New Directions in Anthropology 9781782386148, 1571819207, 2002018402, 1782386149

Table of contents :
Frontmatter
List of Illustrations (page vii)
Acknowledgements (page x)
Foreword (page xii)
1. Burano, Venice and The Lagoon (page 1)
Burano (page 6)
The Fieldwork (page 9)
Burano's Population and the Politics of Housing (page 13)
Proposals for Restoration (page 21)
2. A Sense of History (page 37)
Burano's Fishermen as Comic Stereotypes in Renaissance Drama (page 44)
The History of the Northern Lagoon from the Works of Vincenzo Coronelli, and from Flaminio Corner's Ecclesiastical History (page 45)
The O-Tai-Tans of the Lagoons (page 47)
From Foreign Occupation to Internal Colonialism. Three Government Reports (page 50)
3. Religion and Social Change (page 65)
4. Kinship and Residence (page 75)
Residence (page 76)
Kinship terminology (page 85)
Ritual Kinship (page 89)
The Physical Bases of Kinship (page 90)
Socialisation, Gender and Change (page 91)
A Concern with Endogamy (page 101)
Names, Surnames and Nicknames (page 106)
5. Stratification (page 117)
6. Honour and Shame in Mediterranean Anthropology (page 133)
Some British Anthropological Views of Mediterranean Honour (page 134)
The Notion of Shame: History and Translation (page 142)
Uses of Vergogna in Contemporary Italian (page 149)
7. Burano's Lace-Making: an Honourable Craft (page 155)
The Making (page 156)
Present Conditions (page 157)
The History (page 163)
Lacemaking from the Sixteenth to the Eighteenth Century (page 166)
Social Structure and Poverty in Eighteenth Century Burano (page 169)
From the Nineteenth Century to the Present (page 173)
The Beginnings of Lace (page 178)
Social Change and Fathers' Authority (page 181)
8. Devolution from the Grass-roots: Local Interest against Ideology (page 191)
The Chironomidi (page 191)
The May 1990 Administrative Elections (page 199)
Consigli di Quartiere (page 204)
A Doctor's Duties (page 215)
Conclusions (page 223)
Appendix 1: The Venetian Territory and its Population (page 229)
Appendix 2: Law 16 April 1973. Interventions for the Safeguard of Venice (page 231)
Appendix 3: Census (page 233)
Bibliography (page 235)
Index (page 244)

Citation preview

A VENETIAN ISLAND

New Directions in Anthropology General Editor: Jacqueline Waldren, /nstitute of Social Anthropology, University of Oxford

Volume 1 Coping with Tourists: European Reactions to Mass Tourism Edited by Jeremy Boissevain Volume 2 A Sentimental Economy: Commodity and Community in Rural Ireland Carles Salazar Volume 3 — Insiders and Outsiders: Paradise and Reality in Mallorca Jacqueline Waldren Volume 4 — The Hegemonic Male: Masculinity in a Portuguese Town Miguel Vale de Almeida

Volume 5 Communities of Faith: Sectarianism, Identity, and Social Change on a Danish Island Andrew S. Buckser Volume 6 After Socialism: Land Reform and Rural Social Change in Eastern Europe Edited by Ray Abrahams Volume 7 = Immigrant and Bureaucrats: Ethiopians in an Israeli Absorption Center

Esther Hertzog Volume 8 A Venetian Island: Environment, History and Change in Burano Lidia D. Sciama Volume 9 Recalling the Belgian Congo: Conversations and Introspection

Marie-Bénédicte Dembour Volume 10 Mastering Soldiers: Conflict, Emotions, and the Enemy in an Israeli Military Unit Eyal Ben-Ari Volume 11 The Great Immigration: Russian Jews in Israel Dina Siegel Volume 12 Morals of Legitimacy: Between Agency and System Edited by Italo Pardo Volume 13. Academic Anthropology and the Museum: Back to the Future Edited by Mary Bouquet Volume 14 Simulated Dreams: Israeli Youth and Virtual Zionism

Haim Hazan Volume 15 Troubles with Turtles: Cultural Understandings of the Environment in a Greek Island

Dimitrios Theodossopoulos

A VENETIAN ISLAND eSNRo Environment, History and Change in Burano

Lidia D. Sciama

Berghahn Books New York * Oxford

First published in 2003 by Berghahn Books

www.berghahnbooks.com First paperback edition published in 2006 Reprinted in 2006 © 2003 Lidia D. Sciama All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the written permission of Berghahn Books.

The Library of Congress has previously catalogued a hardback edition as follows: Sciama, Lidia D. A Venetian island : environment, history and change in Burano / Lidia D. Sciama.

p. cm. -- (New directions in anthropology ; v. 8) Includes index. ISBN 1-57181-920-7 (cloth : alk. paper) 1. Burano (Italy)--History. 2. Burano (Italy)--Social life and customs. I. Title. II. Series.

945'.31--dc21 2002018402

DG684.16.B87 S35 2002

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed in the United States on acid-free paper ISBN 1-57181-920-7 hardback ISBN 1-84545-156-2 paperback

CONTENTS Ce ~f- 2)

List of Illustrations Vil Acknowledgements Xx

Foreword Xil

Burano 6 The Fieldwork 9

1. Burano, Venice and The Lagoon 1 Buranos Population and the Politics of Housing 13

Proposals for Restoration 21

2. A Sense of History OT. Buranos Fishermen as Comic Stereotypes in Renaissance Drama 44 The History of the Northern Lagoon from the Works of Vincenzo Coronelli,

and from Flaminio Corner’s Ecclesiastical History 45

The O-Tai-Tans of the Lagoons 47

From Foreign Occupation to Internal Colonialism. Three Government Reports 50

3. Religion and Social Change 65

Residence 76 Kinship terminology 85 Ritual Kinship 89

4. Kinship and Residence 75

The Physical Bases of Kinship 90

Socialisation, Gender and Change 9]

A Concern with Endogamy 101

Contents

Names, Surnames and Nicknames 106

5. Stratification ie leg 6. Honour and Shame in Mediterranean Anthropology 133 Some British Anthropological Views of Mediterranean Honour 134

The Notion of Shame: History and Translation 142

Uses of Vergogna in Contemporary Italian 149 7. Burano’s Lace-Making: an Honourable Craft [55

The Making 156 Present Conditions 157 The History 163 Lacemaking from the Sixteenth to the Eighteenth Century 166 Social Structure and Poverty in Eighteenth Century Burano 169

From the Nineteenth Century to the Present 173

The Beginnings of Lace 178 Social Change and Fathers Authority 181

The Chironomidi 191 The May 1990 Administrative Elections 199 Consigli di Quartiere 204 A Doctors Duties 215

8. Devolution from the Grass-roots: Local Interest against Ideology 191

Conclusions 223

Appendix 1: The Venetian Territory and its Population 229 Appendix 2: Law 16 April 1973. Interventions for the Safeguard of Venice 25 |

Appendix 3: Census 233

Index 244

Bibliography ZI)

Vi

List OF ILLUSTRATIONS eKIERe

Figures 1.1 Burano from the air. Via Baldassare Galuppi (Venice, Tourist Board) 26

1.2. Ground plan of Burano (Assessorato Urbanistica) 27 1.3and1.4 The boat back from Venice. Regular commuters settle down to

some handiwork, conversation or card games 28

1.5 Children playing in Corte Comare 29

girls with girls 29

1.6 Gendered games. By the age of twelve or thirteen boys play with boys, 1.7 Life in the streets. Although most people own electrical applicances, domestic tasks are sometimes carried out in the alley, courtyard or

street outside the house 30 1.8 Grilling fish for Sunday lunch 30 1.9 Helping grandmother oa

very high shine 31 1.11 A well-earned rest a2 1.10 Children at work. Copper implements must be regularly polished to a

1.12 Old friends exchange news and gossip a2

1.13 The nursery school a3 1.14 Lace stall (Media Library of the Veneto Region) 5 is.

1.15 The market: closing time 34 Vil

List of Illustrations

well as opera 34 1.17 Boats at dusk 35 1.16 Evening at the café. Buranelli love to sing. They have a distinguished village choir with a repertoire that includes traditional folk songs, as

1.18 New housing in Mazzorbo aD 2.1. The puzzle of history (Burano, Consiglio di Quartiere) 63 2.2 The arrival of Burano’s Patron Saints, Albano, Orso and Domenico from the sea. Innocent children miraculously draw in the heavy sarcophagus

(Antonio Zanchi 1690. Parish Church of San Martino, Burano) 64 3.1. Maria Bambina. ‘Hear my prayer, oh heavenly girl, and I shall forever praise the goodness of your heart’ (Reciting the full prayer will grant 100 days’ indulgence. Cardinal D. Agostini 1885). (From the author's

collection) F2. 3.2 Madonna della Neve 7d

4.1 Nina’s household TZ

4.2 Four households 78 4.3 Marisa’s father’s father’s household 81 4.4. Marisa’s mother’s father’s household 82

4.5. Marisa’s kindred 103 4.6 Families spread through different islands 105

4.7 The transmission of nicknames 109 7.1 The island of lace. Lace and lacemaking are always emphasized in

Burano’s picture postcards. (From the author's collection) 186

Veneto Region) 187 (IRE collection) 187

7.2a Angela Adorni, Head of the Casa delle Zitelle (Media Library of the 7.2b Elisabetta Rossi, Prioress of the Hospital of Penitenti di San Giobbe

7.3. The body techniques of lacemakers and makers of fishing nets 188

198157) 189

7.4 Old lace. Two late nineteenth century borders from London's Victoria and Albert Museum (Inv. 347 and 347a, reproduced in Gambier

7.5 Contemporary lace by Lucia Costantini. Lucia’s use of colour and her introduction of her own patterns and designs are regarded as greatly

innovative and original 190 Vill

List of Illustrations

8.1 Burano’s representatives at Venice's municipal palace. ‘Comune egoista Give us a help: sport means good health. Give us back our football

pitch!’ (Il Gazzettino) 222 Maps

0.1 Benedetto Bordone, 1528. (Bodleian Library, Oxford) a. Vinegia

b. Detail: Torcello, Burano and Mazzorbo Xx

0.2 Jacopo De Barbari 1500 (Reale Fotografia Giacomelli. Original: Library of the Museo Correr, Venice) a. Venitie

b. Detail, bird’s eye view ofthe northern lagoon XX1 0.3. The lagoon’s topographical reality (Venice, Magistrato delle Acque) XXII

Navigare Bene) 2

1.1 Burano’s waterways (based on “Laguna Nord’, Carte Nautiche

Tables

1.1 Burano’s population 13

4.1 Kinship terms 86 4.2 Affinal terms 87 5.1 Venetian families in 1784 118

5.2. Burano’s population in 1784 119 5.3. Trades of Burano’s inhabitants in 1784 119

5.4 Employment statistics in 1981 120 5.5 Occupational structure in 1981 eA 5.6 Educational qualifications of Burano’s inhabitants in 1981 122

A3.1 Population of Burano according to the 1991 census Zoo A3.2 Educational qualifications for ages over 6 in Burano, 1991 234 Unless otherwise indicated, illustrations are by the author.

1x

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS eSONRo

This book has evolved over years of research and reflection. I therefore have many people to thank, first and foremost the people of Burano, who welcomed me and were always ready to enlighten me on matters they regarded as implicit common knowledge. Their natural charm, sense of humour and generous hospitality made it a privilege to work with them. Various papers based on early fieldwork reports were presented at the Thursday seminars on the Social anthropology of Women

— later Centre for Cross-cultural Research on Women — at Queen Elizabeth House, where discussion helped to deepen my then developing interest on gender aspects of Burano’s society. The Identity and Ethnicity seminar convened by S. Ardener with Tamara Dragadze, Ian Fowler and Jonathan Webber, at the Oxford Institute of Social and Cultural Anthropology offered me valued opportunities to test my ideas in a context of stimulating and constructive criticism. Many friends and colleagues encouraged me to publish the book. I particularly wish to thank Helen Callaway, Joanne Eicher, Dorothy Helly, Michael Herzfeld

and Renée Hirschon for their sensitive appreciation of my work, their goodhumoured criticisms and their invaluable suggestions. Also Peter Parkes, Robert Parkin, David Sutton and Jaqueline Waldren read early drafts of some of my chapters. Their insightful questions and advice greatly helped me to achieve greater clarity. Shirley Ardener’s long-standing interest in and positive view of my

work has been most heartening. I am grateful to the Gladys Krieble Delmas Foundation, whose grant at the very early stages of fieldwork encouraged me to persevere.

I greatly benefited by my institutional links with Somerville College, St Antony's College, Queen Elizabeth House, Wolfson College and, above all, the

Oxford Institute of Social and Cultural Anthropology. Indeed I was much encouraged to publish this work by the recent publication of Anthropologists in a Wider World (eds. P. Dresch, W. James & D. Parkin, Oxford 2000), thanks to its writers re-examination of anthropological research and their openness to long-

xX

Acknowledgements

term, and sometimes unavoidably intermittent, fieldwork in an increasingly globalized world.

With an Italian fellow-anthropologist, Gianfranco Bonesso, then working in Burano, we exchanged views and ideas. Occasionally meeting mutual friends in the island provided both stimulation and pleasure, and it was of great interest to find that gender divisions in Burano also led to a degree of specialization in our ethnographic labours, given that my understanding of lacemaking and kinship attitudes paralleled his impressive knowledge of men’s skills, and fish breeding techniques. Professors Glauco Sanga and Gianni Dore generously offered me much welcome academic hospitality at the University of Venice. I also wish to thank Mr Fulvio Roiter, one of Venice’s most accomplished and sensitive photographers, for allowing me to base the book’s cover on one of his images of Burano. My strongest gratitude goes to Dr John Campbell: his classic work on Honour,

Family and Patronage: A Study of Institutions and Moral Values in a Greek Mountain Community (Oxtord 1964) provided the main disciplinary basis for my research on Italian and Venetian society, and it is mainly due to his intellectual openness and generosity that this book was written.

I also extend my thanks to Dr Marion Berghahn, Dr Sean Kingston and Dr Jacqueline Waldren and to my anonymous peer-reviewers, whose readings undoubtedly helped to improve the Manuscript. My husband and daughters read various drafts of my chapters and provided unwavering support, advice and encouragement.

XI

FOREWORD eSONRo

This book is based on long-term fieldwork in Venice and in areas of the northern lagoon, mainly the island of Burano. My initial proposal, when I began my research for a D. Phil. thesis in 1980, was to conduct participant observation in Burano, while also maintaining a strong focus on Venice as the urban centre of which it is an integral part. In particular, I planned to analyse environmental problems in the lagoon and to examine ways in which inhabitants of Venice and Burano were attected by them and involved in their solution. Proposals put forward to repair ecological damage would illustrate relations between communities living in the island periphery and the city’s politicians and administrators at the centre. At that time my choice was undoubtedly influenced by changes and debates in anthropology, and especially critiques of structuralist studies. In particular, since the mid-1970s, critics of Mediterranean ethnographies have pointed out that attempts to describe societies as isolated and self-contained wholes had led to a proliferation of village studies in which little attention was paid to the dynamic relations of the areas observed with larger social contexts, whether cities, regions or nation states. The resulting overall picture was one of static social systems, hardly touched by change

and modernity. Such concentration on village ethnographies, it was observed, was particularly surprising for a country like Italy, where urban values were pervasive and where migration from the countryside had been quite massive, especially since the Second World War (Boissevain 1975: 11; Crump 1975: 21-22; Davis 1977: 7—20; Gilmore 1980: 3; Macdonald 1993: 5—6, and see Just 2000: 20—28). An initial theoretical problem was, therefore, the validity and usefulness of an urban/rural dichotomy — one as firmly rooted in anthropological tradition as it is in Italian culture. As we shall see, such dichotomous description did not fit my understanding of Burano, in some ways part of Venice, but in many other respects — and most importantly in its inhabitants’ view — a village, separate and difterent from it. At any rate, as emerges from recent anthropological studies in cities, too

clear-cut a distinction between urban and rural settings does not always fit ethnographic observations. For example, as Hirschon has shown in her pathXU

Foreword

breaking book on Kokkinia, an urban district between Athens and Piraeus harbour, in-depth examination of family, religious and in general moral and affective, attitudes, makes evident the continuity rather than opposition between rural and urban lifestyles and world views (1998: 232-5). That observation is also fitting for Venice, where (leaving aside its foreign trading communities that in time became integral parts of the city) street names

recall that significant groups of the working population came from its rural hinterland: workers in Murano’s glass factories, as well as many of the city’s bakers

and domestic servants, came from Friuli, while smiths moved to Venice from Bergamasque villages (Trivellato 2000: 58-62; Sanga 1979). Herzfeld thus

questions ‘the wisdom of constituting a distinctive category and separate discipline “urban anthropology”’ (Introduction to Hirschon 1998: xii). Burano too proved resistant to a rigid categorisation based on an urban/rural (or non-urban) polarity: it is in many ways a village-like community, yet is part of the citys administrative and bureaucratic structures. Although it is undoubtedly very closely tied-in with the city, it could not be treated merely as a Venetian quartiere, because it emerged as an idiosyncratic and unique community, tightly bound to Venice and yet separate and keenly conscious of long-standing differences as well as

dependencies and ties. Consequently, as I hope will become clear through my chapters, Burano eventually took centre stage, while notes on Venice are now kept in store, as part of future research on the city’s historical centre. I should, nonetheless, emphasise that far from treating the island as a discrete and closed social entity, I focused mainly on its relations with the city, and their changes through time. A challenging theoretical question concerning my position as fieldworker was readily prompted by my thesis title: Relations between Centre and Periphery in the City of Venice. A Study of Venetian Life in a Lagoon Island. Why, | was asked, had I defined Venice as the centre, Burano the periphery? Was I placing myself on one side of a power structure, whether cultural, political or economic, through which Burano was marginalised? The question was certainly thought-provoking, given that, like the urban/rural opposition, that of centre/periphery has been overlaid with polarities such

as advanced/backward, modern/traditional, complex/simple and so forth, which clearly bring to mind ethical concerns and postcolonial critiques of anthropology. A conception of cities as the main centres of social and intellectual progress has deep roots in the discourses of Italy's dominant culture. For Venice, the point is best illustrated in early maps. For example, in the work of a Renaissance cartographer, Benedetto Bordone (1500), the city is at the centre of the lagoon, enclosed within a string of beaches, the Lidos; and, while in reality the beaches are straight, in the map they are drawn as an almost circular protective wall (map f. 1,2,3). By contrast, Burano is little more than a dot on the maps north-eastern corner; with its tiny bell-tower, it appears as a distant outpost of the city and the Church. Such stylisation considerably alters the lagoon’s topographical reality (map f. 2), since, placing the city at the top of a hierarchy of human settlements, it clearly reflects an ideological stance of which present-day Buranelli are well-aware and sometimes resentful.

Xl

A Venetian Island

On reflection, while bearing in mind implications of this influential commonplace of Italian culture in terms of hierarchy and power, I have nonetheless found it unnecessary and potentially misleading to change my description of Venice and Burano as respectively centre and periphery — one I wholly share with the Buranelli’s own characterisation of their island, based, as they say, both on topography and on culture. However, I have found it useful to

make a distinction between the ‘centre’ as a space characterised by multiple elements of organisation (Hannerz 1980) and my ‘frame of reference’ as observer. Because I conducted research both in Burano and in Venice's historical centre — and often went from fieldwork to library — I clearly had a double vantage point, but in reconstructing the history of relations between inhabitants of the two areas

and looking at their interactions and mutual stereotyping, my main frame of reference was Burano and my focus its inhabitants’ viewpoints and sensitivities. Par from describing Buranelli as the passive recipients of Venetian hegemony and economic power, I have emphasised their agency, as shown, for example, by their strong sense of independence, their capacity for hard work, the efforts of

Burano’s politicians to obtain better housing and medical services through democratic debate and, not least, by the women’s virtual abandonment of unrewarding lacemaking and their rejection of strict family and social control. To come back to my fieldwork, also other — more contingent — considerations led

me to think (even against the wise advice of some of my teachers) that mine was a potentially rewarding choice. Personal reasons interacted with those of a disciplinary and academic nature, but were nonetheless integral to my work’s development: I was born and educated in Venice, but spent most of my adult life in England. Indeed, my curiosity about that city’s social life and history was undoubtedly sharpened thanks to many conversations with colleagues and friends in Oxford. When, for example, on being asked where I came from, I explained that I was Venetian, their response was frequently one of surprise. “Why’, I was told several times, ‘I didn’t think people actually /ived in Venice’. This was usually followed by further questions, such as was

Venice really sinking, was anything being done about it, and so forth, which made me feel as if I too had somehow been implicated in the culpable neglect of the city’s environment. My fieldwork in Venice was thus also connected to my relations with persons in England, where I had lived since the 1960s, and this too raised theoretical questions that I can sum up as ‘problems of representation’. Partly, my interlocutors’ interest was due to a rather unhappy and frightening circumstance — one experienced by Venetians as a ‘total event’ that had changed their attitudes and their discourses about the city: a violent flood in November 1966 (see below) had made evident both the city’s fragility and the fact that its protection had

been neglected by politicians and administrators and indeed gravely undermined through indiscriminate industrial development at the margins of the lagoon. Because

of a coincidence in time with the period of political protest and environmental concern that culminated in 1968, the predicament of Venice was often cited as a foremost example of the evils of industrialisation and capitalist greed. XIV

Foreword

Throughout the debate that followed the floods — and in witnessing the sense of alarm, and the world-wide activities of dedicated committees in publicising the city’s plight and gathering funds for its restoration — my response may have been one in which I identified mainly with Venetians: solicitude on the part of the international

community was clearly due to the status of Venice as an object of beauty and a testimony to past political and artistic achievement. It was a concern with heritage,

not always matched by true understanding of the history and the needs of the population. It was quite revealing in this respect that, with few exceptions, most historical or art-historical studies in English ended at 1797, when Venice's life as an

independent city-state came to an end. Aspects of its day-to-day contemporary existence were then overshadowed by a heightened awareness of, and interest in, the past — or, in Herzfeld’s words, the ‘monumental past’ (1991a). By contrast, to my knowledge, Venice had not yet been a subject of anthropological study. Although I was well aware that no account can uncritically claim adherence to ‘reality’, I shared with many Venetians a feeling that a steady production of historical

works, paralleled by ignorance of the population's circumstances, perpetuated a vision of Venice as a dying city, elaborated by Romantic and Decadent poets and writers, especially since its loss of political independence. Typical in this respect was Ruskin’s description of the view from Torcello’s bell-tower: “There are no living creatures near the buildings, nor any vestige of village or city round about them.’ Probably blinded by his long view of the sea, the ‘misty land of mountains touched with snow’, and Venice's ‘multitude of towers, dark and scattered among square-set shapes of clustered palaces, a long and irregular line fretting the southern sky’ (1867, II; 12) —and no doubt absorbed in the study of Torcello’s Byzantine ruins — he then entirely failed to note the lively presence of nearby overpopulated Burano. The theme

of representation, both of Venice by an international community of scholars, artlovers and tourists, and of Burano, mainly by other Venetians, is a subtext I have not developed in this work, but one present in several parts of the book. My position as ‘native’ observer also raised other theoretical problems: because I was born and brought up in Venice, my colleagues very soon asked, was I conducting

‘anthropology at home’? (Jackson 1987). Or was mine an exercise in ‘personal anthropology? (Pocock 1977). But, while I fully appreciated that my choice was clearly a departure from a well-established tradition of long-term continuous fieldwork in some remote and isolated area, I did not experience the matter as a problem, either in practical or intellectual terms. After all, as Allen writes, pointing out ‘the relativity of otherness’, ‘there is no cut-off point where otherness begins or ends’ (2000: 245). Perhaps due to my Jewish, Venetian and Italian roots, I actually find it difficult to conceive of any society or community, albeit metaphorically, as ‘home’. At that time a distinction between home/private and society/public seems to have been firmly in place in my unreflective use of language, and I still do not usually think of ‘home’ as anything other than a very intimate and personal place I associate

with the family and the hearth, certainly not opposed to, but distinct from, community and country (Du Boulay 1974: 38; Hirschon and Gold 1982: 66; XV

A Venetian Island

Sciama 1981: 101). Such divergence in my Italian, as distinct from English, understanding of ‘home’ finds validation in dictionary glosses for, while in Chambers Twentieth Century Dictionary (1949) we find home = ‘one’s house or country (my italic), Zingarelli’s Italian dictionary (1962) gives simply ‘walled edifice built for

dwelling, family, or persons who dwell together as family’. In other words, the meaning of the Italian casa does not extend to country, village or nation. However, my unease about the very idea of ‘anthropology at home’ need not be explained only in terms of lexical difference; as I hinted above, it may be due partly to personal history: I left Italy in my early twenties, settled in England on

marrying in 1960 and studied anthropology in Oxford as my second education from 1970. Following Strathern’s redefinition of ‘anthropology at home’ as ‘autoanthropology’, that is, ‘anthropology carried out in the social context which produced it’, my field could not easily be described as ‘home’ (1987: 16-17). By the time I started my research, my long residence in England had changed my perspective and, despite frequent visits, had created a distancing from Venice and Italy, while other factors that contributed to my difficulty in defining my research as ‘at home’ were undoubtedly the limitations of my early social experience, due to boundaries of education, place of residence and schooling, as well as the fact of having grown up in the 1940s as a member of a minority in a then divided and oppressive society.

All the same, I certainly would not wish to deny or renounce a strong sense of belonging that still ties me to Venice: while at the beginning of fieldwork my knowledge of Venetians, especially those spread through the lagoon’s islands, was limited, I knew my way around the city’s libraries and archives, and I occasionally benefited from the presence of some old acquaintance in relevant administrative or political offices. Above all, having grown up as a Venetian speaker, I was easily able to cope with my informants’ diglossia, or their outright reluctance to speak in Italian. In sum, my position as fieldworker is probably best described in Peter Loizos’s observation about the slippery nature of categories like ‘outsiders’ and ‘insiders’. ‘Insiders who become anthropologists in their own societies [he writes] have obviously undergone a trans-formation. [They have] come out of a single culture and become bi-culturals.” (1981: 170-71). As will appear from references to my fieldwork in various part of this work, I did not develop a strictly worked-out methodology; indeed I found serendipity was a better guide than a pre-established set of rules and guidelines. For example, at the

outset I had no interest in lace, I did not know that lacemaking, with all its implications in terms of gender, honour and sexuality was quite as prominent a factor in Buranelli’s sense of their history and self-image as I eventually learned from my informants’ accounts. Because I hoped to be accepted in the island in complete independence from any political party or organisation, I did not make contact with

agencies or persons who might have helped me to settle there, but I am still not certain whether this had the desired effect, given that living with a family itself made it difficult to get close to persons of different political orientations and views. XVI

Foreword

As well as observing Buranelli’s everyday lives and trying to identify their interests,

analyse their attitudes to family, history, religion and authority, in light of their changed living conditions and outlooks, my attention was inevitably focused on the

theoretical questions that had dominated the anthropology of Italy and of the European Mediterranean since the 1950s, in particular the ‘honour and shame’ complex. A rethinking of “honour and shame’ through the analytical lens of gender led to a view of both terms of the dichotomy as more nuanced and less gender-biased than I might have assumed on the basis of earlier ethnographies in comparable areas. Finally, another question that runs through the work is that of the Buranelli’s

construction of their collective identity, mainly based on their strong sense of place and their view of their society as a community structured and held together by its intricate and numerous kinship links and its people’s use of kinship idioms.

The Writing Writing about relations between Venice and Burano poses problems of style, and,

in particular, of priorities and relations between different parts. Given the complexity and inter-relatedness of topics such as honour and shame, religion, economics, politics and modernisation, themes could not be tidily confined to different chapters. For example, my section on religious practice and belief is relatively short — not because religion is not central to Buranelli’s lives, but, on the contrary, because it so pervades all aspects of Burano’s society that its discussion is inevitably present in my chapters on history, kinship, honour and lacemaking.

Although I was quite mindful of the critiques of the writing styles, subject divisions and aspirations to objectivity of earlier ethnographies — and well aware that my chosen field would have offered ample opportunities for experimental postmodern writing — I have mainly followed a conventional style. Because of the changing, elusive, and sometimes difficult to grasp social reality, I found that a formal treatment, especially in my chapters on kinship and ‘honour and shame’, helped to bring to light coherent patterns and structured regularities.

Given that environmental problems and dilemmas which characterise Venetian life — in particular, the contrast between conservation and change — are matters of concern and personal involvement for most people both in Burano and in the historical centre, I have introduced my first chapter with a brief description of the lagoon, which is their common geographical setting. In the second part of the chapter I have described the island’s housing problems — for its inhabitants the most pressing of all environmental issues and the reason why numerous Buranelli, especially young couples, move to the Venetian hinterland. Buranelli’s discussion of housing illustrated aspects of their lifestyles and residence patterns, while their

expressions of anxiety when faced with the choice between seeking modern accommodation elsewhere and remaining on the island, despite its remoteness and its poor housing conditions, revealed their strong sense of belonging. As a XVI

A Venetian Island

dramatic example of their past poverty, poor housing was also the most obvious material evidence of a lack of assistance from the city and the state, and was a central issue in Buranelli’s political debates in the 1970s and 1980s.

In Chapter Two, ‘A sense of history I report some of my informants’ perceptions of the past, based both on known accounts, whether recorded or orally transmitted, and on their awareness of gaps and lacunae in what they would

otherwise envisage as a continuous linear narrative. In that context, ‘history’ includes ‘the past’ and its ‘written or orally transmitted records’, as well as ‘memories’, while ‘a sense’ connotes knowledge and experience, but also fantasy,

by which Buranelli construct their own metahistories. Narrative segments are therefore introduced in my text as flashbacks mostly prompted by questions developed in cooperation with informants in the field. Direct quotation of descriptive and historical writings on Burano have been introduced, not only for their information value, but also to convey, in the writers’ own voices, representations and views which in turn had a bearing on the islanders’ self-images. One of my informants, for example, maintained that the portrayal of Buranoss fishermen as comic villains in Renaissance comedies had considerable influence in developing their self-mocking and ironical vein. As several of my informants stressed, and as appears from literary evidence, throughout history Venetians and Buranelli have mutually emphasised their differences, while, at the same time (paradoxically) recognising their common roots. Indeed, writing about relations between Buranelli and inhabitants of Venice's centre, or in general those Buranelli regard as their ‘others’, naturally involves the issue of stereotyping and image-making. Descriptive accounts of the island at different periods, therefore, illustrate the writers’ attitudes to rural, remote and peripheral areas — which were often equated with ‘the primitive’ in the eighteenth century and with backwardness and underdevelopment in the nineteenth to the mid-twentieth centuries. They thus cast some light on aspects of Italian social thinking. One of the main themes in Chapter Two, but one present also in other parts of the work, is that of the embarrassment of historical riches, and, conversely, the sense of deprivation where documentary evidence is poor or entirely lacking. At the time of my fieldwork a superabundance of historical and literary writings on Venice was experienced by inhabitants of the historical centre as a weight, and there was a growing awareness that, when coupled with strict conservatism and added to the severe constraints posed by the city’s environment, history could have a paralysing effect. By contrast, Buranelli, puzzled by obscurities in accounts of their community's beginnings, often deprecated the fact that their island had long been ignored by historians. As a result, speculation about their early origins was open-ended and indeterminate. In my chapter on kinship, I have described patterns of residence and household organisation and have examined uses of kinship terms, as well as traditional jural rules and notions about reproduction. Older peoples’ narratives of their early years illustrate modes of socialisation that clearly contrast with recent practices and show XVII

Foreword

significant changes in family and gender relations, in particular in the exercise of authority. I have described uses and attitudes to nicknames, and have looked at ways in which kinship connections and networks link people resident in different islands and ways in which kinship shades into friendship at the outer edges of the kindred.

A long time-dimension was required in my chapter on honour and shame, because of the long history of both notions and their prominence as moral and behavioural complexes. Much has been written on the subject throughout the 1980s and 1990s, and some of my general criticisms of earlier works have been admirably covered, especially by Herzfeld, Llobera and de Pina Cabral, while various aspects have been discussed by Du Boulay, Hirschon, C. Stewart, Gilmore, Brandes, A. Lever, E Stewart, Just, Goddard and others. However, I have concentrated on ‘shame’ as an experience and a concern of women — one that in earlier works was not treated as extensively as was male honour. As a sensitivity to censure and a fear of transgression instilled in early childhood, shame has undoubtedly been a strong factor in limiting the range of occupations

open to women and maintaining rigid gender boundaries. Lacemaking in Burano, the topic of Chapter Six, is a particularly strong example. The history of that craft shows how secular ideas about honour are supported by Catholic attitudes to gender and to women’s sexual morality, while in the past a fear of shame was traditionally instilled at a very early age and went hand in hand with the teaching of the first lace stitches. Discourses about lacemaking, the

main professional occupation of Burano’s women, in which the craft and its history were overlaid with religious and symbolic meanings, as well as the Church's influence over its organisation, strongly reinforced patriarchal attitudes. By contrast, recent developments, especially since the 1960s and the closure of the old Lace School, are examples of significant change in Burano’s economic and political life, as well as in gender relations. In the last chapter I have returned to the ethnographic present (by now recent past) and have described particular moments in Buranos relations with Venice. Although the island was excluded from industrial development in the lagoon, and was thereby

increasingly marginalised, its inhabitants too are now suffering the negative consequences of environmental damage. Their interactions with the Venetian municipality, therefore, are often tense and sometimes give rise to lively confrontations with the city’s representatives. Debate is, as ever, conducted with a high consciousness of Burano’s peripheral nature, and a keen awareness of long-standing connections, as well as resentments and memories of neglect and unanswered claims. Most of the themes in this book — Buranelli’s attitudes to their past, sentiments

and behaviours in kinship relations, changing views about honour and women’s work — are also relevant to the main issue of relations between Venice and Burano. Different threads come together in the last chapter, as in their political discourses

and their negotiations with the Venice commune, Buranelli express their distinctive collective identity.

X1X

A Venetian Island

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Map 0.1 Benedetto Bordone, 1528. Venice and the Lagoon. Oxford, Bodleian Library.iy

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Map 0.1 Detail, Burano, Torcello and Mazzorbo.

XX

Foreword

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Figure 1.12 Old friends exchange news and gossip.

a2

Burano, Venice and the Lagoon

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Figure 3.1 Maria Bambina. ‘Hear my prayer, oh heavenly girl, and I shall forever praise the goodness of your heart’ (Reciting the full prayer will grant 100 days’ indulgence. Cardinal D. Agostini 1885)

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12

: ,}| y: ; Religion and Social Change

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e island of lace. Lace and lacemaki

Buranos Lacemaking

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Figure 7.2a Angela Adorni, Head of the Casa delle Zitelle (Media Library of the Veneto Region)

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ee: ) a Ley il Figure 7.2b Elisabetta Rossi, Prioress of the Hospital of Penitenti di San Giobbe (IRE collection) 187

A Venetian Island

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Figure 7.3. The body techniques of lacemakers and makers of fishing nets.

>

Buranos Lacemaking

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