edges and then fold over the top layer in the centre.

5 Fold around the bottom layer and slot in. Shape the loop to make a track like form. Fold back shovel.

6 Fold up arm.

7 Crimp fold digger arm.

8 The digger arm will now move in multiple positions …. Just try not to get your knees dirty.

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Paper Thickness? The Collins Dictionary definition of thickness is : dimensions of anything measured through it at right angles to length and bredth. The International Standards Organisation (ISO) uses the unit of grams per square metre (GSM / GM / gm2) which is the metric gramage which defines thickness of the paper. I never really thought about this until one day I reloaded paper into my printer and pressed print. The printer then started to drag down one side of the paper, leaving me frantically pushing and feeding down the other side whenever I wanted to print something - arghhh! Unable to find any obvious way to adjust the printer for the new 80gsm paper was thinner than the previous 80gsm paper I put in some 100gsm paper - it seemed to do the trick but now came with the worrying thought that I might have to “up the gsm” every time I use the printer. When buying the 100gsm paper at the local art/ paper shop I thought I would ask “what is gsm?”. “it’s the thickness of paper” was the reply. “Yes but grams per square metre is a measure of bulk or density but not thickness”. “that’s what the paper manufactures use to measure thickness!” was the reply with a mild air of annoyance, reading inbetween the lines this meant we just work here, we don’t know any more, please don’t ask anymore questions. Grams per square metre is a bulk and gives a good estimation of depth, but not accurate because what goes into paper and different manufacturers the thickness can vary as my printer annoyingly points out! The thickness (calliper) of a single sheet of paper can be measured with a micrometre and measurements can be given in 1000th’s of an inch, millimetres and microns, but paper rarely have such readings advertised. Here’s a few measurements I managed to take with my external micrometer before I was moved on out of the shop...... I’m just glad I didn’t ask what the difference is between card and paper!

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GSM - 1.00mm 535 0.90 425 0.75 350 .60 320 0.41 300 0.50 / 0.42 295 0.50 270 0.48 250 0.56 / 0.47 / 0.30 225 0.31 210 0.41 200 0.32 / 030 190 0.37 / 0.32 150 0.20 130 0.23 / 0.18 Micrometer 125 0.20 120 0.20 / 0.15 Ratchet Spindle 100 0.13 80 0.10 Spindle 63 0.06 50 0.07 34 0.11

Measurement Spindle lock Paper Anvil

Research for explanations was in “The book of fine paper” by Silvie Turner

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WHIZZER (or, A LIGHT SABRE) 1 Cut a strip 10x290mm 80gsm.

2 Fold over at 45 degrees four sections of 14cm, then fold over the rest at 90 degrees

4 Roll up handle tightly. Then roll up the rest of the strip. 3 Fold over all layers (1/6)

5 Place an elastic band over the whizzer and keep it there for a number of hours. 18

6 Remove the elastic band to use, hold with three fingers and flick forward. Replace band when finished.

TWO PIECE RETRACTABLE TAPE MEASURE I created the two piece version before the three piece version, but I was unable to use standard paper for the size or ratio I was completely happy with. For this model please use 65gsm (or similar) tracing paper for the outer casing. Caution should be used with tracing paper as it can be a bit naughty; when you crease it, sometimes it can curve rather than form a straight line. It also it holds a crease so you may need to reverse the creases so they will lie flat. When you do this it might not take the same line and mischievously gives you two creases. Tracing paper can be very rigid and unforgiving, so accuracy is required. 1 Start with a rectangle 288mmx128mm. Divide the 288mm side into 18 segments of 16mm. Then divide the 128mm side into 8 segments of 16mm. The segments should create 144 squares. Carefully fold each crease both ways.

2 NOTE (Only) relevant lines shown.

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7 Sink fold the large triangle only. Repeat on the other side.

6 Fold up and repeat on the other side.

Should now have pockets.

8 Repeat on matching area.

5 Fold over as shown. The point marked ‘A’ is the centre point of a square folded at 45°. This should buckle over to the opposite 45° line. First fold the lowest arrrow, then the rest will follow. 4 Fold and unfold. Repeat on the matching area.

3 Cross section XX next view

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9 15 Rotate 90°.

10 Cross section YY of next step. 14 Outside reverse fold 1mm gap from base line.

13 Fold in point ‘B’ and then fold flat.

12 Open out sides to 90°, going 3D. 11 Fold and unfold. 21

16 Fold up to 3D.

17 Section YY repeat steps 11 to 15.

18 Fold over opposite triangles 2mm only.

19 Outer casing finished.

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21

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25 roll up tightly

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27 Rolling up the handle slowly, compacting as tight as you can. As you roll up the rest of the tape, it does not have to be so tight. 23

28 Place the tape inside the outer casing. Make sure the end of the tape protrudes outside. Slot the two bent over tabs into the two opposite tabs, then fold those two tabs back over and tuck inside.

29 Repeat the last sequence.

30 Turn around

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33 Twist the spindle to retract the tape. This gets easier after a few attempts.

32 Mark a scale if you wish.

31 Pull out the tape until the centre spindle turns.

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THEA’S TWIST UNIT CONNECTOR This was a result of Thea and I “origami doodling” at a BOS meeting. 1 Start with a sheet of A4. 2 Precrease folds. Then fold into a tubular triangle.

5 Use a pencil to ensure the pockets are in a clockwise direction and push the pockets flat from the inside.

4 Push in new corners so they sit concave.

7 Make more units to twist them together.

6 At the other end twist the three corners in an anti clockwise direction. 26

3 Reverse fold three corners.

TWIST UNIT CONNECTOR WITH BEND

8 Start with step no, 2 and add more creases.

9 And some more.

11 Sink fold in all three edges and allow the sides to protrude outwards.

10 Fold into a tubular rectangle. 12 Follow steps 3 to 6 to complete the unit.

13 Make more units, add and twist together. You can make male/male ends and female/ female units. 14 With the extra creases in it will bend about 30°. If you make a longer unit with more creases it will bend more …. or just add more units.

End view.

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FOUR AND THREE WAY CONNECTORS

15 Ratio A5:A3. Start with A3 paper, measure 5 times the width of an A5 twist connector.

17 Fold lines B. B=2/3A. Fold edges to lines B.

16 Precrease folds both ways, then fold in half and unfold.

18 Precrease folds both ways. Then fold to obtain step 19.

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23 Fold in and fold over into pockets.

24 Repear steps 3 to 6 to make male and female ends or for rapid construction tuck ends in and push in the twist units.

22 Open out.

19 Fold as shown to become 3D. 21 Fold up.

20 Sink fold the centre.

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25 Four way connection unit will twist 180°.

27 Three way connection unit. Fold flat one side that has been left open.

28 Tuck inside 26 Like this... 29 and push in to the angle required.

26 and this... 30

BULLDOZER

The bulldozer’s tracks are taken straight from Max Hulme’s Tank which I found in a BOS model collection. It’s a two-piece design. Start with 1/3 of an “A” rectangle, such as A2. 1 Colour side down, fold and unfold.

2 Outside edges to centre and unfold.

4 Outside edges to lines 3 and unfold.

3 Outside edges to opposite lines.

5 Outside edges to opposite lines 3. Unfold. Crease a 45° mark on the centre line. Turn over. 31

11 Fold under. 10 Fold over on lines 4.

9 Fold over on lines 3, then back on lines 2.

8 Reverse fold 45° from line 3. Turn over.

6 With other side up, fold outside edge to lines 4.

7 Fold edge to step 5 mark.

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12 Fold under.

13 Fold over the layer from beneath.

14 Fold inside layer to pocket below.

15 Open out.

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16 Start with lines 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. If you fold the diagonals from line 1 to line 4 first, you have landmarks. Try to keep in line with the track section as best you can, then fold lines 3.5 and 5.25.

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18 Fold over edges.

17 Fold up to 3D. Fold diagonal lines. Fold all lines in both directions.

19 Fold down 90°

20 Existing crease lines.

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23 Fold over.

22 Fold new line first, then fold up existing line.

21 Fold as shown.

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24 Fold inside to create a square hole.

25 Fold up track section.

26 Fold up and down front and back tracks. Fold inside triangles into pockets. 37

32 Open out tracks and mould to shape.

33 Finished cab.

31 Fold up and down front and back of tracks.

30 Fold tracks at 90°.

29 Fold inside bulk behind. Fold inside front valance.

27 Fold down front. 38

28 Fold front valance and tuck the rest inside the top flap in cab.

34 Cut a twelfth of an ‘A’ paper or one quarter of the bulldozer paper. Coloured side up. Fold over to CC and repeat on the other side.

Bulldozer width + one extra track width.

35 Fold back both sides equally, leaving a gap at ‘D D’.

Bull dozer cap width ‘D D’. 39

40 Fold up arm.

41 Repeat steps 36 to 40 on the other side.

39 Fold over one side.

38 Fold over the other side and tuck the corner into the pocket.

36 Fold over one side.

37 Fold over one third top layer only.

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42 Bend arms at 90°, then crease flat blade over.

43 Cut off at distance ‘D D’.

45 Fold in half.

44 Fold over at distance ‘F’ and slot together.

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47 Scrunch up the cut off pieces to make origami rubble.

46 Open out the bulldozer cab and insert the shovel.

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48 Completed bulldozer and head straight for those super complex origami models.

GEARS

COGS AND SPINDLE 1 Start with an A3 paper, with the colour side down. Fold in half and so on until there are thirty two divisions. 2 Do not fold, but draw in lines marked from one end of the paper.

3 Fold or pinch in the diagonal lines across the page.

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4 The lines shown should be the only creases on the paper. Fold as shown, colour side down.

5 Colour side up. Fold around and lap over to the second crease.

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6 Once the cogs and spindle are together, check that there are fourteen teeth on each cog, then fold over 45° at the ends to lock the model together.

Lock here

Once the model is locked together it becomes quite robust.

Note: Four of these models are required and also one more with distance ‘B’ at 140mm or 160mm.

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SPINDLE SHELL BEARING The shell bearing is important to cut down the friction.

7 Push the paper into the first section of the overlap, with the coloured side down.

8 Wrap the paper around.

9 Push the other end into the same slot as in step No. 7. The returned edge can be pushed in with a bit of thick card if this proves tricky. The shell bearing should sit tight around the spindle and not be saggy. Adjust the length to make this so.

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COG AND SPINDLE HOUSING 10 A five house section completed. The overall length of paper is 1830mm, cut a length of over 2000mm to allow for any discrepancies.

11 Section ‘DD’ opened out with the colour side down. It’s best to draw the lines lightly to help folding.

Pegs are quite useful to hold housing together until locked. 47

12 Fold up the sides and tuck in E to F.

13 Fold down the ends.

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14 Tuck in corners on each pillar, points ‘G’ to ‘F’. 15 Fold over ends inside.

16 Place cogs in housing. Make sure there is no friction and it should spin freely.

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17 Fold outside edges into the centre.

19 Fold over at 90°

18 Fold in half.

20 Make ten in total and slot into place holding in the spindle.

21 With all the components in place, twist slowly and all the cogs should move.

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Ideas on Cogs and Origami Originally I chose five slots in the spindle housing so I could show different types of power transit, inline and zig zag, this would be proved with sliding shafts to move the cogs from one side to the other e.g.

Inline transit

zig zag transit

Unfortunately the limitations of the paper or maybe the scale I was using this meant it was not possible even with the introduction of the shell bearing to reduce friction the model would seize up. The cogs and spindles seem quite happy when the same drive is applied evenly on both sides, My original hope for the cogs was a failure. The model I’ve ended up with is dual inline power transit gearing which may go further than six spindles, it’s up to you to find out!

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I diagrammed the cogs straight after it was completed so there is plenty of room for experimentation. It may be using elephant hide paper may get the result I originally wanted, or even using different ratio cogs, trial with making different cogs and see if they can be set to move at 90 degrees? Maybe a worm drive is possible? Please experiment further with any of my ideas, that’s the beauty of origami - other people can take your ideas further or in other directions. Sometimes you accidentally recreate someone else’s model but if you have constructed it in a different way then that’s OK, your creation will just have to be origami penguin Number 6325. Its always fascinating bouncing ideas around and seeing the results. Random origami thoughts may not result in a positive finish but its not a failed idea as it may lead to or apply to something else in the future. A failed idea is having no idea (disturbingly a common feeling!), however pursuing an idea to see how much mileage it has often leads to new ideas. Have a go, see where it takes you, an origami thermometer perhaps? I hope you have enjoyed “Origami Constructions” if you have then maybe you might like my other book coming soon.

Giles teaching his tape measure to Angela Loveridge

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BOS publications 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54

History of Origami Origami and Mathematics History of Origami in Britain Origami Instruction Language Teaching Origami Geometric Division Chess Sets of Wall, Hulme & Elias Napkin Folds Origami and Magic Neal Elias: Selected Works 1964 - 1973 Flexagons Martin Wall: Early Works 1970 - 1979 Orikata Pureland Origami 1 Max Hulme: Selected Works 1973 - 1978 18 Of My Paperfolds Origami Games Philip Shen: Selected Geometric Paperfolds Tony O’Hare: Selected Works 1973 - 1982 Origami Christmas Tree Decorations The Silver Rectangle In Praise of the Bird Base Index: BOS Magazines 1 - 100 Index: BOS Magazines 101 - 120 Envelope and Letter Folds Animal Origami Origami Structural Reconstruction Pureland Origami 2 Paper People and Other Pointers Mor’igami Patterns in Paper Animal Origami 2 Neal Elias: Miscellaneous Folds I Neal Elias: Miscellaneous Folds II Neal Elias: Faces and Busts Jeffori’ 3 Four ‘igami Animal Origami 3 Genius of Jan Willem Derksen Index: BOS Convention Packs Larry Hart: Selected Works (1971 - 1991) Pureland 3:Smith Multiplication The Origami of Stephen Palmer Modular Construction and Twists ABC of Origami Making Faces World of Fred Rohm I World of Fred Rohm II World of Fred Rohm III Origami Models Folded from Rectangles Origami Models Folded from Silver Rectangles More Origami Models from Silver Rectangles

John S. Smith John S. Smith David Lister John S. Smith John S. Smith Mick Guy Mick Guy & Dave Venables John Cunliffe Ray Bolt Dave Venables Paul Jackson Martin Wall Thoki Yenn John S. Smith Dave Venables Paul Jackson Mick Guy and Paul Jackson Paul Jackson Daniel Mason Paul Jackson John Cunliffe John S. Smith John Cunliffe John Cunliffe John Cunliffe Edwin Corrie Jeff Beynon Ricky Wong John S. Smith David Petty Jeff Beynon John S. Smith Edwin Corrie Dave Venables Dave Venables Dave Venables Jeff Beynon Jeff Beynon Edwin Corrie David Petty David Petty Larry Hart John S. Smith Jeff Beynon David Petty David Petty Eric Kenneway David Petty Pete Ford Pete Ford Pete Ford John Morgan John Morgan John Morgan

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55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 92

Sink or Swim with Ted Norminton Petal Folds and More Pureland 4 Owrigami 10 Pop-Ups A Medieval Court in Origami Decorative Boxes from Single Squares Animals and Birds Ship-shape and Bristol Fashion Faces’n’Fings Planar Modulars (CD-rom) The Nativity - An Origami Scene Selected Works of Quentin Trollip Which Came First? 3D Masks and Busts Philip Shen: More Geometric Paperfolds Giles Towning: Origami Construction Darwinism Selected Works : A Second Selection My Fundamentals

Ted Norminton Ted Norminton John S. Smith Francis Ow John S. Smith Julia Pálffy Arnold Tubis and Leon Brown Tony O’Hare Tony O’Hare Tony O’Hare David Petty Lore Schirokauer Quentin Trollip Robert Neale Eric Joisel Boaz Shuval Giles Towning Ted Darwin Max Hulme Kuni Kasahara

Occasional Booklets Paperplay Bibliography: Origami in Education and Therapy COET (Editor)

John S. Smith John S. Smith John S. Smith

Other Booklets Fold With Feeling Hearts 3D Origami Favourites

Nick Robinson David Petty Edwin Corrie

For information about: Buying BOS publications Joining BOS Origami in general Submitting material for publication BOS website

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