HOW TO MAKE REAL ITALIAN PIZZA: The First Exact 6 Steps Method to Easily Make the Authentic Neapolitan Pizza at Home, Even With your Regular Oven. Super-Reliable Dough Leavening Method + Baking Tricks 9798572236217

Citation preview

How to Make Real

ITALIAN PIZZA The First Exact 6 Steps Method to Easily Make the Authentic Neapolitan Pizza at Home, Even With your Regular Oven. Super-Reliable Dough Leavening Method + Baking Tricks

by Claudia Fiore

Copyright © 2020 Claudia Fiore [email protected] [email protected] All rights reserved. ISBN: 9798572236217

DEDICATION To all those who believed in my “crazy projects” and, first of all, in SfidaPizza.it. I also dedicate this book to you who are reading it right now. I put on paper everything I learned, with seriousness and authentic passion, thinking of people like you, who constantly look for improvement, both in big and small things.

CONTENTS Module 1: Utensils And Ingredients............................................................7 Module 2: The Dough Secrets....................................................................33 Module 3: The Leavening Process..............................................................51 Module 4: The Topping...............................................................................67 Module 5: How to Stretch the Dough.........................................................85 Module 6: How to Cook Pizza - The Dual-Phase Cooking Method.............97 Free Module: Claudia’s Tips!....................................................................113 Flour Guide: Correct Flour is magical.......................................................123

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vi

MODULE 1 UTENSILS AND INGREDIENTS Hi! I’m Claudia! First of all, a very warm WELCOME!!! You are about to start the course that will let you be terribly loved, hated and/or envied by all your friends and relatives! Once you will learn my process, in fact, you will be looked at as the expert pizza maker. YOU’RE READY!? LET’S GO!!!

Please Note: This is the first of 6 chapters, which I call "modules". At the beginning of each module you will find a detailed index of the topics covered, in order to facilitate you consult them while you are at work in the kitchen. Enjoy the reading!

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MODULE 1 - INDEX 1. WHAT WILL BE NEEDED BEFORE STARTING ............................................. 9 ✓

UTENSILS........................................................................................... 9

✓

INGREDIENTS .................................................................................. 15

✓

TIME AND A PINCH OF PATIENCE ................................................... 18

2. HOW TO ORGANIZE YOUR TIME ............................................................ 19 SUMMARY .................................................................................................. 24 ADDENDUM ................................................................................................ 27 ✓

HOW TO MEASURE FRESH YEAST WITHOUT A DIGITAL SCALE ...... 27

✓

HOW TO MEASURE FRESH YEAST WITH A DIGITAL SCALE ............. 28

✓

HOW TO USE DRY YEAST ................................................................ 28

8

Module 1: Utensils and Ingredients

I’m guessing that you might have some questions. So, why don’t we start with the first two that come to mind? 1. What will be needed before starting the pizza making process? 2. How should you organize yourself for leavening the dough?

1. WHAT WILL BE NEEDED BEFORE STARTING THE PIZZA MAKING PROCESS? In order to make your authentic Neapolitan pizza, you’ll need the following: ✓

UTENSILS

Fig. 1.1: Tools necessary in the kneading and cooking process: a bowl for kneading, plastic wrap, triangular cake-server (or a fork,) oven mittens, round baking-pan, extra baking-pan to use as a support in the oven, infrared thermometer, digital scale, triangular spatula, rectangular pan to hold dough-balls while leavening.

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To knead: 

2 liter (1/2 gal) bowl. This bowl will be used to mix flour, water, salt and yeast, in the very first step of the process.



A flat, smooth and clean working area made of wood, or other type of pastry surface board. This board will be necessary to continue working the dough.

To weigh the ingredients: 

A digital measuring scale. Since it will be necessary to weigh small amounts of yeast, it’s preferable to have a scale which is sensitive to + or – 1 gram. However I’ll explain to you an ad-hoc approach in measuring the right amount of yeast. See the Addendum at the end of this module.

To handle the dough-balls: 

A stainless-steel triangular spatula, with a width of 12 cm (approx. 5’’) You can easily buy it on line, in specialty stores or in any hardware store (make sure it’s made of stainless steel).

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Module 1: Utensils and Ingredients

For the leavening process: 

Two rectangular pans 35 cm x 25 cm x 5 cm (approx. 14’’ x 10’’ x 2’’). Actually, in pizzeria shops, in order to proof and store the doughballs, they use rectangular pizza-dough boxes with lids (also called “dough trays”.)

Fig. 1.2: Examples of plastic and wooden pizza-dough boxes (trays).

As an alternative, the dough

boxes

shown

above can be replaced by using an ordinary rectangular

pan

and

plastic wrap as a lid, this will

preserve

the

moisture in the dough.

Fig. 1.3: Two dough-balls per tray.

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At times, the dough-balls once leavened might come in contact with one another, making it difficult to remove them from the pan. For this reason, I suggest to put only 2 dough-balls per tray, as shown in the figure 1.3. 

Plastic wrap. Your ordinary kitchen plastic wrap.



Infrared thermometer. Since the temperature in your kitchen will affect a lot the leavening time, you must be able to measure it. My advice is to buy an infrared

thermometer,

which during the baking process will be mandatory to measure the optimum cooking temperature of the pan, but it can also be used to measure the room

Fig. 1.4: Infrared thermometer.

temperature. It should be able to measure temperatures up to 380°C (716°F). Please Note: Make sure to follow manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure NOT to point it at eyes, persons and/or pets, and keep away from children.

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Module 1: Utensils and Ingredients

For the cooking process: 

A non-stick pizza pan of 32 cm (approx. 13’’) in diameter. Yes, just one. Are you surprised? You see, you’ll be baking one pizza at a time.



An electric or gas oven with a properly internal working top-grill.



A triangular cake-server or a fork.



A pair of oven-mittens.



(If needed,) an extra baking-pan, made of stainless steel. We will need our baking-pan to be close to the heating element of the oven, by at least 4 cm (approx. 1 ½’’). [See the photo in the next page]. So, place an oven-rack on the highest slot underneath the top-grill, and measure the distance between the rack and the heating element. If this distance is more than 4 cm (approx. 1 ½’’) then take an empty stainless-steel baking-pan and overturn it on the oven-rack. In this way it will act as a support to raise the round pizza-pan, bringing it closer to the top-grill. Clearly each oven is different, but usually a pan between 3 and 5 cm (approx. 1 ¼’’ to 2’’) in height should work well. Finally, make sure there is enough space to easily insert and pull out the pizza-pan.

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Turned on top-grill

Distance  4 cm

Round baking-pan Overturned bakingpan used as support

Fig. 1.5: Photo showing the overturned baking-pan, used as support in the oven.

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Module 1: Utensils and Ingredients

✓

INGREDIENTS Depending on the number of pizzas you want to make, see the chart below, and you’ll be able to establish the amounts and quantities of the ingredients needed. Make sure you have everything on hand, nearby.

Fig. 1.6: Ingredients for dough: water, flour, fresh yeast (also called “cake yeast” or “compressed yeast”) and salt.

Ingredients Flour Water Fresh yeast Salt

DOUGH RECIPE 3 Pizzas 4 Pizzas 425 g (15 oz) 570 g (20 oz) 250 g (8 ¾ oz) 335 g (11 ¾ oz) 1/4 g (a pinch) 1/3 g (a pinch) 13 g (7/16 oz) 17 g (5/8 oz)

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If you are wondering, “how am I supposed to weigh 1/4 or 1/3 of gram of fresh yeast??” Don’t worry! You’ll find a section dedicated on this subject in the Addendum (p. 27). PLEASE NOTE: In some countries, fresh yeast cubes can’t be found as easily as here in Italy. In this case ask for it in your local bakery or pizza shop. They purchase it in bulk and often sell small amounts to local clients for a minimal cost. But if you still can’t find it, do not worry. Read the Addendum on how to use dry yeast (p. 28). The following tables summarize the quantities needed to top 3 or 4 pizzas, in order to make “Margherita” or “Marinara”. Surprised that these are the only real traditional Neapolitan toppings? …Well, it’s true!

Ingredients: Tomato Mozzarella or Fior di latte Salt Extra Virgin Olive Oil Basil

MARGHERITA For 3 pizzas For 4 pizzas 400 gr. (14 oz) 500 gr. (18 oz) 400 gr. (14 oz) 500 gr. (18 oz) To taste To taste To taste To taste To taste To taste

Ingredients: Tomato Salt Extra Virgin Olive Oil Garlic Oregano

MARINARA For 3 pizzas For 4 pizzas 400 gr. (14 oz) 500 gr. (18 oz) To taste To taste To taste To taste 3 cloves 4 cloves To taste To taste

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Module 1: Utensils and Ingredients

COMMON QUESTIONS: • SEA SALT OR ROCK SALT? The AVPN (Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana) recommends sea salt and so do I. • TAP WATER OR BOTTLED WATER? Assuming that the tap water in your area is absolutely clean, odorless and colorless, this will be a perfect water to make pizza. It should have a medium hardness and a pH between 6 and 7. If the tap water in your area has different characteristics, or you are in doubt, it will be better to use flat bottled water or spring water. (Make sure not to use sparkling water.) PLEASE NOTE: tap water is usually treated with chlorine. A disinfectant that is clearly not good for yeast. This however is a non-problem. Chlorine evaporates. So, if you use tap water it’s always a good habit to decanter it into a container for a couple of hours before making the pizza, so that the chlorine has time to evaporate.

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• SHOULD WATER BE REFRIGERETED? There are many theories about what the “best” water temperature should be. As to my experience, it is not that necessary to be so rigorous in measuring the water temperature. In winter I use water at room temperature

5°C

or cold from tap, while in summer I use water from the fridge. In any case, the water temperature should not be lower than 5°C (41°F).

✓

TIME AND A PINCH OF PATIENCE Making pizza is a real passion, so you must dedicate time to it. This doesn’t mean that you have to be stuck in the kitchen the whole day, but simply that you need to have the necessary time to keep an eye on the entire process. As for “patience”, you will need some. It could be a bit of a CHALLENGE! But the results will be worthwhile!

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Module 1: Utensils and Ingredients

 Ok, you now have everything: utensils, ingredients and time.

2. HOW TO ORGANIZE YOUR TIME The entire process for the dough to leaven, can last as much as 24 hours. But, actually, you will dedicate approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes to it. Let me show you how, by briefly explaining the whole process. We can break down the pizza-making process into 3 phases: 1. The first phase, consists of mixing the ingredients (water, flour, yeast and salt) and then kneading it into dough. The actual time for this is less than 30 minutes. After that, the dough will rest peacefully in the bowl all by itself, between 2 and 13 hours, depending on the room temperature. 2. The second phase, is to section off and shape this bulk-dough into dough-balls, and this will take no more than 10 minutes. Then you will let the dough-balls rest again peacefully in a rectangular pan for an additional leavening period (that will vary from 6 to 11 hours, always depending on room temperature.) 3. The third phase consists of 3 steps: 3.a) Having the toppings readily available to be used to dress your pizza-bases. (To chop, slice or dice the ingredients will take you less than 10 minutes). 19

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3.b) Stretching the dough-balls into what will become your pizzabases. (This will take you approximately 1-2 minutes per pizza.) 3.c)

Cooking the pizzas. This will only take about 4 minutes for each pizza.

Module 2

Module 3

Module 4 Module 5 Module 6 Fig. 1.7: Pizza making process: time required for each phase and the respective reference modules.

In the following table I have summarized the approximate total leavening hours needed, based on the room temperature, and the procedures to follow in the pizza-making process.

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Module 1: Utensils and Ingredients

PLEASE NOTE: I’m basing this on you using a medium strength flour (260280 W) and that you’ll be having dinner approximately around 7 PM.

Table 1.1: Total leavening hours and procedures of the pizza-making process, according to the room temperatures.

Room Temperature

Total Leavening hours

1st Phase Starting time

2nd Phase 3rd Phase Dough-balls Starting time Shaping time

16°C – 19°C (61°F – 67°F)

24 h

6:00 p.m. day before

08:00 a.m.

06:30 p.m.

20°C – 22°C (68°F – 72°F)

20 h

10:00 p.m. day before

09:00 a.m.

06:30 p.m.

23°C – 24°C (73°F – 76°F)

10 h

8:00 a.m.

11:00 a.m.

06:30 p.m.

25°C – 26°C (77°F – 79°F)

8h

10:00 a.m.

1:00 p.m.

06:30 p.m.

27°C– 28°C (80°F – 82°F)

2 h (in fridge) +8h (room temp.)

08:00 a.m.

11:00 a.m.

06:30 p.m.

I would like to go into more details explaining Table 1.1: •

If the room-temperature is between 16°C and 19°C (61°F – 67°F), you’ll adopt a 24-hours leavening process. So you should: 1. Start kneading the day before, around 6:00 PM. (This will take around 30 minutes.) 2. Shape the dough balls the day after, around 08:00 AM. 3. Start the 3rd phase (by preparing the toppings) around 06:30 PM.

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•

If the room-temperature is about 20°C - 22°C (68°F - 72°F), you’ll adopt a 20-hours leavening process, then you should: 1. Start kneading the night before, around 10:00 PM. 2. Shape the dough balls the day after, around 09:00 AM. 3. Start the 3rd phase (whose first step is to prepare the toppings) around 06:30 PM.

•

If the room-temperature is between 23°C - 24°C (73°F - 76°F), you’ll adopt a 10-hours leavening process, then you should: 1. Start kneading in the morning, around 8:00 AM. 2. Shape the dough balls around 11:00 AM. 3. Start the 3rd phase (whose first step is to prepare the toppings) around 06:30 PM.

•

For room-temperatures close to 25°C (77°F - 79°F,) just 8 hours of leavening will suffice. This means you should: 1. Start kneading at 10:00 AM 2. Shape the dough balls around 1:00 PM. 3. Start the 3rd phase (whose first step is to prepare the toppings) around 06:30 PM.

•

For room-temperatures between 27°C and 28°C (80°F – 82°F), you should:

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Module 1: Utensils and Ingredients

1. Start kneading at 08:00 AM (but in this case, use the fridge for the first 2 hours). 2. Shape the dough balls around 11:00 AM (let them rise at room temperature). 3. Start the 3rd phase around 06:30 PM.

The very first time I made pizza, I made sure I had some extra time to spare, so I could do it with ease and not be under pressure. Don’t forget, this is a process.

So, in order to start making that great pizza you were looking for, it’s time for you to shop for the ingredients and utensils (if you have not done yet.) To facilitate all this, read the upcoming SUMMARY.

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SUMMARY ✓

WHAT IS NEEDED BEFORE STARTING  Time and a pinch of patience.

UTENSILS  2 liters (1/2 gallon) mixing bowl.  A wooden pastry board and/or a smooth and clean countertop.  A digital scale  A triangular spatula.  Two 35 cm x 25 cm x 5 cm (14’’ x 10’’ x 2’’) rectangular pans (or a pizza dough box.)  Plastic wrap  Infrared thermometer (able to measure temperatures up to 380°C or 716°F.)  A round non-stick pizza pan, 32 cm (13’’) in diameter.  An electric or gas oven with a functioning top-grill.  A triangular cake server or a fork.  A pair of oven-mittens.  An extra empty-baking-pan, made of stainless steel, (which will be overturned in the oven, if necessary, as support to the round cooking-pan.)

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Module 1: Utensils and Ingredients

INGREDIENTS DOUGH RECIPE Ingredients Flour Water Fresh yeast Salt

3 Pizzas 425 g (15 oz) 250 g (8 ¾ oz) 1/4 g (a pinch) 13 g (7/16 oz)

TOPPING Ingredients: Tomato Mozzarella or Fior di latte Salt Extra Virgin Olive Oil Basil TOPPING Ingredients: Tomato Salt Extra Virgin Olive Oil Garlic Oregano

✓

4 Pizzas 570 g (20 oz) 335 g (11 ¾ oz) 1/3 g (a pinch) 17 g (5/8 oz)

MARGHERITA For 3 pizzas For 4 pizzas 400 gr. (14 oz) 500 gr. (18 oz) 400 gr. (14 oz) 500 gr. (18 oz) To taste To taste To taste To taste To taste To taste MARINARA For 3 pizzas

For 4 pizzas

400 gr. (14 oz) To taste To taste 3 cloves To taste

500 gr. (18 oz) To taste To taste 4 cloves To taste

HOW TO ORGANIZE YOUR TIME?

Leavening time depends on the room temperature and the flour you’ll be using. I suggest a medium strength flour (260-280 W.) The suggested starting times are based on the assumption that you’ll be having dinner approximately around 7 PM.

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Room Temperature

Total Leavening hours

1st Phase Starting time

16°C – 19°C (61°F – 67°F)

24 h

6:00 p.m. day before

08:00 a.m.

06:30 p.m.

20°C – 22°C (68°F – 72°F)

20 h

10:00 p.m. day before

09:00 a.m.

06:30 p.m.

23°C – 24°C (73°F – 76°F)

10 h

8:00 a.m.

11:00 a.m.

06:30 p.m.

25°C – 26°C (77°F – 79°F)

8h

10:00 a.m.

1:00 p.m.

06:30 p.m.

27°C– 28°C (80°F – 82°F)

2 h (in fridge) +8h (room temp.)

08:00 a.m.

11:00 a.m.

06:30 p.m.

I wish you good shopping!

26

2nd Phase 3rd Phase Dough-balls Starting time Shaping time

Module 1: Utensils and Ingredients

ADDENDUM ✓

HOW TO MEASURE FRESH YEAST WITHOUT A DIGITAL SCALE

The photo below shows a 25-gr. fresh yeast cube. This is the typical size available in Italy, but you can easily adapt the following method to any size package available in your country. Note: This procedure is also shown in a video available on YouTube at my channel. Please Google “How to get the right amount of fresh yeast in making the authentic Neapolitan pizza”, or digit the following URL: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltPG-iSV8JQ

Fig. 1.8: A 25 gr. cube of fresh yeast, sectioned to obtain the necessary amount for 4 pizzas.

We want to obtain a 1-gr. portion, which later will be subdivided once again to obtain the right quantity to make 3 or 4 pizzas.

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1. First divide the 25-gr. cube into 5 equal parts. (This way you’ll obtain portions of approximately 5-gr. each). 2. Take one of those parts and subdivide it further into 5 equal portions. 3. In this way we have obtained portions of approximately 1 gram each. (I suggest you gather it up into a “mini-cube”). 4. Now take one of these 1-gr. portions and further subdivide it according to your needs. •

For a 3 pizzas recipe, divide the “1-gr. mini-cube” into 4 parts, BUT use only 1 of these parts.

•

For a 4 pizzas recipe, divide the “1-gr. mini-cube” into 3 parts, BUT use only 1 of them.

PLEASE NOTE: Do not worry if the parts are not perfectly equal. It creates only a slight variation in the leavening process

✓

HOW TO MEASURE FRESH YEAST WITH A DIGITAL SCALE

Measure the “1-gr. mini-cube” portion with the scale and then subdivide it according to your needs (for 3 or 4 pizza recipe) by using the previous approach.

✓

HOW TO USE DRY YEAST

My preference is to use fresh yeast to make Neapolitan pizza. But dry yeast is just as good. However, then you must follow the next 7 steps. 28

Module 1: Utensils and Ingredients

Note: The following procedure is also shown in a video available on YouTube in the original version. Please Google “La giusta quantità di lievito disidratato nella pizza napoletana”, or digit the following URL: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3cQ6ieJ5sfE 1. Weigh 1-gr. of dry yeast. 2. In a shot-glass, pour 30-gr. of lukewarm water (weight the content on the digital scale.) The water should be between 30° and 40°C (86° and 104°F). And now add the dry yeast. 3. In addition, add half a teaspoon of sugar to re-activate the yeast. Stir this solution with a teaspoon in order to get an evenly diluted mixture.

1

2

2

3 3 29

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4. Cover the shot-glass with a saucer or a kitchen towel (the yeast reactivates better in the dark.) 5. After about 20 minutes it should foam on the surface. This means the yeast has been reactivated and ready to be used. (If there is no foam in 30 minutes, it means that the yeast has expired, so you must try with another packet of yeast.) 6. In a bowl, pour the water specified in my recipe.

5

4

6 7. If you are following the recipe for 3 pizzas, take only 2-gr. (approx. 1 ¼ teaspoon) of the solution from the shot-glass. 30

Module 1: Utensils and Ingredients

If you’re following the recipe for 4 pizzas, take 3-gr. (approx. 2 teaspoons) of the solution from the shot-glass. 8. Add this quantity to the water in the bowl. (Any excess solution remaining in the shot-glass can be thrown away.)

8

7

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Learn more about pizza flour! Insisting on using the inappropriate type of flour when making Italian pizza will not give you the results we’re looking for. I will explain how to choose the correct flour in an easy, brief guide: "Correct Flour is Magical!" I usually let people download it for free on my website: sfidapizza.com (which is the English version of my Italian blog,) but you can find it at the end of this book too. Go to page 123 and find out which flours to be used for that perfect pizza dough

32

MODULE 2 THE DOUGH SECRETS

It's time to get going, are you ready?? Here are three secrets I want to share with you in order to make a perfect Neapolitan pizza dough!

THE 3 SECRETS What are these three hidden secrets behind Neapolitan pizza dough? 1. The order in which you mix the ingredients. 2. The method you’ll be working the dough. 3. And knowing when to stop kneading. Let’s look in detail one “secret” at a time.

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MODULE 2 - INDEX 1.

THE ORDER TO BE FOLLOWED IN MIXING THE INGREDIENTS ....... 35

2.

THE WORKING OF YOUR DOUGH ................................................... 40 STEP 1: THE MIXING PROCESS ............................................................ 41 STEP 2: THE KNEADING PROCESS ....................................................... 42

3.

•

1ST METHOD (LAP AND FOLD) ................................................. 42

•

2ND METHOD (STRETCH AND FOLD)........................................ 43

HOW TO KNOW WHEN TO STOP KNEADING. ................................ 45

SUMMARY .................................................................................................. 48 ADDENDUM ................................................................................................ 50 ✓

WHEN USING DRY YEAST (ONLY):................................................... 50

34

Module 2: The dough secrets

1.

THE ORDER TO BE FOLLOWED IN MIXING THE INGREDIENTS The method to prepare pizza dough, according to the Regulation of the Neapolitan pizza TSG (Traditional Specialty Guaranteed,) recommends that the ingredients should be added in the following order. PLEASE NOTE: The following 4 steps are specifically recommended when using fresh yeast. However, if you chose to use dry yeast, please, see the Addendum (p. 50). Here is the order:

A) ADDING SALT TO THE WATER Into the bowl pour the amount of water specified in my recipe (in the prior Module 1), then add and dissolve the salt in the water, stirring it with your hand or a spoon.

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TO KNOW MORE: WHY IS THE SALT ADDED AS THE FIRST INGREDIENT? The Regulation states that you should dissolve the salt in the water at the beginning of the process. The benefits for doing this are: 1. It assures that the salt will be evenly distributed in the dough. 2. It allows greater hydration of the dough (it retains more moisture.) Adding the salt at the very beginning of the process will give you a finer texture allowing you to use less flour (this will give you a softer outer-crust.) OTHER BENEFITS THE SALT WILL GIVE TO YOUR DOUGH: •

It slightly acts as a disinfectant on the yeasts and on the natural bacteria. Therefore, it slows down the leavening process and prevents a possible rapid souring of the dough.

•

It helps to strengthen the gluten network. A dough without salt would be sticky and without volume.

•

It normalizes the production of carbon dioxide, ensuring small and regular air-bubbles in the dough.

•

It provides a golden color to the outer-crust.

36

Module 2: The dough secrets

B) ADD 10% OF THE FLOUR SPECIFIED IN THE RECIPE Once salt is well dissolved in the water, add to it, 10% of the flour specified in my recipe. Example: If you are following the recipe to make 3 pizzas add 43 grams of flour (3 Tablespoons.) If you are following the recipe to make 4 pizzas add 57 grams (4 Tablespoons.) By mixing these ingredients you will obtain a homogeneous, liquid mixture.

C) DISSOLVING THE FRESH YEAST Take the amount (I suggested) of fresh yeast, immerse it in the mixture and dissolve it by rubbing it between your thumb and forefinger. The two reasons why this becomes the perfect moment to add the fresh yeast are: •

The

mixture

is

liquid

enough to ensure that the yeast

will

be

evenly

distributed. 37

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•

By having added 10% of flour, the fresh yeast will not be "killed" by the salt. Hence, if you dissolve the yeast directly into the water, even though it would be evenly distributed, once it comes in direct contact with the salt, it would most likely be killed.

MOST COMMON QUESTIONS about yeast WHY DO SOME PEOPLE DISSOLVE THE SALT AND THE FRESH YEAST TOGETHER IN WATER? This choice, also practiced by some famous pizza chefs, has the effect of increasing the ability to stretch the dough (thanks to the production of glutathione, a substance that is released when yeast cells are destroyed by the salt.) But in this case a larger amount of yeast will be needed (considering the fact that only a part of the yeast will survive.) SO, WHAT IS THE BEST CHOICE? My advice is to fallow my procedure, step by step. My method already gives you a dough which is stretchable enough.

38

Module 2: The dough secrets

D) ADD THE REMAINING FLOUR Add to the mixture the balance of the flour, little by little to avoid the dough from being too dry (each flour has its own absorption capacity.) When

the

dough

is

pliable/supple enough, you can stop adding the flour. Most likely you will not use the entire amount of flour suggested in the recipe. And in any case, the most you will be saving is a few Tablespoons of flour.

MOST COMMON QUESTIONS about the dough texture BUT WHAT IS MEANT BY “PLIABLE/SUPPLE ENOUGH”? The perfect texture of the dough, that we also call “tactile-doughpoint”, varies from chef to chef. However, in our case, you should stop adding flour once the dough begins to withdraw from the edges of the bowl, remaining slightly humid to the touch. PLEASE NOTE: In the kneading process the dough, initially soft and sticky, will become harder and a bit drier.

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2.

THE WORKING OF YOUR DOUGH There is more than one way to knead. The important thing is to do it in such a way to create what is called the "mechanical leavening." In

other

words,

by

continuously folding and kneading the dough, this will start incorporating air bubbles, as a result creating a porous structure in the dough. These “air bubbles” help in

Fig. 2.1: Highlighted in the photo are air bubbles

the leavening, making the which have incorporated in the dough during the dough

plump-up

and

kneading process.

remain softer. In this working process of the dough, I break it down in two steps: •

Step 1: the mixing part.

•

Step 2: the kneading part. I’ll explain two separate kneading methods.

40

Module 2: The dough secrets

STEP 1: THE MIXING PROCESS Besides the order in which the ingredients are added, it’s also a matter how you handle these ingredients in the kneading process. Here is how: •

In the bowl, with one hand, lap-up some of the mixture from the bottom and fold it, bringing it in your

direction.

Make

these movements at a fast pace. •

Then bring it backwards to the center of the mass to re-incorporate it again in the mixture.

•

Rotate the bowl so the mixture will be entirely incorporated

and

well

blended. •

Repeat these steps until the mixture will become “dough” (it should take about 10 minutes.)

•

From here on in, the kneading process will take place on a flat surface (step 2.)

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STEP 2: THE KNEADING PROCESS •

1st METHOD (Lap and fold)

This method is simply the continuation of the previous phase in the mixing bowl process. However, working the dough from now on must be continued on a flat surface (see the photos below).

To know when it’s time to stop kneading, read the following section dedicated to this: “How to know when to stop kneading.”

42

Module 2: The dough secrets

•

2nd METHOD (Stretch and fold)

After you have mixed the ingredients in the bowl (as above), then continue working the dough on a flat surface. This technique is also called "Stretch and Fold”. I use this method specifically when the mixture is soggy and sticky. 1.

Take the dough-ball by one end, and peel it off the flat surface.

2.

Lift it up at a height of about a foot from the surface.

3.

Then strike the dough by flattening it on the table.

4.

Fold the dough onto itself and close it on all sides. This traps air between the folds.

5.

Repeat the steps several times.

To know when to stop kneading read the section 3, dedicated to this, below.

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To check if the dough is right, divide the mass in half with the spatula. If you can see some air bubbles in the core of the dough achieved results:

then

you

the the

have

wanted mechanical

leavening! (See the photo here on the right) If only a few bubbles are present, don’t despair: the dough will rise in any case. As time goes on you’ll improve this technique.

44

Module 2: The dough secrets

3.

HOW TO KNOW WHEN TO STOP KNEADING. You have 5 parameters to decide when to stop kneading: 1.

The Regulation (for the pizza to be considered Neapolitan) suggests to knead the dough for about 20 minutes.

2.

The “earlobe test”: it sounds kind of strange…I know, but it is serious. Many say that the dough is ready when it feels like the texture of your earlobe: soft but compact. Doing is believing.

3.

The aspect of the dough: you should stop kneading when the dough is: •

supple and soft, but not sticky,

•

smooth and homogenous,

•

resilient and pliable.

Rough dough

Smooth dough

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4.

You can test its pliability by using the "poke test": • Push

the

dough

lightly with the tip of

Poke Test

your index finger. • When the “dimple” (created

by

your

index finger) springs back, it means that the gluten network has been well-formed, and that you have kneaded it for a sufficient amount of time. • On the other hand, if the “dimple” does not rise, it means that you haven’t kneaded it enough.

5.

Look whether the gluten fibers have been well-formed. How do we do that? Grasp a small section of the dough and pull, stretching it, so a “veil” is created.

This “veil-

effect” is the gluten mesh you are looking for. This means the dough is ready. (See photo)

46

Module 2: The dough secrets

 CONGRATS! Your dough is ready! Now it’s time to rest, for both, you and your dough! •

Take a clean, dry bowl. (Be sure it isn’t warm since heat will affect the rising of your dough.)

•

Sprinkle the inside of the bowl with some flour.

•

Place the dough in the sprinkled-floured bowl then cover the bowl loosely with plastic wrap. (Careful not to let the plastic touch the dough.)

•

Let the dough rest in a cool dry place, sheltered from direct sun and/or air drafts.

How long?? I’ll meet you in the next module!

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SUMMARY ✓

THE ORDER TO BE FOLLOWED IN MIXING THE INGREDIENTS 1. ADD THE SALT IN THE WATER: Into the bowl pour the amount of water (specified in my recipe) then add and dilute the salt, stirring it with your hand or a spoon. 2. ADD 10% OF THE FLOUR SPECIFIED IN THE RECIPE: If you are following the recipe to make 3 pizzas add 3 Tablespoons; if you are following the recipe to make 4 pizzas add 4 Tablespoons. You will obtain a homogeneous and liquid mixture. 3. DISSOLVE THE FRESH YEAST: Take the amount of fresh yeast (I suggested in my recipe) and by rubbing it between thumb and forefinger immerse it in the mixture and dissolve it. 4. ADD THE REMAINING FLOUR: Little by little add the remainder of the flour to the mixture, in order to avoid the dough from being too dry (remember, each flour has its own absorption capacity).

✓

WORKING OF YOUR DOUGH The objective is to create what is called the "mechanical leavening." I have shown basically two kneading methods, which are effective for this purpose. They are both based on the concept to repeatedly fold the dough onto itself, by doing this it incorporates air bubbles.

✓

HOW TO KNOW WHEN TO STOP KNEADING You have 5 parameters to decide when to stop kneading: 1.

The Regulation: about 20 minutes.

48

Module 2: The dough secrets

2.

The “earlobe test”: the dough is ready when it feels like the texture of your earlobe: soft but compact.

3.

The aspect of the dough: you should stop when the dough is soft, but not sticky, and smooth.

4.

You can test its pliability by using the "poke test."

5.

Look whether the gluten fibers have been well-formed.

 OK, LET THE DOUGH RISE! Now put the dough in a sprinkled-floured bowl. Then cover the bowl loosely with plastic wrap. Let the dough rest in a cool dry place, sheltered from the direct sun and/or air drafts.

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ADDENDUM ✓ WHEN USING DRY YEAST (ONLY): THE ORDER TO FOLLOW IN MIXING THE INGREDIENTS. If you have already dissolved the yeast in the water (as indicated in the Addendum of Module 1 - “How to use dry yeast”) then you will need to do the following steps in mixing the ingredients: 1.

ADD 10% OF THE FLOUR SPECIFIED IN THE RECIPE: −

If you are following the recipe to make 3 pizzas, add 3 Tablespoons of flour.

−

If you are following the recipe to make 4 pizzas, add 4 Tablespoons of flour.

In this way, you will obtain a homogeneous and liquid mixture. 2.

ADD THE SALT making sure it is evenly dissolved it the mixture.

3.

ADD THE REMAINING FLOUR: little by little add the remainder of the flour to the mixture, in order to avoid the dough from being too dry (Do you remember? each flour has their own absorption capacity!) It may not be necessary to use the entire remaining amount of flour suggested in the recipe. The most you will be saving is a few Tablespoons of flour.

Now go to the section: “The working of your dough.”

S

50

MODULE 3 THE LEAVENING PROCESS

Since your dough is resting undisturbed, it’s time for you to think about its future aspirations! Your questions at this point might be: 1.

"How long should the leavening last?"

2.

"What about the dough-balls? When should I make them?"

The answers can be found in the Regulation. But of course, I have summarized it for you. At a room temperature of 25°C (77°F), 8 hours of leavening are suggested, and they are divided in the following two steps: •

Step 1: the dough will rise in the bowl as one bulkmass for 2 hours (as per Regulation.) Fig. 3.1: Step 1 (Bulk-mass in the bowl).

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•

Step 2: you will form the dough-balls and they will rise on their own for another 6 hours (always as per the Regulation.)

The

Regulation,

does

NOT

however,

answer

two

Fig. 3.2: Step 2 (Dough-balls).

essential questions: •

Question 1: What happens if the temperature is lower or higher than 25°C?

•

Question 2: How does the strength of the flour affect the leavening time? (Since, according to the Regulation itself, the flour can vary from 220 “W” to 380 “W”.)

It’s clear that the total of 8 hours (2 + 6) represents a starting point. As matter of fact, through my ups and downs (no pun intended) I will explain further what I uncovered. But before I do, I will summarize for you the "rules” and the “tools” of the game to tackle the challenges in making Neapolitan pizza.

52

Module 3: The leavening process

✓ THE RULES OF THE GAME •

Room temperature affects the leavening time. The higher the temperature, the faster the leavening.

•

Flour strength affects the time it will take to “ripen” (maturation) the mixture. The higher the “W” value of the flour, a longer time is needed for it to “ripen”. What is the difference between leavening and maturation (ripen) process? Go to the Addendum, at the end of this module for further explanation.

✓ THE TOOLS There are two ways to “hold-off” the leavening process: •

To use very little yeast, which is what I’ve been recommending for my recipe.

•

To use the fridge in case the room temperature is too hot.

In order to achieve a complete maturation: •

It’s mandatory that leavening time does not go below 8 hours.

•

A medium strength flour must be used (my recommendation is to choose a 260-280 “W” flour.)

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MODULE 3 – INDEX THE LEAVENING PROCESS .......................................................................... 55 1ST PHASE: THE “PUNTATA” (BULK-FERMENTATION) ............................ 57 2ND PHASE: THE “STAGLIO” (MAKE-UP) .................................................. 58 ✓

HOW TO DO THE “STAGLIO” ...................................................... 60

3RD PHASE: THE “APPRETTO” (PROOFING) ............................................. 61 SUMMARY .................................................................................................. 64 ADDENDUM ................................................................................................ 65 ✓

LEAVENING VS MATURATION ........................................................ 65

✓

WHAT HAS CHANGED IN THE DOUGH BY DOING THE STAGLIO?... 65

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Module 3: The leavening process

THE LEAVENING PROCESS I’ll be a bit technical, at this point, just to let you know more about the leavening process. 1.

“Puntata” (Bulk-fermentation) An Italian term used in the pizza-making process to mean when the dough rises as one-mass (when it is resting in the bowl).

2.

“Staglio” (Make-up) Another Italian term used in the pizza-making process to mean when you actually cut/divide the dough (from the bulk) shaping it into dough-balls.

3.

“Appretto” (Proofing) Italian term used to mean the last stage in the leavening process of the dough-balls.

(See the following diagram.)

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(This happens on its own)

(This is the only part that you will need to do)

(This happens on its own)

56

LEAVENING PROCESS

Module 3: The leavening process

1ST PHASE: THE “PUNTATA” (BULK-FERMENTATION) The first phase in the leavening process is known as Bulk-fermentation. It is the period when the dough actually “rests” in the bowl (after mixing: flour, water, yeast and salt.) In this phase, the gluten structure changes in a way that it will make it easier to divide this one-mass into smaller portions called “dough-balls” (in Neapolitan dialect also called "criscitielli".) If the bulk-dough doesn’t “rest” for the specified leavening time, it will be quite hard to create the dough-balls. How many hours should this phase take? My recommendations are as follows: •

When room temperature is lower than 23°C (73°F), make the bulkfermentation last all night long, (and shape the dough-balls the following morning.)

•

When room temperature is close to 25°C (77°F,) follow the Regulation, i.e. about 2 hours of bulk-fermentation.

•

When room temperature is higher than 26°C (higher than 79°F), still follow the Regulation but in this case let the dough rest in the fridge (for about 2 hours of bulk-fermentation,).

Table 3.1 relates to this 1st leavening phase. It is broken down into 4 columns: 1. The Room Temperature which will affect the leavening process. 2. The Total Leavening Hours: the entire amount of time the process takes (bulk-fermentation + make-up + proofing.) 3. The Suggested Starting Time (mixing flour, water, yeast and salt.) 57

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4. And the Puntata (Bulk-fermentation) hours needed (before moving on to the next step: make-up.) Table 3.1: First leavening step: Puntata (Bulk-fermentation.)

Room Temperature 16°C - 19°C (61°F – 67°F) 20°C - 22°C (68°F – 72°F) 23°C - 24°C (73°F – 76°F) 25°C – 26°C (77°F –79°F) 27°C– 28°C (80°F – 82°F)

Total Leavening Hours

Suggested Starting Time 6:00 p.m. day before 10:00 p.m. day before

24 hrs 20 hrs

1st Phase Puntata (Bulk-Ferm.) 13 hrs 10 hrs

10 hrs

8:00 a.m.

2 hrs

8 hrs

10:00 a.m.

2 hrs

2 hrs (in the fridge) + 8 hrs (room Temp.)

8:00 a.m.

2 hrs

2ND PHASE: THE “STAGLIO” (MAKE-UP) The make-up consists in dividing the bulk-dough into smaller portions and shaping them into round forms, called “dough-balls”.

Table 3.2 relates to the 2nd leavening phase. It is broken down into 5 columns: 1. The Room Temperature which will affect the leavening process. 2. The Total Leavening Hours in its entirety (bulk-fermentation + make-up + proofing.)

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Module 3: The leavening process

3. The Suggested Starting Time (mixing flour, water, yeast and salt.) 4. The Puntata (Bulk-fermentation) hours needed before moving on to the next step: make-up. 5. And the Staglio (Make-up time): starting time to cut the bulk-dough into the dough-balls. Table 3.2: Second phase: Staglio (Make-up time.)

1st Phase Room Temp. 16°C - 19°C (61°F – 67°F) 20°C - 22°C (68°F – 72°F) 23°C - 24°C (73°F – 76°F) 25°C – 26°C (77°F –79°F) 27°C– 28°C (80°F – 82°F)

Total Leavening Hours 24 hrs 20 hrs

Suggested Starting Time 6:00 p.m. day before 10:00 p.m. day before

2nd Phase

Puntata Staglio (Bulk-Ferm.) (Make-up time) 13 hrs

08:00 a.m.

10 hrs

09:00 a.m.

10 hrs

8:00 a.m.

2 hrs

11:00 a.m.

8 hrs

10:00 a.m.

2 hrs

1:00 p.m.

2 hrs (fridge) + 8 hrs

8:00 a.m.

2 hrs

11:00 a.m.

If you have questioned what has changed in the dough by doing the “staglio”, see the explanation in the Addendum.

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✓ HOW TO DO THE “STAGLIO” The key: "do not stress the dough." Pizza is Italian after all, relaxing is important! ;-) It takes only 7 steps for the make-up to take place: 1.

Sprinkle the work surface with flour and place the dough on it.

2.

By using a spatula, divide the dough into 3 or 4 portions, according to the recipe. Try to make clean-decisive cuts.

3.

Weigh the portions on the

2

scale. They should be equally sized (around 225 grams). 4.

Shape each dough-portion into a round ball (from now on it will be called: “dough-ball.”) Fold the edge of the dough portion downwards and then push it

4

towards the inside of itself. (See photo.) 5.

Repeat this movement a few times, close-up the bottom of the dough-ball as evenly as possible (see photo), then strike

5

it on the work surface in order to seal it (make sure the surface is free of flour.) 60

Module 3: The leavening process

6.

Sprinkle some flour in the rectangular pan (or pizza dough box) and then place the dough-balls into it. Be sure to leave some space from the walls of the rectangular pan and from one another (this avoids the dough-balls, when rising, from fusing together and/or against the walls of the pan.)

7.

Cover the rectangular pan with plastic wrap.

3RD PHASE: THE “APPRETTO” (PROOFING) This is the final leavening phase. •

During the “Appretto” the dough completes the leavening and maturation process.

•

The gluten network relaxes, which allows the dough-balls to be more stretchable.

It’s important to make sure this phase is well balanced in the number of hours because: •

If proofing time is too short, the dough-balls could be hard to stretch: the dough tends to spring-back to its original shape.

•

If proofing time is too long the dough-balls will collapse onto themselves. First of all, you will encounter difficulty in peeling the dough-balls from the pan. Secondly, the outer-crust might not rise during the cooking. In order to avoid the collapse, I suggest to check the dough-balls 4 hours before stretching them. If they seem collapsed – regenerate the dough-balls (by making the movement already explained in page 60, steps 4 and 5.) 61

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Table 3.3 is related to the 3rd leavening phase. This is broken down into 6 columns: 1. The Room Temperature, which will affect the leavening process. 2. The Total Leavening Hours in its entirety (bulk-fermentation + make-up + proofing.) 3. The Suggested Starting Time (mixing flour, water, yeast and salt.) 4. The Puntata (Bulk-fermentation) hours needed before moving on to the next step: make-up. 5. The Staglio (Make-up): starting time to cut the bulk-dough into the dough-balls. 6. The Appretto (Proofing): hours needed before moving on to the stretching phase. Table 3.3: Third phase: Appretto (Proofing.)

Room Temperature 16°C - 19°C (61°F – 67°F) 20°C - 22°C (68°F – 72°F) 23°C - 24°C (73°F – 76°F) 25°C – 26°C (77°F –79°F) 27°C– 28°C (80°F – 82°F)

1st Phase

2nd Phase

Suggested Starting Time 6:00 p.m. day before 10:00 p.m. day before

Puntata (BulkFerm.)

Staglio Appretto (Make-up) (Proofing)

10 hrs

Total Leavening Hours 24 hrs

3rd Phase

13 hrs

08:00 a.m.

11 hrs

10 hrs

09:00 a.m.

10 hrs

8:00 a.m.

2 hrs

11:00 a.m.

8 hrs

8 hrs

10:00 a.m.

2 hrs

1:00 p.m.

6 hrs

2 hrs (fridge) + 8 hrs

8:00 a.m.

2 hrs

11:00 a.m.

8 hrs

20 hrs

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Module 3: The leavening process

THE MOST COMMON QUESTIONS about leavening HOW DO I KNOW IF THE DOUGH-BALLS ARE READY? The dough-balls are ready when they double their size in diameter, and are slightly flattened in appearance.

Dough-balls (after shaping)

Dough-balls ready to be stretched

WHAT SHOULD I DO IF THEY SEEM TO BE READY BEFORE THE SCHEDULED TIME? If you have at least 3 hours before stretching: re-shape the doughballs (by making the movement already explained on page 60, in steps 4 and 5.) By re-shaping the dough-balls you have regenerated the gluten network. It needs at least 3 hours to allow the doughballs to relax once again. At this point they will be ready to be stretched. If you do NOT have 3 hours before stretching: proceed immediately to stretching and cooking. 63

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SUMMARY The 3 phases of the leavening process are: ✓

✓

✓

THE “PUNTATA” (BULK-FERMENTATION) •

It is the first stage in the leavening process, when the dough actually “rests” (after you have mixed: flour, water, yeast and salt.)

•

This makes it easier to divide the bulk-dough into smaller portions.

THE “STAGLIO” (MAKE-UP) •

The make-up consists in dividing the bulk-dough into smaller portions and shaping them into round forms (dough-balls.)

•

It has the function to "regenerate" the gluten network in the dough after the first bulk-leavening phase.

THE “APPRETTO” (PROOFING) •

It is the last of the leavening phases.

•

I suggest to check the dough-balls 4 hours before stretching. If they seem collapsed, regenerate the dough-balls (by making the movement explained in page 60, steps 4 and 5.)

Room Temperature 16°C - 19°C (61°F – 67°F) 20°C - 22°C (68°F – 72°F) 23°C - 24°C (73°F – 76°F) 25°C – 26°C (77°F –79°F) 27°C– 28°C (80°F – 82°F)

1st Phase

2nd Phase

Suggested Starting Time 6:00 p.m. day before 10:00 p.m. day before

Puntata (BulkFerm.)

Staglio Appretto (Make-up) (Proofing)

10 hrs

Total Leavening Hours 24 hrs

3rd Phase

13 hrs

08:00 a.m.

11 hrs

10 hrs

09:00 a.m.

10 hrs

8:00 a.m.

2 hrs

11:00 a.m.

8 hrs

8 hrs

10:00 a.m.

2 hrs

1:00 p.m.

6 hrs

2 hrs (fridge) + 8 hrs

8:00 a.m.

2 hrs

11:00 a.m.

8 hrs

20 hrs

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Module 3: The leavening process

ADDENDUM ✓ LEAVENING vs MATURATION •

Leavening is the result of the activity of yeast, which feeds on sugars and releases carbon dioxide, thus increasing the volume of the dough. High room temperatures will accelerate and affect the entire leavening process.

•

“Maturation” is the process which starts when water and flour come into contact with each other. This breaks down starches and proteins into simpler elements like sugar (which is food for yeast). Maturation, on the other hand, is a much slower process.

The Leavening should be slow enough to allow in the meanwhile the Maturation to complete its process. That's why it's important to use a very small amount of yeast. Thanks to this relationship between these two processes, the pizza will be tasty, better-looking and, most importantly, easier to digest.

✓ WHAT HAS CHANGED IN THE DOUGH BY DOING THE STAGLIO? Cutting and shaping the dough-mass into smaller portions has the function to "regenerate" the gluten network in the dough. In fact, as time goes by, the gluten network relaxes more and more. This facilitates the next step, which is the stretching of the pizza-base. However, if it relaxes for too long a period, it will be counter-productive because the 65

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air bubbles filter through the gluten network. This means: no bubbles...no party. And we don’t want this. Do we!?

66

MODULE 4 THE TOPPING

Topping your pizza in the proper way… ...and you’ll start tasting the success of this challenge! Half an hour before cooking, begin to prepare all the ingredients you'll be needing. Put them into appropriate bowls and have them nearby, on hand. In Tables 4.1 and 4.2 the amounts of ingredients needed to top 3 and 4 pizzas, whether you’ll be making Margheritas or Marinaras. Table 4.1: The amount of each ingredient needed to top 3 and 4 Margheritas.

TOPPING Ingredients: Tomato Mozzarella/ Fior di latte Salt Extra Virgin Olive Oil Basil

MARGHERITA For 3 pizzas For 4 pizzas 400 g (14 oz) 500 g (18 oz) 400 g (14 oz) 500 g (18 oz) To taste To taste To taste To taste To taste To taste

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Table 4.2: The amount of each ingredient needed to top 3 and 4 Marinaras.

TOPPING Ingredients: Tomato Salt Extra Virgin Olive Oil Garlic Oregano

MARINARA For 3 pizzas For 4 pizzas 400 g (14 oz) 500 g (18 oz) To taste To taste To taste To taste 3 cloves 4 cloves To taste To taste

PLEASE NOTE: If you want a great pizza, choose fresh ingredients, and use them in the appropriate amounts! Let’s see in details what this actually means.

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Module 4: The topping

MODULE 4 - INDEX THE TOMATOES .......................................................................................... 70 ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓

HOW TO PREPARE THE TOMATO-SAUCE ....................................... 71 THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY OF THE TOMATO-SAUCE ....................... 72 USING SMALL RIPE FRESH CHERRY-TOMATOES ............................. 73 THE PROPER QUANTITY OF TOMATO TOPPING FOR EACH PIZZA .. 73

THE SALT ..................................................................................................... 73 THE MOZZARELLA (FOR MARGHERITA ONLY) ............................................ 74 ✓ HOW TO SLICE MOZZARELLA .......................................................... 74 ✓ THE PROPER QUANTITY OF MOZZARELLA TO BE USED ON EACH PIZZA ....................................................................................................... 75 THE OLIVE OIL ............................................................................................. 75 THE BASIL (FOR MARGHERITA ONLY) ......................................................... 76 THE GARLIC (FOR MARINARA ONLY) .......................................................... 76 THE OREGANO (FOR MARINARA ONLY) ..................................................... 77 SUMMARY .................................................................................................. 78 ADDENDUM ................................................................................................ 81 ✓ WHAT DO THE ACRONYMS “D.O.P.” AND “S.T.G.” MEAN? ........... 81 ✓ DID YOU KNOW THAT THERE IS A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MOZZARELLA AND FIOR DI LATTE? ........................................................ 81

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THE TOMATOES Pizza is a real Neapolitan specialty; thus, all the ingredients should preferably be from Campania (the geographical region of Naples,) as suggested by AVPN (Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana.) The most famous types of tomatoes from Campania are: •

San Marzano tomato of Agro Sarnese – Nocerino D.O.P. (Protected Designation of Origin.) To know more about DOP and STG certifications go to the Addendum at the end of this module. The D.O.P. certification ensures that the tomatoes have actually grown within the geographical zone called “Agro Sarnese – Nocerino” (south of Naples). You can recognize it by the seal on the package, shown here on the right.

•

Pomodorino del Piennolo del Vesuvio D.O.P, also translated as “little Vesuvian tomato”

or

“Piennolo

tomato”,

is

characterized by a teardrop shape with a pointy tip, usually sold in clusters. Always pay attention to the D.O.P. certification (which in this case ensures that tomatoes come from the slopes of Mt. Vesuvius – just outside of Naples.) You can recognize it by the seal on the package, shown on the right.

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Module 4: The topping

•

Pomodorino di Corbara (“Corbarino”): these tomatoes whose shape resembles a pear, are mainly produced on the Corbara hillsides, which is part of the Salerno province (always in the geographical region of Campania.)

Fig. 4.2: Pomodorino del Piennolo del Vesuvio

Fig. 4.1: San Marzano tomatoes.

Fig. 4.3: Corbarino.

✓ HOW TO PREPARE THE TOMATO-SAUCE Use peeled Italian tomatoes (any of the types mentioned above,) and in a bowl with your hands crush the tomatoes by opening and closing your fist. This method is quite fast, but if the idea to splash around with your hands

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in the bowl doesn’t excite you, I can understand, and I’m sure no one will object to it, if, in the privacy of your kitchen, you use a simple fork! I’ve heard that many have used a tomato puree instead of peeled tomatoes, but this is an unorthodox method (and I don’t recommend it.) By doing this, even if you use a highquality Italian product, the result will not be what we are looking for, which is to have an authentic Neapolitan pizza. PLEASE NOTE: The peeled tomatoes have already been cooked by the manufacturers, even though not seasoned. So, you don’t need to cook it before using it on the top of your pizzas. ✓ THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY OF THE TOMATO-SAUCE Make sure the tomatosauce is not too thick in consistency, because the high temperature of the oven will quickly evaporate any excess water left in the tomatoes. If the tomato dries (this is why you should not use tomato puree,) the result would be neither too appealing to look at, or tasty. 72

Module 4: The topping

✓ USING SMALL RIPE FRESH CHERRY-TOMATOES (AS ALTERNATIVE) A traditional variant for Margherita,

when

using

buffalo mozzarella, is to add fresh

sliced

cherry-

tomatoes. Cut cherry-tomatoes into slices and distribute them evenly on the pizza. Or, if you prefer, you can also add them on top of a very thin layer of peeled tomato-sauce, which you have already ladled on your pizza. ✓ THE PROPER QUANTITY OF TOMATO TOPPING FOR EACH PIZZA Whether using fresh or peeled tomatoes, the quantity is between: •

60 and 80 grams for each individual Margherita.

•

70 and 100 grams for each individual Marinara.

These quantities are equivalent to the content that a medium-size ladle holds.

THE SALT Salt the tomato-sauce, in this way, you’ll avoid salting one pizza more than another.

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THE MOZZARELLA (for Margherita only) Use Italian mozzarella, and preferably choose: •

“Mozzarella di Bufala Campana D.O.P.”

•

“Mozzarella S.T.G.” (Traditional Specialty Guaranteed.)

•

“Fior di latte dell’Appennino Meridionale D.O.P.”

If you want to know more about the difference between mozzarella and fior di latte, read the chapter devoted to this subject in the Addendum, at the end of this module. ✓ HOW TO SLICE MOZZARELLA Slice the mozzarella/fiordilatte into strips and, if after cutting them, they seem to be too milky in content, put the strips to drain in a colander, at least 15 minutes before you start to cook/bake your pizza. In this way, the pizza will not be “flooded” by the milk released by the mozzarella or fior di latte while cooking. Make sure however that it doesn’t become too dry and also take into consideration the excess water from your tomatoes.

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Module 4: The topping

✓ THE PROPER QUANTITY OF MOZZARELLA TO BE USED ON EACH PIZZA The Regulation recommends between 80 to 100 grams of mozzarella for each pizza (what I like is to use a bit more, approximately about 130 grams.)

THE OLIVE OIL Choose an extra virgin olive oil with low acidic content. I suggest to use an oil cruet, it will help you pour just the right quantity.

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THE BASIL (for Margherita only) Basil is very important, both because it enhances the flavor of the pizza, and because it creates a nice color contrast. It is mandatory to use fresh basil. The amount you’ll use is at your discretion. PLEASE NOTE: Do not forget to wash the leaves before adding them on to your pizza! Don’t wash the basil too much ahead of time, otherwise it will turn limp and it will blacken.

THE GARLIC (for Marinara only) When

making

your

Marinara, be prepared with your garlic. Peel the garlic cloves and slice them thinly. After having already topped your Marinara with the tomato-sauce, scatter the thinly sliced garlic over the pizza-base. The quantity of garlic to be used really depends on your preference and the size of the cloves (but please, do not exaggerate!)

A personal tip:

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Module 4: The topping

Before you slice the garlic, cut the clove in half and eliminate the inner sprout, because this is the hardest part of the garlic to digest (see photo).

THE OREGANO (for Marinara only) Just a pinch for each Marinara pizza. You will sprinkle the oregano on the pizza-base after having ladled the tomato-sauce. Instead, if you are making only Marinaras, you can sprinkle the oregano directly into the tomato-sauce.

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SUMMARY Begin to prepare all the ingredients you'll need. Put them into appropriate bowls that you’ll place nearby for easy access. In the following tables are the amounts of ingredients needed to top 3 or 4 Margherita/Marinara pizzas.

✓

TOPPING Ingredients: Tomato Mozzarella/ Fior di latte Salt Extra Virgin Olive Oil Basil

MARGHERITA For 3 pizzas For 4 pizzas 400 g (14 oz) 500 g (18 oz) 400 g (14 oz) 500 g (18 oz) To taste To taste To taste To taste To taste To taste

TOPPING Ingredients: Tomato Salt Extra Virgin Olive Oil Garlic Oregano

MARINARA For 3 pizzas For 4 pizzas 400 g (14 oz) 500 g (18 oz) To taste To taste To taste To taste 3 cloves 4 cloves To taste To taste

THE TOMATOES • Use Italian tomato, preferably from Campania: -

San Marzano tomato of Agro Sarnese – Nocerino D.O.P.

-

Pomodorino del Piennolo del Vesuvio D.O.P

-

Pomodorino di Corbara.

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Module 4: The topping

• Use peeled tomatoes and/or ripe cherry-tomatoes. • Make sure the tomato-sauce is not too thick. • The recommended quantity is between 60 grams and 100 grams for each pizza (the amount that a medium-sized ladle holds.)

✓

THE SALT Add it directly into the tomato-sauce

✓

THE MOZZARELLA (for Margherita only) • Use Italian mozzarella, and preferably choose from the following: -

Mozzarella di Bufala Campana D.O.P.

-

Mozzarella S.T.G.

-

Fior di latte dell’Appennino Meridionale D.O.P.

• Slice the mozzarella/fiordilatte into strips. • If it seems to be too milky in content, put the strips in a colander to drain, at least 15 minutes before starting to cook or bake your Margherita. • Regulation recommends an amount of mozzarella between 80 and 100 grams for each individual pizza (I prefer 130 grams.).

✓

THE BASIL (for Margherita only) It is absolutely necessary to use fresh basil. The quantity is at your discretion. Do not forget to wash the leaves before using them!

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✓

THE OLIVE OIL • Choose an extra virgin olive oil with a low acidic content. • Using an oil cruet is very useful.

✓

THE GARLIC (for Marinara only) • Peel the garlic cloves. • Slice them thinly. • The quantity to be used depends on your preference and the size of the cloves (but do not exaggerate!)

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Module 4: The topping

ADDENDUM ✓ WHAT DO THE ACRONYMS “D.O.P.” AND “S.T.G.” MEAN? •

D.O.P.: “Denominazione d’Origine Protetta” literally means “Protected Designation of Origin”. It’s a certification conferred by the European Union. It assures you that the food you’re buying is produced in a specific geographical zone, according to the traditional making process.

•

S.T.G.: “Specialità Tradizionale Garantita” literally means “Traditional Speciality Guaranteed”. It’s another kind of European certification. It assures you that the food was produced in compliance with the traditional making process, determining its quality. (In this case the geographical zone of production is not considered a determinant factor.)

✓ DID YOU KNOW THAT THERE IS A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MOZZARELLA AND FIOR DI LATTE? The term mozzarella derives from the word "mozzatura", which is done by the cheese-makers when they cut short pieces from the initial bulk. These smaller portions are then called “mozzarellas”. This process is also used to cut the “fior di latte”. This similarity in the making process has created quite a bit of confusion in terms of terminology.

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Let me explain: - “Mozzarella” is made of buffalo’s milk. - “Fiordilatte” (or “fior di latte”) is made of cow’s milk.

Figura 4.4: Mozzatura.

The buffalo mozzarella obtained the Protected Designation of Origin (D.O.P). Then pay attention when you buy a buffalo mozzarella. If it comes from the typical geographic zone, you will read on the label “Mozzarella di Fig. 4.5: Seal of approval that must be present on the packaging of “Mozzarella di Bufala Campana” DOP.

Bufala Campana”, and there will be the two seals of approval, as shown in figure 4.5. If mozzarella doesn’t come 82

Module 4: The topping

from the authorized geographic zone, you will find other similar labels but without such seals of approval. The Fior di latte obtained the S.T.G certification. That means it is a “Traditional Speciality Guaranteed”, whose quality is not affected by a specific geographical zone of production, but only by the manufacturing process, which is strictly

Fig. 4.6: Seal of approval that must be present on the packaging of fior di latte S.T.G.

regulated. However,

in

2002,

the

“Fior

di

latte

dell’Appennino Meridionale” (Fior di latte of the Southern Apennines), has obtained Protected Designation of Origin at the Italian national level Fig. 4.7: Seal of approval that must be present on the packaging of “Fior di latte dell’Appennino Meridionale”.

but it is still awaiting the European recognition.

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84

MODULE 5 HOW TO STRETCH THE DOUGH

SO HERE WE ARE!!! THE LEAVENING HOURS HAVE BEEN COMPLETED! Are you ready to stretch the dough-balls??? LET’S START!!!

Actually, stretching and cooking constitute ONE single phase, but to be more thoroughly, I have decided to treat them separately in order to explain it better and possibly make it easier. For this reason, I recommend the following steps: •

Prepare the oven: -

Place an oven-rack on the nearest slot underneath the top-grill so that your baking-pan will be close to the heating element by at least 4 cm (1.5 inches.) REMINDER: If the distance between the rack and the heating element is more than 4 cm, then you must take an empty bakingpan and overturn it, so it will act as a support to raise your round pizza-pan (see pages 13-14). 85

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PLEASE NOTE: do the above steps while the oven is cold, before you turn on the top-oven grill. •

Turn on the grill, so that it reaches a consistent high temperature.

Read Module 5 and watch the video “Come stendere la pizza napoletana - How to stretch the pizza dough” freely available on YouTube at this URL: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9wXYrpwK4o

•

Next, go to Module 6 to know how to cook the pizza.

YOU ARE NOW READY TO START THE STRETCHING OF THE DOUGH-BALLS!

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Module 5: How to stretch the dough

MODULE 5 - INDEX 1ST PHASE: CREATING THE “SMALL DISK” FROM THE DOUGH-BALL .......... 88 2ND PHASE: ENLARGING THE “SMALL DISK” ............................................... 91 A) STRETCHING METHOD .................................................................... 91 B) STRETCHING METHOD .................................................................... 92 SUMMARY .................................................................................................. 94

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1ST PHASE: CREATING THE “SMALL DISK” FROM THE DOUGH-BALL THE VERY FIRST step in stretching the dough-ball is what I call – creating the “small disk”. It comprises of the following: - "Side-A": the upper part of the dough-ball - “Side-B": the part that has been in contact with the inside of the rectangular pan during the leavening phase.

Fig. 5.1: Diagram of a dough-ball ready to be stretched.

1. From the rectangular pan lift off the plastic wrap and discard it. Then make a small mound of flour on your work surface. 2. Peel one of the dough-balls from the pan with the spatula.

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Module 5: How to stretch the dough

If the dough-balls for some reason have fused to one another, then with the spatula give a net precise cut where they are “stuck”, thus separating them. PLEASE NOTE: To prevent the dough from sticking to the spatula, sprinkle it with a bit of flour. 3. Flip the dough-ball onto the flour mound that you have put on the work surface

(side-A

of

the

dough-ball in the flour.) 4. Dust some flour on the dough to prevent it from sticking to your hands, and from the center of the dough-ball start pushing and pressing it towards the edges, with your fingertips. PLEASE NOTE: Do not flatten the edges. Leave 1 cm (1/2 inch,) this will become the outer-crust of the pizza. 5. Flip-over once again the dough-ball in the flour (side-B). Repeat the same movement as before, by pushing and pressing the dough from its center to the edges. [Don’t forget to leave that 1 cm (1/2 inch) in order to create the outer-crust.] 89

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You have now created the “small-disk”. In the 2nd phase this disk will be stretched out even further, creating what will become the pizza-base. 6. Place the small-disk on your work surface on an area free of flour. Do not flip it again, reason being this will be where you’ll be adding the toppings. Side-A is the smoothest part of the pizza base and therefore ensures an aesthetically better-looking pizza. And isn’t this what you want?

NOW IT’S TIME TO GO TO THE 2ND PHASE.

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Module 5: How to stretch the dough

2ND PHASE: ENLARGING THE “SMALL DISK” A) Stretching method Here are the steps, but I also recommend for you to watch the Video available on YouTube at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9wXYrpwK4o

1.

Place the entire disk of dough on

1

one palm of your hand. 2.

Then flip it on the opposite palm and start to rotate it with your wrists towards your chest, in a counterclockwise direction. In this way you will obtain an evenly-streched disk.

3.

As the disk of dough starts stretching, you will need to

2

support it by using your wrist and the lower part of your forearm. PLEASE NOTE: Do not let it hang down or it will stretch unevenly and/or it might rip. 4.

Keep repeating this movement until the small-disk becomes what I call the real “pizza-base.” You should stretch it out to the size of your round baking-pan. 91

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B) Stretching method The main difference between the previous method and this one, is that in this case the dough is worked almost entirely on the work surface. Here are the steps:

1 1. On one-half side of the smalldisk (as shown in diagram) place one hand in order to keep it steady.

2. With the other hand, start lifting

2

the opposite side of the disk (as shown in diagram) and slightly start pulling it toward the outside. 3. Now, flip the disk onto the upturned palm of your opposite hand. 4. Then flip-flop it back and forth, while rotating it in a counterclockwise direction. In this way you will obtain an evenlystreched disk. 92

3

Module 5: How to stretch the dough

4

5. Repeat these steps at least 5 times or until the pizza-base

will

be

stretched out to the size of your round baking-pan. PLEASE NOTE: The pizzabase needs to be thin enough, but do not overdo the stretching otherwise you will cause the dough to rip.

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SUMMARY Prepare the oven so that the top-grill has time to reach a consistent high temperature.

✓ 1ST PHASE: CREATING THE “SMALL DISK” FROM THE DOUGH-

BALL 1. Peel one of the dough-balls from the rectangular pan with the spatula. 2. Flip the dough-ball onto the flour mound that you have made on the work surface. 3. From the center of the dough-ball start pushing and pressing it towards the edges, with your fingertips (without flattening the edges what will become your pizza-crust.) 4. Flip-over once again the dough-ball and repeat the same movement as before, by pushing and pressing the dough. 5. Place the disk on your work surface in an area free of flour. Do not flip it again. 6. Go to the 2nd phase.

✓ 2ND PHASE: ENLARGING THE “SMALL DISK” A) STRETCHING METHOD 1. Place the entire disk of dough on one palm of your hand.

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Module 5: How to stretch the dough

2. Flip the dough from one hand to the other, with a twisting motion toward your chest. 3. As you stretch the dough-disk you will need to start supporting this process by using your wrist and the lower part of your forearm. Do not let it hang down or it might rip. 4. Repeat this movement until the pizza-base has stretched to the size of your round baking-pan.

B) STRETCHING METHOD 1. Place one hand on the one-half side of the disk in order to keep it steady. 2. With the other hand start lifting the opposite side of the disk, and slightly pull it toward the outside. 3. Flip the disk onto the upturned palm of your opposite hand. 4. Then flip-flop it back and forth while rotating the dough-disk in a counterclockwise direction. 5. Repeat these steps at least 5 times or until the pizza-base will be stretched out to the size of your round baking-pan.

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GET YOUR 60% DISCOUNT Are the pictures in the book not enough for you? Would you like to see me at work? Since you purchased the book, you also have the right to access to the video content of the course for just € 19.99 (instead of € 49.99). Here's how to get your bonus: Make a photo of your copy of this book, and send it to: [email protected]. Then I will send you the instructions to buy the video course on my site at the super discounted price of € 19.99 (which I reserve only for my customers and readers).

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MODULE 6 HOW TO COOK PIZZA THE DUAL-PHASE COOKING METHOD

THE PIZZA-BASE IS READY AND OF COURSE BY NOW THE GRILL IS HOT! In a few minutes, you will taste the result of your efforts! I am going to show you the fastest and most practical method to cook at home the authentic Neapolitan pizza. It is a method that can give you great satisfactions, as I have tested other methods and in fact, this is the one I prefer. PLEASE NOTE: As explained in module 4, ALL ingredients must be ready and standing nearby before you start the next steps.

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MODULE 6 - INDEX “STOVETOP & GRILL” METHOD (THE DUAL-PHASE TECHNIQUE) .............. 99 THE 10 EASY COOKING STEPS ................................................................. 99 THE “SUPER-LID” ...................................................................................... 106 WHY IS THE “STOVETOP & GRILL” METHOD SO UNIQUE? ....................... 107 ✓

WHAT HAPPENS INSIDE A WOOD-BURNING OVEN ..................... 107

✓

HOW DOES THE “STOVETOP & GRILL” METHOD SIMULATE THE

WOOD-BURNING OVEN??? .................................................................. 108 SUMMARY ................................................................................................ 110

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Module 6: How to cook pizza

“STOVETOP & GRILL” METHOD (the dual-phase technique) I have experimented over many years and have fine-tuned a unique home unrivalled-technique in making pizza. This process has given me great satisfaction, because the results are the type of pizzas one expects in cooking it in a wood-burning oven! A two-step method duplicates the wood-burning oven without having to invest in such expensive and cumbersome equipment. 1.

The first step of cooking will take place on the stovetop.

2.

The second step of cooking will be in the oven (and will take place under the top grill.)

This is simply done by following the next 10 easy steps.

THE 10 EASY COOKING STEPS 1. Light and set on max the gas knob (or the electric element) of the largest element of your

stovetop

and

place the empty round baking-pan on it. 99

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2. Wait until the temperature of the empty baking-pan

reaches

around 260°C (500°F) (measure it with the infrared thermometer) and then place the pizza-base on the baking-pan and adjust it until it's totally laid out flat. PLEASE NOTE: Be careful! The baking-pan by now, will be extremely HOT! But, on the other hand, if it hasn’t reached the recommended temperature, the dough will most likely stick to the pan, impeding you from fully filling the baking-pan.

3. Lower the stovetop gas

knob

or

electric

element

setting

it

the by

between

maximum and/or intermediate,

because

now it’s time to add the ingredients on top of the pizza base. When creating your pizza, make sure you will always be adding these ingredients with… Lots of LOVE!!!

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Module 6: How to cook pizza

4. So, take a ladle of tomato sauce and pour it on the middle of the pizza-base. With the same ladle spread the tomato in a circular motion from the center towards the outer-edge, making sure not to cover the outercrust.

5.

For Margherita: Pick up a handful of mozzarella

strips

and distribute them evenly across the pizza. For Marinara: Scatter some garlic slices on the pizza.

6. For Margherita: Arrange a handful of basil leaves here and there across the pizza. For Marinara: Sprinkle a pinch of oregano on the pizza.

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7. In a circular motion drizzle some olive oil, from the center outwards

8. Wear your oven mitts (they will be necessary from now on) so you can give a half turn to the baking-pan (be careful, it will be very hot!) By turning it ensures uniformity of the heat throughout. TIP: At times, in this moment of the cooking process, I have enhanced the appearance of my pizza by using what I call “the super-lid” (to know more see the chapter below.)

9. With a triangular cake-server or a fork, flip upwards one side of the pizza in order to check that the bottom is cooking well. -

If the bottom is still pale, then continue the cooking on the stove and rotate the baking-pan at least once more. (Make sure you wear your oven mitts while doing this.)

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Module 6: How to cook pizza

-

Once the bottom is golden-brown and evenly spotted (approximately after 2 minutes of cooking) then it’s time to turn off the stovetop gas knob or

the

electric

element. The next step (again, make sure you have your oven mitts on) is to take the baking-pan from the stovetop and move it into the oven by placing it underneath the top-grill.

10. The under should

cooking the be

time top-grill ap-

proximately 2 minutes. I suggest for you to rotate the pan at least once. (Don’t forget to wear your oven mitts, to do this step.)

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The outer crust should have

some

spots

burned

(and

Margherita

for the

mozzarella should be well melted.) These are indicators

that

the

pizza is perfectly cooked and ready to be served!

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Module 6: How to cook pizza

CONGRATULATION!!! WELL DONE!!!!

BUON APPETITO!!!

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THE “SUPER-LID” As I mentioned above (in step 8) there is the possibility to enhance the appearance of the pizza, by using what I call the “super-lid!” The “super-lid” is simply a large enough empty frying-pan, which will be used to cover the round baking-pan when cooking the pizza on the stovetop. As you are getting the round-baking pan warmed-up on the element, at the same time you should do the following steps (in order to have the super-lid ready to be used): •

Light a separate element.

•

Place the empty fryingpan on it, so it warms up simultaneously with your round baking-pan.

•

After

having

finished

topping your pizza-base, you will use the “superlid” to cover the pizza. •

Cook it in this manner for about 20 seconds.

•

After the 20 seconds, check the bottom of the pizza, as described in step 9.

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WHY IS THE “STOVETOP & GRILL” METHOD SO UNIQUE? Previously I have told you that the results of the “dual-phase” method are those one expects from a wood-burning oven. But how is this possible?! Everybody knows that professional pizza makers, cook pizza in woodburning ovens. However, in the modern home most likely not everyone has one. So, with the two-phase method I have fine-tuned the process by having invested many hours in the kitchen; testing, adjusting and finalizing the simulation of the wood-burning oven. ✓

WHAT HAPPENS INSIDE A WOOD-BURNING OVEN When cooking the Neapolitan pizza, the heat in the wood-burning oven should reach very high temperatures: -

The floor of the oven is usually around 430°C (806°F.)

-

The ceiling (the dome) of the oven will hover around 485°C (905°F.)

Thanks to these very high temperatures the pizza bakes in 60-90 seconds, allowing the following results: 1.

A high outer-crust, because the strong heat received from the oven floor, allows the rapid growth of the bubbles in the dough.

2.

A golden-brown color to the pizza.

3.

A softer pizza, since it cooks quickly and doesn’t have time to dry out. 107

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✓

HOW DOES THE “STOVETOP & GRILL” METHOD SIMULATE THE WOODBURNING OVEN??? •

When we cook the pizza on the stove we are simulating the floor of the wood-burning oven. This is the moment when the bottom of the pizza cooks and the outer-crust starts to rise. NOTE: Theoretically, the more the temperature of the baking-pan approaches that of the floor of the wood-burning oven, the better it would be. However, if the pan reaches this high temperature, the dough, once in contact with the metal would quickly burn. In a wood-burning oven this doesn’t happen because the oven floor is usually made up of bricks which are porous and retain the heat evenly. Thus, in our case, a temperature of around 260°C (500°F) will be more than enough.

•

When cooking the pizza under the grill we are duplicating the same effects of the ceiling (dome) in a wood-burning oven. This completes the cooking of the outer-crust, making it goldenbrown. It also melts the mozzarella when making Margherita.

Clearly: this method achieves what we were after, and that is the pizza that you get form a wood-burning oven.

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Module 6: How to cook pizza

The texture, the mouth-watering aroma and the taste of your pizza will rival that of many pizzerias!

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SUMMARY This method consists of 2 steps: • The first step of cooking will take place on the stovetop, which simulates the floor of a wood-burning oven. • The second step of cooking will take place in the oven, under the topgrill, which simulates the ceiling (dome) of a wood-burning oven. It’s simply done in the following 10 steps. 1. Light the largest element of your stovetop and place the empty round baking-pan on it, and set the stovetop gas knob or the electric element on max setting. 2. Wait until the temperature of the round baking-pan reaches around 260°C (500°F), place the pizza-base on the baking-pan and adjust it until it's totally laid out flat. Be careful: the baking-pan is very HOT! 3. Lower the stovetop gas knob or the electric element by setting it between max/intermediate. 4. Take a ladle of tomato sauce and pour it on the middle of the pizza-base. Then spread the tomato sauce in a circular motion from the center towards the outer edge. Do not cover the outer-crust with the tomato sauce. 5. For Margherita: Distribute a handful of mozzarella strips evenly across the pizza.

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Module 6: How to cook pizza

For Marinara: Scatter some garlic slices on the pizza. 6. For Margherita: Arrange a handful of basil leaves here and there across the pizza. For Marinara: Sprinkle a pinch of oregano on the pizza. 7. In a circular motion drizzle some olive oil, from the center outwards. 8. By wearing your oven mitts, give a half turn to the baking-pan. TIP: Using the “super-lid” over the baking-pan enhances the appearance of the pizza and it speeds up the cooking. 9. With a triangular cake-server or a fork, flip-up one side of the pizza in order to check that the bottom is cooking well. • If the bottom is still pale, then continue the cooking on the stove and rotate the baking-pan once again, as needed. • Once the bottom is golden-brown and evenly spotted (approximately after 2 minutes) turn off the stovetop gas knob or the electric element. Then move the baking-pan into the oven by placing it under the top-grill. 10.The cooking time under the top-grill should be approximately 2 minutes. I suggest for you to rotate the pan at least once. Make sure you wear your mittens while doing this. When the outer-crust has some burned spots (and the mozzarella is well melted for the Margherita,) the pizza is perfectly cooked and ready to be served.

Enjoy your pizza!!! 111

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112

FREE MODULE CLAUDIA’S TIPS!

Now you know all there is to know on how to make a great authentic Neapolitan pizza! This extra-module, which I’m giving to you as a gift, is so that your result will be a GREAT tasting pizza – ALWAYS! Enjoy the read!

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FREE MODULE - INDEX FLATTENED OR COLLAPSED DOUGH-BALL?.............................................. 115 EXCEEDINGLY FIRM DOUGH-BALL? .......................................................... 116 DOUGH-BALL TOO GLUEY OR GUMMY? .................................................. 117 DRY-FILM ON DOUGH-BALL? .................................................................... 119 NOT-BENDING PIZZA? .............................................................................. 120

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Free Module: Claudia’s Tips!

FLATTENED OR COLLAPSED DOUGH-BALL? When the dough-balls have exceeded the ideal number of hours of leavening, they appear to be flat or deflated.

✓ WHAT ARE THE CONSEQUENCES OF THIS? •

Difficulty in peeling up the dough-balls from the rectangular pan: the dough-balls will stick to the pan and to the spatula.

•

Difficulty in stretching the dough-balls: the dough will tend to rip easily.

•

Possible flat outer-crust: this result is due to the gluten network, which has excessively relaxed making the air bubbles filter through the gluten network.

✓ REMEDIES for flattened or collapsed dough-ball Depends on which of the two following scenarios has happened to you: 1. If the dough-ball has collapsed but it doesn’t have any slight hint of a sour smell, it simply means that the proofing (the second leavening stage) was too long. You have 3 solutions: a) The only immediate solution you have is to re-handle and reshape the dough-balls. This will give new strength to the gluten network. But it must be done at least 3 hours before you bake it.

If

you do not have 3 hours then proceed immediately to stretching and cooking. 115

SFIDA PIZZA

b) Next time you make pizza, in order to avoid this problem, you can choose one of these remedies: b.1) Allocating fewer hours in the proofing stage (in favor of longer bulk fermentation.) b.2) Using stronger flour, or make your flour stronger by combining it with another very strong one such as 320 “W” or Manitoba flour.

2. If the dough-ball has collapsed and has a hint of a sour smell: the cause of this, is that the room temperature was too high. The dough rose too fast resulting in the souring. Here are 2 solutions for this: a) In this case immediately stretch and then cook/bake the pizzas. b) Next time you make pizza however, in order to avoid this problem, slow down the leavening process by keeping the dough-balls in the fridge for at least 2 hours.

EXCEEDINGLY FIRM DOUGH-BALL? If the dough-ball is hard (despite having covered the rectangular baking-pan to preserve the dough moisture) it means that it has not leavened or matured enough. In this case it doesn’t have the typical relaxed appearance of a dough-ball ready to be stretched. This is because the gluten network didn’t have time to relax sufficiently.

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Free Module: Claudia’s Tips!

✓ WHAT ARE THE CONSEQUENCES OF THIS? •

Difficulty in stretching: in this case the dough tends to spring-back to its original shape (extremely elastic.)

•

Flat outer-crust: the lack of time allocated in the leavening process implies that the development of carbon dioxide is very low and therefore resulting in a flattened outer-crust.

•

Difficult to digest: because of this lack of leavening/maturing of the dough, the pizza could be difficult to digest.

✓ REMEDIES for exceedingly firm dough-ball Unfortunately, there are no immediate remedies. However, next time you make pizza increase the proofing period (the last phase of leavening) for a couple of hours.

DOUGH-BALL TOO GLUEY OR GUMMY? If the dough retained too much water, or if the humidity of the room where the dough rose is too high (this usually happens in cellars), the dough-balls will be sticky. This happens also if you cover the dough-balls with a damp dish-towel (as sometimes suggested by other chefs). They believe it preserves the moisture of the dough-balls. But I don’t agree; in reality, you will risk adding 117

SFIDA PIZZA

more moisture to the dough. If the dough has such consistency you will be forced to add a lot more flour in the stretching phase.

✓ WHAT ARE THE CONSEQUENCES OF THIS? •

A burned pizza bottom: the excess flour at the bottom of your pizzabase burns quickly, way before the pizza is completely cooked.

•

A bitter taste: the burned pizza bottom gives to it a bitter taste.

✓ REMEDIES for dough-ball too gluey or gummy There are no immediate remedies. You can only be more careful the next time you make the pizza, by: a) Covering the rectangular pan, where you let the dough-balls leaven, with plastic wrap or a lid. b) Avoiding letting your dough leaven in a very humid room. c) Avoiding having too much water in your mixture. This means you need to add more flour to the mixture during the mixing stage.

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Free Module: Claudia’s Tips!

DRY-FILM ON DOUGH-BALL? As I recommended In Module 2 and Module 3, always cover the bowl and the rectangular pan with

plastic-wrap in order to preserve the dough

moisture (whether its bulk-dough or dough-balls.) But what happens if you don't cover it? The surface of the dough dries out and becomes hard. This parched surface is what I’ve called “dry-film.”

✓ WHAT ARE THE CONSEQUENCES OF THIS? •

Difficulty in stretching the dough-ball: the dough has lost its softness and its pliability, so it can possibly easily rip and tear.

•

Another consequence is, once pizza has cooked, it will not have a good-looking aspect.

✓ REMEDIES for dry-film on dough-ball There are no immediate remedies. You can only be more careful the next time you make pizza by covering the rectangular pan with plastic wrap or a lid.

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NOT-BENDING PIZZA? When the cooking temperature is too low, the pizza takes longer to cook, and in this way, loses moisture and dries out, becoming stiff.

✓ WHAT ARE THE CONSEQUENCES OF THIS? Your result will be a pizza that is way too toasted, rigid, not bendable, too crispy and the toppings have dried out.

✓ REMEDIES for not-bending pizza Next time you make pizza, you should: 1. Be sure the baking-pan temperature is at least 260°C (500°F). 2. Do not bake the pizza in the oven for more than 2 minutes. 3. Once you've baked the pizza, leave it in the dish for a few seconds before slicing it. In this way the dough will re-absorb some of the moisture from the top. (Now you can clearly see the importance of not having prepared a too dense of a tomato sauce.)

NOTE: In order not to run into these problems again (or if you have made some changes to the roadmap I have given you,) then my suggestion is to keep your own notes on the FREE “Experimenter's Form”. In this way, you’ll be able to keep tabs on what you have changed along the way. However, by following my roadmap, which has taken me several years to 120

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fine-tune, I’m sure you will achieve that authentic Neapolitan pizza you have been searching for.

I WISH YOU LOTS OF FUN!!! AND ENJOY THAT TASTY NEAPOLITAN PIZZA!!!

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FLOUR GUIDE CORRECT FLOUR IS MAGICAL

You are now going to discover one of the secrets to make authentic Neapolitan pizza. This secret is in the selection of the flour you’ll be using. I will guide you to know the characteristics/parameters on how to choose the correct flour specifically for pizza. Did you know that the right flour is magical in pizza making?

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INDEX – FLOUR GUIDE THE CHARACTERISTICS/PARAMETERS TO LOOK FOR ........................... 125 1.

TYPE OF FLOUR (OR ASH CONTENT) ......................................... 125

2.

STRENGTH (DESIGNATED BY: “W”) .......................................... 126

3.

PROTEIN CONTENT ................................................................... 128

4.

ELASTICITY “P/L” ....................................................................... 128

5.

ABSORPTION............................................................................. 129

6.

STABILITY .................................................................................. 129

7.

FALLING NUMBER..................................................................... 130

SOME ITALIAN BRANDS OF FLOURS.................................................... 130 SUMMARY ........................................................................................ 133

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THE CHARACTERISTICS/PARAMETERS TO LOOK FOR In the year 2010 Neapolitan pizza obtained “Traditional Specialty Guaranteed” (T.S.G.). This means its production process is strictly determined by an official Regulation. This Regulation states that the flour to be used in making pizza must have the following characteristics and parameters.

CHARACTERISTICS TIPO (Type) W (Strength) PROTEINE (Protein content) P/L (Elasticity) ASSORBIMENTO (Absorption) STABILITÀ (Stability) FALLING NUMBER

PARAMETERS "00" / "0" 220 - 380 11% - 12.5% 0.50 - 0.70 55% – 62% 4 – 12 min 300 – 400 sec

If you would like to have advice on some brands that I have personally tested, go to page 131. Let me explain further the meaning of these characteristics in the following pages.

1. TYPE OF FLOUR (OR ASH CONTENT) Italy classifies flour according to the degree on how much refining has been done to it. Refining the flour means removing the bran (the outer coating of

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the grain.) The "traces of bran" are quantified by measuring the percentage of ashes in the flour. But what are these ashes? Ashes are the mineral salts left in the flour when burned for 6 hours at 550°C (1022°F). Mineral salts, in fact, don’t burn and are mainly concentrated in the bran. In this manner they are used in classifying the flour by types. If the type of flour (i.e. type"00" or type"0”) is not specified on the label, then refer to the ash content. To make pizza, type"00" or type"0" flour is needed. It is equivalent to a maximum ash content of 0.55% (type “00”) and 0.65% (type “0”).

2. STRENGTH (DESIGNATED BY: “W”) The flour strength is shown with the letter "W". The stronger the flour, the more it will be: •

Able to absorb water.

•

Suitable for long leavening processes.

•

Able to retain carbon dioxide, a natural by-product of the leavening process. 126

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The flour strength is roughly classified into 4 groups: •

Weak flours (< 170 “W”) (less than 170 “W”): they are used for products that require a short leavening period, like breadsticks, biscuits and pastries. These flours are able to absorb an amount of water around 50% of its own weight.

•

Medium strength flours (180 -260 “W”): they are used for medium-leavening products. These flours are able to absorb an amount of water between 55% and 65% of its own weight.

•

Strong flours (270 – 350 “W”): they are used for some types of breads and products with high leavening processes particularly such as “pandoro”, “panettone”, croissants. They absorb between 65% and 75% of water.

•

Manitoba (> 350 “W”) (higher than 170 “W”): they owe their name to the Canadian region of Manitoba, where a variety of wheat was originally cultivated. They are highstrength flours. They are usually mixed with other flours in order to increase their strength, and are used for long leavening processes. They can absorb up to 90% of water.

Even though the Regulation states that you could use a flour with “W” between 220 and 380, from my own experience, I suggest that you use a flour with a “W” between 260-280.

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3. PROTEIN CONTENT Generally, the higher the protein content, the stronger is the flour. In wheat flours the protein content is a confirmation as to the strength of the parameter “W”. If the strength is not specified on the label, make sure the flour has at least a protein content between 11% and 12.5%.

4. ELASTICITY “P/L” The "P/L" characteristic becomes important when establishing and foreseeing how much your dough will be elastic. A well-balanced characteristic of dough has a “P/L” equal to 0.5. That means: •

If the “P/L” < 0.5 (less than 0.5) the dough will have low elasticity, it will be very pliable and it could easily rip.

•

If “P/L” = 0.5 (is 0.5) the dough will have average elasticity, it will be resilient enough but at the same time easy to stretch.

•

If “P/L” > 0.5 (more than 0.5) the dough will have high elasticity: it will be firm and will tend to spring back to its original shape.

For Neapolitan pizza, you must have a “P/L” between 0.5 and 0.7. This means your dough will stretch easily and at the same time will most likely not tear. 128

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5. ABSORPTION You can also read on the label of the flour its ability to absorb water, usually expressed as a percentage of weight. For Neapolitan pizza the absorption should vary between 55% and 62%.

6. STABILITY Kneading for too long can make the dough lose consistency and softens. Stability shows the kneading time, after which, the dough starts to break down. The stronger the flour, the longer its stability time. Generally speaking: •

a weak flour has a stability time of < 10 minutes (less than 10 minutes,)

•

a medium strength flour has a stability time between 10 and 16 minutes,

•

a strong flour has a stability time that can reach as far as 20 minutes or more.

The Regulation for Neapolitan pizza, suggests flours to have a stability time between 4 and 12 min. My suggestion is to choose a flour with at least 10 minutes stability time.

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7. FALLING NUMBER The sugars available in the flour are the "fuel" in the fermentation process (food for yeast.) Sugars are mostly derived from the action of some enzymes (called "amylase," already present in the grain.) The Falling Number is a parameter that tells us how "fast" these enzymes react: •

< 200 seconds (less than 200 sec.) The enzymes are very active: the leavening will be quick; the dough could lose the airbubbles and collapse on itself. When this happens the finishedproduct will have a damp and sticky inner structure.

•

= 250 seconds (equal to 250 sec.) The flour has a wellbalanced value.

•

> 300 seconds (greater than 300 sec.) Enzymes are not very active, leavening will be slower and you may get a flat product, dry and with a compact inner structure. The recommended flour for Neapolitan pizza, requires a long leavening period, it needs a Falling Number between 300 and 400 seconds.

SOME ITALIAN BRANDS of FLOURS In all the years I’ve been making pizza, I have both bought flours available at my local supermarkets and ordered professional flours on-line. 130

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The following are the ones that have given me the best results. If you can’t find these brands or other equivalent professional ones in your country, then I suggest you use wheat all-purpose flour. If you have doubt, send me a photo of the label of your flour at [email protected], and I'll be happy to help you as possible :-)

Garofalo “Tutto il buono della farina – W 260” (translation: “All the goodness of flour – W260”.) At the moment, this is the flour for general use with the most complete label. I have tried it and I think it's very good, comparable to professional flours.

Polselli “Classica.” It is very famous brand among pizza makers. It is also sold in 1 kg and 5 kg packs. I suggest you the “Classica” label. Compared to other flours, when I use it, I get a dough richer in bubbles.

Caputo “Pizzeria.” Perhaps one of the most used flours in pizzerias. I recommend using the "Pizzeria" label, however, for what I know, it’s sold in 25 kg and 1 kg packs.

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Molino Quaglia “Petra 3.” It is a very cutting-edge company in grain selection and milling technology. They produce a great variety of flours, but I suggest that you try their label, “Petra 3”.

It’s time to go make your pizza! Select a suitable flour and let’s start having fun!!! BYE, FOR NOW!!!

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SUMMARY In order to make an authentic Neapolitan pizza, flour with the following characteristics must be used: CHARACTERISTICS TIPO (Type) W (Strength) PROTEINE (Protein content) P/L (Elasticity) ASSORBIMENTO (Absorption) STABILITÀ (Stability) FALLING NUMBER

PARAMETERS "00" / "0" 220 - 380 11% - 12.5% 0.50 - 0.70 55% – 62% 4 – 12 min 300 – 400 sec

If you would like to have advice on some brands that I have personally tested, go to page 131.

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