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MEMOIRS OF
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL, OF ARDKINGLAS.
WRITTEN BY HIMSELF.
IN
TWO VOLUMES. VOL.
II.
LONDON:
-*
HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON 1832
STREET.
cr 788
LONDON: PRINTXO BT SAMUEL BKNTLKf, DorPt Strert, Meet Strict.
MEMOIRS OF
SIR JAMES CAMPBELL.
CHAPTER
I.
Progress of the Author's Commission in the Ionian Isles. The Island of Corfu. Popular commotion. A singular Handsome entertainment. Turkish customs. character.
-The Capize Bache. the Greeks.
Female
The Turkish bow.
Character of
Venetian and Turkish mar-
society.
Seminaries of learning. Amusing anecdote. Marriage ceremonies. Baptismal rites. Receive fresh instructions. Approbation of the Commander-in-chief.
ried ladies.
General Pigott.
Tropical
fruits.
Climate.
Wine.
Game.
A
Peculiarities of the Seven Islands. Flights of birds. tale of jealousy. Turkey in Europe. General Lau-
The Suliotes. Ferocity of the mountaineers. Anecdotes Insubordination. Methods of discipline
riston.
and reform.
WHEN
the government of Zante had
in
some degree been settled, and when external quiet had taken place of those quarrels and commotions which before VOL.
II.
my arrival had perpetually B
MEMOIRS OF
4
was a wine-house, and the women were to be seen walking about the streets with their bosoms
exposed to view.
My
immediate object was to
prevent a repetition of the scene of slaughter. I
pacified
lice
of the
him with an assurance town would be
and
future,
1 prevailed
cessary orders for the
Turkish
that the po-
better attended to in
on him to give the ne-
immediate
sailing of the
ships.
was suspected that the Capize Bache had been sent to Corfu for the purpose of watching It
the movements of the celebrated Ali Pasha,
whose residence on the main-land was not
Whatever was
distant.
his errand,
while at Corfu in considerable
state.
far
he lived After the
disturbance created by the Turkish sailors had
some degree subsided, I went repeatedly to visit him, knowing he was not likely to exer-
in
cise his official
functions on
my
person,
and
found him to be a man of general knowledge and information superior to most of the Turks
whom At
I
had then known.
the
commencement of our
acquaintance,
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
me
he gave
a very
The number four
in attendance
were
handsome entertainment.
of the party was exactly twenty-
five or six of
;
them being English Three
on me.
set out, each of
from the
5
them
different tables
raised about a foot
The usual number
floor.
officers
of eight per-
sons was allotted to each table, and cushions
were placed for them to
was served in true Turkish or spoons,
who
;
sat
and
I
;
knives, forks,
remember that
next to
me was meat
tear a piece of roasted gers,
style
formed no part of the arrangements
of the table
Molla
The dinner
on.
sit
for
a Turkish
so obliging as to
me
with his
fin-
having observed, I suppose, some indica-
tions of
awkwardness
in
my manner of handling
the viands. I should
have mentioned, that in the room
adjoining to that in which
and just before
number of a
sitting
we were
down
to dine,
to table, a great
servants attended us, each carrying
wash-hand basin of
silver,
piece of Jerusalem soap.
a
The
napkin, and a basin
is
covered
with a grating, and the servant pours water on
MEMOIRS
6
0*
your hands from a ewer, the usual manner of performing this ordinary kind of ablution.
The same ceremony was repeated after dinner. As soon as we were seated at table, the chief cook made his appearance very splendidly tired.
-He was followed by three
at-
servants, car-
rying three dishes composed of the same meats,
one for each
was the
This
table.
first dish,
I observed,
was followed by others, to the number of forty or fifty one being always roast.
It
;
removed
as its successor
was brought
in,
and
the master-cook regularly assisting in placing
them on the
table.
i
At
a Turkish feast, the
are always the
and the rice
last
and
same
the
first
and
last dishes
being the
roast,
the pilau, which consists of boiled
fowls.
Thus the
signal that dinner
were yet
;
first
is
pilau becomes the
concluded.
at table, the Capize
While we
Bach6 addressing
himself to me, in very good Italian, observed, that he
knew we must
dine badly without our
usual accompaniment of fermented liquors.
He
added, that he had them of every kind in the house, and that if
we were
so disposed, they
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
were very much
my
at
our service.
7 I consulted
English friends on the subject, but they
agreed with
me
in declining the obliging offer.
We knew that his
own
liberality
was
sufficient
to sanction such an infringement of the law of
Mahomet, but we
also
knew
that his giving
countenance to the use of wine at his table,
might be liable to misconstruction in the eyes of his numerous domestics, of whom there were not
less
upon
than a hundred in constant attendance
us.
When we
had repeated our ablutions after dinner, we were presented in a separate apartment with pipes and coffee. After a certain interval,
the Christian part of the
company
were requested to remain by themselves, while the Turks retired to another apartment of the suite to
perform their evening devotions.
room
allotted for this purpose
over,
and we could
see the
The
was matted
all
Turks kneeling
down, with their faces directed towards Mecca, while they repeated the words of the prayer of Assera.
we
They then returned
to us,
when
continued our smoking and our coffee until
MEMOIRS OF
8
the period arrived for our retiring
for
the
night.
Next morning
I received a present
from the
Capize Bache of several baskets, containing various kinds of wine, accompanied
message that
it
suffered
polite
was intended to make up for
our privations of yesterday.
we had
by a
no
privation,
I answered, that
but of course I
accepted the present, and sent an equivalent in return.
had afterwards opportunities of conversing with the Capize Bache on a variety of subjects, I
and found him very well instructed, not merely on ordinary topics, but in several of the exact sciences.
but
this
He
was
also
an excellent linguist
;
was rendered necessary by the nature
of his duties, which required that he should be able to
communicate
in almost every language
spoken by the subjects of the Porte. all
these advantages he
from prejudice. stance,
was
far
With
from being
free
In speaking of arms, for in-
he contended for the superiority of the
bow and arrow
to the musket,
and adduced a
variety of arguments in support of his idea.
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
Above
all
he urged
its
9
and when
lightness,
I suggested the greater range of the
musket,
he said that that was a reason which could only
He
weigh with a coward.
was
lame that
so
he could not leave the divan on which he without pain and difficulty
me
convince
and with
it
of
my
error,
but in his zeal to
;
he called for his bow,
shot an arrow through the long
me
range of apartments, desiring if I
to
go and
see
would have gone through a On my return I was forced to it
thought
man's body.
admit that in his hands missile, as the
it
was a very powerful
arrow had entered a door with
such force that I could not extract
Turkish
bow
terial is
not of wood, but
is
it.
about three feet long
Before
together.
;
its
The ma-
a composition of
is
sinews and other elastic substances
combined
sat
it
is
curiously bent,
the
horns are turned outwards, in the direction opposite to that in which the
and
I
was curious to
the
is
to be used,
in consequence of this inversion of the arc,
spring, of course,
its
bow
instrument,
is
see for
just so
much
the greater.
manner of bending such was its apparent his
MEMOIRS OF
10
was persuaded an untaught Hercules could not have adjusted the string intractability, that I
to
its
The bow was put across his with the string before him he then
place.
shoulders,
:
brought up his knees in such a position be embraced by the
string, and, pressing
them
forward, employed
as to
them most
as a lever, the
human body bow to bend to
powerful perhaps which the nishes, so as to force the string.
Even
in
this
manner
it
require a great exertion to adjust length,
by a sudden
chuck into
jerk,
fur-
the
seemed to it
;
but at
the string came
its place.
If I were called
upon
to give an opinion of
the character of the Greeks in general, I should say that they are vain, petulant, and witty civil
and fawning, hospitable,
sanguinary.
Such, in so
irreligious,
many
words,
result of a pretty close observation of
a good
many
years
;
and
is
them
;
and the for
I believe that it is
some measure confirmed by the writings of their oldest and greatest poet, as well as in the
in
biographical productions of one
be considered as
less
who
cannot
than the friend of their
Silt
Homer and
If
country.
JAMES CAMPBELL.
Plutarch have ac-
knowledged some dark shades character, I shall not be less friendly in
with
whom
fine arts
in
thought
the Greek less just,
or
observations, because I have
my
not been able to close faults in the
11
my eyes
to
some grievous
manners and habits of a people our
of taste in the
earliest ideas
and gallantry
timately associated.
in the field are so in-
With
all
their faults they
are a very agreeable people to live with, they
are always ready to
oblige,
and
in their en-
tertainments they affect a great deal of show
and splendour. population
The lower
affect,
classes of the rural
and perhaps, sometimes
feel,
a strong attachment to their superiors, and they are uniformly profuse in their professions of
gratitude for any favour which
may be done
to them.
The manners
of the female population of
the Seven Islands are a singular the Venetian and the Turkish
;
compound of
married ladies
allow themselves to be sometimes seen by the
male
visitors of their
husbands, but that part
of the mansion which
is
appropriated to the
MEMOIRS OF
women
of the family
is
never seen by strangers.
Ladies of the better ranks
are,
I
believe, in
exemplary in their attention to the
general
domestic virtues
;
with great
and seldom or never change
care,
they govern their families
The
their servants.
children, as soon as they
complete their seventh year, are sent for their education to public seminaries of learning, and
when they return, are never seen by any but their own sex until the day of their A widow generally retires to a conmarriage. the
girls,
vent,
where she enjoys the utmost freedom
mode
to her
of
life,
as often as she will,
going out and returning
and
at all times enjoying
the various society of the convent state of a
widow
enviable condition
As men
in
is
The
itself.
thus comparatively a very
among
some other
as
the Greek ladies.
countries, the
Greek wo-
are married at a very early age,
seldom happens that the bride
is
seen
and
it
by the
bridegroom until they meet for the performance of the marriage ceremony.
This perhaps would
be best illustrated by one of the numerous stances
which
I
in-
had an opportunity of witness-
SIR
A
ing.
mined
JAMES CAMPBELL.
13
gentleman of some fortune had deter-
to marry,
and having heard through the
usual channel of some married female friend, that a
young
lady, with
whose family he was
disposed to connect himself, possessed the qua-
which he thought desirable in a wife, such that she was handsome, well bred, and of a
lities
as,
good temper, he made the parents.
When
were completed,
it
his proposals in
form to
the necessary negotiations
only remained to
fix
the
day and to invite the company to the wedding. When we were all assembled in expectation of the appearance of the bride, and had waited for her
with some degree of impatience, the
bridegroom arrived in great haste, on the supand never position that he had been too late ;
having seen the lady, he walked directly up to the head of the apartment, where two ladies,
one of them a young married woman, were
and supposing, from her situation near to one of his own relatives, that she had been the
seated
bride,
;
he approached her with great empresse-
ment, and deposited the marriage presents in
her lap.
MEMOIRS OF
14
To
his great mortification, as she
was a very
handsome young woman, she returned them to him, observing, that she was not the happy person.
At
this intimation
he seemed a good
but the bride being just then announced, all eyes were turned upon her as deal
startled,
she walked
up with great dignity
As
of the apartment.
the bridegroom went
her
veil,
to the head
soon as she was seated, to her,
up
and taking
put the presents into her
lap, as
off
the
Unfortunately, the coun-
ceremony required.
tenance was quite a contrast to the other,
seemed to be the plainest Never, perhaps, was a
taken by surprise
;
it
I
had ever
man more
was
it
seen.
completely
clear that, as to her
he had been grossly deceived, and he gave expression to his feelings a la Grec, face at least,
without any attempt at disguising them, walking about the room in a state of the greatest perturbation, and never even approaching the bride, less
who was
thus left in a predicament not
awkward than
his.
ceeded, notwithstanding.
The ceremony
pro-
I do not pretend to
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
remember the
details,
but
it
15
was followed by
music, dancing, and a supper.
The
ceremony of baptism, like that of marriage, is attended with a great variety of forms, ber,
some of which
I
have reason to remem-
from an incident which occurred
at a chris-
tening at which I had been asked to officiate as godfather.
In the middle of the room where
the ceremony was to be performed, there was
placed a basin of water of very large dimensions,
round which the company, led by the priest, walked seven times in procession, chanting
hymns
all
the while, and stopping at each round
to hear a short prayer
and to drink hippocras, or
other liquor peculiar to the ceremony, the
name
of which I forget.
All this time the child was lying as naked as
was born, in a napkin, two ends of which were tied round my waist, and the other two it was
it
necessary to support with
my
hands.
At
the
seventh round, a long prayer was said by the priest or bishop
the child from
who
officiated.
me and immersed
He it
then took
three times
MEMOIRS OF
16 in the font,
its
keeping
water that I thought
Replacing
it
course of
its
he made sundry
and concluded the ceremony with
another long prayer relief,
in danger of drowning.
in the napkin,
genuflections,
great
it
head so long under
when
;
the nurse, to
took the child from me,
as,
my
in the
entrance into the pale of the church,
had completely ruined a very handsome uniform which I wore on the occasion. To this
it
annoyance was added a
my
sponsorial
duties
civil
suggestion that
included a gratuity to
the nurse, and a present to the priest and his assistants, corresponding, I suppose, to
might entertain either of my own. I
The Greeks seem stinctive
and
They cannot bear
emblems of
to look
upon a
their funerals are not attended
relatives or friends. is
dignity or
to entertain a sort of in-
horror of the ordinary
mortality. corpse,
his
the sense
Under every church
by
there
a great vault for the reception of dead bodies,
and the opening to
it,
after every funeral,
is
covered up as closely as possible, the interstices
between the stones being
filled
up with geesh,
a
Sill
JAMES CAMPBELL.
and forming a
sort of lime of the finest quality,
cement
like
wax, well suited to the purpose.
Before the interment, the body a bier, over
which the
when
is
out upon
laid
priests in attendance con-
psalms and to pray until mid-
tinue to sing night,
17
it
is
carried
the opening of this
by the attendants
to
charnel-house,
frightful
and thrown among the general mass of mortality.
After the Commander-in-chief had gone to
Egypt, I had seldom an opportunity of communicating with him, or of receiving fresh instructions,
but I had ultimately the
tion to learn, that all that I
had done
government of the Islands was sonance
with his
own
I
make
con-
met with
was enabled
also to
these islands of use to his Majesty's other
possessions in
the Mediterranean.
particular stood in great fact
in the
strictly in
views, and
his entire approbation.
satisfac-
want of fire-wood, a
which was communicated to
neral Pigott, the Governor.
I lost
supplying his wants, and besides fire-wood,
VOL,
II.
I
sent
Malta in
me by Geno time
many
in
loads of
a considerable quantity of
C
MEMOIRS OF
18
another species of fuel which was probably to him.
It
was no other than the
new
stones, or
bones, as they are called, of the olive, after the
expression of the
and
fuel,
It is a favourite
oil.
for various
greatly preferable
to
kind of
culinary purposes
even to
or
fire-wood,
it is
charcoal.
Currants are the staple of Zante, as
oil is
These two are the principal of the Seven Islands, and the difference of climate
of Corfu.
between them
is
so mild as to produce all the tropical
Zante
is
fruits,
such as oranges, lemons,
figs,
yans, while at Corfu not one of
This
raised.
That of
very remarkable.
is said,
and
and ban-
them can be
I believe
it,
to arise
from the vicinity of Corfu to the high and cold mountains of Thessaly and Albania.
Wine in
made
Zante of good quality, and very considerable quantities, but none what-
ever
is
is
name
in
produced in Corfu.
its
to the great staple of Zante, from its
being the place which grape which
The
Corinth gives
we
call
first
exported the small
the currant.
mildness of the climate
is
exemplified
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
in rather a peculiar manner,
19
by the contrivance
which has been adopted for the detection of depredation on the fruit in the process of drying.
The
tities,
exposed to the influence of the sun, and
a cloth
name
currants are laid out in large quan-
laid over
is
them, out of which the
of the proprietor has previously been cut
in large
and
The name
legible characters.
then dusted over with
flour, so
imprinted on the currants
withdrawn, and
I hold
it
as to leave it
when
the cloth
precaution
safeguard for so
is
much
is
to be complimen-
when such
tary to the morals of the people, trifling
is
considered
a
a sufficient
The
valuable property.
stalks are carefully picked off before the cur-
rants are packed
up
for exportation,
and
it is
probably in the procees of drying that they receive the sandy particles which give so
much
trouble to our cooks.
The Seven
Islands are not
by any means
plentifully
supplied with game.
enjoyment
for
the
sportsman
Barbary pigeon, which arrives
numbers
at a certain period of
is
in
The
chief
the
small
incredible
the summer.
MEMOIRS OF
20
Birds of passage, in general, are supposed to
take their flight and to arrive in the last
and
first
instance in a vertical direction, darting
right
up
into the
so as to afford
place from
air,
no
and descending from
it
definite indication of the
whence they have come, or whi-
The
ther they are bound.
which make
flights of
pigeons
their periodical appearance
on the
Ionian Islands, arrive with a rushing noise like
when
a rocket, and the sportsmen, at the time
they are expected, conceal themselves in huts until their actual arrival.
As
soon as the cloud makes
the sportsmen get out and general mass, killing
cannot
appearance,
away at the such numbers that they
be counted.
They
come from the African
coast,
fire
are supposed
and
must be amazingly rapid, excellent condition and very
flight
in
its
if so,
as fat.
to
their
they arrive It
is
cer-
they come from a country produced, as I had an opportu-
tain, at least, that
where gold
is
nity of proving
remarked that of sand
by personal observation. I numbers of them had particles
sticking
to
their
feet,
which
were
SIR
sometimes I
JAMES CAMPBELL.
pellucid and
had some of
this
21
generally glittering.
sand collected, spread upon
when
paper and carefully analysed,
I
ascer-
tained that the result produced a considerable
proportion of gold.
Birds of passage probably
drink immediately before setting out on their migration, and the aureous particles were pro-
bably brought
down by some
stream which
must have passed through a country impregnated with the metal which is the object of This
such universal pursuit. ing
is
Islands.
shoot-
pigeon
only to be had on the coast
The sportsman
gets out
soon after day-break, and
may have
constant
work
if
of the
of his hut
so disposed, he
for the
whole
fore-
noon.
The Greek
Islands,
and indeed,
the Is-
all
lands in the Mediterranean, have their houses
near the coast strongly
fortified,
very
much
like those ancient habitations of the Scottish
gentry called Peels, of which so are
still
used by people of coast,
These
to be seen.
from the
fear
all
many
fortified
remains
houses are
ranks, residing near the
which
is
entertained of the
MEMOIRS OF Barbary Sardinia, beinsj o
When
corsairs.
I
I
was
at
one time in
remember two hundred people from a small island on the
carried off
coast in a single night.
When
the
affairs
been settled to
my
of Zante and Corfu had
satisfaction, I
made
a pro-
gress to all the other Islands, but with
had comparatively Santa Maura
is
little
is
trouble.
situated so very near to the
coast of Asia Minor, nel
them
and the intervening chan-
so shallow in this tideless sea, that the
inhabitants had frequently alarm, lest they
communicated
their
should be attacked by the
unruly population of the adjacent continent,
through the caprice of their extraordinary chief Ali Pasha. In former times, a castle had been *
built for the protection of the strait, still
which was
capable of repair, and the people were very
desirous that I should
come
to see
it,
in the
hope that I might be induced to make for the reception of a garrison.
Santa it
Maura
is
it fit
The town
of
singularly situated, the half of
being built on
piles, so
as to
water flowing under the houses.
admit of the In the neigh-
SIR
bourhood
JAMES CAMPBELL.
the rock from which Sappho took
is
her celebrated leap. I leave if
he will on the following little
told
the
The I
the reader to generalize and moralize
me by
tale,
which was
a lady at the table of a family of
note in the Island of Santa Maura.
first
conversation having turned on jealousy,
was told that the master of the house had
formed an unwarrantable attachment sin of his
own, and that
his wife,
for a cou-
on discovering
had invited the lady to pay her a visit. " fair informant thus ended her statement, it,
My
We
poisoned her, and afterwards we were very " Era envelenato e doppo a state happy."
molto I
felice
had
!"
several times occasion to visit the coast
of that part of the continent, which
Turkey
in Europe.
The towns
is
called
in general
may
be said to consist of independent communities, as they are all strongly fortified, and did not
acknowledge subjection to Ali Pasha, of whose
power they were very jealous. them, the Souliotes came to
gunpowder
;
and
as I
The
me
bravest of
begging for
had instructions to look
MEMOIRS OF
24 Ali, I
after
thought
it
my
duty to supply
them, as they would be a thorn in his
side,
and might probably find him employment in his
own
territories.
Albania, Thessaly, and Macedonia, indeed the whole country, from the Bocca de Catera to the
upper parts of the Adriatic, has great
natural capabilities for defence so
the surface
;
mountainous and unequal,
as
to
make
is it
impossible to transport any kind of artillery.
The
had long sustained themselves against Ali Pasha, and with the assistance Souliotes
which their
was able to render them, joined to great natural advantages, they were able I
to put all his
When
power at defiance. the French General Lauriston, who,
by the way, was grandson
to the celebrated
Law, of Lauriston, who imagined the famous South Sea bubble, and the Mississippi scheme, made a descent on this coast, he found the same difficulty
with others in transporting his can-
non, and was ultimately obliged to abandon the attempt.
General Lauriston
an excellent
officer,
is
well
known
as
but he was also a good and
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
25
times anxious to serve
kind-hearted man, at
all
the English, and
more the Scotch.
still
When
afterwards a prisoner of war in France, I applied through
him
for leave to
I have reason to believe that
be exchanged.
he did what he
could to forward an object in which I had so
deep an
interest,
but
his efforts
were
finally
unsuccessful in consequence, as he explained to me, of
gineer
;
my
education, and services as an en-
which Bonaparte did to be exchanged, from the supposed
a species of force
not suffer
superiority of the
num-
in
compared with the English.
bers, as
The
French engineers
inhabitants of these mountainous regions
are in general of a fierce
and violent
disposition,
but quarrelsome and disunited among themIf they were
selves.
somewhat more
the strength of their country
them
far
The
principal towns are situated
and the character of
on the
coast,
tion
much more
ture.
such as to place
above the need of being subservient
to strangers.
is
is
civilized,
their popula-
gentle and pacific in
its
Ragusa, for instance, which was
merly an independent
republic, but
is
nafor-
now
MEMOIRS OF
26
absorbed in the Austrian dominions, although in apparent amity with the Montenegrians, or
Black Mountain people of the vicinity,
accustomed to repose
good
of
faith
its
much
is
not
confidence in the
neighbours.
The market-
where the towns-people and the Montenegrians meet for the purposes of traffic, is situplace,
ated outside the walls, so as to be
commanded
by the guns of the two
which over-
bastions,
look the esplanade, and the distrust of the people of Ragusa their Black
covered
is
such, that they will not permit
Mountain
way with
friends to approach the
the goods which they bring
for sale.
I
had a corps of these Montenegrians, and
another of Souliotes, per management, to
worthy
soldiers.
ed, however,
we is,
with
whom
I found, with pro-
make very good and
trust-
They must not be confoundwhich
soldiers in the sense
are accustomed to apply to the term, that
with
men who have
sions to will,
relinquished
all
preten-
and who are considered the more
valuable, in proportion as they approach in re-
semblance to a piece of mere mechanism.
The
SIR
Montenegrian
who
hands, rior, it,
JAMES CAMPBELL.
soldier
is
a
27
man with arms
in his
submits to the orders of his supe-
not because he feels himself bound to do
but because he
is
so
Coercion
inclined.
must not even be attempted with them, and the infliction of corporal punishment on the meanest of the race would be speedily followed with the most signal and unhesitating vengeance.
may, perhaps, have been discovered
It
in the course of these pages, that
has always savoured of osity,
which, joined to
light troops,
my
temper
warmth and impetu-
my
long service in the
made the command of
these dar-
ing and uncultivated mountaineers more easy to
me
dier,
might have been or a wiser man. than
it
Such was
my
confidence in them, that I had
constantly three or four of
immediate attendance on guard, and I
to a better sol-
am
my me
mountaineers in as
death in rare
among
and resolute
would have induced them
my
personal
persuaded that their strong
sense of duty, joined to their rude disposition,
a
defence. soldiers,
They had
to
go to
a virtue very
of the strictest sobriety,
MEMOIRS OF
28
and indeed they are the only troops served with I
who
never drank.
As
it,
and
Deity in any form,
manner
if
it
ever
to religion,
do not remember to have observed the
est indication of
I
slight-
they did worship the
must have been
in a
singularly free from those ceremonious
observances which are so often a substitute for true devotion.
As
a farther illustration of the character of
these mountaineers, and of their superior fidelity
and
trust-worthiness, I
may mention what
place on the occasion of a Italians at Zante.
I
was
took
mutiny among
my
fully persuaded of the
necessity of checking the
symptoms of insuborof promptitude and firm-
by some act The mountaineers and Italians being both
dination ness.
on parade, I walked up to the ringleader of the mutiny, and seizing him by the collar, pushed
him suddenly among the Albanians, calling out to them at the same time, " Matzata quel birbante,"
"
Put the
scoundrel to death."
The
mountaineers had their arms raised to put the order in execution, but perceiving on the instant that
no attempt was to be made
at rescue
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
29
was spared the necessity for the effusion of blood, and afterwards found myself
or revenge, I
in safety to pardon the mutineer, although at
the
moment
of
my
interference the affair
somewhat of a threatening
I
aspect.
was
tainly the only individual within hearing
had cer-
who
understood a word of English, and I addressed the mountaineers in Italian, because diate object
those
was to make myself
who had countenanced
my
imme-
intelligible to
the prisoner's act
of insubordination.
After
I
had
retired for the night,
and was busi-
whose
ly occupied with writing, the Albanian,
immediate duty
my
person,
arms in
it
was to be
walked into
his hand,
my
in attendance
on
apartment with his
and addressing
me
with great
never attempt gravity, beseeched that I should to treat
any of
his
had acted to the are not Italians,
countrymen
in the
manner I
Italian in the morning.
he
said,
We
and are not to be
governed by intimidation. He concluded by assuring me that he spoke in this manner for the love he bore me, and from the fear
lest
on
any occasion I should hazard such an attempt
MEMOIRS OF
30
upon an Albanian and as a testimony of his to cross my thumbs, sincerity, he desired me ;
and with great solemnity he came to
kiss this
simple symbol of the cross.
At
another time, some symptoms of mutiny
appeared
among
the Albanians themselves.
1
have said that they were paid according to their individual merits, a higher rate being given to
the veteran soldier, and to the stout, well-armed
man, than to
others.
It
was understood among
them, from some indiscreet observation by one of the
members of the Presidency,
that
it
was
in contemplation to reduce or to equalize their
pay, measures which would have been resented as equally
those at
an insult and a breach of faith by
whom
they were likely to
affect.
I
was
one time seriously apprehensive that they
would have
upon the Presidency and plundered the town, but by assuring them after their
own
risen
fashion that their customs
would be
respec-
and that they would be severally paid according to the rates for which they had indi-
ted,
vidually bargained with their
own
captains, I
succeeded in restoring order and confidence
among this peculiarly constituted body of troops.
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
CHAPTER
31
II.
Fortification of the Island of Zante.
Affair of Egypt.
Sin-
Spirited conduct.
Duke Andrea de
Doria.
gular visitors.
Lord Elgin.
dress to the President. island.
The
Vernal season.
Cypriots.
power.
Excessive draught.
Jealous character.
Curious instance.
to cross the Desert.
rations.
A
Aspect of the
Sail for Cyprus.
Latikea in an Arab vessel.
van
Ad-
Leave the Presidency of the Islands.
-
Fertility.
Effects of arbitrary
Turkish costume. Tradition.
The Arabs.
The English Consul.
Wait
Sail for
Travellers.
The Bashaw.
for
a cara-
Prepa-
A
firman.
Maronite Christian. *h
IN obedience
me by Lord of
my
Nelson, I had occupied a great part
time in fortifying the harbour of Zante,
and putting this
to the orders originally given
it
in a defensible condition.
purpose I had constructed a
fortress,
For and
erected several batteries, one of which was situ-
ated so as to
command
the usual and most con*
MEMOIRS or
32
venient point in the bay for embarking supplies
of
wood and
thus been
when
Before the harbour had
water.
fortified,
and previous to the period
the protection of Great Britain had been
extended to these exposed to the
islands, the
visits
bay of Zante was
of every passing cruizer,
for the purpose of obtaining supplies of
wood
and water, which were often taken without the
ceremony of asking
leave.
During the affair of Egypt, two Salletine rovers made their appearance in the bay, and sent two officers ashore with the rank of Sikh and Keis, to
desire
might be sent
to them.
been excited in
my
visitors,
that the
my mind
Some
usual supplies suspicion
had
as to the quality of
and I desired to have an interview
with them in the apartment of the Lazaretto constructed for the purposes of oral intercourse
between persons under quarantine public at large.
I inquired if they
and the had any
one on board the two ships but their ordinary crews, to which they answered in the negative* I then
mentioned that
I could not spare
them
the use of boats and water-casks from the shore,
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
33
an accommodation which such vessels were ac-
customed to enforce before the Islands had enjoyed the protection of the British flag said, that if
;
but I
they chose to warp their vessels to
the point alluded to, which was within point-
blank distance of
battery of long thirty-
my
twos, their wants might be easily supplied.
This arrangement was agreed early
to,
and
at
an
hour on the following morning a person
was brought to me who had made his escape from one of the rovers during the night by dropping overboard and swimming ashore.
He
proved to be a Frenchman, whose object was to ask the assistance of the British Governor in obtaining the liberation of forty-five prisoners, chiefly
Frenchmen and
Italians,
whom
he de-
scribed as in close confinement on board the ships in the harbour.
made
prisoners
They had been
by the English
in
two
originally
Egypt, and
had been re-taken by the rovers in a neutral vessel on their return. They were naturally apprehensive of being either carried into
sla-
very, or at least of being detained for the sake
of extorting from
VOL.
II.
them exorbitant ransoms.
D
MEMOIRS OF
34 ,
As
soon as I heard that the two
had returned to
officers
commanding the Lazaretto, I went
meet them with a very strong guard, and renewed my conversation with them in
there to
such a manner as to leave them in ignorance of the discovery I had made.
In the course of
the previous night I had also taken care that several vessels
which lay between the rovers
and the battery, should be hauled
astern, so as
to be out of the range of the shot. telling
them, that, as
I
began by the Island was now under
the protection of Great Britain, they could not
have the supplies without paying for them. This produced some altercation, on which they proposed to return to their ships, but I observed that, before that could be permitted, I
had another matter to
settle
with them.
I
then made them aware that I was well acquainted with
all their
proceedings
;
and
as the
on board belonged to the English, I that they should be instantly restored
prisoners insisted
to me.
They and
persisted,
I then
however, in denying the
carried
them
fact,
into the battery to
SIR JAMES-
which
their vessels,
CAMPBELL.
now warped
35
into the water-
were exposed, and showed them the furnaces and the red-hot shot in readiness for ing-place,
They were
action.
sible of the
of course immediately sen-
nature of their situation
;
and
see-
ing the sort of person they had to deal with,
they made a virtue of necessity, and consented
A strong-built
to set their prisoners at liberty.
British frigate
might perhaps have
safely dis-
regarded such a threat as I held out to the
but they were
rovers,
their slender
and
fragile barks
speedily annihilated I
had thus the
shore,
aware that
would have been
by the red-hot
shot.
satisfaction of receiving
and providing individuals
forty-five
perfectly
on
for the
wants of some
the
French army,
of
them being gentlemen of very conrank. Among their number was the
several of siderable
Duke Andrea of high
The
de Doria, a Neapolitan nobleman
character
and distinguished descent.
fear of infection induced
me
to leave the
baggage of the liberated captives by way of douceur to the Turks, so that on their coming ashore they found themselves in want of every
D 2
MEMOIRS OF
36 thing
;
but I took care that they should be provided with
erally
Duke
and the and
all
that
lib-
they required,
de Doria, on behalf of himself
his fellow-captives,
gave
me
a draft for the
amount on the Marechal Lannes, then comopposite coast, which was
manding on the
afterwards duly honoured.
Before leaving the island, the gentlemen
whose
liberation I
had thus been the means of
achieving, were pleased to present
me
with an
which they spoke in very flattering terms of the service I had been able to render address, in
them in
;
and
I
have reason to believe that
it
was
consequence of the opportunity which I
took,
when
afterwards a prisoner of war, of
causing this address to be brought under the notice of the
Emperor Napoleon, that I ed so many marks of attention from members of the Imperial Government.
The
fortifications
were not completed
of which
I
receivseveral
have spoken
for less than 30,000/.
;
but
.
here, as in every instance
where
I
have had oc-
casion to superintend the expenditure of public
money,
I
made
it
a rule that a separate officer
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
37
should be appointed, whose business
make
it
was to
the disbursements, and keep the neces-
sary accounts
;
and
I refer to the archives of
the Presidency for the truth of what
I
have
said.
Soon
after the
Peace of Amiens in 1802,
received a letter from
Ambassador that, in
his
Lord Elgin, the
at Constantinople,
British
informing me,
consequence of the general pacification,
Majesty was to withdraw his protection
from the Ionian Republic, and to leave the habitants under their
On
I
own form
of government.
receiving this communication,
mained
for
me
to haul
lours wherever they
down
it
only re-
the English co-
had been hoisted,
withdraw myself from the
islands
my
my
departure, I thought
it
in-
;
arid to
but before
duty to prepare
a memorial, of which I sent duplicates to the
Commander-in-chief, and to the Secretary of
which apthe propriety and ad-
State, detailing a variety of reasons
peared to
me
to establish
vantage which would mutually result to Great Britain and to the Republic,
by the continu-
ance of his Majesty's protection.
And
it is
MEMOIRS OF
38
very satisfactory to me, that the reasons which I then submitted to the Government, have
by the keeping of Malta,
since been acted on, as well as
by the renewal of the
British protec-
tion to the Ionian islands.
When I finally took leave of the Presidency, I received a statement from them, also in the form
of an address, expressive of their regret at the resolution of his Majesty's
Government, and
assigning a variety of additional reasons their connection P
why
with Great Britain should be
allowed to continue.
They
offered to
pay the
whole expenses of the Government, and to have dealings with no other country but this, provided only that they enjoyed the protection of the British
They concluded
flag.
dress in terms of personal civility to
ing
me
of their regret at
my
their ad-
me, assur-
departure,
and of
the peace and happiness which the islands had
experienced under
my
administration of the
laws, according to the benign principles of the
British Constitution.
At
the same time they presented
me
with a
sword and cane, both mounted with gold, the
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
39
value of which, although inconsiderable in
itself,
was greatly enhanced by the expressions of attachment with which the gift was accompanied, as well as
by the circumstance of the presents being exact fac-similes of those which the Presidency had previously given to Lord Nelson. Unfortunately I
lost
them
when
both,
wards taken prisoner by the French. " :
The
in-
on the sword was to the following
scription effect
after-
The Presidency
public to His Excellency
of the Ionian Re-
James Callander, Ba-
ron of Craigforth, and Commander-in-chief of the Forces of the Republic."
After I had thus restored the
command
the Seven Islands, I began to consider
could best, or most usefully employ
time in a season of peace. a curiosity to see
I
resolved,
make
for
I
my own
Partly induced by
more of Eastern
and partly with a view to benefit which had not
how
of
countries,
my
health,
some time been very
robust,
before returning to England,
to
a journey into Syria, from which I was
not very far distant idea, the result
;
but when I adopted
this
which the journey was to have
MEMOIRS OF
40
on
my
stances
future interests, and the train of circum-
which arose out of
never present to
At Zante
my
it,
were, of course,
thoughts.
engaged a trader to carry me to Cyprus, where 1 arrived after an expeditious and delightful voyage. Of a country so well
known
as
I
Cyprus, I shall be excused for sparing
The
the description.
most striking to a visitor is
circumstance which
is
stranger, particularly to a
from the cloudy regions of the North,
the great disadvantage which
they suffer
from the want of rain and moisture. course of
the
century there
last
continuous period of thirteen
In the
was one
years,
during
which the island never experienced the benefit of a single shower.
In the season of spring,
the country has, nevertheless,
a verdant
and
agreeable aspect,
and the heavy dews which
occasionally
in
fall,
general, produce at
that
delightful season of the year a most luxuriant
vegetation.
Indeed I
am
fully
persuaded, that
if
the
had the advantage of a government under which the inhabitants could be assured island
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
41
would reap the fruits of and enjoy even a moderate
that they
dustry,
personal
there
liberty,
duction which, with excessive drought,
produce.
But
is
all
it
scarcely
its
it
in-
share of
any pro-
disadvantages of
could not be
so long as
their
made
to
remains under the
yoke of Turkey, at least so long as it continues to be made the temporary patrimony of a
Capudan Pasha, who takes from the wretched inhabitants, not what they can spare, but what they have
in such a state of things it
wonderful that the
efforts
may
not
of industry should
be paralysed, since for the chief the slave there
is
as well as for
truly be said to be no to-
morrow. In saying that the island might be made to produce whatever
is
necessary for the use of
the inhabitants, I say no more than justified
by
its
now
perfectly
former productions, under a
better state of things. pital, is
is
Nicotia, its ancient ca-
a wretched place, nor
is
any thing to be found in it which may not be had at any of the villages. The place where the There principal trade is carried on is Larneca.
MEMOIRS or
42
some merchants
are suffered
to
become
rich
them
are
and even
opulent,
Cypriots.
In general, they are Jews from the
but none
of
Levant.
While in the least
remained at Larneca, I was lodged
I
house of a wealthy man,
suspected
to the Turkish
he carefully concealed his lineage
and the better to the
at
being a Jew, but as that
of
would have afforded a pretext authorities,
who was
effect that object,
I
;
found
dish produced at his table was a soup
first
the chief ingredient of which was the flesh of
an animal regarded
as
unclean by the law of
Moses.
Another dish was produced which could at least,
at
his
table,
not, in a moral or religious sense
be considered offensive to either Chris-
tian or Jew.
It consisted of ortolans, served
in great quantity in the oil in
The
preserved.
ortolan
is
so very rich as to
melt in the mouth like jelly for the first
the wine
time, with a
of the
exception of
all
island
which they are
;
and when eaten
due proportion of the richest without
the vinous tribe
it
generally
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
proves too
Such, at
retain.
on
much
my
for
any ordinary stomach to
least,
was the case with
acquaintance with
first
43
these luscious
condiments in too close a combination
became perfectly reconciled are
preserved in
after receiving as
many
years,
way
to
but
The
them.
which,
large jars,
of the birds as they
will contain, are then filled
in that
;
the influence of habit, I
afterwards, through
ortolans
me
up with
oil,
and
the ortolans will keep for several
being in general served up without any
culinary preparation. If the
women
of Cyprus are the descendants
of the Paphian damsels of old, they are sadly fallen off in
gant
their appearance.
women who now
the Jewesses.
My
reside
The most
ele-
on the island are
landlady was a descendant
of that persecuted race, and a very beautiful
woman, although addicted to fits of passion and violence which no provocation could jusShe suspected her husband of an intrigue with a female shopkeeper of the town and as
tify.
;
soon as she had satisfied herself of the truth of the report which had reached her ears, she
went
MEMOIRS OF
44 to the
woman, without saying
a
word
to her
husband or any one else, and having taken a dagger with her, she upbraided the woman with her
guilt,
to the heart.
and immediately stabbed her
This was probably in consonance
with the manners of the country, since no notice whatever was taken of ities
of the place.
at that the
It
women
is
of the native population, of
the race of peasantry at
and ill-favoured
by the authornot to be wondered it
in
least,
their
should be coarse
faces
and persons,
since they are compelled, as in other semibar-
barous nations, to the performance of labours of the
The
island
noxious
all
the
field.
abounds with serpents and other
animals,
arising
great scarcity of rain
;
probably from the
and to guard against
legs of the female peasants
their attacks, the
are universally cased in boots,
which are always
of a yellow colour.
The houses
of the Cypriots are built of
mixed with straw their
;
construction,
and from the
mud
carelessness of
they would look like so
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
heaps of mud,
many
if
windows, which are of
it
45
were not for the
glass.
The
houses of
the most respectable inhabitants are composed
of the same rude materials, in consequence of their apprehension of danger
The only
which are not uncommon. is,
that
from earthquakes,
the better sort of houses
and more commodious
;
difference
are larger
indeed some of them
are raised to a height of
two and even three
stories.
The
greatest
modicum of
liberty
to the merchants, because without erate degree of
is
accorded
some mod-
freedom they could not amass
the treasures out of which the Capudan Pasha is
accustomed to levy contributions at his plea-
sure
;
and
it
may be
permitted to observe that
the whole Government of the island presents
most hideous and revolting picture of the consequences which arise from the practice of a
arbitrary power.
Indeed, the only virtue of
which I could perceive any satisfactory evidence, was the habitual and pervading influence of
filial
piety, of
which
it
would be easy to
MEMOIRS OF
46
adduce a variety of remarkable instances. occurred to myself which struck
me
One
very for-
cibly.
A
Cypriot servant having committed some offence of a nature which called for the demonstration of
when
I
my
displeasure,
at a
moment
was out of doors with a gun
hand, I presented
it
in
my
to him, without of course
any other idea but that of intimidation, which was indeed completely verified. But such was the abject state of debasement to which he had
been reduced by long habits of bondage, and such the strong attachment which he bore to his parents, that in place sistance, as
of offering any re-
an English hind would have done,
he simply exclaimed in accents of the most perfect resignation to his fate
my
poor father and mother
man was
!"
" Alas
Yet
!
this
alas
!
very
from being destitute of a strong feeling of attachment to his superiors for, some far
;
time afterwards,
when about
to leave
me, he
threw himself on the ground, and kissed the
hem
of
my
garment, to testify his feelings of
regard and devotion.
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
those
By
who have
47
not been accustomed to
the use of the Turkish habit,
it is
generally
regarded as cumbersome and inconvenient
;
but
an experience of several years, I can only The Greeks, in say that I did not find it so. after
general, are not permitted to
wear the Turkish
but those engaged in merchandize have
dress,
found
it
their interest to purchase the privilege
from their Moslem masters. is
But no firman
them to wear the
ever given
turban, although
other Christians are not disturbed in the use
of
During
it.
tries,
I
my
residence in Turkish coun-
generally wore a white one, which in-
Those worn by the common people are red, and the descendants of Madicates rank.
homed
are distinguished
Some
idea
stuff
which
by
may be formed is
a green
turban.
of the quantity of
required in making even the
lower garments of the Turkish
dress,
when
I
mention that a Greek servant of mine had a complete suit made out of a single pair of breeches.
They
are so contrived as to include
and cover up the long
ment when
tails
of the upper gar-
occasion requires, as in travelling
;
MEMOIRS OF
48
and over the whole a large sash or shawl of
many
worn,
is
them of the most expensive
kinds.
After a short stay at Cyprus, I sailed for Latikea, the nearest point of the continental coast,
in a real
Arab
The crew
vessel.
consisted of
four or five Arabs, the Reis or master himself
and we made the voyage in safety, although there was not even a compass on board. The town of Latikea, which is known to have
being one
;
been the Laodicea of the ancients, able for the
is
remark-
numerous ruins which surround
and by which
it is
marked
as
having been
it,
for-
merly of very great extent. If tradition
may be
credited, the sea
must
have made considerable encroachments on part of the coast.
there
is
Among
other proofs of
precisely square,
This tower is
is
marble,
all
and arranged with the great-
est regularity, in the
it
it,
a singular square tower, built of alter-
nate blocks of white and black
but
this
manner of a chessboard.
at present
said to
surrounded by the
sea,
have formerly stood on dry
land, at a considerable distance
from the
shore.
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
The mortar employed the kind
still
in
its
49
construction
by the Moors, which
vised
so
is
of
com-
pletely identifies itself with the other materials,
that
it
is
easier to break
two
stones together,
than to separate them at the joints of the building.
This
is
strikingly exemplified in
some of
the ancient Moorish fortifications at Minorca,
where I have seen the whole
side of a castle
tumble down and remain unbroken.
Around the town
of Latikea the extensive
ruins are certainly of great antiquity, and
many
of them of very curious construction
but I
had not the necessary
;
leisure, nor, I fear,
any
portion of the antiquarian lore which was necessary for their examination with the care and at-
tention which they deserved. cicerone,
you employ a be a Greek or a Turk
he must either
and when you or stupendous,
;
arrive at it
is
If
any thing magnificent
ascribed
by the one
to the
influence of the Virgin Mary, and to
by the other the wonder-working hand of the Caliph Ha-
roun Alraschid. I
was detained
for
some time
at
Latikea
waiting for a caravan to cross the desert.
VOL,
II.
E
In
MEMOIRS OF
50 Syria the land
may be
said in
many
places to
a desert; not from any sterility in the is
soil,
be
which
almost every where composed of a remarka-
bly rich black loam, and in the early part of the
year
is
covered with verdure, but simply from
the want of inhabitants, or at least of any fixed or permanent population.
a country as
this, it is
In traversing such
necessary to assemble in
sufficient force to repel the attacks of ders.
The
quality of the
soil,
and
its
marau-
capability
of yielding a great variety of valuable productions,
joined to the extensive ruins which are
every where to be seen, impressed
me
strongly
with the conviction that in ancient times, when
among the inhabitants must have been much more popu-
Sylla raised his legions
of Syria,
it
lous than
it is
There
is
who make
at present.
a class of persons it
among
the Arabs
their business to supply the cara-
vans with camels for carrying the
travellers'
baggage and provisions. The person entrusted with the charge of the camels, and who is generally also their proprietor, is called the
Mockra
SIR JAMF.S
of the caravan. all
It
is
CAMPBELL.
51
his province to regulate
the details of the journey, the hour of start-
ing, the
time allowed for stoppages, &c.
of course an Arab, and
and trust-worthy. caravan son
is
is
generally
He
is
civil, sedate,
Before departing, the whole
mustered by the Mockra, each perasked whether he is a fighting man, is
and whether he
is
of defence, so that attacked he
supplied with the means if
the caravan should be
may know what he
has to depend
upon. It
is
usual on the day of departure to
but a short stage, and there to in order to collect as
many
make
rest for the night,
of the people as
may
not have been prepared for the journey at the
moment
of setting out, as well as to complete
the other arrangements, and put every thing in *
order.
The gentleman who at Latikea,
him-
1
acted as English Consul
was by birth an
received
many
Italian,
and from
flattering attentions.
I
with marked distinction by the Bashaw of the town, and indeed I generally
was
also treated
E 2
MEMOIRS OF
52
remarked that
Turks of respectable
all
who were accustomed gers,
were uniformly
A favourite
station,
to intercourse with stran-
civil
and attentive to them.
attendant of the Bashaw, not per-
haps exceeding twelve years of age, was
fre-
quently seen with a train of inferior domestics,
parading the streets of the town, distributing
alms to the people
known
;
and although the boy was
to be the son of a water-carrier, yet, in
consequence of the situation which he held in the family of the Bashaw, and which in colder
would no doubt be thought rather equivocal, he was uniformly treated with the climates
greatest deference
and respect by the populace
of Latikea.
On
the eve of
my
embarking
Latikea, an application was
at
made
Cyprus to
for
me by
person attired in European costume, and
a
who
spoke very good French and
Italian, for a pas-
sage to the continent in the
little
I
had engaged.
he afforded
Having agreed
me some
vessel
to carry him,
idea of the rapacity of the
government under which he
me
Arab
lived,
by asking
before landing to take charge of a group
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
53
of sequins which he had with him, amounting, perhaps, to five hundred, as he
would
certainly
be searched on his arrival and robbed of at least a part of his wealth,
I
while he
knew
that
should be protected from scrutiny or mal-
treatment by the firman which
I
had procured
from the Grand Seignor, by which the Turkish authorities were commanded to respect my person,
and expedite
my journey
in the territories
of the Porte. I consented to
take charge of the money,
and was surprised to find that he did not return for it for several days after our arrival at Latikea.
When
had some
he did make his appearance,
difficulty in recognizing
the change which he had
made on
I
him from his dress.
In place of the round hat and the close-cut coat of the European, he was now attired in the
little
red cap and the ordinary costume of the Greeks.
He
told
Latikea,
me
that his father was a merchant of
who had
and Marseilles, to
correspondents at Leghorn
whom
he had been sent for
the purpose of acquiring a more general
know-
ledge of business, and of enabling him to con-
MEMOIRS OF
54
duct the future correspondence of his father's
house in the languages of France and Italy,
with
which their chief intercourse was
car-
ried on.
After
all
the anxiety he discovered for the
money, he was not aware how near he was to the loss of life itself. Soon after his safety of his
visit to
me, he was seized with an
some suspected
illness
which
to be the plague, but as I
had
conceived a feeling of kindness for the young
went notwithstanding to see him, and found that he was considered in great danger.
man,
I
The
diseases of
warm
climates are in general
too violent to be of long continuance, and in fact the
young man died
before
my
departure
from Latikea.
The Mockra Arab by
birth,
of the caravan, although an
was a Maronite Christian of
the sect called Druses,
who
are supposed to
be named after the celebrated Count de Drus of the Crusades.
Yet, although himself pro-
fessing the Christian religion, for
it
was necessary
him, as the conductor of a Turkish ca-
ravan,
to observe
some of the ceremonies of
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
the Mosleman faith
;
and
I
may
55 observe
of
the Turks in general, that they are uniformly attentive
of their
and even scrupulous in the discharge Our journey from religious duties.
Latikea was accordingly commenced by the
Mockra's repetition of the morning prayer.
MEMOIRS OF
56
CHAPTER Description
Moral Phenomenon.
of Caftini.
Arab customs.
Mollahs and Missionaries.
An Adventure.
Female Curiosity. Its
to Aleppo.
Wealth
Curious
crous incident.
Houses, and climate of
The Rabbis.
Journey
Society and
Pleasant Ludi-
Delightful retreats.
The Porcupine. River, Aleppo. The modern race of fish.
Books of the Old Testament.
The Sheik.
Cara-
Dish of ceremony. Obligation Remarkable character. Fast of the Ramadan.
Payment
of an oath.
of dues.
Hospitable Robber. Architecture.
AFTER
Arab Tribes.
The Dutch Consul.
Jewish Opinions. vans.
Anecdote.
arid Magnificence.
Public Gardens.
Abraham.
Priests.
Residence at the British Consul's.
Ceremonies.
dilemma.
III.
Arab
girl.
Continue our route. Peculiar customs.
Styles of Travellers.
about three days travelling,
we
ar-
rived at a large village called Caftini, which
the
Mockra
there
told
me was
we remained
for
his native place,
three
or
four
and
days.
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
What
chiefly struck
sort of
moral phenomenon, of which
met with world
me
57
at this place, I
was a
have not
a parallel, either in books or in the
They had no
at large.
cognized form of religion, and lished law of the place, that
received or reit
was an estab-
no person should
be permitted to teach the forms or tenets of any faith whatever.
was induced to make some enquiry into the cause of so remarkable a regulation, and I
was informed that the inhabitants had been visited in
succession
by Catholic
priests,
by
Turkish mollahs, and by missionaries from the sects of the Maronites,
with such a
spirit
to overturn the
who had
inspired
them
of discord and dissension, as
good understanding which had
formerly existed
among
the different families
of the village, and even to excite feelings of bitterness
and
hostility
among
members of the same domestic
the individual
circle.
In consequence of these broils and
differences,
the elders of the town interfered for the pur-
and good-will pose of restoring the harmony which had previously
existed,
and to accom-
MEMOIRS OF
58
plish this object, they
adopted the extraordi-
nary resolution of banishing
all
the priests, mol-
and missionaries, including the teachers
lahs,
of religion of every denomination, and declar-
ing
it
penal for the future to attempt to
proselytes to
any
particular faith, or
make
by argu-
ments or otherwise to hold out inducements to others to change their religion.
No
indi-
vidual was to be prevented from holding any tenets he
might think
He
fit.
was only
for-
bidden to declare his sentiments to others, or to disturb the general peace
by any approach
This state of things had
religious controversy.
existed for thirty years before tini,
but
I
to
my
visit to
Caf-
have not since had the means of
forming myself whether
it
still
in-
continues, or
whether the Sultan permits such an anomaly to exist in the dominions of the Porte.
On
our approach to the place,
my
curiosity
was excited by the appearance of three large buildings, which at first I mistook for churches, but which
I
afterwards ascertained to be mere
pigeon-houses, erected on
dinary magnitude.
1
a scale of extraor-
was informed that
at
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
59
certain seasons of the year, the inhabitants of
town had no other food but pigeons and
the
when continued
which,
rice,
daily,
is,
I have
reason to believe, an insipid and even nauseous
The pigeon -houses
diet.
common
the
are
good of the town, and each family
receives a
daily allowance, corresponding to the
of
its
inmates.
The pigeons
number
are eaten during
a period of three months, immediately preced-
when
ing the time
the lambs come into season,
and during the remainder of the year the
in-
habitants subsist on the produce of their flocks,
which are very numerous and extensive.
Among
the Arabs, I think
I
have observed
that they uniformly abstain from the use of fish
;
indeed I have often been told that they to
are thought
be unwholesome, and in the
course of this journey
we
travelled for several
days along the banks of a dently abounded in disregarded
fish,
river,
which
evi-
but they were wholly
by the people of the
caravan.
At
the village of Caftini, a fish of any kind would
have been considered as antelopes
as a natural curiosity,
and other wild animals are
and rare,
MEMOIRS OF
60 they
may be
to
said
subsist
their sheep, their pigeons,
and
neighbourhood of Caftini
on
exclusively
The
their rice.
may
be said to be
a pastoral country, but the cultivation of their rice requires also the attention of the
husband-
man.
While the men the to
field,
the
engaged in the duties of
are
women
are left at
their domestic concerns
;
home to
but
attend
as in other
Eastern countries, they are so completely domesticated as to be seldom seen beyond the precincts of their
own dwellings, and never with-
out being so enveloped in their dress, as to it
make
impossible to recognize the person of your
nearest neighbour or relation.
passion which seems to be
But
curiosity
common
in every quarter of the world,
had a striking instance during
a
to the sex
and of
my
is
this I
short stay at
Caftini.
Each house of the town had an
closure of
its
in-
own, and opposite to that of the
Mockra's where I was lodged, I observed a
woman who eyed me curiosity, as I
with evident marks of
was placing a common bottle on
the window-sill of
my
apartment.
It struck
SIR
me
JAMES CAMPBELL.
that the bottle
and on holding
had been
it
might
up
right, she
61
to her be a novelty,
to ascertain if
my
guess
made me understand by
signs that she wished
me
this I readily agreed,
and she seemed to find
it
it
to her.
To in
an object of the greatest wonder and admira-
tion. it
to give
The Arabs in general would have thought
unclean from
its
having belonged to a Chris-
her case, curiosity got the better
tian, but, in
of prejudice, and she went into her house, as understood, to hide
it
I
there.
After leaving Caftini, I was induced on one occasion to ride out about a mile in advance of
I should have stated before, that
the caravan.
the
men
are
women on
all
asses;
mounted on horseback, the but so muffled up
as not
to allow themselves to be seen or recognized.
Finding myself alone in the midst of an extensive plain, I chanced to look about me, and found that a number of
my own
domestics were hastening after
they could.
me
immediate as fast as
I halted, of course, to ascertain
the cause of their haste and apparent anxiety,
when they pointed out
to
me
in the distance, at
MEMOIRS OF
62
the very verge of the horizon, four or five de-
who seemed to be dismount-
tached individuals,
ed and leading their horses. These persons were described to me as of the Courdine race of Arabs, whose trade
it is
watch the progress
to
of the caravans, and to look out for stragglers,
whom,
if
they are able to overpower, they never
The Courdines
and murder.
hesitate to rob
most dangerous of the Arab horse and arms would probably
are considered the tribes,
and
my
have presented a
sufficient
duce them to attack me, terrupted in
my
temptation to in-
had not been
in-
wanderings by the care of
my
if I
trusty followers.
When we
had approached within a day's journey of Aleppo, a gentleman came out to meet the caravan, dispatched by the European
me
that the Consuls
different States of
Europe, and the
residents, to
from the
announce to
other Christian inhabitants, were to be in wait-
ing at a church or monastery, about two miles
from Aleppo, to conduct
me
into the town.
This mark of respect was not peculiar in case,
but
is,
I
my
understood, pretty generally
SIR
paid by
all
any respectable member of
community of and to
policy,
63
the European inhabitants, without
distinction, to
great
JAMES CAMPBELL.
nations,
this
from motives of
inspire the natives with an idea
of their union, and with a respect for the Christian
body
The
in general.
arrival of a
occurrence, and
is
European
is
indeed a rare
consequently regarded as a
circumstance of note.
When we
approached the
monastery, I rode out with the gentleman
had come
me
who
as the
deputy of the general body of Europeans, and found a great cavalcade to
of at least an hundred persons, arranged in processional order, to conduct
When we
me
into the town.
were about to join them, the whole
body dismounted, and English Consul, for
was presented by the whom I had the necessary I
introductions, to the other
European Consuls,
and to the chief of those who composed the Christian cavalcade.
Eastern custom,
on the
spot,
we
In compliance with an first
coffee,
prepared
then smoked a pipe, and after-
wards proceeded to the
we
took
city.
In our progress
passed a kiosk which looked very handsome,
MEMOIRS OF
64
and on enquiring to whom it belonged, I was told it was the summer-house of the Pasha of Aleppo,
who had come
out with his
women
to
see the procession.
Aleppo may be considered porium of the
as the great
the East.
of
interior
em-
It
is
singularly situated on a river which rises out
of the sands of the desert, and again loses itself in a sort of
or marsh, a
few miles below
the
population
is
swamp town. The
300,000 souls, of
Turks
;
whom
and Aleppo
is
estimated at
the great majority are
chosen as a favourite
place of residence for people of rank and opulence, not
merely from
but from
its
great distance from
empire, which brings tice,
them
or the caprice, of
ment. ituated
an
less
must have been
it,
and gives
the seat of
under the no-
arbitrary
The ground on which
oasis in the desert.
through
natural advantages,
its
govern-
the town
is
originally a sort of
The stream which it all its
value and
passes all its
and bright, and its banks are ornamented with gardens and shady groves,
beauty,
is
clear
JAMES CAMPBELL.
65
the
respectable
number of wealthy
individuals
SIR
which are
to
open
always
inhabitants.
From
the
town has acquired an air of grandeur and magnificence which readily recalls the idea we are so apt to form of Oriental residing in Aleppo, the
but in consequence of the grave and solemn deportment by which the Turks splendour;
are so
much
distinguished, there
is
nothing like
gaiety to be seen in the very limited inter-
course which the native inhabitants maintain
with one another.
The
visits
of the
men
take
place so seldom, that they can only be considered as meetings of ceremony.
indeed, with the
women
;
It
is
different
but when a lady
proposes to pay a visit to a female friend, is
it
necessary to announce her intention on the
of the house and previous day, that the master all the male inmates of the family may be out of the way.
When
the lady sets out to pay
the visit which she has previously announced,
with a preceded by her janizary, who, stick shod with iron, presents himself at your she
is
VOL.
II.
F
MEMOIRS OF
66
and gives three or four knocks on the
door,
opposite pavement, as a renewal of the notice to the
male part of the family to
During
retire.
stay at Aleppo, I resided in the
my
house of the British Consul, who, although an
Englishman by
He
the country. to me,
and
under
his roof.
had married a native of
hirth,
was very
civil
and attentive
I enjoyed a great deal of comfort
On
one occasion, however,
I
subjected myself, from the impulse of a par-
donable curiosity, to rather an irksome degree of restraint, in consequence of the announce-
ment of
a visit to the Consul's lady from the
daughter of the Pasha.
I asked leave to retire
to the roof of the house, in the hopes of seeing
the fair visitor and her train of attendants, in the course of the perambulation which I understood they were accustomed to all
make through
the corners of the mansion.
was previously warned, indeed, that
I
if I
chose to adopt this resolution, I must content
myself to remain on the roof during the whole course of the
but
I
however long it might last, did not reckon on its continuing,
visit,
certainly
JAMES CAMPBELL.
67
as it did, for three or four hours.
The only
SIR
place where I could find a peep-hole
was over
the cooking-apartments, and there I had an
opportunity of seeing that the young lady was
about eighteen years of age, and rather goodlooking, but certainly not
handsome. attired,
what we should
call
She was elegantly and very richly
and discovered the greatest curiosity
in
inquiring into the use of every thing she saw.
In conformity with the customs of the country, the lady of the mansion had prepared a repast for the entertainment of her visitor, consisting
principally of fruits
invited several
honour to the
On
and sweetmeats, and had
of her female
visit
friends
to
do
of so distinguished a guest.
leaving the house, she distributed presents
of considerable value
among
the female inmates
of the family, in conformity with a custom
which seems to be universal tries
in Eastern coun-
of the perpetual interchange of presents.
In this instance they were estimated to amount to above 200/. in value.
At
length, to
my
unspeakable
satisfaction, I
received the announcement that I was at liberty
F 2
MEMOIRS OF
68
to return to the shelter of the house
from the
scorching heat of the sun, which in such a tuation was
be
much more
appreciated
si-
intense than can well
by the
inhabitants
of
our
northern latitudes.
The
public gardens in the neighbourhood of
Aleppo have not much resemblance to what
by the name which I have applied to them for want of a better. The river of Aleppo, which is here about
we
are accustomed to distinguish
and seven or eight feet deep, passes through these gardens, which makes them comparatively cool and pleasant. thirty or forty feet broad,
They
are besides plentifully stocked with fruit
trees
and other shady and ornamental
plants,
and there are houses scattered through them which may be taken by families or individuals for the season.
As I have already said,
the gardens themselves
are open to every body,
and there the Turks,
both male and female, are seen to resort in groups or parties, each in general consisting of a single family.
They bring
carpets with
them
to
sit
upon, and refreshments wherewithal to enjoy
SIR
themselves
JAMES CAMPBELL.
coffee, sherbet,
particularly the first
and
6*9
and tobacco
last,
these,
being the prevail-
ing and indispensable ingredients at every Turkish entertainment,
and indeed
at almost every
interview where Turks are present.
dens
may be
said to
These gar-
be almost a perpetual source
known
of enjoyment, as winter
is
Aleppo, and the cold
seldom so severe as to
is
scarcely
forbid the enjoyment of the open
at
air.
Scenes are constantly occurring which to a stranger at least are exceedingly pleasant it
may be
;
and
doubtful whether their enjoyment
would be increased even there were to oblige us
if
the ladies
who go
their faces.
by showing
I recollect an instance which struck
me
novelty as singularly ludicrous.
had gone to
I
from
its
the gardens with the family of the Consul, and after
we had
seated ourselves on our carpet,
there
came a
party, consisting obviously of a
Turkish gentleman, with two of their
attendants,
close beside us.
who
his
squatted
wives and
themselves
The gentleman was an
elderly
person, of rather a dignified deportment,
and
while the servants were making coffee for them,
MEMOIRS OF
70
the two ladies had a dispute, in which they
seemed to be both exceedingly noisy and
lo-
quacious.
At
length,
when they had
ceased to abuse
one another, the younger of the two turned to-
wards the gentleman, and began a volley of the
most opprobrious
epithets, stopping at the
end
of every sentence to ask the other lady for a corroboration of
what she had
said
;
elder of the two, although just before in so
warm
and the engaged
a controversy, never hesitated to
second what her younger neighbour advanced.
At
that time I was not sufficiently acquainted
with the language of the country to understand all
that was said, but I was informed
who were with me, two
ladies
by those
that the observations of the
were of a nature both singular and
provoking.
The Turk, however, maintained
his tacitur-
nity and composure, and after he had listened for at least an
hour to the tirade which was ad-
dressed to him, he got
up with
great delibera-
and observing that the coffee was very good, he walked quietly away, the ladies foltion,
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
71
lowing, and their attendants bringing up the
But although thus
rear.
patient with
women,
from a consideration probably of the inferiority in which they are held in the scale of inteUect, the Turks are far from being passive under any
thing like personal provocation.
It
is
probable,
on the contrary, that if a tythe of what was advanced by the two ladies had been hinted at by a person of his
own
sex, the result
would have
been extremely different.
In the river of Aleppo there
which
fish
I
which to me,
The head say,
the
is
at least,
tail is
flesh is
was new and anomalous.
is
but strange to
wanting, the ordinary length
being about a foot.
its
a species of
have never seen described, and
like that of a pike,
the porcupine
is
On
the banks of the river
found in great abundance, and
regarded by the inhabitants as a
very great luxury, an opinion in which I perfectly
disposed to concur.
weight of the porcupine
is
The
ordinary
from eight to ten
pounds, and the flesh eats very
you could suppose
am
it
much
like
larded with ba-
lamb,
if
con.
Its habitation is in holes of considerable
MEMOIRS OF
72
extent on the banks of the river, and
brought to market they cost
as
much
when
as half-a-
crown a pound.
The town
of Aleppo
been produced by
which
it
may
this extraordinary river,
certainly depends for
tence, receiving
be said to have
from
it as
it
on
present exis-
its
does a plentiful
supply of water, in a country where the value
common
of a
What
spring
a revolution
river were,
is
would
estimated so highly. it
make
if this little
by some convulsion of Nature,
to
alter its course, or to seek, as it does elsewhere,
some subterraneous channel. see an instance, of
more than one east,
which
We might
I think I have seen
parallel in other parts of the
of a town being deprived of
water,
and
then
left in its ruins as
a
its
supplies of
monument
of
the presence of a former race of inhabitants.
The houses with
of Aleppo are uniformly covered
flat roofs,
in the
open
air,
on which the inhabitants sleep
without other bed-clothes than
their ordinary garments. at all seasons of the
known, excepting
The
climate
year that
fires
is
such
are un-
for culinary purposes,
and
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
the houses in general are not even supplied
with chimnevs. /
Several of the European Consuls at Aleppo
were of the race of Abraham, and
at the house
particularly of the Austrian Consul,
by
who was
had frequent opportuof meeting with Jews of the highest
birth an Italian, I
nities
Pechotto himself, the Imperial
respectability.
Consul, was a most generous, benevolent, honest-hearted man, and
it
was
his ambition to
entertain those individuals of his nation ^
who
were most distinguished for their learning and With such persons I was someerudition. times induced to talk on the subject of those
books which
we
are accustomed to distinguish
by the name of the Old Testament, and if their account of the matter was to be adopted, they would cut
down our canon
of Scripture
to a very narrow compass.
The books
ascribed to their great lawgiver,
including the account of the creation, and, indeed,
all
the books professedly antecedent to
the Babylonish captivity, they reject as spurious, or at least, as not entitled to the character
MEMOIRS OF
74
which we
ascribe to
as
works of
inspi-
found these Rabbis in possession of
I
ration.
them
most of the Christian versions of the
Scriptures,
which, in general, they profess to regard as
conveying a poor and inadequate idea of the original, in so far as
they admitted the authen-
and genuineness of the text from which our versions are taken. So far as they allowed
ticity
the history of their nation to be authentic, they
held that
went no
it
farther
riod of the captivity, all their
back than the pe-
when they
conceive that
more ancient records were destroyed. wondered
Song of Solomon should be regarded by the Jews without any reference to the interpretation which is It
is riot
put upon admitted
to be
it it
by
all classes
at,
that the
of Christians
;
they
to be genuine, but denied that
it
was capable of an indirect or metaphorical construction.
As
to
the Apocryphal writings,
they regarded the three
first
books, together
with the wars of the Maccabees, canonical, at least, that they
ed
as faithful histories,
as
genuine and
were to be regard-
and not
as fanciful or
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
75
spurious, according to the opinion of
some of
our Christian writers.
When
I pointed out
book of Job, and
the passages in the
in the prophecies of Isaiah
and Jeremiah, which we consider
as applicable
to our Saviour, they of course denied the application,
and
impossible.
said the idea
The Messiah
was far-fetched and is
*
yet to come they
contended, and he will arrive at
last,
not of a
spurious race, or as a wandering mendicant.
I
record these statements as I heard them, and I pass
them by with the
single remark, that if
the individuals in question had given a different account of the matter, they
must have
ceased to be what they were, professors of the
Jewish tenets,
religion,
and
in
abandoning their own
must have become,
like myself, a Chris-
tian.
Dining one day with the Dutch Consul, I was surprised to observe the extraordinary marks of respect which were paid to a strangelooking little old man, who had joined us, and
who was
in rags. literally dressed
The
Consul,
MEMOIRS OF
76
whose
at
table
we were
seated, started
up on
and received him with the greatceremony but in compliance with a cus-
his entrance, est
tom
;
universal in the East, he abstained from
any enquiry
as to the nature of his business,
until after his guest had partaken of the hospi-
of his table, which
talities
is
held to constitute
A
a sacred guarantee of safety. afterwards, I was
still
more
little
while
surprised to notice
the extreme degree of deference which was
paid to the old
man by two
persons
who
en-
tered some time after, respectably attired, and
who
objected to be seated in the presence of
the old man, on tend,
whom
they appeared to
at-
do so by the
although requested to
Consul.
The
principal stranger
was represented to
me
as the Sheik, or Prince of a considerable territory
in
what
is
called the Desert, situated at
some dis-
tance from Aleppo ; and that it was a right claim-
ed by him, arising from inveterate usage, to exact a considerable contribution
van which might traverse direction.
from every
his territory in
In consideration of
cara-
any
this exaction, it
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
77
was understood that the caravan was to the protection of the Sheik
from any
entitled sort of
depredation within the limits of his principa-
and
lity,
in this respect the practice appears to
present a strong analogy to the ancient usage in Scotland, of levying
what was
called black
mail, with an understood condition of similar
protection.
was farther informed, that an instance had
I
occurred of a very strong caravan having at-
tempted to pass through the territory of the Sheik without the payment of his accustomed dues.
He
had
fallen
upon them with a strong
body of men, and levied the contribution
A great part
matter of right.
had belonged
to
as
a
of this caravan
the inhabitants of Aleppo,
who
were, of course, very
this
unceremonious attack oh their property,
under pretence of a
right,
much
incensed at
which they did not
recognize; as they held, that the long practice of
payment was only the price of protection from external aggression, and that it was not exigible
when they found
to protect themselves.
themselves strong enough
MEMOIRS OF
78
The appearance
of the Sheik in his present
tattered habiliments
was partly a
sort of incog-
and partly a tribute of deference to public opinion, and to the irritated feelings of the in-
nito,
habitants of Aleppo. his visit to the
The
professed object of
Dutch Consul was,
of the same idea, to borrow a
in pursuance
sum
of money,
although there was nominally a price set on his
head by the authorities of the
place,
and
was
I
given to understand that he would certainly be
accommodated with whatever he required. .
This incident presented so
my
to
much
of novelty
imagination, that I was curious to see
the issue, and having expressed
my
wishes on
the subject, the Consul was so good as to ask
me
to return next
morning
We
to breakfast.
then parted for the night, after saying the prayer of Asseras, or evening prayer of the Turks, in
which the Sheik appeared to join with the greatest fervour and devotion.
Next morning, in
was
at the ordinary hour, I
punctual attendance at the house of the
Dutch Consul, and found with more than ordinary
a repast served state.
In the
up
first
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
79
course was presented the regular dish of cere-
mony, which is a roasted lamb basted with honey, and I always found it extremely palaThe Consul informed me that he had table. transacted the Sheik's business for
him, and
had got him the sum he required but that he meant to remain for some days in the town for ;
*^
The Consul
the purpose of making purchases.
then invited
me
to return to dinner,
readily agreed to do,
from a wish
which
to see
of this singular character, and through
I
more
him of
acquiring a better knowledge of the manners
and habits of the people. Mr. Baxter, the English Consul, was one of the dinner-party ;
and, in the course of the evening, the Sheik invited us and several of the principal Christian inhabitants of
Aleppo who were present
entertainment, to to his living.
own
make an
territory,
at the
excursion with
and to see
his
him
mode
of
This proposal was particularly agreeable
to me,
and Mr. Baxter and several others very
readily
consented to undertake the journey,
and
for this purpose
we made
the necessary
preparations on the following day.
MEMOIRS OF
80
Here
I
may
mention, as an illustration of the
which
respect
paid in this country to the
is
obligation of an oath,
that the only security
required from the Sheik for the payment of the
money which had been advanced
to
him was,
that he should promise, and swear to the
ment of his promise,
money should be
that the
returned upon a certain day
it
ever,
be
will
;
seen
yet, strange to
From
were Jews.
say, the lenders
fulfil-
that
a
this,
how-
character for
honesty and integrity will be duly appreciated
even in the deserts of Arabia.
At the commencement
of our journey,
it
was
the fast of the Ramadan, the condition of which is
so strict
and
Mussulman
severe, that a true
will neither eat nor drink, nor even take his
pipe
till
after the
Sheik was a
going down of the sun.
strict
observer of fasts and cere-
monies, but in the religions, there
which
it is
observance.
The
Mahomedan
as in
other
appear to be loop-holes out of
possible to escape
He
was a man,
from
as it
their rigid
appeared to
me, on the borders of eighty years of age, and he rode as we did all day on horseback, but
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
81
i
without venturing to indulge, so
far as I could
observe, in the infringement of the abstinence
which the Ramadan required.
At
length,
when
the afternoon was pretty
well advanced, he began to
grow exceedingly
impatient, without however appearing fatigued
with the long journey repeatedly of
me and
we had made.
He asked
the other strangers around
him whether the sun was not already thpugh still
far
been
was obvious to every one that he was above the horizon but it seems to have it
;
sufficient
to
appease
his
scruple that any one should say to
sun was actually
set,
to the evidence of his
the
me
al-
set,
conscientious
him
that the
although in contradiction
own
senses.
Dutch Consul took me
Seeing
this,
and begged to try him when he should next ask the
question,
by giving him the answer which
was obvious he object, "
aside,
desired.
To
this
I did
it
not
and when he next repeated the inquiry,
Giaour,
is
the sun yet
down ?"
I
made
a
response in the true style of oriental ambiguity,
saying
"Sheik, a blind
a speck of the sun."
VOL,
II.
By G
man would this
not see
time his impa-
MEMOIRS OF
82 tience
had become
so great, that
he resolved
to content himself with this oracular sort of
answer, and exclaiming in a tone of appro" Ha, ha !" or yes, yes immediately bation, !
and began to smoke with greatest industry and perseverance.
called for his pipe the.
We continued fall,
until
we
our journey long after night-
arrived at a decent-looking village,
which I was told was the residence of a
cele-
brated chief, in some degree dependant on our friend the Sheik, and connected with his
Highness in those marauding expeditions which had given so
much
Aleppo.
The
offence to the inhabitants of
residence of this chief was to
be our station for the night, and the entertain-
ment he prepared
for
us was in
comfortable and agreeable. supper,
We
all
had a good
good beds, and the greatest
of our horses.
The wife
respects
care taken
of this robber, as
some of the gentlemen were disposed to call him, was a very handsome woman, and did not conceal her face with the same degree of care
which Turkish women usually
The
do.
higher classes of the Arab females are
Silt
JAMES CAMPBELL.
83
indeed equally observant of this custom with those of Turkey, but the lower ranks are not so scrupulous.
had
We
were told that our host
originally possessed himself of the village
which we passed the night by force of arms, arid that on the first attempt he had not been in
successful,
but such was
its
value as a watering
not far from the borders of the desert,
station,
that he had renewed the attack, and
had
suc-
ceeded in securing the possession of the place.
Such indeed was the force under the command of this person, that he had overpowered a ca-
ravan consisting of 4,000 persons, and exacted the full amount which was due to his superior chief.
These considerations did not hinder enjoying a sound night's
rest.
me
from
The whole
party had slept in the same apartment, and on
awaking struck
me
his face
The
in the morning, the first object
was the Sheik
towards the
distance
which
at his devotions
with
east.
we had completed on
the
first
day of our journey was at least seventy miles, and such are the habits of the horses of the
G
2
MEMOIRS OF
84
country, that they effected ease,
On
and without
it
with apparent
either eating or
drinking. to
make
a halt with our friend the robber, not so
much
the second day
we were induced
for the sake of refreshing the cattle, as to afford
us an opportunity of examining a remarkable ruin which was situated in the neighbourhood
of the village.
It
had been a Christian church,
of magnificent dimensions, and the cupola, with
many entire.
of the details of the tracery, was
Although a mixture of the
still
oriental
and gothic styles of architecture, the general effect was exceedingly good, and its erection may doubtless be dated as far back as the time of the Crusades.
The
climate
is
so perfectly
dry as to have scarcely had any influence on the materials of the building, which consisted
of a fine grey freestone, and even on the pieces
which had
fallen,
the carving was so sharp and
pointed, as to wear the appearance of the work-
manship of yesterday. Not far from the church were of a bath in tolerable preservation.
also the ruins
It appeared
to be of equal antiquity with the other build-
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR ing,
but
its
85
form was not materially
from the baths which are
different
in use in the
still
Close by these ruins there were se-
country.
which appeared to be inhabited, and was in the interior of the bath, a stout-
veral huts,
while I
looking girl came in with a herd of
cattle.
I
observed that she wore a large ring suspended over her
mouth and attached
to her nose, large
enough, indeed, to have enabled
through
had she been
it,
her
so disposed.
to eat -
It
was
probably the same sort of nose jewel which
gave so
much
offence to the prophet Isaiah.
In other respects the
much feet
girl
was dressed very
in the style of a Scotch peasant, with her
and
legs uncovered.
Her appearance being
strange to me, I gazed at her involuntarily
with more steadfastness than perhaps to have done,
serving
it,
ought
and one of the gentlemen ob-
very prudently cautioned
more upon
I
my
guard,
as
the
rally of a jealous disposition,
men
and
me
to be
are natu-
in such
mat-
ters rather sharp-sighted.
Of
course,
I
would not willingly offend
against the manners of any country through
MEMOTKS OF
86
which
I
turned
my
happened to
travel,
and immediately
attention to the examination of the
ruins which had brought I fear that
many
of
my
me
to the spot.
But
English countrymen
are not sufficiently attentive in this particular,
and that from an idea of the their
into
own
superiority, of
customs, or from some other cause
which I do not pretend to
inquire, they
are too apt to offend against the national pe-
of the foreigners with
culiarities
associate
whom
both at home and abroad.
they
In the
instance I have mentioned, such a degree of inattention
even
fatal,
might have proved dangerous and and it is surely not too great a li-
berty to direct their attention to a subject in
which
I
have often
felt that
racter
is
placed in a
much
than
it
really deserves.
our national cha-
less
favourable light
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
CHAPTER Tomb
of the Prophet Jeremiah.
The Templars
of old.
terns of Water.
87
IV.;,
Peculiar custom.
Wells.
Repositories for the dead.
Excavations.
Pigeon
Cis-
A
shooting.
merry Sheik. His wife and family. The encampment. Trades. Anecdote* Amusing characters. True hospitality.
Good manners.
merchant.
A
A
Admirable maxims.
pleasant dialogue.
Splendid dresses.
A
Striking incident.
The Pasha.
The
good paymaster.
Mode of life. Contending
tribes.
ladies' request.
Peculiar ideas.
Instance of courtesy.
Journey with the Sheik.
Return to Aleppo. Generosity of the Sheik. A tame hyaena,
Approach Antioch.
tailor.
mosques.
NEXT
The
Bazar.
The
Baths.
travelling
Eastern
Presents.
An Aleppo
beauty.
The
service.
day, in the course of our journey, a
heap of stones was pointed out to me, which by the traditions of the country, is said to have ?
been the tomb of the prophet Jeremiah.
It
was
MEMOIRS OF
88
arranged with a certain degree of regularity, the top being
flat,
and the base
and
parallelogram,
in the
form of a
was composed of rough
whole being above thirty feet high, feet broad, and one hundred feet long. In
stones, the fifty
compliance with the custom of the country, each one of us, although of various religious persuasions,
here I
added a stone to the heap.
And
again observe the similarity of this
may
custom with a practice which
is
common
various parts of the world, particularly
in
among
the Celtic nations, of raising a heap of stones
over the remains of the illustrious dead, and of
monument by
enlarging the
the casual contri-
butions of every passing traveller. vation
may
The
obser-
be applied indeed to a great variety
of nations, in times both ancient and modern,
from Pontus, the country of Mithradates, to our
own
sister
kingdoms of England, Scotland, and
Ireland.
At
the
tomb of Jeremiah
tortoise, the first I
Our path was
had seen
I
took up a land
in the country.
necessarily directed
by such
a
route as to embrace those points where water *
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
89
and refreshments could be had.
Near to one
of the wells which thus
way, we ob-
fell
in our
served some ruins of a peculiar form, and evi-
dently built for purposes of defence.
Accord-
ing to tradition, they were occupied by the plars of old,
and they were probably
Tem-
built for
the purpose of securing the water produced
the neighbouring well. wells have
become
At
all
by
periods these
objects of contention.
We
have the authority of the Old Testament in various passages with reference to remote eras ; the fortified houses of the Templars afford evi-
dence to the same purpose with respect to the
middle ages, and daily experience assures us that in modern times they are not less the objects of controversy. I have already hinted,
and
I
have the strong-
est reason to believe the fact, that the supplies
of water in this country occasionally alter their site
and
their course.
In the route of
this jour-
ney, for instance, I found in several places considerable ruins,
where a large population must
have formerly subsisted, but where that would
now be
impossible from the total want of water.
MEMOIRS OF
90
In the neighbourhood of one of these ruinous
towns which stood upon an eminence,
I obser-
ved the remains of a bridge across an adjoining hollow, where no water has been known to run for time
immemorial, although, from the general
aspect of the country,
highly probable that
it is
a considerable stream
had formerly flowed
in
that direction through the arches of the bridge,
of which two were
standing, while there
still
was a considerable appearance of others under the sand, which had been bedded up at one end of the bridge.
In the neighbouring town,
also,
there were
baths of large dimensions in very good preservation.
I
know
it
is
held by some, that the
massy blocks of marble, which are often used in
modern times as
cisterns for holding water,
originally excavated as repositories for the
and the
inscriptions
which
still
were
dead ;
remain on some
of these soroi, such as that of Alexander the Great, in the British sive evidence of the
Museum, afford conclufact. But the size of the
baths to which I allude
is
of
itself sufficient to
exclude the idea of their having ever been em-
SIR
JAMKS CAMPBELL.
ployed as repositories for the dead.
them were
large
enough
91
Some
of
to hold six persons,
although each composed of a single block of marble.
The same this
feelings
which prompt a man
in
country to endow an hospital, or engage in
some expensive undertaking
for the benefit of
posterity, suggest to the rich
and charitable in
these parched
up
countries to dig a well, or
Here
erect a cistern of water.
and the
fact afford the
trations of each other,
also the Bible
most interesting illusand indeed, I may say
with the greatest truth, that a person travelled
in
these
countries,
who
has
has secured to
himself a peculiar source of satisfaction in the perusal of the Scriptures.
The
wells
which
are
thus scattered over
the country, are in general works of extraor-
dinary magnitude. in the
The
excavations are
made
form of a cone, the apex of which
is
Every one who draw water brings his own rope and
about three or four feet wide.
comes to
bucket, and quarters
come
when shepherds from
different
to one of these wells with their
MEMOIRS OF
92
frequently happens that they decide
it
flocks,
the question of precedency by
first
coming
to
Excavations, exactly similar in form,
blows.
are used in these countries for the preservation
of their corn, and for the sake also of conceal-
ment, as the opening as to
make
its
may be
so covered
up discovery a matter of some
difficulty.
Whether these dry excavations have formerly been
wells
which are now deserted by the
springs which supplied
them with
water, or
whether they have been formed expressly for the purpose to which they are now applied, I
do not pretend to decide.
with a simple statement of
I content myself
facts, as I find
them,
accompanied by such occasional reflections as have arisen in my mind from a consideration of the facts which were thus the object of
my
examination.
When
such places have ceased to be used
either as wells or as granaries, they resort of
we had tions, in
immense
become the
flocks of pigeons,
and when
occasion to pass such deserted excava-
the course of our route,
we
generally
SIU
JAMES CAMPBELL. amusement of
halted to enjoy the
93 shooting.
was sometimes necessary to disturb the inmates by throwing in stones, and on one of It
these occasions our old friend the Sheik, in his
eagerness for the sport, and in his haste to
pick
up
a stone, threw his purse accidentally
along with as
an
it
the purse being generally
article of external dress
The
sash.
worn
twisted into the
old gentleman laughed very heartily
at
the accident, and continued the sport with
all
the keenness of youth.
In leaving Aleppo we had proceeded in an easterly direction, and on the third day we reached the spot where the tents of the Sheik
had been placed, and where his wife, his family and attendants were in waiting for his return. These tents were of considerable dimensions that
which
served
as
;
the residence of the
Sheik himself was about sixty feet long, twenty feet wide,
and eight
feet high.
There might
in all be about fifteen others belonging to the
Sheik of similar dimensions, which served for the accommodation of his family, his attendants,
and
his horses.
There were
besides, a
MEMOIRS OF
94
number of
great
smaller tents, which were oc-
cupied by the casual followers of the Sheik's
encampment, who formed a
sort of
wandering
population, but were always in sufficient bers and variety to give to the
the idea of a moveable and
Among
these followers
num-
encampment
moving town. there is in some
de-
gree a division of labour, and a distinction of trades
some
;
are tentmakers,
some make
car-
and some are engaged in other pursuits consistent with their wandering mode
and
pets
of
cloaks,
The women
life.
in general are the tailors
and the carpet-makers. tus
of a very simple construction, and they
is
may air at
be constantly seen at work in the open the doors of their tents.
selves are
stuff
Their weaving appara-
is
composed of
The tents them-
goats' beards,
and the
of so close a texture as to be impervious
to rain, but nothing will serve to exclude the
heat of the sun, which pressive.
They
is
often extremely op-
are of such durability as to be
calculated to last for sixty or seventy years.
Soon
after
our arrival at the
stance occurred
tents, a
circum-
which serves to show how cau-
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
tious
we should be
been
familiar.
95
drawing conclusions from manners and customs, with which we have not in
A gentleman who attended the English Consul, in first fit
quality of surgeon, was a dandy of the
water
;
and by way of
distinction,
to dress himself in the latest
thought
European
tume, while every other person had,
cos-
some
in
degree, conformed himself to the habits of the
country.
The
fashion of the day was to wear
the lower garments extremely tight, so as to close to the person,
fit
and the wife of the Sheik,
who, although she had three daughters approaching to womanhood, was herself a person scarcely arrived at her prime,
made
the appear-
ance and dress of the surgeon the subject of re-
In justice to the lady, I am bound to observe, that as she had never seen
peated remark.
a house in the whole course of her
life,
and
now, a European, the appearance of the tight pantaloons must naturally have struck her as something very extraordi-
never, probably
nary.
she
till
But the remarkable
plainness with
made her remarks, and
which
the inconveniences
MEMOIRS OF
96
which she suggested dress,
me
impressed
as
resulting
from the
very strongly with the
was a person of should have said that
idea that the lady
herself
doubtful modesty.
I
married ladies are accustomed to see company of both sexes, but the privilege to others, so that
we had
ters of the Sheik,
is
not extended
never seen the daugh-
although
we
understood that
they resided in an adjoining tent.
In looking for
my
day into the tent
horse, I
wandered one
allotted to the use of the
and found them seated on carpets without their veils. They got up on my enprincesses,
trance, and, perceiving
me
strangers, they
gave
hands on the
breast,
my
Seeing
me
to be one of the
the salam, crossing the
and making a low bow.
mistake on the instant, I made a
The
hasty excuse, and immediately retired.
hour was sion
early,
and having made a short excur-
on horseback,
when
I
1
to breakfast,
mentioned the mistake which
committed
in the morning.
the Sheik was to take
having
returned
left
me
The
first
I
had
feeling of
seriously to task for
the tents unattended.
SIR
The dently
truth
JAMES CAMPBELL.
the old gentleman was evi-
is,
much out
97
of
humour
at the sad solecism
had committed in point of politeness, in leaving him to be charged with a neglect of his I
duties, as the entertainer of strangers, if
accident had befallen
wanderings. cause to
At
first
me I
which he addressed me.
how
in the course of
was
at a loss to
the obvious
assign
any
irritation
my
what with
He
began by asking I could think of using him so ill ? and on
inquiring in what manner I had given him of" Do fence, he continued, you not know that
every body sees you are a Giaour, though dressed like us as
;
and that
you might have been
if
killed,
for the value of
shining arms, the curse of
on me and mine
you had been
your
God would have
lit
!"
Although exceedingly irascible, the old man was easily appeased by the deference which I naturally paid to his age and
station.
while I readily ascribed the error
mitted to
my own
I
But
had com-
ignorance and inexperience,
I could not conceal
from myself that these
wanderers over the desert are deeply imbued VOL.
II.
H
MEMOIRS OF
98
"
with the truest principles of hospitality. said the old
man, in a tone of
good-humour,
"
you Giaours
Ah,"
and
reconciliation
are sadly ignorant
of correct usages."
Although the mistake
I
had committed
in
the morning, in entering the tent of the ladies, sels,
who were
had been
deny that just
their
what
stances to
it
really
young very good-looking dam-
totally overlooked, I could not
deportment on the occasion was
should have been under circum-
them
so unusual.
I
was
satisfied
from their demeanour that they must have been educated with care, and with a due attention to instil into their
minds becoming sentiments
of modesty and propriety.
At
the same time, I was
miss from
my
recollection
still
unable to
dis-
the extraordinary
observations which had been
made by
their
mother, in speaking of our dandy surgeon and his
European habiliments, and
I could not help
regarding her with very different sentiments.
Soon afterwards,
in the course of conversation
at the door of our tent, the subject of marriage
became a topic of
discussion,
and
I took the
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
opportunity of expressing
my
99
surprise to the
had no more children, they were so great a blessing. Perhaps, I added, with princess that she
becoming gravity for there no one smiles, and a laugh would be ascribed to the grossest rudeness or folly
"
my
the prince
is
too old.
she said, " but I am.
Not
so,"
sons,
they are almost men,
my
Look
daughters,
How
they are growing up to womanhood. could
I,
with the modesty or dignity of a mo-
ther, appear before these state
you
allude to.
be justly considered
Thus sion,
I
at
found that
and not
young people
" No," she added, as a it
I
in the
should
woman without shame." was only
in the expres-
in the idea that there
was any
appearance of deficiency in the purest senti-
ments of propriety and decorum, and I was heartily ashamed of my own want of penetration in not having sooner observed such a well-
defined distinction.
In the course of our stay with the Sheik, there arrived at the tents a sort of travelling merchant,
with twelve or fourteen
two
asses,
each loaded with
bales of goods, proportioned to the ani-
H
2
MEMOIRS OF
100
*
The hour
mal's strength.
of his appearance
was just before dinner, and leaving the
asses in
the care of his attendant, he walked upon his arrival to the principal tent,
received bless
him with the usual
you
!"
bestowing.
where the Sheik salute of "
which the old man never
He
God
failed in
then assured him of welcome,
that he should have fodder for his cattle, and
that his tent was always open to the traveller.
The man and
his attendant ass-driver appeared
to be regarded as having been raised into an
equality with the Sheik, his family and guests,
from the mere circumstance of strangers,
and
I could not refuse
their
my
being
tribute of
admiration to the patriarchal manner in which
In seating ourselves at the
he received them. board, he sit
down
tilious
made
the merchant and the ass-driver
beside him, and attended with punc-
observance to
all their
wants.
After dinner he caused them to be presented
with pipes and
coffee,
in
common with
Consuls and the other guests. too, the invariable
He
the
followed,
custom of the country, by
abstaining from the proposal of a single ques-
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
tion until the strangers
were assured of hospi-
and protection, by having
tality
He
drank.
101
"
then inquired,
first
eaten and
From whence
come you ? Whither are you going ? And what are the goods you have got to dispose
To which
of ?"
from the
fair
the other answered, " I
of Bagdad
come
I travel through this
;
country, and have arrived at your tents in the
hope of
my
goods, which consist of the
productions of Bussorah, and Guzerat,
finest
the
selling
kingdom of Cambai, and the more
parts of India."
" It
well," said the Sheik,
is
and the merchant took
distant
his leave to look after
his cattle.
The same I
had
evening, the
seen, sent a
young
ladies
message to their
whom
father, to
ask that they might be allowed to see the
goods which had been brought by the merchant a request which was readily granted, and, indeed, in this country
it is
deny any request which
by
is
quite unusual to
made
to a parent
grown-up children. Two of the richest were accordingly sent into the tent appro-
his
bales
priated to the ladies,
who
each selected four or
MEMOIRS OF
102 five dresses of
the rarest kinds of gold and
muslins.
Their mother joined us, and
silver
expressed her admiration of the dresses in the strongest terms, but not, as
it
appeared to me,
from any wish to add to her own wardrobe, but
an inducement to the Sheik to enlarge
as
the order which his daughters had given to the
merchant.
ladies sent
By-and-by the young
another message to their father, asking leave to purchase
some additional
articles
he observed, that he liked to make
;
on which
his children
happy, and said to their messenger, that they
might keep the two
bales
for their inspection.
mate the value of
manner
in
do not attempt to
I
this princely gift,
greatly enhanced in less
which had been sent
my
which
eyes it
by the
esti-
which was pretention-
was bestowed.
He
asked no question of the merchant as to the price of his goods, but simply said to
"
Go I
to
my Sheraff, and
desire
him
him to pay you."
had a good deal of conversation with
this
merchant, as to the nature of
his
travelling traffic,
which he
said
he had carried on over
an extensive tract of country for a number of
JAMES CAMPBELL.
Sill
103
Every where, he said, he met with a good and hospitable reception, that he was protected in his dealings, and was honestly paid years.
for all that
was taken from him.
I inquired if
he never went down to the coast of the Mediterranean,
"
God
where
forbid
so
he
!"
strangers resorted.
many
said,
" that I should ever go
there again, or have farther dealings with the
Giaours.
I
thought them good and honest,
found them
but
They took every thing from me, promised me my own
price,
and gave
Aga
to complain
no
far otherwise.
me ;
nothing.
he told
men
justice against these
came from
distant countries,
ject to his control.
they
me
let
In
this country,
them
is
to the
he could do of the
sea,
me
who
and were not sub-
not therefore won-
they take
my
goods or
alone, at all events they receive
kindly, and
The
It
went
have never since revisited the
derful that I coast.
me
I
peculiar
what can
I ask for
ideas of the
more
?"
people of this
country in regard to honour and good faith in pecuniary transactions, have often themselves on
my mind
impressed
with permanent
effect.
MEMOIRS OF
104
But while many circumstances present themselves to illustrate the impression, I could not
readily mention a
what occurred tillery,
more
striking incident than
to an officer of the
who was
Bengal Ar-
charged with dispatches from
When
India to Constantinople.
he arrived at
Bagdad, he found that his finances were about to be exhausted,
who
and sent
transact all
the
for
money
one of the Jews business of the
country to supply his wants.
From an inspection of the officer's papers, the Jew was satisfied of the truth of his representations,
but observed, that
it
was not per-
mitted to transact with a stranger, without the authority of
the Governor of
Pasha of the
city.
went together
to the
necessary sanction, it,
The
Pasha
when
he pointed to one of
officer
Bagdad, the and the Jew
to
obtain
the
in place of granting
his attendants,
and said
would supply what was necessary for the officer's journey, at the same time directing that he
the
Jew
to attend
this person,
who was
treasurer of the Pasha's household,
the 4000 piastres, the
sum
at
the
and receive
which the Bengal
Sill
JAMES CAMPBELL.
had estimated
officer
his
were then brought
coffee
Pipes and
wants. in,
the Pasha pro-
posed a number of questions on
and
if
indifferent
whether he had been com-
subjects, inquired fortable,
105
he were in want of any personal
service.
In the mean time, the Sheraff and the Jew
money, when the Pasha observed to the officer, that he was no doubt
returned with
the
fatigued with his journey, and that he would
do well to go to his lodgings and seek for some repose but before his departure he asked for ;
ink and paper and a reed, which being brought to
him he began
on
his
knee
as
he
to write, leaning as sat
on
his carpet.
is
usual
The Pasha
inquired the meaning of this proceeding,
when
the officer explained that he was writing an order for the repayment of the
money by
the
agent at Constantinople for the British East India
Company.
At
the greatest surprise.
be a singular people. ger to desires
tell
;
me
his
Pasha expressed " "This," he said, must
this the
He
wants
he has eaten
;
arid
comes to
me
a stran-
I give
him what he
drank
at
my
board,
MEMOIRS OF
106
and now he seeks to cancel the favour which he has received at
Teach him that
hands.
not agreeable to our Eastern usages, and
this is
bid
my
him go
in peace."
when
I omitted to mention that the Sheik, so
much
offended with
to ride out unattended,
me
for
having ventured
had sent for
his
immediately on being appeased, and
me,
nephew said
to
" This
young man has orders to attend you With him you may go in safety in
always.
any direction and to any distance;" and in order to assure
me
of the unlimited hospitality
with which I was entertained, he desired me, with an Oriental latitude of lodged in
man
if I so desired
made
I
licence, to sell the tents I
a
found that from
it.
number of
of
young
excursions,
and I
my
was no limit
where I would.
inquiries as to the
mode
of these people at other seasons of the
life
year, I
was told that they moved from one
district to another, in
ation
this
this period there
to the liberty of travelling
In answer to
With
consequence of one
situ-
being favourable to the cultivation of
their crops,
and others
far distant
being only
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
suitable for the
pasture for their
107
more important purposes of numerous flocks. The place
where we found the tents of the Sheik, the
at
commencement of our journey, was what
may be
called their agricultural district,
where
and other kinds of grain were raised in considerable quantities but I was told maize, and
rice,
;
that the wealth of the Sheik consisted chiefly in his flocks,
and that he was owner of not
than 100,000 sheep, besides horses, a vast
less
many hundreds
number of black
of
and about
cattle,
What
he chiefly valued himself upon was an hundred brood mares of a race sixty camels.
which were held
in
very high estimation.
In what I have called the agricultural trict,
at
the ground
is
one season, when
of harvest.
number
The
dis-
prepared and the seed sown it is left
tribe
until the approach
then return or send the
necessary for cutting
down
the crop,
and securing it in those subterranean barns which I have already described. Some years before I saw him, he had a war with a neighbouring
was
told,
tribe,
and mustered,
above 15,000 horse.
as I
Part of his
re-
MEMOIRS OF
108
venues
which
arise is
from a
capitation
tax,
paid by the inhabitants of his ter-
ritory, in return
affords
of
sort
protection which he
for the
them, but in conformity with the feudal
system, they are also liable to the performance
of personal services to
when
the chief has occasion
go to war. In the course of our journey with the Sheik,
we came
within sight of Antioch, but for a
reason, perhaps similar to that
which made him
so chary of a public appearance at Aleppo, con-
with his rank and
sistent
station,
he did not
approach nearer than six miles to the town, although with some of the other strangers I
had the
At
curiosity to approach
another time,
it
we went
more
nearly.
out to hunt the
wild boar, and killed, I think, fourteen or fifteen,
but did not take up one of them, since
in these countries, as all the world knows, the flesh of the
hog
is
held in abhorrence, and
had learned enough of
their
we
manners to avoid
doing violence to the feelings or prejudices of our hospitable entertainer.
At
length
we made our
preparations for re-
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
109
turning to Aleppo, the principal of which was the arrangement of the presents, which,
cording to the custom of the country,
it
ac-
was
necessary to give to the attendants of the Sheik. I
had always been a
made
fancier of horses,
and had
a purchase of one from a person con-
nected with the Sheik's household, and while
making the
purchase, I had expressed some
admiration of another which was standing by. It is possible that the
one I bought had really if it
did I was ig-
norant of the fact at the time.
Having em-
belonged to the Sheik, but
braced the Sheik, and proceeded on our journey
towards Aleppo to a considerable distance,
it
was announced to us by one of our attendants, that
we were pursued by
a person at speed.
This proved to be a favourite attendant of the Sheik,
who
in his hand,
the
rest,
galloped
up
and singling
requested
me
so without reflection,
a single speed,
to us with a led horse
me
out from
to hold the bridle
and
among ;
I did
he, without saying
word more, disappeared with equal
and
his abrupt
left
us to conjecture the cause of
and extraordinary
visit.
The
horse
MEMOIRS OF
110
he
left
with
me
proved to be the same I had
casually admired in
making
my
previous pur-
was agreed on all hands that I had no alternative but to retain it as a gift from chase,
and
it
the Sheik.
During
my
former stay in the house of the
had a proof that an animal, thought to be the most untamable of
British Consul, I
which
is
the savage tribes, strict
may by
proper treatment, and
attention to the nature of
its
food, be
brought completely under subjection, and
suf-
fered to go about like other domestic animals.
had a hysena brought to me about three or four weeks old, which I caused to be fed exI
clusively
on bread and milk, taking care that
he was never suffered to
For myself,
1
taste
was quite
safety of permitting
any animal food. satisfied as to
him the range of my
ments, but I confess, that I never in felt so
much
the
apart-
my
life
alarm as when sitting one day
with the Consul's lady, in one of the public rooms of the mansion, my wild-looking protege entered the apartment, his eyes glaring in a style well suited to alarm a lady
who had
at
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
the
moment an
up
to him, and pushed
\
infant in her arms.
Ill
I hastened
him gently out of the the attendants, I had the
room, and calling for
satisfaction to find that the lady's
alarm had
subsided without any serious consequences.
The hyaena remained
in this
tame
several months,
but in the course of
from Aleppo,
found that
I
my
state for
my absence
servants
had not
attended to his regimen in the manner I had I
prescribed.
was assured that he had been
permitted to gorge himself with animal food.
At as
all
events, his state
make
to
it
on
my
return was such
impossible to keep
him any
longer, but the result of the experiment con-
firmed
me
in the idea so quaintly expressed
by
the author of Hudibras, that any wild animal
may be tamed by mere " Was
ever
man
attention to diet.
For,
yet fierce or cruel
Upon the strength of water gruel But who '11 withstand the rage and ;
Of him who
rides,
Before taking
my
force
then eats his horse."
final leave
of Aleppo, I
must notice one or two circumstances which took some hold of
my
imagination, and
may
MEMOIRS OF therefore afford a moment's interest to others as
they did to me.
When I sent me of
for a tailor, for instance, to
a suit of clothes
my
;
make
he took a cursory survey
person, not, indeed, with the precision of
him of Laperta with
his quadrant,
but
ciently it seems for the purpose in view.
suffi-
He
then presented his patterns for the different parts of the dress, I
and made the salam to
depart.
mentioned the omission he had made in not
taking
measure, but he answered that that
my
was unnecessary, and in clothes,
fact it
proved
from the great amplitude of
so;
the
their form,
being sufficiently exact.
The
bazar of Aleppo
richest in the East, the
is
perhaps one of the
town being
situated in
the centre of trade in that part of the world.
Here you may find commodities from all parts of the world, and in every imaginable variety.
The
bazar
is
to include a for the
sale
a covered space of such extent as
number of of
streets,
and
different kinds
as the shops
of wares are
to memingled together without any attention thod or arrangement, the sight of the traffic
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
affords to a stranger a scene
amusement.
Among
113
of very various
the purchasers there
a great proportion of females, but their dress
is is
make the concealment of
so constructed as to
their persons complete, so
much
so that they
could not be recognized by their nearest con-
Women
nections. dislike to
as well
as
be confined in close
men attire
appear to ;
and the
appearance of the females, as they are seen walking in the bazar, I can compare to nothing so well as to so
on yellow
many
feet, for
sugar-loaves
such
is
moving about
uniformly the colour
of their boots.
The
baths are very magnificent structures,
and those used by the women receive of stained glass. light through cupolas
their
I never,
of course, had the privilege of entering these,
although I have heard of travellers
They are heated,
of such advantages.
by vapour, which
raised
is
hot water traversing the
ments
who boasted
from
floors
little rills
take the bath,
VOL.
II.
first
of
of the apart-
like a miniature meadow-field
process of irrigation.
I believe,
under the
The person who
is
to
enters an apartment very I
MEMOIRS OF
114 little
above the temperature of the open
The next Next
of the suite
to that
is
the
first
air.
the dressing-room.
is
of the range of baths,
which gradually rise in temperature through a long series of rooms to any degree of heat
The
which may be required. in
any or each of them
convenience
may
as
bather remains
long as pleasure or
and returns through
dictate,
the same suite of apartments in which the degrees of heat, although constantly
the same,
affect the bather in a regular, decreasing ratio.
The antichambers and
dressing-rooms
are
very extensive, and there the slaves remain in attendance to dress and undress the bathers.
When
they come out of the bath, their faces
are swelled
and
florid,
and there
is
something
about the expression of their eye which gives
you the idea of some degree of mental trangement.
Corpulency they consider a de-
cided beauty, and they think
the bath, although in to
es-
my
it
promoted by
opinion the use of
it
excess produces a flaccidity of the skin,
and other disagreeable appearances, so fact to accelerate that
as
in
premature old age to
Silt
JAMES CAMPBELL.
115
which the women of Eastern countries are otherwise peculiarly
Thick ankles are
liable.
also
considered a point of beauty, and to increase it,
it
common
said to be a
is
Turkish
women
to
scarify
practice
among
the skin,
which
thus becomes thick and callous.
remind the reader that
women
need not
I
of a certain
rank are never seen, but such of these parti-
had not an opportunity of witnessperson, I state on the authority of Mrs.
culars as I
ing in
Baxter, the wife of the English Consul,
who
had the best opportunities of observing, and was herself a very beautiful and intelligent
young woman.
The mosques
are accessible to every stranger.
In these buildings there
but the
priest, or
is
nothing to be seen
mollah, saying prayers, and
the audience kneeling on the mats with which
the floor is covered. There are no
no symbols of
religion,
altars,
no
nothing but the
seats,
priest,
the audience, and the mats on which they kneel.
The
service
on each occasion
is
of short
continuance, being repeated seven times a day,
and each time accompanied by ablution. i
2
The
MEMOIRS OF
116 lower
classes
public fountains plies
;
of water are not to be procured, I under-
stand that earth that
ceremony at the and in places where the sup-
perform this
it
is
substituted from the idea
contains water.
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
117
II
CHAPTER Intelligence from England.
V.
Set out for England.
The Arabian Horse.
of the Caravan.
Adventures of an Arab.
Route
Anecdotes.
Description of an Arab horse-
man
Mode of Progress of a Caravan. Weapons. making Arab breads An Encampment. Reception from an Arab Chief. His Establishments. Arrival through the Hamah.
Desert at the district. dotes.
Mode
Ceremonies and Presentations.
Arab Anec-
of living and passing
-An agree-
Odd
able Visit. Prescription.
The Sheraff of
Latikea
Orontes.
A Fair
Mistake.
Sudden
my
time.
Patient.
influx of Patients,
A
Soldier's
and Professional
Fame. ^
AFTER I
had been about a year at Aleppo, received intelligence from England which I
was calculated
to inspire
uneasiness and alarm.
me
My
with the greatest eldest son,
George
Callander, had married the daughter of a Scotch
VOL.
II.
I
3
MEMOIRS OF
118 advocate,
who had
stipulated to give a marriage
portion with his daughter.
Subsequently he thought of examining the titles
and muniments of
one of those liar to
estate at Craigs
me
had descended to
which
forth,
my
strict
under
which are pecu-
entails
Scotland, through a long series of gene-
rations.
In the communication which I received Aleppo,
I
at
was told that certain proceedings
had been instituted in the Courts of Scotland, in the
name of my
son George,
who was
of
course the next heir of entail, for the purpose
of setting aside vesting
it
my
right to the estate,
and
under pretence of a which declared that the
in his person,
clause in the entail,
right of any heir in possession should be liable i
to be irritated and resolved, (according to the
Scotch law-phrase,) at the suit of any succeed-
ing heir, so long as any debt of the
first
maker
V
of the entail should remain a burden on the property.
Now
it
appeared that the father-in-law
of George Callander, had discovered that a debt
SIR
of this kind
JAMES CAMPBELL.
119
existed to the amount, I think,
still
of 200/. and although I had never heard of
it,
made at all acquainted with its influence
nor was
or tendency, I was informed that
would be
liable to suffer
my
very severely
interests if I
did
not return immediately to Scotland and oppose the proceedings which had been taken in son's
my
name.
On
the receipt of this intelligence, I was not
long in making to England.
my
The
preparations for first
my
return
caravan which was to
proceed to the Mediterranean coast had Tripoli, in Africa, for its destination.
And
here again
I
have to express the deep sense I have always entertained of the kindness and warmth of heart of
me
my
friend Mr. Baxter, in providing for
the necessary supplies for
my journey
on
a very short notice, an obligation which was
poorly repaid by a mere pecuniary remittance
on
my The
return to Europe.
caravan stopped as usual for a day at a
place about six miles from Aleppo, for the pur-
pose of completing the arrangements for the journey.
There
I
joined
it
on the following
MEMOIRS OF
120
morning, attended, town, by
all
on
as
my
entry into the
the European Consuls and principal
Christian inhabitants.
The
route of the caravan lay at
first
through
the great Desert of Syria, and then through the
country of Hamah, the most celebrated in the
world for
breed of horses
its
;
and
was a
this
circumstance peculiarly agreeable to me, as desirous of
horse of that unequalled race.
was
home with me
things to carry
all
I
The purity
a
of the
and preserved in this country with greater precision and facility, in consequence of the horses and mares, to the number breed
is
ascertained
of one hundred and upwards, being uniformly
held in
common
or tribe.
with of a tree its
all
The
property by a particular family line of succession
the care and
Welsh
all
is
preserved
the accuracy perhaps
and in the genealogical of the horse which I ultimately purchased, pedigree
;
descent was professedly traced to the famous
black mare of
Mahomed, and
of the fact, subscribed
by
I
had a
certificate
five or six Sheiks,
who
have an obvious interest in keeping up the va-
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
lue of their breed of horses
by
121
this exactness in
their pedigree. It
is
and through them it is that puof blood is most depended on. The sister
value rity
on the mares, however, that the chief
is
placed,
home with me, made the purchase.
of the horse which I brought
was I
for sale at the time I
examined her with the greatest
care,
and could
not detect the semblance of a fault in any one of her points.
Like
all
the others of the race,
she was under fifteen hands high
put upon her by the tribe ed was 10,000
The
money.
piastres,
and the price to which she belong;
equal to 2,500/. of our
value of the mare
is
always
much
greater than that of a horse of equal symmetry,
from the idea of her greater influence in preserving the purity of the race.
paid for the horse,
own
The
price I
brother to this mare,
was 800 Venetian sequins, equal to about 400/. and I incline to think it was not far sterling ;
out of proportion, according to their ideas, to the price of the other.
While
I
was yet
in the district
where these
MEMOIRS OF horses are bred, an agent arrived from the
of Prussia, commissioned to
He
his Majesty.
make
purchases for
me
agreed with
King
in admiring
the mare, and declared she was the handsomest
animal he had ever seen.
He
to give the 10,000 piastres for
was even willing her, but the tribe
had come to the resolution of preserving her as a brood mare, and refused that sum when offered.
It
are
two
is
to be observed, however, that there
distinct races in the country, the noble
and the common.
Among
the
many
latter,
beautiful horses are often to be found, but they
never possess those qualities in perfection for
which the noble race of Arabia fleetness,
distinguished
is
so peculiarly
wind, and bottom.
Here too I must observe, that the horses brought from Barbary are not to be compared
any good quality with the noble breed of Hamah. Many of the Barbs have radical faults,
in
and some of them
are very ugly, goose-rumped,
The
differ-
unknown
in this
cat-hammed, and narrow-chested. ence of the breeds was long country, but
Barb
I
now
believe
is
it is
better understood,
seldom bred from.
and a
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR I
shall here
mention
123
a circumstance,
on the
authority of persons in that country whose good faith
and
I
respectability
had no reason to
doubt, as illustrating in rather a striking point
of view the marked distinction between the dif-
which are
rear-
pitched his tent in a
soli-
ferent races of this noble animal,
ed in the same
An
Arab,
district.
who had
tary spot of the desert, his family,
had occasion to leave
with his stock of the
common
of horses and mares, for a single night.
breed
On
his
return to the place in the morning, he found
and
whole property had been carried off in the night. He was mountthat his family
his
ed on a horse of the noble breed, and of the highest qualities, and having a
he
set
rifle
with him,
On
out alone in pursuit of the robbers.
coming up with them, he found that their numbers were considerable, but he had reason to believe that they
were not possessed of
fire-
arms, which proved to be the fact.
Approaching near enough to within the range of his
wounded one
or
bring them
gun, he fired and
more of them, and waving
his
MEMOIRS OF
124
hand he dared them to follow him. attempted, but found
it
fruitless.
This they
He
then re-
turned to the attack, and again succeeded in singling out one or
two of them with
his rifle.
Once more they pursued him with the fleetest of their horses, but to overtake him was imposThus he hung upon their rear, woundsible. ing and killing several of them, until he at length compelled them to restore the booty.
The accoutrements
of the
Arab horsemen
are
simple in their construction, and well suited to
The
his wants.
saddle
is
generally large, and
The
always easy to ride on.
straps are
made
of untanned leather, and are fastened without
A ring
buckles. girth,
is
attached to the end of the
and another to the corresponding part of
the saddle.
Through these rings a strap is repeatedly passed, and drawn together with such force as to bring them near to each other, after
which, the strap
is
fastened
by twisting the ends
round the part thus tightened. The saddle thus never displaced, and, indeed, seldom
fixed
is
taken
off,
except for the temporary purpose of
grooming, when
it
is
again immediately re-
placed, although there be
no intention of
rid-
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
125
Cruppers are seldom used, because they
ing.
are not necessary to
keep the saddle in
its place,
and because they never carry any thing behind
The
it.
shoes are a thin
flat
piece of iron, with
a hole in the middle to keep the foot cool,
something in the form of our shoe,
but extremely
as to yield
stone.
light,
common
and even
bar
flexible, so
with the foot when pressed upon a
The numerous
diseases to
horses are liable are scarcely
which our
known
in these
countries.
Sometimes, indeed,
I
have seen a lame horse,
upon inquiry, the cause was generally to be traced to some accident, either in a skirmish, but,
or from riding violently, which they do with-
out hesitation over the roughest ground.
Al-
though never a very timorous rider, I have frequently felt somewhat uneasy at the style in
which they carried
me
over a country which
the boldest rider in England would hesitate to follow.
In going down a declivity not
less,
perhaps, than forty-five degrees, where stones as large as a table
directions, I
to guide
my
were scattered about
in all
was proceeding with some caution horse over the difficulties of th e
MEMOIRS OF
126
ground, when an Arab called out to me, and I
was induced ever afterwards vice,
" Give
as well as
you
him
to follow the ad-
he
his head,
sees the stones
do."
Every body has seen the Turkish
bridle;
they never use a curb, but the ring which
is
put into the mouth serves the same purpose the
bit,
which
is
very
so light, acting
power-
by means of the lever attached to force the mouth open and keep it so
fully,
to
it,
as
nei-
:
ther do they ever use the snaffle, or bridoon I tried
it
in the
hope of
but to horse and rider
its it
;
;
easing the mouth,
proved equally
in-
Although they use such powerful bridles, the Arabs ride with a heavy hand, so as to sustain the horse in advancing, and to
convenient.
curb him in action.
This they are able to do
very effectually, and in throwing the jereed is
absolutely necessary.
Perhaps the most
markable point about the Arabian horse
is
it
re-
the
extraordinary smallness of the head and mouth, so small indeed
is
the
think they might use a water bucket.
latter,
that
you would
common tumbler
for a
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
The short,
but the seat of the rider
account the rising strike
by the Arab
stirrup used
on
less
secure,
and
it
127
is
singularly
not on that
is
enables him, in
throw the jereed, or to a blow, to do it with an infinitely inhis stirrup to
The sudden jerk which
creased effect.
is
often
given in these exercises to the stirrup-leather,
makes
it
secure
necessary to
we
firmly than
This
do.
much more
it
done by ten or
is
twelve straps or thongs, and the stirrup-iron, in place of being a
bar, is so constructed
whole foot to
as to allow the
on a plate of
rest
from the toe to some distance
iron reaching
behind the
narrow
where
heel,
it
is
sharpened so as
to serve the purposes of a spur.
The Arab
feels that his safety
depends on
the quality of his accoutrements, and this a
point to which his
is
constantly
In action they never dismount, so
directed.
when you ment without that
that he
attention
is
is
see a horse during an engage-
a
you may conclude In the badly wounded.
rider,
killed or
hands of a European habits of the
Arab
unaccustomed to the
horse,
and unacquainted
MEMOIRS OF
128 witli the
manner of
treating him, the animal
appears to be extremely vicious, but let the
same horse be mounted by a native horseman,
and he
will
be found to be gentle,
docile,
and
obedient. I need say nothing of the their favourite
weapon, and
which
sabre,
is
always light and
is
handy, of a curved form, and of considerable strength, the best being
made
But the use of the jereed
known; steel
It
is
its
is
length
is
Damascus.
at
about four
feet,
in
a small case under the
thigh of the horseman, so as to enable
is
with a
head well-tempered and well-sharpened. used as a missile, and four of them are
generally carried
seize
much
not so
him
to
one of them very quickly, and the case
fastened to the saddle
by
loops behind and
before.
They have
also a
kind of reed
in the
form
of the jereed, with which they are accustomed to
amuse themselves
in sham-fights, yet even
these are often thrown with such force, celerity,
and
precision, as to
to parry the stroke.
make
it
extremely
They assemble
difficult
in parties
SIR to enjoy
JAMES CAMPBELL.
this
which they
and the speed with and still more the dexterity
exercise,
gallop,
with which they turn their horses, description or belief.
catch the jereed
Arab
his horse
The is
in his
beyond
Frequently they will
of their adversary
darted through the see an
is
It
air.
is
as
it
is
then that you
true character
a part of
a real centaur.
ordinary rate at which a caravan travels
about thirty miles a day.
this journey,
after
with the route,
I
In the course of
making myself acquainted was induced on one or two
occasions to leave the caravan for a day's journey to the right or left,
farther advanced.
me is
and to join
it
again
when
One of these rambles brought
acquainted with the manner in which bread
baked
in the
Arabian
at the caravanserai
villages.
where
I
lodge for the night, I found
On
arriving
had intended to it
on the borders
of the territory of two neighbouring tribes, be-
tween
whom
there existed
the caravanserai was state
filled
some
dispute.
with armed
men
As in a
of bustle and excitement, I resolved to
proceed to a village some miles farther in adVOL.
II.
K
MEMOIRS OF
If30
meal was prepared in the apartment where I sat, and as is usual in In this village
vance.
my
the country, the bread was kneaded as well as
baked just It is
and
is
as it
was about
composed of the rolled without
cakes extremely thin. is
made of
iron, in the
to be used.
wheaten
finest
any yeast or leaven into The oven is movable and
form and about the
which opens downwards,
made
is
to
fit
to a circular opening in the floor, in
of charcoal
is
a narrow grating
somewhat
which a
by one person with
fire
similar to
The oven
a gridiron, and also movable. lifted
exactly
prepared, and over the is laid,
size,
The mouth,
or rather larger, than a bee-hive.
fire
flour,
two
its
is
handles,
while another spreads the cake like a lining over
its interior surface,
baked the bread
falls
and being always eaten immediate use.
and when
off
sufficiently
upon the
hot, it
is
gridiron,
served up for
Partly from curiosity to see an encampment of the Courdine Arabs, and
partly from
a
desire to avoid the danger of remaining over-
night exposed to the unhealthy vapours of a
Sill
marshy halted,
JAMES CAMPBELL.
situation I
caravan had
which the
in
resolved in another instance to se-
parate myself from
for the
it
a mile distant from the
had been fixed
About
night.
*
swampy
spot which
for the night's station of the
caravan, I observed a
number of
tents,
on an eminence where there was
pitched
at least
no
danger of malaria, whatever there might be of personal violence, and I mentioned to the
Mockra night.
my He
intention of going there to pass the
attempted to dissuade me, by the
alarming accounts which are generally given of this
savage tribe
of the race
but
;
as I
who had made good and Aleppo and
domestic servants in
bourhood
;
had seen individuals
as it
between two
its
faithful
neigh,
was here but a compromise
sorts of danger, the
one obvious
and immediate, the other only problematical; and as the hazards
pointed out by the Mockra are
generally greater in description than in reality, I resolved to take I
might meet with
my
chance of the reception
at this warlike
encampment.
Seeing that I did not listen with
much
at-
tention to the arguments he urged on me, the
K 2
MEMOIRS OF Mockra then recommended least
lake nothing with
that I should at
me
to
tempt the cu-
pidity of these wandering savages.
I agreed
accordingly to divest myself of
with nothing but
my
pipe in
my arms, my hand, I
and pro-
ceeded on foot to the tents of the Courdines.
There aspect,
was
saw a vast number of people, but their although in general somewhat ungainly,
I
from being
far
had represented.
so hideous as the
Mockra
I inquired for their chief,
when they pointed out to me a hard-favoured man who had lost an eye, and who appeared from
his
manner
as if
he had just returned
from some excursion. sence were far
His demeanour and prefrom prepossessing, and he car-
ried a club of rather a formidable size leaning
over his shoulder.
and with an
air
However,
of as
much
I approached him,
frankness as I could
assume, I said that I came to ask his hospitality for the night. tent,
to
He
and ordered
make our
part to
invited
coffee
and
acquaintance.
show no want of
me
to
cakes,
walk into the which served
I took care on
confidence,
my
from a
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
conviction that a proportional
would have
resulted from
When we
had
133
want of
safety
it.
finished our coffee,
and were
taking our pipes, he began to inquire whence I
had come, and whither
satisfied
I
When
was going.
on these points, he observed that
this
was probably the first encampment of the tribe which I had had an opportunity of seeing and on my acquiescence in the observation, he ;
proposed that I should walk out with him to
and other objects of he presented me to two
see his tents, his cattle, curiosity.
But
young men
first
his sons,
who brought with them
a
fine little savage his grandson.
We showed said
out together, when he
then walked
me
first
a
number of
were excellent
cattle.
camels, which he
His horses
I
ad-
mired extremely, and seeing that I was pleased with the sight, he carried to the place
where
his
me
to
some
distance,
brood mares were
col-
amounting in number to at least an hundred some with foal, and others with foals lected,
;
at their feet,
but
all
kept in such excellent order,
MEMOIRS OF
134 as
to
cleanliness
and
I could
care, that
not
choose but admire them, knowing, as I did, that if these mares had been in Europe, their
value would have been incredible.
On
our return to the
tents,
he pointed out
on the neighbouring hills, we had arrived, he observed that
his flocks of sheep
and it
soon as
as
was time
among
for evening prayer
this savage race,
;
so that, even
they are not inatten-
tive to their religious observances.
came was
to the tent,
we found
a fire lighted,
for the purpose of keeping
quitoes,
and soon
after,
When we which
away the mos-
supper was served.
Meantime he observed
to
me, that the fur-
thermost part of the tent, which was in
from sixty to seventy tation of the
feet long,
women and
was the habi-
children,
must not approach it. The supper a roasted lamb dressed with honey,
and that
made
into syrup,
lent sweetmeat,
As
and
I
consisted of in the
man-
ner of the country, afterwards a plate of berries,
all
bil-
which made an excel-
finally a dish of dates.
soon as our repast was finished, which,
our drink being water, was not attended with
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
135
any intemperance, the chief pointed out to me the place where I should sleep, and observed, at the same time, that his two sons should
on each side of me,
lest, as
lie
one
he was pleased to
should want any thing during the night.
say, I
The bed was soon made, as it consisted of a number of carpets, the upper one being of Persian manufacture, of the
I then
went
to sleep,
and addressed myself to
the drowsy god with so I did not
awake
Mockra came
most valuable kind.
much
good- will, that
until a messenger
from the
to inquire for me, and to an-
nounce that the caravan was ready to depart. My toilette and my preparations were easily made, self
;
as all that
but the
was wanted was to shake my-
I could not leave
and smoking a This being
nothing about sent, in
who was
chief,
at hand, said that
him without taking
coffee
pipe.
done,
me
I
which
reflected that
I
had
I could offer as a pre-
compliance with the manners of the
country, but the pipe which I had just been
was fortunately of some value, the mouth-piece being of the purest amber, and
smoking
;
it
MEMOIRS OF
136 the bowl
of the best
He
manufactured
sort
at in-
accepted
it
readily
deed the refusal of a present
is
supposed to
Constantinople.
infer hostility little
;
but, on turning
fellow, his grandson,
;
round to the
and finding that I
had nothing to offer him but money, I took a few piastres from my pocket, and gave them to the boy
;
but the chief took them gently from
him, and, without any remark, returned them to me.
my
I then
bethought myself of the chain of
watch, which was a
several branches I twisted off seals
common
gold one, with
and trinkets attached to each.
one of the branches, to which two
were suspended, and presented
boy, on which the grandfather
it
to the
made me the
salam with an expression of satisfaction. ^
I
next approached to take leave
braced me, thanked
wished
me
me
for
a good journey
;
my
:
he em-
society,
at the
and
same time,
one of his attendants delivered to the messenger
who came from
the caravan a bag of choice
tobacco as a present for me, and to the great surprise of the
Mockra
turned in safetv to
tell
I soon afterwards re-
him the adventures of
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
He
the night.
was
he
not,
said,
great apprehension of their taking
he had no idea of
my
under any
my
life,
but
being permitted to leave
the
camp of the Courdines
my
horses,
until I
and the greater part of
as the price of
137
had sent
my
for
baggage,
my liberty.
This opinion was strongly confirmed by a
who was
respectable Jew,
travelling with the
and who perfectly agreed with the Mockra, that I was much more fortunate in the
caravan,
issue of the adventure, than wise or
prudent
He
had enjoyed various opportunities of observing the manners of the
in
undertaking
Courdines, and
it.
when
table reception I
I told
him of the
hospi-
had met with, he observed
that that was just in keeping with their general character, in
moderation, or
bad It
which there was no medium or
all
that they did being either good
in the extreme.
was agreed, however, on
all
hands, that in
the result I had greatly the advantage of fellow-travellers, as
my
they had passed a very bad
night in the low marshy ground in which the caravan had been stationed.
MEMOIRS OF
138 It
that
was within a few days
we
district
adventure
arrived at the populous and pleasing
of
the desert.
Hamah, after having The town of Hamah
the Orontes, and
its
the heights by which beautiful. trees,
after this
The
fairly cleared is
seated on
aspect on seeing it is
surrounded
it
from
is
truly
groves of orange and almond
with the numerous water-mills which are
moved by
this rapid
and noisy
character to the scene of the
river,
give a
most picturesque
and interesting description, particularly to those who have just crossed the desert, and like me, perhaps, had not seen any similar object for so
long a period before.
Latikea was the
last
had seen which
at all corresponded
with
place it,
I
and the view had the additional charm of
coming unexpectedly upon me in crossing the bite of a hill just at the hour of sunset. Immediately on
my
arrival I
waited on the
Sheraff, or Treasurer of the district, for
I
had fortunately been furnished with
of recommendation, as
it
whom letters
was necessary to make
some stay in the place, from its being a central station where caravans from various quarters
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIK
139
assemble, and after being disorganized are
up
afresh, according to the business
and destina-
The
tion of each individual traveller.
made
Sheraff
was a young man, not above twenty-four years of age, and I found that he was not acquainted
The
with any language but the Arabic.
come
from him was of the most
I received
cordial description
and assured me,
had sent him a
wel-
;
he embraced
Arab
in the
me
warmly,
fashion, that
God
blessing in directing a stranger
to his house.
He
showed
me my
apartments, which ac-
cording to our ideas had but indeed,
little else
room where
I
furniture,
but a few carpets, and in the
was
to dine, a divan raised about
a foot from the ground. tage,
little
They had
however, of being
the advan-
spacious
and
airy,
although the access from the house to the street
The
was awkward and inconvenient. fertile
territory of
Hamah
is
rich
and
surrounded by
the desert, from which the inhabitants are in constant
and
alarm, lest they should be attacked
pillaged, as they
sometimes
of wandering marauders.
are,
by bands
In consequence, the
MEMOIRS OF
140
houses of the town are so constructed as to
some
present
The is
obstacle to
any sudden
immensely thick
walls are
;
attack.
the outer door
only about three feet high, and so narrow
that only one person can enter at a time.
The day after my newed the ceremony
arrival,
of
the Sheraff re-
receiving me, and
brought with him several of his friends to After taking coffee and smok-
present to me.
ing with the strangers, he renewed the expression of his
laying hold of
happiness at
my
arm, he led
my me
arrival,
and
towards the
of the mansion, saying, " These are yours
pillars
house
this
make
is
yours;"
and
he would
as if
a symbolical delivery to strengthen the
warmth of
his expression,
of the pillars and said to " phasis,
You may
sell it."
he laid hold of one
me
with great em-
This seems to be
a sort of idiomatic expression characteristic of
the people, and of the language in which is
it
used, and serves to indicate the intensity of
that
feeling
which
is
said to exist
among
a
people in the inverse ratio of their civilization.
While
I
was yet
at
Hamah, and a
resident in
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
141
the house of the Sheraff, the duties of his office
him
required
to leave
home
for a considerable
Before his departure he repeated the
time.
ceremony of welcome, desiring me to regard the house and every thing in it as my own but ;
mentioning that I should on no account approach the back part of the mansion, which was occupied by his mother and his
Soon
after
sisters.
he was gone, I called
my own
ser-
vants to give orders for purchasing some supplies for
my
table,
when one
of them,
who was
better acquainted with the manners of the country,
inquired
to offend me,
if
the Sheraff had done any thing
and observed that such an
inter-
ference with the arrangements of the household
could not
fail
to be taken very seriously amiss.
In this opinion I concurred, and found that at the usual hour of ten o'clock in the forenoon
an elegant repast was served up, more nearly analogous to our dinner than any other meal.
At
supper, which
is
served
about
six
in
the afternoon, immediately after the prayer of Assera, I
generally found myself visited
some of the principal inhabitants of the
by
place.
MEMOIRS OF
142
The
principal standing dish
was
either a roasted
porcupine or a lamb, followed by a dish of clotted milk, with sugar, dates,
repast
more agreeable and
salubrious than the practice
of indulging in strong liquors. life I
ably
my
continued to pass
my
In this
way
of
days rather agree-
nor would the time have hung heavy on
;
hands, had I not been labouring under so
much of
fruits.
was concluded with pipes and cofof excellent quality, which to me was much
Every fee
and dried
anxiety and apprehension as to the state
my The
affairs in Scotland.
inhabitants of these countries have
a
strange idea that a knowledge of the healing art
is
a universal accomplishment
and
among
had the greatest
the
natives of
Europe
ficulty in
attempting to persuade them that I
;
I
was not a physician, but a mere
commander of
troops,
dif-
seraskier, or
who knew nothing
of medicine or the practice of physic.
at all
On
all
occasions, however, I listened with
attention to
becoming the statements which were made to
me, and answered their questions with care and precision,
and above
all
with the most iinper-
JAMES CAMPBELL.
Sill
turbable gravity
and
;
T
143
never allowed myself to
forget that their observations, although some-
times sufficiently ludicrous, were probably not
more
so than those of a
European might appear In other respects I was an object of
to them.
considerable curiosity, as an infidel, they assu-
red me, had not been seen in that quarter for a
period of twenty-five years.
One day
I
was
my
visited, to
great surprise,
by three females, who being ushered into
my
apartment, I seated myself in the corner, as representing the master of the house, and begged of them to so,
sit
down by me.
One
of them did
but the other two declined, from which I
perceived
that they stood in the relation
each other of mistress and slave, that Oriental sense of these terms.
were veiled and sat
down began
infidels all
she had
in
is
to
in the
The three females
mean attire, but
to observe that,
she
who had
knowing that we
understood the art of the physician,
come
to
me
to
beg that I might cure
her of a complaint which had lean and very miserable.
made her very
I tried, as usual, to
to do persuade her that I was quite unqualified
144
MEMOIKS OF
her the service she required
but she persisted
;
in her solicitations with the greatest importunity,
and
throwing back her
at length,
brought forward her
veil,
she
which was very long
hair,
and very richly braided, with diamonds and pearls interwoven in
you
for
By
" it,
saying,
what you may do
this
time
I
See, I can
pay
for me."
perceived from her complexion
that her disorder proceeded from a weakness
and on inquiry as found that it consisted
of the organs of digestion to her ordinary food, I
;
of zukees, water-melons, and other vegetables
which
are generally eaten raw.
I
still
endea-
voured to defend myself from her importunity, but was
at length constrained to agree to give
her something on the morrow, but at the same
time observed, that what I should prescribe for her,
be
without a radical change of regimen, would
totally useless,
and that
it
would be neces-
sary for her to have her vegetables dressed, to eat with
them
a
and
due proportion of animal
food.
After she was gone, I began to
awkwardness of my
situation.
reflect
on the
Like most other
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
145
Europeans, I had, indeed, with me, a small chest
was now pretty nearly exhausted; and, besides I was unwilling to attempt of medicine, but
it
the use of remedies which might be attended
with pernicious, or at therefore
doubtful
least
mixed up some
effects.
I
grains of bark with a
large proportion of flour, so as to
make it bulky
;
whole into papers, each of which might contain about three grains of the medicine, and gave it to her, when she returned next I divided the
day with her attendants.
It could not, I should
hope, under any circumstances, do her
harm, and I have not the
least
much
doubt that the
change of diet would be highly beneficial to her.
From
this period I
was annoyed with
to such a degree that
able to me.
The
it
reason
visitors
became very disagreeis
obvious
;
they have
no physicians, no medical knowledge whatever some content themselves with the assurance :
that
all
things are already arranged
by the
su-
and perintending care of the Supreme Being, that any thing like medical aid infers the greatest arrogance
VOL.
II.
and presumption
L
;
while others
MEMOIRS OF
146
place implicit reliance on the efficacy of amulets
and charms to ward off the approaches of
The
ease.
better-informed
dis-
among them have
already ceased to confide in such absurdities,
but they have not the
human body so that it is not wonwhen afflicted with internal diseases, that
ture of the derful,
least idea of the struc;
they should
assail
those
whom
they believe to
be acquainted with such subjects, and with the proper remedies.
A man
came
to
me
with
a dropsy, and absolutely would not leave
without a prescription. gre
lui
Like
le
profession
best,
he answered, to drink water
I
Medecin mal-
of Moliere, I was heartily sick of
new
shall I
;
me
my
and asking him what he liked " ;
Then," said
be pardoned for the confession?
drink plenty
!"
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
CHAPTER Proceed towards Tripoli.
dilemma.
VI.
Appearance of Mount Lebanon.
Pursuit of Antelopes.
A
147
Lose sight of the Caravan.
Providential escape.
A
Maronite Convent.
Savage character of the Maronite race. The Cyclamen. Conclusion of the Piercing cold. Mountain Cedars. journey.
ment. test
Application to the British Consul.
Extreme
anxiety.
Disappoint-
Description of Tripoli.
Con-
Anecdotes of the inhabitants.
of rival Pashas.
Alarm of the plague. Predestinarian ideas. Precautions of the Author. Method of communication. Plan adopted by the Consul. Time and manner of its disappearance.
The Pasha's apology.
Alarming incident. modity.
Gorgeous
of embarking, Sail for
Arrival of a vessel.
Reach Cyprus.
Rhodes.
ascendancy.
attire.
Convents.
Privileges.
Staple comDifficulty
Fresh disappointments. Country-houses.
Turkish
Aspect of the Island.
Sports.
Anecdotes of birds.
I
HAD
the satisfaction to find that the caravan,
which was now made up to proceed towards Tripoli, was to be guided by the same Mockra
who had brought me from Aleppo. L 2
Soon
after
MEMOIRS OF
148
leaving the district of
Mount Lebanon
the summit of
appeared over the verge of the
we
horizon, long before
The heavy
Hamah,
arrived at
rains of spring
its
had swelled the
mountain brooks into so many in
some
caravan,
base.
torrents,
and
impeded the progress of the the way became nearly impassable.
places till
About the
first rise
of the mountain, 1 had
stopped some distance behind the caravan, in the hope of getting a shot at a herd of antelopes
Not
which had approached within our view. having succeeded, I of the mountain as
set out,
my
keeping the summit
guide to rejoin the ca-
ravan, but unfortunately took the
wrong
side
of one of these mountain torrents, which, after I
had crossed
it
in the morning,
to such a height as to forbid situation
my
had swelled return.
was such, that I had no resource but
to ascend the course of the stream, in the
of
its
and
diminishing as I approached
that,
by the following day,
its
hope
source
;
at least, I should
be able to overtake the caravan, which
was
My
to proceed in the direction of
I
knew
Mount Le-
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
banon, and to wind
its
way,
149
at a considerable
elevation, along the side of the mountain.
I
had with
me
a single
just before night-fall
Arabs,
whom I
Greek
we were
knew, from
servant,
joined
and
by two
their small turbans,
to be of the tribe of Courdines.
They seemed
desirous of entering into conversation,
and I
was rather uneasy at their approach, but took care to keep them on our left, which is the side most convenient to fire at ; confess that I
and
as I
was better armed than
I thought
we might
they should prove
After
we had
either of them,
possibly escape, although
hostile.
proceeded for some time
to-
began to bethink myself of some pretence for shaking them off, and perceiving at
gether, I
length some houses at a distance, although not exactly in our route, I observed that I had
something to say to these people, and put my horse on the sudden to a hand gallop, accompanied, of course,
by
my Greek servant. Had
I
been in an open country, and had I known precisely
which way to go,
I should
have
felt
MEMOIRS OF
50
befel us
we
;
and when I
As
safe.
myself perfectly
continued to
it
move on
my
horse to determine the direc-
The mountain was
tion of our future progress. sufficiently conspicuous,
me
at a gallop,
I perceived that they did not follow,
puUed up
served
was, no accident
even after sunset, and
found myself
for a guide, until I
entangled in a piece of marshy ground the mountain torrents, where
it
was impossible
any longer to pick my steps with In this awkward predicament content myself, and sitting
with
my
my
bridle in
among
safety. I
resolved to
down on
a stone,
hand, I waited patiently
the approach of morning.
I chose
my
resting-
place near something like a beaten path, in the
hope of some one passing who might be useful to me, but heard nothing during the night but the stork, the swan, and the pelican, many of
which came
to me, as if to
examine the
cause of so unusual an intrusion.
Remount-
ing at the
close
up
dawn of
day, I pursued the beaten
track in the direction of the mountain, which after
some time
I
began to ascend, and
in the
course of the day I reached a village, where,
Sill
to
JAMES CAMPBELL.
great joy, I once
my
151
more overtook the
caravan.
Although not altogether without apprehension, I was not aware at the time of the extent of the danger I had incurred.
That
had passed the be inhabited by a savage and
part of the mountain where I
night 1 found to
inhospitable race,
who
take their name, and
are said to have taken their descent
from the
bands which were led by the Count de Drus to the Crusades.
They
profess the Christian
religion according to the doctrines of the sect
of Maronites, but their depredations are not the less violent on that account, whenever they
Their name
find themselves to be strongest.
seem to give some probability to the descent which they claim and it is cerand
their religion
;
tain that a person called the
made some
figure at the siege of Acre.
caravan was just on the at the village,
direct
at
move when
The
I arrived
but the Mockra, who expressed
great uneasiness for
men
Count de Drus,
my
safety,
had
left
two
the village to inquire after me, and
me on my
road.
MEMOIRS OF
152
The
escape which I
illustrates
tion
made on
this occasion,
very strikingly that sort of interposi-
which shows the weakness and
On
ency of human prudence.
insuffici-
that very even-
ing several other stragglers from the caravan
were picked up by the Druses, and were never more heard of; so that, if I had not wandered the others, so as to be on the
farther than
wrong
have
side of the river, I should probably
shared their
fate.
For two days
after this adventure,
we
con-
tinued to ascend the mountain, by a winding
which brought us to a very considerable elevation, but from the want of instruments, I course,
had no means of measuring
it.
Here we
reach-
ed a plain of such extent as to require some three or four hours to traverse
it,
the summit
of the mountain being considerably to our
left.
This plain was covered with cyclamen, a flower
on which we
are accustomed
value, but here
we found
it
to
place
the most noisome
weed we had ever encountered, and odour was so preserve
my
some
to
me
the
insufferable, that I could scarcely
seat
on
my
saddle.
SIR
Far beneath
JAMES CAMPBELL. us,
on our
153
right, a large square
building was to be seen, apparently in perfect repair.
and
I
was told
it
was a Maronite convent,
like others in that country, it
was
built
without any doors, so as to be inaccessible to
The windows
the wandering Arabs.
are at a
by them their provisions are drawn up by means of a crane, which also enables them to leave the
great height from the ground, and
convent and return to
have occasion to do
A
so.
any time they small chapel was
if at
it,
pointed out at a distance, where prayers were said in quiet times for the convenience of the
Maronite inhabitants of the neighbourhood
But such
is
the savage character of the race,
do not always find themselves in safety from spoliation by the
that
it
is
said the priests
members of
their
own
flock.
Travellers are
sometimes received into the convent, and are believed to be well treated
;
but as the build-
big contains no accommodation for horses or other beasts of burthen, and as safe to leave
it
would not be
such property at the mercy of the
neighbouring population, the monks in these
MEMOIRS OF
154 fortified
convents are not often troubled with
visitors.
The
plain on
plentifully,
mand an The
was
which the cyclamen grew so
com-
at such a height as to
extensive view of the Mediterranean.
cold was piercing, and the
dew during
the
night so heavy as to penetrate our leathern boots
;
and even the bales of goods, so
packed, could not effectually exclude the camels and other cattle were so
come with the
To
sleep
as,
formerly a la
But
it.
much
fatigue of the ascent, that
impossible to proceed, and here liged to lodge
closely
over-
it
we were
was ob-
belle etoile.
was out of the question, and would
have been dangerous
we
if
could, so that
we
passed the night in smoking and conversation. I confess,
however, that I
poor horse as for myself.
we had
felt as
much
From
the time that
for
my
quitted the low ground, to the east of
the mountain, he had had nothing to eat
now bethought myself
;
and
I
of applying to the ca-
mel-drivers for a bolus of rice, which, in such situations,
they push
down
the throats of their
SIR camels,
JAMES CAMPBELL.
and found that
greatly refreshed
When
by
my
155
noble steed was
it.
the sun has risen about half an hour
on the mountain, the ground becomes perfectly so that, with the exdry, and even parched ;
ception of the great field of cyclamen,
seen no
symptom
we began
the
we had
of vegetation from the time
ascent.
The upper
part of
the mountain was, indeed, so utterly barren, that
we
could not find even
thistles,
kind of vegetable matter to serve
making our
coffee.
It
or any
as fuel in
was otherwise
in the
course of our descent, and as soon as the
was given
to halt, the
word
whole caravan might be
seen engaged with great earnestness in the preparation of that wholesome and invigorating
beverage, which I need not say
is
uniformly
used without either milk or sugar. It
may be
expected that I should here say
something of the celebrated cedars to which this
side
mountain has given a name, but on the of the mountain next the sea there is, I ^
believe,
no growing timber of any kind.
I
MEMOIRS OF
156
was
told,
however, by an intelligent
Jew who
travelled with the caravan, that in a former
journey which he had made by the landward
from Tripoli to Damascus, he had seen some remains of
side of the mountain, in travelling
these stately cedars, but from the
little
care
that was taken of them, he seemed to be appre-
hensive that in a very short time no trace of
them would be
As we journey,
left.
approached the conclusion of our
my
anxiety to find a vessel at Tripoli
going down the Mediterranean, increased to a very painful degree.
I hastened to the house
whom
of the English Consul, for
I
had
letters
from Aleppo, and expressed my anxiety to embark in the first vessel that might sail with the probability of carrying
me
of the British shore, but to
in the direction
my
unspeakable
disappointment, I found that there was not a vessel in the
down
harbour whose destination was
This feeling of
dis-
appointment was no doubt shared with
me
in
the Mediterranean.
common by many
but I will venture to
of
my
fellow-travellers,
say, that
few of them
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
had cause of uneasiness mine, or
felt, as I did,
at all analogous
#
Patience in this dilemma was
my
only re-
had much more opportunity or inclination to examine the town
so that I
medy,
than taste
neighbourhood, and observe the man-
its
of
ners
which was
a period
rapidly passing by. * *
and
inhabitants.
its
place of
some
The town
trade, although not
is
remained
in
it,
still
a
on so ex-
While
tensive a scale as in former times.
I
the peace of the inhabitants was
greatly disturbed
Pashas,
to
the paramount necessity
home within
of reaching
157
by the
who were
contests of
equally
two
unwelcome
rival
to the
people, because they were regarded as alike the
instruments of oppression. either party, in general
ended
when they met
engaged
in blows,
The in
in altercation,
retainers of
the
streets,
which often
and when such skirmishing
occurred, the inhabitants withdrew within then-
own
houses,
VOL.
II.
and shut up L 7
their shops,
which in
MEMOIRS OF
158
small towns are open to the street, and not as in cities, like
Aleppo, inclosed in extensive
The salesman
bazars.
legs across,
patiently with his
sits
and never opens
his
mouth
to
any
one until addressed by a purchaser. Soon after my arrival at Tripoli, I wanted
some
trifling
and seeing
matter connected with
and, saluting the cross-
it,
legged inhabitant, he desired
and to ascend two
others, in
my
hand,
which "
sit
down
walking about,
and
and then
tobacco,
me
to
advance
steps of a platform, on
he was elevated, and
in
saddle,
a shop containing such articles as I
wanted, I entered
Like
my
of
first
dish
a
all
I
which
beside him.
had
my
pipe
he offered rne
of coffee, both of
I accepted.
Effendi," said the saddler, when we had finished our coffee, " in what can I serve
Now,
you ?"
I
showed him
matter of so
trifling a
help regretting that so
it
was a
strap,
indeed a
nature that I could not
much
civility
had been
thrown away on so poor a customer, but afterwards I found that such was the universal practice of the place
;
for
having occasion to
SIR
make
JAMES CAMPBELL.
159
purchases of various kinds, I uniformly
experienced the same sort of treatment.
About
to return
after a long absence, I
make for
as I
home,
fondly imagined
had many purchases to
of shawls and other articles for presents
my
family and friends, and Tripoli was a
place where articles
were to be had
of Eastern manufacture
at rates comparatively cheap.
Although the English Consul, in whose house I lodged, was extremely civil to me, yet I could not bring myself to enjoy the flattering attentions I received even before the
town was
overtaken by that dreadful malady the plague.
As
soon as the
first
indications of
had
it
appeared, the alarm became general and intense
among the higher It
classes of
people in the place.
was otherwise with the lower
you would constantly hear exclaiming passed along the streets, the will of
God; and
little
or
as
Mash Alia !
they It
is
o far did they carry
these predestinarian notions, that
took
These
orders.
many
of
them
no precaution against the spread-
ing of the contagion.
After shutting up the house in which
we
MEMOIRS OF
160
lived, the first object of
troy, as
far as
our care was to desfurred animal
possible, every
about the premises, such as cats and dogs, and even rats and mice and other vermin, for it is generally believed that the contagion
may be
communicated even by a mouse running over the bed of an infected house and carrying it on
rough coat to the dwellings of the healthy through which it may pass in quest its
of food.
In towns like
Tripoli,
which are frequently
by the plague, precautions are taken the manner of constructing the houses for
visited
in
excluding, as far as possible, the danger
of
contagion, at the same time that arrangements are
made
without.
for holding
communication with those
In the wall of the court-yard, for
instance, a cistern is generally fixed, so as that
one end should project each way beyond the plane of the wall, and
when
filled
with water,
every other avenue being shut, the master of the house enjoys the assurance that nothing
can reach him this purifying
until
medium.
it
has
passed through
Large
stores of flour,
JAMKS CAMPBELL.
SIR
and other
161
least perishable articles, are
every house, ready against the
such a calamity
;
and on the
kept in
approach of
first
alarm, these
stores, if deficient, are so increased as to
plete the necessaries of
life.
com-
Fowls, meat, and
other articles, are received through the cistern,
and
letters
are passed through a grill in the
outer door of the court-yard, and immediately
on being received are carefully fumigated or soaked in vinegar, when they may be read without apprehension. After these precautions are taken, the inhabitants within doors gradually cease to dis-
cover any symptoms of alarm. Consul,
who was
Soon
after the
a person considerably advanced
had ascertained that the plague was actually in the town, and that we must necesfor a considerable sarily be locked up together in
life,
time,
he abated the rigorous custom of the
country, which imposes an absolute separation
of the sexes, and was so good as to present to his wife, a
young person
twelve years of age.
We
II.
M
more than
were accustomed to
go to her apartments to drink VOL.
little
me
coffee after din-
MEMOIRS OF
162
and found her pretty and well-behaved
ner,
but
it
would have been wonderful
a person,
who had
all
mured within four intelligence or
her
life
walls,
if so
;
young
perhaps been im-
had possessed much
knowledge of the world.
was yet in the month of February when the plague began, and we were kept by it in It
durance
till
the middle of summer.
seemed
It
end suddenly, and the day on which its ravages were arrested was St. John's day, and
to
long before that period it
would terminate
there
is
it
was predicted that
at the time it did
so that
;
probably some connection, as the non-
contagionists allege, between the appearance of
the plague and the state of the atmosphere. I can only say, that at the time of
its
disap-
pearance the Etesian wind blew regularly and strongly.
When
I first
walked out, I was attended by
the secretary of the Consul,
me
a
who
pointed out to
number of empty shops and houses
so little did the inhabitants in general care for this dreadful malady, that
;
but
seem to
we saw them
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
163
actually selling the old clothes of those
expired under
its
influence.
Many
who had
scenes of
misery were of course the result of this awful
Walking one evening in the Congarden, we heard, in the arbours of one ad-
visitation. sul's
joining, the plaintive accents of a female voice.
They were
those of a lady of rank bemoaning
herself to a friend on the loss of her
and three children, who had
all
husband
been carried off
by this indiscriminating scourge of humanity. She was left alone, she said, to deplore her loss ;
and she complained
in her
misery of the injus-
Providence in not permitting her to ac-
tice of
company
those with
whom
she had
bound up
the whole affections of her heart.
The
dissensions
of the rival Pashas
scarcely
interrupted by
plague.
One
the
r
of the
of them was in possession of the
castle;
and
nist, a
cannon shot had taken
la
ravages
w ere
in firing
on the troops of
his antago-
effect in the
cupo-
of the Consul's house, to the great alarm of
the family. the party
As
soon as
it
was made known to
who had committed
M
2
the aggression,
MEMOIRS OF
164
a deputation was sent to us with a long-winded excuse, which was accepted the it
more
readily, as
did not happen to do us any serious harm. Silk
is
the great staple of Tripoli and
neighbourhood
:
the country around
to produce the finest in the world. ly prized partial to
tains,
It
is
said
is
great-
by the Turks, who are known to be gorgeous attire; and this silk is said to
be remarkable for the receives,
it
its
facility
with which
and the permanence with which
it
it re-
the brightest colours.
At length
a small ship arrived in the harbour,
which had come from Candia, the ancient Crete,
and on sending ship,
for the Reis, or master of the
he informed
Cyprus.
me
that he
was bound
for
That, indeed, was a course far different
from that which
I
was
so desirous of pursuing
;
Cyprus were much more frequented than those on the continent, and as I was heartily sick of Tripoli, where I had suffer-
but
as the ports of
ed so much disappointment and anxiety, I resolved to avail myself of the opportunity which
was thus presented of leaving the place which had been so long my prison.
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
The harbour
of Tripoli
with rocks, that the
vessel,
is
incommoded
so
from
165
its
draught of
water, could not be brought near to the shore.
Thus, after I had completed the necessary
ar-
my departure, I found the greatin embarking my horse, which I
rangements for est difficulty
should not, probably, have been enabled to accomplish, but for the ingenuity and dexterity of
an English I
was
so
and with
sailor
much
who happened
to
be on board.
pleased with this man's address,
his general character, that I afterwards
engaged him as a servant, and had every reason to be contented with the fidelity and zeal with
which he continued to discharge
his domestic
duties.
He
was
not, indeed, very deeply read in the
mysteries of the Christian religion.
one day
as to the nature of his faith,
I asked
and his know-
ledge of Christ and Christianity; but, like others of his country
and
his profession,
much more on feeling and
him
many
he acted
sentiment, than from
knowledge or reflection. Among those classes of the Greek population with whom he associated, he found a great deal of suppleness and
MEMOIRS OF
166
ning, which placed
them
in very unfavourable
contrast with the general character of the for honesty
and
After we had
Turks
integrity.
put to
fairly
sea, I
was rather ap-
prehensive as to the fate of my horse, for
whom
him away, and who would probably have proved unmanageable had there was no place to stow
we been
overtaken by foul weather.
expected, indeed, to see
him
I scarcely
safe ashore; but, fa-
voured by summer breezes, we made a fortunate passage to Cyprus, and
my
fears
were removed
by the dexterity of the English sailor. My first object at Cyprus was to inquire for a vessel going
down
the Mediterranean, but
again disappointment awaited me. plied to the Reis of the vessel
me
from
when he
I
then ap-
which had brought
Tripoli, as to his farther destination,
would depend upon the loading he should get at Cyprus, but that it would probably be for Rhodes. Thus I was once more said it
down, with what patience I might, await the issue of his tardy movements and
obliged to to
;
in the
due
sit
mean time
to
such of
I paid the visits
my
which were
old friends as were within
SIR
my
JAMES CAMPBELL.
At
reach.
length I was assured by the
Reis that he was ready for to sail for
16?
sea,
Rhodes with the
and that he was wind.
first fair
I
then purchased half a dozen jars of ortolans,
and for
as
many
my
casks of Cyprus wine, as presents
friends at
home
;
and
as
no other vessel
had arrived with a more desirable destination, once more embarked with
was soon under
When we
as I
sail,
my former
I
Reis, and
imagined, for Rhodes.
had stretched along the
coast of
Anatolia for a considerable distance, I observed that, a land-breeze
having sprung up, the Reis
seemed to bear away and
as there I
to suit his
my
for the Island of
Candia
;
should have no chance of a vessel
purpose,
I
insisted
agreement and carrying
on
his fulfilling
me to Rhodes. But
in all probability I should not
have succeeded
with him, if the British power, by the possession of Malta, had not at that period been para-
mount
in the Mediterranean.
assume a very serious aspect,
was obliged to and to threaten
I
to denounce his vessel to the English cruizers,
by whom, I told him, she would sooner or later After some altercation he be made a prize.
MEMOIRS OF
168
gave way, and bore up for Rhodes
at length
we might
where, that
;
not part on bad terms, I
succeeded in saving him from the payment of
which he wished to avoid, from the
certain dues
influence which I happened to possess with the British authorities at that time in possession of
the island.
At Rhodes
I
found the same
difficulty as at
other places in finding a vessel going
down
the
Mediterranean, as at this season of the year they
were
all
upward bound it
Thinking I
to receive their cargoes.
probable that by leaving Rhodes
might abandon the best chance of reaching
home,
I resolved to
submit with patience to the
cruel state of suspence in
At
first,
as is
which
the convent in Rhodes.
It is
;
at
of these estab-
company, and
true, that
are civilly
they are expected to
accommodations with becoming but no demand is made on the vi-
for their
liberality
One
went to lodge
Strangers are always welcome,
are permitted to see
pay
I
if
generally to be found in every con-
is
siderable town.
treated.
was placed.
customary in those countries,
you mean to be comfortable,
lishments
I
SIR
who make
sitors,
monks
may
JAMES CAMPBELL.
their
as
169
such a remuneration to the circumstances or
disposition
dictate.
These convents are protected by the Turks for their own convenience. As compared with those parts of Asia which I had an opportunity
of visiting,
vanced in
Turkey may be regarded
as far ad-
but, so far as
my obser-
civilization;
vation extends, the as a better
Arab
is
to be considered
and more trustworthy man than the ?:^r:oo:r
Turk.
After I had made some stay in the convent,
and seeing no hope of immediate thought
some
it
little
relief,
I
better to take a house for myself at
distance from the town.
try-houses in the neighbourhood of
The counRhodes
are
usually built on the same general plan.
They
are strong, massy, square buildings, with
narrow
entrances so contrived as to present a variety of obstacles to a forcible entry.
corners there
mand
is
always a
little
At one
of the
tower to com-
a view of the country, and enable the in-
habitants to observe every object that approaches.
Every thing necessary
for the convenience
MEMOIRS OF
170
of the inhabitants
included within the four
is
walls of the building
so that, in the strictest
;
sense of the term, a rural mansion at
what would be within
itself,
Houses of
called in
Rhodes
is
a house
Edinburgh
or a self-contained house. this
description are occupied
by
the Jewish and Greek inhabitants of the island,
from the constant apprehension under which they live of insult and aggression from their
Such attacks would not
Turkish neighbours.
be openly sanctioned by the public authorities, but the degraded
casts are treated, nevertheless,
with unyielding hauteur and contumely,
if
not
with actual violence and oppression, by their
more fortunate countrymen. Greek, mounted on his ass mitted to ride on horseback
them
so
mounted were
way, they must until the
Turk
all
to
When a Jew or a for
he
is
not per-
nay, if a dozen of
meet a Turk
in the
dismount and stand
still
thinks proper to pass.
In consequence of degradation, the
this
more
and
similar badges of
respectable and wealthy
of the Greek and Jewish inhabitants are ac-
customed to apply to the ambassadors of the
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
European powers
great
for
some nominal ap-
pointment in connection with
Such
are
appointments
Turks
as
among
others an
conferring
171
the
recognized
certain
embassy.
by the and
privileges,
immunity from such marks of
degradation as I have just alluded
to.
In con-
formity with the manners of the country, a present, of
more
or less value,
to the ambassador
is
always given
on receiving the appoint-
ment, and some are so considerable as to add very materially to the emoluments not merely of the envoy himself, but of several officers attached to his suite.
The country around Rhodes abounds with game. dale,
the
It is beautifully diversified
shade and water. last,
islands.
are
rare
hill
and
These, and particularly
advantages
At Rhodes
by
in
there are no
the Greek
game
laws;
and, for myself at least, I can say, that I
met
with no obstruction in the enjoyments of the sports of the field.
The
chief objects of pur-
suit are the hare, the partridge,
This
last is a
but of the
and the jelinote.
bird not unlike our
size of a partridge.
I
moor game,
had not seen
MEMOIRS OF
172
them elsewhere, excepting hood of Spa, the island
land
is
in
in
the neighbour-
The
Germany.
partridge of
twice as large as ours in
Eng-
plumage is beautiful, his legs red, of and he is as bold as he is handsome. In
his
;
course,
the convent at Rhodes I had a tame one in
room, so tame that the windows were
left
my
open,
and he would frequently go out and return to
The weather being hot, I with my chamber window open me.
generally slept ;
ing he would sometimes hop on disturb me,
when
away and go
to sleep again.
On
I
morn-
in the
my
bed and
would gently push him
one occasion I thought him more trouble-
some than
and on looking about
usual,
me
I
perceived that he had got a companion in the
room with him, a wild tracted
by the
call
sequence of the partridge
is
of
one,
my
facility
old inmate.
tamed, they have
to an indolent sportsman. call,
upon
by the sportsman.
at-
In con-
with which the cock
shooting at Rhodes which
trained to
who had been
is
manner of
very agreeable
The tame
a signal
He is
a
given
bird to
is
him
put into a cage and
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR carried
where the mastic berry
a thicket
to
The sportsman
abounds.
173
conceals himself be-
hind a bush adjoining to an opening in the thicket and gives the signal.
In a favourable
I
have seen so
twenty and thirty round the cage. mark down and shoot the most distant,
many
You
situation,
as
and with good management you may kill the whole covey, or rather collection of coveys gathered by the
call,
for as soon as the jerk is
repeated they are sure to return. of training partridge
mode
called the dressing of the cock
is
I
:
This
have not heard of
its
being at-
tempted in England, but I do not see should not succeed.
From
why
it
such excursions
I
never failed to comp- home loaded with game. I
began to shoot early in the morning, and
adapting myself to the manners of the country, I
had
my
pipe,
carried out
my
carpet,
with me.
and
my
coffee-pot
After taking some
re-
freshment, I went to sleep during the heat of
the day, and in the afternoon renewed sport before returning home.
my
MEMOIRS OF
174
CHAPTER Departure from Rhodes. of the vessel,
Old Rhodes.
of
Empire.
carried into
The
John
Jervis.
Count 'de Lauriston.
Alexander Don.
Madame
lasted for
of
Sassen.
life,
A
Keith.
for France.
The Russian
The Arabian Horse.
Companions
Mr. Hamilton.
-Sail
Police.
Prince of Conde.
Imperial courtesy.
mode
Female
Lord
Loss of a vessel.
Galley Slaves.
Armenian Residents.
Offer of Buonaparte.
MY
Boarded and
corvette.
Answer of
Hulan, Desaix.
Ambassador.
Boyle.
Turkish Tombs.
Bowstring.
Treatment of Prisoners.
tilly.
Grandees
Perform quarantine. Provider Ludicrous and affecting incident.
Port of Marseilles. Sir
of
St. John,
Marseilles.
of the Lazaretto. Generals
Of
Ruins and Paintings.
Meet an armed
Monuments.
Tardy progress
Malaga.
Knights of Rhodes.
Malta. the
Sail for
VII.
Visit to
Chan-
in captivity.
Mr. Fitzgerald.
Sir
Lord
general custom.
as before described,
some time, when
at length, to
had
my
great contentment, a Ragusine vessel arrived in
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
175
whose destination was Malaga, I went immeor some other port in Spain. the harbour,
and concluded a bargain for the passage of myself, my horse, and two servants, the one a Greek, named George, the diately to the town,
other
my
Christian
John Smith the
friend,
sailor.
John Smith had more than those national peculiarities
trymen
his
due share of
by which
his coun-
are supposed to be distinguished
these were
;
to
superadded the bluntness of the
and the gravity of the Turk. In his hatred of Greek cunning, he had acquired a sort of veneration for the Turkish character, sailor
and he rejoiced
at the instance
which occurred
during our stay at Rhodes of comparing the
two
races to the disadvantage of the Greeks.
Immediately on our asked
my
leave to
arrival at
Rhodes, he
go to Candia, to claim
some wages which were due to him by a Turkish master-mariner, his former Reis. sailed in a
Greek
boat,
and was charged ex-
orbitantly for his passage at
He
;
but on
his arrival
Candia he received what was due to him,
MEMOIRS OF
176
amounting to about twenty pounds, and was hospitably
entertained
by the
Reis, until he
found a Saccolava, or large Turkish sloop, to He embarked in carry him back to Rhodes. it,
and arrived
tunity
When
in safety long before the oppor-
occurred for
my
leaving the
island.
he went down to the port on the follow-
ing morning to pay for his passage and provisions, the people absolutely refused to take
any of his money. That he might not be outdone in civility, he invited the whole of the crew to a repast on
A
shore.
number of
them came and partook of what was
offered to
them, with the exception of wine and
spirits,
which were presented but declined.
The only
luxuries in which they indulged
were sweetmeats and iced water
;
and although
the guests were sober, the company, I believe,
were each of them happy in
his
own way though ;
4
I
have no doubt
it
must have been a
ficiently ludicrous to
the
feast,
who
sight suf-
have seen the master of
did not deny himself a large pro-
portion of what he had prepared for his guests,
assuming that grave and solemn deportment
in
SIR his cups,
JAMES CAMPBELL.
177
which he had habitually borrowed from
who were
the guests
so
much
the objects of his
admiration.
The forded
tardy movements of the Ragusine af-
me ample
leisure, after I
passage, to review the parts of
The
had secured
my
town of Rhodes, many
which are well worthy of observation.
place
is
of considerable extent, and
of the houses are remarkably well built.
many The
street of the Knights, in particular, deserves a traveller's attention
;
and
I
am bound to
in justice to the Turks, that they
observe,
have not been
so barbarous as to destroy, because they could
not value, the arms and crosses by which the houses of the Knights of Rhodes are distinguished, consecrated, and adorned.
The French
discovered a very different spirit
in taking possession of Malta.
gle exception of the is
Church of
With St.
the sin-
John, which
truly a magnificent structure, they had the
barbarity to destroy every relic of the Order for
which that island has been so famous. arms of the Knights are
still
The
preserved, indeed,
on the marble pavement of the Church of VOL,
II.
N
St.
MEMOIRS OF
178
John, most curiously inlaid in a beautiful and ingenious kind of mosaic.
every
marked by some inscripwith the name and arms of the grand-
tower and bulwark tion,
At Rhodes,
is
master, or individual knight
were erected.
Towards the
by
whom
land, the
they
town
is
very strongly fortified in the ancient manner, the whole being surrounded
by a deep
ditch,
which, with the ramparts, has been cut out of rock.
The
immense works
are in
the
solid
greater part
of these
excellent preservation,
be made of very considerable strength, at a moderate expense. Such
and the place could
is
still
the dryness of the atmosphere, that the marks
of the chisel can
still
be distinctly seen on the
inclined plane of the glacis as fresh and sharp as
when
was originally formed. The town itself is built in form of a it
crescent,
the two horns or extremities of which inclosethe two harbours.
These might both be well adapted to the accommodation of ships of con-
siderable burden,
if
the Turks were only to
enact and enforce a regulation,
merchantmen who come
to
by which the them should be
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
179
compelled to deposit their ballast at some convenient station on the outside.
As
it
is,
the
harbours are in progress of being gradually filled
up; and
the practice continues, they
if
must by and by be unfitted
for
any useful
purpose.
Immediately beyond the
in
fortifications,
every direction towards the country, there
nothing to be seen
formed with great in the form of an or vacuum.
but graves.
care, of bricks
arch,
and cement,
is
distinguished
by
with a turban carved on
sort of headstone,
and frequently some symbol
whom
it is
six miles
it,
,of the profession
intended to com-
memorate, but without any name or
About
are
but without any vault
Each grave
of the individual
They
is
date.
from the town, a collection
of ruins are to be seen, distinguished by the
name
of Old Rhodes.
These remains are
situ-
ated on a considerable eminence; and although
much tions
fallen into decay, there are still substruc-
and underground work of great extent,
in a tolerable state of preservation.
The
walls
of these subterraneous buildings are covered
N
2
MEMOIRS OF
180 with
plaster,
Among
and painted with
Scripture-pieces.
others I could recognize the history of
Joseph, and the colours in general were re-
markably fresh and rian
enough to
fix
vivid.
I
am
not antiqua-
the date of these pictures,
or of the buildings on which they are preserved;
but
as the
island for
suppose
it
Turks have been
in possession of the
upwards of three hundred
be conceded that these works
will
must be of
years, I
still
They are period when
higher antiquity.
doubtless to be ascribed to the
the Knights enjoyed that wealth and distinction
which gave them so high a place in European The style, in general, seemed to me to history. be
Italian.
I
remember
in particular the face
of a beautiful woman, which in form and expression appeared to
The mantle and seemed
to be strictly European.
drapery, as well as the face,
as fresh as if the
executed.
At
work had been newly
a greater distance
about thirty miles still
me
off,
from Rhodes,
the ruins of Lindo are
to be seen.
It is generally
known
that
Rhodes has long
been a place of exile for the grandees of the
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
empire,
many
of
are sent here to
end
Their burying places are ranged
their days.
along the beach. las,
whom
181
They
consist of small cupo-
generally about twenty feet high, support-
ed by
The
pillars.
interior
is
open on
all sides,
and they are not distinguished by names or It seldom happens that a prisoner of dates. state,
who
is
Government,
sent into exile is
by the Turkish
suffered to die a natural death.
The Capize Bach
is
generally sent to
him with
the bowstring within a period which varies, I believe,
from one year to
five.
When the mes-
senger arrives with the mandate for the death
of the exile, he applies submission, kisses
Another to the
The
it,
to his head, in token of
it
and
yields to his fate.
peculiarity remains to be noticed as
mode
of interment
right of burial
the Turks.
held to be paramount to
is
the right of property
among
;
so that
when
a person
dies in a Turkish' town, his relations carry
him
and deposit his remains in any part of your property or mine they may think into the country,
fit
to select.
The
proprietor of the ground
is
not entitled to object to the proceeding, nor
MEMOIRS OF
182
even to interrupt the friends and relations of the deceased in their future access to the tomb.
Thus
it
happens that
solitary
be seen scattered over the in
situations
best
Around
effect.
monuments
are to
and generally
fields,
calculated for picturesque
these
monuments groups of
mourners are often to be seen of an afternoon, assembled to weep over their departed friends,
sometimes even it
would be
at the distance of years.
inconsistent with the Turkish cha-
racter if they departed their staid
come
But
on such occasions from
and methodical
to weep, they
come
habits.
also
When
they
with their usual
comforts of coffee and tobacco.
Of
Rhodes and Zante
that
of
all
ing,
the Greek islands, I
may
say in general
are the
most beautiful
those that I had an opportunity of visit-
and Zante has the additional advantage of
being protected by a range of mountains from the westerly winds, which in that quarter are the most prevalent.
The
ship in which I had taken
and which had taken
my
passage,
in a cargo of cotton at
Cyprus to be carried to the Spanish coast of the
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
183
Mediterranean, was at length ready for
Our voyage continued
sea.
to be prosperous until
we
approached the Gulf of Lyons, when we descried an armed corvette, which from the first
we suspected to be French, and it was not long in confirming our fears by boarding us and taking
This occurred at a
possession of the vessel.
late
hour in the evening, and on the following afternoon we were carried into Marseilles. Thus all hopes of reaching red,
and
tended
it
home were
seemed
indefinitely defer-
some
as if
me to obstruct the
fatality
progress of
had
at-
my return
from the period when I first received the intelligence which made that return so necessary.
The
first
order which reached us on our arri.
was that
val at Marseilles,
all
on board of the
corvette, as well as of the prize, should
quarantine for three months.
Our
go into bills
of
health happened to be foul, and the crew of
the corvette having boarded us without inquiry,
had
and disregarded the instructions they
received,
to
port, while they
make
us follow them into
had admitted of promiscuous
intercourse between the
two
ships' crew,
they
MEMOIRS OF
184
were necessarily involved in the danger of contagion, and ordered to observe the laws of quarantine for the same period with ourselves. I
need scarcely add, that the period of confinement might have been indefinitely prolonged
by the occurrence of a death among the crew towards the close of the time which was
first
prescribed to us. I
have known of an instance where a
ship's
company, in consequence of successive deaths, had thus been kept in durance for more than a year.
Nor, in so far as
observe, can I see
how
I
have been able to
the hardship of such a
lengthened confinement can reasonably be complained of, if it be true, as is universally .believed in those
countries
where the malady
most frequently appears, that
it is
communi-
cated exclusively, at least with a certainty
most
by contact or contagion. The least, had some reason to be cau-
invariable,
Marseillois, at tious,
from the visitation they met with about
the beginning of the last century, lost
al-
not
less
than 120,000
souls.
when they
On
that la-
mentable occasion, the clergy were most con-
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
185
spicuous for their benevolence and self-devotion,
many
of them receiving the subtle virus of the
malady when offices
for
in the performance of the last sad
These
the sick and the dying.
praiseworthy exertions are ful tradition in the place,
of the period
is
still
matter of grate-
and the old Bishop
spoken of with the deepest ve-
neration, as having personally led on his clergy in this perilous undertaking, in
which a great
proportion of them perished, while he himself outlived the general desolation to receive the
acknowledgments of the
The
survivors.
quarantine ground at Marseilles
is
of
great extent, including a space of at least three miles in circumference, and the regulations
which
it
is
by
governed, are so contrived as to
afford every possible facility for a free
commu-
nication between those in confinement
and the
world at
large.
ground, a bureau
At
the gate of the quarantine
is
established for the purpose
of facilitating parole or oral intercourse be-
tween the probationers within, and the stranThis bureau is divided longitugers without. dinally
by two rows of strong wooden
bars,
MEMOIRS OF
186
arranged in parallel floor to the ceiling,
lines,
reaching from the
and placed
at such a dis-
tance as to leave a vacant space of eight feet
between them, across which there
is
no passage.
Strangers are admitted into the gallery next
the town
;
and on that next the lazaretto the
patients have access, but always under the in-
spection of the guardians of health, siness it is to see that
whose bu-
no actual contact takes
place between the patients under different periods of probation.
Attended by one of these guardians, you are permitted to take exercise within the quarantine grounds,
and even to interchange
visits
with your fellow-prisoners, subject always to the inspection of the attendants of the lazaretto,
whose duty it I have even
is
to regulate such intercourse.
with persons whose periods of confinement were longer, sat at the dinner-table
as well as shorter,
than
my own
;
but
if
contact
had taken place between persons limited to unequal terms, that of the shortest would have been equalized with the longest.
The
provider of the lazaretto
is
a person
who
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
187
never leaves the grounds, and keeps a sort of
cookshop on a very extensive
scale,
and
fur-
nishes provisions to the inmates as they require
them.
During the period of my confinement,
there was a great deal of retto,
and
it
was
company
in the laza-
usual, for the sake of a better
dinner, that three or four should mess together.
At
the
my
associates
commencement
of the period, I had for
an English Captain, just return-
ed from India, and a French General, Hulan, afterwards Governor of Paris, with two other
French
officers.
General Hulan had a horse
with him, which he brought from Algiers, but
he readily admitted that in almost every point to
The monotony
his
my
Barb was
inferior
Arabian.
of our quarantine
life
was
some time interrupted by an incident which was at once ridiculous and tragical. In a fit
for
of heedless folly, a
young man, who had come
passenger in a ship unprovided with clean
bills
of health, having wearied of his confinement, contrived to
make
it
from the qua-
by clambering over the wall by was surrounded. The whole posse of
rantine grounds
which
his escape
MEMOIRS OF
188
and inspectors were immediately on foot to discover his retreat; as, from their extreme
police
vigilance,
no event can happen in the
without
their
with
lazaretto
becoming speedily acquainted The young man was traced to a house
it.
of more than doubtful character, and the premises were immediately surrounded, every individual in
it,
guests and inmates, visitors and
being carried indiscriminately to the
visited,
lazaretto.
The
laws of quarantine are
and
known
to be
was thought necessary on this occasion to make an example of the young man, severe,
it
who had committed sanitary regulations.
form of
trial,
so daring a breach of the
I
am
not aware of the
or whether any form
is
pursued
on such occasions, where the
fact of infringe-
ment
as that of break-
is
so
open to observation
ing out of confinement.
The
result,
however,
was made known by proclamation to the inmates of the lazaretto, who were all required to
attend and witness the execution of the
He
was brought out and exposed to the general view, under the windows of the
culprit.
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
principal building,
where a
priest attended
He
to receive his confession.
189
him
was then con-
veyed to a boat, which was towed by another containing a party of soldiers, a
from the
but so
shore,
as still to
little
way
off
be within view
of the spectators.
On
a signal from the land, the soldiers rose,
presented and
fired, after
taining the dead I
am no
which the boat con-
body was immediately sunk.
advocate, in general, for sanguinary i
punishments, but
if
measures like those of
quarantine be necessary to prevent the spread
of contagious diseases, the regulations for enforcing sition
of penal sanctions.
indeed,
ground 1
am
them must be guarded by the impocannot
always
Capital punishment,
be defended on the
either of necessity or expediency,
and
convinced that the most hardened of-
fenders
would
in general be
more
effectually
deterred from the commission of crime
by hard
labour and solitary confinement, than by the transitory terrors of a public execution.
The
ludicrous part of the transaction was to
be found in the strange discoveries which were
MEMOIRS OF
190
made by the good people of habits of
added
They
Marseilles, as to the
some of their townsmen, who were thus
to the list of probationers in the lazaretto. cut, in truth, a
very awkward figure in the
unexpected predicament into which they had
brought themselves.
They were
permitted, of
course, the usual indulgence of conversing with their friends
from the town, in the bureau
at
the entrance of the grounds, but were constrained to suffer a confinement of three
with the best grace they could. that any of the
new inmates had
months
I did not hear
contributed to
the spread of the plague.
After General Hulan and some of associates
had been
my
relieved, a party of
earlier
Jews and
>
Italian
singers
joining the in
little
arrived at the lazaretto,
mess
I
had formed, contributed
some degree to enable
less
and
me
to pass the time
irksomely.
Although not exactly
in the chronological or-
der of events, I may here mention a circumstance
which
is
recalled
been speaking.
by
that of
which
I
have now
General Desaix, on his return
to France from Egypt, was, with a
number of
,
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
191
other prisoners, brought into Leghorn, at that
time in possession of the English.
were sadly affected with ophthalmia,
soldiers
many
The French
of
them
in a state of darkness
shocking disease, so that
it
from that
was necessary to
send the whole of them to perform quarantine.
Desaix sent a message to Lord Keith, to remonstrate against the order which included him, a General
was thus
officer,
inflicted
on
in the restraint
his troops.
Perhaps the
message had reached Lord Keith in a of ill-humour, or he thought
it
which
moment
necessary to
evince the rooted dislike which he felt for the
by which France had His Lordship's answer so long been governed. was, that he regretted the fortune of war should revolutionary doctrines
have subjected a person of General Desaix's merit to so great a hardship, but the laws of quarantine, he said, were sacred, and he understood,
from the motto of
liberty
and equality
had assumed, that they had abandoned those distinctions of rank on which
the French
which the General's claims to exemption were founded.
MEMOIRS OF
192
The
port of Marseilles
well suited for the
is
accommodation of ships of moderate burden, being perfectly land-locked, and sufficiently capacious; but from its draught of water it is not capable of admitting a man-of-war.
ed to be in the Alarm, with
when
Sir
I happen-
John
Jervis,
she ran ashore in the Gulf of Lyons,
about six miles from the port.
A large hole
was struck out in her bottom, but she did not immediately go
down, from a circumstance
which was thought to be somewhat remarkable. The leak occurred immediately under the breadroom, which being
filled
ed the bread
hinder the ship from
as to
as fast as it otherwise
abled us to
with water, so softenfilling
would have done, and en-
make the port of Marseilles, although
not without
much
difficulty,
and with the
loss
of our masts, which, from the state of the weather, it
On
had become necessary
reaching the port,
derstood on shore that
we
to cut away.
caused
we were
it
to be un-
desirous of hav-
ing an anchor carried out to seaward of the ship.
In compliance with our request, a boat was sent from the shore with twenty-five galley-slaves on
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
who were promised
board,
193
their liberty if they
succeeded in accomplishing the object of their
Unhappily they did not succeed boat was swamped within our view ; the mission.
of the sea and the weather was such as to relief impossible,
The
lost.
they are
and every
still
make
on board was
life
no longer sent to sea, but employed as the means of public
;
and the practice of compelling a
culprit to labour for the public
humane
good is surely and I have not
hang him doubt that it is even more
the least
state
galleys are
punishment
quite as
the
;
as to
;
effectual for
the great object of punishment, the prevention
The
of crime. severe
;
some
and some It
is
labour of a galley-slave
are
for the
condemned
is
very
for terms of years,
whole period of
life.
true, that, like other places of confine-
ment, they are likely enough to harden the
of-
and put him in the way of acquiring a knowledge and dexterity in crime but these fender,
;
are evils
which
from every
are in
some degree inseparable
species of restraint, although they
may no doubt be alleviated by those distinctions which, are now observed in well-conducted priVOL, IL
o
MEMOIRS OF
194 sons,
between the tried and untried, the old and
the young offender.
Yet,
it
must be admitted,
that every such arrangement can only
amount
to a modification of the evil, and that the
most
guarded and selected intercourse between criminal prisoners
invariably attended with
is
some
degree of moral contamination.
Soon
after the
Alarm was got
into the har-
bour of Marseilles, she sunk in such a situation
came over her upper deck.
as that the water
Sir
John
Jervis
was known to be a
strict disci-
but his discipline was applied with
plinarian,
equal severity to himself as to those under his
command. for the
A large Swedish ship was
accommodation of the
until the
officers
engaged
and crew,
Alarm could be taken up and
repair-
and the Admiral was perhaps the only individual who never went ashore until his object ed,
When
was accomplished.
men
as well as the officers
to go into the
town
;
and
not on duty, the
had occasional leave I should
be sorry to
join in the idea which has gone abroad regard-
ing him, that he was more severe in his pline than the
good of the
disci*.
service required.
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
The world knows
195
that he was a good seaman
and a gallant officer, and these are qualities which might well atone for some little excess in
what he doubtless conceived to be an impe-
rative duty.
The Port-major
of Marseilles discovered the
and assiduity in rendering his asthe Admiral in raising and refitting
greatest zeal sistance to
the ship it
and
;
as his
impossible to offer
sation, Sir
John
rank was such as to make
him
a pecuniary
Jervis wrote
home
miralty, detailing the services
major had rendered to ving that
it
compen-
to the
Ad-
which the Port-
his Majesty's ship, obser-
would be necessary
to send
him
a
piece of plate, which, he said, should be of the
Some
value of 5001. the
objection was
made
amount of the remuneration, which,
to
to a
person of Sir John's decided character, was not
The
was immediately own expense, and the Admiralty
very agreeable. ordered at his
was informed that the service.
It
it
plate
was done
for the
was well known that
was not a rich man, and
I
good of
Sir
John
am happy to add,
that,
on reconsidering the matter, the Admiralty did o 2
MEMOIRS OF
196
not permit him to suffer by his generosity.
These events occurred on one of the occasions
when
was on
I
my way
my
regiment at
I remained at Marseilles until the
Minorca.
Alarm was
refitted,
Admiral on board. expressed rolled,
to join
my
when
when
On
surprise
Sir
I returned with the
getting out to sea, I
how desperately
the ship
John made me observe
that
it
from the smallness of her masts, which
arose
could not be had of the necessary size in the
dock-yard at Marseilles.
An
order had arrived for the transmission of
the English prisoners to Paris, on their being released from the Lazaretto. set out,
we
attended in the usual manner by an
escort of gens-d'armes.
my
Accordingly
But
I
must not
carry
reader from this scene of mercantile enter-
without offering
prise
my
tribute
of respect
and acknowledgment to those Amerian residents in the place, from whom, at the time of our departure, sally
we
received, I
may
say, univer-
the most liberal offers of service.
lower
class
To
the
of prisoners, their attentions con-
SIR sisted of real
and
JAMES CAMPBELL.
and
197
substantial benefits in
money
clothes.
Our
from the French
travelling allowance
Government was
less
than moderate
;
we were
of course deprived of our arms, and I had on this occasion the mortification to lose the
which
I
had received from the Ionian Presi-
dency, and which to its
me had
intrinsic worth.
class
a value far
beyond
Prisoners of the lowest
received the same allowance with their
superiors
;
but
sufficient for
the pittance
as
mere
the habits of gentlemen. in fact, to defray our
to travel very slow,
treated strictly
was
scarcely
existence, the hardship
of course greater to those
On
sword
who had
We were
own
charges,
was
acquired
compelled,
were made
and upon the whole were
and not
well.
our arrival at Paris,
we were
placed under
the surveillance of that abominable system of
espionage for which the government of Bonaparte was so tions
much
distinguished.
The
restric-
imposed upon us were, that we should
not pass the barriers of Paris, that
we
should
MEMOIRS OF
198
show ourselves every morning to the Police, and that such of us as were thought worthy of so
much
attention should receive one of their
an inmate in his house.
as
agents
Even
in
England it is now generally known that these agents were often women possessing the requisites
of
virtue,
and
a
decent
exterior,
consummate
unscrupulous
address.
could
I
mention many individuals well known in the world
who were
thus trammelled,
numerous detenus who were seized through the French peace of 1802. prescribed
by the
territories
among the, in passing
during the short
Acquiescence in the system police was,
no doubt,
in
some
degree compensated by a relaxation of other restraints,
and that
in particular
necessary for the prisoners to
which made
show themselves
every morning at the nearest police
At
the time of
my
I
office.
arrival at Paris, I
found
and the intelligence soon afterwards received from Scot-
myself in very bad health
which
it
land, through the
;
medium
of the American
ambassador,
who was kind enough
and receive
letters for
me
under
to forward
his envelope,
,
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
did not tend either to improve
199
my
health, or
to relieve the miseries of an imprisonment of
At
undefined duration.
length
I
became
so
was impossible for me to attend the bureau of the police, and the miserable alterthat
ill,
it
native was presented to
me
their female agents, or of I
going to the
hospital.
chose the former, and I have lived to lament
that I did so. ,
of receiving one of
was presented
It
be
may
to me,
it is
said, that as a choice
not for
me
to exclaim
who
of a government
against the principles
thus virtually sanctioned a system of immorality.
As an argumentum ad hominum,
I
bow
to
the justice of the criticism, but not as a defence
of the government by
whom
the alternative
was proposed. The female branch of the system of espionage had probably its origin in the superintendence which
is
taken, and the tax in
the form of license which is exacted from
women
and from making them the instruments of taxation, the step was easy of a certain character
to
make them The
it
;
the instruments of the police.
gradual exhaustion of
necessary
for
me
my
finances
made
to think of selling
my
MEMOIRS OF
200 horse
a measure to
;
reconciled,
when
I
which
became more
of a purchase.
easily
on the probability
reflected
of his being taken from
mony
I
me
without the cere-
I heard that the Russian
ambassador, Count Markoff, was likely to
waited on the ambassador, and told
him.
I
him
that I
had
thought might as
I
buy
a horse to dispose of,
which I
suit his Imperial master, and,
placed a large price
upon him,
it
was
only in a person of the highest that I could
hope to find a purchaser.
Count Markoff's
answer was, that he could not buy him on the instant,
but that he would write home for
instructions.
In the mean time I received
offers for the
horse from several French officers of rank, but
the sums they proposed were far from being
adequate to the most moderate idea of the animal's value.
Soon afterwards
I
met
in society
with General the Count de Lauriston, one of Bonaparte's Aids-de-camp,
whom
before as a countryman, and
who
I
had known
claimed kin-
dred with me, as being mutually related to the family of Argyle.
The
subject of the Arabian
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
was one of our
him
201
topics of conversation.
I told
that I should be under the necessity of
sell-
ing the horse, and mentioned the sums which
had been offered
him by some of his brother
for
officers.
whom
In a few days a gentleman
I did not
know waited upon me, and said that he was authorized to make a purchase of the horse, if we could agree upon terms.
had been offered
mentioned what
I
me, and
to
said, at
the same
time, that if he were in England, I should have
put 1500/. upon him situation in
which
;
I
but in consequence of the found myself at the mo-
When
ment, I was ready to conclude for 600/.
the trifling
some expression of impatience sums which had been previously
offered, the
gentleman observed, that the person
I specified with
who
sent
him
there could probably pay for the
horse according to his value
red for the
name
that
it
This disclosure afforded
liberty
;
means
was
me
the
Empe-
a ray of hope,
might obtain my personal and the idea was at least natural to a
this
by
I inqui-
of his constituent, he answer-
ed with some hesitation that ror.
and when
;
I
MEMOIRS OF
02
my situation. As soon as the thought flashed across my mind, I proposed to the
person in
had
gentleman to
offer the horse as a present to the
He
Emperor.
expressed no opinion as to the
propriety of this
proposal, but
would communicate and give
me
it in
said
that
he
the proper quarter,
He
an answer in a day or two.
returned within the time appointed, and said
was impossible for the Emperor to accept of any thing from a prisoner, but that he would give me my price. The horse was ac-
that
it
cordingly sent to the Imperial stables, and with
the fanfaronade which Bonaparte affected in his actions,
of
six,
he sent
me 1200
louis d'ors in place
a reinforcement to the
finances,
which
at the
all
weak
moment was
seasonable, as at this period I
state of
my
particularly
had very
little
prospect of being speedily able to recruit them
from home. I store
resolved, therefore, to
with the greatest care
fact, I
husband ;
my
little
and, in point of
contrived to subsist upon it for a consider-
able portion of the period of
Soon
my
imprisonment.
after the period of the first restoration,
JAMES CAMPBELL.
Sill
I
was invited to
illustrious
perhaps the most
which any nation
The Prince
boast.
early
visit a family,
life.
in
of Conde I
On my
between himself and
As
de Bourbon.
I
knew
Europe can had known in
at Chantilly, the
arrival
Prince was pleased to place me, dinner,
203
when we
his son, the
sat to
Duke
that old soldiers en-
joyed those topics of conversation which had a reference to their early exploits, I took an
opportunity of leading to the services of the
Prince in the Seven Years' War, which, without
might fairly be spoken of as highly honourable to the arms of France. The Prince any
flattery,
of Cond6 had
commanded
at
the battle of
Johannesberg against the Hereditary Prince of Brunswick, and after an obstinate combat had gained the victory.
I could not
been present at the
battle,
recollected that I
from
be said to have
although
it
may be
was sent by General Moston
his quarters,
certain the result,
about five miles
and was of some
off,
to as-
service to
the Hereditary Prince and his Aid-de-camp, Sir
Henry
Clinton,
carrying
who had both been wounded,
them from
the
field.
in
MEMOIRS OF
204
The
guest of a
man
was necessary that I should suit sation to his humour. I therefore it
that
we saw
it
was
take us in flank. I
aught it
hit the
teran
"
know
my
conver-
said to
him,
his Highness's intention to
This might be very true for
to the contrary
humour
commander
Cond,
like the Prince of
at all events,
;
of the moment, as the ve-
rejoined with great eagerness,
Exactly, that was just
my
intention."
On
Duke de Bourbon, who saw, perhaps, more clearly how the matter stood, tapped me this the
familiarly on the arm, saying
have lived too long at court."
"
Ah,
Sir,
you
If not exactly
the truth, what I had said was what the French
perhaps liked better;
it
was
at once civilly
meant,
and had the advantage of a sufficient degree of the vraisemblance, and we naturally do not wish to offend a
man who
gives us good shoot-
ing and an excellent dinner.
The
reader
may
recollect the opportunity
which I enjoyed, when
vernment of the Ionian forty prisoners
in charge of the go-
Islands, of relieving
some
from the French army from the
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
205
which they were destined on board two Salletine rovers, which had entered the bay
captivity to
of Zante in quest of address which they parture,
I
wood and
made
to
water.
me on
The
their de-
found the means of transmitting
through a channel which brought
it
under the
notice of the Emperor, and to that circumstance I
am
disposed to ascribe the attentions which I
afterwards received from
M. Fouch6,
lebrated Minister of Police. as to give
me
He
the ce-
was so good
leave to shoot over his estate of
which was situated about twenty miles from Paris, and the only condition anPonte
Carre*,
nexed to the
liberty was, that I should present
myself daily before the authorities of the neighbouring village. At this village I had made
my arrangements for eating and sleeping during my stay in the vicinity; but on the first evening of my arrival, after a day of successful sport, I was attended
by one of the
officers
of the
Duke's household, and entreated to enter the chateau, where I found supper prepared for me,
and was assured that
special orders
had been
MEMOIRS OF
206
me
received for offering
were due to a guest of
the attentions which
his Grace,
during
my
stay in the country. I did not think myself called on to decline
the offices of hospitality which had thus been
tendered in a manner so or ostentation.
I
little
savouring of state
remained at Ponte Carr6 for
about six weeks, and on
my
departure I ac-
knowledged the attentions I had received, in a manner which I believe to be peculiarly French. I
had the
feet of a brace of partridges burnished
and gilded, and sent the birds to the Duchess, with
my compliments
My
and thanks.
chief acquaintances
were the
late Sir
Sir
Don had
always obtained access
to his pecuniary resources,
had
all
lady.
Mr. Fitzgerald, and
the son of the Earl of Glasgow.
Alexander
the person
the detenus,
Alexander Don, Mr. Hamil-
ton, an Irish gentleman,
Lord Boyle,
among
who was
and in consequence,
sent to
him by the
police,
the manners and accomplishments of a
With me
it
was otherwise,
known, from the simple
style in
as it
which I
that such an inmate was not suited to
was
lived,
my
fi-
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
207
me
professed
to be able to discharge the duties of
cookmaid
nances
;
the person
in the family.
who came
to
She was by birth a German
;
and having been in England with a German family, she had the advantage of speaking the language.
Her name was
originally Haitage;
but when she came to me, she passed by the
name of Sassen. rather say,
it
It
would be
would be
difficult,
I should
to reconcile
impossible,
an English reader to those modes of
life,
which
in France are practised so generally, as to have
ceased to be remarkable, and far less to be a subject of reproach.
To me
it
would be matter
for the deepest mortification, if
it
could be sup-
posed that I should attempt to excuse, or to palliate,
tioned
the immorality which seems to be sanc-
by such general
usage.
1 claim only
some degree of mitigation of the censure which the severer morals of England would impose on such an arrangement, by pleading the
cir-
cumstances by which I was surrounded, and the disadvantages, approaching to necessity, in
which I was placed.
MEMOIRS OF
208
CHAPTER
VIII.
Annoyances of arbitrary imprisonment. Mode of life as & detenu. Embarrassments and privations. An eclaircissement.
A
liberal
Lieutenant of Police.
Attempt to escape. AnecResidence at Amsterdam.
Unpleasant adventures. Draw a dotes of a tailor. an old
Am
turf-seller.
bill
on
my
Generosity of
Mynheer
seriously indisposed.
of Amsterdam.
Tolard.
Lower
French.
Transported into France.
classes
Son.
Enmity
Fortress of
to the
Ham.
Narrow escape. A Jew physician. Method of beguiling the time. Count Hamerstaen.
Restrictions
upon
us.
English and Prussian
Campbell.
officers.
Death of
Succeed to the estate and
Sir
Alexander
title.
IN the course of our imprisonment, we had on many occasions to feel the capricious hand of despotism, and are
known
many
of the hardships which
only in their severity, under an
bitrary government.
Imperial arms
If,
met with
ar-
on any occasion, the a serious reverse,
it
SIR
was sure straint
JAMES CAMPBELL.
to be the precursor of
re-
Sometimes a
sent to distant parts of
them were
the country, where they were
kept in close
and a great number were stationVerdun, which, from its situation in the
confinement
ed
some new
on the English prisoners.
portion of
209
at
;
midst of swamps and marshes,
is
considered so
unfavourable to health, that the troops are regularly withdrawn from
tumn.
My particular situation
irksome, arising from circumstances, and
the fate of
my
Rumours at
spring and au-
was
sufficiently
my immediate
still
pecuniary
more from the
uncertainty in which I
me
it in
still
state of
remained, as to
property in Scotland.
like those
which had
first
Aleppo, continued to reach
alarmed
me
in
my
confinement, but from the extreme difficulty
of maintaining an epistolary intercourse with
home, or indeed a direct intercourse of any kind with friends at a distance from Paris, I
was
left altogether in
the dark as to the real
state of matters.
When my VOL.
II.
pecuniary resources P
were once
210
MEMOIRS OF
more exhausted,
I
had
on more than
recourse,
one occasion, to the kindness of
my
friend Sir
Alexander Don, who tendered
me
his assist-
ance in a manner which I cannot sufficiently
commend.
But the
difficulties
which were interposed by
the jealous government of Bonaparte against all
communication
with
the other detenus of
of
state
my
destitution
own.
Sassen,
It
my not
England,
had
left
acquaintance in a less
extreme than
was otherwise with the
woman
who, being in the pay of the Govern-
ment, was never suffered to want what was necessary to support her in her tion in society.
She continued
humble to
haunt
sta-
me
had anything to give, and when supplies were from time to time ex-
as long as I
my
hausted, office
at
she performed the functions of her
some distance from
The sums which ander
Don
my
dwelling.
I received from Sir Alex-
were of small account to a man
of his resources, which were such as to enable
him
to spend not less than 70,000/. during
SIR his
JAMES CAMPBELL.
forced residence at Paris.
ways ready
to anticipate
my
Although alwants, it was im-
with the feelings which I have ever cherished, to continue to live systematically on possible,
another's bounty. I resolved, therefore, to decline his farther assistance,
and to submit to the consequences
of getting into debt in a foreign country.
It
was soon obvious what these consequences were to be. I was thrown into prison, and remained there for about six weeks in a state approach-
ing to starvation,
when
thought of requesting
I
an interview with the Lieutenant of Police.
He
came to me, and
I laid before
him
a state of
my present affairs, specifying all the debts which I
owed, and the small sum which would bet^ne-
cessary to relieve them.
I also explained to
him
the peculiar hardship which I was suffering by the want of a free communication with home,
and the uncertainty in which patrimonial property.
it left
me as
to
my
This gentleman was so
good as to advance me which enabled me to pay sist for some time longer. p 2
upon my bill, debts, and to sub-
200/.
my
MEMOIRS OF
By
this
time the hardships I had suffered
made me almost whatever
at
desperate,
hazard, to
and
I determined,
attempt an
escape.
Notwithstanding the manner in which the wo-
man
Sassen had been introduced into
my house,
she contrived, after long habits of intercourse, to
my confidence, as to induce me to make her privy to my intention. She entered
creep so far into
into the idea with apparent ardour
;
she got
me
a false passport, and suggested that I should
endeavour to reach the coast of East Frieze,
which was her native country, and where, she said,
a fishing-boat
carry
me
could easily be hired to
to the island of Heligoland, at that
time in possession of the Englisji, and only a few leagues distant from the main land.
She professed to be intimately acquainted with this part of the coast, and from a readiness of belief, which others will excuse more readily than I do, I allowed myself to be persuaded of the
woman's
sincerity,
accompany
me
and agreed that she should
to the coast.
The funds which were
me
necessary for enabling
to carry the measure into effect were ad-
Sill
JAMES CAMPBELL.
vanced upon
my
able banker
in
termined
213
by M. Descot, a respectParis, and a staunch and de-
royalist,
bill,
whose
the pro-
hostility to
ceedings of Bonaparte, enlisted his feelings on
the side of the English prisoners.
We passed the barrier in safety, and : that
my
able at
I found
was equally availthe other stations where it was sub-
fictitious passport
all
jected to inspection.
At
length
we
reached a
place called Caroline-Zeal, on the shores of OstFrieze, not far from the point which
arranged as best suited to
my
had been
purpose.
We
arrived at this part of the coast in the after-
noon, and after I engaged a boatman to carry
me
to Heligoland, the
some of her
me
part,
friends in the place.
me
of seeing
She returned
without exciting any suspicion on
my
and renewed the protestations of her anxShe expressed, indeed, wish to accompany me, but suffered
iety for
some
Sassen left
purpose, as she pretended,
for the
to
woman
my
success.
herself to be persuaded that such an arrange-
ment was not
advisable at the
fixed that I should
moment.
embark on board the
It
was
fishing-
MEMOIRS OF
214
boat at an early hour in the morning, but before the hour arrived
I
found myself
In such circumstances, satellites
arrested.
was usual
it
for the
of the Imperial government to rob the
money, and take possession of his papers, and I was not an exception to the general rule. I was conducted to Amsterdam, prisoner of his
and placed in a room siderably below the
in the
common
level
of the tide.
gaol, con-
The
apartment was thirteen feet long, by ten feet In one corner was what is called a boxwide.
bed with a
little
straw in
it,
but without any
bedding or bedclothes. The prison allowance was a basin of bad soup, so nauseous to me that I could very seldom persuade myself to taste it
a loaf of
;
penny
a-day.
brown
bread, and twopence half-
With
the
money I bought
of milk and some tobacco, and thus
I
contrived
to subsist for thirteen months, while the
individuals
my
who had
a pint
worthy
contrived the spoliation of
property were indulging in the fruits of
their success.
The woman
Sassen followed
sterdam, but where, or
how
had no means of knowing.
me
to
Am-
she lived there, I
While she
re-
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
215
mained there she gave birth to a daughter, who was called from me Jemima, and the poor girl I have never ceased to consider It
paternal regard. justice, to visit
as entitled to
my
would, indeed, be sad in-
on her head the offences of her
mother.
In the prison at Amsterdam,
enjoyed the
I
poor alternative of associating with a number of
Dutch
skippers,
been engaged in
facilitating the escape of
will readily be believed that
deed
it
I did not prefer the latter.
quaintances at Amsterdam, and that if
I
Eng-
of solitary confinement, and
lish prisoners, or it
and other persons, who had
had, they
was rarely I had no
it is
in-
ac-
very certain
would not have been ad-
mitted to me, except in the presence of a couple
And
of gens-tfarmes.
yet, after
say that I was ever seriously state of privation
been more I
had I
I
in this
have often
external appearance,
it.
not casuist enough to account for the
have
theless.
all
I cannot
unhappy
restraint.
when, to
far less cause for
am
fact I
so,
and
all,
It
now
may
had absorbed
so
stated,
but
be, that
much
of
it
is
a fact, never-
mere physical wants
my
attention, as to
MEMOIRS OF
216
me no
leave
ing on
when
that ness
my
leisure or opportunity for reflect-
mental grievances.
remember,
the winter approached, the damp-
and the cold of
my
sub-aqueous dungeon
made me very uncomfortable. tailor
I
might be sent
I desired that a
By and by
for.
a decent-
looking person appeared, introduced by two gens-d'armes,
who remained
while he took
my
the dungeon
in
measure for a great
While he was doing this, I told him, as bound to do, that I could not pay him
coat.
I
was
for it r
and that I did not know when I should be able to
He
pay him.
make
answered,
the coat and send
he had worked
for
I
told
of
as
;
my
would
adding, that
countrymen,
by any of that what I
lost a stiver
him, of course,
wanted was a coat of the sufficient to
me
to
many
and that he had never them.
it
that he
plainest materials,
keep out the cold by night
as well
by day. In due time the coat was sent me.
brought by the been,
tailor's wife,
it
fitted
;
was
attended, as he had
by two gens-d'armes. She made
of seeing that
It
a pretence
and, in the act of trying
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
on, deposited something in
it
my
217
hand, which
afterwards proved to be thirty florins, equal to
about sixty shillings of our money.
Under
existing circumstances this supply was invaluable.
regret that
I
names of
must now content myself with
course, allow
my
them
their generosity,
on
my
breast,
this
imperfect
did not, of
I
gratitude.
the
and that I
this kind-hearted couple,
expression of
down
cannot set
I
to be pecuniary sufferers
which has
left
which, while
by
an impression
memory
lasts,
will
never be effaced. In the course of
my
(|
imprisonment at
Am-
sterdam, I was compelled, under various priva-
draw a
tions, to
bill
for 1001.
on
my
eldest son,
which was the only sum I ever received on count of
my
estate at Craigforth.
idea of drawing a bill on
my
my
son
attention, I did not reflect
When
ac-
the
first
attracted
on the
difficulty
of negotiating the instrument, or even of com-
VOL,
II
P 5
MEMOIRS OF
218
municating with a person who might be disposed to do so
;
and the agent whose
gaged on the occasion,
if
services I en-
not very well fitted to
transact a matter of business,
was
at least
very
unlikely to incur any suspicion from the most jealous of the constituted authorities.
cold weather, an old
During the supplied
me
bringing
me more
To
fuel,
and
insisted
than I was able to pay
on
for.
the extent of her more limited means, she
had treated berality as I
with turf for
woman had
me
my
made use of
with as
much
kindness and
worthy friend the
li-
Her
tailor.
to carry a letter to a banker,
which, in the regular course of his trade, he
forwarded to Edinburgh for acceptance, and after a long interval, as I
the
money
the old
for
it,
have
said, received
and, through the
woman, paid
it
medium
over to me.
The
vices of this kind-hearted dealer in turf not, however,
of
ser-
were
performed without some personal
SIR
The
JAMES CAMPBELL.
219
and the money were carried in the lining of her stays, and if she had been detected, she would undoubtedly have hazard.
letters
been sent to the Forbetter-house, analogous to the tread-mill,
is
as
something>
called at
Am-
sterdam.
After I had been sometime in prison, I be-
came
seriously
indisposed,
from change of food, and want of cise.
I inquired if I could
probably,
arising, air
and exer-
have medical
assist-
was told that the regulations of the prison did not permit the facilities which would ance, but
thus be obtained for holding communication
with the world at large. vered from an
Happily I soon reco-
which, though of short
illness,
duration, was sufficiently severe.
On
another occasion,
for a lawyer,
I sent
on some pretence
and from the person who came to
me, a Mynheer Tolard, I also received civilities,
particularly
in
the loan
many
of books,
which were a great comfort to me. M. Tolard, in showing me those marks of attention, was
no doubt actuated by those ordinary feelings which one man may be supposed to entertain
MEMOIRS OF towards another in
and
tailor
his wife,
who
dividual
distress.
With
and the no
trusted
me
for
the worthy
worthy inturf, and risk-
less
my
ed her liberty to serve me, the case was some-
what
different.
inhabitants of
The lower
classes
among
Amsterdam were more
the
hostile to
the French than those above them.
A
Dutchman
is
not easily roused, but
justly incensed,
it
is
and
it is
difficult to
when
appease him,
well known, that in general there was
not wanting good cause for resentment in those countries which had the misfortune to be over-
run by the troops of Napoleon. at
When
Amsterdam, there were numerous
I
was
instances
of French soldiers being killed in the streets, in
revenge for the wrongs they had committed on the inhabitants.
were
In proportion as the French
disliked, the people conceived
an opposite
and I was probably asrather from a sense of mutual injury and
feeling for the English, sisted
a corresponding hatred of our sors,
common
oppres-
than from any peculiar ground of commise-
ration for the circumstances in
which
I
happened
Sill
to be placed.
JAMES CAMPBELL. It will
be recollected that the
French never trusted the natives of any country which they had brought under subjection.
The system sed in
of their government
two words
pionage and force. character,
may be
expres-
the police and the army, es-
The Dutch never
but sulky and
fierce,
lost their
remained
as if
they had not become the slaves of the French.
Although
no written communication, and
was permitted to enter the walls of the prison, it was
still less
any newspaper or public
print,
impossible to hinder some vague idea of the great events which were then passing in
from reaching the inmost
recesses of
Europe
my damp
and unwholesome dungeon. At one time, there was a great bustle in the prison, taking down names, and other proceedings, which led
me
hope or suspect that the French arms had
to re-
ceived some serious check.
The
firmed by the insults and
usage which were
ill
was con-
idea
soon afterwards heaped upon the prisoners, and at length it
others
was announced that
were to be transported
I
and some
into
France.
MEMOIRS OF
222
What
had previously been mere surmise and
suspicion,
was now rapidly merging into
confi-
dence and certainty.
At
length the day of our departure was fixed.
We were
put into waggons, and escorted by a
strong body of gens-d'armes, for whose atten-
dance
we were
charged at the rate of ten
shil-
Those who had any money were obliged to pay, but mine had been extorted by a more summary process, and the re-
lings each per diem.
mittance I had received from Scotland was by this
The
time exhausted.
ney was,
I think, in
the
period of this jour-
autumn of 1813.
Our
ordinary rate of travelling was from twenty to
We
twenty -five miles a day.
were lodged
every night in the public prisons. lay through Brussels,
This fortress was built by It is situated in a morass,
able.
At
;
it
first,
exercise than I
route
and our destination we
found to be the Castle of Ham,
unhealthy
Our
in Picardy.
Edward
and
is
the Third.
considered very
was certainly most uncomfortwe were allowed more liberty for had enjoyed
at
Amsterdam.
On
the top of the walls, or ramparts, which were
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
about forty feet high, there was room for walking,
and
also in
In
the internal court-yard.
one or other of these places we were for some time permitted to take exercise for an hour every day, but
when
the rainy season arrived,
the court-yard, from the nature of the ground
on which the
fortress
was
built,
became ankle
An
deep of mud, and of course impracticable.
order was issued also for restricting the walk on
the ramparts within such narrow limits as might
perhaps have suited the habits of some of fellow-prisoners at
my
Amsterdam, but could not
be very agreeable to any one disposed to lounge
beyond the limits of a fisherman's quarter-deck. I had not heard of this new order, and on the next occasion of
my
walking on the ramparts, I
naturally passed the limited point to take
my
usual round.
The
sentinel
soldier,
on duty was
and with the
but a young
zeal of a devoted admirer
of Bonaparte, presented his piece to
when
fire at
me
;
the unintentional trespass I had com-
mitted, and the hasty action of the sentinel,
were
happily observed by the
commanding
MEMOIRS OF officer
ment to
of the fortress, to
be making
his
at the
me
latter part of
men
my
and long afterwards
I
had taken up
I think, one of
During the
imprisonment in
many
him
inci-
old soldier, of a
1 ever saw.
1 received a great
visiting
This
acquainted with the com-
manding officer, who was an very humane disposition, and, the handsomest
mo-
rounds over the space
which the prohibition applied.
dent brought .
who chanced
in the
this fortress,
civilities
from him,
kept up the intimacy, by
town of Ham, where he
his residence, after
seded in his government
being super-
by the return of
Louis the Eighteenth, and having married a
widow lady of
WOOL
the place,
with a fortune of
a-year.
The numerous
prisoners at that time in the
were allotted to different compartments of the building, and no intercourse or comfortress
munication of any kind was permitted between i
one compartment and another.
The
better to
prevent any promiscuous intercourse, the sentinels
had orders
to see that
no conversation
took place in the general airing ground, which
SIR
was
accessible
JAMES CAMPBELL. stated
at
periods
225 to
all
the
prisoners.
In the division to which 1 belonged, there
happened to be a Jew physician, who played well at the only game which can afford lasting
amusement without any sordid consideration, and which served at once to compose the mind
when over
excited,
and to furnish a salutary
degree of excitement
guor and
ennui.
I
when
sinking into lan-
need not add, that our
frequent parties at chess were to both of us a great source of relief and relaxation.
were
also in the
There
same division a Hanoverian
nobleman, Count Hamerstaen, and a general in
officer
the French service,
sent here for
some
who had been
offence against the Govern-
In the other parts of the fortress there
ment.
was great variety of company about thirty Prussian general and other officers, seventeen ;
English, most of
ber of
and a class,
them
military men, a
num-
Dutch gentlemen, Jews of all countries, great collection of Frenchmen of every
who had
given offence to the Imperial
Government. VOL.
II.
Q
MEMOIRS OF It
was not until
in this prison, that I
my
had been some time
after I
heard of the death of
first
cousin-german, Sir Alexander Campbell, of
Ardkinglas, to
who was
whom
I was
heir-at-law,
and
had always understood, by the terms of the deed of entail which had been executed by Sir James Campbell, my prohibited, as I
great-grandfather, from
Sir
succession to this estate. bell
had by
this
was not
it
month of December 1813
until the
that I received
my
remittance from a rental which had long
amounted
The
to 3000/. a year.
first
use which I
was to make
happy
as
as could
fortable dinner
many
of
little
made
my
be admitted to
me by
a com-
was enabled to
Ham
there
From
this
name and
pro-
difficulty in providing.
more company.
money
fellow-prisoners
town of
period of assuming the family perty, I
of the
on Christmas-day, which from
the neighbourhood of the
was
Alexander Camp-
time been more than three
years in his grave, but
first
the order of
altering
live better
and
to see
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
CHAPTER
227
IX.
imprisonment at the Castle of Ham. ImAtrocities committed Station at Verdun. perial system.
Bad
effects of
upon
Order from the Emperor. Louis XVIII. Arrive at Paris.
Zeithein.
Conspiracy and law-suit.
genius.
from Elba.
The hundred days.
Colonel Fabvier.
Maubreul. ment.
The Chevalier
Battle of Waterloo.
Paris occupied
Duke
of the mishes.
by the
Military Anecdotes.
relief.
Count de
d'Assize.
Released from confineDiscreet measures
Allies.
Ham,
unwholesome and
proportion of the
and
evil
Skir-
personally, I enjoyed tolerable
health in the castle of
extreme,
Seasonable
The French army. The Cossacks.
of Wellington.
ALTHOUGH,
An
Return of Bonaparte Hurried into the Con-
Privations and discomforts.
ciergerie.
a most
General
prisoners.
to others
the sick
list
of mortality for
bill
winter must have presented a
Q
was
fatal residence.
number on
the
it
2
list
The was the
of deaths
MEMOIRS OF
228
which could hardly be equalled
in a well con-
The
ducted hospital for typhus.
death of his
prisoners seemed to be brought about
by the Imperial head of the French Government on method and system, and he could hardly have chosen more
efficient
instruments for accom-
plishing his object, than a station like Verdun,
or a prison like the castle of It
Ham.
was not always, however, to these slow and
imperfect methods that the minions of des-
potism resorted for those
who
stood in the
or caprice.
murders
Due
accelerating
way
the fate of
of their convenience
I need not allude to such notorious
as those
d'Enghien
;
of Captain Wright, or the I fear that
many
such have
been committed in secret and have never reach-
ed the public ear. at an early hour
by
In the prison at Amsterdam, in the
morning, I was awoke
a noise in the adjoining apartment;
it
seemed
to begin with a violent scuffle, the noise of
which was screams
:
drowned
in
the most
these were followed
by an
frightful interval of
quiet which proved to be the stillness of death.
Between the upper part of the door of
my
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
229
dungeon and the stone which formed the lintel, there was a narrow crevice or opening which
me
enabled this I
to see into the passage.
Through
soon afterwards saw a dead body carried
forth.
I
quiries
on the
thought
prudent to make no
it
and of course
subject,
in-
I never
heard more of the transaction.
At length
a great confusion arose in the for-
tress.
An
peror,
importing
the
castle
order had arrived from the that
prisoners
To
in
the in-
the prisoners in general
was extremely welcome, not
this intelligence
merely to those
the
be marched into
should
terior of France.
all
Em-
who were
sick or convalescent,
from the assurance that no change could be for the worse, but to all the inmates, from the prevalent idea that the order for our removal iiad
onlv been occasioned by some unfavourable >
>
change
in the aspect of the
At Ham we were
Emperor's
once more put into wag-
gons, and conducted in the usual
Amiens, where we found a better well as a
more
cleanly
than that which
affairs.
manner
to
situation, as
and commodious prison
we had
left.
The
journey,
ME MO HIS OF
230
however, having been effected in open waggons, at a
very inclement season of the year, was a
very serious
affair to
those
who were
ing under fever and sickness, or
accustomed to similar
been
Amiens the rumours of Allies
became daily
telligible,
tinct
labour-
who had
not
At
hardships.
the advance of the
more
frequent and in-
until at length they
and palpable form, by the
assumed a
arrival of
who now commands
dis-
General
the
Russian
forces in the East, at the head of the
advanced
Geismar,
guard of the Allied army. The prison doors were immediately thrown open, our miseries
seemed to be
at
an end, and passports were
given us to go where
Next day General
we
pleased.
Zeithein, the
the Allied cavalry, arrived. in the
commander of
I had
Seven Years' War, when
his
known him father, the
celebrated Zeithein, and the favourite of Fre-
derick the Great, was troops.
Amiens
commander of the
light
being a situation not un-
favourable to health, I remained there for some
time to recruit, and to take the benefit of the fresh
air,
after
my long confinement
;
and during
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
had the pleasure of dining almost
stay I
my
every day with
While
old friend
my
Count Zeithein.
was yet lingering in the neigh-
I
bourhood of
my
prison, it
was announced that
Louis XVIII. was to pass through Amiens
on
his
way
and
to Paris,
I resolved to join the
royal cortege.
On my still
haunted by
my
woman who had
ed
the Imperial police. functions
;
the
found
evil genius,
myself
the wretch-
been imposed on
me by
Finding that her
official
me and my
re-
fortunes for the
she had even the hardihood to address
herself to
had by
I
were terminated, she appeared
solved to cling to
future
Paris
at
arrival
of
several
this
my
countrymen,
who
time arrived in crowds to enjoy
long-forbidden
novelties
of
Paris,
pretended that she had claims upon
would amount
in
and
me which
Scotland to a marriage, in
consequence of the manner in which she had lived with me, under the circumstances already
explained.
VOL.
ii.
Q
4
MEMOIRS OF
232
To
silence the
spread
rumours which had thus been
several
among
of
my
I
friends,
was
advised to apply to the constituted authorities
of the restored Government
was compelled
;
and
at length
to adopt this course, in conse-
quence of the violent inroads which the repeatedly
made upon me
had taken up to
whom
I
I
my
at the hotel
residence.
The
woman
where
I
magistrate
applied was not slow in laying his
hands upon
He
her.
investigated the nature
of her claims, and pronounced a judgment declaratory of their total
want of foundation.
In consequence of the breach of the peace she
had committed, he was about to send her prison,
when
I
interposed for her protection,
and gave her a sum of money enable her to return to her live in
either
to
own
sufficient
country, and
comfort in her original station.
from a perverse
disposition, or
advice, she applied the rconey I
to a very different purpose. diately to Scotland.
to
But
from bad
had given her
She went imme-
JAMES CAMPBELL.
Sill
At
she was received with some degree
first
of caution, and as
fallen,
the
after I
had
by contracting a marriage with a
young lady of nexions,
was not until
friends supposed, into a net of
my
difficulties,
it
that
woman
they to
and con-
respectable family
of encouraging
thought
institute
proceedings against
me, for having a marriage declared in conformity with the loose notions on that subject
which are
law of
said to be
Scotland.
It
recognized by the
was thought that the
terrors of a law-suit, which, if favourable to
me
in the
consequences of a charge of bigamy,
might
the plaintiff, might have involved
deter
me from
But here
I
returning to Scotland. find that I
am
permitting
my
the chronological order feelings to anticipate
of events, and since I
may
the
I
have
as well add, that the
woman upon me was
VOL. n.
Q 5
said
so
much,
attempt to fasten signally defeated,
MEMOIRS OF
234
but I was induced to accept a fixed income of
WOOL
place
a year from
Scotch estates in
of 4000/. leaving the remainder in the
hands of
my
eldest son.
Like many prise
my
others,
I
was taken
sur-
by
on Bonaparte's return from Elba, and
found myself once more a terval of liberty
prisoner.
The
in-
which preceded the hundred
days was one continued scene of bustling recognition and leave-taking. all
Europe had been drawn
centre of attraction strangers
who were
;
It
to
seemed one
as if
common
and among the numerous thus congregated in Paris,
from mere motives of
not a few
curiosity,
were to be seen who had been liberated from the Imperial dungeons, after long periods of durance,
and
appeared
amidst
gaiety and confusion, like so **
revisiting the glimpses of the
During
the
many
general spectres,
moon."
this period I lived in the
Boulevard.
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
I did
not interest myself
tics,
nor
if I
much
235
in general poli-
had, could I have formed any
correct idea as to the probable duration of the
Royal government, which at that time kept the French people in the same state of ignorance of passing events as
At
length
we were
its
Imperial predecessor.
surprised one
the well-known cry of Vive
morning by
TEmpereur !
On
inquiring into the cause of the change, for on the previous evening Vive
I'
Hoi! had been vo-
ciferated with equal fervour,
the
King had
we were
told that
with a number of his
left Paris
adherents.
For some time there was no those
who had been
released
on the advance of the without hopes that
from confinement
Allies,
we
notice taken of
and we were not
should be allowed to
escape unnoticed, but in this idea
we were
The King's
departure
speedily disappointed.
was followed by a season of profound tranquillity.
had previously reached us could not be depended on, it seemed now as If the rumours which
if
the fountains of intelligence were hermetically
closed.
Not
a whisper
was heard of the
Duke
'
MEMOIRS OF
236
of Wellington's situation, or of the
movements
by common
consent, the
of the Allies ; and, as subject
if
which agitated every
was the
breast,
only one which did not find utterance in words.
In this deceitful state of quiet, I was visited
one morning, long before
it
was
and hurried
emissaries of the Imperial police,
away
the prison
to
called
where I was detained a the hundred days.
At we
Conciergerie,
close prisoner
it
during
was
this period it
impression, and I believe
the prisoners, that
the
by the
light,
my
was general among
could not expect our
liberation until Bonaparte should be able, after
fighting
some
new nego-
battles, to enter into
tiations for peace.
The happy
termination of
was an event which scarcely entered into our contemplation, and which, at all events, his career
we
did not presume to expect.
strange that
come was
my
may seem
return to prison should have
so unexpectedly
upon me, but
in fact it
so completely a matter of surprise, that I
had not made the
least provision
contingency, and from the rest,
It
any opportunity
uch a
for
moment
of
for preparation
my
ar-
was ut-
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
me.
terly denied
was not even permitted
I
me my
to take with
237
ordinary personal comforts,
nor even any clothes besides those in which I
was allowed very hurriedly to dress myself
in
the presence of the gens-d'armes.
On
our arrival at the Conciergerie, I was
placed in
an apartment which contained six
men under
sentence of death, and but for the
humanity of these wretched convicts, I must have slept on the naked floor of the dungeon. t
They had spare
their
own
beds so arranged as to
me a palliasse on which
covering but
I slept without
my ordinary wearing apparel,
some time afterwards, when
I
any
until
was removed into
a separate district of the prison, distinct from that of
my
first
reception,
which was appro-
priated to criminals and convicts. this
of
Although
charge produced a considerable alleviation
my
immediate discomforts,
I
was not per-
mitted to see or send for any one, or to obtain
any intelligence from, without.
Among my
fellow- prisoners, however, there
were several individuals whose acquaintance I was very well pleased to have an opportunity
MEMOIRS OF
238
Of
of making.
these
I
shall
name
Colonel Fabvier, whose
is
only mention so intimately
connected with the liberation of Greece
and
;
a very worthy man, as well as a staunch royalist,
the
The
Chevalier d'Assize.
produced
his
offence
which
imprisonment was, that he had
paid for the ropes which had been used in
taking
down
the statue of Napoleon from the
celebrated brazen placed,
column on which
and that he had either
operation,
it
had been
assisted at the
or at least countenanced
it
by
his
presence.
Like many others of the old nobility, the Count had served in the armies of Bonaparte, but he was a great personal friend of the Countess de Choiseul,
who took
wearing the white ribbon Napoleon's
abdication.
He
at
the lead in
the period of
had
previously
by the duel which he fought with the notorious Count de Maubreul, in consequence of the inducements which were
distinguished himself
held out to him by that extraordinany character to assassinate
Napoleon
at Fontainbleau.
The
strange inconsistencies in Maubreul's proceed-
SIR ings, can only
JAMES CAMPBELL.
239
be accounted for by a remarkable
combination of roguery and insanity.
When
the Allies entered Paris, in 1814, he
traversed the Boulevards, exclaiming against the
usurper with extreme violence
and soon
;
after-
wards, on the pretence of being charged with a mission to recover the diamonds of the crown
from the Bonaparte family, he stopped the riages of the Princess of
car-
Wirtemberg, the wife
of Jerome,~on their route to Fontainbleau, and seized a
number of
chests containing articles
of value, but the property was ordered by the
Royal government to be restored to the Princess. For this offence he was sent to prison during the hundred days, but obtained his liberation
by publishing a
libellous
Royal government.
Memoir
against the
Since that period he has
not been idle his personal attacks on, the Prince ;
de Talleyrand, and his repeated escapes from prison and attempts at suicide, have been the subject
of frequent
comment
prints all over Europe.
ance with the Count to
trial
As
in
to
d' Assize,
the
my
public
acquaint-
he was brought
during the hvindred days for the pre-
MEMOIRS OF
240
He
tended attempt to assassinate Napoleon.
was
defended
by
the
Con ten r, who undoubtedly in saving that of his client
The
and
own
life
his friend.
Waterloo was fought, and the had been for some days in Paris, be-
it
any ray of intelligence had penetrated the
wall of the Conciergerie.
rumour lies
risked his
battle of
news of fore
advocate
celebrated
arose
among
At
length a sort of
the prisoners that the Al-
were advancing on Paris
;
but
what foundation
ginated, or on
it
how
it ori-
reposed, I
had not an opportunity of ascertaining.
It
was, moreover, understood to be dangerous to discover any unreasonable curiosity on such a subject, lest
ward
in
we
should be excluded from the
which
other's society,
the
prisoners
enjoyed
each
and condemned to the rigours
of solitary confinement.
The next berty,
indication of our approaching
was the sound of distant
afterwards the
shrill
like the sweetest soners. first
The
firing,
and soon
notes of the bagpipe
music to the
li-
came
ears of the pri-
gate nearest the Conciergerie was
entered by the 91st Highlanders, which
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
was commanded
and now
my
at the
241
moment by my
Alexander
oldest surviving son,
He
James, the major of the regiment.
my
immediately to to the prison,
and
bracing him.
On
men
banker,
second,
went
who conducted him
had the happiness of emthe arrival of the two gentleI
at the prison, the principal concierge, or
gaoler, a-year,
whose place was said to be worth 3,000/. requested them to walk into his own
apartments, saying that he would send for me.
After I had had some
little
conversation with
Major Callander, he got up and begged that I would make ready to go. To this proposal the concierge
made some
objection,
but the banker
then took up the conversation, and inquired
he wished to see a party of English the prison,
He
soldiers in
pointed out the danger which
the concierge might himself incur if he scene in the prison,
which he held
at
moment
all
a
to go,
regular go-
an end, particularly that from
his authority,
was in the possession of the
To
made
by refusing me leave
observing, that for the
vernment was
if
and that the
city
troops.
these arguments the gaoler was constrain-
VOL.
II.
R
MEMOIRS OF ed to yield a reluctant
ed to
his regiment,
assent.
and
My
son return-
I proceeded with the
banker to dispose of myself in lodgings. On reaching the hotel which I had occupied at the time of
my
found that
I
arrest,
plundered of the whole of fects,
and the only
regarding sons had
my
come
lost
my
had been
baggage and
ef-
intelligence I could obtain
property was, that some per-
to the hotel arid carried
Having been one of the liberty, I
I
first
it
away.
to obtain
my
had an opportunity of observing the
extraordinary change which took place in the
appearance of the streets of Paris by the influx
At
of the Allied troops.
the openings of the
great thoroughfares, strange troops were seen in
the exercise of military duty, and cannon was
planted at
all
license of the soldiery
considered
by many
was
At
first,
the
so great, that it
was
the principal passes.
to be unsafe to appear in
the streets at any hour in the day, and an order
was issued that no one should be permitted to go from one house to another after eight o'clock in the evening, without a regular passport.
In order to preserve the peace of the town,
SIR
the
Duke
JAMES CAMPBELL.
of Wellington, with his usual discre-
charge of
tion, entrusted the
Guard
243
it
to the National
and the public reason assigned for it was, that as these troops and the people were ;
mutually
known
to
each other,
disturbances
and commotions would, probably, be less frequent, and would, at least, be more easily quelled under their superintendence, than if the in-
habitants of Paris were brought into collision
with foreigners.
For a day
arrival of the troops, the
or
two
after the
good people of Paris
were obliged to pass their evenings without the
enjoyment of those spectacles which appeared to have life
was
;
become
but
as
to
them a
soon as a moderate degree of order
restored, the theatres
a great accession to the tors
sort of necessary of
were re-opened with
number of the
specta-
from the ranks of the Allied army.
The French army was
still
in great force in
the neighbourhood of Paris, amounting, said, to
not
less
than 130,000
men
;
it
is
but the
which had been taken up by the Duke of Wellington on the heights above St. Cloud,
position
was such
as to place
him beyond the reach of R 2
MEMOIRS OF
244 attack.
After he had thus entrenched himself,
he proceeded to open a communication with the French army, for the purpose of inducing
them
to retire
beyond the Loire and ;
it is said,
that for the purpose of promoting this negotiation,
he sent for the French Marechals, and
in-
vited them, under the protection of his parole, to inspect his position, and judge if
it
were not
tenable against any attack which they could
make upon
The attempt was pronounced
it.
and
to be hopeless,
it
French troops should requested. lessly as idol,
The
and
They
was agreed that the
retire as the
did
so,
Duke had
plundering merci-
they went, exclaiming against their calling
Prussians,
it
him a
deserter
and a coward.
was believed, with the sanc-
tion of their veteran
commander, were desirous
of burning the town
:
they had undermined
one of the bridges, that nearest to the Jardin de Plantes, and had taken other steps towards the accomplishment of their object.
But the
Commander-in-chief, with his usual promptito
tude, interfered to prevent so great a calamity,
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIB
245
by marching his English troops to the points where danger was apprehended. It
is
known
different
that there were a great
number
of Cossacks with the Russian army, at the time that the Allies
marched on
Paris,
and that
was a good deal of fighting in the neighbourhood of the capital, before the contest was there
finally
abandoned by the adherents of Bona-
happened to have an opportunity of seeing some of these skirmishes, and of reparte.
I
marking the extraordinary manner the Cossacks
made an
attack.
which
in
A pulk of Cos-
sacks consists in general of about five hundred
men, and
is,
therefore, in
some degree,
gous to our squadron of light troops. vance of the French
line,
and
analo-
In ad-
at a distance
from infantry, which the Cossacks could not have approached with safety, one or two squadrons of heavy cavalry had just formed,
when
a pulk of Cossacks suddenly galloped up within fifty
yards of their front, and halting,
loud, hollow,
and consentaneous
ha, ha,
made a ha of a !
laugh, something between merriment and deri-
MEMOIRS OF
246
which was
sion,
startle th&
well calculated to
certainly
French troops,
moment when,
at a
in place of a laugh, they were prepared to re-
ceive a charge from the enemy.
The French were
certainly not afraid of
attack which might be
any
made upon them by
a
force which, considered as light, could not be
much
regarded by heavy cavalry
;
but the
momentary feeling of hesitation, whatever it might be, made them delay their charge for an and gave the Cossacks time to discharge their carbines and pistols in a style somewhat desultory and irregular, but with instant,
sufficient precision to
bring
down
men, to wound a number of
a
good many
horses,
and
to
throw the French squadron into some degree of confusion.
The Cossacks
did not wait to
see the consequences of their volley, but wheel-
ed about, and instantaneously dispersed in directions, leaving
no
all
definite or tangible object
on which the French could make a charge. They had the imprudence, however, to follow the fugitives as they were scattered over the plain,
and in the
series
of single combats which
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
247
followed, the Cossacks had a decided advantage,
from the
horses,
and
activity
their
own
and handiness of
decided superiority, not
in horsemanship merely,
ment of the
their
but in the manage-
sabre.
remember that manoeuvres not materially different from this occurred sometimes as long I
ago
as the
A few days after
Seven Years' War.
the battle of Corbach, the 1st regiment of dra-
goon guards had some pickets advanced in front of the Allied camp. tack was
On
these pickets an at-
made by two regiments
those of Bercini and Conflans
who commanded and
in person,
spirited officer,
;
of hussars,
but Bercini,
and was an active
was perfectly aware that he
durst not attempt to charge our heavy cavalry, since
he must have known that
his horses
were
too slight, and the hussar manner of fighting
not adapted to an encounter with the force opposed to him.
They
galloped up, however, to the front of
the English troops, shouting and making a great show, as if they
the temper of the
would
men was
charge.
so
much
At
this
irritated,
MEMOIRS OF
248 that in
spite of their officers,
they galloped
after the
like the cloud of Cos-
sacks,
all
enemy, who, had dispersed in
moment they were joined
directions
in single
;
but the
files,
they
were ready to give battle ; and although there was not a better regiment in the British service than the 1st dragoon guards, the event
was just what might have been anticipated unThe corps was comder the circumstances. and yet no blame was imputable to the men but their invincible courage.
pletely ruined,
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
CHAPTER Madame
Persecutions of
presence of mind.
A
lands.
to
Spa.
The
Relics.
inhabitants.
Prince of Orange.
Public
for
Ma-
A
Profes-
Law
of the Nether-
Public
Spectacles.
Manner of
living
Burial place of Charlemagne.
Customs.
Characters.
The
Prince and Princess of
Lord and Lady Kinnaird.
Ligne.
entertainment
Admi-
alarm.
damages.
Manners.
Anecdotes.
The Prince de
Salms.
An
Aix-la-Chapelle.
Site of the town.
there.
Action
self-advocate.
Lady Campbell.
Return
Marry,
Proceed on our tour.
Unpleasant rencounter.
sional dilemma.
Defence
Catholic Order of Charity.
demoiselle Ficklamont.
rable
Accusations.
Unfounded calumnies.
set out for Beauvais.
royal chase.
X.
Sassen.
of the Author's conduct.
and
249
Ludicrous
incident.
A
gal-
lant grocer.
FOR some sided at
VOL.
II.
time after
my
liberation I re-
Maurice's hotel, but found
R 5
myself
MEMOIRS OF
250 once more so
some her
visits
way
to
of
much exposed to the troublethe woman Sassen, who made
my
apartments
under
feigned
names, that I was induced to remove to a lodging
in
Rue
the
de Bourbon
1'Eveque,
where, on her next intrusion, I sent for the
Commissary of sures
as
Police,
who took
such mea-
deterred her from returning to
in person.
#
me
SIR
In steering
JAMES CAMPBELL.
my
and quicksands of been
accused
of
course
know
I
life,
the
among
numerous
shoals
that I have
offences
against
the dictates of prudence and good manage-
ment, and I have but too fear
the
that
groundless. I
imputation
been
It has
had squandered the
had descended and that
I
to
reason to
not
altogether
is
said,
however, that
fair inheritances
me
had even
much
which
from laid
my forefathers, my hands on the
moderate provision which the fortune of Lady Elizabeth VOL.
II.
Callander
should
R 6
have
produced
MEMOIRS OF
252 her children
for
and
;
am
I
not ashamed to
acknowledge that one of my chief motives for offering these volumes to the world, ori-
state
anxiety to disclose the true
my
ginated in
of the
fact,
and
disabuse the world of
as far as
some of the calumnies
which have attached themselves to
And
here
I
may
be, to
may
as
well
my
name.
take notice of r
some other
my
slanders
expense during
which were circulated
my
at
absence in the East,
and afterwards while a prisoner in
France,
and Holland, and equally beyond the reach of reply or contradiction. At one time it
had accepted the pay of Russia, another that I was engaged in negotiations
was at
said that I
with Bonaparte I
;
it
was even asserted that
had done the work of that infamous
of which at the
moment
police,
was the victim.
I
In evidence of these aspersions,
it
was
said
i
that I had been seen at one time in French, at
another in Russian uniform, although the
only
military
dress
which
I
had worn for
twenty years before was that of the Ionian
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
253
Republic, as different as possible from
any
thing ever recognized in France or Russia. It
is
some resemblance
true that there was
between
the
tri-colour
of
blue,
Napoleon,
white, and red, and the Venetian flag of St.
Mark,
blue, red, for
stituted
and yellow, which was sub-
the English
when
I
took
my
departure from Greece.
But although, when
a prisoner in France, I
sometimes wore
old sion
Ionian uniform, raise
to
which
VOL.
I
I
II.
never had any occa-
a doubt as
had served.
R 7
my
to the flag
under
MEMOIRS OF
254
#
On
the
third of
married to
my
1815,
February,
I
was
she was then
present wife;
about nineteen years of age, and the eldest
daughter of banker, greatest restore
my
who had need,
me
to
old friend often
and
assisted
did
liberty
what
and remained there
which
we
returned
furnished a house in
Descot, the
me he
set
in
could
and home.
day of our marriage we vais,
M.
On
my to
the
out for Beau-
for six weeks, after
to
the
Paris,
Rue
and
having
de Bourbon
Villeneuve, ter,
my
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
we
set ourselves
down
255 for the
win-
son Major Callander, at the same time,
occupying a house on the opposite side of the street.
At
the end of the season, or rather
before the gaieties of the
we
set
town were concluded,
out for Compeigne, and from thence
proceeded to Cambray, the head-quarters of the British army, where we remained for six '
weeks.
The
many
scene was a very gay one, and afforded excellent opportunities for judging the
The French
characters of the rival nations.
had, as usual, the ascendancy in
all
that re-
garded the mere externals of breeding, and the
young English
officers
masters in requisition to
had a corps of dancing
mould
their steps into
From
the graceful gravity of the quadrille.
Cambray we proceeded
to Valenciennes,
Valenciennes to Mons, and from sels,
staying for a
week
intermediate stations.
or
two
Mons
from
to Brus-
at each of the
In Belgium, I had the
none of that asperity and soreness of feeling existed with reference to the English, which I had too often occasion satisfaction to find that
MEMOIRS OF
256
to witness in Paris,
The
and in other parts of France.
inhabitants of the
verbial,
besides, for
Low
their
Countries are prostrict
attention
to
which I have always held in the highest estimation. had another inducement to make some stay at Brussels, from cleanliness, a quality
We
the numbers of this
my
countrymen who had by
time taken up their residence in the capital
of the Netherlands, so that hire a house,
and stay there
we were for
induced to
some months.
r
Towards the
close of the
summer, we went
and in consequence of the delicate state of Lady Campbell's health, we were induced to to Spa,
make some
stay at that
At Spa
delightful watering
had a daughter born to me, and Lady Campbell had the advantage in that interesting situation of the greatest care and place.
I
tenderness from her friend Mademoiselle de
Ficklamont, the daughter of the governor of
This young lady was a
the
district.
of
the chapter of
member
Channoinesse, a Catholic
endowed by the general Government of Germany. The members are all order of charity,
of the highest rank, they are admitted at four-
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
teen years of age, and or withdraw from
de
it
may remain
during
life,
Mademoiselle
at pleasure.
Ficklamont had a
257
she
separate fortune,
spoke English fluently, and French and Ger-
man
like the natives of either country,
but her
filial
duty induced her to renounce
the ad-
vantages she enjoyed as a ter of Channoinesse,
member
all
of the Chap-
and brought her to stay
with the Count her father in his government at Spa.
In this neighbourhood there
which
is
partly
in
marcation
partly situated Prussia, is
and
is
in as
a royal chase,
Belgium,
the
line
and
of de-
not very accurately defined,
and
occasionally gives rise to altercation
ference between the sportsmen
who
it
dif-
enjoy the
permit de chasse from either monarch, and the officers
entrusted by the other with the pro-
tection of his interests.
I
had leave to shoot
from the king of the Netherlands, and had gone out on the 3d of October, soon after Lady Campbell's accouchement, to enjoy a few days sport,
but had omitted to carry with
me
the
written authority, or permit de chasse, which
VOL. n.
s
MEMOIRS OF
258
I had obtained at Brussels.
down
I
had
set
myself
which happened to be situated in the Prussian territory, and when I
went
in a village
to shoot over that part of the
demense to
which my authority applied, the
officer in
of the Belgic interests, accosted
me
which
I
manner
conceived to be rude and unmannerly,
inquiring
from ?
in a
charge
who
was and where I had come
I
I answered his inquiries with sufficient
precision,
but in a manner which probably
dicated that I was a good deal ruffled.
me
then menaced
moment
no
I took
with an
arrest,
but
in-
He
at the
what apbe a mere bravado, and refarther notice of
peared to
me
to
turned to
my
village inn, across the Prussian
frontier.
On my
return to Spa, I found
bell in a state of great alarm, in
Lady Camp-
consequence of
a communication she had received from the
governor that
by the
officer
had been placed under arrest of the chasse. The Count de
I
Ficklamont had of course been misinformed in this particular,
and
as his information
bably proceeded from the
officer
had pro-
of the chasse
SIR
who
JAMES CAMPBELL.
resided at Spa, I
went with Colonel Ca-
who was with me
meron, a friend
demand of
this person
conduct.
He
259
at the time, to
some explanation of
his
expressed himself very
again
rudely, and a scene ensued on which
it is
un-
necessary to dwell.
Some days entered
my
afterwards, a party of gens d'armes
house at an early hour in the morn-
and broke into Lady Campbell's apartment while I was asleep in an inner room. She ing,
was naturally a good deal agitated, and the more so from her knowledge that I was not without arms, and that I might be induced,
from the nature of the aggression, to make too She had the address, hasty a use of them. however, to enter pistols before I
room and withdraw the
was made aware of the cause of
the disturbance. the
my I
seat of judicial
was then carried to Liege, authority, escorted
by
a
party of nine men.
On
our arrival at Liege,
it
was found that
the writ, under pretence of which I had thus
was a mere order to appear on a future day, and not a mande d'arret, as the illibeen
arrested,
8
2
MEMOIRS OF
260
had supposed. course immediately liberated; but
I
was of
in
conse-
terate gens-d'armes
quence of this proceeding, which seemed to be in the nature of an action of damages, it was necessary for
me
to find security that I should
not leave the territory of the Netherlands until
Mr. Cochran,
the suit was ended. at
my
banker
Spa, an Englishman of respectability, was
good enough
to interpose his credit for
this occasion,
was
and
as
soon as
sufficiently recovered,
me
on
Lady Campbell
we went
to Liege to
remain for the winter.
When
the cause
a considerable
came on
sensation
in
for trial, it excited
the
district,
and
town of Liege, where the of the two parties which divided
particularly in the
angry feelings
the country were often in danger of disturbing the public peace.
The French
or Republican
party was more numerous, but the English or
Monarchical had the greater share of influence
and
respectability,
cause as
much
and
it
is
probably to this
as to the merits of
my
or to the talent of the learned person
ducted
it,
that the issue of the suit
is
defence,
who
con-
to be as-
SIR cribed.
The
261
JAMES CAMPBELL.
officer
was
cast in his action,
and
in consequence of the violence of his proceedings,
as disclosed at the trial,
diately dismissed
from
he was imme-
his situation.
In choosing a lawyer to conduct I
was not guided,
as
my
defence,
might perhaps have been
prudent, by his political principles or by the
immediate party to which he belonged, but solely
legal
by the opinion I had formed of knowledge and acuteness. Happily
me, but unfortunately learned advocate
M.
as
proved for
it
his
for
my
Toste, the Court was dis-
posed to distinguish between the peculiar merits
of the lawyer and the interests of his
M. Toste was
a French refugee, a great admirer
of Napoleon, and a profession.
client.
man
of some celebrity in his
In conducting
nounced a high eulogium,
my
as
defence, he pro-
may
perhaps have
been his duty, on the English character.
On
this,
however, the Court interrupted him,
observing that he had gone too
far,
and that
such general eulogiums were not necessary to his client's defence.
M. Toste was probably
displeased at the interruption,
and with greater
.
MEMOIRS OF warmth than that if he
discretion immediately rejoined,
had
said so
much
in favour of
character and English principles,
lish
it
Engcould
only be imputed to him in his professional capa-
and
city,
as necessary in his opinion to the in-
terests intrusted to his care
;
and
in
making
he expressed himself so un-
this declaration
guardedly in the heat of the moment, as to close those republican sentiments
dis-
with which
it
was well known that the populace in general were too deeply tainted. In
this
emergency I began to
fear,
from the
apparent temper of the Court, that
were about to
suffer
learned representative
through ;
my interests the sides of my
I therefore started
and began to address the Court in a
strain
which was not very agreeable to some of auditors.
I
began by expressing
in the justice of the Court,
from the character of
whom
all
justice flowed.
ed to be a German, and said
from the bench
national
merits,
I
my
my confidence
which
their
up
arose, I said,
Sovereign, from
The plaintiff happenas so
much had been
as well as the bar
on mere
took the opportunity of
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
263
drawing a contrast between the countries to
which the
parties
belonged, observing
that
while the plaintiff's countrymen were doing
what they could to involve the Netherlands in anarchy and confusion, the English nation had restored to
them a King
for
whom
it
was im-
any sentiments but those of attachment and respect. On this the Pro-
possible to entertain
cureur Fiscal interposed, observing that
my
eulogium on the government and the King was and I, with refera work of supererrogation ;
ence to the revolutionary principles and the at-
tachment to the French which were
still
so pre-
valent in the country, remarked in conclusion, that in this instance, as in
many
others, it
was
not safe or prudent to speak the truth. I have already anticipated the issue, but the
expense
I
incurred in conducting
my
defence
was very considerable, and in conformity to a custom which is not peculiar to the Netherlands,
much
but which, "
as it appears to
more honoured
observance," I was costs,
not
me, would be
in the breach than the
indemnified for
my
because the suit was conducted by an
MEMOIRS OF
264
the service of the crown, and origi-
officer in
nated in a transaction in which he had been
engaged in
his public character as
an
officer
of
the Royal Chase.
On
the day after the
trial,
M.
Toste, in con-
sequence of the imprudent disclosure of his republican sentiments, received an order to quit the territory of the Netherlands in twenty-four
He
hours.
of strictly
was a man of great ability, and honourable feeling, and with that
warmth of temperament so common to the French character, he had too hastily thrown off the advocate to assert the rights of the man, ex-
no doubt by an interruption which he be-
cited
lieved the circumstances did not justify.
When
the order for his departure was announced to
me, I naturally tion,
because
which
is
do
I
I
felt
very deeply for his situa-
knew him
to be an emigrant,
but a convertible term for a person of reduced and narrow circumstances. I could not
I
all
wished in the way of remuneration, but
was not ungrateful
for his zeal in
my behalf,
nor unmindful of the service he had rendered me.
SIR
At
JAMES CAMPBELL.
265
the period in question, the judicial pro-
ceedings in the courts of the Netherlands were
conducted in the French language
was afterwards resident at issued
;
but while I
Brussels, an order
was
by the Government requiring that the
native dialect should be exclusively employed in their courts of Justice
the
Dutch language,
try
is
found to vary
journey.
At Liege
and German, but variety in
its
:
mean, of course,
I
for the patois of the counat
every stage of one's
it is
a mixture of French
at Brussels there
is
a greater
composition, which consists of
Flemish, Spanish, English, and French.
Campbell had a peculiar
facility in
Lady
acquiring
the different local varieties in the course of her charitable endeavours to relieve the sick
and
#
necessitous of her neighbourhood,
and in the
course of a season of scarcity which occurred
during our stay at Liege, she had unhappily occasion to see even
than was her wont.
more of the lower
classes
In consequence of these
attentions on the part of foreigners,
we had
ac-
quired some degree of popularity in the place, in
MEMOIRS OF
266 spite of the idea
which had obtained that I was
an Englishman, an
and a lover of
aristocrat,
monarchical power. It
is
known
to be customary
all
over the
Continent, on the occasion of giving a party, for the landlord to carry his
company
to the
opera or any of the public spectacles, and I
made
it
a rule, wherever I happened to be, to
make myself no exception from those about me.
Soon
the manners of
after the issue of the
had given a party, and having bespoken a piece at the theatre, I carried my com-
law-suit, I
pany to
see
it.
The popular
feelings at the
moment were by
strongly excited on our entrance a call for " God save the King," which in
general was received with anything but approbation, but in this instance
that
it
pleased
me
to find
the ebullition of popular sentiment was
decidedly in
its
favour.
In the spring of 1817
but as
it is
we
not a place of
later period of the season,
few weeks
returned to Spa,
much
resort until a
we went
to spend a
at Aix-la-Chapelle, partly to
fill
up
the time until the height of the season at Spa,
Sill
JAMES CAMPBELL.
267
and partly to enjoy the benefit of the waters for a rheumatism, with which I had been for some time
afflicted.
hour
is
somewhat
is
Chapelle
The manner
two
o'clock,
and
of living at Aix-la-
The
peculiar.
at the hotel
dinner
where we
lodged, the table-d'hote was conducted on a scale
of more than ordinary magnificence.
ing one day
how many were seated
On
at table, the
answer was, one hundred and eighty.
The
pense, including a bottle of table wine,
only forty-five sous each.
ask-
Lodgings
ex-
was
in the
more expensive. Our chambre asalon, with two other bed-rooms for
hotel were coucher,
the female servants, cost us a guinea a day, but it is
not the custom to pay for male servants'
apartments, nor for stable or coach-house.
The company and about
tomed
to
sit
at table
about two hours,
five or six o'clock
we were
accus-
go about half-a-mile out of town, to
a house on a neighbouring
hill,
which Bona-
parte had used as a telegraph station, to take
our
coffee.
From
thence
to dress for the assembly,
a concert and a ball,
we
returned in time
which was alternately
play being to each an
MEMOIRS OF
268
indispensable accompaniment. is
quite a
German town
Aix-la-Chapelle situated in a
it is
;
and having been the burial place of
valley,
Charlemagne a number of
shown
his relics are still
there, such as his crown,
which
is
still
used at the coronation of the Emperors.
The
inhabitants are not
high Germans, and
which
it
what
would be
are called the difficult to
say
faith has the ascendancy, the Catholic
or the Protestant.
At
the assemblies the gen-
tlemen are permitted to smoke, and very generally avail themselves of the privilege
practice
is
unknown at
to adjourn
in
but the
In the
Brussels or Spa.
course of the evening, the
tomed
;
company
little
parties
are accus-
from the
assembly room to an adjoining coffee-room to sup,
which
On
your
is
had on very moderate terms.
arrival at Spa, it
is
the custom to
announce yourself by sending your card to all the people of the place. In many respects the
mode
of living
is
The
simple and moderate.
roads are so bad that people do not use their
own
horses,
which
but prefer the hacks of the
are let out at a shilling a day.
place,
At
the
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
assemblies, the gentlemen
269
wear neither swords
nor decorations, and the ladies appear in the simplest attire.
The Prince move about
of Orange was accustomed to
very unassuming fashion. in the Sitting one morning at her window hotel at Spa, Lady Campbell observed a young in a
gentleman ride into the court-yard at
He
seemed to be unknown
to
full gallop.
the people of
the hotel, and was quite unattended.
His first
anxiety seemed to be for the safety of his horse,
which was greatly overheated, and when he found that the people of the hotel were not so zealous in his service as he required, he sent for the
groom of Lady
came known that the Orange.
It
Grenville,
visitor
when
it
be-
was the Prince of
was not unusual for the Prince to
travel in this unceremonious manner.
At Na-
mur, a frontier town, he was at one time detained for
want of
a passport,
and was not
re-
lieved until he had sent for the Mayor, and
showed him
On lic
his signet.
the occasion of his arrival at Spa, a pub-
breakfast was given to
him by the governor
MEMOIRS OF
270
and the other gentlemen of the town a subThis was just before our scription breakfast. departure for Aix-la-Chapelle. to
On
our return
Spa we found that the Prince had
turned, and had brought with
also re-
him the Princess
Soon afterwards we received an
of Orange.
invitation to breakfast with their Highnesses at the
house of a
M. de
Justanville, a delight-
ful residence, in the English style, about five or six miles
occupy
this
lend
to
it
M. de
from Spa.
Justanville did not
mansion, but was so liberal as to
any respectable person who wished
to give a party in
it.
breakfasted was fitted
The room up with
in
which we
a round table at
each of the four corners, which, on a preconcerted signal, rose through the floor, with
all
the necessary arrangements for the repast.
When we
were about to depart, we were
somewhat surprised by the presentation of a ticket to each of the guests for the price of the
breakfast;
a demand, which, to the English
visitors, at least, if
new
to the country,
must
have given rather an odd notion of foreign customs.
Among
the
company present were the
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
271
Prince and Princess of Salms, the Prince de
Ligne and 5
several
among whom
I
Kinnaird, &c.
English families of rank,
remember Lord and Lady
The arrangements were
con-
Those
ducted with some attention to
state.
who
sat at a sepa-
enjoyed the rank of Prince
rate table, attended
by persons of
stood behind their chairs.
The
rank,
who
Princess of
Salms was a very handsome woman, and had
been on the
stage.
She professed the Protes-
and the Prince being a Catholic, the marriage ceremony was, on that account,
tant religion,
performed by the left hand. Not long afterwards the Prince became a proselyte to the Protestant faith.
Before the departure of the Prince and Princess of
Orange from Spa, the inhabitants pre-
pared an entertainment for them, consisting of races in the morning, a subscription dinner,
a ball at night.
At
and
such public entertainments
was not customary to undergo the ceremony of presentation, and I had occasion to witness a
it
ludicrous incident which occured at the ball, in
consequence of the mixed nature of the com-
MEMOIRS OF t
pany, and the habitual want of the form of
The Prince
presentation.
of Orange was at
the time dancing, and the Princess, very simply attired,
was
sitting
on a
sofa with
Lady and
Miss Grenville, in a part of the ball-room which did not infer any pretension to
A very
state.
decent and respectable person, a grocer in the
town, walked up to Miss Grenville, and asked her to dance, and on receiving an answer from the
young lady
that she did not dance, he put
the same question to the Princess.
An
old
courtier standing by,
and observing the mis-
take, pulled the grocer
by the
him
sleeve, to
induce
to desist, when, mistaking the caution for
an imputation on his gallantry, he pressed his suit ness,
with a very laughable degree of earnest-
when some one
exclaimed, to the utter
" dismay of the poor grocer,
of Orange."
It
is
the Princess
JAMRS CAMPBELL.
SIR
CHAPTER Return to Brussels.
XI. Character of the
there.
Company
273
Tact and address of Lady Campbell.
Gens-d'armes.
Treacherous proceedings at Edinburgh.
Singular verdict
of the Scottish Courts. lor.
Rules of law.
Appeal to the English ChancelHard measure. Leave Brussels.
Challenge a Dutch Baron. ality of the Allies.
Residence at Douay
Revisit Arras, Abbeville, St. Valarie.
Recollections and Anecdotes.
Rouen.
ceed to
Mode
Scenery of the Seine. Anecdotes.
ticism.
age.
Norman
Road
to Dieppe.
Contrast between
noblesse.
Theatrical cri-
Rouen and
Provisions.
Fruit.
St.
Bever-
Large and small towns.
IN the autumn we returned took up
gyle, with
hotel
and
Belle-
Dukes of Wellington and Ar-
many
were staying II.
to Brussels,
our residence at the
vue, where the
VOL,
Pro-
Delightful society.
of living.
Different prices.
Valarie.
Cordi-
others
at the time.
T
of
my In
countrymen,
this
house the
MEMOIRS OF
274
t
table d'hote
and, as
is
is
of the most splendid description
usual on the continent, the whole bu-
siness of the establishment is
lady,
;
Madame
who
Proft,
conducted by the
looks like any thing
rather than the keeper of an hotel.
quence of Lady Campbell's delicate
In consestate of
and the death of her infant daughter, we removed to a house in the Rue de Bous health,
Sauvage, where, on the 14th of November,
my
daughter Louisa was born.
In the observations which
when M. Foste was I
had occasion to
I
made
at Liege,
by the Court, remark, with some severity, interrupted
on the proceedings of the gens-d'armes, by whom I had been arrested without any legal warrant.
They wore,
carried the arms,
I said, the uniform,
of soldiers
had been on many a
field
;
and
but although
I
of battle, I had never
met with any of them where personal hazard In allusion to the
was to be encountered. duty they had performed arrest, I applied to
them
French language,
is
in reference to
my
a term, which, in the
somewhat opprobrious
that of chasseguex, which, I suppose,
may be
Sill
JAMES CAMPBELL.
rendered in English, by whatever the retinue of a sheriff' s I heard
275
is
meanest
in
officer.
no more of the offence which
I
had
thus committed against the whole body ofgetiscParmerie until the conclusion of the year 1817,
when tions,
accidentally learned that
I
my
observa-
which had probably been repeated without /
losing
much
in point or keenness,
had given
deadly offence to the Baron Rosen, the at the
officer
head of that species of force in the Ne-
therlands.
I
was informed that the Baron had
made some remarks on
my
conduct at the
trial,
I
which was not usual among gentleand through the same channel which
in a style
men,
brought
me
the intelligence,, I caused
it
to be
reported to the officer in question, that as soon as
any one of
his station in society should es-
pouse the quarrel of the person
me
in the
manner of
who had
treated
a chassegue, I should be
take the necessary notice of it. prepared to In place, however, of any hostile message the
Baron thought
fit
to use his influence with the
local authorities to procure a fresh
my
arrest,
warrant for
which was happily discovered by the T 2
MEMOIRS OF
276 tact
and address of Lady Campbell, before
was
carried into effect.
masked
was to
attended with
known
knew
We
had gone to a which it was known
ball at Brussels, at
that the Baron
it
assist.
a party
of
Lady Campbell friends who were
to the chief of the gens-d'armes,
who
that I was on habits of intimacy with
of the party, although
Lady Campbell's person would probably have been unknown to
many
him, even
if
she had not
The Baron
worn her mask.
inquired of
Lady Campbell
if I
was of her party, to which she answered in the negative, but said that she had often seen me at the
He
house of her friend.
then observed,
that I was of a very violent temper, and that
was not
safe to
permit
naturally excited
and she succeeded
Lady in
that he had at that
warrant for in force
The
my
me
to be at large.
This
Campbell's curiosity,
drawing from him the
moment
arrest,
it
fact,
in his pocket a
which he meant to put
on the following morning.
gallant chief of the gens-d'armes, as if
had given to the force which he com-
to verify the appellation
half military, half civil
I
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
manded, attempted next morning his
threat,
but before that time,
be believed that
I
make good
to it
had crossed the
Lady Campbell had
277
will readily
frontier,
and
the satisfaction of address-
ing a note to the Baron, to caution him against so hasty a confidence in future.
About
time I began to
this
feel the effects of
the combined manoeuvres of the
woman
Sassen
and her worthy coadjutors in Edinburgh. She had been advised to institute certain proceedings in the Consistory
Court of Scotland, on the
as-
me in compel me
sumption that she had been married to France, the object of which was to
to adhere to her, as the legal phrase was, or at least to
pay her damages, or aliment,
of three hundred a-year.
It
at the rate
was soon found,
in
consequence of the judgment which had been
pronounced on
my
application
by the proper
was no pretence for holding that she had ever been married to me. But it is said to be a rule of the law of Scotofficers at Paris, that there
land, that if
two persons
live together, as
mar-
ried people, that a presumption of marriage will
thence arise of sufficient force to entitle
it
to
MEMOIRS OF
278
recognition as a valid contract
by the Courts
Law.
of
On
this idea a
inferred the
though
new
suit
was
instituted,
abandonment of the
first,
which
but
al-
in both actions, all idea of a marriage
was scouted by the Court, they came
to the
extraordinary resolution of giving the
woman
the full
amount of her pecuniary demands,
under pretence of the breach
I
had committed
of their peculiar code of morality; as
whom
if
the party
was thus proposed to reward with such distinguished liberality had not been a it
participator in the offence for
to be
mulcted so severely.
which I was thus
I caused the
ment of the Consistory Court
to be brought
under review of the Court of Session land,
which
is
judg-
in Scot-
the
Supreme tribunal in all civil country. But the Court of
matters in that
Session appeared to be guided by the same in-
explicable motives which produced the judg-
ment
against
me
in the Consistory Court,
and
all
that they could be prevailed on to do, was
to
award
mitigation
me
something in the nature of a
of
punishment, by reducing the
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
279
woman's reward from three hundred to two hundred It
to
a-year.
was not to be supposed that
down under such
sit
the country to which
have accordingly the
a flagrant piece of in-
could appeal
I
in so far as
it
me
But
to the
to
lant
when
his
it
is
a cause
by appeal from the Court of Session
House of Lords,
what
I
ample jus-
I understand
a rule of the law of Scotland, that carried
and
was possible to carry
into effect.
judgment
;
satisfaction to record that
the Chancellor of England did
is
was tamely
long as there was a higher court in
justice, so
tice,
I
is
the plaintiff
is
entitled
called execution against the appel-
pending the appeal.
The law
many just in
of Scotland, although
singular forms,
admits of
not, I believe, so un-
is
its principles, as
it
to
admit of one party's
retention of the property of another, after
it
has been declared by the Court of last resort,
VOL,
II.
T 4
MEMOIRS OF
280
that such retention
is illegal.
It
is
accordingly
an provided, that the plaintiff who, pending appeal, puts the
judgment of the Court below
execution against the appellant, shall be
in
bound
to find security for the
money,
To
repayment of the
in event of a reversal of the
this
moment
I
have never been able to
ascertain the nature of the security
found for have been
my
judgment.
which was
ultimate indemnification
told,
;
but
and I cannot help thinking
the information not very unreasonable, that
my
interests
lar so
I
have been neglected
if
in a particu-
important, as the finding of security, I
ought to have recourse against the individuals to
whom,
in
my
absence, these interests were
entrusted.
On
leaving Brussels, I directed
my
course to
the line of the Allied army, the nearest point
of which I found at Douay, the seat of the celebrated college of Scottish Jesuits, where his
SIR
Majesty the
of
JAMES CAMPBELL. and
the Netherlands,
commander of the
281 still
less,
chasseguex, could have
Finding myself then
anything to say to me.
I wrote a civil note to
upon equal ground,
the Baron, to say that I should be happy to
meet with him
at the nearest outpost.
His an-
swer was, that he would not go out of his way to seek me, but that, if I crossed his path, he
would give me the meeting. In a second note, I reminded him that he had not far to go to the nearest French post, and added that I was
ready to attend him within an hundred yards of
it
;
but to
this also
he gave
me
an evasive
answer, and I have since heard no more of the
Baron de Rosen, or the gem-d'armerie of the Netherlands.
We
remained a few weeks at Douay, and
during that time, in consequence of some
change in the French and Allied
town was
given up
to
lines,
local
the
a French garrison.
From thence we proceeded to Arras, where we stayed for a month or two, and had the pleasure of a visit from
who was
my
stationed with
son Major Callander, his
regiment about
MEMOIRS OF
82
While
troops.
on the same
distant,
twenty leagues
I
had occasion
line of
to observe the
ta
nature of the intercourse which took place be-
tween the French and the
Allies, I
am bound
to say, that the best understanding prevailed,
and that those who had in arms,
were now
of mutual
From
say that
it
we
ever visited. it
is
St.
Abbeville,
Valarie of which
I
the pleasantest place I have
The population
not great, but
is
most agreeable
residence of a stranger.
mouth
to
proceeded
just of the extent
is
rivals
and public entertainments.
and from thence to
may
been
as zealous in the interchange
civilities
Arras
so recently
It
for the
situated at the
is
of the Sornme,on the coast of Normandy,
and was formerly a considerable
seaport,
having
been the place at which William the Conqueror embarked for
England.
when he took
It is still
his departure
the seat of a custom-
house, and the residence of a commissary of
marine. lent,
The
inhabitants are in general opu-
the expense of living
derate,
is
remarkably mo-
and the English are very well received
by the gentry of the neighbourhood.
Our
CAMPBELL.
SIR JAMF.S
was to enjoy the benefit
object in going there,
of sea-bathing, for which
In early
life,
the
283
it is
very well adapted^
Emperor Napoleon had been a
frequent visitor at St.Valarie, and
it
was
that he had conceived a passion for a
lady of the place,
who was
very well
said
young
known
to
us as a respectable matron at the period of our visit.
The
good, but
hotels of the place are far it is
fair to
from being
say that the charges cor-
respond to the quality, and any one disposed to
make
a considerable stay,
accommodated
fortably
which are
to be
had
in
in the
may be
very com-
furnished-lodgings,
town both good and
cheap.
Nothing could be more delightful than the We found it indeed so society of St.Valarie.
much
to our mind, that
of the
summer and
From
the
first
we remained
the whole
part of the following winter.
day of our
arrival,
we found
ourselves well received in the best society of
the place
;
and when
I
speak of best, I would
be understood to say that the place was happily free
from
all
distinction of castes,
and from
all
those ridiculous assumptions of superiority of
MEMOIRS OF
284 one
many
An
over another, which operate in so
class
places as a bar to all rational enjoyments.
neighbourhood in England a loss to understand how it was
aristocratical
would be
at
possible to get
on in a place where the forms of
presentations were dispensed with, but certainly
we were
not disposed on that account to de-
preciate the delightful society of
Whist and
St. Valarie.
were the ordinary amuse-
ecarte
ments of the evening, but the play was for such moderate stakes, that it could not be stigmatized with the
name
Sometimes a
of gaming.
little
fete was given, as
by a
family on a favourite birthday, or by a merchant
on the
arrival of a ship,
our stay,
it
some return
and
in the course of
was necessary for us for the
numerous
ceived from the inhabitants.
we borrowed
also to
civilities
On
make
we
re-
one occasion,
the Bois de Rosiere, a villa in the
neighbourhood, for the purpose of giving an entertainment
to
our
friends
Such was the mildness of the had breakfast breakfast
we
set
of the place.
climate, that
out in the open
air.
we
After
danced, dined in the open air and
Sill
danced again, and sylvan
285
JAMES CAMPBELL. at night-fall
ball-room lighted
lamps suspended from the
we had our
up with wax and trees.
the ladies of St. Valarie outnumbered
As
the gentlemen, our amiable friend Mr. Hancock,
now Lord
Castlemain, a very good
and
ele-
gant young man, brought with him a party of the officers of the Cuirassiers d'Artois, a regi-
England would be called a crack and they certainly added very much to
ment which corps,
in
the spirit and gaiety of the day. there were
some
fifty guests,
At and
this party
at another,
which we gave in the town, there were upwards of eighty, but will it be believed, that the
first
cost us not
more than
five
the second something less than ten I
cannot
leave
St.
?
Valarie without some
notice of the hospitality
we uniformly
pounds, and
and attention which
received from the English Consul,
Mr. Saunders, with whose amiable family we had generally the pleasure of spending our Sunday-afternoons.
On
these occasions, Mr.
Saunders, after giving us a good plain dinner,
would
call in his
domestics, and read to us the
MEMOIRS OF
286
English service for the day, and
I
must do the
Catholic inhabitants the justice to observe, that
when they would
thus discover us at prayers,
they would take off their hats and pass on
with
some
of
expression
sympathy
in
our
devotions.
From
St.
Valarie
we went
to
Rouen, and
passed there the remainder of the winter. all
that regarded comfort
more with reference
and
and
still
we found
this
society,
to expense,
great mercantile and manufacturing
very reverse of blesse
St. Valarie.
the town, and in general
town the
The Norman
take to trade, but few of
In
them
we found
no-
reside in
the English
inhabitants living together on very uncomfortable terms.
In consequence of this impression,
we made no
acquaintances at Rouen, where
we
were induced to stay longer than was quite agreeable to us, in consequence of the delicate state of
Lady
Campbell's health.
The
scenery
of the Seine, and the general aspect of the country, particularly is
on the road to Dieppe, which
a continued orchard,
would no doubt have
been beautiful at any other season of the year,
SIR
but speaking feelings, I
garded
my
had nothing to regret when we found
enough
inhabitants of as
287
always do according to
as I
ourselves strong
The
JAMES CAMPBELL.
to return to Paris.
Rouen
eminent for their
are generally reskill in theatrical
criticism, so
much
the stage
successful in passing the ordeal of
their
is
so,
judgment, he
is
that
when
a debutante on
understood to be sure of
an engagement at the principal theatres in Paris.
As an
illustration of
one of the numerous shades
of difference between French and English ners, I
made
may mention
man-
an application which was
Lady Campbell by a gentleman of Rouen, who was very little known to us. Two very plain-looking girls, who were known to be to
English, were seated in a box not far from our place in the theatre, and the object of the gen-
tleman's question was very plainly to inquire as " !" said to the amount of their fortunes.
Ah
Lady Campbell, able,
"
for
these
" that question
young
ladies
is
are
not allowEnglish."
Then," said the gentleman, with an expressive
" shrug of his shoulders,
if their
not be inquired into, there
is
fortunes
may
no chance for them,
MEMOIRS OF
288
they will never go
off."
The French drama
at least as pure in all that regards
is
decorum and
morality as can well be claimed for the English,
but
it
not to be denied that an occasional
is
double entendre will
make
its
appearance, of
which no one takes any notice but those who
up
for censors of the public
was with
this view, probably, that
are anxious to set
morals.
It
the lady of an English Admiral, then resident
Rouen, thought fit to mark her sense of some slight indecorum by rising up to go away on
at
;
which a French gentleman observed, that he perceived the atmosphere of a dock-yard was
not particularly favourable to the improvement of manners. If I praised St.Valarie as a place of residence
would be disposed in almost to say the reverse of Rouen. In the
for a stranger, I all
respects
expense alone of living, the difference remarkable. scarce, dear,
Fish, for instance, at
and
far
is
very
Rouen was
from being good
;
while at
ling,
you might have a turbot for a shiland a large John Dory for a single sous.
The
poultry of
St.Valarie
Normandy
are everywhere ex-
C
cellent francs,
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
289
but a fowl, which at Rouen cost four
;
may be had
at
St.
In
Valarie for one.
the large towns, again, the ordinary price of
beef it
is
is
sixteen sous a pound, while in the small,
Rouen
good, but at
and
At
six.
only
both places butter it
is
two
dozen at
price at
Rouen.
What
is
all is,
Eggs
v
that at
Rouen, in
the midst of orchards, the price of fruit orbitantly high, the whole of to
England
grapes are
the lower
make are,
The
grown
ex-
is
being exported
table wine, as
in that neighbourhood,
who
classes,
create the
cider their only beverage.
demand
no
and
for
it,
Superior wines
of course, to be had, but at very great prices. result of the
particularly if
or commerce,
one
it
and you have no
;
are six
and double that
St. Valarie,
hardest of
very
francs a pound,
at St. Valarie twelve sous.
sous a
is
is
it
whole
is,
that a large town,
be the seat of manufactures
not to be compared with a small
as a residence for a stranger.
VOL.
II.
U
MEMOIRS OF
290
CHAPTER Visit Paris
XII.
and proceed to Switzerland.
Consult Dr. Stickleberg of Basle. Architectural beauty. ing.
Celebration of
Mode
Houses.
Anecdotes.
High Mass.
dotes of that Prince.
Mode
the Castle.
Baths.
Character of the
man
Character.
Dr. Stickleberg.
Manufactory of The Ex-King of Sweden. Anec-
Remove
to the Castle of Burglegen.
Population of the Forest.
A
of living.
Banditti.
Design upon
Leave Burglegen. The Peculiar Costume.
Mineral spring. Peasantry.
Contrast in French and Ger-
Correct morals.
Carnival.
inhabitants.
Carignan.
Teutonic order of Knights. Visitors.
Holbein's Paint-
The
Characters.
Prince
Anecdote.
Ribbons.
Pleasing society.
The Cathedral.
of fishing.
The
Lady Campbell.
Hunting.
Grand-duke
Baden.
of
Anecdote of the Grand Veneur.
FROM
Rouen,
as I
have
said,
to Paris, early in the spring, bell's
we
proceeded
and Lady Camp-
health not being yet confirmed,
solved to
make
we
re-
a short stay there, and after-
wards to proceed by easy stages to Switzerland. I
was induced to adopt
this step, as I
was told
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
by
my
solicitors, that
291
return to Scotland
my
might endanger the success of the cause which was then in progress through the Courts. At Langres
we were induced
or two, to see It
cutlery.
its
is
to remain for a
manufactures of hardware and
the Birmingham and Sheffield
of France, and in the ancient
from its elevated strength,
On
day
civil
wars
it
was,
situation, considered a place of
and was often an object of
contest.
this route the post-roads are execrable,
and the comforts of the post-house have no tendency to reconcile you to the fatigues of the journey.
At
the frontier
Befort,
town,
we
were teased about our passports, and advantageously reminded of the freedom of travelling
At
in England.
length, on reaching Basle,
and
consulting with Dr. Stickleberg, a celebrated
Swiss physician, as to health,
we
Lady
Campbell's state of
resolved to remain there for some
time, and with that view hired a furnished
house in the town.
On
farther acquaintance,
of Basle and
we remained
its
we
liked the society
neighbourhood so well, that
there for eighteen months.
u
2
It
is
MEMOIRS OF
292
needless to attempt a description of a place so
well
known
into
two equal
Basle.
as
The town
parts, that
is
divided
on the Swiss side
The
being considerably higher than the other.
an object of curiosity, not merely
cathedral
is
from
architectural beauty,
its
but from
with
historical recollections associated
particularly
from
its
the
and
it,
having been the place of
meeting of the celebrated Council of Basle. the church, which
we were accustomed
tend, a, degree of liberality ciliation
and a
of con-
which has hitherto exhibited
a very different disposition.
high mass was performed with of Popish worship.
and the
curtain,
to at-
was observable, well worthy of imita-
tion in a country
cifix
spirit
In
In the morning, all
the insignia
In the afternoon, the cru-
altar-piece
were concealed by a
and the Protestants assembled
in their
simpler fashion to say their prayers and hear a
sermon.
The
cloisters
of the cathedral
.
are
ornamented with Holbein's celebrated Dance of Death; and, indeed, the outside of every
house with any pretension to gentility, tered over, and painted
al fresco
is
plas-
with some
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
historical subject, in general liberties
On
293
connected with the
of the country.
the Swiss side of the town, the inhabi-
had a peculiar mode of fishing. The houses on that side are built on a precipice, tants
which high.
from twenty-five to thirty yards long pole is fixed on the brink pro-
varies
A
jecting over the water; at the end to
which a net
is
is
a pulley,
suspended, from ten to twelve
which are kept apart by slender pieces of wood. In the centre of feet square, the corners of
the net a quantity of bait
is
thrown, consisting
sometimes of worms and sometimes of bread,
which aniseed has been mixed to bring the fish over the net, which is so suspended as to in
have a considerable hollow in the centre. is
then lowered into the
river,
It
and sunk in
such a manner as that the circumference or
upper part
shall
be about two feet below the
surface of the water
;
and
it is
drawn up once a
day, at the proper interval before dinner, it
seldom happens
pointed of
its
that the family
regular supply of
consist of pike, trout, roach,
and
when
is
disap-
fish,
which
dace, with the
MEMOIRS OF
294
carp of the Rhine, so delicacy.
The
celebrated for
its
usual daily produce of one of
these domestic nets fish,
much
may be from
four to five
which weigh, on an average, from three to
four pounds each.
One
of our
first
acquaintances at Basle was
the physician Stickleberg, a
man
considerably
advanced in life, who had a peculiarity of humour which entitled him to the name of a character. In place of a hat, for instance, he wore a headdress in imitation of the calpack of a
interpreter to a foreign embassy fastidious
in
;
yet he was
observing that other people in
their dress attended to the reigning
our
table,
Turkish
At
mode.
one day, he met an old friend of his
own who wore
a queue, and after rallying
him
repeatedly on the singularity of this appendage,
he made some errand out of the room, and returning in a short time with a pair of sors,
had
his friend's
queue cut
scis-
off before his
return was observed.
Dr. Stickleberg was very the
much
teased
by
professional
consultations of a lady of a
who
believed herself afflicted with
certain age,
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
295
a thousand suppositions complaints, and would assail
the Doctor with a history of the
new
symptoms of her case, whenever and wherever she met with him. The bridge of Basle is, of thoroughfare, and in passing
course, a great
along on some occasion which called for dispatch, he found himself detained
by
his
hypo-
chondriacal patient, and with a view to dis-
engage himself from the expected attack, he said that
he was
sorry to
see
her
look so
and begged her to show him her tongue. With this the lady readily complied, but the
poorly,
Doctor desired to see more of her to shut her eyes close ,
and begged that she might do it it,
the better, saying at the same time that she
must not interrupt him with any remark while he was engaged in examining instantly
bridge,
it.
On
proceeded on his walk
and
left
this
along
he the
the lady to be gazed at by the
crowd, until she thought
fit
to open her eyes
to the practical joke of this eccentric old man.
Another of our Prince Carignan, his
regiment
at
early acquaintances
who was then
Nuningen, a
was the
quartered with
fortress
about two
MEMOTKS OF
296
miles from Basle, which has since been dismantled
on terms of an
article
of the treaty of peace which
had been stipulated by the Swiss Confederation. Although a person of great fortune and connected with the as heir to the
first
families of France, as well
kingdom of
Sardinia, the Prince
of Carignan was assiduous in his attention to the duties of his regiment.
He
was, besides, a
great admirer of the English, which was pro-
bably the cause of our making his acquaintance so early
he had
;
under the
all
the soldiers of his regiment
discipline of a school,
conducted on
the principles of Bell and Lancaster, and on
such account he was stigmatized by his coun-
trymen
with the taint
of Anglomanie.
He
was, nevertheless, a very intelligent and agreeable
young man, and added
materially to the
attractions of Basle.
In the town of Basle there was a great manufactory of ribbons
which are worn
women
is
of those black ribbons
so universally
of Germany.
blishment, as
:
by the peasant
The head of
the esta-
customary in Switzerland, was
of a noble family, and, besides attending to his
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
297
manufacture, he had taste and leisure for the
enjoyment of the
His residence in
fine arts.
Basle was princely, and on one occasion he re-
ceived a visit from the
Emperor Joseph the
Second, who, with an Imperial licence, inquired
where he got the money to purchase such a collection of pictures? "By my ribbons," was "
And
where do you sell them?" " In the Austrian terrejoined the Emperor. the merchant ritory, and all over Germany,"
the answer.
replied.
At
and desired
this the
his secretary to note it
serving, that there prise in his
Emperor seemed
own
surprised,
down, ob-
must be some want of
dominions,
when
it
enter-
was found
necessary to send to Basle for an article so extensively used.
The Ex-King
of Sweden,
who
styled the Colonel Gustafson,
chose to be
had been
resi-
dent for some years at Basle at the time of our arrival,
and
as
he was received by an English
family of our acquaintance,
we had
opportunities of meeting with him. a person of various accomplishments.
speak with fluency
all
frequent
He was He could
the modern languages
MEMOIRS OF
298
recognized as polite; he played with great taste
and had considerable pretento literature but I need not add that
on the sions
pianoforte,
;
his character peculiarities.
was marked by some extraordinary There was, for instance, a hotel
in the
town with a
figures
were painted, and gave the name to the
sign-board,
house, of the Three Kings.
on which the
Riding out with me
one morning in
my carriage, the Colonel begged
we might
not pass through the street in
that
which
this hotel
was
situated, as
he could not
bear to look on these phantoms of kings.
It
was evidently unpleasant for him to be reminded in any manner of his abdicated dignity ;
and when addressed by any one by the
title
of
Majesty, he would express his dissatisfaction in
terms which did not correspond with the ordinary courtesy of his
demeanour.
A
lady
of our acquaintance took a strange delight in
moving him on bell
this subject
;
and Lady Camp-
having a dog she had named Oscar,
this
lady would never cease speaking of the animal
by
this offensive
His occasional
name in the air
Colonel's presence.
of distraction was always
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
painfully aroused so that
by any
allusion of this kind,
Lady Campbell was
obliged to explain
dog had been
to him, that the
299
called
from one
of the ancient kings of Scotland, long before she had heard of the Prince of Sweden, of the revolutionary dynasty.
When
Ex-King came
the
was observed
to
first
to Basle, he
have no money, but had evi-
dently a large supply of diamonds, which
him an with
made
object of plunder to several persons
whom
he unfortunately
associated.
At
the time of our acquaintance with him, his
annual stipend of thirty thousand crowns was regularly paid, so that he could afford to live in a style superior to the
chosen to assume.
He
rank which he had
had been accustomed,
however, to a laxity of morals, which made him
amenable to the remarks of the good people of Basle;
who,
if
they are not better than their
neighbours, are at least more correct in the out-
ward observances of morality, and who do not even permit the appearance of those public
women on
the
street,
which are so much a
nuisance in other great towns, but
who
are
MEMOIRS OF
300
strangely defended
by some ingenious
casuists,
under pretence of their being a protection, a sort of fire-escape, or safety-valve, for public
morals.
Colonel Gustafson
we were
while
made
at Basle,
a visit to
and on
England
his return
we
found that he was deeply offended with his Majesty for making him wait when he went to
pay his respects at Carl ton-House. walked away without seeing the King
mind had taken such
and assigned that departure from Basle.
his conduct,
for his final first
came
to the town,
as a burgher,
for the
me
a spy
as a reason
When
he
appointment of
It is
but justice to say
that he was uniformly disposed to
inhabitants,
his
of the Artillery ; which, however,
was not given to him.
agreeable.
and
he had himself entered
and applied
Commandant
;
had
a colour from the cir-
cumstance, that he chose to think
upon
He
He
mixed a good
make
himself
deal with the
and frequently dined
at the table
d'hote.
After the birth of
my daughter
Menie, which
took place at Basle, on the 28th of May, 1820,
SIR
we went which
JAMES CAMPBELL.
301
to reside at the Castle of Burglegen,
is
situated in the Black Forest, about
eighteen miles from Basle, and near to the
This castle was of
small
town of Candern.
much
larger dimensions than
we had any
occa-
and the principal apartments were splendidly fitted-up with leather hangings, some sion
for,
with gold and others with
ornaments, in
silver
a style becoming the rank of the Teutonic
order of Knights, to
;
it
had
originally
There were no chimneys in the man-
belonged. sion
whom
every apartment was supplied with a
and those of the public rooms were of very large dimensions and richly inlaid with ornamental china. There was no furniture in stove,
the castle
when we hired it
for the
summer, but
the portraits of the Teutonic Knights
mained on the walls was a
dial,
;
and
in every
the hands of which,
still re-
room there
by some
in-
genious mechanical contrivance, for which the
Germans
are so remarkable,
great clock which
were moved by a
was situated
in
the attic
story.
The Teutonic
order of Knights has nume-
MEMOIRS OF
302
y
rous establishments, called Confreries, of which
the
Emperor of Austria
is
and from one of which,
the Grand-Master,
in ancient times, the
King of Prussia is traced. military, half monkish in their
descent of the are half
They nature,
and when the Castle of Burglegen, with other houses of the order, territory
Duke
fell
by an extension of
under the dominion of the Grand-
of Baden,
who
is
a Protestant Prince, [he
bought up these houses, and allowed the chapels connected with them to remain for the use of
by which they were
the Catholic population generally surrounded.
Having hired as much furniture at Basle as would furnish ten or twelve of the apartments,
we went main
to Burglegen, as I have said, to re-
for the
summer.
asked was only
The
61. a-year,
rent which was
but I was bound to
pay a stipend of 12$. to the Catholic Curate, who lived in one corner of the castle while his chapel was in another.
We went
occasionally
on
Sunday morning to hear mass, and after vespers we had always the curate and any friend
who might
be with him, to dine with us in the
SIR afternoon.
The
303
JAMES CAMPBELL.
peasantry were allowed in the
make
evening to dance in the hall; and to
them enjoy themselves, I was in the habit of sending them a few loaves of brown bread, a cheese,
and a small
barrel of the white
made them
the country, which
happy, at a very
all
wine of
exceedingly
When
trifling expense.
he
thought they had danced enough, the Curate
would go down to the hall to bid them disbut perse, which they generally agreed to do ;
would sometimes
affect a little
rebellion at his authority,
when
good-natured I
would
inter-
cede for half an hour's addition to their amuse-
ment. *
In consequence of these indulgences,
came great
we
be-
among the population of when I desired to invite a
favourites
the forest, so that,
few friends to a shooting-party, I could have two hundred men to beat the wood for us. Game was to be had in the
forest in great variety
wild boar, stag, and roebuck, hare, pheasant, and partridge.
The roebuck approached
the castle, that I have shot
den
;
and one had become
so near to
them from the so
tame
as to
gar-
be fed
MEMOIRS OF
304 at the
window by the hand.
numerous, and several
also
Hedgehogs were of them ran about
the house like domestic animals.
The
Castle of Burglegen
had long been a
show place in the country, so that I sometimes found myself surrounded with visisort of
tors
whom
I
had never before
elevated site on which placed,
it
was necessary
From
seen.
the castle had been for a stranger to
additional horses to his carriage, if he
drive
up
the
to the court-yard.
I
put
meant
to
was induced,
from that circumstance, to keep my own horses in the village, at the bottom of the hill. The house stood on a level of two thousand feet above that of the Rhine, so that the cold reached us at an early period of the season,
snow both itself
in
May
and we had
and October.
The house
could be seen from the windows of the
table d'hote at Basle,
and the view from
it
was
most extensive, including parts of France, Italy, Swabia, Wirtemberg, and the Swiss Cantons, besides the
Duchy
of Baden, in which
it
was
situated.
From
the
number of our
visitors,
we had one
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
day lic
305
week which was regarded as a puband those who came were expected to
in the
day,
was an arrangement
stay to dinner. This
tent with the manners of the country,
consis-
and was
conducted at a very inconsiderable expense, the cost of living
River trout was
being so very moderate.
plentiful,
quality 2^d. a pound, and
mutton of the best all
kinds of
game
in
no red wine grown in that country, but the best white wine is not more than twopence a bottle, and that was There
abundance.
what we took
is
ourselves,
We had also a
sitors.
and offered to our
very pleasant
of great strength, called kirsawaser,
the wild cherries which
grow
spirit,
vi-
and
made from
in the forest in
great profusion.
When we mer,
we
went
to Burglegen for the
sum-
did not give up our house in Basle,
but went there occasionally for a day or two, when we wished to visit our friends, or had any business to transact in the town.
nor paper-money, I found
it
is
used in that
Neither gold, district
II.
and
necessary, in returning one evening
from the town, to bring home with VOL.
;
X
me
in the
MEMOIRS OF
306
sum
carriage a
The
of 250/. in silver crowns.
weight, of course, was considerable; and on
the village where the horses stood,
arrival at
I employed a it
up
my
me
for
man who to the
lived there to carry
castle.
This
man had
bag when I went out to shoot, but was not otherwise known to me. often
He
carried
my
had, however, a sister-in-law
personal favourite of
who was
Lady Campbell, and
a
she
Ladyship to say that the man had been heard to talk of the money, and she
had come
to her
was under great apprehensions for our as she said there forest.
I
safety,
were dangerous people in the
had always
fire-arms
room, and did not adopt any
new
in
my
bed-
precaution in
consequence of the warning.
Lady Campbell, however, was more sensitive and in the middle of a night in the month of ;
September, she insisted on getting up, as there
was certainly some strange person moving in one of the adjoining corridors. On the servants being called and a search instituted, an
armed man was found in one of the uninhabited apartments
;
and on being brought to me, he
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
307
produced a mandate from the Baron
Grand Veneur, or requesting
me
who had been
chief
,
the
huntsman of the Forest,
to receive a
body of
men
thirty
and
sent for our protection,
in
the hope also of being able to apprehend a band
of robbers
who
who
infested the neighbourhood,
and
was known had a design on the castle. These thirty men were well-armed with carait
bines and pistols, and being joined
men from
twenty stout young remained in the at the
a
by about
the village, they
castle for three or four nights,
end of which they succeeded
number of persons who were
neighbourhood, and
who
in arresting
strangers in the
could not give us
a satisfactory account of themselves.
This circumstance probably served for our subsequent protection
at
;
least
we
did not
afterwards hear of any thing to alarm us,
al-
though the good people of Basle were not sparing in their remarks on the excessive hardihood of our venturing to reside in such a dangerous neighbourhood. charitable
enough
to
Some were even
insinuate that
I
could
only be actuated by a wish to keep a young
x
2
MEMOIRS OF
308
We
wife out of sight. as they deserved,
treated such remarks
and returned to Basle when
the winter was considerably advanced. I should have mentioned, that about eight
miles from Burglegen, there was a wateringplace,
which had been used
times, as there
were
for such in ancient
Roman
ing in good preservation.
baths
still
remain-
There was a natural
hot bath of a high temperature, and a separate mineral spring, cold and ferruginous.
It
is still
resorted to as a bathing-place, but from Burg-
legen
it
no road places
was not very for wheels,
was only
accessible, as there
was
and the track in some
practicable for the asses of the
country.
Before leaving Burglegen, I must say something of the peasantry of the neighbourhood.
They
are, in general,
very good-looking, and
their food consists of bacon with cabbage,
and
a kind of paste, like maccaroni, with a good deal
of milk.
Their kitchen utensils are of wood,
and are not kept
They ing,
in the best possible
are passionately fond of
order.
music and danc-
and scarcely attempt any movement but
Sill
JAMES CAMPBELL. It
their national waltz. as the phrase
pieces
is,
to hear
309
was quite refreshing,
them singing concerted
on their return home from the
neighbouring
from the
reverberation
accompanied by the
castle,
hills.
The peasant
dress like those of Swit-
girls
zerland, with the yellow chapeau de paille, or-
namented with broad black ribbons, a large bow on the one side of the head, and strings hanging to the
The
heel.
bodice
is
of black
velvet, with a stomacher embroidered with gold
or silver.
The
sleeves are of fine linen, reach-
ing near to the elbow, and tied up with a band.
The neck and bosom black velvet, which
is
with
The
silver chains.
worsted
stuff,
attached to the bodice petticoat
bordered with red.
and the petticoat waist extends and as
long,
;
up with
are quite covered
is
of black
The
waist
is
is
sharp cut as far as the
it
scarcely reaches to the
knee, the exhibition, with coloured stockings, green, blue, or red, embroidered clocks,
high-heeled shoes,
is
and
somewhat remarkable, par-
ticularly in a quick-tuned waltz.
I should
have
added, that over the plaits of the petticoat a
MEMOIRS OF
310
white muslin apron red flowers
is
worn, ornamented with
but certainly the tout ensemble
;
from the waist upwards
is
far
from being favour-
able to an advantageous display of the female shape.
At
Basle,
which
is
a very pretty town, and
i
was to us a most agreeable residence, there can scarcely be said to be any thing like public
They have indeed
amusement.
German
a theatre where
plays are performed, but
it
seems to
be discountenanced on religious principles, and is
little
very
frequented.
amusement appears
common
to almost
At
tinent.
Basle
it
Their only public
to be the carnival, all
begins with a procession of
On
day, they have an exhibition of ;
but what chiefly amused
representation of
mance, each character,
is
great towns of the Con-
children in their holiday-dresses.
trades
which
another of
all
sorts
us,
was the
some ancient legend or
ro-
individual assuming a separate
and the whole concluding with a
tilt
and tournay, in imitation of the ancient chivalry of the country.
The
carnival
a masquerade, with a ball
is
concluded by
and supper, the only
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
exhibition of the kind which
out the year.
For
it
is
known
They
through-
must be observed that
the sumptuary laws of Basle are force.
311
still
in full
are not indeed prohibitory, but
merely laxative, a certain price being paid for
any
special indulgence.
Thus, a fat bachelor
of our acquaintance, of rather unwieldy pro-
was prevailed on to give a dancingparty, and on applying for the necessary licence, the authorities of the place were almost portions,
driven from their propriety
by the ludicrous
inaptitude of the worthy applicant.
The
peasantry in the neighbourhood of Basle,
particularly in the direction of
Germany, have
some points of resemblance with the lower classes of
Wales and of the Highlands of
They
Scotland.
are equally pure in their morals; their
courtships are conducted with the same degree of
unhesitating confidence between the sexes, and
very
much
in the
same manner, nor are the
stances less rare than
among our own
in-
primitive
mountaineers of such confidence being abused. Farther up in the scale of society, the influence of good morals and correct feeling
is still
more
MEMOIRS OF
The domestic arrangements
observable.
more
like those of
England than perhaps any
other country in Europe. tracted
more from
Marriages are con-
feelings of attachment than
from mere motives of convenience, and seldom, indeed, that live apart. is
With
mixed up
in
are
man and
it
is
wife are seen to
good qualities, there the manners of the people a all
these
large proportion of state
and ceremony.
As
compared with the French, the Germans, in general, are certainly less polite, and perhaps in small matters less obliging;
warmth of feeling,
of heart and
the
but in goodness
common
offices
as well as in
of hospitality, they have
greatly the advantage of their
more polished
neighbours.
As
a trait of character, I shall here suggest
an instance to which I have seen
A
many
parallels
you after a walk of some extent, and you ask him with an air of great concern, if he would not desire to have in France.
friend visits
some refreshment ? proposal, and then
ring the
bell,
Your friend you
rise
accedes to the
with great
and order the attendant
alacrity,
to
open
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
313
the window, or you inquire with great earnestIf happily his answer
ness if he has dined.
prove to be in the affirmative, you have an opportunity of exclaiming at the greatness of
your disappointment
you must not
any
but
if
not so satisfactory,
case be disconcerted,
but
be understood that you have dined an
let it
hour ago.
The French mode
some excuse
for this apparent
Dinner
lity.
pittance
rateur
ham
in
;
;
is
is
is
of living affords
want of hospita-
seldom cooked at home, but a
procured from the nearest restau-
whereas, in Germany, a cold pie or a
always in readiness as a succedaneum
for better fare
;
and on
visiting a friend in the
country, the lady of the house will probably assure
you how much she
gives her such an appetite
VOL.
II.
X 5
!
loves hunting,
it
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
CHAPTER Principality.
de Bignon. of Baden.
XIII.
The reigning
Proceed to Carlsrhue.
Baron de Baner.
Prince.
M.
The Princess Tacher.
Margravine Dowager
Advantageous proposal.
Visit to Wirtemberg.
Recommendation
Mr. Hamilton.
to the Court of Admiralty.
scheme approved by the Grand-Duke. curious vehicle.
Bonaparte.
Courts of the
Strange requisition.
Mr. Cockburn, the British Minister.
A
315
Its
The Author's abandonment.
Princess of Wirtemberg.
Mysterious occurrence.
Death of
Eugene BeauharPrince Louis of Wir-
King and Queen of Bavaria. The wife of Marmont. Curious anecdotes. temberg nis.
Residence and mode of eral
Donadieu.
ney.
at
Baden.
Anecdote of Gen-
Hire a house at Bairstaen.
German Theatre. Poland.
life
The 'King of
Repair to Nantz.
Return to Paris.
Return to England.
M
.
Bailie.
Strasbourg.
A
Scotch Attor-
Family Anecdotes.
IN the spring of the year 1821, we took our departure from Basle, and proceeded to Carlsrhue, which has
become a town of some conse-
quence, and the chief residence of the Court of
MEMOIRS OF
316
the Grand-Duchy, in a manner somewhat ex-
The grandfather
traordinary.
of the reigning
Prince resided at Carlsbade, and erected a tomb for himself of the simplest construction, at an
unfrequented spot, about ten or twelve miles
from the place of greatly beloved
them a
ty,
by
built houses
town has
his residence
;
but he was so
his subjects, that
around
his remains,
many
of
and thus
arisen of considerable external beau-
which the successors of the favourite Grand-
Duke
have since adopted
as the residence of
the Court of the Principality.
On
our arrival at Carlsrhue,
we
hired a part
of the house of the Baron de Baner, the Grand
Referendaire to his Highness the Prince, and
took immediate possession of our apartments.
Next day we received a visit from an officer of some rank in the service of the Government,
who made sion,
for
a thousand apologies for his intru-
but trusted that
me
Duchy
it
would be convenient
to leave the territory of the in twelve hours.
On
Grand
inquiring into the
cause of this unexpected requisition, I found that
it
arose
from a circumstance so
trivial in
SIR its
JAMES CAMPBELL.
nature, that
much
may
it
317
excite surprise
consequence should be attached to
examining
my
passport,
the signature of a cretaries in the
it
how it.
so
On
was found to bear
M. de Bignon, one of the
department of what
relations exterieures of the
is
se-
called les
French Government.
The document had been submitted to the Grand Duke's inspection, and his Highness had perhaps some reason to be offended with a mandate under the han ds of the same under-secretary,
M. de Bignon, who had formerly been
the service of the
who,
it
in
Ex-Emperor Napoleon, and
seems, had retained his
employment
under the restored Government.
His Highness's uncle having
.rebelled against
the authority of Bonaparte, that great
manu-
and princes removed the reigning Prince from the government, and having placed the nephew on the vacant throne of the facturer of kings
Principality, condescended to give
him
to wife
the Princess Tacher de Beauharnais, the niece
of the Empress Josephine.
This lady was not
very cordially received by the proud Germans of a
Court whose pretensions
to
purity of
MEMOIRS OF
318
blood are in some degree supported by the splen-
dour of their connections
;
for it will
lected that the Margravine
Dowager
be
recol-
of Baden
was the mother of an Empress and of two Queens, those of Russia, Bavaria, and Sweden.
The
Imperial mandate was supported by argu-
ments which the Grand-Duke found
He
married the Princess of the
irresistible.
new dynasty
;
but from a feeling of repugnance to a connec-
which had thus been forced upon him, he never consummated the marriage. tion
This fact having reached the ears of the peror, a fresh
Em-
mandate, with the unwelcome
M. de Bignon, was dispatched to the Grand Duke, whose compliance with the
signature of
requisition
is
evinced by the living evidence
which every almanack records. Through the intervention of the Baron de Baner, the circumstances attending the passport were explained
to his Highness's satisfaction stacle arose to
;
and no other ob-
our enjoyment of the society at
the Court of the Grand-Duchy, unless, indeed, I except the period during
to
bed by a severe
fever,
which I was confined
which did not permit
SIR
me
JAMES CAMPBELL.
to rise for thirty-three days.
319
My recovery,
however, was so rapid, that within five days after I
upon
was
my
able, in
legs, I
Parliamentary phrase, to get
went out and shot a hare and
a
woodcock.
In the course of
my
residence at Burglegen,
two circumstances occurred
to
me
as capable of
being turned to individual as well as national
The oak timber
advantage.
in all those parts
of the Black Forest which I had an opportunity of traversing, had every appearance of being
well fitted for the purposes of naval architecture,
and from the vicinity of many parts of
this
extensive forest to a navigable river like the
Rhine,
it
seemed to
me
that an arrangement
might be entered into which might advantageous
to the
my own I
power of Great of the Principality, and
advancement.
had observed,
ness of the white
ceiving that to have into an
it
be
naval
Britain, to the interests
to
at once
it
also,
the extraordinary cheap-
wine of the country
might be
;
and con-
beneficial for all parties
burnt into brandy, so as to convert
it
exportable commodity, I resolved to
MEMOIRS OF
320
communicate on both subjects with the two
With Governments immediately interested. this view, I went to Wirtemberg to wait on Mr. Cockburn, the British
Minister at that
Court, and the brother of Sir George Cockburn,
one of the Lords of the Admiralty.
Cockburn, I
am bound
to say, that he received
manner becoming his the King's representative, and that in
my communication station as
Of Mr.
entering with
me
in a
into the investigation of the
circumstances, he discovered a high degree of ability.
I have also the pleasure of bearing
timony to the
talents
of
tes-
Mr. Hamilton, the
Secretary to the Embassy, with
whom
frequent opportunities of consulting subject.
my I
had
on the
After they had carefully examined
the details of the plan, they recommended that I should
submit the statement I had prepared,
with the result of sideration of the
my
calculations, to the con-
Board of Admiralty.
Having
followed their advice, I received a communica-
from the Board, in which a proper acknowledgement was made for the trouble I had
tion
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
321
taken, and a desire was expressed for farther
information on the subject. I
then waited on the Grand-Duke, and
opened the idea to him, when I found, fully anticipated, that the proposal larly agreeable to his
had
was particu-
He
Highness.
as I
have the necessary roads between the
offered to forest
and
own
the river immediately constructed at his
expense, as well as the temporary accommodations
the
which would be necessary
workmen employed
timber and preparing
most convenient
for the use of
in cutting
down
The
for the floats.
it
size for the floats
the
was found to
be about two hundred feet long, broad, and six or eight feet deep.
fifteen feet
A
raft of
these dimensions could be navigated as far as
Rotterdam by five men, for whom a hut erected on it would serve as a temporary residence. Such
by
floats
are guided
a sort of helm,
by long
and are
poles, assisted
carried along
by the
In cutting
ordinary current of the river.
down
so large a quantity of timber as the wants of
Great Britain would require,
it
occurred to
me
that the useless parts of the tree might be ad-
VOL. n-
Y
MEMOIRS OF
322
vantageously employed as fuel in the other part of
my
plan,
which was the conversion of
the white wine of the country into brandy.
The whole seemed so were
all
success.
project
hung so
feasible in all
well together, and
its
extremely sanguine about
But the
trees,
we
details, that
entire
its
with every external
evi-
dence of freshness and vigour, were found after
numerous
trials
number of
to be, with a small proportional
two
exceptions, not exceeding
three per cent., unsound at the core.
The
or
great
limbs of the tree were in general healthy and
much
sound, and I have reason to believe that
valuable timber might be found in the forest, well suited to supply that desideratum in ship-
building which naval architects distinguish
the
name
of knees, and for which an inferior
and more expensive substitute of iron lieve,
by
is,
I be-
sometimes employed in the dock-yards of
several nations of Europe.
After cutting down
many hundreds
finest-looking trees in the forest,
I
of the
had the
mortification to find that I could not conscien tiously report to the
Lords of the Admiralty
SIR
measure would be beneficial to the
that the British
323
JAMES CAMPBELL.
Government; and the
result was, that I
incurred a very considerable expense in experi-
menting on both branches of a scheme which
The
con-
arrived, I of course
com-
did not ultimately prove successful. clusion at
which
I
had
municated to the Ambassador
and
to the
Government
at
at
home
;
Wirtemberg, but it has not
me any remu-
been found necessary to afford
neration for the expense I incurred in this national undertaking.
From rhue,
town of
the recent rise of the
it is
of course erected in the modern taste,
with wide
streets,
parallel lines
pavement
and right
for pedestrians,
angles.
It is celebrated
for its manufactures of various kinds, ticularly for that of carriages
I
Carls-
bought a
and
and par-
for jewellery.
close carriage here of the principal
coach-maker,
who had
never fewer than eighty
in his magazines, ready for sale.
The
price of
that which I bought of him, with crane neck,
trunks, and harness complete for
was only ninety pounds. wards,
when about
two
Three years
horses, after-
to return to England, I sold
Y
2
MEMOIRS OF
324
when yet on
it,
having ever cost
its
first
wheels, and without
me a shilling of repairs,
duction of only twenty pounds from cost
;
and
it
had carried
will
me
its
at a de-
original
be seen in the sequel, that
over
it
many hundred leagues, and
over roads which were not always constructed
on the most approved principles of Mr. Mac-
The jewellery of
adam. over
all
Germany
tory in the
;
Carlsrhue
celebrated
is
and the principal manufac-
town was
so considerable
as
to
employment to upwards of two hundred male and female artizans. The head
afford constant
of the establishment makes an annual tour to the principal towns in Germany, for the sale
all
of his jewels and trinkets.
In the course of the year 1821,
I
was a
good deal annoyed with rheumatism, and was recommended to try the waters of Baden for relief.
The
principal spring
and the natural heat
is
is
a chalybeate,
so great, that
two hours
are necessary to cool the bath to the ordinary
degree of temperature. try
is
The neighbouring coun-
highly picturesque, and the celebrity of
the waters
is
go
great as to attract to
them
Sill
visitors
from
JAMES CAMPBELL.
all
325
the nations of Europe.
The
Duchess-Dowager of Baden, was then resident at the castle, which is Princess
Beauharnais,
singularly situated on a rock of peculiar form,
and had formerly been the
seat of
one of the
tribunals of the Inquisition.
During the season of our the
little
Court of
this
stay at the waters,
Princess was in deep
mourning for the recent death of Bonaparte, and her seclusion was, in consequence, so great as to prevent her
from seeing company.
Her
Highness had had three children, two Princesses
and a Prince
;
but the
latter,
direct line of succession,
who
stood in the
was murdered in
in-
fancy in a mysterious and shocking manner.
A pin and
had been driven into the
his nurse disappearing at
was never more heard
At Baden, on last
child's head,
the same time
of.
this occasion, I
saw for the
time the Prince Eugene Beauharnais, a
young man qualities.
universally admired for his amiable
He
had married a Princess of Ba-
and proved himself worthy of the connection, by the whole of his conduct, as a
varia,
MEMOIRS OF
326
husband and a offered the
father.
same
It
is
situations in
he was
said that
France under the
government which he had previously held under that of Napoleon, but that he de-
restored
clined them, from respect to the
man who, whatever
his faults,
memory
had
of the
at least
been
his greatest benefactor.
He
then retired to Bavaria, where, by the
erection of schools of art
of education, he
and other seminaries
made himself
so very popular
the inhabitants, that the Prince Royal
among
discovered such a jealousy of his influence, that
Prince Eugene had taken the resolution of retiring
from the kingdom with
suite
but the peasantry laying hold of
;
riage,
his family
and
his car-
unharnessed his horses, and with a sort of
friendly violence carried
him back
to
Munich,
where he died of apoplexy a few years ago. When we saw him at Baden, he had become a
good
deal
enbonpoint,
his less active habits,
arising
probably from
but he seemed to be in the
enjoyment of perfect health.
The
known
military talents of Prince
Eugene
to have been of a high order,
are
and the
JAMES CAMPBELL.
327
which was universally entertained
for
SIR respect his
private character,
was followed by a
cor-
responding degree of regret at his untimely death.
The
we saw him*
Prince, at the time
was, like his cousin the Duchess-Dowager, in
deep mourning for the Ex-Emperor, and appeared very unaffectedly to lament the
loss
of
that extraordinary character.
Among
the other visitors at the baths of
Baden, were the King and Queen of Bavaria,
and the Prince Louis de Wirtemberg.
King had the
The
character of being a very worthy
man, and walked about very much
like a farmer,
with the single distinction of a bit of ribbon at his button-hole. The Prince of Wirtemberg engaged so eagerly in the prevalent amuse-
he
not only his
ments of the
place, that
last shilling at
the gaming-table, but his horses,
lost
and every moveable lie possessed. There was also at this period at Baden the
carriages,
La Marechale Raguse. She of La Fitte, the banker, and was
wife of Marmont,
was the
sister
so devoted in her loyalty to the
Emperor Na-
poleon, that she separated from her husband,
MEMOIRS OF
328 calling
him
a traitor
and a monster of
ingrati-
up the capital of France She then went to reside at the
tude, for having given to the Allies.
Court of Bavaria, where she kept a splendid train.
The
fourgon, or carriage, which con-
tained her travelling wardrobe, was so peculiar
and magnificent in
its
construction, as to be an
object of general curiosity.
At Baden
the hour of dinner
table d'hote is daily
crowded with
ranks
from kings and princes
and
you have
if
there,
may
visitors
of
all
downwards; it
the
is
and to say so to the
not be troubled with any
application for payment,
two
The
two.
strangers with you,
custom to carry them waiter, that they
is
which
is
at the
mo-
and sixpence a head, including a bottle of the small white wine of the country, the vin de marquisette, which is certainly derate rate of
shillings
very pleasant to drink.
During
dinner, an ex-
band of music performs in the orchestra, but the Germans in general do not sit so long
cellent
at table as the
French, so that the repast
always concluded by four o'clock.
everywhere celebrated for
its
Germany
is is
vegetables, and,
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
329
for an inland town, the supply of fish at is
tolerably good.
Game
is
Baden
abundant, and the
ordinary viands presented at a good table are
of course not wanting.
At
five o'clock the
assembly-rooms to take their
wards there
is
like
coffee.
much
London and
them overhead.
hote
may
is
Paris,
but not covered
Twice a week there
but
also prepared for supper,
A
is
table
this
you
attend without the previous notice requir-
ed of your intention to appear at dinner. of the visitors, indeed, go a short
town
up
in the style of the
dancing, and every evening cards. d*
After-
a promenade in an area fitted
with shops, pretty arcades of
to the
company proceed
Many
way out
to sup in the open air on craw-fish
of
and
raw Westphalia ham, which are both very good. It is the custom to live very much in the bedroom, as ceive
it
formerly was in Scotland, and to re-
company
there, particularly at breakfast.
Formerly in Scotland, as now on the Continent, the bed-room was much the handsomest apartment in the house.
And
I
remember to
have been present at a great fete which was
MEMOIRS OF
330
given by an aunt of mine in her bed-chamber.
An amusing incident, arising out of this practice, was told
me by
a friend, who, I dare say, will
not be displeased to see pages.
it
recorded in these
General Donadieu, distinguished in the
French army for his bravery and talent, was known to be occasionally the object of a curand our friend having witnessed a tain-lecture ;
scene which would probably lead to some discussion of rather a piquant nature between the
General and Madame, was next morning in waiting to learn the result.
He
was shown into the lady's bedroom, where
the General and his wife, in an elegant disha-
were enjoying themselves over a luxurious It is to breakfast of oysters and white wine. bille,
be observed that one of the two French beds
was unoccupied, and when our friend was hastily retiring from a scene which he thought, had better have been kept sacred from the intruding eye of a stranger, the Gewith
justice,
neral called out to him,
Campbell, et voyez
"
Entrez,
notre felicitee
Capitaine
conjugale
!"
If an English reader shall be disposed to open
his eyes a little this kind, I
wider than usual at a fact of
would strongly recommend
the Horatian
At
331
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
maxim
to
him
of nil admirari.
the end of the bathing-season
we
return-
ed to Carlsrhue, and, for the sake of retirement, hired a house at Baerstaen, a beautiful spot
about four miles distant from the town.
The
and gentry are accustomed to go frequently to Baerstaen to admire the scenery, and the bourgeoise to enjoy, particularly on Sunday
nobility
evening, their favourite amusements of music
and dancing.
It
was
at Baerstaen,
of January, 1822, that born.
We
my
remained at
son
on the 28th
Edward was
this place until the
spring was somewhat advanced, and then pro-
ceeded to Strasbourg, on the banks of the Rhine. Strasbourg is one of the places which 1 would
not recommend as a residence for an English visitor.
The
inhabitants are neither French
nor German, but a sort of hybrid race, partaking neither of the politeness of the French nor the cordiality of the
German
constantly at variance is
character.
They
are
among themselves, which
not a circumstance particularly agreeable to a
MEMOIRS OF
332 stranger.
The
salubrious, if I
inhabitants, or
climate, besides,
so exceedingly
strength,
Being a it is
soft,
flat
looks of the
that the to be
all
The
fortifica-
gradually
town of considerable
frontier
constantly protected
ous garrison of
in the
ground
situated.
is
known
tions themselves are
sinking.
from being
from the marshy miasmata which
midst of which the town is
far
may judge from the
constantly arise from the low
soil
is
by
a numer-
kinds of force, infantry and
and engineers, that add con-
cavalry, artillery
siderably to the gaiety of the beautiful walks,
on the banks of the
called the Mall, or Mael,
Rhine, which are
much
frequented by the inha-
bitants in general.
Many
of the merchants of Strasbourg are ex-
tremely opulent, and of course are able to com-
mand
all sorts
of luxuries.
Strasbourg are sent to
when you send one
all
The famous
parts of
as a present,
the ordinary terms of
civility,
may be accompanied by it
Europe
;
is
and
you may adopt
by praying that
a good digestion.
chief ingredient in the pie
the manner of giving
pies of
goose's liver,
it
The and
that delicious bitter so
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
highly prized by the epicure, volting to ordinary
wretched animal placed before a eat of rice
is
fire,
and milk
somewhat
is
re-
the anus of the
ideas; first
333
sewed up, and being
the poor goose
is
made
to
until it acquires such a liver
complaint as to swell that viscus to the most
immoderate dimensions.
It
then supposed to
is
be in the highest perfection, and
fit
to
become
a component part of one of these celebrated pates,
which are to be had
from two guineas to
There
is
The German
but the French
tator is
ten.
a French as well as a
at Strasbourg.
tions,
at various prices
is
German theatre is
more handsome
better in
its
filled,
propor-
and more highly ornamented. Each specis accommodated with an arm-chair, which
covered with rich green velvet.
The
decora-
tions in general,
and the arabesque paintings by
which the front
is
ornamented, are in very good
taste.
The
cathedral at Strasbourg
Gothic
pile,
distinguished
height of carried
its
spire.
A
a noble
by the extraordinary great manufacture
on in the town in
bead fancy-work.
is
steel
is
ornaments and
MEMOIRS OF
334 After
we had been about
we
Strasbourg
Nancy, the
left it for
Lorraine, so celebrated
for
King of Poland.
Stanislaus
three
months
at
capital of
the residence of
The town
is
very
beautiful, but the nobility are extremely poor,
and
as a residence, I
must say that we found
it
rather dull.
To wards the end ris,
of 1822,
we
returned to Pa-
and some time afterwards took up our
dence at Cressi en Brie, about
from the
capital.
resi-
fifteen leagues
Here we occupied a very
pretty house, and enjoyed the society of the curate
M.
had lived
Bailli,
who had been an emigrant, and
some time
Edinburgh with the present King of France, when Count d'Artois. We found him a very amiable man, and we for
in
were pleased to see how much he enjoyed
his
game at billiards with a brother of Lady Campbell, who was at that time residing with us on a
visit.
When
the season of 1823 had
suffi-
ciently advanced, I resolved to visit the waters
of Bourbon, which were recommended to for the rheumatism, with
be
affected.
which
me
I continued to
JAMES CAMPBELL.
Sill
had the pleasure of a visit from Major Callander and at his suggestion
While
my son, I then
335
there, I
;
executed a deed, in virtue of the powers
conferred
on
me by
marriage,
by which
of
Elizabeth's
Lady
I
his mother's contract of
made an equal distribution
among her
fortune
five
The money had been originally secured over the estate of Lord Dungannon, a near children.
The
relation of the family.
waters of Bourbon
were, as usual, attended ion,
but I had suffered
by many people of fashso extremely from rheu-
matism, that I could not mix society.
much
in general
Lady Campbell having come
the course of the summer,
end of
to Paris at the
we
it,
to
me
in
returned together
and remained there
during the following winter.
At
the close of the season of 1824,
we
took a
country house at Meudon, in the neighbour-
hood of
St.
Cloud, which
by people of
rural, the
with vines and
and
at
much
resorted to
fashion, the aspect of the place
being perfectly
we went
is
houses covered over
rose-trees.
From Meudon
to visit Fontainebleau
the end of the
and Chantilly,
summer returned
to
MEMOIRS OF
336
where we again spent the following winter and spring. Paris,
While
I
had thus been resident in the neigh-
bourhood of the
capital, I learned accidentally,
through the medium of
my
banker, that an
attorney had arrived from Scotland on the subject of the proceedings
tuted against
of the
suit
me
which had been
insti-
in the Scotch Courts, at the
woman
Sassen.
learned that this person, Mr.
Latterly I had
John Gray, who
is,
I believe, a practitioner of the law in the inferior
Courts of Scotland, had been employed ordinary solicitors to conduct
my defence
before the Court of Commissaries,
analogous
by
in
my
some degree,
as I understand, to the Consis-
tory Courts of England; but I have never been able to understand
on
this
what was the
occasion for
special object
Mr. Gray's journey
to
Paris.
Some time view
afterwards I had a casual inter-
at Meurice's
Hotel with another member
of the Gray family, but I have no reason to believe that he was, at that time at least, at
connected with
all
my affairs. The worthy banker
Sill
who had mended
JAMES CAMPBELL.
337
seen the elder Gray, had often recom-
strongly to
it
me
to return immediately
and assume the active superintendence of my own affairs, an advice which I to Scotland,
have only to regret that I did not act upon
uch sooner than
He now
renewed
his
recommendation, with the addition of such
ar-
as
guments
I did.
induced
me
to
make immediate In the
preparations for following his advice.
mean time
from Mr. Gray, the object of which was to dissuade me from the proposed journey but I preferred to pursue I received a letter
;
my
resolution,
I arrived with
took up
my
and
in the
month of June 1825
Lady Campbell
in
London, and
residence in Fludyer-street,
minster, in the neighbourhood of solicitor
Mr. Richardson.
my
West-
worthy
As Lady Campbell
had never been in England, she resolved to leave the two youngest of the children behind her,
bringing only her eldest daughter Louisa
along with us.
We left the little boy with
nurse to whose care he had been entrusted first
brought to Paris.
the
when
She had previously held
the office of second nurse to the infant daugh-
VOL.
II.
Z
MEMOIRS OF
338
Due
ter of the
de Berri
;
and Edward
still
remembers with gratitude the kind attentions of his mamma and papa Parmentier. Our youngest daughter was
left in
Lady Campbell and I should when speaking of Rouen, that we
personal friend of
have added,
the care of a ;
had been induced to leave Jemima Campbell, the daughter of the of
Madame
Sassen, in the care
Forestier, a very respectable person
of that city, from tence, she
woman
whom, under some
was soon afterwards
by her mother.
false pre-
spirited
away
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
CHAPTER
339
XIV.
Repair to Portsmouth. Appeal from the Scottish Courts. Summer Residence Conduct of Major Callander.
General Lyon. on the Station.
Colonel and Miss Arnot
Launch of the Royal
Naval Officers
Charlotte.
Captain Ludicrous Asso-
ciations
His character arid family. A Frenchman. Anecdotes.
Choiseul
Return to Town.
Campbell.
to the
House
BY
this
New
Scotch proceedings. in
time
de
Legal delay. Application Letter of Lord Gifford Judg-
of Lords.
ment pronounced. Mr. Gray. Arrive
Madame
Edinburgh.
the
Claim.
Conclusion.
appeal
which
I
had
brought from the judgments of the courts in Scotland, was expected to sion in the
come on
House of Lords, and
I
for discus-
was induced
on that account to remain for some time in town.
At
length,
when
I
was released from
by the prorogation of Parwas recommended by my medical
farther attendance
liament, I
attendants to go somewhere to the coast for
VOL,
II.
Z 2
MEMOIRS OF
340
the benefit of sea-bathing; and having heard that I could enjoy the bath in perfection at
Portsmouth, with
the
advantage
of
agree-
go there, and found the summer months a very pleasant
able society, I resolved to for
it
residence.
While yet
London we had
in
of a visit from
my
having heard that
the pleasure
son Major Callander, who,
agents in Edinburgh had
my
to
upon my rents at quarter-day be dishonoured, was good enough to come
to
me
caused
I
my
drafts
with the
offer of
being
my
banker until
could ascertain the cause of this unexplained
proceeding on the part of the persons entrusted
with the levying of it
my
was very agreeable to
relation General
Lyon
me
in the
troops at that station.
His
Lyon of the grenadiers of who was killed at Bunker's
my
intimate friend.
At Portsmouth
rents.
to find
my
tommand father,
near
of the
Captain
the 35th regiment, Hill,
had long been
In Colonel Arnot of the
Engineers, and Miss Arnot his other agreeable acquaintances.
sister,
we had
Although Miss
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
341
Arnot had resided the greater part of her life near to
London
as
Portsmouth, she had, strange
to say, never yet been in town, telligence
summer
we
so
but the
first in-
heard of her on our arrival next
in Scotland
was dated from Rome.
We met with the greatest attention naval officers on the station,
from the
who were
uni-
formly polite and gallant, giving us a variety of fetes
to
on ship-board.
mention the
In particular, I
officers
of the
Lord
am bound Melville,
and the Victory, which at that time carried the Admiral's flag, and which is immortalized in the annals of the navy, as having been the scene of the last victory and the death of the hero of
the Nile.
During our
stay at Portsmouth,
we witnessed
the launch of the Royal Charlotte, which
is
con-
structed with a round stern, according to the
new and
scientific
principles
of
Seppings, and carries 130 guns.
Sir
She
Robert is,
per-
haps, the finest as well as the largest ship in the
world.
Among
the gentlemen of the
Navy
whose acquaintance we had the pleasure of making at Portsmouth was Captain Campbell,
MEMOIRS OF
342
whose name has already been mentioned nection with
who
is
better
by the
title
in con-
of General Donadieu, and
that
known
in the
West
of Glencleugh, the
of Scotland
name
In the navy, he
place in Ayrshire.
ably distinguished as a gallant
is
of his
honour-
and in
officer,
private life as the father of a fine family and a
most amiable man.
One and
of his sons was about to enter the army,
another
church, under the highest
the
and of the whole family I may say with truth that I never saw children better
auspices
;
brought up.
With
a
pride which leads a to
which he can have
good deal of that
man
sort of
into the best society
access,
Captain Campbell
has a peculiar vein of humour, which some-
times leads to very ludicrous associations. a table d'hote at Rouen, a French officer
At
made
a tolerable guess at Captain Campbell's profession, in
consequence of observing that he eat
manner than the Frenchman
in a less leisurely
was accustomed Sir, if
to.
May
to the
you belong
Captain Campbell
"
;
I
presume to
navy?"
"
ask,
No," said
" a physician, in haste to see
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
my
Soda-water was one of the no-
patients."
velties introduced
by the English
A
at the time of the peace.
verage
;
into France
Frenchman, who
knowledge of chemistry, was
affected a great
know
curious to
343
the composition of the be-
and Captain Campbell, carrying him
into an apothecary's shop, administered
due proportion of the
first
a
and afterwards a
alcali,
corresponding quantity of the acid, allowing the
two elements
to
combine and effervesce in
the agitated stomach
of the too inquisitive
Frenchman.
Another jokes at
on
Dover.
of
Captain
French
our
A
Campbell's
practical
neighbours
occurred
friend of his
who had never
been in England, arrived with
him
in
the
packet, and to try the extent of his credulity,
he carried him to one of the principal hotels, -
under pretence of
its
being a private house
;
and the orderly deportment of the servants, and the air of quietness and respectability which pervaded the whole establishment, compared with the houses
of public
as
enter-
tainment on the other side of the Channel,
left
MEMOIKS OF
344
no other
surmount but the
difficulty to
size of
the house, and the extent of the accommodations.
These, however, the Frenchman did not p
fail
to explain
by a reference
to the exalted idea
he had formed of the superior opulence of the English nation and when the master of the ;
hotel appeared, as
the service of the
not
fail
to
is
customary, to superintend
first
course at dinner, he did
compliment Captain Campbell on
the respectable appearance of his principal domestic.
to
He
carried his friend soon afterwards
Portsmouth to show him the British
fleet
;
but what he did show him was a collection of those splendid trophies which
the immortal
Nelson and his gallant brethren in arms have
added
to
the
wooden bulwarks
of
Great
Britain.
Of a
of the piece with the mortified feelings
Frenchman were those of Madame de the celebrated Royalist, tiating to Captain
Choiseul,
who had been
expa-
Campbell on her devotion to
the house of Bourbon.
In his turn, the Captain,
with corresponding sentiments of loyalty, pronounced an animated eulogium on his present
JAMES CAMPBELL.
SIR
345
Majesty, at that time the Prince Regent, in
which, with true French politeness, the Coun"
tess readily acquiesced.
Then," said Captain
Campbell, pulling out a handsome snuff-box, on
which there was a bear me, Prince."
portrait,
" for the love
salute the miniature
The
you
of so great a
Countess, on the impulse of the
moment, applied the papier mache to her lips. " But look what you have done !" rejoined Captain
Campbell
:
" It
is
the portrait of the
usurper Napoleon which your Ladyship has
Whether
in
resentment
for such a trial of her feelings, or
from mere
condescended to kiss
gaiete de cceur,
it is
!"
not necessary to inquire
the unfortunate portrait was immediately con-
signed to the flames, and the Captain found
himself a
snuff-box
out of
pocket by the
joke.
At
the approach of winter
we
returned from
Portsmouth to London, resolving
to wait with
a reasonable portion of patience for the expect-
ed judgment of the House of Lords.
Begin-
ning at length to fear that the Session of Parliament was to pass without a decision, I men-
MEMOIRS OF
346
tioned to Mr. Richardson, that I thought of addressing a letter to the
Lord
Chancellor, to
represent the hardship I suffered
by
delay.
The
worthy solicitor was petrified at the proposal, and endeavoured to dissuade me from so dangerous an expedient by
all
the terrors of a con-
tempt of the House. But having taken my resolution, I was not afraid of being seduced into the employment of any language which could
be regarded
as disrespectful.
I
ble
Lord who
the
Upper House of Parliament
assured the no-
at that time acted as
Speaker of
in the hearing
of Scotch appeals, that I was deeply impressed
with the conviction that I should ultimately obtain a just and equitable
But
court of last resort.
adding, that
if
my
in this world,
in the
I took the liberty of
the Session was permitted to
elapse without a decision, it
pected at
judgment
time of
life
and that
it
was not to be ex-
that I could hear of
it
would be rather a long
journey for the messengers of the House to
communicate
it
from whence no I addressed to
after I
had passed " that bourne
traveller returns."
This letter
Lord Gifford about the middle
SIR
of
May
JAMES CAMPBELL.
347
1826, and soon afterwards his Lordship
was pleased to move the following judgment.
"Die " It
is
Martis, 23
declared
Temporal
by the Lords
in Parliament
Respondent having riage, is
Man, 1826. Spiritual
and
assembled, That the
failed to establish her
mar-
not entitled, under either of the sum-
monses, to recover aliment or damages against the Appellant.
And
with
this declaration, it is
ordered and adjudged, that the several Interlocutors of the Commissaries in Scotland, of the
Lords Ordinary in Scotland, and of the Court of Session in Scotland, so far as they are complained of in the said appeal, and so far as they are inconsistent with this declaration, be,
the same are hereby reversed
:
And
it is
and
further
ordered that the cause be remitted back to the
Court of Session in Scotland, to proceed further therein, as
and
is
consistent with this
declaration,
as is just."
During
my
residence in
repeatedly counselled
London, I had been
by Mr. Gray, the Scotch
attorney, not to proceed to Scotland, in conse-
quence, as I understood, of a
new proceeding
MEMOIRS OF
348
which had been taken against
in the
name
woman.
This new claim was
fact of her
having carried away
of this unhappy
founded on the
me
her daughter from Rouen, and having deprived her of the advantages of education which I had
designed for her under the care of
Madame
She pretended to have a right to a and having large sum for the child's support instituted an action for the purpose of deterForestier.
;
mining the merits of the claim, it was represented by Mr. Gray that my defence would be
more advantageously conducted turn to Scotland.
if I
did not re-
Reflecting, however, on the
repeated cautions I had received from
my bank-
ers in Paris, I resolved at all hazards to carry
my
former intention into
effect,
and, having
taken our passage on board a steam -packet,
we
soon found ourselves in Edinburgh.
After
we had
fixed ourselves in furnished
lodgings in Princes-street, herself
unhappy at
Lady Campbell felt the great distance which now
intervened between us and our younger chil-
them
dren.
She determined on going
person,
and she made such good use of her time
for
in
SIR
JAMES CAMPBELL.
that she was again in
Edinburgh
from her departure. its
inhabitants were
much
less
in eleven
days
Although Scotland and
now
almost as
as to the rest of the family, after
not
349
new
to
me
an absence of
than thirty years, yet, having
found Edinburgh in many respects a very
desi-
rable residence, particularly as respected the edu-
cation of the children,
we
resolved to
our permanent abode.
THE END.
VOL.
II.
Z 7
make
it
ERRATA. VOL. I. "
" connu." from bottom, for corame," read " 15th " 13th Hussars," read Page 293, line 13 from bottom, for Light
Page 274,
line 12
Dragoons."
LONDON PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEY, :
Dorset-street, Fleet-street.