New Zealand 9781588430663, 9781901522365

Citation preview

LANDM RK VISITORS GUIDE

New Zealand Grant Bourne & Sabine Kšr ner-Bourne Published by Landmark Publishing Ltd Waterloo House, 12 Compton, Ashbourne Derbyshire, England DE6 1DA Published in the USA by Hunter Publishing Inc 130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 Grant Bourne and his wife Sabine met on a Kibbutz way back in 1982. Their shared passion for travel has since taken them through much of Europe, Asia, Africa and the Near East. Born and brought up in New Zealand and now living in Germany's lovely Rhine Valley, Grant frequently returns home for lengthy visits. He and his wife have toured the two main islands from north to south and have notched up many hundreds of kilometres on foot through the country's magnificent national parks. Grant and Sabine have written travel guides and articles in both English and German. They have also written a walking guide to the Bavarian Alps. On their new website, reader's can inform themselves about the latest developments affecting travel in New Zealand and much else besides: http://home.t-online.de/home/Koerner-Bourne/kiwipage.htm

Acknowledgments The authors are most grateful to the various tourist information centres for their generous help. We would also like to extend special thanks to Bernard and Jane, Steve and Cas, and Tim Whittaker; and very special thanks to Murray Bourne.

2

NEW ZEALAND

Auckland

1

Hamilton

3 4

TASMAN SEA 7

Wellington Blenhiem

Napier

5 6

8 CHATHAM ISLANDS

Christchurch

(556 miles/895km east of Christchurch)

11

9 Dunedin Invercargill

10

NEW ZEALAND

6 Wanganui, The Wairarapa

Page 147

& Wellington Wellington Town Map 7 Marlborough & Nelson

Page 152

Regional Maps 1 Auckland & Hauraki Gulf Auckland Town Map

Page 34

2 Northland

Page 58 8 The West Coast (Westland) Page 190

Page 37

9 Southern Lakes & Fiordland Page 210

3 Coromandel, Waikato

& King County 4 The Volcanic Heartland

Page 167

Page 78 10

The Deep South & Otago

Page 103 11 Canterbury

5 East Cape & Hawke's Bay Page 127

Christchurch Town Map

Page 235 Page 266 Page 273

LANDM RK VISITORS GUIDE

New Zealand Grant Bourne & Sabine Kšr ner-Bourne

Contents INTRODUCTION

6

History Arts, Culture & Entertainment Pre-European Maori history Flora and fauna Food and drink Geography and Geology National Parks Politics and Economy Population

7

AUCKLAND & HAURAKI GULF Auckland City Tour Auckland Suburbs Hauraki Gulf Maritime Park

NORTHLAND Route 1: Northland Auckland to the Bay of Islands The Bay of Islands The Bay of Islands to Cape Reinga Cape Reinga

COROMANDEL, WAIKATO & KING COUNTRY

11 14 20 24 25 26 26 32

34 35 41 45

THE VOLCANIC HEARTLAND

98

Route 4: From the Bay of Plenty to the Volcanic Plateau 99 Tauranga 99 Whakatane & White Island 99 Rotorua 100 Rotorua to Taupo 105 Lake Taupo 105 Tongariro NP 108 Taihape and Mangaweka 109 Route 5: Taranaki 110 New Plymouth 112 Egmont NP 113 On to Wanganui 115

EAST CAPE & HAWKEÕS BAY 126

64 68

Route 6: The East Cape Road 126 Opotiki 127 Gisbourne 129 Te Urewera NP 132 Route 7: HawkeÕs Bay 133 Napier 133 Hastings 136 Norsewood 137

78

WANGANUI, THE WAIRARAPA & WELLINGTON 143

58 59 59 61

Route 2: Around the Coromandel Peninsula 80 Thames 80 Coromandel 81 North of Coromandel 82 Coromandel to Whitianga 83 Whitianga to Paeroa 85 Route 3: Through the Waikato & King Country 86 Hamilton 86 Raglan to Kawhia 88 Te Kuiti 88

Route 8: From Wanganui to Wellington 143 Whanganui River Road 145 Whanganui NP 146 The Wairarapa 148 Wellington 151 Around Wellington 155

MARLBOROUGH & NELSON 166 Route 9: Picton to St Arnaud Picton Blenheim

167 167 168

Previous page: View of Mt Egmont from Lake Mangamahoe Domain

(NP = National Park)

Havelock Nelson Stoke Motueka Abel Tasman NP Takaka Collingwood Kahurangi NP Nelson Lakes NP Route 9A: West Coast via Lewis Pass Kaikoura Hanmer Springs

169 170 170 170 172 173 173 174 174 177 177 179

THE WEST COAST (WESTLAND) 190 Route 10: The West Coast Highway Westport Around Karamea Paparoa NP Greymouth Hokitika Westland NP Haast region

191 191 192 193 194 196 197 201

SOUTHERN LAKES & FIORDLAND 210 Route 11: Wanaka to Manapouri 212 Mount Aspiring NP 212 Routes to Queenstown 213 Queenstown 216 Fiordland NP 220 Around Manapouri 225

THE DEEP SOUTH & OTAGO 234 Route 12: The Southern Scenic Route to Dunedin 236 Invercargill 236 Bluff 236 Stewart Island 237 The Catlins 240 Dunedin 243

Otago Peninsula 245 Route 13: Oamaru and the Waitaki Valley 249 The Coast Section 249 Inland vistas 251 Route 13A: The Goldfields Route (Pigroot) to Lindis Pass & Omarama 252 Ranfurly 252 Alexandra 253 The Lindis Pass 254

CANTERBURY

262

Route 14: Mount Cook to Christchurch 262 Mount Cook NP 263 Twizel 264 Lake Tekapo 265 Timaru 268 ArthurÕs Pass NP 269 Christchurch 269 The City Centre 272 Banks Peninsula 274 The Chatham Islands 277

FACTFILE

288

INDEX

316

FEATURE BOXES Rugby Union The Kauri The Maori Hangi Swimming with Dolphins New Zealand Wine Art Deco Asbestos Cottage Whale Watch The Kea The Sandfly Flightless Birds

22 66 104 111 130 135 171 178 195 199 246

INTRODUCTION

L

uxuriant rainforests, spectacular fiords, volcanoes, snow-capped mountains and long empty beaches of golden sand are just some of the ingredients that go to make New Zealand one of the most breathtakingly beautiful places in the world. No other country can boast such a variety of landscapes within such easy reach of one another. In some places the ski slopes and the seaside may be separated by no more than an hourÕs drive.

New Zealand is a land that offers lovers of the great outdoors all they could wish for. Activities include jet boating, white water rafting, kayaking, tramping and skiing. You can watch whales and swim with dolphins at Kaikoura or fish for a trout dinner at Taupo. Apart from the enjoyment of sea, sun and sand, another attraction for many visitors is the fascinating culture of the countryÕs first inhabitants, the Maori. Strongholds of Maori culture are the East Cape 6

and Northland but it is probably Rotorua that provides the best introduction to the traditional Maori way of life. Excellent museums in places like Wanganui, Auckland and Wellington offer further insight into the history of this Polynesian people. But what, perhaps, makes a holiday in New Zealand something really special is simply the friendliness and hospitality of the Kiwis (colloquial name for all New Zealanders) themselves.

Above: Picton waterfront

History Arrival of the Maori Around 800 AD, centuries before Columbus discovered America, Polynesian adventurers boarded large double-hulled canoes and sailed across the vastness of the Pacific Ocean to find a group of isolated islands now known as New Zealand. These ancestors of the modern Maori called their new home Aotearoa and their epic migrations have been romanticised in the legend of the ÔGreat FleetÕ, a colonising expedition that set out from Hawaiki. Here, in the most remote corner of Polynesia, they evolved a flourishing culture, where the art of carving reached heights of

accomplishment hitherto unknown anywhere in the Pacific. The seeds of human history on New ZealandÕs virgin soil were sown; the next great phase of settlement was not to have its beginnings until centuries later when, in the wake of European colonial expansion, the Dutch East India Company sent Abel Janszoon Tasman off in search of new markets and new lands.

European Explorers Tasman sighted the west coast of the South Island in 1642 but was prevented from landing by hostile Maoris who attacked one of the shipÕs boats and killed several of the crew. No doubt discouraged by this bloody encounter, Tasman did not 7

I n t r o d u c t i o n

make another attempt to go ashore and soon left the islands, believing that they might be part of an unknown continent that stretched as far as South America. However, the Dutch showed little interest in his discovery as this wild land did not promise any great treasures, and over a hundred years were to pass before Europeans were again to visit these distant shores. Captain James CookÕs first voyage into the South Pacific was a scientific expedition that had, among other things, the task of finding out whether or not the Terra Australis Incognita (Southern Continent) really existed. In 1769 CookÕs ship the Endeavour sailed within sight of the east coast of New Zealand, which was at that time still known by the Dutch name of Nieuw Zeeland. During the next six months he circumnavigated both main islands and charted the coastline. Cook was, after a few initial skirmishes, able to establish friendly relations with the Maori and apart from gathering valuable information on the geography, as well as the flora and fauna of the islands, his voyage proved beyond doubt that New Zealand was not the fabled Southern Continent. CookÕs voyages (he visited New Zealand again in 1772 and 1776), along with those of later explorers like the Frenchmen Jean de Surville (1769, two months after Cook) and Marion du Fresne (1772), stimulated a great deal of interest in the South Pacific. For New Zealand, centuries of isolation from the rest of the world were at an end; the phase of European colonisation was no longer far away. 8

British Colonisation The first arrivals were sealers who were followed by whalers, traders and adventurers. In 1814 the Reverend Samuel Marsden arrived in the Bay of Islands to establish t he countryÕs first mission. Other mis sionaries soon followed but, in the beginning, the Maoris saw Christianity less as a means of salvation than as a way to acquire European skills and goods. The most valued item of trade among the Maori was the gun and it was not long before it was put to devastating effect in inter-tribal conflicts. Up until 1840 the settlement of New Zealand had been sporadic and mainly limited to the Bay of Islands but that was to change, when in 1837, Edward Gibbon Wakefield formed the New Zealand Association (it later became the New Zealand Company) in England. This company was the main driving force behind the organised colonisation of New Zealand in the first half of the nineteenth century. A condition of lawlessness prevailed in the Bay of IslandÕs settlement prior to 1840. Demands grew louder, both in New Zealand and at home, that Britain should annex the country and thus make it subject to British law. With enough problems in the colonies it already had, Britain was initially reluctant to take the step of making New Zealand officially a part of the British Empire. However growing pressure and fears that France might have its own plans for colonisation made Britain finally act. Captain William Hobson was sent to New Zealand as the Governor-designate and the Treaty of Waitangi , under which the

I n t r o d u c t i o n

The Treaty of Waitangi The first boatload of immigrants organised by WakefieldÕs company arrived shortly after the signing of the treaty and with them came a growing European hunger for land. Already by 1858 there were more Europeans in the country than there were Maori. In the Treaty of Waitangi it was stated that only the government could buy Maori land. This was meant to protect the Maori from being swindled by speculators. However speculation took place just the same and even the government was guilty of paying ridiculously low prices for land which was then sometimes resold to settlers for twenty times the original purchase price. On top of all this, the Maori considered that, even if they had sold the land, they had not sold the resources that grew upon it. Armed conflict between the races was quickly becoming inevitable. In 1860 a shady land deal in Taranaki caused the outbreak of fighting between government troops and local Maori. This was the beginning of the New Zealand Land Wars, a series of localised conflicts which flared up in various parts of the North Island over the next twelve years. But in the end the Maori, who were often divided among themselves, could not hope to prevail against the vast resources of the British Empire. Those tribes that fought against the Crown lost not only the war, but also much of their land which was confiscated by the government.

Maori accepted British sovereignty over the country, was signed at the Bay of Islands on February 6, 1840.

An Agricultural Nation In the South Island the problems between Maori and Pakeha (Maori name for white settlers) never developed to the point of serious warfare. By the middle of the nineteenth century, sheep farming was already established here as an important part of the economy. The discovery of gold in Otago and Westland in the 1860Õs, gave an added boost to the South IslandÕs prosperity. In the 1870Õs the colonial governmentÕs policy of overseas borrowing to finance the building of roads and

railways, sparked off an economic boom which also brought a measure of prosperity to the war-torn North Island. Unfortunately the good times soon came to an end. In 1878 the prices for wool and grain fell and the government was left wondering how it was going to pay its massive overseas debts. Before long the country was in the depths of recession, and thousands of unemployed workers left the colony to seek new opportunities in America and Australia.

Social welfare The colonyÕs first long depression had, however, its positive side: it provided the impetus for a series of wide, reaching social reforms that 9

I n t r o d u c t i o n

Above: Southern Alps

made New Zealand one of the pioneers of the welfare state. They included the introduction of free, compulsory education in 1877 and a small pension for the aged poor in 1898. In 1893 New Zealand became the first country in the world to grant women the vote. In 1882 a possible end to the depression was signalled by the first successful shipment of frozen meat to England. Though it took a few years, this trade eventually developed into a bonanza for New ZealandÕs farming industry. During the early years of the twentieth century, markets for dairy products also expanded and dairy farming soon became as important for the New Zealand economy as the raising of sheep for wool and meat. For the moment the countryÕs problems seemed solved Ñ the time of the prosperous and influential farmer had arrived. 10

The Twentieth Century The Great Depression of the Thirties brought hardship once again, but prosperity returned with the worldwide economic recovery in 1935. In the same year the newly formed Labour Party was swept into power; the earlier reforms were extended and New Zealand now had one of the most comprehensive social welfare systems in the world. From the 1950Õs onwards, however, it was to be the conservative National Party, which had been formed during World War II, that dominated the political stage. In 1947 New Zealand was granted full independence from Great Britain. Again the nation went through a period of economic boom which was to end with BritainÕs joining of the EC in 1973. The loss of the countryÕs main overseas market (the trade barriers erected

I n t r o d u c t i o n

against non-EC countries made it difficult for New Zealand to be competitive) dealt a severe blow to the strongly export-oriented economy. Now many politicians began to perceive the welfare state as a luxury the land could ill afford. Even the liberally-minded Labour Party, who were in power between 1985 and 1990, began to cut back on social legislation and introduced a scheme of privatisation whereby formerly state-owned enterprises were sold to the private sector. After taking over from Labour, the conservative National Party continued with the radical economic reforms. At present a dramatic improvement of the economy suggests they are working. One of the most important trends in modern New Zealand is the Below: Coastal mangrove forest, Coromandel

Above: Milford Sound trip

renaissance of Maori language and culture. The country is becoming increasingly aware of itself as a bi-cultural society which has its cultural roots both in Polynesia and Europe. There is also a growing awareness of the countryÕs role as a Pacific nation and New Zealand is slowly but surely loosening its ties to ÔMother EnglandÕ.

Arts, Culture & Entertainment At least in the cities, New Zealand can boast a lively entertainment and arts scene with regular exhibitions of national and international art in the galleries, theatre, performances of classical music and so on. Auckland and Wellington are probably 11

I n t r o d u c t i o n

the most interesting places as far as cultural activities are concerned, but other main cities like Christchurch and Dunedin also have much to offer. Dunedin, for instance, has a reputation for producing some of the countryÕs best rock bands, though good live music, including jazz, can be heard in pubs and discos all around the country. For details of cultural events, consult one of the free city guides published by the city tourist information offices. The arts and crafts scene also flourishes; potters, carvers, weavers and trinket-makers can be found offering their wares all over the country, from north to south. The work is often of a very high quality and can range from a simple bowl carved from beautiful native wood,

to an original piece of pottery that is more an objet dÕart than a practical utensil. Good places to go shopping for handicrafts include Nelson and Kerikeri .

Literature New ZealandÕs most famous author internationally is probably still Katherine Mansfield (1888-1923). Her short stories The DollÕs House and The Garden Party and other Stories are based on her childhood experiences. The house where she was born can be visited in Wellington. In the period following World War II, it was the writer Frank Sargeson who dominated the literary scene. His many short stories and novels often concerned themselves

Film The history of New Zealand cinema began in the 1890Õs with the production of short documentary films. In 1914 the first feature movie with a New Zealand background was presented to a local audience. However, it was not until the 1970Õs when the New Zealand Film Commission was established to encourage and support local productions, that the industry really got off the ground. Over the last few decades New Zealand films have earned themselves an excellent reputation with overseas audiences. The best known directors in the 1970Õs and Ô80Õs were Roger Donaldson Sleeping Dogs, (1977) and Smash Palace, (1981) and Geoff Murphy Goodbye Pork Pie, (1980). Two directors who have earned international recognition for their more serious art-house films are Vincent Ward Vigil, (1984) and The Navigator, (1988) and Jane Campion. Campion, who was born in New Zealand but now lives and works in Australia, won an Academy Award for her film The Piano, (1993). Also much acclaimed was the film Once Were Warriors (1994), based on a novel by controversial Maori author Alan Duff. Another film that received international praise was Peter JacksonÕsHeavenly Creatures (1994). This movie tells the true story of a murder committed by two schoolgirls in the 1950Õs. Perhaps one of the most original films to come from New Zealand in recent years is the comedy Topless Women Talk About Their Lives (1997), directed by Harry Sinclair.

12

I n t r o d u c t i o n

with the hardships of the Great Depression and were written in a style that captured the vernacular perfectly. Among the writers he influenced was Janet Frame, one of the countryÕs most important contemporary novelists. Her autobiography An Angel at my Table was filmed by Jane Campion. Very popular in the 1960Õs were the back-country novels of Barry Crump (1935-1996). Especially worth reading for its humorous description of the experiences of a professional deer culler is A Good Keen Man (1960). Also worthwhile are Hang on a minute mate (1961) and Scrapwaggon (1965). Another very popular New Zealand born author was Dame Ngaio Marsh (1899-1982). Her detective novels had an international public though, unlike the works of Crump, only a very few had New Zealand settings. Maurice Shadbolt has built a good reputation with his historical novels on New Zealand themes. Among his more recent works are Season of the Jew (1986), MondayÕs Warriors (1990) and The House of Strife (1993). Other writers of note include novelists Ronald Hugh Morrieson and Maurice Gee and the poets James K Baxter and Denis Glover. (Some of the more important Maori writers are mentioned under Maoritanga below).

Maoritanga Though the literature and art forms of European culture are still dominant in New Zealand, the last few decades have nevertheless shown a growing awareness for the achievements of Maoritanga (Maori culture). However the activities

of Maori artists are by no means limited to such traditional crafts as wood carving or weaving, but extend into all fields of modern artistic endeavour. Dame Kiri Te Kanawa is a world famous opera singer and, in the pictorial arts, painters like Gordon Walters and Robyn Kahukiwa have drawn on Maori rather than European sources for their inspiration. The influence of Maoritanga on subject, imagery and meaning is especially notable in the field of literature where Maori or partMaori writers, like Booker Prize winner Keri Hulme ( Bone People ), Patricia Grace ( Potiki ), Witi Ihimaera (The Matriarch ), and poet Hone Tuwhare, have earned themselves recognition both at home but and abroad.

Meeting houses Those with an interest in traditional Maori culture will find Rotorua , as commercialised as it may be, the best and easiest place to study it. Meeting houses are found in many places in the country but are especially common in areas with large Maori communities such as Northland , East Cape and the Auckland area. Visitors should bear in mind however that the marae (strictly speaking, the place in front of a meeting house but the term is often used more loosely to refer to all the buildings around it) is sacred to the Maori and permission must be obtained before entering. In some tourist areas, tours are offered to local marae, thus allowing visitors a unique insight into contemporary Maori culture. Inquire at the tourist offices for details of such visits. 13

Pre-European

A

ccording to one long-accepted interpretation of Maori oral histories, New Zealand was discovered in AD 950 by Kupe, who set out from his island home of Hawaiki. Kupe eventually returned with precise sailing instructions which enabled the navigator Toi to find New Zealand again a few hundred years later. Around 1350 a fleet of eight canoes that has come to be known as the Great Fleet, set out on a final wave of migration. On arriving in New Zealand the migrants separated to settle different parts of their new land. Even to this day the majority of Maori trace their origins to one of the canoes (waka) that came from Hawaiki. Though the above scenario appeared to provide a very neat explanation of Maori origins, the exact dates and other details it offered have since been discredited a s a misinterpretation of original sources by European scholars in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. More recent research has revealed that there probably never was a ÔGreat FleetÕ as described in the European rendition of the legend. In actual fact, none of the Maori canoe traditions ever referred to an organised fleet of canoes, nor did they claim that they arrived in New Zealand at the same time. Current opinion is that it was probably from somewhere in East Polynesia that the ancestors of the Maori began their epic voyages over the Pacific to New Zealand. Referred to in the oral traditions as Hawaiki (the word ÔHawaikiÕ means simply ÔhomelandÕ and does not refer to a specific i sland) their point of origin was possibly Tahiti or the Marquesas. More than 14

Maori history a 1000 years ago the first small groups arrived on New ZealandÕs shores. Why they left their homeland and whether these voyages were by accident or design are still subjects of much debate. Whatever the truth may be, the fact remains that these early Polynesians were remarkable navigators. Many centuries before the great European voyages of exploration, they had already colonised vast areas of Oceania. Finally, in large oceangoing canoes that may have carried up to 100 people, they found their way to New Zealand, the last of the island groups to be settled by this Pacific people.

The Moa-hunters Early Polynesian settlers found New ZealandÕs climate significantly colder than that of their former island homes. The tropical plants they brought with them were difficult to grow, especially in the winter months, therefore agriculture was practiced only on a small scale. In order to supplement their diet they had to resort to fishing and hunting. Though the only animals they brought with them were the dog and rat, the forests abounded with bird-life which provided an important additional source of protein. Of particular importance were the moa, a large flightless bird of which there were several species. This is why the first phase of settlement is often referred to as the moa-hunter period, though the early settlers are also referred to as Archaic Maori. What little is known about the moahunters is based mainly on archaeological evidence. They lived in small unfortified 15

Pre-European villages, usually with coastal locations as it was here that they were able to find the greatest variety of food: fish and water-fowl were taken from the river mouths, while fern roots and birds could be found in the coastal forests. Though they were hunters, there is little evidence to suggest that warfare played a role in their society. Moas were a principle source of food for about 200 years. Though they were found on both main islands, the largest species inhabited the open grasslands of the South Island. This is also where the majority of moa-hunter camp-sites have been discovered. The moa that was most commonly hunted in the South Island was Euryapteryx gravis , a massive, heavily-fleshed bird as tall as a man. In some places they also hunted Dinornis maximus , a moa that could grow to a height of over 9.8 feet (3m). However excessive hunting led to the extinction of the moa, and with the demise of these giant birds came the gradual change from Archaic Maori culture to the culture of the Classic period.

The Classic period The decreasing number of moa and the growing importance of horticulture in the twelfth century, marked a turning point in Maori history. New methods of storing and cultivating crops, of which the kumara (sweet potato) was the most important, meant that the temporary campsites that had characterised moa-hunter culture could be exchanged for more permanent settlements. Housing became more substantial and villages were moved to locations that favoured gardening. By the fourteenth century, cultivable land was a valuable asset that had to be protected. The pa or fortified village heralded a new age of tribal warfare that came to typify Classic Maori society as encountered by Europeans in the eighteenth century. Improved horticultural methods and the permanent settlements this enabled, led to increased prosperity; especially in the north of the North Island where growing conditions were most favourable. This in turn allowed for the further development of art, architecture and religion. In response to changes in the way of life, Maori social organisation also evolved. The largest unit in Classic Maori society was the tribe ( iwi ) which was made up of sub-tribes ( hapu ) consisting of several extended family groups (whanau ). Life was to a large extent of a communal nature, with land being the most important form of property. The members of a hapu were bound together by oral genealogies ( whakapapa ) that enabled them to trace their descent from a common ancestor. Within the hapu and iwi there were also divisions according to social rank. At the top of the ladder were the numerous rangatira (chiefs) who were presided over by the ariki (paramount chief), the head of the tribe. The next class were the tuatua or commoners, and occupying the lowest rung were the taurekareka or slaves who had been caught in battle. 16

Maori history Religion The tohunga were the priests of Maori religion. However there were various grades of tohunga, many of whom were specialists in some art or craft rather than in spiritual matters. The higher grades of tohunga were the scholars of their people; they could communicate with the gods and were trained in healing, magic, astronomy, genealogy and much else besides. Maori religion knew many gods and, like the Greeks, they had a god of war ( Tu ) and a god of the sea ( Tangaroa ). Though it was believed for a time that the Maori worshipped a supreme god named Io, most scholars believe this to have been a later development under the influence of Christianity. A key concept in religious and daily life was (and still is, to an extent) tapu . Tapu was a spiritual force that emanated from the gods and it e xercised a regulating influence on Maori society. Its full meaning is complex but, like our concept of taboo (the anglicized form of tapu), it could mean ÔsacredÕ or ÔforbiddenÕ. Chiefs were considered tapu as was their personal property. To steal such property was therefore a breach of tapu. It was believed that any person foolish enough to do this, or to break any other of the laws of tapu, would eventually become sick and even die if the offence was serious enough. Tapu was also used to protect various natural resources. A forest, for example, was placed under tapu in order to allow bird-life to recover. .

Warfare Other important factors in Maori life were mana (spiritual power, prestige) and utu (revenge). One of the best ways to attain mana was in battle, and utu (along with quarrels over land) was one of the most common reasons for going to war. Utu might be sought for past defeats or anything else which diminished the tribeÕs mana. As a result, warfare played a major role in Maori society. It had its own rituals, songs and dances and from early childhood men were trained in the art of hand-to-hand combat. Though enemies were taken as slaves, some were also eaten. Eating a foe was not only the ultimate insult but also a way of acquiring their mana. When attacked the Maori were able to retire behind the wooden palisades of the pa. These fortified hill-top villages were the Maori equivalent of the medieval fortress or w alled town. Pas varied in size, but sites have been found that covered an area of 100 acres (40.5 hectares) and held up to 5000 people. Though tribal wars were endemic for some 500 years prior to the arrival of Europeans, the Maori were by no means fighting constantly among themselves. War had its seasons (no fighting occurred when the kumara gardens needed attention), and there were often long periods of peace. In the intervals between fighting the Maori were able to tend their fields and indulge in trade. Being a stone-age culture they especially favoured obsidian and above all greenstone (jade) as items of exchange. Found only on the west coast of the South Island, greenstone was coveted for its beauty and 17

Pre-European hardness. Any tool, weapon or ornament made from this stone was a highlyvalued possession. Isolated as they were and working only with tools made of stone or bone, the Maori were nevertheless able to develop one of the most impressive of all Polynesian cultures. Their works of art belong to the outstanding achievements of Oceania in the pre-European period.

Maori Art Though not proved beyond all doubt, it is now generally accepted that the ancestors of the Maori and other Polynesian peoples came from the coastal fringes of Southeast Asia. In a series of migrations over a period of many centuries, these Southeast Asian peoples eventually reached the Pacific region and brought with them cultures which had been influenced by the Chinese. Therefore some experts postulate that the origins of important elements in classical Maori art are to be found in China. This theory is supported by the similarity of the spiral motifs found in Maori art with curvilinear motifs in the art of the late Chou and Han dynasties. Among the oldest known examples of early Maori art are the fifteenth century rock drawings which are mostly found in the South Island. Spiral motifs occur just about everywhere in Maori art but can be seen at their most complicated in the intricate wood carvings at which the Maori excel. Some of the most elaborate of these wood carvings are those decorating the facades of pataka (storehouse) and whare hui (meeting house). Spirals or curvilinear patterns are also prominent in in Maori tattoos. Today the moko (tattoo) is painted on and is usually only seen during official ceremonies or during Maori folklore concerts. Along with the spiral, the most important element of traditional Maori carving is the human form, which can be portrayed in either a highly stylized or fairly realistic fashion. Characteristic of these carved figures or tiki are the large heads, the three-fingered hand and the out-thrust tongue which was an expression of defiance and warded against evil. Perhaps the best known of all Maori ornaments is the hei-tiki . This neck pendant ( hei ÔhangingÕ,tiki , the human form) portrays an embryo-like figure with prominent eyes, tongue and a head that is turned to one side. In Maori tradition, tiki figures symbolise an ancestor or series of ancestors and are still considered by many Maori as sacred. They were, and still are, carved from wood, stone, bone and, most prized of all, greenstone (jade). Cheap plastic tikis are sold in just about every souvenir shop. 18

Maori history Left: Rewa’s village, Kerikeri Below: Northland children doing the Haka Opposite page: Greenstone Hei Tiki Previous pages: detail from the carved entrance gate, Whakarewarewa village, Rotorua

Whare Whakairo The crowning achievement of traditional Maori culture was the whare whakairo (carved meeting house). No other Polynesian culture has ever produced such a magnificently decorated building; intricate carvings covered almost all the wooden surfaces of the facade and interior, the gaps between the carved interior wall posts were filled with woven reed panels known as kotukutuku and painted kowhaiwhai patterns decorated the rafters. But the purpose behind all this was by no means purely decorative; the carvings, and indeed the building as a whole, symbolised the tribal ancestors and were a way of preserving tribal history and legends. A particularly fine example of a whare whakairo is the meeting house at Waitangi, in the Bay of Islands. Song and dance also form an essential part of Maori culture. The action songs that are commonly staged for tourists in places like Rotorua combine, as the name suggests, elements of both. The rhythmic actions in these songs help to convey the meaning of the words. During the famous poi dance, the musical rhythms are complimented by the graceful swinging of a ball attached to a length of string, the poi. In contrast to the poi dance, the haka taparahi is only performed by men. The dance consists of vigorous movements accompanied by a shouted chant and this is the famous haka that is performed by the All Black rugby team before a match. It is not a war dance as many people assume. The true war dance is the peruperu and, though similar to the haka taparahi, it is always performed with weapons Ñ something that would no doubt have given the All Blacks an unfair advantage at the start of a game. 19

I n t r o d u c t i o n

Flora and fauna Flora New ZealandÕs unique flora and fauna evolved in the course of millions of years of isolation. When the first Polynesians arrived they found a land almost entirely covered by evergreen rainforests. The far north of the North Island was dominated by impressive forests of giant kauri, whereas much of the rest of the island was covered by equally impressive podocarp forests. Podocarps like rimu, totara and miro belong to an extremely ancient family of conifers that first appeared around 190 million years ago, when dinosaurs still roamed the earth. In the South Island the southern beech forests dominated, but large areas were also covered by tussock grasslands. Today, native forests cover only around 20 per cent of the total land area. Characteristic of the New Zealand forest or ÔbushÕ, as the locals prefer to call it, are the many varieties of fern. There are, in fact, around 180 different species of fern to be found here; one of the prettiest is the ponga or silver fern, a large tree fern that is found in most New Zealand rainforests. The prettiest of New ZealandÕs flowering trees are the kowhai, with its delicate yellow flowers and the pohutukawa, which flowers bright red around Christmas time. New ZealandÕs only native palm tree is the nikau. It is mainly found in the North Island but there a also significant stands on the South IslandÕs west coast.

20

Environmental It took European settlers little more than a hundred years to cut down and burn vast tracts of native forest in order to win land for settlement and farming. Where green pastures dotted with fluffy white sheep (60 million of them!) now extend as far as the eye can see there were once dense forests filled with the sound of birds. Some of these birds are now either extinct or extremely rare, as they could neither cope with the rapid loss of habitat nor with the introduction of predatory animals (cats, weasels). Today seven species of native bird are listed as endangered. Deer, wild pigs, rabbits and opossums (plant-eating marsupial native to Australia) were also introduced by the early settlers and, in the absence of their natural enemies, they have multiplied to the point where they are pests. The large populations of red deer and opossums, for instance, have had a particularly devastating effect on the native forests. It is estimated that around 70 million opossums chew their way through 21,000 tons of leaves per day! Hunting of these, and other introduced animals, is therefore encouraged.

I n t r o d u c t i o n

Fauna

issues In spite of the sins of the past, there is still much worth protecting in New Zealand and New Zealanders are becoming more and more conscious of the need to save what is left of their unique and often breathtaking natural environment. Large areas of land are protected as national or forest parks and laws have been passed that force developers to consider the ecological aspects of any projects they are planning. Recycling is becoming more commonplace throughout the country and environmentally friendly products are appearing more frequently on supermarket shelves. Unleaded petrol has been available in New Zealand since 1988. New Zealand follows an anti-nuclear policy and refuses to allow nuclearpowered or armed ships into its ports. The government has also protested against nuclear testing by the French in the Pacific. The greenhouse effect and the destruction of the ozone layer in the earthÕs atmosphere are also matters of grave concern. New Zealand is relatively close to Antarctica where ozone depletion is especially dramatic.

New Zealand was originally a land that was virtually devoid of mammals. Except for two species of native bats, the tree tops and forest floors were dominated by birds. In the absence of ground-dwelling predators, flightless birds such as the now extinct giant moa were able to flourish, but the advent of man and the animals he introduced were to prove to be the nemesis of many. Of the flightless birds that still survive, it is New ZealandÕs national bird, the kiwi, that is most wellknown. However the kea, the worldÕs only mountain parrot, comes a close second. It can fly and its clownish behavior has made it very popular with all those who get a chance to see it in the wild. Some of the more common birds that visitors are likely to see when walking through the native bush are the flightless weka, the insect eating fantail and the colourful native pigeon. Among New ZealandÕs rarest birds are the flightless takahe, a flightless parrot known as the kakapo and the kokako, a member of the wattle-bird family which can fly, but only just. Several species of penguins are found along the coasts of both main islands. There are no snakes in New Zealand but the reptiles are represented by about 30 species of lizard and the remarkable Tuatara ( Sphenodon punctatus ). Though it looks like a lizard, the tuatara is in fact the last survivor of an ancient family of reptiles that reached its peak during the age of the dinosaurs, some 200 million years ago. Once found on the mainland it now only survives on a few scattered off-shore islands. 21

I n t r o d u c t i o n

The All Blacks & Rugby Union Football

E

ver since the first New Zealand rugby team went overseas in 1884, they have struck fear and admiration in the hearts of their opponents. That first team played in Australia, chalking up a spectacular record of eight wins in eight matches. At least as impressive was the team that toured Great Britain in 1924. They did not loose a single match and, appropriately enough, have gone down in the annals of rugby history as Ôthe InvinciblesÕ. In the early days of international rugby, New ZealandÕs national team wore dark-blue jerseys and dark knickerbockers. It was not until 1901 that the playersÕ uniform changed to all black with the famous silver fernleaf adorning the jersey. However the name ÔAll BlacksÕ under which the team has become famous, was not used until the 1905 tour of Great Britain. Though the origins of this sobriquet might appear obvious, it seems that it derives from a printerÕs error. Instead of printing Ôall backsÕ (as a journalist who wanted to describe the speed with which the entire team played intended), an ÔlÕ crept in Ñ and the new name stuck. Over a period of roughly a hundred years, the All BlackÕs have built up a record in international matches that is surpassed only by that of South AfricaÕs Springboks. In the first Rugby World Cup tournament held in 1987 it was the All Black team that emerged as victorious in the final against a French side. However the days when rugby was considered almost a religion in New Zealand are gone. The rise of new, more individualistic forms of sport since the 1970Õs, and a not quite so brilliant record in international competition in recent years, are contributing factors. Nevertheless a test match against such formidable opponents as the Wallabies (Australia), the South African Springboks or the British Lions still attracts fervid national interest, and Rugby Union is still a major winter sport. The object of the game is to get the ball across the other teamÕs goal line, whether by kicking it over the goal posts or by touching it down behind the goal line. Those who want to know more will probably find that the game is best explained by visiting a match or chatting with a local over a beer in the pub. In recent years, sevena-side competition has become very popular. The All Blacks won the Hong Kong Sevens tournament in 1994, 1995 and 1996. In 1998 they lost to reigning champions Fiji in the semi-finals. Fiji eventually won the cup against Samoa.

22

I n t r o d u c t i o n

Top of the page: Coromandel landscape with native toi-toi grass in the foreground Above: Kowhai flowers Right: One of New Zealand's 180 species of fern Below: South Island rainforest

23

I n t r o d u c t i o n

A variety of marine mammals frequent the countryÕs coastal waters and visitors have a good chance of seeing fur seals, dolphins and, in the vicinity of Kaikoura, even whales. All of New ZealandÕs land mammals have been introduced. Red deer, wapiti, chamois and wild pigs are just a few of the introduced animals that may be hunted for sport. New ZealandÕs only poisonous spider is the katipo. It is found on beaches all over the North Island (but mainly on the west coast of the North Island) and as far south as Dunedin. Though its bite can be fatal , relatively few deaths have ever been recorded. Like the North American black widow spider, to which it is related, the katipo is black with a red mark on its back. Only the female is dangerous and as, the spiders are shy, it is unlikely that you will have any unpleasant encounters.

Food and drink In recent years the quality and variety of restaurants in the larger towns and cities has improved greatly. Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch have a particularly cosmopolitan range of restaurants: Italian, Indian, Mexican, Thai and Chinese are just a few of the international cuisines to choose from. However, in the smaller settlements the basic sausage and chips establishments, where the price is right but the ambience non-existent, are still quite common.

Food The traditional take-away foods are fish and chips (French fries) and meat pies. Meat pies are sold in 24

dairies (small corner shops which sell milk, bread and a little bit of everything else) and also in some pubs and tearooms. Chinese takeaways are also very popular and can be great value for money. American fast food chains such as McDonaldÕs and Kentucky Fried Chicken are found in many of the larger towns and cities. New Zealand restaurant chains include Georgie Pie which specialises in filled pastries, and Death by Chocolate where customers can treat themselves to delicious desserts. Some excellent seafood is available in New Zealand and it is worth trying such local delicacies as whitebait, oysters, paua (abalone) and crayfish (lobster). Among the tastiest fish caught in New Zealand coastal waters are snapper, tarakihi and a deep-sea fish known as orange roughy. Not a seafood but a New Zealand classic is roast lamb with mint sauce. Those who are catering for themselves will find the shops well-stocked with a wide variety of fresh foods. Fruit and vegetables are quite cheap during the summer and invariably of excellent quality. Try the kumara, a delicious variety of sweet potato that many Kiwis like to serve with their roast meals. The large supermarket chains such as New World, Pak Ôn Save and Write Price are of course the cheapest places to go shopping.

Drink A strong cup of tea in the morning and a cold beer after work is still a fairly accurate summary of the drinking habits of most New Zealanders. Though there used to be a

I n t r o d u c t i o n

lot of private breweries, almost all the local beer is now brewed by just two companies. Among the more popular brands are DB and Lion, but it is worth seeking out such famous local brews as Black Mac (a dark beer) and Pink Elephant, both of which come from the Nelson-Marlborough area. Places where beer is brewed and consumed on the premises (often referred to as boutique breweries) include the Purangi Winery near Whitianga on the Coromandel, Shakespeare Tavern & Brewery in Auckland and The Loaded Hog in both Auckland and Christchurch. Ask the locals for other tips. Wine consumption is growing in New Zealand and some of the countryÕs white wines rank with the best in the world. Good places to go wine tasting include the Blenheim region in the South Island and the HawkeÕs Bayand Gisborne regions in the North Island. Common abbreviation used throughout this book: BYO Ñ Bring Your Own. (See FactFile under Restaurants).

A worthwhile investment for all those who like to conclude an evening with a good glass of wine and an appetising meal is Michael GuyÕs Eating Out Guide , which is updated annually. It is available in local bookshops.

Geography and Geology New Zealand is located in the South Pacific, approximately 1,243 miles (2,000km) to the south-east of

Australia from which it is separated by the Tasman Sea. Stretching 994 miles (1,600km) from north to south, New Zealand consists of two main islands (North Island and South Island) and a number of smaller islands, the largest of which is Stewart Island at the southern end of the South Island. The countryÕs total land area exceeds that of Great Britain and is only slightly less than that of Colorado in the USA. Together the North and South Islands have nearly 4,350 miles (7,000km) of coastline.

Earthquakes and volcanoes According to the theory of plate tectonics, the earthÕs surface is divided up into a number of separate plates which are constantly moving. New Zealand lies in a region where the Pacific plate collides with the Indo-Australian plate. The tremendous pressures that are built up in this collision zone are released in the form of sometimes violent seismic and volcanic activity. This explains New ZealandÕs susceptibility to earthquakes and the impressive volcanoes and geothermal activity which visitors can see in the area of Rotorua and Tongariro National Park.

Mountains, lakes and glaciers The colliding tectonic plates are also responsible for the formation of the South IslandÕs most distinctive geographical feature, the Southern Alps or Main Divide Ñ New ZealandÕs highest range of mountains. The Southern Alps extend along virtually the entire length of 25

I n t r o d u c t i o n

the South Island and are continuing 1 /2 inch to rise at the rate of about (10mm) per year. The hills and mountain ranges that extend through the North Island from Wellington to East Cape are also a part of this mountain-building process, but the North IslandÕs highest mountain, Mt. Ruapehu , was formed by volcanic activity. During the Ice Ages much of the country was covered by a thick mantle of snow and ice. Relics of those times are most clearly evident in the South Island. They include the beautiful lakes near Queenstown and the magnificent fiords of Fiordland National Park which were, like the lakes, gouged out by vast rivers of ice. Among the most well-known of the glaciers that still exist in the South Island are Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers on the West Coast and the mighty Tasman Glacier , which is New ZealandÕs largest.

National Parks New ZealandÕs first national park was created in 1887 and at present there are thirteen, each of which is discussed in the main text. The central purpose of these parks is to preserve New ZealandÕs remaining wilderness areas in their natural state, but public access is allowed and encouraged in so far as it is consistent with the aims of preservation. New ZealandÕs nineteen forest parks offer a lesser degree of protection for some of the countryÕs most beautiful forest and mountain scenery. As is the case with the national parks they are open to the public for recreational purposes, but a certain amount of selective logging 26

for native timbers and other strictlycontrolled commercial activities, is also allowed. Apart from the national and forest parks, there are also three maritime (two on the North Island, one on the South Island) and two marine parks (both on the North Island) and a variety of other, generally much smaller, scenic reserves. The maritime and forest parks and above all the national parks, are a major attraction for outdoor enthusiasts from all over the world. Most of the parks offer a well-marked network of hiking trails and provide accommodation in the form of simple huts. A visit to one of these parks is a must for all those who want to appreciate New ZealandÕs natural beauty in its most untouched form. Common abbreviation used throughout this book: DOC Ñ Department of Conservation.

Politics and Economy Politics New Zealand is a constitutional monarchy with Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain as head of state. Her representative in New Zealand is the Governor-General who is appointed on the recommendation of the New Zealand government for a five year period. However, the governor-generalÕs functions are only ceremonial and the real power lies in the hands of the prime minister and a cabinet of government ministers.

I n t r o d u c t i o n

Above: At Cape Reinga the Pacific Ocean meets the Tasman Sea Left: Bungy Jumping, Kawarau Suspension Bridge, Queenstown Below: Mount Ngauruhoe has, like Mount Egmont, a nearly perfect volcanic cone

27

I n t r o d u c t i o n

The two main political parties are National (conservative) and Labour. Among the more significant of the smaller parties are New Zealand First and the Alliance, a five-party coalition whose principal members are the Greens and a Labour splinter group known as New Labour. Elections take place every three years and all those who are over 18 years of age are eligible to vote. New ZealandÕs government is modelled on the British parliamentary system, but in New Zealand the upper house was abolished in 1950.

All legislation is now passed through the House of Representatives (formerly the lower house of parliament) which usually consists of 120 members. Another important component of the governmental system is an independent judiciary. Like Great Britain, New Zealand has no written constitution. Prior to 1996, seats in the House of Representatives were allocated on a simple majority of the vote basis. With the advent of a new voting system in 1996, seats are now divided according to the principle of proportional

New ZealandÕs MMP System Growing dissatisfaction with what had been in effect a twoparty system of government, greatly increased the desire for electoral reform. In the 1993 elections the question of proportional representation was put to the vote and the public decided overwhelmingly in its favour. The 1996 elections were held using a limited form of proportional representation (known as MMP or Mixed Member Proportional) based on the electoral system in Germany. Space precludes a detailed description of this system in which, as opposed to the former model, every citizen has two votes (an indirect Party Vote and a direct Electorate Vote for the candidate in your electorate). Suffice it to say that the system combines constituency (the old First Past the Post system) with proportional representation and is designed to enable parliaments in which the number of seats each party holds more accurately reflects the total percentage of the vote it actually receives. As was the case in the previous system, 5 Maori Electorates have been reserved for Maori voters, thus ensuring Maori representation in parliament. As the German model has shown, this will not only give the minor parties a greater chance of winning a seat in parliament but will probably make majority governments, once the rule, a rare thing in the future. The 1996 elections resulted in a coalition government between National and the New Zealand First Party. Labour is the most important of the parties in opposition.

28

I n t r o d u c t i o n

representation. This new voting model is supposed to give small parties a fairer chance of gaining representation in parliament.

Economy New Zealand is an agricultural country and its highly mechanized farms are among the most efficient in the world. Though only about 10 per cent of GDP is generated by agriculture, somewhat more than 50 per cent of the total land area is set aside for pastureland. The main exports are meat, wool and dairy products. However there has been an effort in recent decades to diversify exports, and commodities produced by the forestry, horticultural, manufacturing and fishing industries are of growing significance. Due in part to the countryÕs lack of suitable raw materials, heavy industry has never been of any significance. Main imports include machinery, cars, electrical goods, crude oil, plastics, iron and steel, pharmaceuticals and chemical products. The principal trading partners are Australia, the European Union, Japan and the United States. Trade with the Middle East, Eastern Europe and Asia is also important. Britain, New ZealandÕs main trading partner in the 1970Õs, now accounts for only 6 per cent of foreign trade. The influence of tourism on the economy has increased dramatically in recent years and the tourist industry is now one of the main earners of overseas funds.

Economic Reforms When Britain joined the EC in the 1970Õs the country lost its most

important market for agricultural goods. The economy went into decline and by the mid-1980Õs the country had accumulated a huge foreign debt. Matters came to a head in 1984 when a foreign exchange crisis became the catalyst for a series of far-reaching reforms which changed the worldÕs first welfare state into a country now acclaimed as a shining example of economic liberalism. What was once one of the most regulated economies outside the former Soviet bloc organised itself along free-market principles at such a pace that even the reforms of ThatcherÕs Britain seem modest in comparison. Masterminded at first by LabourÕs finance minister Roger Douglas, the reforms were later accelerated by NationalÕs finance minister Ruth Richardson. Financial and labour markets were deregulated, state-owned enterprises were privatised, state subsidies were abolished, protectionist trade barriers were largely removed and there were drastic cuts in social welfare spending. All this, and more, has taken place in not more than a dozen years and though the rate at which change is occurring has slowed, it has by no means stopped. Though at first the changes had some negative results, such as a rise in unemployment, the current upturn of the economy seems to suggest that they are working. Inflation is under control and unemployment has dropped from more than 10 per cent in 1991 to under 7 per cent in 1998. However it should not be overlooked that drastic cuts in the area of social welfare, including the abolition of the state-funded health insurance system, have hit low income groups especially hard. 29

I n t r o d u c t i o n

30

I n t r o d u c t i o n

Opposite page: The spectacular Fox Glacier on the West Coast Above: Abel Tasman is one of the country’s most beautiful national parks Right: The Beehive, Wellington Below: Sheep farming is still a mainstay of the economy

31

I n t r o d u c t i o n

Income inequality has grown along with poverty and crime. In spite of this, New Zealand has generally earned much international acclaim for the reforms which have been described as the most comprehensive and far-reaching in the world in recent decades.

Population At present New Zealand has a population of 3.71 million which is expected to increase to 4.53 million by 2039. However even then the countryÕs total population will still be less than that of cities like New York or London! Population density is relatively low with only 13 people per square kilometre. In comparison, the UK has 92 per sq miles (239sq km) and the USA 11 per sq mile (128sq km). As in many industrialised countries, the number of elderly people is increasing in relation to the rest of the population. It has been projected that by 2051 half of all New Zealanders will be older than 46 years, as compared to an average of 33 years in 1996. Nearly two thirds of all New Zealanders live on the North Island. Though most visitors are first struck by the rural nature of the landscape, the country is in fact highly urbanised with around 85 per cent of the population living in towns. Auckland (population 1,057,000) alone is home to 28 per cent of the population. It is followed in size by Wellington (345,000), Christ church (309,000) Dunedin (120,000) and Hamilton (105,000). Although New Zealand was first settled by the Maori, a Polynesian people, close to 80 per cent of all New Zealanders are now of 32

European (largely British) descent. Around 15 per cent of the population is Maori. Other ethnic groups include immigrants from the Pacific Islands, Chinese and Indians.

Maori-Pakeha Relations For many years New Zealand considered itself to be a land without racial problems. There was no segregation or open discrimination of the kind that could be seen in South Africa or the United States. Maori children went to school with children of European extraction, they could apply for the same jobs and there were seats in parliament that were especially reserved for Maori politicians. However, this overly positive impression that white New Zealanders had of their country began to crumble in the 1950Õs. Prior to World War II the Maori population was largely rural based. They lived within traditional tribal structures and contact with the Pakeha (New Zealander of European descent) majority was relatively superficial. However, after the war the population became increasingly urbanised. In order to escape rural poverty, many young Maori went to the cities in search of work. For the most part they found only relatively low paid jobs in factories or in the transport industry. By the 1960Õs some Auckland suburbs already had large Maori populations. Though many urban Maori successfully adjusted to their new living circumstances, there were nevertheless obvious discrepancies between the Maori and Pakeha populations. Maori children tended to do less well in school than their

I n t r o d u c t i o n

Pakeha fellows, few Maori had leading positions in government or business and a disproportionate number of Maori were locked away in New Zealand jails. Maori leaders perceived these problems as having their roots in the colonial past. Defeated, colonised and forced to adapt to a foreign culture, many Maori had lost their sense of cultural belonging. The Pakeha had followed a policy of assimilation with the goal of completely integrating the Maori within Pakeha society. For many years the education system had played an important role in this respect, ignoring Maori cultural values so successfully that few Maori were even able to speak their own language. However, the increased sense of cultural difference that came from living within Pakeha society eventually led to a revival of Maoritanga (Maori culture). This in turn brought about a new political consciousness that articulated itself primarily in the demand for the return of Maori Land. In the Treaty of Waitangi (1840), the British Crown had promised the Maori undisturbed possession of their lands and all the rights and privileges of British subjects. These promises were repeatedly broken and, over the years, Maori land was either confiscated by the government or lost in the course of shady land deals. Beginning in the 1970Õs and continuing into the present decade, the Maori have actively protested for the return of their land. Land occupations and protest marches were used as a way of forcing the government to recognise past injus-

tices. And they have enjoyed some measure of success. Large areas of land have been returned to some tribes as have lucrative fishing rights. In 1994 the government offered a $1 billion dollar settlement for all outstanding land claims. Though some tribes have entered into negotiations with the government, it remains to be seen whether or not this will finally resolve the problem. The struggle for land has been at the same time a struggle for cultural equality. The government has long since abandoned its policy of assimilation and has accepted the bicultural nature of New Zealand society. Much more attention is given to Maoritanga on television and radio than was the case in the past. In the field of education there is now a much greater emphasis on the special needs of Maori students. Maori is being taught at school and university level. In special schools such as the Kohanga Reo (language nests), Maori children are taught within a framework based on Maori culture and values as opposed to the formerly ethnocentric ideals of the past. Though the problems between Pakeha and Maori are still a long way from being solved, relations between the two peoples can be described as good, if not perfect. As in other former colonies it has been necessary to come to terms with the past in order to build a successful future.

33

Kumeu

Riverhead Forest

Waitakere Ranges

16

Helensville

AUCKLAND & HAURAKI GULF

Muriwai Beach

Kaipara Harbour

16

18

Devonport

1

Manurewa

Rangitoto Island

Whangaparaoa peninsula

Auckland

16

Manukau Harbour

Waitemata Harbour

1

Orewa

To Whangarei & the North

To Hamilton

Papakura

Howick Historical Village

Howick

Motuihe Island

Causeway

Motutapu Island

Rakino Island

Tiritiri Matangi Island

Onetangi

Waiheke Island

0

0

Hunua Ranges

Little Barrier Island

Port Fitzroy

Kawa

Motairehe

5

10kms

5

Hauraki Gulf

Port Jackson

10miles

Great Barrier Island

Tryphena

Whangaparapara

Great Barrier Island

AUCKLAND & HAURAKI GULF For most foreign visitors, Auckland is the gateway to New Zealand. It is also the countryÕs largest city and nowhere else in the world are there as many Polynesians living together in one place. But the city is not just a sprawling metropolis of concrete and glass; Aucklanders are blessed with two beautiful Harbours and there are more than 100 beaches within an hourÕs drive of the heart of the city. With the sparkling waters of the Hauraki Gulf more or less lapping at the doorstep it is not surprising to find that many of the locals are keen yachtsmen or women, a fact that has earned Auckland a nickname as Ôthe City of SailsÕ.

Auckland City Tour Queen Street A good place to start a walk around the city is on Queen Elizabeth II Square at the foot of Queen Stre et. There is a branch of the Auckland Visitor Centre located here where visitors can arm themselves with a

free map and whatever other information they might need before setting off. Just a little north of the Square is the waterfront from where boats depart on a variety of cruises around the Harbour and into the Hauraki Gulf. Located in the former Chief Post Office in Queen Elizabeth Mall is the Waterfront 2000 Display Centre. Here visitors can inform

Above: Auckland Harbour

35

A u c k l a n d

&

Sky City Complex A close look at AucklandÕs newest architectural feature involves a detour off Queen Street to the corner of Federal and Victoria Streets. The monumental Sky City complex houses a casino, a 344 room hotel, four restaurants and a theatre. Attached to the complex is the 1,076ft (328m) tall Sky Tower, one of the highest lookout towers in the world. Excellent views from the top, of course, but you have to pay for the pleasure.

themselves about the various projects that (pending final approval) will eventually transform AucklandÕs waterfront. These developments will take place over the next decade and are estimated to cost billions of dollars. As some projects that have been planned will affect the public transport system, visitors are advised to check timetables and departure points of trains and buses. Not far from the information kiosk, on Queen Elizabeth II Square, is the New Zealand National Maritime Museum on Hobson Wharf. This interesting Ôhands-onÕ museum offers visitors a fascinating insight into the countryÕs seafaring history. There are exhibits explaining how the Maori migrated across the Pacific to New Zealand, as well as on the countryÕs European discoverers, Abel Tasman and Captain James Cook. On display here is the worldÕs 36

H a u r a k i

G u l f

first jet boat, the Hamilton Jet , which was invented by the New Zealander William Hamilton in 1957. In the museum workshops sailmakers, woodturners and boatbuilders can be seen at work. Cruises on the Harbour aboard the scow Ted Ashby take place at 12.30pm daily. Looking towards AucklandÕs busy main shopping street from Queen Elizabeth Square, it is hard to imagine that in the 1840Õs Queen Street was no more than a bush-covered gully. It is certainly worth the stroll uphill from here, if only to browse through WhitcoullÕs Bookshop with its good selection of New Zealand literature, or one of the various souvenir shops. Only a short way up the street, on the left hand side of the road, is Vulcan Lane. If it is time for a cup of coffee then one of the sidewalk cafŽs here might be just the thing.

Aotea Centre Continuing on up Queen Street one eventually passes Aotea Square where the Aotea Centre is situated. The Centre is a venue for performances of classical music and much else besides. Nearby are the Force Entertainment and Civic Theatre complexes which are due for completion towards the end of 1999. They will house the main Auckland Visitor Centre office, as well as a Planet Hollywood restaurant, IMAX giant screen cinema and a modern live performance theatre. From the Square the road climbs somewhat more steeply past the palms of Myers Park (right-hand side of road) and a few very inviting little ethnic restaurants on the lefthand side. Especially popular are the

A u c k l a n d

&

H a u r a k i

AUCKLAND

Waitemata Harbour

7

ra l

ak e St field

nby R

St

16

Pa

rn

el

lR

d

30

s

30

n he ep St Ave t S 25

26

Upper Queen St

Myers Park

17 We St. llesle Ea y st

t

W

Dr

ayo

22

M

Nelson St

Cook St

20

Parnell Rise

sS

Gallery Wellesley St. West

21

24

15

d R h e ac Av Be ac z An

14

19 18

Victoria Park

Ponso

Princes St Albert Park

n

Fa

Dr

13

12

Queen St

St

aki

Tam

Quay St

Customs St

Albert St

we

a sh

Q. Elizabeth II Square

Sym ond

11

To Harbour Bridge

10

9

nley

3

1

8

6

Sta

5

4

2

G u l f

22

d

27

28

Auckland Domain

Carlton Gore Rd

Rd

New

d hR

0

To Zoo & MOTAT

400m

Mount Eden Domain

d nR M ou nt ai

N

Gre

o rt

Gillies Ave

at N

orth

Khyber Pass rd

Broadway

Newton Rd

29

AROUND AUCKLAND CITY 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Westhaven Boat Harbour Wynyard Wharf Maritime Museum Hobson Wharf Princes Wharf Ferry Berth Ferry Building Queens Wharf Captain Cook Wharf Marsden Wharf Downtown Airline Terminal Waterfront 2000 Display Centre Downtown Bus Terminal Vulcan Lane Parnell Rose Gardens

16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

University Art Gallery AA Sky City CPO (Chief Post Office) Victoria Park Market Central Police Hospital To Kelly Tarlton's Holy Trinity Cathedral Kinder House Ewelme Cottage Auckland Museum Highwic Parnell Village

37

A u c k l a n d

&

H a u r a k i

G u l f

International Cuisine Apart from the Myers Park section of Queen Street, there are many other areas in Auckland where it is possible to try good food, in conducive surroundings and at a reasonable price. What is rather astonishing is the sheer number of restaurants offering exotic cuisine in a country where, only a decade before, a portion of crinkly pommes frites with steak was considered the culinary ne plus ultra. Whether Middle Eastern, Vietnamese, Mexican, Turkish, Indian or Japanese; it is all here.

Caravanserai Tea House and Hasan Baba, both of which offer good food at reasonable prices.

K. Road More of AucklandÕs cosmopolitan character can be discovered by turning right near the top of Queen Street into Karangahape Road (also known simply as ÔK. RoadÕ). Here it is possible to find greengrocersÕ shops catering to the taste-buds of the cityÕs Asian and Polynesian population, as well as a few seedy sex shops and massage parlours. At 283 K. Road the Polynesian Bookshop has some excellent titles for those with a deeper interest in Polynesian culture. Popular cafŽs in K. Road include Urbi et Orbi and the Verona CafŽ. The Vesuvio restaurant has been recommended for its good Italian food.

The Domain To reach the peace and quiet of the Auckland Domain, which is the largest area of parkland close to the City Centre, continue back along Karangahape Road, cross the 38

Grafton Bridge, and follow Park Road. Buses to the Domain (Nos 63, 64 or 65) leave from the Downtown Bus Terminal on Custom Street, only a short distance from the information kiosk at the foot of Queen Street.

Auckland Museum Located within the Domain is the excellent Auckland Museum which houses the largest collection of Maori artefacts in the world, along with some fine displays of art and culture from the South Pacific region. Of particular interest in the Maori section is a magnificent 82ft (25m) war canoe and a carved meeting house which originally stood near Thames on the Coromandel Peninsula. A highlight of the natural history section is a model of the extinct giant moa. If possible it is a good idea to try and make sure a visit to the museum coincides with one of the concerts put on by the Pounamu Cultural Group . These performances of traditional Maori songs and dances take place at 11.15am and 1.30pm. Visitors who arrive early enough can combine the concert with one

A u c k l a n d

&

H a u r a k i

G u l f

Above: Auckland is New Zealand’s largest city Right: Excellent restaurants offering Japanese and Thai cuisine reflect the influence of Auckland’s significant Asian population

39

A u c k l a n d

&

of the very informative guided tours of the Maori galleries that take place at 10.30am and 12.45pm.

Parnell To the north-east and east of the Domain is the old suburb of Parnell. Here a number of AucklandÕs historic buildings have managed to escape the developersÕ bulldozers and the energetic might like to continue the walk through Parnell Village before returning to Queen Street via the University and Albert Park. Otherwise Parnell can be saved for later as it is only a short bus trip from the inner city. If, however, the legs allow it then leave the Domain along Domain

Parnell Village The Village is a cluster of colonial buildings along Parnell Road that have been restored as a trendy shopping complex, complete with a quaint Victorian atmosphere. There are a number of handicrafts shops here as well as some nice, if somewhat pricey, cafŽs and restaurants. An additional plus for all those who are spending the weekend in town, is that all the shops are open seven days a week. From the Village it is about a half hour on foot back to Queen Street.

40

H a u r a k i

G u l f

Drive and head for Ayr Street, just off Parnell Road. Situated here are Ewelme Cottage (1864) and Kinder House (1858), two fine old Victorian homes that are both open to the public. Further along Parnell Road the Holy Trinity Cathedral is also worth a look and from here it is not far to Parnell Village.

Albert Park Those who have not continued through Parnell can leave the Domain via Stanley Street and then follow Grafton Road and Alfred Street through the university grounds to Albert Park. Next to the park, on the corner of Kitchener Street and Wellesly Street East, is the Auckland City Art Gallery . The galleryÕs collection of New Zealand art is the largest and most comprehensive in the country and includes works by such early colonial painters as Gottfried Lindauer (1839-1926) and Charles Goldie (1870-1947). Goldie is famed for his detailed portraits of Maori wearing traditional mokos (tattoos) and LindauerÕs scenes from traditional Maori life are regarded as being accurate, if artistically unimaginative, representations. The British and European collections include works by Gainsborough, Turner and Bassano. A short distance away from the main building is the New Gallery . It is devoted to contemporary New Zealand art and features a collection of works by Colin McCahon, one of New ZealandÕs most important modern painters. From Albert Park it is no longer far to Queen Street and the start of this walk at Queen Elizabeth Square.

A u c k l a n d

&

Auckland Suburbs Getting about Because Auckland sprawls over a huge area that includes most of the islands of the Hauraki Gulf as well as the Auckland isthmus itself, it is not surprising that a number of attractions lie outside the scope of an inner city walk and are best visited by either bus, car or boat. With this in mind it is worth considering getting either a Busabout Pass or the United Airlines Explorer Bus Pass . Both these all-day bus passes cost only $10 and save the hassles of parking. Fullers Cruises offer an all-day boat pass they call the Harbour Explorer which is also good value (see Additional Information).

H a u r a k i

G u l f

The Museum of Transport and Technology (MOTAT), on Great North Road, is a 10 minute drive from downtown Auckland via the North Western Motorway. Among the many machines on display are two aircraft designed by pioneer aviator Richard Pearse, who, it is claimed, became airborne in 1902, ahead of the Wright Brothers. At MOTAT 2 , a separate site a short distance away, there is an impressive collection of historic aircraft. A vintage tram links MOTAT with Auckland Zoo , where the local stars are the kiwis and tuataras but lions, elephants and other animals are also present. A feature of the zoo is a large walk-through aviary where visitors may view native birds.

Devonport The picturesque suburb of Devonport with its beaches, cafes and quaint 19th century atmosphere is situated on the other side of Waitemata Harbour. Though Devonport can be reached by bus it is much more interesting to do the 15 minute boat trip from the Ferry Building on Quay Street. Many people do not get much further than the area in the near vicinity of the ferry dock, as it is here that most of the restaurants, cafes and arts & crafts galleries are concentrated. Certainly the view from the waterfront promenade back across to the city skyline is already quite good, but more commanding views can be had from the top of Mt Victoria and North Head. Both these hills are old volcanic cones with Mt Victoria being the higher of the two. What it lacks in height North Head makes up for in historical interest, as it was once fortified towards the end of last century as a result of (unfounded) fears of a Russian invasion. Extended during World Wars I and II, the fortifications have since been dismantled but a few old guns remain to be seen. Not far from North Head the lovely Cheltenham Beach offers the chance of a swim and a tan.

41

A u c k l a n d

&

H a u r a k i

G u l f

Above: City from North Shore, Auckland

42

Main picture: Cruises around the Hauraki Gulf depart from the piers next to the Ferry Building, downtown Auckland

A u c k l a n d

&

H a u r a k i

G u l f

43

A u c k l a n d

&

For many, an even greater attraction than the zoo is Kelly TarltonÕs Underwater World , only 3 miles (6km) from the city on Tamaki Drive. Here one has the unique opportunity of experiencing what it is like to go diving in New ZealandÕs coastal waters and to travel in Antarctica, without getting wet or freezing in the process! In the main aquarium section, a moving walkway goes through a clear acrylic tunnel that allows visitors to experience the sensation of having schools of fish and even sharks swim around them. Also part of the complex is the Antarctic Encounter . In this experience, a trip through the south polar ice is vividly simulated with an animated killer whale and a snow storm adding to the thrills. All in all, Kelly TarltonÕs is probably the closest most of us will ever come to one of the worldÕs most extreme environments.

Auckland Isthmus Though it may not look like it now, the narrow neck of land over which Auckland spreads itself was also

H a u r a k i

G u l f

what one might call an extreme environment. Only a few tens of thousands of years ago, the Auckland isthmus was formed by the ash and lava spewed forth by over 60 volcanoes. Though, in the course of time, many of the smaller cones have disappeared, the larger peaks have been preserved and today they provide excellent viewpoints over Auckland and its surroundings.

One Tree Hill Perhaps the best known of AucklandÕs extinct volcanoes is One Tree Hill (600ft/183m). Like many of the other volcanic cones it was once the site of a fortified Maori settlement or pa. It has been estimated that this pa could hold around 4,000 defenders and its massive earthworks are still clearly visible. The lone pine tree that now stands on the summit next to an obelisk, was planted to replace the original totara tree that gave the hill its name. This totara, which was sacred to the Maori, was cut down by vandals during the early period of settlement. At the foot of the hill, in Cornwall Park, is Acacia Cottage . Built in

The Coast to Coast Walkway The following points of interest can be reached by bus; however, it is also possible to visit a number of them by walking the Coast to Coast Walkway. The route is clearly signposted, begins by the Ferry Building on Waitemata Harbour and ends at Manukau Harbour. It takes about 4 hours to complete (there are plenty of opportunities to catch a bus if you get tired) and takes in Albert Park, Auckland Domain, One Tree Hill and Mt Eden. The Auckland Visitor Centre has pamphlets describing this and other walks in and around the city.

44

A u c k l a n d

&

1841 it is the cityÕs oldest building. Though not as old, two other Victorian homes worth visiting are Alberton , to the north-west of One Tree Hill at 100 Mt Albert Road, and Highwic, at 40 Gillies Avenue, a short distance south of the Auckland Domain. Further afield, more of AucklandÕs colonial past can be seen at Howick Historical Village , a restored military settlement about a twenty minute drive south-east of the City Centre. A bit further north of One Tree Hill and only a five minute drive from Queen Street is the volcanic cone of Mount Eden (643ft/196m). Though there are also the remains of a pa on the hillÕs slopes, it is the best view in Auckland that leads most people to the summit. From here one can look out over the entire Auckland isthmus and towards the islands of the Hauraki Gulf beyond.

Hauraki Gulf Maritime Park The sheltered waters of the Hauraki Gulf are dotted with islands, fortyseven of which fall within the boundaries of the maritime park. Though a number of the islands can be easily reached from Auckland, some require special permission from the Department of Conservation (DOC) before they can be visited and others are strictly off limits. The reason for such restricted access is that a few of the more remote islands serve as a last refuge for plants and birds that are now very rare or no longer present on the mainland. Most boats to the islands leave from near the Ferry Building on the Auckland waterfront, not far from

H a u r a k i

G u l f

the foot of Queen Street. Fullers runs regular trips to Waiheke, Rangitoto, Great Barrier, Motuihe and Rakino Islands. Gulf Trans operates from Wynyard Wharf to Great Barrier and the schooner Te Aroha sails during the summer from Captain Cook Wharf to Little Barrier and Tiritiri Matangi Islands Ñ both wharfs are within walking distance of the Ferry Building.

Waiheke Island Not included in the maritime park, but only a half hour away from Auckland, is Waiheke Island. Its accessibility, great beaches and a good range of accommodation, make this the most visited island in the Gulf. Sea kayaks can be hired on the island and there are some good walking trails for those who prefer to stay on dry land. On top of all this, fourteen vineyards ensure that AucklandÕs fastest growing wine region has no shortage of good vintages with which to toast the efforts of the day. The small resident population consists of artists, farmers, pensioners and a few enviable business people who commute to Auckland City.

45

A u c k l a n d

&

The Islands of Rangitoto & Motutapu Included within the maritime park and joined to each other by a causeway are Rangitoto and Motutapu Islands. Of the two, it is Rangitoto that is the more interesting. This bush-clad island was formed by a series of volcanic eruptions, the most recent of which took place only 250 years ago. Since then, the volcano has been a picture of tranquillity and people have been coming here for picnics and to walk through a beautiful forest of red-flowering pohutukawas for close to a century. A ÔmustÕ when on the island is the walk from the wharf to the islandÕs summit which takes about an hour. The views from the crater rim are spectacular. Another track branches off the summit walk to some interesting lava caves (30 minutes return). As the volcanic terrain is very rough, good walking shoes are essential. For those who want to stay longer, the only accommodation is a simple campsite on Motutapu Island.

Great Barrier Island About a two hour boat trip from Auckland, Great Barrier is the largest island in the Gulf. With its fine beaches and unspoiled stands of native forest, this sparsely inhabited island is the perfect escape for all those who love the outdoors. Popular activities on Great Barrier, or Aotea as it is known by the Maori, include mountain biking, tramping, scuba diving, surfing and sea kayaking. Though a wide range of accommodation is available, the eating out 46

H a u r a k i

G u l f

possibilities are mainly limited to Tryphena , the islandÕs main town. There are, however, a few stores (at Tryphena, Claris and Whangaparapara) where foodstuffs and other basic necessities can be bought.

AuthorsÕ Tip The only electrical power on Great Barrier is provided by privately run generators. As there is no street lighting, visitors should bring a flashlight with them. Note also that there is no scheduled bus service and that the roads are mainly unsealed. Hire cars are available, but many visitors prefer to rent a mountain-bike for excursions around the island.

Little Barrier Island Whereas only parts of Great Barrier are included within the maritime park, Little Barrier Island enjoys complete protection as it has the last significant area of native forest unaffected by introduced animals in the country. Among the rare native birds that have found refuge in Little BarrierÕs virtually undisturbed rainforest, are the flightless kakapo parrot and the stitchbird. As there is no ferry service, and access is anyway very restricted, it is probably easiest to get there on a nature tour with the schooner Te Aroha (see Activities section).

A u c k l a n d

&

H a u r a k i

G u l f

Tiritiri Matangi More easily accessible is the island of Tiritiri Matangi. This wildlife sanctuary offers the unique opportunity of seeing some of New ZealandÕs, and the worldÕs, rarest birds in the wild. Endangered native birds that may be spotted here include the flightless takahe, saddlebacks, red-crowned parakeets and New ZealandÕs rarest species of duck, the brown teal. The unspoiled beaches of Great Barrier Island and the Coromandel are only a short flight away from Auckland City

FullersÕ mail run Motuihe and Rakino Islands, with their fine sandy beaches, can be visited on FullersÕvery popular mail run. This leisurely cruise takes you around the islands and bays of the inner gulf and lasts the whole day. For a description of Kawau Island, see the following section on Northland.

NOW if one has had oneÕs fill of Auckland but not of beaches, sea and sun, then there is only one thing for it: cross AucklandÕs Harbour Bridge

with its ÔNippon ClipponsÕ (two extra lanes on both sides added by Japanese engineers) and head for sunny Northland. 47

A

Auckland & Hauraki Gulf

ACTIVITIES Auckland Adventure Activities Auckland Adventures ☎ 528 3036 Offer camping, winery and cultural tours. Auckland Wilderness Kayaking ☎ 630 7782 Guided kayak tours to remote areas. Half or full day, also overnight trips.

Bush and Beach Ltd ☎/Fax 478 2882 Tours into the Waitakere Ranges and to the gannets at Muriwai Beach. Highly recommended. Cliffhanger Tours ☎ 815 1851 A one day abseiling and bushwalking tour in the Waitakere Forest. FergÕs Kayaks ☎/Fax 529 2230 Tours around Rangitoto Island and Kawau Island.

Harbour Trips & Hauraki Gulf Cruises Most of the boats and cruises depart from Quay St, next to Ferry Building. Devonport Ferries Are operated by Fullers and depart daily from the city to the picturesque suburb of Devonport, on the other side of Waitemata Harbour. The scenic crossing takes 15 minutes. Boats depart from the Ferry Terminal, Quay St on a half hourly basis 6.15am-7pm. Fullers Cruises Offers a variety of trips around the Harbour and to various islands in the Hauraki Gulf (Rangitoto, Waiheke, Great Barrier and a few smaller islands). Boats depart from the piers near the Ferry Building. Tickets and information are available from Fullers Cruise Centre, ground floor of Ferry Building, Quay St. ☎ 367 9102 for information or 367 9111 for reservations. Fullers Harbour Explorer is an all day or half day boat pass that allows passengers to get on and off at the various stops. The boat stops at Kelly TarltonÕs, Rangitoto Island and Devonport. Boats depart daily at 9.30am, 11am, 2pm & 4pm. Fullers Mail Run is an all day trip that takes in many of the islands and bays of the inner gulf. The boat departs Sat, Sun & Wed at 9.30am and arrives back in Auckland at 5.45pm.

Kestrel (Jazz Ferry) Does trips from AucklandÕs Ferry Terminal to Devonport on Friday and Saturday evenings. A jazz band entertains passengers and a reasonably 48

A priced ticket allows you to go back and forth as often as you like. Those who wish to dine on board should make reservations. It runs from 7pm to 1.15am ☎ 367 9111. Pride of Auckland Company Offers lunch and dinner cruises aboard their yachts. They depart from the pier next to the Ferry Building (☎ 377 0459).

Te Aroha Natural history cruises of the Hauraki Gulf are offered by Adventure Cruising Co. Ltd., PO Box 338, Auckland 1 ☎ 444 9342. The cruises take place aboard the historic schooner Te Aroha and vary in length from a single day to four days. Cruises are offered from Nov-April and depart from Captain Cook Wharf, Downtown Auckland. Ted Ashby Free cruises on the scow at 12.30pm daily. Departure point is the Maritime Museum.

Mountain Biking

Scenic Flights

Adventure Cycles Fort Street ☎ 309 5566 Hire mountain and touring bikes.

Balloon Safaris ☎ 415 8289 Fly over Auckland in a hot-air balloon. Champagne and snacks are included.

Desert Coast Mountain Biking ☎/Fax 411 8612 Mountain bike tours. Pedaltours 164 Parnell Road ☎ 302 0968 Fax 302 0967 Organise bike tours throughout New Zealand.

Scenic Air Safaris ☎ 298 5210 The Helicopter Line ☎ 377 4406

Great Barrier Island Adventure Activities Stray Possum Lodge ☎/Fax (09) 429 0109 Run a large number of activities from their hostel. They include mountain biking, sea kayaking, snorkelling and tramping. They also offer cheap backpacker-style accommodation in the lodge, or one can choose a more expensive self-contained chalet.

Mountain Biking For those who are not actually doing one of the excellent walking tracks, then the best way to get around Great Barrier is by mountain bike. Bikes can be hired on the island at Tryphena or (quite often) from the place you are staying. 49

A

Auckland & Hauraki Gulf

ACCOMMODATION See pages 288 and 300 in the FactFile for the accommodation and restaurant rating guide Auckland City Garden Lodge $ (Backpackers) 25 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell ☎ (09) 302 0880 Fax (09) 309 8998 Historic villa. Very quiet and clean. Well equipped communal kitchen. Downtown Constitution Hill Backpackers $ 6 Constitution Hill ☎ (09) 303 4768 Located in a park, 5 mins walk from City Centre. Downtown Queen Street Backpackers $ 4 Fort St ☎ (09) 373 3471 Fax (09) 358 2412 Central location. Busy and loud. International Backpackers Parnell $ ÒAlanÕs PlaceÓ 8 Maunsell Rd, Parnell ☎/Fax (09) 358 4584 Quiet location. Aachen House $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 39 Market Rd, Remuera ☎ (09) 520 2329 Fax (09) 524 2898 Edwardian mansion, 21/2 miles (4km) to City Centre.

50

Aspen Lodge Bed & Breakfast Hotel $$ 62 Emily Place ☎ (09) 379 6698 Fax (09) 377 7625 Central location. ChildÕs play area. Harbourview Station Hotel $$ 131 Beach Rd ☎ (09) 303 2463 Fax (09) 358 2489 Close to City Centre, opposite railway station. FreemanÕs TravellersÕ Hotel $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 65 Wellington St ☎ (09) 376 5046 Fax (09) 376 4052 Kiwi International Hotel $$ 411 Queen St ☎ (09) 379 6487 Fax (09) 379 6496 Toll free: 0800 100 411 Restaurant and free parking. First Imperial Hotel $$$ 131-139 Hobson St ☎ (09) 357 6770 Fax (09) 357 6793 Hyatt Auckland Hotel $$$ Cnr Princes St & Waterloo Quadrant ☎ (09) 366 1234 Fax (09) 303 2932

A EATING OUT Caravanserai Tea House $ (BYO) 430 Queen Street ☎ (09) 302 0244 Middle Eastern cuisine. Death by Chocolate $ 42 Jervois Road, Ponsonby ☎ (09) 360 2828 Only desserts. Also at 92 Tamaki Drive, Mission Bay and 55 Victoria Road, Devonport.

Vesuvio Restaurant $$ (BYO/Licensed) Karangahape Plaza 501, Karangahape Road ☎ (09) 379 4769 Excellent view over city, Italian-style cuisine. Cin Cin $$$ 99 Quay St ☎ (09) 307 6966 New Zealand specialities and waterfront location.

Hasan Baba $ (BYO) 466 Queen St ☎ (09) 358 5308 Turkish cuisine.

Japanese Restaurant Daikoku $$$ Cnr Quay St & Downtown Square ☎ (09) 309 8151 This branch of the Daikoku specialises in sushi and sashimi.

Konditorei Boss $ 305 Parnell Rd Parnell Village, Parnell ☎ (09) 377 8953 German cakes, pastries & light fare.

Kermadec Ocean Fresh Restaurant $$$ Kermadec Brasserie and Bars 1st Floor Viaduct Quay Cnr Hobson & Quay Sts ☎ (09) 309 0412 (restaurant) ☎ (09) 309 0413 (brasserie) Perhaps the best seafood restaurant in Auckland.

Poppadom $$ (BYO/Licensed) 55 Customs Street ☎ (09) 379 8661 Good Indian food.

Café, Herne Bay, Auckland

Thai Friends $$ (BYO) 3/311 Parnell Rd, Parnell Village, Parnell ☎ (09) 373 5247 Good Thai food.

51

A

Auckland & Hauraki Gulf

GENERAL INFORMATION Auckland,

Area Code: ☎ (09)

Consulates Australia Union House, 32-38 Quay St ☎ 303 2429 Canada 9th Floor, Jetset Centre, 48 Emily Place ☎ 309 8516 USA General Building, Cnr Shortland & OÕConnell Sts ☎ 303 2724 UK Fay Richwhite Building, 151 Queen St ☎ 303 2973

Important Telephone Numbers Automobile Association Emergency Chemist Emergency Dental Emergency Medical Taxis

☎ ☎ ☎ ☎ ☎

377 520 520 524 300

4660 6634 6609 5943 3000

International Airlines Air New Zealand British Airways Canadian Airlines Japan Airlines Qantas Airways Singapore Airlines Thai Airways United Airlines

☎ ☎ ☎ ☎ ☎ ☎ ☎ ☎

357 367 309 379 357 303 379 379

3000 7500 0735 9906 8700 2129 6455 3800

Post Offices The main post office and poste restante service is located in the Bledisloe Building, Wellesley Street. Post offices are open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm.

TRANSPORT Airport Transport The Airbus departs from the Downtown Airline Terminal, cnr Quay & Albert Sts. The first bus leaves at 6.10am, the last bus at 8.50pm. From Auckland International Airport the first bus leaves at 6.20am and the last one at 8.20pm. The journey takes about 40mins. For timetables ☎ (09) 275 7685 or for general enquiries ☎ 275 9396. There are also shuttle buses offering door to door service: Super Shuttle ☎ 307 5210 or 0800 727 747, JohnstonÕs Shuttle Link☎ 275 1234.

Bus Services & City Tours The Downtown Bus Terminal is on Custom Street. Airport & Sightseeing buses depart from Downtown Airline Terminal and Old Ferry Building, Quay St. 52

A Please note that the proposed redevelopment of the Britomart area scheduled for 1999 (completion in 2001) will affect bus departure points and timetables. For information on buses, trains, ferries and carpooling phone Rideline on 366 6400. Those travelling on will find that the InterCity (☎ 357 8400) and Newmans (☎ 309 9738 or freephone: 0800 777 707) long distance buses depart from Sky City Coach Terminal, Sky City, 102 Hobson St. Reservations can also be made by calling at the Auckland Visitor Information Centre or at any accredited Travel Agent. Apart from the Explorer and Busabout buses mentioned below, many other companies also offer sightseeing tours around Auckland and further afield. United Airlines Explorer Bus: includes a number of AucklandÕs major attractions on its route and passengers can get on and off whenever they wish. The Explorer All Day Bus Pass may be purchased at the Ferry Building, end of Queen St. It departs the Ferry Building on an hourly basis, 10am-4pm daily. Busabout All Day Bus Pass: valid on AucklandÕs Yellow Buses. Information and timetables available from information kiosk, Downtown Bus Terminal or ☎ Buz-A-Bus 366 6400. The Busabout Pass is available from the driver. It allows unlimited travel from 9am weekdays and at all times on the weekend and public holidays.

Trains Long distance trains depart from Auckland Central Railway Station, Beach Road. Freephone: 0800 802 802. Reservations are taken from 7am-9pm daily. Tickets can also be booked at the Visitor Information Centre, 24 Wellesley Street.

NIGHTLIFE & ENTERTAINMENT For up-to-the-minute information on local events, concerts and so forth contact the Auckland Visitor Centre. The Saturday edition of the New Zealand Herald newspaper also provides daily updates on what is going on in the city. Most of the cityÕs nightlife is concentrated in the central city area. A number of pubs offer live music on weekends, many staying open until the early hours of the morning. Shakespeare Tavern & Brewery in Albert Street has live music on weekends as does the Civic Tavern on Wellesly Street West. Here the British Isles are well represented in the form of an Irish, a Scottish and an English Bar. The place to go for live jazz and blues (every night) is the Java Jive, at 12 Pompallier Terrace, Ponsonby. Also recommended is Kitty OÕBrienÕs Irish Pub at 2 Drake Street, Freemans Bay where the Guinness is downed to the accompaniment of live Irish folkmusic. 53

A

Auckland & Hauraki Gulf

Performances of classical music as well as ballet, opera and musicals take place at the Town Hall and Aotea Centre (☎ 309 2678). Live theatre venues include the Galaxy Theatre (☎ 302 0095), Mercury Theatre (☎ 303 0693) and Maidment Theatre (☎ 379 3685). Note that the buses stop running at about 10.30pm on weekdays and 7pm on Sundays.

PLACES TO VISIT Entry fees are payable unless otherwise stated.

Historic Places Alberton 100 Mt Albert Rd Ewelme Cottage 14 Ayr St, Parnell Highwic 40 Gillies Ave, Epsom Open: the above are open daily 10.30am-12pm, 1-4.30pm, except Xmas & Good Friday. Howick Historical Village Bells Road, Lloyd Elsmore Park, Pakuranga Bus: Howick bus from Downtown Bus Terminal. Open: daily 10am-4pm. Kinder House 2 Ayr St Open: Mon-Fri 12-3pm. Parnell Village Parnell Road, Parnell A picturesque cluster of shops in colonial style. Bus: Busabout, United Airlines Explorer and buses 63, 64 & 65 from Downtown Bus Terminal.

Markets Otara Markets Newbury St (off East Tamaki Rd), Otara Unique Polynesian atmosphere. Food, clothes, arts & crafts. Open: Sat 6am-12 noon. 54

Victoria Park Market Opposite Victoria Park Victoria St West Art galleries, fashion boutiques, jewelry, souvenirs, cafes & restaurants. Open: daily 9am-7pm.

Museums Auckland City Art Gallery Main Building Cnr Kitchener & Wellesley Sts Open: daily 10am-4.30pm. Entry to Ground Floor collection is free. Free guided tours 2pm Wed-Sun. Paintings from the 19th and early 20th centuries. New Gallery Cnr Wellesley & Lorne Streets Open: daily 10am-4.30pm. Collections of contemporary New Zealand art. Auckland Museum Auckland Domain Open: daily 10am-5pm (except Xmas day & Good Friday). Perfomances of Maori Songs and Dances on most days at 11.15am & 1.30pm. Admission is charged for concerts. Further details ☎ 838 7876. Admission to museum is free.

A

Top of the page: Picturesque marine views are just one of Auckland’s many attractive features Above: Two tramping huts on Great Barrier provide simple accommodation Right: Auckland Harbour Bridge from Westhaven Marina

55 55

A MOTAT & NZ Science Centre Great North Road Western Springs Bus: ARC (Pt Chevalier) bus 045 departs Customs St, downtown Auckland approx. every 15 minutes. Open: Mon-Fri 9am-5pm (except Xmas Day). Weekends & public holidays 10am-5pm. ☎ 846 0199 New Zealand National Maritime Museum Hobson Wharf Intersection of Quay & Hobson Sts Open: daily 9am-6pm. Rugby Hall of Fame 187 Queen Street Open: 9.30am-5pm daily. This modern interactive museum is a MUST for rugby fans.

Other Attractions

Auckland & Hauraki Gulf Muriwai Beach and Gannet Colony Approx. 10kms from Auckland city. The beach provides good surfing and it is possible to get quite close to the birds. A campground is located next to beach (☎ 411 7426/7763). Also close-by is an 18 hole golf course. Pavilion of New Zealand Montgomerie Road, Mangere (near International Airport) Audiovisual shows provide an introduction to New ZealandÕs past and present. Also live entertainment, kiwi fruit farm tours, horse riding and fishing Ñ they guarantee youÕll catch one! Bus: Airporter buses depart Downtown Airline Terminal and stop at Montgomerie Rd, only 3 minutes walk from Pavilion. Open: 10am-4pm.

Great Barrier Island For Great Barrier connections refer Waterfront 2000 Display Centre to Regional Transport. Cruises to various other islands in the Gulf are Queen Elizabeth Mall (in former Chief Post Office mentioned in Activities. building) HarrahÕs Sky City Casino Open: Mon-Fri. 9am-5pm. Cnr Victoria & Federal Sts Weekends 10.30am-4pm. ☎ (09) 912 6000 or 0800 888 711 97 gaming tables, slot machines Zoo and a Keno lounge. Motions Road, Open: 24 hours. Western Springs Kelly TarltonÕs Underwater World & Antarctic Encounter 23 Tamaki Drive, Orakei Bus: No 72, 73, 74 & 75 departing Downtown Terminal. Also Busabout bus and United Airlines Explorer Bus. Open: daily 9am-9pm.

56

Bus: Busabout bus or Pt Chevalier bus 045 from Customs St. Open: daily except Xmas Day 9.30am-5.30pm (last admission 4.15pm).

A REGIONAL TRANSPORT Great Barrier Island Air Great Barrier Airlines flies daily to Great Barrier from Auckland International AirportÕs domestic terminal and North Shore Airfield. The flight takes 30 minutes ☎ 275 9120 or 0800 900 600. There are also a few smaller airlines servicing the island.

Boat Gulf Trans, Wynyard Wharf, Auckland operates a regular car and passenger ferry service to Great Barrier Island. The crossing takes 6 hours. For details ☎ 373 4036. More expensive but quicker (2 hours) is Fullers service to the island. For connections to other islands in the Gulf refer to the heading ÔAucklandÕ under Activities.

VISITOR INFORMATION & PARK VISITOR CENTRES Auckland (Main office): Bledisloe House 24 Wellesley Street Auckland 1 Open:Mon-Fri 8.30am-6.00pm. Sat, Sun & public holidays 9am-5pm. ☎ (09) 366 6888 Fax (09) 366 6893 e-mail: [email protected] The office is located just off Queen Street behind the Civic Theatre. Around April 1999 the visitor center will move to new premises in the nearby Civic complex. Queen Elizabeth Square 1 Queen Street Open: Mon-Sun 9.30am-5pm. ☎ (09) 366 6888

Auckland International Airport Auckland Airport Visitor Centre Arrivals lounge Open: Mon-Sun from 5am until last flight. ☎ (09) 275 6467

Great Barrier Island Fullers Office Tryphena ☎ (09) 429 0004 Apart from information they can also help arrange accommodation. The main tourist office in Auckland also has information on the island. DOC Office Port Fitzroy ☎ (09) 429 0044 Fax (09) 429 0071 Information on Great BarrierÕs walking tracks.

57

Cape Reinga

NORTHLAND

Te Paki North Cape Parengarenga Harbour

Te Kao

Ninety Mile Beach

Houhora Houhora Head

Awanui Kaitaia

Doubtless Bay 10

Mangonui Whangaroa Bay

1

Mangamuka Bridge

Whangaroa Matauri Bay

Kohukohu Hokianga Harbour

Kerikeri

Waitangi Rawene Paihia Bay of Islands Waimate North 12 Ngawha Maritime & Historic Park Opua Kaikohe Russell Kawakawa

Opononi Omapere

Waipoua Kauri Forest

1

Baylys Beach

12

Dargaville

Poor Knights Islands

Tutukaka Ngunguru

Whangarei

Matakohe 12

Brynderwyn

Kaipara Harbour

Wellsford

Warkworth

16

Puhoi Helensville Wairewera

Orewa Rangitoto Island

AUCKLAND Manukau Harbour

58

Little Barrier Island

1

Mansion House

Kawau Island Great Barrier Island

Tiritiri Matangi Island Motutapu Island

Motuihe Island

Waiheke Island

0

20

40miles

NORTHLAND Northland is the region stretching north of Auckland. Not only is it one of the most picturesque parts of New Zealand, but the subtropical climate makes its superb beaches attractive even in winter. Among the many scenic attractions are the Bay of Islands, Ninety Mile Beach and Waipoua Kauri Forest. Boat trips around the Bay of Islands, yachting, scuba diving and big game fishing are popular activities of visitors to this region.

¥ ROUTE 1 ¥

NORTHLAND State Highway 1 (SH1) winds its way north in a leisurely fashion, passing through small farming towns and pockets of forest, with brief forays to the coast, on its unhurried path to the sun-soaked Bay of Islands and Kaitaia in the far north of Northland.

Auckland to the Bay of Islands Not far from Auckland, both Orewa and Waiwera on the Hibiscus Coast beckon with lovely white-sand beaches, but Waiwera can offer thermal springs as an additional

Above: Off the beaten track, Matauri Bay offers visitors a splendid beach 59 59

N o r t h l a n d

attraction. To get to the excellent beaches on Whangaparaoa Peninsula, leave the highway at Silverdale. Only a bit further up the road from Waiwera, the village of PuhoiÕs atmospheric pub, with its photos and memorabilia from the pioneer days, is a great place to quench the thirst after a day on the beach. From tiny Puhoi, it is another 31 miles (50km) to Warkworth. Warkworth is not much bigger than Puhoi, but the satellite station located near here gives the place a certain degree of importance. Once again there are plenty of nice beaches in the vicinity, but it is the possibility of an excursion to Kawau Island that recommends a longer stop. The boat leaves from Sandspit, just east of Warkworth. The island was once home to the colonial Governor and Premier Sir George Grey and his old residence, Mansion House (1844), can be visited. From Warkworth the road turns inland to Wellsford, after which it continues north, briefly skirting the coast between Waipu and Ruakaka, before arriving in Whangarei.

Whangarei With a population of 44,000, Whangarei is already a city by New Zealand standards and is NorthlandÕs largest and most important commercial area. Less reliant than other towns in this region on tourism, the city is a deep-sea port with oil refining, glass-making and ship building among to its main industries. The best views over the city and bay are from Mount Parahaki. 60

Down by the attractive waterfront, the Clapham Clock Museum has a collection of over 500 clocks, the oldest of which date back to the seventeenth century. The Whangarei Museum (Northland Regional Museum) lies about 3 miles (6km) south-west of town on the road (SH14) to Dargaville. Set in a large park the complex includes an Exhibition Centre with a fine collection of Maori artefacts, a Kiwi House and the historic Clarke Homestead which was built in 1885. Popular beaches within reach of Whangarei are at Ngunguru and Sandy Bay . On the road to Ngunguru it is worth stopping for a look at the picturesque Whangarei Falls.

Best scuba diving An excursion to the Poor Knights Islands can be thoroughly recommended for scuba diving enthusiasts. Departure point is Tutukaka, only a short distance north of Ngunguru. The waters around these islands are teeming with exotic, brightly-coloured fish and offer a diving experience scarcely to be rivalled anywhere else off the New Zealand coast. Some 34 miles (55km) north of Whangarei, the town of Kawakawa is unusual in that it shares its main street with the railway. In summer a vintage steam train does regular trips from here to Opua.

N o r t h l a n d

An attraction only a short distance south of town are the glow-worms in the Waiomio Caves . From Kawakawa a secondary road leads to the coast and Paihia.

The Bay of Islands The Bay of Islands was named by Captain Cook in 1769 and it was not all that long before it became the site of New ZealandÕs first European settlement Ñ a rough, brawling port known as Kororareka (Russell). The brothels and grog shops of yore have, of course, long since disappeared and the Bay townships are now characterised by the bustling activities of boat tour companies, kayak hire firms and the thousands of tourists they serve. And who can blame them all for coming? With its sheltered waters being ideal for boating, fishing and swimming, and with a wonderful climate on top, the Bay is the kind of place that many a tourist dreams of. A large number of the 150 or so islands to be found in the Bay are included within the Bay of Islands Maritime and Historic Park . For information about walks and camping in the park, which not only includes the islands but also stretches of coastal land, it is best to contact the Park Information Centre in Russell or the DOC office in Kerikeri .

Paihia Paihia is the traditional base for tourists who wish to explore the Bay of Islands. From here one can either embark on a big game fishing trip or simply enjoy a leisurely island cruise. Probably the best of these cruises out of Paihia or Russell is the

daily Cream Trip , a 5 1 /2 hour tour of the lovely Bay and its many islands. The tour recalls the days when milk and cream were collected by boat from isolated island farms. Other tours that can be recommended are the Cape Brett Trip and a romantic cruise aboard the sailing ship R. Tucker Thompson. There is not a great deal to see in Paihia itself, though Kelly TarltonÕs Shipwreck Museum is certainly worth a closer look. The museum is housed appropriately enough in an old sailing ship, and displays an interesting assortment of booty salvaged from the many wrecks to be found in New Zealand waters. The cafŽ on board offers light meals but is a bit pricey.

Waitangi Waitangi lies across the bridge over the Waitangi River, a short distance north of Paihia. It was here, in 1840, that the controversial Treaty of Waitangi was signed and New Zealand became a part of the British Empire. In return for handing over sovereignty to the British Crown, the Maori chiefs were granted the rights of British subjects and were also guaranteed continued possession of their lands and other resources. Unfortunately, the promises in print were not carried out in fact and the treaty has been a point of contention between Maori and Pakeha (white New Zealander) ever since. Although the signing of the treaty is still celebrated as Waitangi Day (February 6), many Maori people feel little cause to rejoice over past injustices. Ironically enough the name ÔWaitangiÕ can be translated as Ôweeping waterÕ. 61

N o r t h l a n d

Above: Waka (canoe), Waitangi, Bay of Islands

The treaty was signed on the lawn in front of the Treaty House , which was built as a home for the British government official James Busby in 1833. Kept inside the lovely old colonial dwelling are various historical artefacts, photos and a copy of the treaty. Nearby is a Maori meeting house, the interior of which is decorated with superb carvings. Also a tribute to the Maori wood-carverÕs skill is the huge carved war canoe, which is lowered to water once a year on Waitangi Day. The whole complex is entered via a VisitorÕs Centre where it is possible to view a half hour audio-visual on the history of the place. Thoroughly to be recommended for those with an interest in natural history is the Waitangi Mangrove Walk . This nature trail goes through one of the few mangrove forests in New Zealand. The trail leads to the pretty Haruru Falls and 62

requires about 2 hours. A brochure describing the walk is available at the VisitorÕs Centre.

Russell Russell can be reached by launch from Paihia but those who want to take their cars have to travel a little further south to Opua, where there is a car ferry (daily 6.40am-8.50pm; Friday until 9.50pm). There is an unsealed road that goes via Karetu and Waihaha to Russell but the trip takes much longer along this route. Once known as Kororareka, Russell was New ZealandÕs first European settlement. The earliest settlers, who began arriving around 1809, were a rough, brawling mixture of whalers, sealers, escaped convicts and adventurers. Such was the state of lawlessness in those wild colonial days that Kororareka was soon known as Ôthe Hell Hole of the

N o r t h l a n d

PacificÕ, and one shocked missionary described it as Òa dreadful place Ñ the very seat of SatanÓ. Rather than have the nationÕs first capital in a town more noted for its grog shops than law and order, Captain William Hobson (who became New ZealandÕs first governor) decided on a spot further south at Okiato . Hobson chose the name of Russell for his new capital but it was not long before he transferred it to the more favourable site of Auckland (1840) Ñ the capital was finally moved to Wellington in 1865, because of its more central location. The original Russell was eventually abandoned and in 1845 it was decided that Kororareka should shed the stigma attached to its old name by assuming that of HobsonÕs first short-lived capital. Below: Magnificently decorated interior of the meeting house at Waitangi

Today this picturesque township flourishes as an area for yachting and big game fishing. Those visitors who prefer a quieter visit, will find it makes a good alternative to Paihia as a base. Not many buildings from the original settlement are left to recall the colonial days but the few that still remain can be discovered in the course of an easy stroll. One reminder of more violent times is the bullet-holed walls of Christ Church , which survived the destruction of town by the Maori chief Hone Heke in 1845. Built in 1835, it is the countryÕs oldest surviving church. Down on the waterfront, Pompallier House (1842) was originally built to house the printing presses of New ZealandÕs first Catholic mission. Now the house functions as a working museum with its own vintage printery and tannery.

63

N o r t h l a n d

Flagstaff Hill For the great Maori leader Hone Heke, and other chiefs who had quickly become disenchanted with the Treaty of Waitangi, the Union Jack flying from Flagstaff Hill (Maiti Hill) behind Russell was a symbol of exploitation and broken promises. Hone Heke chopped down the flagpole four times and conducted a spirited resistance against British troops before he was finally defeated. A short, steep path leads up to this historic site from where a lovely panoramic view unfolds over the Bay.

Still on the theme of history, the Captain Cook Memorial Museum has a large-scale model of the great navigatorÕs ship Endeavour as its most interesting exhibit. The Duke of Marlborough Hotel also has a lot of history behind it, but visitors who have worked up a healthy thirst need not despair: it is still a fully functioning pub and no museum. As a place to eat, many people recommend the venerable Old Gables Restaurant which was founded way back in 1847.

Kerikeri The road onward leads north from Paihia to Kerikeri . The town is set near a picturesque inlet and is surrounded by orchards growing 64

kiwifruit along with a mouth-watering variety of other subtropical fruits. Apart from its orchards, Kerikeri is also renowned for its arts and crafts. Anybody looking for original souvenirs might well strike it lucky in a local handicraft shop. Two of New ZealandÕs oldest buildings are situated a couple of kilometres further north, right next to the inlet. Kemp House was built in 1821 as a mission house and is the countryÕs oldest surviving building. Still furnished in the style of the nineteenth century, it is open to the public. Next door the Old Stone Store was built in 1833. It has retained its function as a shop but also has a small museum upstairs. Other things to see around Kerikeri include RewaÕs Village, a very interesting reconstruction of a pre-European Maori village on the other side of the inlet from the Stone Store, and Rainbow Falls , roughly 2 1 /2 miles (4km) outside of town.

The Bay of Islands to Cape Reinga Continuing along SH10 pass through Waipapa and Kapiro but then, if times allows, turn off before Kaeo for an excursion to Matauri Bay. The asphalt road soon changes to gravel but then the bumps and jolts are a small price to pay for a chance to get off the beaten track. The road down to the coast from Matauri Bay township offers some terrific views, while the bay itself is graced with a lovely sandy beach. On a nearby hill is a memorial to the Greenpeace ship Rainbow Warrior . In an attempt to prevent the testing of nuclear bombs by the French

N o r t h l a n d

at Mururoa Atoll, the boat had regularly taken part in protest actions within the testing zone. On July 10th 1985, French agents sabotaged and sank it in Auckland Harbour. A camera-man was killed in the incident. The coastal road passes close to a number of secluded beaches at Wainui and Tauranga Bay before arriving at Whangaroa . Lacking the crowds of the Bay of Islands, this little town and its pretty bay is the ideal place to get away from it all for a few days. Big game fishing fans can try their luck here, but a relaxing pleasure cruise can also be highly recommended. Mangonui lies further north, beautifully situated at the southern tip of Doubtless Bay. The sea aquarium has an interesting display of living corals, sponges and other aquatic life from local waters. Doubtless Bay is lined with some magnificent beaches, though it is Coopers Beach that is most popular with the holiday crowds. The beach is fringed by ancient pohutukawa trees which make a stunning backdrop when, at Christmas, they flower bright red. Awanui on SH10 is the point where the tour buses from Paihia or Kaitaia turn off for the trip to Cape Reinga and Ninety Mile Beach . The road is tar-sealed as far as Te Paki, but it is not recommended that inexperienced motorists attempt the trip along the sands of Ninety Mile Beach. The road to the Cape skirts Aupouri Forest on its way up the narrow Aupouri Peninsula. This man-made forest is composed of fast-growing pine trees that were planted to secure drifting sand

dunes. Shortly before Houhora, a road branches off to Houhora Heads. The 3 miles (5km) detour is especially worth it in good weather as there is some good picnicking around the inlet. Another reason for this side trip is the excellent Wagener Museum , which has an extensive collection of Maori artefacts among its many interesting exhibits. Nearby is a camping ground and an old homestead built in the 1850Õs. At the old kauri gumdigging town of Houhora is New ZealandÕs northernmost pub Ñ an excuse for a drink if ever there was!

Te Kao Over half-way to the Cape, Te Kao is the largest Maori settlement on the peninsula. The townÕs humble skyline is dominated by the twin towers of the Ratana Temple. Though derived from the Christian faith, the Ratana Church is deeply imbued with elements of Maori culture and pre-European spiritual belief.

Further north the entrance to Parengarenga Harbour is the site of an impressive natural spectacle. In late February and early March, thousands upon thousands of bartailed godwits gather here before leaving on their epic 7,000-mile (12,000-km) journey to Siberia. 65

N o r t h l a n d

The Kauri: Giant of the Forest

T

he giant kauri (Agathis australis) can live for over 2,000 years, attain a girth of more than 65ft (20m) and exceed 164ft (50m) in height. Together with the American redwoods (sequoias), it is not only one of the largest conifers on earth but also one of the largest trees that has ever existed.

Ancestors of the kauri already dominated the primeval forests of the Mesozoic era, over 200 million years ago. In New Zealand the kauri is only found in the north of the North Island, but related trees of the same genus, Agathis, are also found in Southeast Asia and elsewhere in the South Pacific. Though the Maori valued the mighty kauri for their dug-out canoes, large-scale commercial exploitation did not begin until the arrival of the Europeans. The treeÕs long straight, branchless trunk was used for shipsÕ masts and the durable timber was also highly prized for building and furniture. By the 1820Õs the kauri timber industry was well established and the trees were felled on a scale that would have left todayÕs environmentalists in state of nervous shock. The rainforests (the Ôkauri forestÕ was actually a mixed forest made up of many different species, not just kauris) which once covered nearly all of Northland, were devastated. In this region the original kauri forests now cover only 1 per cent of their former area. Apart from the wood, the kauri was also valued for its gum, which was used in the production of varnishes and linoleum. It provided the basis for a flourishing export industry and at the height of the gum boom (late nineteenth century) hundreds of gum diggers flocked to the gumfields of the Coromandel and Northland. They either tapped the gum directly from the tree or dug for fossilised gum that had been deposited by ancient forests many thousands of years ago. The gum trade reached its peak around 1900 and then slowly petered out as synthetically-based varnishes began to dominate the market. Tane Mahuta, Waipoua Kauri Forest

66

N o r t h l a n d

67

N o r t h l a n d

Cape Reinga After Te Paki Station (the surroundings are managed by the government as Te Paki Coastal Park), where there are some simple camping sites, there is no other sign of human habitation until the lighthouse at Cape Reinga. Though the lighthouse is not open to the public, visitors are compensated by the beautiful panoramic views; in good weather it is possible to see as far as the Three Kings Islands, which were sighted by Abel Tasman in 1643. Below the lighthouse, on a wavebattered promontory of rock, is an ancient pohutukawa Ñ it is said to be over 800 years old. Maori tradition has it that the spirits of the dead depart through the roots of the tree into the ocean, on their final journey to the spiritual homeland of Hawaiki. There is plenty of good walking in the area of the Cape and Te Paki Coastal Park . Information about the latter can be obtained from the Ranger at Waitiki Landing , or at the

Information Centre in Kaitaia . The Cape Reinga Walkway is described in the book Guide to Walkways Ñ North Island published by the AA. The town of Kaitaia is situated near the southern end of Ninety Mile Beach and is a good base for trips in the far north of the Northland region. Originally a Maori village, Kaitaia started to expand with the arrival of Dalmatian (Croatian) gum diggers towards the end of the nineteenth century. More information about the gumfields is available at the Far North Regional Museum which features an impressive display of polished kauri gum. Apart from the Cape Reinga tours, there are also organised excursions to the historic gumfields starting from Kaitaia.

The return journey The route back to Auckland follows SH1 as far south as Mangamuka Bridge from where it takes a more scenic road to Kohukohu on the north shore of Hokianga Harbour. However, those who wish to visit

Ninety Mile Beach Despite the name, Ninety Mile Beach stretches ÔonlyÕ some sixty miles from west of Kaitaia to a point just short of Cape Maria Van Diemen in the far north. An unbroken stretch of white sand facing the Tasman Sea, the beach is also home to the toheroa, a prized New Zealand delicacy. These shellfish are protected and can only be harvested when populations have reached a satisfactory level. The most comfortable way to appreciate the beautiful coastal scenery is on one of the bus tours starting from Kaitaia or the Bay of Islands. Private motorists must inform themselves about the tides before setting out. It should also be noted that most car rental firms do not allow their vehicles to be driven along the beach.

68

N o r t h l a n d

the historic mission station at Waimate North will have to continue along SH1 in the direction of Ohaeawai. This alternative also allows a dip in the hot springs near Ngawha, a short distance north-east of Kaikohe.

Omahuta Forest Sanctuary A good place to get first impressions of the giant kauri tree is Omahuta Forest Sanctuary. The signposted access road is just half a mile (1km) south of Mangamuka Bridge Ñ from the turn-off it is 8 miles (13km) to the car park. A half-hour walk through native bush leads from here to a grove of kauris, the largest of which, ÔHokiangaÕ, rises to a height of 177ft (54m). This sanctuary, along with the neighbouring Puketi Forest , is also home to rare native birds such as kokakos, kaka parrots and kiwis. A splash of colour is sometimes provided by rosella parakeets, originally natives of Australia.

The road to Kohukohu enters a part of Northland virtually untouched by tourism. Here the clocks seem to tick slower, though Hokianga Harbour was once the scene of a lively kauri timber industry. However the majority of trees had already been felled by the early

1900Õs and with them went the regionÕs prosperity. Once an important timber settlement, Kohukohu now sits somewhat forgotten on the shore. A car ferry links this small town to Rawene on the opposite side. Rawene has a lovely setting near the bay and is worth a brief stop if only to see Clendon House, a colonial building dating from the 1860Õs. Those with an interest in colonial history might also find the trip to Mangungu Mission House well worthwhile. Built by Wesleyan missionaries around 1838, it occupies an elevated site commanding wonderful views over the sea. The mission house lies between Horeke and Rangiahua at the northern end of Hokianga Harbour. The road south continues via the beach resorts of Opononi and Omapere before it enters Waipoua Kauri Forest , the largest remnant of the great forests that once covered Northland. Waipoua Kauri Forest is justly famed for the huge kauris that are still plentiful here. One veritable forest giant is known as Tane Mahuta (God of the Forest), an immense tree with an estimated age of 1,200 years, a girth of over 42ft (13m) and a height approaching 171ft (52m). It is the largest known tree in New Zealand. No less impressive is Te Matua Ngahere (Father of the Forest) which is 98ft (30m) high, has a girth exceeding 52ft (16m) and could be close to 2,000 years old. Both trees are signposted from the main road. A bit further south, more kauri trees can be seen in the course of a walk through the smaller Trounson Kauri Park . 69

N o r t h l a n d

Above: Dawn at Ngunguru

Left: Walking on the beach, or just lazing about in the sun, the Bay of Islands with its superb scenery offers the perfect background Below: Northland Bush-Waipoua Forest

70

N o r t h l a n d

Dargaville is yet another Northland town that owes its origins to the kauri gum and timber industry. The main point of interest is the Northern Wairoa Museum (Maritime Museum) with its displays from the pioneering days, Maori artefacts and maritime exhibits. For a dip in the briny, follow the road west to Baylys Beach. SH12 follows the Wairoa River south of Dargaville before swinging east around Kaipara Harbour . The Harbour is in fact a system of drowned river valleys and its shores are worth exploring for those seeking that pretty little spot away from it all. At Matakohe is one of NorthlandÕs best kauri museums, the Otamatea Kauri and Pioneer

Museum. It boasts the worldÕs largest collection of kauri gum in all its various forms, from unpolished lump to finely-crafted ornament. At Brynderwyn SH12 joins SH1 but, rather than return directly to Auckland, it is much nicer to ease oneÕs way back into the big city by branching off at Wellsford and following SH16 along the eastern reaches of Kaipara Harbour. Near Helensville, Parakai Hot Springs is the ideal place to relax after a long dayÕs sight-seeing. To Auckland it is only another 31 miles (50km) through the fruit and winegrowing country around Kumeu. Below: Cape Maria Van Diemen (near Cape Reinga) was named by explorer Abel Tasman

71

A

Northland

ACTIVITIES Bay of Islands

Ninety Mile Beach

Boat Trips

From Kaitaia & Doubtless Bay: Being closer to Ninety Mile Beach the bus tours are cheaper from either Doubtless Bay or Kaitaia than from the Bay of Islands. Operating from Kaitaia are Sand Safaris (☎ (09) 408 1778) at 221 Commerce St & Tall Tale Travel ÔN Tours (☎ (09) 408 0870) at 123B Commerce St. Nor-East Coachlines (☎ (09) 406 0244) operate from Mangonui. Travel ÔN Tours also offers a tour to Te Rarawa Marae, a unique opportunity to learn a bit about modern Maori culture. From Paihia & Kerikeri: Fullers ÔCape Reinga Ñ WandererÕ trip is an all day trip and is available all year round. Buses depart Paihia at 7.30am and Kerikeri at 8am.

The following cruises are offered by Fullers Northland but a wide variety of other trips are offered by smaller operators as well. Cruises start from Paihia and Russell. Departures from Russell are usually 10-15 mins later. Trips can be booked at Fullers offices in Paihia ☎ (09) 402 7421, Russell ☎ (09) 403 7866 or Auckland, Bay of Islands Travel Centre in Downtown Shopping Centre (Shop 2 facing Customs St) ☎ (09) 358 0259.

The Cream Trip (51/2 hrs): daily from October-May. Departs Paihia 10am. June-September departs Mon, Wed, Thurs & Sat. Cape Brett (Hole in the Rock) Cruise (4hrs): daily October-May. Departs 9am & 1.30pm. Boat is a high speed catamaran. R. Tucker Thompson (6hrs): daily November-May. Departs 9.30am. This cruise takes place aboard a sailing ship. Lunch included.

Kawakawa Steam Train Kawakawa to Opua (45 mins): daily except Fri in summer. In winter Sat, Sun, Mon & Tues.

Kerikeri

Paihia Dolphin Swimming Swims with the dolphins are offered by Fullers Northland (Dolphin Encounters) and Dolphin Discoveries (☎ (09) 403 7350), both of which operate out of Paihia and Russell. Season: all year

Sea Kayaking Kayak hire and sea kayak trips are offered by a number of operators. For more details contact the local Visitor Information Centre.

Boat Trips

Russell

Kerikeri River Cruise on M.V. Belfast: Departs Stone Store Wharf hourly ☎ (09) 407 8276.

Dolphin Swimming

72

See Paihia above.

A Sea Kayaking For addresses and details contact the Visitor Information Centre.

Whangaroa Boat Trips Snow Cloud: This yacht does full day trips out to the Cavalli Islands. Very good value ☎ (09) 405 0523.

Sea Fever Cruises do bay cruises. For more information contact the Boyd Gallery, Whangaroa ☎ (09) 405 0230.

Sea Kayaking For addresses and details contact the local Visitor Information Centre.

ACCOMMODATION See pages 288 and 300 in the FactFile for the accommodation and restaurant rating guide

Paihia Peppertree Lodge $ (Backpackers) 15 Kings Road ☎/Fax (09) 402 6122 Close to town and beach. Abba Villa $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 21 School Rd ☎/Fax (09) 402 8066 Non-smoking, close to town.

Russell Russell Lodge, Motel & Backpackers $ Chapel St PO Box 33 ☎ (09) 403 7640 Fax (09) 403 7641 Swimming pool, central location.

Duke of Marlborough Hotel $$ The Strand PO Box 52 ☎ (09) 403 7829 Fax (09) 403 7760 Colonial style hotel directly on waterfront.

Whangarei Central City (Hatea House) Backpackers $ 67 Hatea Drive ☎ (09) 437 6174 Fax (09) 437 6141 Kayaks for rent, cave tours. Whangarei Falls Caravan Park $ Ngunguru Road Tikipunga ☎ (09) 437 0609 3 miles (5km) from town. Tent sites, cabins and bunkrooms. Aaron Court Motel $$ 22 Wolfe St ☎/Fax (09) 438 9139 Freephone 0800 730 731 73

A

Above: Dune Riders, Ninety Mile Beach

Left:

Waitangi Golf Course

Below: Big-game fishing trips start from Paihia and Russell

Below: R Tucker Thompson, Bay of Islands

74

Northland

A

EATING OUT Paihia

Whangarei

CafŽ Over the Bay * (BYO/Licensed) Waterfront ☎ (09) 403 7080 Overlooks wharf and bay. Seafood and snacks.

RevaÕs Pizza Parlour * (BYO/Licensed) 15 Dent Street ☎ (09) 438 8969 A mixture of Italian and Mexican food.

Bistro 40 *** 40 Marsden Road ☎ (09) 402 7444 Excellent seafood. In the same building Only Seafood is also good.

Le Grand Monet *** (BYO/Licensed) The Grand Hotel 2 Bank Street ☎ (09) 438 6282 The menu here has a French influence.

Russell The Gables *** The Strand ☎ (09) 403 7618 Set in an historic building built in 1847. Cuisine is of a high standard.

Above: Café, Town Basin, Whangarei Left:

Poor Knights Islands — ready to dive

75

A

Northland

PLACES TO VISIT Dargaville

Kerikeri

Northern Wairoa Museum (Maritime Museum) Harding Park. Open: daily 9am-4pm.

Kemp House & Old Stone Store Kerikeri Basin Open: daily 10am-12.30pm, 1.30-4.30pm except Xmas & Good Friday.

Helensville

RewaÕs Village Kerikeri Basin Open: daily 10am-5pm.

Parakai Hot Springs (Aquatic Park) 21/2 miles (4km) south of town at Parakai. Open: daily 10am-10pm.

Matakohe

Mangungu Mission House Open: 12noon-4pm weekends & summer school holidays.

Otamatea Kauri & Pioneer Museum Open: daily 9am-5pm. Refreshments at Gumdiggers Tearooms.

Houhora Heads

Paihia

Wagener Museum Open: daily 8am-5.30pm.

Kelly TarltonÕs Shipwreck Museum Next to bridge, 550yds (500m) south of Treaty House. Open: 10am-10pm. Cafe.

Horeke

Kaitaia Far North Regional Museum Commerce Street Open: Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Weekends 1pm-5pm.

Kawau Island Ferry departs several times daily. Earliest sailing is at 7.45am and last sailing at 2pm. Fullers Kawau Ferries Ltd also offers a variety of longer cruises on a daily basis in summer. The Royal Mail Run (NZÕs longest by boat) departs at 10.30am daily. Departure point is Sandspit, east of Warkworth. For further information and reservations ☎ (09) 425 8006. Fax (09) 425 7650.

76

Rawene Clendon House Open: daily 10am-4pm except Xmas & Good Friday.

Russell Pompallier House Open: daily 10am-5pm except Xmas & Good Friday. Russell Museum (Captain Cook Memorial Museum) York Street. Open: daily 10am-4pm.

A Waimate North

Whangarei

Te Waimate Mission House Open: daily 10am-12.30pm, 1.30-4.30pm except Xmas & Good Friday.

Clapham Clock Museum Town Basin, Quayside Open: daily 10am-4pm.

Waiwera Waiwera Thermal Pools Open: daily 9am-10pm, Fri & Sat until 11pm.

Waitangi National Reserve Open: daily 9am-5pm. Admission for children is free.

Northland Breweries 104 Lower Dent Street Open: 9am-6pm Mon-Sat. Free beer tasting and tours available. Whangarei Museum (Northland Regional Museum) On Road to Dargaville, SH14. Open: daily 10am-4pm

VISITOR INFORMATION & PARK VISITOR CENTRES Bay of Islands Maritime Park

Waiheke Island

Visitor Centre, The Strand, PO Box 134, Russell Open: daily 9am-5pm. ☎ (09) 403 7685

2 Korora Road, Oneroa ☎ (09) 372 9999 Fax (09) 372 9919

Dargaville Normanby Street ☎/Fax (09) 439 8360

Waipoua Forest Visitor Centre, Private Bag, Dargaville ☎ (09) 439 0605

Kaitaia

Whangarei

Northland Information Centre, Jaycee Park, North Road ☎/Fax (09) 408 0879

Tarewa Park, Otaika Road Open: daily 8.30am-5pm. ☎ (09) 438 1079 Fax (09) 438 2943 Also information about scuba diving around Poor Knights Islands.

Paihia Information Bay Of Islands, Marsden Road, PO Box 70 Open: daily 8am-5pm. ☎ (09) 402 7426 Fax (09) 402 7301

Waipoua Kauri Forest

77

Port Jackson

COROMANDEL, WAIKATO & KING COUNTRY

Mount Moehau

Port Charles Colville Kuaotunu Opito Bay

Coromandel

Waiheke Island

Cooks Beach

25

Whitianga Kaimarama

Hahei Whenuakite

309

Coroglen

Tairua Pauanui

Tapu Coromandel Forest Park

Auckland

Firth of Thames

25 25 A

Kauaeranga

Whangamata

Thames 1

Hot Springs Miranda

Waihi Beach

Coromandel Forest Park

25 26

Waihi Historical Maritime Park

2

Paeroa

2

27

p a Riv e r

Cambridge

29

1

Te Awamutu 31 3

W a i ka t o Ri v e r

Kawhia

Putaruru

Otorohanga Waitomo Caves

1

Kiwi House & Native Bird Park Hangatiki Te Kuiti

To New Plymouth

78

Tauranga

Matamata

r

Wa i

23

Te Mata

Te Aroha

ver

26

ve Pi a k o Ri

Ri v e r

Morrinsville

Hamilton

Raglan

W a ih o u Ri

W a i ka t o

Huntly

Te Tokanganui-a-Noho

0 0

10 10

20kms

20kmiles

COROMANDEL, WAIKATO & KING COUNTRY Rugged, wild and densely forested, the Coromandel Peninsula pokes into the sea like a gnarled finger raised admonishingly at the urban sprawl of Auckland on the other side of the Hauraki Gulf. Settlement on the peninsula is relatively sparse and limited to the ragged coastal fringes where, especially on the east coast, the visitor can find some excellent beaches. Though the peninsula has retained much of its natural grandeur and is now protected as a forest park, it did not escape nineteenth century New ZealandÕs hunger for gold, kauri gum (used in varnish) and timber. The gold and gum booms were relatively short-lived, but the tree-fellers only stopped after they had decimated the once extensive kauri forests. The peninsula still has large deposits of gold, silver, zinc and lead and some locals fear that commercial interests could again threaten an ecosystem that

is still recovering from the excesses of the past. The Waikato encompasses the area to the south of Auckland and the Coromandel Peninsula. In contrast to the Coromandel, it is an area of broad fertile plains which support some of the richest farmlands not only in New Zealand but in the world. Though mostly famed for its highly productive dairy farms, horticulture has also become important in recent years. Hub of the region is Hamilton on the banks of the Waikato River

Above: Sea kayaking is an ideal way to explore the lovely Coromandel coastline

79

C o r o m a n d e l

which, with a total length of 264 miles (425km), is the longest river in New Zealand. The King Country , which lies to the south of the Waikato, gets its name from the Maori King Movement. This movement was formed by a number of North Island tribes who felt that the only way to stop further European encroachment on their lands was to stop feuding among themselves and to unite under a common leader. Potatau I was proclaimed the first Maori King in 1858. Today the movement is led by Queen Te Ata-i-rangi-kaahu, who has her base at Ngaruawahia. During the land wars, the King

&

W a i k a t o

Country was a refuge for those Maori who were struggling against colonial rule and for many years afterwards it was strictly off-limits for any Europeans. It was not until the 1880Õs that local chiefs finally allowed the region to be surveyed and the first European settlers were able to enter the area without fear for their safety. Physically, the King Country has more in common with the Coromandel than the Waikato. The terrain is very rugged with many areas still covered by a luxuriant blanket of native forest. The principal towns are Otorohanga, Te Kuiti and Taumarunui.

¥ ROUTE 2 ¥ AROUND THE COROMANDEL PENINSULA From Auckland the route to Coromandel follows SH1 over the Bombay Hills then turns east along SH2 and SH25 to Thames, gateway to the Coromandel.

Touring Note This tour of the Coromandel Peninsula is also suitable for cyclists. The sections that each can be cycled comfortably in a day are as follows: Thames to Coromandel; Coromandel to Fletcher Bay; Coromandel to Whitianga via the 309 Road; Whitianga to Tairua; and Tairua to Whangamata. Many towns on the Peninsula have outlets where cycles can be hired. See Additional Information for addresses.

Thames The largest settlement on the peninsula can look back on an eventful history as a gold rush town. In 1867 80

the rich ÔShotoverÕ strike on the nearby Kuranui stream, initiated a rush to the Thames area that reached its peak in 1871. For those who want to look for reminders of

C o r o m a n d e l

the gold rush days, the Information Office in Queen Street can give tips about gold-mining relics in the vicinity. Among these remainders is the gold mine and stamper battery at the north end of town. In view of the wide variety of gemstones that are to be found on the peninsula, an interesting place to visit is the School of Mines Museum. It claims to have the most comprehensive collection of mineral samples in the country. Roughly 18 1 /2 miles (30km) west of Thames, at Miranda , is a popular thermal springs complex. A good place to start exploring the rugged hill-country of Coromandel Forest Park is the Kauaeranga Valley , a few miles south-east of Thames. There is an Information Centre here where visitors can learn about the old kauri logging industry and the ecology of the area. Some of the shorter signposted tracks in the valley can be walked in twenty minutes, others would require five hours or more. Before travelling north, selfcaterers should bear in mind that Thames is perhaps the best place on the Peninsula to buy supplies. The Goldfields Shopping Centre with the Pak ÔN Save supermarket is comparatively cheap and has a wide range of both fresh and canned produce. It is located off Brown Street.

Coromandel Avoiding the rugged interior, the road to Coromandel hugs the coast, passing on its way enticing sandy beaches and idyllic little bays dotted with yachts. Coromandel township has managed to retain some of its colonial character in a few lovely old buildings from

&

W a i k a t o

Short cut to Whitianga At Tapu a narrow, largely unsealed scenic road branches off the main route to traverse the Coromandel Range in the direction of Coroglen. This route would make an interesting short-cut to Whitianga for those in a hurry to get to the peninsulaÕs best beaches. The many tree-ferns and nikau palms lining the road give a real subtropical feeling to the forest here. One signposted walk leads off the road to a 1,200 year old kauri that is something of a curiosity with its nearly square trunk. Also worth a stop along the way are the beautifully land-scaped Rapaura Water Gardens. the Victorian era. It was here that gold was first discovered in New Zealand in 1852, but today the townÕs prosperity rests in its function serving the surrounding dairy farms and as a popular holiday resort. Stores selling handicrafts, along with potterÕs workshops hint at the lifestyle that has attracted many artists and crafts-people to this quiet part of the country. Not that Ôdropping-outÕ means being impractical: the potter Barry Brickell originally built himself a little railway to transport clay to his workshop, but now helps make it pay by offering rides to tourists. The Coromandel School of Mines Museum recalls the gold rush days 81

C o r o m a n d e l

&

W a i k a t o

Above: A rugged chain of hills form the backbone of the Coromandel Peninsula

and a working stamper battery just north of town shows how gold was separated from quarz. Of all the larger settlements on the Peninsula it is Coromandel that has the most relaxed atmosphere.

North of Coromandel The area north of Coromandel is only sparsely settled. The last chance to buy supplies for those travelling to the tip of the peninsula is at Colville . A dusty gravel road skirts the flanks of Mt. Moehau which lies within an area sacred to the Maori. The strenuous climb to the top (8 hours return) begins by Te Hope Stream and is rewarded with the best views on the entire peninsula. In the course of this hike there is a (slight) chance of spotting a very rare native frog, Leiopelma archeyi . It is the most primitive of all known frogs and is strictly protected; on 82

no account should it be disturbed! After winding its way through spectacular coastal scenery the road eventually arrives at Port Jackson which greets visitors with a fine beach and camping site. Camping is also possible at Fletcher Bay, just a little further on at roadÕs end. Those without a tent can stay at Fletcher Bay Backpackers, a good base for mountain biking, fishing, snorkelling and sea kayaking (bookings essential ☎ (07)868 8898 or 868 8808). Sheltered by pohutukawa trees, the bay is not only picturesque but also the starting point for the Coromandel Walkway to Stony Bay, a beautiful coastal track (6 hours round trip). To get to the beaches at Port Charles on the east coast, branch off the Port Jackson road at Whangaahei, a short distance north of Colville. The road back to Coromandel goes via Waikawau and Kennedy Bay.

C o r o m a n d e l

Coromandel to Whitianga There are two possibilities for continuing on from Coromandel to Whitianga, both of which involve crossing the rugged Coromandel Range. SH25 is the longer (1 1 /4 hours) route. It offers some fine views over the coastal scenery, especially from its highest point (1,138ft/347m), and actually touches the coast at intervals between Te Rerenga and Kuaotunu. Though also only partly sealed, it is certainly easier to drive than the Ô309Õ Road described below, which offers no seascapes. On the SH25 route, the township of Kuaotunu is worth a mention as

&

W a i k a t o

it is popular for its beaches and fishing spots. A scenic drive known as Black Jack Road leads from here to secluded Opito Bay . Those who do not mind narrow, winding, unsealed roads will find the Ô309Õ Road to Whitianga just as scenic as SH25 and it certainly gives you a better idea of the CoromandelÕs hilly, bush-clad interior. Like the Coroglen Road, it goes through some beautiful stretches of regenerating native forest. The shortest route to Whitianga (around 45 minutes) also offers a number of attractions along the way. First up is Harmony Gardens , a privately owned garden with an idyllic setting alongside the Waiau River. Waiau Waterworks is a short distance further on and features

Below: View from Castle Rock, off the ‘309’ road

83

C o r o m a n d e l

Touring Note The 309 Road combined with SH25 between Whitianga and Coromandel makes an interesting loop. Starting from Coromandel, follow the 309 to Whitianga and then SH25 back to Coromandel. The trip will be a pleasant dayÕs outing and gives you a very good impression of the PeninsulaÕs varied scenery.

various kinetic sculptures and machines, all of which are worked by water. Castle Rock requires a detour off the 309 just beyond the Waterworks. A one mile (2km) drive up through pine forest leads to the start of the walking track. The hill is in fact the core of an old volcano (a volcanic plug). It requires about 1 1 /4 hours to the top and back. Further along the road, Chiltern Reserve is a good picnic spot whereas the bush-fringed pool at the foot of Waiau Falls offers the chance of a dip. Remnants of the CoromandelÕs once extensive Kauri forest can be seen at the Kauri Grove . A short walk through native bush leads to the trees. After Egan Park, where you can also go picnicking or swimming, the 309 Road joins SH25 to Whitianga. Whitianga is especially favoured as a holiday resort among biggame fishing enthusiasts. For other holiday-makers, the town offers fine beaches, seafood restaurants, launch trips and a variety of other 84

&

W a i k a t o

water-based activities. A ferry regularly crosses the narrow waterway to Ferry Landing, the site of an old stone wharf built in 1837. From the wharf it is possible to do a few pleasant walks. Ferry Landing and a number of other interesting places can also be reached by road via Coroglen Ñ the turn-off is a short distance further on at Whenuakite.

Cooks Beach Cooks Beach is so named because it was here that Captain Cook hoisted the British flag and formally took possession of the country in the name of King George III. The purpose of CookÕs stay was not, however, merely to expand the British Empire. While here, he and his party observed the transit of Mercury and, to mark the significance of these scientific investigations, he named the bay Mercury Bay. There is a memorial to CookÕs visit on Shakespeare Cliffs. You can drive to the top of the cliffs where the view is simply magnificent. A flight of steps hewn from the rock leads down to the untouched shores of Lonely Bay. East of Cooks Beach, Hahei not only has a lovely beach, but also offers a chance to stretch the legs in the course of a 40 minute scenic walk to Cathedral Cove . The cove lies to the north of Hahei beach and is only accessible at low tide.

C o r o m a n d e l

Hot Water Beach is situated to the south and is not to be missed! At low tide, bathers dig shallow holes and then bask in the thermally heated water which rises through the sand. Either borrow a spade or hire one from Hot Water Beach Store .

Whitianga to Paeroa Further south along SH25 is Tairua . This beautifully located beach resort looks across Tairua Harbour to the more expensive resort of Pauanui. The drive, or walk, up to Paku summit is a must when in Tairua as the views are fantastic. Guided tours starting from Pauanui include trips into the Coromandel Range and to abandoned gold mines. Visitors who simply want to give themselves a real treat could spend a night or two at PauanuiÕs luxury Puka Park Lodge. The next resort on the coast is perhaps the liveliest of them all. Whangamata has the best surfing on the entire peninsula, and in summer, half the population seems to be made up of bronzed, boardcarrying surfies. With the emphasis on the outdoors, holiday-makers can choose between scuba diving, cycling, canoeing and fishing trips. Those without the gear can hire it here.

Waihi After Whangamata the road winds inland to Waihi. This is the last major stop on the Coromandel Peninsula and, in view of the regionÕs gold mining past, it is perhaps appropriate that the tour ends here at the site of the biggest gold find in New ZealandÕs history.

&

W a i k a t o

The original Martha Mine was discovered in 1878 and by 1908 it was one of the worldÕs richest. After closing down in 1952 the mine was reopened in 1988 as new techniques made the extraction of gold profitable again. However, the reopening was preceded by a protracted conflict with environmentalists who wanted to prevent further despoliation of the region due to commercial mining interests. It is estimated that over a period of twelve years, the new Martha Mine will produce about 300,000 ounces of silver and 55,000 ounces of gold annually. The Waihi Arts Centre and Museum illustrates the history of the mine with photos, maps and models. The mine itself can be visited as part of a conducted tour. During the summer months, an added attraction is provided by the Goldfields Steam Train Society which runs a vintage railway between Waihi and Waikino. An excursion to the highly popular Waihi Beach can be done as part of a round trip. Follow the signposted road east to Waihi Beach, where there is excellent swimming and surfing, then return via Athenree Gorge and Waimata . Route 4 can be joined by following SH2 south via Waimate and Katikati to Tauranga.

Paeroa The Karangahake Gorge links Waihi to Paeroa and was once alive with gold mining towns that have since faded or vanished completely. Following a disused railway through the gorge is the Karangahake Gorge Historic Walkway , a great way to come in closer contact with the history of the area. 85

C o r o m a n d e l

Paeroa is best known in New Zealand as the home of ÔLemon and PaeroaÕ, a soft drink made using the waters of a local mineral spring. North of town it is worthwhile visiting the Historical Maritime Park . A number of old

&

W a i k a t o

boats have been restored here to their former glory, including a vintage paddle steamer. Otherwise Paeroa serves as departure point for an exploration of the Waikato: follow SH26 south-west to Hamilton.

¥ ROUTE 3 ¥ THROUGH THE WAIK ATO & KING COUNTR Y Hamilton The main road south from Auckland (SH1) leads direct to Hamilton, New ZealandÕs largest inland city. At the heart of rich farming country, the city has grown rapidly along the banks of the Waikato River . Lovely riverside parks and a lake near the City Centre are among the cityÕs chief attractions. Recalling the days when the Waikato River was an important transportation route, is the Rangiriri Riverboat in Memorial Park , near the riverÕs eastern bank. However, the best way to experience some of the romance of the old riverboat days is to take a trip on the paddle steamer M.V. Waipa Delta which departs from Parana Memorial Park. Further insight into the regionÕs past is offered by the Waikato Museum of Art and History . Along with its collections of fine art, the museumÕs most interesting exhibit is the magnificent Maori war canoe Te Winika (1838). Contemporary Maori carving is also on display and there is a museum shop offering work by local craftspeople. 86

The direct route to Te Kuiti at the end of this tour follows SH3 south from Hamilton. However a more scenic alternative is to make a detour to the west coast via Raglan and Kawhia and to rejoin SH3 at Otorohanga.

The SH3 Of interest on the direct route is the National Agricultural Heritage complex at Mystery Creek. Signposted from the main road, this museum complex presents a fascinating panorama of New Zealand farming from the earliest days to now. Visitors can try their hands at milking cows, stroll through a colonial village or take rides on wagons drawn by huge Clydesdale horses. Further south, Te Awamutu is also worth a longer stop. St JohnÕs Anglican Church(1854) is one of the oldest churches in the country, while next door the modern New Parish Church of St John (1965) can

C o r o m a n d e l

&

W a i k a t o

Above: Relaxing on Hot Water Beach Below: Disused petrol pumps on the Port Jackson Road: after Colville there are no more chances to tank the car

to Te Kuiti claim an original and interesting interior. An excellent, if small, museum is the Te Awamutu and District Museum. Exhibits deal with the Waikato Land Wars between Maori and white settlers and the pioneer days in general. At the Aotearoa Centre, visitors can not only watch Maori carvers at work but also have the opportunity to buy their finished products. Tours of the Otawhao meeting house, where there are more examples of contemporary Maori carving to be admired, are arranged by the Aotearoa Centre.

87

C o r o m a n d e l

&

W a i k a t o

Raglan to Kawhia First stop for those who have decided on the longer scenic route is Raglan, nearly 31 miles (50km) to the west of Hamilton on SH23. Outside the busy holiday season, this seaside resort is a haven of peace with a pretty natural bay providing lots of additional charm. The road to Kawhia goes south from Raglan via Te Mata Ñ please note that this road is sealed only as far as Te Mata . An attraction on the way is Bridal Veil Falls . The waterfall is signposted from the road and is accessible along a short track through dense bush. Kawhia is a wonderfully isolated little town, mainly visited by local holiday-makers who value the picturesque seclusion of the place. A special attraction is Te Puia Beach, where hot water springs rise up through the sands. Friends of down-to-earth food might like to know that Kawhia Takeaways is acclaimed for the best fish and chips in the area. If you like your fish fresh, then fishing trips start from the wharf. From Kawhia SH31 winds its way through rugged hill country to join SH3 at Otorohanga . A must for those with an interest in wildlife is the Kiwi House and Native Bird Park . Here it is possible to get close up views of the shy and semi-nocturnal kiwi. Other native birds can be seen in a walk-through aviary.

Te Kuiti Te Kuiti lies 12 1 /2 miles (20km) south of Waitomo Caves on SH3. 88

Visiting Near Hangatiki, turn west off SH3 to Waitomo Caves. This extensive system of limestone caves is one of New ZealandÕs most famous attractions. Most of the attention focuses on the Waitomo Cave with its glow-worm grotto, entered by boat on an underground river. Unrelated to their European counterparts, the glow-worms use light to trap insects on long sticky threads they dangle below themselves. Though found throughout the country, it is only at Waitomo that they shine in such impressive numbers. Nearby Aranui Cave is mainly interesting for its spectacular limestone formations. To avoid crowds during the holiday season it is best to plan a visit for the early morning or late afternoon. For thrill-seekers, Waitomo has a few other unique attractions in the Ônot to be missedÕ category. TheLost World Trip consists of being lowered 328ft (100m) by rope into the depths of the Mangaopu Cave. Those who have not fainted on the way down can then take part in a five hour walk through an awe-inspiring subterranean world. If that was not enough

C o r o m a n d e l

Waitomo to still the thirst for adventure, then a bit of black water rafting in Ruakuri Cave might be just the thing. Equipped with protective hat, torch and rubber tube you are whisked through the cave by a swift flowing stream. Among the less strenuous alternatives to the above activities is a visit to the Waitomo Museum of Caves. The museum has a collection of fossils found within the caves along with very informative displays offering a fascinating insight into the natural history of the area. Unrelated to the topic of caves, but nonetheless interesting, is Ohaki Maori Village and Weaving Centre. Here it is Maori culture that takes pride of place; traditional weavers can be watched at work and visitors can wander through a reconstructed pre-European Maori pa. Visitors who have decided to spend a day or two at Waitomo could consider an excursion to the spectacular Marokopa Falls, further west of Waitomo on the road to Marokopa. Closer at hand is the Waitomo Walkway. This half-day walk starts by the museum and goes through some beautiful bush scenery.

&

W a i k a t o

Of particular interest here is the beautifully carved meeting house Te Tokanganui-a-Noho . It was built in 1878 by followers of the famous Maori guerilla leader Te Kooti (circa 1830-93), who found refuge here from colonial troops. Permission must be obtained before entering the building but it is worth the effort as one seldom has the chance of seeing a carved meeting house of such historical and artistic significance. Inquire at the tourist office. South-east of Te Kuiti, Pureora Forest Park encompasses one of the North IslandÕs last significant stands of podocarp forest; in other words, a forest made up of native trees like miro, rimu, totara, and matai. It is also home to a large variety of native birds, including the very rare kokako. A good place to see kokakos is at the end of Bismarck Road, though this means rising very early in the morning. The Park Visitor Centre is on the Waimiha Road which branches off SH30 between Te Kuiti and Mangakino. The Totara Walk nature trail as well as other walks can be undertaken from here.

Onwards From Te Kuiti there are a number of possibilities for the onward journey: SH3 provides a very scenic connection to New Plymouth on Route 5, SH30 leads to the thermal region of Rotorua and SH4 leads directly south to the volcanoes of Tongariro National Park.

89

A

Above: Glow-worm cave, Waitomo Below: Breeding champion thoroughbreds is a lucrative activity in a country where betting on the horses is an extremely popular form of gambling. This bloodstock farm is located near Cambridge, Waikato Opposite page: Brian Boru Hotel, Thames

90

Coromandel & Waikato

A

ACTIVITIES Coromandel

Kawhia

Sea Kayaking

Fishing Trips

Papa Aroha Holiday Park Colville Rd ☎/Fax (07) 866 8818 Kayaks for hire

Details at wharf ☎ (07) 871 6305

Fletcher Bay

Sharon Johansen Outdoor Guiding Services Ltd Settlement Rd ☎/Fax (07) 864 8731 Half day or full day treks through CoromandelÕs wilderness areas.

Sea Kayaking Fletcher Bay Backpackers PO Box 8, Colville ☎ (07) 868 8808 or 868 8898

Pauanui Beach Tramping

Thames

Hahei

Agatha Christie Weekends

Boat Trips

Brian Boru Historic Hotel Cnr Richmond & Pollen Sts ☎ (07) 868 6523 Fax (07) 868 9760 Twice monthly, guests can take part in a murder mystery ˆ la Agatha Christie. The charming old hotel, established in 1868, offers the perfect background.

Hahei Explorer 12 Beach Rd ☎ (07 )866 3910 Also snorkelling trips.

Hamilton Boat Trips M.V. Waipa Delta Memorial Park, Memorial Drive ☎ (07) 854 9415 Morning Tea Cruise Sundays 10am. Daily Luncheon Cruise 12.30pm, Afternoon Tea Cruise 3pm & Moonlight Cruise 7pm.

Kauaeranga Valley Tramping Sunkist Lodge Shuttle Thames 506 Brown St ☎ (07) 868 8808 Sunkist Lodge offers a shuttle (on demand) from Thames to the walking tracks of the Kauaeranga Valley. 91

A

Coromandel & Waikato

Mountain Biking

Fishing Trips

Price & Richards 430 Pollen St ☎ (07) 868 6157 Mountain bike hire.

Ocean Adventures 8 Laura Place, ☎ (07) 866 5005 Fishing, big game fishing and diving. Fishing tackle and bait included in price.

Sea Kayaking Coromandel Kayakers 122 Tararu Creek Rd ☎ (07) 868 7037

Waihi Steam Train Goldfields Steam Train Wrigley Street Open: daily between Waihi and Waikino. Trip takes 1 hour. ☎ (07) 863 8251

Tramping Goldfield Treks & Tours 16 Clarke St ☎ (07) 863 7699 Organised treks in the Coromandel region. Karangahake Walkway Shuttle 30 Mackay St ☎ (07) 863 8511 Operates summer weekends & school holidays, every half to one hour. Runs from Waikino Station, Owharoa Falls & Crown Battery to the walkway.

Whitianga Dolphin Swimming Dolphin Quest c/o Whitianga Information Centre ☎ (07) 866 5555 Apart from swims with the dolphins, their glass-bottom boat tours are a good alternative for those who want to view the underwater world without getting wet. 92

Waipounamu Sportfishing Ferry Landing ☎ (025) 924 899 Also dolphin & whale watching.

Mountain Biking Power Cycle Rentals Whitianga Sports Centre 32 Albert St ☎ (07) 866 5295 Motorised mountain bikes are also available from a number of other locations on the Coromandel. ☎ (07) 868 8488 Whitianga Mowers & Cycles 1987 15 Coghill St ☎ (07) 866 5435 Mountain bike hire.

Sea Kayaking Mercury Bay Sea Kayaks 17 Arthur St ☎/Fax (07) 866 2358

Waitomo Cave Adventures Black Water Rafting PO Box 13 ☎ (07) 878 6219 Depart: Museum of Caves. 3-6 hour trips through caves. Lost World Adventures Ltd Lost World & Haggas Honking Holes PO Box 29 ☎ (07) 878 7788 Depart: Museum of Caves

A

Waitomo Down Under PO Box 24 ☎/Fax (07) 878 6577 Depart: Taware House next to Museum for cave rafting and caving (abseil into cave) adventures.

Whangamata Mountain Biking All Terrain Mountain Bike Tours 652 Port Rd ☎ (07) 865 8096

ACCOMMODATION See pages 288 asnd 300 in the FactFile for the accommodation and restaurant rating guide

Hamilton

Brian Boru Hotel $$ Pollen Street ☎ (07) 868 6523 Fax (07) 868 9760

Hamilton East Tourist Court $ 61 Cameron Road ☎ (07) 856 6220 Also camping.

Waitomo

Parklands Travel Hotel/Motel $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 24 Bridge Street ☎/Fax (07) 838 2461

Juno Hall $ (Backpackers) 2 /3 mile (1km) before Waitomo ☎ (07) 878 7649

Thames

THC Waitomo Hotel $$ Middle of town ☎ (07) 878 8228 Fax (07) 878 8858 An historic hotel built in 1908.

Sunkist Lodge $ 506 Brown Street ☎ (07) 868 8808 Fax (07) 868 7426 Freephone: 0800 800 838 Bookings for Fletcher Bay Backpackers at the northern tip of the Peninsula can be made at the Lodge. ÒThe ThamesÓ BackpackerÕs Resort $ Dickson Holiday Park Victoria Street ☎ (07) 868 7308 Fax (07) 868 7308 Also camping.

Whitianga Buffalo Beach Tourist Resort $ Cnr Eyre St & Buffalo Beach Rd ☎/Fax (07) 866 5854 Tent sites and tourist flats. AnneÕs Haven $$ Bed & Breakfast 119 Albert Street ☎ (07) 866 5550 Cosy Cat Cottage $$ Bed & Breakfast 41 South Highway ☎ (07) 866 4488 Eccentric decor! 93

A

Coromandel & Waikato

EATING OUT

Coromandel

Thames

Coromandel CafŽ $ (BYO) 36 Kapanga Road ☎ (07) 866 8495

Majestic Family Restaurant $$ (BYO) 640 Pollen Street ☎ (07) 868 6204 Seafoods are a specialty.

Success CafŽ $$ (BYO/Licensed) Kapanga Road ☎ (07) 866 7100 Specialises in seafoods.

Old Thames Restaurant $$$ 705 Pollen Street (07) 868 7207 Popular among the locals.

Hamilton

Waitomo

No.8 $$ (BYO) Alma Street ☎ (07) 838 0631 Non-smoking, Italian cuisine.

Roselands Restaurant $$$ Fullerton Road ☎ (07) 878 7611 Outdoor and indoor dining.

Left Bank CafŽ $$$ Marlborough Place Victoria Street ☎ (07) 839 3354 One of the best in Hamilton.

PLACES TO VISIT

Whitianga PJÕs Bistro & Bar $$ 31 Albert Street ☎ (07) 866 5249 The Back Porch $$ 111 Buffalo Beach Road ☎ (07) 866 5637 Seafood, New Zealand cuisine.

Coromandel

Miranda

Driving Creek Pottery & Railway Driving Creek Road Open: Trains run daily at 2pm & 4pm. During summer also at 10.30am. Trip takes 1 hour.

Hot Springs Front Miranda Road Open: daily 10am-9pm.

School of Mines Museum Rings Road Open: daily 10am-12noon & 2-4pm during summer.

Hamilton Waikato Museum of Art & History Cnr Victoria and Grantham Streets Open: daily 10am-4.30pm except Good Friday & Xmas Day. 94

Mystery Creek National Agricultural Heritage Close to Hamilton Airport, on Mystery Creek Rd Open: daily 9am-4.30pm This large museum complex incorporates the Clydesdale Museum, National Dairy Museum, Heritage Village and much else besides. Jet boat tours on Waikato River are also offered.

A Otorohanga

Waihi

Kiwi House & Native Bird Park Alex Telfer Drive Open: daily 10am-5pm. June to August closes 4pm.

Waihi Arts Centre & Museum Kenny Street Open: Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, weekends & public holidays 1.30-4pm.

Paeroa Historical Maritime Park Located on SH2 Open: daily all year except Xmas Day. Tapu-Coroglen Road Rapaura Water Gardens Open: daily 10am-5pm. Refreshments are available.

Te Awamutu Aotearoa Centre 1 Factory Rd Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-4pm, Fri 2-4pm. Te Awamutu & District Museum Roche Street Open: Tues-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat, Sun and public holidays 2-4pm.

Thames Gold Mine and Stamper Battery Northern end of town Open: 9am-4pm (summer). Tours of mine twice daily. School of Mines Museum Cochrane St Open: daily 11am-4pm. Extensive mineral collection.

The Ô309Õ Road Harmony Gardens Open: daily 9am-5pm (summer).

Waihi Gold Mining Co. Ltd PO Box 190 Open: weekday tours by prior arrangement. Tours start from Information Centre, Seddon Street. ☎ (07) 863 9880

Waitomo Ohaki Maori Village & Weaving Centre 2 /3 mile (1km) before Waitomo Open: daily 10am-4.30pm. Waitomo Caves Open: Tours of the Glow-Worm Caves take place every hour on the hour from 9am-5pm. Tours of the Aranui Caves take place at 10am, 11am, 1pm, 2pm & 3pm. Admission is free for children under 5. Waitomo Museum of Caves & Information Centre Open: daily 9am-5pm

Whitianga Purangi Winery On road to CookÕs Beach Open: daily 9am-9pm. Fruit wine tastings and a good restaurant. Winery also organises a 11/2 hour cruise on Purangi River. ☎ (07) 866 3724

Waiau Waterworks Open: daily 9am-5pm (summer).

95

A

Coromandel & Waikato

REGIONAL TRANSPORT Coromandel Peninsula Air Air Coromandel has daily flights from Auckland to Thames Coromandel, Whitianga and Pauanui. They also fly three times a week from Whitianga to Great Barrier Island. Freephone 0800 275 912 or (09) 275 9120.

Boat During the summer months there is a boat service between Tryphena on Great Barrier Island and Fletcher Bay on the Peninsula. Contact Aquaventure ☎ (09) 429 0033.

Buses InterCity has a daily service from Auckland to Thames and Murphy Buses depart AucklandÕs downtown bus terminal Monday to Friday at 1pm. From Hamilton Tavs City Connection also has a service to Thames. On the Peninsula itself Murphy Buses (☎ (07) 868 6265) run daily from Thames to Coromandel, Whitianga, Tairua and then back to Thames. The Whitehouse Backpackers in Coromandel runs a shuttle service between Coromandel and Fletcher Bay ☎ (07) 866 8468. Bookings can also be made through the Coromandel Information Centre.

Coromandel Busplan The Busplan can be used on all the various buses around the Peninsula. There are two versions of the Busplan ticket: 1. The Full Pass which includes travel around the Peninsula, as well as the return trip from Auckland. 2. The Loop Pass which includes Thames, Coromandel, Whitianga and Hahei on its loop around the Peninsula. Both tickets offer travel 7 days a week and are valid for three months. For information and reservations ☎ (09) 373 5737 or Thames (07) 868 9088, Fax (09) 358 3471. All three forms of transport can be combined with the Great Barrier & The Coromandel Pass. This includes the two hour cruise from Auckland to Great Barrier, a 30 minute flight to Whitianga and the bus from Whitianga back to Auckland. For more information freephone 0800 767 786 or (09) 429 0109.

96

A VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRES Coromandel

Te Kuiti

Council Offices, Kapanga Rd Open: Monday to Friday 9am5pm, weekends 10am-12.30pm. ☎ (07) 866 8598

Rora Street, PO Box 404 Open: Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, weekends 10am-4pm. ☎ (07) 878 8077 Fax (07) 878 7771

Hamilton Angelsea Street, PO Box 970 Open: Monday to Friday 9am4.30pm, weekends 10am-2pm. ☎ (07) 839 3580 Fax (07) 839 0794

Thames

Kauaeranga Valley Visitor Centre

Waihi

Kauaeranga Valley Road. Open: daily. ☎ (07) 868 6381

405 Queen Street, PO Box 545 Open: daily 9am-5pm, (summer). ☎ (07) 868 7284 Fax (07) 868 7584

Seddon Street ☎ (07) 863 6715

Waitomo Caves

80 Maniapoto Street, PO Box 152 ☎ (07) 873 8951

Museum of Caves Information Centre Main Street, PO Box 12 Open: daily 8.30am-5.30pm. ☎ (07) 878 7640

Paeroa

Whangamata

Public Relations Office, Belmont Rd ☎ (07) 862 8636

Port Rd ☎/Fax (07) 865 8340

Tairua

Albert Street Open: Monday to Friday 9am-5pm, weekends 9am-1pm. ☎ (07) 866 5555 Fax (07) 866 2205

Otorohanga

Main Road Shopping Centre ☎ (07) 864 7575

Whitianga

97

THE VOLCANIC HEARTLAND Volcanoes, hot-pools, geysers and crater-lakes are the common denominators linking the tours within this chapter. The region offers much of the North IslandÕs most spectacular and unique scenery, from the almost perfect volcanic cone of the now dormant Mt Taranaki (Egmont) to the sulphurous clouds hanging over the active volcano of White Island in the Bay of Plenty. With its three volcanoes, Tongariro National Park is a popular destination for trampers in summer and for skiers in winter. A highlight for all visitors is the thermal region around Rotorua, with its numerous mud-pools and geysers. Rotorua is also the heart of Maori culture, where Whakarewarewa Village offers a rare insight into traditional Maori society. On the other hand, keen anglers will certainly want to spend a few days on the shores of Lake Taupo, famed for its rainbow trout. 98

Above: Emerald Lakes, Tongariro National Park

T h e

V o l c a n i c

H e a r t l a n d

¥ ROUTE 4 ¥ FROM THE BAY OF PLENTY TO THE VOLCANIC PLATEAU Tauranga Tauranga is situated on the lovely Tauranga Harbour and can be quickly reached by taking SH2 south from Waihi (Route 2) or by following state highways 1 and 29 east from Hamilton (Route 3). Near the middle of town is the Monmouth Redoubt, a fortified site that was built during the New Zealand Land Wars. Not far away on The Strand is the Te Awanui war canoe (1973). This beautiful replica of a traditional Maori war canoe (waka) is only paddled on certain special occasions. Other places of interest recalling TaurangaÕs early history are The Elms Mission House (1847) in Mission Street and Tauranga Historic Village on 17th Avenue West. Here the colonial days are brought vividly back to life with Victorian period shops, houses, a saw mill and steam train. A bridge over the Harbour links Tauranga to the busy port of Mount Maunganui . In summer the town swells with thousands of holidaymakers attracted by the golden sands of Ocean Beach. As it extends down the coast, there is plenty of room in spite of the crowds. An added attraction is the hot saltwater pool at the foot of the ÔMountÕ, a 761ft (232m) hill that can be climbed for a splendid panorama of the bay. The route (SH2) now continues a short distance inland into kiwifruit country. Te Puke claims itself to be the ÔKiwifruit Capital of the WorldÕ

and this small furry fruit, once known as the Chinese gooseberry, has certainly done a great deal to boost the townÕs prosperity.

Kiwifruit A sub-tropical fruit that originally came from China, it has been successfully grown in a number of areas in New Zealand. Although first introduced to the country in 1907, it was not until the mid-1970Õs that it became an export hit. In 1990 export earnings reached $450 million and, although the kiwifruit boom is now over due to strong overseas competition, it is still New ZealandÕs leading horticultural product. The Kiwifruit Harvest Festival is held in May.

Whakatane & White Island After Te Puke the road returns to the coast which it follows to Whakatane. The town is mainly interesting for the excellent surfing beach at nearby Ohope, but there are also several excursions that can be booked here which might easily justify a longer stay. Especially worthwhile are the scenic flights over White (Whakaari) 99

T h e

V o l c a n i c

Island. This continuously active volcano lies about 31 miles (50km) off the coast in the Bay of Plenty . The clouds of ash and steam it belches forth are usually visible from many points along the coast, but nothing can compare to the fantastic experience of actually walking on the volcano itself. Its deeply-rutted, ash-covered slopes are pock-marked with boilinghot fumaroles (temperatures inside these volcanic vents can reach 1470¼F/800°C) and a look over the rim of one of the huge steaming craters allows a glimpse of the titanic forces that have shaped our planet. Though the island is a privately owned scenic reserve, it can be visited by either helicopter or boat from Whakatane. Vulcan Helicopters offer a three hour excursion that includes a 40 minute flight over the Bay and a guided tour of the huge crater area. The tour by boat has the advantage of being much cheaper and includes a 1 hour guided tour of the island. Other organised trips from Whakatane include dolphin swimming, jet boat rides on the Rangitaiki River , whitewater rafting on the Motu River and big game fishing in the Bay. Further south at Taneatua is the Information Centre for Urewera National Park (see Chapter 5). Trips into the park via either Ruatoki North or Matahi can be arranged at the Ranger Station in Taneatua. A bit further east, Route 6 can be joined at Opotiki.

Rotorua From Whakatane, SH30 moves inland through pockets of lush native bush and past shimmering 100

H e a r t l a n d

blue lakes to reach the famous tourist resort of Rotorua. The town lies directly on the shores of Lake Rotorua , the largest of eleven lakes in the near vicinity. Spectacular thermal activity, superb Ñ if sadly depleted Ñ stands of native bush, and traditional Maori culture, are the main ingredients that have made Rotorua one of New ZealandÕs greatest tourist attractions. RotoruaÕs steaming pits and pools have been described as Ôa foretaste of hellÕ, and judging by the crowds that come to see them, the Devil could do very good business if he decided to charge for his own fire and brimstone. However, the first thing that strikes a visitor to Rotorua is not, in fact, any particular sight but rather the pungent smell of sulphur, which is often likened to the smell of rotten eggs. Caused by a perfectly harmless natural gas associated with the regionÕs thermal activity, it does not take long to get used to. Anybody planning to spend a day or two here Ñ to be recommended if all the attractions are to be seen at leisure Ñ will find that Fenton Street offers the greatest range of accommodation. Visitors who want to give themselves a special treat should try and get a room with a thermally-heated spa pool attached.

Whakarewarewa One of RotoruaÕs main sights is at the southern end of Fenton Street: Whakarewarewa thermal area. If visitors only have time to visit one thermal area, then Whakarewarewa is the one to choose. Boiling mud pools, hot pools and geysers, draw thousands of people here every year.

T h e

V o l c a n i c

With a plume rising to nearly 100ft (30m), Pohutu is the largest geyser in New Zealand. It is also one of the more reliable ones, so there is a good chance of seeing its spectacular eruption. However, thermal activity is by no means the only reason for visiting Whakarewarewa. Rotowhio Pa is a model pa recreating the fortified settlements of the pre-European Maori. The carved gateway is especially striking. At lunchtime (12.15pm), the pa is the site of an excellent Maori folklore concert. The Maori Arts and Crafts Institute next door is also worth a look. Here Maori carvers and weavers can be watched while they work. Informative guided tours through the

H e a r t l a n d

thermal area start from the institute. At the other end of the thermal reserve is a genuine Maori village. The villagers still use the hot pools, as the Rotorua Maori have done for countless generations, for cooking, bathing and washing. A curiosity are the graves in the village cemetery which are raised above ground because of the hot earth below. Another pocket of Maori culture is Ohinemutu Maori Village , directly on the lakefront. Of particular interest is the superbly carved Tamatekapua Meeting House (1873) and St. FaithÕs Church(1910). The church is definitely worth entering as it is richly decorated with Maori carvings and traditional woven panels known as tukutuku.

The Legend of Hinemoa Those who want to undertake a cruise on Lake Rotorua, will find that the boats depart from the lakefront jetty, roughly half a kilometre south of St FaithÕs. Popular is the trip to Mokoia Island. According to what is thought to be a true story, a beautiful Maori maiden named Hinemoa lived with her tribe on the shores of the lake. She was in love with Tutanekai, a young man from another tribe who lived on the island. Unfortunately HinemoaÕs parents were not in favour of them marrying. To thwart any plans their daughter might have of joining Tutanekai, they made sure that the heavy canoes were pulled ashore every evening. But at night Hinemoa could hear her lover serenading her on his flute across the broad expanse of water that divided them. Unable to stand their forced separation any longer, she stole away one night and, buoyed up by calabashes tied around her body, swam out to meet him. On hearing what Hinemoa had done to be with her lover, her parents finally relented and consented to their union. The carved gateway at Rotowhio pa (Whakarewarewa) portrays the two lovers entwined in each others arms.

101

T h e

V o l c a n i c

Government Gardens Not far from the northern end of Fenton Street are the Government Gardens. What captures most attention here is the highly photogenic Tudor Towers (1906), a building in Elizabethan style. This former bath house is a reminder of the days when many people came to Rotorua to take advantage of the curative properties of the thermal springs. Inside the bath house is a museum with some local Maori artefacts and an art gallery. Only a short stroll from Tudor Towers, the Polynesian Pools offer visitors a chance to ease aching limbs in hot mineral waters.

Areas of thermal activity Apart from Whakarewarewa there are three other major areas of thermal activity which, however, are all some distance from Rotorua.

Tikitere

H e a r t l a n d

A popular full-day excursion is the Waimangu Round Trip which includes a visit to the Waimangu thermal area as well as a boat trip across Lake Rotomohana and Lake Tarawera to the buried village of Te Wairoa .

Waiotapu Waiotapu thermal area is only a short distance further south and has the Lady Knox Geyser as its crowning glory. The geyser is brought punctually to life at 10.15am every day with the help of a bit of soap. The soap, it seems, reduces the surface viscosity of the water below and thus allows the super-heated steam and water deeper down to release its pent up energy by erupting through the vent! Such an eruption can last up to an hour. Also to be admired are some subtlely- hued silica terraces known as The ArtistÕs Palette, the bubbling Champagne Pool and Bridal Veil Falls .

Excursions from Rotorua

A drive north-east back in the direction of Whakatane, leads to Tikitere thermal area (HellÕs Gate) where a hot waterfall, Kakahi Falls, is the undisputed highlight.

Several other destinations can be reached from Rotorua in the course of a pleasant drive.

Waimangu

Lake Tarawera

On the road south to Taupo , the eerily beautiful Waimangu Valley is the site of the Waimangu Cauldron , a large boiling lake. While here, it is worth taking the launch trip across Lake Rotomohana to the Steaming Cliffs , and the site of the once famous Pink and White Terraces which were destroyed in a violent volcanic eruption over 100 years ago.

An outing to Lake Tarawera, for instance, could be done in half a day. To get there, head north from the city on SH30 until the signposted turn-off is reached. Along the way, the Blue and Green Lakes are passed. These two lakes are famed for their contrasting colours but are best appreciated on a fine day. A little further on, the road reaches Te

102

T h e

V o l c a n i c

THE VOLCANIC HEARTLAND

H e a r t l a n d

Hamilton

Bay of Plenty Lake Rotoiti Lake Whakatane Rotoehu Hamurana Opotiki Hinehopu Ngongotaha Lake Rotorua Tikitere 30 Taneatua Lake Tarawera Rotorua

1

Te Kuiti

Te Puke

29

3

2

2

Tokoroa

Wairakei

Awakino Taumarunui Tokaanu

Ahititi

New Plymouth Oakura

Waitara

Tatu

Lake Taupo

Tahora Taranaki Pioneer 43 Village

Taupo 5

4

Rotorua

Waiotapu 5

3

Whakarewarewa Rotowhio Pa St Faith's Church Government Gardens Tudor Towers Polynesian Pools

Turangi 1

Tongariro Mount Whakapapa National Taranaki Village Park Egmont Queen Elizabeth II Stratford 45 Ohakune National Army Memorial Museum 3 49 Whanganui Park Napier Waiouru Opunake Turuturu National Park Mokai Pa Hawera Taihape

3

White Island

Mount Maunganui Tauranga

4

Hawke Bay

Mangaweka

Wanganui 30miles

0 0

30km

The Buried Village Te Wairoa was completely buried during the catastrophic eruption of nearby Mt. Tarawera in 1886. The eruption took place without any warning (the volcano was believed to be extinct!) and devastated the entire area. The world famous Pink and White silica terraces were destroyed and ash, mud and lava covered an area of approximately 5,000sq miles (8,000sq km). At least a 150 people died. The village is now partly excavated and one can see the remains of a stone pataka (storehouse), a whare (Maori dwelling) and a few European buildings. The small museum displays intriguing photos that were taken before and after the eruption.

103

T h e

V o l c a n i c

Wairoa Buried Village , near the shores of Lake Tarawera (see also Waimangu valley). Tarawera Landing is situated a few kilometres further on from the village and this is where boats depart for the trip across Lake Tarawera. Mount Tarawera itself can be seen on the eastern side of the lake.

Lake Rotorua For the drive around Lake Rotorua itself, leave the city in the direction of Hamilton on SH5. First stop is at Rainbow and Fairy Springs. The springs have a lovely bush setting and are teeming with brown, rainbow and brook trout. The trout may be hand-fed and some real monsters can be seen through an underwater viewing window. Other attractions include wallabies, kiwis and the descendants of the pigs Captain Cook introduced over 200 years ago (known as ÔCaptain CookersÕ).

H e a r t l a n d

Not far away is the Agrodome at Ngongotaha. Here visitors are entertained with demonstrations of sheep-shearing and can watch sheep dogs being put through their paces. But if your taste for sheep only extends to the chops on your plate, then continue on around the lake to Hamurana Springs. There is another trout pool here as well as a grove of giant Californian redwoods. By making a detour north at Mourea it would be possible to visit Okere Falls, otherwise continue along the lake shore to Tikitere (see above) and then follow SH30 back to Rotorua.

HongiÕs Track The last outing from Rotorua to be described here involves a bit more walking. Follow SH30 north to Hinehopu at the far end of Lake Rotoiti. This is the starting point of HongiÕs Track, a beautiful walk

The Maori Hangi

R

otorua is one of the best places in New Zealand to try a traditional hangi meal. A hangi is a Maori earth oven in which food is cooked by steam. Wood is piled over a shallow pit and then stones are placed on the wood. A fire is lit and, once the stones are hot enough, the remaining wood is removed. Water is then sprinkled over the stones and the food is placed in containers on top. Everything is now covered with a layer of leaves and dirt and left to steam for three to four hours. Hangi food can taste delicious if properly prepared and the hangi that visitors can enjoy in Rotorua are usually accompanied by traditional Maori songs and dances. Though the large hotels provide excellent hangi meals, the tours that take people to a marae provide a more authentic background for the feast.

104

T h e

V o l c a n i c

through magnificent native bush scenery to the shores of Lake Rotoehu, only 1 mile (1 1 /2 km) away. Hongi Hika (1777-1828), after whom the track was named, was a famous warrior chief of the Ngapuhi tribe. On his way to attack an enemy tribe, he and his warriors had to carry their canoes along this track between the two lakes. On the way back to Rotorua, a detour could be made to Lake Okataina . This is the Rotorua region at its most unspoiled. No roads circle the shore of this lake which is hugged in a green embrace of sub-tropical forest. One has no choice but to leave the car and to follow one of the tracks, shaded by the delicate fronds of giant tree ferns.

Rotorua to Taupo If SH30 and then SH1 are taken south to Taupo, a detour could be made to the fascinating thermal valley of Orakei Korako . The turnoff is signposted some 43miles (70km) south of Rotorua. Access to the thermal area is via a short boat trip across Lake Ohakuri . From the jetty, a path then threads its way past geysers, mud pools and some beautiful silica terraces. Just how colourful the terraces will be at any one time depends on whether enough hot water is flowing over them to create the conditions necessary for the growth of hot-water algae. These orange, pink and green algae can flourish in temperatures of up to 140¼F (60 °C). Another interesting natural formation is Ruatapu Cave (AladdinÕs Cave) with its hot pool. High-ranking Maori women once used the pool as a mirror while adorning

H e a r t l a n d

themselves Ñ hence the name Orakei Korako which means Ôplace of adorningÕ. Those who take SH5 south will pass Waimangu and Waiotapu thermal areas (described above) and, shortly before Taupo, nobody is likely to miss the huge clouds of steam billowing from the Wairakei Geothermal Station Ñ it can also be seen by those who follow SH1 as it joins SH5 just above Wairakei. At Wairakei , geothermal energy (super-heated steam below the earthÕs surface that is tapped by drilling deep bores) is exploited to generate electricity. Those interested in learning more should definitely visit the complex. The impressive Huka Falls are only a short drive further south. Here the Waikato River gushes through a narrow gap of rock to plunge 36ft (11m) into a pool below. Other sights in the area include the Craters of the Moon , a thermally active valley where visitors can have a free look at bubbling mud pools and steaming craters, and Aratiatia Rapids . The rapids were made dry because of a hydro-electric scheme and would have vanished for good were it not for the ensuing public outcry. They are now Ôturned onÕ between 10-11.30am and 2.30-4pm.

Lake Taupo Though the town of Taupo itself is not of great interest, it does have a magnificent setting on the shores of Lake Taupo, New ZealandÕs largest lake (234sq miles/606sq km). Few people would suspect it, but TaupoÕs waters actually fill a gigantic crater that was formed in a series 105

T h e

V o l c a n i c

of massive volcanic eruptions that belong to the most violent that the earth has ever known. The last great explosion in the Taupo volcanic area took place around 1,800 years ago and covered an area of some 8,000sq miles (21,000sq km) with volcanic debris. These days the lake is better known for its excellent trout fishing than the cataclysmic events of the past, and anglers come from all over the world to fish in its waters or in the streams and rivers that feed it. Especially famous among anglers is the Tongariro River which enters Lake Taupo at its southern end near Turangi. Those who are not keen on fishing can join a cruise on the steamboat Ernest Kemp to some modern Maori rock carvings in Mine Bay . A couple of other boats also offer a similar trip. Though Taupo certainly makes an excellent base for an angling holiday, there are also plenty of other activities in the area (jet boating, tandem skydiving, scenic flights, etc) to keep most people busy for a few days. With this in mind it is worth mentioning that many of the hotels, motels and even camping grounds in Taupo have hot pools attached. A short distance along the road to Napier (SH5) are the well-appointed De Brett Thermal Pools .

Taupo to Tongariro National Park The drive down to Turangi on SH1 is especially pretty after Hatepe as the road now follows the lake shore. Turangi is mainly interesting for anglers, as the trout-rich Tongariro River flows close to town. 106

H e a r t l a n d

Trout Trout are not native to New Zealand, but were introduced in the nineteenth century from North America and Europe. In spite of the fact that they seem to thrive in New Zealand waters, it is necessary to maintain special hatcheries as not all New ZealandÕs rivers and lakes offer suitable spawning grounds. However, the trout released from these hatcheries sometimes reach record sizes. A brown trout might grow to weigh as much as 35lbs (16kg)! Of the two species it is the brown trout that is more widespread. Rainbow trout are mainly found in the lakes around Rotorua and in Lake Taupo. One of the more important hatcheries is the Tongariro National Trout Centre near Turangi. Because trout fishing is treated purely as a sport, trout are not fished commercially and are not available on restaurant menus. If you want a trout meal you will either have to catch one yourself or make friends with an angler!

T h e

V o l c a n i c

H e a r t l a n d

Above: Pohutu Geyser, Rotorua

Right: Brown trout, Rangitaiki River

Below: Taupo Marina, Lake Taupo

107

T h e

V o l c a n i c

The direct route south is to follow SH1 to Waiouru. This stretch of the highway is commonly known as the Desert Road as it goes through a desolate, yet often dramatically beautiful, region of tussock grasslands bordering Tongariro National Park. There are good views of the parkÕs volcanoes from various points along the road. Those who want to explore the area of Tongariro National Park a bit more thoroughly, should leave SH1 at Turangi and head in the direction of National Park township by following SH47 around the shores of Lake Rotoaira . If the weather is fine, it might be worth stopping just before this lake for a swim in the clear waters of bush clad Lake Rotopounamu. A signposted walk (20 minutes) leads off the road to the lake which can be circled in about two hours. Roughly 5 miles (8km) short of National Park is the turn-off to Whakapapa Village , within the boundaries of Tongariro National Park.

Tongariro National Park New ZealandÕs first national park, and one of the worldÕs oldest, was the result of a far-sighted gift. To ensure that his sacred tribal lands would never fall into the hands of land hungry colonists, the Maori chief Te Heu Heu Tukino IV presented the area now covered by Tongariro National Park to the Crown in 1887. In 1991 the park was recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage site and anyone who takes the time to explore this place of active volcanoes, will soon appreciate the significance of Te Heu HeuÕs unique gift. 108

H e a r t l a n d

Volcanoes Of Tongariro ParkÕs three volcanoes, it is Mt Ngauruhoe 7,513ft (2,290m) that is most continually active. When it is not actually belching out steam and ash, the volcanoÕs almost perfect cone can be climbed for tremendous views over the entire plateau. At 9,173ft (2,796m) Mt Ruapehu is the North IslandÕs highest peak. Though it is not normally as active as Ngauruhoe, it did produce some spectacular eruptions in 1995. The ash cloud it emitted covered large areas of central North Island but fortunately no lives were lost. At its summit is a steaming crater lake. Mt Tongariro (6,457ft/ 1,968m) may once have been cone-shaped like Ngauruhoe, but at some time in the distant past a massive explosion blew the mountainÕs upper section away. On TongariroÕs northern flanks are Ketetahi hot springs.

Walking in Tongariro Like all New ZealandÕs national parks, Tongariro has an excellent system of walking tracks and, if time allows, Whakapapa Village is a good place to start off on an exploration of this magnificent, often bizarre volcanic landscape on foot. Not only is National Park headquarters

T h e

V o l c a n i c

located here but there is also a range of accommodation to suit all budgets. Park headquarters has all the necessary information about tracks and huts within the park, as well as detailed walking maps and pamphlets describing shorter walks. Starting close to park headquarters is the 4 miles (6 1 /2 km) circular track to Taranaki Falls . A much longer walk the authors can highly recommend takes two to three days to complete but goes through some of the parksÕ most fascinating volcanic scenery. It starts (or ends) at the Chateau , skirts the nearly perfect volcanic cone of Mt Ngauruhoe and takes in the Emerald Lakes, Blue Lake, Red and Central craters and, as an essential detour, the hot springs at Ketetahi Hut . Huts along the way are Mangatepopo, Oturere and Waihohonu. The track exits the park on the Desert Road (SH1) after Waihohonu Hut and transport has to be arranged from here. This walk serves as a shorter alternative to the 4-5 day Round the Mountain Track , which it basically follows.

Ohakune In winter, trampers give way to skiers who flock to Whakapapa Village and the nearby ski fields on Mt Ruapehu. On the south-western flanks of the mountain, Ohakune assumes the role of ski village for Turoa ski field. This pleasantly situated little town is also a good alternative base for walking in summer. For those who simply do not have the time to do any long walks, the Ohakune Mountain Road leading up to the Turoa slopes offers some compensation, as it is a beautiful

H e a r t l a n d

drive through some of the parkÕs finest stands of native forest. There are a number of nice spots for picnics along the way and if the hamper needs filling, supplies can be bought from New World supermarket in Ohakune even on Sundays. Information about the park is available from the ranger station at the start of the road. Close to the ranger station begins the Mangawhero Forest Walk . It goes through beautiful bush scenery and takes about 2 hours to complete.

South to Taihape and Mangaweka Continuing south from Ohakune it is possible to take either SH4 via Raetihi to Wanganui (see Chapter 6) or to go via Waiouru on SH1 which is the main road down to Wellington. Waiouru is the site of New ZealandÕs most important army training camp and the main point of interest here is the excellent Queen Elizabeth II Army Memorial Museum. The museum deals with the history of the New Zealand Army from colonial times to the present. There is a regular audiovisual display and refreshments are also available within the complex.

Taihape Only 17 1 /2 miles (28kms) further south is the small rural township of Taihape. Because of its central position between Auckland and Wellington on SH1, the town has long been a popular refreshment stop for visitors. In fact, in spite of only having a population of around 2,500 there are some 16 restaurants and takeaways in town! The range of 109

T h e

V o l c a n i c

accommodation is almost as impressive, with prices ranging from medium to low budget. Apart from eating and sleeping, Taihape offers visitors prepared to stay a few days outdoor activities and sightseeing away from the main tourist trail. A major attraction is Titoki Point Garden and Nursery to the north-west of town which has been acclaimed as one of the finest private gardens in the country. Rongoiti Garden , which lies to the west, is also of interest with its bush walks and native birds. A good address for outdoor enthusiasts is River Valley Ventures . They organise horse treks, canoe safaris and white water rafting on the scenic Rangitikei River. Hunting and tramping is possible in the nearby Kaimanawa and Ruahine forest parks.

H e a r t l a n d

Mangaweka Another base for outdoor adventures is Mangaweka, further south on SH1. Right next to the main road and impossible to miss is the Aeroplane CafŽ, an old DC-3 plane that has been fitted out as a tearoom. It is worth stopping for a snack here if only to experience more leg-room than you will ever get in the Economy Class of any modern jumb o-jet. Beside the plane is the office of Rangatikei River Adventures . They are the key to a 141ft (43m) bungy jump, jet boat trips and other outdoor activities in this rugged landscape of dramatic river gorges, walled by sheer cliffs of dazzling white papa rock. From Taihape it is just over 124 miles (200kms) down to Wellington or 1 1 /2 hours via Bulls to Wanganui at the start of Route 8 .

¥ ROUTE 5 ¥ TARANAKI Coming from the north, New Plymouth in the Taranaki region is best reached from Te Kuiti (Chapter 3), but another interesting possibility for visitors coming from Tongariro National Park is to first go north via Taumarunui , then to follow the Taumarunui-Stratford Heritage Trail 93 miles (150km) south-west. The road is very windy and some stretches are unsealed, but it allows visitors to see a very beautiful yet little visited area of the North Island. Before leaving Taumarunui, it is advisable to make sure the fuel tank is full as there are not many chances to fill the tank along this 110

route. Another good idea is to get hold of the Heritage Trails booklet from the Information Centre or DOC office in town. It contains useful information about the various points of historic interest along the trail, such as old Maori pa sites and abandoned coal mines. From Taumarunui the road first follows the Whanganui River west, then turns south through Tatu to enter the picturesque Tangarakau Gorge. At Tahora , at the end of the gorge, there is a motor camp. Another motor camp is located at Douglas, not far from Stratford. Stratford is named after ShakespeareÕs birthplace and many of the

T h e

V o l c a n i c

H e a r t l a n d

Swimming with Dolphins

D

olphin swimming is becoming an increasingly popular activity in New Zealand and many visitors rave about this unique experience. Not only do participants get close enough actually to touch the dolphins as they swim about in the open sea but they are also given an informative commentary about the animals and their marine environment. Non-swimmers are welcome on these trips and the chances of getting an excellent close-up photo of a wild dolphin at sea are quite high. Swimmers are provided with wet suits and snorkels and are then taken by boat to where the dolphins normally feed. Such an excursion usually lasts about 3 hours. In Whakatane, dolphin swimming is offered by Dolphins Down Under, but another recommended operator is Dolphin Mary Charters in Kaikoura (South Island).

Above: Fullers Dolphin Encounter depart Paihia and Russell (see Chapter 2) and the cruise is well worth it for all those who have never seen these fascinating animals in their natural environment Right: You can stay wet or dry for close-up views of the dolphins

111

T h e

V o l c a n i c

streets have Shakespearian names. Apart from this bit of borrowed glory, the town is most interesting as an alternative base to New Plymouth for exploring the vicinity of Egmont National Park. Of interest near town is the Taranaki Pioneer Village which features fifty historic buildings. Within the complex there is a cafŽ along with a souvenir and craft shop.

New Plymouth Twenty-five miles (40 km) north of Stratford, the small coastal city of New Plymouth is the first major stop in Taranaki for those visitors who have taken SH3 south from Te Kuiti. Though most people come to this part of the country to visit Egmont National Park, there are a few places of interest in and around New Plymouth worthy of a closer look. The Taranaki Museum , for instance, has a very good collection of Maori artefacts, along with exhibits on the regionÕs colonial and natural history. The Govett-Brewster Art Gallery is not to be missed if you have an interest in contemporary New Zealand and Pacific art. A special section is devoted to the avant-garde artist and experimental film-maker Len Lye. Among the more important historic buildings in town are Richmond Cottage (1853) and St MaryÕs Church (1846) on Vivian Street, which is the oldest stone church in New Zealand. New Plymouth is, however, most renowned for its exceptionally beautiful parks. Perhaps the most outstanding is Pukekura Park , only a short walk from the City Centre. A touch of almost oriental charm is provided by the bright red 112

H e a r t l a n d

bridges which arch over the parkÕs two artificial lakes; they provide a sharp contrast to the lush green of the native bush. From the lakeside tea kiosk, a splendid view of Mt Taranaki (Egmont) has photographers rushing for their cameras. From mid-December to early February the park is lit up with coloured lights, and hundreds of people stroll through in the evenings to enjoy the spectacles of an illuminated fountain and floodlit waterfall. Great views over New Plymouth and the coastal surroundings can be had from the top of Paritutu Hill , at the western edge of town near the power station. Visible from here are the rocky Sugar Loaf Islands which form part of Sugar Loaf Islands Marine Park. The islands are a sanctuary for birds and also for seals which are present in their greatest numbers between August and October. In summer, boat trips can be made out to the islands. At the foot of Paritutu Hill the Rangimarie Arts and Crafts Centre offers visitors a chance to see Maori craftspeople at work. Difficult to miss with its 650ft (198m) chimney, the thermal power station was originally built to burn coal but was converted to run on gas or oil after the discovery of natural gas off the Taranaki coast in 1969. This discovery of natural gas offshore, as well as an earlier find at Kapune, has resulted in an economic boom for the region and New Plymouth in particular. The power station is open to the public on Wednesdays and Sundays. Two beautiful parks within short driving distance of New Plymouth are the Pukeiti Rhododendron Trust and Lake Mangamahoe Domain . The Domain is one of the authorÕs

T h e

V o l c a n i c

personal preferences. Not only is it a beautiful picnic spot, but the view of Mt Taranaki (Egmont) with the lake in the foreground makes the heart of any photographer beat faster. Superb!

Egmont National Park This national park is, as far as most visitors are concerned, TaranakiÕs crowning glory. It surrounds the 8,261ft (2,518m)-high Mt Taranaki , a dormant volcano with an almost perfect cone which is often compared to that of JapanÕs Mt Fuji. On those days when the mountain is not obscured by heavy white clouds (which can be rather often!), the sight of its snow-capped peak towering above the surrounding dairy lands is strikingly beautiful. A long-standing dispute as to how the mountain should be named was settled by deciding that it can be referred to by either its Maori name Taranaki or the European name Egmont. The park, which was created in 1900, is the second-oldest in the country after Tongariro and has, incidently, retained its European name.

Getting there The majority of people enter the park along one of the three mountain roads. The closest to New Plymouth is Egmont Road which leaves SH3 at Egmont Village. The North Egmont Visitor Centre is located at the top of the road and provides simple accommodation, a cafeteria and displays relating to the park. Pembroke Road goes up the mountain from Stratford to the

H e a r t l a n d

Mountain House Motor Lodge at East Egmont and the Manganui ski field. The ranger station is reached before East Egmont and this is the place to stop for park information. To the west of Stratford, Manaia Road leads up to Dawson Falls Visitor Centre . Accommodation is available at the Tourist Lodge next door.

Walking on Mt Egmont Skiing on the mountain is perhaps the most popular sport during the winter months but otherwise the park is the domain of trampers and climbers. The most popular walk is the 34 mile (55km), four day Round-the-Mountain Track . It can be easily reached from the ends of any of the mountain roads which also provide convenient starting points for shorter day walks.

Please note The easiest route to the summit starts from North Egmont and requires about 8 hours return. It is only ÔeasyÕ for fit trampers under favourable weather conditions. When there is a lot of snow on the summit mountaineering experience (ice axe and ropes) is essential. As the weather can quickly change anywhere in the park, even in summer, it is important to have suitable footwear and to carry warm clothing and a raincoat on any longer walks. It always pays to inquire about track and weather conditions before starting out.

113

T h e

114

V o l c a n i c

H e a r t l a n d

T h e

V o l c a n i c

On to Wanganui There are two possibilities for the continued journey to Wanganui (Chapter 6); either follow the inland route via Stratford on SH3 or take the coastal road following SH45. Oakura , a short distance outside of New Plymouth on the coastal road, is known for its excellent surfing and windsurfing. There is also some good swimming and surfing at Opunake further down the coast. Hawera , where SH45 merges with SH3, is interesting because of a couple of unusual private museums. Tawhiti Museum covers TaranakiÕs eventful history with life-size figures cast from real people living in the area, as well as colourful dioramas. Attached to the museum is a bush railway. The other private

H e a r t l a n d

museum has been the work of New ZealandÕs most devoted Elvis fan: Kevin Wasley. Although a long way from Graceland, Elvis fans should not miss the Elvis Presley Memorial Record Room with its collection of rare recordings and memorabilia. A short distance north of town, the Turuturu Mokai Pa is regarded as one of the best remaining examples of a pre-European Maori fortification. Having said that, it should be mentioned that the only visible remains are the trenches, dug-in hut sites and food storage pits. A pamphlet put out by the local tourist office helps explain the historical significance of the place and is worth getting for those who plan a visit. Just over 56 miles (90km) south-east of Hawera is the city of Wanganui .

Opposite page: Mount Ngauruhoe, Tongariro National Park Below: Maori Meeting House, Rotorua

115

A

The Volcanic Heartland

ACTIVITIES National Park Kayaking/Canoeing Plateau Outdoor Adventure Guides ☎ (07) 892 2740 Rentals and guided trips on Whanganui River.

New Plymouth Boat Trips ChaddyÕs Charters Tickets: ChaddyÕs Boat Shed, Ocean View Parade. ☎ (06) 758 9133 Sugar Loaf Islands and Marine Park.

Ohakune Kayaking/Canoeing Canoe Safaris ☎/Fax (06) 385 8758 2 to 5 day guided trips on Whanganui River. Yeti Tours PO Box 140 ☎ (06) 385 8197 Rentals and also guided trips on Whanganui River.

Rotorua Boat Trips Departure point for cruises on Lake Rotorua is the lakefront jetty at the end of Tutanekai Rd. Among the more popular are those aboard the paddle steamer Lakeland Queen which offers breakfast, luncheon and dinner cruises every day during the summer. The Scatcat, a

116

motorised catamaran, and the Ngaroto both do cruises to Mokoia Island. Cruises on Lake Rotomahana, which lies roughly 20 minutes south of Rotorua, can be done as part of the Waimangu Round Trip (see main text). The cruise itself takes just over an hour.

Fishing There is good trout fishing in the Rotorua area. Tourism Rotorua can help arrange guides or give tips if you want to go it alone.

Jet Boating Longridge Adventure Trips ☎ (07) 533 1515

Kayaking/Canoeing Adventure Kayaking ☎ (07) 348 9451 Rentals and guided trips on Lake Tarawera and Lake Okataina.

Maori Hangis & Concerts In Rotorua, many of the large hotels offer a Maori hangi and concert. The performances are well done and very popular but a more authentic setting is provided by tour operators who take visitors to a marae. Here they learn something about Maori customs before enjoying the concert and hangi. At the hotels it is sometimes possible to buy a ticket for the concert only, which is of course cheaper than the combined concert and hangi. All the following hotels offer complimentary transport within Rotorua.

A

Kingsgate Hotel Eruera Street Freephone 0800 654 685 or (07) 347 1234 Nightly feast at 7pm, Maori Revue at 8.30pm.

Quality Hotel Fenton Street Freephone 0800 808 228 or (07) 348 0199 Hangi and concert every night from 6.45pm. Free pick up & drop off within Rotorua. THC Hotel Froude Street ☎ (07) 348 1189 Hangi and concert nightly 6pm.

Marae-Based Hangi include: Rakeiao Marae The Maori Experience ☎ (07) 348 8969 Tamaki Tours PO Box 1492 Twilight Cultural Tour Freephone 0800 500 331 or (07) 3462 823 This is a Maori-owned company has earned a good reputation for its informative evening tours. The hangi and concert take place on a marae. They also do tours to thermal areas. Waiteti Marae Maori Hangi & Concert ☎ (07) 357 2023

Tiger Moth Flights ☎ (07) 345 4885 See the lakes and craters in an open cockpit bi-plane. Volcanic Wunderflites ☎ (07) 345 6079 Popular for flights over Mt Tarawera.

Volcanic Tours Rotorua offers the largest range of volcanic sightseeing tours. However, there are also some interesting tours starting in Taupo and Whakatane. See also Boat Trips and Scenic Flights. Mud ÔN Mountain(Wild Trax) Contact Tourism Rotorua ☎ (07) 345 3264 Highlights: Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland, Mt Tarawera & a Hot Swim. Tarawera Volcanic Golds Tour Contact Tourism Rotorua ☎ (07) 347 1199 Highlights: Waimangu Valley, Rotomahana Crater Lake & Mt Tarawera. Waimangu Round Trip Contact Tourism Rotorua or PO Box 402, Rotorua ☎ (07) 347 1199 This is the oldest and most famous volcanic tour.

Taihape

Scenic Flights

White Water Rafting

Several companies offer flights over the thermal regions. They include:

River Valley Ventures ☎ (06) 388 1444 Rafting off the beaten track.

Kiwi Kopters ☎ (07) 347 7575 Helicopter flights.

117

A

The Volcanic Heartland

Taumarunui

Volcanic Tours

Kayaking/Canoeing

Paradise Tours ☎ (07) 378 9955 A 21/2 hour tour to Aratiatia Rapids, Craters of the Moon and Huka Falls.

Wades Landing Outdoors ☎ (07) 895 5995 Rentals only.

Taupo Boat Trips The sailing-boats Barbary (this yacht once belonged to Errol Flynn) and Spirit of Musick and the steamboat Ernest Kemp offer 2-21/2 hr cruises on the lake. Depart daily at 10am and 2pm. Depature point is Taupo Boat Harbour, off Redoubt Rd. Contact the tourist office or book at the wharves. The MV Waireka (African Queen) does a 2 hr cruise on the Waikato River to Huka Falls. Departs daily at 10am and 2pm. Departure point is 51/2 miles (9km) north of Taupo, along Huka Falls Rd ☎ (07) 374 8338.

Fishing Fly fishing guides and fishing charters can be arranged at Information Centre. Equipment is provided.

Jet Boating Huka Jet ☎ (07) 374 8572

Maori Hangis & Concerts Maori hangis and concerts are offered by De Bretts Hotel, Spa Hotel and at Huka Village. Contact information office for details.

118

Rapid Sensations ☎ (07)378 7902 Similar tour to Paradise Tours but this time on a mountain bike.

Tauranga Dolphin Swimming Gemini Galaxsea ☎ (07) 578 3197 Swim with dolphins from a motorised yacht.

White Water Rafting Wet ÔN Wild Rafting Company ☎ (07) 578 4093 Tongariro National Park.

Scenic Flights Mountain Air ☎ (07) 892 2812 Offer spectacular flights over the volcanoes from Chateau Airport.

Tramping Tongariro Crossing (part of Round the Mountains Track): The Tongariro Trek Shuttle departs from Whakapapa Visitors Centre at 8am and brings trampers to the start of the track at Mangatepopo Hut. At the Ketetahi end of the track trampers are picked up at 4.30pm and 6pm. ☎ (07) 892 3897. Also contact Alpine Scenic Tours ☎ (07) 386 8918 for details of transport from Turangi or National Park township to the parkÕs various tracks.

A Whakatane

Jet Boating

Boat Trips

Kiwi Jet Boat Tours ☎ (07) 307 0663

Blue Sky Tours ÔKahurangi CatÕ ☎ (07) 323 7829 Trips to White Island. Takes 5 hours.

Dolphin Swimming Dolphins Down Under 92 The Strand ☎/Fax (07) 308 4636 Trips are subject to weather conditions. Wet suits and other necessary equipment is supplied.

Scenic Flights Vulcan Helicopters PO Box 10 Waimana ☎ (07) 308 4188 or 0800 804 354 Trips to White Island volcano. Highly recommended. Flights depart Whakatane airport.

White Water Rafting Motu Raft Tours ☎ (07) 308 7760

ACCOMMODATION See pages 288 and 300 in the FactFile for the accommodation and restaurant rating guide

New Plymouth

Rotorua

Rotary Lodge $ (Backpackers) Willow Grove, 12 Clawton Street ☎ (06) 753 5720 Set in tranquil surroundings 15 minutes from town. Free pick-up.

Kiwi Paka $ (Backpackers) 60 Tarewa Road ☎ (07) 347 0931 Fax (07) 346 3167 Tent sites, ensuite chalets, hot pool, courtesy coach. Campervans are welcome.

Wave Haven $ (Backpackers) 780 Main South Road, SH45 Oakura ☎ (06) 752 7800 Fax (06) 752 7733 The place to stay if you enjoy surfing. Aaron Court Motel & Caravan Park $$ 57 Junction Road, SH3 ☎/Fax (06) 758 8712 Freephone 0800 101 939

Eaton Hall Guest House $$ 39 Hinemaru Street (Bed & Breakfast) ☎/Fax (07) 347 0366 Reservations are necessary in summer. Midway Motel $$ 293 Fenton Street ☎/Fax (07) 347 7799 Each unit has a thermal plunge pool.

Balconies Bed & Breakfast $$ 161 Powderham St ☎ (06) 757 8866 Good value and central. 119

A

Princes Gate Hotel $$$ 1 Arawa Street ☎ (07) 348 1179 Fax (07) 348 6215 Colonial style building, beautifully renovated. Not outrageously expensive.

Taupo Burkes Backpackers $ 69 Spa Road ☎ (07) 378 9292 Fax (07) 378 6803 Central location and a hot spa pool are the attractions here. Taupo All Seasons Holiday Park $ 16 Rangatira Street ☎ (07) 378 4272 Fax (07) 378 1272 Tent sites, cabins, tourist flats. Thermal pool and spa pool. 2 /3 mile (1km) from middle of town.

EATING OUT

The Volcanic Heartland Huka Lodge $$$ Huka Falls ☎ (07) 378 5791 Fax (07) 378 0427 Royalty have stayed here. Very expensive, very luxurious!

Tauranga Bell Lodge $ (Backpackers) 39 Bell Street ☎ (07) 578 6344 Fax (07) 578 6342 Tent sites available. 21/2 miles (4km) from middle of town. Greerton Motor Inn $$ 1237 Cameron Road ☎ (07) 578 8164 Fax (07) 578 3064 Swimming pool and spa pool. St Armand Hotel $$ 105 The Strand ☎/Fax (07) 578 8127 Central location.

New Plymouth

Rotorua

Tastings Foodcourt $ City Centre, Gill Street ☎ (06) 757 8379 Various food counters selling Chinese, seafood, wholefood and so forth.

Alzac Cafe $ 135 Tutanekai Street (BYO/Licensed) ☎ (07) 347 2127 International dishes: Thai chicken curry to pizza.

JulianaÕs Restaurant & Bar $$$ Auto Lodge, 393 Devon Street East ☎ (06) 758 8044 Stylish decor, international cuisine.

Tastebuds Mexican Cantina $$ 93 Fenton Street ☎ (07) 349 0591

LÕEscargot $$$ 37 Brougham Street ☎ (06) 758 4812 French cuisine along with international fare. 120

PoppyÕs Villa $$$ 4 Marguerita Street ☎ (07) 337 1700 Good New Zealand food in an Edwardian-style villa.

A

Rendezvous Restaurant $$$ 116 Hinemoa Street ☎ (07)348 9273 Great lamb dishes!

Taupo MargaritaÕs Tapas Bar & Restaurant $$ 63 Heuheu Street ☎ (07) 378 9909 Good Mexican food and a nice interior. Edgewater Restaurant $$$ Manuels Resort Hotel Lake Terrace ☎ (07) 378 5110 Top-notch dining with lake views.

Tauranga Bizzari Italian Cafe $ (BYO/Licensed) 59 The Strand ☎ (07) 578 9349 Reasonably priced Italian food. Harbourside Brasserie & Bar $$$ Old Yacht Club Building, The Strand Extension ☎ (07) 571 0520 Dine inside or out, innovative cuisine.

PLACES TO VISIT Hamurana

New Plymouth

Hamurana Springs 101/2 miles (17km) north of Rotorua Open: daily.

Govett Brewster Art Gallery Queen Street Open: Mon-Fri 10.30am-5pm, weekends & public holidays 1-5pm. Admission is free.

Hawera Elvis Presley Memorial Room 51 Argyle Street Open: by prior arrangement. ☎ (06) 278 8599. No admission fee but donations appreciated. Tawhiti Museum 47 Ohangai Road Open: Fri, Sat, Sun, Mon 10am-4pm. June, July, August Sunday only.

Mount Maunganui Hot Salt Pools Adams Avenue Open: daily 8am-10pm.

Power Station Open: Guided tours Wed 10am & Sun 2pm. Admission is free. Pukeiti Rhododendron Trust Carrington Road Open: daily 9am-5pm. Pukekura Park Fillis Street Open: Display houses daily 10am-12noon & 1-4pm. Tea kiosk closed Tues. Rangimarie Maori Art & Craft Centre Centennial Drive Open: 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri.

121

A

Above: Government Gardens, Rotorua Below left: The Round The Mountain Track, Tongariro National Park, is one of New Zealand’s ‘Great Walks’ Below right: Maori Poi Dance, Rotorua

122

The Volcanic Heartland

A

Richmond Cottage Gill Street Open: (November to May) Mon, Wed, Fri 2-4pm; Sat, Sun, public holidays 1-4pm. (June to October) Fri 2-4pm; Sat, Sun, public holidays 1-4pm. Taranaki Museum Ariki Street Open: 10.30am-4.30pm Tues-Fri & 1-5pm weekends. Admission is free.

Ngongotaha Agrodome Riverdale Park, Western Road Open: daily. Live Sheep Shows at 9.15am, 11am and 2.30pm. Licensed restaurant.

Orakei Korako

Tamatekapua Meeting House Ohinemutu (Opposite St FaithÕs Church) Open: Every evening at 8pm Maori concerts are held at the meeting house. Belonging to the complex is a craft and souvenir shop (normal business hours). Te Whakarewarewa Thermal Reserve & Maori Arts & Crafts Institute South of the middle of town on Fenton St Open: daily 8.30am-5.30pm. Guided tours hourly. Cultural Concert 12.15pm. Tudor Towers (Bath House) Government Gardens Open: daily 10am-4.30pm.

Stratford

Thermal Region Open: daily 8am. Last trip leaves 4.30pm (summer), 4pm (winter). CafŽ.

Taranaki Pioneer Village 2 /3 mile (1km) south of Stratford Open: daily 10am-4pm.

Rotorua

Taihape

Polynesian Pools Hinemoa Street Open: daily 9am-10pm. CafŽ & bar.

Rongoiti Garden & Nursery Koeke Road - off Rongoiti Rd, 8 miles (13km) from SH1 Open: Wed-Sun 1st September to 30th April.

Rainbow & Fairy Springs Fairy Springs Rd, 3 miles (5km) from city Open: daily 8am-5pm. Shows at 10.30am, 1pm and 2.30pm. Licensed restaurant. St FaithÕs Anglican Church Lakefront, Ohinemutu Open: daily 8.30am-5pm.

Titoki Point Garden & Nursery North-west of town (20 mins from SH1) Open: 10am-4pm Wed-Sun, October to May.

Taupo De Brett Thermal Pools Napier-Taupo Highway Open: daily 8am-9.30pm.

123

A

Tauranga Historic Village Museum 17th Avenue West Open: daily 9am-6pm summer. Winter 5pm. The Elms Mission House Mission Street Open: tours by prior arrangement. Contact tourist office.

Te Wairoa Buried Village Tarawera Rd, 9 miles (15km) east of Rotorua Open: daily 8.30am-5.30pm. June to August 9am-4.30pm.

Tikitere HellÕs Gate 10 miles (16km) NE of Rotorua Open: daily 9am-5pm.

Tokaanu Thermal Park & Pools Open: daily 10am-9.30pm.

Turangi Tongariro National Trout Centre Open: daily 9am-4pm. Entry is free.

The Volcanic Heartland Waimangu Volcanic Valley SH5, 12 miles (19km) south of Rotorua Open: daily 8.30am-5pm. Waiotapu Thermal Region SH5, 181/2 miles (30km) south of Rotorua Open: daily 8.30am-8.30pm. In winter closes at 5pm. Lady Knox Geyser erupts daily at 10.15am.

Waiouru Army Museum Next to SH1 Open: daily 9am-4.30pm.

Wairakei Craters of the Moon Open: dawn to dusk. Admission is free. Geothermal Station Information Centre Open: daily 9am-4pm. Huka Village Huka Falls Rd Open: daily 9am-5pm. A colonial-style craft village.

REGIONAL TRANSPORT New Plymouth to Rotorua C Tours 43 Egmont Street, New Plymouth ☎ (06) 758 1777 Connecting services to Rotorua. On the regular buses, this west to east route through the central North Island is very time consuming. 124

A VISITOR INFORMATION & PARK VISITOR CENTRES Egmont National Park

Stratford

Department of Conservation (DOC) Devon Street West, New Plymouth ☎ (06) 758 0433

Miranda and Broadway, PO Box 320 ☎ (06) 765 6708 Fax (06) 765 7500

North Egmont Visitors Centre Egmont Road, Egmont Village ☎ (06) 756 8710

Taumarunui

Dawson Falls Visitors Centre Take Manaia Rd from Kaponga ☎ (025) 430 248

Railway Station, Hakiaha Street, Box 345 ☎ (07) 895 7494 Information on Whanganui National Park.

Hawera

Taupo

Information South Taranaki 55 High Street, PO Box 5 ☎ (06) 278 8599

13 Tongariro Street, PO Box 865 Open: daily 8.30am-5pm. ☎ (07) 378 9000 Fax (07) 378 9003

Mount Maunganui Salisbury Avenue ☎ (07) 575 5099

New Plymouth Cnr Liardet and Leach Sts Open: Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm, weekends 10am-3pm. ☎ (06) 759 6080 Fax (06) 759 6073

Ohakune Ruapehu Visitors Centre, 54 Clyde Street, PO Box 36 ☎ (06) 385 8427 Fax (06) 385 8527

Rotorua Tourism Rotorua, 67 Fenton Street Open: daily 8am-5.30pm. ☎ (07) 348 5179 Fax (07) 348 6044

Tauranga The Strand, PO Box 1070 Open: Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, weekends 8am-2pm. ☎ (07) 578 8103 Fax (07) 578 1090

Tongariro National Park Ohakune Ranger Station, Mountain Road ☎ (06) 385 8578 Turangi Turangi Regional Office Turanga Place ☎ (07) 386 8607 Whakapapa Village, Mt Ruapehu Visitor Centre, behind Chateau Hotel ☎ (07) 892 3729

Whakatane Boon Street PO Box 307 ☎ (07) 308 6058 125

EAST CAPE & HAWKEÕ S BAY This chapter covers most of the eastern sector of the North Island, an area blessed by long warm summers and mild winters. Major attractions include the gannet colony at Cape Kidnappers, the wilderness area of Te Urewera National Park, the ÔArt Deco Capital of the WorldÕ, Napier, and the secluded bays and beaches around East Cape. A special attraction around Christmas is the flowering pohutukawa trees along the East Cape coastal road.

¥ ROUTE 6 ¥ THE EAST CAPE RO AD The East Cape is an area rich in the history of the Maori people and many of the small settlements scattered along the coast still have a predominantly Maori population. The stretch of coast between Hicks Bay and Gisborne is known to the local Maori as Tair awhiti which means Ôthe coast 126

upon which the sun shines across the waterÕ. As much of the land along the coastal highway is privately owned, (a fact which is not always immediately obvious, i.e. no fences or signposts), it is essential to seek permission before attempting to camp outside the designated areas.

Above: Shopping, Napier, Hawke’s Bay

E a s t

C a p e

&

H a w k e Õ s

B a y

EAST CAPE & HAWKE'S BAY White Island

Hick's Bay

35

Te Araroa Whanarua Bay

Bay of Plenty

2

Te Kaha

Whakatane Taneatua

5

Rotorua

Tikitiki Te Puia Springs

Opotiki

Hukutaia Domain

Tokomaru Bay

Anaura Bay

2

1

Tolaga Bay Whangara Tatapouri Makorori Wainui

Murupara 38

Taupo

Lake Waikaremoana

Aniwaniwa

Gisborne Mahia Beach

Hawke Bay

Napier Hawke's Bay Museum Kiwi House Marine Land/ Aquarium

Norsewood

Morere (Springs)

Wairoa

2 5

1

Gisborne

Te Urewera N. P.

Turangi

East Cape

Mahia Peninsula

Napier

Cook Memorial Museum & Arts Centre Poho-o-Rawiri Meeting House Star of Canada Maritime Museum

Cape Kidnappers Hastings Havelock North Keirunga Gardens Waipukurau

0

Woodville 2

0

Opotiki Quickly reached from Whakatane (Route 4), the small town of Opotiki is recorded in New Zealand history because of a particularly tragic event . In 1865 the Reverend Carl Volkner, who up until that time had enjoyed the trust of local tribes, was executed in his church by Maori. They belonged to the anti-European Hauhau movement. Although accounts of

15 15

30miles 30kms

the killing vary, one particularly gruesome version has it that Volkner was decapitated and that his eyes were gouged out and eaten. Whether or not this account of his death is true, the fact is that Volkner had been guilty of spying and the killing can be seen as an act of revenge. The place of VolknerÕs untimely death is now known as the Church of St Stephen the Martyr and it is here that the reverend lies buried. 127

E a s t

C a p e

&

Organised outdoor activities that start from Opotiki include mountain bike tours through the East CapeÕs rugged bush-covered interior and exhilarating jet boat rides on the mighty Motu River . For the even more adventurous, there are also white water rafting trips through the magnificent forest scenery of the Motu RiverÕs lower gorge Ñ one to five days of pure adventure! A nice excursion from Opotiki, and a great spot for a picnic, is the Hukutaia Domain , about 4 1 /2 miles (7km) west of town. This pretty 12 acre (5 hectare) reserve contains a fine selection of native plants, many of which are identified with their botanical, common and Maori names. One of the domainÕs most impressive trees is an ancient puriri that is known to the local Maori as Taketakerau . Over 2000 years old its hollow trunk was once used as a place to inter the bones of important people.

Opotiki to Gisbourne From Opotiki, SH35 commences its winding journey along a coastline dotted with lovely little bays and beaches. The first place of any size is the old whaling settlement of Te Kaha . The last whales were harpooned here in the 1930Õs and since then the little town has relied mainly on farming and fishing to get by. Tourism has also done its bit to help the local economy as there are a number of fine beaches, as well as good fishing, in the vicinity. Well worth a look is the magnificently carved Tukaki Meeting House , though permission should be gained before entering the marae. 128

H a w k e Õ s

B a y

Continuing north Whanarua Bay is a particularly beautiful spot and those who wish to overnight can do so at the Rendezvous on the Coast Holiday Park . Apart from providing budget accommodation in the form of cabins and tent sites, the holiday park also offers instruction in scuba diving and they hire out boats and kayaks. From Whangaparaoa the road goes inland before reaching the coast again at Hicks Bay, some 18 1 /2 miles (30km) distant. Idyllic Hicks Bay was named after a member of the crew on CookÕs ship the Endeavour. Here visitors can spend their time fishing, swimming and bush walking in the most picturesque of surroundings. A feature of the area is the many ancient puriri trees which, in contrast to the pohutukawa, flower nearly all year round. The road moves inland again after Te Araroa and the first place of interest is Tikitiki. Visitors should not miss seeing the Anglican Church

East Cape Lighthouse A short journey further down the coast from Hicks Bay is the settlement of Te Araroa. From here it is possible to turn off along the road to the East Cape Lighthouse, supposedly the most easterly in the world. The 25 miles (40km) return trip is best done early to witness the sunrise. For those who do not have their own transport the Hicks Bay Backpackers Lodge (☎ (06) 864 4731) arranges Ôsunrise toursÕ to the lighthouse.

E a s t

C a p e

&

here as it is beautifully decorated with Maori art. Further south Te Puia Springs is worth noting for its natural hot pools. Tokomaru Bay is only another 6 miles (10km) away and would be a pleasant spot to spend a few quiet days by the seaside. Continuing south those who want to experience a really lovely stretch of coast, away from it all, should take the turn-off to Anaura Bay . A wonderful beach of golden sands and a panoramic walkway (2 hours) with views over the sea, are ample reward for the trip. It was here that Captain Cook made his second landing in New Zealand and there is a plaque to mark the event. Compared to Anaura Bay and indeed to most settlements along this road Tolaga Bay is a sizeable town. Not only is the beach here good for swimming, it is given added distinction by the presence of New ZealandÕs longest wharf (2165ft/ 660m). It was built between 1926 and 1929 to enable ships to unload even when the tide was out. A few kilometres south of town the CookÕs Cove Walkway is a great chance to stretch the legs. TupaeaÕs Cavern, a natural rock archway linking Tolaga Bay with CookÕs Cove, is a highlight of the walk. The start of the track can be reached by following Wharf Road off the main highway. Closed during the lambing season (1 August30 September) the walk takes roughly 2 1 /2 hours to complete. The 34 mile (55km) drive down to Gisborne could be punctuated with stops at Whangara , where there is a nice beach, or at Tatapouri where the fishing is good and freshly caught crayfish are often for sale. Shortly before Gisborne are the superb beaches at Makorori and Wainui .

H a w k e Õ s

B a y

Gisbourne Not only does the small coastal city of Gisborne get more than its fair share of sunshine, but it is also the first place in the world to see the rising sun. This is due to its proximity to the International Dateline and extreme easterly position. Perhaps a more important fact for some, is that all the sunshine, and suitable soils, have gone a long way to making the Gisborne region an important wine-growing area, producing some excellent Chardonnays. The city occupies a significant place in New Zealand history as it was here, on 9 October 1769, that Captain Cook landed for the first time on New Zealand soil. The spot is marked by the Cook Memorial at the foot of Kaiti Hill , on Kaiti Beach Road. From the top of the hill, a magnificent view encompasses the city with its three rivers as well as the broad expanse of Poverty Bay . Near the top is a statue of Captain Cook. The road up to the look-out on Kaiti Hill passes the Poho-o-Rawiri Meeting House, one of the largest in New Zealand. Although permission is required to enter (enquire at visitor information) it is well worth going inside to see some superb examples of traditional Maori carving. Further insight into the Maori culture of the Gisborne region can be gained by visiting the small Museum and Arts Centre . It also deals with the period of European settlement and an old colonial cottage forms part of the complex. Next door is the Star of Canada Maritime Museum . An interesting fact about this museum is that it was originally the bridge of a ship wrecked off Kaiti Beach in 129

E a s t

C a p e

&

H a w k e Õ s

B a y

New Zealand Wine

I

n the 1820Õs the missionary Samuel Marsden planted what were reputedly the countryÕs first vines. But the countryÕs first expert viticulturist was the British resident James Busby. The explorer Dumont DÕUrville found the white wine Busby offered him on his visit to the Bay of Islands in 1840, very much to his taste. This was quite a compliment coming from a Frenchman and augured well for the future of an industry that was barely twenty years old! Still, if he could have seen into the future, DÕUrville would no doubt have been surprised to learn just how good New Zealand wine would one day be. In 1989 a renowned British wine magazine declared that the best Sauvignon Blanc came not from France, but from New Zealand.

With a mild sunny climate and soils that rival those of the best wine growing regions in France and Germany, it is hardly surprising that New Zealand wines continue to reap international awards. The commercial potential of these ideal growing conditions was first recognised by French, Dalmation and other European winemakers, who emigrated to New Zealand during the 19th century. With the know-how that they brought with them, they were able to lay a firm basis for what is now a flourishing industry. In fact, the area given over to wine cultivation has increased from a mere 990 acres (400 hectares) in 1945 to over 15000 acres (6000 hectares) at present. Important growing regions are Poverty Bay, HawkeÕs Bay and Gisborne in the North Island and Marlborough and Nelson in the South Island. In terms of quality, it is above all the white wine varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay that enjoy the best reputation. However, the reds are steadily improving with

1912. Prior to becoming a museum it had served for many years as one of GisborneÕs more unique homes. Twenty-two miles (35km) to the north-west of Gisborne, via Ngatapa, is the Eastwoodhill Arboretum. It comprises the largest collection of flora from the North130

ern Hemisphere in the country. The best times to visit are in spring, when magnolias, cherries and horse chestnuts burst into flower, or in autumn when deciduous trees like oaks, maples and ash are aflame with colour. Another 9 miles (15km) further on, Rere Falls is a popular picnic and swimming spot.

E a s t

C a p e

&

H a w k e Õ s

B a y

Above: Vineyard, Marlborough, South Island

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir grapes producing a few good vintages. Tourists who wish to become better acquainted with wines from Down Under can partipate in organised tours of the vineyards (for instance around Auckland) or enjoy wine tastings at wineries throughout the country. Those who want to add to their collections might consider investing in the BuyerÕs Guide to New Zealand Winesby Michael Cooper, one of New ZealandÕs most respected wine experts.

Gisbourne to Te Urewera From Gisborne the road south continues via Manutuke on SH2, where there are two magnificently carved meeting houses. However the interior of Toko Toru Tapu Anglican Church is also beautifully

decorated with Maori carvings. Once again visitors are reminded that meeting houses, and the marae on which they stand, are not only museums, but places where Maori gather socially. They are also places where ancient traditions are cultivated and preserved. It is always very important to seek permission 131

E a s t

C a p e

&

locally before entering these Maori areas. Another 29 miles (47km) further south at Morere are the Morere Hot Springs. Here it is possible to enjoy the thermal waters in a pretty setting of native bush. There are a number of pools, both public and private, to choose from, but nicest is the luxury of having a pool all to oneself. Several easy walks go through the surrounding forest which contains groves of nikau palms, graceful tree ferns and an abundance of native birds. The road to Mahia Peninsula leaves SH2 at Nuhaka. Hilly and sparsely populated, the peninsula attracts visitors with its fine beaches and good diving and surfing conditions. The main settlement is Mahia Beach where there is a small golf course. Wairoa , 20 1 /2 miles (33km) west of Nuhaka, is chiefly interesting as the southern gateway to Te Urewera National Park. A distinctive feature of the Marine Parade is a solid kauri lighthouse (1877) that was brought here from Portland Island at the tip of Mahia Peninsula.

Te Urewera National Park Rugged, wild and unspoiled Te Urewera National Park is the third largest national park in New Zealand and protects the largest remaining area of native forest in the North Island. It is also the ancestral home of the Tuhoe people, the ÔChildren of the MistÕ, who even today live in relative isolation from the rest of the country. State Highway 38 provides access to the park for those coming from 132

H a w k e Õ s

B a y

Wairoa and also for those coming from Rotorua via Murupara . The northern section of the park is accessible from Whakatane via Taneatua . Park headquarters is located at Aniwaniwa on the shores of Lake Waikaremoana, but there are also ranger stations at Murupara and Taneatua. Surrounded by primeval bush, Lake Waikaremoana is the main area for activities in the park. The lake itself is not only popular for swimming, boating and trout-fishing but also provides a lovely backdrop for the Lake Waikaremoana Track which closely follows the lake for most of its length. A highlight of this three to four day walk is the splendid view over lake and forest from Panekiri Bluff .

Walks in the park There are many other excellent walks in the park varying in length from short strolls to trips of several days. In the category of ÔstrollÕ is the walk to Aniwaniwa Falls , only 15 minutes from park headquarters. Especially worthwhile is the track to Lake Waikareiti , a wonderfully tranquil place that can only be reached on foot. The track starts near park headquarters and about three hours is needed for the return trip. There is a hut at Sandy Bay that can also be reached by rowing boat (enquire at park headquarters, Aniwaniwa) and this would be a great place to stay, if only for a single night. Here, surrounded by nothing but the silent grandeur of the forest, it is possible to imagine New Zealand as it was before the coming of man: a land of birds

E a s t

C a p e

&

covered by a vast cloak of primordial green. The still of the evening is broken only by the moreporkÕs (a native owl) call, while a multitude of insects, among them perhaps a magnificent puriri moth, are attracted by the warm glow of lantern light.

Moving on From Wairoa , SH2 continues south through picturesque countryside to the coast at Napier.

H a w k e Õ s

B a y

Natural History Guide The Department of Conservation (DOC) brochure, Napier-Tutira Highway: HawkeÕs Bay Reserves and Walkways, is worth getting for those with an interest in natural history.

¥ ROUTE 7 ¥ HAWKEÕS BA Y For 2 1 /2 minutes on 3 February 1931, both Napier and Hastings were gripped by one of the most devastating earthquakes ever to hit New Zealand. In that short span of time, both cities were reduced to rubble and Napier was suddenly 9,000 acres (3,600 hectares) larger, as the titanic forces unleashed by the quake heaved up land in a matter of seconds from the seabed.

Napier Following the earthquake, Napier was mainly rebuilt in the Art Deco style of the Thirties and today the city is considered to have one of the finest concentrations of such architecture anywhere in the world. Most of the Art Deco buildings are located in the inner-city, often easily recognisable by the delicate pastel tones in which they have been painted. Good examples can be found along Emerson, Tennyson and Hastings Streets. However, one particularly splendid example, the RothmanÕs

Building, is located on the outskirts of town on the road to Gisborne and Taupo. Visitors can take themselves on their own ÔArt Deco walkÕ, using the leaflet available from the Visitor Information Centre. There are also guided walks starting from the Desco Centre on Tennyson St.

Marine Parade Lined with tall Norfolk pines, NapierÕs lovely Marine Parade lures the visitor with a variety of attractions. Performing dolphins and seals can be seen at Marineland , while the HawkeÕs Bay Aquarium has a fascinating collection of marine life including sharks and piranhas. New ZealandÕs unique tuatara is also on display here. Close to Marineland is the Stables Complex . The attractions here are a waxworks museum and Ô Earthquake Ô31Õ, a simulation of the great quake. They also show historic movie footage taken before and after the Napier earthquake. 133

Above: Gannet’s Safaris, Cape Kidnappers, Hawke’s Bay Left: Anaura Bay, East Cape

Below: Te Mata Peak, Hawke’s Bay

Art Deco

P

opular in the 1920Õs and 30Õs in France and the US, the Art Deco style was a product of the early 20th centuryÕs optimistic belief in the virtues of technology and material progress. Speed, glamour, elegance and sophistication were the ideals of this new industrial age. Art Deco reflected this by replacing the intricate forms that characterised its predecessor Art Nouveau with streamlined forms that symbolised those ideals and which were more suited to the machine-made objects of mass production. The hallmarks of Art Deco were simple geometrical lines and shapes (zigzags, chevrons, the rising sun), exotic colours and the use of modern man-made materials like plastic, The influence of the Art Deco style was most apparent in furniture, fabrics, jewelry and interior design, but it also left its mark on ceramics, typography and much else besides. Its use in architecture was predominantly of a decorative nature. Outstanding international examples of Art Deco architecture include the Chrysler Building (1930) in New York City and the Art Deco District of Miami Beach, Florida. Although Art Deco was applied to individual buildings elsewhere in New Zealand, it was only in Napier and Hastings that it came to be used as a planned feature of the townscape. After the devastating earthquake that struck both towns in 1931, architects had the unique chance of rebuilding entire streets in the styles en vogue at the time (Mediterranean styles such as Spanish Mission were also used). In the depression years of the Thirties the choice could not have been better: Art Deco buildings with brightly coloured facades and lively patterns, seemed to affirm an optimistic faith in the future. The massive rebuilding scheme also provided much needed work Ñ a positive side effect of the disaster. Today Napier celebrates its architectural heritage with an Art Deco Weekend. Featuring fancy dress, Deco tours and balls, it takes place on the third weekend in February.

During Napier’s Art Deco Weekend the Roaring Twenties are brought back to life

E a s t

C a p e

&

The Napier-Hastings earthquake is also featured at the excellent HawkeÕs Bay Museum, further north along the Marine Parade. One of the best permanent exhibitions here is Nga Tukemata (The Awakening) which deals with the art of the East CoastÕs Ngati Kahungunu people. Other permanent exhibitions cover Art Deco, colonial history and arts and crafts in New Zealand. North of the museum, the Kiwi House is unique in that it is the only such place in New Zealand where visitors can actually touch and feed a kiwi. Other creatures kept here include bush-geckoes, native landsnails, moreporks and whistling frogs. Those in search of a great view should venture to the top of Bluff Hill where the look-out offers a panoramic vista of the entire Hawke Bay coastline. To get there, follow the signpost from Lighthouse Road at the northern end of town.

Around Napier The biggest natural attraction in the vicinity of Napier is the colony of Australasian gannets ( Sula bassana serrator ) at Cape Kidnappers . This is the worldÕs largest mainland gannet colony, the only other one being at Muriwai Beach, near Auckland. These large sea-birds usually only breed on small isolated islands, so Cape Kidnappers provides a unique opportunity to see them up close. The best time to view the birds is between early November and late February. There are organised trips out to the colony but for those who want to walk the starting point is Clifton Domain, 13 miles (21km) south-east 136

H a w k e Õ s

B a y

of Napier, near Te Awanga . The 5 mile (8km) walk runs along the beach and takes about two hours. As this route is only possible when the tide is out, it is best to start 3 hours after high tide and to return no later than 1 1 /2 hours after low tide. Tide schedules are available from the Napier Information Centre.

Hastings Only 12 1 /2 miles (20km) further south of Napier, on SH2, Hastings is set in the middle of the HawkeÕs Bay fruit and wine-growing region. During harvest season, roadside stalls are literally brimming over with bargain-priced citrus fruits and

HastingsÕ architecture Destroyed like Napier in the 1931 earthquake, the town was rebuilt in a similar fashion. There are some good examples of Art Deco architecture but it is the Spanish Mission style in particular that captures attention here. This style is fairly easy to recognise by such features as curving, rounded gables, orange roof tiles and roughcast walls. In other words if the building looks as if it belongs on a Spanish hacienda, then it was built in the Spanish Mission style. A number of impressive buildings in this style can be seen along Russell, Eastbourne and Heretaunga streets.

E a s t

C a p e

&

H a w k e Õ s

B a y

Puriri (Vitex lucens)

T

he puriri is a sub-tropical tree with wood as hard and as durable as teak. It can reach an impressive age and if it were not for the fact that its timber has an irregular grain and is difficult to work, it might very well have been as prized as that of the kauri. The trees produce small flowers throughout most of the year and can reach a height of 65ft (20m). The puriri is only found in the northern half of the North Island.

other fresh produce. There are also several wineries producing some excellent wines, to ensure that those who follow the HawkeÕs Bay wine trail (contact information office for details) will have a pleasurable time. Other places to visit include the HawkeÕs Bay Exhibition Centre, with its changing exhibitions of local, national and international art and if you are travelling with children Fantasyland leisure park. In nearby Havelock North, Keirunga Gardens with its miniature railway is another great place to take the children. A short drive away Te Mata Peak (1,308ft/399m) awaits, with breathtaking views and a fine restaurant from which to enjoy them.

Norsewood From Hastings continue south on SH2, through the sheep farming areas of Waipawa and Waipukurau, to Norsewood. This tiny place (population 330), was founded by Scandinavian settlers

who arrived here in 1872. The few reminders of those early pioneering days are to be found in Upper Norsewood in the Norsewood Pioneer Museum. Also close by, in a glassed boat-house, is the fishing boat Bindalsfareing , a gift from the Norwegian government. Handy to the museum is a pleasant tearoom where you can enjoy a Devonshire tea on the porch. Woollen garments can be bought directly from the Norsewear factory in Lower Norsewood, opposite is an interesting crafts shop.

Moving on Further south SH2 passes through Dannevirke, another old Scandinavian settlement, and eventually reaches Woodville . From here the visitor can choose between two routes to Wellington : either go west though the scenic Manawatu Gorge and then via Palmerston North and Levin to join SH1, or continue on SH2 through the little visited Wairarapa region (see Chapter 6). 137

A

East Cape & HawkeÕs Bay

ACTIVITIES Gisborne

Opotiki

Fishing Trips

Fishing Trips

East Coast Fishing Guide Service David Dods ☎ (06) 862 7850 Trout fishing.

Mark Draper Fishing & Outdoors PO Box 445 ☎/Fax (07) 315 7434 Trout fishing.

Kayaking/Canoeing

Jet Boating

Bay Kayaks Ltd 364 Ormond Rd ☎/Fax (06) 837 3737 or 837 3818 Tours on Lake Waikaremoana and also hire.

Motu River Jet Boat Tours ☎/Fax (07) 315 8107 The same company also offer white water rafting trips.

Gisborne Health & Fitness Centre 4 Whitmore Street ☎ (06) 867 3977 Canoe hire.

Napier Jet Boating HawkeÕs Bay Jet Tours ☎ (06) 874 9703 On the Ngaruroro River. Above: Exhilerating jet boat rides can be enjoyed on a number of North Island Rivers Left: Norsewood Pioneer Museum

138

A Kayaking/Canoeing Eastland Kayak ☎ (07) 315 4839

Mountain-Bike Tours Very popular mountain-bike tours are organised by Dreamers and East-Capers, ☎ (07) 315 5577. Trips include a one day ride along the Old Motu coach road which goes through some magnificent scenery and a 6 day tour which allows time for snorkelling, fishing and kayaking along the way. Those with their own bikes get a discount on all tours.

Te Urewera National Park Tramping Intercity buses run between Rotorua and Wairoa on Mon, Wed, & Fri. The Waikaremoana Shuttle runs on demand from Tuai to the Visitor Centre and a few other destinations in the park. ☎ (06) 837 3855 or 837 3836 A ferry service operates from the Motor Camp on the shores of Lake Waikaremoana. It does a loop around the lake (with stops) twice a day in summer.

ACCOMMODATION See pages 288 and 300 in the FactFile for the accommodation and restaurant rating guide

Gisborne

Napier

Gisborne Backpackers $ 690 Gladstone Road ☎ (06) 868 1000 Fax (06) 868 4000 Originally an orphanage it now caters to homeless visitors. The recently opened Flying Nun Backpackers (147 Roebuck Rd, ☎ (06) 868 0461) was once a convent!

Criterion Backpackers Inn $ 48 Emerson Street Mall ☎ (06) 835 2059 Located in an attractive Art Deco building right in the middle of town.

Colonial Motor Lode $$ 715 Gladstone Rd ☎ (06) 867 9165 Fax (06) 867 4099

Pinehaven Travel Hotel $$ 259 Marine Parade ☎/Fax (06) 835 5575 Small guest house with simply furnished rooms.

Green Gables Travel Hotel $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 31 Rawiri Street Kaiti ☎ (06) 867 9872

Masonic Hotel $$ Tennyson Street ☎ (06) 835 8689 Fax (06) 835 2297 A lovely Art Deco building.

Opotiki Central Oasis Backpackers $ 30 King Street ☎ (07) 315 5165 A renovated Kauri villa near shops. 139

A Masonic Hotel $$ Church Street, ☎ (07) 315 6115 Central location.

Tokomaru Bay House of the Rising Sun $ PO Box 100 ☎ (06) 864 5858 Close to beach, free bikes. Pub nearby.

East Cape & HawkeÕs Bay Whanarua Bay Rendezvous on the Coast Holiday Park $ Private Bag 1114, Opotiki ☎/Fax (07) 325 2899 Tent sites and cabins. Hire diving equipment & kayaks.

EATING OUT Gisborne CafŽ Villaggio $ 57 Ballance Street ☎ (06) 868 1611 A good place to try the local wine. Marina $$ Marina Park ☎ (06) 868 5919 Lovely old building next to the river. Good wine list, seafoods, lamb and game. Pinehurst Manor $$$ 4 Clifford Street ☎ (06) 868 6771 Dine within the elegant confines of an old mansion.

Hastings The Cat & Fiddle Ale House $ 502 Karamu Road ☎ (06) 878 4111 English style pub food. St George Estate Vineyard Restaurant $ St Georges Road South Havelock North ☎ (06) 877 5356 Nice place for lunch on a fine summerÕs day. 140

Vidal Winery Brasserie $$ 913 St Aubyns Street East ☎ (06) 876 8150 Also a good bet for a glass of wine with the meal.

Napier Golden Crown Restaurant $ (BYO) 38 Dickens Street ☎ (06) 835 5996 Chinese food, also takeaways. Gumnuts Restaurant $ New Provincial Hotel Cnr Emerson St & Clive Square ☎ (06) 835 6934 Vegetarian and seafood. Restaurant Indonesia $$ (BYO/Licensed) 409 Marine Parade ☎ (06) 835 8303 One of the countryÕs best Indonesian restaurants. Bayswater on the Beach $$$ Hardinge Road Ahuriri ☎ (06) 835 8517 One of NapierÕs best.

A PLACES TO VISIT Gisborne Eastwood Hill Arboretum Rere Road (22miles/35km from Gisborne) Open: daily 10am-4pm. Museum & Arts Centre Stout Street Open: 10am-4pm Mon-Fri; Sat, Sun and public holidays 1.30-4pm. Poho-o-Rawiri Meeting House Open: contact tourist office for details. Star of Canada Maritime Museum Stout Street Open: same as Arts Centre.

Hastings Fantasyland Grove Road Open: daily . HawkeÕs Bay Exhibition Centre Eastbourne Street Open: 10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri. Weekends 12noon-4.30pm.

Havelock North Keirunga Park Railway Keirunga Park Open: 1st & 3rd Sun of each month 11am-4pm.

Morere

Gannet Beach Adventures Charlton Rd ☎/Fax (06) 875 0898 Depart Charlton Rd on a trailer pulled by a tractor. Booking is essential. Gannet Safaris RD2, Hastings ☎ (06) 875 0511 Depart Summerlee Station, near Te Awanga on a 4-wheel-drive vehicle. Quadventures ☎ (06) 836 6652 Depart daily on 4-wheel motor-bikes from SullivanÕs Motor Camp, Te Awanga. Refreshments are provided.

Napier HawkeÕs Bay Aquarium Marine Parade. Open: daily 9am-5pm. Feeding 3.15pm. HawkeÕs Bay Museum Marine Parade Open: daily 10am-4.30pm. Kiwi House Marine Parade Open: daily 11am-3pm. Show at 1pm. Feeding at 2pm. Marineland of NZ Marine Parade Open: daily 10am-4.30pm. Shows 10.30am & 2pm.

Hot Springs Open: 10am-5pm.

Stables Complex 321 Marine Parade Open: daily 9am-5pm.

Te Awanga

Norsewood

Cape Kidnappers Gannet Colony Open: The season is October to April. Transport provided by:

Norsewood Pioneer Museum Coronation St Open: daily 9am-4.30pm. 141

A

East Cape & HawkeÕs Bay

REGIONAL TRANSPORT To get around the East Cape on the coastal road you need the services of a number of local bus companies:

Opotiki to Hicks Bay Eastland Backpackers (☎ (07) 315 4870) operate a passenger service to Hicks Bay as do Hicks Bay Backpackers Lodge (☎ (06) 864 4731).

Hicks Bay to Gisborne Fastway has a daily courier service to Gisborne ☎ (06) 868 9080.

Gisborne to Opotiki Super Shuttle operates a daily service (except Sat.) from Gisborne to Opotiki and Rotorua ☎ (07) 349 3444.

VISITOR INFORMATION & PARK VISITOR CENTRES Gisborne

Opotiki

Eastland & Gisborne District Information Centre 209 Grey Street, PO Box 170 Open: daily 8am-5pm, longer in summer. ☎ (06) 868 6139 Fax (06) 868 6138

Cnr St John & Elliott Street, PO Box 591 ☎ (07) 315 8484 Fax (07) 315 6102

Hastings Russell Street ☎ (06) 878 0510 Fax (06) 878 0512

Napier Marine Parade Open: 8.30am-5pm weekdays, 9am-5pm weekends. ☎ (06) 834 4161 Fax (06) 835 7129

Te Urewera National Park For information contact the following address: Aniwaniwa Visitor Centre Aniwaniwa Postal address: Private Bag 2213, Wairoa ☎ (06) 837 3803

DOC East Coast Conservancy PO Box 668, 63 Carnarvon Street Gisborne ☎ (06) 867 8531

Wairoa Cnr SH2 and Queen Street ☎/Fax (06) 838 7440

142

WANGANUI, THE WAIRARAPA & WELLINGTON Covered here is the capital city of Wellington with its beautiful Harbour, the ÔRiver CityÕ Wanganui and a thinly populated region known as the Wairarapa. Palmerston North is the starting point for exhilarating jet-boat trips through the Manawatu Gorge; Mt Bruce National Wildlife Centre is a magnet for nature lovers and Cape Palliser, the southernmost point of the North Island, is a place for those who value seclusion above all else. At the Cape there is nothing but a lighthouse, a seal colony and all the peace and quiet that anybody could ever wish for.

¥ ROUTE 8 ¥ FROM WANGANUI TO WELLING TON Wanganui is reached along SH3 for those coming from Taranaki (Chapter 4), but SH4 offers the most direct route if you are coming from Ohakune near Tongariro National Park. It is at Wanganui that New ZealandÕs longest navigable river, the Whanganui, enters the Tasman

Sea and it is this river that gives the city much of its attractive character.

Wanganui The best way to appreciate the cityÕs location on the banks of the Whanganui is to take the elevator to

Above: The Wanganui River

143

Wanganui, The Wairapara & Wellington

Spell check A note: According to the logic of such Maori place-names as Whakatane and Whangarei, the name ÔWanganuiÕ should be spelled ÔWhanganuiÕ. However the ÔhÕ has only been restored to the river and the national park. On older maps they still leave out the ÔhÕ in the riverÕs name.

the top of Durie Hill. It is reached through a long tunnel and actually ascends through the hill itself. At the top is a look-out tower with splendid views over the city to the coast and even as far as Mt Taranaki in clear weather. Not far away there are even better views from the top of the Durie Hill War Memorial Tower .

City Centre Taking the elevator back down again, the City Centre is only a short walk away over City Bridge. Continue up Victoria Avenue . WanganuiÕs main shopping thoroughfare has undergone a complete facelift in recent years and many of the old colonial buildings have been restored to their former glory. Further along the avenue a glance to the right will reveal a hill upon which the visitor will find WanganuiÕs main cultural attractions. First and foremost is the excellent Whanganui Regional Museum . Its Maori collection, featuring a huge war canoe that could hold 70 men, is one of New ZealandÕs finest. Other displays deal with colonial and natural history Ñ note the skeletons of extinct moas in the New Zealand birds section. Also not to be missed is a collection of Maori portraits by Gottfried Lindauer (1839-1926). 144

Nearby the Sergeant Art Gallery houses a collection of paintings from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Important New Zealand artists represented here include J.C. Hoyte, John Gully and C.F. Goldie. Outside the building presents a rather Mediterranean aspect with its domed roof and surrounding palms. Maori culture comes to the fore again at Putiki Church in Anaua Street. Though plain from the outside, the interior of the church is magnificently decorated with carvings and woven wall panels (tukutuku). However, if old river boats are more to your taste, then a visit to the wreck of the paddle steamer Waimarie, near the Wanganui Riverboat Centre on Taupo Quay, might be of interest. The 102ft (34m) boat is being restored and should be back on the river in 2 or 3 years.

Other attractions There are a number of pleasant parks scattered around the city, where visitors can stretch their legs or take a picnic. Perhaps loveliest of all is Virginia Lake, about half a mile (1km) north of the City Centre along Great North Road (head in the direction of New Plymouth). Kowhai Park , with its imaginative

Wanganui, The Wairapara & Wellington

childrenÕs playground, is on the same side of the river as Durie Hill. It spreads along the river bank near Dublin Street Bridge but can also be reached by crossing City Bridge and then following a path along the river.

River trip The highlight of any visit to Wanganui Ñ for many perhaps the highlight Ñ is a river trip. One of the more romantic ways to do this, is to board the historic paddle steamer Otunui (1908). The old riverboat sails to a number of destinations along the river but the trip to Holly Lodge Winery is especially popular. There are also jet boats operating on the river for those who like a faster pace.

An interesting day trip from Wanganui is the excursion to Bushy Park, some 15 miles (24km) away. To get there drive in the direction of New Plymouth as far as Kai Iwi , then turn off to the right and follow the side road another 5 miles (8km). The scenic reserve features an historic homestead built in 1906 and easy walks through native bush. If you want a change from sterile motel rooms, accommodation is also available at the homestead which offers guests a unique colonial atmosphere at very reasonable prices.

The Whanganui River Road The Whanganui River Road follows the Whanganui River from Wanganui

to Pipiriki, 49 miles (79km) north of the city. The partly unsealed road takes visitors into a remote part of New Zealand steeped in Maori and colonial history. Sprinkled along the way, tiny Maori settlements with names like Atene (Athens) and Hiruharama (Jerusalem) act as reminders of early missionary activity in the area. About 14 miles (23km) short of Pipiriki is the restored Kawana Flour Mill . Flour was first ground here in 1854 and the mill operated for over 50 years before falling into disuse. Next to the mill is a colonial style cottage that once belonged to the miller. Pipiriki serves as a gateway to the rugged beauty of Whanganui National Park. In the days when riverboats regularly plied the river, the settlement boasted an elegant hotel with guests from all over the world. Fire destroyed the hotel in 1959 and at present the only place to stay is a simple campsite. The DOC office provides information about the park and a small museum housed in a colonial cottage has exhibits on the history of the river and Pipiriki. Also of interest in the village is the MV Ongarue , an old riverboat built in 1903 and now displayed on land. The return trip is made by continuing north-east to Raetihi, then following scenic SH4 back to Wanganui. The entire journey covers 112 miles (180km) and motorists should note that there are no petrol stations between Upokongaro at the south end and Raetihi at the north end. If you do not have your own transport Ñ or even if you do Ñ a great way to explore the River Road is with the ÒMail BusÓ which leaves Wanganui each weekday. The driver 145

Wanganui, The Wairapara & Wellington

provides a commentary on places of scenic and historic interest and also stops at various points along the way. If you are travelling under your own steam, it is well worth getting hold of the DOC pamphlet The River Road Scenic and Historic Drive , available at the DOC office or tourist information in Wanganui. Also available at these places is the very detailed booklet A MotoristÕs Guide to the Wanganui River Road by Judith Crawley.

Whanganui National Park The main attraction of this park is of course the Whanganui River , New ZealandÕs second longest, which commences its 204 mile (329km) journey to the sea on the flanks of Mt Tongariro . But the park also protects one of the most remote areas of wilderness in the central North Island. Largely untouched tracts of podocarp-broadleaf forest, alive with native birds, are only accessible to canoeists or to those prepared to shoulder their backpacks for several days along the parkÕs main hiking trails. The river has a long history as a transportation route. In preEuropean times the Maori used it as a link between the coast and the North IslandÕs rugged interior. With the arrival of European settlers, a steamer service was eventually established between the two main settlements of Wanganui and Taumarunui . The first riverboat commenced operation in 1886 and before long there was a fleet of twelve boats serving isolated farming communities along the river. 146

Due to the magnificent scenery tourism was also quick to develop on the river and the three day trip between the two main settlements became a must for visitors to the country. To cope with the boom the luxury hotel Pipiriki House was built in 1892 and in one year (1905) 12,000 guests were recorded as having stayed here. By the 1920Õs however the boom was over. The decline of the riverboat industry was coupled with several factors. Erosion, difficulty of access and the sheer ruggedness of the landscape, forced many farmers along the stretch of river north of Pipiriki to abandon their farms. Rising costs and the development of road and rail dealt the final blow and steamer services ended in 1958. Since then, however, tourism has revived on the river, with jetboating and canoeing becoming increasingly popular activities.

Whanganui canoe tour The canoe trip down the river from Taumarunui to Pipiriki, right through the middle of the park, is one of the most enjoyable outdoor experiences that a visitor to New Zealand can have. Riverside camping, narrow gorges and dense forest reaching right down to the waterÕs edge, are highlights of this 4-5 day paddle tour. Because of the riverÕs gentle gradient, the trip is also suitable for the inexperienced.

Wanganui, The Wairapara & Wellington Taumarunui

WANGANUI, WAIRARAPA & WELLINGTON

Raetihi

Pipiriki

Wa

o ad er R

Ri v ng an

Napier

ui

Ri v

er

Mangaweka

4

Bushy Park

1

iv e aR

r

ang Ru

54

Fielding

Manawatu Gorge

3

2

ahi ne R

Wanganui

e

Po h a

ng

in

Woodville

Palmerston North

Levin

Eketahuna 2

52

1

Tar

Kapiti Island

ara

Ra

nge

Mount Bruce

National Wildlife Centre Wairarapa Arts Centre

Tinui Castlepoint

Masterton Tauwera

Paraparaumu

Paraparaumu Beach

Featherston

Porirua

Lake Wairarapa

2

Martinborough

Upper Hutt Lower Hutt

Wellington Palliser Bay 0 0

15 15

30miles 30kms

Cape Palliser

147

Wanganui, The Wairapara & Wellington

Walking in the Park Tramping in Whanganui National Park is made somewhat complicated because of the need to arrange transport. As the two main tracks either start or end on the Whanganui River, a jet boat must be arranged to pick you up or drop you off before setting out. Both the Matemateonga Walkway and the Mangapurua Track are easy 3-4 day walks. The latter is given a bit of historical interest by the ÔBridge to NowhereÕ. This large concrete structure was built in 1936, at a time when many settler-farmers were already leaving the isolated Mangapurua Valley. By 1942 the valley was completely abandoned. Regenerating forest has now covered the approaches to the bridge, which remains as a poignant symbol of the settlersÕ vain attempt to cultivate the land. From Wanganui, SH3 continues south to Palmerston North . This

university town has no major attractions to hold the touristÕs interest, though the Science Centre and Manawatu Museum is worth a visit. A jet-boat trip through the scenic Manawatu Gorge might also justify a longer stay. The visitor information office on The Square will have details of this and other activities in the area.

The Wairarapa The Wairarapa region is reached by first travelling east through the Manawatu Gorge in the direction of Woodville. From here SH2 runs south through sheep and dairy farming country to the National Wildlife Centre at Mount Bruce . Another 6 miles (10km) south of the National Wildlife Centre is the Mt Bruce Pioneer Museum . It prides itself as being WairarapaÕs largest private museum with items ranging from waterwheels to gramophones.

Mt Bruce Wildlife Centre The Wildlife Centre is fascinating for anybody who has an interest in New ZealandÕs unique fauna. Here it is possible to see some of the rarest birds and reptiles in the world. A track leads through beautiful forest, past large outdoor aviaries where the habitat of native birds is simulated as closely as possible. The visitor can see kokakos, saddlebacks, keas and kakapos, all of which are found no where else but in New Zealand. In the nocturnal house there are not only kiwis but also the rare tuatara, a lizard-like survivor from the age of the dinosaurs. One of the prize exhibits is the takahe, a large flightless bird that was presumed extinct until it was rediscovered in 1948. The breeding schemes and research carried out at the Centre play a vital role in the survival of the takahe and the countryÕs other endangered species.

148

Wanganui, The Wairapara & Wellington

Masterton Next stop is Masterton, the main area of the Wairarapa. The biggest attraction this prosperous farming town has to offer is the annual ÔGolden ShearsÕ shearing competition. Contestants come from all over New Zealand and overseas to demonstrate their skills at sheepshearing. A top shearer can remove the wool from a sheep in less than a minute, but the judges also control the quality of the shearing and not just the speed. Worth a longer look is the Wairarapa Arts Centre . Of particular interest here is the Stidolph Museum of Early Childhood with its collection of clockwork toys and antique dolls. There are also regular art and craft exhibitions held at the Centre.

Castlepoint Those who want to explore a little more of the WairarapaÕs rugged and sparsely populated hill country should consider making an excursion from Masterton to Castlepoint on the coast. The road goes via Tauweru and Tinui, a distance of 41 miles (66km). The first thing visitors will notice about this little seaside settlement is the lighthouse, built in 1913 and one of the tallest in the country (75ft/23m). There is good swimming in a sheltered lagoon known as the ÔBasinÕ and even a golf course. The annual race meeting, held in March on the sandy beach, has a tradition reaching back to last century. As there is accommodation (motel, camping grounds) and a store, Castlepoint would be a nice,

if very remote, place to escape the tourist crowds.

Featherston Featherston lies 22 miles (36km) south of Masterton on SH2, close to the shores of Lake Wairarapa . Railway enthusiasts in particular, will want to pause here to see the townÕs Fell Engine Museum. The Fell engine was designed to climb the steep Rimutaka Incline over the Rimutaka Range that separates Wellington from the Wairarapa . With a gradient of 1:15 to overcome, the locomotives could only manage a top speed of 3mph (5km/h) for the 3 mile (4.8km) journey up. The Fell engines were operated for 77 years, until the building of a

Cape Palliser A side trip for the more adventurous is to the most southerly point of the North Island at Cape Palliser. To get there, continue on from Martinborough in the direction of Lake Ferry, a tiny fishing settlement. Shortly before Lake Ferry there is a turn-off to Whangaimoana. From now on the road is largely unsealed as it follows the rugged, exposed coastline to the Cape. Drivers should note that several streams have to be forded which can be dangerous after heavy rain. At the Cape there is a lighthouse and the North IslandÕs largest seal colony.

149

Wanganui, The Wairapara & Wellington

Above: Sheep Farm, Palliser Bay, Wellington

Right: Woodward Street, Wellington

Below: Wellington Harbour

150

Wanganui, The Wairapara & Wellington

tunnel in 1955 made them obsolete. The beautifully restored engine on display is supposedly the only remaining Fell locomotive in the world. A walkway (4 hours one way) now follows the Incline. It can be reached by taking Western Lake Road south. To the south-east of Featherston is a wine growing district around Martinborough . Those who want to do their own tour of the vineyards should pick up the relevant brochure at the Information Centre in Masterton. From Featherston the main road winds its way over the windswept but very scenic Rimutaka Range before descending into the Hutt Valley to reach Wellington.

Wellington Tucked in between steep hills and a beautiful bay is New ZealandÕs capital city, Wellington . Nicknamed ÔWindy WellingtonÕ the weather here can be capricious to say the least. On a fine summerÕs day when the sunlight reflects off the waters of Oriental Bay and on the surrounding hills, the red or blue painted tin roofs of the houses form intense spots of colour in the crystal clear air. There can be little doubt that the city is one of the loveliest in the world. Architecturally too the city has much to offer. It is fascinating just to walk around the downtown area, through narrow canyons formed by glass-fronted skyscrapers to be suddenly surprised by a quaint relic from the Victorian era or an impressive example of post-modernist design. Steep flights of steps climb up past boutiques and snack bars, a

spacious square provides unexpected respite from the chaos of city traffic; everywhere there seem to be nooks and crannies waiting to be explored. In fact a walk around the inner city is as easy as it is rewarding; WellingtonÕs geographical situation has left little room for expansion except up and most places of interest are quickly reached on foot.

Parking tip For those who have arrived by car a good place to park is near the Maritime Museum at QueenÕs Wharf, Jervois Quay. There is usually plenty of room here and it is not far to the City Centre. Another car park that is very handy is at the Michael Fowler Centre, Wakefield Street. Finding free parking in downtown Wellington is time consuming and for visitors probably a fruitless exercise.

City walk If a walk around the city is started on QueenÕs Wharf then the first place of interest is the Maritime Museum . On display here is a large-scale model of the Harbour, model ships and other maritime memorabilia. A perfect way of rounding off the museum visit is to depart on a Harbour cruise with the East by West Ferry , only a short stroll away. However, land-lovers might prefer to walk through nearby Frank Kitts Park , a nice place to sit and just watch the boats go by. From here, cross Jervois Quay Ñ not on the 151

Wanganui, The Wairapara & Wellington

WELLINGTON 2

ori

St

t

t

Hill S

hy S

worth

St 4

3 5

o12

ers

eT

ay

Qu

ou mh

St

ott

sto

ulc

a Str ee t

ori

Vic t ba t iS

Cu Ma ba ll

urte

ran

ak

Co

Ta

100m 100yds

50

Ca

re

et

ble 26 St

To Wellington Airport

Marina

e rad Pa Pla t l a ce t hS t ien urg Or oxb er S RM awk arj ori ba nk Eli sS za Charles t be Plimmer th St Pir Park le St

nay

Oriental

Pa

ra

H

Mt Victoria Tunnel

ou To Airport

nS

t

27

Town Belt Bus Tunnel

a Rd

Alex andr

St

ela

ide

To Zoo

Ad

Tas

ma

nS

t

ReBasi se n r y S ve t

gb

gh am

Ca Ke mb nt rid Te ge rra Te ce rra ce

t iS ak ran

Ru

St

sti

ian

Au

Viv

St

St

Br

ba

ith

Ta Wallace St

152

St

Cu

St Sm

50

P

St

Th

illis W t ia S

t

P

St

0

22 24 23 25

eS

Cu

t

le

St

Vic

tor

ian

P

d iel ef

bS

t

ne

0

21

ak

eb

Ch

uz

Viv

nS

Lambton Harbour

18

W

W

Cu

Bo

err eT

St

xo

16 17

se

Fe

ath

Th

Sa

11

20

ners

ac e

Man

Di

15

Jervois Quay

19

Ab

14

err

lam anc

aR d

10

ay

ilw n nd a tio or 13R Sta ay h t Qu ut S T Sto loo r ate W 8

a ce Lam bt nQ y ton ua St

Botanic Gardens

7

Qu

t

on S

Bolt

6

St

on

ow

en

ay

B 9

on St

Murp

eston

Rd

Moles

Hawk

1

Hobs

ak

M

Aotea Quay

Hu

Tin

n

ba

Ur

d tt R

y

wa

or

ot

Mount Victoria

de

Wanganui, The Wairapara & Wellington

Wellington 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Cook Strait Ferry Terminal Katherine Mansfield's Birth Place Old St Paul's National Library & Alexander Turnbull Library National Archives and the Portrait Gallery Beehive City Bus Depot Old Gvt. Buildings Lady Norwood Rose Gardens New Zealand Astronomy Centre Kelburn Cable Car

first footbridge but on the second, larger one. This unusually designed wooden structure is known as the ÔCity to Sea BridgeÕ and is decorated with modern sculptures. It leads to Civic Square , one of the cityÕs architectural highlights. The first thing to do in the square is to arm oneself with a free map and a few useful brochures from the Information Centre. Of interest on

12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27

Central Police Station Post Office Waterloo Quay Customhouse Quay East by West Ferry (Harbour Cruises) Maritime Museum Queen's Wharf Antrim House & Dept of Conservation Public Library Frank Kitts Park City Art Gallery City to Sea Bridge Capital Discovery Place Michael Fowler Centre Museum of New Zealand Mount Victoria Lookout

the square itself is the Capital Discovery Place, a scie nce area designed for children, the Michael Fowler Centre, where concerts are held, and the Wellington City Art Gallery . An interesting feature of the public library, at the north end of the square , is the Ônikau palmÕ columns on the outside of the building. The building was designed by Ian Athfield, one of New ZealandÕs leading architects.

The Museum of New Zealand Ñ T e Papa Tongarewa The museum has been moved from its old site at Buckle Street and is now to be found on Cable Street. It can be reached by continuing south-east from the Civic Centre along Cable Street and would make a good alternative starting point for a stroll around town. Another architectural tour de force, the buildingÕs interior, has been designed to reflect the fact that New Zealand is a land of two different cultures. This is realised architectonically by linking the display rooms devoted to Maori and Pakeha culture by bridges, and by making the triangular room which is dedicated to the Treaty of Waitangi the architectonic heart of the building. The museumÕs Maori and Pacific Island collections are outstanding and they alone would justify a visit. Especially noteworthy is a carved meeting house from near Gisborne that was built around 1842 and the exhibition of polynesian sailing vessels. In the People of New Zealand exhibition, light is shed on various important events in the countryÕs colonial history.

153

Wanganui, The Wairapara & Wellington

Above: A modern skyscraper dwarfs one of Wellington’s old wooden buildings Below: Civic Square, Wellington

154

From Civic Square continue along Mercer Street, then turn left on Willis Street, one of the main shopping thoroughfares. After passing the imposing Majestic Tower building turn right, up Manners Street, to Boulcott Street. Here you can visit historic Antrim House (1905), an Edwardian building that is now headquarters of the Historic Places Trust. Plimmer Steps, a short distance further on, lead down to busy Lambton Quay . A pleasant detour can be made from Lambton Quay by taking the cable car up to Kelburn . At the top there is a restaurant with superb views over the city and Harbour. An alternative place to have lunch or a snack is in the nearby Botanic Gardens. The Tea House is located in the Lady Norwood Rose Garden. Also in the gardens, near the upper cable car terminus, is the New Zealand Astronomy Centre with its planetarium. Return the same way. Continue north along Lambton Quay, until you reach the intersection with Bowen and Whitmore Street. Across the intersection, on

Wanganui, The Wairapara & Wellington

the right, is the Old Government Building. Built in 1876 it is the second largest wooden building in the world, only a temple in Japan is larger. On the opposite side of the road is the Parliament Buildings complex with the distinctive Beehive. Designed by British architect Sir Basil Spence and completed in 1981, the aptly named building houses all the ministerial offices, including that of the Prime Minister. A tour of the Beehive and the House of Representatives can be arranged ☎ 471-94577. The National Library complex is only a short distance away, on the corner of Molesworth and Aitken Street. Apart from housing the most comprehensive collection of books in the country, the library also has a gallery where art exhibitions are held. Incorporated within the complex is the Alexander Turnbull Library with its important collection of historical manuscripts and photographs relating to New ZealandÕs colonial past. Continue down Aitken Street to Mulgrave Street where art and the past is again the subject at the National Archives . Displayed here for posterity is the original Treaty of Waitangi together with other important early New Zealand documents. In the same building is the New Zealand Portrait Gallery . Just a few metres up the road the penultimate stop on this walk is Old St. PaulÕs(1866). The church does not look much from outside but the magnificent wooden interior is English Gothic at its best. It is hard to believe that for a long time it was in danger of being pulled down! Today most would agree that

the church that was built to replace it as a cathedral (St. PaulÕs Anglican Cathedral, Molesworth Street) has none of the charm of its predecessor. By continuing along Murphy Street and then turning right into Tinakori Road you will eventually reach Katherine MansfieldÕs Birthplace. New ZealandÕs most famous short story writer was born here in 1888 as Kathleen Beauchamp. Though she only lived at 25 Tinakori Road for the first few years of her childhood, the house is mentioned in her stories Prelude and A Birthday . An interesting video provides background to her life and there is also a display of photographs from the period, along with excerpts from her writing. The slightly more direct route back to the starting point is to go via Featherston Street. Otherwise return the same way along Lambton Quay where there are several good bookshops to browse through. The Quay, by the way, really did once mark WellingtonÕs waterfront. Lack of suitable building space in the inner-city meant that land reclamation had already begun in the nineteenth century and is continuing to this day.

Around Wellington A number of WellingtonÕs other attractions lie somewhat further afield and are best visited either by car or bus. Wellington Zoo is 2 1 /2 miles (4km) from the City Centre in the suburb of Newtown. Apart from typical zoo animals like lions and chimpanzees there are also some New Zealand originals here such as kiwis, giant wetas and tuataras. 155

Wanganui, The Wairapara & Wellington

Kapiti Island Kapiti Island lies a short distance off the coast near Paraparaumu, a town situated on SH1 north-west of Wellington. In the early 19th century the island was a base for the marauding expeditions led by the warrior chief Te Rauparaha. Skilled in warfare and aware of the advantages of Pakeha technology, the ÔMaori NapoleonÕ armed his warriors with muskets before embarking on a campaign of conquest that decimated rival tribes as far south as Kaiapoi, in the vicinity of Christchurch. These days the island is a wildlife reserve with strictly limited access. As it is now virtually devoid of mainland pests such as opossums and rats, (the result of an eradication scheme carried out by the DOC over a period of many years), the native birds and vegetation have been able to regenerate. Among the rarer birds visitors may be lucky to see are kaka parrots, saddlebacks and parakeets.

Paraparaumu Apart from being the departure point for boats to and around Kapiti Island, the seaside resort of Paraparaumu Beach (2 miles/3km from Paraparaumu) offers good swimming and other water activities like jet-skiing and windsurfing. Near Paraparaumu , the Southward Car Museum has a large collection of antique cars and motorcycles along with a few vintage aircraft. Special attractions include an 1895 Benz, Marlene DietrichÕs Rolls and some ingenious Kiwi contributions to the art of automotive design.

156

Marine Drive and Mt. Victoria Probably one of WellingtonÕs nicest excursions is the City Marine Drive . From Jervois Quay drive south towards picturesque Oriental Bay, then simply follow the coastal road to Owhiro Bay where the route leaves the coast and returns to the city along Happy Valley, Ohiro and Brooklyn Roads. Popular swimming spots along the way are at Oriental and Lyall Bays. This drive also allows the possibility of an excursion up to the look-out on Mt Victoria . To get there climb the hill along Marjoriebanks Street, then follow signs (though it helps to have a good map). Once at the top, and no doubt battered by WellingtonÕs infamous winds, you are rewarded with a panorama of city and Harbour second to none.

Eating out If the dayÕs sightseeing is to be concluded with a culinary treat then why not combine it with a dinner cruise ( Bluefin Cruises) on the Harbour? However, if the weather makes it seem more prudent to stay on shore you can still enjoy the atmosphere, together with a delicious seafood meal, at either Dockside or Shed 5 on QueenÕs Wharf. Otherwise take your pick; Chinese, Italian, Malaysian, Thai, Indian and even Mongolian fare can be consumed by candle-light and to a musical accompaniment ranging from classical to live jazz.

A ACTIVITIES Palmerston North Jet Boating Manawatu Jet Boat Tours ☎ (06) 326 8190 or (06) 356 8657 Through spectacular Manawatu Gorge. Minimum of 4 people.

Pipiriki Jet Boating ÒBridge To NowhereÓ Jet Boat Tours Jet Boat Tours, PO Box 192, Raetihi ☎/Fax (06) 385 4128 On the Whanganui River

Raetihi Boat Trips Wakapai River Trip RD6 Raetihi ☎/Fax (06) 385 4443 or contact tourist offices in Ohakune or Taumarunui. On a River Boat through Whanganui National Park. A 5 day, 4 night adventure package.

Wanganui Boat Trips Paddle Wheeler Otunui PO Box 763 ☎ (06) 345 0344 or (025) 432 997 Depart City Marina by town bridge at 10am, 12.10pm & 1pm.

Kayaking/Canoeing More operators offering tours on the Whanganui River are listed under Activities at the end of Chapter 4.

PatersonÕs Canoe Hire RD3, Wanganui ☎ (06) 343 7195 Rivercity Tours PO Box 4224 ☎ (06) 344 2554 or (025) 993 347 Guided tours on Whanganui River and hire. Also jet-boat tours. Whanganui River Experiences PO Box 377 ☎ (06) 345 7933 or freephone 0800 808 686 Guided trips and hire.

Jet Boating River City Cruises PO Box 314 ☎/Fax (06)343 9354 From Wanganui on Whanganui River.

Mail Bus Run River City Tours PO Box 4224 ☎ (06) 344 2554 Fax (06) 347 7888 The mail bus departs Wanganui on weekdays for the trip to Pipiriki. Very popular.

Whanganui National Park Tramping Matemateaonga Track: To walk the Matemateaonga from Wanganui a bit of arranging is necessary. Take the mail bus to Pipiriki. Catch the pre-booked jet boat to start of track (Bridge to Nowhere Jet Boat, address above). To get out to Stratford at other end either walk, hitch or arrange to be

157

A

Wanganui, The Wairapara & Wellington

Above: Demonstrations of shearing take place all over New Zealand, but a highlight of the shearing season is the annual Golden Shears competition held in Masterton (March)

Left: Wood chopping competitions may be seen at local fairs

Below: Canoes like this one, with its finely carved prow, were an important mode of transportation for the Maori

158

A picked up by Camp Ôn Canoe , Kaponga ☎ (06) 764 6738. The Wanganui Information Centre will be able to help with other transportation possibilities.

Wellington Boat Trips East by West (Trust Bank) Ferry From Queens Wharf to Days Bay. Trip takes 30 minutes. ☎ (04) 499 1273.

Blue Fin Harbour Cruises Daytime and evening cruises. Buffet meals served on afternoon (depart 1pm) and evening (7pm) cruises. Tea/coffee & scones with morning cruise (10am). Depart from Bluefin Wharf off end Whitmore St ☎ (04) 569 8203. Phantom of the Straits A full day tour on board a former Whitbread Round the World racing yacht. Departs QueenÕs Wharf ☎ (04) 473 1223.

ACCOMMODATION See pages 288 and 300 in the FactFile for the accommodation and restaurant rating guide

Masterton

Wanganui

Masterton Backpackers $ 22 Victoria Street ☎ (06) 377 2228 Friendly place.

Tamara Backpackers $ 24 Somme Parade ☎ (06) 347 6300 Overlooks the river.

Victoria House $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 15 Victoria Street ☎/Fax (06) 377 0186 Old colonial house, no smoking in rooms.

Grand Hotel $$ Cnr Guyton & Hill Sts ☎ (06) 345 0955 Fax (06) 345 0953 Old fashioned colonial style hotel.

Palmerston North Peppertree Hostel $ (Backpackers) 121 Grey Street ☎ (06) 355 4054 Fax (06) 355 4063 GreyÕs Inn $$ 123 Grey Street ☎ (06) 358 6928 Fax (06) 355 0291 Nice place, they prefer non-smokers.

River City Motel $$ 59 Halswell Street ☎/Fax (06) 343 9107

Wellington Maple Lodge $ (Backpackers) 52 Ellice Street ☎ (04) 385 3771 Non-smoking, close to City Centre. Capital View Motor Inn $$ 12 Thompsen Street ☎/Fax (04) 385 0515 Studios, units and a penthouse. Good views over Harbour from rooms. 159

A Harbour City Motor Inn $$ 92-96 Webb Street ☎ (04) 384 9809 Fax (04) 384 9806 Spa pool, some rooms have cooking facilities. Tinakori Lodge $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 182 Tinakori Road ☎ (04) 473 3478 Fax (04) 472 5554 Non-smoking, generous buffet breakfast. Trekkers Hotel/Motel $$ 213 Cuba Street ☎ (04) 385 2153 Fax (04) 382 8873 Spa pool. Sauna, guest kitchen. Also cheaper budget rooms.

Wanganui, The Wairapara & Wellington Wellington Motel $$ 14 Hobson Street ☎ (04) 472 0334 One of the cityÕs cheaper motels. Hotel Raffaele $$$ 360 Oriental Parade ☎ (04) 384 3450 Fax (04) 384 3652 Very good hotel, cheaper on weekends. James Cook Hotel $$$ 147 The Terrace ☎ (04) 499 9500 Fax (04) 499 9800 Like WellingtonÕs other luxury hotels cheaper on weekends.

EATING OUT Masterton Le Petit CafŽ $$ (BYO) 8 Bannister Street ☎ (06) 377 5776 A small but very good French restaurant. Alberts Restaurant $ 321 Victoria Avenue ☎ (06) 345 8408 Cables $$ 51 Victoria Street (BYO/Licensed) ☎ (06) 345 6891 Located in the old post office. Try the venison or lamb.

Wellington Space does not allow a complete rŽsumŽ of WellingtonÕs cafes and 160

restaurants but suffice it to say that a number of restaurants are located along Courtenay Place and Cuba Street. If you are looking for a nice cafe, try walking along Lambton Quay in the direction of the Beehive. Try also Plimmer Steps (off Lambton Quay) and Manners Mall or Cuba Mall. Angkor $ 43 Dixon Street ☎ (04) 384 9423 Basic decor but the Cambodian fare is good and the price is right. Great India $ (BYO/Licensed) 141 Manners Street ☎ (04) 384 5755 One of the cityÕs best Indian restaurants.

A Pico Cafe $ (BYO) 60 Ghuznee St ☎ (04) 384 9596 Vegetarian dishes, popular among visitors. Dockside Restaurant $$ Queens Wharf ☎ (04) 499 9900 In summer you can sit outside while enjoying your chargrilled swordfish. Sala Thai $$ 134 Cuba Street ☎ (04) 382 8780 Good Thai food, nice interior. Shed Five $$/$$$ QueenÕs Wharf ☎ (04) 499 9069 Seafood meals inside what used to be a woolshed. Very flash interior

which is divided between a restaurant and cheaper cafe and bar area. Luxury short cruises are offered aboard the Shed 5 launch. Champerelle $$$ 6 Edward Street ☎ (04) 385 0928 This restaurant has the cityÕs best wine list. Fujiyama Teppanyaki $$$ 36 Taranaki Street ☎ (04) 801 8699 Teppanyaki style Japanese cuisine. Grain of Salt Restaurant $$$ 1st Floor 232 Oriental Parade ☎ (04) 384 8642 Very upmarket, international cuisine.

GENERAL INFORMATION Wellington

Area Code: (04)

Important Telephone Numbers After Hours Medical After Hours Pharmacy Automobile Association (AA) Taxis

☎ 384 4944

Main Post Office Railway Station Open: Poste Restante mail can be collected Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm.

☎ 385 8810 ☎ 473 8738 ☎ 384 4444

Public Transport Airport Transport An airport shuttle service is provided by Super Shuttle (☎ 387 8787) and JohnstonÕs Shuttle Express(☎ 384 7654). They offer either a door to door service or a less expensive service from the railway station to the airport. The latter service is available Mon-Fri every half hour from 7.15am-5.45pm.

161

A

Wanganui, The Wairapara & Wellington

Bus Services & City Tours Most routes start beside the railway station and the bus stop on Courtenay Place. Ridewell (☎ 801 7000) gives information on public transport in the Wellington region. Bus route maps and timetables are available from tourist office. Useful to have is the Daytripper Pass which allows unlimited travel anywhere in Wellington city for one day. It can be bought on any Stagecoach bus. It is valid weekdays from 9am and at all hours on weekends ☎ 801 7000. Long Distance Buses belonging to InterCity (☎ 472 5111) and Newmans (☎ 499 3261) depart from Platform 9, Wellington Railway Station. Harbour Capital Tours: Faultline tour (1hr) departs 9am, Skyline tour (11/2 hrs) at 10.30am & Coastline tour (3 hrs) at 1.30pm. Tours depart from Information Centre, Civic Centre, Wakefield St ☎ 499 1282. Wally HammondÕs City Scenic Tours : Run 10am & 2pm daily. Depart Travelworld Holidaymakers Info. Office, cnr Mercer & Victoria Sts. For Hotel pick-up & return ☎ 472 0869. Unique Tours: Tours with an accent on Maori heritage. ☎ 383 6143 or 389 2057.

Trains Long distance and suburban trains depart from Wellington Railway Station. For information on long distance trains (☎ 498 3413 or, freephone 0800 802 802). For information about suburban trains ☎ 801 7000.

Nightlife & Entertainment Wellington Of all the countryÕs main cities it is the capital that has the best reputation for the quality and variety of its cultural offerings. Accordingly there is plenty to choose from. Live theatre can be enjoyed at Bats Theatre at 1 Kent Terrace, Circa Theatre at 1 Taranaki Street and the excellent Downstage Theatre on the corner of Cambridge Terrace and Courtenay Place. Taki Rua Theatre at 12 Alpha Street specialises in works produced by New Zealand authors. Concerts and other performances take place at the Michael Fowler Centre and Wellington Town Hall in Civic Square. The address for ballet and opera is the State Opera House in Manners Street. The cityÕs many pubs and nightclubs are the places to go for live music and dancing. Bar Bodega on the corner of Abel Smith and Willis Streets is open until late at night and serves good cocktails to the music of local bands. More upmarket is Shed 5 at Queens Wharf and 162

A FlanaganÕson the corner of Kent Terrace and Marjoribanks Streets. Other venues include Molly MaloneÕson the corner of Courtenay Place and Taranaki Street, the Thorndon Tavern on Molesworth Street and the Loaded Hog at 12-14 Bond Street. As always the Visitor Information Centre has a number of free publications which provide more information and addresses on what there is to see and do.

Left: Shed 5 Restaurant, Wellington Below: Jazz Combo, International Festival of the Arts, Wellington

163

A

Wanganui, The Wairapara & Wellington

PLACES TO VISIT Featherston

Palmerston North

Fell Engine Museum Middle of town Open: 10am-4pm Sat and school holidays. 10am-4pm Sun (October-April). 1-4pm Sun (May-September). Also by prior arrangement. ☎ (06) 308 9777

Science Centre & Manawatu Museum Between Main & Church Sts Open: daily 10am-5pm.

Kapiti Island

Wanganui

34 miles (55km) north-west of Wellington, near Paraparaumu Access to the wildlife reserve is strictly limited. Permits for a one day visit (no overnighting) must be obtained from the DOC office in Wellington. As demand is high, it is advisable to book your permit several weeks in advance. Details on boats out to the island are available from the DOC: Department of Conservation, Wellington Conservancy, 2nd Floor, Bowen State Building, Bowen St, Wellington (☎ 472 5821, Fax 499 0077)

Bushy Park 15 miles (24km) northwest of Wanganui Open: daily 10am-5pm. ☎ (06) 342 9879

Masterton

Antrim House 63 Boulcott Street Open: weekdays 9am-4.30pm.

Wairarapa Arts Centre Bruce Street Open: 10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; weekends 1.30-4.30pm.

Mount Bruce National Wildlife Centre On SH2 Open: daily 9am-4pm. Pioneer Museum On SH2 Open: most days.

164

Paraparaumu Southward Car Museum Open: daily 9am-4.30pm.

Sergeant Art Gallery QueenÕs Park/Civic Centre Open: 10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; weekends 1-4.30pm. Whanganui Regional Museum Watt Street/Civic Centre Open: 10am-4.40pm Mon-Sat; Sun 1-4.30pm.

Wellington

Capital Discovery Place Civic Square Open: 10am-5pm Sat & Sun and most public & school holidays. City Art Gallery Civic Square Open: 10am-6pm Tues-Fri, 10am8pm Thur, weekends 11am-5pm. Free entry Tues. Closed Mon. Katherine MansfieldÕs Birthplace 25 Tinakori Rd, Thornton Open: 10am-4pm. Closed Mon.

A Maritime Museum Queens Wharf, Jervois Quay Open: Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm; weekends & public holidays 1-4.30pm.

National Library & Alexander Turnbull Library Cnr Molesworth & Aitken Streets Open: Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat 9am-1pm.

Museum of New Zealand Cable Street Open: daily 10am-6pm. except Thursday 10am-9pm. This brand new museum building was opened in 1998. Restaurants and cafes within museum. Admission is free.

New Zealand Astronomy Centre Botanic Garden Open: daily 10am-5pm. Planetarium shows from 10.15am-4.15pm on weekends and public holidays.

National Archives & New Zealand Portrait Gallery 10 Mulgrave Street Open: Mon-Fri 9am-5pm & Sat 9am-1pm.

Old St PaulÕs Cathedral Mulgrave Street. Open: Mon-Sat 10am-4.30pm, Sun 1-4.30pm. Wellington Zoo Newtown Open: daily 8.30am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm). Best time to see the kiwis is 10am-12noon.

VISITOR INFORMATION & PARK VISITOR CENTRES Masterton Tourism Wairarapa Visitor Information Centre 5 Dixon Street, PO Box 814 ☎ (06) 378 7373 Fax (06) 378 7042

Palmerston North The Square PO Box 474 ☎ (06) 358 5003 Fax (06) 356 9481

Wanganui 101 Guyton Street, PO Box 637 Open: Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm, weekends 10am-2pm. ☎/Fax (06) 345 3286

Whanganui National Park Pipiriki, DOC Office ☎ (06) 385 4631

Taumarunui Taumarunui Field Centre, Cherry Grove ☎ (07) 895 8201 Wanganui DOC Office Cnr Ingestre & St. Hill Sts Open:Mon-Fri 8am-5pm. ☎ (06 )345 2402 Fax (06) 345 8712

Wellington Department Of Conservation (DOC) 59 Boulcott St ☎ (04) 471 0726 Information about Forest & National Parks. Wellington City Information Centre Cnr Wakefield & Victoria Streets, PO Box 2199 Open: daily 9am-5pm. ☎ (04) 801 4000 Fax (04) 801 3030 165

MARLBOROUGH & NELSON Marlborough and Nelson belong to the sunniest regions in New Zealand. Some of the countryÕs best wines are grown here and the local orchards can generally be counted on to produce bumper harvests of such popular exports as kiwifruit, apples and pears. Furthermore, nearly all New ZealandÕs tobacco and hops are grown on the small coastal plain around Motueka, on the western side of Tasman Bay. But not all the land has been given over to agriculture: both trampers and nature-lovers will find Abel Tasman National Park something akin to paradise on earth. Here it is possible to combine swimming with walking on the parkÕs splendid coastal track. Not so well known among tourists, but places of great beauty nevertheless, are Kahurangi National Park

(formerly North-West Nelson State Forest Park) and Nelson Lakes National Park further south. Over on the east coast at Kaikoura , visitors have the chance of getting close-up views of gigantic sperm whales. A leisurely cruise through the labyrinth of islands, bays and inlets that make up the Marlborough Sounds is also a fascinating experience.

Above: Alpine scenery, Nelson Lakes National Park

166

M a r l b o r o u g h

&

N e l s o n

¥ ROUTE 9 ¥

PICTON TO ST ARNA UD Picton

an ideal base for an exploration of the Marlborough Sounds . But perhaps an even better alternative for those who really want to get away from it all would be to stay in one of the remote lodges or farmstays elsewhere in the Sounds (see Additional Information for a few addresses). Most of them are only accessible by boat or amphibious aircraft and visitors will find the trip there as memorable as the stay itself.

Most people arrive in Picton, at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound, with the Cook Strait Ferry from Wellington. Accordingly this attractive little port is used by the majority of visitors only as a short transit stop on the way to or from the North Island. However, there are a few things to see and do here and with a wide range of accommodation the town makes

MARLBOROUGH & NELSON Farewell Spit

North Island

Golden Bay Abel Tasman National Park

Takaka Marahau Kahurangi Kaiteriteri National Park Tasman Bay Motueka

Takaka Bencarri Farm Park Pupu Springs Rawhiti Cave

63

Inangahua Junction

63

65

St Arnaud

Nelson Lakes National Park

ro u t

South Pacific Ocean

Kaikoura

Hanmer Springs 7

1

0 Arthur's Pass National Park

Lake Grassmere

rry

70

Lewis Pass Maruia Springs Lindis Pass

1

Wellington Fe

Lake Rotoiti

Lake Lyell Rotoroa

7

73

Waikawa Rarangi Tuamarina Blenheim

6

Murchison

Westport

Greymouth

Carluke

Nelson 67

1 2

Havelock Stoke Canvastown Picton

Karamea

South Island

6

Marlborough Sounds

Totaranui

e

Collingwood Te Anaroa Caves

30miles

7

To Christchurch

Waipara

0

30kms

167

M a r l b o r o u g h

&

N e l s o n

The Marlborough Sounds The Sounds are a complex system of drowned river valleys and islands that remain as a legacy of the Ice Ages. Today, large areas are protected as the Marlborough Sounds Maritime Park and though passengers on the Cook Strait Ferry will already have sailed through Queen Charlotte Sound, it is only on one of the launch cruises from either Picton or Havelock that you can get a really close look at the many secluded bays and bush-clad headlands that make up the park. One of the most popular trips on the Sounds is the Ô Magic Mail RunÕ cruise. TheM.V. Beachcomber departs Mondays and Thursdays, delivering mail and supplies to isolated homesteads scattered around Queen Charlotte Sound. For those who want to combine a launch cruise with a hiking trip, the Cougar Line offers a drop-off service to the start of the Queen Charlotte Walkway at Ship Cove. This three to four day walk is an ideal alternative to the summer crowds on the Abel Tasman track. Ship Cove was, incidentally, a popular anchorage for Captain James Cook, who returned here no less than five times during his exploration of the Pacific. A memorial commemorates the explorerÕs visits.

In town itself, the Smith Memorial Museum has an interesting collection of relics from the days when whaling was a profitable industry in the Marlborough Sounds. The hull of the Edwin Fox , a nineteenth century sailing ship that is going to be restored to its full glory in the hopefully not-too-distant future, is located next to the ferry terminal complex. Ultimately the ship will be used as a floating maritime museum. In the meantime visitors can inform themselves about the shipÕs fascinating history in the adjacent Edwin Fox Centre .

Round trip to Rarangi A pleasant excursion from Picton is the very windy but also very scenic coastal road via Waikawa to Rarangi . 168

It can be made into a round trip by returning to Picton via Tuamarina on SH1, a total distance of 68 miles (110km). Around Waikawa there are some secluded holiday homes, tucked away in luxuriant bush and with splendid views over Queen Charlotte Sound. It is the dream of many a New Zealander to own such a holiday home which is called a ÔbachÕ in the North Island but is also known as a ÔcribÕ in the South Island.

Blenheim Only 18 miles (29km) south of Picton, in the midst of a major winegrowing region, is the sun-kissed town of Blenheim. MarlboroughÕs wines have an international reputation for excellence and the vineyards around Blenheim can offer exclusive

M a r l b o r o u g h

vintages that it would be difficult to obtain elsewhere. Guided tours of the wineries with extensive tastings are conducted by Deluxe Travel Line ( ☎ (03) 578 5467), but a wine trail map is also available from the tourist office for those who want to visit the vineyards at their own pace. Among the wineries that serve meals are Allan Scott Wines & Estates (a real tip for food, not just wine!), HunterÕs Winesand Merlen Wines. A special treat for wine connoisseurs lucky enough to secure a ticket is the Marlborough Wine and Food Festival. It takes place on the second Saturday in February at Montana WineÕs Brancott Estate, the largest vineyard in New Zealand. Apart from the bacchanalian pleasures of food and wine, Blenheim can also offer an edifying peek into its pioneering history at the Brayshaw Museum Park . On display are some impressive traction engines, vintage tractors and a reconstructed colonial village.

Havelock From Picton the route continues west along the scenic Queen Charlotte Drive to Havelock. A nice place for a picnic on this stretch of road is at Momorangi Bay . Shortly before Havelock the Cullen Point lookout provides magnificent views over Mahau Sound to the east and the rugged Richmond Range to the west. Havelock, at the head of Pelorus Sound, is a nice enough little town and serves as a good base for boat trips or walks in the area. One of the more popular walks is the Nydia Track . The entire walk requires two

&

N e l s o n

days but it is possible to walk just the section between Nydia Bay and Shag Point in five hours. Glenmore Cruises, who also do the mail boat run (full day trip), can provide boat access to the track on Tuesdays and Fridays. Seafood gourmets might note that there are more than 200 mussel farms in Pelorus Sound and the green-lipped variety found here are a real delicacy.

Canvastown gold The road turns inland from Havelock to pass the old gold mining settlement of Canvastown . Gold was discovered here in 1860 but the real rush did not take place until four years later when larger deposits were found. Many of the prospectors erected simple canvas dwellings while they worked their claims, hence the name ÔCanvastownÕ. The rush was already over by 1865 but a few determined souls continued prospecting well into this century. Visitors who want to try their luck at gold panning can do so by inquiring at Pinedale Motorcamp (☎ (03)574 2349). It is claimed that enough gold can be sluiced in one day to pay for accommodation! The necessary equipment is provided. After Canvastown the road heads towards Pelorus Bridge Scenic Reserve, where there are some pleasant walks, and then continues to the township of Rai Valley from where a short detour can be made to the old pioneer cottage (1881) at Carluke . Now it is just a matter of climbing over the forested Rai Saddle and passing through a few more small settlements to reach the coast and Nelson. 169

M a r l b o r o u g h

Nelson Tobacco farming, orchards, forestry and fishing have all combined to make Nelson a prosperous city. Nearly surrounded by hills, Nelson enjoys an equable climate and gets more than its fair share of sunshine, as do most places in the north of the South Island. The city also has a justifiable reputation for its fine parks and an excellent beach at Tahunanui only a few kilometres away, adds to the natural attractions. Focal point of the city is the rather unattractive cathedral (1925-65), which has at least a beautiful setting atop a hill at the end of the main street. Not far away the South Street Gallery serves as a display case for the work of some of NelsonÕs leading potters. The relative seclusion of this region, coupled with a more relaxed pace of life, has proved to be a magnet for many craftspeople, but especially potters have been drawn here by the excellent local clays. Located in QueenÕs Gardens on Bridge Street the Suter Art Gallery is mainly interesting for its collection of paintings by important New Zealand artists such as Gully, Woollaston, Lindauer and Hodgkins. There is a nice restaurant here and the work of local potters can be seen in an attached craft shop. Something of NelsonÕs history can be felt by visiting Founders Park, at 87 Atawai Drive. A few of NelsonÕs old buildings have been relocated here to recreate the atmosphere of a nineteenth century village. There are some more historic buildings scattered around town with Melrose House (1876) on the corner of Brougham and 170

&

N e l s o n

Trafalger Streets being one of the most impressive.

Stoke Continuing on from Nelson to Motueka it is worth stopping at Stoke to have a look at the Nelson Provincial Museum . It is situated in the beautiful wooded expanses of Isel Park and houses a large photographic collection as well as an important collection of Maori artefacts. Nearby is historic Isel House (1848-1905), a lovely twostoried homestead set to advantage in the parkÕs spacious gardens. Equally imposing is Broad Green House at 276 Nayland Road. It was built in the mid 1850Õs and is elegantly furnished according to the fashion of the time. Another interesting stop can be made at the Craft Habitat complex , a short distance further along SH6. Concentrating on arts and crafts, visitors can buy directly from the craft workersÕ studios. Shortly after Richmond turn right towards Appleby on SH60. From here a turn-off leads to the beach on Rabbit Island. Otherwise continue along the coastal road, passing more pleasant beaches at Ruby Bay and Tasman (Kina Beach), to Motueka.

Motueka Motueka is a relaxed little town at the middle of a hops, tobacco and fruit-growing district. Apart from serving as a stepping stone to the beach and bush walks of Abel Tasman National Park, the town can be used as a base for a variety of organised outdoor activities such as

M a r l b o r o u g h

&

N e l s o n

The Walk to Asbestos Cottage

I

n autumn the afternoon sun does not penetrate the narrow valley through which the Cobb Dam Road twists, losing itself in ever deepening shadow. There is no exit for this road which, after a laborious climb to the Cobb Reservoir, can only peter out as if spent before the vastness of Kahurangi National Park. Visitors who want to venture further into this wilderness have no choice but to continue on foot. A well-defined track skirts the valleyÕs side in the direction of Asbestos or ChaffeyÕs Cottage. In summer, day-trippers take advantage of the first short section of the track which has been developed as a pleasant nature walk with signs explaining the trees and birdlife. The way leads past an abandoned asbestos mine with sulphurous green-tinged rocks. Asbestos was discovered here in 1889 at GrecianÕs Creek . This chrysolite asbestos was not high quality although it was commercially mined up until 1963. It was the asbestos and the more glamourous lure of gold which led Henry Chaffey to choose this isolated valley as an abode in 1913 and kept him here until the start of the 1950Õs. He was a prospector of course, and in between working the asbestos he spent much of his time prospecting in secluded valleys for gold, often leaving his wife alone for long periods of time. This lonely life seemed to suit, however, as they rarely ventured out of the valley except for supplies. Anne left her home only once in all their 28 years together, to go to hospital. They found solace in the chill winter evenings with the home-brew which they became addicted to. Anne nurtured a flourishing garden and blackberries and potatoes still grow by the hut. One day, while bringing provisions on foot from the outside world, Henry Chaffey collapsed and died in the winter snow. Anne reluctantly left her home for Timaru. There she died of cancer, her grip on life no doubt lessened by the unfamiliar circumstances of town living. Trampers who spend the night at the cottage can more easily envisage how it must have been to live in such isolation. How Anne must have warmed herself before the huge open fireplace on the evenings she was alone. How she must have fussed over the few visitors she received. With its rough-hewn furniture and the history that still clings to it there is more than just a touch of romance to the hut, one of the oldest in the park. 171

M a r l b o r o u g h

sea-kayaking, horse trekking and white water rafting. The road to Abel Tasman goes north via Riwaka and Kaiteriteri , where there is a magnificent beach of golden sand. From here it is not far to Marahau , another fine beach with motor camp, at the entrance to the park.

Abel Tasman National Park Named after the Dutch explorer who was the first European to discover New Zealand in 1642, Abel Tasman is one of New ZealandÕs most popular and idyllic national parks. Superb beaches, a rugged backdrop of bush clad hills and lots of sunshine draw over 30,000 people a year to the parkÕs magnificent coastal track. Apart from the Marahau entrance, the park is also accessible by road from several other points. From Takaka, in Golden Bay, a partly unsealed road leads to the Wainui and Totaranui entrances. The Coast Track can be reached by boat from Kaiteriteri or even directly from Nelson.

The Coast Track By far the most popular walk in Abel Tasman is the Coast Track. Classified as one of New ZealandÕs Great Walks it runs a distance of 31 miles (51km) between Marahau at the southern end and Wainui at the northern end. It is not even necessary to walk the track in its entirety as a water taxi service picks people up or drops them off at various points along the coast. Once on the track, hikers can lounge on 172

&

N e l s o n

magnificent beaches, cool off in the clear blue sea and no doubt spend a large amount of time scratching uncovered limbs that have been bitten by those irksome sandflies. But the sandfly is not the only problem in paradise; all this beauty and the relative ease with which the track can be walked, means crowded huts and other hikers around every corner. The solution to the accommodation problem is to bring a tent but the best way to avoid the crowds is to visit outside the peak season (November to Easter). Another way to be (more or less) alone with nature is to follow the coast by kayak. In fact kayaking around Abel Tasman is fast becoming a popular alternative to the Coast Track as it allows you to visit small off-shore islands and to come into closer contact with the parkÕs fascinating marine-life; seals, penguins and dolphins might all be seen in a dayÕs leisurely paddling.

The Inland Track The Inland Track is rather more strenuous than its coastal equivalent but also much less crowded. It canbe started from either Marahau or Wainui and would require from three to five days to complete. A detour from the track can be made to HarwoodÕs Hole, a huge vertical shaft that is over 1,214ft (370m) deep. Visitors are warned not to approach the edge of the hole as the surrounding scree is very unstable . The hole can also be reached along Canaan Road, a rough side road that branches off SH60 en route to Takaka. The Park CafŽ at the Marahau end of the Coast Track is a good place to

M a r l b o r o u g h

fill up on homemade cooking before or after doing the track. They also serve the excellent Nelson-brewed MacÕs beer. Towards the northern end of the track the Awaroa Lodge & CafŽ caters to ravenous hikers and day-trippers.

Takaka From Motueka SH60 winds up and over Takaka Hill (2,595ft/791m) to Golden Bay. The hill is also known as Marble Mountain because large quantities of marble are found beneath the softer limestone surface. As can be expected in limestone country there are plenty of caves in the area, but the Ngarua Caves on Takaka Hill belong to the most interesting and easily accessible. Cave features include beautiful stalactite and stalagmite formations, together with the skeletal remains of the giant moa. Located near a number of superb beaches Takaka is the main town in the Golden Bay region. The town itself does not have a lot in the way of attractions but there are several places of interest in the vicinity. New ZealandÕs largest freshwater springs, Pupu Springs, bubble to the

Slippery customers Three miles (5km) south of Takaka, at Bencarri Farm Park, visitors can let themselves be amazed by the spectacle of tame eels slithering out of a river to be fed!

&

N e l s o n

surface in a scenic reserve about 3 miles (5km) to the north-west of town. To the south-east is the huge Rawhiti Cave which is over a million years old. A guided tour to the cave and back takes about three hours.

Collingwood Collingwood lies 17 miles (28km) to the north-west of Takaka. A former gold rush town (gold was discovered in 1856 in the Aorere River) Collingwood is a base for guided tours to Farewell Spit and for those who plan to walk the well-known Heaphy Track . Other attractions in the area include the Te Anaroa limestone caves and isolated Wharariki Beach where there is a seal colony.

Farewell Spit Farewell Spit is a narrow tongue of land, composed entirely of sand, that curves around the north-western extremity of Golden Bay. A bird sanctuary and wetland of international importance, it provides a vital habitat for many species of migratory wading birds. Towards the end of March huge flocks of bar-tailed godwits gather here prior to departing on their annual migration to the tundras of Siberia and Alaska. Other migratory birds that can be seen on the Spit include knots, turnstones and curlews. Because of the SpitÕs protected status, free public access is restricted to small areas of beach at its base. The only way to travel its entire length is to book a tour with a licensed operator like Collingwood Safari Tours . No hobby ornithologist will want to miss their ÔGannet TourÕ, as it provides access to the 173

M a r l b o r o u g h

gannet colony (and lighthouse) at the far end of the Spit. The Collingwood Bus Service also runs a nature tour to Farewell Spit ☎ (03) 524 8188). It takes about 6 1 /2 hours and lunch is provided.

Kahurangi National Park The other way to come to grips with nature from Collingwood is to go on a walk through the unspoiled wilderness of Kahurangi National Park (formerly North-West Nelson State Forest Park). Established in 1995 and covering an area of 930,547 acres (376,572 hectares) this is not only New ZealandÕs second largest National Park, it is also its newest. Around 50 per cent of the countryÕs native plant species, over 100 bird species and a labyrinthine cave system are to be found here.

The Heaphy Track Probably the most well-known walk in the park is the Heaphy Track (6 days). The track was named after Charles Heaphy, an explorer, artist and surveyor who explored much of the region in the 1840Õs. It can be started near Collingwood and comes out on the West Coast near Karamea, a total distance of about 46 miles (75km). Transport is available to and from both ends of the track with Collingwood Safari Tours. A highlight of the Heaphy is the coastal section where exoticlooking nikau palms fringe lonely beaches. The nikau ( Rhopalostylis sapida ) is the only palm tree in the world that grows naturally at such southerly latitudes. It is found 174

&

N e l s o n

throughout the North Island and in the South Island as far south as Greymouth.

The Karamea River Track Much less travelled than the Heaphy Track, which is part of the DOCÕs Great Walks system, is the LeslieKaramea (Karamea River Track). It goes through the same forest park as the Heaphy but is longer (7 to 8 days) and, in the opinion of the authors, it is a more interesting though more difficult walk. Access to the track is along the scenic Cobb Dam Road, off SH60 near Upper Takaka. The track exits the park near Little Wanganui, a short distance south of Karamea. This la st part of the walk follows a section of the Wangapeka Track. The very energetic could return to Golden Bay along the Heaphy. For more information about the track contact the DOC office at Nelson or Takaka. From Collingwood return along SH60 to Motueka. Now take SH61 south to the junction with SH6. A side road (Upper Motueka Valley Road) branches off SH6 via Golden Downs and Kikiwa to reach St Arnaud , the gateway to Nelson Lakes National Park.

Nelson Lakes National Park On first seeing Lake Rotoiti in 1860, the explorer Julius von Haast wrote; ÒIt was with the greatest delight that I looked over this beautiful lake; its deep blue waters reflected the high rocky mountain chains on its eastern and southern shores, which, for a considerable height from the waterÕs edge (from which they rise

M a r l b o r o u g h

&

N e l s o n

Above: Sea kayaking, Abel Tasman National Park Left: Fishing boats at Picton Below: The rainforest floor is covered by a luxuriant carpet of fern and moss

175

M a r l b o r o u g h

abruptly), are clad with luxuriant primeval forest. The surface of the lake swarmed with birds, giving life to this magnificent scene .Ó Today the great flocks of native waterfowl have, sadly, disappeared from Lake Rotoiti, decimated by introduced predators such as rats, stoats and cats and, of course, by the encroachment of man. But otherwise, over a hundred years later, the scene has hardly changed. Dense stands of beech and podocarp forest still surround the shores of both Lake Rotoiti and its larger counterpart Lake Rotoroa . The ancient beech forests still resound to the song of native birds, even if a few species, like the kokako, have since disappeared. Bellbirds, native robins and the ever present fantail are commonly heard or seen along the hiking trail. Higher up in the alpine regions, New ZealandÕs mountain parrot, the kea, is a frequent sight. Chamois and red deer may also be glimpsed in the park, though because they are hunted they are very shy. Situated at the northern end of the Southern Alps, the alpine regions of Nelson Lakes are more easily accessible for trampers than in the national parks further south. Without needing special alpine skills, any tramper who is reasonably fit can enjoy the solitude and beauty of these mountains.

&

N e l s o n

Among the shorter walks that start from near park headquarters is the Peninsula Nature Walk (1 1 /2 3 hours return), the Loop Track (1 1 /2 -2 hours return) and the Rotoiti Lakehead Track (6 hours return). Detailed information on these and other walks in the vicinity is available from park headquarters. However, tramping is not the only activity in the park. In winter there is skiing at the Mt Robert and Rainbow ski fields, whereas in summer, anglers come to try their luck fishing for brown trout in the deep, clear waters of the two main lakes. Accommodation and supplies are all available in the small township of St Arnaud, which enjoys an idyllic location right next to the shores of Lake Rotoiti.

Moving on Continue west from St Arnaud first on SH63, then on SH6, which threads its way through the picturesque Buller Gorge to reach the West Coast near Westport (see Chapter 8). On the way the road passes through the settlements of Murchison and Inangahua Junction, both of which were devastated by major earthquakes in 1929 and 1968 respectively. At Lyell a walkway leads to an interesting pioneer cemetery and some historic gold mines.

The Travers-Sabine Track A popular, and very beautiful trail through the park is the TraversSabine Track. This five day trek starts near park headquarters in St Arnaud, links both main lakes via an alpine pass, and can be turned into a circular route by returning to St Arnaud from Sabine Hut at the head of Lake Rotoroa. It really is a magnificent walk and the authors can thoroughly recommend it.

176

M a r l b o r o u g h

&

N e l s o n

¥ ROUTE 9A ¥

WEST COAST VIA LEWIS PASS Instead of continuing west from Picton, this route heads south on SH1 to Kaikoura before it turns inland to reach the West Coast via Lewis Pass. Just over 18 1 /2 miles (30km) from Blenheim the road passes New ZealandÕs only solar salt works at Lake Grassmere. Sea-water is pumped into this shallow lake during the summer months where it is evaporated to obtain sea-salt. The pink colouration of some of the lakeÕs crystallizing ponds is due to a unicellular form of algae. Further south, after Wharanui, the road follows a wild, rocky coastline which is not only picturesque but also a preferred habitat for the spiny crayfish ( Jasus edwardsii ). This crustacean is similar in appearance to the lobster and the flesh of its tail is also valued as a delicacy. Just before Kaikoura it is sometimes possible to buy freshly caught crayfish from wayside stands.

Kaikoura Kaikoura has a lovely setting on a small peninsula with breathtaking views of the Seaward Kaikoura Range. The view of the mountains, which rise abruptly from the sea to heights of well over 6,561ft (2,000m), is especially beautiful in winter when snow caps the peaks. This dramatic tableau would have been enough in itself to justify a stop, but it is the chance to go whale-watching that now brings the tourists in their thousands. There are also a few things to do

in Kaikoura that do not involve spending money. A nice excursion is the drive along the peninsula to Point Kean , where there is a large fur seal colony. Keen nature photographers might like to follow the walkway along the seashore which starts from the carpark. Apart from close-up views of fur seals, it is also possible to see large colonies of red-billed gulls and many other seashore birds. Note that this coastal walk is only possible at low tide though. An alternative is to take the cliff-top route which allows spectacular views over the coast. A pamphlet describing various walks on the peninsula is available from the Information Centre.

Moving on From Kaikoura SH1 goes directly south to Christchurch at the end of Route 14, but those who want to continue on to Hanmer Springs and the West Coast have a couple of possibilities open to them. The easiest road to drive is SH1 down to Waipara . From here SH7 can be followed over the Lewis Pass (2,831ft/863m) to the West Coast with a short detour to Hanmer Springs on the way. The more direct route to Hanmer Springs is along SH70 which can be joined just south of Kaikoura. Though the fact that a long stretch of this road is unsealed and therefore rather slow to drive, the wonderful scenery along the way is adequate recompense. 177

M a r l b o r o u g h

Whale Watch

&

N e l s o n

K

aikoura is one of the few places in the world where sperm whales come in so close to shore. The deep waters directly off the Kaikoura coast offer an abundant supply of food, not only for whales but also other large marine animals such as dolphins (including HectorÕs dolphin which is the worldÕs rarest) and seals. Visitors have a chance of seeing all these animals if they venture out in the small boats that are operated by Whale Watch Kaikoura. But the greatest thrill is when the tiny craft approach to within 984ft (300m) of the giant sperm whales. Up to 65ft (20m) long and reaching a weight of 70 tons these behemoths of the ocean are the largest of all toothed whales. Nature lovers should on no account miss this opportunity to see at close quarters the creature immortalised in MelvilleÕs novel Moby Dick. Apart from sperm whales it is also possible to see killer whales (in actual fact the largest member of the dolphin family) as well as pilot, minke and humpback whales. Because the whale watching tours only take place in good weather conditions visitors should be prepared to stay a few extra days if they want to be certain of seeing the whales. Many visitors stay longer anyway in order to go on one of the organised excursions that allow them to swim with the dolphins or seals. In winter Sea-to-Summit Safaris (☎ 319 6182 or contact Information Centre) take groups up to the recently opened Mt Lyford ski field.

Left: The mighty tail flukes of a diving sperm whale

Right: Whale Watch Kaikoura’s modern fleet of boats enable passengers to view the denizens of the deep at close quarters

178

M a r l b o r o u g h

Hanmer Springs With their beautiful alpine setting, the outdoor hot pools at Hanmer Springs are a glorious place to rest and soothe aching limbs. Open throughout the year, the mineral waters range in temperature from 70-100¼F (36-40¼C). Visitors can choose between large pools in a landscaped setting or small private pools with their own shower and change facilities. Conveniently located within the thermal reserve is a restaurant serving snacks and light meals. Several walks go through the surrounding forest which comprises both native and exotic trees. Particularly worthwhile is the Mt Isobel Track (5 hours) as it goes through an area with interesting sub-alpine flora. Another good walk, the Forest Walk (1 hour), leads through stands of conifers and deciduous trees; it would be particularly attractive in autumn. Other outdoor activities around Hanmer Springs include horse treks, golf, bungy-jumping, jet-boating and skiing at the nearby Amuri ski field. A bit further afield there is good walking through alpine scenery at the top of Lewis Pass (contact Information Centre at Hanmer Springs for track information), while the hot pools at nearby Maruia Springs provide a place to relax afterwards.

&

N e l s o n

is only open to the public between January 1 and February 13 and links Hanmer Springs to Blenheim. With a spread of 444,798 acres (180,000 hectares), Molesworth is New ZealandÕs largest high country cattle station. The scenery is quite magnificent and well worth the small fee payable for using the road. Those who do not want to take their own vehicles along this unsurfaced road can join one of the safari tours starting from either Hanmer Springs or Blenheim.

Touring Note Visitors who have continued south to Christchurch can still join Route 10 on the West Coast by crossing the Southern Alps via ArthurÕs Pass to Greymouth or Hokitika. From Christchurch the start of Route 11 at Wanaka is joined by following state highways 72, 79 and 8 south via Mount Hutt, Tekapo and Omarama see also Route 14.

Molesworth For those who want to return north the road through the remote tussocklands of Molesworth Station provides a spectacular alternative to the coastal route. This private road 179

A

Marlborough & Nelson

ACTIVITIES Abel Tasman National Park

Collingwood

Tramping

Farewell Spit Bird Sanctuary Collingwood Safari Tours Ltd Tasman Street, Collingwood, Golden Bay ☎ (03) 524 8257 Offer the ÔOriginal Farewell Spit Safari TourÕ. Departures are daily on demand and the tour takes 5 hours. The slightly longer tour to the gannet colony takes place twice a week.

For up-to-the-minute timetables and information as to the various transport possibilities, please contact the Information Centres in either Motueka or Nelson. By Bus/Minibus: Skyline Connections, Wallace St, Motueka depart from Nelson and Motueka for Marahau daily (entrance to park). Also depart Takaka for Wainui/Totaranui (northern entrances to park) ☎ (03) 528 8850. Abel Tasman National Park Enterprises, Old Cederman House, Main Road, Riwaka have a daily bus service to both ends of the park. Departs from Nelson, Motueka & Takaka ☎ (03) 528 7801. Bayways Book-a-Bus Takaka also operate on demand to Abel Tasman ☎ (03) 525 9864. By Boat: Abel Tasman Seafaris (☎ (03) 527 8083) depart Marahau and drop hikers off, or pick them up, at various points in the park. Also day cruises. Abel Tasman National Park Enterprises (see above) depart Kaiteriteri. Offer similar service to Seafaris. Also day cruises.

Spirit of Golden Bay (a catamaran) provides a daily ferry service from Tarakohe Harbour (near Takaka) to various points around coast of Abel Tasman and on to Nelson ☎ (03) 525 9135. 180

Nature Tours

Collingwood Bus Service c/o Post Office ☎ (03) 524 8188 Their ÔFarewell Spit Nature ToursÕ run daily for groups of 5 or more people. Bookings essential. Apart from this they also operate a 5 hour ÔMail Run TourÕ which is also good value.

Hanmer Springs White Water Rafting Rainbow Adventures JackÕs Pass Road ☎ (03) 315 7444

Havelock Boat Trips Pelorus Mail Run Glenmore Cruises ☎ (03) 574 2276 Departs: Havelock Tues, Wed, Thurs at 9.30am. Returns Tues 5.30pm, Wed 6.30pm & Fri 5pm. The boat follows a different route on each of these days. Free tea & coffee. Bring your lunch. In summer booking is essential.

A Sea Kayaking

Seal Swimming

Te Hoiere Sea Kayaks PO Box 33 ☎ (03) 574 2610 Rentals & Trips

Dive & Sports Centre Yarmouth Street ☎ (03) 319 6444 Apart from swims with seals also various diving trips.

Kahurangi National Park Tramping Heaphy Track: Collingwood Safari Tours have an on demand service from Collingwood to Heaphy Track and/or return. They can also arrange air transport ☎ (03) 524 8257 Heaphy & Cobb Tracks: Bayways Book-a-Bus (see Abel Tasman National Park above) also provide transport to Heaphy and Cobb (Leslie-Karamea) tracks.

Kaikoura Dolphin Swimming All the necessary equipment for the following trips to the dolphins and seals is provided by the operators. Dolphin Mary Charters Booking office in the middle of town ☎ (03) 319 6777 The best time to visit the dolphins is the early morning. The trip takes about 3 hours. Kaikoura Wildlife Centre Whaleway Station Road ☎ (03) 319 6622 Offer swimming trips with dolphins and fur seals.

GraemeÕs Seal Swim Book at Visitor Centre ☎ (03) 319 5641 This swim with the seals has been recommended.

Whale Watching Whale Watch Kaikoura Ltd The Whaleway Station Freephone 0800 655 121 or ☎ (03) 319 6767 Season: up to 4 sailings daily, throughout the year. Bookings are essential and should be made at least 3-4 days in advance. In the course of the 3 hour trip you may see sperm whales, orcas, dolphins and seals. A number of operators offer whale watching from the air; Kaikoura Helicopters ☎ (03) 319 6609, Whale Watch Air Ltd Freephone 0800 655 121 or (03) 319 6580 and Air Tours Kaikoura ☎ (03) 319 5986. The flights last about half an hour.

Motueka Sea Kayaking Abel Tasman Kayaks Marahau ☎ (03) 527 8022 Rentals & trips Ocean River Main Road Marahau ☎ (03) 527 8266 Rentals & trips. Bookings essential. 181

A

Above: Traver’s Saddle, Nelson Lakes National Park

Left: A pioneer cottage near Blenheim Below: Inter-Island ferry, Marlborough Sounds

182

Marlborough & Nelson

A

White Water Rafting Ultimate Descents PO Box 208 ☎ (03) 528 6363 Offer trips on Buller, Karamea, Motueka & other rivers.

Murchison White Water Rafting Go West Rafting Chalgrave Street ☎ (03) 523 9315 On Lower Buller River.

Nelson Lakes National Park Tramping Timetables for the following services are subject to frequent change, so always ring beforehand or check with the relevant Visitor Information Centre.

Nelson Lakes Transport has a regular passenger service from Nelson to the park. Departs Mon-Sat. Departure point is Nelson Visitor Information Centre. Bookings essential ☎ (03) 548 6858. Nelson Lakes Shuttles operate between St Arnaud, Blenheim & Picton. Departs Mon, Wed & Fri. Bookings essential ☎ (03) 521 1887.

Picton Boat Trips The Magic Mail Run Beachcomber Fun Cruises 8 London Quay ☎ (03) 573 6175 Departs: Picton, town wharf Mon, Tues, Thurs & Fri at 11.15am. Returns mid/late afternoon. Free tea & coffee, bring your own lunch. Bookings essential. Cougar Line The Waterfront ☎ (03) 573 7925 Offer three cruises in Queen Charlotte Sound. Departs: Picton, town wharf daily at 8.15am for ÔDay TripperÕ (drops walkers off at Ship Cove, start of Queen Charlotte Walkway); 11.15am for ÔLuncheon CruiseÕ (41/2 hrs); 2.15pm for ÔShort CruiseÕ (3 hrs).

Swing bridges allow safe river crossings on most national park tracks

183

A Scenic Flights Float Air Picton ☎ (03) 573 6433 Do scenic flights with their floatplanes as well as providing a transport link to the various farms and lodges on the Sounds. They also have a service to and from Wellington, landing at

Marlborough & Nelson Porirua Harbour. This would be a very interesting alternative to the ferry trip.

Sea Kayaking Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company 1 Russell St ☎ (03) 573 6078 Kayak rentals & trips.

ACCOMMODATION See pages 288 and 300 in the FactFile for the accommodation and restaurant rating guide

Hanmer Springs Amuri Backpackers $ 41 Conical Hill Road ☎ (03) 315 7196 Central location. Mountain View Holiday Park $ Main Road ☎/Fax (03) 315 7113 Tent sites, cabins, tourist flats. Hanmer Lodge Hotel $$ ☎ (03) 315 7021 Fax (03) 315 7071 Opened in 1932, this place has character.

Kaikoura Top Spot Backpackers $ 22 Deal Street ☎ (03) 319 5540 Non-smoking, good views, central. Fyffe Gallery and Restaurant $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 33/4 miles (6km) south of Kaikoura ☎/Fax (03) 319 6869 Lovely garden and good restaurant.

184

Norfolk Pine Motor Inn $$ 124 The Esplanade ☎ (03) 319 5120 Fax (03) 319 6405

Marlborough Sounds For a comprehensive list of places to stay on the Queen Charlotte Walkway and elsewhere on the Sounds (including details on transportation possibilities) contact the Tourist Information Centre, Picton. A number of cheap hostels may be booked through The Villa (see Picton below). Many of the hostels and lodges can be reached by water taxi or with Cougar Line and M.V. Beachcomber from Picton. Float Air Picton ☎ (03) 573 6433 operates floatplanes to any destination in the Sounds. Hopewell $ Kenepuru Sound ☎ (03) 573 4341 Located in a remote part of Kenepuru Sound. Access by boat from Portage or floatplane from Picton.

A Furneaux Lodge $/$$ Queen Charlotte Sound ☎/Fax (03) 579 8259 At this century-old house you can stay either in a private (self-contained) chalet, or bunkroom with communal kitchen. Activities include tennis, diving and kayaking. Access by boat from Picton. St. Omer House $$/$$$ Kenepuru Sound ☎/Fax (03) 573 4086 Tent sites, cabins and cottages. Access by road or boat. Craglee $$$ Queen Charlotte Sound ☎ (03) 579 9223 Beautifully situated. All meals provided. Access by floatplane or water taxi.

Motueka Twin Oaks Cottage $ (Backpackers) 25 Parker Street ☎ (03) 528 7882 Small cottage set in a nice garden. Closed June to August. Equestrian Lodge Motel $$ Tudor Street ☎ (03) 528 9369 Fax (03) 528 6369 Swimming pool, quiet surroundings.

Nelson Centre of NZ Hostel $ 193 Milton Street ☎/Fax (03) 546 6667 Located in a historic mansion, built 1881.

Tasman Towers $ (Backpackers) 10 Weka Street ☎ (03) 548 7950 Fax (03) 548 7897 Spacious and clean.

Aloha Lodge $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 19 Beach Road Tahunanui ☎ (03) 546 4000 Fax (03) 546 4420 California House Inn $$$ (Bed & Breakfast) 29 Collingwood Street ☎/Fax (03) 548 4173 Lovely old house, pretty garden, generous breakfast.

Picton BadenÕs Picton Lodge $ (Backpackers) 3 Auckland Street ☎ (03) 573 7788 Fax (03) 573 8418 Close to ferry, good views over Harbour. Marineland Guest House $ (Bed & Breakfast) 28 Waikawa Road ☎ (03) 573 6429 Fax (03) 573 7634 Swimming pool, friendly staff. The Villa $ (Backpackers) 34 Auckland Street ☎/Fax (03) 573 6598 Popular place, good facilities. Americano Motor Inn $$ 32 High Street ☎ (03) 573 6398 Fax (03) 573 7892 Spa pool.

185

A

Marlborough & Nelson

St Arnaud

Takaka/Golden Bay

The Yellow House $ (Backpackers) ☎/Fax (03) 521 1887 Spa pool, close to shop.

Golden Bay Holiday Park $ Tukurua Beach ☎ (03) 525 9742 Tent sites and cabins, directly on beach.

Alpine Lodge $$ ☎ (03) 521 1869 Fax (03) 521 1868 The attached Alpine Chalet offers cheaper rooms. Tophouse $$ Shortly before St Arnaud (signposted) ☎ (03) 521 1848 Unique cob cottage built in the 1880Õs.

Shady Rest Hostel $ 141 Commercial Street Takaka ☎ None Nice old building, friendly atmosphere. Tukurua Beachfront Lodge $$ (Bed & Breakfast) On SH60 Tukurua Beach ☎/Fax (03) 525 8644 Lovely garden, swimming pool, private beach.

EATING OUT Kaikoura Act One $ (BYO/Licensed) Main Highway ☎ (03) 319 6760 Good coffee, nachos, pizzas. Why Not CafŽ $ Westend ☎ (03) 319 6486 Good for a snack and a coffee. White Morph $$ (BYO/Licensed) 94 The Esplanade ☎ (03) 319 5676 Good seafood meals.

Motueka The Park CafŽ $ Marahau At entrance to National Park ☎ (03) 527 8270 Tasty home-made cakes. 186

Gothic Gourmet Restaurant $$ (BYO/Licensed) 208 High Street ☎ (03) 528 6699 Situated in an old church, worth a visit.

Nelson Land Of Pharoahs $ (BYO) 270 Hardy Street ☎ (03) 548 8404 Egyptian food, Egyptian chef. ValenoÕs $ 35 Bridge Street ☎ (03) 547 6724 Broccoli Row $$ (BYO) 5 Buxton Square ☎ (03) 548 9621 Vegetarian and seafood, popular.

A Picton The Federal Hotel $ 12 London Quay ☎ (03) 573 6077 Nothing fancy but okay.

Marlborough Terranean $$$ 31 High Street ☎ (03) 573 7122 Stylish interior, good seafood.

NeptuneÕs Seafood Restaurant $$ Waikawa Marina Waikawa Bay ☎ (03) 573 7060 Good views, great seafood.

PLACES TO VISIT Collingwood Te Anaroa Caves Rockville (near Collingwood) Open: guided tours daily during summer (Dec 27 to Jan 23); 10.30am, 12.30pm, 2.30pm & 4.30pm. Jan 24 to Dec 24 by appointment ☎ (03) 524 8131.

Blenheim Brayshaw Museum Park New Renwick Road Open: During daylight hours. Admission is free.

Carluke Pioneer Cottage (Near Rai Valley township) Open: Daylight hours. No admission charge.

Hanmer Springs Molesworth Station Open: for private vehicles between Jan 1 & Feb 13. Tours: Alpine Adventures, Molesworth Station Safaris (☎ (03) 315 7323), Hanmer Springs and Back Country

Safaris (☎ (03) 578 9904), Blenheim. Tours vary in length from half a day to 2 days. Both operators supply lunch & refreshments. For more information contact the tourist offices in either Blenheim or Hanmer Springs. Thermal Reserve (hot pools) Open: daily 10am-8pm.

Kaikoura Maori Leap Cave (A large stalactite cave) 2 miles (3km) south of Kaikoura Open: Guided tours (45 mins) at 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30pm, 1.45pm, 2.30pm and 3.30pm.

Lake Grassmere Dominion Salt Ltd Salt Works Open: Guided tours Tues 1.30pm & Fri 1.30pm.

Nelson Founders Park Atawhai Drive Open: daily 10am-4.30pm.

187

A South Street Gallery 10 Nile Street Open: Mon-Fri 10am-5pm, weekends & public holidays 10am-4pm. Suter Art Gallery In Queens Gardens,Bridge Street Open: daily 10.30am-4.30pm.

Picton Edwin Fox Centre Next to Ferry Terminal Complex Open: daily 8.45am-5pm.

Marlborough & Nelson Craft Habitat SH6 (shortly after Stoke) Open: daily. Isel House Isel Park Open: During summer, weekends 2-4pm. Nelson Provincial Museum In Isel Park, off Hilliard St Open: Tues-Fri 10am-4pm, weekends 2-5pm.

Takaka

Smith Memorial Museum London Quay Open: daily 10am-4pm.

Bencarri Farm Park McCallumÕs Rd, Anatoki Valley Open: daily 11am-4pm during summer.

Stoke

Rawhiti Cave Open: For a guided walk to this isolated cave contact Jane Baird ☎ (03) 525 9061.

Broadgreen House 276 Nayland Road Open: 1 Nov-30 Apr. Tues-Fri 10-30am-4.30pm, weekends 1.30-4.30pm. 1 May-31 Oct Wed, Sat, Sun 2-4.30pm.

Takaka Hill Ngarua Caves (20km from Motueka) Open: daily Aug-mid June. Guided tours from 10am. Last tour 4pm.

REGIONAL TRANSPORT Air

Bus

Picton to Wellington

Collingwood to Nelson

Soundsair ☎ (03) 573 6184 or (04) 388 2594 in Wellington. Offer a regular service to Wellington. See also Activities, Picton.

Collingwood Bus Services Tasman Street, Collingwood ☎ (03) 524 8188. Bus stops in Takaka en route to Nelson

Nelson to Nelson Lakes National Park Nelson Lakes Transport Nelson ☎ (03) 548 6858

188

A VISITOR INFORMATION & PARK VISITOR CENTRES Abel Tasman National Park

Motueka

DOC Office, Cnr High & Edward Sts, Moutueka ☎ (03) 528 9117 Information on Abel Tasman N.P. can also be obtained from the DOC offices and Visitor Centres in Nelson and Takaka. The National Park Visitors Centre at Totaranui is open from late November to February.

236 High Street Open: daily during summer Mon-Fri 8.30am-7pm, weekends 9.30am-7pm. ☎ (03) 528 6543 Fax (03) 528 6563

Blenheim The Forum Building, Queen Street ☎ (03) 578 9904 Fax (03) 578 6084

Hanmer Springs Hurunui Visitor Information Cnr Amuri Avenue & JackÕs Pass Rd PO Box 6 ☎ (03) 315 7128

Kahurangi National Park DOC Takaka Field Centre 1 Commercial Street ☎ (03) 525 8026 Information is also available from DOC offices in Motueka, Karamea and Nelson.

Nelson Cnr Trafalgar & Halifax Street, PO Box 194 Open: daily 7.30am-6pm. ☎ (03) 548 2304 Fax (03) 546 9008

Nelson Lakes National Park Visitor Centre View Road, St Arnaud ☎ (03) 523 1806

Picton Picton Information Centre, Auckland Street, PO Box 332 Open: daily 8.30am-8pm (summer). ☎ (03) 573 8838 Fax (03) 573 8362 Picton Information Services Picton Ferry Terminal Building PO Box 309 ☎ (03) 573 6855

Kaikoura

Takaka

The Esplanade, PO Box 6 Open: daily 8am-7pm (summer). ☎ (03) 319 5641 Fax (03) 319 6819

Golden Bay Information Centre Commercial Street ☎ (03) 525 9136

189

Dorothy Falls, Hokitika

Oparara Basin

THE Karamea WEST Little Wanganui 67 COAST (WESTLAND) Westport

Bu ll

Cape Foulwind

er

e Ri v

r

6

Reefton Charleston 69 Mitchell's Gully Goldmine Paparoa Reeftown National Pancake Rocks 7 Park Punakaiki 6

Barrytown Greymouth

7

Shanty Town Lake Brunner

Hokitika Lake Kaniere

Ross

Arthur's Pass

Lake Ianthe

0

30

6

60miles

Okarito Lagoon

Whataroa

Okarito

0

30

Westland National Park

60kms

Lake Matheson

Tasman Sea Lake Moeraki

Franz Josef

Mount Cook National Park

Fox Glacier

6

Lake Paringa

Lake Tekapo

Lake Pukaki

Lake Moeraki

Lake Tekapo

Haast

Fairlie Lake Ohau

Lake Wanaka

Fiordland National Park

190

Wanaka

1

Mount Cook

Lake Paringa

Mount Aspiring National Park

Makarora 6

Arthur's Pass National Park

73

Lake Hawea

Lake Hawea 8

79

8

Twizel

Timaru 1

8

Omarama 83

82 83

Oamaru

South Pacific Ocean

THE WEST COAST (WESTLAND) The West Coast is a thinly-populated sliver of land bounded on one side by the pounding waves of the Tasman Sea and on the other by the rainforest-clad slopes of the Southern Alps. Gold once brought a measure of prosperity to this wild, isolated coast and a touch of the old gold rush days can still be felt at Shantytown, near Greymouth and MitchellÕs Gully Gold Mine. Other attractions include Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers, the sea-sculpted rocks at Punakaiki (Paparoa National Park) and Westland National Park. A useful booklet to pick up from one of the local tourist offices is The Great West Coast Drive . It is packed with tips on what to see and do.

¥ ROUTE 10 ¥ THE WEST COAST HIGHWAY Westport Established in 1861 after the discovery of gold in the Buller Gorge , Westport was the first European

settlement on the West Coast. It is therefore perhaps appropriate that this journey begins here, even though the town is bypassed by SH6 from Nelson, as well as all those

Above: A typical West Coast landscape

191

The West Coast (Westland)

tourists in a hurry to get down to the glaciers further south. Once the gold rush was over, coal mining became the townÕs dominant industry. Though less glamorous, this black gold proved more dependable than its yellow counterpart and even today it ensures the town a measure of prosperity. A good insight into WestportÕs coal mining history can be gained by visiting ÔCoaltown Õ, an excellent little coal museum with a simulated coal mine and audio-visuals to help bring the past alive. In recent years Westport has become increasingly well-known for its adventure tourism, which i s no doubt at least partly the reason for the fresh paint on some pubs and a new-found interest in preserving the townÕs quaint old shop verandahs. Apart from white water rafting through the Buller Gorge it is possible to go ÔunderworldÕ rafting through fabulous glow-worm caverns and to abseil down sheer rock faces. The subterranean world can also be explored as part of a guided caving tour; one such tour is called simply Te Tahi , ÔThe OneÕ, and involves descending 100ft (30m) down a vertical hole. The tour operators claim you will experience ÔrebirthÕ on this one Ñ perhaps, but what most people will want to experience is a stiff drink beforehand. It is worth mentioning, however, that there are easier ways to enter the many cave systems in the area. Less strenuous than an adventure tour is a visit to one of WestportÕs other main attractions Ñ the seal colony at Tauranga Bay , only 7 1 /2 miles (12km) away. Observation platforms atop the bluff behind the colony, allow good views of the seals 192

below. A nice walk along the coast, which starts here, is the Cape Foulwind Walkway (1 1 /2 hours). The road to Karamea follows the coast for much of its way, though at Mokihinui it weaves inland through a beautiful area of native forest, before touching the coast again at Little Wanganui . Close to Little Wanganui is the start of the Wangapeka Track (5 days).

Around Karamea Karamea marks the end of SH67. The only way to get further north is to walk the Heaphy Track to Golden Bay. Even for those who do not want to walk the entire track, the beautiful coastal stretch of this walk to Heaphy Hut (5 hours) is well worth the effort. In any case, there are plenty of excellent day walks in the area such as the Fenian, Mt Stormy and Karamea Gorge tracks. The Karamea Information & Resource Centre has more information on these and other walks. A must when in the area is a visit to the Oparara Basin , a 7 1 /2 mile (12km) drive from the North Beach turn-off, north of Karamea. The main attractions here are the Honeycomb Caves and some spectacular limestone arches set in truly magnificent rainforest. It is possible to walk to the Oparara Arch and Little Arch, but the caves can only be visited on a guided tour. This tour is worth the money however, as the caves serve as a repository for a remarkable collection of bones belonging to birds that have long since become extinct in this country. They include seven species of moa, a giant flightless goose and the giant New Zealand

The West Coast (Westland)

eagle ( Harpagornis ). Often referred to as HaastÕs eagle, after the man who first described it, this immense bird of prey had claws the size of a tigerÕs and a wing-span over 9 foot (up to 3m).

Carnivorous snails Somewhat more modest in size, but still to be found in the surrounding bush, are snails of the genus powelliphanta. They are carnivorous, just under 3 inches (70mm) long and belong to a very ancient and primitive family of snails that is also present in Africa and Melanesia (division of of Oceania in the south-west Pacific Ocean. Powelliphanta and paryphanta snails (another genus of carnivorous land snails found in New Zealand) feed on earthworms and lay eggs similar to those laid by birds. All these snails are protected and should not be disturbed!

The road from Westport to Punakaiki and Greymouth is undoubtedly one of the loveliest coastal drives in New Zealand. Undisputed highlights of the drive are the Pancake Rocks and lush rainforests of Paparoa National Park but a visit to MitchellÕs Gully Gold Mine , near Charleston, is also worthwhile as it provides an interesting glimpse into the CoastÕs lively goldmining past. Good views over the rugged coastal scenery can be had from Irimahuwhero Point .

Paparoa National Park Punakaiki is the gateway to the national park and is situated right next to the famous Pancake Rocks. Wind and waves have sculpted these stratified limestone rocks into a surreal landscape of bizarre columns and ridges that rise impressively above the coast. At high tide blowholes become active at those points where the sea has undermined the rocks and is squeezed up through narrow fissures to produce a spectacular spray of water. The rocks can be reached along a track that starts just opposite the Visitor Centre. Weird limestone formations do not stop at the coast however, as the interior of the park is also a magnificent karst landscape of narrow rugged gorges, cliffs and cave systems. All these geological features are cloaked in a primeval rainforest, alive with native birds, that is just waiting to be explored on one of the parkÕs well defined trails or perhaps on a canoe trip up the Pororari Gorge. In summer, when the rata trees are flowering red, the lowland forests are especially beautiful. Apart from walking, the park and environs can also be explored by canoe, bicycle or on horseback. Kiwa Sea Adventures offer trips along the coast to see dolphins, fur seals and spotted shags. A real treat for bird-watchers is a visit to the worldÕs only breeding colony of Westland black petrels ( Procellaria westlandica ). The best time to observe the birds is between June and October, but note that the colony can only be visited on a guided tour 193

The West Coast (Westland)

Walks in Paparoa Park Among the parkÕs shorter walks are theTruman Track (30 minutes round trip) and Pororari River Track (3 hours). Both are located a few miles north of the Punakaiki Visitor Centre and serve as excellent introductions to the parkÕs unique subtropical vegetation. Tree-ferns, nikau palms, yellow-flowering kowhai trees and native forest giants such as rimu, matai and kahikatea, are features of these tracks. An additional attraction of the Truman Track is the spectacular section of coastline where it ends. Longer walks include the Inland Pack Track (2-3 days) and Croesus Track (2-3 days), although the latter is not actually within the parkÕs boundaries. As flooding can make some of the inland tracks impassable, it is important to check at the Visitors Centre before setting out. Detailed information about all the tracks mentioned here, and others as well, can be obtained from the Centre.

with Paparoa Nature Tours . They also organise other bird-watching trips within the park.

Moving on From Punakaiki the road continues south through Barrytown , near the start of the Croesus Track , and a couple of other small settlements before reaching Greymouth on the Grey River. For those who wish to spend the night along this wild and romantic stretch of coast, there is accommodation at Barrytown, at SandieÕs Vegetarian Bed & Breakfast ☎ (03) 731 1889) a bit further south, and of course at Punakaiki itself.

Greymouth Greymouth is the largest town on the West Coast and with a wide range of accommodation it serves as a good base for outdoor activities in 194

the area. Visitors can try their luck at gold-panning, go on a rafting adventure or join one of the scenic tours to old goldmining sites. There is plenty of good walking in the area and excellent trout fishing in the local rivers as well as at Lake Brunner further inland. In spring people can be seen netting whitebait at the mouth of the Grey River. Whitebait are tiny fish (actually the young of the Galaxiidae family of fish) that are considered a real delicacy, not only on the Coast but all over New Zealand. They are usually cooked in batter and well worth trying if one has the chance.

Attractions An interesting feature of town is the so-called Ô Great Wall of Greymouth Õ. This stone barrier was erected in recent years to protect the town from the sometimes

The West Coast (Westland)

The Kea

(Nestor notabilis)

T

o some a villain, to some a clown, the kea is the worldÕs only alpine parrot and is only found in the high country and mountains of the South Island.

Its diet consists mainly of insects and berries, but it will eat carrion when the chance arises. There have been cases where the kea has actually attacked live sheep and with its powerful curved beak and strong claws it is well equipped for the purpose. However, this only happens very rarely and, though the kea was once shot due to exaggerated reports of such behaviour, it is now fully protected. Most visitors to New Zealand are unaware of the keaÕs reputation as a killer among local farmers and tend to see this parrot in a completely different light: as the mischievous feathered clown of the mountains. Keas like sliding down the tin roofs of mountain huts (preferably in the early hours of the morning) and would not think twice about flying off with your watch or any other shiny object that you might leave lying about. Their natural curiosity and lack of natural enemies makes them quite unafraid of people and it is not difficult to get close to the birds. Unfortunately, the keaÕs curiosity is developing into a bit of a problem in those areas where it has been fed by visitors who have been charmed by its antics. More and more notices are appearing at places like Mount Cook National Park advising people Ônot to feed the keasÕ. Feeding keas attracts them to areas of human habitation and when they are not actually eating, the keas burn off their excess energy by ripping apart anything that their beaks can get hold of. This might be the rubber sealing on the windscreen of your car, your backpack or your expensive walking boots. But more serious than the damage done to human property is the change in the keaÕs natural behaviour that feeding brings about. The keaÕs normal food has a much lower energy value than human food and a sandwich for the kea is like having breakfast, lunch and dinner all at once! Not that the conservation authorities are worried about lots of obese keas becoming yet another of New ZealandÕs flightless birds. What really worries them is that the kea will stop foraging for its natural foods and become dependant on human leftovers. On top of all this, it is probable that human food is bad for the kea and that a kea that scavenges for scraps is living about as healthily as an adolescent on junk food. In other words: please donÕt feed the keas!

195

The West Coast (Westland)

catastrophic flooding of the Grey River. But probably the biggest single attraction in the vicinity of Greymouth is Shantytown , 5 miles (8km) further south. This replica of a typical West Coast gold mining town gives a good feeling for pioneering life at the turn of last century. It almost goes without saying that you can pan for gold here (they even guarantee that you will find some!) and a short ride on the quaint old steam train through native bush is also great fun. For those who want to cross the Southern Alps to Christchurch there is a daily rail link from Greymouth with the TranzAlpine Express . There is also a bus link via ArthurÕs Pass (see Chapter 11) but in either case the trip over the Alps is quite spectacular. Otherwise this route along the coast continues to Hokitika.

Hokitika In the 1860Õs, during the heady days of the West Coast gold rushes, Hokitika was known as the ÔCapital of the GoldfieldsÕ. The best place for visitors to inform themselves about the townÕs gold mining past is at the West Coast Historical Museum . It features a large collection of gold mining equipment, historic photos and scale models of the various methods used to extract gold. A leaflet is available here (also at the information office) which describes a walk to places of historic interest such as the old wharf along Gibson Quay and the Custom House. Like Greymouth, the town is also a good base for outdoor activities such as white water rafting and 196

Jade Although some gold is still being mined in the Hokitika area, the town is now better known for the processing of greenstone (jade) or pounamu as the Maori call it. A major source of local greenstone is the Arahura River which enters the sea 5 miles (8km) north of town. Greenstone jewelry and sculptures can be bought at a number of shops in town and it is also possible to see it being cut and polished at Westland Greenstone on Tancred Street. In the same street The Gold Shop specialises in jewelry made from locally mined gold.

kayaking. However, a nice lazy way to enjoy the local scenery is to take a paddle boat cruise along Mahinapua Creek to Lake Mahinapua . To get to the place where the paddle boat departs, take the Ruatapu Road a short distance south of Hokitika. If, however, a bit of exercise is called for, then one of the best walking areas in the vicinity is around the shores of picturesque Lake Kaniere, only some 11 miles (18kms) east of town.

Moving on Continuing south from Hokitika the main road passes through Ross, yet another of those West Coast towns that can trace its history back to the goldrush days. It was near here that the largest gold nugget ever to be

The West Coast (Westland)

found in New Zealand was dug out in 1907. Two walkways, the Water Race Walk (1 hour) and Jones Flat Walk (1 1 /2 hours), lead through historic goldfields close to town. Though the road winds inland after Ross the scenery loses nothing of its attractiveness and becomes, if anything, even more dramatic. On the northern shore of bush-clad Lake Ianthe a lovely picnic spot, with toilets provided, invites a break from driving. From here it is not much further to Whataroa and New ZealandÕs only breeding colony of white herons.

White Herons of Whataroa Just as Kaikoura owes its popularity (and economic recovery) to the marine mammals in its coastal waters, so does Whataroa have reason to be grateful to the colony of white herons (the Maori name is kotuku ) that enjoy refuge in a sanctuary on the banks of the Waitangitoana River. White Heron Sanctuary Tours conduct jet-boat tours to the colony during the November to February nesting season. One can also see a nesting colony of royal spoonbills ( Platalea regia ) here.

Okarito Lagoon Another worthwhile excursion for bird-watchers and for anybody who loves beautiful natural scenery, is a kayak trip on Okarito Lagoon. Okarito Nature Tours operate guided boat tours, but it is also possible to just rent a kayak and paddle off on your own. The turn-off to Okarito settlement is at The Forks, another 9

miles (15km) south of Whataroa. It was near Okarito, incidentally, that the Dutch explorer Abel Tasman first set eyes on New Zealand in 1642. A monument next to the Youth Hostel marks the event. From The Forks turn-off it is no longer far, past the trout-rich waters of Lake Mapourika, to Franz Josef Village and the glaciers of Westland National Park.

Westland National Park The glacial landscapes of this national park are so unique it has earned the title of Ô World Heritage ParkÕ from UNESCO. Together with Mount Aspiring, Mount Cook and Fiordland National Parks it forms part of the South-West New Zealand World Heritage Area. Nowhere else in the world do glaciers descend from alpine heights to end just short of luxuriant coastal rainforests. What is more, and contrary to world wide trends, the glaciers are advancing. At the moment they are roughly 9 miles (12km) from the sea, with Franz Josef Glacier moving forward at a rate of some 11 1 /2 inches (30cm) a day. How long this period of advance will continue is hard to say. Generally, the last century has shown a pattern of steady retreat; in the distant past the glaciers once reached right down to the sea and even in the 1930Õs the terminal face was much closer to the coast than it is now.

The Glaciers Before setting out to explore Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers it is a very good idea to inform oneself about 197

The West Coast (Westland)

Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki

198

The West Coast (Westland)

The Sandfly: Scourge of the West Coast!

T

he adult sandfly measures only about 0.1 of an inch (2.5mm) long and has a hunch-back appearance. Various species of sandfly are found in many parts of the country, but the ones along the West Coast and in Fiordland are particularly voracious. They are especially numerous close to streams and lakes because this is where the insect lives during the larval stage of its life-cycle. Only the adult female is a blood-sucker as she needs the hormonal stimulus that blood provides before she can lay her eggs. Normally sandflies would attack birds, but any warmblooded animal will do and they seem to find humans especially delectable. By way of consolation it might help to add that sandflies are mostly active during the day and, though their bite itches, it is not dangerous. Local repellants are quite effective at warding them off and should be used if you want to have a relaxing day by the sea or a lake.

This ‘giant sandfly’ hangs outside the Bushman’s Centre close to Lake Ianthe

199

The West Coast (Westland)

the parkÕs natural history and geology at Westland National Park Headquarters in Franz Josef Village. Like all Park Visitor Centres they have leaflets describing many of the walks, both long and short, in the area. Both glaciers look a little bit disappointing from a distance, so the only way to truly appreciate their dramatic beauty is to get as close as possible. The cheapest way to get close-up views of Franz Josef is to follow the unsealed access road a distance of 3 1 /2 miles (6km) to the carpark where there is an information kiosk. From here the Glacier Valley Walk (1 1 /2 hours return) leads to a viewpoint close to the terminal ice. Admittedly it would be even better to actually walk onto the glacier, but this should only be done on a guided walk. Most expensive, but certainly most spectacular of all, are flights over the glaciers. A ÔGrand CircleÕ flight takes in not only Fox and Franz Josef but also the mighty Tasman Glacier in Mount Cook National Park. A snow landing on one of the glaciers allows visitors to experience a pristine world of snow and ice that is normally the exclusive preserve of experienced alpinists.

Fox Glacier Village Fox Glacier Village is another 15 1 /2 miles (25km) further south. Access to the glacier is provided by two unsealed roads a short distance to the south of the village. The northern approach road (Fox Glacier Road) runs along the north bank of the Fox River and brings you closest to the glacier. From the carpark, a track leads over 200

rock debris to the impressive wall of ice that marks the terminal face. Once again visitors are warned not to venture onto the ice without a guide! The southern approach road (Glacier View Road) runs along the other side of the Fox River. The Chalet Lookout Walk (1 hour return) starts from the carpark and allows panoramic views of the glacierÕs lower reaches. However, the views are even more spectacular if this track is combined with the Cone Rock Walk , a side track that branches off the Chalet route. The entire round trip would take about 3 hours. As at Franz Josef, it is also possible to take a spectacular helicopter or ski-plane flight over the glaciers.

Lake Matheson The road to Gillespies Beach runs west of the village and allows a detour to Lake Matheson. In the very early morning, on windless days, the lakeÕs dark waters reflect a perfect mirror image of the snow-capped alps Ñ one of the most famous picture-postcard panoramas in New Zealand. A walk around the lake takes 1 1 /2 hours. Even if wind or a late breakfast has ruined the chances of a stunning lake photo, it is worth continuing the scenic drive to the coast as it provides plenty of other photographic opportunities. From Gillespies Beach, a 3 hour return walk leads to a large seal colony.

Lakes Paringa and Moeraki The drive from Fox Glacier down to Haast is accompanied by magnificent

The West Coast (Westland)

The Copland Track The most challenging walk in Westland National Park is without doubt the Copland Track (4 days). It starts 151/2 miles (25km) south of Fox Glacier near the Karangarua River Bridge. Here a signpost points the way to Copland Valley. This alpine traverse links Westland to Mount Cook National Park and should on no account be attempted by the inexperienced. The Copland Valley section of the track is, however, quite easy walking. It is 6 hours from the road to Welcome Flat hut where there are hot springs. The springs, together with some magnificent alpine scenery, make the Copland Valley a very popular place in summer. For those who want to attempt the alpine crossing, it is best to start from The Hermitage in Mount Cook National Park where a guide can be arranged (see Chapter 11).

scenery for the entire distance. After a brief interlude on the coast at Bruce Bay, the road winds inland again to pass Lakes Paringa and Moeraki. Surrounded by dense forest, both offer good trout fishing but Moeraki is perhaps the more idyllic lake. Reasonably priced accommodation is provided by the Lake Paringa Heritage Lodge ☎ (03) 751 0894 and the Lake Moeraki Wilderness Lodge ☎ (03) 750 0881.

A short walk through native forest leads from Lake Moeraki to the coast and MonroeÕs Beach, where there is a breeding colony of Fiordland crested penguins (JulyNovember). The road itself soons reaches the coast just south of Lake Moeraki and follows it the rest of the way to Haast, passing several good viewpoints en route.

Haast region Haast township is scattered over a wide area and comprises Haast (a small servicing settlement), Haast Junction on the main highway, and Haast Beach on the Haast Beach-Jackson Bay Road. Where exactly the middle of town might be is anybodyÕs guess, but more importantly this loose collection of petrol stations, hotels and shop (there is only one general store) is the gateway to a beautiful, wild region known simply as ÔHaastÕ.

Wilderness and Wildlife The wilderness area of Haast is part of the South-West New Zealand World Heritage Area (Te Wahipounamu). Established in 1990, Te Wahipounamu encompasses Westland, Mount Cook, Mount Aspiring and Fiordland National Parks Ñ roughly 10 per cent of New ZealandÕs total area. The Haast region stretches along the coast south of Haast township to the Cascade River. This remote pocket of land between the sea and the Southern Alps preserves a unique natural environment composed of majestic kahikatea swamp forests, coastal lagoons, deserted driftwood-strewn beaches 201

The West Coast (Westland)

and beautiful rivers and lakes. At rocky points along the coast it is possible to view blue and Fiordland crested penguins and fur seals. Inland the lowland rainforests offer refuge to parakeets, kakas (bush parrots), kiwis and many other native birds.

Central Otago. Along the way there are several waterfalls that can be reached on short walks from the road. Especially picturesque are Thunder Falls and Fantail Falls (both are 5 minutes return).

Makarora

Useful information A good base for activities in Haast would be the Haast Motor Camp at Okuru, but there is also hotel/motel accommodation at Haast Junction and Haast Beach. Information about walks and adventure activities in the Haast region can be obtained from the South Westland World Heritage Visitor Centre at Haast Junction. They also have a useful pamphlet describing short walks along the Haast Pass Highway.

Haast Pass Though Haast Pass (1,847ft/563m) is the lowest of the three road passes linking the West Coast to the east, the journey along the glacially formed Haast River Valley is nevertheless of great scenic beauty Ñ but do not count on seeing snow-capped mountain peaks as they are often obscured by cloud. The western side of the pass is characterised by the lush rainforests so typical of the West Coast, but once the pass is crossed the dense forest vegetation soon gives way to the golden tussock grasslands of 202

At Makarora on the far side of the pass there is a Visitor Centre for Mount Aspiring National Park (the road over Haast Pass actually cuts through the northern extremities of the park) and a tea room. The surrounding countryside offers some excellent walking, especially for those who prefer lesser known and less crowded tracks.

Siberia adventure tour A great way to get to know the area if you have limited time is the Siberia Experience. This adventure tour starts from Makarora and involves a 25 minute scenic flight to the remote Siberia Valley in Mount Aspiring National Park, a three hour bush walk (without a guide) and then a jet-boat ride back to Makarora. The Makarora Tourist Centre (☎ (03) 443 8372) offers the tour from mid-October to mid-April. People wishing to overnight in Makarora may choose between the motel or one of the simple DOC campsites to the north of town at Cameron Flat and Davis Flat.

The West Coast (Westland)

From Makarora the road continues south past the shores of lakes Wanaka and Hawea to Wanaka township, the first place of any size since Fox Glacier. The superb scenery of the West Coast has now been exchanged for a landscape that is perhaps even more spectacular: like sapphires adorning an emerald crown, the Southern Lakes fringe the vast untouched forests of Fiordland.

Left: Guided walks are the best way to appreciate Fox Glacier

Above right: Scenic flights with a snow landing are an unforgettable experience for visitors to Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers

203

A

The West Coast (Westland)

ACTIVITIES Fox Glacier

Hokitika

Glacier Walks

Boat Trips

Alpine Guides Fox Glacier Depart: daily 9.30am & 2pm. Duration: 3 hrs. ☎ (03) 751 0825 They also organise various other activities such as glacier skiing.

Scenic Waterways Paddle Boat Cruises Main South Road, PO Box 290 ☎ (03) 755 7239 Depart: 3 miles (5km) south of Hokitika. Daily 10.30am, 2pm & 6pm.

Scenic Flights See under Franz Josef Glacier

Franz Josef Glacier Glacier Walks Franz Josef Glacier Guides Depart: daily 9.15am & 2pm. Duration: 3 hrs ☎ (03) 752 0763

Scenic Flights All the following companies offer snow landings. Fox Glacier Helicopter Services ☎ (03) 7520 793 (Franz Josef) or (03) 7510 0866 (Fox) Glacier Helicopters ☎ (03) 752 0755 (Franz Josef) or (03) 751 0803 (Fox) Mount Cook Line Skiplanes ☎ (03) 752 0714 (Franz Josef) (03) 751 0812 (Fox) Grand circle flights (60mins).

Greymouth White Water Rafting Wild West Adventure Company c/o Greymouth Information Centre ☎ (03) 768 6649 Also cave rafting.

204

Scenic Flights Westair ☎ (03) 755 7767 Flights over the glaciers, Mt Cook and Milford Sound. Wilderness Wings c/o Information Centre ☎ (03) 755 8322 or 755 8118 To the glaciers and various other destinations.

White Water Rafting Alpine Rafts Kawhaka Station ☎ (03) 755 8156 Exciting raft trips on the Wanganui and Hokitika rivers.

Karamea Adventure Caving Adventures Unlimited c/o Last Resort, PO Box 17 ☎ (03) 782 6617 or 0800 505 042 Tours of Honeycomb cave system and Oparara Basin.

Kayaking/Canoeing Adventures Unlimited c/o Last Resort ☎ (03) 782 6617 Kayak rentals and trips in Oparara Basin.

A Okarito

Westport

Nature Tours

Adventure Caving

Okarito Nature Tours The Strand ☎ (03) 753 4014 Kayak trips on Okarito lagoon.

Norwest Adventures Ltd 41 Domett Street ☎ (03) 789 6686 This company offers the Te Tahi cave tour and cave rafting.

Punakaiki Kayaking/Canoeing Pororari Canoe & Cycle Hire ☎ (03) 731 1870

Nature Tours Kiwa Sea Adventures c/o Visitor Centre ☎ (03) 731 1893 Boat trips to the coastal fauna. Paparoa Nature Tours ☎ (03) 731 1826 Bird-watching trips and canoe excursions.

White Water Rafting Buller Adventure Tours Buller Gorge Road ☎ (03) 789 7286 Buller, Karamea and other rivers.

Whataroa Nature Tours White Heron Sanctuary Tours Ltd ☎ (03) 753 4120 Tours of the White Heron Sanctuary. Season is Nov-Feb.

ACCOMMODATION See pages 288 and 300 in the FactFile for the accommodation and restaurant rating guide

Fox Glacier Fox Glacier Holiday Park $ Lake Matheson Road ☎ (03) 751 0821 Fax (03) 751 0813 Tent sites, cabins, tourist flats, motel and 40 bed lodge. Ivory Towers $ (Backpackers) Sullivans Road ☎ (03) 751 0838

Fox Glacier Hotel $$ Cook Flat Road ☎ (03) 751 0839 Fax (03) 751 0868 Located in the middle of the village.

Franz Josef Chateau Franz $ (Backpackers) 8 Cron St ☎/Fax (03) 752 0738 Central location. 205

A

Above: Shantytown near Greymouth

Below: One of the most beautiful drives in New Zealand; the West Coast Highway

206

The West Coast (Westland)

A

Franz Josef Glacier Hotel $$$ On SH6 ☎ (03) 752 0719 Fax (03) 752 0709

Greymouth Living Streams Hostel $ (Backpackers) Cowper Street ☎ (03) 768 7272 Fax (03) 768 7276 Free use of kayaks. RevingtonÕs Hotel $$ Tainui St ☎ (03) 768 7055 Fax (03) 768 7605 Oldest hotel in town. Queen Elizabeth II stayed here in 1954. The twin-bedded rooms are budget priced.

Haast Haast Highway Accommodation $ Marks Road ☎ (03) 750 0703 Tent sites and units.

Punakaiki Backpackers Beach Hostel $ Cnr Webb St & Dickenson Parade ☎ (03) 731 1852 Close to beach, facilities for the disabled, tent sites. Te Nikau Retreat $ 2 miles (3km) north of Pancake Rocks ☎ (03) 731 1111 Beautiful setting, not easy to find.

Westport BazilÕs Hostel $ (Backpackers) 54 Russell Street ☎ (03) 789 6410 Popular, friendly and central. Cosmopolitan Hotel $$ Palmerston Street ☎ (03) 789 6305

Wilderness Backpackers $ Pauareka Road ☎ 0800 750 029 Only 55 yards (50 metres) from bus stop. World Heritage Hotel $$ On SH6 ☎ (03) 750 0828 Fax (03) 750 0827 Good restaurant.

Punakaiki (Hostels, etc are often full around here in summer).

Lake Matheson’s still waters are famed for their reflection of the Southern Alps

207

A

The West Coast (Westland)

EATING OUT Barrytown All Nations Tavern $ Main Highway ☎ (03) 731 1812 Typical pub food. Also accommodation.

Fox Glacier Cook Saddle Saloon & Cafe $$ On SH6 ☎ (03) 751 0700 Tex-Mex style.

Franz Josef

CafŽ Collage $$ (BYO) 115 Mackay Street ☎ (03) 768 5497 If available try the whitebait.

Hokitika PRÕs Coffee Shop Bistro $ Tancred Street ☎ (03) 755 8379 CafŽ de Paris $$ Sewell Street ☎ (03) 755 8933 Excellent food, whitebait available in season.

Blue Ice Cafe $ (BYO/Licensed) On SH6 ☎ (03) 752 0707 Lamb and venison along with pizza and pasta.

Tasman View $$ 111 Revell Strewet ☎ (03) 885 5344 Good views over beach.

D.AÕs Restaurant $$ (BYO/Licensed) Main Road ☎ (03) 752 0721

Nikau Palms CafŽ $ Main Road ☎ (03) 731 1841 Nice place to sit and relax.

Greymouth

Westport

Steamers CafŽ Bar $ 58 Mackay Street ☎ (03) 768 4193

Punakaiki

Diego Restaurant & Bar $$ 18 Wakefield Street ☎ (03) 789 7640 Best in town.

PLACES TO VISIT Charleston MitchellÕs Gully Gold Mine Open: daily 9am-4pm.

Hokitika

Greymouth

West Coast Historical Museum Tancred Street Open: daily 9.30am-5pm.

Shantytown (5 miles/8km south of town) Open: daily 8.30am-5pm.

Westland Greenstone 34 Tancred Street Open: daily 8am-5pm.

208

A Westport

Whataroa

Coaltown Queen Street South Open: daily.

White Heron Sanctuary See Activities.

REGIONAL TRANSPORT Picton/Christchurch Ð Greymouth

Christchurch to Hokitika and Greymouth via ArthurÕs Pass

Coast to Coast Bus ☎ 0800 800 847 (toll free within New Zealand).

Coast Shuttle Blenheim Taxis ☎ (03) 578 0225 Picton to Greymouth.

VISITOR INFORMATION & PARK VISITOR CENTRES Fox Glacier

Hokitika

Fox Glacier Visitor Centre (Westland National Park) State Highway 6 PO Box 9 ☎ (03) 751 0807 Fax (03) 751 0858

Westland Visitor Information Centre Sewell Street ☎ (03) 755 8322 Fax (03) 755 8026

Franz Josef Glacier

Information & Resource Centre PO Box 94 ☎/Fax (03) 782 6652

Franz Josef Visitor Centre (Westland National Park) State Highway 6, PO Box 14 ☎ (03) 752 0796 Fax (03) 752 0797

Greymouth Cnr Herbert & Mackay St ☎ (03) 768 5101 Fax (03) 768 0317

Haast South Westland World Heritage Visitor Centre State Highway 6 c/o Post Office Agency Open: daily 8.30am-7pm (Nov-April), otherwise 8.30am-4.30pm. ☎ (03) 750 0809 Fax (03) 750 0832

Karamea

Last Resort PO Box 17 ☎ (03) 782 6617 Fax (03) 782 6820

Paparoa National Park Visitor Centre State Highway, PO Box 1, Punakaiki Open: daily 8.30am-6pm early Nov to Easter. Otherwise 9am-4pm. ☎ (03) 731 1895 Fax (03) 731 1888

Westport Buller Visitor & Information Centre 1 Brougham Street ☎ (03) 789 6658 209

SOUTHERN LAKES & FIORDLAND

Mount Aspiring

Martins Bay

M il

fo

rd

Mitre Peak

Lake Hawea

Lake McKerrow

So u

Glendhu Bay Wanaka

nd

Milford Track

Lake Hawea

Lake Wanaka

Hollyford Track

Milford Sound

Tasman Sea

Mount Aspiring National Park

Routeburn Track 94 Lake Wakatipu

6

Cardrona Glenorchy Arrowtown

Lake Dunstan

Queenstown

Cromwell 85

Queenstown Te Anau Downs Lake Te Anau

Doubtful Sound

Kepler Track

Alexandra

Kiwi & Birdlife Park Motor Museum Skyline Gondola Underwater World

Te Ana-au Caves Te Anau

8

8

Kingston 6

Wildlife Centre

Manapouri Lake Manapouri

Fiordland National Park

94

Lake Monowai

Dusky Sound

Lumsden

Lake Hauroko Lake Poteriteri

94 1

96

Tuatapere

Riverton

6

96 1

99

Invercargill

0

0

210

30

30

90

Blackmount

60miles

60kms

Bluff

Foveaux Strait

SOUTHERN LAKES & FIORDLAND Carved by glaciers many thousands of years ago, lakes Wanaka, Hawea, Wakatipu, Te Anau and Manapouri are set in a landscape that is magnificent even by New Zealand standards. Hub of the region is Queenstown which not only enjoys a marvellous setting on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, but also offers superb skiing in winter and a dazzling array of outdoor activities in summer. To the north and south-west of Queenstown are the untamed wilderness areas of Mount Aspiring and Fiordland National Parks. The former impresses with the splendour of its alpine scenery, whereas the latter is renowned for its spectacular fiords and evergreen rainforests. Even if time does not allow for the walk along FiordlandÕs famous Milford Track, no visitor should leave the region without taking a cruise on Milford Sound. The scenery is quite stunning and makes a visit to this fiord one of the absolute highlights of any trip to New Zealand. Opposite page: Fiordland Travel Tour Coaches allow plenty of time for sightseeing Above: Skiing, The Remarkables Skifield, Queenstown

211

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

¥ ROUTE 11 ¥ WANAKA TO MANAPOURI AND BEYOND Wanaka So far, Wanaka has been spared the great flood of tourists that descend on Queenstown, the regionÕs principal tourist resort further south. Situated directly on the shores of Lake Wanaka, the town serves as a relaxed base for a whole range of outdoor activities in the midst of splendid scenery. Kayaking, rafting, paragliding, horse trekking and tramping are just a few of the sports that can be enjoyed here. In winter the town really comes alive as there is excellent downhill skiing at the Cardrona and Treble Cone fields. More experienced skiers have the chance to try some heliskiing high up in the Harris Mountains , whereas the Waiorau ski area has been developed for cross-country skiing. Gentler pursuits around Wanaka might include a round of golf at the Wanaka Golf Club , an aerial tour, a hovercraft trip on the lake or an attempt to solve the outdoor maze at the Maze and Puzzle Centre , a few kilometres out of town in the direction of Cromwell. But it might also be enough to simply go picnicking on the lake shore and to enjoy at leisure the unobstructed view of mountains and lake. Like Lake Wanaka, nearby Lake Hawea is a popular place for trout and salmon fishing. However, this lake lacks WanakaÕs beaches and gently sloping shoreline as they were drowned when the water level 212

was raised in 1958 as part of a hydro-electric scheme. The lake is nevertheless still very picturesque and Lake Hawea township provides an even better place to get away from the tourist crowds than does Wanaka. But for those who want real solitude, the only solution is to pull on the hiking boots and to bid farewell to civilisation for two or three days among the mountains and valleys of Mount Aspiring National Park.

Mount Aspiring National Park With a total area of 714,000 acres (289,000 hectares), New ZealandÕs third largest national park covers a large chunk of the Southern Alps Ñ from the Haast River in the north, to where it joins Fiordland National Park in the south. At the heart of this park is Mount Aspiring (9,928ft/3,027m), a pyramid-like peak which has often been compared to the Matterhorn in the Swiss Alps. The Maori name for the region, Titiraurangi (Ôthe land of many peaks piercing the cloudsÕ), captures the essentially alpine character of a place that is as exhilarating for the tramper as it is for the mountaineer. Like Westland, Mount Cook and Fiordland National Parks, it belongs to the South-West New Zealand World Heritage Area. From Wanaka it is a 33 miles (54km) drive along the Mount Aspiring Road to the parkÕs bounda ries.

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

Walking in Mt Aspiring Park The track to Aspiring Hut (2-3 hours one way) starts from the car park at Raspberry Hut and follows the west branch of the Matukituki River. It would make a good dayÕs walk for those who do not have the time to explore this valley more thoroughly. There are however, a number of side trips from this hut that would make a tour of two to four days very rewarding. One such trip is the track to Lucas Trotter Hut which leads to the glaciers around Mount Aspiring and some stunning alpine scenery. The track between Aspiring Hut and Dart Hut via Cascade Saddle also guarantees magnificent alpine views but should only be attempted by the experienced. Apart from the Matukituki Valley, other access points to the park are from the Haast Road, Makarora (see Chapter 8) and Glenorchy near Queenstown. Glenorchy is in fact the starting point for some of the best-known walks in the park such as the Routeburn and the Rees-Dart (see Queenstown). However walks in the central and northern regions of the park tend to be much less crowded and no less spectacular. A number of organised treks also start from Wanaka which enable trampers to reach areas of the park that are normally only accessible for the very experienced. Park headquarters in Wanaka can give advice on all the options available.

The road heads west along the lake to pretty Glendhu Bay from where it soon enters the Matukituki Valley, which is then followed to the road end at Raspberry Hut . On the way to Glendhu Bay, those with surplus energy could scale RoyÕs Peak (5,198ft/1,585m) for splendid views of Mount Aspiring (5 hours return, signposted from road).

Routes to Queenstown The direct route from Wanaka to Queenstown would be along the

Crown Range Road via Cardrona, which is the highest main road in the country. But as this scenic mountain road is partly unsealed, it does in fact take longer than the route via Cromwell on SH6. In winter the Crown Range Road may be closed and anyway, it is an alternative that is best left for fine weather. However, if you do venture along this way it is well worth stopping in at the historic Cardrona Hotel restaurant. It was built in 1868 and is a popular eatery among skiers as it is close to the Cardrona skifield. 213

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

Cromwell and the Kawarau Gorge The main road to Queenstown passes Cromwell before entering the scenic Kawarau Gorge. Around Cromwell there are a number of roadside stalls where you can replenish the picnic hamper with nectarines, apricots, peaches and a variety of other fruits at bargain prices. If time allows the local museum is worth visiting for its interesting displays on the regionÕs gold-mining days. What used to be ÔOld CromwellÕ is now covered by the waters of Lake Dunstan, an artificial lake that was created as part of a huge hydro-electric scheme. Some of the townÕs historic buildings were rescued, however, and can now be seen in the Old Cromwell historic village on Melmore Terrace. In the Kawarau Gorge, the Mining Centre is not only a place where visitors can have a look at genuine nineteenth century goldfield, but also where they can have a go at panning for gold themselves. Access to the site is across a footbridge over the gorge. Closer to Queenstown, it is worth stopping to have a look at the bungy jumping from the old Kawarau suspension bridge (143ft/ 432m). Bungy jumping as a spectator sport seems to be as popular here as actually doing it, and often tour buses will stop just to let people have a look. At Arrow Junction a secondary road branches off the main road towards Arrowtown and then continues to Queenstown via ArthurÕs Point. For those who would rather save Arrowtown for later, the main road continues directly to 214

Queenstown past Lake Hayes, a very pretty little lake that looks particularly attractive when the trees that surround it are aglow with the colours of autumn.

Arrowtown With a main street lined by faithfully restored buildings from the nineteenth century, Arrowtown is probably the most atmospheric of all New ZealandÕs old gold-mining towns. On top of this, a good range of shops and accommodation makes the place a very pleasant alternative base for those who can do without QueenstownÕs nightlife. A good time to visit is definitely autumn when all the deciduous trees that have been planted around town are at their photogenic best. The Lakes District Centennial Museum in Buckingham Street provides an excellent introduction to the townÕs gold-mining past. Once visitors have informed themselves here, it is worth walking to the site of the old Chinese minersÕ settlement at the western end of Buckingham Street, adjacent to the Arrow River. The Chinese came to Otago in the 1860Õs to eek out a frugal existence searching for gold in the Shotover and Arrow Gorges . Unfortunately they had to suffer the prejudice of their European neighbours and were forced to live apart from the main settlement. A few simple dwellings as well as a Chinese store have been preserved at the site. An interesting excursion from Arrowtown is to Macetown , an old gold-minersÕ settlement that is now a ghost town. It is a long slog on foot (6 hrs round trip) but the trip can

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

Above: Kelvin Heights Golf Course, Queenstown

Right: Arrowtown

Below: Bungy Jumping, Kawarau Suspension Bridge, Queenstown

215

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

also be done on a mountain-bike, on horse-back or most comfortably on a four-wheel drive tour Ñ ask at the museum for details. It is a good idea to check about river levels in Arrowtown before walking or biking the route, as there are 26 river crossings on the way!

Queenstown Queenstown is set next to the shores of beautiful Lake Wakatipu , with The Remarkables mountain range providing a magnificent backdrop from across the lakeÕs deep blue waters. In autumn or winter, when the surrounding peaks are capped with snow, like icing sugar on a cake, the setting is more than picturesque, it is absolutely stunning! Inevitably, the South IslandÕs premier holiday resort is as packed with tourists as it is with things to do, but no first time visitor to New Zealand can afford to miss it on their itinerary. Queenstown does, after all , cater to all pockets: Backpackers c an find plenty of budget accommodation to offset the expensive hotels, and prices at many restaurants are surprisingly reasonable. However, any visitor wishing to take part in organised activities in Queenstown should be warned that some of these can be expensive. Still, in Queenstown the rule of thumb is that if you can pay for it you can do it and the range of activities is enormous; ballooning, kayaking, jet-boating, parapenting, rafting, river surfing (shoot the rapids on a boogie board) and the list goes on. Less of a test of courage but also very exhilarating are the jetboat trips on the Shotover, Kawerau and Dart Rivers. In real demand 216

Bungy Though bungy jumping is now offered elsewhere in New Zealand, it is still one of the most popular activities in Queenstown. The majority of jumps are organised by bungy ÔpioneerÕ A.J. Hackett, who brought the bungy craze to the world when he jumped off the Eiffel Tower in 1987. With a rubber cord tied securely around the ankles, the bungy jumper leaps into the void, reaching a top speed of around 93 miles (150km) an hour, before the cord checks the fall. As proof that the deed has been done, a video is taken of all jumpers as they plummet downwards. Apart from the Kawarau Bridge already mentioned, it is also possible to jump off the more spectacular, and higher, Skippers Canyon Bridge (232ft/71m) on the upper reaches of the Shotover River. The latest

among many visitors is the ride with the famous Shotover Jet through the spectacular scenery of the Shotover River Canyons, but the trips offered by other companies such as Kawerau Jet and Dart River Jetboat Safari are certainly worth a try too. White water rafting is also popular on the Kawarau and Shotover Rivers, though the trip on the Shotover

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

its narrow gorges were once the scene of the countryÕs largest gold rush. It had its beginnings in 1862 after two shearers discovered a large quantity of gold in the river. Before long, thousands of fortune hunters had arrived to stake their claims. The diggings around Skippers Canyon were particularly productive but the cost of extracting gold from this difficult area was so high that large scale operations were brought to an end in 1907. Drivers who want to visit the area are warned that the road through the steep gorge of Skippers Canyon is narrow, unsealed and very windy. If a tour bus is encountered it can mean reversing considerable distances. Coaches make the trip regularly from Queenstown and this is probably the better alternative, even for those with their own transport. For more information about a bus trip to Skippers, contact Mount Cook Line Travel Centre , Rees Street ( ☎ (03) 442 7650).

Jumping additions to QueenstownÕs bungy repertoire are The Ledge and the Pipeline Bridge jumps. The Ledge is another brainchild of A.J. Hackett and takes place 1,312ft (400m) above Queenstown amidst breathtaking scenery on BobÕs Peak . At present the Pipeline Bridge bungy jump is the only one not organised by Hackett. In order to ensure that they could compete with the established jumps, the operators went to the extent of building the largest single-span suspension bridge in the southern hemisphere over Skippers Canyon. At 335ft (102m) it is even higher than the Skippers Canyon Bridge used by AJ Hackett. The Pipeline jump gets its name from an old water pipeline that was built for gold sluicing in 1864.

Lake Wakatipu

through the Oxenbridge Tunnel is meant to be the most exciting. Leisurely three-day rafting tours are organised on the Landsborough River.

Gold-mining history Although the Shotover River is the realm of jet boaters and rafters today

,

Much more relaxing than jumping off bridges or shooting rapids is a lake cruise on the TSS Earnslaw (1912), a vintage steamer that once carried goods to and from isolated sheep stations scattered around the lake. In the mornings and afternoons, passengers are taken on a three-hour cruise to Walter Peak sheep station for a glimpse of life on a high-country farm. It is also possible to have lunch on board the boat during a short midday cruise and there are evening cruises with a meal at Walter Peak for the romantically minded. Those who have missed a sailing can at least visit Underwater World 217

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

on the pier at the end of the Mall Ñ not far from the steamer wharf. An underwater-viewing gallery allows a close-up look at the lake's inhabitants; native eels, along with rainbow and brown trout are attracted by automatic feeders. Quite often small ducks known as scaup put in guest appearances as they dive in search of food.

Other attractions Other places to visit in town include the Queenstown Motor Museum with its collection of vintage cars, and the Kiwi and Birdlife Park .

Both are located near the lower terminal of the Skyline Gondola in Brecon Street. The gondola is an attraction in itself and the spectacular ride up BobÕs Peak is not to be missed. At the top one can enjoy a splendid panorama of lake and mountains from the comfort of a licensed restaurant.

Skiing In winter Queenstown is no less active than in summer, the only difference being that activities have shifted to the surrounding ski fields. Closest to town are Coronet Peak and the

Walks around Glenorchy A nice excursion, or break, from Queenstown is to follow the unsurfaced road along the Wakatipu shoreline to Glenorchy, at the head of the lake. Glenorchy is the starting point for the Routeburn, Rees-Dart, Greenstone and Caples tracks. Of these it is the Routeburn, a magnificent three to four day hike through Mount Aspiring and Fiordland National Parks, that is most famous. This route can be turned into a round trip by combining it with either the Caples or Greenstone Track. Though not as spectacular, the Greenstone and Caples tracks have the advantage of being less crowded than the Routeburn and are usually done together as a loop walk in four or five days. Least travelled of all these tracks is the Rees-Dart. This circular route through forest and dramatic alpine scenery can be walked in four days. An interesting option is to do the last section by inflatable canoe (known as a Fun Yak). The organisers bring trampers to the start of the track by van, from where they walk independently for three or more days through the Rees and Upper Dart Valleys. On the last day a guide meets trampers at Sandy Bluff in the Dart Valley for the canoe trip back to Glenorchy. This trip is advertised as the ÔFun Yak canoeing optionÕ . For more information contact Danes in Queenstown, corner Shotover and Camp Streets ☎ (03) 442 7318. During the summer season, transport to the starting points of all three tracks can be arranged from either Queenstown or Glenorchy.

218

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

Above: Lake Hawea Right: Continental cafe in the Mall at Queenstown Below: View from Brunswick Lodge, Queenstown

219

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

Remarkables but daily shuttle buses also run to Treble Cone and Cardrona near Wanaka. The ski season lasts from about June to October.

Nightlife Apr•s-ski fans will appreciate that QueenstownÕs nightlife is somewhat more lively than in other New Zealand towns. There are a number of places where one can wine, dine and dance until late in the night. Live entertainment is offered at the Skyline Restaurant , ChicoÕs Restaurant and Bar , the Lone Star Saloon and Vilagrad . A good cold beer can be enjoyed till the early hours at McNeillÕs Brewery CafŽ, the Pig & Whistle or EichardtÕs . Solera Vino is a wine bar which is meant to be good for a wild night on the town. All in all Queenstown has over 20 bars, four nightclubs and over 100 restaurants to choose from.

Day trips Visitors who do not have their own transport, or want to save themselves the drive from Queenstown, can book a variety of day trips to Milford or Doubtful Sound . The trips include a cruise on the sounds and can be done with the bus, a combination of bus and plane or, quickest of all, by flying there and back. The journey using only the bus is certainly the cheapest but it makes for a long day: the Doubtful Sound trip takes 14 hours and the Milford trip takes 12 hours. Day trips are offered by Fiordland Travel , Mt Cook , Pacific Tourways and a few others. Shop around for the best deals. 220

Moving on The road south from Queenstown to Te Anau (109 miles/177km) is quite scenic with the first leg of the journey following the Wakatipu shoreline as far as Kingston, at the lakeÕs southern tip.

The Kingston steam train In the summer months an old steam train known as the Kingston Flyer runs along the track between Kingston and Fairlight. Passengers get to ride in old fashioned wooden carriages and can enjoy refreshments in a turn-ofthe-century buffet carriage that has been fitted out with beautiful New Zealand native wood panelling.

At Five Rivers turn right off SH6 towards Mossburn. From here SH94 is followed to Te Anau and Fiordland.

Fiordland National Park The largest of all New ZealandÕs national parks protects a vast, magnificent expanse of mountainous terrain covered by forests, penetrated by fiords and studded with glacially formed lakes. One of these lakes, Lake Te Anau , is surpassed in size only by Lake Taupo in the North Island. In view of all this, it is hardly surprising that Fiordland forms a vital part of the South-West New Zealand World

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

Heritage Area, one of the few places on earth that have survived the onslaught of civilisation in a virtually unspoiled state.

Survival of the takahe That Fiordland has been able to escape the devastating effects of the axe and plough is largely due to its remoteness and rugged character. These factors have also been important in enabling the survival of one of the countryÕs rarest birds. In 1948 the takahe (Notornis mantelli) was rediscovered in a secluded valley in the Murchison Mountains. This flightless bird had been presumed extinct for more than half a century and its rediscovery aroused worldwide interest. The area in which the birds were found is now closed to the general public in order to ensure that the colony remains undisturbed.

Te Anau Te Anau, on the shores of the lake of the same name, is the springboard for trips to Milford Sound and walks in Fiordland National Park. There is not a great deal to do in town itself but those with time to spare can choose from a variety of lake cruises or perhaps indulge in a scenic flight on a floatplane. About a ten minute walk from the Visitor Centre, in the direction of

Manapouri, is the Te Anau Wildlife Centre. It is worth a look not only because it is free, but also because this is one of the few places where visitors can get a close-up look at the rare takahe. Other native birds to be seen here include kakas, keas, tuis and parakeets.

Te Ana-au Caves A highlight of any Te Anau visit is the 2 1 /2 hour excursion to Te Ana-au Caves, the ÔCaves of Rushing WaterÕ. Though the caves were referred to in Maori legends, their exact location had long been a mystery and it was not until 1948, after a search of several years, that they were rediscovered. Located on the lake shore, at the edge of the restricted takahe area, the cave system is accessible only by boat from Te Anau. A combination of footpaths and two short boat trips through spectacular limestone caverns, leads visitors past underground waterfalls and to a glow-worm grotto.

Walking in Fiordland Park There are many short day walks that can be started from Te Anau but the goal of most enthusiastic trampers is one of the big walks: the Kepler , the Hollyford , the Routeburn (see Glenorchy) or the famous Milford Track . Vital equipment for all walkers on these tracks is good quality wet weather gear (Fiordland gets some of the highest rainfalls in New Zealand) and plenty of strong insect repellant to keep the sand-flies at bay. Ô DimpÕ is a well known local brand of repellant but it also helps to wear long sleeve shirts and trousers. 221

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

222

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

Kepler Track Of the tracks mentioned above it is only the Kepler that forms a circular route. The track starts at the Lake Te Anau outlet control gates, a 45 minute walk from the Te Anau park Visitor Centre. Those who wish can also catch a shuttle bus to the start of the track or take one of the boat services from Te Anau to Brod Bay , thus saving three hours walking. The tramp, which takes three to four days, features splendid views from alpine ridge tops, lovely beech forest and a U-shaped glacial valley. The huts along the way are quite comfortable but camping is also permitted at Brod Bay and Iris Burn.

Hollyford Track The Hollyford Track is a very long walk (69 miles/112km total distance) from Hollyford Camp (formerly GunnÕs Camp) on the Hollyford Road to the Tasman Sea at Martins Bay . The outward journey and return trip along the same route would take roughly eight days. However the time required to walk the track can be greatly reduced (4 days) by taking a pre-arranged jet-boat across Lake McKerrow (the stretch of track along the lake is rather dull and difficult) and then flying out from Martins Bay. This can all be arranged through Hollyford Valley Walks in Te Anau. They also conduct guided walks along the Hollyford Valley which include the jet-boat trip and the

flight out as an optional extra. At remote Martins Bay there is a seal colony and Fiordland crested penguins may also be spotted.

Milford Track Last but certainly not least is the Milford Track . Often described as Ôthe finest walk in the worldÕ it is also New ZealandÕs most strictly controlled. The number of people who can walk the track in any one season is limited, it must be done within four days (31 miles/50km) and can only be walked in one direction. These controls, and others, are necessary to protect the track from overcrowding and to ensure that the natural environment remains intact. In spite of all the limitations the walk is worth it. Waterfalls, lakes, mountain valleys carved by glaciers, luxuriant rainforest and stunning alpine views are all ingredients that combine to make the Milford Track so exceptional. One of the walkÕs most outstanding scenic highlights is the view of Sutherland Falls. With a drop of 1,900ft (580m) the falls are the highest in New Zealand and the fifth highest in the world. The only other way to see this spectacle is on one of the scenic flights from Te Anau or Queenstown Ñ highly recommended if time is limited. It is possible to do the Milford Track as an independent tramper or as part of a guided tour. Whereas the guided parties have everything provided, independent walkers must carry all the gear and supplies

Opposite page: — Main picture: A launch trip through Milford Sound is one of the highlights of any visit to New Zealand Insert: Lake Wakatipu

223

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

they need themselves. The track starts at Glade House which is usually reached by boat from Te Anau or Te Anau Downs. A launch picks walkers up at the other end for the trip to Milford Sound township. Everybody who wants to walk the Milford should book well in advance; this also applies to independent walkers as they require a permit for the track. These permits or accommodation passes can only be booked through the Park Visitor Centre at Te Anau. Note that the track is only open from November to mid-April and that December, January and February are the months when demand is highest.

The road to Milford Sound For those who have not been able to do the walk to Milford Sound, then the road is the next best thing. Visitors without private transport can take the bus from Te Anau but if you are driving yourself, try and pick up a copy of the free pamphlet describing the route which is available in Te Anau from either Fiordland Travel or the petrol station . As there are no petrol stations on the 73 miles (119km) stretch of road between Te Anau and Milford Sound (a 2 1 /2 hour drive) it is wise to make sure the tank is filled before departing. Leaving Te Anau the road first follows the lake shore before swinging inland to enter the national park. In fine weather, which is by no means guaranteed, this drive is one of the loveliest in New Zealand. Worthwhile stops on the way to the Homer Tunnel include the Mirror Lakes , Cascade Creek (refreshments) and Lake Gunn. 224

If time allows, the detour along the Hollyford Road to Hollyford Camp is also rewarding. Near the start of the road is a track leading up to Lake Marian (4 hours return) and some fine alpine views. At Hollyford Camp there are simple cabins with coal-range stoves, bunks and electric light (only a few hours in the evenings). The campÕs small museum is worth a look and there is also a shop with basic supplies. Most people who stay here are going to do the Hollyford Track but it would also be an alternative to accommodation in Milford for those with cars. From the Hollyford turn-off the Milford Road climbs towards the Homer Tunnel. Rough hewn and almost forbiddingly dark, the tunnel descends steeply for 3,998ft (1,219m) before it emerges dramatically into the magnificent upper reaches of the Cleddau Valley . Continuing its steep descent the road winds past a signpost pointing the way to the Chasm. A short walk (15 minutes return) leads through beautiful native forest to where the Cleddau River has carved its way through the rock, sculpting it into bizarre shapes and forming a chasm, some 72ft (22m) deep. From here it is just over 6 miles (10km) to Milford Sound.

Milford Sound Enclosed by walls of bare rock that rise vertically from the sea, the 9 mile (15km) long fiord known as Milford Sound was formed by glacial action during the last Ice Age, some 1.5 million years ago. One of the fiordÕs most picturesque features is the sheer rock pinnacle of Mitre

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

Peak which, rising as it does to a height of 5,556ft (1,694m), manages to stand out even in this landscape of superlatives.

Cruises The only way to really appreciate the majesty of Milford Sound is, of course, on one of the boat cruises that depart regularly from the large wharf complex. Apart from the spectacular scenery, such a cruise also promises close-up views of seals and occasionally dolphins. Remember it can pay to book ahead in the summer season as these trips are very popular and furthermore, do not be put off by wet weather! When it rains, MilfordÕs many waterfalls are at their most spectacular, especially the 505ft (154m)-high Stirling Falls which can only be seen from the boat. An interesting variation on the day trips is the overnight cruise on the sailing boat Milford Wanderer . This trip, along with several others, can be booked through Fiordland Travel in Te Anau or Queenstown.

Walks After the boat trip, which usually takes about 1 hour 45 minutes, it is worth making the short walk from the wharf to Lady Bowen Falls . The waterfall drops a spectacular 526ft (160m) from a hanging valley in the Darren Range. A large area at the foot of the falls is covered by a fine spray of water, including three old graves that must belong to the wettest in the world. The graves actually date back to the time of the early nineteenth century sealers and whalers who were sometimes

marooned for many months on FiordlandÕs inhospitable shores. More information about other walks and the history of the area is available at the Milford Sound Hotel.

Around Manapouri From Te Anau the way south continues via Manapouri, on the shores of beautiful Lake Manapouri . In the 1970Õs this idyllic piece of New Zealand was the subject of an intense environmental controversy. The government wanted to raise the level of the lake by 39ft (12m) to generate electricity for the aluminium smelter at Bluff. Massive protests prevented the worst, and though the hydroelectric scheme went ahead, the lake was not raised to levels that would have dramatically altered the local environment. Today it is possible to visit the hydro station, a trip that can be recommended even for environmentalists, if only because it is the most convenient way to visit isolated Doubtful Sound.

Doubtful Sound excursion The trip to Doubtful Sound, dubbed ÔNatureÕs MasterpieceÕ, commences with a cruise on Manapouri to the underground power station at the end of the lakeÕs West Arm. After leaving the launch, a bus descends the 1 mile (2km) spiral of the access tunnel, deep into the bowels of the earth, to the power stationÕs machine hall. Here visitors can admire the ingenuity that was required to 225

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

carve this huge cavern from the solid granite. After the tour of the machine hall the bus leaves the power station to climb over Wilmot Pass (2,197ft/670m) to Deep Cove in Doubtful Sound, which is then explored on a catamaran.

The Dusky Track For the more energetic, Manapouri also serves as a base for the challenging but uncrowded walk to Dusky Sound (10 days). The Dusky Track offers trampers an insight into the more remote reaches of Fiordland National Park as it threads its way through wild, rain-drenched forests and over alpine passes to reach isolated Supper Cove Hut on Dusky Sound. Because of the very rough nature of the terrain, this

AuthorsÕ Tip Rather than fly over the fiords (the sheer number of sightseeing flights over Milford Sound has caused a noise pollution problem), an environmentally friendly alternative is to try the Fiordland Ecology Holiday offered by Lance and Ruth Shaw at 1 Home Street, Manapouri. These natural history tours are especially devised for small groups and include a trip on a yacht through the lesser known regions of Fiordland. For more information ☎ (03)249 6600.

226

track is only suitable for experienced parties but it can be shortened to 4 or 5 days by flying in or out of Dusky Sound. Instead of starting at Manapouri it is also possible to start from Lake Hauroko further south. Both variations of the tramp can be linked for a trip taking from 8 to 10 days.

The Southern Scenic Route The way south from Manapouri continues along the Southern Scenic Route, which has its ÔofficialÕ starting point in Te Anau. It skirts the eastern borders of Fiordland National Park to the coast, which it then follows part of the way to Invercargill. As the road nears the coast it is bordered by huge hedges of native flax that function as wind-breaks. Macrocarpa trees have also been planted along the road for the same purpose and many of them have been bent into incredible shapes by the prevailing wind. Just over 54 miles (88km) from Invercargill, the small town of Tuatapere serves as a base for those who want to explore Lake Hauroko and the southern reaches of Fiordland National Park. Colac Bay and The Rocks near Riverton are safe areas for swimming. From Invercargill, the Southern Scenic Route follows SH92 through the Catlins to where it ends at Balclutha . The section from Invercargill is described in the following chapter. A pamphlet with a map of the route is available from the tourist offices in Te Anau, Invercargill and Dunedin.

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

A

ACTIVITIES Fiordland National Park Tramping Dusky Track: Waterwings Airways, Te Anau fly trampers to Supper Cove, thus saving the walk in. ☎ (03) 249 7405 Fax (03) 249 7939 Hollyford Track: Hollyford Valley Walks, Queenstown & Te Anau, arrange transport and also offer guided walks. ☎ (03)249 8012 (Te Anau) or (03) 442 3760 (Queenstown). Kepler Track: Te Anau Motor Park operates a shuttle bus to the track ☎ (03) 249 7457. The yacht Manuska (☎ (03) 249 7106) and Lakeland Boat Hire (☎ (03) 249 8364) bring trampers to Brod Bay from Te Anau Wharf.

Mitre Peak, Milford Sound

Milford Track Guided Walk: Bookings can be made through Te Anau Travelodge, ÔMilford Track Guided WalkÕ, PO Box 185, Te Anau ☎ (03) 249 7411 Fax (03) 249 7050. Milford Track Independent Walk: Bookings are made through Fiordland National Park Visitor Centre, PO Box 29, Te Anau. ☎ (03) 249 8514 or Fax (03) 249 8515 Bookings for both walks should be made several months or even a year in advance. For independent trampers, transport connections to and from the track can be booked with the application form for an accommodation pass that is available from the National Park Visitor Centre, Te Anau. Trampers must have transport arranged before they can pick up their accommodation passes.

227

A

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

Kingston

Bungy Jumping

Steam Train

AJ HackettÕs Action Culture Queenstown Bungy Centre (situated in The Station), Shotover Street Open: office is open daily 7.30am-7.30pm. Bungy jumps take place daily, except Christmas Day. Bookings essential ☎ (03) 442 7100. This company also offers a 1000ft (300m) jump from a helicopter.

Kingston Flyer Steam locomotive between Kingston and Fairlight. Return trip takes 1 hour. Departs Kingston twice daily during the summer months. For more information contact the Travel and Visitor Centre, Queenstown.

Queenstown Adventure Packages There are many packages to choose from. What follows is a selection. Ô Awesome FoursomeÕ involves a helicopter ride, white water rafting, jet boat trip and bungy jump ☎ (03) 442 7318 or AJ Hackett ☎ 442 7100. A similar combination is the Shotover Assault which includes the Pipeline Bungy Jump ☎ (03) 442 9792. Big Bay Wilderness Adventure starts with a flight to Big Bay on the West Coast. From here you walk through native forest, paddle in a canoe and finally return by plane to the starting point. ☎ (03) 442 6228 DaneÕs Trio Grandincludes a jet boat trip, helicopter flight and raft trip ☎ (03) 442 7318.

Boat Trips TSS Earnslaw Departs the: Steamer wharf daily for the cruise to Walter Peak Sheep Station. Here visitors can watch demonstrations of sheep shearing and sheep dogs at work.

228

Pipeline Bungy Pipeline Iglu, Shotover Street ☎ (03) 442 5455 At 335 feet (102m) the Pipeline is at present the highest bridge jump around Queenstown. There are daily departures to the jump site in Skippers Canyon.

Jet Boating Further details at the Information Centre, Cnr Camp & Shotover Sts. Dart River Jet Boat Safari ☎ (03) 442 9992 This trip lasts 51/2 hrs. Kawarau Jet ☎ (03) 442 6142 Shotover Jet ☎ (03) 42 8570 Twin Rivers Jet ☎ (03) 442 3257

Scenic Flights Scenic flights are popular and there are plenty to choose from. An interesting possibility is to take a fly/cruise/coach trip. This involves a scenic flight, a cruise on Milford Sound and a bus trip either to or from Queenstown. Companies offering such trips include Fiordland Travel ☎ (03) 442 7500 and Amazing Tours ☎ (03) 442 9437.

A White Water Rafting Danes Information Centre Cnr Shotover & Camp Streets ☎ (03) 442 7318 Kiwi Discovery Tours Camp Street ☎ (03) 442 7340 Landsborough River Expeditions PO Box 410 ☎/Fax (03) 442 3630 A 3 day tour or contact Danes for a 2 day trip on the Landsborough.

Manapouri Boat Trips DOUBTFUL SOUND TRIP Fiordland Travel Pearl Harbour ☎ (03) 249 6602 Long trip: daily 10.30am (23 Oct-31 March). Short Trip: daily 8.30am (1 Oct-31 March) & daily 10.30am (1 April-30 Sept.) Fiordland Travel arranges connecting coaches from Queenstown and Te Anau.

Milford Sound Boat Trips Fiordland Travel Steamer Wharf, Queenstown ☎ (03) 442 7500 or 0800 656 501 (Te Anau) This company offers a variety of cruises on Milford Sound. The standard launch cruise departs 11am & 1pm daily (all year round) and also 3pm daily from 1 Oct-20 April. Overnight cruises take place on the Milford Wanderer,

a motorised sailing vessel. The season for these cruises is 1 Oct-30 April. Day cruises are also offered on this boat at 10.45am (21/2 hrs) & 1.30pm (1 hr 50 mins) daily from 1 Oct-30 April. Red Boat Cruises ☎ (03) 249 7926 Bookings can also be made at various tour agencies in Queenstown. Departures: 11am & 1.30pm (all year round) and 10.30am, 1pm & 3pm from 1 Oct-30 April. Fiordland Fish ÔnÕ Dive ☎/Fax (03) 249 8833 This company does not offer a normal cruise but, instead swimming trips to the seals and dolphins as well as scuba diving expeditions to the SoundÕs famous red and black corals. They also offer fishing trips outside Milford Sound.

Sea Kayaking RoscoeÕs Milford Sound Sea Kayaks ☎ (03) 249 8840 An interesting alternative to the usual cruises. Transport is arranged to and from Te Anau.

Mt Aspiring National Park Tramping Routeburn Track: Glenorchy Holiday Park can arrange transport to this track and also Dart-Rees and Greenstone-Caples tracks. They operate the Backpacker Express which also runs from Queenstown ☎ (03) 442 9939.

229

A Matukituki Valley: Matuki Services provide a regular minibus service between Wanaka and the Matukituki Valley ☎ (03) 443 7980. A similar service is offered by Mt Aspiring Express ☎ (03) 443 7414.

Te Anau Boat Trips Te Ana-au Caves Trip Fiordland Travel Lakefront Drive ☎ (03) 249 8900 or 0800 656 501 Departures: daily 2pm & 8.15pm. The trip to the caves takes 21/2 hrs. Sinbad Cruises 15 Fergus Square ☎ (03) 249 7106 Offer a variety of cruises on Lake Te Anau on board their yacht Manuska.

Sea Kayaking Fiordland Wilderness Experiences 66 Quintin Drive ☎ (03) 249 7700 Kayak trips and hire. A fascinating way to explore Milford or Doubtful Sounds.

Scenic Flights Air Fiordland ☎ (03) 249 7505 The flight over Sutherland Falls is well worth it if you cannot do the Milford Track. The flights from Milford (where they have a plane based in summer) are cheaper. Southern Lakes Helicopters ☎ (03) 249 7167

230

Southern Lakes & Fiordland Waterwings Airways Ltd ☎ (03) 249 7405 Their short flight over the Kepler Track is worthwhile. Also flights to Milford, Dusky and Doubtful Sounds.

Wanaka Boat Trips Hovercraft Cruise Wanaka Lake Services The Wharf Departs: regularly for 15-45 min cruises.

Jet Boating Clutha River Jet Wanaka Lake Services The Lakefront ☎ (03) 443 7495

Kayaking Alpine River Guides 99 Ardmore Street ☎ (03) 443 9023 Kayak trips and hire.

Scenic Flights Aspiring Air ☎ (03) 443 7943 Wanaka Aviation ☎ (03) 443 1385

White Water Rafting Edgewater Adventures ☎ (03) 443 8311 Also various other outdoor activities.

A ACCOMMODATION See pages 288 and 300 in the FactFile for the accommodation and restaurant rating guide

Arrowtown New Orleans Hotel-Motel $ 27 Buckingham Street ☎ (03) 442 1745 Small hotel with 7 bedrooms and a bunkhouse.

Glenorchy Glenorchy Holiday Park $ 2 Oban Street ☎ (03) 442 9939 Fax (03) 442 9940 Cabins, tourist flats and tent sites. Transport to all the tracks.

Milford Milford Sound Hotel $$$ ☎ (03) 249 7926 Fax (03) 249 8094 Beautifully situated.

Queenstown Bumbles $ (Backpackers) 2 Brunswick St ☎ (03) 442 6298 Close to middle of town. McFeeÕs Waterfront Hotel $ Shotover Street ☎ (03) 442 7400 Fax (03) 442 7403 Rooms with en suite bathrooms. Adelaide Street Guest House $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 15 Adelaide Street ☎/Fax (03) 442 6207 Cosy atmosphere, good views, 5 minutes to town.

Queenstown Parkroyal $$$ Beach Street ☎ (03) 442 7800 Fax (03) 442 8895 Large hotel with views of the lake and the Remarkables.

Te Anau Lake Te Anau Backpackers Lodge $ 48 Lakefront Drive ☎ (03) 249 7713 Fax (03) 249 8319 Friendly place, central location. Anchorage Motel $$ 47 Quintin Drive ☎ (03 )249 7256 Fax (03) 249 7102 Shakespeare House $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 10 Dusky St ☎ (03) 249 7349 Fax (03) 249 7629 Hearty breakfasts served here.

Wanaka Matterhorn South Lodge $ (Backpackers) 56 Brownston St ☎ (03) 443 1119 Fax (03) 443 8379 Small, cosy and central. Te Wanaka Lodge $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 23 Brownston St ☎ (03) 443 9224 Fax (03) 443 9246 Non-smoking, wood fires, pleasant atmosphere.

231

A

Southern Lakes & Fiordland

EATING OUT Queenstown Eichardts Tavern $ (Licensed) The Mall ☎ (03) 442 8369 Light meals and snacks. Avanti Restaurant $$ 20 The Mall (Licensed) ☎ (03) 442 8503 Italian cuisine. Gourmet Express $$ (BYO/Licensed) 62 Shotover Street ☎ (03) 442 9619 Good place for breakfast. Lagos Bar & Cafe $$ (Licensed) Steamer Wharf ☎ (03) 442 5969 Mediterranean-style food. Roaring MegÕs $$$ (Licensed) 57 Shotover St ☎ (03) 442 9676 A New Zealand specialty offered here is mutton bird.

SaguaroÕs Mexican Restaurant $$$ (BYO/Licensed) Trust Bank Arcade, Beach Street ☎ (03) 442 8240 Tasty Tex-Mex food.

Te Anau La Toscana $ (BYO/Licensed) 108 Town Centre ☎ (03) 249 7756 Good pasta and pizza.

Wanaka Relishes $$ (BYO/Licensed) 99 Ardmore Road ☎ (03) 443 9018 One of the better cafes in town. Ripples Restaurant $$ (BYO) Pembroke Mall ☎ (03) 443 7413 Specialities include venison, lamb and seafood.

PLACES TO VISIT Arrowtown Lakes District Centennial Museum Buckingham Street Open: daily 9am-5pm.

Cromwell Cromwell Museum 44 The Mall Open: daily 10am-4pm. 232

Kawarau Gorge Mining Centre In the Kawarau Gorge, 8km west, on SH6 Open: daily .

Queenstown Kiwi & Birdlife Park Base of the Gondola, Brecon Street Open: daily 9am-5pm, during summer until 9pm.

A Queenstown Motor Museum Base of the Gondola. Brecon Street Open: daily 9am-5.30pm. Underwater World On the pier, end of The Mall Open: daily.

Te Anau Te Anau Wildlife Centre On road to Manapouri Open: daily. Admission is free.

Underground Trout Observatory Lakefront Drive Open: daily. Entrance is through a coin-operated turnstile.

Wanaka The Puzzling Place & Great Maze On main highway, just south of Wanaka. Open: daily 8.30am-5.30pm. Entry to Hologram Exhibition is free.

VISITOR INFORMATION & PARK VISITOR CENTRES Fiordland National Park Visitor Centre Lakefront Drive, Te Anau Open: daily. ☎ (03) 249 7921 or (03) 249 8514 Fax (03) 249 8515 (Bookings for independent Milford Track walkers).

Mount Aspiring National Park Visitor Centre Ardmore St, Wanaka Open: Mon-Fri 8am-5pm. ☎ (03) 443 7660

Queenstown Travel & Visitor Centre Ltd Clocktower Centre, Cnr Shotover & Camp Streets, PO Box 253 Open: daily from 7am-7pm (summer). ☎ (03) 442 4100 Fax (03) 442 8907 They also offer complete internet services and will pass on e-mails sent to visitors at their e-mail address: [email protected]. There are several other places in Queenstown which offer

information and take bookings. They include: The Station ☎ 442 5252 opposite the Travel & Visitor Centre; The Backpacking Specialists ☎ 442 8178 at 35 Shotover Street; DaneÕs Queenstown Information Centre ☎ 442 7318 on the corner of Shotover and Camp Streets and the Information & Track Walking Centre ☎ 442 9708 on Shotover Street.

Te Anau Fiordland Travel Ltd, Te Anau Terrace, PO Box 1 ☎ (03) 249 8900 7419 Fax (03) 249 7022 Located in same building as Fiordland Travel which arranges a variety of excursions in the area ☎ (03) 249 7419 or Freephone 0800 656 501.

Wanaka Ardmore Street, PO Box 147 ☎ (03) 443 1233 Fax (03) 443 9238 Shares premises with Mount Aspiring National Park Visitor Centre.

233

THE DEEP SOUTH & OTAGO This chapter covers the region of Southland, including Stewart Island, in the far south of the South Island, and all of Otago except for the lakes district around Queenstown. A natural border to the west is Fiordland National Park, and to the north the Waitaki River. For those coming from Queenstown, the quickest route to Invercargill is on SH6 but a much more interesting alternative is the Southern Scenic Route which starts at Te Anau (see Chapter 9). The section between Invercargill and Dunedin is described in the following pages.

Climate and character Southland and South-East Otago are both areas that are relatively neglected by most visitors to New Zealand, many of whom get no further south than Queenstown or Milford Sound. Admittedly the weather is not as attractive as it is around Marlborough or Nelson (lots of rainy days and the countryÕs 234

lowest mean average temperatures) but the trip is still worth it, especially for those visitors who are interested in New ZealandÕs unique flora and fauna. East of Invercargill, the beautiful CatlinÕs Forest Park shelters many different species of native birds as well as a variety of sea mammals along its rocky coastline. On Stewart Island, nature still seems to reign supreme; there are hardly any roads, only a tiny resident population and

Above: The famous Moeraki boulders at Moeraki

T h e

0

15

S o u t h

30miles

15

&

8

30kms

6

Wanaka 89

Queenstown

6

Li

Lake Dunstan

O t a g o

ass

Kurow Duntroon W

ndi

ki R iv

er 83

8

Bendigo Cromwell

Naseby 85

Oamaru

Ranfurly 85

Moeraki

Dunback

Alexandra

Kingston

94

82 a it a

St Bathans

Clyde

Lake Wakatipu

1

Lake Benmore Lake Aviemore Lake Waitaki

Omarama

Lake Hawea

Lake Wanaka

sP

0

D e e p

Macraes Flat

87

Shag Point

Palmerston

Middlemarch Te Anau

6

Ma

tau

r

aR

Lumsden

i v er

90

Dunedin

Lawrence 8

1

94

Milton

Gore

Balclutha

96 6

99

Invercargill

Fo v e a

u x St

Bluff

ra it

NuggetPoint

Catlins Forest Park

1

Otago Peninsula

Owaka

92

Fortrose Waipapa Point

Papatowai Porpoise Bay

Ruapuke Island

Oban Half Moon Bay

Stewart Island

most of the island is covered by dense forest. If you want to see a kiwi in the wild, Stewart Island may be your best chance. Otago is wedged in between Southland and Canterbury and is separated from the former by the Mataura River which enters the sea east of Invercargill. In general the climate is drier and sunnier than SouthlandÕs, especially in the area of

THE DEEP SOUTH & OTAGO Central Otago which lies in the rain shadow of the Southern Alps. In places like Dunback, St Bathans and Clyde, the romance of the Otago gold rushes still lingers on, whereas the Otago Peninsula awaits visitors with a rich diversity of wildlife and a Scottish baronial hall. Largest city is Dunedin, as proud of its Scottishness as Christchurch is of its Englishness. 235

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

&

O t a g o

¥ ROUTE 12 ¥ THE SOUTHERN SCENIC ROUTE TO DUNEDIN Invercargill Invercargill is a flat, sprawling city (population 52,000) in the far south of the South Island. It is the southernmost city in New Zealand and one of the southernmost settlements of any size in the world. The cityÕs prosperity is based on the fact that it is situated in the midst of some of New ZealandÕs richest pasture lands, where a high but evenly spread annual rainfall allows the year round growth of grass. But to Frederick Tuckett, who came to the South Island in 1844 to survey land for a proposed Scottish settlement, the area seemed distinctly lacking in potential. He described the present city site as Ôa mere bog, and quite unfit for human habitationÕ . The Scots came anyway and today InvercargillÕs Scottish heritage is reflected in the fact that many of its streets are named after Scottish rivers. The main place of interest is the Southland Museum and Art Gallery in Gala Street, near the main entrance to Queens Park. Housed in a building shaped like a large white pyramid, the museum focuses on SouthlandÕs history and natural history. A main attraction is the Tuatara House , where it is possible to see these rare and ancient reptiles in a setting that attempts to reproduce their natural environment as accurately as possible. Also of great interest is the Ô Roaring Forties Experience Õ, an audio-visual that 236

vividly portrays the flora and fauna of New ZealandÕs remote subantartic islands. After visiting the museum a pleasant place to stroll is through the manicured lawns and gardens of Queens Park. Within its spacious confines there are duck ponds, a play ground, a swimming pool and even an 18 hole golf course. Snacks and light lunches are provided by the tea kiosk which is open daily.

Bluff InvercargillÕs port is Bluff, 16 miles (27km) further south. The portÕs main claim to fame is the delicious oysters that are harvested during a

Bluff oysters Oysters fresh from the sea can be sampled from March 1 until August 31, but the highlight of the season is undoubtedly the week-long Bluff Seafood Festival in midApril. Those who wish can visit the oyster sheds during the season to watch skilled workers scooping the delectable molluscs from their shells. Although purists will prefer them raw, the oysters are commonly disguised in a (hopefully) crisp batter and sold by the local take-aways as oysters and chips.

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

limited season from Foveaux Strait and which send New ZealandÕs seafood gourmets into raptures of delight. The pleasures of seafood aside there is not a great deal more to Bluff to distract the attention of visitors eagerly awaiting the departure of the Stewart Island ferry. One ÔsightÕ that is impossible to miss is the rather unattractive industrial complex of the Tiwai Point Aluminium Smelter, just across the water. The smelter is one of the largest in the world and SouthlandÕs largest single employer. A free tour of the complex takes about two hours. Another place of interest is the unique Paua Shell House, a private home decorated with thousands of brightly polished paua (abalone) shells. At Stirling Point (follow SH1 through Bluff, along the coast) there is a restaurant with sea views and the start of a coastal walkway (2 hours). For the best views around, either walk or drive to the top of Bluff Hill (869ft/265m).

Stewart Island Separated from the South Island by Foveaux Strait, Stewart Island is New Zealand as it once was: a thickly forested island where the sound of birds dominates over the sounds of human activity, where roads are less significant than forest tracks and where the light of stars on a clear summer night shine brighter than the modest lights of Oban, the islandÕs only real concession to civilisation. On some clear nights, visitors might even witness the aurora australis , the Ôsouthern lightsÕ,

&

O t a g o

a natural spectacle that perhaps explains the Maori name for Stewart Island which is Rakiura (heavenly glow). If one does not have the luck to see the fantastic shimmering of the southern lights, then a brilliant blood-red Stewart Island sunset should be compensation enough. Roughly the size of Singapore, Stewart Island can only be appreciated in the course of a visit of several days and because there is not much more than 12 miles (20km) of road, the best way to explore the island is on foot, along one of the islandÕs many forest tracks. Day tours from Bluff or Invercargill are possible, but can only be recommended for people who really are in a hurry.

Oban The tiny settlement of Oban on the shores of Halfmoon Bay is the base for all activities on the island. Near the ferry wharf the Visitors Information Centre can provide a list of all the accommodation possibilities as well as information on various walks. Of interest in Oban is the Rakiura Museum with its displays on the Maori and European history of the island and The Fernery, a craft shop and gallery set in a pleasant bush setting at the edge of town.

Stewart Island walks The two main walks on Stewart Island are the Rakiura Track (2-3 days) and the North-West Circuit (8-10 days). The Rakiura is by far the easier of the two and provides a gentle introduction to the islandÕs virgin forests and isolated beaches. Though there are nice beaches along the circuit 237

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

&

O t a g o

Above: No matter what the weather, South Island landscapes can be dramatic

track as well, it can often mean crossing some very rugged and muddy terrain to get to them. Because the first stretch of the track is fairly easy and runs quite close to the coast, many people only go as far as Christmas Village Hut (2-3 days one way) and then return the same way to Oban. Unfortunately, the first few huts along the trail can get very crowded in summer so it might pay to bring a (mosquito-proof) tent. Trampers who want to save themselves some walking on the North-West Circuit can get dropped off at certain points along the coast by water taxi. However, those who have endured the hardships of the entire 74 miles (120km) long track will no doubt feel justified in toasting their effort at ObanÕs only pub with a cold, locally brewed beer. 238

Those who are not so keen on walking could content themselves with some of the shorter tracks around Halfmoon Bay, for instance the 15 minute stroll to Observation Rock, or perhaps take a tour by bus or launch. The scenic minibus tour ( ☎ (03) 219 1269) lasts about an hour and there are daily launch trips to Ulva Island Bird Sanctuary (a paradise for bird-watchers) and the salmon farms in Big Glory Bay . It is also possible to explore Stewart IslandÕs fascinating coastline by sea kayak.

Kiwi spotting One activity that nobody should miss is kiwi spotting. Stewart Island is probably the best place in New Zealand to see kiwis in the wild. The local variety is known as the Stewart

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

Island brown kiwi ( Apteryx australis lawryi ), which is unusual in that it is active during the day as well as at night. Because it is not purely nocturnal and likes to forage on the beaches instead of just in dense bush, it is much easier to see than its North and South Island cousins. Phillip Smith of Bravo Adventure Cruises offers a guided kiwi-spotting tour that includes a twilight boat trip and a short walk through native forest to where kiwi can be seen. Numbers are limited and the trip only takes place on alternate nights, so it is probably necessary to book ahead. Trampers doing either the Rakiura or North-West Circuit tracks also have a good chance of seeing kiwi, as well as penguins and fur seals on the more remote beaches.

Below: Land’s End, Bluff

&

O t a g o

Relax and Enjoy But one does not have to go birdwatching, tramping, fishing or swimming to enjoy Stewart Island. It is a place where one can sit down and do nothing at all Ñ and not feel guilty about it! A quiet evening on the beach enjoying the sunset, a beer and a yarn in the pub with the locals, that might be enough for frayed urban souls desperately seeking to Ôget away from it allÕ.

Back to the Mainland From Invercargill the Southern Scenic Route continues east along SH92 through the Catlins Forest Park to Balclutha and then Dunedin. The more direct route to Dunedin is along SH1, but SH92 is definitely the more picturesque alternative. However, those who like fishing might consider a detour along SH1

239

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

to Gore as the area is famed for its brown trout. Anglers come from around the world to fish the waters of the Mataura River which is claimed to have the highest trout populations and catch rates of any river in New Zealand.

The Catlins Described in tourist brochures as one of ÔNew ZealandÕs best kept secretsÕ, the shaggy bush-covered hills of the Catlins region stretch from Nugget Point in Otago to Waipapa Point in Southland. Protected within the boundaries of the Catlins Forest Park is the largest remaining area of native forest on the east coast of the South Island. Here the southern beech forests reach their southernmost extremity and impressive stands of tall podocarps like totara, rimu, kahikatea and miro fringe the wild, rocky shores of the Catlins coast. Native birds abound (once the ancient Maori hunted the now extinct moa in this region) and ornithologists have registered around 60 different species within the forest park alone. On the coastal rocks it is possible to see fur seals, elephant seals, Hookers sea lion and the rare yellow-eyed penguin ( Megadyptes antipodes ). A trip through the Catlins gives a good idea of what the once densely forested east coast must have looked like before the timber-millers and farmers arrived. After leaving Invercargill along SH92, the countryside is at first very flat and pastoral but it gradually takes on a hillier, more untamed aspect as the Catlins are approached. At Fortrose one has the choice of either following the partly unsealed 240

&

O t a g o

coastal road to Curio Bay (21 miles/ 35km) or of continuing along SH92 (27 miles/44km).

Curio & Porpoise Bays Curio Bay is a beautiful, isolated little spot where the remains of a petrified forest are visible on a rocky platform at low tide. About 160 million years ago the fossilised tree stumps and fallen logs were part of a sub-tropical Jurassic forest. In neighbouring Porpoise Bay it is often possible to see HectorÕs dolphins playing in the surf. As the beach is safe for swimming there is nothing to stop visitors from joining them. For those who want to spend more time in the area there is a camping ground with basic facilities on the Porpoise Bay headland, just above the beach.

Catlins State Forest Park State Highway 92 enters Catlins State Forest Park shortly after the turn-off to Curio Bay. Though the road is now unsealed until near Owaka, it should present no difficulty to motorists if appropriate care is taken. The first worthwhile detour along the way is to Cathedral Caves. This impressive cave system is only accessible at low tide but tide-tables are posted at the start of the dirt access road. From the car park at the end of the road (1 mile/ 2km) it is a 10 minute walk through lovely native forest and then another 10 minute stroll along the beach to the caves.

Scenic walks Between Cathedral Caves and Papatowai are a few interesting

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

scenic walks all of which are signposted from the main road. One track (15 minutes) leads to the splendid sandy beach at Tautuku Bay whereas another nearby leads to the forested shores of Lake Wilkie . The latter walk is really no more than a 10 minute stroll from the road and is especially worthwhile in summer when the rata trees flower red around the small lake.

Papatowai At Papatowai there is a small service station with connected tea-room. Those who stop here for a snack will probably have noticed the large framed photograph on the wall depicting Purakaunui Falls. As the photo suggests, the falls are one of the areaÕs scenic highlights. A few kilometres out of town a signpost points out the 6 mile (10km) detour necessary to get to them. Near the falls, which are reached along a forest path, is a pleasant picnic area with toilet facilities. There are other waterfalls in the vicinity but these ones are certainly the most photogenic. A tip: the best photos are taken in the late morning.

Jacks Bay Blowhole Further north another detour can be made to Jacks Bay Blowhole by following the road along Catlins Lake (actually an extension of the Catlins River) towards the coast. The blowhole lies in the middle of farmland and is connected to the sea by a 656ft (200m) long subterranean tunnel. The plume of sea-water that spurts out of the 196ft (60m) deep hole is at its most impressive at high tide and in stormy weather.

&

O t a g o

However, if the weather is fine there is no need to feel disappointed as the beach at Jacks Bay is one of the finest around.

Owaka Continuing along the main road it is not long before the small settlement of Owaka is reached. This is the main town of the Catlins district and it has all the essential facilities, including a Department of Conservation (DOC) Visitor Centre. This is the place to go for information about walks in the area. Among the more interesting walks is the Catlins River Walk (5 hours), which passes through pretty silver beech forest and can be started from the Tawanui camping area west of Owaka. Another good walk for those interested in the local flora is the Pounawea Nature Walk (45 minutes). It starts from the Pounawea Motor Camp just to the south-east of Owaka. There is a good chance of spotting white-faced herons, pied shags, paradise ducks and other aquatic birds along this loop track.

Nugget Point Wildlife Before finally leaving the Catlins it is well worth making the detour to Nugget Point. Here visitors may see fur seals, elephant seals and the rare HookerÕs sea lion. Shortly before the car park at the road end is another parking spot from where a track lead s down a steep bank to the yelloweyed penguin viewing platform. As it is not permitted to go beyond the platform when the penguins are ashore, it is a good idea to bring a pair of binoculars. Photographers 241

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

&

O t a g o

Above: St Paul's Cathedral and Town Hall, Dunedin Left and below: Larnach Castle, Dunedin

242

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

will need at least a 500mm telephoto lens for a close-up shot of these small birds. Yellow-eyed penguins can usually be observed on-shore after about 3pm. Other sea-birds that may be spotted include little blue penguins, gannets, sooty shearwaters and spotted shags. At the end of the point is a stone lighthouse that was built in 1870. From Nugget Point it is possible to follow the road via Kaka Point and Port Molyneux to Balclutha. This town on the banks of the Clutha River marks the ÔofficialÕ end of the Southern Scenic Route but the remaining distance to Dunedin are not without interest. State Highway 1 continues on from Balclutha via Milton to Dunedin. To the north-west of Milton, near the town of Lawrence, is GabrielÕs Gully.

&

O t a g o

Dunedin Dunedin (pop. 120, 000), the South IslandÕs second largest city after Christchurch, was originally a mainly Scottish settlement and is still often referred to as the ÔEdinburgh of the SouthÕ. Today the cityÕs Scottish roots are most obviously reflected in its name (Dun Edin was the old Gaelic name for Edinburgh), the countryÕs only kilt shop, the large statue of the Scottish bard Robert Burns and, almost inevitably, the only whiskey distillery in New Zealand. A slight rolling or at least burr of the ÔrÕ, that may be heard throughout Southland and Otago, also hints at an ancestry reaching back to the Ôbonny hills of ScotlandÕ.

History

GabrielÕs Gully In 1861 Gabriel Read discovered a rich deposit of gold here and in so doing sparked off the Central Otago gold rushes. Within a couple of months there were over 11,000 prospectors in the district, searching feverishly for a quick fortune in the ground. Today there is still some evidence of the old workings around GabrielÕs Gully and those wishing to know more about the gold rush can visit the small museum in Lawrence which also doubles as the local Information Centre .

The first boatload of Scots arrived at Port Chalmers , DunedinÕs port, in 1848 to take up land that had been bought from the local Maori for about a penny an acre. Though the first settlers were mainly Scottish and Presbyterian by faith, there were also enough Englishmen around to allow some scope for traditional frictions to come to the fore. Job advertisements sometimes carried the line ÔEnglishmen need not applyÕ and the early settlementÕs leader, Captain William Cargill, once directed an English gentleman to go back to Canterbury (a predominantly English settlement) Ôwhere he belongedÕ. In the 1860Õs the Otago gold rushes brought sudden prosperity to the town. They stimulated not only a dramatic increase in population, 243

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

but also provided a firm economic basis for the rapid development of industry and agriculture. For many years Dunedin was the most important manufacturing and commercial city in the country. Legacies of this early wealth are the cityÕs many fine old Victorian buildings and the countryÕs first university and medical school. Though still an important industrial area (heavy engineering), it is in the role of a university town that Dunedin now commands most recognition. The 14,000 or so students have a pervasive influence on the cityÕs day-to-day life, as is reflected in the many student pubs, the cheap cafŽs and the vibrant local arts and entertainments scene.

&

O t a g o

decorative terrace houses from the Victorian period.

Edwardian architecture

At the lower end of Stuart Street, in the direction of the bay, is DunedinÕs Edwardian railway station (1904). Decorated with stained-glass windows and a magnificent mosaic floor, the station foyer vividly reflects the cityÕs early wealth and optimistic belief in a prosperous future. A few of the old steam locomotives that once puffed their way into the station are on display at the Otago Early Settlers Museum in Cumberland Street, a short distance away. The Presbyterian First Church is situated to the north-west of the museum in Moray Place. Dedicated in 1873 it has been described as Ôa Attractions masterpiece of Gothic revivalÕ. The best place to start exploring To the north-west of the Octagon, at 42 Royal Terrace, is Olveston . is from the Octagon, an eight-sided garden area in the heart of the city. Built in 1904-06 as a home for the wealthy businessman David As proud of its Scottish heritage as Dunedin is, it is not surprising to Theomin, its beautifully furnished rooms can be visited in the course of find that the Octagon is presided over by the statue (1887) of Robert an hour-long guided tour. Crammed as it is with valuable antiques Burns, ScotlandÕs national poet. Behind the statue rises St PaulÕs and early New Zealand paintings, Olveston provides a fascinating Anglican Cathedral , which was built of Oamaru stone in 1915. It is insight into the lifestyle of a cultivated turn-of-the-century family. worth a look inside because of the impressive stone vaulted ceiling, The Museum some fine interior woodwork and The Otago Museum can be reached the stained-glass windows. from the Octagon along Great King Located within the recently refurStreet. Especially worth seeing here bished Municipal Chambers (1880) are the excellent southern Maori nearby is the excellent Dunedin and Pacific Island exhibits and Visitor Centre . Also close is the the natural history displays. Of Dunedin Public Art Gallery with a note among the other exhibits is a fine collection of contemporary surprisingly good collection of art New Zealand art. In Stuart Street, and sculpture from classical Greece, just above the Octagon, and not far Rome and the Middle East. A recent from the cathedral, are a number of 244

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

addition to the museum is ÔDiscovery WorldÕ, where working exhibits introduce children and adults alike to the world of science.

The University A little further east of the museum is the University of Otago campus. Founded in 1869, New ZealandÕs oldest university began its life with a roll of only 81 students and a staff of three professors. The original nineteenth century building complex has been retained and is worth taking a stroll around. Particularly photogenic is the turreted clock tower. Guided walking tours are available for those who want to know more about the university and its history.

Taste tours As change from history and architecture, visitors with a penchant for the local beer or whiskey might enjoy taking part in tours of either WilsonÕs Whiskey Distillery or Speights Brewery. Both tours last about 1 1 /2 hours and, most importantly, include a sampling of the wares. On a sweeter note are tours of the Cadbury chocolate factory. Children in particular will enjoy the free samples offered at the end of this one hour tour.

Otago Peninsula When in Dunedin do not leave without making the side trip to Otago Peninsula. Though within easy reach of the city, the peninsula is unique in that it provides a breeding habitat for such rare or seldom seen birds as the royal albatross and yellow-eyed penguin. There is enough to see and do here to keep most

&

O t a g o

visitors occupied for a full day, but at least a half day is necessary for the main attractions. A pleasant circular tour of the peninsula can be made by first following the coast road (Portobello Road) and then Highcliff Road back to Dunedin. Those without private transport can join a bus tour from Dunedin. Contact Newtons Coach Tours ☎ (03) 477 5577.

Royal Albatross As far as the peninsulaÕs natural attractions are concerned, it is the famous royal albatross colony at Taiaroa Head that draws most attention. With a wing-span of over 9ft (3m) the royal albatross ( Diomedea epomophora ) is the worldÕs largest sea-bird. Nowhere else on the globe do they breed so close to human habitation. In fact except for here and a few remote subantarctic islands, they are rarely seen on land as they spend the greater part of their solitary lives gliding over the oceans of the Southern Hemisphere. When they do come ashore it is only to breed. The single egg laid in November hatches in January and by September the young birds are ready to depart the colony. It will be eight to ten years before these birds are ready to breed themselves, but with a life-span of well over 60 years, plenty of time remains to produce offspring.

Albatross tour The albatross colony can only be visited as part of a one hour guided tour which needs to booked in advance at the Dunedin Visitor Centre. A slightly longer tour (1 1 /2 hours) also includes a visit to Fort 245

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

&

O t a g o

New Zealand's KAKAPO (STRIGOPS HABROPTILUS) This nocturnal, flightless parrot is one of the worldÕs rarest birds. When in danger, the kakapo simply stands still and hopes that it will not be noticed. Unfortunately, behaviour of this kind is of no help against introduced predators such as cats and weasels. Today the kakapo is virtually extinct on the mainland and only a few breeding pairs are found in Fiordland and on Stewart Island. Attempts are being made to resettle the bird on small off-shore islands that are free of predators. The current population of kakapos stands at around 50.

KIWI (APTERYGIDAE) New ZealandÕs national bird is nocturnal and rarely seen in the wild. To say that it is unique is something of an understatement. Its feathers resemble hair, it lays an egg that in relation to its size is disproportionately large (it weighs 1lb, 450g ) and has, for a bird, an excellent sense of smell. The kiwiÕs nostrils are situated at the tip of its long bill (also unusual for a bird) and this no doubt helps it in its search for insects and worms on the forest floor. There are three species of kiwi: the brown kiwi (Apteryx australis), the great spotted kiwi (A. haasti) and the little spotted kiwi (A. oweni). The kiwi is found only in New Zealand. Kiwi Bird

246

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

&

O t a g o

Flightless Birds

The flightless Weka has a penchant for shiny objects and will steal anything left lying about

MOA (DINORNITHIFORMES) There were many different species of moa, ranging in size from relatively small forest-dwelling birds to huge ostrich-like giants around 10ft (3m) tall and weighing up to 507 pounds (230kg). Though known to the early Maori, the giant moa (Euryapteryx gravis) became extinct long before the arrival of the first Europeans. However, it is believed that at least a few of the smaller species survived into the early nineteenth century.

TAKAHE (NOTORNIS MANTELLI) The takahe was believed to be extinct for many years until its rediscovery in 1948. It is a member of the rail family and is powerfully built with bright blue and green plumage. The introduction of deer, which eat the same plants as the takahe, are thought to be the main reason for the birds declining numbers. Today the takahe is only found in the Murchison Mountains of Fiordland National Park. The present population consists of around 200 birds.

WEKA (GALLIRALLUS AUSTRALIS) Wekas are neither shy nor endangered and are often seen by trampers in New ZealandÕs national and forest parks. The birds, which are about the same size as a chicken, have a predominantly brown colouring and are omnivorous. Like the kea parrot, the weka has a weakness for shiny objects and will run off with anything that is left lying around. 247

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

Taiaroa where the main attraction is a historic Armstrong Ôdisappearing gunÕ. Placed on the headland in 1888 to counter a feared Russian invasion (which did not eventuate), the gun was only raised above ground when it was ready to fire.

Penguins From the albatross colony follow the signs to get to Penguin Place, a privately run conservation reserve. The best chance of viewing the yellow-eyed penguins that breed here is during the last few hours of daylight when the birds come ashore to their nests. Apart from the penguins it is also possible to see a fur seal colony.

Penguin tour Tours of the penguin colony start from McGroutherÕs Farm, at Penguin Place, on a daily basis throughout the season (October to August). A longer tour (8 hours) also includes a visit to the ornithological section of Otago Museum, the albatross colony and other points of related interest around the peninsula. It starts from and can be booked through, the Dunedin Visitor Centre. Participants may be interested to know that the penguin reserve is funded entirely through profits gained from these tours.

Lanarch Castle On the way back to Dunedin it is well worth making the short detour off Highcliff Road to see Lanarch Castle. New ZealandÕs only ÔcastleÕ was built by William Lanarch, a wealthy financier and politician, for what was then the immense sum of £125,000. Construction began in 248

&

O t a g o

1871, but in spite of the fact that 200 labourers were working on the house, it took five years before the family could move in. The entire building was constructed using only the very best materials available and Lanarch did not even shy from the expense of importing European craftsmen to do some of the interior work. Outstanding features of the house include the hanging staircase with a handrail carved from solid kauri, the beautifully carved foyer ceiling and the huge ballroom.

Other attractions Other attractions on the peninsula include Glenfalloch Gardens , which are at their most attractive from

The Taieri Gorge Railway Of DunedinÕs many attractions, the trip on the Taieri Gorge Railway is something quite special. One of New ZealandÕs great train journeys, this 4 hour return trip from Dunedin to Pukerangi goes through rugged, spectacular scenery that cannot be seen from the road. There are two or three photo stops along the way and refreshments are available on board. At certain times of the year, a longer version of this trip (51/2 hours) is offered to Middlemarch, 51 miles (83kms) north-west of Dunedin on SH87.

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

September to October, and the Trust Bank Aquarium which features local marine life as well as a tuatara. Saturday is feeding day at the aquarium and visitors are welcome to help feed the fish. Both attractions are clearly signposted from Portobello Road.

Moving on From Dunedin SH1 continues north to Palmerston where the visitor is presented with two alternatives:

&

O t a g o

either follow SH1 further north to Oamaru and then turn inland along the Waitaki River to Omarama or follow SH85 north-west through Central Otago and then continue north over the Lindis Pass to Omarama. Both routes have their scenic attractions but the drive through the Lindis Valley is particularly beautiful. From Omarama it is not far to Mount Cook National Park and the lakes of southern Canterbury.

¥ ROUTE 13 ¥ OAMARU AND THE WAIT AKI VALLEY The Coast Section Shag Point Like Taiaroa Head and Penguin Place on the Otago Peninsula, Shag Point, just over 5 miles (8km) north of Palmerston, is a great place for anybody interested in wildlife. Though aptly named for the hundreds of shags that perch on the rocky islets off-shore, it is the large colony of fur seals and a small yellow-eyed penguin colony that attract most visitors here. It is possible to venture quite close to the fur seals while they bask on the rocks but visitors should not attempt to get close views of the penguins as they are easily disturbed.

Moeraki boulders Further up the coast, near the fishing village of Moeraki , are the famous Moeraki boulders. Strewn like giant marbles across the sand of Hampden Beach, the spherical boulders are not

in fact the product of erosion but of a natural chemical process. They were formed some 60 million years ago by the gradual accumulation of lime salts around a central lime crystal core. These septarian concretions, as geologists prefer to call them, gradually appear from the cliffs behind the beach as the soft mudstone in which they are embedded is eroded away by the sea. Some of the concretions are over 13ft (4m) in circumference and weigh several tons. In a strategic position near the boulders is a large, reasonably priced restaurant with excellent views over the sea.

Oamaru Next stop on the coast is Oamaru. Though the town lacks the Mediterranean flair of art deco Napier, it too can boast some of the countryÕs most interesting architecture. OamaruÕs historic buildings generally reflect the classical styles favoured throughout New Zealand 249

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

during the nineteenth century. What makes them distinctive however, is the widespread use of local limestone; a material that is soft enough to be quarried with a circular saw but which gradually hardens when exposed to air. Many of these old limestone buildings are to be found in the Tyne-Harbour Street Historic Precinct, the only complete example of a nineteenth century commercial area in New Zealand. Some of the noble old premises are at present a bit dilapidated, but a restoration scheme is under way that will hopefully return them to their former grandeur in the not-toodistant future. On holiday weekends a steam train runs through the Historic Precinct to provide that extra touch of nostalgia (check at the Information Centre for details). Within walking distance of the Historic Precinct and downtown Oamaru is, surprisingly enough, a blue penguin colony. The worldÕs smallest penguins have built their nests around the Harbour area and a section of foreshore has been set aside as a refuge for them. From the viewing platforms at the end of Waterfront Road , the dapper little birds can be seen just after dusk as they return from a dayÕs fishing at sea. The yellow-eyed penguin site at Bushey Beach can be reached by following Graves Walkway (2 hours return) from the blue penguin colony.

Inland Those in a hurry to get north might prefer to travel directly from Oamaru to Christchurch on SH1, but a much more scenic alternative is 250

&

O t a g o

to follow SH83 inland along the Waitaki Valley to Omarama. En route the road passes lakes Waitaki , Aviemore and Benmore, all of which were created as part of a major hydro-electric scheme on the Waitaki River. Well stocked with trout and salmon, the lakes are as popular with anglers as they are with water sport enthusiasts. Worth a brief stop is the small settlement of Duntroon . In town the historic blacksmith shop can be visited whereas a short distance outside town, in the direction of Kurow, there are some Maori rock drawings to be seen. Signposted from the main road the Takiroa Rock Drawings were probably executed by pre-European Maori between 1000 and 1500 AD. Another 12 miles (20km) away, Kurow is the starting point for jet boat trips on the Waitaki River.

Omarama Omarama, on the fringe of the Mackenzie country, has a wide reputation for gliding due to favourable thermal air currents in the locality. There is plenty of accommodation in town and a reason for visitors to stay longer is the rare opportunity of going on a scenic flight with a glider ☎ (03) 438 9621. Not to be missed if the weather is right are the beautiful Clay Cliffs . In certain light-conditions, the bizarrely eroded cliffs can display a remarkable range of colours, giving them an almost surreal atmosphere. The Clay Cliffs are signposted from SH8 on the way to Lindis Pass but an organised tour ☎ (03) 438 9428 can be arranged for those without transport.

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

&

O t a g o

Above: A fur seal at Shag Point Right:

Fossilised tree trunk at Curio Bay, Catlins

Below: High rainfall in parts of South Island has enabled the growth of dense rainforests and, with the advent of man, lush pasturelands

251

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

&

O t a g o

¥ ROUTE 13A ¥ THE GOLDFIELDS ROUTE (PIGROOT) TO LINDIS PASS & OMAR AMA The Pigroot was the route to the goldfields of Central Otago, a route now followed by SH85 as it winds its way from Palmerston towards Ranfurly on the Maniototo Plains. Some claim that the name for the route described the early roadÕs bad condition, whereas others claim that it derives from the name given to a hill by a certain John Thomson who was surveying the locality in the 1850Õs. Thompson, a man with a marked fondness for naming geographical locations after farmyard animals, is supposed to have chanced upon a tame wild boar and commemorated the event by naming the hill on which he found it ÔPigroot HillÕ. The tiny settlement of Dunback is situated just over 6 miles (10kms) north-west of Palmerston. To the north of town a turn-off to the left leads to Macraes Flat , the site of a modern gold mine as well as the historic Golden Point Mining Battery . Tours of the gold mine can be arranged from StanleyÕs Hotel ☎/Fax (03) 465 2400, a century-old pub at Macraes Flat.This small hotel offers inexpensive lodgings and, in summer, guests have access to tennis courts, a swimming pool and gymnastic equipment.

Ranfurly From Dunstan the road continues over the Horse Range before eventually descending to the Maniototo Plains and Ranfurly, the largest town 252

(pop. 994) in the area. There is not a lot to Ranfurly other than a railway station and of course a pub. For tourists the most interesting fact about the place is that it is centrally located and makes a useful base for visits to the gold-mining towns of Naseby and St Bathans.

Naseby Naseby lies to the north of Ranfurly. Once the largest gold-mining town on the Maniototo, it is now a sleepy little place with only a few old buildings left to conjure up an impression of the wild gold rush days. Worth visiting is the Maniototo Early Settlers Museum as well as the old watchmakerÕs shop to which it is connected. In winter the local ice rink is popular among followers of the sport of curling. The unsealed road that heads north-west from town leads past the Kyeburn Diggings, where miners gouged away the cliffs in a fevered search for gold, to the historic Dansey Pass Hotel. Built in the 1880Õs to serve the goldminers, the hotel still offers food and accommodation in the remotest of surroundings. Continuing on from Dansey Pass, it is another 29 miles (48km) to Duntroon and the Waitaki Valley (see Route 13).

St Bathans About 24 miles (40km) further west of Naseby, on a loop road off SH85,

T h e

D e e p

S o u t h

is the former gold-mining township of St Bathans. Strung along the main street are a number of buildings that date from the nineteenth century gold rushes. In those days the town had a loud, hard-drinking community of 2000 miners who were catered for by no less than thirteen pubs. Of these only the Vulcan Hotel (1869) has survived but it has no trouble catering to the needs of St BathanÕs present population of around twenty. Blue Lake, a popular picnic spot close to town, was formed by miners sluicing for gold.

Alexandra Continuing along SH85 from Ranfurly it is another 54 miles (88km) to Alexandra. Located in what is now a rich fruit growing region, Alexandra was also a mecca for those smitten by gold fever. Thousands of diggers flocked to work the nearby Dunstan Fields but this rush proved short lived and it was not until the gold dredging boom of the 1890Õs that the town was really able to prosper. More information on gold dredging is available at the Sir William Bodkin Museum on the corner of Thompson and Walton streets. An excellent viewpoint over Alexandra, from where the old dredge tailings are clearly visible, can be reached by turning off Tarbert Street at the north-east end of town and then following Little Valley Road to the top of Tucker Hill. It is also worth stopping in at the Information Centre as they have plenty of tips on other things to see and do in the region. They take bookings for four-wheel-drive safaris into the Dunstan Mountains

&

O t a g o

and O ld Man Range, trips definitely worth considering if you want see the more remote areas of Central Otago. They also have an excellent collection of brochures detailing walks or cycle tours for those who prefer to explore under their own steam.

Clyde Only a short distance up the road from Alexandra is Clyde. The many stone buildings that still line ClydeÕs streets are reminders of the days when the town was in the middle of the Dunstan Gold-rush (1863). Located in the stone courthouse of 1864 is the Courthouse Museum . It mainly concentrates on the history of the early goldfields whereas the Briar Herb Factory nearby displays historic herb processing machinery and has exhibits illustrating the pioneering days in general. Those who want to enjoy a good meal in historical surroundings should try OliverÕs Restaurant. It is housed in what used to be a general store that served the gold miners. From Clyde, SH8 follows the shores of Lake Dunstan, by-passing Cromwell (see Chapter 9) on its journey northwards to Lindis Pass and the lakes of South Canterbury. Near the northern end of Lake Dunstan a loop road leaves the main highway and leads to the ghost town of Bendigo. All that remains of this old quartz-mining town are a few ruined stone dwellings and the vague sense of melancholy that clings to such places. Logantown and Welshtown , also ghost towns, are in the near vicinity. Take extreme care when exploring as there are many unmarked mine shafts in the area. 253

A

The Lindis Pass

The Lindis Pass links Central Otago to the Mackenzie Country and Mount Cook, and provides a magnificent exit from the region. The drive over the pass to Omarama is especially beautiful in the late afternoon when the tussock-covered hills glow in subtle hues of gold Right: An historic watchmaker's shop, Naseby

Below: Pub at Naseby

254

and bronze. The effect can be overwhelming; on some clear days it is as though the entire landscape is bathed in an enchanted, almost otherworldly light, so intense are the colours. Painters and photographers will love this route. From Omarama it is less than 62 miles (100km) to the start of Route 14 at Mount Cook .

The Deep South & Otago

ACTIVITIES

A

Alexandra

Otago Peninsula

Jet Boating

Nature Tours

Riverside Hostel ☎ (03) 448 8152

Kayaking/Canoeing Central Outdoor Adventures ☎ (03) 448 6360 Rentals, guided trips and also mountain bike hire.

Catlins Nature Tours

Penguin Place Yellow-Eyed Penguin Colony Off Portobello Road There is a short 11/2 hour tour and a very informative 7 hour tour. For more details and times contact the Dunedin Visitor Centre or the Yellow-Eyed Penguin Conservation Reserve ☎ (03) 478 0286.

Catlins Wildlife Trackers PO Box 2192, Dunedin (or c/o Dunedin Visitor Centre) ☎ (03) 455 2681 Depart Dunedin for 2 day safaris through the Catlins.

Royal Albatross Colony Taiaroa Head Open: guided tours daily of one hourÕs duration (Closed 16 September to 24 November). Prior bookings necessary. Contact Dunedin Visitor Centre.

Dunedin

Stewart Island

Boat Trips

Boat Trips

Monarch Cruises Cnr Wharf & Fryatt Streets, PO Box 102 ☎ (03) 477 4276 Otago Harbour cruises and wildlife cruises.

Moana Charters ☎ (03) 219 1202 Offer half-day cruises to Ulva Island and salmon farms as do several other operators (contact DOC office for more addresses).

Train Trips

Kayaking/Canoeing

Taieri Gorge Railway Dunedin Railway Station PO Box 140 ☎ (03) 477 4449 A memorable 4 hour journey. Timetables are available from Dunedin Visitor Centre.

InneÕs Backpackers Argyle Street, PO Box 32 ☎/Fax (03) 219 1080 Rentals and guided tours. Also accommodation. For other kayaking possibilities contact the Visitor Centre.

Kurow

Nature Tours

Jet Boating Waitaki Jets & Tours Liverpool Street ☎ (03) 436 0778

Bravo Adventure Cruises PO Box 104, ☎ (03) 219 1144 Offer guided kiwi spotting. Includes boat cruise. Bookings recommended.

255

A Thorfinn Charters PO Box 43, Halfmoon Bay ☎ (03) 219 1210 Guided bird watching and nature walks.

The Deep South & Otago Tramping Stewart Island Water Taxi ☎ (03) 219 1394 Drops trampers off at various points along coast. Several other operators offer the same service. Contact DOC office.

ACCOMMODATION See pages 288 and 300 in the FactFile for the accommodation and restaurant rating guide

Alexandra Alexandra Holiday Park $ Manuherikia Road ☎ (03) 448 8297 Fax (03) 448 8294 Tent sites and cabins. Near a river. The Willows $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 3 Young Lane ☎ (03) 449 2231

Clyde Dunstan Hotel $ 35 Sunderland Street ☎ (03) 449 2817 In the middle of town. OliverÕs Lodge $$$ 34 Sunderland Street ☎ (03) 449 2860 Fax (03) 449 2862 This complex of buildings from the gold mining era has been restored with great originality.

Dunedin Elm Lodge $ (Backpackers) 74 Elm Row ☎ (03) 474 1872 Central location, non-smoking, good views. 256

Law Courts Hotel $$ Cnr Stuart & Cumberland Sts ☎/Fax (03) 477 8036 Art Deco building with Cobb & Co. restaurant. Central location. Sahara Guest House $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 619 George Street ☎ (03) 477 6662 Fax (03) 479 2551 Gabled brick house built in 1906. Central location. Quality Inn $$$ Upper Moray Place ☎ (03) 477 6784 Fax (03) 474 0115

Invercargill Southern Comfort Backpackers $ 30 Thomson Street ☎ (03) 218 3838 Housed in a wonderful old villa this is one of the best backpackers in the South Island. Non-smoking, free use of bikes around town. CoachmanÕs Inn $$ 705 Tay Street ☎ (03) 217 6046 Fax (03) 217 6045 Also cheap cabins.

A Montecillo Lodge $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 240 Spey Street ☎ (03) 218 2503 Fax (03) 218 2506 Quiet location close to City Centre. Some non-smoking rooms.

Oamaru Anne Mieke Guest House $ (Bed & Breakfast) 47 Tees Street ☎/Fax (03) 434 8051 Non-smoking, sea views, close to penguin colony. Swaggers Backpackers $ 25 Wansbeck Street ☎ (03) 434 9999 Cosy hostel with a central location. Sea views from most rooms.

Oban (Stewart Island) AnnÕs Place $ (Backpackers) Halfmoon Bay PO Box 103 ☎ (03) 219 1065 South Sea Hotel $$ Elgin Terrace ☎ (03) 219 1059 Fax (03)219 1120

Omarama Buscot Station $ SH8, 5 miles (8km) north of Omarama ☎ (03) 438 9646 Fax (03) 438 9427 Stay in an original homestead on a merino sheep and cattle station. Closed 15 May to 15 August.

Killermont Station $ SH8, 8 miles (13km) west of Omarama ☎ (03) 438 9864 Fax (03) 438 9866 A 12,000 acre (5,000 hectares) high country station running merino sheep and deer. Close to Ahuriri River, famous for its trout fishing. Closed June, July, August. Omarama Hotel $ Main Road ☎ (03) 438 9713 Comfortable rooms.

Owaka (Catlins) Pounawea Motor Camp $ On Catlins Estuary ☎ (03) 415 8483

Tokanui PopeÕs Place $ (Catlins) Slope Point Road Haldene ☎/Fax (03) 246 8420 This farmstay (sheep farm) also provides room for tents and campervans.

Waikawa (Catlins) Waikawa Holiday Lodge $ Waikawa-Niagra Road ☎ (03) 246 8552 Fax (03) 246 8895

257

A

258

Cathedral Caves, Catlins

The Deep South & Otago

A

EATING OUT Alexandra Dandelion Wine Bar $ 12 Limerick Street ☎ (03) 448 8704 Light meals, live entertainment Sundays. Fruitlands Gallery $ SH8 8 miles (13km) south of Alexandra ☎ (03) 449 2192 Light lunches.

Clyde OliverÕs Restaurant $$$ 34 Sunderland Street ☎ (03) 449 2860 Great food, stylish surroundings.

Dunedin Mega Bite $ 388 George Street ☎ (03) 477 7343 Light meals. StewartÕs Coffee House $ 12 Lower Octagon ☎ (03) 477 6687 Best coffee in town.

The Terrace CafŽ $$ 118 Moray Place ☎ (03) 474 0686 Casual dining in pleasant surroundings. Bell Pepper Blues $$$ 474 Princes Street ☎ (03) 474 0973 The venison dishes are recommended.

Invercargill Zookeepers CafŽ $ 50 Tay Street ☎ (03) 218 3373 Open until late. GerrardÕs $$$ 3 Leven Street ☎ (03) 218 3406 One of the best in town.

Oamaru The Last Post $$ 12 Thames Street ☎ (03) 434 8080 Located in an old post office.

PLACES TO VISIT Alexandra Alexandra Museum (Sir William Bodkin Museum) Walton Street Open: by arrangement, contact Visitor Information.

Bluff Paua House Cnr Marine Parade & Henderson St Open: 9am-5pm daily.

Tiwai Point Aluminium Smelter Open: guided tours Mon-Fri at 10am. Bookings essential. Minimum age is 12. ☎ (03) 218 5999

Clyde The Clyde Historical Museums (Dunstan Courthouse & Briar Herb Factory) Open: Tue-Sun 2-4pm.

259

A

Dunedin Cadbury Confectionery Ltd (chocolate factory) 280 Cumberland Street Open: guided tours. Bookings essential. ☎ (03) 474 1126 Dunedin Public Art Gallery Octagon Open: daily 10am-4.30pm. Lanarch Castle (Otago Peninsula) Open: daily 9am-5pm. Olveston 42 Royal Terrace Open: Guided tours (1 hr) daily at 9.30am, 10.45am, 12pm, 1.30pm, 2.45pm & 4pm. Otago Early Settlers Museum 220 Cumberland Street Open: Mon-Fri 10am-5pm, weekends 1-5pm. Otago Museum 419 Great King Street Open: Mon-Fri 10am-5pm, weekends 1-5pm. Penguin Place Off Portobello Road Otago Peninsula Royal Albatross Colony Taiaroa Head Otago Peninsula Speights Brewery Rattray Street Open: guided tours (1hr 45min) at 10.30am Mon-Thurs. Bookings essential ☎ (03) 477 9480 Trust Bank Aquarium Portobello (Otago Peninsula) Open: daily 1 Dec-1 March 12noon-4.30pm.

260

The Deep South & Otago University of Otago Open: for guided walking tours contact Dunedin Visitor Centre. Wilson Distillers (whiskey distillery) Open: guided tours, book at Dunedin Visitor Centre.

Invercargill Southland Museum & Art Gallery Gala Street, Queens Park Open: Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, weekends 1-5pm.

Lawrence Goldfields Museum Ross Place Open: daily 10am-4pm.

Macraes Flat Macraes Gold Mine Open: guided tours weekends and public holidays at 1.30pm (May-Aug, first weekend in month only). Contact Stanleys Hotel, Macraes Flat ☎ (03) 465 2400

Naseby Maniototo Early Settlers Museum Open: Nov-April daily (except Mon) 1.30-3.30pm.

Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony Oamaru Harbour Open: Sept-March, evenings. Tyne-Harbour Street Historic Precinct Open: Guided tours of OamaruÕs historic buildings can be arranged by contacting the Visitor Information Centre.

A Oban (Stewart Island) Rakiura Museum Ayr Street Open: Tues & Thurs 10am-noon; Mon, Wed & Fri 10am-2pm; Sat 11am-noon and Sun 1-2.30pm.

Roaring Forties Brewery Open: tours on request ☎ (03) 219 1269. Southernmost brewery in the world. The Fernery 440yds (400m) from Post Office Open: ☎ (03) 219 1453

REGIONAL TRANSPORT Stewart Island

Boat

Air

The Foveaux Express (catamaran) departs Bluff (summer season) Mon-Fri 9.30am & 5pm, Sun 5pm. Winter sailings (21 May-23 Aug) Mon, Wed, Fri & Sun. Trip takes 60 minutes but please note that the crossing can be very rough ☎ (03) 212 7660.

There are daily flights to Stewart Island from Invercargill with Southern Air ☎ (03) 218 9129. Flying standby could be cheaper than the ferry Ñ check current rates beforehand!

VISITOR INFORMATION & PARK VISITOR CENTRES Alexandra

Lawrence

Central Otago Visitor Information Centre 22 Centennial Ave, PO Box 56 ☎ (03) 448 9515 Fax (03) 448 9516

17 Ross Place ☎ (03) 485 9222

Oamaru

DOC Visitor Centre Cnr Ryley & Campbell Sts, Owaka ☎ (03) 415 8341

Cnr Thames & Itchen Sts, Private Bag 50058 Open: Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, weekends 10am-5pm. ☎ (03) 434 1656 Fax (03) 434 1657

Dunedin

Omarama

48 The Octagon, PO Box 5457 Open: Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm, weekends 9am-5pm. ☎ (03) 474 3300 Fax (03) 474 3311

On SH83 ☎ (03) 438 9808

Catlins

Invercargill Victoria Avenue, PO Box 1012 Open: Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, weekends 1-5pm. ☎/Fax (03) 218 9753

Stewart Island DOC Visitor Centre Main Road, Half Moon Bay, PO Box 3 ☎ (03) 219 1218 Fax (03) 219 1555

261

CANTERBURY This region features two dramatically different landscapes: the broad flat expanse of the Canterbury Plains and the alpine majesty of the Southern Alps. The main city is Christchurch, which has a distinctly English flavour; and to the south-east is lovely Banks Peninsula and the old French settlement of Akaroa. Here baguette and wine hold a slight edge over tea and scones. The Alps form the regionÕs western boundary and are best explored in the vicinity of Mount Cook and ArthurÕs Pass National Parks, both areas of stunning natural beauty.

¥ ROUTE 14 ¥ MOUNT COOK TO CHRISTCHUR CH Mount Cook Village can be reached by bus or plane from Christchurch or Queenstown. For those driving from Christchurch, the quickest route (around 5 hours) is to follow SH1 south via Ashburton and then turn off onto SH79 via Fairlie 262

and lakes Tekapo and Pukaki. More scenic however, is the route along state highways 79 and 72 as described here from Mount Cook. From Omarama at the end of Route 13 it is not much more than an hourÕs drive.

Above: Several spectacular train journeys start from Christchurch

C a n t e r b u r y

Mount Cook National Park Mount Cook National Park is part of the World Heritage Area (see also Westland National Park, Chapter 8 and Mount Aspiring and Fiordland National Parks, Chapter 9) and protects some of the most spectacular alpine scenery in the Southern Alps. Within the parkÕs boundaries are five major glaciers and more than 140 peaks over 6,560ft (2000m). But rising above them all, at a height of 12,313ft (3,753m) is Mt Cook , the highest mountain not only in New Zealand, but in all of Australasia. Only a few years ago Mt Cook was even higher, but in December 1991 a gigantic landslide removed more than 32ft (10m) from the peak. The mountain acquired its European name in 1851, when the captain of a survey ship named it after the explorer Captain James Cook. However, to the Maori it has long been known as Aoraki , after a figure in Maori mythology whose name translates as Ôcloud in the skyÕ.

Walks from Mt Cook Village In spite of the rugged alpine character of the park there are a number of short walks in the vicinity of Mount Cook Village that can be undertaken by most people. Starting from the Hermitage Hotel are the Hooker Valley (4 hours), Kea Point (3 hours) and Sealy Tarns (4 hours) walks. The popular Hooker Valley walk leads to a lake at the terminal face of Hooker Glacier whereas both the Kea Point and Sealy Tarns walks

impress with dramatic views of glaciers and mountain peaks. An added attraction of the Sealy Tarns track is the abundance of alpine flowers in summer. The most famous of these flowers is the Mount Cook lily, the worldÕs largest buttercup. Keep an eye out also for keas, New ZealandÕs mountain parrot.

Longer excursions Full day or overnight trips in the park are generally restricted to those with mountaineering experience, but the tracks to Mueller and Hooker huts can be attempted by the fit and properly equipped. Anybody doing an overnight trip should inquire first at the Visitor Centre as to the degree of difficulty and make sure they sign the park intentions book. Note that the Copland Pass Track over the Alps is definitely not for the inexperienced.

Glaciers From the end of the Tasman Valley Road there is a track along the side of the mighty Tasman Glacier to Ball Shelter. With a length of 16 miles (27km) this glacier is the longest in New Zealand and one of the largest anywhere in the world outside the polar regions. Though walking the track allows some excellent views of the glacierÕs lower reaches, it is only by taking a scenic flight that one can appreciate its beauty to the fullest. Some of these flights include a landing on the glacier whereas others also take in 263

C a n t e r b u r y

Fox and Franz Josef glaciers in neighbouring Westland National Park. Those who want to combine a scenic flight with a bit of adventure can ski the Tasman. This all-day tour is an unforgettable experience and one does not need to be a champion skier to take part. However the more sedentary among us need not fear: it is neither necessary to walk, climb or fly to get a wonderful view of mountain scenery. All one needs is a seat in the air-conditioned comfort of the Hermitage HotelÕs Panorama Room. The vista of snow-capped peaks, including Mt Cook, that greets the eye through generously proportioned windows, is perhaps compensation enough for the rather expensive menu they set before you.

Where to stay Accommodation within Mount Cook Village is provided by the luxury Hermitage Hotel, the slightly cheaper Mount Cook Travelodge, Mount Cook Chalets and the Mount Cook Youth Hostel. Cabins, camping and caravan sites are provided at the Glentanner Park motor camp, about 12 miles (20km) from the village on the shores of Lake Pukaki. Heliskiing trips also start from here. Cheapest of all is the White Horse Hill camping area, to the north of the village, where the facilities are accordingly basic; running water and toilets but no electricity or showers.

Twizel Twizel is located about 35 miles (58km) south of Mount Cook Village and offers itself as an alter264

native place to stay. Built in 1968 as a base town for the Upper Waitaki Hydro-electric Power Development Scheme, Twizel would have been bulldozed once work was completed were it not for the tourist potential of the area and the tenacity of the residents who wanted to remain. Close to town are lakes Pukaki, Ohau, Ruataniwha and Benmore. Apart from the fishing and water sport activities that these lakes provide, there is also a unique attraction in the form of a black stilt breeding farm 5 1 /2 miles (3km) south of town.

Black stilts The black stilt has the unfortunate reputation of being the worldÕs rarest wading bird Ñ there are only around 70 of them living in the wild. Visitors can observe stilts in the rearing aviaries from a specially constructed viewing hide.

Mackenzie Country The tussock-covered plains of which Twizel marks the heart, are popularly known as the Mackenzie Country. The region is named after the legendary sheep thief James McKenzie, who was caught with a large flock of stolen sheep on the fringes of the basin that now bears his name. McKenzie was accused of stealing the sheep from a run near Timaru in March 1855, a charge which he denied. Though convicted of the crime he always proclaimed his innocence and he was eventually pardoned in 1856. The current theory is that McKenzie may really

C a n t e r b u r y

have been innocent but, whatever the truth may be, the mystique of this man (about whom little is known) continues to live on as part of the countryÕs folklore.

Lake Tekapo Still within the Mackenzie Country and just over 31 miles (50km) northeast of Twizel, is beautiful Lake Tekapo . The waters of this glacial lake have an exquisite turquoise colouring that contrasts magnificently with the bronzed, almost treeless, surroundings. This unique colouring is produced by rocks that have been ground to a fine powder by glacial action and which now hang suspended, as Ôrock flourÕ, in the water. Though the water looks inviting, the lake is as chilly as the glaciers that feed it, so a swim is something only the bold should attempt. The township of Lake Tekapo is located at the lakeÕs southern end. On the lake shore a short distance from town is the Church of the Good Shepherd, a simple stone building that was erected as a memorial to the pioneer runholders of the Mackenzie. Not far away is the bronze statue of a sheepdog, a fitting tribute to an animal which played, and continues to play, an indispensable role in the grazing of the high-country. Although the desolate beauty of the scenery which surrounds the lake can be enjoyed for free, it is nevertheless worth considering spending a dollar or two on the scenic flights which start from here. The ÔGrand TraverseÕ offered by Air Safaris is a 50 minute scenic flight around Mount Cook and Westland

National Parks which takes in Franz Josef, Fox and Tasman Glaciers.The same company also offers roughly the same tour from Glentanner Park, near Mount Cook. In any case, these flights are great value for money and a bit cheaper than those offered by other airlines at Mount Cook. From Tekapo, SH8 curves its way eastwards through vast tussock grasslands until, at Burke Pass, the wide-open spaces of the Mackenzie are abruptly left behind for an altogether gentler landscape. The rolling downs on which towns like Fairlie and Geraldine are situated are a first hint of the Canterbury Plains, one of the most prosperous farming regions in New Zealand.

Moving on Fairlie, the ÔGateway to the MackenzieÕ for those coming from Timaru or Christchurch, is noted for its pretty tree-lined avenues and makes a good base in winter for those skiing at either Fox Peak or Mount Dobson in the Two Thumb Range. If time is pressing it is probably best to leave Fairlie on SH8 for Timaru and then follow SH1 directly to Christchurch through the middle of the Canterbury Plains . However a more scenic and leisurely alternative is to follow state highways 79 and 72 via Geraldine and Mount Hutt.

Geraldine Geraldine is a nice little town with a few interesting things to see and do in the vicinity. About 12 miles (20km) north of town is Peel Forest Park, one of the few remaining stands of native forest in the area. 265

C a n t e r b u r y

Snowboarding, Mount Hutt, Canterbury

Banks Peninsula Akaroa Lighthouse

To

Pegasus Bay

ik Ka

ou

Akaroa Akaroa Harbour

ra

Littelton Harbour

1

Christchurch

Littelton

Lake Forsyth

75

CANTERBURY

7

he

rn

Al

Oxford

ps

Tr

an z

30km

0

re s n e Exp Al p i

to Greymouth

Ri

ve

Sheffield Springfield

Arthur's Pass National Park

30miles

0

73

r

Sout

Lake Ellesmere

Rangiora

s

72

Ra

ka

ia

Ashburton

Methven Mount Hutt

Otira Arthur's Lake Pass Coleridge

Geraldine

73

Kumara Junction

1

Sou t

Timaru 8

he

rn

79

Al

ps

Mount Cook National Park

Hokitika

Fairlie Lake Tekapo Lake Tekapo Lake Pukaki

Lake Benmore

8

Twizel

6

Tasman Sea

266

1

Westland National Park

Mount Cook

80

Lake Ohau

8

C a n t e r b u r y

Above: Mount Cook, Southern Alps Below: St Patrick's, Akaroa

267

C a n t e r b u r y

There is a good camping ground here for those who enjoy a secluded setting, as well as some lovely picnic spots in the forest. Some of the parkÕs well-marked trails lead to waterfalls but the Big Tree Walk (1 hour) leads, appropriately enough, to a huge totara tree with a circumference of over 29ft (9m). At the end of the road that leads on from the forest park is Mesopotamia , a sheep run once owned by the great English writer Samuel Butler, who briefly tried his luck as a sheep farmer back in the 1860Õs. In Geraldine itself, the Vintage Car and Machinery Museum is worth a look for those interested in things technical and just out of town, in the direction of Fairlie, visitors can enjoy the taste of elderberry wine at BarkerÕs Wines.

Timaru Probably the best time to visit the port of Timaru, south of Geraldine, is when the Christmas Carnival is held at Caroline Bay . The carnival starts on 26 December and lasts about 10 days. In town, the Aigantighe Art Gallery is of interest along with the South Canterbury Museum. The museum has among its exhibits a replica of the plane designed by pioneer aviator Richard Pearse, who may have been airborne a few months before the Wright brothers.

Mount Hutt skiing The main route continues north of Geraldine towards Mount Hutt. The Mount Hutt ski field is regarded as one of the best in the 268

Southern Hemisphere. Reliable snowfall means that the season here can last for as long as six months. There are slopes suitable for beginners but the experienced can go higher up to enjoy the challenges of off-piste heli-skiing. All the necessary amenities are available, including a large ski school. Other ski fields within reasonable driving distance are Mount Dobson, Craigieburn and Porter Heights.

Methven The base for winter activities at Mount Hutt is Methven, a short distance from SH72. Obviously this town is at its liveliest during the winter months when tourists with sun-tanned faces strut down the main street looking for the best place to enjoy their apres-ski. However, there are things to do in summer too when trendy ski clothes are exchanged for the gumboots and check-shirts of a small farming town. Apart from a beautiful 18hole golf course there is good walking (Mt Hutt Forest) and fishing in the vicinity, as well as the possibility of jet boat rides through the dramatic Rakaia Gorge . A walkway allows a more leisurely look at the gorge (3-4 hours return). At the intersection of state highways 72 and 73 the visitor can either choose to go left for a last close look at the Alps in the vicinity of ArthurÕs Pass, or turn right on the road to Christchurch. For those who are starting their exploration of the South Island from Christchurch, the ArthurÕs Pass Road can be highly recommended as a very scenic route to the ÔWild West CoastÕ (see Chapter 8).

C a n t e r b u r y

ArthurÕs Pass National Park ArthurÕs Pass township is the gateway to the national park and only 2 miles (4km) from the 3,030ft (924m) pass itself. There is accommodation as well as a Park Visitor Centre. It has detailed information about all the tracks and inexperienced trampers should seek advice from the staff as to the difficulty of the walks they intend to do. The weather here can change very rapidly, making many normally ÔsafeÕ walks quite dangerous.

Flora and fauna The national park spreads over both sides of the Southern Alps , covering an area of 243,000 acres (98,408 hectares). Dry tussock grasslands and mountain beech forest dominate in the east, whereas the parkÕs western slopes, where rainfall is much higher, are characterised by dense, tangled rainforests of podocarp, beech and broadleaved trees. The alpine regions are also rich in flora; in fact more than fifty per cent of the alpine species found in New Zealand occur within the boundaries of this national park. Such a diversity of vegetational zones also supports a wide range of native birds. Most common are wood pigeons, riflemen, bellbirds and silver-eyes. In the alpine regions, keas amuse trampers with their antics. Less commonly seen are parakeets, yellowheads and blue ducks. Great spotted kiwis are also found throughout the park, but due to their nocturnal habits they are more often heard than seen.

Walks The walks within this mountainous park vary from easy strolls to demanding tours of four or five days. Short walks close to the township include the Dobson Nature Walk (1 1 /2 hours return), DevilÕs Punchbowl Falls Walk (1 hour return) and Bridal Veil Track (1 1 /2 hours return). An excellent two day tramp which crosses from the eastern beech forests to the rainforests of the West Coast is the Mingha-Deception Track . It starts only 3 miles (5km) south of the village at Greyneys Shelter. Also within easy reach, the Temple Basin Track (3 hours return) is hard to beat for magnificent views of alpine peaks, some of which exceed 6,500ft (2, 000m). In winter a ski field operates here.

CHRISTCHURCH Christchurch is frequently described as Ôthe most English city outside EnglandÕ which, however true the statement may or may not be, is at least partly reflected in its Cathedral Square , punting on the willow-lined Avon River , some noble old stone buildings and the very English traditions of ChristÕs College secondary school for boys. The first settlers in the area (organised settlement took place in the 1850Õs) were certainly English to the core and brought with them not only their Anglican faith but also their cricket bats. Christchurch has been the headquarters for New Zealand cricket ever since. The city was named, after Christ Church College at Oxford, where one o f the early settler leaders had studied. 269

C a n t e r b u r y

Above: Christchurch Gondola, Mount Cavendish, Christchurch Left: Christchurch Cathedral Below: New Regent Street, Christchurch

270

C a n t e r b u r y

Above: Sheepfarmers, Canterbury

Right: Black swans can be seen in their hundreds on Lake Ellesmere (Banks Peninsula)

271

C a n t e r b u r y

The City Centre Cathedral Square, in the middle of town, is a good place to start a walk around the inner city. For those who are driving (and who have successfully negotiated the one-way street system) there is parking at the corner of Gloucester and Manchester Streets.

Cathedral Square Dominating the square is the neo-Gothic Christ Church Cathedral . For an elevated view of the surroundings, the energetic can climb halfway up the 206ft (63m) tower to the observation balconies. During the week at 1pm, weather permitting, the cityÕs most eloquent eccentric comes to harangue crowds in the square with his view of the world. Famed throughout the country as Ôthe WizardÕ, and dressed in flowing robes, he is an ÔofficialÕ attraction with his postcards and upside-down maps of the world, available from the Tourist Information Centre.

Canterbury Museum At the end of Worcester Boulevard, on Rolleston Avenue, is the Canterbury Museum. Among the most interesting displays is the reconstruction of a Christchurch street from the pioneer days, and the Hall of Antarctic Discovery where exhibits chart the trials and tribulations of antarctic exploration. The recently opened gallery Iwi Tawhito Ñ Whenua Hou (Ancient People Ñ New Land) takes visitors far back into New ZealandÕs pre-European past, to a time when the now extinct giant moas were hunted by the early Polynesian ancestors of todayÕs modern Maori. Directly behind the museum, the Robert McDougall Art Gallery has large permanent collections of New Zealand and international art.

The Hagley Parks Access to the art gallery is through the Botanic Gardens which, combined with the adjacent South and North Hagely Parks, spread out

Canterbury Information Centre From the square, continue west along Worcester Boulevard towards Rolleston Avenue. Just before crossing a bridge over the Avon River it is worth stopping at the Canterbury Information Centre which is housed in an attractive old red brick building. Here visitors can get all the information they need on the many things to do in and around Christchurch. Apart from town plans they also have a pamphlet describing various walks around the central city. Opposite the Information Centre is a statue of the Antarctic explorer Robert Falcon Scott, who set off from here on his ill-fated expedition to the South Pole.

272

C a n t e r b u r y

Kilmore St

cto 1 ria S

6

Hereford St

Ave

8 11

Ter r a c e

Hi

Tuam St St Asaph St

St Asaph St

Moorhouse Ave

To Lyttelton

Durham St

Monteal St

To Akaroa

Lichfield St St

Tuam St

A ley

g

gh

15

14

Fer

ry R

1 2 3 4 5

Christchurch Casino Canterbury Provincial Council Buildings Canterbury Information centre Canterbury Museum Robert McDougall Art Gallery

d 16 17

Moorhouse Ave

To Intercity Buses

To Railway Station

Christchurch

Hereford St Cashel St

Lichfield St Oxfo rd

Worcester St

10

City Mall

13

12

arton

Cathedral 9 Square

Manchester St

r

Cashel St

To Airforce World

Ricc

7

3

Columbo St

Ri v e

South Hagley Park ve

Worcester St

Oxford Terrace

Av o n

Gloucester St Cambridge Terrace

4

Barbados St

Armagh St

2

Gloucester St 5

Ha

Madras St

Kilmore St

t

Armagh St

Botanic Gardens

Salisbury St

Peterborough St

Vi

Hagley Park

Victoria Lake

Bealey Ave

Manchester St

Durham St

Monteal St

t aS tori Vic

Salisbury St Peterborough St

Albert Lake

Columbo St

CHRISTCHURCH

To Antarctic Centre & Airport

6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

behind the museum like a green oasis in the middle of the city. Bordered by the gently flowing Avon River , with magnificent old trees providing shade and luxuriant flower beds adding a splash of colour, the gardens make a very pleasant setting for a relaxing

Arts Centre Police Station Air New Zealand Cathedral Bus Depot AA Hospital Antigua Boatsheds

14 15 16 17

St Michaels Church Mount Cook Landline To Ferrymead Historic Park & Mount Cavendish Gondola Roman Catholic Basilica

Route of the Christchurch Tramway

stroll. A tea kiosk offers light refreshments.

The Arts Centre Just across the road from the Botanic Gardens and museum, in the former Canterbury University 273

C a n t e r b u r y

buildings, is the Arts Centre. Once cloaked in the sober mantle of academia, the dignified stone buildings are now a gathering place for artists, musicians and craftspeople. Live entertainment, craft shops, galleries and good restaurants ensure that there is plenty to see and do here. Especially popular is the weekend market where a colourful melange of stalls sell everything from handicrafts to exotic foods.

The River Avon The Antigua Boatsheds at the southern end of Rolleston Avenue, hire out single and double canoes for those who want to paddle themselves along the Avon. If you prefer someone to do the work for you, punts complete with a boatman wearing his boater, depart from the Canterbury Information Centre, the Town Hall Restaurant and the Thomas Edmonds Restaurant; all of which are within walking distance of Cathedral Square.

From the boatsheds follow Cambridge Terrace back to Worcester Boulevard and Cathedral Square. This part of the walk is particularly attractive as it follows the tree-lined banks of the River Avon. On the way, the very impressive wooden structure of St MichaelÕs Church (1872) can be seen across the river.

The Casino A relatively new addition to the cityÕs entertainment scene is the casino. Christchurch Casino is situated north of the Council Buildings on Victoria and Kilmore Streets. Dress standards are quite strict, so do not attempt to turn up in jeans.

Around Christchurch Some of the cityÕs other attractions are best reached with either the bus or car. The International Antarctic Centre is located out near the airport. It offers an insight into the Antarctic

Architecture The Canterbury Provincial Council Buildings (1859-65), which are considered to be the best examples of neo-Gothic architecture in the country, can be reached from Cathedral Square by going north along Colombo Street and then turning left into Armagh Street. The most interesting feature of the complex is the magnificent high Victorian Gothic interior of the Stone Council Chamber. Further afield but also of great interest to architecture buffs is the Roman Catholic Basilica (1901-05) in Barbados Street. The Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) was greatly impressed by this cathedral; it is generally regarded as New ZealandÕs finest neo-Renaissance church.

274

C a n t e r b u r y

research schemes that are being carried out by American and New Zealand scientists. Christchurch is in fact, the US headquarters for ÔOperation Deep FreezeÕ, as the aerial supply link to their main Antarctic research station at McMurdo Sound is known. Multimedia special effects and the fascinating Great White South audio-visual presentation make the trip here a memorable experience. Around 4 miles (6km) north-east of the City Centre is the National Marae Ñ Nga Hau E Wha (The Meeting Place of the Four Winds of the Earth). The largest marae in New Zealand features the traditional art of New ZealandÕs main tribal groups. Entrance to the marae is through a finely carved gateway that symbolises the Maori settlement of New Zealand and later European colonisation. The whare nui (meeting house) is decorated with traditional carvings and painting ( kowhaiwhai ) whereas the whare wananga (house of learning) recounts ancient Maori myths and legends using contemporary styles and colours. Air Force World is an imaginatively arranged museum, only a 15 minute drive from the City Centre. Pride of place is taken by 16 vintage aircraft that have seen service in the New Zealand Air Force over the years. A special attraction is the chance to fly in a Tiger Moth biplane. Roughly the same distance away, but this time to the south-east of the City Centre, the Ferrymead Historic Park focuses on transport and technology. Visitors who passed on the role (and expense) of being a World War One flying ace at the

previous museum, can at least ride on a steam train or tram here. Only a few minutes away, the Mount Cavendish Gondola offers spectacular views of the Southern Alps and Banks Peninsula on its way up to the top of the Port Hills.

Banks Peninsula The rugged hills of Banks Peninsula stand in dramatic contrast to the flat plains surrounding Christchurch. These hills are, in fact, the heavily-eroded flanks of two offshore volcanoes that formed millions of years ago and were eventually linked to the mainland by an accumulation of shingle that was washed down from the Alps. Around 15,000 years ago, the huge twin craters filled with sea-water to form the natural bays at Lyttelton and Akaroa .

Getting there The quickest way to get to the peninsula, as well as ChristchurchÕs port at Lyttelton, is to take Ferry and then Tunnel Road through the road tunnel. An alternative is to go south on Colombo Street and over Dyers Pass. This route offers excellent views and allows the possibility of a stop at the Sign of the Takahe , an impressive medieval-looking stone building that houses a good restaurant. Those without their own transport can take advantage of the Akaroa Shuttle , a minibus that runs between Akaroa and Christchurch ☎ (03) 304 8600 or 0800 500 929. Probably the most interesting thing to do in Lyttelton is to take one of the cruises that start from here. Apart from that there is not 275

C a n t e r b u r y

much else to engage oneÕs interest except for a small museum and the Timeball Station . For many years, the lowering of a timeball at precisely 1pm enabled mariners in the bay to adjust their chronometers. The road from Lyttelton to Akaroa is narrow, winding and very picturesque. After passing Governors Bay and Allandale you can choose between two routes for the onward journey. The easiest to drive is the one over Gebbies Pass Road which then links with SH75 to Akaroa. The other road is less busy but partly unsealed and goes via Port Levy and Pigeon Bay.

Akaroa Akaroa was originally intended as a French colony but, to the dismay of t he colonists who arrived from France in 1840, the Treaty of Waitangi had already been signed and New Zealand was now under British sovereignty. The French stayed on, nevertheless, and the Gallic influence persists in many of AkaroaÕs street names (Rue Jolie, Rue Benoit) and the French-flavoured menus of some local restaurants. The town itself is quite charming; it stretches along a palm-fringed waterfront with quaint little cottages dotted here and there. The oldest house in town, and possibly Canter bury, is Langlois-Eteveneaux Cottage (1841-45). Behind the cottage is a museum that deals with AkaroaÕs colourful history. Other places of interest are the picturepostcard Church of St Patrick (1864) and the historic Akaroa Lighthouse (1878). But apart from viewing any specific sights, it is also nice to just 276

wander about town and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of the place. For those who linger, a perfect way to end the day would be with a bottle of (New Zealand) wine and a seafood meal at the Pier CafŽ, or any of the other restaurants in town for that matter. Akaroa is, all in all, a great place to while away a few days.

Walks and beaches Many of the little bays and inlets on Banks Peninsula can be reached by car, including lovely Okains Bay where there is an excellent Maori and Colonial Museum . However, the really secluded places are only accessible on foot. One of the peninsulaÕs most interesting walks is the four day Banks Peninsula Track. It begins and ends in Akaroa and covers 18 1 /2 miles (30km) of remote coastline. The track offers spectacular coastal scenery, safe swimming beaches and the chance to see penguins, seals and rare HectorÕs

The TranzAlpine Before finally leaving the South IslandÕs largest city, it is worth mentioning the TranzAlpine Express. The route this train takes over the Southern Alps via ArthurÕs Pass is quite spectacular and some consider it to be one of the worldÕs finest train journeys. The train departs daily from

C a n t e r b u r y

dolphins. For more information about the track and hut bookings ☎ (03) 304-7612. The tourist office in Akaroa should also have a few useful pamphlets about this and other walks. From Akaroa, SH75 winds its way back to Christchurch past Lake Forsyth and Lake Ellesmere. Both lakes serve as breeding grounds for hundreds of black swans and provide a habitat for around 150 other species of bird as well.

Back to Auckland State Highway 1, on which this long exploration of New Zealand began, is the road now followed for all those who are returning to Auckland for the flight home. The main place of interest on the way to Picton is Kaikoura and those who took the direct route to the West Coast as described at the end of Route 9 in Chapter 7 have the chance of stopping here now.

Express either Christchurch or Greymouth (on the West Coast). The trip can also be done as part of a package tour that combines a ride on the TranzAlpine Express with a jet-boat ride and a visit to a high country sheep farm. Contact Pacific Tourways ☎ (03) 359-9133).

THE CHATHAM ISLANDS As a footnote it is worth mentioning one final place: 533 miles (860km) east of Christchurch is a remote group of islands known as the Chathams. Windswept and about as far off the beaten track as most tourists are likely to get, the Chathams are home to a small community of fishermen and farmers. Most of the thousand or so islanders live on Chatham Island's 222,000 acres (90,000 hectares), the largest of the 10 islands in the group. The only other island that is inhabited is tiny Pitt Island where the population stands at around 50. A feature of the main island is the large central lagoon which, together with many shallow lakes, covers almost a quarter of its entire area.

History The European discoverer of the islands was the British naval officer Lieutenant William Broughton, who landed in 1791 at Kaingaroa , near the north-eastern tip of Chatham. His encounter with the islandÕs original inhabitants, the Moriori, was less than satisfactory and resulted in one of the Moriori being shot during a dispute. After him the islands were visited periodically by sealers and whalers but a serious attempt at European settlement did not begin before the 1840Õs.

The Moriori When and from exactly where the Moriori came is not known for 277

C a n t e r b u r y

certain. Some theories maintain that these Polynesians arrived here before the Maori settlement of New Zealand, whereas others suggest that the Moriori migrated here from the South Island. Whatever the case may be, the Moriori evolved, isolated as they were, a culture which differed in many respects from that of the mainland Maori. At the time of European discovery there were about 2,000 Morioris living on the Chathams. However, in the early nineteenth century an invasion by mainland Maoris, along with diseases introduced by sealers and whalers, decimated the population. The last supposedly full-blooded Moriori died in 1933 but many islanders still claim to be of Moriori descent. Not much remains as a reminder of early Moriori culture, but those who are interested in the Moriori can visit the small museum at Waitangi , on Chatham, where there are a few Moriori artefacts and early photos of the islands. Also of interest are the Moriori tree carvings (dendroglyphs) near the old Te Hapupu airfield.

Bird-watching and activities But as fascinating as the mysteries of Moriori culture may be, the reason more and more people are beginning to visit the Chathams is to go bird-watching. The rarest of the eighteen species of bird that are unique to the islands is the black robin. Once there were only five of these birds in the world, but successful breeding techniques have rescued them, for the moment,

278

from the brink of extinction. On the other hand, introduced birds like black swans and wekas are so common that they feature in the local cuisine along with freshly caught seafood such as crayfish. Other activities on the islands include horse-riding, diving and tramping. It is also possible to hire four-wheel drive vehicles on Chatham Island which, apart from walking, are the only way to get around as there is no public transport.

Getting there Those who want to visit this tiny insular world of lagoons, peat bogs, rugged coastlines and deserted beaches should plan well ahead. Though there are weekly flights from Wellington and Christchurch, demand is high and seats are very limited. From Napier, two shipping lines service the islands. Both these cargo ships carry a small number of passengers and require 36 to 40 hours for the voyage. There is also a ship that sails from Auckland. Otherwise another possibility is to join one of the cruises organised by Southern Heritage Expeditions. This company also specialises in trips to New ZealandÕs sub-antartic islands. Useful background reading for visitors to the Chathams is Moriori Ñ A People Rediscovered by Michael King and A Land Apart by Michael King and Robin Morrison. As Napier is a sister city to the Chathams, their tourist information will also be able to provide further details about the islands and how to get there.

A ACTIVITIES Akaroa

Punting/Canoeing

Harbour Cruises

Antigua Boatsheds Rolleston Ave Open: daily 9.30am-6pm ☎ 366 5885 Single and double canoes for boating on the Avon. Punts depart daily 9am-6pm, in winter 10am-4pm. Departure points: CanterburyChristchurch Information Centre, corner Worcester Street & Oxford Terrace, the Town Hall Restaurant (cnr Colombo St & Kilmore St) and Thomas Edmonds Restaurant (Cambridge Terrace).

MV Canterbury Cat Office opposite wharf ☎ (03) 304 7641 These cruises have an accent on natural history. Take binoculars. Daily at 11am & 1.30pm.

Kayaking/Canoeing Banks Peninsula Sea Kayaks 114 Rue Jolie ☎ (03) 304 8776 Rentals and guided tours.

Chatham Islands Boat Trips Southern Heritage Expeditions offers a cruise to the Chathams and New ZealandÕs subantarctic islands. The trip takes 14 days. Contact: New Zealand PO Box 22, Waikari ☎ (03) 314 4393 Fax (03) 314 4137

UK Naturetrek Chautara Bighton, Hants. SO24 9RB ☎ (01962) 733 051 Fax (01962) 733 368

Lake Tekapo Guided Walks Alpine Recreation Canterbury Ltd PO Box 75, Lake Tekapo ☎ (03) 680 6736 Fax (03) 680 6765 Offer the Mackenzie High Country Walk, an easy 3 day alpine walk.

Kayaking/Canoeing Lake Tekapo Motels & Motor Camp PO Box 43 ☎ (03)680 6825

Scenic Flights

USA NZCRO, 6033 West Century Blvd, Suite 1270, Los Angeles , CA 90045 ☎ (310) 395 7480

Air Safaris ☎ (03) 680 6880 Offer Grand Traverse flight around Mt Cook and Westland National Parks. Cheaper than comparable flights at Mt Cook.

Christchurch

Lyttelton

Jet Boating

Harbour Cruises

Jet Stream Tours ☎ (03) 352 2961 On Waimakariri River.

☎ (03) 328 8368 To Ripapa Island Historic Reserve. Daily 2.45pm 279

A Methven Jet Boating Rakaia Gorge Scenic Jet ☎ (03) 318 6515 Through Rakaia River Gorge.

Mount Cook Boat Trips Glacier Explorers Contact Hermitage booking desk. Glacial lake tours (21/2 hrs).

Guided Walks

Canterbury standard of fitness is required. No mountaineering experience necessary.

Heliskiing Heliskiing is offered by the Helicopter Line (see Scenic Flights) in association with Alpine Guides and Glentanner Park. Bookings are essential for heliskiing and the Tasman Glacier ski trip ☎ (03) 435 1834. Another possibility is Southern Alps Guiding, PO Box 32, Mount Cook ☎ (03) 435 1890.

Alpine Guides Ltd Mount Cook ☎ (03) 435 1834 Fax (03) 435 1898 Can provide a guide for the Copland Pass Track.

Scenic Flights

Alpine Recreation Canterbury Ltd (see Lake Tekapo above) Offer a 2-3 day alpine crossing over Ball Pass in the national park. A good

The Helicopter Line Glentanner Park ☎ (03) 435 1855 or (03) 435 1801 Similar trips to Mount Cook Airline.

Mount Cook Airline ☎ (03) 435 1848 Offer snow landings on Tasman, Fox & Franz Josef Glaciers.

ACCOMMODATION See page 288 and page 300 for accommodation and restaurant rating guides in the FactFile

Akaroa

ArthurÕs Pass

Chez La Mer $ (Backpackers) Rue Lavaud ☎ (03) 304 7024 Pleasant lodge with a secluded garden.

Mountain House $ (Backpackers) PO Box 12 ☎ (03) 318 9258 From May to September stay three nights for the price of two.

Lavaud House $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 83 Rue Lavaud ☎ (03) 304 7121 An old colonial house set in a pretty garden.

Chalet Hotel & Restaurant $$ Main Road (Bed & Breakfast) ☎/Fax (03) 318 9236 No smoking in rooms. Swiss-style accommodation.

280

A Christchurch Christchurch has a wide range of accommodation to suit all budgets. Camping grounds that are not too far from the City Centre (2 to 3 miles/3 to 5km) include the Showground Motor Camp ☎ (03) 338 9770 at 47-51 Whiteleigh Rd, Meadow Park Holiday Park ☎ (03) 352 9176 at 39 Meadow St and Amber Park Motel & Caravan Park ☎ (03) 348 3327 at 308 Blenheim Rd. Most of the cityÕs motels are to be found along either Bealey Avenue or Papanui Road. The Christchurch Motel Guide has a map showing their locations. Dreamland $ (Backpackers) 21/23 Packe Street ☎ (03) 366 3519 Small hostel with gardens. 15 minutes to City Centre.

Windsor Hotel $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 52 Armagh Street ☎ (03) 366 1503 Fax (03) 366 9796 Colonial style building, central location. No smoking.

Vagabond Backpackers $ 232 Worcester Street ☎ (03) 379 9677 Small hostel with modern facilities. Middle of town. Non-smoking.

Cashmere House $$$ (Bed & Breakfast) 141 Hackthorne Road, Cashmere ☎ (03) 332 7864 Luxurious villa, beautifully restored.

Adelphi Motel $$ 49 Papanui Road ☎ (03) 355 6037 Fax (03) 355 6036 About 5 minutes by car to the city. Several restaurants nearby.

Parkroyal $$$ Cnr Kilmore and Durham Sts ☎ (03) 365 7799 Fax (03) 365 0082 Luxury class hotel.

AmbassadorÕs Hotel $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 19 Manchester Street ☎/Fax (03) 366 7808 Also has cheaper ÔbackpackersÕ rooms.

Mount Cook

ElizaÕs Manor House $$ (Bed & Breakfast) 82 Bealey Avenue ☎ (03) 366 8584 Fax (03) 366 4946 Impressive old Victorian house built in 1856. Elegantly decorated bedrooms. Tudor Court Motel $$ 57 Bealey Avenue ☎ (03) 379 1465 Fax (03) 379 1490 Only a 15 minute walk to City Centre. Plenty of restaurants nearby.

Glentanner Park $ SH 80 (at head of Lake Pukaki) ☎ (03) 435 1855 Fax (03) 435 1854 Tent sites and cabins. 121/2 miles (20km) from Mt Cook Village. Mount Cook YHA Hostel $ Cnr Bowen & Kitchener Drives ☎ (03) 435 1820 Fax (03) 435 1821 Reservations are advisable from December to April. The Hermitage Hotel $$$ ☎ (03) 435 1809 Fax (03) 435 1879 The Travelodge and Mount Cook Chalets can also be booked with the above numbers. 281

A

Canterbury

Lake Tekapo

Twizel

Tailor-Made Tekapo Backpackers $ 9-11 Aorangi Crescent ☎ (03) 680 6700 Set in a large garden. Plenty of books for rainy days.

Glenbrook Station $$/$$$ On SH8, 5 miles (8km) south of Twizel ☎ (03) 438 9704 Fax (03) 438 9443 This high-country sheep station offers a variety of accommodation. Most expensive are the rooms in the farmhouse with dinner, bed and breakfast. The three cottages are quite modestly priced and cheapest of all are the backpacker beds in the shearersÕ quarters.

Lake Tekapo Motels & Motor Camp $$ Lake Side Drive ☎ (03) 680 6825 Fax(03) 680 6824 Also cheap cabins, tent sites and tourist flats.

Methven Blue Pub $ Barkers Road ☎ (03) 302 8046 Fax (03 ) 302 8048 Centre of town. Pudding Hill Chalets $$ SH72 (3 miles/5km from town) ☎/Fax (03) 302 8416 Also tent sites. Base for tandem parachuting.

Mountain Chalets $$ Wairepo Road ☎ (03) 435 0785 Fax (03) 435 0551 Cheaper than the motel units are twin rooms in the attached lodge.

Waitangi (Chatham Islands) Hotel Chathams $$ Waterfront Road ☎ (03) 305 0048 Fax (03) 305 0097

EATING OUT Akaroa Bruce Restaurant $$ Akaroa Village Inn, Beach Road ☎ (03) 304 7421 Fresh seafood is a specialty. In the same building is Jacques Cafe & Bar. La Rue $$ 6 Rue Balguerie ☎ (03) 304 7658 Seafood including crayfish (lobster) in season. 282

Port of Call Cafe $$ Main Wharf ☎ (03) 304 7272 Good seafood, nice setting.

ArthurÕs Pass The Chalet $$ Main Road ☎ (03) 318 9236

A Christchurch Dux de Lux $ (BYO/Licensed) Cnr Hereford & Montreal Sts ☎ (03) 366 6919 They brew their own beer here, mainly vegetarian. Some nights live music. BardelliÕs $$ 98 Cashel Mall ☎ (03) 353 0000 Popular place, quite stylish inside.

Canterbury Tales $$$ Parkroyal Hotel Kilmore & Durham Sts ☎ (03) 365 7799 Excellent food with full silver service. TiffanyÕs $$$ (BYO/Licensed) 95 Oxford St ☎ (03) 379 1350 Good food in a lovely old house near the Avon River.

Il Felice $$ (BYO/Licensed) Lichfield St ☎ (03) 366 7535 Excellent Italian cuisine.

Timaru

Thomas Edmonds Restaurant $$ (BYO/Licensed) Cnr Cambridge Terrace & Manchester Street ☎ (03) 365 2888 Nicely situated by the river.

The ÒBold AsÓ Brasserie $$ 335 Stafford Street ☎ (03) 688 3981 Good views, casual dining. A bit cheaper than Casa Italia.

Casa Italia $$ 2 Strathallan St ☎ (03) 684 5528 One of the best restaurants in town.

GENERAL INFORMATION Christchurch, Area Code: (03) Consulates UK: ☎ 365 5440 USA: ☎ 379 004

Important Telephone Numbers

Emergency Chemist ☎ 366 4439 Emergency Medical ☎ 365 7777 ☎ 379 9799 Chief Post Office is on Cathedral Square. Taxis

Post Office

Transport Airport Transport Bus from city to airport leaves from Tower Building, Cathedral Square. They depart half-hourly from 6am-6pm, then less frequently until 9.45pm. For exact times: ☎ 366 8855 Super Shuttle offers a door to door service to airport ☎ 365 5655. 283

A

Canterbury

Bus Services & City Tours For local bus timetables enquire at Bus Kiosk, Cathedral Square ☎ 366 8855. Those travelling further afield will find the Mt Cook Landline Coach Terminal at 40 Lichfield Street (Reservations: ☎ 379 0690. The Intercity Coachlines Terminal is at 471 Moorhouse Avenue, by old railway station ☎ 379 9020. Alternatively bookings for long distance buses can also be made through Christchurch Information Centre. They can also advise about the various shuttle services from Christchurch to Akaroa and other destinations in the South Island. The City Circuit Bus departs the Information Centre hourly from 9am-6pm. You can get on and off whenever you like along the route ☎ 385 5386. The Double Decker Bus Company offers a 90 minute circuit of the city covering many of the main sights ☎ 377 1644. More details on the above mentioned bus tours and others are available from the Information Centre. Tours can also be booked there.

Christchurch Tramway Trams have been recently reintroduced to the cityÕs streets. They run along a 11/2 mile (21/2 km) inner city loop which includes some of the cityÕs more interesting attractions and shopping areas. The trams run daily between 8am and 11pm. Mount Cavendish Gondola 10 Bridle Path Road Open: Mon-Thur 10am-11pm; Fri & Sat 10am-midnight; Sun 10am-9.30pm.

Trains Railway Station is off Clarence Street, a longish walk from the City Centre. Reservations freephone 0800 802 802 or contact Visitor Information Centre Worcester Street. The latter also have information about the morning bus service to the railway station.

Nightlife & Entertainment Christchurch The Town Hall ☎ 366 8899 on Kilmore Street provides a venue for performances of classical music. Live theatre can be seen at the James Hay Theatre (part of town hall complex) and the Theatre Royal, Gloucester Street. Movie-goers will find a large cinema complex in the former railway station. On the weekends there are a number of pubs where you can listen or dance to rock and folk music. Quite popular are Bush Inn at 364 Riccarton Road, Dux de Lux and His Lordships Hotel at 106 Litchfield Street. Nightclubs include Warners in Cathedral Square and Caesars in Chancery Arcade.

284

A PLACES TO VISIT Akaroa (Banks Peninsula) Akaroa Lighthouse Beach Road Open: Sun 1-4pm (daily during Jan). Akaroa Museum & LangloisEteveneaux Cottage Cnr Rue Lavaud & Rue Balguerie Open: daily 10.30am-4.30pm.

Christchurch Air Force World Main South Road Bus: No. 25 or 8. A courtesy bus leaves Christchurch Information Centre 3 times daily. Open: daily 10am-4pm. Arts Centre 2 Worcester Boulevard Open: daily Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm, weekends 10am-4pm. Canterbury Museum Rolleston Avenue Open: daily 9am-4.30pm. Free guided tours 10.15am, 11.30am, 1.15pm & 2.30pm. Admission is free (donations welcome). Canterbury Provincial Council Buildings Durham Street Open: Mon-Fri 10am-4pm. Guided tours Sun 2-4pm. Admission is free except for guided tours. Cathedral of the Blessed Sacrament (Roman Catholic Basilica) Barbados Street Open: daily 8am-4pm. A 15 min walk from the Square.

Christ Church Cathedral Cathedral Square Open: tower is open Mon-Sat from 8.30am, Sun 11.30am. Free guided tours Mon-Fri at 11am & 2pm, Sat 11am & Sun 11.30am. Christchurch Casino Victoria & Kilmore Sts Open: Mon-Wed 11am-3am, then without a break from 11am Thurs-3am Mon. Suitable attire required (no jeans, t-shirts etc). Ferrymead Historic Park 269 Bridle Path Road, Heathcote Bus: No. 3 Open: daily 10am-4.30pm. International Antarctic Centre Orchard Road Bus: Airport bus Open: daily 9.30am-8.30pm (1 Oct-31 Mar), 9.30am-5.30pm (1 Apr-30 Sep). Nga Hau E Wha National Marae 250 Pages Road Bus: No. 5 Open: Tours take place at 9am and 11am and 1pm and 3pm Mon-Fri. Robert McDougall Art Gallery Rolleston Avenue (Access via Botanic Gardens) Open: daily 10am-4.30pm. Guides available 11am-3pm daily.

Geraldine BarkerÕs Wines Off SH79 (5 miles/8km from Geraldine) Open: Mon-Sat until 6pm. 285

A

Canterbury

Vintage Car & Machinery Museum Timaru 174 Talbot Street Aigantighe Art Gallery Open: daily 10am-12noon, 1.30-4pm 49 Waiiti Road (Labour Weekend to QueenÕs Birthday Open: Tues-Fri 11am-4.30pm, Weekend). weekends 2-4.30pm.

Lyttelton Lyttelton Museum Gladstone Quay Open: 2-4pm Tues, Thurs & weekends (Dec-Feb), otherwise only weekends 2-4pm. Timeball Station Reserve Terrace Open: Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, weekends 10am-5pm.

Okains Bay (Banks Peninsula) Maori & Colonial Museum Open: daily 10am-5pm.

South Canterbury Museum Perth Street Open: Tues-Sun 1.30-4.30pm. Admission is free.

Twizel Black Stilt Breeding Centre Off SH8 Open: guided tours Mon-Fri at 10.30am & 2pm, weekends 3pm. Bookings must be made beforehand at Visitor Information Centre, Wairepo Rd, Twizel.

Waitangi (Chatham Islands) Chatham Islands Museum South Road Open: daily.

REGIONAL TRANSPORT Chatham Islands Air Flights to the Chatham Islands depart from Wellington and Christchurch. For details contact Air New Zealand Fax (64) 9 388 075, Air Chathams Fax (64) 3 3050 208 or your local travel agent. The flight takes 3 hours. Book well ahead.

Boat It is possible to get to the Chathams by ship from Auckland or Napier. Contact Cook Islands National Line Agency Ltd, PO Box 37-009, Parnell, Auckland Fax (64) 9 309 7604 or Napier Visitor Information for details. For natural history cruises to the Chathams, see under Chatham Islands in the section Activities above.

286

A VISITOR INFORMATION & PARK VISITOR CENTRES Akaroa

Fairlie

80 Rue Lavaud PO Box 80 Open: daily. ☎ (03) 304 8600

The Sunflower Centre 31 Main Street ☎ (03) 685 8258

ArthurÕs Pass National Park Main Road, PO Box 8 ☎ (03) 318 9211 Fax (03) 318 9271

Christchurch Christchurch/Canterbury Information Centre Cnr Worcester St & Oxford Tce, PO Box 2600 Open: Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm, weekends 8.30am-4pm. ☎ (03) 379 9629 Fax (03) 377 2424 VisitorsÕ Information Centre Christchurch International Airport PO Box 14-001 Open: times coincide with arrival of international flights. ☎ (03) 353 7783/4 Visitors' Information Centre Domestic Terminal Harewood, PO Box 14-001 Open: 6.30am-10.30pm. Saturdays 6.30am-8pm. ☎ (03) 353 7774/5

Geraldine Talbot Street ☎ (03) 693 8597

Methven Mt Hutt Road ☎/Fax (03) 302 8955

Mount Cook National Park Visitor Centre, Bowen Drive PO Box 5 Open: daily 8am-5pm. ☎ (03) 435 1818 Fax (03)4 35 1895

Twizel Wairepo Road, Private Bag Open: daily. ☎ (03) 435 0802 Fax (03) 435 0852

287

ACCOMMODATION There is a wide range of accommodation from the cheap motor camps and backpacker hostels to modern motels and luxury hotels. The Where to Stay Guide published by the NZTB lists many of New ZealandÕs motels, hotels, guest houses and motor camps and is available from New ZealandÕs overseas tourist offices. There are also a number of publications available locally which list the various forms of accommodation. Some of these are available free of charge at Tourist Information Centres, motor camps, motels or at railway stations and airports. AA Accommodation Guides published by the Automobile Association (AA) are free to overseas visitors who belong to an affiliated automobile club. These guides are available from AA offices throughout the country. JasonÕs accommodation guides are available in bookshops but some are also distributed free, as for instance JasonÕs Budget Accommodation which can be picked up at many motor camps. It is possible to get a double room in cheap hotel for less than $60. The moderately priced places might cost up to $130 for two people. In the Additional Information section at the end of each chapter, the various forms of accommodation are graded as follows (for double rooms): $ = inexpensive $$ = moderate $$$ = expensive

Camping New Zealand has some of the best camping facilities in the world. Camping grounds are well spread around the country and are often called Ômotor campsÕ, though some of the larger ones are called Ôholiday parksÕ. Most camping grounds have not only tent sites but also powered sites for campervans and caravans, and cabins. There are a number of free booklets available in New Zealand which list camping grounds, for instance the Holiday Accommodation Parks Directory, published by the Camp & Cabin Association of N.Z. The kitchens at camping grounds are usually very well equipped with stoves or microwave ovens, toasters, electric jugs and hot water for washing up. All you need to supply is your own crockery and pots, etc. Hot water showers and laundry facilities are also available. Many camping grounds offer cabins. The simplest are the standard cabins which are not much more than a bunk, a mattress and a roof over the head. There are a few better grades of cabin but the best of the lot are the tourist flats which may be equipped with tv, shower and cooking facilities. Usually you have to bring your own sleeping bag or blankets, though they can sometimes be hired. Cabins are excellent value for the budget visitor and can cost as little as NZ$20 for two persons. Tourist flats hover around the NZ$45-$50 mark. There are also camping sites run by the Department of Conservation (DOC) which are situated in national, maritime or forest parks as well as in various forest reserves. Some of these sites are serviced (hot showers, etc) but others are very simple and might only have a toilet and water supply. The brochure Conservation Campsites lists these sites and is available from DOC offices or by writing to DOC, PO Box 10420, Wellington, New Zealand. 288

Hostels YHA hostels and private or backpacker hostels are found throughout New Zealand and cater to budget conscious visitors. Many have single or double rooms as well as dormitory-style accommodation. Fully equipped communal kitchens and laundry facilities are generally available. Many hire out bicycles and will also help organise outdoor activities. Some hostels offer a pick-up service if they are located outside town. Reservations are recommended for all hostels in the summer season. Average price for a double room is about NZ$15 per person.

YHA Hostels (Hostelling International) In New Zealand there is no age limit, no curfew, no duties and 24 hour access for guests. Bedding is supplied. YHA members are also entitled to discounts on travel in N.Z. with Air New Zealand, Ansett New Zealand, certain bus services and long-distance trains. You can join the YHA in N.Z. For more information contact: YHA New Zealand, National Reservation Centre PO Box 68-149 National Office PO Box 436 Auckland Christchurch ☎ (09) 309 2802 Fax (09) 373 5083 ☎ (03) 379 9970 Fax (03) 365 4476

Backpackers Hostels Have similar services and facilities to YHA hostels but are more likely to have private or double rooms, at least at the moment. Premises are open all day and there are no membership fees. The optional VIP Backpackers Discount Card entitles holders to discounts similar to those available to YHA members. Booklets listing backpacker accommodation are available at Information Centres or the hostels themselves. For more information contact: A.T.A PO Box 8 Kaikoura ☎/Fax (03) 319 5916 Backpackers Resorts of New Zealand Ltd PO Box 991 Taupo ☎/Fax (07) 377 1157

Budget Backpackers Hostels NZ Ltd 99 Titiraupenga St Taupo ☎/Fax (07) 377 1568

Guesthouses and Bed & Breakfasts These vary a lot in price and in the standard of accommodation offered. In the cheaper guesthouses you may have to share bathroom facilities but the more expensive places have private facilities. The breakfasts at the B&BÕs can be very good value and they generally provide a more personal touch than motels or hotels. Lists of B&B accommodation are available at the guesthouses themselves or from the Tourist Information Centres. 289

Hotels, Motels & Motor Inns Hotels can be quite cheap and basic or offer all the luxury one could ever wish (to pay) for. They are usually centrally located, often have an attached cafŽ or restaurant, guest lounge and laundry facilities. New ZealandÕs traditional ÔpubÕ hotels are licensed to sell alcohol and may have both lounge and public bars. Many of the smaller hotels also offer budget or backpacker rooms. These budget rooms are normally without private bathrooms and tvÕs, etc. Motel units are equipped with bathrooms and always provide tea or coffee-making facilities. Bedding is usually provided. Many have very well equipped kitchens with everything necessary to prepare a proper meal. Other facilities include television, radio, heating and electric blankets. Sauna, spa and swimming pool may also be available. Motor Inns are a cross between a motel and hotel. They usually have a bar and a public restaurant. All rooms have attached bathrooms and tea or coffee making facilities are usually provided. A few rooms might also have kitchens. As is the case with a motel it is possible to park very close to your room.

Farmstays and Homestays These places offer foreigners a chance to get to know a New Zealand family in either a rural, town or city environment. On the farmstays it is possible to participate in such typical farming activities as milking or rounding up sheep. Rooms may be in the familyÕs house or in a separate cottage. Costs for this type of accommodation vary greatly. Some farm and homestays are listed at the back of the Where to Stay Guide mentioned earlier, otherwise contact one of the Tourist Information Centres or: Homestay Ltd PO Box 25 115 Auckland ☎ (09) 575 5980 Fax (09) 575 9977

Rural Holidays New Zealand Ltd PO Box 2155 Christchurch ☎ (03) 366 1919 Fax (03) 379 3087

WWOOF A cheaper way to stay on a farm than a farmstay is to join Willing Workers on Organic Farms (WWOOF). Members receive a list with organic farms throughout New Zealand. In exchange for your work the farmer provides food and accommodation. The best time of the year to take advantage of WWOOF is from October to March/May. To join contact: Janet & Andrew Strange, PO Box 1172, Nelson, New Zealand ☎ 025 345711 (mobile phone).

ARRIVAL AND CUSTOMS All visitors to New Zealand need to have valid passports to enter the country and the passport must be valid for at least three months beyond the time of your intended stay. Holders of British, Canadian, USA or Australian passports do not require a visa. British passport holders are 290

permitted to stay for up to six months, Canadian and USA passport holders are given a permit on arrival that enables a stay of three months and Australian citizens can stay in New Zealand indefinitely. Apart from a passport it is necessary to be able to produce a return or onward ticket to a country that you are permitted to enter and evidence that you have sufficient funds to support yourself during the time of your stay. This is usually NZ$1000 per month; often it is enough to produce one of the major credit cards (Visa, Amex, MasterCard, Diners Club, Bankcard). Vaccination certificates are not required. As entry requirements are subject to change it is always wise to check the current situation with your airline, travel agent or a New Zealand embassy or consulate before departing.

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS New Zealand has, so far, managed to remain relatively free of many of the animal and plant diseases that affect other countries. The accidental introduction of such diseases could have disastrous effects on the nationÕs economy which still relies heavily on agriculture. Because of this the interiors of all planes arriving from overseas are sprayed with an insecticide (harmless to humans) before passengers can alight. Furthermore all arriving passengers must fill out a form declaring whether or not they are carrying any plants, animal products or foodstuffs. All personal belongings (clothing, cameras etc) needed for a visit are duty-free. The following goods are duty free for persons over 17 years of age: 200 cigarettes or 250g tobacco or 50 cigars (or a mixture of all three that does not exceed 250g); 4.5 litres of wine (e.g. 6,750ml bottles) or 4.5 litres of beer and one bottle of spirits of no more than 1,125ml. If you are not carrying goods exceeding a total combined value of $NZ700 (your duty and tax free passenger concession), you can import two extra bottles (1,125ml each) of duty free spirits. Note that Auckland International Airport is one of the few airports in the world where it is possible to buy duty free goods on arrival. Visitors are warned against bringing illegal drugs into the country.

BANKS Are open Monday to Friday 9am-4.30pm. Overseas exchange services are available at international airports for all incoming and outgoing flights.

BUSINESS HOURS Shops are generally open Monday to Friday 9am-5.30pm, Saturdays 9am-12.30pm and some shops (especially in the cities) may be open all day Sunday. On late shopping nights (Thursdays or Fridays) the hours are 9am-9pm.

291

CHEMISTS Chemist shops are found in all towns and cities. They keep normal business hours but in larger towns and cities there is also an after-hours emergency service. Telephone numbers of Emergency Chemists are given in the General Information sections for Auckland and Wellington. Apart from medicaments the chemist shops also sell a wide range of products from cosmetic articles to photo accessories.

CLIMATE New Zealand has a mild climate with temperatures at their warmest between October and April. The months June to August are cooler, especially in the south of the South Island, but in Northland the temperatures can still be quite pleasant.

AUCKLAND 80¼F

Maximum & Minimum Average Daily Temperatures

70

CHRISTCHURCH 25¼C

20

60

80¼F

70

25¼C

20

15

60

15

50

10

50

10

40

5

40

5

32

0

32

JAN

APRIL AUG

OCT

0

5

10

10 15

Average Number of Rainy Days

DUNEDIN 80¼F

JAN

APRIL AUG

OCT

0

0

5

15

Maximum & Minimum Average Daily Temperatures

70

Average Number of Rainy Days

WELLINGTON 25¼C

80¼F

Maximum & Minimum Average Daily Temperatures

25¼C

20

70

60

15

60

15

50

10

50

10

40

5

40

5

32

0

32

JAN

APRIL AUG

OCT

0

20

JAN

APRIL AUG

OCT

0

5

5

10

10

15

292

Maximum & Minimum Average Daily Temperatures

Average Number of Rainy Days

15

Average Number of Rainy Days

0

As the European winter falls in the New Zealand summer, this is the time when most people decide to visit New Zealand. However it is probably better to avoid the months December to January as this is when most of New Zealand is on holiday too. Early and late summer are pleasant times to travel in New Zealand, as is autumn. If you are in New Zealand in autumn make sure you visit the area of Queenstown. The light and the colours at this time of the year are simply fantastic! If you visit New Zealand in winter you are probably headed for the excellent ski fields of the South Island. But even if this is not the case there are still many things to see and do and accommodation will be quite a bit cheaper Ñ at least outside the main ski areas. It is possible to whizz around New Zealand in two weeks but most people find this far too short. Four weeks or more is much better. If you do have only limited time then it is best to stick to the main attractions and to fly as often as possible Ñ check the airline discounts!. It might even be worth considering taking one of the many tours around the country that are offered.

CRIME New Zealand is a relatively safe country and visitors need take no extra precautions against such things as violent crime or theft. However one problem that has got worse over the years is theft from cars. This is mainly a problem in major areas or car parks near attractions that are frequented by tourists. Leave no valuables in your car or at least make sure that they are hidden from view. In most cases, common-sense is all you will need to avoid problems.

CURRENCY AND CREDIT CARDS New Zealand has a decimal system based on dollar and cent denominations. Dollars come in notes to the value of $5, $10, $50 and $100. There are 5c, 10c, 20c, 50c, $1 and $2 coins. There is no limit on the amount of money that you can bring in or take out of New Zealand. New Zealand dollars can be exchanged for any foreign currency at the going rate. All major credit cards (American Express, Bankcard, Mastercard, Visa and Diners Club) are widely accepted. The same applies to TravellersÕ Cheques. Banks will give a cash advance on Mastercard/Eurocard and Visa. Those with American Express credit cards should go to an American Express office.

ELECTRICITY The mains electricity supply operates at 230 volts (AC), 50 hertz; three pronged plugs are used.

293

EMBASSIES Main foreign Embassies in New Zealand: UK Australia Australian High Commission 72-78 Hobson Street Thorndon, Wellington ☎ (04) 473 6411

UK High Commission 44 Hill Street Wellington ☎ (04) 472 6049

Canada

USA

Canadian High Commission 61 Molesworth Street Wellington ☎ (04) 473 9577

29 Fitzherbert Terrace Wellington ☎ (04) 472 2068

For a complete list of embassies and consulates, refer to ÔDiplomat & Consular RepresentativesÕ in the Yellow Pages.

Main New Zealand Embassies Overseas: Australia UK New Zealand High Commission Commonwealth Avenue Canberra, ACT 2600 ☎ (6) 270 4211

Canada New Zealand High Commission Suite 801 Metropolitan House 99 bank Street Ottawa, Ont. K1P 6G3 ☎ (613) 238 5991

New Zealand High Commission New Zealand House The Haymarket London SW1Y 4TQ ☎ (71) 973 0366/63

USA New Zealand Embassy 37 Observatory Circle NW Washington DC ☎ (202) 328 4848

EMERGENCIES For police, fire and ambulance ☎ 111 and tell the operator which service you require.

FACILITIES FOR THE DISABLED Facilities for disabled persons are available at airports and many other public buildings such as theatres, museums, shopping malls and public toilets. Some of the more modern hotels and motels also have facilities for the disabled and this is sometimes indicated in the Where to Stay Guide published by the NZTB and available from overseas tourist offices. Some short walks in the national parks are suitable for people in wheelchairs and the Park Visitor Centres can provide the necessary information. For information, contact the New Zealand Tourist Office in your country of origin or: Disability Resource Centre, PO Box 24-042, Royal Oak, Auckland ☎ (09) 625 8069, Fax (09) 624 1633. 294

FESTIVALS Listed here are only some of the more important or interesting festivals and local events. Local Information Centres will have more details.

Year 2000 ÔMillenniumÕ Celebrations Because New Zealand is directly west of the International Dateline it will be one of the first countries in the world to experience the dawn not only of a new day but of a new millennium. From 31 December 1999 to 1 January 2000 celebrations will take place in many places in New Zealand but some of the largest will be in Auckland and Gisborne. Gisborne City actually claims it will be the first city in the world to see the sun rise in the year 2000; 12 hours ahead of London, 18 hours ahead of New York and 21 hours ahead of Los Angeles. Those who travel to the Chatham Islands will see it even earlier though. On the first day of the year 2000 the sun will rise over Pitt Island at exactly 16.05 Greenwich Mean Time, making it the first inhabited place on Earth to see the Millennium.

Auckland

Hokitika

Fiesta Week: mid-March

Wildfoods Festival: 14 March, food and entertainment.

Blenheim Marlborough Food & Wine Festival: 2nd weekend in February.

Hamilton Ngauruawahia Regatta for Maori Canoes: March New Zealand Agricultural Field Days: June

Hastings Highland Games: April

Masterton Golden Shears Sheep Shearing Contest: March

Taihape Gumboot Day: Easter Tuesday

Wellington International Festival of the Arts: February to March in even numbered years only. Summer City Programme: January to February

FURTHER READING Local bookshops will have at least some of the following titles. Also try one of the many second-hand bookshops scattered throughout the country Ñ Auckland and Wellington are especially good in this respect. New ZealandÕs excellent public libraries are another good place to search for information. Among the publications dealing with New Zealand history, the following can be recommended: A History of New Zealand by Keith Sinclair, (Penguin, 1991) is regarded as an authoritative study; Struggle Without End by Ranginui Walker (Penguin, 1990) looks at New Zealand history from the Maori perspective and Anne SalmondÕs award winningTwo WorldÕs (Viking, 1993) examines the first meetings between Maori and Europeans in the period 1642-1772. The pre-European phase of Maori history is dealt 295

with in Roger DuffÕsThe Moa-Hunter Period of Maori Culture (Government Printer, 1977) and Janet DavidsonÕs The Prehistory of New Zealand (Longman Paul, 1984). Andrew SharpÕs provocative book Ancient Voyagers in the Pacific (Polynesian Society, Avery Press, 1956) questions the idea of organised voyages of discovery across the Pacific. A counter argument is presented by David Lewis in We The Navigators (A.H. & A.W. Reed, 1972). There are numerous publications dealing with the countryÕs flora and fauna but useful guides for the visitor are various titles in the series Viking Sevenseas Pocket Guides (Viking Sevenseas Ltd), along with Geoff MoonÕsCommon Birds in New Zealand (Reed, 1995).

HEALTH New Zealand is a clean and safe country and visitors need take no special precautions prior to arrival. The medical system is of a high standard with modern hospitals in all the larger towns and cities. There are no vaccination requirements for entering the country. Because of the dramatic thinning of the earthÕs ozone layer over New Zealand the sunÕs harmful UV rays are more dangerous here than elsewhere. Make sure that you use a strong sunscreen and wear a hat if spending more time outdoors. Parents travelling with infants should take especial care that they are properly protected. The amount of time that you can spend outdoors without risking sunburn (the Ôburn-timeÕ) is broadcast on local radio and television over the summer months. Note you can get sunburned even on cloudy days. People walking in New ZealandÕs national parks should be aware that the intestinal parasite giardia lamblia has been found in some lakes and rivers. It causes severe diarrhoea in those unfortunate enough to drink infected water and the symptoms can last up to three weeks. The best preventative measures are to boil water for 5 minutes or to use suitable filters or water purifying compounds that are available from outdoor sports shops.

HEALTH AND TRAVEL INSURANCE Visitors to New Zealand are still covered under the Accident Compensation Scheme for personal injury through an accident. Benefits include some medical and hospital expenses but the scheme does not provide for loss of earnings outside New Zealand. Therefore visitors are nevertheless advised to get a travel insurance policy that adequately covers them against accidents, theft or loss of possessions and in the event of falling ill in New Zealand. Consult your local travel agent travel agent as to the various options available.

LANGUAGE The two official languages are English and Maori, though English is the language that is most widely spoken. In spite of the fact that visitors are rarely required to speak Maori, it can nevertheless help to know a few 296

words as many of New ZealandÕs towns and geographical features have Maori names. Maori place-names are either descriptive or refer to an event, real or legendary, that may have occurred at that particular spot. Space precludes a detailed description of Maori pronunciation but it helps to know that, in Maori, ÔwhÕ is normally pronounced like the English ÔfÕ and that ÔngÕ is pronounced like the ÔngÕ in singer. A few common greetings: Haere mai welcome Haere ra goodbye (spoken by the person staying, to the person going) Ka pai thank you Kia ora hello Words commonly encountered in Maori place-names: ao cloud one sand, beach awa river or valley papa flat rock ika ish puke hill iti small rangi sky kai food roa long manga stream or roto lake rua two, cave tributary maunga mountain tapu sacred moana sea or lake te the motu island wai water nui big whanga bay, body of pa fortified water whenua land or country settlement

Taumatawhakatangihangakoauauotamateapokaiwhenuaakitanatahu Ñ or Taumata for short. A hill 5 miles (8km) south of Porangahau in HawkeÕs Bay. This is not even the longest version of the name which would then, beyond any doubt, be the longest place-name in the world. It roughly translates as Ôafter TamateaÕs brother was killed in battle near here, Tamatea climbed this ridge and played a lament on his fluteÕ.

MAORI CULTURAL TOURS The Maori people have a unique cultural heritage, and those visitors who wish to learn more about this Polynesian people can do so on one of several cultural tours. Other tours are listed in the NZTB brochure Maori Cultural Heritage Guide. Tall Tale Travel ÔN Tours Ltd PO Box 403 Kaitaia ☎ (09) 408 0870 Fax (09) 408 1100 A guided visit to Pukepoto Marae, Kaitaia

Tamaki Tours PO Box 1492 Rotorua ☎/Fax (07) 346 2823 Overnight stay on marae, hangi and concert.

297

Te Rehuwai Safaris Ruatahuna ☎/Fax (07) 362 7641 Learn about the Maori people (Tuhoe) of Te Urewera National Park. Horse treks and marae visit included.

Tuwharetoa Tourism 145 Tongariro Street Taupo ☎ (07) 378 0254 Fax (07) 378 3714 Marae stays with full traditional welcome.

MAPS Good road atlases and maps can be bought from any bookshop. Pathfinders maps are quite good for travelling around as are Wises maps. Particularly good are the AA road maps. These maps are free to AA members and to members of motor clubs overseas that are associated with the New Zealand AA. AA maps are available at any AA office.

MEASUREMENTS The metric system is used in New Zealand: 1 kilogram (1,000 grams) = 2.2lb 1 litre = 13/4 pints 4.5 litres = 1 gallon 1 kilometre = 0.62 miles (10km = approximately 6 miles)

NATURE TOURS Nature tours in New Zealand cover everything from bird-watching to whale watching. Some nature tours (or ecotours as they are fashionably known) are listed in the Additional Information sections at the end of each chapter. A useful booklet published by the NZTB is the Natural Heritage Guide. It lists a wide variety of nature tours throughout New Zealand. Nationwide operators that have been recommended include: New Zealand Nature Safaris PO Box 5035 Port Nelson ☎ (03) 542 3159 Fax (03) 542 3190

Nature Quest New Zealand PO Box 6314 Dunedin ☎/Fax (03) 489 8444

NATIONAL PARK VISITOR CENTRES Park Visitor Centres are located near the main entrances of all national parks. They not only offer all the necessary practical information about walking and other activities in the parks but also function as ÔminiÕ natural history museums specialising in the local flora and fauna. Maps, brochures and books concerning the park in question can be bought here. These park books are excellent value and, because they are superbly illustrated with colour photos, they also make excellent souvenirs of your visit. Another source of information about both national and forest parks are the Department of Conservation (DOC) offices. These offices are found in many towns and cities and can also provide you with maps, brochures etc. 298

The DOC runs summer visitor schemes for three months from Christmas at many of the national parks. These highly informative schemes include half day and full day field trips as well as evening talks on natural history. The addresses of National Park Visitor Centres are listed at the end of the relevant chapters. DOC Information Centre, Central Office, 59 Boulcott St, PO Box 10420, Wellington ☎ (04) 471 0726, Fax (04) 471 1082.

POST OFFICES Are open Monday to Friday 9am-5pm. Mail can be sent poste restante to post offices all over the country. In cities, address poste restante to the chief post office (CPO). Mail is held for 30 days.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS 1st & 2nd January 6th February March/April 25 April 1st Monday in June 4th Monday in October 25 December 26 December

New Years Day and day after New Year Waitangi Day (New Zealand Day) Good Friday and Easter Monday Anzac Day QueenÕs Birthday Labour Day Christmas Day Boxing Day

The main school holidays are from mid-December until January. There are also school holidays in May and August. The provinces (Northland, Otago, etc) also have their own anniversary day holidays.

RESTAURANTS AND TEAROOMS Restaurants in New Zealand are divided into BYO (Bring Your Own) or licensed establishments, though some licensed places also allow BYO. Only licensed restaurants may serve alcohol but the BYOs, which are often cheaper, allow you to bring your own bottle of wine, etc. A corkage fee is charged for opening the wine bottle and providing glasses. Pubs often have restaurants attached which offer simple but reasonably priced food. Vegetarian restaurants are most likely to be found in the cities. Many Indian restaurants have at least a few vegetarian dishes. The small tearooms which are found all over the country are the traditional New Zealand equivalent of the cafŽ. Though some are rather low on atmosphere they are usually very reasonably priced. The better ones offer excellent home-made cakes (the carrot cakes are especially good) along with piping hot tea or coffee. Devonshire teas, which are served in the mornings and afternoons, consist of a pot of tea with a hot water refill and a couple of scones or muffins with cream and jam. Many tearooms along the main tourist routes are combined with a handicrafts shop. A cheap meal in an inexpensive Ôno frillsÕ cafe or restaurant might be around $10 (not including dessert or drinks) while the moderately priced category serve mains from about $16 to $18. The categories used in 299

Additional Information at the end of each chapter are intended only as a rough guide. They are: $ = inexpensive $$ = moderate $$$ = expensive

SOUVENIRS With all those sheep it is not surprising that most souvenir shops make sure that they have a good stock of woollen jerseys or sheepskin rugs. Handknitted jerseys are usually of very high quality but they are not cheap. More affordable are woollen walking socks (Norsewear is a good brand), scarves and hats. A woollen garment that is favoured by many Kiwi trampers because of its robust quality is the Swann-Dri or ÔSwannieÕ for short. They are also fairly expensive but will probably last longer than any other piece of clothing you have ever bought. Traditional Maori carvings in either bone, wood or greenstone (jade) are also popular souvenirs. The famous Maori tiki (a stylized human figure) is often carved from both greenstone and bone. Paua (abalone) shell is, like greenstone, used for various items of jewellery. Generally speaking, New Zealand handicrafts are of a very high standard and it is worth browsing through the many local arts and crafts shops for original souvenirs. Especially good is the pottery, weaving and wood carving. Articles range from objects of everyday usage to those that may be described (without any exaggeration) as works of art. New Zealand-made outdoor equipment belongs to the worldÕs best and if you need a new backpack, sleeping bag or tent it might pay to investigate one of the many sports shops throughout the country. Towards the end of summer it is often possible to get some good deals Ñ try bargaining. Other souvenirs might include a glossy picture book about New Zealand, a cassette of traditional Maori music or perhaps a t-shirt decorated with a kiwi-bird motif.

SPORTS AND PASTIMES The scope for outdoor activities and sports in New Zealand is virtually unlimited. Not all the sports and pastimes available are listed below but more information is available from NZTB offices overseas and of course the local Tourist Information Centres. A very useful booklet published by the NZTB is Adventure New Zealand, listing a wide range of adventure activities ranging from dolphin swimming to tandem sky diving. Background information about some of the most exciting (and unusual) outdoor adventures is contained in the excellent book Classic New Zealand Adventures by J. Kennett, J. Mulheron, G. Carlyon & M. OÕNeill (GP Publications, Wellington).

Angling Some people come to New Zealand just for the fishing, it is that good! Trout, salmon, perch and a few other fresh water species have all been introduced to New Zealand and seem to thrive in the countryÕs rivers and 300

lakes, often reaching record sizes. For trout the best places to go are Lake Taupo and the Tongariro River near Turangi, but Gore and the Waitaki Valley in the South Island are also renowned for the excellent trout fishing. Salmon fishing is also good in many parts of New Zealand, though Southland and Otago are the regions where the fishing is meant to be at its best. The main areas for big game fishing in New Zealand are Paihia and Russell in the Bay of Islands, Whitianga on the Coromandel and Tauranga and Whakatane in the Bay of Plenty. Launches can be chartered in these places and the sort of fish one is likely to catch include hammerhead shark, blue marlin, striped marlin, tuna and broadbill. The season for marlin and tuna is January-May, whereas sharks may be fished throughout the year. For angling in lakes and rivers it is necessary to obtain a permit. Permits are usually issued for a particular area and may be valid for a day, week, month or an entire season. Special tourist fishing permits that are valid throughout New Zealand for a month are available from the larger sport shops or from Tourism Rotorua. For more information about permits and regulations contact the appropriate tourist information. Guided fishing trips are available in Turangi, Taupo, Rotorua and a number of other places as well.

Bungy Jumping (See also Queenstown in main text) Throwing oneself off a bridge with a rubber cord tied around the ankles might not be everybodyÕs cup of tea but there are still plenty of people only too happy to pay for the experience. The main area for bungy jumping is Queenstown but it is also offered at Hanmer Springs in the South Island and Taupo, Mangaweka, Masterton and Auckland in the North Island. Safety standards are very high Ñ but the rush of adrenalin through your body is probably even higher.

Canoeing & Kayaking With so many rivers and lakes and so much coastline it almost goes without saying that New Zealand is a great place to go canoeing or kayaking. If you have never tried it before, you can learn here and you will love every moment! Canoes and kayaks can be hired at a number of places around the country and many of the companies that rent them out also offer guided tours. Tourist Information Centres can supply the necessary details. One of the best rivers in the country for canoe/kayak trips is the Whanganui in the North Island. If you only have the time to canoe one river, then do this one. It is suitable for beginners and the stretch between Taumarunui and Pipiriki offers some superb scenery. Sea kayaking is something that the authors cannot recommend highly enough. Explore New ZealandÕs fascinating coastline and discover lonely bays and beaches accessible only by water! Great places for sea kayaking include the Bay of Islands, Coromandel, the Marlborough Sounds and along the coast of Abel Tasman National Park. Sea kayaks can be hired and guided trips are offered in all these areas.

301

Cycling In spite of all the hills, New Zealand is getting more and more popular among cyclists. Even on the main roads there is not too much traffic, the landscape is beautiful and varied and there are plenty of camping grounds along the way. Mountain bikes can be hired in many towns and it is also possible to book guided mountain bike tours, with all equipment provided if you so wish. Bikes are hired by the day, week or even on a monthly basis. It is often possible to hire equipment for touring as well. The local Tourist Information Centres can provide the necessary addresses. Trains and the main long-distance bus companies will transport bicycles but only if there is enough room in their luggage compartments. The Kiwi Experience bus (☎ (09) 366 1665) and other so-called Ôalternative bus companiesÕ are rather more generous in this respect and endeavour to make sure that there is always room for cyclists and their bikes. In New Zealand it is compulsory to wear a helmet and it is forbidden to cycle along the tracks in the national parks. Pedaltours, 164 Parnell Road ☎ (09) 302 0968, Fax (09) 302 0967, organise bike tours throughout New Zealand.

Golf Golf is a very popular sport in New Zealand and just about every town seems to have at least one golf course. There are in fact over 400 golf courses to be found spread throughout the country Ñ more per head of population than in the USA! Most clubs welcome visitors and a few will also hire out the necessary equipment. Green fees range from about $10 at the smaller rural golf courses to about $50 at the top city clubs. Not only are many of the countryÕs golf courses of a very high standard but some can be counted among the most beautiful in the world. The American Golf Digest has included Wairakei International near Taupo in its list of the 25 top courses outside the USA. Other top golf courses include Titirangi Golf Club (Auckland), Waitangi Golf Club (Bay of Islands), Paraparaumu Beach Golf Club (near Wellington) and Queenstown Golf Club, Kelvin Heights. The Rotorua Golf ClubÕs Arikikapakapa Course is worth a visit if you like a bit of volcanic activity to accompany your game. However those golfers who misjudge the 15 hole may will find that their ball has been irretrievably lost in a boiling hot pool.

Horse Trekking An interesting way to explore New Zealand is on horse-back, and horse treks to suit all levels of experience are offered at many places throughout the country. Some of the longer treks may last well over a week but there are also plenty of half day and full day trips being offered. A few addresses are on the next page.

302

NORTH ISLAND

SOUTH ISLAND

Rangihau Ranch Rangihau Rd, Coroglen, Whitianga ☎ (07) 866 3875 Book at Whitianga Information Centre 1 hour and overnight treks into the Coromandel Ranges.

Ardachy Trail Rides Leila Graham Private Bag Hindon, Dunedin ☎ (03) 489 1499 1 hour, 1/2 day and full day treks in Otago hill country.

Waitomo Horse Trekking Juno Hall Waitomo Caves ☎ (07) 878 7649 1 hour rides and overnight treks.

Cape Farewell Horse Treks Golden Bay Book at Farewell Spit Visitor Centre ☎ (03) 524 8454 or 524 8031 1 hour rides to 6 day treks on West Coast.

Whananaki Trail Rides Hales Rd, RD1 Hikurangi, Northland ☎ (09) 433 8299 2 hour and overnight treks. Windyglen Farm Peter & Lynda Wilson Bertrand Rd, RD43 Waitara, Taranaki ☎ (06) 752 0603 1 hour and full day treks.

Clarence Alpine Rides David King Clarence Bridge Kaikoura RD1 ☎/Fax (03) 319 4339 1-4 day treks through river valleys and alpine regions. Mount Vernon Stables Rue Balguerie Akaroa ☎ (03)304 7180 1 /2 - 21/2 hour rides.

Jet Boating Racing down a narrow river canyon at breakneck speed in a boat that can execute a 360° spin just when a collision seems imminent is, in essence, what jet boating is all about. Jet boating is offered just about everywhere in New Zealand where there is a river or lake. Popular jet boating rivers in the North Island are the Motu River near Opotiki and the Whanganui River. In the South Island the rivers around Queenstown are the location of some of New ZealandÕs most exciting jet boat trips.

Mountaineering The best area for mountaineering is of course the Southern Alps. Mountaineering Centres within this region are Mount Cook National Park, Mount Aspiring National Park and ArthurÕs Pass National Park. All these parks offer climbs suited to all levels of experience. Mountain huts are provided as are mountaineering guides. For those who wish to learn mountaineering skills there are climbing schools at both Mount Cook and Mount Aspiring. 303

Scuba Diving Popular diving areas in the North Island include Goat Island Marine Reserve north of Auckland, the Poor Knights Islands and the Bay of Islands. The fiords of the South Island attract divers because there is no other place in the world where black and red corals grow so close to the surface. Normally black coral is only found at depths of over 400ft (120m) but in the clear water of the fiords it may be seen at depths of just 20ft (6m). Scuba divers also have plenty of historic shipwrecks to explore from the days when sailing ships plied the sometimes treacherous coastal waters. Of more recent vintage is the wreck of the Rainbow Warrior. Having been sunk by the French secret service in 1985 it was towed out to its final resting place near the Cavalli Islands off the Northland Coast. Regular diving tours to the CavalliÕs are offered from the Bay of Islands and Matauri Bay. Another wreck worth exploring is that of the Russian cruise ship Mikhail Lermontov. It sank in the Marlborough Sounds in 1986 and it is claimed that it is the largest easily accessible wreck in the world. Tours to this wreck can be booked at diving shops and travel agents throughout the country. Diving equipment can be hired from the various diving or sports shops. At some of the more popular diving areas there are also diving schools. Divers should remember to bring their diving licence and logbook. For details about diving in New Zealand contact: New Zealand Underwater Association, PO Box 875, Auckland 1 ☎ (09) 895 456, Fax (09) 897 051.

Skiing New Zealand offers some of the best skiing in the Southern Hemisphere. The large ski fields have all the necessary facilities and ski equipment can be hired. The season varies from place to place but it is usually from June to October. In the North Island the best fields are to be found within Tongariro National Park. Whakapapa and Turoa ski fields both lie on the slopes of Mt Ruapehu, an active volcano. Needless to say the slopes will be closed in case of an eruption! In the South Island the best skiing is in the vicinity of the Southern Lakes, around Queenstown and Wanaka. The skiing is fantastic and the scenery even more so. The main ski areas are Coronet Peak and The Remarkables near Queenstown and Treble Cone and Cadrona near Wanaka. Treble Cone is more suited to experienced skiers whereas Cadrona has a number of runs suitable for beginners. Another excellent ski region is Mt Hutt, not too far from Christchurch. Mt Hutt has the longest ski season in the country. It lasts from the end of May to the start of November. Even closer to Christchurch is the Porter Heights ski area. Apart from the commercial fields there are also a number of smaller club fields. Facilities here are generally simpler than at the commercial fields but they tend to be cheaper and the skiing can be just as good. Club fields close to Christchurch include Temple Basin, Craigieburn, Broken River, Cheeseman and Mount Olympus. Mt Robert is located inside Nelson Lakes National Park and Amuri is near Hanmer Springs.

304

Club fields in the North Island are Manganui on the slopes of Mt Egmont (Taranaki) and Tukino on Mt Ruapehu. The Waiorau Nordic ski area is situated in the Pisa Range near Wanaka. This is New ZealandÕs only commercial cross-country ski area and offers around 15 miles (25km) of prepared trails. Heliskiing is possible from Wanaka, Queenstown, Mt Cook, Fox Glacier and Methven. Companies offering heliskiing trips include Harris Mountains Heliskiing, Wanaka ☎ (03) 443 7930, Mt Hutt Helicopter, Methven ☎ (03) 302 8401 and Alpine Guides Westland, Fox Glacier ☎ (03) 751 0825.

Tramping (Trekking) New Zealanders refer to trekking in their national and forest parks as tramping. The main tracks are usually very well marked and there is a good system of huts providing simple accommodation in both types of park. Some of the more popular tracks can get rather overcrowded during the summer but there are plenty of lesser known and often equally beautiful tracks that can be walked instead. New ZealandÕs most popular walks are classified as ÔGreat WalksÕ. They are: Lake Waikaremoana, Te Urewera National Park (NP); Tongariro Northern Circuit, Tongariro NP; Whanganui Journey, Whanganui NP (actually a 5 day canoe trip); Abel Tasman Coastal Track, Abel Tasman NP; Heaphy Track, Kahurangi NP; Routeburn Track, Mt Aspiring/Fiordland NP; Kepler Track, Fiordland NP; Rakiura Track, Stewart Island. The Milford Track is certainly a ÔGreat WalkÕ but is in a class all of its own Ñ see Chapter 9. The huts in New ZealandÕs national, maritime and forest parks are divided into four categories. Category One is the best and these huts have stoves, bunks with mattresses, toilet and washing facilities and maybe even lighting and other ÔluxuriesÕ. Categories two and three have at least toilets, bunks and a water supply but category four is not much more than a (at least free) roof over the head. In the national parks, wardens collect hut fees from November to April. However huts can be paid for in advance at any Park Visitor Centre or DOC office. Hut fees should always be paid whether a warden is present or not. The back country hut tickets (what you get if you pay for huts in advance) that can be used on most walks are not valid on the Great Walks. These require a special Great Walks Pass for the walk in question. Such passes are available at DOC offices or Park Visitor Centres near each walk. The use of huts is on a first come first served basis, therefore it is a good idea to bring a tent during the peak season. Camping, however, is only allowed at designated camping sites Ñ contact local DOC offices. To go tramping in New Zealand you need to have the right equipment. A pair of good quality walking books, a backpack that is comfortable to wear even when it is fully loaded, wet weather gear and warm clothing (even in summer) are all essential equipment for longer walks in the national parks. As the huts on some walks are quite far apart it is wise to carry a tent or at least a fly in case you do not make it to the hut in daylight. Also important to carry is a torch, eating utensils, candles, a first aid kit and a portable stove Ñ the firewood provided in the huts should only be used when really necessary. Enough food should be carried to last for the duration of the walk as you cannot buy food at the huts. The food should be 305

high in energy and as light as possible. Bring extra rations in case of unforeseen delays.

Safety tips ¥ Giardia parasites have been found in many of New ZealandÕs rivers and lakes so it is important to treat the water before you drink it. ¥ Always fill out the intentions form at a DOC office or Park Visitor Centre before setting out on a walk. ¥ Check the difficulty of a track before you set out. If you have doubts about a certain track get advice from the local DOC or Park Visitor Centre. ¥ Do not tramp alone. Before setting out on a walk it is important to have a good topographical map showing the track in question. These maps are available from DOC offices, local bookshops and Park Visitor Centres. There are walking maps for each national park. This book cannot and does not attempt to replace a good tramping guide. Inexperienced trampers are strongly advised to buy one of the tramping manuals or guides that are available in bookshops all over New Zealand. They have detailed descriptions of many of the countryÕs most interesting tracks as well as tips on safety, what to take, etc.

White Water Rafting For those who like to get wet while having their thrills, then white water rafting is ideal. It is offered on many of the countryÕs rivers, both in the North and South Islands. Some of the most exciting rivers to raft include the Motu River near Opotiki in the North Island and the Karamea River in the South Island. The rivers are graded from 1 to 6, though grade 6 is only of theoretical interest as rivers of this grade are considered unraftable.

TELEPHONES In New Zealand there is no longer a government monopoly on the phone system. For long-distance calls local subscibers can choose between Telecom and Clear. Public phones and local calls are, however, still controlled by Telecom. Most new public telephones are operated with phone cards and in the larger towns and cities it is sometimes possible to use credit cards. Phone cards are available from many Visitor Information Centres, hostels, hotels or those shops that advertise the fact. In some rural areas where only coin-operated phones are available it is useful to have a pocketful of 20c coins. A local call made from a public booth costs 20c a minute. Local calls from private telephones cost either nothing or only a nominal fee. In New Zealand, area codes are known as STD codes. The STD codes in the North Island are: Auckland and Northland (09), Coromandel Peninsula, Bay of Plenty and Central North Island (07), East Coast (East Cape), lower central North Island and Taranaki (06) and for the Wellington region (04). For all the South Island and Stewart Island the STD code is (03). 306

STD codes are used when calling long distance within the country and even within a region if the town you are calling is some distance from you. 0800 numbers are toll free numbers. Remember that, when using a cardphone it is still necessary to insert the card even with an 0800 number.

International Public phones are expensive to use for international calls, if possible it is better to use a private phone. Many hotels and hostels have cardphones for their guests which is a convenient way of avoiding extra costs. Those places without their own cardphones will often allow guests to use their phones if they make a price required call Ñ see below. When making an international call, dial the international code you require and drop the first zero of the number you are ringing. Instructions for direct dialling are also in the phone directories. There are reduced telephone call rates to a number of countries outside New Zealand. Details of rates and the times to which they apply are listed in local telephone directories.

Main international direct dialling codes are: Australia Britain Irish Republic New Zealand USA and Canada

0061 0044 00353 0064 001

Other services: National Directory 018 International Directory 0172 National Tolls 010 International Tolls 0170

Price-required calls are useful when telephoning long-distance or internationally. After making a price required call the operator will ring back and tell you what it cost. When dialling internationally drop the 00 of your country code and replace it with 016 (eg. to Britain: 016-44). For longdistance calls within New Zealand dial 013 and drop the zero of the area code (eg. to Auckland: 013-9).

TIME New Zealand is 12 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time, however daylight saving during the summer in New Zealand and in other countries means that this can vary. Daylight Saving Time in New Zealand starts on the last Sunday in October and finishes on the first Sunday of March. The clocks are put ahead 1 hour. During Daylight Saving Time (New Zealand), when it is 12 noon in New Zealand it is: 6pm in New York 11pm in London 5pm in Chicago 10am in Sydney 6pm in Montreal 3pm in San Francisco

TIPPING Is not customary in hotels or restaurants but it is becoming more common to tip for excellent service. 307

TOURIST OFFICES Local Offices Opening times have only been given for the more important Visitor Centres. As a rule of thumb one can expect that they (and National Park Visitor Centres) will usually be open between 8.30am and 5pm, Monday to Friday. In summer many are often open at weekends, especially in the larger parks. Many of the tours mentioned in this guide can be booked through one of the various Visitor Information Centres. All the larger offices will also assist visitors with hotel bookings and travel reservations. On arrival in Auckland it is certainly worthwhile visiting the main Visitor Information Centre as they can provide you with many useful tips for your stay. The head office of the New Zealand Tourism Board Offices (NZTB) is in Wellington ☎ (04) 472 8860, Fax (04)478 1736. They have a very useful site on the Internet. From their web site it is even possible to send electronic postcards back home. All you need to do is find an internet cafe in one of the main towns or cities; for instance at Downtown Queen Street Backpackers in Auckland. Their web address is: http://www.nztb.govt.nz/ index.html

New Zealand Tourism Board Offices Overseas Australia

Canada

Ground Floor 288 Edward Street Brisbane Qld 4000 ☎ (7) 221 3176 Fax (7) 221 3178

Suite 1200-888, Dunsmuir Street Vancouver, BC, V6C 3K4 ☎ (604) 684 2117 Fax (604) 684 1265

Level 19 Como Office Tower 644 Chapel Street South Yarra Melbourne, Victoria 3141 ☎ (3) 823 6283 Fax (3) 823 6276

New Zealand House Haymarket, London SW1Y 4TQ ☎ (071) 973 0363 Fax (071) 839 8929

Prudential Finance House 84 Pitt Street Sydney New South Wales 2000 ☎ (2) 221 7333 Fax (2) 235 0737

308

UK

USA 1825 North Lincoln Plaza Suite 603, Chicago IL 60614 ☎ (312) 587 1190 Fax (312) 587 1192 501 Santa Monica Blvd #300 Santa Monica, CA 90401 Freephone 1 800 388 5494 (this number may be called from anywhere in the USA for information about New Zealand) Fax (310) 295 5453

TRAVELLING TO NEW ZEALAND Most people arrive in New Zealand by air. The main entry point is Auckland International Airport but there are also international airports at Wellington in the North Island and Christchurch in the South Island. The flight from Britain via the USA/Canada or South-east Asia takes about 30 hours. Because it is such a long, tiring flight it is a good idea to plan a stop-over en route. Air New Zealand offers stop-overs in Fiji, West Samoa, Tonga and a number of other destinations as well. Other interesting stopovers can be made with Cathay Pacific in Hong Kong; Singapore Airlines in Singapore; Thai Airways in Bangkok; Malaysian Airlines in Kuala Lumpur; United Airlines in San Francisco, Los Angeles or Hawaii; Qantas in Sydney or Melbourne and Canadian Airlines in Toronto or Hawaii. All these options and others are best discussed with your local travel agent. Another very interesting possibility is a ÔRound the WorldÕ ticket. They do not cost much more than a normal return ticket and give you have an even greater choice of stop-over destinations. Most importantly, take the time and shop around for the best deals. Prices can vary substantially. The socalled bucket shops are often quite a bit cheaper than the regular travel agents. Note that baggage allowance is much more generous on flights that go via the United States than those via Asia. Visitors from the USA and Canada will find the ÔCircle Pacific TicketsÕ good value. These tickets link the American west coast with destinations in Australia, New Zealand, the Pacific Islands and Asia; in other words you circle the Pacific region. Your local travel agent will have all the details about these tickets and the restrictions that apply. Departure Tax: For international flights is NZ$20.

TRAVELLING WITHIN NEW ZEALAND Air Services The main domestic airlines are Air New Zealand and Ansett New Zealand. Mt Cook Airline is partly owned by Air New Zealand. There are regular flight connections between Auckland, Wellington, Hamilton, Palmerston North, Christchurch, Dunedin and Invercargill. Ansett and Mt Cook airlines also fly the popular tourist route Rotorua Ñ Christchurch Ñ Mount Cook Ñ Queenstown. This is obviously a good alternative to travelling overland if you have limited time. There are a number of discounts available on inland flights which can make flying within New Zealand reasonably economical. The Air New Zealand ÔExplore New Zealand AirpassÕ can only be bought outside the country and is valid on all inland flights with Air New Zealand or airlines belonging to ÔAir New Zealand LinkÕ (Mt Cook Airline, Air Nelson & Eagle Air). Though the route and number of flights have to be fixed before departure the times for the flights can be decided on arrival. AnsettÕs ÔNew Zealand AirpassÕ can be bought overseas or in New Zealand. Those who buy it overseas save 121/2 per cent GST (Government Service Tax). The advantage of AnsettÕs airpass is that it is possible to change your itinerary 309

within New Zealand at any time. All you are required to do is to pay a (not too expensive) surcharge. With Air New Zealand you can only alter your flight route up to the point where you take your first flight. After that you have to stick to the routes you have chosen. As details of the above can change, please check with your travel agent. Both Air New Zealand and Ansett Airlines offer substantial discounts (50 per cent) to holders of International Student Identity Cards, YHA cards and VIP Backpackers cards. These discounts only apply to standby flights but you usually have a good chance of getting on. Even if you do not intend staying at YHA hostels or backpackers hostels it could be well worth your while getting one of these cards. If you can at all afford it, take one of the spectacular scenic flights that are offered in New Zealand. ÔFlightseeingÕ trips over the volcanoes of Tongariro National Park and the Southern Alps are especially rewarding. The Additional Information sections at the end of each chapter in this book have details about especially interesting flights. Air New Zealand Head Office 29 Customs Street West Auckland ☎ (09) 379 755 Fax (09) 388 075

Ansett New Zealand PO Box 4168, Auckland ☎ (09) 309 6235 Fax (09) 309 6434 Mount Cook Airline PO Box 4644, Christchurch Freephone 0800 800 737

Bus Services The main bus companies in New Zealand are InterCity, Newmans and Mount Cook Landline. Of these it is InterCity that offers the most extensive service. Virtually all of the countryÕs larger towns can be reached by bus. In addition to the main bus companies there are a number of smaller operators who offer services within a particular region. See Additional Information at the end of each chapter for details of local operators. Off the main routes, travel by bus can be rather slow as one often has to change buses which can result in lengthy waits. All the main bus companies publish free timetables which also have details of the many discounts available. It pays to be aware of these discounts as travel by bus can be rather expensive. Holders of YHA and VIP Backpackers cards are entitled to 30 per cent discounts on the main bus lines. Discounts of 30 per cent are also available to persons over 60 years of age and for the disabled. If you travel overnight between Auckland and Wellington with an InterCity or Newmans bus you can also save money. An interesting option for those who want to do a lot of travelling within a short time is Travelpass New Zealand. The 3 in 1 Travelpass allows unlimited travel on Tranz ScenicÕs long-distance trains, InterCity Coachlines bus network and also on the Interislander ferries. Travelpass lets you choose your itinerary and may be used for 5 days travel over 10 days or up to 22 days travel over 8 weeks. There is also a 4 in 1 Travelpass that includes an Air New Zealand National and Link flight. Travel agents will have more details on this and other options. 310

ÔBackpackerÕ or ÔalternativeÕ buses provide a tour rather than just a simple bus connection along the routes they follow. Budget accommodation along each route is pre-booked and there are plenty of stops for the sights and activities along the way. The atmosphere on these buses is very relaxed and they are definitely bettered tailored to the needs of independent or budget visitors than are the normal buses. Backpacker buses in New Zealand include the ÔKiwi ExperienceÕ, ÔMagic BusÕ and ÔWest Coast ExpressÕ. The first two operate in both the North and South Islands, whereas the latter only operates between Nelson and Queenstown along the West Coast. For more information and bookings, contact the Visitor Information Centres or the various YHA and backpacker hostels in New Zealand.

ÔBackpackerÕ/ÕAlternativeÕ Buses (a selection): Green Beetle Bus Co PO Box 31-228 Auckland 1330 ☎ (09) 358 4874 Fax (09) 354 4871 5-6 day tours around Northland Kiwi Experience 36 Customs Street East PO Box 1553 Auckland ☎ (09) 366 1665 Magic Bus ☎ (09) 358 5600 West Coast Express YHA Nelson ☎ (03) 548 8817

Main Bus Companies: InterCity InterCity Travel Centre Sky City Coach Terminal Sky City 102 Hobson St Auckland ☎ (09) 357 8400 Fax (09) 270 5383 Mount Cook Landline PO Box 4644 Christchurch ☎ (03) 319 5012 Freephone 0800 800 737 Newmans Coachlines PO Box 90 821 Auckland ☎ (09) 309 9738 Freephone 0800 777 707

Car and Campervan Campervans Travelling by campervan is a very popular way of getting around New Zealand. Costs for a smaller (2 beds) campervan with one of the main hire firms start at around NZ$100-$150 per day but prices vary greatly according to the season. Some local operators may offer Ôno frillsÕ two berth campers for NZ$70 or less but, as with cars, it pays to check conditions. Auckland is the best place to start looking for local bargains but those who prefer to have transport prearranged will find that travel agents in their home country can get reasonable discounts with the main companies. Note that it can be cheaper to travel by car and to stay at camping grounds or hostels. Reservations for campervans are necessary in the high season (December to March).

311

Brits Auckland ☎ (09) 275 9090 Fax (09) 275 1834 Horizon Auckland ☎ (09) 307 8226

Maui Auckland ☎ (09) 275 3013 Fax (09) 275 9690 Newmans Auckland ☎ (09) 303 1149

Car Rental A car is a good way to get around New Zealand if you plan to do a lot of travelling. The main roads are generally very good though minor roads may be unsealed. These unsurfaced roads are only covered by gravel and are much slower to drive. The distances between gas/petrol stations (especially in the South Island) can be considerable. It is best to fill up the tank before it gets too low. To rent a car you must be at least 21 years of age and you need to have held your driving licence for at least one year. Car insurance is obligatory for rental cars. Remember: it always pays to read the small print before signing the contract. The main international car rental firms are Avis, Budget and Hertz. These companies have offices in all New ZealandÕs main cities, towns and airports. Apart from them there are also many local firms which are often cheaper. Because of the stiff competition, Auckland is the best place to start looking around for a good deal. The average price for a medium sized car with unlimited mileage is around NZ$60-$100 per day but this depends on the season, duration of rental and so forth. Prices can vary greatly from dealer to dealer so shop around and haggle, it can help! If you wish to drive on both main islands it pays to find out whether or not you have to take your car on the ferry or whether you can leave it in Wellington and pick up another one in Picton. One-way rentals can be very practical when possible. For instance you could rent your car in Auckland and then hand it over in Christchurch or Queenstown and fly back north. This saves all the driving and you do not have the expense of the Cook Strait Ferry. Often it is only the larger companies that offer such one-way rentals. Avis Building 4 Central Park 666 Great South Road Auckland ☎ (09) 525 1982 Fax (09) 373 5830 Budget 83 Beach Road Auckland ☎ (09) 379 6768 or Freephone 0800 652 227 Fax (09) 366 0210

312

Hertz Auckland 154 Victoria St Auckland ☎ (09) 309 0989 Fax (09) 373 5923 Ace Tourist Rentals Ltd 39 The Strand Parnell Auckland ☎ (09) 303 3112 Fax (09) 309 2258 This local company offers secondhand cars at very reasonable rates

Carshare Sharing not only the ride but also the fuel costs with private motorists is an interesting alternative to hitch-hiking. Travelpool-Travelshare in Auckland and Wellington organise carshares to destinations anywhere in New Zealand. The carshare office basically puts motorists offering a lift in contact with people wanting a lift. On top of the cost of fuel for the trip (worked out between passenger and motorist) there is also a modest commission fee to be paid. However it still works out cheaper than either bus or train. ☎ Auckland (09) 307 0001 or Wellington (04) 473 5558. Calls are taken daily 8am-9pm.

Breakdown Services The AA (Automobile Association) have emergency breakdown services available to their members or members of affiliated motor clubs overseas. Short-term membership (6 months) is available for foreigners. AA offices are found throughout New Zealand. Some local garages also have their own tow-trucks. If you do breakdown and are a long way from any phone then do not despair. Eventually some passing motorist is bound to stop and offer you help. New Zealanders are renowned for their friendliness and what is (in this case) more important, their practical ways. Many foreign visitors come away with the impression that every second Kiwi is a mechanic! Automobile Association (AA), 33 Wyndham Street, Auckland ☎ (09) 377 4660

Driving Regulations Australian, UK, American and Canadian drivers only require their valid national driving licences. This enables the motorist to drive for a period of up to one year in New Zealand. New Zealanders drive on the left-hand side of the road. At intersections you must give way to all traffic crossing or approaching from your right. If you yourself are turning you must give way to all traffic not turning. The New Zealand road code is readily available from most bookshops or AA offices. The speed limit on the open road is 100kph (62mph), in urban areas it is 50kph (31mph). The sign LSZ stands for ÔLimited Speed ZoneÕ. This is an area where the speed limit is usually 100kph but when visibility, etc, is low a 50kph speed limit applies. Road signs in New Zealand generally keep to the international standards and should present no problem for overseas motorists. Seat belts are compulsory. The legal limit for alcohol while driving is .08. The penalties for drinking and driving are very high.

Inter-Island Ferries The Interislander ferry operates between Wellington on the North Island and Picton on the South Island. The ferry takes cars as well as passengers. From Wellington there are three to four sailings daily and the crossing takes about three hours. In the high season (December to January) and holiday periods it is necessary to book well ahead if you are taking a car.

313

As the trip with the ferry takes you through the picturesque Marlborough Sounds it is best to do the crossing in daylight. Bear in mind that the crossing can be quite rough. There is a free bus service between the Wellington Interislander terminal and Wellington Railway Station. Buses leave Platform 9 at the railway station 35 minutes before scheduled sailings between 8am and 6.40pm. In Picton a free bus service is provided for passengers connecting with Coastal Pacific Express to Christchurch. However this service only applies to the 10am sailing from Wellington. The Lynx catamaran is a new service between Wellington and Picton. It is promoted as one of the fastest passenger and car carriers in the world. Time required for the journey is 13/4 hours. Like the Interislander it connects at either end of its journey with the major train routes. For bookings and enquiries see under Train below.

Train Tranz ScenicÕs long-distance trains link the main cities and are quite modern and comfortable. They often travel along particularly scenic routes and snacks are served on board. Most rail services also have a buffet car. Smoking is not allowed on any of the trains.

North Island The Overlander is the daytime daily rail service between Auckland and Wellington. The Northerner does the overnight run between Auckland and Wellington. Sunday to Friday. The Kaimai Express runs daily between Tauranga and Auckland. The Geyserland runs twice daily between Auckland and Rotorua. The Bay Express runs daily between Wellington and Napier.

South Island The Coastal Pacific runs daily between Christchurch and Picton. The 10am Interislander Ferry from Wellington connects with Coastal Pacific. The Coastal Pacific departs Christchurch at 8.15am to connect with ferry departing Picton at 2.20pm. The TranzAlpine runs daily between Christchurch and Greymouth. This is a spectacular trip across the Southern Alps. The Southerner runs between Christchurch and Invercargill, Monday to Friday. For more information and bookings concerning both rail and inter-island ferry links contact: Tranz Scenic Tranz Rail Ltd Private Bag Railway Station Wellington (Correspondence)

Tranz Scenic Reservations (also for Inter-Island Ferries) ☎ 0800 802 802 (toll free within New Zealand) 7am-9pm daily Fax 0800 101 525 (toll free)

From other countries: ☎ 0064 4 498 3301 Fax 0064 4 498 3089

314

VISITORS GUIDES * * * * *

Practical guides for the independent visitor Written in the form of touring itineraries Full colour illustrations and maps Detailed Landmark FactFile of practical information Landmark Visitors Guides highlight all the interesting places you will want to see, so ensuring that you make the most of your visit

1.

Britain Cornwall Cotswolds & Shakespeare Country* Devon Dorset East Anglia Guernsey Hampshire

Jersey Kent Lake District* Peak District Scotland* Somerset Yorkshire Dales & York

2.

Europe Bruges Cracow Italian Lakes* Madeira

Provence* Riga Tallinn

3.

Other Dominican Republic India: Goa India: Kerala & The South The Gambia St Lucia*

Florida Keys* Florida: Gulf Coast* Orlando & Central Florida* New Zealand*

Landmark Publishing

Waterloo House, 12 Compton, Ashbourne, Derbyshire DE6 IDA England Tel: 01335 347349 Fax: 01335 347303 e-mail: [email protected] Catalogue sent on request

*In the USA order from:

Hunter Publishing Inc,

130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 Tel: (732) 225 1900 or (800) 255 0343 Fax: (732) 417 0482 www.hunterpublishing.com

315

I n d ex A Abel Tasman NP172 Accommodation 288 Akaroa 276 Alexandra 253 Anaura Bay 129 Angling 300 Arrowtown 214 Art Deco 134 ArthurÕ s Pass National Park 269 Auckland 35 Aupouri Forest 65

B

Cape Palliser Cape Reinga Castlepoint Catlins Forest Park Chatham Islands Christchurch Climate Clyde Colville Cooks Beach CookÕ s Cove Walkway Coromandel Coromandel Range Cromwell Curio Bay Customs Regulations Cycling

Balclutha 243 Banks Peninsula 275 Bay of Islands 61 Black stilts 264 Bluff 236 Buller Gorge 192 D Bungy Jumping 216,301 Dargaville Devonport Disabled C Facilities Dolphins Doubtful Canoeing Sound & Kayaking 301 Canterbury 262 Drink Dunedin Cape Kidnappers 136 Duntroon 316

149 E 68 149 East Cape 126 Egmont 240 National Park 113 Embassies 294 277 269 292 F 253 82 Fauna 21 84 Featherston 149 Festivals 295 129 Film 12 81 Fiordland National Park 220 83 Flagstaff Hill 64 214 Flightless Birds 246 240 Flora 20 Food 24 291 Fox Glacier 302 Village 200

G 71 GabrielÕ s Gully 41 Geography Geraldine 294 Gisbourne 111 Glaciers Glenorchy 225 Golf 25 Great Barrier 243 Island 250 Greymouth

243 25 265 129 197 218 302 46 194

H

K

Haast 201 Haast Pass 202 Hahei 84 Hamilton 86 Harmony Gardens 83 Hastings 136 Hauraki Gulf Maritime Park 45 Health 296 Hicks Bay 128 Hokitika 196 Hollyford Track 223 HongiÕ s Track 104 Horse Trekking 302 Huka Falls 105 Hukutaia Domain 128

Kapiti Island Karamea Kauaeranga Valley Kauri Kauri Park Kawau Island Kawhia Kea Kepler Track Kerikeri Kingston steam train Kiwi spotting Kuaotunu

I Insurance International Antarctic Centre Invercargill

296 274 236

J Jacks Bay Blowhole Jet Boating

241 303

Lanarch Castle 248 Language 296 Lindis Pass 254 156 12 192 Literature Little Barrier Island 46 81 66 69 M 60 88 Macetown 214 195 Mackenzie 223 Country 264 64 Mahia

Peninsula 132 220 Makarora 202 238 Mangaweka 110 83 Mangonui 65 Manutuke 131 Maori Art 18 L Maori Cultural Lake Dunstan 214 Tours 297 Lake Ianthe 197 Maori Hangi 104 Lake Maoritanga 13 Manapouri 225 Martinborough 151 Lake Marian 224 Masterton 149 Lake Matheson 200 Matakohe 71 Lake Moeraki 200 Matauri Bay 64 Lake Paringa 200 Meeting houses 13 Lake Rotorua 104 Methven 268 Lake Tarawera 102 Milford Sound 224 Lake Taupo 05 Milford Track 223 Lake Tekapo 265 Moa-hunters 15 Lake Waikaremoana Moeraki 249 132 Mokoia Island 101 Lake Wakatipu 217 Morere 132 317

I n d ex Motu River 128 Mount Aspiring National Park 212 Mount Cook National Park 195,263 Mount Cook Village 262 Mountaineering 303 Mt Bruce Wildlife Centre 148 Mt Egmont 113

Omahuta Forest Sanctuary 69 Omarama 250 One Tree Hill 44 Oparara Basin 192 Opotiki 127 Orakei Korako 105 Otago Peninsula 245 Owaka 241

N

Paeroa 85 Paihia 61 Paparoa National Park 193 Papatowai 241 Paraki Hot Springs 71 Paraparaumu 156 Parengarenga Harbour 65 Pipiriki 145 Politics 26 Population 32 Port Charles 82 Port Jackson 82 Public Holidays 299 Purakaunui Falls 241 Pureora Forest Park 89

Napier Naseby National Park Visitor Centres National Parks New Plymouth Ninety Mile Beach Norsewood Northland Nugget Point

133 252 298 26 112 68 137 59 241

O Oamaru Oban Ohakune Okarito Lagoon 318

249 237 109 197

P

Q Queenstown

216

R Raetihi 145 Raglan 88 Ranfurly 252 Rangatikei River Adventures 110 Rangitoto 46 Rawene 69 Restaurants 299 Ross 196 Rotorua 100 Ruatapu Cave 105 Russell 62

S Sandfly Scuba Diving Shag Point Shantytown Siberia Experience Skiing St Bathans Stewart Island Stratford

199 304 249 196 202 304 252 237 110

T

V

Taiaroa Head 245 Taieri Gorge Railway 248 Taihape 109 Takahe 221 Tapu 81 Taranaki 10 Tasman Glacier 263 Tauranga 99 Tauranga Bay 192 Te Anau 221 Te Kaha 128 Te Kao 65 Te Kuiti 89 Te Papa Tongarewa 153 Te Urewera National Park 132 Te Wairoa 103 Telephones 306 Thames 80 Tikitere 102 Timaru 268 Tiritiri Matangi 47 Tolaga Bay 129 Tongariro National Park 108 Tourist Offices 308 Tramping 305 TupaeaÕ s Cavern 129 Turuturu Mokai Pa 115 Twizel 264

Volcanoes

108

W Waiheke Island 45 Waihi 85 Waikato 9 Waimangu 102 Waiotapu 102 Waipoua Kauri Forest 69 Wairakei 105 Wairarapa 148 Waitangi 61 Waitangi, Treaty of 9 Waitomo 88 Waiwera 59 Wanaka 212 Wanganui 15,143 Warkworth 60 Wellington 151 Westland National Park 197 Westport 191 Whakapapa Village 108 Whakarewarewa 100 Whakatane 99 Whangamata 85 Whanganui National Park 146

Whangarei 60 Whangaroa 65 Whare Whakairo 19 White Herons of Whataroa 197 White Island 99 White Water Rafting 306 Whitianga 84 Wine 130

319

Published by

Landmark Publishing Ltd,

Waterloo House, 12 Compton, Ashbourne, Derbyshire DE6 1DA England Tel: 01335 347349 Fax: 01335 347303 e-mail: [email protected] Published in the USA by

Hunter Publishing Inc,

130 Campus Drive, Edison NJ 08818 Tel: (732) 225 1900, (800) 255 0343 Fax: (732) 417 0482 Web site: www.hunterpublishing.com 2nd Edition

ISBN 1 901 522 36 9

© Grant Bourne & Sabine Kšrner-Bourne 1999 The right of Grant Bourne & Sabine Kšrner-Bourne as authors of this work has been asserted by them in accordance with the Copyright, Design and Patents Act, 1993. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior permission of Landmark Publishing Ltd. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data: a catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Print: Editoriale Libraria, Trieste, Italy Cartography: James Allsopp Design: Samantha Witham Cover Pictures

Front: Abel Tasman NP Back top: Mt Ruapehu, Tongariro NP Back bottom: Auckland Harbour

Picture Credits Authors: all cover photos, 3, 6/7,10,11 both, 14/15, 18,23 all, 26B, 30, 32 all, 35, 39T, 42, 47, 55T&M, 63, 67, 79, 82, 83, 87 both, 91, 114 both, 122T, 122L, 131B, 134M, 138B, 143, 154 both, 158 all, 166, 175M&B, 182T&M, 183, 191, 195k 198, 199, 206 both, 214M, 218T&M, 222 both, 234, 238, 239, 242M, 247, 251 all, 254 both, 258, 267B, 270M&B, 271B New Zealand Tourism: 22, 26M, 39B, 42 insert, 51, 55B, 62, 74T, 90 both, 98, 107 all, 115, 122R, 126, 131T, 134T&B, 135, 138T, 150 all, 163 both, 175T, 182B, 190, 203both, 207, 210, 211, 214T&B, 218B, 227, 242T&B, 246, 262, 266, 267T, 270T, 271T Destination Northland Ltd: 19 both, 26T, 59, 70 all, 71, 74M, 74B both, 75, 111 both Whaleway Station Kaikoura: 178 both

The Publishers would like to thank the London office of New Zealand Tourism for permission to reproduce their pictures. DISCLAIMER Whilst every care has been taken to ensure that the information in this book is as accurate as possible at the time of publication, the publishers and author accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by anyone using this book.