On cooking: A textbook of culinary fundamentals [7 ed.] 9780138091163

Table of contents :
Front Cover
Title Page
Copyright Page
Pearson’s Commitment to Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion
About the Authors
Brief Contents
Contents
Recipes
Preface
Acknowledgments
Professionalism
1 Professionalism
Historical Development of the Restaurant Industry
The 18th Century—The First Restaurants
The Early 19th Century—Carême and Grande Cuisine
The Late 19th Century—Escoffier and Cuisine Classique
The Mid-20th Century—Point and Nouvelle Cuisine
The Late 20th and Early 21st Centuries—An American Culinary Revolution
Global Foods, Local Ingredients
Modernist Cuisine
Characteristics of the Modern Food Service Operation
Culinary Technologies
Food Supplies
Consumer Concerns
Organization of Classic and Modern Kitchens
Attributes of Successful Culinary Professionals
Knowledge
Skill
Taste
Judgment
Dedication
Pride
Professional Ethics
Culinary Careers
Hospitality Groups
Alternative Careers
2 Food Safety and Sanitation
Sanitation
Direct Biological Contaminants
Bacteria
Parasites
Viruses
Fungi
Direct Chemical Contaminants
Residual Chemicals
Food Service Chemicals
Toxic Metals
Physical Contaminants
Procedures to Prevent Cross-Contamination
Personal Cleanliness
Dish and Equipment Cleanliness
Proper Food Storage
Food Labeling
Pest Management
Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points (haccp) Systems
Food Allergies and Intolerances
Guidelines for Protecting Hypersensitive Guests
The Safe and Sanitary Work Environment
Personal Safety
Fire Safety
First Aid
3 Nutrition and Healthy Cooking
Nutrition Basics
Essential Nutrients
Carbohydrates
Lipids
Proteins
Vitamins
Minerals
Water
Phytochemicals
Controlling the Concentration and Retention of Vitamins, Minerals and Phytochemicals
Diet-Planning Tools for Healthy Eating
Dietary Guidelines for Americans
Myplate
Nutrition Labeling
Menu Labeling
Government Oversight
Principles of Healthy Cooking
Portion Size
Rethinking the Center of the Plate
Healthful Cooking Techniques and Menu Planning
Recipe Modification to Achieve Dietary Goals
Reduce, Replace or Eliminate
Modifying Recipes
Accommodating Special Diets
Low Sodium Diets
Low-Sugar Diets
Low-Fat Diets
Dairy-Free Diets
Gluten-Free Diets
Allergen-Free Diets
Nutritional Analysis of Recipes
4 Menus and Recipes
Types and Styles of Menus
Types of Menus
Menu Language
Standardized Recipes
Measurements and Conversions
Measurement Formats
Measurement Systems
Converting Grams and Ounces
Converting Recipe Yields and Portion Sizes
Converting Total Yield
Converting Portion Size
Additional Conversion Problems
Calculating Unit Costs and Performing Yield Tests
Unit Costs
Yield Tests
Using Yield Percentages
Cooked Yield Tests
Recipe Costs and Selling Prices
Recipe Cost
Selling Price
Controlling Food Costs
Menu
Purchasing and Ordering
Receiving
Storing
Issuing
Kitchen Procedures: Establishing Standard Portions
Kitchen Procedures: Managing Waste
Sales and Service
Writing Recipes for Publication
Elements of a Recipe Written for Publication
Other Considerations When Crafting a Recipe for Publication
Preparation
5 Tools and Equipment
Knives
Knife Construction
Knife Shapes and Sharpening Equipment
Japanese Knives
Hand Tools
Measuring and Portioning Devices
Cookware
Cookware Metals and Heat Conduction
Other Cookware Materials
Nonstick Coatings
Common Cookware
Strainers and Sieves
Processing Equipment
Heavy Equipment
Storage and Buffet Equipment
Storage Equipment
Buffet Equipment
Safety Equipment and Standards
Safety Equipment
Standards for Tools and Equipment
Conserving Energy in the Professional Kitchen
6 Knife Skills
Using Knives Safely
Caring for and Sharpening Your Knives
Gripping Your Knife
Controlling Your Knife
Using Your Knife
Slicing
Chopping
Cutting Sticks and Dicing
Mincing
Turning Vegetables
Making Parisiennes
Using Specialized Cutting Tools
Using a Spiral Slicer
Using a Mandoline
7 Flavors and Flavorings
The Science of Flavor and Taste
Tastes: Sweet, Sour, Salty, Bitter and Umami
Factors Affecting Perception of Flavors
The Principles of Flavoring Food
Flavor Profiles
Describing Aromas and Flavors in Food
Classic Flavor Combinations
Amplifying Flavors
Experimenting with Flavor
Identifying and Using Herbs and Spices
Herbs
Spices
Storing Herbs and Spices
Using Herbs and Spices
Identifying and Using Salts
Identifying and Using Oils
Identifying and Using Vinegars
Identifying and Using Condiments
Identifying and Cooking with Wines, Beers and Distilled Spirits
Wines
Beers
Distilled Spirits
Guidelines for Cooking with Alcoholic Beverages
Flavor Principles of International Cuisines
Culinary Migrations and Authenticity
International Seasoning Blends
8 Dairy Products
Milk and Milk Products
Milk-Processing Techniques
Concentrated Milks
Cream
Cultured Dairy Products
Storage of Milk and Milk Products
Cheese and the Cheese-Making Process
Cheese Varieties and Categories
Fresh or Unripened Cheeses
Soft Cheeses
Semisoft Cheeses
Firm Cheeses
Hard Cheeses
Goat’s-Milk Cheeses
Processed Cheese
Serving, Storing and Cooking with Cheese
Serving Cheeses
Storing Cheeses
Cooking with Cheese
Analog Milk Products
9 Mise En Place
Mise En Place and How to Use Prep Lists
Creating a Prep List
Quantity Planning
Selecting Tools and Equipment
Measuring Ingredients
Preparing Ingredients Needed for Cooking
Clarifying Butter
Toasting Nuts and Spices
Making Bread Crumbs
Preparing Seasoning Mixtures and Using Flavoring Techniques
Bouquets Garnis and Sachets
Marinades
Brines
Rubs and Pastes
Steeping
Breading, Battering, Blanching and Parboiling
Breading
Battering
Blanching and Parboiling
Making an Ice Bath
Cooking
10 Principles of Cooking
Heat Transfer Through Conduction, Convection and Radiation
Conduction
Convection
Radiation
How Heat Affects Food
Proteins Coagulate
Starches Gelatinize
Sugars Caramelize
Water Evaporates
Fats Melt
Determining Doneness
Introduction to the Basic Cooking Methods
Dry-Heat Cooking Methods
Broiling
Grilling
Roasting and Baking
Barbecue
Smoking
Sautéing
Stir-Frying
Pan-Frying
Deep-Frying
Moist-Heat Cooking Methods
Poaching
Simmering
Boiling
Steaming
Combination Cooking Methods
Braising
Stewing
Sous Vide
11 Stocks and Sauces
Classifications of Stocks
Ingredients for Stocks
Bones
Mirepoix
Seasonings
Principles of Stock Making
White Stock
Brown Stock
Remouillage
Fish Stock and Fish Fumet
Vegetable Stock
Court Bouillon
Nage
Glaze
Infusion
Preparing Sauces Using Thickening and Finishing Techniques
Thickening Agents for Sauces
Finishing Techniques for Sauces
Classic French Mother Sauces
The Béchamel Family
The Velouté Family
The Espagnole Family
The Tomato Sauce Family
The Hollandaise Family
Traditional Sauces
Compound Butters
Beurre Blanc and Beurre Rouge
Pan Gravy
Pan Sauces
Broths
Vegetable and Fruit Sauces
Salsa and Relish
Green Sauces
Coulis
Vegetable Juice Sauces
Foams
Flavored Oils
Using Sauces
12 Soups
Classifications of Soup
Broths
Broth-Based Soups
Consommés
Clarifying Consommés
Correcting a Poorly Clarified Consommé
Cream Soups
Purée Soups
Bisques and Chowders
Cold Soups
Cooked Cold Soups
Uncooked Cold Soups
Garnishing Soups
Guidelines for Garnishing Soups
Garnishing Suggestions
Serving Soup
Reheating Soups for Service
Temperatures
Portion Sizes
13 Principles of Meat Cookery
Muscle Composition of Meats
Meat Inspection and Grading Practices
Aging Meats
Wet Aging
Dry Aging
Purchasing Meats
Imps/namp
Grass-Fed Meats
Storing Meats
Preparing Meats for Cooking
Tying and Trussing
Barding
Larding
Dry-Heat Cooking Methods for Meats
Broiling and Grilling
Roasting
Barbecue
Sautéing
Pan-Frying
Deep-Frying
Moist-Heat Cooking Methods for Meat
Simmering
Combination Cooking Methods for Meats
Braising
Stewing
Cooking Sous Vide
14 Beef
Primal and Subprimal Cuts of Beef
Forequarter Primal Cuts of Beef
Chuck
Brisket and Shank
Rib
Short Plate
Hindquarter Primal Cuts of Beef
Short Loin
Sirloin
Flank
Round
Beef Organ Meats
Nutritional Information for Beef
Basic Butchering Procedures for Beef
Cooking Methods for Common Cuts of Beef
15 Veal
Primal and Subprimal Cuts of Veal
Foresaddle Primal Cuts of Veal
Veal Shoulder
Veal Foreshank and Breast
Veal Rib
Hindsaddle Primal Cuts of Veal
Veal Loin
Veal Leg
Veal Organ Meats
Sweetbreads
Calves’ Liver
Veal Kidneys
Purchasing Veal
Nutritional Information for Veal
Basic Butchering Procedures for Veal
Cooking Methods for Common Cuts of Veal
16 Lamb
Primal and Subprimal Cuts of Lamb
Lamb Shoulder
Lamb Breast
Lamb Rack
Lamb Loin
Lamb Leg
Purchasing Lamb
Domestic vs. Imported Lamb
Goat
Nutritional Information for Lamb
Butchering Procedures for Lamb
Cooking Methods for Common Cuts of Lamb
17 Pork
Primal and Subprimal Cuts of Pork
Pork Shoulder
Boston Butt
Pork Belly
Pork Loin
Fresh Ham
Hocks and Trotters
Purchasing Pork
Nutritional Information for Pork
Butchering Procedures for Pork
Cooking Methods for Common Cuts of Pork
18 Poultry
Muscle Composition and Structure of Poultry
Identifying Categories and Classes of Poultry
Chicken
Duck
Goose
Guinea Fowl
Pigeon
Turkey
Ratites
Livers, Gizzards, Hearts and Necks
Foie Gras
Nutritional Information for Poultry
Inspection and Grading of Poultry
Purchasing and Storing Poultry
Free-Range Poultry
Air-Chilled Poultry
Storing Poultry
Butchering Procedures for Poultry
Dry-Heat Cooking Methods for Poultry
Marinating Poultry
Broiling and Grilling Poultry
Roasting Poultry
Poêléing Poultry
Sautéing Poultry
Pan-Frying Poultry
Deep-Frying Poultry
Moist-Heat and Combination Cooking Methods for Poultry
Moist-Heat Cooking Methods: Poaching and Simmering Poultry
Combination Cooking Methods: Braising and Stewing Poultry
19 Game
Furred or Ground Game
Antelope
Bison (American Buffalo)
Deer
Wild Boar
Rabbit
Feathered or Winged Game
Partridge
Pheasant
Quail
Nutritional Information for Game
Purchasing and Storing Game
Marinating Furred Game
Cooking Methods for Different Types and Cuts of Game
20 Fish and Shellfish
Structure and Muscle Composition of Fish and Shellfish
Identifying Fish
Round Fish
Flatfish
Identifying Shellfish
Mollusks
Crustaceans
Nutritional Information for Fish and Shellfish
Purchasing and Storing Fish and Shellfish
Purchasing Fish and Shellfish
Storing Fish and Shellfish
Fabricating Procedures for Fish and Shellfish
Cooking Methods for Fish and Shellfish
Determining Doneness
Dry-Heat Cooking Methods for Fish and Shellfish
Broiling and Grilling
Baking
Sautéing
Pan-Frying
Deep-Frying
Moist-Heat Cooking Methods for Fish and Shellfish
Steaming
Combination Cooking Methods
Sous Vide
Serving Raw Fish and Shellfish
Raw Fish and Shellfish Dishes
Sushi and Sashimi
21 Eggs and Breakfast
Composition of Eggs
Purchasing and Storing Eggs
Egg Products
Nutritional Information for Eggs
Whipped Egg Whites
Cooking Methods for Eggs
Dry-Heat Cooking Methods for Eggs
Baking
Sautéing
Pan-Frying
Griddling
Moist-Heat Cooking Methods for Eggs
In-Shell Cooking (Simmering)
Poaching
Breakfast and Brunch
Breakfast Meats
Griddlecakes
Crêpes
Cereals and Grains
Identify and Prepare Coffee, Tea and Tisanes
Coffee
Tea and Tisanes
22 Vegetables
Identifying Vegetables
Cabbages
Fruit Vegetables
Gourds and Squashes
Greens
Mushrooms and Truffles
Onions
Pods and Seeds
Roots and Tubers
Stalk Vegetables
Baby Vegetables
Nutritional Information for Vegetables
Purchasing and Storing Fresh Vegetables
Grading Vegetables
Purchasing Vegetables
Ripening Vegetables
Storing Vegetables
Purchasing and Storing Preserved Vegetables
Irradiated Vegetables
Canned Vegetables
Frozen Vegetables
Dried Vegetables
Cooking Methods for Vegetables
Fiber Content and Vegetable Cookery
Acid/Alkali Reactions and Vegetable Cookery
Guidelines for Vegetable Cookery
Determining Doneness of Vegetables
Preserving Nutritional Qualities in Vegetables
Dry-Heat Cooking Methods for Vegetables
Broiling and Grilling
Roasting and Baking
Sautéing
Stir-Frying
Pan-Frying
Pan-Roasting
Deep-Frying
Moist-Heat Cooking Methods for Vegetables
Blanching, Parboiling and Boiling
Steaming
Microwaving
Combination Cooking Methods: Braising and Stewing Vegetables
Puréeing Vegetables
Preserving Vegetables
Drying
Pickling
Fermenting
23 Potatoes, Grains and Pasta
Identifying, Purchasing and Storing Potatoes
Identifying Potatoes
Nutritional Information for Potatoes
Purchasing and Storing Potatoes
Cooking Methods for Potatoes
Roasting and Baking
Sautéing and Pan-Frying
Deep-Frying
Boiling
Identifying, Purchasing and Storing Grains
Identifying Grains
Nutritional Information for Grains
Purchasing and Storing Grains
Cooking Methods for Grains
Simmering
Risotto Method
Pilaf Method
Stir-Fried Rice
Identifying, Purchasing and Storing Pasta
Identifying Pasta
Nutritional Information for Pasta
Purchasing and Storing Pasta
Making Fresh Pasta
Filling Pasta
Cooking Methods for Pasta
Boiling
Accompaniments to Pasta
Garde Manger
24 Salads and Salad Dressings
Identifying Salad Greens
Lettuce
Chicory
Other Salad Greens and Ingredients
Nutritional Information for Salads
Purchasing and Storing Salad Greens
Preparing Salad Greens
Tearing and Cutting Salad Greens
Washing Salad Greens
Drying Salad Greens
Salad Dressings
Vinaigrette Dressings
Mayonnaise-Based Dressings
Emulsified Vinaigrette Dressings
Tossed and Composed Salads
Tossed Green Salads
Composed Green Salads
Garnishing Salads
Bound Salads
Bean, Grain and Pasta Salads
Vegetable Salads
Fruit and Gelatin Salads
Fruit Salads
Gelatin Salads
25 Fruits
Identifying Fruits
Berries
Citrus
Specialty Fruits
Grapes
Melons
Pomes
Stone Fruits
Tropical Fruits
Nutritional Information for Fruits
Purchasing and Storing Fresh Fruits
Grading
Ripening
Purchasing
Storing
Preserving Fruits
Irradiation
Acidulation
Canning
Freezing
Drying
Juicing Fruits
Cooking Methods for Fruits
Determining Doneness
Dry-Heat Cooking Methods for Fruits
Moist-Heat Cooking Methods for Fruits
Making Fruit Preserves
26 Plant-Based Cooking
Plant-Based Eating
Ingredients for Plant-Based Cooking
Soybean-Based Ingredients
Other Popular Ingredients in Plant-Based Cooking
Analog Foods
Principles of Plant-Based Cooking
Suggestions for Preparing Plant-Based Dishes
Modifying a Recipe for Vegetarian and Vegan Diets
Plant-Forward Cooking
27 Sandwiches
Sandwich Ingredients
Sandwich Breads
Sandwich Spreads
Sandwich Fillings
Hot and Cold Sandwiches
Hot Sandwiches
Cold Sandwiches
Mise En Place for Assembling Sandwiches Made to Order
Presenting and Garnishing Sandwiches
28 Charcuterie
Forcemeats
Equipment for Preparing Forcemeats
Forcemeat Ingredients
Meats
Fats
Binders
Seasonings
Garnishes
Preparing Forcemeats
Country-Style Forcemeats
Basic Forcemeats
Mousseline Forcemeats
Quenelles
Using Forcemeats to Prepare Terrines, Pâtés and Galentines
Aspic Jelly
Terrines
Pâtés En Croûte
Galantines
Using Forcemeats to Prepare Sausages
Sausage Meats
Sausage Casings
Equipment for Making Sausages
Salt Curing, Brining and Smoking Meats and Fish
Salt Curing
Brining
Smoking
Cured Pork and Beef Products
29 Hors D’oeuvre
Cold Hors D’oeuvre
Canapés
Crudités
Dips
Caviar
Other Cold Hors D’oeuvre
Hot Hors D’oeuvre
Filled Pastry Shells
Skewers
Meatballs
Hors D’oeuvre Wrapped in Cheese, Meat or Vegetables
Hors D’oeuvre Wrapped in Dough
Other Hot Hors D’oeuvre
Antipasti, Mezze, Tapas and Zakuski
Serving Hors D’oeuvre
Passed Hors D’oeuvre
Buffet Service
Buffet Platters
Baking
30 Principles of the Bakeshop
Bakeshop Tools and Equipment
Bakeshop Ingredients
Flours
Sugar and Sweeteners
Fats
Chemical Leavening Agents
Thickening Agents
Flavorings
Nuts
Measuring Ingredients in the Bakeshop
Baker’s Percentage
Calculating Baker’s Percentage
Mixing Methods
The Baking Process
Gases Form
Gases Are Trapped
Starches Gelatinize
Proteins Coagulate
Fats Melt
Water Evaporates
Sugars Caramelize
Carryover Baking
Staling
31 Quick Breads
Mixing Methods for Quick Breads
Biscuit Method
Muffin Method
Creaming Method
Frying Quick Breads
Qualities of Quick Breads
32 Yeast Breads
Yeast
Types of Yeast
Substituting Yeasts
Natural Yeast Leaveners: Sourdough Starter
Production Steps for Yeast Breads
Step 1: Scaling the Ingredients
Step 2: Mixing and Kneading the Dough
Step 3: Fermenting the Dough
Step 4: Punching Down the Dough
Step 5: Portioning the Dough
Step 6: Rounding the Portions
Step 7: Make-Up: Shaping the Portions
Step 8: Proofing the Products
Step 9: Baking the Products
Step 10: Cooling and Storing the Finished Products
Rolled-In Doughs
Qualities of Yeast Bread
33 Pies, Pastries and Cookies
Pies and Tarts
Crusts
Fillings
Assembling Pies and Tarts
Storing Pies and Tarts
Classic Pastries
Puff Pastry
Éclair Paste
Meringue
Cookies
Mixing Methods for Cookie Dough
Make-Up Methods for Cookies
Storing Cookies
34 Cakes and Frostings
Cake Ingredients
Mixing Methods for Cakes
High-Fat Cakes
Whipped-Egg Cakes
Panning, Baking and Cooling Cakes
Preparing Cake Pans
Filling Cake Pans
Baking Temperatures
Altitude Adjustments for Baking
Determining Doneness of Cakes
Cooling Cakes
Frostings
Buttercream
Foam Frosting
Fudge Frosting
Fondant
Glaze
Royal Icing
Ganache
Assembling and Decorating Cakes
Assembling Cakes
Simple Decorating Techniques
Piping Techniques
Storing Cakes
35 Custards, Creams, Frozen Desserts and Dessert Sauces
Custards
Stirred Custards
Baked Custards
Soufflés
Creams
Crème Chantilly
Bavarian Cream
Chiffon
Mousse
Frozen Desserts
Ice Cream and Gelato
Sorbet and Sherbet
Still-Frozen Desserts
Dessert Sauces
Fruit Purées
Caramel Sauce
Chocolate Syrup
Assembling Desserts
Presentation
36 Plate Presentation
Presentation Techniques for Foods
Preparing Foods Properly
Cutting Foods
Molding Foods
Presentation Techniques for the Plate
Choosing Plates
Arranging Foods on Plates
Decorating Plates
Presentation Techniques for Buffets
Arranging Food on Serving Pieces
Small Plates
37 Buffets
Understanding Buffets
Planning the Buffet
Communicating the Plan
Designing Buffets
Arranging the Tables
Arranging Items on the Buffet Table
Presenting and Maintaining Buffets
Controlling Costs
Keeping Hot Foods Hot
Keeping Cold Foods Cold
Replenishing Foods
Serving the Guests
Appendix I
Top Causes of Food-Borne Illness
Appendix II
Measurement and Conversion Charts
Appendix III
Typical Yield Percentages for Common Produce Items
Glossary
Recipe Index
Subject Index
Credits

Citation preview

ON COOKING A T E X T B O O K O F C U L I N A R Y F U N DA M E N TA L S SEVENTH EDITION

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About

On Cooking, Seventh Edition The seventh edition of On Cooking follows the model established in previous editions, which have prepared thousands of students for successful careers in the culinary arts by building a strong foundation based on sound fundamental techniques. Students and instructors alike have praised On Cooking for its comprehensive yet accessible coverage of culinary skills and cooking procedures. Chapters focus on six areas that are essential to a well-rounded culinary professional:

➊ Professionalism Background chapters introduce students to the field and feature

material on food history, food safety and menu planning. Updated food safety information reflects the most recent regulations. The chapter on nutrition ties nutrition basics to principles of healthy cooking and preparing food for guests who follow special diets.

➋ Preparation Chapters cover the core subjects all culinary students should be famil-

iar with before stepping into the kitchen. Equipment, basic knife skills and mise en place concepts are explained and illustrated. Staple ingredients, such as dairy products, herbs and spices as well as flavor profiles are also presented in this section.

➌ Cooking These chapters explain and then demonstrate fundamental cooking techniques with a wide range of recipes. Individual chapters focus on different categories of key ingredients such as meats, poultry, fish, eggs and vegetables.

➍ Garde Manger These chapters cover kitchen preparations including salads, sandwich making, charcuterie and hors d’oeuvre preparations. Material is of sufficient depth to support a complete unit on garde manger skills.

➎ Baking These chapters cover a range of classic and contemporary breads and pastries that every culinary student should know. The material is sufficient to support a stand-alone unit on breads and dessert preparation.

➏ Presentation Chapters on plate and buffet presentation demonstrate traditional and contemporary techniques for enhancing the visual presentation of food. The basics of buffet setup and management are also included in this section.

UPDATES More than 325 new photographs and illustrations clearly show core techniques, equipment and foods. A revised Nutrition and Healthy Cooking chapter now includes expanded information on health-related and vegetarian diets. A new Plant-Based Cooking chapter as well as more vegetarian and vegan recipes throughout help inspire students to refocus their food choices. Content updates, including more than 90 new recipes, plus dozens of recipe variations, reflect current trends with a focus on international cuisines and flavor profiles. Expanded coverage of fermenting, preserving and pickling shows students modern cooking techniques widely used in professional kitchens. Expanded discussion of fabrication and yield testing helps students recognize the importance of tracking costs. A greatly enhanced support package includes MyLab Culinary® with Pearson eTextbook and Pearson Kitchen Manager, our online recipe management system. An online instructors’ manual featuring performance-based learning activities, an improved test bank and lecture-based PowerPoint slides are also available.

iii

Visual Guide for the Reader Easy to navigate, On Cooking is broken down into bite-size subsections as reflected in the detailed table of contents. We invite you to take the following tour to explore the flavors of On Cooking.

HALLMARK FEATURES Af ter studying this chapter, you will be able to:

Learning Objectives Each chapter begins with clearly stated objectives that enable you to focus on what you should achieve by the end of the chapter.

1.1 name key historical figures responsible for

the development of the restaurant industry and describe the contributions of each

1.2 list and describe characteristics of modern

food ser vice operations

1.3 explain the organization of classic and

modern kitchens

1.4 identify the attributes a student needs to

become a successful culinar y professional

1.5 describe the importance of professional

ethics for chefs and list specific behaviors that all culinar y professionals should follow

1.6 describe some of the culinar y careers

Chapter Introduction

▲

cooker y the ar t, practice or work of cooking cooking (1) the transfer of energy from a heat source to a food; this energy alters the food’s molecular structure, changing its texture, flavor, aroma and appearance; (2) the preparation of food for consumption professional cooking a system of cooking based on a knowledge of and appreciation for ingredients and procedures

Safety Alerts

iv

The Temperature Danger Zone

Brief alerts remind you of safety concerns and encourage you to incorporate food safety and sanitation into your regular kitchen activities.

▲

Flavor Sidebars

Green sidebars explain how flavoring ingredients may be used to change the character of a dish.

Cooks have produced food in quantity for as long as people have eaten together. For millennia, chefs, whether they be Asian, Native American, Aboriginal, European or African, have catered to the often elaborate dining needs of the wealthy and powerful; and for centuries, vendors in China, Europe and elsewhere have sold foods to the public that they prepared themselves or bought from others. But in the West, the history of the professional chef is of relatively recent origin. Its cast is mostly French, and it is intertwined with the history of restaurants—for only with the development of restaurants in Europe and North America during the late 18th and early 19th centuries were chefs expected to produce, efficiently and economically, different dishes at different times for different diners.

Safety Alert

stage [stahzh] a brief internship or training session in a professional kitchen; from the French stagiaire, meaning apprentice or intern; in Asia and Europe, this work is unpaid

Classic Poultry Flavors Ever versatile, chicken can be flavored with delicate herbs or robust, fiery spices. When roasted, chicken benefits from a simple grating of salt and pepper. Light sauces made from pan juices or velouté accented with tender herbs, lemon and white or black pepper are typical accompaniments that enhance the pure flavor of the poultry. But skin-on chicken pieces withstand marinating in wet or dry spice mixtures before grilling, roasting or stewing. Spice blends from adobo to garam masala can be used with any type of poultry. The versatility of poultry may account for its popularity. Dark meat from turkey legs can substitute for lamb or pork in kebabs or stews. And boneless skinless chicken or turkey breast, when sliced thinly and pounded, makes excellent cutlets.

This book describes foods and cooking equipment, explains culinar y principles and cooking techniques and provides recipes using these principles and techniques. No book, however, can provide taste, creativity, commitment and judgment. For these, chefs and other culinary professionals must rely on themselves. This chapter explores the rich history of the restaurant industry in the West and the individuals who influenced the development of the profession. It also outlines the attributes of the professional chef. As you begin your culinary studies, we hope that you find inspiration in the history of the Western food service industry as you learn about the qualities that will guide you in your chosen career.

HIS TORICAL DEVELOPMENT

▲

Important terms appear in the margins to help with mastery of new terminology. A phonetic pronunciation guide assists with non-English terms.

ike any fine ar t, great cookery requires taste and creativity, an appreciation of beauty and a mastery of technique. Like the sciences, successful cookery demands knowledge and an understanding of basic principles, and like any successful leader, today’s professional chef must exercise sound judgment and be committed to achieving excellence in all endeavors.

today’s student may pursue

Chapter introductions summarize the main themes in each chapter and provide an overview of topics. Learning objectives are aligned with top-level headings in each chapter, numbered so that you can easily locate information.

Margin Definitions

L

The temperature danger zone is a broad range of temperatures in which most of the bacteria that cause foodborne illnesses multiply rapidly. The 2022 Food Code of the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), indicates that the temperature danger zone begins at 41°F (5°C) and ends at 135°F (57°C). Regulations in some localities and with some organizations may vary. This text uses the range recommended by the FDA.

▲

Procedure for Rolling and Shaping Dough for Lattice Crusts

Procedures

Step-by-step color photographs show various stages in the preparation of ingredients and dishes to help you visualize techniques and encourage you to review classroom or kitchen activities whenever necessary. Her bs

➊ Roll the dough out and line the pan as specified in the previous procedure. Spoon or pour the filling into the dough-lined pan. Using a ruler as a guide, cut even strips of the desired width, typically ½ inch (1.2 centimeters). Position several strips of dough across the pie in one direction. For the traditional lattice shown here, the strips of dough should all be the same width and should be spaced evenly on top of the filling.

➋ Fold back every other strip of dough. Lay

another strip of dough across the top of the pie, perpendicular to the first strips. Unfold the strips of dough, and then fold back the alternate strips. Lay another strip of dough perpendicular to the first strips. Unfold the folded strips and refold the alternate strips. Repeat the weaving process until the surface of the pie is covered with an attractive pattern of dough.

➌ Trim any overhanging dough and crimp the lattice strips to the bottom crust to seal. A small amount of water can be used to help attach the strips to the edge of bottom crust before crimping.

Micro basil

▲

Product Identification

MISE EN PL ACE Cut beef shank into pieces. Peel and chop onions, carrots and celery for mirepoix. Wash and peel turnips and leeks and cut into medium dice. Wash, peel, seed and dice tomatoes. Prepare herb sachet.

▲

Hundreds of original color photographs help you recognize and identify ingredients. You can explore a huge variety of foodstuffs such as fruits, berries, chocolates, herbs, fish, spices, meats and fine cheeses.

Micro cilantro

Thai sweet basil

Fragrant herbs are available fresh or dried. Because drying alters their flavors and aromas, fresh herbs are generally preferred and should be used if possible. Micro herbs are the first true leaves of virtually any edible herb, such as basil or chervil. Micro herbs are very fragile and must be handpicked and carefully packaged for delivery. They are bursting with intense flavor; chefs use them as garnishes, especially on entrées and canapés. Basil (Fr. basilic) is one of the great culinary herbs. It is available in a variety of “flavors”—cinnamon, garlic, lemon, even chocolate—but the most common is sweet basil. Sweet basil has Micro cher vil light green, tender leaves and small white flowers. Its flavor isn’t actually sweet, but rather strong, warm and slightly peppery, with a hint of anise and cloves. Basil is used in Basil Mediterranean and some Southeast Asian cuisines and has a special affinity for garlic and tomatoes. When purchasing fresh basil, look for bright green leaves; avoid flower buds and wilted or rust-colored leaves. Dried sweet basil is readily available but has a decidedly weaker flavor than fresh. Opal basil is named for its vivid purple color. It has a tougher, crinkled leaf and a medium-strong flavor. Opal basil may be substituted for sweet basil in cooking, and its appearance makes it a distinctive garnish. Thai sweet basil (Th. bai horapha) has a narrow leaf and purple stem. It has a slight licorice flavor and is used in both raw and cooked dishes in Southeast Asian cuisines. Bay (Fr. laurier), also known as sweet laurel, is a small Opal basil tree that produces tough, glossy leaves with a sweet balsamic aroma and peppery flavor. In cooking, dried bay leaves are often preferred over the more bitter fresh leaves. Essential in French cuisine, bay leaves are part of the traditional bouquets garnis and court bouilBay leaves lon. Whole dried bay leaves are usually added to a dish at the start of cooking, then removed when sufficient flavor has been extracted. Chervil (Fr. cerfeuil), also known as sweet cicely, is native to Russia and the Middle East. Its lacy, fernlike leaves can be used as a garnish. Chervil’s flavor is delicate, similar to parsley but with the distinctive Cher vil

Tail (caudal fin)

Mise en Place

Backbone

Dorsal fin Operculum (gill cover)

French for “put in place,” this feature accompanying inchapter recipes provides a list of what you must do before starting a recipe, such as preheating the oven, chopping nuts or melting butter.

Vent

Ribs Anal fin

Pectoral fin Pinbones

Pelvic fin

20.1 Bone structure of a round fish. Tail (caudal fin)

Backbone

Dorsal fin Operculum (gill cover)

Icons Icons identify recipes that are vegetarian, vegan or good choices for health-conscious diners.

Vegetarian

Vegan

Line Drawings

Ribs

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Good Choice

Pectoral fin

Anal fin

Detailed line drawings illustrate tools and equipment without brand identification. Other drawings depict the skeletal structure of meat animals, fish and poultry.

20.

Pinbones

Vent

Pelvic fin

Bone structure of a f latfish.

Stacked muscle fibers

Individual muscle fiber

20.3 Muscle fibers in a round fish.

v

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Recipes

Chocolate Cherry Scones

Measurements

Houston Community College, Houston, TX Pastry Chef Eddy Van Damme

All recipes include both U.S. and metric measurements. To aid in teaching scaling and consistent baking practices, we also provide metric equivalents for all temperatures, pan sizes and measurements throughout the text. Baking recipes include measurements in baker’s percentage, which is fully explained in Chapter 30, Principles of the Bakeshop.

Variations Recipe variations show how to modify recipe ingredients to create new dishes.

Nutritional Analysis

YIELD 24 Scones, approx. 4¼ oz. (130 g) each

METHOD Biscuit

Unsalted butter, cold Granulated sugar Buttermilk Sour cream Salt Vanilla extract All-purpose or pastry flour Baking powder Dried cherries Chocolate chunks Total dough weight:

14 oz. 4 oz. 8 fl. oz. 1 lb. 0.6 oz. (1 Tbsp.) 0.5 fl. oz. (1 Tbsp.) 2 lb. 2 oz. 1 lb. 9 oz. 6 lb. 6 oz.

420 g 120 g 240 ml 480 g 18 g 15 ml 960 g 60 g 480 g 270 g 3063 g

44% 12.5% 25% 50% 2% 1.5% 100% 6% 50% 28% 319%

1 Chill a mixer bowl and paddle attachment in the freezer for at least 15 minutes before mixing. 2 Cut the butter into 1-inch (2.5-centimeter) cubes. Set aside in the refrigerator. 3 Whisk together the sugar, buttermilk, sour cream, salt and vanilla extract in a bowl until smooth. Set aside in the refrigerator. 4 Put the flour and baking powder in the chilled mixer bowl. Place the butter on top. Mix on low speed using the paddle attachment until the mixture resembles coarse meal. 5 Add the buttermilk mixture to the dry ingredients and mix very briefly, until just combined. Mix in the cherries and chocolate until just combined. 6 Scale the dough into three uniform pieces. On a lightly floured surface, press each piece of dough out into an 8-inch (20.5-centimeter) disk using a metal torte ring or other form as a guide. 7 Cut each disk of dough into eight wedges. Position the wedges of dough spaced 2 inches (5 centimeters) apart on parchment-lined baking sheets. Bake at 375°F (190°C) until light golden brown, approximately 18–24 minutes. When cool, dust with powdered sugar if desired. Variation: Cinnamon Orange Scones—Omit the sun-dried cherries and chocolate chunks. Add 0.5 ounce (2 tablespoons/ 15 grams/1.5%) ground cinnamon and 0.2 ounce (1 tablespoon/6 grams/0.6%) grated orange zest in Step 3. Yield is reduced to 4 pounds 15 ounces (2313 grams). Approximate values per 4¼-oz. (130-g) scone: Calories 430, Total fat 21 g, Saturated fat 13 g, Cholesterol 45 mg, Sodium 550 mg, Total carbohydrates 58 g, Protein 6 g, Vitamin A 25%, Calcium 20%, Iron 15%

All recipes include a nutritional analysis prepared by a registered dietician.

Illustrations Recipes are illustrated with both sequential photos showing the preparation of dishes and many finished-dish photos that show presentation ideas. ➊ Mixing in the chilled butter.

➋ Adding the chilled buttermilk mixture.

➌ Placing the portioned dough on baking sheets.

Finished dish photos illustrate ways to present the recipes.

Sidebars Sidebars present information on food history, food in culture, sustainability and the background of professional foodservice. These sidebars help you understand the culinary arts in a wider social context.

Questions for Discussion vi

Questions for Discussion, which appear at the end of each chapter, encourage you to integrate theory and technique into a broader understanding of the material.

Affordable Purchase Options for Students Print: On Cooking, Seventh Edition is available as a hard-cover text through an affordable, rent-to own option. eTextbooks: This text is also available in multiple eBook formats. These are a great choice for busy students interested in saving money. As an alternative to renting or purchasing the printed textbook, students can purchase an electronic version that includes all of the same content. Pearson eTextbook is an easy-to-use digital text. It lets students customize how they study and learn with enhanced search functions and the ability to create flashcards, highlight passages, add notes and listen to the audio version all in one place. The mobile app lets students learn wherever life takes them, offline or online. For more information on Pearson eTextbooks, visit www.pearsonplus.com. MyLab Culinary: On Cooking, Seventh Edition is available in the premium digital offering known as MyLab Culinary. Read on to learn more about MyLab Culinary or visit www.myculinarylab.com.

Comprehensive Learning and Teaching Package MyLab Culinary

MyLab Culinary is a dynamic, online teaching and learning tool that supports the many ways students learn. It enables students to study and master the content online on their own time and at their own pace. Media-rich, full of assignable interactive assessments, and complete with the Pearson Kitchen Manager online recipe management system, MyLab Culinary has it all. Whether you’re looking for a complete course management system or you just want to provide your students with the ultimate study guide, MyLab Culinary is the technology that provides an experience unrivalled in the industry. Its flexibility allows instructors to create a course that best suits the needs of their curriculum and their students. Key features of MyLab Culinary include: Embedded Pearson eTextbook–Every MyLab Culinary includes access to the Pearson eTextbook, so students can read and do homework in the same place. Note taking, highlighting, watching videos, creating flashcards, and listening to the audio narration of the entire book are just some of the things students love about Pearson eTextbook. ▪

New! MyLab Culinary features an enhanced version of Pearson eTextbook for the Seventh Edition. Additional capabilities include the ability for instructors to assign reading directly from MyLab and the integration of self-assessment questions for students.

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Pearson Kitchen Manager–This online recipe management program comes pre-loaded with all of the recipes from On Cooking. The recipes can be scaled and edited, and new recipes can be added. Pearson Kitchen Manager can also be used to build menus, generate shopping lists and calculate estimated costs at the recipe or menu level. ▪

New for the Seventh Edition, Pearson Kitchen Manager has been enhanced with: ▪ 300 bonus recipes not included in the textbook ▪ A revamped recipe layout so recipes will print to as a few pages as possible ▪ The ability for groups of students to share and edit a recipe

Instructional Videos–More than 140 video demonstrations reinforce fundamental culinary skills and procedures. These dynamic videos can be found embedded with the Pearson eTextbook, the MyLab Multimedia Library, and may be assigned within MyLab Culinary with provided questions as homework. ▪

New! Forty-three new videos have been produced for the Seventh Edition.

Practice Quizzes and Tests–A wealth of chapter resources provide a variety of homework options that help students master core knowledge and concepts. Exercises include Warm Up, Review, Tests and Video Quizzes.

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Culinary Math Fundamentals–An entire “Chapter 0” dedicated to culinary math fosters the learning of essential math skills needed for success in the kitchen. This chapter features one model problem for 20 identified math concepts, and 10 practice problems for each concept. The Question Help feature takes a step-by-step approach to problem solving and encourages self-remediation. This is only available in MyLab Culinary. ▪

New culinary math problems have been added for most chapters in the text. These unique questions provide students the opportunity to apply their math skills throughout their coursework.

FOR THE STUDENT Personalized Study Tools–Show students what they know, what they don’t, and where to spend their time to fill the gaps. Immediate Feedback–Delivers results on assignments and quizzes that helps keep students on track. Mobile eTextbook–Allows students to read on their phone, laptop or tablet. They can pick up where they left off and learn on the go, anywhere and anytime, online and offline.

FOR THE INSTRUCTOR Learning Management System (LMS) Integration–Instructors can link from Blackboard Learn, Brightspace by D2L, Canvas, or Moodle to MyLab Culinary allowing easy access to assignments, rosters, resources, and grades with the LMS gradebook. Powerful Homework and Test Manager–Instructors can create, import and manage online homework assignments, quizzes and tests that are automatically graded. A wide range of assignment options, including time limits, proctoring and maximum number of attempts allowed. Robust Gradebook Tracking–Student performance is automatically delivered to the gradebook. Item Analysis provides trends such as the number of students who answered correctly/incorrectly, time on task and more. Flexibility–MyLab allows instructors to easily add, remove, or modify existing instructional material. You can also add your own course materials to suit the needs of your students or department. Easily Scalable and Shareable–MyLab enables the management of multiple class sections, and lets other instructors copy settings so a standardized syllabus can be maintained across the department. ix

INSTRUCTOR SUPPLEMENTS As with previous editions, a full set of instructor supplements is available to accompany the Seventh Edition of On Cooking. Instructors can download supplementary materials online at www.pearson.com. Simply search author, title, ISBN or key word(s). Once you have found your text, click “I’m an educator” and then “Instructor Resources”. Next, sign in to your Pearson account or, if you are a new user, create an account as directed.

Instructor’s Manual The Instructor’s Manual includes chapter outlines, learning objectives, key terms, performance-based learning activities, lesson plans, and answers to end-of-chapter Questions for Discussion.

PowerPoint Lecture Presentations This comprehensive set of slide decks can be used by instructors for class presentations or by students for lecture preview or review. There is a presentation for each chapter, including a selection of full-color photographs from the book.

TestGen (Computerized Test Bank) TestGen contains text-based questions in a format that enables instructors to choose questions for creating their own examinations.

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ON COOKING A T E X T B O O K O F C U L I N A R Y F U N DA M E N TA L S SEVENTH EDITION

SARAH R. LABENSKY ALAN M. HAUSE PRISCILLA A. MARTEL Richard Embery and Debby Wolvos Drawings by Stacey Winters Quattrone and William E. Ingram Photographs by

Content Production: Shruti Joshi Product Management: Derril Trakalo Rights and Permissions: Jenell Forschler Please contact https://support.pearson.com/getsupport/s/ with any queries on this content Cover Image by Gita Kulinica/123rf.com Copyright © 2025, 2019, 2015 by Pearson Education, Inc. or its affiliates. All Rights Reserved. Manufactured in the United States of America. This publication is protected by copyright, and permission should be obtained from the publisher prior to any prohibited reproduction, storage in a retrieval system, or transmission in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise. For information regarding permissions, request forms, and the appropriate contacts within the Pearson Education Global Rights and Permissions department, please visit www.pearsoned.com/permissions/. Acknowledgments of third-party content appear on page 1205, which constitutes an extension of this copyright page. PEARSON, ALWAYS LEARNING, and MyLab Culinary are exclusive trademarks owned by Pearson Education, Inc. or its affiliates in the U.S. and/or other countries. Unless otherwise indicated herein, any third-party trademarks, logos, or icons that may appear in this work are the property of their respective owners, and any references to third-party trademarks, logos, icons or other trade dress are for demonstrative or descriptive purposes only. Such references are not intended to imply any sponsorship, endorsement, authorization or promotion of Pearson’s products by the owners of such marks, or any relationship between the owner and Pearson Education, Inc., or its affiliates, authors, licensees or distributors. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Names: Labensky, Sarah R., author. | Hause, Alan M., author. | Martel, Priscilla A., author. Title: On cooking: A textbook of culinary fundamentals / Labensky Sarah R, Hause Alan M., Priscilla A. Martel. Other titles: Textbook of culinary fundamentals Description: Seventh edition. | NY, NY : Pearson, [2025] | Includes index. Identifiers: LCCN 2023027396 | ISBN 9780138091163 (casebound) | ISBN 9780138091255 (ebook) | ISBN 9780138091248 (ebook other) Subjects: LCSH: Cooking—Textbooks. Classification: LCC TX651 .L328 2023 | DDC 641.5—dc23/eng/20230710 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2023027396

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About the Authors SARAH R. LABENSKY Chef Sarah is a culinary educator and academic administrator with an extensive background as a restaurateur and caterer, textbook author and dedicated advocate for culinary professionalism. She was a professor at Woosong University’s Sol International Culinary Arts School in Daejeon, Korea and Founding Director of the Culinary Arts Institute at Mississippi University for Women (MUW) in Columbus, Mississippi. While living in Mississippi, she owned two restaurants and worked as food and beverage director for a country club. Chef Sarah has also taught culinary arts at Scottsdale (Arizona) Community College, Piedmont Virginia Community College (Charlottesville) and spent many years as a working pastry cook and caterer before teaching. In addition to On Cooking, Sarah Labensky is also co-author of On Baking, Webster’s New World Dictionary of Culinary Arts and Applied Math for Food Service. She is a past president of the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) and a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and Les Dames d’Escoffier. Sarah’s passions include travel and mentoring young culinarians to help develop their own professional paths.

ALAN M. (SKIP) HAUSE Chef Skip is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. Upon graduation, Chef Skip worked in both restaurants and hotels before settling in Arizona. For the past 27 years, he has owned and operated Fabulous Food Fine Catering and Events. He also launched and operates Gertrude’s restaurant at the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix, Arizona. Chef Skip is involved in day-to-day food production, planning and execution of catered events as well as overseeing restaurant operations. A long-time member of the American Culinary Federation, Chef Skip is passionate about all aspects of food and cooking. He enjoys mentoring students and cooks, is active in the Careers through Culinary Arts Program (C-Cap) and is a board member of the East Valley Institute of Technology Culinary Program. When not working in the kitchen, Chef Skip pursues his passions entertaining friends, traveling, hiking, biking (both motor and pedal) and, of course, anything to do with food. Chef Skip lives in Scottsdale, Arizona and summers in Kalispell, Montana, with his wife, Chantal, and sons, Logan and Grayson.

PRISCILLA A. MARTEL Priscilla Martel is a professional chef, educator and food writer with a special interest in Mediterranean cuisines and artisan baking. She honed her cooking skills at Restaurant du Village, a country French restaurant she owned in Chester, Connecticut. Today she operates All About Food, which holds baking patents and collaborates with food manufacturers and restaurants to create innovative products and marketing programs. She is a visiting instructor at Boston University’s certificate program in the culinary arts and in the Hospitality Management Program at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Connecticut. She is also a contributing writer for food trade publications and a consultant to the almond industry. To honor her commitment to help young people prepare for their culinary careers, Priscilla Martel volunteers with the Jacques Pépin Foundation, which provides culinary training for those with barriers to employment. She is co-author of On Baking and Math for Bakers (DVD).

Brief Contents Professionalism

1 Professionalism ______________________________1 2 Food Safety and Sanitation ____________ 17 3 Nutrition and Healthy Cooking ______ 39 4 Menus and Recipes _______________________ 65

20 Fish and Shellfish _________________________ 511 21 Eggs and Breakfast ______________________ 583 22 Vegetables __________________________________ 617 23 Potatoes, Grains and Pasta __________ 689

Garde Manger

Preparation

24 Salads and Salad Dressings___________ 741 25 Fruits __________________________________________ 781 26 Plant-Based Cooking ___________________ 817 27 Sandwiches _________________________________ 837 28 Charcuterie _________________________________ 859 29 Hors d’Oeuvre_____________________________ 893

Cooking

Baking

5 Tools and Equipment ____________________ 87 6 Knife Skills___________________________________ 111 7 Flavors and Flavorings __________________ 125 8 Dairy Products ____________________________ 165 9 Mise en Place _______________________________ 183

10 Principles of Cooking ___________________ 195 11 Stocks and Sauces ________________________ 223 12 Soups__________________________________________ 279 13 Principles of Meat Cookery ___________ 317 14 Beef ____________________________________________ 353 15 Veal ____________________________________________ 381 16 Lamb __________________________________________ 403 17 Pork____________________________________________ 423 18 Poultry ________________________________________ 447 19 Game __________________________________________ 499

30 Principles of the Bakeshop____________ 923 31 Quick Breads _______________________________ 951 32 Yeast Breads________________________________ 969 33 Pies, Pastries and Cookies __________ 1003 34 Cakes and Frostings ___________________ 1049 35 Custards, Creams, Frozen Desserts and Dessert Sauces ______ 1089

Presentation

36 Plate Presentation _____________________ 1119 37 Buffets ______________________________________ 1137 xv

Contents Professionalism

1 Professionalism ________________________________1 HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT OF THE RESTAURANT INDUSTRY 2 The 18th Century—The First Restaurants 2 The Early 19th Century—Carême and Grande Cuisine 3 The Late 19th Century—Escoffier and Cuisine Classique 4 The Mid-20th Century—Point and Nouvelle Cuisine 5 The Late 20th and Early 21st Centuries—An American Culinary Revolution 5 Global Foods, Local Ingredients 6 Modernist Cuisine 7

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE MODERN FOOD SERVICE OPERATION 7 Culinary Technologies 8 Food Supplies 8 Consumer Concerns 9

ORGANIZATION OF CLASSIC AND MODERN KITCHENS 12 ATTRIBUTES OF SUCCESSFUL CULINARY PROFESSIONALS 12 Knowledge 13 Skill 13 Taste 13 Judgment 13 Dedication 13 Pride 14

PROFESSIONAL ETHICS 14 CULINARY CAREERS 15 Hospitality Groups 15 Alternative Careers 15

2 Food Safety and Sanitation ______________ 17 SANITATION 18 DIRECT BIOLOGICAL CONTAMINANTS 18 Bacteria 19 Parasites 23 Viruses 23 Fungi 24

DIRECT CHEMICAL CONTAMINANTS 25 Residual Chemicals 25 Food Service Chemicals 25 Toxic Metals 26

PHYSICAL CONTAMINANTS 26 PROCEDURES TO PREVENT CROSS-CONTAMINATION 26 Personal Cleanliness 27 Dish and Equipment Cleanliness 28 Proper Food Storage 30 Food Labeling 31 Pest Management 31

HAZARD ANALYSIS CRITICAL CONTROL POINTS (HACCP) SYSTEMS 32 FOOD ALLERGIES AND INTOLERANCES 35

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GUIDELINES FOR PROTECTING HYPERSENSITIVE GUESTS 35 THE SAFE AND SANITARY WORK ENVIRONMENT 36 Personal Safety 36 Fire Safety 37 First Aid 37

3 Nutrition and Healthy Cooking ________ 39 NUTRITION BASICS 40 ESSENTIAL NUTRIENTS 41 Carbohydrates 41 Lipids 42 Proteins 43 Vitamins 43 Minerals 45 Water 45 Phytochemicals 46 Controlling the Concentration and Retention of Vitamins, Minerals and Phytochemicals 47

DIET-PLANNING TOOLS FOR HEALTHY EATING 47 Dietary Guidelines for Americans 47 MyPlate 48 Nutrition Labeling 48 Menu Labeling 49 Government Oversight 49

PRINCIPLES OF HEALTHY COOKING 50 Portion Size 50 Rethinking the Center of the Plate 51 Healthful Cooking Techniques and Menu Planning 52

RECIPE MODIFICATION TO ACHIEVE DIETARY GOALS 53 Reduce, Replace or Eliminate 53 Modifying Recipes 54

ACCOMMODATING SPECIAL DIETS 56 Low-Sodium Diets 57 Low-Sugar Diets 57 Low-Fat Diets 59 Dairy-Free Diets 60 Gluten-Free Diets 61 Allergen-Free Diets 62 Nutritional Analysis of Recipes 63

4 Menus and Recipes __________________________ 65 TYPES AND STYLES OF MENUS 66 Types of Menus 66 Menu Language 67

STANDARDIZED RECIPES 68 MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSIONS 68 Measurement Formats 68 Measurement Systems 70 Converting Grams and Ounces 70

CONVERTING RECIPE YIELDS AND PORTION SIZES 72 Converting Total Yield 72 Converting Portion Size 73 Additional Conversion Problems 74

CONTENT S

CALCULATING UNIT COSTS AND PERFORMING YIELD TESTS 74 Unit Costs 75 Yield Tests 75 Using Yield Percentages 78 Cooked Yield Tests 79

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Mincing 122 Turning Vegetables 122 Making Parisiennes 123

USING SPECIALIZED CUTTING TOOLS 123 Using a Spiral Slicer 123 Using a Mandoline 123

RECIPE COSTS AND SELLING PRICES 79 Recipe Cost 79 Selling Price 81

CONTROLLING FOOD COSTS 82 Menu 83 Purchasing and Ordering 83 Receiving 83 Storing 83 Issuing 83 Kitchen Procedures: Establishing Standard Portions 84 Kitchen Procedures: Managing Waste 84 Sales and Service 84

WRITING RECIPES FOR PUBLICATION 85 Elements of a Recipe Written for Publication 85 Other Considerations When Crafting a Recipe for Publication 86

Preparation 5 Tools and Equipment _______________________ 87 KNIVES 88 Knife Construction 88 Knife Shapes and Sharpening Equipment 89 Japanese Knives 90

HAND TOOLS 91 MEASURING AND PORTIONING DEVICES 92 COOKWARE 94 Cookware Metals and Heat Conduction 94 Other Cookware Materials 95 Nonstick Coatings 96 Common Cookware 96

STRAINERS AND SIEVES 97 PROCESSING EQUIPMENT 99 HEAVY EQUIPMENT 101 STORAGE AND BUFFET EQUIPMENT 106 Storage Equipment 106 Buffet Equipment 106

SAFETY EQUIPMENT AND STANDARDS 107 Safety Equipment 107 Standards for Tools and Equipment 108

CONSERVING ENERGY IN THE PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN 109

6 Knife Skills _____________________________________ 111 USING KNIVES SAFELY 112 CARING FOR AND SHARPENING YOUR KNIVES 112 GRIPPING YOUR KNIFE 114 CONTROLLING YOUR KNIFE 114 USING YOUR KNIFE 115 Slicing 115 Chopping 117 Cutting Sticks and Dicing 118

7 Flavors and Flavorings ____________________ 125 THE SCIENCE OF FLAVOR AND TASTE 126 Tastes: Sweet, Sour, Salty, Bitter and Umami 126 Factors Affecting Perception of Flavors 128

THE PRINCIPLES OF FLAVORING FOOD 130 Flavor Profiles 130 Describing Aromas and Flavors in Food 131 Classic Flavor Combinations 131 Amplifying Flavors 133 Experimenting with Flavor 133

IDENTIFYING AND USING HERBS AND SPICES 134 Herbs 134 Spices 137 Storing Herbs and Spices 143 Using Herbs and Spices 143

IDENTIFYING AND USING SALTS 144 IDENTIFYING AND USING OILS 145 IDENTIFYING AND USING VINEGARS 147 IDENTIFYING AND USING CONDIMENTS 148 IDENTIFYING AND COOKING WITH WINES, BEERS AND DISTILLED SPIRITS 150 Wines 150 Beers 153 Distilled Spirits 153 Guidelines for Cooking with Alcoholic Beverages 156

FLAVOR PRINCIPLES OF INTERNATIONAL CUISINES 156 Culinary Migrations and Authenticity 161 International Seasoning Blends 162

8 Dairy Products_______________________________ 165 MILK AND MILK PRODUCTS 166 Milk-Processing Techniques 166 Concentrated Milks 167 Cream 167 Cultured Dairy Products 168 Storage of Milk and Milk Products 170

CHEESE AND THE CHEESE-MAKING PROCESS 170 CHEESE VARIETIES AND CATEGORIES 171 Fresh or Unripened Cheeses 171 Soft Cheeses 174 Semisoft Cheeses 174 Firm Cheeses 176 Hard Cheeses 177 Goat’s-Milk Cheeses 178

PROCESSED CHEESE 180 SERVING, STORING AND COOKING WITH CHEESE 180 Serving Cheeses 180 Storing Cheeses 181 Cooking with Cheese 181

ANALOG MILK PRODUCTS 182

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CONTENT S

9 Mise en Place _________________________________ 183 11 Stocks and Sauces ________________________ 223 MISE EN PLACE AND HOW TO USE PREP LISTS 184 Creating a Prep List 185 Quantity Planning 186

SELECTING TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 187 MEASURING INGREDIENTS 187 PREPARING INGREDIENTS NEEDED FOR COOKING 188 Clarifying Butter 188 Toasting Nuts and Spices 189 Making Bread Crumbs 189

PREPARING SEASONING MIXTURES AND USING FLAVORING TECHNIQUES 189 Bouquets Garnis and Sachets 190 Marinades 190 Brines 191 Rubs and Pastes 191 Steeping 191

BREADING, BATTERING, BLANCHING AND PARBOILING 192 Breading 192 Battering 193 Blanching and Parboiling 193 Making an Ice Bath 194

Cooking 10 Principles of Cooking ___________________ 195 HEAT TRANSFER THROUGH CONDUCTION, CONVECTION AND RADIATION 196 Conduction 196 Convection 197 Radiation 197

HOW HEAT AFFECTS FOOD 198 Proteins Coagulate 198 Starches Gelatinize 199 Sugars Caramelize 200 Water Evaporates 200 Fats Melt 200

DETERMINING DONENESS 200 INTRODUCTION TO THE BASIC COOKING METHODS 201 DRY-HEAT COOKING METHODS 201 Broiling 203 Grilling 204 Roasting and Baking 205 Barbecue 206 Smoking 206 Sautéing 206 Stir-Frying 208 Pan-Frying 209 Deep-Frying 210

MOIST-HEAT COOKING METHODS 213 Poaching 213 Simmering 215 Boiling 215 Steaming 216

CLASSIFICATIONS OF STOCKS 224 INGREDIENTS FOR STOCKS 225 Bones 225 Mirepoix 225 Seasonings 226

PRINCIPLES OF STOCK MAKING 227 White Stock 229 Brown Stock 231 Remouillage 233 Fish Stock and Fish Fumet 233 Vegetable Stock 234 Court Bouillon 235 Nage 236 Glaze 236 Infusion 237

PREPARING SAUCES USING THICKENING AND FINISHING TECHNIQUES 237 Thickening Agents for Sauces 238 Finishing Techniques for Sauces 242

CLASSIC FRENCH MOTHER SAUCES 243 The Béchamel Family 244 The Velouté Family 246 The Espagnole Family 248 The Tomato Sauce Family 251 The Hollandaise Family 253

TRADITIONAL SAUCES 255 Compound Butters 255 Beurre Blanc and Beurre Rouge 256 Pan Gravy 258 Pan Sauces 258 Broths 259

VEGETABLE AND FRUIT SAUCES 259 Salsa and Relish 259 Green Sauces 260 Coulis 261 Vegetable Juice Sauces 262 Foams 264 Flavored Oils 265

USING SAUCES 267

12 Soups__________________________________________ 279 CLASSIFICATIONS OF SOUP 280 BROTHS 281 Broth-Based Soups 283

CONSOMMÉS 284 Clarifying Consommés 285 Correcting a Poorly Clarified Consommé 287

CREAM SOUPS 287 PURÉE SOUPS 289 BISQUES AND CHOWDERS 291 COLD SOUPS 293

COMBINATION COOKING METHODS 217

Cooked Cold Soups 294 Uncooked Cold Soups 295

Braising 218 Stewing 218 Sous Vide 219

Guidelines for Garnishing Soups 296 Garnishing Suggestions 296

GARNISHING SOUPS 296

CONTENT S

SERVING SOUP 296

HINDSADDLE PRIMAL CUTS OF VEAL 384

Reheating Soups for Service 297 Temperatures 297 Portion Sizes 298

Veal Loin 384 Veal Leg 384

13 Principles of Meat Cookery ___________ 317 MUSCLE COMPOSITION OF MEATS 318 MEAT INSPECTION AND GRADING PRACTICES 319 AGING MEATS 320 Wet Aging 320 Dry Aging 321

PURCHASING MEATS 321 IMPS/NAMP 321 Grass-Fed Meats 322

STORING MEATS 322 PREPARING MEATS FOR COOKING 323 Tying and Trussing 323 Barding 324 Larding 324

DRY-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR MEATS 324 Broiling and Grilling 324 Roasting 327 Barbecue 333 Sautéing 336 Pan-Frying 338 Deep-Frying 340

MOIST-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR MEAT 340 Simmering 340

COMBINATION COOKING METHODS FOR MEATS 342 Braising 342 Stewing 344 Cooking Sous Vide 349

14 Beef ____________________________________________ 353 PRIMAL AND SUBPRIMAL CUTS OF BEEF 354 FOREQUARTER PRIMAL CUTS OF BEEF 354 Chuck 354 Brisket and Shank 356 Rib 356 Short Plate 356

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VEAL ORGAN MEATS 385 Sweetbreads 385 Calves’ Liver 385 Veal Kidneys 385

PURCHASING VEAL 385 NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION FOR VEAL 385 BASIC BUTCHERING PROCEDURES FOR VEAL 386 COOKING METHODS FOR COMMON CUTS OF VEAL 391

16 Lamb __________________________________________ 403 PRIMAL AND SUBPRIMAL CUTS OF LAMB 404 Lamb Shoulder 404 Lamb Breast 404 Lamb Rack 404 Lamb Loin 405 Lamb Leg 405

PURCHASING LAMB 406 Domestic vs. Imported Lamb 406 Goat 406

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION FOR LAMB 407 BUTCHERING PROCEDURES FOR LAMB 407 COOKING METHODS FOR COMMON CUTS OF LAMB 411

17 Pork____________________________________________ 423 PRIMAL AND SUBPRIMAL CUTS OF PORK 424 Pork Shoulder 424 Boston Butt 424 Pork Belly 425 Pork Loin 426 Fresh Ham 427 Hocks and Trotters 427

PURCHASING PORK 427 NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION FOR PORK 428 BUTCHERING PROCEDURES FOR PORK 428 COOKING METHODS FOR COMMON CUTS OF PORK 432

HINDQUARTER PRIMAL CUTS OF BEEF 357 Short Loin 357 Sirloin 357 Flank 358 Round 358

BEEF ORGAN MEATS 359 NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION FOR BEEF 359 BASIC BUTCHERING PROCEDURES FOR BEEF 359 COOKING METHODS FOR COMMON CUTS OF BEEF 362

15 Veal ____________________________________________ 381 PRIMAL AND SUBPRIMAL CUTS OF VEAL 382 FORESADDLE PRIMAL CUTS OF VEAL 382 Veal Shoulder 382 Veal Foreshank and Breast 382 Veal Rib 383

18 Poultry ________________________________________ 447 MUSCLE COMPOSITION AND STRUCTURE OF POULTRY 448 IDENTIFYING CATEGORIES AND CLASSES OF POULTRY 450 Chicken 450 Duck 452 Goose 452 Guinea Fowl 452 Pigeon 452 Turkey 452 Ratites 452 Livers, Gizzards, Hearts and Necks 453 Foie Gras 453

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION FOR POULTRY 453 INSPECTION AND GRADING OF POULTRY 453

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CONTENT S

PURCHASING AND STORING POULTRY 454 Free-Range Poultry 454 Air-Chilled Poultry 455 Storing Poultry 455

BUTCHERING PROCEDURES FOR POULTRY 455 DRY-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR POULTRY 460 Marinating Poultry 460 Broiling and Grilling Poultry 461 Roasting Poultry 463 Poêléing Poultry 470 Sautéing Poultry 471 Pan-Frying Poultry 474 Deep-Frying Poultry 476

MOIST-HEAT AND COMBINATION COOKING METHODS FOR POULTRY 477 Moist-Heat Cooking Methods: Poaching and Simmering Poultry 477 Combination Cooking Methods: Braising and Stewing Poultry 479

19 Game __________________________________________ 499 FURRED OR GROUND GAME 500

Pan-Frying 547 Deep-Frying 548

MOIST-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR FISH AND SHELLFISH 550 Steaming 550 Combination Cooking Methods 557 Sous Vide 557

SERVING RAW FISH AND SHELLFISH 558 Raw Fish and Shellfish Dishes 559 Sushi and Sashimi 559

21 Eggs and Breakfast ______________________ 583 COMPOSITION OF EGGS 584 PURCHASING AND STORING EGGS 585 Egg Products 586

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION FOR EGGS 587 WHIPPED EGG WHITES 587 COOKING METHODS FOR EGGS 587 DRY-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR EGGS 588

Antelope 500 Bison (American Buffalo) 500 Deer 501 Wild Boar 501 Rabbit 501

Baking 588 Sautéing 589 Pan-Frying 593 Griddling 594

FEATHERED OR WINGED GAME 502

In-Shell Cooking (Simmering) 595 Poaching 595

Partridge 502 Pheasant 503 Quail 503

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION FOR GAME 503 PURCHASING AND STORING GAME 503 MARINATING FURRED GAME 503 COOKING METHODS FOR DIFFERENT TYPES AND CUTS OF GAME 504

MOIST-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR EGGS 595 BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH 596 Breakfast Meats 597 Griddlecakes 597 Crêpes 598 Cereals and Grains 600

IDENTIFY AND PREPARE COFFEE, TEA AND TISANES 602 Coffee 602 Tea and Tisanes 605

20 Fish and Shellfish _________________________ 511 22 Vegetables __________________________________ 617 STRUCTURE AND MUSCLE COMPOSITION OF FISH AND SHELLFISH 512 IDENTIFYING FISH 514 Round Fish 514 Flatfish 519

IDENTIFYING SHELLFISH 520 Mollusks 521 Crustaceans 523

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION FOR FISH AND SHELLFISH 526 PURCHASING AND STORING FISH AND SHELLFISH 527 Purchasing Fish and Shellfish 527 Storing Fish and Shellfish 530

FABRICATING PROCEDURES FOR FISH AND SHELLFISH 531 COOKING METHODS FOR FISH AND SHELLFISH 540 Determining Doneness 541

DRY-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR FISH AND SHELLFISH 541 Broiling and Grilling 541 Baking 543 Sautéing 545

IDENTIFYING VEGETABLES 618 Cabbages 618 Fruit Vegetables 622 Gourds and Squashes 627 Greens 629 Mushrooms and Truffles 630 Onions 632 Pods and Seeds 634 Roots and Tubers 637 Stalk Vegetables 640 Baby Vegetables 643

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION FOR VEGETABLES 643 PURCHASING AND STORING FRESH VEGETABLES 643 Grading Vegetables 644 Purchasing Vegetables 644 Ripening Vegetables 644 Storing Vegetables 644

PURCHASING AND STORING PRESERVED VEGETABLES 645 Irradiated Vegetables 645 Canned Vegetables 645 Frozen Vegetables 646 Dried Vegetables 646

CONTENT S

COOKING METHODS FOR VEGETABLES 646 Fiber Content and Vegetable Cookery 646 Acid/Alkali Reactions and Vegetable Cookery 647 Guidelines for Vegetable Cookery 648 Determining Doneness of Vegetables 648 Preserving Nutritional Qualities in Vegetables 649

DRY-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR VEGETABLES 649 Broiling and Grilling 649 Roasting and Baking 651 Sautéing 652 Stir-Frying 654 Pan-Frying 654 Pan-Roasting 655 Deep-Frying 656

MOIST-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR VEGETABLES 658 Blanching, Parboiling and Boiling 658 Steaming 661 Microwaving 663 Combination Cooking Methods: Braising and Stewing Vegetables 664 Puréeing Vegetables 665

PRESERVING VEGETABLES 667 Drying 667 Pickling 667 Fermenting 668

23 Potatoes, Grains and Pasta __________ 689 IDENTIFYING, PURCHASING AND STORING POTATOES 690 Identifying Potatoes 690 Nutritional Information for Potatoes 692 Purchasing and Storing Potatoes 692

COOKING METHODS FOR POTATOES 693 Roasting and Baking 693 Sautéing and Pan-Frying 696 Deep-Frying 697 Boiling 699

IDENTIFYING, PURCHASING AND STORING GRAINS 701 Identifying Grains 701 Nutritional Information for Grains 706 Purchasing and Storing Grains 706

COOKING METHODS FOR GRAINS 706 Simmering 707 Risotto Method 708 Pilaf Method 710 Stir-Fried Rice 711

IDENTIFYING, PURCHASING AND STORING PASTA 713 Identifying Pasta 713 Nutritional Information for Pasta 716 Purchasing and Storing Pasta 716

MAKING FRESH PASTA 716 Filling Pasta 719

COOKING METHODS FOR PASTA 720 Boiling 720 Accompaniments to Pasta 721

Garde Manger 24 Salads and Salad Dressings___________ 741

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NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION FOR SALADS 746 PURCHASING AND STORING SALAD GREENS 746 PREPARING SALAD GREENS 747 Tearing and Cutting Salad Greens 747 Washing Salad Greens 748 Drying Salad Greens 748

SALAD DRESSINGS 748 Vinaigrette Dressings 749 Mayonnaise-Based Dressings 750 Emulsified Vinaigrette Dressings 753

TOSSED AND COMPOSED SALADS 754 Tossed Green Salads 755 Composed Green Salads 756 Garnishing Salads 757

BOUND SALADS 758 Bean, Grain and Pasta Salads 759 Vegetable Salads 760

FRUIT AND GELATIN SALADS 761 Fruit Salads 761 Gelatin Salads 761

25 Fruits __________________________________________ 781 IDENTIFYING FRUITS 782 Berries 782 Citrus 784 Specialty Fruits 786 Grapes 789 Melons 789 Pomes 791 Stone Fruits 793 Tropical Fruits 794

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION FOR FRUITS 798 PURCHASING AND STORING FRESH FRUITS 798 Grading 798 Ripening 799 Purchasing 799 Storing 799

PRESERVING FRUITS 800 Irradiation 800 Acidulation 800 Canning 800 Freezing 800 Drying 801

JUICING FRUITS 801 COOKING METHODS FOR FRUITS 802 Determining Doneness 802 Dry-Heat Cooking Methods for Fruits 802 Moist-Heat Cooking Methods for Fruits 806 Making Fruit Preserves 808

26 Plant-Based Cooking ___________________ 817 PLANT-BASED EATING 818 INGREDIENTS FOR PLANT-BASED COOKING 819 Soybean-Based Ingredients 819 Other Popular Ingredients in Plant-Based Cooking 822 Analog Foods 822

IDENTIFYING SALAD GREENS 742

PRINCIPLES OF PLANT-BASED COOKING 823

Lettuce 742 Chicory 743 Other Salad Greens and Ingredients 744

PLANT-FORWARD COOKING 826

Suggestions for Preparing Plant-Based Dishes 823 Modifying a Recipe for Vegetarian and Vegan Diets 824

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CONTENT S

27 Sandwiches _________________________________ 837 SANDWICH INGREDIENTS 838 Sandwich Breads 838 Sandwich Spreads 838 Sandwich Fillings 839

HOT AND COLD SANDWICHES 840 Hot Sandwiches 841 Cold Sandwiches 842

MISE EN PLACE FOR ASSEMBLING SANDWICHES MADE TO ORDER 844 PRESENTING AND GARNISHING SANDWICHES 845

28 Charcuterie _________________________________ 859 FORCEMEATS 860 EQUIPMENT FOR PREPARING FORCEMEATS 860 FORCEMEAT INGREDIENTS 861 Meats 861 Fats 861 Binders 861 Seasonings 862 Garnishes 862

PREPARING FORCEMEATS 863 Country-Style Forcemeats 863 Basic Forcemeats 865 Mousseline Forcemeats 867 Quenelles 869

USING FORCEMEATS TO PREPARE TERRINES, PÂTÉS AND GALENTINES 869 Aspic Jelly 869 Terrines 870 Pâtés en Croûte 873 Galantines 875

USING FORCEMEATS TO PREPARE SAUSAGES 877 Sausage Meats 877 Sausage Casings 877 Equipment for Making Sausages 878

SALT CURING, BRINING AND SMOKING MEATS AND FISH 880 Salt Curing 880 Brining 880 Smoking 880

CURED PORK AND BEEF PRODUCTS 883

29 Hors d’Oeuvre_____________________________ 893 COLD HORS D’OEUVRE 894 Canapés 894 Crudités 897 Dips 898 Caviar 899 Other Cold Hors d’Oeuvre 900

HOT HORS D’OEUVRE 900 Filled Pastry Shells 900 Skewers 900 Meatballs 901 Hors d’Oeuvre Wrapped in Cheese, Meat or Vegetables 902 Hors d’Oeuvre Wrapped in Dough 902 Other Hot Hors d’Oeuvre 905

ANTIPASTI, MEZZE, TAPAS AND ZAKUSKI 905

SERVING HORS D’OEUVRE 906 Passed Hors d’Oeuvre 906 Buffet Service 907 Buffet Platters 907

Baking 30 Principles of the Bakeshop____________ 923 BAKESHOP TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 924 BAKESHOP INGREDIENTS 925 Flours 925 Sugar and Sweeteners 929 Fats 933 Chemical Leavening Agents 934 Thickening Agents 935 Flavorings 936 Nuts 940

MEASURING INGREDIENTS IN THE BAKESHOP 943 Baker’s Percentage 944 Calculating Baker’s Percentage 945

MIXING METHODS 947 THE BAKING PROCESS 948 Gases Form 948 Gases Are Trapped 948 Starches Gelatinize 949 Proteins Coagulate 949 Fats Melt 949 Water Evaporates 949 Sugars Caramelize 949 Carryover Baking 949 Staling 949

31 Quick Breads _______________________________ 951 MIXING METHODS FOR QUICK BREADS 952 Biscuit Method 953 Muffin Method 955 Creaming Method 957

FRYING QUICK BREADS 959 QUALITIES OF QUICK BREADS 960

32 Yeast Breads________________________________ 969 YEAST 970 Types of Yeast 970 Substituting Yeasts 971 Natural Yeast Leaveners: Sourdough Starter 972

PRODUCTION STEPS FOR YEAST BREADS 974 Step 1: Scaling the Ingredients 974 Step 2: Mixing and Kneading the Dough 974 Step 3: Fermenting the Dough 975 Step 4: Punching Down the Dough 976 Step 5: Portioning the Dough 976 Step 6: Rounding the Portions 976 Step 7: Make-Up: Shaping the Portions 976 Step 8: Proofing the Products 978 Step 9: Baking the Products 978 Step 10: Cooling and Storing the Finished Products 979

ROLLED-IN DOUGHS 983 QUALITIES OF YEAST BREAD 985

CONTENT S

33 Pies, Pastries and Cookies __________ 1003 PIES AND TARTS 1004 Crusts 1004 Fillings 1011 Assembling Pies and Tarts 1017 Storing Pies and Tarts 1017

CLASSIC PASTRIES 1017 Puff Pastry 1017 Éclair Paste 1021 Meringue 1023

COOKIES 1025 Mixing Methods for Cookie Dough 1025 Make-Up Methods for Cookies 1026 Storing Cookies 1028

34 Cakes and Frostings ___________________ 1049 CAKE INGREDIENTS 1050 MIXING METHODS FOR CAKES 1051 High-Fat Cakes 1051 Whipped-Egg Cakes 1053

PANNING, BAKING AND COOLING CAKES 1060 Preparing Cake Pans 1060 Filling Cake Pans 1060 Baking Temperatures 1061 Altitude Adjustments for Baking 1061 Determining Doneness of Cakes 1062 Cooling Cakes 1062

FROSTINGS 1063 Buttercream 1064 Foam Frosting 1067 Fudge Frosting 1068 Fondant 1069 Glaze 1069 Royal Icing 1070 Ganache 1070

ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES 1072 Assembling Cakes 1073 Simple Decorating Techniques 1073 Piping Techniques 1074

STORING CAKES 1078

35 Custards, Creams, Frozen

Desserts and Dessert Sauces ____________ 1089 CUSTARDS 1090 Stirred Custards 1090 Baked Custards 1094 Soufflés 1097

CREAMS 1099 Crème Chantilly 1099 Bavarian Cream 1100 Chiffon 1101 Mousse 1102

FROZEN DESSERTS 1103

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Caramel Sauce 1108 Chocolate Syrup 1108

ASSEMBLING DESSERTS 1109

Presentation 36 Plate Presentation _____________________ 1119 PRESENTATION TECHNIQUES FOR FOODS 1120 Preparing Foods Properly 1120 Cutting Foods 1121 Molding Foods 1122

PRESENTATION TECHNIQUES FOR THE PLATE 1123 Choosing Plates 1123 Arranging Foods on Plates 1124 Decorating Plates 1128

PRESENTATION TECHNIQUES FOR BUFFETS 1131 Arranging Food on Serving Pieces 1131

SMALL PLATES 1132

37 Buffets ______________________________________ 1137 UNDERSTANDING BUFFETS 1138 Planning the Buffet 1138 Communicating the Plan 1140

DESIGNING BUFFETS 1141 Arranging the Tables 1142 Arranging Items on the Buffet Table 1144

PRESENTING AND MAINTAINING BUFFETS 1145 Controlling Costs 1145 Keeping Hot Foods Hot 1146 Keeping Cold Foods Cold 1147 Replenishing Foods 1147 Serving the Guests 1147

Appendix I _______________________________________1149 TOP CAUSES OF FOOD-BORNE ILLNESS 1149

Appendix II ______________________________________1150 MEASUREMENT AND CONVERSION CHARTS 1150

Appendix III

____________________________________1152

TYPICAL YIELD PERCENTAGES FOR COMMON PRODUCE ITEMS 1152

Glossary __________________________________________1153 Recipe Index ___________________________________ 1173

Ice Cream and Gelato 1104 Sorbet and Sherbet 1106 Still-Frozen Desserts 1106

Subject Index __________________________________ 1186

DESSERT SAUCES 1107

Credits ___________________________________________ 1205

Fruit Purées 1107

Recipes 3 Nutrition and Healthy Cooking Modified Beef Stroganoff (Low-Calorie, Low-Fat)

56

8 Dairy Products Crème Fraîche Herb Cheese Spread Ricotta Cheese Fromage Fort Classic Cheese Fondue

168 172 173 178 181

11 Stocks and Sauces White Stock Brown Stock Fish Stock Fish Fumet Vegetable Stock Court Bouillon Dashi Vegan Dashi Bèchamel Vegan Bèchamel Small Bèchamel Sauces Cheese Cream Sauce Mornay Nantua Soubise (Modern) Veloutè Small Fish Veloutè Sauces Bercy Cardinal Normandy Allemande Sauce Small Allemande Sauces Aurora Horseradish Mushroom Poulette Suprême Sauce Small Suprême Sauces Albufera Hungarian Ivory Espagnole (Brown Sauce) Demi-Glace Vegetable Jus Lié

230 232 233 234 235 235 237 237 245 245 245 245 245 246 246 246 247 247 247 247 247 248 248 248 248 248 248 248 249 249 250

Small Brown Sauces Bordelaise Chasseur (Hunter’s Sauce) Châteaubriand Chevreuil Madeira or Port Marchand de Vin Mushroom Pèrigueux Piquant Poivrade Robert Tomato Sauce Small Tomato Sauces Creole Spanish Milanaise Hollandaise Small Hollandaise Sauces Bèarnaise Choron Foyot Grimrod Maltaise Mousseline (Chantilly Sauce) Recipes for Compound Butters Basil Butter Herb Butter Chile Lime Butter Lobster or Crayfish Butter Maître d’Hôtel Butter Red Pepper Butter Shallot Butter Beurre Blanc Beurre Rouge Lemon-Dill Herb Butter Sauce Pico de Gallo (Tomato Salsa) Pebre (Chilean Salsa) Basil Pesto Sauce Walnut Pesto Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto Arugula and Pecan Pesto Red Pepper Coulis Carrot Juice Sauce Thyme-Scented Celery Essence Wild Mushroom Foam Basil Oil Shallot Curry Oil Rich Brown Vegetable Stock Hollandaise, Blender Method

250 251 251 251 251 251 251 251 251 251 251 252 253 253 253 254 254 255 255 255 255 255 256 256 256 256 256 256 256 257 257 257 257 260 260 261 261 261 261 262 263 Online 264 266 Online 269 269

Red-Wine Thyme Sauce Horseradish Cream Sauce Orange Gastrique Citrus Gastrique Orange Butter Sauce Duxelles Sauce Fresh Tomato Sauce for Pasta Fresh Uncooked Tomato Sauce for Pasta Mole Bolognese Sauce Citrus Beurre Blanc Beer Beurre Blanc Sauce Sorrel Sauce Barbecue Sauce Southeast Asian-Style Peanut Sauce Vegetarian Peanut Sauce Coconut Sauce Thai-Style Melon Salsa Avocado Salsa Tomatillo Salsa Verde Chermoula (Moroccan-Style Herb Sauce) Chimichurri Sauce Spanish-Style Romesco Sauce Mignonette Sauce Nuoc Cham (Vietnamese-Style Dipping Sauce) Persillade

Online Online 270 270 270 270 271 271 272 273 274 Online Online 274 275 275 275 Online Online 276 276 277 277 278 278 278

12 Soups Beef Broth Hearty Vegetable Beef Soup Beef Consommé Cream of Broccoli Soup Purée of Split Pea Soup Shrimp Bisque New England–Style Clam Chowder Vichyssoise (Cold Potato-Leek Soup) Fresh Peach and Yogurt Soup Chilled Melon Soup Gazpacho Chicken and Sausage Gumbo French Onion Soup Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls

282 284 286 288 290 292 293 294 Online Online 295 299 300 Online

Recipes printed in red are only available online through Pearson Kitchen Manager within MyLab Culinary. Visit myculinarylab.com for details.

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Tonkotsu Ramen Tonkotsu Ramen Broth Miso Soup Phô Bo (Hanoi-Style Beef and Noodle Soup) Javier’s Redfish Sopa Minestrone Posole Cream of Tomato Soup Cream of Wild Mushroom Soup Cheddar and Leek Soup Mulligatawny Soup Potato Chowder with Hot Smoked Salmon West African–Style Groundnut Soup Sausage, White Bean and Kale Soup Carrot Ginger Soup Callaloo with Crab Roasted Corn Chowder Vegan Roasted Corn Chowder Wild Mushroom and Veal Soup Artichoke Soup Harvest Lobster and Corn Chowder Borsch (Chilled Beet Soup) Chilled Cucumber and Yogurt Soup Chilled Cherry Soup Sopa de Ajo Blanco (Spanish-Style Cold Almond and Garlic Soup)

301 302 303 304 Online 305 306 307 Online 308 Online 309 310 311 312 Online 313 313 Online Online Online 314 315 Online 316

13 Principles of Meat Cookery Grilled Lamb Chops with Herb Butter Roast Prime Rib of Beef au Jus Pulled Pork Sandwiches Sautéed Veal Scallops with White Wine Lemon Sauce Veal Schnitzel (Breaded Veal Cutlets) New England Boiled Dinner Braised Brisket and Onions Brown Beef Stew Blanquette of Lamb Sous Vide Short Ribs

326 330 334 337 339 341 344 346 348 351

14 Beef Flat Iron Steak with Coffee and Cocoa Korean-Style Beef Bulgogi Marinated London Broil Châteaubriand Beef Wellington Home-Style Meatloaf

364 365 366 366 367 368

Italian-Style Country Meatballs Salisbury Steak Tournedos Rossini Minute Steak Dijonnaise Entrecôtes Bordelaise Steak au Poivre (Pepper Steak) Beef Fajitas Seared Beef Salad with Nuoc Cham, Greens and Herbs Braised Oxtails and Barley Stew Swiss Steak Braised Short Ribs of Beef Orange-Scented Braised Short Ribs of Beef Ginger Braised Short Ribs of Beef Boeuf à la Ficelle (Beef Poached on a String) Hungarian Goulash Beef Stroganoff Vaca Frita Beef Bourguignon Chili Con Carne Chili with Beans Venison Chili Vegan Chili Chili-Stuffed Baked Sweet Potatoes Chili-Stuffed Bread Bowl Texas Chili and Beans Carpaccio

368 Online Online 369 Online 370 371 372 373 374 375 375 375 Online 376 376 377 378 379 379 379 379 379 379 Online 380

15 Veal Wood-Grilled Veal Chops with Basil Butter Weisswurst with Braised Red Cabbage and Rösti Potatoes Roast Veal Loin Rosemary-Roasted Veal Chops Veal Kebabs Sautéed Veal Scallops with Calvados Veal Marsala Wild Mushroom Veal Marsala Veal Cordon Bleu Turkey or Chicken Cordon Bleu Veal Pojarski Sweetbreads Grenoble Braised Veal “Sloppy Joes” Sautéed Calves’ Liver with Onions Veal Marengo Osso Buco Stuffed Breast of Veal Veal Fricassee

393 393 Online Online Online 394 395 395 396 396 397 398 Online 399 400 401 Online 402

RECIPES

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Turkish-Style Spicy Lamb Kebabs Vegan Spicy Kebabs Shish Kebabs Broiled Lamb Kidneys Rack of Lamb with Mustard and Hazelnuts Rack of Lamb Persillé Rack of Lamb with Mint Pesto Roast Rack of Lamb with Mint Roast Leg of Lamb with Jalapeño Roast Loin of Colorado Lamb Honey Mustard Denver Ribs Stuffed Leg of Lamb Lamb and Feta Hand Pie Lamb Pie Appetizers Saffron and Spice Braised Lamb Shanks Irish Lamb Stew Winter Lamb Stew Lamb in Indian-Style Coconut Curry Sauce Goat in Indian-Style Coconut Curry Sauce Moroccan-Style Lamb Tagine with Preserved Lemon Moroccan-Style Preserved Lemons Lamb Navarin

412 412 413 Online

16 Lamb

414 414 415 Online Online Online 415 416 417 417 418 419 Online 420 420 421 421 422

17 Pork Carolina Barbecued Ribs Ale-Marinated Pork Pork Chimichurri Kebabs Roasted Fresh Ham Bourbon-Baked Ham Barbecued Spareribs Pork Loin with Prunes Roasted Pork Loin with Peanut Sauce Cumin-Roasted Pork Tenderloin Sautéed Pork Medallions with Red Pepper Escalope de Porc à la Normande (Pork Scallops with Apples) Pork Tenderloin au Poivre Mie Goreng (Indonesian Fried Noodles with Pork) Nataing (Cambodian-Style Red Pork) Cambodian-Style Red Vegetarian Stir-Fry Crispy Sweet and Sour Pork Pan-Fried Brined Pork Chops with Black Pepper Cream Gravy

433 433 434 435 Online 435 436 Online Online Online 437 Online Online 438 438 Online 439

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RECIPES

Tourtière (French CanadianStyle Pork Pie) Thai-Style Tea-Smoked Ribs Stuffed Pork Chops Choucroute Cassoulet Carnitas Tostada (Mexican-Style Pulled Pork and Corn Tortillas) Asian-Style Pork Belly Jambalaya Cajun Spice Mix Sous Vide Rosemary Garlic Pork Tenderloin

440 441 442 Online Online 443 444 445 445 446

18 Poultry White Wine Marinade Grilled Chicken Breast with Red Pepper Butter Grilled Marinated Chicken Breasts Roast Turkey with Chestnut Dressing and Giblet Gravy Poêlé of Chicken with Pearl Onions and Mushrooms Chicken Sauté with Onions, Garlic and Basil Pan-Fried Chicken with Pan Gravy Spicy Fried Chicken Tenders with Herb Buttermilk Dressing Poached Chicken Breast with Tarragon Sauce Chicken Fricassee Jamaican-Style Jerk Chicken Cuban-Style Mojo Chicken Chilli Barbecued Chicken Murgh Kebab (Chicken Kebab) Chicken Yakitori Roman-Style Free-Range Chicken Pan-Roasted Sonoma FreeRange Chicken Grilled Cornish Game Hens with Basil Butter Roast Cornish Game Hen with Wild Rice Stuffing Chicken Leg Stuffed with Mushrooms and Prosciutto Sous Vide Chicken Legs Stuffed with Mushrooms and Prosciutto Sautéed Chicken with Kentucky Bourbon Spiced Chicken Cutlets Chicken Kiev Chicken and Snow Peas in Black Bean Sauce

460 462 463 466 470 473 475 476 478 481 483 483 Online Online 484 Online Online 484 485 486 486 Online Online Online Online

Roast Chicken with Mashed Potatoes and Natural Pan Gravy Chicken Breast Sauté with Roasted Red Pepper Sauce Tandoori-Style Chicken Lemongrass Chicken Lettuce Wrap Bangkok-Style Deep-Fried Chicken Wings Asian-Style Chile Dipping Sauce Chicken and Mushroom Crêpes with Sauce Mornay Chicken Curry Thai-Style Green Curry with Chicken and Eggplant Coq au Vin Chicken Cacciatore Louisiana Chicken Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic Country Braised Chicken Braised Chicken with Apple Cider Chicken Stuffed with Spinach and Ricotta Cheese in Saffron Sauce Chicken Pot Pie Individual Chicken Pot Pies Turkey Pot Pie Roast Duckling Duck Confit Duck Confit with Dirty Rice Duck à l’Orange Kolanta Duck Salad Turkey Meatloaf Turkey Scallopine with Capers and Lemon Turkey Tonnato (Turkey in Tuna Sauce) Lavender and Spice-Crusted Duck Breast with Apricot Compote Sautéed Chicken Livers Spiced Ostrich Tenderloin Grilled Ostrich Tenderloin with Yams Squab Salad with Melon Sautéed Foie Gras Roast Goose with Cabbage and Apples Fried Frog Legs

487 Online 488 489 490 491 491 Online Online 492 Online Online Online Online Online

493 494 494 494 494 495 Online Online Online 496 496 Online 497 498 498 Online Online Online Online Online

19 Game Red Wine Marinade Marinated Loin of Venison Roasted

504 Online

Grilled Rosemary Quail Venison Medallions, Black Currant Sauce Venison Medallions Grand Veneur Achiote-Basted Rack of Venison Grilled Buffalo Steak Citrus and Juniper Elk Loin Braised Rabbit with Orecchiette Pasta Braised Rabbit with Chorizo Roast Pheasant with Cognac and Apples Pheasant Roasted with Cinnamon and Bacon Braised Antelope in Sour Cream Venison and Black Bean Chili Grilled Quail with Balsamic Honey Glaze

506 Online 506 Online Online Online 507 508 509 Online Online 510 Online

20 Fish and Shellfish Broiled Black Sea Bass with Herb Butter and Sautéed Leeks Baked Red Snapper Baked Tilapia Sautéed Halibut with Three-Color Peppers and Spanish Olives Pan-Fried Trout Deep-Fried Catfish Fillets with Tartar Sauce Steamed Salmon with Lemon and Olive Oil Red Snapper en Papillote Poached Salmon Fillet Fillets of Sole Bonne Femme Boiled Lobster Whole Roasted Red Snapper Cajun-Grilled Trout Arctic Char with Orange Beurre Blanc Nigiri Sushi Zushi (Sushi Rice) Roasted Monkfish with Bacon and Garlic Teriyaki Salmon Oven-Fried Pecan Catfish Tropical Oven-Fried Catfish Pistachio-Crusted Salmon Oven-Roasted Spiced Salmon Blue Crab Cakes Pan Seared Diver Scallops Cha Ca (Hanoi-Style Fish with Dill) Red Snapper Veracruz

543 Online 544 546 548 549 552 553 555 556 Online Online Online 558 560 561 562 563 563 563 Online Online 564 564 565 Online

Recipes printed in red are only available online through Pearson Kitchen Manager within MyLab Culinary. Visit myculinarylab.com for details.

RECIPES

Freshwater Shrimp Wrapped in Potato Pan Seared Diver Scallops with Beet Vinaigrette Macadamia Nut–Crusted Halibut Sesame Swordfish Seared Tuna with Jasmine Rice Pan-Seared Sea Bass with Beet Vinaigrette Pan-Fried Trout with Toasted Garlic Pan-Seared Diver Scallops with Squash Scallops and Shrimp Sambuca Seared Diver Scallop Miso-Glazed Broiled Black Cod Salmon Croquettes Whole Sizzling Catfish Poached Halibut with Chanterelles Chilled Poached Salmon Roulade Steamed Bass with Sansho Pepper Stuffed Striped Bass Cartoccio Escolar with Eggplant and Carrot Purées Lobster Thermador Paupiettes of Sole with Mousseline of Shrimp Braised Shark with Lemon Pesto Clams Casino Oysters Rockefeller Shrimp and Corn Sauté Shrimp with Olive Oil and Garlic Shrimp Curry with Mango Lobster à l’Américaine Goan-Style South Indian Fish Curry Bouillabaisse (Provençal Fish Stew) Rouille Jumbo Lump Blue Crab and Langoustine Cake Coconut Shrimp Fried Oysters with Rémoulade Sauce Fried Calamari with Lemon, Olive and Pepper Relish Soft-Shell Crab Po’Boy Sandwich Shrimp Poached in Orange Juice Grilled Soft-Shell Crabs Chilled Shellfish Platter Steamed Scallops with Ginger Maryland-Style Steamed Blue Crabs

Online Online Online Online Online Online Online Online Online Online 566 567 Online Online Online Online Online Online Online 568 Online 569 570 Online Online Online Online 571 572 572 Online 573 573 574 Online Online Online Online Online 574

Steamed Mussels with Leeks and Carrots 575 Portuguese-Style Steamed Mussels 575 Mussels in Curry and Cream Sauce Online Spicy Sausage, Mussel and Clam Stew Online Paella 576 Crawfish Étouffée 577 Soft-Poached Salmon with Root Vegetables and Pernod Beurre Blanc 578 Pickled Shrimp 580 Tuna Poke 581 Fin Fish Carpaccio with Lemon Thyme Vinaigrette 581 Norimaki Zushi 582

21 Eggs and Breakfast Shirred Eggs with Ham Quiche Lorraine Scrambled Eggs Shrimp and Avocado Omelet Asparagus Frittata with Goat Cheese and Parsley Radish Salad Poached Eggs Buttermilk Pancakes Blueberry Pancakes Apple-Pecan Pancakes Crêpes Cheese Blintz Savory Crêpes Savory Crêpes Florentine Crunchy Granola Southwestern Scrambled Eggs Greek-Style Scrambled Eggs Rolled Soufflé Shakshuka Eggs Fried Egg BLT Sandwich Eggs Benedict Poached Eggs Florentine Poached Eggs Norwegian Style Crabcake Eggs Benedict Garden Egg Benedict Southern-Style Eggs Benedict Avocado, Bacon and Red Rice Breakfast Salad Scotch Eggs Pytt i Panna (Swedish Hash) Corned Beef Hash Buckwheat Crêpes with Sausage Tortilla Española (Spanish Egg and Onion Omelet) Cheese Soufflé Waffles

588 589 590 591 593 596 598 598 598 599 599 599 599 601 Online Online Online 609 609 610 610 610 610 610 610 611 611 612 Online Online 613 614 614

Pecan Waffles Dutch Baby Pancake Cinnamon French Toast Baked Banana Praline French Toast Orange French Toast Oatmeal with Bananas and Almond Butter Breakfast Grits Cantonese-Style Congee Chicken or Pork Congee Frozen Cappuccino Chai Masala (Indian Spiced Tea with Milk)

xxvii 614 Online 615 615 Online 615 615 616 616 Online Online

22 Vegetables Grilled Vegetable Skewers Grilled Sliced Vegetables Baked Butternut Squash, Cumin Yogurt and Pumpkin Seeds Sautéed Mushrooms with Garlic and Thyme Stir-Fried Baby Bok Choy Stir-Fried Asparagus with Shiitake Fried Green Tomatoes with Shrimp and Creole Rémoulade Pan-Roasted Brussels Sprouts Beer-Battered Onion Rings Green Beans with Herbed Vinaigrette and Toasted Hazelnuts White Bean Salad Broccoli Amandine Braised Celery with Basil Gholpi (Afghan-Style Braised Cauliflower) Parsnip Purée Vegan Parsnip Purée Turnip or Sunchoke Purée Winter Squash Purée Summer Vegetables with Tarragon Aïoli Swiss Chard with Lemon and Pine Nuts Inlagda Rødbetor (SwedishStyle Pickled Beets) Curtido (Salvadorian Fermented Cabbage Relish) Grilled Portabella Mushrooms Grilled Baby Squash Garlic Timbales Broccoli or Cauliflower Timbales Mushroom and Manchego Timbales

651 651 652 653 654 Online

655 656 657

660 661 662 Online 665 666 666 Online 666 Online Online 668 670 672 Online 672 672 Online

xxviii

RECIPES

Vegetable Strudel Online Oven-Roasted Garlic 673 Fennel Gratin 673 Arizona Baked Corn Online Scalloped Eggplant Online Baked Beans 674 Boston-Style Baked Beans 674 Roasted Tomato, Onion and Goat Cheese Frittatini Online Mushroom and Leek Tart 674 Maple-Glazed Carrots 675 Duxelles 675 Creamed Corn with Basil Online Amish Corn Relish Online Ratatouille 676 Beet and Corn Salad 677 Peas with Fennel and Bacon Online Sautéed Broccoli Rabe 677 Pan-Fried Eggplant with Tomato Sauce 678 Stir-Fried Snow Peas Online Tempura Vegetables with Dipping Sauce 678 Panko Crust Tempura 679 Shrimp Tempura 679 Deep-Fried Carrots or Leeks for Garnishing 679 Glazed Pearl Onions 680 Mixed Bean Salad Online Butternut Squash with Black Beans Online Kabocha Squash Purée 681 Red Beet Purée 681 Carrot Ginger Purée 681 Collard Greens 682 Warm Zucchini, Red Pepper and Chickpea Salad 682 Red Beans and Rice with Andouille 683 Refried Beans 684 Spinach and Mushroom Crépe Online Fennel and Mushrooms à la Grecque Online Stuffed Cabbage Rolls Online Braised Red Cabbage with Apples 684 Braised Romaine Lettuce Online Braised Pumpkin Online Saag Paneer (Indian-Style Fresh Cheese with Greens) 685 Butter-Braised Honey Carrots 686 Artichokes Hollandaise Online Artichokes Stuffed with Italian Sausage Online

Giardiniera (Pickled Vegetables) Baechu-Kimchi (Korean Spicy Cabbage)

687 688

23 Potatoes, Grains and Pasta Baked Potatoes 694 Twice-Baked Potatoes 694 Gratin Dauphinois 695 Potato and Celery Root Gratin 695 Lyonnaise Potatoes 696 Deep-Fried Potatoes 698 Mashed Potatoes 700 Garlic Mashed Potatoes 700 Horseradish Mashed Potatoes 700 Mashed Sweet Potatoes or Rutabagas 700 Simmered Rice 708 Coconut Jasmine Rice 708 Risotto Milanese 709 Risotto with Radicchio (al Radicchio) 709 Risotto with Four Cheeses (al Quattro Formaggi) 709 Farro Risotto 709 Classic Rice Pilaf 710 Spanish Rice 711 Red Rice Pilaf 711 Bulgur Pilaf 711 Barley Pilaf 711 Thai-Style Fried Rice 712 Chinese-Style Fried Rice 712 Forbidden Fried Rice 712 Basic Pasta Dough 717 Garlic-Herb Pasta Dough 717 Spinach Pasta Dough 717 Tomato Pasta Dough 717 Chipotle Pasta Dough Online Château Potatoes 722 Parisienne Potatoes and Noisette Potatoes 722 Grilled Sweet Potatoes Online Roasted Fingerling Potatoes 723 Rosemary Roasted New Potatoes Online Scalloped Potatoes 723 Delmonico Potatoes Online Spicy Sweet Potato and Chestnut Gratin Online Thyme and Swiss Cheese Potatoes Online Potato-Ginger Purée Online Truffle Mashed Potatoes Online Herbed Mashed Potatoes Online German-Style Potato Salad 724 Potato Pancakes 724 Rösti Potatoes 725 Cheddar Cheese Rösti Potatoes 725 Vegan Rösti Potatoes 725 Duchesse Potatoes 726

Potato Croquettes Dauphine Potatoes Lorette Potatoes Potato Gnocchi Polenta Creamy Polenta with Wild Mushrooms Polenta Napoleon Grits and Cheddar Soufflé Jollof Rice Saffron Rice Pilau (Indian-Style Rice Pilaf) Red Rice Kimchi Fried Rice Brown Rice with Spiced Pecans Wild Rice and Cranberry Stuffing Hoppin’ John Baked Barley with Mushrooms Quinoa, Beet, Squash and Spinach Salad Orzo and Herb Salad Creamed Orzo and Leeks Mushroom Ravioli Fettuccine Alfredo Fettuccine Carbonara Fettuccine con Pesto Macaroni and Cheese Baked Macaroni and Cheese Macaroni and Cheese with Ham and Tomato Baked Ziti with Fresh Tomato Sauce Pepe Pasta with Shrimp Penne with Asparagus Cappelletti in Brodo Spinach and Ricotta Lasagne Vegetable Lasagna Pad Thai Soba Noodles with Chicken and Green Onions Chilled Chinese-Style Noodle Salad Spaetzle

726 727 727 728 729 730 Online 730 731 732 732 Online 732 Online 733 734 Online 734 Online Online Online 735 735 Online 736 736 736 736 Online Online Online Online 737 738 739 Online 740

24 Salads and Salad Dressings Basic Vinaigrette Dressing Dijon Vinaigrette Herb Vinaigrette Mayonnaise Caesar Dressing Mesclun Salad with Raspberry Vinaigrette Salad Niçoise

Recipes printed in red are only available online through Pearson Kitchen Manager within MyLab Culinary. Visit myculinarylab.com for details.

750 750 750 752 754 756 757

RECIPES

Chutney Chicken Salad Ribbon Salad of Zucchini, Carrots, Green Beans and Tomatoes Tomato and Asparagus Salad Molded Gazpacho Salad Molded Gazpacho Salad with Shrimp Caesar Salad for Tableside Service Caesar Salad in a Garlic Tuile Carrot Ginger Miso Dressing Raspberry Vinaigrette Fat-Free Vinaigrette Low-Fat Creamy Mustard Dressing Orange Soy Vinaigrette Blue Cheese Vinaigrette Poppy Seed Dressing Sauce Gribiche Thousand Island Dressing Herb Buttermilk Dressing Green Goddess Dressing Roquefort Dressing Low-Fat Blue Cheese Dressing Sun-Dried Tomato and Basil Aïoli Sherry Walnut Vinaigrette Tartar Sauce Aïoli (Garlic Mayonnaise) Black Garlic Aïoli Chipotle Aïoli Green Herb Aïoli Pesto Aïoli Wasabi Aïoli Za’atar Aïoli Vegan Mayonnaise Vegan Olive Oil Mayonnaise Rémoulade Sauce Creole Rémoulade Khira Raita (Cucumber-Yogurt Salad) Japanese-Style Cucumber Salad Carrot Salad Spinach and Edamame Salad Organic Microgreens and Spring Vegetables Salad of Sweet and Bitter Greens Gemischter Salat (German Mixed Salad) Wilted Spinach Salad with Warm Bacon Dressing Curly Endive, Apple and Gorgonzola Salad Winter White Salad Pink Grapefruit and Avocado Salad

759

760 Online 763 763 Online Online 764 764 765 Online Online 765 765 766 766 767 Online 767 768 Online 768 768 769 769 769 769 769 769 769 769 769 770 770 770 Online 771 771 Online Online Online 772 Online Online Online

Salad of Seared Ahi Tuna Online Vine-Ripened Tomato Salad Online Caprese Salad 772 Smoked Mushroom and Lentil Salad Online Cobb Salad 773 Greek Salad 773 Ginger Soy Chicken Salad Online New Potato Salad Online Potato Salad 774 Creamy Coleslaw 774 Egg Salad 775 Tuna Salad 775 Farro, White Bean and Cucumber Salad with Spiced Dressing 776 Couscous Salad 777 Tabouli 777 Raw Kale and Avocado Salad with Carrots, Raisins and Lemon Dressing 778 Panzanella (Italian Bread Salad) 779 Cranberry Orange Gelatin Salad 779 Garlic Croutons 780

25 Fruits Broiled Grapefruit Broiled Stone Fruit Warm Baked Peaches or Nectarines Savory Fruit Compote Apple Fritters Banana Fritters Pears Poached in Red Wine Dried Fruit Compote Figs with Berries and Honey Mousse Blackberry or Raspberry Preserves Peach Cobbler Preserves Mango, Pineapple and Strawberry Salad with Coconut Cream Pineapple Papaya Salsa Tropical Fruit Salad Watermelon and Cherry Salad with Fresh Mint Syrup Sweet Ricotta and Mascarpone Mousse Gratin of Fresh Berries Baked Apples Grilled Fruit Kebabs Cherry Confit Braised Rhubarb Berry Compote Applesauce Fresh Cranberry-Orange Relish

Online 803 803 804 805 805 806 807 Online 809 809 810 810 Online 811 Online Online 811 812 812 813 813 814 814

Jalapeño-Cranberry Relish Mango Chutney Candied Citrus Peel Compressed Fresh Watermelon

xxix 814 815 815 816

26 Plant-Based Cooking Vegan Stroganoff Cashew Cream Crispy Fried Tofu Southwestern Black Bean Soup Falafel Falafel Sandwich Grilled BBQ Portabella Mushroom Sandwich Veggie Wrap Cannellini Bean Relish Tofu and Walnut Tabouli Spiced Bean Curd Saffron Vegetable Risotto Mushroom Bolognese Polenta Vegetable Tart Couscous with Seven Vegetables Dal Bhat (Indian-Style Lentil Stew with Rice) Pan-Seared Tofu with Tomatoes, Capers and Olives Chia Bumbleberry Preserves Chia Pudding

825 827 827 828 828 829 Online Online Online 829 Online Online 830 831 832 833 834 835 836

27 Sandwiches Grilled Vegetable Sandwich Club Sandwich Fish Taco Grouper Sandwich Hamburger Bacon Blue Cheeseburger Mushroom Burger Blended Mushroom Burger Crabcake Burger Turkey Burger Grilled Red Snapper Burger Arugula, Capicola Ham and Provolone Panino Cubano (Cuban Grilled Ham and Pork Sandwich) Grilled Chicken, Avocado and Vegetable Wrap Grilled Cheese with Arugula Southwestern Grilled Cheese Sandwich Southwestern Grilled Chicken Wrap

847 848 848 Online 849 849 849 849 849 850 Online 851 851 852 Online Online Online

xxx

RECIPES

Philly Cheese Steak Sandwich Kentucky Hot Brown Sandwich Reuben Sandwich Roast Beef and Blue Cheese Sandwich Pan Bagnat (Provençal Tuna Sandwich) Sabich (Israeli-Style Vegetable Sandwich) Amba-Style Mango Sauce Monte Cristo Sandwich Po’ Boy Oyster Po’ Boy Muffuletta Sandwich Olive Salad Roasted Beet and Goat Cheese Pita Egg Salad and Smoked Salmon Sandwich Chicken, Pesto and Tomato Sandwich Whole-Wheat Calzone Saucisson Tartine Radish and Butter Tartine Grilled Asparagus Tartine

Online 852 853 Online 853 854 855 855 856 856 857 857 Online Online Online Online 858 858 858

28 Charcuterie Pâté Spice Country-Style Forcemeat Basic Forcemeat Mousseline Forcemeat Pâté Dough Spicy Italian Sausage Mild Italian Sausage Maple Sage Sausage Thai Basil and Ginger Sausage Hot Smoked Trout Hot Smoked Salmon Mayonnaise Chaud-Froid Basic Game Forcemeat Liver Terrine Pork Rillettes Smoked Duck and Foie Gras Galantine Rabbit Paté en Croûte Salmon and Sea Bass Terrine with Spinach and Basil Vegetable Terrine Vegetable Terrine in Brioche Seafood Boudin Roasted Red Pepper Mousse Broccoli Mousse Salmon Mousse

862 864 866 868 874 878 878 879 879 882 883 Online Online 886 887 Online Online 888 889 Online Online Online Online 889

Galantine of Turbot and Lobster Chopped Chicken Liver Breakfast Sausage Patties Tex-Mex Turkey Sausage Chorizo Lamb Sausage with Tricolor Bean Salad Smoked Kielbasa Gravlax

Online 890 890 Online 891 Online 891 892

Tuna Tartare Samosas (Deep-Fried Indian-Style Turnovers) Vegetarian Samosas Cha Gio (Deep-Fried VietnameseStyle Spring Rolls) Date and Chorizo Rumaki Arancini (Deep-Fried Rice Balls) Stuffed Cherry Tomato Bites

918 919 919 920 921 921 922

31 Quick Breads 29 Hors d’Oeuvre Hummus Lamb Satay Rabbit and Shiitake Skewers Swedish Meatballs Rumaki Spanakopita Stuffed Wontons with Apricot Sauce Apricot Sauce Buckwheat Blini Baked Wonton Crisps Chive Ginger Pancakes Curried Chicken Canapés Poached Sea Scallop Canapés Tostaditas of Gulf Crab Kalamata Olive and Asiago Crostini Tortilla Cups with Grilled Chicken Pico de Gallo Baba Ghanoush Tapenade Guacamole Pimento Cheese and Olive Crostini Clam Dip Spinach and Artichoke Dip Brandade de Morue (French-Style Salt Cod Spread) Sautéed Garlic Croutons Grilled Shrimp with Prosciutto Stuffed Figs with Taleggio and Orange Basil Glaze Tricolor Potato Canapés Stuffed Mushroom Caps Pork Belly Bao Buns Escargots in Garlic Butter Rosemary and Garlic Grilled Shrimp Pupusas Chèvre Tarts Seviche

898 900 Online 901 902 903 904 905 908 908 Online Online Online Online Online 909 910 910 911 911 Online 912 913 913 Online 914 Online 914 915 Online Online 916 917 918

Country Biscuits Blueberry Muffins Cranberry Orange Muffins Pecan Spice Muffins Cinnamon Sugar Muffins Chocolate Chip Walnut Muffins Whole Wheat, Flax and Seed Muffins Sour Cream Muffins Streusel Topping Hush Puppies (Deep-Fried Cornbread) Chocolate Cherry Scones Cinnamon Orange Scones Cream Scones Shortcakes Fresh Strawberry Shortcake Basic Corn Muffins Southern-Style Cornbread Southwest-Style Cornbread Morning Glory Muffins Basic Bran Muffins Pumpkin Muffins Lemon Poppy Seed Muffins Berry Brown Butter Coffee Cake Coconut Lime Loaf Zucchini Bread Blue Corn Muffin Lemon Tea Bread Sour Cream Coffeecake Popovers Onion Popovers Lavosh Flatbread Crackers

954 956 956 956 957 957 957 958 959 959 961 961 Online Online Online 962 962 962 962 963 Online 963 964 964 965 Online Online 966 967 967 968

32 Yeast Breads Simple Sourdough Starter Soft Yeast Dinner Rolls Deli-Style Rye Bread Parisian Croissants White Sandwich Bread Whole-Wheat Sandwich Bread

Recipes printed in red are only available online through Pearson Kitchen Manager within MyLab Culinary. Visit myculinarylab.com for details.

973 980 982 984 987 987

RECIPES

Cloverleaf Rolls Twisted Knot Rolls Potato Cheddar Cheese Bread Tender Potato Herb Rolls French or Italian Bread Pain de Campagne (French Country Loaf ) Whole-Wheat Bread San Francisco-Style Sourdough Bread Multigrain Sourdough Bread Breadsticks Cranberry Raisin Oatmeal Bread Focaccia (Roman Flatbread) Pizza Margherita Eggplant and Sun-Dried Tomato Pizza Swiss Chard and Ricotta Calzone Naan (Indian Flatbread) Garlic Naan Brioche Large Brioche à Tête Raisin Brioche Brioche for Sandwiches Savory Cheese and Herb Brioche Maritozzo (Roman- Style CreamFilled Brioche) Challah Italian Panettone Cinnamon Buns Pecan Sticky Buns Danish Pastries Cream Cheese Filling Apricot Filling Ricotta Filling Almond Paste Filling Almond Cream Filling Kugelhopf

987 987 Online Online 988 Online 988 989 Online Online 990 991 992 Online Online 993 993 994 995 995 Online 995 995 996 Online 997 997 998 1000 1001 1001 Online 1001 1002

Basic Pie Dough Sweet Dough Basic Cream Pie Chocolate Cream Pie Banana Cream Pie Coconut Cream Pie I Coconut Cream Pie II Apple-Cranberry Pie Apple-Rhubarb Pie Blueberry Pie Filling Sweet Cherry Pie Pumpkin Pie Puff Pastry Quick Puff Pastry

Éclair Paste (Pâte à Choux)

1022

34 Cakes and Frostings

Italian Meringue

1025

Shortbread Tart Dough (Pâte Sablée)

1029

Quiche Dough (Pâte Brisée)

1030

American Poundcake 1052 French-Style Fruitcake 1053 High-Ratio Yellow Cake Online Classic Genoise 1054 Chocolate Genoise 1054 Classic Spongecake 1056 Swiss Jelly Roll 1057 Chocolate Spongecake 1057 Matcha (Green Tea) Spongecake 1057 Victoria Spongecake 1057 Ladyfingers Online Chocolate Angel Food Cake 1058 Vanilla Angel Food Cake 1058 Lemon Angel Food Cake 1058 Orange Chiffon Cake 1059 Lemon Chiffon Cake 1059 Gluten-Free Orange Chiffon Cake 1059 Pan Coating Online Simple Buttercream 1064 Light Chocolate Buttercream 1065 Lemon Buttercream 1065 Strawberry or Raspberry Buttercream 1065 Chai Buttercream 1065 Peanut Butter Buttercream 1065 Italian Buttercream 1066 Chocolate Italian Buttercream 1066 Coffee Italian Buttercream 1066 Lemon Italian Buttercream Online French Mousseline Buttercream 1067 Chocolate Mousseline Buttercream 1067 Basic Fudge Frosting 1068 Cocoa Fudge Frosting 1068 Basic Sugar Glaze 1069 Royal Icing 1070 Chocolate Ganache 1071 Dark Chocolate Truffles 1072 Carrot Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting 1080 Cream Cheese Frosting 1080 Marble Cake 1081 Marble Cupcakes 1081 Strawberry Vanilla Butter Cake 1082 German Chocolate Cake 1083 Coconut Pecan Frosting 1083 Tuscan-Style Olive Oil Cake 1084 Swedish-Style Apple Cake Online Vanilla Raspberry Wedding Cake Online Sacher Torte 1085 Dark Chocolate Glaze 1085 Tres Leches Cake 1086 Flourless Chocolate Cake 1087 Bûche de Noël (Yule Log) Online Rio Torte Online Chocolate Caramel Maxine Torte Online

Lemon Meringue Pie

1030

Fresh Strawberry Pie

Online

Freeform Apple Pies Peach Crumb Pie Blackberry Crumble French Apple Tart Tarte Tatin

1032 1032 Online 1033

Fresh Berry Tart

1033

Rustic Vegetable Galettes

1034

Strawberry Napoleon

Online

Portuguese-Style Egg Tarts

1034

Palmiers Puff Pastry Batons Puff Pastry Cheese Sticks Chocolate Éclairs

1035 1035 1035 1036

Diplomat Cream and FruitFilled Éclairs

Online

Paris-Brest

Online

Baked Meringue Chocolate Délice

1037 Online

Baklava Pastries

1038

Apple Strudel

1039

Galactoboureko (Greek Custard Pie)

Online

Peach and Blueberry Napoleon

Online

Linzer Tart

Online

Chocolate Beignets

Online

Chocolate-Mint Crinkle Cookies

1040

Oatmeal Raisin Cookies

1041

Flourless Chocolate Chewies 1006 1007 1012 1012 1012 1012 1012 1013 1013 1014 1015 1016 1019 Online

1031 Online

Fyrstekake (NorwegianStyle Almond Cake)

Peanut Butter Sandies

33 Pies, Pastries and Cookies

xxxi

1041 Online

Chocolate Chip Cookies

1042

White Chocolate, Cranberry and Miso Cookies

1042

Orange Almond Biscotti

1043

Lemon or Lime Bars

1044

Linzer Cookies

Online

Spritz Cookies

1044

Gingerbread Cookies

1045

Sugar Cookies Decorative Cookie Icing Lacy Pecan Cookies

1046 1046 1047

Tulipe Cookies Madeleines

1048 Online

xxxii

RECIPES

Fudge Brownies Raspberry Swirl Brownies Chocolate Peanut Butter Brownies Applesauce Brownies Praline Squares German Chocolate Layered Brownies Banana Bars Chocolate Banana Bars

1088 1088 Online Online Online Online Online Online

35 Custards, Creams, Frozen

Desserts and Dessert Sauces

Vanilla Custard Sauce Chai Custard Sauce Chocolate Custard Sauce Coffee Custard Sauce Hazelnut Custard Sauce Ginger Custard Sauce Pistachio Custard Sauce Pastry Cream Chocolate Pastry Cream Coconut Pastry Cream Coffee Pastry Cream Mousseline Pastry Cream Champagne Sabayon Sabayon Mousseline Toffee Caramel Flan Baked Crème Brûlée Chocolate Soufflés Crème Chantilly (Chantilly Cream)

1092 1092 1092 1092 Online 1092 1092 1093 1093 1093 1093 1093 1094 1094 1095 1096 1098 1099

Stabilized Whipped Cream Chocolate Chantilly Bavarian Cream Charlotte Bavarian White Chocolate Hazelnut Bavarian Lime Chiffon Lemon Chiffon Orange Chiffon Classic Chocolate Mousse Ice Cream Base Chocolate Ice Cream Cappuccino Ice Cream Brandied Cherry Ice Cream Macha (Green Tea) Ice Cream Dulce de Leche Ice Cream Grapefruit Sorbet Lemon Sorbet Mango Sorbet Raspberry Sorbet Strawberry Sorbet Fruit Coulis Raspberry Sauce Caramel Sauce Dark Chocolate Syrup Crème Brûlée Passion Fruit Crème Brûlée Coffee Crème Brûlée Ginger Crème Brûlée Diplomat Cream Filling Crème Chiboust Passion Fruit Crème Chiboust

1099 1099 1100 1101 1101 1102 1102 1102 1103 1105 1105 1105 1105 1105 1105 1106 1106 1106 1106 Online 1107 Online 1108 1108 Online Online Online Online Online Online Online

Chocolate Pots de Crème New York Cheesecake Turtle Cheesecake Pistachio Citrus Cheesecake Bread Pudding with Bourbon Sauce Chocolate Bread Pudding Baked Rice Pudding Bourbon Sauce Cherry Clafouti Lemon Curd Lime Curd White Chocolate Frangelico Bavarian Longchamp Cheese Soufflé Hot Lemon Soufflé Chocolate Chiffon Pie Raspberry Mousse Cake Buttermilk Panna Cotta Caramel Buttermilk Panna Cotta Kheer (Indian-Style Rice Pudding) Tapioca Pudding Honey Ice Cream Coffee Granita Blood Orange Granita Lemon or Lime Granita Chocolate Hazelnut Marquise Butterscotch Sauce Ginger Caramel Sauce Chocolate Fudge Sauce

1111 1112 Online Online 1113 1113 1113 1113 1114 1114 1114 Online Online Online Online Online 1115 1116 1116 1116 Online Online 1117 1117 1117 Online 1118 Online 1118

Recipes printed in red are only available online through Pearson Kitchen Manager within MyLab Culinary. Visit myculinarylab.com for details.

Preface Learning to cook is much more than simply learning to follow a recipe. Consequently, On Cooking, Seventh Edition, is not a cookbook or a collection of recipes. It is a carefully designed text initially published 30 years ago and consistently designed and organized to teach you the fundamentals of the culinary arts and to prepare you for a rewarding career in the food service industry. The goal of On Cooking is to focus your attention on general procedures, highlighting fundamental principles and skills, whether it be for preparing a yeast bread or grilling a piece of fish. Both the how and why of cooking are discussed, emphasizing culinary principles first, not recipes. Only after the principles are introduced and explained are sample recipes offered. This new edition includes many more recipes drawn from various international cuisines. Professional cooking no longer leans solely on French culinary traditions. Chefs now turn to the traditions of Asia, Africa and elsewhere for inspiration and ingredients. On Cooking, Seventh Edition recognizes this evolution and includes many recipes created in the style of popular dishes found throughout the world. The content is extensively illustrated with photographs and line drawings to help you identify foods and equipment. Most recipes include photographs of the finished dish ready for service and many procedures are illustrated with step-by-step photographs. Tables and bulleted lists present information in a concise format to enhance your understanding of concepts. To provide you with a sense of the rich traditions of cookery, informative sidebars on food history, chef biographies and other topics are located throughout the book. Sidebars that relate to flavors and flavorings also appear throughout the material to enhance your understanding of ingredients and possible variations. Safety Alerts are shown in red, to remind you of conditions or situations that might pose a danger to you or to diners. Electronic recipe management software accompanying this text provides access to recipes and the ability to scale, convert and price them. We wish you much success in your future career and hope that this text will continue to inform and inspire you long after graduation.

A NOTE ON RECIPES Recipes are important and useful as a means of standardizing food preparation and recording information. In On Cooking, Seventh Edition, recipes are designed primarily to reinforce and explain techniques and procedures presented in the text. Many recipe yields are intentionally low to be less intimidating to beginning cooks and more useful in small schools and kitchens. All ingredients are listed in both U.S. and metric measurements. The metric equivalents are rounded off to even, easily measured amounts. You should consider the ingredient lists as separate recipes or formulas; do not measure some ingredients according to the metric amounts and other ingredients according to the U.S. amounts or the proportions will not be accurate and the intended result will not be achieved. Throughout this book, unless otherwise noted: ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪

mirepoix refers to a preparation of 2 parts onion, 1 part celery and 1 part carrot by weight pepper refers to ground black pepper, preferably freshly ground butter refers to whole unsalted butter milk refers to whole or reduced fat (not nonfat) milk egg refers to whole large eggs yogurt refers to whole plain (unsweetened) yogurt TT means “to taste” xxxiii

xxxiv

PREFACE

Detailed procedures for standard techniques are presented in the text and generally are not repeated in each recipe (e.g., in a recipe, the instruction will be simply “deglaze the pan” or “monté au beurre”). Notes and variations appear at the end of selected recipes. These notes indicate ingredient substitutions for cost saving or to accommodate a plant-based diet. Variations illustrate how one set of techniques or procedures can be used to prepare different dishes with only minor modifications. A mise en place feature is included for recipes that appear in the front sections of each recipe chapter. Ingredients that require preparation before the recipe is begun are listed in the margin under the Mise en Place heading. Consult this brief checklist after you read the recipe but before you begin to cook. Some recipes also include headnotes that describe the cultural or historical background of a dish or the unique techniques used in its preparation. This short text will enhance your understanding of a cuisine or cooking technique. No matter how detailed the written recipe, however, we assume that you are acquiring certain knowledge, skills and judgment. It becomes a judgment call to know, for example, when a loaf of bread or a fish fillet is properly cooked. Ovens and cookware may vary in efficiency. For these reasons, recipes and formulas describe alternate tests for doneness, requiring you to use your developing skills to determine when a dish is properly cooked. You should also rely upon the knowledge and skills of your instructor for guidance. Although some skills and an understanding of theory can be acquired through reading and study, no book can substitute for repeated hands-on preparation and observation. A registered dietician analyzed all the recipes in this book using nutritional analysis software that incorporates data from the U.S. Department of Agriculture, research laboratories and food manufacturers. The nutrient information provided here should be used only as a reference, however. A margin of error of approximately 20 percent can be expected because of natural variations in ingredients. Preparation techniques and serving sizes may also significantly alter the values of many nutrients. For the nutritional analysis, if a recipe offers a choice of ingredients, the first-mentioned ingredient is the one used. Ingredients listed as “to taste” (TT) and “as needed” are omitted from the analysis. It is assumed that corn oil and whole milk are used when a recipe calls for “vegetable oil” and “milk,” respectively. In cases of a range of ingredient quantities or numbers of servings, the average is used.

Good Choice

Throughout this book various recipes are marked with a Good Choice icon. This symbol identifies dishes that are particularly low in calories, fat, saturated fat or sodium; they may also be a good source of vitamins, protein, fiber or calcium.

Vegetarian

Recipes marked as vegetarian do not contain meat, fish, shellfish or poultry, but may contain dairy products and/or eggs. (This symbol is not used in the baked goods recipes in Chapters 31–35, however, because none of them contains meat, fish, shellfish or poultry.)

Vegan

Vegan recipes do not contain any animal products. Vegetarian and vegan dishes are not necessarily low in calories, fat or sodium; nor are they necessarily good sources of vitamins, protein, fiber or calcium.

Acknowledgments This book would not have been possible without the assistance and support of many people. Special thanks to our photographers, Richard Embery, Debby Wolvos and Debby’s assistants, Jenelle Bonifield and Holly Harmon, for their talent, professionalism and commitment to quality. The nutritional analysis for this edition was prepared by Mindy Hermann, MS, RD, whose thoroughness and prompt replies were greatly appreciated. Alan thanks his wife, Chantal, for her help, patience and understanding since work began on this textbook some 30 years ago. He thanks his sons, Logan and Grayson, now teenagers, for keeping the noise down while dad is in the office punching away at the keyboard. He is blessed to work with his good friend Priscilla, the most knowledgeable, organized, and productive person he has ever worked with. He thanks Sarah for working so hard on the project from wherever she happens to be in the world. Her knowledge of food and attention to detail has improved the text with each edition. Alan also acknowledges his many friends and coworkers who have been invaluable to the success of the text: Rebekah Flores, Gregory Reynolds, Michelle Jacob, Herb Fair, Keila Pizarro, Tony May, Mark Bookhamer, Rebekah Frate, Isabel Campos, Daniel Pena, Christopher Coffman, Juan Soto, John Navaro, Estella Morales, Maria Higareda, Jimmy Curry, Erin O’Brian, Stephanie Bookhamer, Devin Blunt, Jorg Lehrmann and Kevin Henderson. Sarah sends many thanks to Alan Hause and Priscilla Martel for their hard work and consistent participation over the years. She especially thanks Alan for always producing gorgeous and delicious food, and Priscilla for being the leader who pulls everything together with her breadth of knowledge and attention to detail. Finally Sarah sends her gratitude to the many wonderful students she has worked with over the years, both in Korea and in the United States; they are the real reason that books such as this are written. Priscilla would like to acknowledge the contributions of the many fine chefs and instructors who have supported this book through many revisions. Her thanks go to Chef Chris Douglass, Lisa Falso-Doherty, Chef Christine Merlo and the staff at Boston University Metropolitan College for assisting in the production of videos to accompany this edition. And to Katie Toulmin and the team at Cabin 3 Media for their work. She would like to sincerely thank Sarah and Skip for their commitment to providing fundamental culinary knowledge to our student readers in a clear and inspiring manner. They are models of teamwork and professionalism for which she is always grateful. The authors wish to thank Susan Jardina and Jar Céramistes and Peddlers Sons Produce for their generous donations of equipment and supplies. We also wish to thank everyone involved in this project at Pearson Education, including Derril Trakalo, product manager; Shruti Joshi, content production manager; Mark Marsden, product marketing manager; and Shannon LeMay-Finn, development editor. We are grateful for the outstanding quality of the responses to our instructor review questionnaires and surveys. Responses to these surveys played a critical role in the preparation of this seventh edition of On Cooking. The following reviewers provided many excellent suggestions and ideas for the seventh edition: Paul Ashman, Gulf Coast State College Robert Barton, Milwaukee Area Tech College Kerry Beadle, SUNY Morrisville Frank Benowitz, Mercer County Community College Hatley Bright, Rappahannock Community College Kevin Cabrera, San Joaquin Delta College Ann Carpenter-Szalay, Stark State College Jill Cassady, Western Illinois University

June Clarke, Delaware State University Catherine Coleman, Durham Technical Community College Mark Cosgrove, County College of Morris Chris Currier, Sandhills Community College Mark D’Alessandro, Florida International University Stacy Damaso, Los Angeles Trade Technical College Shelley Doonan, Mt. San Antonio College Michael Drazsnzak, Cuesta College xxxv

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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Andrew Eith, Kent State University Thomas England, Ivy Tech Community College–Central Indiana Carol Erwin, Wayne State College Susan Feigenbaum, Los Angeles Trade Technical College Alan Finkelstein, San Jose State University Ann Flora, Maysville Community & Technical College KJ Francom, Utah Valley University Stephen Gagnon, Hillsborough Community College Margaret Galvin, Cincinnati State Technical and Community College Doug Ganhs, Oakland Community College Michele Gaw, Cuyahoga Community College Peter Gilmore, Delaware County Community College Daniel Guerra, El Paso Community College Katie Halfacre, University of Mississippi Robert Hall, University of Arkansas Pulaski Technical College Robert Hansen, Bob Jones University Brandon Harpster, Southeast Community College David Hawey, Durham College Sandra Johnston, McHenry County College Ara Karakashian, Hudson County Community College Christian Kefauver, West Virginia Northern Community College Steven Leake, Southwest Tennessee Community College

Dean Louie, University of Hawai‘i Maui College Ron Lovell, Allan Hancock College Robert Lukasik, Erie Community College North Campus Anthony Lupino, SUNY Morrisville David Miller, Bob Jones University Michael Otto, Cape Cod Community College Anthony Redendo, Phoenix College Betty Redwood-Brown, Durham Technical Community College Bryan Richard, Ogeechee Technical College Kyle Richardson, Joliet Junior College Pamela Roberts, Central Piedmont Community College Adrienne Rogers, University of Arkansas–Pulaski Technical College Kimberly Rother, Elgin Community College Deborah Schneider, Onondaga Community College Wayne Smith, Western Colorado Community College Claire Stewart, New York City College of Technology Marylou Tate, Nashville State Community College James M. Taylor, SUNY Onondaga Community College Emily Wallace, South Puget Sound Community College Aaron B. Ware, Oklahoma State University Institute of Technology Michele Wehrle, Community College of Allegheny County Kathryn Wolfer, Ferris State University

The authors also wish to thank the many reviewers of previous editions who helped shape the evolution of On Cooking over the span of more than 30 years. G. Allen Akmon, Sullivan University Karin Allen, Utah State University Chris Argento, Nassau Community College Mike Artlip, Kendall College Victor Bagan, Odessa College Jeff Bane, Clearly University Todd Barrios, Stephen F. Austin State University David Barrish, Reynolds Community College Leslie Bartosh, Alvin Community College Bea Beasley, Santa Rosa Junior College Erica Beirman, Iowa State University Carol Bennett, Central Arizona College Frank Benowitz, Mercer County Community College Paul John Bernhardt, Diablo Valley College Ben Black, Culinary Institute of Charleston at Trident Technical College LeRoy Blanchard, Los Angeles Trade Technical College Patricia Bowman, Johnson & Wales University Eric Breckoff, Piedmont Virginia Community College Scott Bright, Quest Food Management Services Tracey Brigman, University of Georgia Stephen Burgeson, Buffalo State College Angelo Camillo, Woodbury University Kristina Campbell, Columbus Technical College Mary Ann Campbell, Trenholm State Community College Michael Carmel, Trident Technical College Paul Carrier, Milwaukee Area Technical College Melinda Casady, Portland’s Culinary Workshop

Dorothy Chen-Maynard, California State University, San Bernardino Susan Ciriello, Art Institute of Washington Jeffrey Coker, Salt Lake Community College Jerry Comar, Johnson & Wales University Matt Cooper, Mott Community College Anne Corr, Cook Like a Chef Camp Sylvia Crixell, Texas State University, San Marcos Chris Crosthwaite, Lane Community College Cathy Cunningham, Tennessee Technological University Chris Currier, Sandhills Community College Jacqueline deChabert-Rios, East Carolina University Richard Donnelly, East Stroudsburg University Michael Downey, St. Louis Community College at Forest Park Charles Drabkin, Edmonds Community College Jodi Lee Duryea, University of North Texas Tuesday Eastlack, Northwest Arkansas Community College Sari Edelstein, Simmons College Kimberly Emery, SUNY-Plattsburgh Thom England, Ivy Tech Community College Naomi Everett, University of Alaska Melanie Ewalt, Kirkwood Community College Richard Exley, Scottsdale Culinary Institute Stephen Fernald, Lake Tahoe Community College Edward Fernandez, Kapiolani Community College Doug Flick, Johnson County Community College Deborah Foster, Ball State University Thomas Gaddis, Pellissippi State Community College

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Wendy Gordon, SUNY Rockland Community College Debra Gourley, Ivy Tech Community College Clarke Griffin, St. Louis Community College Lauri Griffin, Ivy Tech Community College Kristen Grissom, Daytona State College Marian Grubor, West Virginia Northern Community College Jeff Hamblin, Brigham Young University-Idaho Lois Hand, Bob Jones University Brandon Harpster, Southeast Community College Joe Harrold, Florida State College at Jacksonville Kathleen Hassett, Horry-Georgetown Technical College Ed Hennessy, Delaware Technical and Community College Michael Herbert, Northern Virginia Community College Travis Herr, Pensacola State College Vern Hickman, Renaissance Culinary Center Martina Hilldorfer, Kauai Community College Carol Himes, Pueblo Community College David Hoffman, Mohawk Valley Community College David Horsfield, Kirkwood Community College Thomas Hosley, Carteret Community College John Hudoc, Robert Morris College Robert Hudson, Pikes Peak Community College Robert “Miles” Huff, Culinary Institute of Charleston at Trident Technical College Sharon Hunt, Fort Valley State University Barry Infuso, Pima Community College Bruce Johnson, Salt Lake City Community College Dorothy Johnston, Erie Community College Melodie Jordan, Keystone College Wendy Jordan, Rosemary’s Restaurant Thomas Kaltenecker, McHenry County College Deborah Karasek, Bob Jones University Debbie Kern, Delgado Community College Mary Ann Kiernan, Syracuse University Linda Kinney, University of Massachusetts Kathy Knight, University of Mississippi Chris Koch, Cooking or Whatever Christopher Koch, Drexel University Cindy Komarinski, Westmoreland County Community College Julie Hosman Kulm, Boise State University Jackson Lamb, Metropolitan State University of Denver Claude Lambertz, University of Nevada-Las Vegas Steve Lammers, Olympic College Barbara Lang, Cornell University College of Agriculture and Life Sciences Heinz Lauer, Culinaria Cuisine Joseph LaVilla, San Francisco State University Julie Lee, Western Kentucky University Peter Lehmuller, Johnson & Wales University Warren Leigh, Holyoke Community College Larry Lewis, San Diego Culinary Institute Dean Louie, University of Hawaii Maui College Beth Lulinski, Northern Illinois University George Macht, College of DuPage Sylvia H. Marple, University of New Hampshire Nicole Martinelli, Keiser University

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Dean Massey, Clover Park Technical College Lawrence Matson, The Art Institute of Dallas Mark Mattern, M & M Enterprises, Inc. James McGuiness, Keiser University Paula McKeehan, Tarleton State University Fiona McKenzie, Sandhills Community College Ken Mertes, Robert Morris College Brenden Mesch, The Art Institute of San Antonio Deborah Miller, Keiser University Maria Montemagni, College of the Sequoias Judy Myhand, Louisiana State University Andrea Nickels, Robert Morris College Adrienne O’Brien, Luna Community College Darla O’Dwyer, Stephen F. Austin State University Lisa O’Neill, East Central Community College Erich Ogle, Hinds Community College Charlie Olawsky, Grand Rapids Community College Shelly Owens, Metropolitan State College of Denver Clarence Pan, Daytona State College Joel Papcun, Great Lakes Culinary Institute Patrick Parmentier, L’Ecole Culinaire, Kansas City Jayne Pearson, Manchester Community College Donna Pease, Technical College of the Lowcountry Sean M. Perrodin, San Jacinto College-North Campus Ellen Piazza, Saint Louis Community College Christine Piccin, Santa Rosa Junior College Tony Pisacano, Ogeechee Technical College Toussaint Potter, AT&T Joan E. Quinn, Northern Illinois University Charles Robertson, Illinois Central College Colin Roche, Johnson & Wales University Linda Rosner, Lexington College Charles Rossi, Atira Hotels Scott Rudolph, California State Polytechnic University-Pomona Carl Sandberg, Gwinnett Technical College Janet Saros, Montgomery College Craig Schmantowsky, Lynn University Jules Schmitz, Cascade Culinary Institute David Schneider, Indian River State College Bridget Schwartz, George Washington University Janet Shaffer, Lake Washington Technical College Jeffrey Sheldon, Midwest Culinary Institute at Cincinnati State Gregg Shiosaki, Seattle Central Community College Cherie Simpson, The University of Alabama Curtis Smith, Spokane Community College Wayne Smith, Western Colorado Community College Rupert Spies, Rupert Spies Consulting Brian Stahlsmith, Mercyhurst College Wendy Stocks, Purdue University-Calumet Linda Sullivan, Indiana University of Pennsylvania James Swenson, MilitaryChefs.com Jim Switzenberg, Harrisburg Area Community College Janis Taylor, Freed-Hardeman University Klaus Tenbergen, Columbia College Katie Thomas, Blackhawk Technical College

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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

George Thompson, Oregon Culinary Institute Peter Tobin, Inland Northwest Culinary Academy at Spokane Community College Arthur Tolve, Bergen Community College James Trebbien, The Institute for the Culinary Arts at Metropolitan Community College Mary G. Trometter, Pennsylvania College of Technology Armando Trujillo, Northern Arizona University Anna Turner, Bob Jones University Katrina Warner, Tarrant County College Diana Watson-Maile, East Central University

Boo Wells, Jefferson Community College Seunghee Wie, California State University-Sacramento Brenda Wilkening, Estrella Mountain Community College Lorna Williams, Bob Jones University Josef Wollinger, Blackhawk Technical College Chris Woodruff, Lake Michigan College Louis Woods, Anne Arundel Community College Mark Wright, Erie Community College-State University of New York Kimberly Youkstetter, Worcester Technical High School Charles Ziccardi, Drexel University

Professionalism

1

1

After studying this chapter, you will be able to: 1.1 name key historical figures responsible for

the development of the restaurant industry and describe the contributions of each

1.2 list and describe characteristics of modern

food service operations

1.3 explain the organization of classic and

modern kitchens

1.4 identify the attributes a student needs to

become a successful culinary professional

1.5 describe the importance of professional

ethics for chefs and list specific behaviors that all culinary professionals should follow

1.6 describe some of the culinary careers

L

ike any fine art, great cookery requires taste and creativity, an appreciation of beauty and a mastery of technique. like the sciences, successful cookery demands knowledge and an understanding of basic principles, and like any successful leader, today’s professional chef must exercise sound judgment and be committed to achieving excellence in all endeavors. This book describes foods and cooking equipment, explains culinary principles and

cooking techniques and provides recipes using these principles and techniques. no book, however, can provide taste, creativity, commitment and judgment. for these, chefs and other culinary professionals must rely on themselves. This chapter explores the rich history of the restaurant industry in the West and the individuals who influenced the development of the profession. it also outlines the attributes of the professional chef. as you begin your culinary studies, we hope that you find inspiration in the history of the Western food service industry as you learn about the qualities that will guide you in your chosen career.

today’s student may pursue

HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT OF THE RESTAURANT INDUSTRY cookery the art, practice or work of cooking cooking (1) the transfer of energy from a heat source to a food; this energy alters the food’s molecular structure, changing its texture, flavor, aroma and appearance; (2) the preparation of food for consumption professional cooking a system of cooking based on a knowledge of and appreciation for ingredients and procedures

Cooks have produced food in quantity for as long as people have eaten together. For millennia, chefs, whether they be Asian, Native American, Aboriginal, European or African, have catered to the often elaborate dining needs of the wealthy and powerful; and for centuries, vendors in China, Europe and elsewhere have sold foods to the public that they prepared themselves or bought from others. But in the West, the history of the professional chef is of relatively recent origin. Its cast is mostly French, and it is intertwined with the history of restaurants—for only with the development of restaurants in Europe and North America during the late 18th and early 19th centuries were chefs expected to produce, efficiently and economically, different dishes at different times for different diners.

The 18th Century—The First Restaurants The word restaurant is derived from the French word restaurer (“to restore”). Since the 16th century, the word restorative had been used to describe rich and highly flavored soups or stews capable of restoring lost strength. Restoratives, like all other cooked foods offered and purchased outside the home during this period of history, were made by guild members. Each guild had a monopoly on preparing a category of food items. For example, during the reign of Henri IV of France (r. 1589–1610), there were separate guilds for rôtisseurs (who cooked the main cuts of meat), pâtissiers (who cooked poultry, pies and tarts), vinaigriers (who made sauces and some stews, including some restoratives) and traiteurs (who made meat stews). The French claim that the first modern restaurant opened one day in 1765 when a Parisian tavern keeper, a Monsieur Boulanger, hung a sign advertising the sale of his special restorative, a dish of sheep feet in white sauce. Boulanger’s establishment differed from the inns and taverns that had existed throughout Europe for centuries. These inns and taverns served foods prepared (usually off premises) by the appropriate guild. The food offered by the inn or tavern was incidental to the establishment’s primary function: providing sleeping accommodations or drink. Customers were served the daily dish family style and ate at communal tables. Boulanger’s contribution to the food service industry was serving a variety of foods prepared on premises to customers whose primary interest was dining. Among other restaurants that opened in Paris during the succeeding decades, the Grande Taverne de Londres is credited with advancing the development of the modern 2

Professionalism

restaurant by offering a menu listing available dishes during fixed hours. (The date of its opening is debated, either 1782 or 1786.) Its owner, Antoine Beauvilliers (1754–1817), was the former steward (chief of the household staff) to the Comte de Provence, later King Louis XVIII of France. Beauvilliers’s impeccably trained wait staff served patrons at small, individual tables in an elegant setting. The French Revolution (1789–1799) had a significant effect on the budding restaurant industry. Along with the aristocracy, the revolution generally abolished guilds and their monopolies. The revolution also allowed the public access to the skills and creativity of the well-trained, sophisticated chefs who previously had worked exclusively in the aristocracy’s private kitchens. Although many of the aristocracy’s chefs either left the country or lost their jobs (and some their heads), a few opened restaurants catering to the growing urbanized middle class.

The Early 19th Century—Carême and Grande Cuisine As the 19th century progressed, more restaurants opened, serving a greater selection of items and catering to a wider clientele. By midcentury, several large, grand restaurants in Paris were serving elaborate meals, reminiscent of the grande cuisine (also known as haute cuisine) of the aristocracy. Grande cuisine, which arguably reached its peak of perfection in the hands of Antonin Carême, was characterized by meals consisting of dozens of courses of elaborately and intricately prepared, presented, garnished and sauced foods. Other restaurateurs blended the techniques and styles of grande cuisine with the simpler foods and tastes of the middle class (cuisine bourgeoise) to create a new

grande cuisine the rich, intricate and elaborate cuisine of the 18th- and 19th-century french aristocracy and upper classes; it was based on the rational identification, development and adoption of strict culinary principles; by emphasizing the how and why of cooking, grande cuisine was the first to distinguish itself from regional cuisines, which tend to emphasize the tradition of cooking restaurateur a person who owns or operates an establishment serving food, such as a restaurant

Marie-Antoine (Antonin) Carême (1783–1833) antonin Carême, known as the “cook of kings and the king of cooks,” was an acknowledged master of french grande cuisine. abandoned on the streets of Paris as a child, he worked his way from cook’s helper in a working-class restaurant to become one of the most prestigious chefs of his (or, arguably, any other) time. During his career, he was chef to the famous french diplomat and gourmand Prince de Talleyrand, the Prince regent of england (who became King George iV), Tsar alexander i of russia and Baron de rothschild, among others. Carême’s stated goal was to achieve lightness, grace, order and perspicuity in the preparation and presentation of food. as a pâtissier, he designed and prepared elaborate and elegant pastry and confectionery creations, many of which were based on architectural designs. (He wrote that “the fine arts are five in number, namely: painting, sculpture, poetry, music, architecture—the main branch of which is confectionery.”) as a showman, he garnished his dishes with ornamental hâtelets (skewers) threaded with colorful ingredients, such as crayfish and intricately carved vegetables, and presented his creations on elaborate socles (bases). as a saucier, he standardized the use of the flour and butter mixture called roux as a thickening agent, perfected

a poultry illustration from Carême showing hâtelets (skewers) used as a garnish.

recipes and devised a system for classifying sauces. as a garde-manger, Carême popularized cold cuisine, emphasizing molds and aspic dishes. as a culinary professional, he designed kitchen tools, equipment and uniforms. as an author, Carême wrote and illustrated important texts on the culinary arts, including Le Maitre d’hotel français (c. 1822), describing the hundreds of dishes he personally created and cooked in the capitals of europe; Le Pâtissier royal parisien (c. 1825), containing fanciful designs for les pièces montées, the great decorative centerpieces that were the crowning glory of grand dinners; and his five-volume masterpiece on the state of his profession, L’Art de la cuisine française au XIXe siècle (1833), the last two volumes of which were completed after his death by his associate, Plumerey. Carême’s writings almost single-handedly refined and summarized five hundred years of culinary evolution. But his treatises were not mere cookbooks. rather he analyzed cooking, old and new, emphasizing procedure and order and covering every aspect of the art known as grande cuisine. Carême died before age 50, burnt out, according to french poet and essayist laurent Tailhade, “by the flame of his genius and the coal of the spits.”

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CHaPTer one

gourmand a connoisseur of fine food and drink, often to excess gourmet a connoisseur of fine food and drink gastronomy the art and science of eating well gourmet foods foods of the highest quality, perfectly prepared and beautifully presented

cuisine simpler than grande cuisine but more complex than mere home cooking, which often centered around bread. Across the Atlantic, however, restaurant culture took on a very different look and purpose at this time, however. In the new United States, inexpensive dining facilities sprung up during the 19th century catering to the many working-class immigrants. People from Scandinavia, Ireland, Italy, China, Germany and elsewhere arrived on the promise of work, land and better futures. Many immigrants worked as transients along the new railroad lines, in western gold and silver mining, or as domestic servants or factory workers in urban centers. Street vendors and casual restaurants offering foods from home were welcomed by these immigrants, even though the dishes available generally lacked authentic ingredients. Gradually immigrant communities—such as the many Little Italy’s, Chinatowns and Greek villages—established food import systems still used today. Eventually these shops and cafes opened to anyone who found these previously unfamiliar foods appealing.

The Late 19th Century—Escoffier and Cuisine Classique

Delmonico’s restaurant kitchen in new York City in 1902.

Following the lead set by the French in both culinary style and the restaurant business, restaurants opened in the United States and throughout Europe during the 19th century. Charles Ranhofer (1836–1899) was the first internationally renowned chef of an American restaurant— Delmonico’s in New York City. In 1893, Ranhofer published his “Franco-American” encyclopedia of cooking, The Epicurean, which contained more than 3500 recipes. One of the finest restaurants outside France was the dining room at London’s Savoy Hotel, opened in 1898 under the directions of César Ritz (1850–1918) and Auguste Escoffier (1846–1935). There they created a restaurant that attracted royalty and aristocratic women, a group rarely seen dining in public at the time. Escoffier is generally credited with refining the grande cuisine of Carême to create cuisine classique or

Auguste Escoffier (1846–1935) auguste escoffier’s brilliant culinary career began at age 13 in his uncle’s restaurant and continued until his death at age 89. Called the “emperor of the world’s kitchens,” he is perhaps best known for defining french cuisine and dining during la Belle Époque (also referred to as the “Gay nineties”). Unlike antonin Carême, escoffier never worked in an aristocratic household. rather he exhibited his culinary skills in the dining rooms of the finest hotels in europe, including the Place Vendôme in Paris and the savoy and Carlton hotels in london. escoffier did much to enhance grande cuisine as defined by Carême. Crediting Carême with providing the foundation for great—that is, french—cooking, escoffier simplified the profusion of flavors, dishes and garnishes typifying Carême’s work. for example, Carême would present elaborate displays of as many as 150 dishes for guests at a private function. in contrast, escoffier would offer 11 dishes served tableside to each guest individually. escoffier also streamlined some of Carême’s overly elaborate and fussy procedures and classifications. for example, he reduced Carême’s elaborate system

Tournedos rossini, a dish created by escoffier, as it might be served today.

of classifying sauces into the five families of sauces still recognized today. escoffier sought simplicity and aimed for the perfect balance of a few superb ingredients. some consider his refinement of grande cuisine to have been so radical as to credit him with the development of a new cuisine referred to as cuisine classique (classic or classical cuisine). escoffier’s many writings include Le Livre des menus (1912), in which, discussing the principles of a well-planned meal, he analogizes a great dinner to a symphony with contrasting movements that should be appropriate to the occasion, the guests and the season, and Ma cuisine (1934), surveying cuisine bourgeoise. But his most important contribution is a culinary treatise intended for the professional chef titled Le Guide culinaire (1903). still in use today, it is an astounding collection of more than 5000 classic cuisine recipes and garnishes. in it, escoffier emphasizes the mastery of techniques, a thorough understanding of cooking principles and the appreciation of ingredients—attributes he considered to be the building blocks professional chefs should use to create great dishes.

Professionalism

classic cuisine. He invented such dishes as Suprêmes de soles à l’aurore (or “fillet of

sole at dawn”) in a blushing pink sauce and Pêche Melba (or “Peach Melba”), named after Australian singer Nellie Melba, a guest at the hotel. By doing so, he brought French cuisine into the 20th century.

The Mid-20th Century—Point and Nouvelle Cuisine The mid-20th century witnessed a trend toward lighter, more naturally flavored and more simply prepared foods. Fernand Point was a master practitioner of this movement. But Point’s goal of simplicity and refinement was carried to even greater heights by a generation of French chefs Point trained: principally Paul Bocuse, Jean and Pierre Troisgros, Alain Chapel, François Bise and Louis Outhier. They, along with Michel Guérard and Roger Vergé, were the pioneers of nouvelle cuisine in the early 1970s. Their contemporary, Gaston Lenôtre, modernized the classic pastries of grande cuisine, infusing them with the bright, fresh flavors of nouvelle cuisine. Nouvelle cuisine rejected overly rich, needlessly complicated dishes and placed the emphasis on healthful eating. The ingredients must be absolutely fresh and of the highest possible quality; the cooking methods should be simple and direct whenever possible. The accompaniments and garnishes must be light and contribute to an overall harmony; the completed plates must be elegantly designed and decorated. Following these guidelines, traditional cooking methods were applied to nontraditional ingredients, and ingredients were combined in new and previously unorthodox fashions.

The Late 20th and Early 21st Centuries—An American Culinary Revolution During the last 40–50 years, broad changes launched in the United States have affected the global culinary landscape. Two such trends are bold, international flavors and fresh food, simply prepared. The popularity of international cuisine within the United States is due, in large part, to an unlikely source: the Immigration and Nationality Act of 1965. Under its provisions, a large number of people from various Asian countries immigrated to the United States. They brought with them their rich culinary traditions and ignited America’s love affair with fiery hot cuisines. By the late 1970s many North Americans were no longer content with overly salty pseudo-Chinese dishes. They demanded authenticity and developed cravings for spicy dishes from the Szechuan and Hunan provinces of China, as well as Vietnam and Thailand. In the 1970s Mexican foods also became mainstream, and authentic regional Mexican dishes are now commonplace throughout the United States. Descendants of these and more recent immigrants are exploring the roots of their native cultures and cuisines, so the diverse ingredients and cooking of Brazil, Haiti, India, Korea, Nigeria, Somalia, Malaysia and Thailand, to name just a few countries, are readily available to the North American dining public. During this same time period, restaurateurs and chefs began “Americanizing” the principles of French nouvelle cuisine. When Alice Waters opened Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, in 1971, her goal was to serve fresh food, simply prepared. Rejecting the growing popularity of processed and packaged foods, Waters used fresh, seasonal and locally grown produce in simple preparations that preserved and emphasized the foods’ natural flavors. Chez Panisse and the many chefs who passed through its kitchen launched a new style of American cuisine that became known as California or New American cuisine. As the culinary movement launched by Waters’s philosophy spread across the United States, farmers and chefs began working together to make fresh, locally grown foods available, and producers and suppliers began developing domestic sources for some of the high-quality ingredients that were once available only from overseas. These chefs ushered in a period of bold experimentation. Chefs working in America began to combine ingredients and preparation methods from a variety of cuisines. Their work resulted in fusion cuisine. Fusion cuisine began with typical European techniques or dishes but added ingredients or preparation methods associated with one or more international or regional cuisines. A fillet of Norwegian salmon might be grilled over hickory wood and then served on a bed of Japanese soba noodles, for example, or a traditional

5

classic cuisine a late 19th- and early 20th-century refinement and simplification of french grande cuisine. Classic (or classical) cuisine relies on the thorough exploration of culinary principles and techniques and emphasizes the refined preparation and presentation of superb ingredients. nouvelle cuisine french for “new cooking”; a mid-20th-century movement away from many classic cuisine principles and toward a lighter cuisine based on natural flavors, shortened cooking times and innovative combinations international cuisine the cuisine and dining practices characteristic of a country or region New American cuisine a late 20th-century movement that first became popular in California and spread across the United states; it stresses the use of fresh, locally grown, seasonal produce and high-quality ingredients simply prepared in a fashion that preserves and emphasizes natural flavors fusion cuisine the blending or use of ingredients and/or preparation methods from various international, regional or national cuisines in the same dish; also known as transnational cuisine regional cuisine a collection of foods and beverages based on local ingredients, traditions and practices; within a larger geographical, political, cultural or social unit, regional cuisines are often variations of one another that blend together to create a national cuisine national cuisine the characteristic cuisine of a nation

Chef alice Waters of Chez Panisse in Berkley, California, a founder of today’s local food movement.

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CHaPTer one

Chef nancy silverton at her la Brea Bakery in 2000.

Beets and leeks, a signature dish prepared at The french laundry in Yountville, California, by Chef Thomas Keller and his staff.

soul food vegan dinner party prepared by Chef Bryant Terry.

French duck confit may be seasoned with lemongrass, ginger and chiles. Pizzas with untraditional toppings, such as smoked salmon and caviar, launched Wolfgang Puck’s career in Los Angeles, California, in the early 1980s. Today such fusion is commonplace—from Chef Roy Choi’s Kogi BBQ Korean-Mexican tacos in Southern California to the subtle use of Asian seasonings in the classic sauces prepared by Jean-Georges Vongerichten at his restaurants throughout the country. But in the 1970s and 1980s, fusion represented a breakthrough in cooking that soon spread throughout the western culinary community. In recent years, chefs have been instrumental in changing the way Americans dine by elevating the style and quality of the foods they serve. For example, the current popularity of sourdough and artisan bread can be traced directly to Chef Nancy Silverton and her La Brea Bakery in Los Angeles. With degrees from Le Cordon Blue in London and Ecole Le Nôtre in France, Silverton settled in Los Angeles, joining Wolfgang Puck as the first pastry chef at Spago. Her cookbook Desserts, written during that time, is still considered a classic. Before opening La Brea Bakery, Silverton tested bread recipes using wild yeasts and various sourdough starters hundreds of times, finally settling on a dough made with wild yeast from grapes, then hand-shaped and given a slow two-day rise. Her attention to detail and consistency earned her business success and extensive industry recognition. Chef Thomas Keller, who started cooking in restaurants in his teens, worked at renowned restaurants Guy Savoy and Le Taillevent in Paris before opening his own restaurant in 1994. Today experts regard Keller’s restaurants, The French Laundry in Yountville, California, and Per Se in New York City, as among the finest in the world. His cuisine, based on traditional French and modern cooking techniques, utilizes only foods in season, many grown on premises or sourced from local farmers. Known for producing lengthy tasting menus with clean flavors as well as his obsessive attention to detail, Keller develops professionalism in his staff, who are encouraged to be mindful, organized and “work clean.” The focus of Chef Bryant Terry’s career is to create a “healthy, just and sustainable food system” for everyone. Now chef-in-residence at the Museum of the African Diaspora (MoAD) in San Francisco, he was born and raised in the American South, educated at NYU, then completed the Chef’s Training program at the Natural Gourmet Institute for Health and Culinary Arts in New York. Terry explains that his work celebrates the staples, flavor profiles and ingredients from the African continent, the Caribbean and the American South. He believes that what he celebrates can bring health and pleasure into people’s kitchens. Terry has published several acclaimed vegan cookbooks, including Afro-Vegan and Grub. Terry’s drive to encourage healthy eating stems from memories of his family’s small farms and gardens: “They didn’t call it local food, they didn’t call it the organic-local-seasonal-sustainable movement—it was just the way that they lived.” Bayona restaurant, located in the heart of New Orleans’ French Quarter, has served award-winning cross-cultural cuisine for almost 35 years. Chef-owner Susan Spicer uses fresh, locally grown ingredients in daily menus influenced by elements of European, Asian and Indian cuisine. Spicer is known for giving back to the community and feels her success is due to consistent hard work and her ability to “see the big picture” of the business and how “it all comes together on the plate.” While Bayona is an icon of the New Orleans culinary scene, Spicer has launched several other highly acclaimed restaurants in the area, often with former employees, whom she proudly mentors. All the chefs mentioned in this text have received many awards for their work, including recognition from the James Beard Foundation. However, chefs of this caliber do not work for the awards and acclaim, they succeeded as professionals because they love the business, want to serve their customers well, care about their staff and find joy in always learning more.

Global Foods, Local Ingredients The fluidity of international borders, the accessibility of global travel and the Internet have radically changed the way we cook and the foods we eat. During the first decades of the 21st century, chefs in the United States and other countries embraced simple

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snacks, street food and home cooking from countries they visited online or in person. From tacos de birria (meat-stew filled tacos served hot in markets across Tijuana, Mexico) to Chinese xiaolongbao (steamed soup-filled buns), restaurant chefs have incorporated global flavors and street foods onto their menus. In addition, the signature flavors found in street food and other global cuisines are migrating onto menus in the form of dipping sauces, salad dressings, spicy rubs and humble sandwiches. Today chefs are sourcing ingredients globally as well as working in tandem with farmers to supply their guests with fresh flavors while preserving local agriculture and heirloom varieties. As we discuss in detail later in this chapter, the concern for locally raised ingredients, referred to as the farm-to-table or locavore movement, has influenced chefs to serve fresh seasonal foods, such as wild greens or shellfish from day boat clammers, that are grown or harvested within a few miles of their restaurants.

Modernist Cuisine During the 1990s scientists, particularly in the United States, England, France and Spain, began to see food preparation as a distinct and worthy field of exploration. Chefs and scientists wanted to understand why food behaved as it did, why traditional cooking techniques sometimes failed and how to improve culinary methods. They began seeking answers to these questions under the umbrella of molecular gastronomy, a term coined by the British physicist Nicholas Kurti and French chemist Hervé This in 1988. Inspired by the experiments of molecular gastronomy, early 21st-century chefs reinvented the notion of cooking by employing ingredients and machinery more common in industrial food manufacturing than in restaurant kitchens. This offshoot of molecular gastronomy is now referred to as modernist cuisine, first defined by Nathan Myhrvold (former Chief Technology Officer at Microsoft and the principal author of Modernist Cuisine, Modernist Bread and Modernist Pizza). The founding chef of this movement is Ferran Adrià of elBulli, which operated in Roses, Spain, from 1987 to 2011. The food served at elBulli engaged all of one’s senses. Dinner was a tasting menu of up to 35 bite-sized dishes. What appeared to be cooked may actually have been flash frozen. An herb clipped to a spoon allowed guests to smell the aroma before tasting the herb in the dish. Warm foam tasted of carrots or mushrooms, hot gelatin encapsulated mango purée that resembled egg yolks and ravioli filled with liquid were some of the show-stopping techniques for which Adrià became known. Current practitioners include Heston Blumenthal at The Fat Duck in Bray, England, Massimo Bottura at Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy and Grant Achatz at Alinea in Chicago. The hallmarks of this high-tech haute cuisine include dehydrators, edible menus, gels and spheres, intensely flavored smoke and –30°F anti-griddles that “cook” liquefied food. These chefs produce foods that look like one thing, taste like something totally different and smell like childhood memories. Take Blumenthal’s bacon and egg ice cream as one example. It is a plated dessert consisting of ice cream made from a bacon-infused custard. All the elements of the savory breakfast appear on the plate including a cup of tea, served as a sweet jelly, and toast in the form of sweet, caramelized brioche. As Blumenthal says, his goal is to make food exciting by overturning expectations. Although few restaurants are going to the extreme of replacing their cooktops with water baths and chemical freezers, many of the tools and techniques that these avant-garde chefs perfected are now being used and appreciated on a smaller scale by chefs who may add a gelled garnish or spheres of sauce to a traditional dish.

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE MODERN FOOD SERVICE OPERATION From Monsieur Boulanger’s humble establishment, a great industry has grown. The growth and diversification of the food service industry in Europe and the Americas is due in part to the Industrial Revolution of the 19th century and the social and economic changes it brought, including the introduction of new culinary technologies, food supplies and consumer concerns.

Chef susan spicer, owner of the acclaimed Bayona in new orleans.

lamb skewers cooked on the street in Kashgar, Xinjiang, China.

street food ready-to-eat or cooked dishes prepared to order from a vendor in a cart or public market global cuisine foods (often commercially produced items) or preparation methods that have become ubiquitous throughout the world; for example, curries, pizza, sandwiches and fried potatoes farm-to-table or locavore movement an awareness of the source of ingredients with an emphasis on serving locally grown and minimally processed foods in season molecular gastronomy a contemporary scientific movement that investigates the chemistry and physics of food preparation modernist cuisine a term that refers to science-inspired techniques for food preparation; an avant-garde approach to food preparation, sanitation and health concerns based on science-inspired techniques

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Culinary Technologies

liquid olives, created by Chef ferran adrià.

Technology has always had a profound effect on cooking. For example, the development of clay and, later, metal vessels that could contain liquids and withstand and conduct heat offered prehistoric cooks the opportunity to stew, make soups and porridge, pickle and brine foods and control fermentation. But it was not until the rapid technological advances fostered by the Industrial Revolution that anything approaching the modern kitchen was possible. One of the most important advancements was the introduction of the cast-iron stove. Prior to the 19th century, most cooking was done on spits or grills or in cauldrons or pots set on or in a wood- or coal-burning hearth. Hearthside cooking did not lend itself well to the simultaneous preparation of many items or to items requiring constant and delicate attention. With the introduction of cast-iron stoves during the 1800s, cooks could more comfortably and safely approach the heat source and control its temperatures. On the new cook stoves, they could also prepare foods in the small quantities needed to serve individual diners on demand. Also of great importance were developments in food preservation and storage techniques. For thousands of years food had been preserved by sun-drying, salting, smoking, pickling, sugar-curing or fermenting. Salt-cured codfish and salmon have been staples in Scandinavia for millennia, and the earliest household records and cookery manuscripts from medieval Britain include inventories of bacon and salted meats. Although useful, these ancient procedures dramatically change the appearance and flavor of most foods. By the early 19th century, preserving techniques began to emerge that had minimal effect on appearance and flavor. For example, by 1800 food could be “canned” by storing it in sterilized glass jars subjected to very high heat. An early mechanical refrigerator was developed by the mid-1800s; soon reliable iceboxes, refrigerators and, later, freezers were available. During the 20th century freeze-drying, vacuum-packing and irradiation became common preservation techniques. Developments in transportation technology were also underway. During the 19th century steam-powered ships and railroads brought foods quickly to market from distant suppliers. Since the mid-20th century temperature-controlled cargo ships, trains, trucks and airplanes have all been used as part of an integrated worldwide food transportation network. Combined with dependable food preservation and storage techniques, improved transportation networks freed chefs from seasonal and geographic limitations in their choice of foods and expanded consumers’ culinary horizons. Advancements in technology also facilitated or even eliminated much routine kitchen work. Since the 19th century chefs have relied increasingly on mechanical and motorized food processors, mixers and cutters as well as a wealth of sophisticated kitchen equipment from high-carbon stainless steel knife blades to infrared thermometers and ultrasonic homogenizers. Foodservice operators faced with staff shortages are even turning towards robots to perform repetitive kitchen tasks such as preparing French fried potatoes.

Food Supplies

robot waiters at the Gran Caffè rapallo restaurant in liguria, the first restaurant in italy to use automated service devices.

genetically modified organism (GMO) a plant, microorganism or animal in which genetic material (segments of Dna) have been modified or engineered in a laboratory to change inheritable characteristics, such as resistance to insects or herbicides

Modern food preservation, storage and transportation techniques have made both fresh and exotic foods regularly available to chefs and consumers. Because of advances in packaging and transportation, foodstuffs grown or made virtually anywhere in the world are now available to restaurants regardless of season or location. Last century’s advancements in agriculture, such as the switch from organic to chemical fertilizers and the introduction of pesticides and drought- or pest-resistant strains, increased yields of healthy crops. Traditional hybridization techniques and, more recently, genetic engineering have produced new varieties of grains, such as soybeans, corn, rapeseeds and rice, which are resistant to herbicides or insects. Although scientists may argue that such engineering simply speeds up the process of natural selection, consumers are often more concerned about the unforeseen impact on consumer health and unintended consequences to the environment. Governments around the world regulate, restrict or outright ban the sale of foodstuffs containing genetically modified organisms (GMOs) on a case-by-case basis.

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Additionally, advancements in animal husbandry and aquaculture have led to a more reliable supply of leaner meat, poultry and fish. Foods found traditionally only in the wild (for example, game, wild rice and many mushrooms) are now being raised commercially and are routinely available. The commercialization of foodstuffs has created a backlash among some consumers and chefs, however. New concerns about sustainability and support for local farmers and food producers present the industry with new challenges and new opportunities for chefs to revise their menus and adopt ecologically based business practices.

Consumer Concerns Consumer concerns about nutrition and diet have fueled changes in the food service industry. Obviously, what we eat affects our health. Adequate amounts of certain nutrients promote good health by preventing deficiencies; studies show that good nutrition also helps prevent chronic diseases and increases longevity. Chefs must now understand human nutritional needs and the various special diets followed by customers. Beyond simply reducing fat and sugar for weight control, chefs must accommodate customers’ allergies, specialized diets due to illnesses and ethical or social dining concerns of groups such as vegetarians and locavores. The public is also rightfully concerned about food safety. Federal, state and local governments help promote food safety by inspecting and grading meats and poultry, regulating label contents for packaged foods and setting sanitation standards. The last line of defense, however, are the restaurant workers who prepare and serve food. It is up to you, as a culinary professional, to follow sanitation and food safety guidelines to protect others from injury or illness. Concerns about nutrition and food safety have also resulted in renewed interest in local and organically grown fruits and vegetables and free-range-raised animals. The local food movement and the concern for sustainable food production are leading chefs to find new sources for ingredients and expand their community involvement.

Local Production Fresh foods travel from the producer to the consumer by two basic methods: (1) the industrial, commercial system, which operates huge, consolidated farms and global transportation networks and (2) small local or regional systems. One key difference is how far the food travels from where it is grown or produced to the end consumer. Local systems distribute food items over short distances. These local farms are often small family farms, which are defined by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) as those operated by the people who own the land or the animals and have sales of less than $350,000 per year. While the word local implies that the food item is being sold close to where it was grown or produced, there is no consistent definition for that term. Many consumers and organizations working in this field, such as farmer’s markets, cite a radius of 50–100 miles (80–160 km) from production to point of sale as the determining factor. Weather conditions, urbanization and production capacity of the area also have an impact on the definition of local, sometimes extending the acceptable zone into a larger regional area. The USDA indicates that food can be marketed as local or regional if the total distance the product was transported is less than 400 miles (640 km) from where it originated. Chefs are using the public’s interest in eating locally produced foods to create restaurant menus featuring such products. Some chefs, like their pre-industrial predecessors, now grow their own produce, raise their own pigs or chickens and forage from nearby forests for ingredients. They may contract with local farmers, beekeepers, cheese makers or seafood suppliers for products, building their menus according to product availability, rather than serving out-of-season items or those transported long distances. In its purest version, farm-to-table means that the foods served come directly from a local farm, without passing through a market, distributor or grocery store. It implies a relationship between the chef and the farmer, with the chef serving the farm’s products at their peak of freshness, ripeness and flavor. Farm-to-table menus may change daily due to product availability, and preparation techniques focus on retaining nutrients and freshness.

A Very Big Business Indeed The national restaurant association, which closely monitors the economic impact of the U.s. food service industry, issued the following statistics for 2021: ▪ There are nearly one million foodservice outlets in the United states; total annual sales were approximately $799 billion. ▪ more than 14.5 million people were employed in the restaurant industry. ▪ nearly half of all american adults have worked in the food service industry at some time during their lives. ▪ restaurants are an essential part of the lifestyle of 63 percent of all adults.

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Sustainability

some chefs work directly with farmers to produce ingredients used in their restaurants.

sustainability an integrated and systematic approach to what and how we consume with a goal to minimize human impact on the environment and protect natural resources composting recycling organic matter such as vegetable trimmings into soil by the process of natural decay food miles the distance a food item travels from its point of production to where it is consumed fairtrade a global social movement that helps commodity producers in developing countries obtain a fair deal for their export goods (such as fruit, coffee beans and cacao beans), supports sustainable farming practices, discourages the use of certain pesticides and bans child labor

It is important to keep in mind that coming from nearby or being produced on a small farm does not necessarily mean the foods themselves are healthier, organic or in any way more natural. Sustainable and local are related concepts, but not necessarily the same thing. Sustainability is a broad concept, referring to a variety of practices used to minimize human impact on the environment and protect natural resources. Sustainability is an integrated and systematic approach to what and how we consume. Energy and water consumption, land use, building construction and waste disposal all have an impact on sustainability. In the realm of food service, sustainability refers to growing or harvesting foodstuffs in an environmentally and socially responsible manner. Chefs are becoming more aware and concerned about how their products and businesses impact the environment. Experts such as Chef Jeong Kwan study sustainable farming practices, including avoiding the use of herbicides and pesticides and reducing consumption of fossil fuels. Reducing packaging, composting and selling directly to consumers all help farmers lessen their environmental impact. Such practices can also improve the socioeconomic conditions of the community and the health of farm workers. For food service establishments, sustainability can begin with some of the following simple steps: ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪

Minimize food miles—the distance food travels to reach the establishment—by purchasing locally grown foodstuffs. Grow herbs and produce onsite to ensure freshness and reduce food miles. Incorporate diverse, seasonal locally grown foods into your menu. Educate your staff so that they can explain these sometimes–unfamiliar items to customers in a positive manner. Compost vegetable trimmings and coffee grounds to share with a local farm that recycles waste into nourishment. Install a water filtration system and replace bottled water with your own filtered water served to customers in reusable glass. Eliminate single-use plastics whenever possible. Use cleaning products certified as nonpolluting. Use eco-friendly and biodegradable paper products and take-out containers. Recycle cardboard, metal, glass and other trash.

Even without planting a restaurant garden, almost any chef can participate in these movements by buying as many seasonal, locally produced products as possible and using imported items, such as coffee, bananas and chocolate, that are fairtrade certified. Chefs can also use the principles of sustainability to foster their creativity and values. Danish Chef René Redzepi and his colleagues have received worldwide renown for using only local products, many never–considered foodstuffs, to create an exciting new cuisine. At Noma and Restaurant 108 in Copenhagen, he and his staff spend months experimenting with such ingredients as forest onions, sea buckthorn and wood ants foraged from land and beaches around Copenhagen to create ever-changing, highly unusual seasonal menus. But his impact extends beyond haute cuisine. Following a set of principles that stress sustainability and a respect for the natural world, Redzepi, Claus Meyer and other Noma cofounders are having a global impact. Some programs under their direction include food training for the underserved, research and development for sustainable food production systems from farm to factory, documenting the culinary traditions of world cuisines and improving school meals in the United States. In 2011, Redzepi founded MAD, a think tank and conference whose mission is to “empower cooks, servers, and eaters to create sustainable change.”

Social Changes Chef rene redzepi of noma in Copenhagen, Denmark, forages in the south australian outback.

Demographic and social changes have contributed to the diversification of the food service industry by creating or identifying new consumer groups that have their own desires or preferences. The needs of dual-income households,

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single-parent families and an aging population, as well as other market segments, impact the places and ways in which foods are sold and consumed. By tailoring their menus, prices and décor accordingly, food service operators target consumer groups defined by age, type of household, income, education, geography and many other factors. The number and types of institutions providing food services is also increasing. These include hospitals, schools, retirement centers, sports facilities, cruise ships, private clubs, grocery stores, hotels and resorts (which may in turn have fine dining, coffee shop, quick service, banquet and room service facilities), supermarkets, food trucks, factories and office buildings. Changes brought on by the global pandemic have reshaped many foodservice operations, pushing them into the take-out and delivery businesses. The lines between restaurant meals and at-home dining have blurred, as food is now prepared and consumed in a greater number of environments than ever before. At the same time, consumers are becoming better educated and more sophisticated through travel or exposure to the many television programs, websites, books, blogs and videos about food. Educated consumers provide a market for new cuisines as well as appreciation for innovative quality food service.

Jeong Kwan (1957–) Jeong Kwan grew up on a farm in Youngju, south Korea, but chose the path of an ascetic Buddhist nun as a teenager, joining the 7th-century Baekyangsa Temple nestled against a mountain in what is now naejangsan national Park. Kwan’s first work assignment as a novice was in the monastery’s kitchen where she prepared meals for temple members following strict Buddhist dietary guidelines but without the aid of recipes. fifty years later she is still there, growing and preparing food for the temple’s residents and sharing her philosophy with occasional visitors. Kwan has become the icon and guardian of Korean Buddhist temple cuisine. With neither formal culinary training nor experience working in a restaurant, she has nevertheless become an inspiration to some of the world’s top chefs, such as eric ripert (pictured with Kwan here), mingoo Kang and rene redzepi, who visit Korea to study with her. Kwan gained international prominence as a featured chef in the netflix documentary “Chef ’s Table.” in 2022, asia’s 50 Best restaurants honored her with its icon award. Temple cuisine omits meat, poultry, dairy and seafood as well as pungent herbs, specifically garlic, onions, green onion, chives and leeks. By using a wide variety of fresh and fermented vegetables and other plants, a temple cuisine diet is highly nutritious and helps keep the mind calm. and in the hands of a master like Kwan, the cuisine is a visual delight and flavorful experience. at

Chef Jeong Kwan with Chef eric ripert Baekyangsa, Kwan and the other nuns and monks grow or forage most of their own food. even condiments such as soy sauce, sesame oil, doenjang (soybean paste) and fruit syrups are made by hand and often aged for years. Until recently she was not out in the world, and she has no interest in gourmet ingredients or fine dining. as Kwan explains, she is not a chef but a Buddhist nun whose practice is devoted to preparing and sharing food in ways that preserve the environment and benefit all sentient beings. she encourages people to get to know and understand food ingredients in the way they might get to know other people, by spending time with them. she urges everyone to think about how food is

treated and the nature and purpose of eating. “You can’t just do whatever you want to do with foods,” she says. “You must understand their natural taste, flavors and textures. To do that, you must know yourself, which is part of Buddhist practice.” Kwan uses the natural processes of fermentation and dehydration to develop flavors and aromas, applying time and air as cooking techniques. as a farmer she watches closely as fruits, vegetables and other plants mature, adjusting her preparation techniques and use of seasonings accordingly. at one stage, lightly salting a vegetable is best, but later the same vegetable benefits more from a splash of her aged homemade soy sauce or wild sesame oil. according to Kwan, food is not something to be mastered; rather, the cook must bend to the will of the food and treat ingredients with respect. rarely working from recipes, her dishes differ each time she prepares them, depending on who she is cooking with or for whom she is cooking. she urges non-Buddhists and Buddhist practitioners alike to think about how food is treated and the nature and purpose of eating. “To me, cooking is not about being fancy or showing off difficult skills, but becoming one with the ingredients,” she explains. “What she does has nothing to do with what professional chefs do,” explains Chef ripert. “it’s not about ratings; there’s no ego involved. it’s just Zen practice, and her food happens to be amazing.”

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ORGANIZATION OF CLASSIC AND MODERN KITCHENS brigade a system of staffing a kitchen so that each worker is assigned a set of specific tasks; these tasks are often related by cooking method, equipment or the types of foods being produced work station area dedicated to and equipped with tools for a specific task cross train to become proficient at more than one skill or job responsibility

Positions in a Kitchen Brigade French Term

English Term

Chef

executive chef

Chef de cuisine

Chef

Sous-chef

Under chef or second chef

Chefs de partie

station chefs

Aboyueur

expediter

Boucher

Butcher

Boulanger

Bread baker

Entremetier

Vegetable station chef

Friturier

fry station chef

Garde-manger

Pantry chef

Grillardin

Grill station chef

Légumier

Vegetable station chef

Pâtissier

Pastry chef

Poissonier

fish station chef

Potager

soup station chef

Rôtisseur

roast station chef

Saucier

sauté station chef

Tournant

swing cook

Demi-chefs

assistants

Commis

entry-level assistants

Apprentis

apprentices

Figure 1.1 Positions in a classic french kitchen brigade, on the left and english counterparts, on the right.

To function efficiently a food service operation must be well organized and staffed with appropriate personnel. This staff is traditionally called a brigade. Escoffier is credited with developing the classic kitchen brigade system used in large restaurant kitchens. From the chaos and redundancy found in the private kitchens of the 19th century’s aristocracy, he created a distinct hierarchy of responsibilities and functions for food service operations. Modern kitchens use a simplified version of this brigade in order to reduce labor costs and streamline operations. Figure 1.1 lists the positions in a kitchen brigade. Today’s food service operations are generally led by an executive chef, who coordinates kitchen activities and directs the kitchen staff’s training and work efforts. Executive chefs plan menus and create recipes. They set and enforce nutrition, safety and sanitation standards and participate in (or at least observe) the preparation and presentation of menu items to ensure that quality standards are rigorously and consistently maintained. They are also responsible for purchasing food items and, often, equipment. In some food service operations, the executive chef may assist in designing the menu, dining room and kitchen. Executive chefs may also work with food purveyors, catering directors, equipment vendors, financial consultants, the media, sanitation inspectors and dietitians. In some operations a chef with some or all of these responsibilities may be referred to as a chef de cuisine. The executive chef is assisted by a sous-chef or executive sous-chef, whose primary responsibility is to make sure that the food is prepared, portioned, garnished and presented according to the executive chef’s standards. The sous-chef may be the cook principally responsible for producing menu items and supervising the kitchen and staff at different work stations. Line cooks (or section cooks) are responsible for preparing menu items according to recipe specifications. They may be assigned to a specific area, such as the broiler or pantry station, as was common in a classic French kitchen brigade. A tournant or swing cook is cross-trained and capable of working several stations and is assigned to the area where the need is greatest during each shift. Pastry chefs are responsible for developing recipes for and preparing desserts, pastries, frozen desserts and breads. They are usually responsible for purchasing the food items used in the bakeshop. Prep cooks, assistants and apprentices are employed as entry-level workers throughout modern kitchens. New styles of dining have created new positions since Escoffier’s days. The most notable is the short-order cook, who is responsible for quickly preparing foods to order. A short-order cook will work the broiler, deep-fat fryer and griddle as well as make sandwiches and even some sautéed items. Another is the institutional cook, who generally works with large quantities of packaged or prepared foods for a captive market, such as a school, hospital or prison. A restaurant may employ a master chef (maître cuisinier), master pastry chef (maître pâtissier) or master baker (maître boulanger, or bäckermeister in German). These titles recognize the highest level of achievement; only highly skilled and experienced professionals who have demonstrated their expertise and knowledge in written and practical exams are entitled to use them. These titles recall the European guild tradition still alive in many countries today. In France and Germany, for example, a chef, pastry chef or baker must pursue many years of classroom and job training, work as an apprentice and pass numerous examinations before acquiring the right to the title “master.” In the United States, professional organizations administer programs that certify the professional experience of chefs, pastry chefs and bakers.

ATTRIBUTES OF SUCCESSFUL CULINARY PROFESSIONALS Although there is no one recipe for producing a good professional chef, with knowledge, skill, taste, judgment, dedication and pride, a student chef will mature into someone who understands the importance of ethical, professional behavior in and out of the kitchen, and who is prepared to change jobs or career paths according to personal or industry needs.

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Knowledge Chefs must be able to identify, purchase, utilize and prepare a wide variety of foods. They should be able to train and supervise a safe, skilled and efficient staff. To do all this successfully, chefs must possess a body of knowledge and understand and apply certain scientific and business principles. Schooling helps. A professional culinary program should, at a minimum, provide the student chef with a basic knowledge of foods, food styles and the methods used to prepare foods. Student chefs should also understand sanitation, nutrition and business procedures such as food costing. In this way we follow the trail blazed by Escoffier, who wrote in the introduction to Le Guide culinaire that his book is not intended to be a compendium of recipes slavishly followed, but rather a tool that leaves his colleagues “free to develop their own methods and follow their own inspiration; ... the art of cooking ... will evolve as a society evolves ... only basic rules remain unalterable.”

Skill Culinary schooling alone does not turn a student into a chef. Nothing but practical, hands-on experience will provide even the most academically gifted student with the skills needed to produce, consistently and efficiently, quality foods or to organize, train, motivate and supervise a staff. No one becomes a successful executive chef or restaurant owner overnight. New workers, even those who have graduated from culinary programs, need time and experience to develop and hone their skills. Therefore many graduates start in entry-level positions. Do not be discouraged; advancement will come, and the training pays off in the long run. Many highly regarded chefs, including Thomas Keller, Anthony Bourdain and Bobby Flay, began their careers as dishwashers. Moving up from dishwasher to prep cook or from line cook to sous-chef are natural steps in a beginner’s professional career. Culinary styles and fashions change frequently. What does not go out of fashion are well-trained, skilled and knowledgeable chefs. They can adapt.

Taste In addition to being knowledgeable or skilled, a chef must be able to produce foods that taste great, or the consumer will not return. Chefs can do this only if they are confident about their own perceptions of flavor and taste. The human perception of taste is a complex combination of smell, taste, sight, sound and texture. All the senses are involved in the enjoyment of eating; all must be considered in creating or preparing a dish. The chef should develop a flavor memory by sampling foods, both familiar and unfamiliar. Chefs should also think about what they taste and the flavor they perceive, making notes and experimenting with flavor combinations and cooking methods. But a chef should not be inventive simply for the sake of invention. Rather a chef must consider how the flavors, appearances, textures and aromas of various foods will interact to create a total taste experience.

Judgment Selecting menu items, determining how much of each item to purchase, deciding whether and how to combine ingredients and approving finished items for service are all matters of judgment. Although knowledge and skill play a role in developing judgment, sound judgment comes only with experience, and real experience is often accompanied by failure. Do not be upset or surprised when a dish does not turn out as you expected. Learn from your mistakes as well as from your successes; this is the only way to develop sound judgment.

Dedication Becoming a chef is hard work; so is being one. The work is often physically taxing, the hours are usually long and the pace is frequently hectic. As a new cook, you may be expected to work nights, weekends and holidays. In the world of restaurants and hotels, these are the busiest times that require the most staff. Work hours may include early mornings, late nights

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The Dining Room Brigade like the back-of-the-house (kitchen) staff, the front-of-the-house (dining room) staff is also organized into a brigade. a traditional dining room brigade is led by the dining room manager (maître d’hotel or maître d’), who generally trains all service personnel, oversees wine selections and works with the chef to develop the menu. The dining room manager organizes the seating chart, seats guests and oversees the following subordinates: ▪ The wine steward (sommelier), who is responsible for the wine service, including purchasing wines, assisting guests in selecting wines and serving the wines ▪ The headwaiter (chef de salle), who is responsible for service throughout the dining room or a section of it; in smaller operations this role may be assumed by the maître d’ or a captain ▪ The captains (chefs d’étage), who are responsible for explaining the menu to guests and taking their orders; they are also responsible for any tableside preparations ▪ The front waiters (chefs de rang), who are responsible for assuring that the tables are set properly for each course, foods are delivered properly to the proper tables and the needs of the guests are met ▪ The back waiters (demi-chefs de rang or commis de rang, also known as buspersons), who are responsible for clearing plates, refilling water glasses and other general tasks appropriate for new dining room workers Whether a restaurant uses this entire array of staff depends on the nature and size of the restaurant and the type of service provided.

14

CHaPTer one

La Toque Blanche although the toque traces its origin to the monasteries of the 6th century, the style worn today was introduced at the end of the 19th century. most chefs now wear a standard 6- or 9-inch-high toque, but historically, a cook’s rank in the kitchen dictated the type of hat worn. Beginners wore flat-topped calottes; cooks with more advanced skills wore low toques and the master chefs wore high toques called dodin-bouffants. Culinary lore holds that the toque’s pleats—101 in all—represent the 101 ways its wearer can successfully prepare eggs.

and back-to-back shifts. Depending on your personality, you may find the adrenalin rush of a hectic restaurant dinner service exciting, or you may prefer quiet, early morning bakery preparations. In either situation, cooks must generally perform in close quarters, stand for several hours at a time, lift heavy pans of food and work around hot stoves and deep fryers. Despite these pressures, the chef is expected to efficiently produce consistently good food that is properly prepared, seasoned, garnished and presented. To do so, the chef must be dedicated to the job and display their work ethic every day regardless of the circumstances. The food service industry is competitive and depends on the continuing goodwill of an often fickle public. One bad dish or one off night can result in a disgruntled diner and lost business. Chefs should always be mindful of the food prepared and the customer served. Chefs must also be dedicated to their staff. Virtually all food service operations rely on teamwork to get the job done well. Good teamwork requires a positive attitude and dedication to a shared goal, which is as impressive to a prospective employer as well-honed technical skills. Chefs should demonstrate their dedication to the profession itself and to their peers as well. Numerous regional, national and international organizations provide services, educational seminars and networking opportunities for members. By joining and participating in relevant associations, chefs may encounter new job opportunities, new products and new ideas to expand their horizons.

Pride

La toque blanche as worn by Chef Paul Bocuse and his staff. Bocuse earned the title of Un des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France, his restaurant held three michelin stars for 52 years, the longest any restaurant held the honor and he was named the Culinary institute of america’s Chef of the Century. work ethic a belief in the virtue of hard work, honesty, discipline and respect on the job

Not only is it important that the job be well done, but the professional chef should have a sense of pride in doing it well. Pride should also extend to personal appearance and behavior in and around the kitchen. The professional chef should be well-groomed and in a clean, well-maintained uniform when working. The professional chef’s uniform consists of comfortable shoes, trousers (often solid black or black-and-white checked), a white double-breasted jacket and an apron. (Some establishments also require a neckerchief usually knotted or secured with a metal ring while the cut and color of a chef’s uniform may vary in less formal establishments.) The uniform has certain utilitarian aspects: Checked trousers disguise stains; the double-breasted white jacket can be rebuttoned to hide dirt and the double layer of fabric protects from scalds and burns; and the apron protects the uniform and insulates the body. Regardless of its style, this uniform should be worn with pride. Shoes should be polished; trousers and jacket should be pressed. The crowning element of the uniform is the toque, the tall white hat worn by chefs almost everywhere.

PROFESSIONAL ETHICS As a professional culinarian, you are expected to be honest, responsible and ethical. Professional organizations, such as the American Culinary Federation (ACF), the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP), the World Association of Chefs’ Societies (Worldchefs) and others, require their members to adhere to codes of ethics. Violations of these codes poison the work environment and your professional reputation. In many instances violations of these codes will result in termination from a job. These codes generally include specific behaviors that all professionals, in any industry, should follow, such as: ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪

Conducting yourself with honesty, fairness and integrity Avoiding conflicts of interest or misuse of monies Not discriminating against others or engaging in sexual harassment Accurately representing yourself, your work experiences and your education Supporting the growth and professional activities of colleagues Cooperating with coworkers in a fair, considerate manner Acknowledging the contribution of other people and their cultures Respecting team members and supervisors Complying with local and national laws and regulations

Professionalism

15

CULINARY CAREERS Young adults entering the working world now can look forward to several different careers during their working lifetimes. Luckily, the choices available to well-trained culinary professionals now extend far beyond the kitchen. A culinary education prepares you for entry-level positions in hotel, catering and restaurant kitchens, but it can also lead to a wide range of other employment opportunities following graduation and for many years into the future. As a working chef, you may choose to focus in a specific area of food preparation, such as garde-manger, pastry, butchery, or you might prefer to be a generalist—a tournant or swing cook—able to work at virtually any station. After a few years of experience your career may change or go in a different direction, however. This is normal and can be exciting.

Hospitality Groups Multi-concept food service groups (hospitality groups) are a dynamic sector of the industry, offering many opportunities for employment and advancement. Unlike chain restaurants, which manage the same brand in many locations, multi-concept hospitality groups share management and values but operate a portfolio of different types and brands of operations. By working for a hospitality group, a cook can stay with one company while experiencing a variety of food service operations. Most provide training and mentorship to help employees advance along various career paths within the organization’s diverse businesses. Employees might transfer between properties for a promotion or to simply learn new skills. Groups may include a combination of fine dining restaurants, bars, casual theme restaurants, food trucks, and cafes serving a variety of cuisines. They are often established under the umbrella of successful chefs who wish to expand their reach and recognition without copying their flagship restaurant. This variety allows the chef to explore different cuisines and styles of service without forsaking their original success. Often privately owned, such groups understand marketing and are founded on the owner-managers’ entrepreneurial drive and creativity. Some come from a culinary background, others from hotels, business management or even real estate development. The chefs and managers at individual properties may eventually become owners themselves, and partnerships with entrepreneurial chefs can provide behind-the-scenes business and financial support for that chef’s existing concept. A group’s strength lies in both operations and back-end management. As an operator, a group oversees chefs, wait staff, menus and the daily food service business. As a management company, a group can handle human resources, accounting, purchasing, marketing, building maintenance and other tasks simultaneously for all concepts in the group, resulting in lower costs and more efficiency. Some multi-concept restaurant groups are chef-owned, such as the Marcus Samuelsson Group in New York and the Tom Douglas Seattle Kitchen group in Seattle. Not only do chef-owner groups operate restaurants, but they might also produce cookbooks and retail food products, offering staff opportunities to work in recipe and product development, marketing and writing. Innovative groups share a work culture and business vision. Take Chef José Andrés’ ThinkFoodGroup for example. Those who work for any of its 28 restaurants across the United States and internationally are invited to share in the company’s mission “to change the world through the power of food,” which could involve preparing fast-food vegetarian cuisine or working at fundraising events for World Central Kitchen, the non-profit food relief organization founded by José and Patricia Andrés.

Two chefs pictured in the frontispiece of antonin Carême’s c. 1822 book Le Maître d’hotel francais wear the classic double-breasted chef ’s jacket still worn today.

Alternative Careers A culinary professional may enjoy cooking, developing recipes and producing food for others without working in a traditional kitchen, however. For example, personal chefs work in private homes cooking for a family or an individual. International cruise lines and private yachts also employ cooks and chefs, as do corporate office buildings, factories and college food service operations. Experienced culinary professionals may be

Chef Jose andrés, whose ThinkfoodGroup operates 28 restaurants.

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CHaPTer one

entrepreneur person who creates, organizes and finances one or more businesses stage [stahzh] a brief internship or training session in a professional kitchen; from the french stagiaire, meaning apprentice or intern; in asia and europe, this work is unpaid

employed by food manufacturers, food distributors or large restaurant groups in test kitchens, product research and development, sensory evaluation labs and marketing departments. Grocery stores hire chefs to develop and prepare home-meal replacement foods and conduct in-store demonstrations. Hospitals and assisted-living residences need trained chefs, in addition to registered dietitians and nutrition specialists, to accommodate the needs and interests of their clients. Alternative careers for culinary graduates include working for food publications, including books, magazines and digital media, which need culinarians as writers, critics, recipe developers, food stylists and editors. You might even move into restaurant consulting, or open your own culinary business as an entrepreneur. With the proper advanced education and experience, you may find opportunities to teach in a professional culinary school or for avocational or community classes. Advanced education is available in gastronomy, hospitality, tourism, restaurant management, culinary entrepreneurship and related fields. Many non-degree programs offer specific training for cooks in subjects as diverse as international cuisines, wine and spirits, financial management and pâtisserie. A culinarian, even one with many years of experience, may work an entry-level stage or internship, lasting from a few days to a few months, in a world-class kitchen simply for the opportunity to increase knowledge and skills. Self-education should continue by reading industry publications, attending conferences and trade shows and traveling locally and abroad. International travel allows you to experience different cuisines firsthand, perhaps by taking classes in the local cuisine and food culture. In short, graduation from culinary school is just the beginning of your education. Your specific occupation may change or evolve depending on personal desires and abilities, family needs and unexpected opportunities. Wherever you work you must continue learning and developing your skills. A true professional never stops learning.

QUESTIONS FOR DISCUSSION 1 summarize the contributions that chefs Carême and escoffier made to advance the culinary

arts during the 19th century. 2 Discuss two recent culinary movements and their impact on the way food is served in

restaurants today. 3 list and explain three technological advances affecting food preparation. 4 How can a food service operation address customer concerns about where their food was

grown or raised and participate in the sustainability movement? 5 Discuss the societal changes that have contributed to diversification in the modern food

service industry. 6 Describe the kitchen brigade system. What is its significance in today’s professional kitchens? 7 What are the roles of a chef, sous-chef and line cook in a modern kitchen? 8 Describe the key attributes of a culinary professional and things you can do to develop the

skills, taste and judgment required in your chosen career. 9 list and explain the benefits that you can enjoy by belonging to a professional culinary

organization. 10 Why do professional culinary organizations ask their members to adhere to a code of ethics? 11 The James Beard foundation recognizes and honors outstanding american chefs each year.

Use outside resources to learn who James Beard was. Which chefs are currently considered some of the most outstanding in the United states? Why?

Food Safety and Sanitation

2

17

After studying this chapter, you will be able to: 2.1 explain the importance of sanitation in the

food service industry

2.2 identify direct biological contaminants that

cause food-borne illnesses

2.3 identify direct chemical contaminants

and ways to prevent direct chemical contamination when handling foods

2.4 identify physical contaminants and ways to

prevent direct physical contamination when handling foods

2.5 list and follow the proper procedures to

prevent cross-contamination and foodborne illnesses when handling foods

T

he U.S. Centers for disease Control and Prevention (CdC) identifies more than 250 diseases that can be transmitted through food. Many can cause serious illness; some are even deadly. Providing consumers with safe food is the food handler’s most important responsibility. Unfortunately food handlers are also the primary cause of food-related illnesses. Understanding what causes food-borne illnesses and what can be done to prevent them will help you be better able to protect your customers. This chapter is not meant to be a complete discussion about food safety and sanitation in food service operations. its primary goal is to alert you to practices that can result in food-borne illnesses. Federal, state, county and municipal health, building and other codes are designed in part to ensure that food is handled in a safe manner and that the workplace itself is also safe. Chefs should consult their local health department for information and guidance and always be conscious of what they can do to create and maintain a safe product as well as a safe environment for their customers, their fellow employees and themselves.

2.6 explain and follow a HACCP system 2.7 explain the difference between food

allergies and intolerances and identify the nine foods most likely to trigger hypersensitivity

2.8 list guidelines for protecting guests who

have food hypersensitivities

2.9 create and maintain a safe and sanitary

work environment

microorganisms single-celled organisms and tiny plants and animals that can be seen only through a microscope biological hazard a danger to the safety of food caused by disease-causing microorganisms such as bacteria, molds, yeasts, viruses or fungi chemical hazard a danger to the safety of food caused by chemical substances, especially cleaning agents, pesticides or toxic metals physical hazard a danger to the safety of food caused by particles such as glass chips, metal shavings, bits of wood or other foreign matter

18

SANITATION Every food service business must take sanitation seriously. Sanitation refers to the creation and maintenance of conditions that will prevent any contamination that might lead to a food-borne illness. It involves removing or reducing harmful substances to a level that is deemed safe by government health agencies. Proper sanitation requires following time and temperature standards, avoiding cross-contamination and consistently following established safe food-handling protocols. Failure to do so can lead to a variety of injuries or illnesses. Even as few as two or three sick customers can be enough to cause major monetary loss, negative media attention, lawsuits and irreparable damage to a business’s reputation. Local government health inspectors are responsible for issuing licenses and conducting periodic inspections to ensure that regulations are being followed. It is your responsibility as a cook or food server to make sure that sanitation techniques are being followed properly to avoid contamination on behalf of every customer, every day. Contamination refers to the presence, generally unintended, of harmful organisms or substances, called contaminants. Contaminants can be biological, chemical or physical. When consumed in sufficient quantities, food-borne contaminants can cause illness or injury, long-lasting disease or even death. Contamination occurs in two ways: direct contamination and cross-contamination. Direct contamination is the contamination of raw foods or the plants or animals from which they come, in their natural settings or habitats. Chemical and biological contaminants, such as pesticides, bacteria and fungi, are present in the air, soil and water. This means that foods can be easily contaminated by their general exposure to the environment. For example, grains can be contaminated by soil fumigants in the field, or shellfish can become contaminated by ingesting toxic marine algae. Chemicals and microorganisms generally cannot move on their own, however. Contaminants need to be transported, a process known as cross-contamination. The major cause of cross-contamination is people. Food handlers can transfer biological, chemical and physical contaminants to food while processing, preparing, cooking or serving. Sanitation is the correction of problems caused by direct contamination and the prevention of problems caused by cross-contamination during processing and service.

DIRECT BIOLOGICAL CONTAMINANTS Several microorganisms, primarily bacteria, parasites, viruses and fungi, are biological hazards, contaminants that can cause biologically based food-borne illnesses. By understanding how these organisms live and reproduce, you can better understand how to protect food from them.

F O O d S A F E T y A n d S A n i TAT i O n

19

Bacteria Bacteria, which are single-celled microorganisms, are the leading cause of food-borne illnesses. Figure 2.1 shows the shapes of different bacteria. Some bacteria are beneficial, such as those that aid in digesting food or decomposing garbage. Certain beneficial bacteria are used to make cheese, yogurt and sauerkraut. Other bacteria spoil food without rendering it unfit for human consumption. These bacteria, called putrefactives, are not a sanitation concern. (Indeed, in some cultures, they are not even a culinary concern. Cultures differ on what constitutes “bad” meat, for example. In some cultures for instance, game is sometimes hung for a time to allow bacteria to grow.) The bacteria that are dangerous when consumed by humans are pathogens. These bacteria must be destroyed or controlled in a food service operation. Most bacteria reproduce by binary fission: Their genetic material is first duplicated, and the nucleus then splits, each new nucleus taking some of the cellular material with it, as shown in Figure  2.2. Under favorable conditions each bacterium can divide every 15–30 minutes. Within 12 hours one bacterium can become a colony of 72 billion bacteria, more than enough to cause serious illness. In instances when the bacterial count is high enough, a person may get sick within as little as 4 hours. Most pathogenic bacteria will be destroyed by heat or other unfavorable conditions. Some rod-shaped bacteria are capable of forming spores, however. Spores are thick-walled structures used as protection against a hostile environment. The bacteria essentially hibernate within their spores, where the bacteria can survive extreme conditions so that heating or sanitizing the cooking environment may not destroy them. When conditions become favorable, the bacteria return to a viable state. Common soil frequently contains bacterial spores. This is one reason why it is essential to wash fruit and produce thoroughly before use.

pathogens any organism that causes disease; usually refers to bacteria; undetectable by smell, sight or taste, pathogens are responsible for as many as 95 percent of all food-borne illnesses

Bacterial Intoxications and Infections Pathogenic bacteria can cause illnesses in humans in one of three ways: by intoxication, infection or toxin-mediated infection. (Consult Appendix III, “Top Causes of Food-Borne Illness,” for a list of the more common food-borne illnesses and their characteristics.) Botulism is a well-known example of an intoxication. Certain bacteria produce toxins as by-products of their life processes. People cannot smell, see or taste toxins. Ingesting these toxin-producing bacteria by themselves does not cause illness. But the toxins the bacteria produce can poison the consumer. Proper food-handling techniques

Figure 2.1 Bacteria can be classified by shape: Rods are short, tubular structures; cocci are discs, some of which form clusters; and spirilla are corkscrews.

Bacteria reproduce by dividing

20 minutes Single cells are microscopic

40 minutes

1 hour

1 hour, 20 minutes

10–12 hours

Large colonies may be visible to the naked eye

Figure 2.2 One bacterium divides into two; the two bacteria each divide, creating four; four become 16 and so on. it takes a very short time for one bacterium to produce millions more.

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CHAPTER T WO

are critical to preventing an intoxication because, even if a food is cooked to a sufficiently high temperature to kill all bacteria present, the toxins they leave behind are usually not destroyed. The second type of bacterial illness is an infection. Salmonella is a well-known example. An infection occurs when live pathogenic bacteria (infectants) are ingested. The bacteria then live in the consumer’s intestinal tract. It is the living bacteria, not their waste products, that cause an illness. Infectants must be alive when eaten for them to do any harm. Fortunately these bacteria can be destroyed by cooking foods at sufficiently high temperatures, such as 165°F (74°C) or higher. The third type of bacterial illness, which has characteristics of both an intoxication and an infection, is a toxin-mediated infection. Examples are Clostridium perfringens and Escherichia coli O157:H7 (STEC). When these living organisms are ingested, they establish colonies in human or animal intestinal tracts, where they then produce toxins. These bacteria are particularly dangerous for young children, older adults and people with weakened immune systems.

Preventing Bacterial Intoxications and Infections

FAT TOM

All bacteria need certain conditions in order to complete their life cycle. Like humans and other living things, they need food, a comfortable temperature, moisture, the proper pH, the proper atmosphere and time. The best way to prevent bacterial intoxications and infections is to attack the conditions that bacteria need to survive and multiply. The following six conditions, which we will discuss in some detail in this section, affect the growth of bacteria:

The words FAT TOM can be used to help you remember the six conditions that affect bacterial growth, as follows: Food Acidity

▪

Time

▪

Temperature

▪

Oxygen

▪ ▪

Moisture (water activity)

▪

pH a measurement of the acid or alkali content of a solution, expressed on a scale of 0–14.0. A pH of 7.0 is considered neutral or balanced. The lower the pH value, the more acidic the substance. The higher the pH value, the more alkaline the substance.

Stationary phase Number of bacteria cells

Log phase

Decline phase

Lag phase

0

5 Time (hours)

Figure 2.3 Bacterial growth curve.

10

Food Acidity Time Temperature Oxygen Moisture

Food Bacteria need food for energy and growth and thrive on foods that are referred to as time and temperature controlled for safety (TCS) foods. These foods are generally high in protein and include animal-based products, cooked grains and some raw and cooked vegetables. These foods, and items containing these foods, must be handled with great care. Acidity Bacteria thrive in an environment where the acidity and alkalinity are in balance. pH is a measurement of the acid or alkali content of a solution, expressed on a scale of 0–14.0. A pH of 7.0 is considered neutral or balanced. The lower the pH value, the more acidic the substance. The higher the pH value, the more alkaline the substance. Although they can survive in a wider range, bacteria prefer a neutral environment with a pH of 6.6–7.5. Growth is usually halted if the pH is 4.6 or less. Acidic foods such as lemon juice, tomatoes and vinegar, which have lower pH values, create an unfavorable environment for bacteria. Simply adding an acidic ingredient to foods should not, however, be relied upon to destroy bacteria or preserve foods. The amount of acidity appropriate for flavoring is not sufficient to ensure the destruction of bacteria. Time Bacterial growth takes place in four phases. (See Figure 2.3.) When bacteria are moved from one place to another, they require time to adjust to new conditions. This resting period, during which very little growth occurs, is known as the lag phase and may last from 1 to 4 hours. The lag phase is followed by the log phase, a period of accelerated growth, and then by the stationary phase, which lasts until the bacteria begin to crowd

F O O d S A F E T y A n d S A n i TAT i O n

within their colony, creating competition for food, space and moisture. This crowding signals the beginning of the decline or negative-growth phase, during which bacteria die at an accelerated rate. Because of the lag phase, foods can be in the temperature danger zone for very short periods during preparation before bacterial growth increases to an unacceptable level. Exposure to the temperature danger zone is cumulative, however, and should not exceed 4 hours total. The less time food is in the temperature danger zone, the less opportunity bacteria have to multiply. Temperature Temperature is the most important factor in the pathogenic bacteria’s environment because it is the factor that food service workers can most easily control. High temperatures destroy most microorganisms. Refrigeration slows but does not stop growth, and neither refrigeration nor freezing destroys bacteria. Most bacteria that cause food-borne illnesses multiply rapidly at temperatures between 70°F and 125°F (21°C and 52°C). Therefore the broad range of temperatures between 41°F and 135°F (5°C and 57°C) is referred to as the temperature danger zone. (See Figure 2.4.) To control the growth of any bacteria that may be present, it is important to maintain the internal temperature of food at 135°F (57°C) or above or 41°F (5°C) or below. Keeping foods out of the temperature danger zone reduces the bacteria’s ability to thrive and reproduce. Simply stated: Keep hot foods hot and cold foods cold. Time and temperature controlled for safety (TCS) foods should be heated or cooled quickly so that they are within the temperature danger zone as briefly as possible. This is known as the time-and-temperature principle. Keep hot foods hot. The high internal temperatures reached during proper cooking kill most of the bacteria that can cause food-borne illnesses. Foods must be cooked to specific internal temperatures and held there for the time specified in Table 2.1. When foods are reheated, the internal temperature should quickly reach or exceed 165°F (74°C) to kill any bacteria that may have grown during storage. Once properly heated, hot foods must be held at temperatures of 135°F (57°C) or higher. (Holding food at 140°F/60°C offers an additional safeguard.) Foods that are to be displayed or served hot must be heated rapidly to reduce the time within the temperature danger zone. To facilitate this, when heating or reheating foods: ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪ ▪

Heat small quantities at a time. Stir frequently. Heat foods as close to service time as possible. Use preheated ingredients whenever possible to prepare hot foods. Never use a steam table for heating or reheating foods. Bring reheated food to an appropriate internal temperature (at least 165°F/74°C) before placing it in the steam table for holding.

Keep cold foods cold. Improperly cooled foods are a leading cause of the spread of foodborne illness. Foods that are to be displayed, stored or served cold must be cooled rapidly. Once properly chilled, cold foods must be held at temperatures of 41°F (5°C) or lower. When cooling foods: ▪

▪ ▪ ▪

Spread food into clean, shallow, metal containers, which change temperature quickly. Place container over ice and stir periodically during cooling to lower the temperature to 70°F (21°C) within 2 hours. Then cool to 41°F (5°C) or below within 4 additional hours. Use frozen ice paddles designed to chill food to help quickly cool soup, stock and liquid foods. Refrigerate semisolid foods at 41°F (5°C) or below in clean metal containers that are less than 2 inches deep. (Increased surface area decreases cooling time.) Avoid crowding the refrigerator; allow air to circulate around foods.

21

Safety Alert The Temperature Danger Zone The temperature danger zone is a broad range of temperatures in which most of the bacteria that cause foodborne illnesses multiply rapidly. The 2022 Food Code of the U.S. Food and drug Administration (FdA), indicates that the temperature danger zone begins at 41°F (5°C) and ends at 135°F (57°C). Regulations in some localities and with some organizations may vary. This text uses the range recommended by the FdA.

Boiling point

212°F (100°C)

Hot food zone

165°F (74°C) 135°F (57°C)

Temperature danger zone

Bacteria grow quickly

Cold food zone

41°F (5°C) 32°F (0°C)

Frozen food zone

0°F (–18°C)

Figure 2.4 The temperature danger zone.

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CHAPTER T WO

R E C OM M E N DE D INTERN AL C O O KIN G TEMPERATURES

TABLE 2.1

PRODUCT

TEMPERATURE

Beef, pork, veal or lamb steaks or chops

Cook to 145°F/63°C for 15 seconds

Beef, pork, veal or lamb, roasts

Cook to 145°F/63°C for 4 minutes

Egg dishes

Cook to 155°F/68°C for 17 seconds; if the dish is uncooked, use only pasteurized eggs

Eggs

Cook until the yolk and white are firm or cook to 145°F/63°C for 15 seconds if prepared for a customer’s immediate consumption

Fish and shellfish

Cook to 145°F/63°C for 15 seconds; shells should open

Game, commercial

Cook to 145°F/63°C for 15 seconds

Ground beef, veal, pork, lamb or wild game

Cook to 155°F/68°C for 17 seconds

Ham, bacon

Cook to 155°F/68°C for 17 seconds

Plant foods such as fruits, grains and rice, legumes and vegetables for immediate consumption and hot holding

Cook to 135°F/57°C

Poultry or wild game, whole or ground

Cook to 165°F/74°C for