Hokule'a: The Way to Tahiti 0396077196

Table of contents :
Contents

PART ONE
1 The Launching 3
2 Polynesian Voyaging 7
3 Star of Joy 18
4 Spaceship of the Ancestors 27
5 Hanalei Bay 39
6 “A Very Fortunate Accident” 47
7 Kawika 54
8 Mau 59
9 Grumbling and Dissension 66
10 Setting to Right 76
11 Radicals and Patriots 83
12 Maui 92

PART TWO
13 North 101
14 Rescue 110
15 Southeast 113
16 Sailing by the Stars 119
17 No Problem 129
18 A Little Night Music 135
19 Weather Helm 140
20 Andrew Sharp Nights 144
21 Hidden Cargo 148
22 Offerings to the Sea God 153
23 A Makeshift Jib 157
24 Through a Curtain of Rain 163
25 Doldrums 172
26 The Gang 183
27 Head Winds 191
28 Lost on the Great Ocean 204
29 Bioluminescence 210
30 Zenith Star 212
31 Northeast Is the Wind 217
32 The Nine Sentinels 228
33 “A Dangerous Gift” 240

PART THREE
34 Tahiti 251
35 Unforeseen Departures 258
36 Renewal 265
37 Return to Green-Clad Hawaii 270
38 Ata Sacred Temple 278

Appendixes 287
Acknowledgments 303
Index 309

Citation preview

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Ben RK. Finney Finney Ben R. In In 1976 there occurred occurred one one ofof the the most most daring and unusual voyages of daring of modern times—the sailing of of aa reconstruction reconstruction of of an ancient ancient double-hull double-hull Polynesian Polynesian canoe with aa full full crew crew aboard aboard from from Hawaii to Tahiti Tahiti and and return, return, covering covering aa distance of of almost almost 6000 6000 miles. miles. AA dedidedicated group of of scientists, scientists, sailors, sailors, and and other volunteers, led by the had other led by the author, had

for for years worked on this this project, project, the the obobject of which was ject was toto retrace retrace the the leglegendary voyages that endary that once once linked linked those those far-flung islands and in in doing doing soso demdemonstrate to to skeptics skeptics that that the the ancient ancient Polynesians could have have intentionally intentionally sailed across vast stretches stretches of of the the Pacific Pacific without navigational instruments when most seafaring peoples were still still hughugging continental shores. ging But the attempt toto have But have the the voyage voyage also serve as a focus for Polynesian also serve a focus for Polynesian cultural revival revival set cultural set the the double-canoe double-canoe Hokule’a adrift in a sea Hokule'a adrift a sea ofof jealousy jealousy and and resentment that threatened to to wreck wreck the the project before before the the actual sailing project sailing date. date. When When atat long long last last the the voyage voyage toto Tahiti Tahiti began, it was the start began, it was the start ofof 3434 days days ofof grueling sailing sailing against grueling against wind and current, of suspense rent, of suspense over finding land land without and of problem without instruments, and of problem eded byby despairing after proble proble: despairing ing filmmakers. crewmen and and ' terforing filmmakers. InIn spite of } theyi they made made it to it to spite of these ¢ « Tahiti, enjoyed h-long welcomTahiti, h-long welcom(continu (continus

.

flap) flap)

HOKULE‘A: A: The The Way to Tahiti Way to Tahiti

HOKULEA ipl@ISEIE TR A The Way to The Way to Tahiti Tahiti BENGR. EUNINEN BEN FINNEY

Illustrations by by Richard Rhodes

Photographs by by Francis Wandell and Finney and Ben Ben R. R. Finney

DODD,

MEAD

&& COMPANY NEW

YORK YORK

PHOTOGRAPH CREDITS ProTOoGRAPH

pages 3, 5, 36, 36, 105, 252, 254, 254, 255, 282 Photographs on pages 105, 252, 255, 267, 267, 282 by by Francis Wandell ©© Francis Wandell International Society Society of of Islands.

Photographs on pages pages 73, by Ben Ben R. R. Finney. Finney. 73, 137, 137, 193, 193, 238 238 by

All color supplement, except All photographs in in color except those on second and and third pages, by Society of by Francis Francis Wandell Wandell © © Francis Francis Wandell Wandell International International Society of Islands. Islands. Photographs on second and and third third pages pages of of color color supplement by by Ben Ben R. R. Finney. Finney.

Copyright ©© 1979 by by Ben R. Finney Finney Ben R.

All reserved All rights rights reserved No part of of this this book book may be be reproduced in No part in any form without permission in writing from from the publisher in writing the publisher Printed in in the the United States of of America

12345678910 Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data Library of in Publication

Finney, Ben RR Finney, Ben Hokule‘a: the way to Tahiti. Hokulea: the way to Tahiti. Includes index.

1. Hokule‘a (Canoe) 1. Hokule'a

2.2. Voyages and travels—

19513. 1951 3. Pacific Ocean. 1.I. Title. Title. G477.F48 910’.45 G477.F48 91045 79-9410 ISBN 0-396-07719-6

Designed Sidney Feinberg Feinberg Designed by by Sidney

FOr Q10,4 as iRatt 1

Y

S. S. F. F. PUBLIC LIBRARY

“Hots He13

This to all all who who helped helped This book book is is dedicated to make the voyage of Hokule‘a possible. make the of Hokule'a possible.

Digitized the Digitized by by the 2022 with inin 2022 with Kahle/Austin

Internet Archive funding from funding from Foundation

https://archive.org/details/hokuleawaytotahi000Ofinn https://archive.org/details/hokuleawaytotahi0000finn

Preface Preface The following The following pages recount a story storv that that II have have found most diffidifficult to tell. at once aa tale cult to tell. It It is is at tale of of a long long and and demanding demanding experiexperivovage, and and of of aa troubled attempt attempt at at cultural revival that that mental voyage, threatened to voyage. In to scuttle that that vovage. In order to to tell tell it it fully fully II must therefore re-create certain painful painful incidents, and and revive passionate words spoken words spoken in in the the heat heat of of confrontation, which which some might might prefer and forgotten. forgotten. prefer were buried and ' Much of of the the trouble came from groups and and individuals who, who, proclaiming the Hawaiian proclaiming that that they they were acting acting in in the the name of of the people, challenged people, challenged the the plans plans for for the the voyage and and attempted to to turn the the canoe Hokule‘a Hokule a to to their their own ends. ends. While many many Hawaiians have repudiated repudiated what what was said and done, done, what what happened happened on have said and shore before we left, left, and the high high seas, must be be told shore and on the told for for the the reader to understand the reader to the voyage and and also also to to comprehend the the social conditions of social of modern Hawaii from from which those protests protests to the of sailing arose. However inappropriate to the task task of sailing to to Tahiti those protests protests were, from from another perspective they those they were the the cries of people who of anguish anguish of of aa people who in in two centuries of of foreign foreign contact and have been and domination have been transformed from from an independent nation to dependent minoritv. minority. II have to a dependent have thus thus tried tried to to document

the the protests protests as faithfully faithfullv as IT can, relying relying where possible possible on tape tape recordings, recordings, as well well as as on notes and and recollections, to to re-create the the words as spoken spoken and and the the circumstances in in which Wh](?h they they were uttered. Furthermore, II have tried tried to to place place what was said said and and done within the context of modern Hawaii to show how problems done the of modern to show how problems vii vii

viii viti

Preface Preface

and tensions resulting and resulting from from the the subjugation subjugation of of the the Hawaiian people contributed to to the the trials people trials which all all of of us, us, Hawaiians and and non-Hawaiians alike, through to to sail sail Hokule‘a Hokule’a over the the alike, went through legendary and Tahiti. Tabhiti. legendary voyaging route linking linking Hawaii and BEN R. Ben R. FINNEY FINNEY

Contents PART

ONE

=

Star of of Joy Joy

i7

18 18 Spaceship the Ancestors Spaceship of of the

Ut

Polynesian Polynesian Voyaging

Bay Hanalei Bay

&

O

33

O

The Launching Launching The

“A Very Very Fortunate Accident” “A

0

Mau

39 39

59 59

and Dissension and

O

Oo Grumbling

-

11 Radicals and and Patriots o

—

66 66

76 76

O

10 Setting Setting to to Right Right 12 Maui

47 47

54 54

=1

or No NW Kawika ©

27 27

83 83

92 92

PALI PARTIE AMO TWO

13 North 13

101 101

14 Rescue 14

15 Southeast 15

110 110

113 113

16 Sailing by the the Stars 16 Sailing by 17 No No Problem 17

119 119

129 129

18 Night Music Music 18 AA Little Little Night

135 135 ix

xx

Contents

Helm 19 Weather Ielm 19

140 140

Sharp Nights Nights 20 Andrew Sharp 20

144 144

Cargo 148 21 Hidden Cargo 21 148 Offerings to to the the Sea Sea God 22 22 Offerings

Jib 23 AA Makeshift Jib 23

153 153

157 157

Through aa Curtain of of Rain 24 24 Through 172 25 Doldrums 25 172 The Gang Gang 183 26 The 26 183 27 Head Winds 27

163 163

191 191

Lost on the the Great Ocean 28 Lost 28

29 Bioluminescence 29 30 Zenith Star 30 Star

204 204

210 210

VAD? 212

31 Northeast IsIs the 31 the Wind

Palys 217

32 The The Nine Sentinels 32

228 228

33 “A “A Dangerous Gift” Gift” 33

240 240

LPAITP THREE PART

34 Tahiti 34

oP 251

35 Unforeseen Departures 35 36 Renewal 265 36 265

258 258

37 Return to 37 to Green-Clad Hawaii 38 Ata Sacred Temple 38 Temple

Appendixes

287 287

Acknowledgments Index Index

309 309

278 278

303

270 270

Ewe PART

1el

|

ml

I1 The Launching The Launching “E Ho‘'omakaukau!” “E Ho‘omakaukau!” The first first preparatory command: “Make ready!” ready!” The Those to be the first first to to take take the out to to sea Those chosen to be the the canoe out

tighten their grip on the the curving curving sterns of of the the twin hulls. hulls. Those tighten their grip manning the lines dig dig their their feet the sand and lean lean manning the hauling hauling lines feet into into the sand and back, testing the the weight resting on back, testing weight of of the the massive double-canoe resting the rise rise of of the the beach beach above them. the “E alulike!” “E The out the the second and final final preparatory The master chanter shouts out second and command: “Pull “Pull together!” together!”

44

HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way to to Tahiti The

Everyone—crew, haulers and and spectators—waits tensely the tensely for for the hauling chant to to begin. hauling begin. “Ki au, ki ki au au “Ki au au, Huki au au, huki...” Huki au, huki . ..” There isis no need need to to finish the chant, chant, for for the the canoe literally literally There finish the flies the beach beach and and into the water, water, all all 60 60 feet and 66 tons of of flies down down the into the feet and her. The The stunned crowd crowd remains mute for for aa moment, then out her. then lets lets out aa spontaneous cheer. cheer. The crew, followed by by the and his his attendants, attendants, mount The the master and

the floating canoe and and take take their places. Twenty-four paddles paddles the now floating their places. plunge into the water as one. As As the moving out out toto plunge into the the canoe starts moving sea, to the who will look after the sea, the the chant chant to the spirits spirits who will hereafter look after the vessel begins. begins. vessel Once from shore, shore, the Once well well out out from the steersman gives gives the the order order to to turn around and and head head back. back. As sand beach beach crowned As the the white white sand crowned by by green-clad swings into into view, basket woven from from green-clad mountains swings view, aa basket coconut leaves off the It contains the of aa leaves is is thrown off the stern. It the bones bones of black pig pig and special variety variety of and the of other other black and of of aa special of fish fish and the remains of foods from from aa consecrated meal chosen foods meal consumed by by the the crew during the launching All aboard aboard are warned not not to to during the launching ceremony. All look back before before reaching the canoe be look back reaching shore shore lest lest the be forever cursed. As the the canoe approaches the the beach, strange sound rolls As beach, aa strange sound rolls ahead of it, aa mixture of full Polynesian Polynesian voices and of it, of full and what what seems to at first the beating huge drums. The ritual leaders leaders are to be be at first the beating of of huge The ritual

chanting; each line line by by rapping rapping their chanting; the the crew isis punctuating each their paddles sharply against against the the hollow hulls. paddles sharply hollow hulls. When the the sand, the master chanter alone alone When the canoe touches the sand, the ashore. Turning, Turning, he he asks asks of of those those still still on board, board, “Pehea ka comes ashore. ka waa, anei?” wa'a, pono pono anei?” The “How isis the the canoe, isis itit right?” The ritual ritual interrogation: “How right?” ““Ae, e maikai loa ka wa‘a Hokule‘a!” comes back “‘Ae, e maika’i loa ka wa'a Hokule’a” back the the confident reply: reply: “Yes, the canoe Hokule‘a fident “Yes, the Hokule'a is is indeed good!” good!” The fully blessed and and ready ready for for service. The The canoe is is now fully The

women

join their previously can join their men, even climb aboard the the previously

taboo craft, and the the dancing dancing and feasting can begin. begin. taboo craft, and and feasting

The Launching The Launching

Ben Finney, Kane, and Kenneth Ben Finney, Herh Herb Kane, and Kenneth Ka‘upena Wong at Ka‘upena Wong at launching launching

Emory Emory

with master with

55

chanter chanter

This scene might might well have taken This well have taken place place on some isolated shore many manyv centuries ago. ago. But the year the Hawaiian shore But the year was 1975, 1975, the site was aa beach park aa half-hour’s drive drive along along aa crowded freeway freeway site beach park from busv busy Honolulu, Honolulu, and and the the canoe was aa modern reconstruction from of voyaging craft. The following following year, in 1976, of an ancient voyaging craft. The year, in 1976, we planned to to sail sail her from Hawaii toto Tahiti and back back along along aa curved planned her from Tahiti and that would take us over almost 6,000 nautical miles® course that would take almost 6,000 miles* of of blue water, blue water, navigating without charts, charts, compass or or other instruments. Our to retrace the the legendary legendary voyages that Our object object was to that once linked far-flung islands islands and, in so doing, demonstrate to linked those those far-flung and, in so doing, to skeptics the ancient Polynesians Polynesians could could have have intentionally intentionally skeptics that that the

sailed across vast stretches of open ocean at of open at aa time when when most almost 6,900 6,900 statute miles, distance greater that between between New New *® Or, Or, almost miles, aa distance greater than than that York and in this miles. One York and Cairo. Distances quoted quoted in this book are in in nautical miles. One hundred

equals 115 miles. nautical miles miles equals 115 statute miles.

66

HOKULE‘A: HOKULE'A:

The Way Way to to Tahiti Tahiti The

other peoples were still other seafaring seafaring peoples still hugging hugging continental shores. shores.

But the the voyage was designed than an experiment. But designed toto be be more than deep-sea sailing of two ItIt was the the voyaging canoe—a deep-sea sailing craft craft made of long, narrow hulls hulls joined by crossbeams lashed in place with with long, joined by in place coconut

fiber fiber

line—that

enabled

the the

ancient

Polynesians Polynesians

to to

explore and and settle settle their their vast oceanic world. We explore We hoped hoped that that our effort to voyaging canoe, and sail itit over aa effort to reconstruct aa voyaging and then then sail in chant and also serve traditional route celebrated in and legend, legend, would would also the cause of of Polynesian make Hawaiians, the Polynesian cultural revival—would make and other other Polynesians Polynesians whose cultural identity identity has has become blurred and in modern times, know and and better great maritime in times, know better appreciate the the great achievements of of their Age ancestors. Hence the the attention their Stone Age to detail in the carefully carefully researched and and rehearsed to cultural detail in the the long-extinct long-extinct Hawaiian canoe launching launching ritual. re-creation of of the Little did we know know that, that, within the the context of of modern modern Hawaii, Hawaii, to Little did to join cultural revival with with experimental voyaging to create an join voyaging was to explosive and that so seemingly explosive mixture, and that even so seemingly innocent an effort effort in aa culturally as trying trying toto launch launch the the canoe in culturally appropriate way way had had tapped into into aa reservoir of of jealousy and long-repressed resentments tapped jealousy and that would would threaten toto keep from ever sailing sailing toto Tabhiti. Tahiti. that keep us from

Many of of us worked together plan the the project, project, and then to to Many together to to plan and then build and and to to launch the Still more were to in for for the the build the canoe. Still to join join in voyage itself. itself. For For each of us, us, this of cultural voyage each of this troubled combination of

signifirevival and and experimental voyaging would have have its its own signifiand its its own starting starting point. point. For For me, the tale begins with cance, and me, the tale begins with the the study of ancient Polynesian Polynesian migrations, migrations, and and the study of the modern conhow they accomplished. troversies over how they were accomplished.

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Polynesian Voyaging Polynesian Voyaging Five thousand or more years left Five years ago, ago, small small groups groups ofof seafarers left the protected waters of the Indonesian archipelago off the souththe protected of the archipelago off the east tip tip of of Asia Asia and and pointed pointed

their their canoes

toward

the the ocean

expanses to the east. In the many generations of wandering that that expanses to the east. In the many generations of wandering followed, migration swept the followed, this this migration swept across the shores of the Americas. Hardly an island shores of the Hardly island implanted on practically practically every every island were implanted island of this this greatest of of oceans. of

Pacific Pacific almost to to the the was missed; missed; colonies that broke broke the the surface that

Among these these seafarers one group all others: Among group stands out above all the Polynesians. They they discovered and the They went the the farthest; farthest; they and settled more islands. Fragments of chips ofof of long-broken pots, pots, chips volcanic glass once used as cutting cutting tools tools and the evidence of of volcanjc glass used as and the related languages languages mark their trail along the islands north of New mark their trail along the north of New Guinea and through those of this this great great island island to and through those immediately immediately east of to the archipelagoes of of Tonga Tonga and the mid-Pacific archipelagoes and Samoa. These fertile but previously uninhabited islands, which radiocarbon dating dating but previously islands, which

indicates were reached by 3.c., provided resting place place for for by 1100 B.c., provided a resting these these

wanderers.

There

in in the the centuries

that that followed

they they

7re

88

HOKULE‘A:

The Way The Way to to Tahiti Tahiti

developed Polynesian language and culture that that developed that that distinctively Polynesian language and their to spread realm. their descendants were to spread over aa vast ocean realm. After aa millennium-long pause pause in mid-Pacific, the PolyAfter in the the mid-Pacific, the Polynesians resumed their their voyaging, voyaging, pointing pointing their canoes once more their to the the east. Within aa few few centuries of of the the time of of Christ Christ they had to they had

crossed 2,000 miles of open ocean toto settle 2,000 miles of open settle inin the the Marquesas of the they did not rest Islands of the eastern Pacific. Pacific. But But they did not rest there. there. They They kept the other relakept sailing, sailing, searching searching for for new lands. lands. Tahiti Tahiti and and the other relatively early. Well tively close islands were settled early. Well before this this new millennium was over, Polynesian Polynesian voyagers had had reached the the distant islands of the north, off the South of Hawaii in in the north, tiny tiny Easter Easter Island off the South American coast to the southeast, southeast, and and the the massive islands of New to the islands of New Zealand to to the the southwest. These form the the points the Polynesian Polynesian These last last three settlements form points ofof the

triangle, aa huge huge section ofof the projected onto the the triangle, the world that, that, if if projected side of the globe, Europe and other side of the globe, would include most ofof Europe and Asia. Another thousand years years later, later, when Europeans Europeans developed their their and ventured out out into the Pacific, Pacific, they they were own seafaring seafaring skills skills and into the to find find as they they “discovered” island within astonished to island after after island island within this oceanic expanse that that already already living each one was aa thrivthriythis living on each ing community of of the the same tall tall and ing and robust robust race. Upon Upon recognizing recognizing the realm, European European geographers named it | the extent of of this this oceanic realm, geographers named Polynesia, using words meaning meaning “many Polynesia, using the the Greek words “many islands.” Their Their known as as Polynesians. inhabitants thus thus came to to be be known Polynesians. Rendering Rendering this this as the “People of Many Islands” captures some of term as the “People of the the Many of the the

felt by by early early European European explorers explorers when when thev they realized that wonder felt that sailing in slim canoes and and navigating Stone Age Age voyagers sailing in slim nav 1gat1ng without had preceded preceded them into the and had had settled instruments had them into the Pacific Pacific and settled virtually every every volcanic island island and coral atoll in aa vast oceanic virtually and coral atoll in world. world. Hawaii was the the most remote of of the the Polynesian Polvnesian settlements, lying well well north of the the equator equator almost as far from other Polynesian lying north of far from other Polynesian

as from from the and North America. Yet centers as the shores of of Asia Asia and Yet these these did reach reach there. Captain James voyagers did there. When Captain James Cook Cook chanced upon Hawaii in in 1778, found over aa quarter quarter million million Polynesians upon 1778, he he found Polynesians living on the of the the group. Their living the eight eight main islands of Their ancestors had had a.p. 500 500 say who have excavated arrived around 4.p. say the the archaeologists who have excavated

Polynesian Polynesian Voyaging

*®a ae

99

Hawai Hawaq

TUAMOTU TUAMOTY

(S (S

/

TARITH

NEW ZEALAND,

The Polynesian Polynesian Triangle Triangle The the the first first Hawaiians. Fishhooks made made the coastal settlements of of the from from bone bone and and shell, shell, stone adze adze blades and and other other artifacts found found in that these in the the lowest layers layers of of these these ancient settlements show show that these early early settlers came from Polynesian Polynesian islands below below the the equator— the being the the main candidates being the Marquesas, 1,800 1,800 miles miles to to the the southeast, southeast, and and Tahiti, Tahiti, over 2,300 2,300 miles miles to to the the south-southeast. Hawaiian traditions are hazy hazy as to to exactly exactly which island or islands the from. However, aa number of the first first Hawaiians came from. of chants the later chants and and legends legends tell tell of of the later arrival of of Tahitian seafarers and exploits of and celebrate the the exploits of aa series of of chiefs chiefs who who sailed sailed back back and in the and forth forth between the the two two centers in the 12th 12th and and 18th 13th centuries, centuries,

10 10

HOKULE‘A:

The Way Tahiti The Way to to Tahiti

why is why That is as dated by the traditions. That in the by genealogies contained in built our double-canoe Hokule‘a* —to retrace those legendary those legendary Hokule'a®—to we built two-way two-way voyages. We also well as an adventure. Late to pursue, as well had a cause to also had We 19th-century and and interpreters compilers and early 20th-century compilers and early of the tales and epics and other Polynesian migratory epics the Tahiti-Hawaii tales of had gone great fleets of great in constructing romantic visions of far in too far gone too had of giant the who “explored the by heroic navigators who giant canoes manned by of exagtheir exagthe 1950s their By the Pacific as aa European would aa lake.” By gerated of Polynesian voyaging capabilities were coming gerated notions of under heavy heavy criticism. But, But, as so often such conin such happens in often happens troversies, the legends the legends They dismissed the far. They skeptics went too far. the skeptics as fabrications; declared Polynesian be unseaworthy to be Polynesian canoes to

for and decreed that to it was impossible to that it planned voyages; and long, planned for long, navigate open ocean without of open miles of few hundred miles than a few navigate more than

a compass, sextant and equally unknown aids equally and other navigational aids to the ancient Polynesians. By By sailing sailing from and to Tahiti and from Hawaii to to the back, the whole distance without instruments, we navigating the and navigating back, and

wanted to skeptics were. to demonstrate how wrong those skeptics Thor widely the most widely of Kon-Tiki fame became the Heyerdahl of Thor Heyerdahl

from trip from raft trip his 1947 raft After his of Polynesian voyaging. After known critic of South published he published Polynesia, he of Polynesia, the Tuamotu islands of to the South America to American Indians in the Pacific, a massive book in which he he in in the Pacific, a argued that Polynesia that the west; that the east not the from the Polynesia was settled from argued that the first Polynesians arrived by by and by South America and from South raft from by raft the first

dugout logic theory was aa logic his theory to his dugout canoe from North America. Basic to that seamanship. Primitive and seamanship. Polynesian canoes and that downgraded Polynesian man, Heyerdahl reasoned, wind the wind with the only with sail only reasoned, could sail prevailing trade winds The prevailing them. The against them. current, never against

and and and and

equatorial currents of of the to west—from from east to flow from the Pacific flow * Hoh-koo-lay-‘ah. The The inverted comma (‘) (‘) stands for for the the glottal glottal stop, stop, a and other Polynesian consonant that that occurs frequently frequently before vowels in in Hawaiian and English speakers naturally make the say the languages. English speakers can naturally the glottal glottal stop: stop: say the letters of of rapidly and find that radio station WEEI rapidly and you you will will find that you you automatically stop stop the the flow of air air in your throat by of in your by momentarily closing closing your your glottus glottus before pronouncing each vowel, and say WEE’. vowel, and thus thus really really say WEE'L A A glottal glottal stop stop occurs in in Hawai‘i, Hawai'i, but but following this and convention itit isis not shown in in this and other geographical names, except except where as for example: Hah-waee-‘ee. rendered phonetically, as for example: Hah-waee-‘ee.

Polynesian Voyaging

11 11

North and and South America

toward Asia, Asia, not vice versa. Thus Polynesian Polynesian seafarers, whom he he judged judged to to be be primitive, could could from Indonesia sailed their their canoes from never have have sailed from west to to east, east, from To Heyerdahl, Heyerdahl, the to to Polynesia. Polynesia. To the capacity capacity to to sail sail across the the ocean

against wind and current was a later, European development. against later, European wind and The The first first settlers settlers of of Polynesia Polynesia must therefore have have come from from the the Americas, drifting drifting before the the current and and the the trade trade winds. Within the the scientific community hardly hardly anyone believed theory. II found Heyerdahl’s theory. found that that out when, when, after after finishing finishing aa tour of duty duty in the Navy, of in the Navy, II began began graduate graduate studies in in anthropology at at the University of Hawaii. The The language language of of the the University of the Polynesians, their their

(including the artifacts (including the essential voyaging voyaging canoe canoe )) and and other basic elements of from Southeast Asia, of Polynesian Polynesian culture came from Asia, not not the the Americas. Another new theory, that held theory, one that held that that Polynesia Polynesia was settled by “accident,” “accident,” was gaining by gaining wide wide acceptance in in academic circles. The of this this theory, The author author of theory, aa retired New Zealand civil civil servant named Andrew Sharp, proposed that the many islands of Polynesia Polynesia named Sharp, proposed that the many of had been through aa long long series of had been colonized through of accidents: primarily primarily by aa succession of loads of of islanders who by of canoe loads who were drifting drifting helplessly after after losing losing their their way of helplessly way because ofof a storm or because of up on uninhabited navigational error, and and who who by by chance fetched up shores; exiles who, after being shores; plus plus aa few few canoe loads loads of of exiles who, after being driven from their their homeland by from by war or famine, famine, let let the the winds winds and and currents

push them them about in that they they would happen push in hopes hopes that happen upon some new theory was orthodox in in that that it the accepted accepted island. Sharp’s Sharp’s theory it stuck stuck toto the view that settlement had had proceeded view that proceeded from from west to to east, east, but but its its major from his his skillful debunking of the the exaggerated major appeal appeal came from debunking of

and his vision ofof an heroic age age ofof Polynesian voyaging, voyaging, and his dismissal of Polynesian canoes and and navigation as inadequate inadequate for of Polynesian navigation methods as for the task task of of planned planned voyages of exploration and and colonization the of exploration assigned to to them them by by the the romantic interpreters of of Polynesian Polynesian assigned legend. To To those those scholars who always found the the idea legend. who had had always idea ofof navigating without without instruments over thousands of of miles of open navigating miles of open

theory was Sharp’s accidental theory in little little canoes unbelievable, Sharp’s ocean in most believable.

basic theory reflected a basic of Sharp’s Sharp’s theory appeal of the appeal part the In large part In large

12 12

HOKULE‘A: HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way toto Tahiti The

fact: most scholars fact: scholars are are landlubbers landlubbers toto whom whom thethe ocean, ocean, and and especially especially the idea idea of of sailing sailing across across itit inin anything anything less less than than the the most modern modern craft navigated by the latest methods, is alien. They by the is alien. They could not could not accept accept the the possibility possibility that that Polynesians Polynesians could could have have developed developed an ocean-voyaging technology technology independent independent from from that that

which evolved inin Europe which Europe (with (with borrowings borrowings from from the the Chinese Chinese and the Arabs). Nor could they grasp that the Polynesians and Nor could they grasp that the Polynesians might might have had had aa uniquely have uniquely ocean-oriented ocean-oriented world world view—that view—that toto PolyPolynesians the world world was was an an ocean, ocean, anan ocean ocean over over which which one one sailed sailed to to reach islands islands that that must, must, according according toto Polynesian Polynesian logic, logic, bebe there. there. The The notion that that Polynesians Polynesians would would deliberately deliberately sail sail out out against against wind and and current to to settle settle unknown unknown and and uncharted uncharted islands islands was absurd toto them, them, for for they they failed failed toto realize realize that that voyaging voyaging

experience accumulated over so many many generations generations of of movement from Southeast Asia, from Asia, past past New New Guinea Guinea and and through through the the other other Melanesian Islands told told the the Polynesians Polynesians that that by by continuing continuing toto sail sail to the east, to windward, they would find more new islands, to east, to windward, they would find more new islands, uninhabited ones inviting settlement. settlement. Sharp was asas European-centered Sharp European-centered inin his his thinking thinking as as waswas Heyerdahl. Europeans Europeans could could sail across Heyerdahl. across the the Pacific Pacific and and navigate navigate accurately from from one one island island to accurately to another another because because ofof their their superior superior

technology. They They had had large large and and sturdy sturdy ships ships with with deep deep keels technology. keels and sophisticated sails; sails; and and they they had had the sophisticated the compass, sextant, sextant, chronomchronometer and all the other instruments and aids that enabled them to to eter and all the other instruments and aids that enabled them calculate their their exact exact position position and and chart an calculate an accurate accurate course. course. The The

Polynesians had had none none ofof these. these. To To Sharp, Sharp, their their canoes were fragile Polynesians fragile craft, made made ofof bits bits ofof wood wood sewn sewn and and lashed lashed together together with with sennit sennit craft, braided from from coconut coconut fiber instead braided instead of of being being securely securely fastened fastened with metal metal nails nails and and screws. Because the canoes with canoes had had aa low low freefreeboard, they they were were in in constant danger danger of board, of swamping; because they they lacked deep keels, centerboards or a modern sail rig, they could lacked deep keels, centerboards a modern sail rig, they could not sail sail toto windward. windward. Above Above all, not all, Sharp Sharp maintained that that without without instruments Polynesian Polynesian navigators navigators could could never have have been instruments been able able to to their position position atat sea sea or or steer an fixfix their an accurate accurate course. course. Therefore Therefore

planned voyaging voyaging over over long long distances distances was out planned out of of the the question. question. Sharp had had to Sharp to admit, of of course, that that long, long, one-way one-way voyages voyages had had occurred. He He claimed claimed that that once once aa drifting occurred. drifting canoe had chanced on on

Polynesian Voyaging Voyaging

13 13

Hawaii, Easter Island or any any of of the the other other far-flung far-flung islands of of Hawaii, Polynesia, the homeland was impossible. His Polynesia, aa return to to the His mental rubicon was 300 that distance there rubicon 300 miles; miles; beyond beyond that there could be be no

two-way voyaging. Once Hawaii had had been settled, the the people people were totally totally cut off off from from the the rest rest of of Polynesia Polynesia but but for for the the chance arrival arrival of of other other accidental migrants. migrants. Thus Thus the the legendary legendary travels of Mo‘ikeha, La‘a, La‘a, Kila, and all of Mo‘ikeha, Kila, Pa‘ao and all the the other other heroes of of Hawaiian legend who sailed back and forth legend who back and forth between Tahiti Tahiti and and Hawaii were to to him the imagination of him figments figments of of the of Hawaiian storytellers. All All this this seemed absurd to to me and and to to some of of my my more ocean-oriented professors. How could could anyone believe that that PolyPolynesia was settled by by accident? ItIt isis over 7,000 7,000 miles miles from from Indonesia to to the the far far reaches of of Polynesia. Polynesia. Canoes could not drift drift all the direction of all that that distance against against the of the the prevailing prevailing trade winds and and currents. And And the the idea idea that that once Polynesians sailed sailed beyond beyond 300 300 miles they they were lost lost on the the great great ocean was incredible. Yet Yet

Sharp had many many followers, and and the the debate between camps was aa Sharp had lively and at lively and at times bitter bitter one that that was to to fill fill the the pages pages of of many

a scholarly journal and scholarly journal and book. The The disagreement was not going going anywhere, for the needed information on the the sailing sailing ability ability of of anywhere, for the Polynesian Polynesian canoes and and on the the accuracy of of the the Polynesian naviganavigation there. The tion system system just just was not not there. The early early European explorers explorers had had failed failed to to document exactly exactly how how well well Polynesian Polynesian canoes sailed or how the Polynesian how accurate were the Polynesian navigators, and and it it was too late late to The voyaging to get get firsthand information. The voyaging canoes had had long long since disappeared from from Polynesian Polynesian waters. In In their their stead stead were trading trading schooners, freighters freighters and and passenger liners. Why not Why not reconstruct aa voyaging voyaging canoe and and sail sail it it without instruments over the the legendary legendary voyaging voyaging route between Tahiti and That would break and Hawaii? That break the the stalemate. A A successful voyage

that Polynesians could never have Sharp’s claim that would demolish Sharp’s intentionally sailed sailed back back and and forth forth between distant islands. That That was the plan II hatched one afternoon after the plan after my my classes at at the the catamaran, racing a in the trades in a racing flying before the University—while flying of the the ancient voyaging voyaging canoe. aa modern descendant of the have the did not have graduate student II did young graduate as aa young However, as was it was Besides, it Besides, undertaking. such an ambitious to launch such means to

14 14

HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way to to Tahiti Tahiti The

Tahiti if to Tahiti trips to if talking about canoe trips go around talking not advisable toto go professional anthroanthroand become aa professional obtain aa Ph.D. and II wanted toto obtain pologist. plan remained a secret dream while II continued the plan So the pologist. So my proband worked on more standard anthropological probmy studies and By then then II had Harvard, had earned aa Ph.D. atat Harvard, lems—until 1965. By

Outrigger canoe and and double-canoe Outrigger

teaching at at the the University University of of California in in Santa landed aa job job teaching Barbara, and with my (who was also teaching anthropology Barbara, and with my wife wife (who also teaching there) enough to to start building building aa double-canoe. there) had had saved saved enough We chose to build aa double-canoe rather than an outrigger to build rather than outrigger Both are solutions to to the the problem of making making long, canoe. Both problem of long, narrow canoe hulls stable enough to venture out to sea and to carry hulls stable enough to out to and to carry sail, sail,

by joining joining two hulls one by hulls with with crossbeams, the the other by by rigging rigging an outrigger float single hull. hull. Although outrigger float to to aa single Although the the ancestral Polynesians Polynesians sailed both sailed both

types, was above above all all the the greater stability and types, itit was greater stability and carrying capacity of the that enabled them carrying capacity of the double-canoe that them toto move far into the first hundreds and and then far out into the Pacific—to cross first then thousands of miles of open open ocean, carrying heavy loads loads of of colonists, food of miles of carrying heavy colonists, food and water, plus the domesticated plants and animals needed and plus the plants and needed increasingly distant but toto implant implant successful colonies on the the increasingly but ahead. resource-poor oceanic islands ahead.

Polynesian Polynesian Voyaging Voyaging

15 15

It It took took nearly nearly a year year for for a group of of students and and myself myself to to build 40 feet build aa double-canoe 40 feet in in length length and and weighing weighing nearly nearly 112 1% tons. Ideally, we would have reconstructed Ideally, have the type type of of voyaging voyaging the sailed between Tahiti canoe that that sailed Tahiti and and Hawaii in in the the 12th 12th century. not have But But it it would not have been been easy easy to to duplicate duplicate aa craft craft that that had had not been for eight eight centuries. Instead, replica of been seen for Instead, we built built a replica of aa known canoe type: type: an 18th-century 18th-century Hawaiian interisland sailing sailing canoe, aa craft craft that that could could be be duplicated duplicated in in wood and and fiberglass fiberglass

without tremendous difficulty difficulty by by following following drawings drawings made by by early and using early explorers explorers and using aa mold mold taken off off an old old Hawaiian canoe out the in aa series of hull. hull. Our Our idea idea was to to try try out the canoe in of trials trials to to obtain information on sailing obtain basic basic informaticn sailing performance, then then to to sail sail it, it, or aa larger from the larger canoe built built from the lessons learned, from from Hawaii to to Tahiti and and return.

In In Hawaii the the canoe was christened Nalehia (Nah-lay-hee-ah), Hawaiian for “The Skilled Ones,” graceful way for “The Ones,” after after the the graceful way her her twin hulls swells. Earlier, Earlier, in hulls glided glided over the the swells. in Santa Santa Barbara, yachtsmen had those hulls. had not not been been so complimentary about those hulls. During During construction one had had declared flatly, flatly, “Her “Her hulls hulls are too shallow and and rounded. She'll leeway to She’ll make make too too much leeway to sail sail to to windward.” He He had aa good good point. point. Yachts have had have deep deep keels keels or centerboards that that

project down into the sideways project into the the water to to resist the sideways push push of of the the wind and keep wind and keep them them moving moving to to windward with with a minimum of of leeway. keel nor centerboards, only leeway. Nalehia had had neither keel only her her shallow, these proved shallow, rounded hulls. hulls. Yet Yet these proved to to offer offer enough enough resistance to leeway to to enable the to leeway the canoe to to sail sail to to windward. We found that We that out the the first first time we hoisted sail sail off off Santa Barbara, and then several months sailing Barbara, and then spent spent several sailing in in Hawaiian waters testing her her windward ability. The trick trick was to the canoe testing ability. The to keep keep the moving fast fast and and never to moving to force force her her too close close into into the the wind. wind. In In aa trade wind, sailing at 15-knot trade wind, that that meant sailing at about 4% 42 knots, knots, making making

good of around 75 good aa course of 75 degrees degrees off off the the wind (calculated by by heading to measuring the the heading to the the true wind and and adding adding the the leeway leeway she wind, she the wind, higher into the angle). tried to the canoe higher point the to point If we tried angle). If

forward her forward and her rate and alarming rate sideways atat an alarming skidding sideways would start skidding speed would would fall speed fall way way off. off. be to be nothing to Although Although Nalehia’s windward performance was nothing

16 16

HOKULE‘A: HOXULEA:

The Way to to Tahiti Tahiti The Way

proud ofof in circles, itit was enough enough toto show show how how wrong proud in yachting yachting circles, Sharp and and other Andrew Sharp other critics had had been been about Polynesian Polynesian Even this this modest modest windward ability ability would have have enabled enabled canoes. Even the ancient Polynesians to have planned and and carried out their the Polynesians to have planned out their long voyages. A case in point involved the legendary route belong A in point the legendary beand Tahiti. Using Using what what we had sailing tween Hawaii and had learned from from sailing Nalehia, together with figures and strength strength of of Nalehia, together with figures for for the the direction and winds and and currents prevailing prevailing over the the route, I calculated that route, I that could have have successfully successfully sailed sailed back and forth forth canoe voyagers could back and between these these centers. The leg from to Hawaii looked to be be the Tahiti The leg from Tahiti to looked to the easiest. Tahiti lies 500 miles miles east—to windward—of aa line line drawn due lies almost almost 500 due

south from the the Hawaiian archipelago. archipelago. That south from the middle of of the That means a canoe could could be be sailed across the the trades and accompanying trades and currents and, after being set to the west, west, would fetch fetch up and, even after being set to the up somewhere in in the the Hawaiian chain. chain. The The return to to Tahiti Tahiti was the the challenge. You would have have to easterly winds and challenge. You to fight fight those those same easterly winds and currents to to make make up the 500 miles of easting in order to reach up the 500 miles of easting in order to reach the the meridian of with their their more weatherly weatherly craft craft do of Tahiti. Yachtsmen with do butting into into the wind and and current to make itit to not relish relish butting the wind to make to Tahiti. With aa shallow-hulled canoe the be much With the voyage would would be much harder—

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yet just possible, at at least least according according to to armchair calculations that that yet just possible, II worked out for for a birthday birthday party. party. Kenneth Emory, the archaeologist who Emory, the who had had taught taught me PolyPoly-

at the the University of of Hawaii, and and who who had had spent spent nesian prehistory at studying Tahitian and and Hawaiian culture, culture, was about about to to aa lifetime studying turn seventy. seventy. I1 was asked chapter to book on turn asked to to contributec contribute a chapter to aa book that was to to be in his and Polynesian culture that be published published in his honor and presented birthday, and only too too happy happy to to presented to to him him on his his birthday, and was only oblige by by challenging theory of of accidental voyaging with with oblige challenging Sharp’s Sharp’s theory an analysis their canoes analysis of of how how ancient voyagers could could have have sailed sailed their between Tahiti and and Hawaii. My essay essay was more than It was also My than an academic treatise. It also a theory to to be be tested by by actually actually trying trying to to sail sail aa canoe canoe over over the the theory thousands of of miles miles of of blue blue water that that lay lay between these these islands. islands.

Star Joy Star ofofJoy full force of the the “Here comes the the wind!” The The full force of the trades hit hit the crab-claw-shaped sail. Nalehia shot shot through through the crab-claw—shaped sail. the narrow channel in the the surf surf breaking breaking on either either side into the in the reef reef past past the side and and out out into the open sea. Three of of us were now in in the the canoe experiment business. open sail. Herb tall, heavyset heavyset Hawaiian, II was handling handling the the sail. Herb Kane, Kane, aa tall, and slim, athletic Tommy They were all and slim, Tommy Holmes were steering. steering. They all smiles; this their first first sail sail in smiles; this was their in aa double-canoe.

“Porpoises! “Porpoises! Porpoises Porpoises ahead!” We in waters We were sailing sailing just just offshore suburban Honolulu in where porpoises are seldom seen anymore. Herb Kane (Kah-nay, word meaning aa Hawaiian word meaning “man”; “man”; also also the the name of of an important

god) was unusually by the the sighting. Later he explained god) unusually excited by sighting. Later he explained that his father had had once told told him, right after that his him, “If “If you you see porpoises right after you launch aa newly newly built they are messengers from you built canoe, they from the the 18 18

Star of Star of Joy Joy

sea god god Kanaloa

signifying signifying that that he he accepts accepts

19 19

the the vessel vessel into into his his

domain.”

Nalehia had had just just been been relaunched. It It was early early eight years since she she last eight years last sailed. While While building building the the injured my my back. Three operations, a long injured long period period of of and the the problems problems of in Hawaii and of getting getting reestablished in

1974, almost 1974, canoe I1 had had recuperation had had kept kept me

on dry dry land land till till now. Several months before before the the relaunching, relaunching, Herb Kane, Kane, Tommy Herb Tommy Holmes and and II had had formed the the Polynesian Polynesian

fund the Society as aa research corporation to Voyaging Society Voyaging to fund the construclarge canoe for tion of tion of aa large for the the Tahiti Tahiti voyage. Nalehia was to to be be our and also vessel, and training vessel, training also aa lure lure to to attract funds. funds. We We intended to to

sail her sail her around to to show potential potential contributors that that we were about our plans serious about plans and and that that we already already knew knew something something

about double-canoes. II had had returned to to Honolulu three three years earlier to to take take up up a teaching post at the University of Hawaii, and to get back to teaching post at the of and to get to the the canoe project. project. The The latter latter had had not not been been easy. easy. Nalehia had had been been left at the agreement that left at an oceanarium near Honolulu with with the that they they would use her her as aa display display in in their their Hawaiian village village in in return for for research support by the support later. later. Unfortunately, by the time II had had recovered from from my my third third back back operation operation and and returned to to Hawaii the the oceanarium had In addition to had fallen fallen into into financial difficulties. In to reneging on the new reneging on the the promised promised support, support, the new management went went so so far far as to to demand storage storage charges charges for for keeping keeping Nalehia on public public display! the time needed to to develop and finish display! That, That, plus plus the develop courses and

some more orthodox research in in order to to secure tenure, made me

shelve the project for the project for a while. After rescuing rescuing Nalehia from the the oceanarium, II loaned her group interested in her to to aa Hawaiian group in using using the canoe to about their the to teach teach young Hawaiians about their marine heritage heritage and settled down and down to to more mundane tasks. tasks. During During this this period period II began began to to get get many inquiries inquiries about Polynesian canoes and and about Polynesian about sailing sailing to to Tahiti, Tahiti, especially especially from from

Hawaiians. There was much more interest inin the the project project now than than there when Nalehia was sailing This there had had been been when sailing in in the the mid-1960s. This growing growing interest was part part of of aa new development. When II had had been been in Hawaiian Hawaiian 1950s, interest in late 1950s, the late during the aa student inin Hawaii during

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HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way to to Tahiti The

that better left and better past and the past of the culture was minimal. ItIt was aa thing thing of left that the common attitude on the way seemed to the part part of of Hawaiians, way to be be the than one-fifth of of then aa dispirited then dispirited minority minority comprising less less than by Americans of of Hawaii's multiracial population, Hawaii’s population, dominated by Asian ancestry. ancestry. By the time II returned to and Asian Caucasian and By the to teach teach at at University in the University in 1970 1970 this this attitude was fading. fading. Young Young Hawaiians the

who had grown speaking only English were trying trying to up speaking learn who had grown up only English to learn forms of old forms of chanting, studying old chanting, dancing and dancing and and were studying Hawaiian and

other practices of the ancient culture. II found this of the this development other by working through my and by exciting and tried to working help through my teaching, to help exciting and teaching, and with other faculty to establish aa Hawaiian with other faculty to

program. studies program.

It therefore was aa natural step about organizing the step to It to think think about organizing the project so that could be be part part of of this this nascent cultural cultural canoe project that itit could had aa positive had seen how how Nalehia had impact on revival. Earlier II had positive impact sailed her, how it them think who sailed her, how think aa little little those Hawaiians who those it made made them their ancestors had had settled they were and and how how their who they more about about who growing Hawaiian consciousness, itit the islands. Now this growing with this Now with the

step the project seemed time to to take take Hawaiian participation inin the project aa step further by by getting getting Hawaiians fully fully involved in retracing their in retracing their dual signifithen have have aa dual The project signifiancestral migrations. The project would would then both for for scientific research and cance, both and for for cultural revival. That why II responded so readily to to Herb Herb Kane’s appeal appeal in in That isis why so readily early 1973. He about buildbuildearly 1973. He and and Tommy Tommy Holmes had had been been talking talking about ing a large voyaging canoe and then sailing sailing itit to to Tahiti and ing large voyaging and then and back back with made up up largely of Hawaiians, Tahitians and and other other with aa crew made largely of Polynesians. “Sounds good good to to me,” me,” II replied replied to to Kane, Kane, and the Polynesians. and the three of of us were soon deep deep into into planning the venture. three planning the Lean, Tommy Holmes was in his mid-twenties. Lean, deeply deeply tanned Tommy in his

In Hawaii both both he he and and II were classed classed as as haole (haow-lay),* a In haole (haow-lay),® applied to to whites. But we were of of different Hawaiian term applied whites. But Tommy was aa local local haole haole born born into into a prominent Honolulu varieties. Tommy

family. II was an immigrant immigrant “coast haole” haole” from from California. Yet family. Yet we

were alike passion for for the alike in in that that we shared a common passion the Polynesian water sports sports of of surfing and paddling outrigger racing surfing and paddling racing canoes. *® In In this this case the the two vowels form form aa diphthong and not separated by aa and are not separated by glottal glottal stop. stop.

Star Star of of Joy Joy

21 il

Herb Kane was aa little Herb little older older than than I, I, in in his his mid-forties. He He was Hawaiian, or more accurately accurately part-Hawaiian; his his mother was of of while his Danish immigrant stock his father was half-Chinese. Tall, stock while Tall, face, Kane nonetheless looked broad, handsome face, with aa broad, heavyset, with looked heavyset, all not at is not be only To be fairly Hawaiian. To only one-quarter Hawaiian is fairly at all the past the Hawaiian community; over the in the two centuries past two unusual in made Kane freely intermarried. What Kane an unusual What made Hawaiians have have freely had he had Hawaii, he in Hawaii, born in Although born his background. background. Although Hawaiian was his to gone to of Wisconsin, had his mother’s home state of in his been raised raised in had gone been in aa successful career then had and then Chicago and in Chicago school in art school had engaged engaged in art advertising agencies artist working as aa commercial artist working with leading advertising with leading agencies than seemed more Midwestern than resuit Kane seemed As aa resuit city. As that city. of that of businessman Chicago businessman and manner in speech closer in Hawaiian, closer to aa Chicago speech and manner to sailed Nalehia. my Hawaiian friends who example, to for example, than, had sailed who had to my than, for and world and advertising world Chicago advertising the Chicago had abandoned the Yet Kane had Yet

his Hawaiian roots. Building to his back to now wanted toto get get back Building a voyagChicago years in ing canoe was part part of that quest. During his his last last years in Chicago quest. During of that ing to Hawaii returning to before before returning

been dreaming had been 1972, Kane had in in 1972, dreaming

Jolly Green Giant the Jolly drawing the he was drawing the time he all the about canoes all portfolio working on aa portfolio advertising motifs. He other advertising and other and He was then working Polynesian canoes. of Polynesian paintings of vivid paintings and vivid drawings and line drawings of detailed line of

and building and drawing voyaging canoes toto building step from drawing the step him, the For him, For and an the fulfillment of both the be both sailing one would be sailing of his his dreams and affirmation of of his his identity identity as aa Hawaiian. experiabout the like mind of like of us were of the three Although the Although three of mind about the experi-

project, we the project, objectives of and cultural revival objectives mental research and of the Knowing built. Knowing be built. to be of the size of the size disagreed on the initially disagreed initially the canoe to build a double-canoe, II to build it was to and difficult it how expensive and how long, or even feet long, 45 feet than 45 that we construct one no more than proposed that proposed and Kane and voyaging. Kane extended voyaging. for extended out Nalehia for fitting out consider fitting massive build aa massive to build They wanted to that. They none of would have Tommy would Tommy have none of that. anyand anyagainst one; and It was two against length. It in length. feet in 60 feet double-canoe 60 be. to be. it was to So aa 60-footer it idea. So exciting idea. theirs was an exciting way theirs way the bare-bones estimate foot.” That was the “A thousand dollars a foot.” “A

to planned to such a canoe. We planned building such for building gave us for boatbuilders gave following modern catamaran conplywood, following of plywood, it out of fabricate it simple old voyaging canoes were not simple The old techniques. The struction techniques.

22 22

HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way toto Tahiti The

dugouts. Although Although a single might form base of hull, the dugouts. single log log might form the the base of aa hull, the rest of up with of the the hull hull would be be built built up with planks planks painstakingly painstakingly shaped fit exactly edge to edge and together with shaped toto fit exactly edge to edge and then then sewn together with sennit. To To try that lost lost art art in in order order to build aa big big try toto revive that to build voyaging canoe the likes of of which which had voyaging the likes had not been been seen for for hundreds

of years would have have been been to So we had had toto pass up of years to invite disaster. So pass up the the strength strength and and durability durability of the opportunity opportunity toto test the of ancient of Nalehia, Nalehia, concentrate on re-creating materials and, and, as as in in the the case of the shape and weight of an ancient canoe in in order duplicate its its the shape and weight of order toto duplicate sailing performance. Our goal was aa performance-accurate replica, replica, sailing Our goal not not aa construction-accurate one. But $60,000 $60,000 was a lot of of money! money! But a lot There were no donors donors waiting waiting to to give give us us $60,000 anywhere There $60,000 or anywhere near it. it. Our Our solution: form and solicit solicit form a membership corporation and funds from from individuals, businesses and and foundations. And And so so the the funds Polynesian Voyaging Society was born. A corporation requires Polynesian Voyaging Society born. A corporation requires officers and board of of directors. Kane, both because he he was and aa board Kane, both and was experienced in in business, the natural Hawaiian and business, seemed the choice head the the Voyaging Society. But But he take the choice toto head Voyaging Society. he insisted II take the job; he he became vice-president and and Tommy Tommy became secretary of of job; the corporation. For the board of the For members ofof the of directors we rounded

up a few few scientists, experienced experienced sailors and and as many Hawaiian up could interest in develop community leaders as we could in helping helping us develop project. Hawaiian participation inin the the project. Fund raising raising was not not easy. going for for Fund easy. However, we had had aa lot lot going and promotional skills; skills; Tommy’s Tommy’s family family connecus: Kane’s artistic and tions in Honolulu society society and circles; and and aa solid tions in and business circles; solid research base with with Nalehia. In enough cash cash base In aa hectic hectic six six months we raised enough to start construction—thanks to to contributions from to from hundreds of of newly recruited Voyaging Society members and and other other donors; donors; aa newly Voyaging Society

the National Geographic Geographic down payment on story story rights rights from from the Society; aa grant grant from from the the Hawaii Bicentennial Commission, which Society; which accepted our venture as an official U.S. accepted U.S. Bicentennial project; project;

from aa generous donation from and aa handsome Francisco; and book. book. How do do you you reconstruct

Penelope Gerbode-Hopper of San Penelope of San from the the publisher publisher of of this this advance from

the the design design of of aa voyaging canoe of

Star of Joy Joy Star of

23 23

eight centuries ago when there there are no ancient plans, plans, no remains eight ago when of of sunken canoes, not not even rock rock engravings engravings to to follow? Yachtsmen

acquainted with Pacific canoes urged like the the acquainted with urged us to to adopt adopt features like lateen sail and the deep-V hull for maximum windward efficiency. lateen sail and the deep-V hull for efficiency. But that would would have have ruined the the whole whole idea of testing testing the the perBut that idea of performance of of the of Polynesian canoe, for for these the ancient type type of these are features of of recent outrigger outrigger canoe types types of of Micronesia (the (the group group of New Guinea and of Polynesia), Polynesia), of islands north north of of New and well well to to the the west of not Polynesian double-canoes. Instead we followed aa not of of ancient Polynesian

conservative method of of design design reconstruction based principles based on principles of geographical distribution. We We studied the drawings of PolyPolyof geographical studied the drawings of nesian canoe types types from the islands islands and and archipelagoes, archipelagoes, looking from all all the looking for commonly throughout throughout Polynesia Polynesia and and for design design features occurring occurring commonly rejecting those appearing appearing in in just just one island group or rejecting those island group or region. region. Localized features, features, we reasoned, would represent represent recent introductions or developments whereas widespread features would reflect reflect the design of of the original voyaging voyaging canoes. the design the original This design strategy led led us to to choose hulls hulls with This design strategy with aa semi-V

cross-section (wedge-shaped at at the the bottom with bulging with wide wide bulging sides sails shaped shaped like though we sides) ) and and sails like an inverted triangle triangle even though knew and lateen sails sails might might give give knew that that Micronesian deep-V deep-V hulls hulls and better performance. Yet we were confident that that these Polynesian performance. Yet these Polynesian design us well. well. The The inverted triangular triangular sail design features would serve us sail would drive to windward; we knew knew that from the the would drive the the canoe to that from Nalehia trials of that that sail trials with with the the Hawaiian crab-claw version of sail

type. study it looked as if hull shape shape might type. And And upon study it looked if the the semi-V hull might be ideal for for aa voyaging craft that to carry heavy loads be ideal voyaging craft that had had to carry heavy loads over

long distances. The The wedge-shaped bottom would help long help the the canoe track to windward; the the bulging bulging cross-section would provide provide the track to windward; the

capacity. needed carrying carrying capacity. Herb Kane Kane took took over the the design design job. First he Herb job. First he created an artistic rendering sailing over the the blue that rendering of of the the canoe sailing blue ocean that

really project, providing image people really launched the the project, providing a visual image people could grasp readily than than words. We used it and grasp more readily We used it on posters, posters, T-shirts and other and contributions. other promotional promotional materials toto attract members and Then Then

Kane Kane

drew drawings drew aa series of of detailed drawings

of the canoe. of the

and a member of designer and Rudy Choy, a pioneering catamaran designer Rudy Choy,

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HOKULE‘A:

The Way to to Tahiti Tahiti The Way

the Voyaging Voyaging Society’s and his partners the Society’s board of of directors, and his partners precisely calculated and and drew out the the lines of the precisely drew out lines of the twin hulls. hulls.

Warren Seamens, one of of Rudy’s got us started Rudy’s partners, then then got laying up hulls, the the most critical construction phase. phase. Even laying up the the hulls, point would have have led minor errors atat that that point led toto crooked hulls hulls and and poor sailing hulls were built something like like the poor sailing performance. The The hulls built something the

way the way the wooden fuselage fuselage ofof a model airplane airplane isis made. Over aa skeleton made of of plywood wood stringers, three plywood frames and and long long wood three

and modern Canoe construction: traditional and modern

Star of Joy Star of Joy

Os 25

layers of layers of narrow strips strips of of very very thin thin plywood plywood were laminated, each each layer in the layer applied applied diagonally in the opposite opposite direction to to the the previous

one in in order to to add add strength. strength. This This time-consuming process gave gave us two extremely strong hulls extremely strong hulls which, which, once interior fixtures were added layer of added and and aa protective layer of fiberglass fiberglass was applied, applied, took on the weight of aa traditionally traditionally built the weight of of the the hulls hulls of built craft. craft. Next came the the equally equally labor-intensive and and expensive tasks of of fabricating the tall fabricating the tall prowpieces and and even taller sternpieces. Then Then long oak long oak strips strips were laminated to to make ten ten massive crossbeams (in (in olden olden days davs these these would have have been been made from from tree limbs or trunks grown grown or selected for for just just the the right right shape). shape). Finally Finally the the decking, masts, booms, decking, booms, steering steering paddles paddles and and other other components were fashioned. Volunteers were of of some help, help, but but no one could could afford to to drop drop his the canoe. To his job job to to work full full time time on the To keep keep the the work on schedule, we had had to to employ emplov several schedule, several boatbuilders.

Their wages,

plus high costs of plus the the high of materials (even (even though though much was sold sold to to and we had us at at discount prices prices),), soon depleted depleted our treasury and had to to

intensify fund intensify fund raising. raising. The The formula we hit hit upon was toto “sell” the the and paddles, crossbeams and paddles, including including the the big big steering steering paddles paddles and and the long steering sweeps. Purchasers of the long steering of crossbeams had had the the right right to name them; to them; the the paddles paddles would actually actually go go to to the the buyers buyers once

the the canoe returned to to Hawaii. This This campaign quickly quickly took off; off; soon we had and also had enough enough to to finish finish the the canoe and also to to finance the the testing testing and and training training period period to to follow launching. launching. That in 1974; That was late late in 1974; launching launching was scheduled for for early early 1975. 1975. The of that to be be spent spent testing The rest of that year year was to testing the the canoe, learning learning how then selecting and training training aa crew. how to to sail sail it it efficiently, efficiently, and and then selecting and Departure for Tahiti Departure for Tahiti was to to be be in in early early 1976 1976 to to help help celebrate the the Bicentennial year. year. We were enjoying enjoying marvelous public public goodwill goodwill and and acceptance

in had hit to which both in Hawaii. We had hit upon a theme to both Hawaiians and non-Hawaiian residents could respond. and respond. Maybe Maybe some people people in Hawaii thought in thought we were crazy crazy and and would never make make the the voyage. If If so, quiet about so, they they kept kept quiet about it. it. Not Not so critics from overseas. Followers of of the the accidental voyaging voyaging theory theory of of Andrew Andrew

26 26

HOKULE‘A:

The Way The Way toto Tahiti

Sharp, who died just just after after we began the project, Sharp, who died began the project, were predictably predictably outraged.* In In addition, addition, aa number of outraged.® of experienced experienced sailors around the world expressed their of actually actually the their pessimism about our chances of sailing to to Tahiti and back. experimental voyager, sailing Tahiti and back. One One was aa fellow fellow experimental Vital Alsar, Alsar, a a Spanish who had had twice sailed Vital Spanish adventurer who sailed aa Kon-Tikitype balsa balsa raft type raft from from South America to to Australia. He He came to to and _ proHonolulu, inspected inspected our partially partially completed completed canoe and proforty of of completing completing the nounced that that we had had only only one chance in in forty the round trip. trip. round Yet three of had every of success. The Yet the the three of us had every confidence of The name we finally finally chose chose for for the canoe reflected that feeling. Hokule‘a is the that feeling. is

the for Arcturus, the the bright bright star that the Hawaiian word for that passes directly directly overhead Hawaii. Fragmentary Hawaiian traditions inin-

dicate that navigators used homing beacon that returning navigators used Hokule‘a Hokule'a as aa homing for star, le‘a (lay-‘ah) means for Hawaii. Hoku Hoku (Hoh-koo) means star, le‘'a (lay-ah) joy; the “Star “Star of of Joy,” for aa joy; hence hence Hokule‘a Hokule'a isis the Joy,” aa fitting fitting name for navigation star and, we thought, thought, aa star pointing pointing the the way way homeward and, perfect perfect name for for our canoe. Following publication in of my feasibility of * Following in 1967 1967 of my essay essay on the the feasibility of long-range long-range voyaging between Hawaii and and Tahiti, my work inin an Tahiti, Andrew Sharp Sharp denounced my in an anthropology journal, journal, and and followed that article published published in that with with aa letter letter warning me that that my my professional professional career was “in “in grave jeopardy if you go go on warning grave jeopardy if you sticking toto your your views of of Polynesian Polynesian migration voyaging.” sticking migration and and experimental voyaging.”

44. Spaceship of the Spaceship of the Ancestors After the the launching launching in in March March 1975, of testing After 1975, the the job job of testing Hokule'a Hokule‘a began. The The launching launching site site on the the north north shore shore of of Oahu Island began. across the from Honolulu was an ideal base: aa beach the mountains from ideal base: park facing the northeast trade trade winds. From From there there we could could beat park facing the beat

to sea, spend the the day day tacking and forth forth in in the the open out to sea, spend tacking back back and open then sail sail back back with with the to aa safe safe anchorage anchorage within within ocean, then the trades trades to

the the reef. reef. Those Those first first sea trials trials were exhilarating. exhilarating. It It was aa joy joy to to discover how seakindly seakindly the and stable stable even when how the canoe was: smooth and sailing sailing against against wind wind and and wave. No sailor to windward against against steep steep No sailor looks looks forward to to sailing sailing to had a a taste of of that that kind kind of of sailing sailing in in 1953 1953 crewing crewing back seas. II first first had back

to California after after a summer's summer’s surfing surfing atat Waikiki, Waikiki, aboard a yacht yacht to that was anything but seakindly. that anything but seakindly. She She was aa broad-beamed ketch ketch 27 27

28 28

HOKULE A: HOKULE‘A:

The The Way Way to to Tahiti

called the Marmaduke: we rechristened her her “Mamaduck” from from called the the she waddled about about when close-hauled against the norththe way way she against the

east trades and bucking bucking into the the head head seas built built up up by by those those trades and steady the exact same conditions, pushing pushing out out steady winds. Under the against from our base the north north shore shore of of Oahu, Oahu, against the the trades trades from base on the Hokulea the steep steep swells with only only aa gentle gentle Hokule‘a sailed sailed serenely serenely over the swells with loping motion. It It was the the combination of of the the fine fine lines lines of of the the two loping narrow hulls hulls and and their their semirounded cross-section that that gave gave the the canoe her her smooth riding qualities. Hokule‘a was aa tribute to to her her riding qualities. designers and but more so to to the the ancient canoe masters. designers and builders, but It who over the It was they they who the centuries had had developed developed the the hull hull form form

that Herb Kane and Rudy Choy Choy had had striven to to copy. copy. that and Rudy Although Although

elated by by the the canoe’s elated

seakindliness,

some

things things

about sailing sailing Hokule’a did not make us so happy. happy. The The hulls hulls took took about Hokule‘a did on aa lot and had had to to be be bailed frequently. frequently. Steering Steering was lot of of water and

anything but anything but easy; easy; we left left aa trail trail of of splintered steering steering paddles paddles broken while while trying trying to to force force the the canoe to to go go where where we wanted. The long, The long, curving curving booms lashed lashed to to the the afteredge afteredge of of the the sails sails kept kept cracking because they cracking they were too too flimsy. flimsy. And And the the sails sails themselves problem. Instead of were aa problem. of tall, tall, narrow ones like like Nalehia’s, Herb with a much stubbier design. Kane had had come up up with design. His His broad, broad, baggy baggy sails fine for for running running before before the the wind, wind, but but they they did did not not take take sails were fine the good good airfoil shape needed to the airfoil shape to drive drive the the canoe efficiently efficiently to to windward. During those first During those first weeks of of sea trials trials we worked to to remedy remedy these and and other the woven these other defects. Canvas covers modeled on the mat covers used used on the the old old Hawaiian canoes were fitted fitted over the the mat

open sections of the hulls hulls to to keep keep out the the spray spray and and boarding boarding open of the seas, and and sturdier paddles paddles and and booms booms were made. made. However, instead of of staying staying put put to to revamp the the inefficient sail sail rig, rig, or to to develop aa good develop good system system for for bailing bailing out out the the water that that still still seeped seeped into the hulls into the hulls past past the the covers and and through through the the lashing lashing holes, holes, or to to

take of other take care of other design design and and construction problems, we

got got

involved in in a flamboyant flamboyant cruise around the the Hawaiian chain.

In In contrast toto other experimental voyaging projects, we had had planned planned to to spend spend aa good good year year testing testing and and refining refining the the canoe and and training training the the crew before before setting setting sail. sail. Had Had we followed precedent, precedent, Hokule‘a right we would have have loaded up up Hokule'a right after the the launching launching and and

the Ancestors Spaceship of of the

29 29

immediately immediately sailed sailed for for Tahiti. That That strategy strategy had had worked magnifimagnificently for Heyerdahl; cently for Heyerdahl; the the long long drift drift from from South America to to Polynesia Polynesia was Kon-Tiki’s maiden voyage. But But Heyerdahl’s Heyerdahl's venture,

experimental voyages, was a one-way trip like most other experimental like trip in in stay afloat which the main challenge which the main challenge was to to stay afloat sailing sailing and and drifting drifting until land before the the wind wind and and current until land was reached. Ahead of of us was aa tough tough two-way two-way voyage vovage with with one leg leg to to windward; we could not and seas or on buoyant not count on following following winds and buoyant balsa balsa wood logs logs to to forgive forgive any anv shortcomings in in craft craft or seamanship. seamanship. And, And, as the attempt of the part part of attempt to to navigate navigate Polynesian style, style, we had had to to know plot accurately able to to be enough to Hokule‘a Hokule'a well well enough be able to plot accurately her her speed speed and and That is course without resort to to instruments. That is why why we had had allowed training before the and training of sea trials good year for for aa good year of trials and the voyage, and and had planned why why we had planned on recruiting an experienced captain, prefpreferably to command the erably an old old catamaran hand, hand, to the canoe. Both these ideas Both these ideas came to to be be modified as the the project project developed. developed. No expert catamaran sailor No expert sailor stepped stepped forth. It It would be be almost a

year year and and a half half between the the launching and and the the projected return from from Tahiti; Tahiti; who who had had the the time and and dedication for for such such a long long haul? haul? Besides, Besides, Herb Herb Kane became interested in in assuming the the

captaincy, at at least least during during the the training period. period. Although Although Kane’s experience to sailing experience was mostly mostly limited to sailing catamarans on Lake Lake Michigan, Michigan, as chief chief designer designer of of the the canoe he he was confident that that he he knew else. knew more about about Hokule‘a Hokule’a than than anyone else. During those During those first first weeks weeks of of sailing sailing Kane Kane proved proved to to be be an inspired inspired leader, leader, although although it it was not not long long before his his enthusiasm developed into aa messianic vision. Hokule‘as Hokule'a’s sacred mission,

Kane began began to uplift the to preach, preach, was to to uplift the Hawaiian people, people, to to be be the catalyst for the catalyst for the the Hawaiian renaissance. A A culture is is nothing nothing without its artifacts, he he reasoned. The its artifacts, The restoration of of the the voyaging voyaging canoe, once the the central central artifact of of Polynesian culture, would Polynesian culture, reawaken in in young Hawaiians an ethnic pride pride worn down by by the the Americanization of and all all the of Hawaii and the developments that that have have

transformed Hawaiians into an underprivileged group.” group.® Followrecently conducted by ®* AA survey recently by a Hawaiian organization indicates that that Hawaiians have the lowest life have the life expectancy of of all all ethnic groups in in Hawaii; that that their their median median family family income

is is almost $2,000 $2,000 below below the the State average;

and and that that

they prisons and they find find their their way into into prisons and other correctional facilities facilitics at at twice the the State rate. rate.

30 30

HOKULE‘A:

The Way to to Tahiti The Way

the American underway on the ethnic movements underway of ethnic logic of the logic ing the ing lead would lead pride would this reawakened pride that this idea was that his idea mainland, his

adapt better toto modern life. life. Hawaiians to to adapt urged, Kane urged, necessary, Kane was it Hokule‘a’s mission, it develop Hokule'a's To develop To the canoe sail the sail

that we that

the Hawaiian all the all

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and her ready ready for the voyage would would not not be be forgotten, and getting getting her for the forgotten, he he promised. The would realistically test the promised. The cruise would realistically test the canoe under under aa variety the wild variety of of conditions, including including the wild winds and and high high waves that surge through the channels separating separating one island from that surge through the island from another. In addition, an interisland cruise would us aa chance In addition, would give give us to good crewmen from all too too to recruit some good from the the outer islands. islands. So, So, all hastily, two months after after launching, launching, Hokule‘a Maui hastily, Hokule’a sailed sailed for for Maui (Mow-ee first island on the the tour. (Mow-ee ), ), the the first

awoke with with aa start. The The incessant swishing, swishing, gurgling gurgling rush rush of of II awoke

the hulls the canoe was no longer water past past the hulls was now muted; muted; the longer

Spaceship of of the the Ancestors

31 31

hurrying hurrying through through the the sea. Anxiously Anxiously II squirmed squirmed out of of my my sleepsleeping bag ing bag and and through through the the low low opening opening of of the the hut hut onto the the deck deck The sea was calm, between the the two hulls. hulls. The calm, with with only only aa hint hint of of aa of a high in the We were in breeze. We the lee cool cool breeze. lee of high island, island, barely barely moving moving peaks now beginning through through the the wind wind shadow cast by by the the steep steep peaks beginning dawn sky. in the to stand out to stand out in the dawn sky. It It all all seemed so familiar, familiar, as if if TI had had this place place many times before. Yes, sailed sailed into into this Yes, of of course; it it was just just like like approaching approaching Tahiti Tahiti aboard aa copra copra schooner coming coming in in from from the the outer islands of of French Polynesia. Polynesia. The The cool cool dawn air, air, the the quiet quiet seas and and the the looming looming mountains looked and and felt felt the the same. But I was not back in Tahitian waters. The island was Maui, But I not back in Tahitian The island Maui, not Tahiti. We just made made the the crossing not Tahiti. We had had just crossing from from Oahu. “Aloha!” “Alohal” No answer. The No The only only person on the the beach beach was aa startled tourist who, once the bows touched the sand, who, the bows the sand, asked asked who who we were and where we came from. We were hours ahead of schedule; our and where from. We ahead of

Maui friends were still still asleep, asleep, or planning planning our welcome over breakfast. What aa welcome it it was, even if if late. late. A A hovering hovering helicopter of plumeria loosed aa cascade of plumeria blossoms over the the beach beach and and the the canoe moored just just offshore. Then Then came formal Hawaiian prayers and and a kava kava circle modeled, curiously, curiously, on protocol protocol borrowed from from the As we sat the Samoan Islands of of western Polynesia. Polynesia. As sat cross-legged on the beach forming the beach forming aa large large circle, circle, each each of of our names was called in in turn and and we were served aa coconut cup cup full full of of aa ritual ritual PolyPolynesian beverage. After that came a feast, and an afternoon divided beverage. After that a feast, and

in the just lazing between catching catching up up on sleep, sleep, dipping dipping in the surf surf and and just lazing around listening listening to to Hawaiian music played played by by our Maui hosts. had to II had to fly fly back back to to Honolulu that that evening evening to to return to to my my classes the University, although classes at at the although II did did get get back back to to Maui on the the following take part in some of following weekends to to take part in of the the day day sails sails Kane organized for for the the Maui people. organized people. ItIt was on one of of these excursions that Kane abruptly abruptly announced, “Ben, that Kane “Ben, there’s no room for for you you on the Hawaii crossing. give as the crossing. We We want to to give as many many Maui Maui boys boys as

possible sail Hokule‘a possible a chance toto sail Hokule'a over.” surprised. Kane’s control been II should should not have have been so surprised. and last two months, and over the the last growing over canoe had been growing had been canoe

over the the Tommy Tommy

been assuring had been assuring They had lead as loyal lieutenant. They his lead as a loyal followed his

32 32

HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way to to Tahiti Tahiti The

me that could handle the the canoe, implying should be be that they they could implying that that II should

mind Voyaging content to to mind Voyaging Society Society business back back in in Honolulu.

Still, I I had had been looking forward to sail across the the rough Still, been looking to the the sail rough the biggest anciently most imporchannel toto Hawaii Island, Island, the biggest and and anciently important island of be so boldly of the the group; group; it it was aa shock shock toto be boldly maneuvered off the the crew. off of objecting, objecting, II rationalized to myself, “Hawaii isis Instead of to myself, this cruise isis his his baby. baby. It’s It’s become aa very very Kane’s home island, island, and and this let him him carry Hawaiian thing, thing, so let carry itit through.” through.” Before we left left Oahu, Oahu, gathered the the crew together together and solemnly told told them Kane had had gathered and solemnly them that the would be that the tour around the the islands would be more important than than the voyage to to Tahiti, Tahiti, for for it take the the it would take the canoe to to the the Hawaiian

people. In a magazine article he he had had written how people. In how Hokule‘a Hokule’a would speak to telling them, them, “I“I am the the spaceship spaceship of of speak to young Hawaiians, telling your the kind kind of of craft craft that that carried them them across the your ancestors,” the the Pacific, likened toto today’s today’s feat Pacific, an achievement Kane pridefully pridefully likened feat of of sending men to back off and let sending to the the moon. Better, Better, II thought, thought, to to back off and let him get his system. him get this this pilgrimage pilgrimage worked out out of of his system. When the the got back back to Oahu, maybe maybe we could of canoe got to Oahu, could return to to the the task task of

preparing for the the Tahiti trip. preparing for trip. Two months later, later, when when the finally did did return, itit was Two the canoe finally clear easy time getting getting the clear that that we were not not going going toto have have an easy the project back track. Reversing priorities, putting Hokule‘a’s project back on track. Reversing priorities, putting Hokule'a’s the long long experimental voyage, had cultural mission ahead ofof the had unwittingly opened opened the Hawaiian equivalent of Pandora’s box. the equivalent of box. We had sailed into into the the uncharted waters of of an awakening awakening HawaiWe had sailed ian consciousness and and were being being buffeted by by strange winds and and ian strange winds currents.

and Launch aa magnificent double-canoe amidst much publicity publicity and fanfare be aa faithful reconstruction of fanfare proclaiming it it to to be of an ancient

campaign it the islands advertising advertising it to voyaging canoe; campaign it around the it to their ancestral spaceship; Hawaiians as as their spaceship; then then encourage them them toto

step aboard and of itit whatever they they wish. That became our step and make make of wish. That self-made recipe recipe for for trouble.

First First kahunas started started giving giving us trouble. AA kahuna (kah-hoo(kah-hoo-

Spaceship of of the the Ancestors Spaceship

33 33

nah) religious practitioner nah) isis aa Hawaiian “priest,” “priest,” an indigenous indigenous religious who down from days who claims spiritual spiritual powers handed down from the the ancient days before the coming of Christianity. lot, each before the coming of Christianity. Kahunas are aa divided lot, each jealous of his his own particular specialty, be be itit healing, blessing jealous of particular specialty, healing, blessing buildings, or—although buildings, or—although few few would would openly openly admit admit it—practicing it—practicing Our launching every sorcery. Our launchmq ceremony had had been been an affront to to every kahuna who felt that been the to lead kahuna who felt that he he should should have have been the one chosen to lead the ritual. the ritual. Had one of of these these men been been aa genuine would Had genuine canoe kahuna kahuna we would have gladly gladly engaged engaged him, not only ritual but the have him, not only for for the the ritual but for for the building of old was more building of the the canoe as well, well, for for aa canoe kahuna of of old than aa ritual He was aa master craftsman who the than ritual expert. expert. He who directed the whole operation and shaping whole operation of of canoe building, building, from from the the selection and shaping of the the timbers to to the the ritual ritual launching. launching. For of For the the launching launching of of Hokule'a engaged aa master chanter, chanter, aa Hawaiian scholar Hokule‘a we had had engaged who of the and techwho because of the way way he he applied applied spiritual spiritual devotion and technical expertise expertise to his chanting chanting would would have have been nical to his been considered aa in the the old of those those who proclaim kahuna in old days. days. But But aa number number of who now proclaim to be be kahunas rejected him and and our carefully carefully rethemselves to rejected him and conducted ceremony. To To them, them, the the canoe was searched and “dirty,” ritually ritually impure, and would to Tahiti. “dirty,” impure, and would never make make itit to Tahiti. We had had tapped tapped into of Hawaiian character, character, the the We into the the darker darker side side of aloha, the the warm friendliness and which obverse of of aloha, and compassion compassion for for which Soon many Hawaiians, not just Hawaiians are justly justly famed. Soon just our critics, were “making “making maggots,” to use the kahuna critics, maggots,” to the literal literal translatranslation of of the the Hawaiian verb to foretell tion verb that that means figuratively figuratively to

people went out misfortune. II cannot remember how how many people out of of their way way to how, on the the night the launching, their to tell tell me how, night after after the launching, aa fireball came swooping swooping down from the then out fireball down from the mountains, and and then above the the anchored over the the lagoon lagoon to to hover hover above anchored canoe. The The fireball spirit, they said, a sign was an evil evil spirit, they said, sign that that something something terrible terrible would would happen. That was typical. typical. Other Other signs signs that happen. That that reportedly reportedly appeared appeared around the the canoe were also as harbingers also interpreted interpreted as harbingers of of disaster— never good good fortune. It not long long before aa number of the It was not of Hawaiians working working on the project began began to to complain complain about about strange strange illnesses illnesses that that they they beproject be-

to be of the lieved to be spiritually spiritually caused. Some even dropped dropped out out of the

34 34

HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way to to Tahiti Tahiti The

Others, notably project because, they said, it dangerous.” Others, notably “too dangerous.” it was “too they said, project several of of the regular crewmen, took took to armbands, anklets wearing armbands, to wearing the regular

and made from from the the shiny shiny green the ti plant ti plant of the green leaves of and headbands made (Cordyline), a ritually plant reputed reputed to have protective protective to have important plant ritually important (Cordyline), The effect effect was striking, they were particularly when they striking, particularly powers. The aboard aa similarly when II flew out flew out day when One day Hokule’a. One similarly decorated Hokule‘a. to the canoe at anchorage, II found her found her island anchorage, an outer island at an visit the to visit festooned with leaves, looking looking more like like aa floating floating Christmas ti leaves, with ti tree voyaging canoe. Hokule‘a’s that Hokule'a’s mana (mah-nah), that than aa voyaging tree than

spiritual force essential toto all all Polynesian enterprises, must be be spiritual force protected, told. protected, TI was told. those kahunas had fallen Some of Some of our crew members had fallen prey prey to to those who to exert their project. One held held aa series the project. upon the will upon their will who wished to of meetings with crew members and other Hawaiians involved involved and other of meetings with

in the project he fingered the cracked booms, broken fingered the at which he project at in the paddles other things things that had gone the canoe as with the gone wrong with that had and other paddles and signs problems. These problems, ominously he ominously problems, he spiritual problems. deep spiritual of deep signs of have to to be be corrected— suggestible crewmen, would have the suggestible warned the or else else Hokule’a Hokule‘a would sink sink and and drown drown them. The kahuna even them. The

had bitten off story about how seized how aa shark shark had off upon aa newspaper story seized upon the end of of aa steering steering paddle paddle to proclaim that that the the shark spirit was shark spirit to proclaim the end showing He had idea that that the been made made had been story had the story had no idea wrath. He his wrath. showing his

up by a crewman for for the the benefit of of aa credulous reporter. up by At first this talk, pass. But did But itit did it would pass. hoping it talk, hoping all this ignored all first II ignored At not, to have have second thoughts. The fears and real, and fears were real, thoughts. The forcing me to not, forcing disruptive. We had deep into into an aspect of Hawaiian aspect of had blundered deep disruptive. We culture that all the the and all Christianity and of Christianity coming of the coming had survived the that had other changes wrought wrought over the of last two centuries. Accounts of the last other changes ancient Hawaii are filled filled with with references to to spirits, to evil spirits, to evil sorcerers and and to Early chroniclers to death.” Early “prayed to being “prayed to victims being had been strong Hawaiians, so active on land land the strong that the surprised that been surprised had and susceptible to fears and fears threats and to malevolent threats be so susceptible could be sea, could and sea, of the the unknown. of One man man deeply affected was Kimo Hugho, One deeply affected Hugho, a handsome young young

part-Hawaiian fireman whom Herb Kane had had personally personally selected

to chief on the the for the the nucleus for and the the interisland cruise and be crew chief to be

Hawaiian crew members on the the Tahiti voyage. Kimo

(Kee-mo, (Kee-mo,

Spaceship of of the the Ancestors Spaceship

35 35

for Jim) Jim) was strong and athletic; weights, Hawaiian for strong and athletic; he he lifted lifted weights,

paddled racing canoes, surfed and and had of the the paddled racing had been been a member of department’s elite elite rescue unit. Yet the the optimistic Honolulu fire fire department’s unit. Yet and self-confident image image he had projected during those first and he had projected during those first exhilarating sails sails right right after after launching faded as the the interisland exhilarating launching faded progressed. Kimo still ti-leaf cruise progressed. still cut cut aa striking striking figure; figure; the the ti-leaf and other he wore made made him all the the more headbands and other charms he him look look all dramatic. But But new lines lines on his his face face betrayed betrayed his his worries. He He feared the the possibility possibility of of accidents at He himself seemed seemed feared at sea. He

he had had been cold by by accident prone; once he been bloodied and and knocked cold the flailing handle of from his his grip by aa the flailing of a steering steering paddle paddle torn from grip by passing wave. And And he he had had begun begun asking asking cautiously cautiously about about the passing the possibility of of inscribing and of possibility inscribing prayers within the the canoe hulls hulls and of taking other other measures for taking for spiritual spiritual protection.

might have possible toto have have extricated the ItIt might have been been possible the project project from from the spiritualistic depths into which it was sliding sliding had had the the depths into which it the situation

complicated by for Hawaiians only” only” not been been complicated by aa vigorous vigorous “Hokule‘a for movement.

The growing feeling that that only The growing feeling only Hawaiians should sail sail aboard aboard

Hokule’a was probably probably inevitable, although all the the propaganda Hokule‘a although all about the being the about the canoe being the ancestral spaceship spaceship hastened and and confusing for intensified its its appearance. It It must have have been been confusing for aa Hawaiian from of the the outer islands islands to to behold what thought from one of what he he thought to discover that that haoles as was aa Hawaiian canoe, only only to haoles as as well well as the project project and that aa multiracial crew would sail Hawaiians ran the and that sail to that confusion on Hawaiian faces faces when, when, at to Tahiti. Tahiti. II saw that at outer

island anchorages, II stepped stepped aboard the the canoe and and was introduced island the president president and and cofounder of the Voyaging Voyaging Society. as the of the Society. But But II did did not then the kind my then personally personally experience the kind ofof vocal opposition to to my the canoe that greeted Tommy Tommy Holmes and and a presence on the that had had greeted few other they sailed Hokule'a from from Maui few other haoles haoles when when they sailed aboard Hokule‘a back the last last island itinerary before back to to Molokai, Molokai, the island on the the cruise itinerary before returning returning to to Oahu. Oahu.

Molokai ((Moh-loh-ka-i) of Moh-loh-ka-‘i) isis the the most economically depressed depressed of

the islands; the recent closing that the islands; the closing of of the the pineapple pineapple plantations that had island’s main had been been the the island’s main source of of employment employment had had led led to to unemployment rates of to 40 40 percent. There were a lot of angry unemployment of 30 30 to lot of angry

36 36

HOKULE‘A: HOKULE‘A:

Tahiti Way toto Tahiti The Way The

Kimo and and Buffalo Buffalo young around, some of of whom whom were just just then then starting young Hawaiians around, starting aa militant militant movement for for the return of alienated Hawaiian lands. the of lands. When Hokule‘a pulled pulled into the harbor on Molokai, the moveWhen Hokule'a into the Molokai, the ment’s leaders were waiting. waiting. They were incensed incensed when when they spied They were they spied Tommy and two haole the Tommy and haole benefactors from from Maui amongst the Hawaiian crew. “What are those those haoles doing on the canoe? Isn't haoles doing the canoe? Isn’t Hokule‘a a Hawaiian canoe?” they they asked asked pointedly. pointedly. Hokule'a The in real trouble, and and II was in quandary. The project project was now in real trouble, in aa quandary. Being the haole president president of an increasingly Hawaiian Hawaiian movement movement Being the haole of an was making as out of making me feel feel as of place place as II would be be if if heading heading the the

department or its its women’s studies University’s ethnic ethnic studies department program. Worse, impaired my ability to suggest that that it Worse, it it impaired my ability to act. act. To To suggest it was aa mistake to go around trumpeting Hokule‘a and her cultural to go Hokule'a and her cultural

mission before we completed completed the and back back was the voyage toto Tahiti and to be un-Hawaiian. And what could be be done done to be be unpatriotic, to to be And what when the Voyaging when prominent prominent Hawaiian members of of the Voyaging Society’s Society’s less, spiritual spiritual emphasis, emphasis, and governing board called for for more, not less, and

Spaceship of the Spaceship of the Ancestors

37 37

declared that they had had “the that they “the greatest greatest respect” respect” for for the the kahuna who who had had been been particularly particularly vicious in in his his those of of us who the those who were organizing the A A Hawaiian president president might might have have

criticism of of the the canoe and and project? project? been been in in aa better position position to to

get the get the project project back back on track; track; at at least least he he would not have had had to to bear the stigma stigma of of being bear the being an “uptight “uptight haole.” Yet Yet Herb Kane had had that I1 take job precisely insisted that take the the job precisely because he he believed that that a haole president president would would be able to haole be better able to withstand pressures from from within the the fractionated Hawaiian

community

than than aa Hawaiian

president. II doubt, he foresaw the doubt, however, if if he the difficulties we would encounter.

II did did think hard about stepping stepping down and and assuming think long long and and hard a purely purely advisory advisory role. role. II might might have have done done so had had those advocating “Hokule‘a sailors, and “Hokule’a for for Hawaiians” been been sailors, and had had they they been been interested in the goals of the project. But those making trouble were ested in the goals of the project. But those making not not experienced seamen by by any any stretch of of the the imagination. imagination. They They of kahunas and and would-be spiritualists, Hawaiian were a collection of rights activists and plain opportunists who rights and just just plain who wanted to to use the the canoe to to glorify glorify themselves or their their particular particular cause. Because he he was commanding the the canoe, Herb Herb Kane bore bore the the

brunt of of public public criticism about aa haole haole presence on Hokule‘a Hokule'a and and about the the canoe’s scientific mission. At At this time no attacks were this openly openly directed at at me. However, aa number of of Hawaiian acdid go their way that the quaintances did go out of of their way to to advise me that the word was out out that I should not sail to Tahiti on Hokule‘a. They that I not sail to They said said that had not that they they had not been been delegated delegated toto warn me; me; they they had had just just heard

talk that that it the voyage. talk it would be be unwise for for me to to attempt the How naive itit had think that had been been to to think that scientific research and and cultural could be cultural revival could be easily easily combined in in today’s today’s Hawaii. Angry young Hawaiians feel Angry young feel that that things things haole haole must be be rejected; rejected; haoles and and haole haole culture are their their oppressors. Their ethnic sensitivity, unlike the with which their tivity, so unlike the apparent resignation with their fathers and had accepted of Hawaiian sovereignty, and grandfathers had accepted the the loss loss of their and much old culture, their lands lands and much of of the the old culture, is is beginning beginning to to mirror that of the blacks, Chicanos, Indians and that of the blacks, and other other American minority minority

groups. How could they they accept accept the the fact fact that that the the canoe project— something something

they they defined

as Hawaiian—had

aa research

base? base?

38 38

HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way to to Tahiti Tahiti The

Scientific research is is part part of of that that haole haole world world and and must must be be rejected, rejected,

especially ifif itit aims to to tell tell them them more about their past. Their Their especially their own past.

way toto find find out about about that that past past isis to the elders, look inin way to ask ask the elders, not look books, the ground ground or perform perform experiments. experiments. books, dig dig inin the

e VT

&

) Hanalei Hanalei Bay Bay Although to end Although several several of of us wanted to end the the interisland cruise once the to Oahu with needed modifications, the canoe returned to Oahu and and get get on with

Herb Kane insisted that sail on to that we sail to Kauai (Kow-ah-‘eeh) and and back to to complete complete the back the circuit of of the the islands. The The channel between Oahu and Kauai, Kauai, 65 the widest between any Oahu and 65 miles, miles, is is the any of of the the

populated islands of populated of the the Hawaiian chain, chain, and and it it can be be rough. rough. It It defeated Kamehameha (Kah-may-ha-may-ha), the the warrior chief chief from Hawaii Island who who early early in from in the the European European era conquered conquered all all the islands islands along chain as far then set the along the the chain far west as Oahu and and then set out for Kauai. AA storm struck his warrior-laden canoes in for struck his in midchannel. Many were lost, Many lost, the the rest rest fled fled back back to to Oahu. But But we were to to be be lucky, the way way over at at least. least. lucky, on the The perfect: aa clear, The weather was perfect: clear, warm night night with with gentle gentle trades, rolling swells and current all flowing in the right direction, trades, rolling swells and all flowing in the right boosting boosting us westward toward Kauai. We left left the the western coast of of 39 39

40 40

HOKULE‘A: HOXULE‘A:

The Way to to Tahiti The Way

the north set aa course toward the north to set using aa compass to dusk, using at dusk, Oahu at Oahu the sunset faded into shore of Kauai. As tried into blackness, we tried As the shore of and steering steering by covering the horizon in the low in by stars low the compass and covering the in the that Soon, however, the loom of of the loom of Kauai. Soon, the direction of bore in that bore the inescapable inescapable guide islands the Kauai lighthouse became the guide to the islands to the Kauai lighthouse the ahead. ahead. Although wind was light to 77 knots knots on good 66 to made aa good light we made the wind Although the aa broad reach, wind coming coming over the the stern quarter of the the quarter of the wind with the reach, with starboard hull. The canoe gave gave only only the hint of in roll in of aa roll gentlest hint the gentlest hull. The the ride in the in the enjoyed aa smoother ride have never enjoyed following seas. II have the following rough Hawaiian channel waters. normally rough New to hired by the by the film team hired the canoe was aa three-man film to the New

National Geographic Society Society toto make aa film project for for a of our project film of series to be shown on nationwide public public television. Our Our tie with tie with be shown series to the Society had early in the project. project. in the had come early the National Geographic Society

Largely had illustrated an article article on PolyPolyLargely because Herb Kane had nesian canoes for their magazine, magazine, he he had been able to obtain able to had been for their for story Just rights. Just story rights. exchange for Society inin exchange the Society from the welcome funds from recently them to to make aa with them had concluded an agreement with he had recently he documentary film of the aid to pay help pay to help Although some aid project. Although the project. film of for in the the contract, we received no for an escort vessel was involved in payment for the the film that way so that they that they way so it that preferred it We preferred rights. We film rights. payment for would not not try to tell tell us what what to to do. do. By not accepting pay, we payv, we By not try to reasoned, we would be free from possible interference by film reasoned, we would be free from possible interference by film makers trying the project for the their dramatic of their the benefit of project for direct the to direct trying to interests.

That should have have foreseen what what of naiveté. II should bit of That was another bit

was to for us by the way our reception was staged that staged that by the in store for be in to be morning at Hanalei Bay. Bay. The water, the the blue water, of blue wide semicircle of The wide morning at coral sand beaches and of abrupt green mountains abrupt green backdrop of the backdrop and the coral sand

makes Hanalei (Hah-na-lay) a cinematographer’s delight. South cinematographer’s delight. Pacific South Seas had been filmed epics had Seas epics other South of other and a number of Pacific and there. hosting aa new crop and of cameramen and crop of was hosting Now Hanalei was there. Now sound men headed by by aa film we were film producer producer who, later who, later to to learn, was more suited to learn, than to directing directing one of of those those fantasies than documenting our venture.

The passage across the The the channel was faster than expected. As As

Hanalei

Bay Bay

41 41

the along the the mountains along the north north shore shore of of Kauai took took form form in in the the dawn dawn light, light, the the tall, tall, pale pale film film producer producer anxiously anxiously asked, asked, “Will “Will the the Hanalei people know we're people know we're going going to to get get there there ahead ahead of of schedule?” His His anxiety anxiety was relieved when, when, as we neared the the headland protecting several outrigger protecting Hanalei Hanalei Bay, Bay, several outrigger racing racing canoes canoes were were paddled greet us paddled out out to to greet us and and escort escort the the canoe canoe into into the the bay. bay. Then Then the the conch shells shells sounded, trumpeting our entrance as we rounded the and on shore, the reef. reef. Cameras, on the the canoe and shore, were grinding grinding away now, shifting shifting between us, us, the the outrigger outrigger canoes and and the the scenic surroundings. Once well well inside surroundings. inside the the bay bay we lost lost the the wind wind and and had had

to to start paddling paddling in in order to to reach the the anchorage. Our reward, when when the the anchor was set, set, awaited us in in small canoes and and boats that up alongside. the delight that had had pulled pulled up alongside. To To the delight of of the the film film team, troupes laughing girls—some girls—some local troupes of of laughing local Hawaiians, others others haoles, haoles, hippies recruited from nearby communes by their look—clamhippies from nearby by their bered with fragrant bered aboard, aboard, garlanded garlanded us with fragrant flower leis leis and and embraced us Polynesian Polynesian style. style. It long after after going going ashore that It was not long that aa load load of of beer beer arrived. Guitars were then then produced, produced, and and our crewmen and and their their newly newly

found hippie hippie friends were soon enjoying enjoying a midmorning party. party. AA number of of the the crew were Hawaiian songs songs well. well. The The directing directing his his cameramen

talented musicians, film film producer producer was to this or that to take take this that

and and all all could could sing sing all over the place, all the place, shot, shot, and and making making

sure the the sound sound man was properly properly placed placed to to capture the the music. Our

welcome was indeed warm. Inescapably, however, it welcome it was also also a media event, event, the the first first of of many to to come. they been been taking “Have they taking any any long long sails sails north to to test windward ability?” ability?” I1 asked Tommy Tommy Holmes over the the telephone telephone after after the the canoe had few weeks. “No, had been been on Kauai aa few “No, they're they’re just just going going out day sails,” his disgusted on short day sails,” was his disgusted reply. reply. The canoe was to be on Kauai all of The to be all of September. Departure for for

Tahiti was set set for for April April 1, 1, just just seven months ahead. We could not afford afford to to waste a precious month. There was still still much to to be be done in of testing, in the the way way of testing, making making changes changes in in the the sail sail rig rig and and other other features, features, and and completing completing additional additional preparations preparations for for the the voyage. voyage.

42 49

HOKULE‘A: HOXULE‘A:

The Way Way to to Tahiti Tahiti The

The only only virtue of of having at Kauai was that that Hanalei The having the the canoe at

Bay, like like our launching site, faced into the trades and thereBay, launching site, into the and was therefore an ideal ideal site site for taking long long slants the wind. fore for taking slants against against the wind. To To see exactly how much easting easting the the canoe could could make, all we had had to exactly how much make, all to do do to sail sail out out on aa starboard tack, tack, holding holding her her as close to north was to close to north

possible for for twelve hours or so; so; then then go go over to to the the port as possible port tack, tack, head southeast till till she she fetched up up on the the Kauai in the head Kauai coast, coast, or in the and Oahu. Oahu. The miles made channel somewhere between Kauai and The miles made directly directly eastward would would then then give give us aa good good indication of of how how well the make easting the actual We even well the canoe would make easting on the actual voyage. We had an offer offer from from an experienced yachtsman anchored at at Hanalei had experienced yachtsman to pace with his his yacht. yacht. He He had had sailed sailed his his boat to Tahiti Tahiti and to pace us with boat to and back several times, times, so back so we could could compare Hokule‘a’s Hokule'a’s performance performance with his his to to get get aa realistic measure of of our chances of of making with making enough easting to reach reach Tabhiti. Tahiti. enough easting to But lost. Tommy Tommy Holmes and But those those opportunities were lost. and others others

reported that that Hokule‘a out at midday, sail sail reported Hokule’a would occasionally go go out at midday, around for for a few few hours, hours, then the bay bay before before dark. dark. then be be back back in in the

Except for Kane, Kane, Kimo Hugho Hugho (who (who had left his job as a fireman Except for had left his job to stay stay on the and sometimes one or two others from to the canoe) canoe) and from Oahu, be made up youths who Oahu, the the crew would would be up ofof Kauai youths who knew knew little or nothing nothing about sailing, and and who not want to to little or about sailing, who certainly certainly did did not go out out for for aa hard twenty-four hours hours of of sailing sailing dead against the go hard twenty-four dead against the trades. trades. The third weekend the the canoe was on Kauai flew over to to see The third Kauai II flew

what The atmosphere was bad. bad. The The Kauai people what was happening. The people were net not interested in going sailing, sailing, and and some of of the Oahu crewin going the Oahu men who who also also had drunk at midmorning. had flown flown over were already already drunk at midmorning. There would be be no sailing sailing that that weekend, weekend, so II flew back to There would flew right right back to Honolulu. By the estrangement between Herb Herb Kane and and myself myself had had By now the grown to point that he seldom even bothered to grown to the the point that he to call call me to to consult about about the the canoe; II had had to find what to seek seek him him out out to to find what was happening. He was now treating happening. He treating the the canoe almost almost as ifif itit were totally totally his. his. Many Many others also also felt felt shunted aside. aside. Even Even Tommy Tommy Holmes, Holmes, who had been who had been working working so closely closely with with Kane, Kane, and Kimo and Kimo

Hanalei Hanalei

Bay Bay

43 43

Hugho, personal choice choice as crew chief, Hugho, Kane’s Kane's personal chief, had had become estranged. estranged. Tommy sought me out Tommy sought out aa week week before the the canoe was scheduled to Tommy takes apto return from from Kauai. Usually Usually Tommy takes an ultracasual approach problems with proach to to everything, everything, passing passing over problems with aa smile smile and and a laugh. But But now he he was deadly deadly earnest. laugh. “Look,” he he began began ex(ltedly, excitedly, *‘we're trouble, we're havwere having having trouble, we're having trouble with Herb Kane. We ing with Herb We can’t can't take take it it anymore!” anymore!” When Tommy calmed down down I1 got to talk specifics. When Tommy got him him to talk about about specifics. He roundly and He roundly criticized criticized Kane for for lack lack of of sailing sailing experience and seamanship personality and way seamanship skills, skills, for for aa domineering domineeri ing personality and for for the the way Kane put put showing showing off ofi the the canoe befOIe any real real testing testing and before any and training. training eis your feelings, do others feel this way “Is this this just just vour teelings, or do feel this way too?” too?”

“Kimo and so are lots lots of all “Kimo Hugho Hugho isis behind behmd me, and of others. others, We We all

feel this this way. way. There’s no way go on.” on.” feel way we can go and another man who who had been sailing the Kimo and had regularly regularly been sailing on the They were all all against against Kane canoe also also came to to me at at this this time. They continuing to the canoe, and all cited continuing to captain captain the and they they all cited the the same incident in in his his command to to buttress their their case. It It took took place place on Oahu Saturday morning morning aa month earlier earlier when the canoe was Oahu one Saturday when the little cove at anchored in in aa little at the the foot foot of of Diamond Head. II was there that day. big surf had come up powerful that dav. A A big surf had up overnight. overnight. Sets Sets of of powerful waves were pounding pounding the diagonally across the reef reef and and sweeping sweeping diagonally the the narrow channel leading leading into into the the cove. To To everyone's everyone’s consternation, trying to sail that tion, Kane Kane was trving to organize organize a day day sail that morning. morning. The canoe could could have made made itit out the for the the wind The the pass, for wind was blowing directly from The trick blowing directlv from the the shore shore out out to to sea. The trick would have have been wait just the pass pass for then been to to wait just inside inside the for aa lull lull between sets, sets, then unfurl the sails through the pass before the the next set set of of unfurl the sails and and boom through the pass

Coming back back in the problem: problem: the the canoe would waves came. Coming in was the have have to to beat beat back back directly directly against against the the trades. Even Even if if there there were time, could not time, we could not tack tack the the canoe in in because the the pass pass was too to allow allow Hokule‘a to to swing swing from from one tack tack to to another. Nor Nor narrow to

could depend on our outboard motor—it had could we safely safely depend had aa nasty nasty habit of of sputtering to to aa stop at crucial moments. habit stop at moments.

44 44

HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way to to Tahiti Tahiti The

up trying toto drum up the beach trying and down the up and As Kane stalked up As

trying of us trying awful vision of morning, an awful that morning, sailing that go sailing to go support to support The sails sails are mind. The my mind. in my flashed in pass flashed the pass to the through to back through get back to to get

pushing us toward is pushing the high-revving outboard motor is furled, the furled, quits. the pass. Just Just at the motor quits. As As we attempt to attempt to the entrance the at the the pass. restart it, the swells start toto hump up on on the it, the hump up the horizon. Soon Soon aa curling waves is set of of curling us, washing powerful set the canoe washing the powerful is upon upon us, that ran aground broadside onto the the reef aground where, like reef where, like aa catamaran that there a year she is is ground there year earlier, earlier, she into kindling ground into on the the sharp kindling on sharp coral heads. coral heads. “No, II want to go. The The canoe can take She’s “No, to go. go. We We can go. take it. it. She’s been in surf like this before,” was Kane’s angry reply to those been in surf like this before,” Kane’s angry reply to those who who counseled against against going going out. Kane was affronted by by the the idea that idea that Hokule‘a could could not not handle the surf and and would would not the surf not survive an encounter with with the the reef. reef. He He reacted as ifif he he had had been that he he been told told that himself was inadequate. warned, “Herb AA long-time long-time acquaintance of of Kane had had earlier warned, “Herb will never survive the too much for him. will the canoe. It It will will become too much for him. The canoe will become part of himself, bigger than life, and The will part of himself, bigger than life, and he he will become bigger bigger than than life.” life.” Kane’s Kane’s identification with with the the canoe will

had been the interisland tour progressed. progressed. He He had had had been growing growing as the lately begun accepting full lately begun full credit for for starting starting the the project project and and designing the he did did not to correct commentators designing the canoe; he not bother to at public gatherings, or reporters, reporters, who who referred to Hokule‘a as at public gatherings, to Hokule'a “Herb Kane's “his canoe” “Herb Kane’s canoe.” canoe.” Now Now he he was being being told told that that “his canoe” could not make it safely through the surf-filled pass, and he could not make it safely through the pass, and he was incensed.

finally prevailed. Reason finally prevailed. The The canoe remained safely safely atat anchor, anchor, and we started on some routine maintenance tasks. tasks. and few hours hours the the beach beach was jammed jammed with to Within aa few with spectators to see finish ofof aa canoe race. Outrigger see the the finish Outrigger racing starting racing canoes starting from the from the other other side side of island were due of the the island to come through due to through the the pass pass to to a a finish finish line line in in the the cove opposite opposite our anchorage. anchorage. Modern Hawaiians may may not not be be sailors but but they they are great great surfers, surfers, and and the the

waves sweeping sweeping across the the pass pass excited them. Many Many aa canoe race

has has been been won at at the the last last minute when when aa lagging lagging canoe caught caught aa wave and and passed wave passed the the leaders to be first to be first across the the line. line. That That

Hanalei

Bay Bay

45 45

prospect the danger of surfing surfing prospect was on everyone's everyone’s mind, mind, as was the danger of through the the pass. misjudged wave could send send through pass. AA false false move or aa misjudged aa canoe crashing onto the reef. crashing the reef. One coming in. in. One by by one the the long, long, narrow racing racing canoes started coming Most made made itit through sets; aa few few successfully Most through the the pass pass between sets; caught medium-size waves and and surfed in. Then, Then, just as aa big set caught surfed in. just as big set was building horizon, two two canoes showed up off the the building up up on the the horizon, up off pass. They were side side by by side; side; neither had lead. Without pass. They had aa clear clear lead.

hesitation both began toto hump hump both teams kept kept paddling paddling asas the the waves began up. Their parallel courses put them right before the first big up. parallel put them right the first big wave of perfect position surf slide slide to to the the finish of the the set, set, in in perfect position for for aa long long surf finish line. The growing picked up the canoes and and started sliding line. The growing wave picked up the sliding them at an accelerating pace. But the too big. them forward at pace. But the wave was too big. As the stern of of the As it it peaked peaked itit passed passed under under the the canoe lagging lagging slightly behind the leaving the slightly the other, other, leaving the steersman helpless, helpless, his his paddle in midair. The The canoe spun spun out out of control, skewskewpaddle stranded in of control, ing the right and ramming ramming the Both capsized ing to to the right and the other. Both capsized and and were quickly reef. Miraculously the quickly pushed pushed onto the the reef. the erring erring canoe washed the reef washed over the reef without serious damage; damage; the the smashed to silently watched the to bits. bits. As As we silently the crying crying what pieces of find what pieces of their their shattered canoe they they could find finish line, we could but think think that finish line, could not help help but that might might Hokule‘a’s fate had Hokule'a’s fate had we gone gone sailing. sailing.

other other was

crew swim

across the the have been have been

The question the management of of Hokule‘a, and especially The question of of the Hokule'a, and especially the of who who should should command her her for for the the Tahiti Tahiti trip, had to the issue issue of trip, had to

be faced. set up up a meeting for the following following week. week. be faced. II set for the First the had to to be to Oahu. Oahu. Departure Departure was First the canoe had be sailed back back to

set for for that night. Kane was optimistic; he felt set that Friday Friday night. optimistic; he felt they they would reach Oahu during the not share share his his reach Oahu sometime during the weekend. II did did not optimism. Hokule‘a had not yet been tested on aa long long windward optimism. Hokule'a had not yet been tested

passage, and and the the problems problems with hulls taking and the with the the hulls taking on water and the would be her inefficient sails sails remained uncorrected. This This crossing crossing would be her severest trial, trial, for the canoe would have to be tacked against for the have to be against the the wind, swells swells and reach Oahu. she could wind, and current to to reach Oahu. Still, Still, T I thought thought she could make three or four of hard sailing. Hanalei make it—after it—after three four days days of hard sailing. Hanalei isis 95 95

46 46

HOKULE‘A: HOKULE A:

The Way to Tahiti Tahiti The Way to

miles from long, shallow tacks the canoe would miles from Oahu, Oahu, but but the the long, tacks that that the be add up up to be forced to to take take would add to aa sailing sailing distance ofof several hundred miles. miles. Maybe Maybe late late Monday Monday or or sometime Tuesday they Tuesday they might show up. up. might show Sunday morning, thirty-six hours after after departure, departure, II was workSunday morning, thirty-six hours work-

ing the office had built built below my my house, sits high ing inin the office II had house, which sits high on a ridge overlooking the The sea below was flecked with with ridge the ocean. The whitecaps, and and fresh fresh winds whitecaps, winds were buffeting buffeting the the house. That That was fairly normal trade trade wind wind weather, weather, nothing nothing to to be fairly be concerned about. about.

Yet already received several anxious telephone calls from Yet II had had already telephone calls from of crewmen. There There had not been single radio relatives of had not been aa single radio transmis-

sion from from the the canoe, and and she she had had not been spotted. Probably Probably she been spotted. she is thought, out of sight sight of land. And And that is tacking tacking way way up up north, north, II thought, out of of land. that damned radio radio must be be out again. rang once more. again. Then the the phone phone rang more.

Very Fortunate Accident’ AA Very “Ben, have have you you heard?” began began the the excited caller. “Hokule‘a is “Ben, caller. “Hokule'a is sinking! I've I’ve been listening to just sinking! been listening to aa Kauai Kauai radio radio station. station. They They just The canoe isis sinking sinking off off Kauail!” Kauai!” flashed the the news. The II did not want to believe her. How could sinking? did to believe her. could Hokule‘a Hokule'a be be sinking? do not sink. They They swamp when when the hulls fill Wooden canoes do not sink. the hulls fill with with water, or they capsize. In they remain afloat, awash water, they capsize. In either either case they afloat, awash in the the sea, sea, and and do go down like yachts with metal metal in do not not go down like yachts weighted weighted with ballast and hung up and aa heavy heavy engine. engine. After After my my caller hung up II dialed dialed the the station. Their first still first report report was incorrect, but but the the news was still

bad. Hokule‘a was swamped swamped 10 10 miles miles off bad. Hokule’a off the the southeast coast of of Kauai, and the the Coast Guard was on the the way. way. Kauai, and II raced upstairs, blurted blurted out the awful news to raced upstairs, the awful to my my wife wife and and left for for the the airport. Luckily II was able to board immediately left airport. Luckily able to board aa Kauai flight flight right taking my my seat seat II asked asked the right away. Before taking the pilot pilot to lookout for for the the canoe. He by to keep keep aa lookout He seemed curiously curiously unmoved by

47 47

48 48

HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way to to Tahiti The

about so excited about why II was so probably wondered why and probably the disaster and the

my state. for my word for right word the right not the swamping. Excited was not aa canoe swamping.

had aa nauseous and II had my hands pounding, my My cold and hands were cold heart was pounding, My heart of the feeling that lose Hokule'a Hokule‘a or, the crew. or, worse, some of might lose that we might feeling

Just the plane plane started descending spotted descending toward Kauai II spotted Just as the something like aa canoe, or some It looked like far below. It the sea far in the something in {60°

159°

158°

1s7°

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kind of craft, craft, lying in the the sca sea with white crests churning churning kind of lying broadside in with white all around it. But we were too high to was, all it. But too high to be be sure. Whatever itit was, II was glad afloat. glad it it was afloat. Once out out of plane II made my nearby harbor. harbor. Once of the the plane my way way to to aa nearby

what had had happened. happened. Only Only one hull hull of of the There II learned what the canoe swamped. She She had had run into trouble in was swamped. into trouble in the the channel around dawn, the out and and they Tommy Holmes, Holmes, dawn, the radio was out they had had no flares. flares. Tommy that the past Kauai and and out out of afraid that the canoe would would drift drift past of interisland shipping lanes, had and started started paddling shipping lanes, had taken taken aa surfboard and paddling for for shore the alarm. shore to to raise the few hours after he the disheartened crew crew AA few hours after he paddled paddled off, off, the

“A Very “A Very Fortunate Accident”

49 49

spotted aa vessel moving spotted moving

fast fast toward toward them. them. The The canoe had had swamped slightly of the Oahu and swamped slightly north north of the route between Qahu and Kauai used newly inaugurated hydrofoil used by by aa newly hydrofoil service, and and they they had had fortunately drifted right into the path of the only hydrofoil fortunately right into the path of the only hydrofoil that day. day. Ironically, Ironically, the scheduled that the craft craft was the the Kamehameha, after the had once named after the warrior chief chief whose whose invading invading canoes had swamped in the same channel. The hydrofoil captain radioed the swamped in the channcl. The hydrofoil captain the Coast Guard, to pick Guard, stopped stopped to pick up up the the National Geographic film film team and young and and some young and frightened frightened crew members, and and resumed her course for spotted, still her for Kauai. On On the the way way Tommy Tommy was spotted, still

paddling picked up. up. He it, paddling for for shore, shore, and and was picked He could have have made it, he although Tommy did admit that he he said, said, although Tommy did admit to to being being so exhausted that he

kept falling struggled to kept falling asleep asleep as he he struggled to keep keep paddling. paddling. Hokule‘a later when we spotted spotted Hokule'a was a sad sad sight sight a few few hours later her being towed toward the harbor. The The starboard hull down, her being the harbor. hull was down, completely submerged except except for the tips tips of prow and completely submerged for the of the the prow and sternpieces, hull was thrust thrust up to one pieces, while while the the port port hull up and and canted over to side. The deckhouse was gone, and the crew left on board was side. The gone, and the left clinging the rail port hull. Then, just clinging to to the rail along along the the port hull. Then, just at at the the harbor the canoe and and dumped entrance, cross-swells caught caught the dumped water into into the port hull, hull, which then then also began to the time the port also began to settle. By By the time she she had had been maneuvered alongside been mancuvered alongside the the pier, pier, the the canoe was totally totally swamped. Both hulls were completely swamped. Both hulls completely filled filled with with water and and the the raised deck deck was awash. Using high-speed pumps supplied the Coast Guard, Using high-speed supplied by by the Guard, and and with aid of the pulling with the the aid of stout hausers and and the pulling power of of aa heavy heavy truck, we were able lever up up first and then other, truck, able to to lever first one hull hull and then the the other, pumping the water out out of each in in turn. There would would have pumping the of each have been been no way we could have gotten the canoe floating again at way could have gotten the floating again at sea

unless we had had pumps, airbags airbags and and probably probably an assisting assisting vessel. According swamped far According to to old old Hawaiian accounts, double-canoes swamped far from shore were usually lost forever. Unlike outrigger canoes, from shore usually lost outrigger big impossible to to bail particularly big double-canoes are virtually virtually impossible bail out, out, particularly in only one hull hull isis flooded, buoyancy of in heavy heavy seas. Even if if only flooded, the the buoyancy of

the the at or below the depressed at the flooded one depressed keeps the hull keeps the other hull than water level, that waves push in faster faster than push water in to itit that level, or so near to it out. it can be be bailed out.

50 50

HOKULE‘A: HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way to to Tahiti Tahiti The

By the canoe was floating quietly in in the the water, and and By nightfall nightfall the floating quietly what been lost lost was spread spread out out over the dock. Never what gear gear had had not been the dock. Never had of sailing sailing to to Tahiti so remote as as at that had the the chances of Tahiti seemed seemed so at that moment of of stocktaking. stocktaking. It It was not not only only the the near loss of Hokule‘a loss of Hokule'a

that was depressing. The canoe had swamped 10 10 miles east of of that depressing. The had swamped Kauai; in in thirty-six thirty-six hours hours of of tacking tacking for had made made only Kauai; for Oahu Oahu she she had only 18 miles miles of of casting! easting! At At that that painfully slow rate 18 painfully slow rate of of windward sailsailing we would would have at sea for to make make enough enough ing have to to stay stay at for months months to easting to reach Tahiti. other things, things, changes changes would have easting to reach Tahiti. Among Among other have to be be made made in in the the manifestly manifestly inefficient sail rig before to sail rig before we could could even think about about attempting the the voyage. The attitudes of of Herb Herb Kane and his his chief chief lieutenants, Tommy The Kane and Tommy Hugho, made the the already Holmes and and Kimo Kimo Hugho, already dismal dismal situation even worse. Kane wanted to fix up to fix up the the canoe immediately; he he minimized the damages said only the damages and and said only minor repairs repairs were needed before she she could sail sail again. again. Tommy Tommy and did not agree; agree; nor did did they they could and Kimo did want to to sail sail under under Kane bitter in in their Kane again. again. They They were openly openly bitter their of Kane's Kane’s leadership, and Kane in denunciation of leadership, and in turn turn raised raised the the question of their negligence negligence since they they were on watch at at the the time question of their time

the swamping occurred. To have an open open blowup blowup over the the the swamping To have swamping would have project and and probably dehave shattered the the project probably destroyed chances for for making making the changes in in the stroyed the necessary changes the canoe and in in the the way way itit was operated. So at Voyaging Society and operated. So at the the Voyaging Society Board Board of meeting the the following week, against against much of Directors meeting following week, much opposition, all discussion of the swamping swamping and II quashed quashed all of the and instituted aa formal board investigate thoroughly the board of of inquiry inquiry with with the the mandate to to investigate the causes of of the the swamping and and to to make make recommendations for for necessary changes in the the canoe and and its changes in its management. After several several weeks weeks of and deliberations, the After of interviews and the board, board, the Korean-American catamaran designer designer chaired by by Rudy Rudy Choy, Choy, the who had worked worked out the lines lines of of Hokule'a’s Hokule‘a’s hulls, hulls, presented its who had out the presented its

report to aa somber group of Voyaging Society report to group of Society directors. The immediate cause of of the swamping was readily readily apparent. The the swamping When hard on the the wind wind the that the the When sailed sailed hard the canoe heeled over so so that

leeward hull hull was partially partially depressed. depressed. Waves funneling funneling between the hulls washed against and occasionally over the the leeward the hulls against and leeward hull, hull,

especially the the stern section, which rides rides more deeply deeply in the water water especially in the

cA Very Very Fortunate Accident’ Accident” “A

51 51

than the bow when the is trimmed for sailing, than the bow the canoe is for windward sailing. Neither the the caulking the crossbeam lashing lines enter the the caulking where the lashing lines hulls the gunwales gunwales kept hulls nor the the canvas covers over the kept the the water out out

completely. AA light light decking decking within the hulls below the gunwales the hulls the gunwales covering series of of supposedly supposedly watertight did not covering a series watertight compartments did not

help; through the the seams and the unsecured help; water worked through and under the hatch covers. We had run into into this We had this problem problem of of the the hulls hulls taking taking on water on the first channel crossing to Maui when the canoe had come very very the first crossing to Maui when the had close to swamping, but nothing had had been been done done about close to swamping, but nothing about itit during during the intervening months when when the the the canoe was on tour. The The sea had had been especially last attempted crossing; not been especiallv rough rough on this this last crossing; it it was

bracket for (which was required required to aa metal metal bracket for the the outboard motor (which to get in in and harbors) that turned aa dangerous dangerous condition into into get and out of of harbors) that turned after leaving aa near disaster. disaster. Usually Usually the the bracket was retracted after leaving

port. This time for port. This for some reason itit was left left down. Located between the hulls hulls adjacent to the of the the starboard hull, hull, the the adjacent to the stern section of the

bracket kept of the swells and kept hitting hitting the the tops tops of the swells and deflecting deflecting them against the hull, which the time time of of the the swamping swamping against the starboard hull, which at at the was the hull. Due Due to to lack lack of rigorous inspection the leeward, leeward, depressed depressed hull. of rigorous and coupled with with the and bailing bailing procedures, procedures, coupled the dissension between

Kane and at the of the and his his lieutenants (who (who at the time of the swamping were apparently talking Kane into into aborting apparently more concerned with with talking aborting the the trip turning back the water trip and and twrning back toto Kauai than than keeping keeping tabs tabs on the

level), the light light level), the the stern section flooded completely. completely. Then Then the plywood decking gave gave way. forward, quickly plywood decking way. Water surged surged forward, quickly filling filling after compartment through compartment after through the the negligently negligently ununtil the the whole whole hull secured hatches hatches until hull was swamped. swamped.

But these only the the immediately apparent causes of of the these were only the disaster. “It is gravely propro“It is our inescapable inescapable conclusion,” conclusion,” Rudy Rudy Choy Choy gravely nounced, “that due to to lack lack of of seamanship, an nounced, “that Hokule‘a Hokule'a swamped swamped due of knowledgeable command at and the the omission of of absence of at sea and

acceptable and procedures acceptable standards and procedures for for all all oceangoing vessels. The euphoric euphoric aura present during the The present during the launching launching and and most so-called training training

trips whether trips

day day sailing sailing or interisland

jaunts, jaunts,

the the

that remarkable success of of Hokule“a despite major major warning warning signs signs that Hokule‘a despite

52 52

HOKULE‘A: HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way to Tahiti The to Tahiti

and organizational deficiencies in in fact serious command and fact existed, existed, and the the lack problems due due to and lack of of serious problems to favorable weather condicondiand good all contributed toto laxity and poor poor seamanship tions and good luck luck all laxity and which led inevitably the swamping.” which led inevitably toto the Following seafaring the report Following seafaring tradition, tradition, the report declared that that Herb Herb Kane, captain, was responsible for the swamping. Blame also Kane, as captain, for the Blame also was assigned his officers, Tommy, Kimo and and the navigator, for assigned to to his officers, Tommy, the navigator, for their to duty. duty. Final Final responsibility responsibility was placed their inattention to placed on the the

Voyaging Society We all agreed. The The directors, and and Society directors. We all agreed. especially myself as president, had been in allowing allowing condicondiespecially myself president, had been remiss in

tions to to develop led to to the the report develop that that led the swamping. But But the report did did not not dwell to blame. At At my my urging, urging, Rudy the dwell on who who was to Rudy had had made made the

report aa forward-looking document. The The swamping was described report as “a “a very bare our deficiencies and and very fortunate accident” that that laid laid bare gave gave us a second chance to to correct them them before before the the trip trip toto Tahiti. Rudy, warming to his role as technical advisor, advisor, then then went on Rudy, warming to his role to outline the report’s recommendations. These included constructo the report’s tion of watertight compartments with with hatches that that could be tion of truly truly watertight could be

easily and completely secured, and other other easily and secured, provision ofof bilge bilge pumps and safety captain and safety equipment, selection of of an experienced captain and rigorous rigorous selection and training of for the the voyage. and training of a crew for The report was accepted The report accepted unanimously. Enough Enough time had had elapsed since the the swamping for cool down down and elapsed since for people people to to cool and gain gain aa better perspective of of what had of the the crisis better had occurred. The The worst of get back to work. work. Rudy was over; we could could now get back to Rudy Choy Choy assumed the of aa newly the chairmanship chairmanship of newly constituted canoe committee that that and selection of of captain captain and was to to oversee the the modifications and and for barging barging the the crew. Tommy Tommy and and II worked out out arrangements for canoe back and berthing back to to Honolulu Harbor Harbor and berthing her her at at the the University’s oceanographic facility. facility. Thanks to to some timely timely donations, sity’s including another handsome gift Penelope Gerbode-Hopper, including gift from from Penelope California, we were able able to our benefactor from from California, to hire hire boatbuilders, purchase materials and and get get started on on the purchase materials the modifications.

The construction of of truly truly watertight The watertight compartments was the the most crucial from the the point crucial modification from point of of view of of safety. safety. The flimsy flimsy compartments that been hurriedly hurriedly installed in The that had had been in Hokule‘a’s hulls date had unhappy Hokule'a’s hulls to to meet the the launching launching date had been been an unhappy

“A Very Very Fortunate Accident” “A

53 53

mating of haole boatbuilding with Polynesian Polynesian canoe design. We mating of haole boatbuilding with design. We

could have ripped out the the ineffective decking decking to open up up the could have ripped to open the hulls so that that they they could could be inspected and But hulls be easily easily inspected and bailed bailed out. But that particularly vulnerable to that would have have left left us particularly to swamping in in aa gale gale or or aa hurricane. Many have been Many aa Polynesian Polynesian canoe must have been lost at sea in in stormy stormy weather, weather, and and we were not willing to to risk risk lives lives lost at not willing against the odds; primary object object was to to test sailing peragainst the odds; our primary test sailing pernot survivability. survivability. We We thereformance and and navigational navigational accuracy, not therefore had about installing installing aa watertight watertight decking and fore had no qualms qualms about decking and compartment system system in in the hulls. the hulls. We were not not alone alone in in thinking thinking that that this this modification was We essential. The The Coast Guard was looking looking over our shoulder. They They have the right by law to prevent any vessel they declare unseahave the right by law to prevent any vessel they worthy port. The had raised the the question question worthy from from leaving leavi ing port. The swamping swamping had of Hokule‘a’s seaworthiness. The Coast Guard Guard had had another recent of Hokule'a's seaworthmess. The

canoe disaster in in mind: just Hokule‘a just before Hokule'a experimental hurriedly in in experimental double-canoe built built hurriedly pete managed toto sail sail downwind pete with with us had had managed the Islands, although the Marquesas Islands, although not not without

swamped, another California to to comfrom San to from San Diego Diego to trouble. En En route

several crossbeams failed and the yacht had to tow the the several failed and the escorting escorting yacht had to several days. short stay stay in in the canoe for for scveral davs. After After aa short the Marquesas, Marquesas, during during which most of the crew deserted, the hastily hastily repaired of the deserted, the repaired canoe left left for beginning of the winter North for Hawaii, just just at at the the beginning of the winter storm season. North of the equator of the equator they they ran into into aa storm. The The weak weak crossbeams

snapped, then both both hulls hulls turned inward and Luckily snapped, then and swamped. swamped. Luckily the got much the escort boat boat picked picked up up all all survivors. The The incident got much

publicity the Coast Guard scrutinize our publicity inin Hawaii and and made the canoe even more closely. closely.

Y. X ey

f

Kawika We needed aa captain captain for We for Hokule‘a, Hokule’a, someone

with with extensive sailing experience. Rudy Choy had had the the experience experience but but catamaran sailing Rudy Choy to be be considered, as Kane, Holmes and and I. declined to as did did Kane, I. Who Who then then for this this all-important job? job? could we get get for There was one additional additional qualification qualification in back of of everyone’s everyone’s in back mind: should be Polynesian, preferably mind: the the captain captain should be Polynesian, preferably Hawaiian. This narrowed the considerably, but in my my This the field field considerably, but one name stuck stuck in

his nickname, the mind: Kawika. Kawika (Kah-vee-kah) is is really really his the Hawaiian way saying David, David, which which isis not not his way of of saying his name

at all all. at

Because his his real real name is is a tongue tongue twister—Elia Kapahulehua (El-ee-ah Kah-pah-hoo-lay-hoo-ah )—most people him just (El-ee-ah Kah-pah-hoo-lay-hoo-ah)—most people called called him just Kawika. Kawika. : Kawika, aa heavyset heavyset man of height, with pleasant Kawika, of medium height, with aa pleasant face and and manner, was then in his as face then in his mid-forties. He He is is about about as Hawaiian as anyone can be today. As As far as he be today. far back back as he can trace on both sides sides of of his family there both his family there are none but but Hawaiian ancestors. 54 54

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(Above) Hokule'a (Above) Hokule‘a approaching Maui from from Honolulu

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(Above) Kealanahele and Ka‘ai before before the the temple temple altar altar (Above) and Ka'ai

(Below Hokule’‘a full full and and bye bye (Below) )Hokule'a

Kawika

55 fa

He is is also of those those rare Hawaiians who who knows Hawaiian, aa He also one of

language he he speaks speaks both fluently and and beautifully. He Ile learned his his language both fluently tongue on the the small small island of of Niihau Niithau (Nee-‘ee-how), (Nee-‘ee-how), off off mother tongue the Niihau is the southwest coast of of Kauai. Nithau is Hawaii’s forbidden island; island, none but but Hawaiians may may live and Hawaiian is is the the language language live there, there, and of the and school. So So Kawika had had the the rare opportunity of of of the home home and growing up up in in aa totally totally Hawaiian setting, setting, enjoying enjoying a rural rural growing Hawaiian lifestyle lifestyle greatly greatly different from from that that of of the the vast majority majority of who live in Honolulu and and other other urban and and suburban of Hawaiians who live in settings. settings.

Kawika began sailing sailing catamarans in in Kawika began to Rudy to Honolulu, Honoluly, he he started crewing crewing on Rudy at at Waikiki Beach. Although Although on Niihau

when, after after moving moving 1949 when, Choy’s Choy’s beach beach catamaran sailing sailing canoes had had long long

since disappeared, and and Kawika’s Kawika's sailing sailing experience there there was since to boyhood projects of of making making rafts rafts and and using using his his confined to boyhood projects mother’s sheets for sails, sails, he he quickly quickly took took to to catamaran sailing. sailing. sheets for Within aa few few years years he he was the the captain captain of of a large large catamaran used used for for sunset dinner dinner cruises off off Waikiki. These cruises are as much musical as outings; to as nautical outings; to be be able able to to sing sing and and to to play play aa guitar is ukulele and and aa guitar is almost almost as as much much of of aa job job requirement requirement as as sailing sailing ability. ability. Here Kawika also also excelled, excelled, so much so that that he he and and his his crew caught caught the the attention of of film film promoter Mike Mike Todd and and his Taylor, and ended up up playing playing as “The his wife wife Elizabeth Taylor, and ended Boys” in in aa Hawaiian restaurant in in New York. Catamaran Boys” he went to Los Angeles, Angeles, where he he landed aa From New New York York he to Los job with Western Airlines and and started sailing sailing again again with with Rudy Rudy job with Choy, who had had also Choy, who also moved to to California to to start a catamaran design and construction firm. design and firm. This This time Kawika was racing racing catamarans, not catering catering to to tourists, although although his his Hawaiian experience served him him well. in demand as aa steersman perience well. He He was soon in and managed to four straight and sail sail handler, handler, and and managed to sail sail in in four straight Transpac Transpac from California to to Hawaii, Hawaii, including including two in in catamaran races from which he was aa watch watch captain captain on the the Seasmoke, Seasmoke, aa fast fast Choy Choy which he was that finished first catamaran that first in in both both races. eventually returned to to work evenings evenings as aa Kawika eventually to Hawaii to captain for for Rudy Rudy Choy’s newly inaugurated catamaran cruises captain Choy’s newly and days days as an air air cargo cargo agent agent for for Western Airlines. II first first heard heard and

56 56

HOXULE‘A: HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way to The to Tahiti

freight air freight us air helped us He helped job. He his day day job. with his in connection with him in of him of

he tore coast; then then he the coast; other materials inin from the and other plywood and some plywood the the along along sail sail a a on Nalehia captain captain him him had I bill! Later I had the bill! up the up not had not But II had blessing. But her aa formal coast and formal Hawaiian blessing. give her and give seen him day of launching, when he him since the the day of the the launching, he had had served on the crew that that took took Hokule‘a Hokule'a for the ritual sea outing. for her her ritual outing. It took took me some time to to realize fully why Kawika, It fully why Kawika, and and some

other Hokule’a who also expert expert other Hawaiians interested in in Hokule‘a who were also sailors, out on those those first first sea trials trials after after the launching sailors, never came out the launching

or on the the interisland trips during the the cruise. “Watermen” had trips during had taken over the the canoe, driving away the taken driving away the sailors. sailors. used in in Hawaii for expert surfer “Waterman” isis aa term used for an expert surfer and and

canoe paddler; to be “top waterman” isis to paddler; to be called a “top great to receive a great compliment. But says nothing sailing ability. But itit says nothing about about sailing ability. Typically, Typically, sailors, certainly watermen are not not sailors, certainly not not experienced experienced blue-water sailors. As As one cynical cynical Hawaiian later later told told me, they are really me, they really “shallow-water men.” men.” From From early early on in in the the project project watermen had had got grip upon upon got aa grip the the canoe that that never could could fully fully be be shaken. shaken. II was partially at partially at fault. fine thing fault. II thought thought itit would be be aa fine get young thing to to get young Hawaiian

canoe paddlers sailing Hokule‘a; paddlers had had done done paddlers involved in in sailing Hokule'a; paddlers aa good during the good job job of of handling handling Nalehia during the 1966 But while 1966 trials. trials. But II soon became disenchanted with with having having only only surfers and and paddlers paddlers crew Hokule'a, Hokule‘a, Kane Kane and and his his licutenants lieutenants kept kept pushing pushing the the idea idea that that watermen were the ideal crew members. Why? so the ideal Why? Because, so their theory theory went, Hokule‘a was totally totally different from any other other their went, Hokule'a from any sailing sailing craft, craft, even aa catamaran. Watermen, with with their their unique unique paddling canoes and and surfing surfing giant be experience paddling giant waves, would be much to sailing much more adapted adapted to sailing a voyaging voyaging canoe than than anyone practiced only only in in sailing sailing modern craft. craft. practiced With With that that theory theory in in vogue vogue itit isis little little wonder that that men who who were

expert sailors but but who who supposedly supposedly lacked lacked watermen credentials expert were either either pushed pushed toto. one side side or just just plain put off off by by the the plain put absurdity absurdity of of the the situation. After After the the launching asked to launching Kawika asked to go go out out sailing sailing on the the canoe; after after aa couple couple of of rebuffs he he got got the the message and and gave gave up. up. message Now that Now that the the running running of of the the canoe had had been been reorganized, reorganized, itit

was time time toto try try toto bring bring Kawika back back into into the the project—as project—as our our

Kawika

57 57

captain, if if possible. possible. II went toto Kawika and and raised the captain, the question. Yes, he he would be be interested. Then Then II went to to the Voyaging Society Society Yes, the Voyaging They were excited by by the particularly the the directors. They the prospect, particularly Hawaiian members who gratified that who were gratified that the the search for for an expert captain captain had had ended ended with with the the nomination of of aa Hawaiian. expert There There was one obstacle to to bringing bringing Kawika on board as

captain. We captain, someonc who could start captain. We needed aa full-time captain, someone who working working as soon after after Christmas as possible possible and and stick stick with with the the project till till the the canoe returned in in July. July. Yet Yet Kawika had to hold hold project had to down two jobs to make ends ends meet in in expensive Honolulu. There down jobs to was no way way he he could take take seven months off off without pay, pay, especially

since his his wife with the the care of of their their handicapped since wife was occupied occupied with child and and could child could not work. work, The took aa great great deal deal of of arranging, was to to get get The solution, which took half of of Kawika’s salary salary paid paid out of of an educational grant—on the the half basis that he would be basis that he would be teaching teaching both both crewmen and, and, in in aa series of of public public about public lectures, the the general general public about canoe sailing sailing and and proper other half half of of his his salary salary was Hawaiian sailing sailing terminologyv. terminology. The The other paid by by his his employer, employer, Western Airlines, as their their contribution to to paid Hawaii's of the Hawaii’s celebration of the Bicentennial. to start work Even before Western Airlines released Kawika to to him him for for help. help. Talk Talk of of the the canoe on the the canoe, II had had to to turn to being cursed was growing. growing. The The day day after after the the swamping a being front-page story, XKAHUNA PREDICTED TROUBLES, CHARGES front-page story, headlined KAHUNA gave aa great great deal deal of of publicity publicity to to aa leading leading TABOOS VIOLATED, gave kahuna kahuna critic who who had had captured captured a following following among Hawaiian members of of our group. Then, Then, to to make matters worse, word word spread spread that Kimo Hugho Hugho had had been been warned that that should haoles sail sail on that sink and he, Kimo, Kimo, would die. die. Hokule‘a, the the canoe would sink and he, approached Kawika during his lunch lunch hour hour at at Western When II approached during his about this this talk talk of and threats, threats, he he was not at at all all Airlines about of curses and surprised. Kawika, Kawika, who who hardly hardly betrays betrays any any emotion when he he surprised. speaks, looked more sad than disgusted disgusted when when he he replied, replied, “I’ve “T've speaks, sad than

been many people people who who are jealous jealous of of the the canoe been hearing hearing about so many and who who are mad mad about about how how you you folks folks are running running it. it. You, You, Kimo, Kimo, and

Hokule‘a—all of of you you have have a heavy heavy weight. weight. I’ve I've already already been been

58 58

HOKULE‘A: uwokULE‘A:

The Way to Tahiti Way to The

again to all stop all to stop have the the canoe blessed again that we should should have feeling that feeling us.” help us.” to help these bad feelings. I[ want to to ask ask Kahu to bad feelings. these

in had in for reverend; Kawika had is Hawaiian for Kahu Kahu (Kah-hoo) is or kahu leading kahu (Ah-kah-kah), Hawaii’s leading mind Reverend Akaka (Ah-kah-kah), mind to bless bless conupon to called upon is called at times is who at clergyman, who Protestant clergyman,

struction sites plagued by mysterious accidents and and other projects projects plagued by

that that have have run into into problems problems rumored to to be be caused by by the the violaviolation tion of of ancient taboos or the the curses of of some kahuna. Kawika wanted Akaka to to perform perform aa special special Hawaiian Christian ritual to to of the all the cut cut out out all the evil evil things things of the past past and and give give the the canoe and and those those clean slate directing directing it it aa clean slate for for the the voyage to to come. Kawika could could have suggested have suggested that that we engage aa kahuna to to turn the the curses

heaped back to heaped upon us back to those who had had uttered uttered them, them, a practice practice which, Polynesian belief, which, according according to to Polynesian belief, can kill kill those those who who initiated

the conciliatory man; he the curses. But But Kawika isis a conciliatory he preferred preferred the the to our side. way of to bring Christian way of trying trying to bring detractors over to side. On December 15 Kawika brought On 15 Kawika brought Reverend Akaka to to the the canoe for for the the ritual. Kawika, Kimo, Kimo, Tommy, Herb Kane and ritual. Kawika, Tommy, IHerb and I, I,

plus aa number number of plus of others prominent in in the the project, project, stood with with Akaka on Hokule‘a’s Hokule'a’s stripped-down stripped-down deck. deck. Akaka first first lauded the the project and the people people of project and spoke spoke of of its its importance to to the of Hawaii. Then Then he acknowledged he acknowledged that that tensions existed both both within and and without the His answer to the project. project. His to them was aa long long series of of prayers, followed by by aa plea for brotherly to prevail. plea for brotherly love love to prevail. “This project and “This project and this this craft,” craft,” he he said, said, “is “is like like a musical instrument whose purpose it harmony. Every it is is to to make make sweet harmony. Every one of of you is a string, an important string in the instrument. Every string you is a string, string in the Every string is different, but every string do you is different, but every string is is important. important. How How do vou get get sweet when you you have strings? The way is music when have many different strings? The only only way is if if you that tuner is you have have one tuner, tuner, and and that is God. God. And And the the tune from from God to everyone II take take from the Bible. He aloha God to from the Bible. He aloha kekahi ii kekahi, kekahi, love when you love one another. Love Love one another, another, because when you love love one

you help help each each other.” another you Kawika was especially buoyed by especially buoyed by Akaka’s words. In In answer to to my my query query as to those critics who to whether or not not those who were not not present present would heed heed Akaka’s advice, advice, Kawika said, said, “We “We don’t don’t have have to to worry worry

will get message.” about about these these people people anymore. They They will get the the message.”

Mau Mau Despite Despite the the appointment of of Kawika, Kawika, and and Reverend Akaka’s blessing, the ranks the dubious were growing. blessing, the ranks of of the growing. Here we were

trying fix up trying toto fix up the the canoe after after its its swamping during during our only only significant significant windward trial, trial, yet yet we still still were sticking sticking to to our claim claim that that early early next year year we would sail sail the the canoe to to Tahiti Tahiti and and back— and and navigate navigate it it without instruments. Since the inception of the of the the project project we had had been been working working with with David Lewis, aa New Zealand physician physician and and yachtsman yachtsman who is is the the foremost authority authority on Polynesian Polynesian navigation. II had had first first heard of of Lewis in in 1965 when I1 was building building Nalehia and and he he was sailing his sailing his catamaran from from Tahiti Tahiti to to New Zealand, navigating it it Polynesian-style without instruments. A A few few years years later later we were colleagues colleagues at at the the Australian Australian National National University, University, where where he he had had managed win aa most unusual fellowship managed to to win fellowship that that allowed him him to to sail the Pacific in of islanders who who might sail about the in search search of might still still know the old ways of navigating. the old ways of navigating. 59 59

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HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way to to Tahiti The

find one traditional Polynesian Lewis did delight, Lewis did find his delight, To his To his own canoe sailed his his seventies who in his still sailed who still navigator, navigator, aa man in But the from to island island without instruments. But the navigator navigator was island to from island

not from Polynesia changes not from Polynesia proper, where dislocating dislocating economic changes and the the had led and the development of of modern transport transport systems systems had led to to the sailing canoes and disappearance of of interisland sailing and the the old old ways of of He was from navigating. He from aa Polynesian Polynesian outlier, outlier, aa small small atoll atoll located this of the great triangle. west ocean the in well to Melanesia in well to the of the great triangle. In In this and quiet quiet backwater ofof the the Pacific, Pacific, both both ocean-sailing canoes and had survived—although just noninstrument navigation navigation had just barely— barely— aged navigator. navigator. in of the the aged in the the person of After Lewis returned returned to letter from After to Australia he he received aa letter from his with the his friend friend with the curious message, “Now II am alive, alive, but but you you will will meet me one day day or not?” not?” Later that year Later that year Lewis Lewis learned what what was behind the the old old navigator had bade bade formal the message. One One day day the navigator had farewell sail in his canoe, farewell of of his his fellow fellow islanders and and then then set set sail in his

purposefully never toto return again. again. “An “An era of of Polynesian voyaging his passing,” this ing has has closed with with his passing,” was how how Lewis eulogized eulogized this last the Polynesian navigators. navigators. last of of the When When we recruited Lewis to to organize organize the the navigation navigation part part of of the he told told of his friend’s suicide at said that the voyage, he of his at sea and and said that he he

saw no possibility finding another Polynesian navigator for the possibility of of finding navigator for the voyage. A On aa few A Micronesian, yes. yes. On few isolated atolls atolls of of Micronesia, in the Pacific north north of located in the western Pacific of New Guinea, Guinea, there there still still survives aa vigorous vigorous system involving deep-sea system of of ocean voyaging voyaging involving deep-sea outrigger of navigation navigation much outrigger canoes and and aa noninstrument system system of much

like had like that that which Polynesians Polynesians once employed. employed. In In 1968 1968 Lewis Lewis had

sailed to to Puluwat (Poo-loo-wat) atoll atoll and and recruited aa traditional Micronesian navigator guide his yacht to to the navigator to to guide his yacht the Marianas Islands, Islands,

some 500 miles to and back. Although Although no one had 500 miles to the the north, north, and had made the trip since the the trip the turn of of the the century, century, when when German colonial administrators had had forbidden distant voyaging, voyaging, the the sailing sailing direcdirections, winds, currents and tions, the the the winds, to follow had and the stars to had all all been been preserved in preserved in oral round trip oral traditions. The was completed The round without trip was completed without magnificent demonstration of incident. It It was aa magnificent of the the worth of of

noninstrument navigation, but also piqued piqued the but itit also the navigators from from the adjacent atoll of of Satawal (Sah-tah-wall) (Sah-tah-wall).. the adjacent atoll

Mau

61 61

Navigators inin Micronesia are especially especially prideful. prideful. Theirs is is a skill gained through years of rigorous training in small outrigger skill gained through years of rigorous training in small outrigger canoes under the few who the night night skies, skies, and and there there are few who ever become known as master navigators. Great rivalry exists between navigaGreat rivalry navigators from from the the same island, island, more so among navigators navigators from from different islands. The could not allow The Satawal men could allow their their rivals rivals from from Puluwat to sailing canoe to get get the the upper hand. So So several of of them took aa sailing and, of navigation, and, using using the the old old style style of navigation, duplicated the the trip trip to to the the Marianas and back. Then the trip and back. Then a group from from Puluwat did did the trip by by canoe. canoe., II had about this had learned about this revival of of long-distance voyaging through correspondence with Mike McCoy, through with Mike McCoy, a Peace Corps Corps volunteer the subject teer stationed on Satawal who who wrote an article on the subject for for aa book and voyaging. book II was editing editing on Pacific Island navigation navigation and voyaging. Mike had of aa famous Mike had married the the niece of famous Satawal navigator, navigator, an intriguing man whom II had intriguing had met met several years years previous. previous. When When we started working working on the the project project the the Satawal navigator was our immediate choice, choice, for he combined two essential virtues: skill for he skill in in noninstrument navigation and an ability to work across cultural navigation and ability to work

boundaries rare among his his navigator navigator colleagues. colleagues. Pius Pius Piailug Piailug (Pee-us (Pee-us Pee-eye-luke) was his his official name, alalthough though everyone inin Hawaii soon fell fell to to calling calling him him Mau, Mau, his his more

easily easily pronounceable nickname. The The plan plan was to to bring bring Mau Mau to to Hawaii twice, when we were just twice, once when just finishing finishing the the canoe and and trying to figure trying to figure out out how how to to sail sail it, it, and and then then aa year year later for for the the voyage itself. The first trip was no less essential than the second. itself. The first trip less than the Mau then in early forties. He had been sailing canoes Mau was then in his his early He had been sailing small child, he was an expert since he he was aa small child, he expert canoe builder and and he had he had aa reputation for for coolness under dangerous dangerous conditions that that had allowed him him to had to survive several hurricanes at at sea. We We needed the the help help of of aa man like like that that to to learn how how best best to to sail sail Hokule‘a, Hokule’a, and and he in in turn needed he needed to to familiarize himself with with the the canoe, with with us and the navigation task task before him, and the him. What aa task task it it was! was! Navigate Navigate five or six aa strange strange canoe over aa route five six times longer longer than than any any crossing crossing he he had had ever made that that took took him him into into strange strange waters and and unfamiliar Southern Hemisphere skies. Hemisphere skies. A few months before the A few the launching, launching, as II was arranging arranging for for

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HOKULE‘A:

The Way to Tahiti Tahiti The Way to

did not not surprise. He He did by surprise. Kane caught caught me by trip, Herb first trip, Herb Kane Mau’ first Mau’s voyage. the actual actual voyage. before the until just just before to Hawaii until to come to want Mau Mau to to learn to to learn want to We We ourselves. it do to it do want to Hawaiians “We “We later later to Hawaii to Mau let come Then let Mau handle handle Hokule‘a on our own. Then

his how Kane phrased phrased his how to navigate,” was how learn how to navigate,” to help us learn to help argument. argument.

II was

flabbergasted flabbergasted

that that Kane’s Kane's

desire desire to to Hawaiianize

the the

project project would go go so far far so soon. II knew that that the the boatbuilders few young finish the young Hawaiians, to finish then rushing then rushing to the canoe, including including aa few wanted Mau and help with vital vital tasks, to come out Mau to out and help them them with tasks, and and that that the crew were some other other Hawaiians interested in in trying trying out out for for the intrigued intrigued that that an island island canoe master—not aa yachtsman yachtsman or aa modern catamaran sailor—would sailor—would be be their their teacher. II persisted persisted till till had won Kane’s Kane's begrudging II had acceptance. begrudging We obtained aa special special grant from Micronesia to for Mau’s We grant from to pay pay for Mau’s air fare fare and his stay stay in his visit not burden air and his in Hawaii so that that his visit would not our treasury. After After the delays of get someone the inevitable delays of trying trying to to get from from an isolated Micronesian atoll atoll to to Hawaii, Mau arrived coincidentally the launching. Although he cidentally on the the day day ofof the launching. Although he did did not

the ritual, ritual, within a week he participate in in the he had had assumed aa key key role inin the project. ItIt was he of setting setting the the role the project. he who who had had the the knack of sails at the best possible possible angle, and itit was he he who could show show us us sails at the best angle, and who could tried-and-true techniques and how to the tried-and-true lashing lashing techniques and how to work work wood wood the island way way with adze as opposed opposed to the saws, saws, planes planes and and chisels with an adze to the we had had been using. been using. For example, example, when when the first set booms for the For the first set of of laminated booms for the sails flimsy and the stress of of the wind sails proved proved too too flimsy and snapped snapped under under the the wind and our inexpert inexpert sail sail handling, only person who and handling, Mau Mau was the the only who really knew knew how how to really to make make more serviceable replacements. He He took took of young young Hawaiians into hills and long, aa crew of into the the hills and selected long, just the right curve. Then, Then, under aa shady slender tree limbs with with just the right shady tree by the water’s edge, he used his adze like a virtuoso, shaping tree by the edge, he used his adze like a virtuoso, shaping the limbs the to just limbs to just the the right right dimensions and and making making lengthy, lengthy, perfectly fitting fitting scarf perfectly scarf joints that three joints so that three of limbs could of the the limbs could be be joined together together to joined make aa single to make boom. single long long boom. Then, using some Then, using specially made made coconut sennit he specially he had had brought brought with with him him from from his his island, island, Mau lashed lashed the the pieces pieces together together to to form form aa set set of yet of strong strong yet light booms. booms. light

Mau

Maus Mau’s beachside worksite soon became

63 63

aa popular popular gathering gathering

place and others who place for for crew candidates and who wanted to to watch this this canoe master at at work. His His round, round, compact physique, physique, his his skin skin burned dark dark brown from from years years of of sailing sailing under the the tropical tropical sun, made him the Hawaiians. made him stand stand out among among the the spectators, even the They taller and and heavier than They were mostly mostly much much taller than Mau and, and, because of of racial admixture or a more indoor lifestyle, lifestyle, were much much paler. paler. Mau worked with a quiet intensity, although he had a ready Mau worked with a quiet although he had ready smile smile and seemingly humble demeanor that and aa seemingly that charmed everyone. He soon won aa cult He cult following following among among some of of the the young young Hawaiian crewmen, including including Kimo Hugho, Hugho, who who seemed especially fascinated with with this cially this man from another island—really another age—who had so much to age—who had to teach teach modern Hawaiians. By By the the time

to leave, Mau had had to leave, just just a few few weeks before the the departure departure for for Maui inaugurating the the interisland cruise, II felt felt confident that that some key key Hawaiians admired Mau Mau and and appreciated the the chance to to work work with with him. him. Mau’s Mau’s opinion opinion of of the the Hawaiians as sailors sailors was not not very very reassuring, however. He He was worried about about the the lack lack of of sailing sailing skill deep-sea experience of those who skill and and deep-sea of some of of those who had had been sailing They were, in sailing aboard Hokule‘a. Hokule'a. They in aa word, word, watermen. Few had had sailed before, before, and and none had had made any any extensive ocean crossings. crossings. ' Today's surfing, but Today’s Hawaiians are world renowned for for their their surfing, but few sail. In few of of them them ever sail. In Hawaii yachting yachting is is mostly mostly a haole haole

pastime, too popular among too expensive for for most Hawaiians and and not popular those who can afford to purchase yachts. those few few Hawaiians who to purchase yachts. If If Hawaiians do go to typically go do go to sea, they they typically go just just offshore in in an outboard skiff skiff to to spend spend the the day day fishing fishing for for their their table. table. It It was not always As late late as the of the always this this way. way. As the middle of the last last century century as being Hawaiians were recognized recognized as being expert expert deep-water sailors— so expert that New England captains would sail expert that England sea captains sail out out to to the the - Pacific with with aa minimum number of of hands, hands, and and then then head head straight straight for hire on Hawaiians to for Hawaii where they they would would hire to serve for for the the duration of their long trading cruises. These sea of their long whaling whaling and and trading captains captains found found that that Hawaiians were natural natural seamen, that that they they

could do things such do things such as swim in in the the open open ocean and and surf surf a boat boat to to shore that sailors could not, shore that American sailors not, and and that that they they could could eat eat and were intensely intensely easily, and hardships easily, anything, endure hardships almost almost anything,

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HOKULE‘A: BOKULE‘A:

The Way to Tahiti Tahiti The Way to

happened much has and much loyal. But that was over 100 years ago, has happened ago, and 100 years But that loyal. since to alienate Hawaiians from from the life. sailing life. the sailing since to of the young Hawaiian crew the young realized the the dilemma of Mau Mau rcalized the of the how to some of recapture some to recapture sail, to to sail, learn how to learn candidates: wanting wanting to glory in seamanlacking in woefully lacking yet woefully seafaring ancestors, yet their seafaring of their glory of ship for left for he left when he misgivings, when had misgivings, he had Although he discipline. Although and discipline. ship and home he that he to he would back to be back would be and assured us that game and still game he was still home voyage. long navigate on her Hokule‘a her long navigate Hokule'a There was one major to bringing Mau back. back. Hawaii bringing Mau major obstacle to for Micronesians and who come Pacific Islanders who other Pacific and other isis a a mecca for

to study or just just to look around and good—to for good—to staying for up staying end up and end to look to study the of immigration officials. The latter had given Mau had given The latter the frustration of aa hard his arrival in first stay. did It did stay. It his first for his in Honolulu for upon his time upon hard time not matter that that we were not project, that that ours was aa Bicentennial project, paying wage, and They accused he was a volunteer. They that he and that paying Mau a wage,

him of doing of trying to to of trying in so doing and in work, and get work, to get coming toto Hawaii to of coming him take aa job did finally did they finally Although they from an American citizen. Although away from job away take heed pleas and they permit, they visitor'’s permit, gave Mau a temporary visitor’s and gave my pleas heed my warned me that leniently if he tried tried if he be treated so leniently not be he would not that he to come back back to to Hawaii. to

The the East-West Center, problem involved the this problem of this way out of The way a federal institution that and Pacific Islanders and Asians, Pacific brings Asians, that brings Americans to Hawaii for cultural and technical exchange proexchange proand for to grams. Since 1971 II had held aa joint the joint appointment between the had held Since 1971 try to try the time to and II decided now was the University, and the University, and the Center and

their aid bring Mau to bring idea was to My idea project. My the canoe project. for the aid for get their toto get to fare, air fare, him air give him that would give fellowship; that to Hawaii on aa Center fellowship; a monthly and more importantly a special that would special visa that stipend, and monthly stipend, enable him the with the far with get far did not get first II did At first in Hawaii. At stay in to stay him to Center bureaucracy, even though be a this would be that this argued that though II argued rare chance to exchange of technical exchange usual direction of the usual to reverse the programs in to the United States to from the flows from aid flows in which technical aid Pacific Island In this be this case aa Pacific Islander would be Island countries. In the technical technical expert, expert, and the and the the Americans would be be the the recipients recipients of the foreign aid. foreign aid. of the Then, Then, after after several months of of negotiations, II finally finally succeeded in in arranging for for aa most unusual exchange exchange program involving involving aa

Mau

fellowship for for Mau—and fellowship

65 65

also Lewis, a also fellowships fellowships for for David Lewis,

Tahitian sailor sailor as yet yet to to be be selected, and and (with (with the the aid aid of of extra funds from and Kimo Hugho, Hugho, funds from our California backer) backer) Herb Kane and so that that New Zealand, Tahiti Tahiti and and Hawaii were represented along along with with Micronesia.

Two men, heads heads of of separate institutes within

the Center, primarily responsible the Center, were primarily respousible for for approving the the proprogram: a Filipino and a British British educator. gram: Filipino economist and educator, Unlike the the continentally bred bred American officials of of the had continentally the Center whom II had initially and initially and unsuccessfully petitioned, petitioned, both both these these men were to the islanders and and thus thus naturally natur ally sensitized to the importance of of ocean voyaging. voya gm g

Christmas

morning morning

1975. Only Only three three months 1975.

remained

till till

departure, and Piailug. He and still still no Mau Piailug. He needed to to start working working with Lewis, who had already job was to to with David David Lewis, who had already arrived. Lewis’s job familiarize Mau with the the route to to and and from from Tahiti and with the the Mau with and with winds, along the the way. way. We We also also needed Mau to to winds, currents and and stars along help relash the the canoe, make make new booms and and take take care of of many help us us relash jobs that that needed his skills. It had taken time to to other jobs his unique unique skills. It had process Mau’s fellowship fellowship and and his his travel papers, and and then then to to get get him island to to the him from from his his island the district headquarters, from from where he he

could start the the plane could plane journey journey to to Hawaii. The The last last we had had heard he was there, for space on the he there, waiting waiting for the first first airplane. airplane. But that that was two weeks weeks ago, ago, and and we had had received no message since.

Then the the phone rang while II was reading the newspaper Then phone rang reading the to my elder elder son. Unlike that that other other morning call call three three to my this one carried a happy The Micronesian months earlier, earlier, this happy message. The comics

college student on the the other other end end of of the had Mau Mau in in tow; tow; college the line line had they flown in they had had just just flown in from from Micronesia. Micronesia.

Grumbling Grumbling and and Dissension The The appointment of of Kawika and and the the arrival of of Mau gave gave the the project great boost. We looked forward to project aa great to the the Bicentennial year year of 1976, 1976, the of the year year of of the the voyage, with with great great anticipation. Yet, Yet, once work work resumed on the the canoe after after the the holidays, holidays, our troubles returned, grew grew and then multiplied. returned, and then It It was not too many weeks before an exasperated Kawika was saying, “Too much namunamu! Too saying, “Too much Too much much hukihuki!” Both Both are pithy Hawaiian terms formed formed by by duplicating pithy duplicating shorter, shorter, more inin-

nocent words. Namu (nah-moo) (nah-moo) alone just just means to to mutter; said said twice itit means to to grumble grumble openly. openly. Huki (hoo-kee) means to to pull; pull; duplicating it it as “pull-pull” “pull-pull” graphically describes the the act of of causing causing dissension. Earlier II had had been warned by by Hawaiians that that grumbling grumbling and and “pull-pull” “pull-pull” were ills ills characteristic of of Hawaiian organizations. II was at at first first dubious; dubious; my my social social science training training 66 66

Grumbling Grumbling

and and Dissension

67 67

had wary of such stereotypes. However, by had taught taught me to to be be wary of such by now II was willing willing to to accept accept that that there there might might be be some folk folk wisdom in in this this and and other other negative negative sayings sayings Hawaiians have have about the the difficulty difficulty they they experience working working together. together. Grumbling Grumbling and and dissension were growing within the growing within the ranks of of the the Voyaging Voyaging Society, Society, although although much much was fueled by by outside pressures. The The most innocuous of of these these came in in the the form form of of unsolicited advice about about all all the the things things we were doing doing wrong, including including how how of canoe taboos. we were breaking a number of “You “You cannot have have anything anvthing yellow yellow or black black on the the canoe. Those are taboo taboo colors.” “No women. It It was taboo in in the the old old days days for for women to to sail sail on “No double-canoes.” “You cannot take the trip. you will “You take bananas on the trip. If If you you do do you will not catch any any fish.” fish.” catch who claimed that How those who that black and and yellow yellow colors, colors, and and women, were taboo on double-canoes could could reconcile their their propronouncements with with the the fact fact that that canoes were traditionally stained black black and and yellow, vellow, and and that that at at least least one double-canoe double-canoc that that reached Hawaii Hawaii must have have had had women aboard, aboard, was aa mystery. Only Only the the taboo on bananas seemed to to have taboo have an actual basis. Modern Hawaiian fishermen do do believe that that they they will will catch catch no fish fish if it they they carry bananas on their their boats. boats. The only trouble with with following following that that carry The only taboo was that that it it would entail entail throwing throwing out the the hundreds of of

pounds of pounds of dried bananas that that volunteers had had already already prepared prepared as aa primary the voyage! voyage! Many people did primary staple staple on the Many people did take take these seriously, and required some hard taboos seriously, and it it required hard talking talking to to save the the bananas, being banned from from the the canoe, bananas, keep keep the the women from from being and yellow life of foul and rescue all all the the yellow life rings rings and and yellow yellow suits suits of foul weather

gear had already already been gear that that had been purchased. Other Other talk talk was not not so easy easy to to dismiss. Warnings Warnings that that haoles should sail on Hokule‘a continued to should not sail to circulate. AA few few crewmen took toto bragging, out to took bragging, “When we get get out to sea we're were going going to to throw

the haoles overboard.” They They may the may have been joking—partly—but Kimo was not not when started once again when he he started again to to complain about threats. This time he This time he said said someone was talking talking about blowing blowing up up

the with the the lodged a complaint with request II lodged At Kimo’s request the canoe. At

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HOKULE‘A:

The Way toto Tahiti Tahiti The Way

old Hawaiian detective toto assigned an experienced old who assigned police, police, who who all the him about all explained to investigate. After After II explained to him the kahunas who that a and more recent evidence that giving us trouble, been giving had trouble, and had been on the their will exert their to exert trying to petty hoodlums were trying of petty number of the will on all the telling me about all and started telling project, the detective chuckled and project, the the local criminals. and local been threatened by had been times he by kahunas and he had later he the matter. Some weeks later look into the to look promise to he did But he did promise But he danger. there was no immediate danger. that there informed me that psychojust Hawaiian psychois just talk is that talk “all that he said, worry,” he “Don’t worry,” “Don't said, “all not His words were not that.” His doing that.” always doing Theyre always logical warfare. They're logical had tracked he had that he he assured me that though he totally comforting, even though totally

stay away to stay them to and warned them the people of the down some of people involved and from the canoe. from the act the act got into the the kahunas got of the the ranks of from the arch critic from Our arch Our nature, wanted his conciliatory nature, to his again this time. Kawika, Kawika, true to at this again at to start and to the canoe and against the talk against to get get this his talk all his stop all to stop this man to to his in his old kahuna in the old to see the He went out to project. He the project. supporting the supporting rural rural retreat. help to help you to want you We want us. We against us. talking against to stop you to want you “We want “We stop talking Tahiti,” to Tahiti,” trip to the trip for the ready for Hokule'a ready get Hokule‘a to get with us to us, to work with us, to was Kawika’s entreaty for for cooperation. the against the “T am not against “You the kahuna. “I replied the wrong,” replied “You are wrong,’ dirty. Much is dirty. the canoe is But the canoe. II want to to Tahiti. But go to it go to see it

for weeks. Then to pray for have to it clean. II have to make it be done to to be has to has there must be .” needed. . . .” pigs are needed... Forty black pigs feast. Forty big feast. be aa big with pleased with this meeting pleased buoyant Kawika came back from this AA buoyant start and start canoe and the canoe cursing the stop cursing the kahuna would stop that the idea that the idea the helping from former for 1I knew from Kawika, for asked Kawika, helping us. “How much?” II asked followers of for fees for healthy fees charged rather healthy he charged that he this kahuna that of this suggested idea, so II suggested had no idea, spiritual interventions. Kawika had his spiritual his

that taped. be taped. his prayers could be high as $500—if his go as high that we could go fee on ancient consulting fee be called a consulting could be the payment could way the That way That an from an funds from the funds get the could get we could and we practices, and religious practices, Hawaiian religious Hawaiian educational grant. grant. The again. the kahuna again. to see the following week Kawika went out to The following cheery. at all he was not at he returned he all cheery. When he

“You know what that forcing aa said, forcing told me?” Kawika said, guy told that guy

Grumbling Grumbling

and Dissension and

69 69

laugh. “He how he laugh. “He went on and and on about about how he was already already praying praying for for us, us, about about how how when he he was finished finished the the canoe and and everything everything would be and about be all all right, right, and about the the forty forty black black pigs pigs and and all all the the food food needed for for the the feast. feast. Then he he said said it it would only only cost us $150,000!” The whole affair The affair might might have have been been funny funny but but for for the the trouble this man’s fulminations had had already this man’s already caused and, and, from from all all indications, would continue to tions, would to cause. Kawika’s announcement at at the the canoe about the the kahuna’s extortionate demands was greeted greeted with with glum glum silence, silence, and and more than than aa few few crew candidates looked annoyed. It was as as if thought the noyed. It if they thev thought the story story had had been been manufactured to to discredit someone they they believed in. in. The project sick. Harping Harping critics, critics, muttering kahunas and and The project was sick. devious threateners had had all all contributed to to the the malaise, but but they they fed on basic basic ills fed ills imbedded within our organization. First and First and foremost was the the split split between Hawaiians and and haoles, haoles, aa debilitating debilitating division that that had had aa way way of of making making simple simple tortuously complicated. matters tortuously complicated. Most of of all all it it greatly greatly weakened my my ability ability to to act act decisively decisively on matters dealing dealing with with Hawaiians, and poisoned the the possibility possibility of and it it poisoned of aa rational crew selection.

That task task should have The main people That have been been easy. easy. The people going going had had already already been been picked: picked: Kawika as as captain; captain; aa part-Hawaiian part-Hawaiian profesprofessional sional seaman named David David Lyman Lyman as Kawika’s first first mate; Mau Piailug as navigator navigator and Piailug as and David Lewis as his his assistant; aa veteran

Tahitian sailor sailor named Rodo Williams to to be be our pilot pilot in in his his home waters; Kimo Hugho, Hugho, Herb Herb Kane, Kane, Tommy Tommy Holmes and and myself. myself. All we really really All But crew But project and project and Hawaiianize

needed were aa selection had had the the one most the project. In In the project.

few extra hands. few been been the the least least rational part part of of the the embroiled with the pressures to with the to those first enthusiastic days of planthose first days of plan-

ning, ning, we had had made the the mistake of of proclaiming that that the the canoe sail with with twenty-four men and (plus pigs, pigs, dogs dogs and and would sail and women (plus chickens) to simulate the chickens) to the crowded conditions of of an ancient migratory voyage. Then came Kane’s campaign campaign around the the islands advertising for Hawaiian advertising for

watermen

to crew the the canoe for for the the to

All this this resulted in in aa large large pool pool of of expectant Hawaiian voyage. All candidates, many of of whom had had their their champions among members of of the the Voyaging Voyaging Society’s Society’s governing governing board. By By now Kane was was

70 70

HOKULE‘A:

The Tahiti The Way Way to to Tahiti

personal of personal legacy of left aa legacy had left he had but he picture, but the picture, of the out of largely out largely that to honor. Then Kimo maneuvered so that bound to felt bound choices we felt crewmen. Hawaiian remaining remaining the the selecting selecting of of charge took charge he took he composed list composed lengthy list up aa lengthy he drew up decliberation he After much deliberation After

mostly of his favorites. Tommy, mostly of his Tommy, who who was supposed supposed to to assist Kimo in in crew selection, had had reservations about about many on the the list, list, but but in in d the end it without making making any he rubber-stampe it end he the any cuts. My greatest error at the beginning My greatest at the beginning of of the the project project had had been been to to delegate crew selection and and to to allow allow it it to to be be based based on on waterman delegate ability. Now II compounded compounded that by still still hanging hanging back and ability. that error by back and not insisting criteria based on sailing and general insisting that that strict criteria sailing skills skills and general character applied to to weed the character be be applied weed out unsuitable unsuitable candidates. All All the anti-haole talk its effect, effect, and and II passed buck to talk had had its passed the the buck to Kawika. After aa series of cruises, he After of shakedown cruises, he was to to make the the final final selection from from aa too-large too-large pool pool of of twenty-six twenty-six candidates. Had we been been able able to to take take the Had the candidates out out as planned planned for for

aa few few tough tough shakedown cruises (we of going going out (we had had talked talked of of out of sight of of land land for for up to five five days sight up to days at at aa crack), crack), weak weak candidates have voluntarily dropped out and would have voluntarily dropped and any any other other unsuitable been easily easily selected out. But the the canoce canoe was not ones could have have been out. But yet and during yet ready, ready, and during the the successive weeks weeks the the candidates asscmbled sembled at at the the canoe (most (most just just on weekends, although although some

jobs came every day) day) to sand, paint paint and and carry carry out other without jobs to sand, other chores rather than sail. sail. These These work did weed weed out aa few chores rather than work sessions did few candidates who who decided the the trip trip was not worth it, it, but not worth but most stuck itit out out and began to form aa cohesive group group tightly tightly identified stuck and began to form with with the the canoe. ’, took this this as as aa good good sign sign until until I1 realized that that under II took under Kimo’s tutelage the the candidates were now calling calling themselves “the “the crew.” crew.” tutelage And because of of their their previous previous few few sails on Hokule‘a, And sails on Hokule'a, plus plus their their work contributions now, they they were beginning beginning to to claim claim that that they they work knew Kawika, myself myself or any of the knew more about about the the canoe than than Kawika, any of the others others of of us us they they derisively derisively called called the Then, before before the “leaders.” Then, Kawika and and TI fully fully realized what what was happening, happening, Kimo and and Tommy Tommy worked worked out out aa deal deal whereby whereby all all the the candidates would would be be able to able to sail sail on Hokule‘a, Hokule'a, half half on the the trip trip to to Tahiti and and half half on the the

Grumbling Grumbling

and and Dissension

Wl 71

should never have have acquiesced. acquiesced. But, But, rather rather return to to Hawaii. II should than gave in. than face face aa fight, fight, II gave in. My the project project was fast fast eroding. eroding. It It was not My influence over the just and his his crew favorites, the outside pressures, that that just Kimo Kimo and favorites, or the were draining also having problems with with some of of my draining me. II was also having problems my fellow board the fellow board members, whose servant IT was according according to to the Voyaging Society Society bylaws. Voyaging bylaws. “You can't by committee,” warned aa veteran “You can't build build aa canoe by yachtsman at the the beginning of the project. We had proved him yachtsman at beginning of the project. had proved him

wrong. No of us us alone alone could have launched launched Hokule'a; wrong. No one one of could have Hokule‘a; certainly the magnitude magnitude of certainly not not a whole project project the of ours. Kane, Kane, Tommy and II had Tommy and had worked well well together together promoting the the project project and getting the canoe built, built, just just as the the other other members of and getting the of the the board of of directors were essential to to helping helping project. But managing the the fledgling fledgling project. But our strength strength disady antage as problems of divided authority authority aa disadvantage problems of Since the swamping II had had been working Since the working on

raise funds

and and now turned into to the fore. came to the fore. the the project project from from

dawn till till late late into into the the night—except when II had had to to teach at the the dawn teach at at the the East-West Center. From University or attend attend meetings meetings at early in in the the project, project, authority authority over the the various aspects the early aspects of of the project been delegated delegated to to separate each chaired project had had been separate committees each by aa board only the by board member. II chaired only the research committee, and and to coordinate the the other other committees in in order keep everyII tried tried to order to to keep thing on schedule. At At best this meant touching base from from time to to thing best this touching base time with the committee chairmen. At At worst, worst, when the work time with the the work lagged, itit meant that that II had had to to prod the chairman or or take take over the the lagged, prod the

work myself. myself. Some of of the sparc the committee heads who could not spare the time to to keep keep the flowing welcomed intervention. Others the the work flowing did guarding their and resenting even the the did not, not, jealously jealously guarding their territory territory and

gentlest gentlest suggestion. Then II contracted viral bed for for viral pneumonia, pneumonia, which put put me in in bed weeks. My My absence from dockside allowed those those almost two weeks. and other board members committee chairmen and other Voyaging Voyaging Society Society board who about strict control over canoe design who had had always always chafed about design to to

72 72

HOKULE‘A:

Tahiti to Tahiti Way to The Way The

of got out of finally got Hokule'a. When I1 finally at “improving” Hokule‘a. hand at their hand try their try up had been hoisted up then had by then the canoe—which by and down toto the bed bed and

the crossbeams—I relash the and relash hulls and the hulls paint the clean, paint to clean, dock to the dock on the his crewand his and boatbuilder the the had directed they had that they discovered that the to make the hull to each hull fins on each keel fins deep keel to install deep helpers to men helpers canoe sail sail better to to windward.

Keel fins

lashing styles Micronesian and and Hawaiian lashing styles

“We “We can’t can’t have have haole haole keel keel fins fins on aa Polynesian Polynesian canoe.” around here! here! II quit!” quit!” “There are too damned many bosses around That was the gist of of my my conversation with with the That the gist the boatbuilder. keel fins fins wrecked the the II sympathized with with his his position, but but the the keel experimental design and and had of the the crew wanted the the experimental design had to to go. go. Most of keel to stay. stay. All of leeway keel fins fins to All the the talk talk of leeway and and the the problem problem of of making making enough easting easting against seize on the the keel keel enough against the the trades made them seize fins as a necessary addition that would allow them to reach fins a that allow them to reach Tahiti. The did not use keel The argument that that ancient Polynesians Polynesians did keel fins fins on their their canoes failed entirely entirely to to sway sway them. Some even took took it as “Our ancestors must have have had keel fins. fins. They They it as an insult: “Our had keel weren weren’t tdumb!” The keel keel fins fins came off, but one thing led to to another. Herb The off, but thing led

Kane, who had had taken a leave of of absence from from the the project project after after the the Kane, swamping to get back back to to his his own work, work, now made aa rare appearswamping to get

the canoe. When he he spied spied the the way the the crew, under Mau’s ance at at the capable direction, was relashing relashing the capable the crossbeams to to the the hulls, hulls, Kane strenuously Kane strenuously objected. objected. Instead of of following following the the Hawaiian Hawaiian

Grumbling

and Dissension and

73 73

method of the lashings lashings each each time they they go go around the the of crossing crossing the crossbeam, Mau was using the straight up-and-down Micronesian Mau using the straight method. Kane Kane seized upon upon this this difference, difference, declared the Micronemethod. the Micronesian unsafe and sian method unsafe and demanded aa meeting meeting of of the the canoe canoc committee to decide the issue. Although I had prevailed in to the Although I had prevailed in the the previous dispute dispute over the the keel keel fins, fins, IT lost lost on this this detail. The The majority with Kane. majority sided with Mau the change Mau plainly plainly thought thought the change was crazy, not to to mention personally insulting, but he went along with it anyway. Not so personally insulting, but he along with it the after Kawika and the crew. Even Even atter and II effected aa compromise whereby whereby most of lashings could remain in of Mau’s lashings in place, place, they they kept kept going going on and on about how much work they had already put and about how work they had already put into into the the lashings and would take take to change them. lashings and about how how much more itit would to change

They had had aa point, point, but but they they tipped tipped their hand by They by carrying it it too far. It that the the real real issue was control of the far. It was now apparent that of the of those canoe. Kimo and and his his followers, aa majority majority of those crewmen regularly working delighted to to use this this lashing regularly working on the the canoe, were delighted lashing imbroglio and keel fin imbroglio and the the keel fin episode episode as evidence of of the the incompetence of the project’s and the need for for the the crew to to take take control. of the project’s leaders and the need

74 74

HOKULE‘A: : HOKULE‘A

to Tahiti Way to The Way Tahiti The

role was now play such such an important role having Kimo play The The error ofof having

but good crewman, but He might might have made a good the more apparent. He all the all for of purpose for strength of the strength skills nor the sailing skills the sailing had neither the he he had position was His position he found himself. His which he in which role in critical role that he he was had seen that than one malefactor had enviable; more than enviable; the project project bend the lean toto bend they could lean upon which which they point upon pressure point

the the

unthe the for for

his own game, publicly playing his also playing Yet Kimo was also their own ends. ends. Yet publicly their while the the crew did did all about how complaining about the the work while all the how the nothing, or just giving orders. sat around giving just sat did nothing, “leaders” did Kimo performed very well when Later, when the cameras. Later, well before the performed very the “leaders” in the National in the him castigating the some viewers saw him

Geographic film, if Kimo was not aa professional they wondered if film, they actor. They partly right. in television parts in bit parts plays bit right. Kimo plays They were partly films his plus his That, plus easily. That, pose easily. falls into aa pose who falls is aa man who and is films and good looks, perhaps explains explains why why looks, perhaps and good physique and weightlifter’s physique used Kimo had used who had Kane, who project. Kane, him for Herb Kane chose Herb chose him for the the project. Kimo as aa model, have looked at at him seeing eye, seeing with an artist’s eye, him with model, must have

Kimo as the ideal young Hawaiian to of the rebirth of symbolize the to symbolize the ideal Hawaiian seamanship. seamanship.

Following Kane’s lead, lead, the National Geographic film had film team had the National Following early key figure their to structure their figure around which to picked Kimo as aa key early picked film. They They would show of Hawaithe rebirth of show mainland audiences the film. ians through the Their of Kimo. Their the adventures of ians as Polynesian seamen through probing cameras and there, always there, thus always tape recorders were thus and tape probing boosting Kimo’s ego, the wider to the his case to to state his him to inviting him ego, inviting boosting audience. “IT Emmy,” the producer film producer Geographic film the National Geographic “I smell an Emmy,” Dale Bell was reported reported to previday several weeks previsaid one day have said to have Dale Bell ously. The The film public television; be shown nationwide on public film was toto be ously. his hope Emmy award. it would capture aa coveted Emmy that it hope was that his his remark. Now of his import of full import the full then realized the had not then II had II did. did. Herb Kane had the film makers toward the the film had earlier steered the Herb Kane cultural revival aspect aspect of point to point tried to project. Now when II tried the project. of the Bell toward the the central tasks Bell tasks of of sailing sailing and and noninstrument noninstrument naviganaviga-

tion tion that that he he was neglecting, he he acted bored and and patronizing. He He

apparently apparently saw the the heart heart of of the the project project to to be be the the Hawaiian effort to make it to make it their their own. To To Bell, Bell, the the arguments and and confrontations confrontations

Grumbling Grumbling

and Dissension and

1 75

for the ethnic revival and and conflict were the the raw material for the drama drama of of ethnic that bring far far more critical acclaim than that he he was betting betting would would bring than any straight chronicle of of the the voyage. any straight Bell acted acted more like like aa frustrated new-wave cinema director Bell than this documentary. his than the the producer producer of of this documentary. Unfortunately, too, too, his penchant penchant for for directing directing went beyond beyond loudly loudly ordering ordering his his team around telling to stand telling them them where to stand and and what what to to shoot. shoot. My My anthropologist colleagues who make documentaries strive to colleagues who to

record what happens, to happen. happens, not what what they they would like like to happen. Their Dale Bell cardinal rule rule is is to to avoid influencing influencing events. Dale Bell evidently evidently did not ideal. He did not share share totally totally in in that that ideal. He always always seemed to to be be trying trying

to this or that that scene he had in to get get people people toto pose pose for for this he had in mind. At At first first his his “documentary” approach approach had had seemed fairly fairly ininnocuous, as when had me sit when he he had sit before the the cameras tracing tracing our route on a map map or discussing discussing aa computer printout printout on canoe canoc performance with with aa student in in the the University University computer center, aa place had never been been before. But But as our problems problems grew, grew, so place II had did Bell’s did Bell’s excitement; he he appeared appeared to to relish relish the the conflict and and was not trying to to arrange confrontations in not above trying in dramatic settings— settings— as on the the ruins of of an ancient Hawaiian stone temple. temple. Complaints Complaints also also reached me that that Bell Bell was seeking seeking out Hawaiian radicals for for

interviews during he asked them provocative questions during which he about Hawaiian rights about rights and and the the project. project. In In addition, it it was reported reported that Bell Bell had don’t care if that had declared, “T“I don’t if the the canoe swamps fifty fifty miles out. II have my my story.” story.” When

II moved

to rein team, Bell to rein in in the the film film team, Bell and and his his two

bosses (one from the the National Geographic Geographic and (one from and the the other from WQED, the Public Broadcasting WOQED, the Broadcasting Service television station that that actually producing producing the the film) film) treated me to to a combination of of was actually

reproaches and and syrupy words of wounded reproaches of assurance. Of Of course they would not think think of of interfering in in the project, and and so on. II they the project, and was tempted tempted to to tell to was not totally totally assured and tell the the film film team to already inin too with the the National clear out. But But we were already too deep deep with Geographic and of adding and II did did not relish the the thought thought of adding to to our troubles by by taking taking on that that giant, giant.

10 10 Setting Sefting to fo Right Right An early departure was crucial. As An early April April departure As recorded in in Hawaiian traditions, the voyaging season opened then, after the opened then, after the the winter had subsided and the regular storms had and the regular trade trade wind wind pattern pattern was reestablished. Chances were

that the that the doldrums would be be only only

weakly developed in and that weakly in April, April, and that the the angle angle of of the the trade trade winds would be be most favorable then. In In addition, by by leaving leaving in in April April we would have have time time to to get get back back to to Hawaii before before the the onset of of the the late late summer storm season when hurricanes spawned spawned off off the the Mexican coast have a nasty habit of curving west—right across have a nasty habit of curving west—iight our returning returning track. _ track, We had to sail We had planned planned to sail to to Maui in in early early March and and set up up camp in a secluded cove from where we could take short training camp in a from could take short training sails, sails, and and then then wait there there for for the the first first fair fair winds of of April April to to sail sail for for Tahiti. Yet Yet all all through through March Hokule‘a Hokule'a remained high high and and dry dry 76 76

Setting to Right Right Setting to

% 77

on the that the the the wharf as the the work work dragged dragged on. The The realization that ideal April were fast ideal sailing sailing days days of of April fast approaching; the the continued bickering; bare concrete surface; surface; bickering; the the sun glaring glaring on the the wharf’s bare the the flies flies our garbage garbage attracted; the the roar of of the the big big jets jets taking taking off off from from the the nearby nearby airport; airport; all all combined to to torment us, us, to to make make us loathe each new day loathe each day the the canoe remained on land. land. The trouble, the vocal segment of the The trouble, the vocal segment of the crew now openly openly the claimed, lay lay with with Kawika and and the the haoles. Get Get rid rid of of them, them, let let the crew take take over the the canoe, and and all all will will be be well, well, was their their argument. That Kawika was pure That pure Hawaiian, that that he he spoke spoke Hawaiian fluently, fluently, and that he had and that he had grown up up in in aa traditional Hawaiian community, like so many counted for for little. little. These These crewmen, like many other young

part-Hawaiians

growing growing up up in in Honolulu

alienated from from their their

cultural roots, they had cultural roots, felt felt thev had to to proclaim proclaim their their Hawaiianness by by being play their game; being aggressively aggressively anti-haole. Kawika would would not play their game;

he side with he would not side with them them against against the the haoles in in the the project. project. In In the eyes of that made Kawika aa “coconut,” the the the eyes of his his detractors, detractors, that local term for for an Uncle local Uncle Tom, Tom, which isis explained explained as “brown on the the and white inside.” outside and The The

obvious

solution, solution,

that that of of firing firing those those

crewmen

who who

wanted to bitterly opposed opposed to take take over the the canoe, would have have been bitterly by many Society's by many Hawaiians, including including all all or most of of those those on the the Society’s of Directors. The The Hawaiian board board members were torn Board of between having proceed as planned, and their deep having the the project project proceed planned, and their deep sympathy for sympathy for the the rebellious crewmen. They They had had always always seemed had sprung from embarrassed that that the the project project had from an ethnically ethnically mixed, “elitist” group and not grassroots level level in in the mixed, group and not from from the the grassroots the

Hawaiian community. They to have have the They were desperate to the Hawaiian crewmen,

in their mind in their mind

the heart of the the project, in its the heart of project, share sharc in its

direction. These board members had theory to up their had aa social theory to back back up feelings. feelings.

In the ancient In the

days, days,

they they said, said, aa canoe

crew

was

organized along along family family lines with everyone sharing organized lines with sharing in in the the making making of decisions as well as the No one should be of well as the work. work. No be ordered around around ‘ohana was was catchword Their leader. Their other leader. any other by captain or any by aa captain

the old old term for for extended family by (‘oh-hah-nah), the family now used used by other and other protest groups and to protest apply to to apply young Hawaiians to many young

78 78

HOKULE‘A: HOKULE A:

The Way to Tahiti The Way to

they who would aggregations of of individuals who would like like to to believe that that they to supposed to We days. supposed were in We people days. the ancient like in acting people are acting like the as together sail to supposed the canoe; we were supposed to sail together ‘ohana of be the of the the ‘ohana be family with big happy one big happy family with love love and and sharing sharing as our guide. guide. Not Not only only was it it absurd to to propose an idealized family family organiorganization where survival at sea dictates a firm command and at firm and discipline, this modern theory theory of pline, but but this of the the ‘ohana misconstrued the the society. Relationships were anything nature of of ancient Hawaiian society. anything but egalitarian in days. Within the but in the the old old days. the extended family family a male ruled roles and senior male ruled and and other other roles and duties were assigned assigned according to age and the extended family according to age and sex lines. lines. Outside the family relationships were starkly starkly hierarchical. A A hereditary hereditary class class of of chiefs ruled over the with aa strict ruled the mass of of commoners with strict hand. hand. It that rigid rigid governing system It is is exactly exactly that system composed composed of of the the powerful chiefs, chiefs, their powerful their mana or supernatural supernatural power derived from from the gods, system of the gods, and and the the strict system of taboos that that regulated regulated chiefly chiefly all other other aspects of life, that commoner relations and and all of life, that was totally totally swept away away in the last leaving aa void swept in the last century, century, leaving void among among the the Hawaiians that that has has yet yet to to be be filled. filled. About all all that that remain are memories, some brilliant red-and-yellow feather cloaks and and other chiefly insignia away in chiefly insignia locked away in museums, and and aa recently recently restored

palace (the only genuine royal palace palace in in the palace (the only genuine royal the United States say say the the brochures ) built by the the last Hawaii's king. tourist brochures) built by last chief chief to to rule rule as Hawaii’s king. If anything, anything, today’s If today’s Hawaiians are archly archly distrustful of of authority authority and have problems uniting and have immense problems uniting behind leaders and and common goals. While While cynics cynics among them may say, say, “We want to goals. them may “We all all want to be be chiefs and none of us want to be Indians,” the cultural void chiefs and of to be the void is is genuine. That genuine. That is is what what the the advocates of of the the ‘ohana system would like to to fill like fill with with amorphous amorphous pseudo-family groups.

Part and and parcel parcel of of this this family family system is is a ritualized way way of of resolving conflict called ho‘oponopono (hoh-‘oh-poh-no-poh-no) resolving which literally literally means “setting “setting to to right.” right.” Since we were (or (or should be) be) a family family group, reasoned those board members intervening on behalf of of the the rebellious crewmen, our conflict should be be resolved in in the the authentic way way once used used by by Hawaiian families. Accordingly, they Accordingly, they called called in in aa pair pair of of social workers, aa Hawaiian couple II had couple had known since my my student days days at at the the University who who

Setting to Right Right Setting to

79 79

had to troubled troubled had made made aa speciality speciality of of applying applying the the old old method method to Hawaiian families. After false starts, the board members finally managed After several false starts, the finally managed to get the majority of the crew, plus some of the non-Hawaiians to get the majority of the plus of the in the project, at the workers’ home. home. After After seating seating in the project, together together at the social workers’ the floor their living the couple couple explained explained us in in a a circle circle on the floor of of their living room, the the ho‘oponopono ho‘oponopono procedure procedure and and informed informed us that this session session the that this would to captain-crew relations and that that a subwould be be devoted only only to relations and subsequent session would deal sequent deal with with haole-Hawaiian relations. Then Then

they opened with aa long long prayer toto the the Christian God, God, they opened the the session with and to gods and as well. well. and to the the Hawaiian gods and ancestors as The key ho‘oponopono procedure to get get aggrieved The key to to the the ho'oponopono procedure is is to aggrieved parties to to air openly complain complain about those they parties air their their “hurts” and and openly about those they feel have them, on the the assumption assumption that that family feel have wronged wronged them, family divisions stem from to be solved stem from problems problems between individuals which have have to be solved in reunite the family. So So complaints were were called in order to to reunite the family. called for for against Kawika. The The previously previously vocal vocal crewmen were suddenly suddenly against Kawika.

shy and took some prodding prodding toto get shy and it it took get anyone atat all all toto speak speak up. up. young crewmen mustered up up enough enough courage to AA couple couple of of young to charge work alongside us.” “Kawika doesn’t charge that: that: “Kawika doesn’t work alongside us.” know anything the canoe.” “Kawika isis not not aa strong know anything about about the strong enough enough leader.” Although stung stung by by the rules, Although the criticism, Kawika followed the the rules, answering each complaint without attacking attacking those who had had answering each complaint those who criticized him. He pleaded that he was new to the canoe and that him. He pleaded that he to the and that his lectures and other duties duties connected with his and other with his his grant grant took took much much of his time, time, and and then then added added that that he he himself felt down by of his felt let let down by the the lack the crew. Neither Kawika nor the lack of of support support among the the complainants looked each the eye, eye, but, but, as instructed, stared plainants each other other inin the steadily toward the the center of the circle keep them them from from giving giving steadily of the circle to to keep each each other other the the “stink “stink eye.” eye.”

After had spoken piece, the the social workers led led After everyone had spoken his his piece, them of mutual repentance, them through through aa painfully painfully forced forced progression progression of forgiveness and finally the ritual ritual severance of forgiveness and finally the of antagonism. The Despite the The whole process was unreal. Despite the sincere efforts efforts of of

the social workers toto get get all the all complaints out in in the the open, open, Kimo and said little, and the the central charge charge that and his his followers had had said little, and that

80 80

HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way to The to Tahiti

been raised. had not even been the leaders had of the tool of Kawika Kawika was aa tool with work their with aa attacked work their crew the attacked day next the the day Nonetheless, the they days few a Within last. did not last. But it it did a few days they were were rare enthusiasm. But underlying more dragged. once more The underlying work once dragged. The and work in the back dumps and the dumps back in n relations had issue of to be had to of haole-Hawaii haole-Hawaiiaan be faced. To start the process at the second session, the social To the at the the social workers asked that the bring out asked that the crew bring out their their hurts hurts and and problems problems with with me as as aa person and and as president president of of the the Voyaging Society. Society. Silence as Finally, after before with with Kawika. Finally, after some prodding, prodding, aa couple couple of of board members complained about my their comboard complained about my interference in in their mittees. II apologized, for getting mittees. apologized, told told about about my my concern concern for getting the the canoe ready ready for the voyage, after for the after which which we came to to an understanding and went through the required standing and through the required steps steps of of repentance, forgiveness, and ritual severance. forgiveness, and Still the crew was not of Still the not ready ready to to talk talk about the the central issue of haole participation. So So II was asked my own grievances, grievances, haole asked to to state my and told about about how felt to had no business sailing sailing and told how it it felt to hear hear that that II had the canoe and on the and that that my my work stifled stifled Hawaiian self-expression. can’t ask ask you you to to quit quit disliking “I“I can’t disliking haoles,” II added. “You “You have have suffered too much over the last two hundred years for that too much the last two years for that toto

happen overnight. overnight. We We can’t can't right right the the wrongs of happen of history history at at this this All 1I ask ask for for tonight tonight is ho‘oponopono. All is a truce. Let’s Let’s stop stop our for aa time. time. We We have conflict for have aa beautiful canoe, aa beautiful project. project. If we work work together together we can get Tahiti and and back. The If get Hokule‘a Hokule'a to to Tahiti back. The project isis bigger bigger than than our conflict. I I think we will project will all all benefit by by carrying itit through through together.” together.” carrying Again silence. Then Again silence. Then aa Hawaiian board board member volunteered that, “There “There has has been been too too much much hurt, that, hurt, to to our ancestors, to to our history. That isis why find itit so hard hard to history. That why we find to talk talk toto haoles about about problems like like this.” this.” problems

Finally aa few few crewmen spoke spoke up. One talked about how how he he Finally up. One had wanted wanted to to slug slug me me the day II brought the news that that the the canoe had the day brought the voted down down Mau's Mav’s lashings. lashings. The The other other was more committee had had voted

the point. point. He said when toto the he first He said when he first saw the the canoe upon upon its its arrival

at Hawaii Island Island during during the at the interisland cruise he he thought thought “it “it was all Hawaiian, that all that Hokule‘’a Hokule‘a was aa Hawaiian canoe and and would have an an all-Hawaiian crew.” crew.” have

Setting to Right Setting to Right

81 81

“It “We went sailing sailing in “It was really really great,” great,” he he exclaimed. “We in our

malos [loincloths]. ItIt was a real real experience. out experience. Later II found out there were haoles involved in project, there in it, it, that that itit was a scientific project, and that It blew blew my and that haoles haoles were going going on the the canoe. It my mind!” Other to say say that that they had been Other crewmen then then joined joined in in to they too too had been

deceived. Kimo atat last last spoke spoke up up toto admit he was partially admit that that he partially toto blame for not telling the start about about the blame for telling Hawaiians from from the the research base and about involvement. base of of the the project project and about haole haole involvement. At point II suggested The trip Tahiti At this this point suggested aa compromise. The trip to to Tahiti would be on which which the sailing performperformbe the the one on the experiments in in sailing plants and and animals would be be ance, navigation, and and transport transport ofof plants

concentrated, and sail. The trip back back and on which the the haoles would would sail. The trip could be to the the homeland could be aa Hawaiian cultural celebration, aa return to with an all-Hawaiian crew. with

No response. Did not compromise, No Did that that mean the the crew would not that they wanted the the entire round could not not that they wanted round trip trip to to themselves? II could tell. Their tell. Their defensive silence silence closed in in again. again.

The social to move the the process along along by getting The social workers tried tried to by getting others involved involved in the discussion, but but with with only others in the only marginal marginal success. Finally, after they had ritually resolved a number of petty Finally, after they had ritually a of petty grievances, they they stated stated the the key key question: question: “Are the Hawaiians grievances, “Are the Hawaiians ready to to include haoles the project, project, and and are the ready to to ready haoles in in the the haoles haoles ready include Hawaiians so that that we have a Hokule‘a team working have a Hokule’a working together?” together?” Following a lengthy lengthy and Following and strained discussion, the the social social workers finally won agreement from although Kimo and and aa few few finally from everyone, although others held out for what seemed hours. Then they completed the others held out for what seemed hours. Then they completed the after which they they advised session with with a long long ritual ofof severance, after

us that that the whole ho‘oporopono ho‘oponopono process would not be be finished the whole until ten days days hence. and until we completed completed aa final final ceremony ten hence. Kawika and I, with all and board in attendance, were to I, with all the the crew and board members in to wade into leis made made of of aa wade into the the sea just just before before sunset wearing wearing leis special variety of At the the sun set special variety of seaweed. At the exact moment the set we

were toto place leis in in the symbolize that place the the leis the water toto symbolize that our troubles were cast away forever. By now it already mid-April. good winds winds By it was already mid-April. Two weeks weeks of of good weeks two another be still be two weeks would still and itit would lost and had been lost already been had already

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HOKULE‘A: HOKULE A:

The Way Way to to Tahiti The

before we could leave. leave. The The lei before lei ceremony was set set for for the the 22nd; 22nd;

departure departure from Honolulu for for Maui was scheduled for for Sunday Sunday the 25th. the 25th. By the 22nd the By the the canoe was back back in in the the water and and was ready ready to sail sail except except for for loading loading water and and provisions provisions and and some final final to alterations. For that day, For some reason we had had many visitors that day, some tourists and and local local well-wishers but but mostly mostly friends of of various crew including a rowdy members, including rowdy bunch that that occupied occupied the the dock dock and and started drinking to the drinking beer beer there. Then, Then, to to add add to the confusion, confusion, aa crowd of of Hawaiian radicals arrived to try to to try to enlist the the crew and and

Hokule‘a their political political protests. By By the Hokule'a inin their the time the the sun’s rays were beginning to to slant slant inin from the atmosphere was one of of from the the west, the bedlam. Work Work on the the canoe had had ceased, ceased, and and many of of the the crew had joined had joined in in the the drinking. drinking. Half an hour hour before sunset, Kawika and and II and and aa number of of Half other other board members drove drove out out to to the the beach where the the final final ceremony of of reconciliation was to to take take place. place. The The crew was to to follow. They They never came. We follow. We just just stood stood on the the beach watching watching the quickly below the the sun sink sink lower lower and and lower, lower, then then drop drop quickly the be no ceremony that that day, horizon. There would be day, or ever, to to cast off off our troubles. They They remained with with us, us, for for the the moment contained symbolically leis coiled in in aa cardboard symbolically in in the the shiny shiny wet seaweed leis box. box.

Jil 11 Radicals Radicals and and Patriots The next day The day Kawika

and and II were

summoned

to Coast Coast to

Guard Guard

Guard inspectors had had been been watching watching closely closely headquarters. Coast Guard

the rebuilding rebuilding of watertight the of Hokule‘a. Hokule'a. Satisfied Satisfied with with the the new watertight safety equipment, they had the canoe compartments and and safety equipment, they had certified the as seaworthy. Our attendance was required required at at a press press conference where the the admiral where admiral would announce the the certification and and declare that far as the the Coast Coast Guard was concerned, that as far concerned, Hokule’a Hokule‘a was ready to to sail. sail. ready the assembled reporters and television cameras the Before the reporters and the proclaimed his both in the canoe silver-haired admiral proclaimed his confidence both in the

and in in Kawika as the captain. But and the captain. But that that was his his public public performperformance. Once Once the the cameras were packed up and and the the reporters had packed up had left, to Kawika. “Captain,” “Captain,” he he sternly sternly said, said, “if “if you left, he he turned to you take take Hokule‘a to to Kahoolawe T'll it, tow tow itit to Ill confiscate it, to Honolulu and and youll get itit back!” back!” you'll never get 83 83

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HOKULE‘A: HOXKULE‘A:

The Way to to Tahiti The Way

replied a smiling smiling going to not going I’m not to Kahoolawe,” replied worry, I'm “Don’t worry, Kawika. “Im taking her to Tahiti.” her to “Im taking to visit to day’s visit previous day’s the previous from the That brief exchange stemmed from brief exchange That afternoon aa At about that 2:30 that about 2:30 the by Hawaiian radicals. At the canoe by of Hawaiians— crowd of Out tumbled aa crowd caravan of up. Out drove up. of cars drove looking dowagers several men, aa number of and aa dowagers and distinguished-looking of distinguisheddozen or or more teenagers. The their and their arrivals, our crew and The new arrivals, merged briefly. drinking exchanged. hugs were exchanged. and hugs briefly. Kisses and drinking friends merged Then first Hokule'a, where first converged toward Hokule‘a, group converged the whole group Then the and II were standing. mate David Lyman Lyman and standing. the leader given us had given who had the man who leader as the recognized the When II recognized

trouble on Molokai Island, Island, II realized they group they were a protest group who their of their of one of trial of the trial to attend the to Honolulu to flown over to had flown who had number who charged with with trespassing on Kahoolawe, been charged had been who had a small small uninhabited island off the that the of Maui that south coast of the south off the Navy for bombing bombing practice. practice. Navy uses for

Kahoolawe

(Kah-hoh-‘oh-lah-vay) (Kah-hoh-‘oh-lah-vay)

is is extremely

dry. Maui, dry. Maui,

lying upwind, robs the trade trade wind clouds of the and the rain, and their rain, of their robs the lying upwind, island is too low Goats introto cause much new condensation. Goats low to is too duced Navy bombs II, Navy and, since World War II, in modern times and, duced in have already desiccated island barren, island aa barren, the already make the to make have combined to

inhospitable place. place. The recently seized upon had recently The protest group had Kahoolawe as the symbol of and to Hawaiians and haole violence to of haole the symbol their culture. To them, the bombing of this little island was the the To them, the bombing of this little their ultimate act act of by an alien soil by of sacred Hawaiian soil. of desecration of people. To staging begun staging lately begun had lately they had protest, they their protest, To dramatize their people. “invasions” of the island, which had resulted in arrests and the the and in had of the island, Honolulu trial trial they his attending. Their leader made his they were now attending. way way toward me. Finney,” he for a hand for his hand he offered his said as he he said Ben Finney,” “Youre Ben

thumbs-up handshake favored by by young Hawaiians. “The elders have something to Kahoolawe go to to go They want to you. They to you. say to to say something to have before they step on this shut they shut soil before they this Hawaiian soil to step die; to they die; their eyes.” eyes.” He their He went on to explain how he wanted Hokule‘a to to explain how he to carry to Kahoolawe seven elders from Molokai, plus carry to plus himself and and other leaders of the movement. of the some other

Ever since their their invasions had had started a few few months back, back, I

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85 85

had been been half-expecting, half-expecting, half-dreading this Already had this encounter. Already there had had been inquiries about using the canoe as a there been indirect inquiries using the

ferryboat to land land protesters on the the island. But But today’s today’s appeal appeal was ferryboat to really directed to The crew was the target. Soon a public public not really to me. The the target. system appeared, appeared, as did did aa videotape videotape camera to address system to record

the show was on. First the event. The The show First came an emotional plea, plea, folfol-

lowed by lowed by Hawaiian songs songs and and aa graceful graceful hula hula performed by by one of the the dowager dowager Hawaiians in flowing gown. of in aa long long flowing gown. Then came aa

fiery fiery appeal appeal to to Hawaiian patriotism that that gripped gripped the the crew. ItIt set set the slight amount of blood in in first Lyman’s the slight of Hawaiian blood first mate David Lyman’s blood racing, but but above above all all it blood racing, it excited Kimo. “Ben, the the guys guys really really want to to do do this,” this,” exclaimed Kimo, Kimo, smiling smiling “Ben, for “Going to to Kahoolawe will will really really make for once. “Going make Hokule'a Hokule‘a aa Hawaiian canoe.” minority of of one. Hokule‘a be aa boon to the II was aa minority Hokule'a would would be boon to the especially when when the seized it it and and Kahoolawe cause, especially the Coast Guard Guard seized national headlines proclaimed, proclaimed, “Hawaiian Bicentennial Canoe Seized Liberating Liberating Island.” The The funny funny thing thing was that Seized that this this vision greatly appealed appealed to to me—but only only after after the greatly the voyage was completed. To get get involved in the To in invading invading Kahoolawe now would wreck the

project; we would never sail sail for for Tahiti. project; to the his response was as When Kawika returned to the canoe his unequivocal it was immediate. “No!” he he said with aa resolve I1 unequivocal as it said with had him before. “If “If we go go to to Kahoolawe the had never seen in in him the Coast Guard will will confiscate confiscate Hokule‘a, Hokule‘a, Tl T'll lose my license license and and the the project project Guard lose my will end right there.” will end right The day was Saturday Saturday the 24th, the the day day before we were The next day the 24th, to sail sail for The mood at at the the canoe was especially especially scheduled to for Maui. The ugly that that morning. fired up ugly morning. Those who had had been so fired up about going going to problem was coming coming to Kahoolawe felt felt disappointed. And And a new problem to head: money. Some crewmen were angry angry that and to a head: that Kawika and

paid. To To be did have David Lewis were being being paid. be sure, the the two did have grants grants from but so did Kimo Hugho, Hugho, the the leader of of this this from outside sources, but so did protest. In addition, addition, Kimo had also requested protest. In had also requested and and received generous payments from from the Voyaging Society, Society, as had had two the Voyaging cash payments generous cash

the swamping. the canoe since the of his his followers, for working on the for working of They protesters. the to difference But that did not make any to the They were were any But that did

86 86

sure

HOKULE‘A:

that that Kawika,

The Way to Tahiti The Way to

Lewis

and and

the rest of the of the the “leaders”

were

profiting they were demanding payprofiting from from the the crew’s labors, labors, and and they payment for wages lost while working for wages lost while working on the the canoe as well well as for for the the they would be time they be sailing sailing on Hokule‘a. Hokule'a. A week earlier II had with the A week had met with the crew to to arrange distribution of of the the $3,000 $3,000 set set aside—as earlier promised—to help help crewmen meet extraordinary expenses and and especially especially to to help help the the families of those few few crewmen who that time many of of those who were married. At At that of the for anything, the crew declined to to ask ask for anything, or just just requested requested a token and aa number of of others. They amount. Not Not so Kimo and They demanded

anything from anything from many hundreds to to a few few thousand dollars apiece. apiece. Their prevented the Their bickering bickering broke up up the the meeting meeting and and prevented the allocation of what funds we did have. tion of what did have. II had had then then asked asked Tommy Tommy Holmes if if he he could could try try to to solve the the money Tommy had moncy problem. problem. Tommy had been been scarce around the the canoe until until when his his job aa few few weeks previous, when job with with the the State Legislature had had ended with the adjournment of with the of that that body. body. Since then then II had had given given Tommy share of Tommy his his share of jobs jobs to to do. do. One One of of his his main assignments was

the plants and animals we were to the plants and to carry carry to to Tahiti Tahiti as a partpartexperiment, part-demonstration of of how how Polynesians Polynesians were able able to to transport their their domestic flora flora and and fauna from from island to to island on their He had the necessary their migrations. He had obtained all all the necessarv plant plant materials special backbreeds of rials and and had had lined lined up up special of the the Polynesian Polvnesian dog, dog, pig and chicken from pig and from the the Honolulu Zoo. Zoo. Then, Then, just just after after he he went to work on the to work the money moncy problem, problem, the the Hawaii Humane Society Society struck. Alerted by to the who had*been by a visitor to the canoe who had been shocked when she when she saw the the small size size of of the the animal animal cages cages we carried on board, the the Humane Society Society sent me a three-page resolution deboard, demanding that we not carry animals. And they put pressure on the manding that not carry And they put the Zoo director to those animals he he had promised. FortuZoo to deny deny us those had promised. nately we already the dog; nately already had had the dog; the the director withheld the the pig pig and and the Tommy to the chickens, chickens, forcing forcing Tommy to start searching searching around the the islands for zoologically for zoologically appropriate replacements replacements while while he he also also worked

the payment issue. on the Tommy Tommy had had some help help on the the money from from a Hawaiian board thought that member who who thought that if if he he surveyed surveyed the the requests of of each each crewman, then up the then added up the total, total, those demanding too much would realize realize the the situation and and automatically lower their their demands. demands.

Radicals and and Patriots

87 87

He He spent spent all all week making the survey, then making the then left left it it to to Tommy Tommy to to

announce the the total total and the necessary adjustments work out announce and work out the adjustments in in a day. When noon came around, day. Tommy opened around, Tommy opened the the meeting by by that an extra thousand dollars had announcing that had been been obtained; obtained; a total total of of $4,000 $4,000 was now available for for distribution. But, But, Tommy Tommy all requests added, added, the the total total of of all requests stood stood at at over $24,000. $24,000. Some Then he to scale crewmen would have have to scale down down their their demands. Then he read read who off the individual requests, exposing off the exposing to to public public scrutiny scrutiny those those who radical then a self-styled Just demands. inflated made had had made Just then a self-styled

Hawaiian sporting sporting an Afro Afro hairdo butted in. in. “Can’t you you divide divide do you you he demanded. “Why the money up the up the the Polynesian Polynesian way?” way?” he “Why do them the you just impose impose things things on people? people? Why Why don’t don’t you just give give them the money!” money!” “We've been trying trying to,” “We've been Tommy Holmes. to,” answered aa crestfallen Tommy Until now Kimo Kimo had had been been in in the Until the background. He He had had arrived shortly before the meeting, carrying two large sheets of shortly before the meeting, carrying large sheets of cardboard

covered by length of of tapa tapa cloth. The old old relaxed, smiling by aa length cloth. The smiling Kimo was completely gone. With and the completely gone. With his his newly newly grown black black beard beard and the pained look he had had acquired acquired over the the last half year, year, perpetually pained look he last half Kimo looked at at once mysterious mysterious and and worried as he stepped he stepped challenge Tommy, Tommy, his his old old friend. forward to to challenge friend. At first Kimo protested At first protested the the small small amount of of money available. Then he started started arguing arguing that could not leave on Sunday Sunday and and Then he that we could not leave be ready ready to to go go for would not not be for some time. the Hawaiian way, placing aa deadline to to leave,” leave,” “That’s not not the way, placing he said, said, ignoring ignoring the the fact that aa late late start start threatened to make the he fact that to make the trip to Tahiti more difficult and to force force the trip to Tahiti and to the canoe to to return

during the hurricane season. “It’s computer’s deadline, deadline, right? right? during the “It’s the the computer’s The computer runs everything. everything. I've I’ve got got proof proof right The right here.” With that unveiled the the sheets sheets of of cardboard on which With that Kimo Kimo unveiled which

he had pasted photographs of of Hokule’a Hokule‘a swamped swamped inin the the Kauai he had pasted and had had carefully printed in letters lists lists of of all all the channel and carefully printed in large large letters the things wrong with the the canoe that her departure. departure. As As things wrong with that prevented prevented her Kimo started started to to speak, speak, aa camera team from Kimo from aa Honolulu television

joined the the National Geographic Geographic group group to to film and his his station joined film Kimo and placards. Neither Neither Kawika nor II had placards. had called called the the station. This This was Kimo’s press conference. The central message. The his central go,” was his to go,” ready to not ready “We're not “Were

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HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way to to Tahiti The

“computer” was forcing forcing the the crew to to leave leave when they they were not not ready. to Kimo's Kimo’s meandering speech, ready. According According to speech, too many things things still be finished on the still had had to to be the canoe; seamanship, seamanship, safety safety and and medical training training had had to above all, all, the to be be conducted; above the crew’s morale needed attention. “There’s a lot lot of of work work that that has has to to be be done,” done,” he he

proclaimed. “Ho‘oponoponos are going to arc going to take take months.” “That’s my my feelings “That's feelings and and that’s that’s what’s so,” so,” Kimo finally finally concluded. “Thank you much. I’ve you very very much. I've been been accused of of being being aa radical, know what Hawaiian people people deserve. deserve. radical, but but II think think II know what the the Hawaiian They've for effect like like aa They've been been taken taken for for granted.” granted.” Then, Then, pausing pausing for veteran actor, actor, he out, “Two hundred years gang!” he shouted out, vears later, later, gang!” That rhetorical flourish bring out out the the irony That flourish was designed designed to to bring irony that our voyage would celebrate almost to the year another that would to the year in addition to bicentennial in to the the American revolution: the the coming coming of Cook in in 1778 1778 and all the of Captain Captain Cook and the the arrival of of all the woes brought brought on by by contact with the outside world. To Kimo, had with the world. To Kimo, our project project had

just another haole rip-off. rip-off. become just Kimo was maumauing us and and all all those those who who would be be watching his performance on television—on the ing his the evening evening news and and later later

in Bell’s film. his speech in Dale Dale Bell's film. II well well knew one major major effect his speech would have on viewers in in Hawaii. It It would scare off off contributors, inhave including those those from from whom we were just soliciting funds cluding just then then soliciting funds for for But II was not sure how additional crew support. support. But how the the crew would react to to Kimo’s words. Would they they all all follow him him and and refuse to to

sail? Much depended sail? depended on what Kawika now did. did. Our captain calmly calmly moved to Our captain to reassert his his command. “The “The canoe isis ready,” he said to the assembled crew. He then explained ready,” he said to the He then explained how the the wind made it leave once more how wind patterns made it imperative that that we leave right The Articles, Articles, a formal contract that spelled out the right away. The that spelled the

and rights duties and rights of of the the crew (not (not just just “the “the crew” but but all all of of us who who sailed ), was ready to be signed. Kawika announced in a matter-ofsailed ), ready to be signed. in a fact tone, the trip those fact tone, “You “You can sign sign on as a crew member for for the trip for for those of you who go. For of you who want to to go. For those of of you you who who don’t don’t feel feel youre youre obligated—don’t want toto sign; sign; fine, fine, no problem.” Some signed others only signed immediately, others only after after protesting. Still Still others like others like Kimo just They were the the losers. “No just walked away. They “No

Radicals and and Patriots

89 89

problem,” problem,” as as Kawika had had said. said. If If they they did did not want to to go, go, they they did not have to sign sign up. did have to up. It was not be as easy It not going going to to be easv as that. that. Many Many aa time time later later we that those who signed were to to wish wish that those who who refused refused to to sign, sign, or who signed under protest, the canoe forever. But protest, had had walked away from from the But the the next day, Sunday, departure, they day, Sunday, the the day dav of of departure, they were back, back, including including Kimo. They much of Thev did did not do do much of anything anything except except form form angry angry little little caucuses, which the other which drew drew most of of the other crew members as well. well. That left Society regulars That left us “leaders,” plus plus Society regulars and and volunteers drawn from the from the huge huge crowd there there to to see us off, off, to to finish finish loading. loading. At noon Kimo took the At Kimo took the stage stage again again and and began began agitating agitating for for aa delay delay until until Tuesday. Tuesday. Now Now his his story story was that that the the canoe really really only only

needed minor alterations and and that that the the crew (including (including those who who had accepted accepted the had the expense monies originally originally offered once they they realized that that was all all that that was available) only only needed a few few extra days to settle settle their days to their affairs. Kimo had had lost lost yesterday. yesterday. If If he he could could delay the the sailing sailing just just aa few delay few days days he he would save face. face. Kawika, trying to be reasonable, wavered, said said okay, trying to be okay, then then reversed himself, himself, declaring, today at at four.” declaring, “No, “No, we leave today That left That lett practically practically everyone evervone on the the crew, even those who who had had willingly willingly signed signed the the Articles the the day day before, before, either angry angry or confused, confused, or both. both. The The sailing sailing time may may have have been been firm firm in in Kawika’s mind, but whether or not not we could actually mind, but actually cast cast off off was another question. question.

Both Kawika and have dismissed those Both and II wished that that we could could have had been protesting and crewmen who who had and dragging dragging their their feet feet the the last last weeks. But But Hawaiian self-respect, so battered by by the the events of at stake. stake. If of the the last last two centuries, was at If any any Hawaiians were dismissed itit would be be a further blow, blow, one that that would not not be be allowed, at at least least not not without a battle. The The word had had already already been been passed along that of the passed along that some of the Hawaiian board members would automatically “vote with the the blood” “vote with blood” if if there there was an attempt to to dismiss any from the any “brothers” from the crew. Prudence dictated that that we abort the the voyage, maybe maybe abandon the the project project altogether. altogether. But But that that would have brought brought dishonor to to

all We had had to all involved. We to go. go. Yet, Yet, given given the the mood prevailing prevailing as four four

90 90

HOKULE‘A:

The The Way Way to to Tahiti

o'clock approached, it that it o’clock it began began to to look look doubtful that it would be be possible off. Then aa kahuna stepped possible to to cast off. stepped forward. Edward Kealanahele (Kay-ah-lah-nah-hel-lay) was his his name. He but otherwise boyish-looking Hawaiian in He was a gray-haired gray-haired but in his late forties. Herb Kane and I had met him several years his late Herb Kane and I had him years

previously on his his home previously

island of of Hawaii.

He He had had offered his his

services to to us, us, but but we had had seen no need need for for spiritual spiritual aid aid at at the the time. Subsequently II had to know and and trust him had come to him well, well, and and had recently asked asked him to help had recently him to help us through through our trials. trials. Now the eleventh hour Now at at the hour Kealanahele intervened, asking asking the the of the crew toto follow him him toto aa corner of the wharf away away from from the the canoe and the and the crowd. Most followed, except except for for Kimo and and aa few few others. So So did did the the camera crew, but but Kealanahele immediately immediately shooed them them off. He He knew how their cameras had off. how their had aa way way of of evoking evoking protest protest and and magnifying controversy. “I to see this go,” he voice breaking “I want to this canoe go,” he said, said, his his voice breaking and and

welling in eyes. “The Hawaiian people tears welling in his his eyes. people are looking looking to to you you

Hawaiian boys to make make this Hawaiian boys to this trip. trip. You have to to go go for for yourselves, vourselves, for your families, for your ancestors!” for your for your Then he he asked that each crewman give Then that each give his his opinion opinion whether or not the leave that not the canoe was ready ready to to leave that afternoon. atternoon. He He knew better than to throw the question out for anyone to respond. than to the question for to respond. Instead he he turned to turned to Sam Sam Kalalau, Kalalau, aa rugged rugged cowboy cowboy from from Maui in in his his early early fifties. fifties. “Papa Sam, Sam, youre the oldest “Papa you're the oldest here. here. What do do you you think? think? Is Is the the canoe ready ready to to go?” go?” chose wisely, Sam Kalalau was one of Kealanahele chose wisely, for for Sam of the the few few crewmen who had not up in crewmen who had not been been caught caught up in the the protests protests and and foot foot dragging. had disgusted him to dragging. In In fact, fact, that that behavior had disgusted him to the the point point of of quitting. like both quitting. But But more than than that, that, like both Kawika and and Kealanahele, Sam his Hawaiian identity. Sam was secure in in his identity. As As a kuahiwi or “backcountry’ Hawaiian, he he was the country” the direct antithesis of of the the urban urban Hawaiian watermen who who were at of our crew problem. at the the heart heart of problem. go,” Sam “Sure I1 think think we gotta gotta go,” Sam readily readily replied. replied. “We “We gotta gotta leave this The longer stay here, the more trouble we gere leave this place. place. The longer we stay here, the get.” That did it. The rest fell into line, agreeing that Hokule‘a That did it. The fell into line, agreeing that Hokule'a was ready toto leave leave as planned. One ready as planned. One or or two two of of the the crew crew lamely lamely tried tried to to

Radicals and and Patriots

Ql 91

support Kimo’s Kimo’s case, but in the support but in the end end they they also also admitted that that the the should go. go. canoe should By 4:30 4:30 most of By of us scheduled to to sail sail to to Tahiti Tahiti were on board, board, along along with with some members of of the the return crew who who would sail sail back back

from Tahiti Tahiti toto Hawaii. Kealanahele prayed prayed for for a safe safe passage to to Maui. Then Then all the canoe and and on shore all on the shore joined joined in in a tearful rendition of of “Hawaii Aloha,” Aloha,” after after which we cast off. off.

Kimo was with with us, us, but but not for for long. long. After angrily angrily muttering something something to to aa couple couple of of crewmen, he he dramatically dove dove off off the the canoe canoc and and swam back back to to the the wharf, whart, leaving leaving Hokule‘a to to those who who wanted to sail. to sail.

At last! of Honolulu Harbor after At last! What aa joy jov itit was to to pull pull out out of after being being stuck stuck there there so many tedious months. Even those those crewmen who an hour been milling who hour before had had been milling around the the wharf debating debating whether or not they thev should follow follow Kimo were relieved to to go. go. As lights of As the the lights of Honolulu faded into into the the distance, distance, one crew

and said local pidgin member turned to to his his friend and said in in the the local pidgin English English dialect, dialect, “Suppose “Suppose we no leave today. today. II no can go go home. Shame.” Shame.”

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( 12 Mau Maui Monday morning, after aa smooth crossing, Monday morning, after crossing, we pulled pulled into into Honolua Bay, a deep indentation in Maui's rocky western shore Bay, a deep in Maui’s rocky shore that that would

for the the next six six days shelter us for days while we completed completed final final preparato sail tions to sail to to Tahiti.

The first few The first few days days on Maui were peaceful—Kimo and the the other still in dissenters were still in Honolulu.

Once we had had touched shore, shore,

most,of sailed over with most of the the crewmen who who had had sailed with us took took refuge, refuge, as sailors will sailors will before aa long long voyage, in in the the bars bars of of Lahaina, Lahaina, the the old old whaling port that is now a tourist haven. That left Kawika, Dave whaling port that is a haven, That left Lyman and and me to to work Lyman work on the the canoe, while while Sam Sam Kalalau and and Rodo Rodo Williams, our Tahitian recruit, were busy busy getting getting fresh fresh food food for the for the voyage. The The absence of of Kimo and and other other crewmen gave gave us aa welcome respite. What What is respite. is more, for for once we found found ourselves in in aa friendly friendly

and supportive atmosphere. Our Our Maui hosts, and hosts, particularly particularly the the 92 92

Maui

93 93

Hawaiians among them, them, were outraged outraged at at Kimo’s television perperformance. They They declared their their support support for for Kawika against against all all those who voyage or use the those who would would delay delay the the voyage the canoe to to invade Kahoolawe. That That gave gave Kawika aa needed boost. When When Kimo finally finally did up Thursday Thursday evening, did show show up evening, Kawika took took him him aside aside and and dismissed him from the the crew. him from Kimo’s dismissal came as aa shock to his supporters, both Kimo's to his both on and and off the thought thought of off the the canoe. An An alarmed Dale Dale Bell, Bell, aghast aghast at at the of all all the he had already shot shot of the thousands of of feet feet of of film film he had already of Kimo and and the the difficulty difficulty he he would have have building building up up another crewman erewman to to star star in in his film, to make his film, urged urged Kimo to make aa stand. stand. Yet Yet Kimo took took his his dismissal without great protest. Had made aa stand, great protest. Had he he made stand, had had he he tried tried to to mobilize all those who harassing us, us, we might all those who had had been been harassing might never able to to sail. have been been able sail. The The truth truth was that that Kimo did did not want to to go. go. Like Like many who who enthusiastically sign sign up up for for a long long voyage, when when it it came down down to to actually not prepared actually leaving, leaving, Kimo was not prepared to to commit himself to to the the sea. After After having been built having been built up up as the the archetypical seaman of of the the Hawaiian cultural revival—first by Herb Kane and then by Dale by Herb and then by Dale Bell—how could himself, that could Kimo admit, admit, even to to himself, that he he did did not want to to go? for some time. To go? Mau Mau had had seen this this tension building building for To

his eyes, his eves, that that was

behind

all of Kimo’s protesting and all of and foot foot

dragging, the leaders dragging, and and then then his his denunciation of of the the canoe and and the at the dockside press at the press conference. Yet from the Yet Kimo could could not not just just quietly quietly walk walk away away from the canoe. On On Friday morning, the morning after his dismissal, Kimo and Friday morning, the morning after his dismissal, and his his now distraught distraught supporters formed aa sullen sullen caucus on the the beach. The for midday; The departure ceremony was scheduled for midday; we would sail the following day, Saturday, May 1. A fine sail the following day, Saturday, May 1. A fine misty misty rain was falling, blessing rain according according to falling, aa blessing to Hawaiian belief. But But the the gray gray dampness imparted to dampness it it imparted to the the normally normally sunny sunny bay bay combined with with the to cast gloom the black black mood of of the the crewmen to gloom over what what should

have have been been a happy happy occasion. Our kahuna ally ally Kealanahele, realrealizing izing that that something something had had to to be be done, done, called called aa meeting meeting on the the beach.

with Kealanahele like aa ho‘oponopono session, with ItIt started out like

between mutual forgiveness, between and mutual a reconciliation, and working toward a working

94 94

HOKULE‘A:

Way toto Tahiti The Way

Kawika and and Kimo. Kealanahele stated stated the the “hurts” that that had had to to be be resolved before before Hokule‘a could could sail: sail: Kawika’s Kawika's anger anger over the the un-

authorized press press conference

and Kimo’s and

public denunciations public

coupled with Kimo’s chagrin at summarily fired coupled with Kimo’s chagrin at being being so so summarily fired by by Kawika. But meeting soon got got out of But the the meeting of hand hand as crewmen

responded to the cameras and to the and microphones of of our built-in media representatives, the the National Geographic Geographic Society Society film film team, team, and and started extolling extolling Kimo and and charging charging Kawika with with having having overstepped his authority. stepped his authority. “T love for and the the “I think think what what Kimo did did was out out of of love for the the canoe and whole crew,” tearfully exclaimed Billy Richards, a young crewman crew,” tearfully Billy Richards, a who had protests back in Honolulu. “Kimo who had supported supported all all of of Kimo’s protests back in “Kimo has done all of of us. We're here has done so so much much for for all here because of of Kimo. 'm I'm here because of here of Kimo. You You think think we can go go on the the trip trip knowing knowing that to be that this this happened happened to to Kimo? The The spirit spirit is is not going going to be there. II think apologize for think Kimo doesn’t have have to to apologize for what what he he said... said. . . .” .” joined in in the attack, including including Voyaging Others joined the attack, Voyaging Society Society board

members sympathetic to get in to Kimo. Kawika could hardly hardly get in a word word edgewise about how how Kimo had edgewise had gone gone behind his his back back to to complain complain before the the television cameras. Kealanahele, struggling struggling to to regain regain control of of the the meeting, meeting, resorted to to speaking speaking to to Kawika in in Hawaiian. they could not speak ian. That That shut shut up up Kimo and and the the others, others, for for they speak the much of the language language or understand much of what was being being said. said. “Will you you forgive forgive this yours. Will “Will this boy? boy? The The decision is is yours. Will itit be be yes or no?” of Kawika, yes no?” implored implored Kealanahele of Kawika, trying trying to to initiate the the

by having ho‘oponopono process of of mutual mutual forgiveness forgiveness by having Kawika be the first to to apologize. be the first apologize. After dialogue between the After a long long dialogue the two, two, all all spoken spoken in in Hawaiian, Kawika finally said that he forgave Kimo and asked turn that finally said that he forgave and asked in in turn that forgive him. him. Kimo forgive Kealanahele, switching switching back back to English, then to English, then started working working apologize so that on Kimo, Kimo, begging begging him him to to apologize that the the meeting meeting could could end end and the departure and the departure ceremony could could begin. begin. But Kimo, Kimo, maybe maybe because he did what Kawika had had said becanse he did not not understand what said in in Hawaiian, reacted by again on his grievances, even dragging by starting starting in in again his grievances, dragging in in his disappointment over not going to Kahoolawe. his not going to “Okay, hold it interrupted “Okay, hold it there! there! Hold Hold itit right right there, there, Kimo!” interrupted

Maui

95 95

Kealanahele,

after plea for to after which he he rephrased rephrased his his plea for Kimo to apologize. “The decision is What’s it going toto be?” be?” apologize. “The is now. What's it going

“T will not be be aa member of to Tahiti,” Tahiti,” replied replied “I will of the the crew going going to Kimo, assuming aa statesmanlike manner and and acting though it Kimo, assuming acting as though it were his his decision and not the captain’s to make. A sobbing crew and not the captain’s to A sobbing member collapsed feet, adding apparent collapsed in in despair despair at at Kimo’s feet, adding to to his his apparent grandeur. grandeur. “Okay. still want you to apologize captain.” “Okay. II still you to apologize to to the the captain.” Kimo continued to to resist, resist, forcing forcing Kealanahele to to resort to to asking he merely Kawika’s hand. hand. After After much much urging, urging, asking that that he merely shake shake Kawika's

including pleas from distraught father, finally clasped including pleas from his his distraught father, Kimo finally clasped hand inin aa thuinbs-up thuinbs-up grip. grip. The The encounter was over; the the Kawika’s hand departure could begin. begin. departure ceremony could From the up to to aa grassy grassy clearing. clearing. There There Sam Sam From the beach we moved up Ka‘ai, chief host Ka‘ai, a full-bearded Hawaiian who who was our chief host on Maui, Maui, directed sit in Then came the the deep-throated directed us to to sit in aa large large circle. circle. Then sound echoing against against the sound of of conches, conches, echoing the valley valley walls, walls, announcing

the opening of of the the opening the ceremony.

The first to to speak, tall and The first speak, a tall and

dignified be aa success dignified Hawaiian minister, prayed prayed that that our mission be

and asked for spoke in and asked for God’s God’s blessings. blessings. He He spoke in aa Hawaiian so eloquent eloquent that who could could not understand aa word word listened listened attenthat even those those who tively as his the narrow valley valley floor. floor. tively his cadenced phrases phrases spread spread over the Then also speaking speaking in added his his blessings, Then Kealanahele, also in Hawaiian, added blessings, after speech in in Tahitian. after which came aa speech The speaker Rodo Williams, Williams, the the white-haired Tahitian The speaker was Rodo pilot us through had aa mariner recruited to to pilot through Tahitian waters. He He had serious message to deliver to to the the crew about how how they they should act act to deliver in be no marijuana in Tahiti, Tahiti, and and particularly that that there there should be marijuana on the voyage. Since Since joining earlier, Rodo Rodo had the joining us us two months earlier, had come to know our crewmen and had realized that they might well ignore to know and had that they might well ignore the and other drugs on the the prohibition prohibition against against taking taking marijuana marijuana and other drugs the canoe. Rodo, whose English speak in in Tahitian, Tahitian, Rodo, whose English is is halting, halting, chose chose to to speak with Professor Kenneth Emory Emory translating. with translating. Seventy-eight-year-old

good job the first first part part of of Rodo’s speech Kenneth did did a good job on the speech but but stumbled

over one word, word, aa Hawaiian

word, that that he he could not word, could not

pakalolo. Kenneth had had learned his his Hawaiian early translate: pakalolo. early in in

96 96

HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way to to Tahiti The

pakalolo (pah-kah-loh-lo (pah-kah-loh-loh)h )was had no idea that pakalolo idea that century and the and had the century for marijuana. the the neo-Hawaiian term for Our the condid. Several snickered over the of course did. Our crewmen of fusion. It all a big has marijuana use has Recently marijuana to them. Recently joke to big joke It was all become common in rich, the rich, in the plants flourish in the plants in Hawaii, where the

volcanic soil major becoming a major is even becoming It is and humid conditions. It soil and export crop. Tons of local other local and other "Kona Gold” and of “Maui Wowie,” “Kona export crop. varieties are surreptitiously grown and and to California and shipped to and shipped

points east, of their prices because of bring premium prices thev bring east, where they points reputedly superior superior properties. reputedly The Coming speak. Coming to speak. Mau rose to when Mau The serious tone was restored when from aa culture where to use Mau wanted to valued, Mau highly valued, ritual was highly where ritual from this at sea. theyv should behave at how they the crew ie tell the to tell setting to this formal setting Everyone Geaitcdl what our canoe master would hear what to hear anxiously to walted anxiously Evervone say. He He started started speaking speaking loud his native Satawalese. in his clear in and clear loud and say. Mike McCoy, Mau's to Mau’s Corps volunteer married to the former Peace Corps McCov, the niece, had just from Micronesia, he translated Mau’s and he Micronesia. and in from flown in just flown niece, had forceful speech, phrase, into equally English. equally forceful English. bv phrase, phrase by speech, phrase “I all of to the ocean to act on the vou must act how you vou how of you tell all to tell “I want to survive. On On the don’t eat the same or sleep the the same, or sleep eat the the ocean we don’t work the On the is different. On do is Evervthing we do land. Everything the same as on land. work the ocean all all the water, is the of the the control of is under the the water. all the food, all the food, captain. When he eat, we eat. drink, we drink. savs drink, he says eat. When he savs eat, he says captam When worrving that are worrying thmfis that the things all the away all leave, throw away “Before we leave, you. all your problems on land. land. you Leave all “On the the ocean you the and the captain and the captain of the control of the control you are under the “On navigator of If savs we follow. If captain says the captain Evervthing the the canoe. Everything of the navigator you the to the talk to will talk and I| will first and to me first problem, come to ha\ e a problem, vou aga captain. captaln.

to have to All we have any islands. All the ocean we cannot see any “When on the survive on are the to have to all II have is all That is with us. That bring with things we bring the things say. place that place will see that and we will things, and these things, vou, these of you, all of say. Remember, all we are going going to.” to.” . Wise phrasing and stern phrasing the content and but the seca, but the sea, for the words for Wise werd stunned the at aa he was at heard Mau when he always heard had always They had the crew. They linguistic disadvantage trying to express himself in broken English. English. in trving to linguistic

Maui Maui

97 97

Now, with Mike Mike McCoy’s help, Mau Mau had been able able to his Now, with McCoy’s help, had been to speak speak his mind freely. freely. Kimo’s close close disciples among the the crew were also Kimo’s disciples among also shattered that that Mau had not said word in of their but instead Mau had not said a word in support support of their leader, leader, but instead had chosen to to admonish them to follow the the captain and the the rules had them to captain and rules of Mau was actually of the the sea. Mau actually greatly greatly relieved that that Kimo Kimo was not not going. While staying with Kimo and his going. While staving with Kimo and his parents parents in in Honolulu, Honoluly, Mau enough to to Mau had had come to to know know our former former crew chief chief well well enough

realize long the rest of of us that that Kimo was not not prepared long before the prepared to to the voyage. make the voyage.

Following meal served to by Sam Following aa ritual ritual meal to us by Sam Ka‘ai, Ka‘ai, two wooden images and lashed on tightly, images were taken taken out to to the the canoe and lashed on tightly, one to to the sternpiece on the the port other to the sternpiece port hull, hull, the the other to the the sternpiece on the the hull. Then Then conches sounded to to announce that that the the starboard hull. ceremony was over and and that Hokule‘a was free free to sail. that Hokule'a to sail. As in the the crowd called called the the crew over As we broke broke up, up, someone in and began passing out T-shirts emblazoned with and began passing out with the the motto “Kahoolawe—Stop the the Bombing.” But all that But that that was all that happened. There was scuttlebutt that that the the Molokai protest group had been There protest group had been planning in numbers on Honolua Bay Bay to make one last planning to to descend in to make last

appeal appeal to to have have Hokule‘a Hokule'a ferry ferry them them over to to the the disputed disputed island of of had been off by Kahoolawe. However, they they had been warned off by aa kahuna— not Kealanahele, another kahuna to to whom they they had for not had gone gone for advice, knowing they personal advice, not not knowing they were petitioning Kawika’s personal

spiritual advisor. It heartening to have kahunas helping spiritual It was heartening to have helping us for once. for once.

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13 13 North North May 1—Departure for May for Tahiti “Let go! go! Let “Let Let go!” go!” shouted Kawika. Only Only aa thin thin line line tied tied the the canoe to to the the land. land. On On shore shore Kealanahele strained to to hold hold on. He He could not hear us above the noise of the wind and the crowd. could hear above the of the wind and the to the Some minutes before he he had had delivered us to the sea, sea, blessing blessing us one by small outby one as we were shuttled out out to to Hokule‘a Hokule'a in in aa small outrigger he seemed determined to hold us to last. rigger canoe. Now he to hold to the the last. The canoe wanted wanted to to go go even though though the the sails The sails were still still furled, furled, bunched up the twin up against against the twin masts. An An offshore breeze had had sprung up normally calm up in in the the normally calm bay bay as we assembled on board board and and was catching the sails, pulling folds loose and making them whip catching the sails, pulling folds loose and making them whip and and pop. anchor was up, up, the pop. The The anchor the bows bows were pointing pointing seaward; seaward; only only the the single single stern stern line line held held the the canoe. Finally, Finally, just just as as Kealanahele was about to be dragged into the to be dragged into the sea, he he let let go. go. The The canoe began began to to move out. The The crowd on shore shore and and lining lining the the cliffs cliffs above above cheered. We We were underway underway at at last, last, bound for for Tahiti. First we let big sail sail forward, the smaller sail let out out the the big forward, then then the sail aft. aft. 101 101

102 102

HOKULE‘A: HOXULE ‘A:

The Way Way to to Tahiti The

since had sheltered us since that had bay that the bay of the out of guided us out Kawika guided the curving around the the waves curving skirted the We skirted from Honolulu. We arriving from arriving broke hit us as we broke trades hit the trades of the force of full force the full Then the headland. Then her her forward, surged forward, canoe surged The cliffs. The the cliffs. of the lee the lee of from the away from into the open ocean as we headed north. sails sails drawing drawing her her into the open s~—e

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Sailing north? Sailing A strange way way to heading for A strange to be be heading for Tahiti, Tahiti, an island thousands of of miles other direction! But miles in in the the other But it it makes sense in in terms of of the the

challenge of the voyage: making making easting. easting. We We have to to drive central challenge of the the canoe far enough to to the the east against against wind and and current if if we the far enough

reach the the longitude of Tahiti and and not end end up up pushed pushed west are to to reach longitude of of our target. That is is why why we are tacking tacking north north around Maui and and of target. That miles of of easting easting before turning turning southward Hawaii—to gain gain extra miles toward Tahiti. The The obvious route would would have have been been to to sail sail south from from Maui, Maui, pass between the the small small islands of of Kahoolawe and and Lanai, Lanai, and and then, then, pass after sailing sailing down the after the west coast of of Hawaii Island, Island, turn hard hard into into

North

103 103

the wind to tack tack southeast for for Tahiti. That That would have been been the the wind to would have the quickest way to in aa day quickest way to quit quit Hawaiian waters; in day or so so of of fast fast

sailing we could cleared South South Point, Point, the the southern tip tip of sailing could have have cleared of Hawaii Island and the southernmost point in the the archipelago, and Hawaii and the point in and have been to Tahiti. What have been on our way way directly directly to What is is more, we would have by the legendary Tahitian have been been retracing retracing ‘the ecourse taken by the legendary voyager started by sailing south vovager La‘a, La‘a, who who sta1 ted his his homeward journey journey by sailing south through the the channel channel separating Kahoolawe and and Lanai, Lanai, aa passage through that ever since has been known as “The “The Way Tahiti” (Ke-ala-ithat has been Way to to Tahiti” (Ke-ala-iKahiki). But that route would would have have put put us at Kahiki). But that at aa disadvantage in in terms of of easting. easting.

Our way to Our way to Tahiti will will Hawaii, following the route Hawaii, following the when Tahiti. when they they sailed sailed for for Tahiti, to length of voyage, to the the length of our voyage,

take side of of take us down the the windward side that other early took that some other early voyagers took Although this may days Although this may add add several days it pay off off inin terms terms of of easting. it should pay easting.

By the South Point Point we should be 150 miles By the time time we clear clear South be aa good good 150 miles farther east of would have have passed passed it sailed of where we would it had had we sailed

directly south from from Maui. directly south May May 2—One day day out out Everyone tired after wet night of getting by Everyone is is tired after aa wet night of getting drenched by spray short, choppy choppy seas. After spray from from the the short, After sailing sailing north for for about about nine night we came about and headed headed nine hours, hours, last last night about to to the the port port tack tack and east-southeast against fresh northeast trades. From then against the the fresh then till till dawn we watched the back on Molokai and dawn the lighthouse lighthouse back and the the one on the of Maui ahead ahead of of us in in order to gauge gauge how how the northeast coast of order to much easting we were making. much easting making. To To our gratification, gratification, the the Molokai light gradually faded in the as the the Maui light light gradually faded in the distance as ligcht became brighter this morning getting so brighter and and brighter. brighter. By By nine nine this morning we were getting close to Maui that we had to go back over on the other and close to that had to go back the other tack tack and head north gain enough land to head north once again again to to gain enough distance from from land to make make it to the the southeast. Judging from it around Hawaii on the the next tack tack to Judging from where we were opposite the Maui coastline when when we tacked, tacked, itit where opposite the looks like twenty miles miles of of easting the first first looks like we made made over twenty easting in in the eighteen bad, considering considering that have been eighteen hours of of sailing. sailing. Not Not bad, that we have been tacking against the new sail tacking against aa strong strong coastal current. Thanks to to the sail

104 104

HOKULE‘A:

The Way to The Way to Tahiti Tahiti

rig installed after the swamping, the the canoe is is sailing sailing far far better better to to rig after the than she she did her last last windward trial—the ill-fated windward than did on her attempt to cross the attempt to the Kauai Channel. and eggs! eggs! Come and and get get it!” it!” Kawika was joking joking of of “Bacon and All we had had this this morning morning were selections from from the the PolyPolycourse. All nesian fare carrying: salt salt fish fish and and slices slices of of dried dried banana nesian fare we are carrying: and potato. These, plus a load load of of preserved preserved taro, taro, some eggs eggs and sweet potato. These, plus (chicken eggs eggs in in lieu of the the unobtainable seabird eggs eggs traditional (chicken lieu of carried), some fresh produce, and and what what fish fish we catch catch voyagers carried), fresh produce, along the way, way, are are the the sole sole foods foods we we are are pledged—for pledged—for the the sake sake of of along the science and and the the budding budding Hawaiian cultural cultural renaissance—to subsist

of sailing. upon for for the the next month or so of sailing. So far, far, so good Although some are still still seasick So good with with the the crew. Although from the bouncy ride the choppy choppy seas, everyone is is trying trying to to from the bouncy ride over the work together, together, willingly willingly turning turning to to at at the the command to to come about, about, work to take steering or bailing. bailing. That That is is why why it it was so jarring jarring or to take aa turn steering this afternoon to to discover crewman Billy Billy Richards listening listening to to aa this special waterproof waterproof radio. What that that radio radio transistor radio—Kimo’s special was doing doing on board the the canoe is is a mystery. II thought thought we had had made it it clear clear back back in in Honolulu that that transistor radios radios were taboo—betaboo—Dbethey would undermine the the navigation experiment. In In skilled skilled cause they radio can be be used used to to take take bearings bearings on broadcasthands aa transistor radio ing and thus thus is is a handy handy navigational navigational aid. aid. However, II do do ing stations and not think think the that. “TI “I was just just listening listening to to not the erring erring crewman realized that. music,” Billy explained when ordered to to stow the the radio radio for for the the music,” Billy explained duration of the voyage. jeA of the

May days out out May 3—Two days This morning, after after tacking tacking north north for for a day, day, we came about about on This morning, the the port port tack tack to to head southeast for for Tahiti. No No land land is is in in sight, sight, but but the huge we know know that that the huge island of of Hawaii lies lies to to the the south. The The hope isis that that if if the the wind wind keeps keeps coming from the the east-northeast, and and hope coming from ifif the the current we are pushing pushing against against is is not too strong, strong, this this tack tack will take take us past past the the eastern cape cape of of the the island in in a day day or so. will Hokule'a is is heavy, heavy, as heavy heavy as as she she will will ever be. Hokule‘a be. She She is is weighed weighed

down by full crew, a collection of down by aa full plants, a dog of Polynesian Polynesian plants, dog and and

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a pig and two chickens, pig and enough food chickens, enough food and days on and water for for thirty thirty days full full rations, rations, plus plus all all manner of of gear. gear. She through the She now wades through the head head seas instead of of lightly lightly cutting as she cutting across them did on her them she did her last last practice practice run out of sailing empty empty and of Honolulu, sailing with a clear and with a clear deck. Weight deck. Weight cuts down good riding down the the good riding qualities qualities of of doubledoublecanoes, and slows them also. Still, and slows sailing close them also. close to Still, sailing the wind, to the wind, knots. making about Hokule‘a isis making about 55 knots.

The long, narrow platform The deck—a long, platform made interspersed with bamboc bamboo poles and lashed interspersed with poles and between the the hulls—is crowded, particularly between particularly

of wooden planks of planks to the the crossbeams to the forward twotwothe thirds. Large burlap sacks stuffed with coconuts, taro roots, sweet thirds. Large burlap sacks stuffed with roots,

potatoes and up much much of space. At and sugarcane take take up of the the space. At any any one time half half aa dozen men from be resting or napnapfrom the the off off watch will will be resting or ping among of line ping among the the sacks, sacks, coils coils of line and and other other items on deck. deck. But But no one sunbathes, sunbathes, for for it cold and and wet. We all wearing wearing it is is too too cold We are all full foul foul weather gear—rubberized pants pants and and jackets—tor jackets—for protecfull protection cool wind and spray the canoe as as we tion against against the the cool wind and spray that that showers the plow through through the head seas. seas. plow the head

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the men on There the cargo. There with cargo. less crowded with The The afterdeck isis less

lean others lean the others steers, the While one person steers, found. While be found. to be duty duty are to staring out idly or just talking idly out just staring deck, talking the deck, side rails against the the side of the rails of against to to sea.

There us on board: Kawika, our captain; There are seventeen of of us board: Kawika, captain; Dave Lyman, our first first mate; mate; Mau, the navigator; Dave Lyman, Mau, the navigator; Rodo Rodo Williams, Tommy Holmes and myself as our Tahitian pilot; pilot; David Lewis, Lewis, Tommy and myself with special duties to crewmen with special duties to document various aspects of aspects of the eight general the experiment; experiment; eight general crewmen, including including cowboy cowboy Sam Sam Kalalau; and Kalalau; and two National Geographic Geographic Society Society representatives, one to to take take still still photographs the magazine, the the other other to to film photographs for for the film our adventure for for the the television special. special. Conspicuously absent from from the the canoe is is Herb Herb Kane. Wounded

by the the suggestion suggestion that he not join us us until until we reach reach Tahiti Tahiti (in (in by that he not join order to give free hand hand to to establish his his command on the the order to give Kawika a a free

way that he he would not sail way there there),), Kane declared that sail atat all. all. However, in aa sense he in he isis with with us. In overall conception the the canoe isis in In its its overall in large part part his his legacy, and Sam Sam Kalalau isis carrying carrying with him anlarge legacy, and with him

other example of of Kane’s artistry: other example artistry: an advance copy copy of of the richly the richlv book on the the original original Polynesian Polynesian discovery of Hawaii illustrated book discovery of

that Kane was able to finish finish after that Kane able to after withdrawing withdrawing from from Voyaging Voyaging Society Society affairs following following the the swamping. May days out May 4—Three days out “Four Youre on, cheery voice voice “Four o'clock. Youre on, Ben.” Ben.” Tommy’s Tommy’s overly overly cheery time for air announces that that it it is is time for me to to surrender our common air and sleeping bag and and stand stand the from 44 toto 88 a.m. mattress and sleeping bag the watch from

get out out of the damply sleeping bag bag and II sleepily sleepily get of the damply warm sleeping and make my my

way aft, aft, stepping carefully along and over bags bags way stepping carefully along the the slippery slippery deck deck and

of and sleeping It isis cold cold and and wet. We We might might be be in in of tubers and sleeping forms. It the tropics, but the 15-knot trade trade wind the tropics, but the blowing across the the deck wind blowing deck plus spray from from the the head head seas makes it it downplus the the nearly nearly constant spray right especially at night when there isis no warming right cold, cold, especially at night when there warming sun. II still even wearing still feel feel chilly, chilly, cven wearing a jogging jogging suit suit under my my foul foul weather

gear. gear. Those old old Polynesians must have have been been tough. tough. Rain capes capes made made

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of of bark bark cloth cloth and matting were all of leaves plus plus blankets of and matting all they they had to to protect the elements. Some think that had protect themselves against against the think that the amply endowed with with muscle the blocky blocky Polynesian Polynesian physique, physique, so amply and the wind and fat, fat, must have have helped helped them them withstand exposure to to the wind and sea on long long voyages. Probably, Probably, although although II suspect and suspect that that living living the life life of of sea rovers also also made made them body and and mind so the them tougher tougher in in body mind so that the feel was ignored that the discomfort we city city dwellers feel ignored or maybe maybe not even noticed. Take example. Before leaving Take Mau, Mau, for for example. leaving Honolulu II gave gave him him aa jogging suit with the thought thought that he would to have have somejogging suit with the that he would like like to thing warm to Mau carefully thing to wear under under his his rubberized gear. gear. But But Mau carefully packed the jogging the rest left behind packed the jogging suit suit with with the rest of of the the clothes he he left in he only occasionally dons his foul foul weather in Honolulu. And And so far far he only occasionally dons his gear. Mostly Mostly he only aa pair of shorts gear. he wears only pair of shorts and and a T-shirt—even when of us bundled up. God we did did not try try to to when the the rest rest of us are bundled up. Thank God

go all the way way inin this ban the go all the this experiment and and ban the sweaters, jogging jogging suits and other gear to our comfort. suits and all all the the other gear so essential to II am on Kawika’s watch. He has divided us into into two groups groups of of watch. He has six men to to alternate watch his command, the six watch duties, duties, one under under his the other under first first mate Dave Lyman. Lyman. On On a yacht these groups other under yacht these groups would and port port watches. But, But, as part part would be be known as the the starboard and of teach us us Hawaiian, Kawika uses the of his his effort effort to to teach the Hawaiian

terms for and ama for the the watches: ‘akea ‘akea (‘ah-kay-ah) for for starboard and (ah-mah) for port. (ah-mah) for port. These terms go go way way back back into Polynesian Polynesian prehistory, when the the outrigger outrigger canoe was primary. primary. Ama Ama basically prehistory, when basically refers always rigged rigged on refers toto the the float float ofof an outrigger canoe, which isis always the left, or port, port, side of the the hull. hull. ‘Akea “Akea refers refers to the hull, the left, side of to the hull, which which is is always the starboard, or right, of the float. always on the right, side side of the float. Mau belongs to neither watch; watch; he he sets sets his his own schedule Mau belongs to neither according to navigational requirements. At their request request the the according to navigational At their photographer and and the the cameraman have excused from from watch photographer have been been excused watch duties. duties. The night night watches are four four hours long, the the day day ones six six hours, The hours long, hours, which results in in aa constantly constantly shifting keeps us from which shifting schedule that that keeps from having to stand watch the same time day after day, night after having to stand watch the time day after day, night after night. off duty at 88 a.m., and and night. For For example, example, this this morning morning we went off duty at will go go on again again from P.M. Then the next twentywill from 22 to to 88 .M. Then to to start the twenty-

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at 44 a.M., off at midnight, off at midnight, again at cyele, we go go on again a.m., on from from four-hour cycle, midto p.m. 8 from watch midlast to the p.Mm. for 8 from again on watch then last the f(n to 22 p.m., 8§ to again p.a., then night. Then Then we go the same cycle today’s. night. go back back on the cycle as today’s. something watch, we have have something the dreary Unlike the dlealy midnight-to-four watch Unlike to look forward to to on the the four-to-eight to look fowr-to-eight watch: sunrise and and break-

fast. This fast. This morning

sunrise

seemed

late in late in coming,

probably probably

of aa heavy because of of trade trade wind heavy layer layer of wind clouds clouds obscuring obscuring the the the sun climbed above the clouds we could horizon. But But once the the clouds could

enjoy its enjoy its couple of couple of Tahitians

Then came breakfast. drying warmth. Then drving (mah-hee-mah-hee, as both mahimahi (mah-hee-mah-hee, both late call glittering dorado) the glittering call the dorado) caught caught late

cut up Mau cut up aa Hawaiians and and yesterday vesterday afterafter-

the tasty tasty raw flesh, noon. First First we snacked on chunks of of the flesh, then then Mau is roasted over coconut husks. Mau feasted on fillets Mau roasted is proving proving our navigator. to to be be much much more more than than just just our na\'igator. As As the the only only genuine genuine things to canoe sailor sailor among us, us, he he is is our teacher in in all all things to do do with with cooking. including the canoe, aboard living living the including cooking. An attempt attempt inin Honolulu to An to construct an authentic Polynesian Polynesian cooking with sand bulky monstrosity cooking box box lined lined with sand produced produced aa bulky monstrositv that that took took up up so much much deck deck space space itit had had to to be be discarded. Mau Mau then then came to to our rescuc rescue with the type with the tvpe of of stove he he and and other other Micronesian canoe sailors sailors now use: aa five-gallon five-gallon kerosene tin tin with with the the sides sides cut and and perforated perforated for efficient combustion. combustion. for efficient Coconut husks provide the the fuel, husks provide fuel, although although our navigator-cook navigator-cook has the hundreds of has many many other other uses for for the of coconuts we carry carry on board. To to other other Pacific To Mau Mau and and to Pacific islanders still still close close to to nature, the the coconut is is aa source of of drinking dr ml\mg water, food food and and craft craft materials as well and laying well as fuel. fuel. After After removing removing the the husk husk and laving it it aside aside for for fuel, cracks the fuel, Mau cracks the hard hard inner shell shell with with aa machete, machete, drinks drinks the the water within, out chunks of within, then then pries pries out of the the oily oilv white white meat for for an energy-packed snack. Then Then he files the edges of each half of the he files the edaes of each half of the shell and and cleans them to make for eating them to make serviceable serwceable bowls for eating and and drinking. drinking. Although coconuts are plentiful plentiful in they are now Although in Hawaii, Hawaii, they virtually ignored. Our Our crewmen have virtually ignored. have never seen anything anything like like this, of them them have have apprenticed themselves to this, and and several of to Mau, Mau, who has put put them them to husking coconuts, scooping who has to work husking scooping out the the meat and manufacturing a collection of bowls. and a of bowls.

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After breakfast all of us on Kawika’s watch After all of watch would would normally normally have have turned in in to to catch catch some sleep sleep before we had had to to go go on watch again p.m. But this morning again at at 22 p.ar. But this morning we had had work to to do: do: the the cluttered decks to, organizdecks needed needed reordering. reordering. Cheerfully Cheerfully all all hands turned turned to, organizing sacks of of coconuts, sweet potatoes, ing the the sacks potatoes, taro and and sugarcane; coiling the coiling the extra lengths lengths of of line; line; putting putting flares, flares, life life rings rings and and other safety items safety items in in the the handiest places; places; and and stowing stowing our personal personal gear. gear. Everyone Everyone seems to to be be in in aa good good mood. mood. On On the the eve of of our departure David David Lewis had departure had proposed proposed that that the the conflict between “crew “crew” and and “leaders” would be be forgotten forgotten “once we face face the the common challenge challenge of of the the sea and and work together together to to get get the the canoe

to Bucking head to Tahiti.” Bucking head winds and and the the short, short, steep steep seas off off Maui and has certainly been any and Hawaii has certainlv not not been any fun. fun. But But that, that, plus plus getting getting

dry from the our sea legs legs and and trying trving to to keep keep dry the near constant spray, has everyone busy—too busy for has kept kept evervone busv—too busv for much much talk talk or reflection about past differences or about what lies ahead past lies ahead in in the the weeks of of hard sailing sailing itit will will take to reach Tahiti. Tahiti. hard take to

14 14 Rescue Rescue May 4—Three days days out May out (continued) ) right after chores, Around noon, right after finishing finishing our housekeeping chores, roaring in in the coming closer, then we heard aa roaring the distance, coming closer, fading, fading, then coming closer again. coming closer again. Finally Finally a four-engine aircraft broke through through the clouds, heading Right over our the low low clouds, heading straight straight for for us. Zoom. Right heads, hardly hardly 500 heads, 500 feet feet above the the masts. We recognized recognized itit as a Coast Guard C-130, C-180, aa turboprop turboprop search-and-rescue aircraft. What was itit doing doing out out here? here?

“It's probably and report report exercise,” “It's probably just just a search, search, locate and But the kept circling, circling, and volunteered Dave Lyman. Lyman. But the C-180 C-130 kept and twenty twenty up. What for? minutes later later aa Coast Guard helicopter helicopter showed up. for? Then the the Meotai, the Then the big big steel-hulled motor sailer sailer that that is is trailing us, pulled trailing us, pulled up up parallel parallel to to our course and and let let out its its Zodiac rubber boat boat with with two figures figures aboard. With With difficulty difficulty the the helicopter helicopter the towed Zodiac. A hovered directly directly over the A basketlike contraption was lowered to the bouncing to the bouncing rubber boat, boat, then then raised with with

someone inin it. it. ItIt was lowered again again and and someone jumped jumped into the the 110 110

Rescue

ae 111

great mystery, mystery, for Zodiac. All All this this was a great for we were too far far away to to see who who was involved. Finally Finally we contacted the the Meotai over the the little little hand-held citizens’ band radio we carried.* band radio carried.®* Dale Dale Bell Bell had had been been hoisted aboard aboard the the helicopter; helicopter; aa substitute film fihm maker had had been been lowered

to replace him him aboard the to replace the Meotai. The film team is paying share of the cost The film team is paying aa major major share of the cost of of chartering chartering the the Meotai (their (their only only financial contribution to to the the project) project) so that for their that they thev can use itit as aa base base for their filming filming operations. Dale

Bell insisted on going going along Bell along despite despite his his inability inability to to sail sail more than in open aa few few miles miles in open ocean without getting getting seasick. What is is more, he had left with aa recently he had left with recently broken foot foot bound up up in in aa cast. Now, Now, after three at sea, ill and after three days days at sea, the the violently violently ill and hobbled film film producer producer has requested and and received medical evacuation to has requested to Honolulu. Having the the Meotai trail trail behind us is Having is also also essential to to the the navigation experiment. Their gation Their navigator, a a Voyaging Voyaging Society Society board board member, is tracking us, fixing our position each noon so that is tracking us, fixing position each that once the have an exact record the voyage vovage isis over we will will have record of of where we have have sailed. Merely settle the sailed. Merelv arriving arriving in in Tahiti will will not settle the issue of of the the worth of of noninstrument navigation navigation methods over long long distances. It [t might might be be possible possible to to blunder to to Tahiti, Tahiti, arriving arriving at at the the island through freak combination of through aa freak of navigational errors that that somehow canceled each We need each other out and and put put us on target. target. We need a day-byday-byday record of our course so that once the voyage is over we can day record of that the is sit plot our noninstrument calcusit down—wherever down-—wherever we land—and plot lations against against the the actual record. lations The Meotai has The has another important function. The The 64-foot-long, 64-foot-long, broad-beamed ketch ketch is of rescuing the is our safety safety net, net, capable capable of the whole crew if if the the canoe founders. We We do do not not want to to take take aa *# Unlike regular pick up up standard and regular radios that that can pick and shortwave broadcasts brouadeasts from night thousands) of away, and from many hundreds (and (and at at night of miles miles away, and thus thus can be be used to determine the broadcasting station, our CB used to the direction of of the the broadcasting CB radios operated operated limited to on a frequency limited to line-of-sight line-of-sight transmission—about five five to to ten miles between our two vessels. Useless for for radio direction-finding, they did not comthey did between

promise the promise the navigation experiment. Kawika Kawika and and the the others who who handled the the CB CB his men, were the Captain and his and the the Meotai and of the Captain of transmission from canoce, and the canoe, from the any canoe’s position, data or any \.ve:'ather data not to position, weather agreement not the canoe’s prior agreement to discuss the bound by prior bound by original voyagers. voyagers. the original advantage over the other give us an advantage that would give other information that

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losing anyone. Nor call on the chance on losing Nor do do we want to to call the Coast Guard in in an emergency. Too Too many experimental voyages have have

grief and object of come to to grief and have been the the object of massive and and expensive air-sea searches. It It would be be bad bad enough enough to to get get into into trouble; trouble;

worse, we thought, thought, toto have have to to call call upon the the Coast Guard to to rescue us. us, So for precautions. So much much for precautions.

NZS

(50°

180°

oor

a

20°

15 Southeast Southeast May days out ((continued May 4—Three days continued)) After the excitement over the producer's rescue died died After all all the the film film producer’s

down, we spied break inin the the clouds aa down, spied off off to to starboard through through aa break sharp spire spire with tinge mountain peak, peak, aa sharp with aa tinge looked to be Mauna Kea, the dormant one to be Kea, the feet-plus that dominate the the huge huge teet-plus volcanoes that

of snow showing. of showing. It It of a pair of 13,000of a pair of 13,000island of island of Hawaii—

although could not be be absolutely absolutely sure as the the gap the clouds although we could gap inin the closed closed in in too too quickly. quickly. Nonetheless, our dead-reckoning dead-reckoning calculations

that we should be indicated that be opposite opposite Mauna Kea, Kea, or “White Mountain” to to use the the peak the literal literal translation of of the the name given given the peak of the the snows that often cover the during the because of that often the summit during the winter. Thus Thus we took the identification as positive. took the as positive. This means we are pulling the island and and should This pulling abeam abeam ofof the should clear Cape tonight. According legend, clear Cape Kumukahi sometime tonight. According to to legend, this chain was named named after this easternmost point point inin the the Hawaiian chain after one of first voyagers toto sail from Tahiti. Once clear clear of of the the cape of the the first sail up up from cape 113 113

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The Way Way toto Tahiti The

other and many other he, and to where he, back to way back be on our way truly be we will will truly had come from. legendary voyagers, had from. legendary trailing astern, so lines trailing three fishing fishing lines the three No more strikes on the No salted of salted sticks of hard sticks afternoon hard reluctantly on late snacked by reluctantly we by late the naturally naturally sweet slices fish fish and and the slices of of dried dried banana. Not Not aa very very satisfying the second, second, and satisfying fare fare for for the and last, last, meal of of the the day. day. Especially Especially not for more fresh you are hungry hungry for not when you fresh fish fish and and are thinking thinking about enough of sitting down to aa full-course dinner. But about sitting down to But enough of such such visions. The The ancient voyagers got got along along on dried dried foods, foods, and and we pledged to to do are pledged do the the same.

May May 5—Four days days out Darkness came quickly quickly last last night; night; too many horizon clouds for for aa lingering lingering sunset. Around eight eight o'clock o’clock Lyman Lyman and and his his crew

relieved us. II wasted no time time going going forward to to set up up the the air air and sleeping deck. II had mattress and sleeping bag bag on deck. had been been up up since 44 a.M.; a.nx; clearing deck and clearing the the deck and then then the the ruckus over the the Coast Guard visit had prevented any nap. had prevented any nap. No sooner had had II lain lain down, No down, itit seemed, seemed, than than Tommy Tommy was shaking shoulder, announcing that shaking my my shoulder, that it it was midnight midnight and and time to This watch from to go go back back on watch. This from midnight midnight to to 44 a.m. ar. is is the the dreariest of of them all. all. You You are at at your your sleepiest sleepiest then, then, and and there is is usually nothing nothing to the chill usually to do do but but stand stand in in the chill wind wind and and mark time time till four hours pass hit the till four pass and and you you can hit the sack sack again. again. But But last last night was different. Our vigil was rewarded by night Our vigil by aa welcome sight: sight: the faint loom light sweeping over the the loom of of a light the horizon well well off off to to the Coast indicating that starboard, the Coast Guard lighthouse lighthouse indicating that we were clearing Cape clearing Cape Kumukahi with with a good good number of of miles to to spare. At midday the Coast Guard plane At midday the Coast plane showed up up again, again, this this time to globulin serum. We learned over the to drop drop aa load load of of gamma globulin the CB CB radio radio from from the the Meotai that that back back on Maui Maui our host host Sam Sam Ka‘ai was critically critically ill ill with with hepatitis. hepatitis. Because he he had had personally personally preprepared pared and and served the the food food at at our farewell farewell feast, feast, we were all all supposed supposed to to get get shots of of the the protective gamma globulin. globulin. It It seemed aa bit bit farfetched to to us that that we would come down with with hepatitis hepatitis in in

the the middle of of the the ocean. occan. Nonetheless, the the specter of of anyone concon-

115 115

DOLDRUMS

tracting disease en route, tracting this this debilitating debilitating disease route, not not to to mention

the the

possibility of of a total total epidemic epidemic on board, agree toto take possibility board, made us agree take the Once the the Meotai Meotai crewmen retrieved the the air-dropped air-dropped the serum. Once serum and brought it to us in the Zodiac, and brought it over to in the Zodiac, David David Lewis used used

his medical skills do the his skills toto do the honors. Dave Lyman Lyman revenged revenged us by by giving his shot. shot. giving Lewis his

By now, late inin the afternoon atat the the end fourth day day at By now, late the afternoon end of of this this fourth at sea, should be of Hawaii Island’s South South Point— sea, we should be pulling pulling abeam abeam of at least at least according according to to dead-reckoning dead-reckoning estimates. No No land land is is in in sight. sight. Hawaii's well to to starboard, hidden in Hawaii’s massive volcanoes must lie lie well in the and clouds. The the haze haze and The strategy strategy of of tacking tacking north north around around the the islands has has apparently paid off. off. We apparently paid We are leaving leaving Hawaiian waters with aa good good measure of with of easting easting already already won. Now our job job isis toto drive the trades trades to as much drive the the canoe southeast against against the to gain gain as much easting as possible before before we we reach reach the the equator. equator. ing as possible Before us lies 2,500 miles the Tuamotu Before lies 2,500 miles of of sea road road curving curving to to the Islands, coral Islands, coral atolls atolls flanking flanking Tahiti Tahiti from from the the northeast and and east. the Tuamotus, it short and and easy sail from IfIf we can reach reach the it will will be be aa short easy sail from

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Fara

there But that have to there on to to Tahiti. But that means we have to make aa good good 800 800 miles to the the current miles of of easting—400 to to cancel out the the miles miles lost lost to that will will be be pushing pushing us westward an average of of 20 day that 20 miles miles each each day we are in the trades, and another 400 to make it to the meridian in the trades, and 400 to it to the of sailing of the the Tuamotus. We We have have to to gain gain most of of that that easting easting sailing southeast against against the the trades, trades, or even east-southeast if if the the wind wind allows. The eastward-flowing countercurrent in the doldrums The in the

easting. But through the the should allow us to to gain gain some more easting. But once through will be be next toto impossible impossible to any more easting. easting. doldrums, it it will to make any From then on will be blowing more out of From then on the the trades trades will be blowing more out of the the southeast southeast than the at best than the northeast, northeast, forcing forcing us onto aa course that that at best will will be be

Southeast

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slightly easting slightly west of of south. south. So So if if we have have not not made the the required required easting before then—too bad; before bad; we will will end end up up pushed pushed somewhere to to the the west of of Tahiti. A how well hulls track A lot lot depends depends on how well Hokule‘a’s shallow hulls track through the ocean and the sideways the wind. Even through the and resist the sideways push push of of the Even more important important is how well sails lift is how well the the new sails lift the the canoe to to first set set of of broad, have windward. Our Our first broad, baggy baggv sails sails would would never have taken The tall tall crab-claw sails sails now arching arching high taken us to to Tahiti. The high above above us are Our after the our hope. hope. A A few few months after the swamping, Kawika, Kawika, David Lewis and flew to to visit lava field. and II flew to Hawaii Island Island to visit a remote lava ficld. There etched into into the lava are There the smooth surface of of the the once molten molten lava the elegantly curved sails, by some the outlines of of elegantly sails, stunning stunning works works by unknown Hawaiian sailor-artists. Our Our sails sails patterned patterned after after them them look look even more magnificent, silhouetted against against the the blue blue trade trade wind the wind. wind sky sky and and tautly tautly curved in in the wind. We We only only hope hope that that the the ancient Hawaiians who developed this crab-claw shape were as who developed this shape good at aerodynamics as they they were at art. good at at art. Our sails are in Our sailmaker, aa young voung part-Hawaiian whose whose sails in much much demand among Hawaii's old Hawaii’s yacht vacht racers, thought thought so. “Those old Hawaiians had looking over the had something,” something,” he he exclaimed after after looking the petroglyph rubbings. petroglvph rubbings. “They “They were working working toward aa high-aspect high-aspect yachtsmen got ratio sail sail hundreds of of years vears before before yachtsmen got around to to it.” it.” What he meant was that the ancient Hawaiian sailmakers had What he that the had developed tall, narrow sail along developed a a tall, sail that, that, since lift lift is is concentrated along the forward part of aa sail, for windward efficiency—a the part of sail, made for principle that principle that has has only only recently recently come into into vogue vogue among modern designers. designers. There There are, are, of of course, great great differences between the the crab-claw sail and sail and the the tall tall Marconi mainsail of of aa modern modern yacht. yacht. Although Although both are triangular, compared to the Marconi sail the Hawaiian both triangular, compared to the sail the one of the the triangle being at one is is upside upside down, down, the the apex apex of triangle being at the the foot foot of of the sail. Furthermore, swooping the sail. Furthermore, swooping curves at at the the head of of the the Hawaiian sail ian sail give give it it the the crab-claw appearance so alien alien to to modern modern sail sail design. Exactly Exactly why why Polynesians Polynesians developed design. developed the the inverted inverted triangular triangular sail, and sail, and why why Hawaiians added added the the distinctive upper curves that that distinguish their sails Polynesia, is distinguish their sails from from those those elsewhere in in Polynesia, is lost lost in in the unwritten history of Polynesian naval architecture. Our best the history of Polynesian naval Our best

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guess is is that the old this design design as the the old canoe masters developed this that the guess to combine island woods, way to way woods, coconut fiber fiber line line and and matting matting nt leaves of woven from from the saltwater-resistant of the the pandanus pandanus tree to to the saltwater-resista make an efficient, efficient, durable sail. sail. The art of sail sail matting, The art of of weaving weaving long, long, narrow strips strips of matting, then then of stitching stitching them together to of them together to make aa sail, sail, has has died died out out in in the the but aa few Pacific on all all but few remote atolls atolls in in the the western Pacific. We We went to to considerable trouble and and expense to to commission weaving weaving masters from two of those islands to make enough sail from of those to enough sail matting for aa set set of for of woven pandanus pandanus sails. sails. But But the the actual actual fabrication of of

these sails sails from these from the the rolls rolls of of matting matting shipped shipped to to us was delayed delayed by by the change in sail design after the the change in sail design after the swamping. They They were not completed until until just just before departure, and with all all the the troubles and with we never did did have a chance to to try try them out properly. properly. So So we are sailing with aa cheap cheap set of canvas sails sails originally originally made to to be be sailing with set of models for for the the shelter shelter built built over the the the mat sails. sails. Lashed under the hull are the the untried mat sails—to be be tested along along the the windward hull way and perhaps, perhaps, if if they they work work out out well, well, hoisted for for the the return trip. trip. way and We We sometimes refer refer to to the the sails sails as the the “mainsail” and and the the “mizzen.” But But these these terms terms grate grate on on the the ear; ear; they they belong belong to to the the “mizzen.” haole haole sailing sailing world. Mostly, Mostly, following following Kawika’s lead, lead, we call call them them

the lala mua (lah moo-ah) and and the the la la hope hope (lah (lah ho-pay ho-pay),),Hawaiian the (lah moo-ah) for and “aftsail.” for “foresail” and Even though though the the sails sails are Hawaiian in in name and and shape, shape, their their master is is from from the the tiny tiny Micronesian atoll atoll of of Satawal, Satawal, thousands of of miles west of of Hawaii. While Kawika has has overall Command command of of the canoe, Mau controls the the sails—how the the masts are raked fore fore the and aft and aft or canted over to to one side, side, and and how how the the sheets are trimmed to the angle angle of to set set the of the the sail. sail. This This is is consistent with with indigenous indigenous navigational practice. In In the the absence of of instruments so much

depends on the depends the precise precise control of of the the canoe that that the the navigator takes takes personal personal charge charge of of setting setting and and trimming the the sails. sails.

16 16 Sailing by Stars Sailing by the the Stars May 5—Four days days out out ((continued May continued)) Mau the canoe—the port, Mau has has staked staked out out his his territory territory on the port, stern corner of where, since since the out to to of the the afterdeck afterdeck where, the sails sails stream out starboard, he can and enjoy starboard, he can feel feel the the uninterrupted uninterrupted wind wind and enjoy aa clear clear view and the the horizon stars ahead. always view of of the the sea and ahead. Mau Mau is is almost almost always to be found there. His round, impassive face and thick, muscled to be found there. His round, impassive face and thick, body seem as much aa fixture of the canoe canoe as the body seem of that that part part of of the the buxom female image to the just behind his buxom image attached to the sternpiece just his post. post. It to see this this master navigator It is is aa rare privilege privilege to navigator at at work. work. II have read much about about noninstrument navigation navigation and the old old have read much and how how the

Polynesian sailors employed employed it long voyages. But But until until Polynesian it on their their long now the to seeing sailing the closest II have have come to seeing it it applied applied was when sailing on Tahitian copra on Tahitian copra schooners, schooners, watching watching consummate consummate island island seamen seamen combine parts of two navigational systems: using using compass and and parts of charts, but also of wind, wind, charts, but also relying relying on noninstrument observations of sea and and stars to to sail sail unerringly unerringly from from island to to island. island. 119 119

SurpvaryFT pipmoy surpva ayy panmo4 fo yooyysy ay; oy fo invyy

Sailing by by the the Stars Stars Sailing

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Mau He carries aa star compass inside Mau sets course by by the the stars. He inside his the navigational navigational stars that his head. head. Where the that form form the the points points on his his

compass tip eastern horizon upon tip the the castern upon rising rising and and the the western setting mark horizon upon upon setting mark the the points points of of aa star compass that that is is further defined by the north and the the Southern in by Polaris Polal is in in the north and Southern Cross in the point on the the south. south. The The particular partmulm point the eastern horizon horizon toward which aiming the which Mau Mau is is now aiming the canoe isis where the the star Tumur rises. Tumur is Satawalese for Antares, a red giant of a star 285 is for a red giant of 285

times larger than our sun. Its Its reddish glow glow dominates Scorpius, Scorpius, times larger than the after the constellation Polynesians call call the the *“Fishhook Flshhook of of Maui,” Maui,” after the demigod who fished up islands out of the sea, including the demigod who fished up out of the sea, including the the one that bears his his name. Antares bears that becus bears east-southeast. Mau Mau wants to Hokule‘a pointed at its the to keep keep Hokule'a pointed directly directly at its rising rising point point so that that the resultant course allowing allowing for and current will to the the for leeway leewav and will be be to southeast. The of the the wind The exact angle angle of wind is is crucial, crucial, and and it it isis already already apparent the wind Using Mau’s star apparent that that the wind isis not cooperating. Using compass, we can see that that instead of of blowing blowing from from the the northeast

(or coming (or north-northeast as we had had wildly wildly dreamed), itit is is coming mostly That prevents us from from always mostly from from the the east-northeast. That always holding time holding the the canoe pointed pointed as high high as Antares. Much Much of of the the time

we are heading the next star compass point heading for for the point over from from Antares —the rising at the the —the rising point point of of Shaula, Shaula, the the bright bright star star at the end end of of the Scorpion’s stinger, or the The resultant Scorpion’s stinger, or the point point on Maui’s fishhook. The with leewav leeway and looks to course with and current figured figured in in often often looks to be be more toward the the south-southeast than than straight straight southeast. But But that that is is not not too bad. not as much bad. We We are still still making making easting, easting, just just not much as we would like. like. Antares is of course not not always horizon is of always conveniently on the the horizon when Mau sight. It does not rise rise until when Mau wants to to make make aa star sight. It does until an hour dark, and already too hour or so so after after dark, and toward midnight midnight it it is is alrcady too high high in the give an accurate bearing. stymied in the sky sky to to give bearing. But But Mau is is not stymied when when Antares is is not not in in the the right right position. position. He He knows the the sky sky well well

enough of practice tell at glance where enough after after three three decades of practice to to tell at a glance Antares should cut He can look, example, to cut the the horizon. He look, for for example, to those those stars that have the same general declination as Antares but rise that have the general but rise before or after it. To Polynesian terminology, he he sights after it. To use the the Polynesian sights on those that rise of the the same pit pit on the follow those stars that rise out of the horizon and and follow

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is several the path across the a star is if a the heavens. Even if arching path the same arching degrees to to the left of it makes no difference; path, it of Antares’ path, right or left the right degrees he can easily easily make the necessary mental adjustment. make the he Should the be so cloudy be to be that no horizon stars are to cloudy that the horizon be sighting on whatever stars by sighting bearings by his bearings get his still get Mau can still seen, Mau

(he divides the Southern Cross (he Polaris, or the at Polaris, glance at visible. AA glance are visible.

its its rotation around the the South Celestial Pole Pole into into five five separate separate star

compass points points) ) or any any number of of other other stars and and constellations in in his his repertoire is is sufficient. Mau knows the the shape shape of of the the sky sky so well that he well that he has has only only toto see the the smallest portion toto find find his his way. way. ItIt isis said said you you can spot spot aa traditional island navigator by by his his looks the part. He bloodshot eyes. eyes. Mau looks the part. He seldom sleeps. sleeps. Most of of the the time he he stands leaning deck railing, time leaning on the the deck railing, or sits sits perched perched atop atop it, checking the night the it, checking the sea, sea, the the sails sails and and at at night the stars. When he he does does sleep he takes only bare deck, sleep he takes only brief brief naps naps lying lying on the the bare deck, huddled against a sack of coconuts. He has to stay awake as much as he against a sack of He has to stay he can to as well to monitor our speed speed and and heading, heading, as well as keep keep track track of of the the force and and direction of of the wind and force the wind and the the swell swell pattern. pattern.

When the the sky sky is is totally totally overcast and and the the moon isis either below below

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the too high to be be useful, the horizon or too high up up to useful, Mau looks looks to to the the trade winds and and the the ocean swells for winds for orientation. During During the the day day he he uses these these same cues, as well well as the the bearing bearing of of the the rising rising or setting sun, to to get get his his bearings. bearings. setting sun, This not for for the steady the the trade winds This isis not the amateur. However steady might be might be by by reputation, in in fact fact they they periodically periodically shift shift at at least least a few few degrees degrees to to one side side or the the other. other. Mau Mau watches for for these these shifts shifts by by constantly constantly checking checking wind wind direction against against the the swells. The The dominant trade trade wind wind swells striking striking the the canoe are steadier in in direction than than the winds; they the local local winds; they have have been been generated generated by by trades trades blowing blowing over thousands of of miles miles of of ocean ocecan stretching stretching to to the the northeast and and are not affected by by the the daily daily shifts shifts in in wind direction we experience. Reading Reading the the swells is is an art. art. Most Most of of us amateurs aboard the the canoe can make out out the the main trade trade wind wind swell and and also see that it interacts with a number of other swells coming also that it with a of coming

from from different directions. But we cannot really really separate out each each swell swell and and form form aa coherent picture picture of of all all the the swell swell patterns. Mau can. Although Although not at at all all given given to to showing showing off, off, today today he he took took the the

trouble to point out to to point to us how how five five separate swells, swells, each each with a different strength and different direction, strength and period, period, were striking striking the the canoe. Day steering by the sun is Day steering bv the is also also tricky. tricky. Because the the rising rising and and setting of the setting points points of the sun shift shift markedly markedly each each day day as we move from from the the northern hemisphere late late spring spring toward the the winter of of the the southern hemisphere, has to hemisphere, Mau has to recalibrate his his solar solar orientation daily daily by by checking checking each each dawn and and dusk dusk to to see where the the sun has has risen along the risen or set set along the points points of of his his star star compass. That That feat, feat, plus plus his his ability ability to to use the the sun as aa directional guide guide even when when it it is is high in in the high the sky, sky, comes naturally naturally to to Mau, Mau, although although not to to the the rest of of us. Mau’s Mau's ability ability in in solar solar navigation navigation is is even a a little little unusual on his his navigate before the home island. He He learned to to navigate the magnetic magnetic compass was introduced to to Satawal. Although Although all all Satawal navigators steer by the stars at night, those navigators who by the at night, those who learned their their craft craft after after Mau Mau rely rely on the the compass for for daytime daytime steering steering rather than than trying trying to to keep keep track track of of the the sun. Thus Thus when when those those few few masters the truly truly traditional be the of the last of he will the last will be gone, he Mau are gone, to Mau senior to navigators of of Satawal. navigaof Mau’s navigapart of only part and course setting setting are only Orientation and

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given any given at any tional repertoire. To To keep keep track where we are at of where track of tional time, as opposed calls heading, calls which we are heading, in which the direction in to the opposed to time, for other other skills. skills. for A the of the angle of the angle to measure the navigator uses aa sextant to A modern navigator and star time, and the exact time, him the give him to give stars, aa chronometer to and stars, sun and tables and to this information to to use this him to to enable him aids to other aids and other tables Or longitude. Or and longitude. of latitude and in terms of position in his exact position compute his

he of several electronic systems depending on radio may use one of he may beams from from land his fix his to fix land transmitters or navigational satellites to

position. way Mau can determine our position in in is no way position. There is terms of of latitude and he although he Indeed, although longitude coordinates. Indeed, and longitude is fixing of fixing idea of the idea of coordinates, the concept of the concept with the acquainted with is acquainted his degrees of of latitude above or below of so many degrees in terms of position in his position the and of of the meridian of of the longitude east or west of of longitude the equator and England, is alien to system. navigational system. his navigational to his totally alien is totally Greenwich, England, solely a deadis solely position is of our position track of keeping track of keeping way of Mau’s way reckoning of judgments of precise judgments exquisitely precise depends on exquisitely that depends reckoning one that speed and course made good. Estimates of speed and course made of speed good. speed and good are the the building All system. All any dead-reckoning system. of any building blocks of good but the most electronic of keep close track still keep of modern navigators still but the

of of a aid of the aid (with the fixes (with position fixes speed between position and speed of course and magnetic compass and the is the It is covered).). It to record distance covered log to and aa log way Mau uses this that to conceptualize our progress that this information to way is unusual. is so unusual, In to in relation to line in his progress line plots his his home waters Mau plots In his the picks an island he picks of aa “reference island.” First he the movements of well of sight his the course, between his of the side of to one side lies to that lies sight that out of well out canoe and and the of familiar horizon stars. points of setting points and setting rising and the rising Then, as he the is the it is that it imagines that he imagines his destination, he sails toward his he sails Then, reference island, the island “moves” As the that moves. As his canoe, that island, not his from the this marks the another, this to another, of one horizon star to bearing of the bearing from the completion of the vovage. Once the the voyage. of the of a predetermined segment of island has the all the stars, all the preselected horizon stars, all the has “moved” past all segments have has been acthe navigation has If the been traversed. If have been curately sight. in sight. be in the destination should therefore be curately performed, the Of the his canoe, not the is his it is that it well that full well Of course, Mau knows full

reference island, simply is simply plotting system is This mental plotting that moves. This island, that

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an ingenious ingenious conceptual conceptual device to to relate his his estimates of of speed speed and made good to a order to good to and course made a series of of horizon horizon stars in in order to break

the voyage into manageable the keeping track manageable segments for for keeping track of of progress en route.

This why Mau’s to apply reference-islandd plotting This is is why Mau’s attempt attempt to apply reference-islan plotting to such an impossible In his his home to our voyage seems like like such impossible task. task. In waters, trips trips between closely spaced atolls atolls average under 100 closely spaced 100 miles. Using Using five six horizon stars for for plotting, plotting, this this mcans miles. five or or six means to 20 miles long. only isis our voyage much much longer segments 10 10 to 20 miles long. Not Not only longer than those those Mau Mau isis used than to our used to, to, but but there there are few few islands parallel parallel to that can be course that be used used as reference islands. Mau isis thus forced to to thus forced choose not not single single islands but but whole archipelagoes parallel parallel to, to, but but some distance from, from, the the course line. For this this first from Hawaii line. For first leg leg from to the the doldrums, he says he employing the to he says he is is employing the Marshall Islands, Islands, aa lying 2,000 2,000 miles west of the course line. Micronesian archipelago archipelago lying miles of the line. Using five for plotting plotting this Using five horizon stars for this means segments averagaverag-

ing over 200 ing 200 miles miles in in length. length. Yet Yet Mau isis confident that that he he can keep keep track of track of the the segments. segments. After After traversing traversing the the fifth will be be at at fifth one we will the the doldrums, he says. Once Once out out of of the he will he savs. the doldrums he will be be using archipelago, the using aa second second archipclago, the Marquesas, Marquesas, hundreds of of miles miles to to the east east of of the the course line line from from the to Tahiti, plot our the the doldrums to Tahiti, to to plot for that that portion portion of of the the voyage. progress for David of dead reckoning. Like David Lewis follows aa Western system system of dead reckoning. Like

Mau Mau

he estimates he

our speed speed

(Lewis mentally (Lewis mentally times bubbles

moving down down the length of of the the canoe while just looks looks at at the moving the length while Mau just the

rushing past) past) and and course made made good. good. But But instead of of using sea rushing using reference islands islands and and horizon stars to break the into concepto break the trip trip into tual segments, segments, Lewis attempts to to transfer his his mental estimate of of tual Lewis attempts our progress into into latitude-longit latitude-longitude fixes. Each noon he estimates he ude fixes. Each where we are in of so so many many degrees degrees and and minutes north north of where in terms of of the equator equator and and west of of Greenwich. the The height height of of Polaris, North Star, Star, above above the the horizon The Polaris, the the North horizon gives gives Lewis aa fairly fairly accurate measure of of latitude. Its Its angle angle with with the the horizon corresponds almost almost exactly exactly to to the the observer’s latitude. Thus Thus horizon corresponds at at Honolulu, Honolulu, which which lies lies slightly slightly over 21 21 degrees degrees north of the the north of equator, a little equator, Polaris Polaris stands stands a little over 21 21 degrees degrees above above the the horizon. Through Through his his years years of of sailing sailing Lewis has to judge judge the the angle angle has learned learned to

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of aa star, star, without using of using any any instrument whatsoever, with with aa fair fair measure of of accuracy. Particularly Particularly with with Polaris Polaris low low on the the horizon he has has no hesitancy hesitancy about about calling calling its he its position position to within half half a degree. degree. But But Lewis has has no way way to to judge judge longitude longitude from from the the stars. That That requires requires aa chronometer or complicated electronic gear. gear. All All he he can do isis keep of our heading, heading, then then estimate how how much much leeway leeway do keep track track of and and current set set deflects us to to the the west to to come up up with an idea idea of of how how much easting easting we are making. making. The The most critical variable in in his his calculations is is the the current. Lewis has has no way way to to tell tell by by direct observation how strong strong it it is is flowing flowing westwards. Thus Thus he he readily readily that his his longitude admits that longitude figures, figures, unlike unlike those for for latitude, latitude, contain aa large large element of of guesswork. guesswork. Actually, there there seems little little need need for for Lewis to to calculate our Actually,

position each each noon so painstakingly, unless he position he anticipates that that the the Meotai will will lose us during lose track track of of us during aa storm or on some dark dark night. night.

His primary His primary task task is is toto document, step step by by step, step, exactly exactly how how Mau is guiding the canoe to Tahiti. is guiding the canoe to Mauss Mau’s navigation navigation of of Hokule‘a Hokule'a is is an experiment within an Can a noninstrument navigator use skills experiment. Can skills adapted adapted for for navigation between closely navigation closely spaced spaced atolls atolls in in a corner of of the the western Pacific to Pacific to guide guide a strange strange canoe over thousands of of miles of of unfamiliar eastern Pacific waters? We We thought thought so so when we recruited

Mau—providing he he could learn a good good portion portion of of what an ancient Polynesian Polynesian navigator navigator would have have known about the the route between especially about Tahiti and and Hawaii, and and especially about the the pattern of of prevailing prevailing winds and and currents. Imagine Imagine aa Tahitian navigator navigator many centuries ago ago who who has has sailed up up to to Hawaii, Hawaii, following following traditional navigational instructions. He He would certainly certainly know know his his way way home, home, both both from his his teachings and from teachings and from his his own experience of of sailing sailing from from Tahiti. In In comparison, Mau Mau isis at at aa great great disadvantage, neither knowing knowing the the traditional sailing sailing instructions nor having having had had the the personal personal experience sailing the perience of of sailing the route before. That That is is why why we have have tried tried to to provide Mau provide Mau with with the the same sort of of information—gleaned from from maps, star charts, charts, oceanographic reports reports and and interviews with with

yachtsmen—that aa traditional navigator would have have carried in in his his head. head.

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The plan plan was for for Lewis to with Mau, him The to work work closely closely with Mau, tutoring tutoring him in pattern of islands, winds winds and and currents along along the and in the the pattern of islands, the route and helping to calculate the at helping him him to the various star bearings bearings to to be be used used at each each stage stage of of the the voyage, including including alternates for for various wind wind and and current conditions. We We knew knew that that Lewis’s tutelage tutelage could not not entirely substitute for Mau’s lack of personal experience in eastern entirely for Mau's lack of personal in Pacific particularly since Lewis had Pacific waters, particularly had never sailed sailed over the the and therefore could not speak with route and not speak with firsthand knowledge. knowledge. However, we did did have have use of of the the planetarium planetarium at at Honolulu’s Bishop help bridge the experience experience gap. Bishop Museum to to help bridge the gap. By By setting setting the the desired dates and positions, we the planetarium planetarium projector projector for for the dates and could give could simulate simulate the the night night skies skies along along the the projected projected route to to give of the change as Mau aa feel feel for for how how the the appearance of the skies skies would would change

we sailed from from the the Northern to to the the Southern Hemisphere. Unfortunately this procedure did out as well this procedure did not work out well as planned. planned. Lewis and and Mau never did did become fast fast friends and and confidants. Although Although they they seemed to to hit hit it it off off at at first, first, tension soon developed developed between them. them. Mutual friends attributed this this to to proprofessional rivalry, rivalry, pointing pointing out that that Mau could could not not readily readily accept accept tutelage from a man who was not as expert a navigator as he, tutelage from who not expert a he, yet yet who had published published aa book on noninstrument navigation (based, who had (based, to partly on the to make matters worse, partly the testimony of of navigators navigators from from

a rival rival island). island). The The situation was even more complicated than than that. all the that. The The way way Lewis approached the the task, task, plus plus all the troubles that developed developed in that in Honolulu before departure, contributed to to their estrangement.

By By nature Lewis is is aa lone lone voyager, a a man who who enjoys enjoys sailing sailing alone alone in in a small small boat, boat, pitting pitting himself against against formidable natural

obstacles—as witness his his near-fatal attempt attempt to to sail sail singlehandedly around around Antarctica in in 1974-75, when when his his tiny tiny yacht yacht was rolled rolled over twice by by 60-foot-high 60-foot-high seas. Nonetheless, when when we were planning planning

the project Lewis was enthusiastic about the the prospect of of working working the project with large group group and with a large and of of having having the the opportunity to to supervise him to to brought him after II brought But soon after the navigational experiment. But the navigational into his study, his study, virtually retreated into Lewis virtually late 1975, in late 1975, Lewis Honolulu in

fellowship. his fellowship. part ofof his him as part provided him office provided an East-West Center office for her for prepare her and Hokule‘a and Hokule'a us help rebuild to asked help to Although asked Although on working on off begged working he off Mau, he begged well as work with Mau, work with the voyage as well the

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the pleading that busy preparing for the canoe, pleading that he he was too busy for the the navigation experiment and and that that he he was no good good with with his his hands. hands. The newly newly picked The picked crew were quick quick to to seize upon upon his his apparent reluctance to plus the to join join in in the the work, work, plus the tension between him him and and Mau, object of of their their scorn. To Mau, to to make make Lewis another object To them them he he

epitomized the ripping off off the the haole ripping the islanders, getting getting a generous fellowship eyes doing fellowship yet yet to to their their eyes doing little little for for it. it. II tried tried to to head head this this off by having having Lewis work off by work with with the the crew on navigation and and agree

to participate in to in the the preparation of of a post-voyage volume of of research findings findings to to be be jointly jointly authored by by a number of of project project including leading participants, including leading crewmen. But But by by then then the the situation was already tion already too too far far gone. gone. The The crew (or (or at at least least a vocal segment of of it) it) really really did did not want to to have have anything anything to to do do with Lewis, and he Lewis, and he in in turn thought thought it it an unprofessional waste of of time to work with to work with those those who who knew little little about navigation. All All this this served to further aggravate crew-leader conflict and to make served to and to Lewis withdraw more unto himself. During During those those last last months before departure departure we seldom seldom saw Lewis down at the canoe. Communication between him at the him and and Mau was minimal. It It took took Mau’s Mau’s nephew-in-law, Mike Mike McCoy, McCoy, to to get get the two talking—although that the that did did not happen happen until until three three days days before leaving leaving Maui! Mike, Mike, who who had had flown flown in in from from Micronesia to to see us off, off, had been shocked to learn upon arrival that, as he said had been to learn upon that, he said

with with only only aa little little exaggeration, “Lewis has has never sat down and and get together talked with with Mau!” Mike Mike then then virtually virtually forced them them to to get together to confer the navigational plan. to confer on the plan.

Over the the last days Mau Mau and have developed Over last few few days and Lewis have developed a formal routine of of daily daily consultation. Usually around noon Lewis Usually comes aft aft to with Mau on the and to to confer with the course and to discuss other other navigational matters. But the brevity brevity of But the of their their meetings meetings underlines the of any real warmth the lack lack of any rcal warmth between them. them. Mau seems lonely. lonely. He He seems to to need need to with someone with to talk talk with with whom he he would be be more at ease, ideally at ideally someone who who can tell from personal personal experience tell him him from experience about the route and and the about the the winds winds and and the the currents ahead. We have just the man aboard. We have just the aboard.

WF 17 No Problem No Problem May 5—Four days days out out (continued) May )

“No “No

problem.” problem.”

Rodo Rodo

Williams, Williams,

our

white-haired

Tahitian

used that often during during the the last in mariner, used that expression so so often last months in Honolulu. “How's it today, Rodo?” it today,

“No problem.” problem.” “No “The sails aren't ready yet. We We can’t sailing today.” today.” “The sails aren’t ready yet. can’t go go sailing “No problem.” “No problem.” And so on. For And so For practically practically any any situation Rodo had had those those words words

ready. translate a a common Tahitian expression that ready. They They translate that means, in don’t worry, worry, everything everything will will be be okay.” okay.” in effect, effect, “Take “Take it it easy, easy, don’t During before leaving, leaving, Rodo had taken taken to During that that troubled time time before Rodo had to pronouncing the the English English version version much much more pronouncing more frequently frequently than than II have ever heard the original original used used in in Tahiti. Tahiti. With his his “no “no problem” have heard the problem” 129 129

130 130

HOKULE‘A: uHokULE‘A:

The Way Way to to Tahiti The

approach, Rodo trying to approach, Rodo was deliberately trying to calm calm those who who were becoming upset as the the time for becoming more and and more upset for departure departure neared. neared. Hawaiians also also have have an expression that that carries the the same reassuring message as as the suring the Tahitian one. Kawika often often used used to to say say “no “no problem,” “no problem,” “no trouble,” or the the Hawaiian equivalent, equivalent, when we were working to the canoe ready. working to get get the ready. But But II cannot remember any any of of the the young crewmen following his lead. In fact, Kimo, after detailing young following his lead. In fact, Kimo, after detailing all our “problems” “problems” during all during his his dockside press press conference, then then denouncing what him was an unforgivably casual attitude denouncing what to to him them, ended his by saying, toward them, his tirade tirade by saying, “That’s the the biggest biggest word problem, no problem!” problem!” around here—no problem, Rodo is of the is our old old man of the sea. Countless voyages made South Pacific over the around the the South the last last thirty-five thirty-five years—in fishing fishing boats, trading schooners, yachts and even the warships of boats, trading yachts and the warships of Free France—have lined lined and and weathered his his craggy face. face. One One harrow-

ing experience twenty ing twenty years years ago ago turned his his hair hair snow white. That was when the night when he he spent spent the night swimming for for his his life, life, and and that that of of aa nine-year-old girl clinging nine-year-old girl clinging to to his his back, back, after after aa giant giant wave

capsized his his boat capsized boat and and threw them into into the the sea. But Rodo Rodo is is also also skippering aa yacht aa cheerful, cheerful, jaunty jaunty man by by nature. After After skippering yacht up up from from Tahiti last year, Rodo quickly became a favorite around the Tahiti last year, quickly a the local local yacht club, the you had had to have out yacht club, the man you to have out fishing fishing with with you, you, or over to to your your house to to help help prepare a Tahitian feast. feast. His His popularity was evident when, when, upon pulling out upon pulling out of of Honolulu Harbor, Harbor, we were greeted by greeted by scores of of yachts yachts that that had had sailed sailed out to to see us off. off. It It was Rodo, from Hawaii, Hawaii, that Rodo, not anyone from that the the yachtsmen yachtsmen hailed hailed and and wished aa good good voyage. Rodo Rodo is is my my confidant, the the only only one aboard aboard the the canoe to to whom II can easily easily turn for for counsel, counsel, or just just to to share share a joke joke or aa random thought. thought. We We have have aa common bond: bond: Tahitian, Tahitian, aa language language II learned during years’ residence on Tahiti and during several years’ and neighboring islands doing my doctoral dissertation. We both doing research for for my both enjoy enjoy leanleaning back against the railing, chatting ing back against the deck deck railing, chatting away away in in Tahitian, Tahitian,

talking talking about fishing, fishing, Tahiti or just just about anything anything to to get get our minds off minds off the the problems problems of of the the long long voyage ahead. “You have forgotten forgotten meeting “You have meeting me in in Tahiti, Tahiti, haven’t haven't your” you?” Rodo days out of Rodo asked me a few few days of Maui. II had had to to admit that that

No Problem No

131 131

although although when he in Honolulu his he first first arrived in face seemed his face familiar, I could familiar, I could not really remember meeting not really meeting him in Tahiti. him in Tahiti.

grinned. Rodo grinned. “You paddled with Manu Ura, of That isis one of club. That my canoe club. Ura, my with Manu “You paddled the reasons I decided to go with you.” to go with you.” I the Then my Tahitian research in in starting my Then II remembered. When starting 1961, club and and racing club Ura canoe racing the Manu Ura joined the ambitiously joined 1961, II ambitiously

paddled the Bastille their sixteen-men double-canoes atat the of their in one of paddled in Day club sponsors, and and his his son Michel the club of the Rodo was one of Day races. Rodo had been been one of of my my teammates. had Rodo joined receiving upon receiving back upon project several months back joined our project Rodo set to work on aa to work he sct Although he fellowship. Although an East-West Center fellowship. number of special projects of fishing fishing making aa collection of such as making projects such of special number lures out of shell, bone bone and following traditional hair following dog hair and dog pearl shell, of pearl lures Tahitian models, models, Rodo’s main task for his of job of his job to prepare for task was to piloting us through mentally This involved mentally the Tuamotu Islands. This through the piloting us reviewing all had made he had trading voyages he and trading fishing and many fishing the many all the through charts, studying available charts, and studying atolls and low atolls of low labvrinth of this labyrinth through this to engrave upon his mind the exact location of the islands and the and the of the the his to wind and that swirl swirl through through them. and currents that Rodo had been born have practiced to have late to born two generations too late had been Rodo traditional, noninstrument navigation. Fifty years he when he ago, when Fifty years ago, was doing had Emory had Tahiti, Kenneth Emory in Tahiti, doing archaeological research in seen the the days the In those days navigation tradition. In old navigation this old of this end of tail end the tail Tuamotuans used and schooners small cutters and in small to Tahiti in sail to to sail used to

loaded down with they were meat), which they (dried coconut meat), with copra (dried bringing goods. and other trade goods. soap and cloth, soap buy cloth, to buy in order to sell in to sell bringing to It any other navigation had a compass or any who had captain who It was a rare captain instruments then. to had to they had however, they port authorities, however, clear port To clear then. To stand inspection by told So, as Kenneth told French authorities. So, the French by the us in the captains for home the leaving for to leaving prior to just prior day, just class one day, in class would rent compass, charts and obliging gear from obliging required gear and other required inspecChinese merchants—and promptly return them once the inspecthe Chinese merchants—and promptly with the Tuamotus, with for the sail for set sail tion they would set tion was over. Then they only guide them. to guide the stars to only the from originally from family originally seafaring family Rodo stems from from aa Tuamotu seafaring generations for There for generations of Tahiti. east of Katiu, 300 miles east atoll 300 small atoll Katiu, a small

12 132

HOKULE‘A:

The to Tahiti The Way Way to

his forebears were renowned seafarers, and and there there also his also an American sailor named Williams married into adopted his sailor named into the the family, family, which adopted his name. Rodo’s grandfather was the of the the the last last traditional navigator of clan, captain to clan, and and was a famous trading trading schooner captain to boot. boot. In In the the he had tried to to teach teach his young grandson 1930s he had tried his young grandson how how to to navigate navigate by old way, by the the stars the the old way, but but aa teenage teenage Rodo Rodo could could muster no interest in in what what seemed aa hopelessly hopelessly antique antique knowledge knowledge out of of aa

primitive primitive past. past. However, when Rodo Rodo later went toto sea, he he did did learn how how to navigate in in the the quasi-modern quasi-modern way then employed employed by by learn to navigate way then of island island sailors, way that that involved use of of aa newer generation of sailors, a way compass and charts but and charts but relied relied heavily heavily on finely finely honed skills skills of of judging and wind, judging current and wind, and and their their effect effect on aa boat’s boat’s course and and speed. speed. Upon Rodo had down for for aa long Upon leaving leaving Maui, Maui, Rodo had settled down long trip. trip. His not come until His main job job would would not until we neared the the Tuamotus, so so he relax, stand his his watches and he thought thought he he could could relax, and fish fish aa bit bit until until we were well below the equator. Mau Mau fascinated him; him; as as we sailed well below the equator. sailed along Rodo first Rodo’s along Rodo began began watching watching our navigator at at work. work. At At first interest was casual, casual, something something to his curiosity to satisfy satisty his curiosity and and perhaps perhaps

make up up for forty for his his having having spurned spurned his his grandfather’s grandfather’s tutelage tutelage forty years earlier. However, since we started tracking years carlier. tracking southeast against against the in Mau the trades, trades, Rodo’s interest in

has has intensified and and become

more serious.

Rodo he has has to Rodo now realizes that that he to understand how how Mau navigates gates if if the the two are to to cooperate in in guiding guiding Hokule‘a Hokule'a past past islands and reefs that lie along the way to Tahiti. More to the point, and reefs that lie along the way to to the point, Rodo Rodo has has discovered what aa tremendous handicap handicap Mau Mau is is operating operating under of the under because of of his his lack lack of of firsthand knowledge knowledge of the sea road road ahead. Rodo raised with me today all ahead. When Rodo raised this this concern with today he he was all business. Gone was his his “no “no problem” approach. “Mau isis troubled,” Rodo does not “Mau Rodo exclaimed worriedly. worriedly. “He “He does not know the way!” way!” know the Rodo may may be be given given to to dramatics, dramatics, but Mau truly at aa great Rodo but Mau truly is is at great disadvantage. Evidently Evidently he he has has not not learned enough enough from from his his brief brief sessions with Lewis to to be be as as confident as he should about the with Lewis he should about the exact configuration configuration of of the the islands islands ahead ahead and and of of the shifting pattern the shifting pattern of winds and and currents along along the the route. of winds route.

No No Problem

133: 133

“Can you you help help him?” II asked asked Rodo. “He “He likes likes you and and trusts You have you. You you. have already already sailed sailed this this route, route, and and you you know all all the the islands around Tahiti. him what is Tahiti. You You talk talk to to him him and and tell tell him is ahead.” Rodo agreed said he Rodo agreed and and said he would would start tomorrow.

May 6—Five days May days out out

This morning This morning Rodo Rodo approached apploached me me with with aa cheery cheery “no “no probproblem,” by aa startling, lem,” followed by startling, “I “I have have a map. map. II can use it it to to show Mau the he pulled the way.” way. " Then he pulled out a National Geographic map of of the the Pacific. Rodo had had forgotten forgotten that that maps maps were forbidden on the the

voyage, as apparently had had the vovage, the magazine photographer who who so carelessly brought this this one along. along. car elessl) brought “Rodo,” I said upon recovering “Rodo,” 1 said upon recovering from from my my surprise. surprise. “Maps “Maps are are taboo on this voyage.” this voyage.” With that map from from his his hands and With that II took took the the map and threw threw it it backwards over my my head head so that that the the wind wind would would catch catch it it and and carry carry it astern. Now it was Rodo’s turn to be startled. He stared disit Now it to be He disbelieving as the believing as the map map twisted and and turned in in the the wind and and then then plopped down in our wake, in the plopped down in wake, wondering wondering what what in the world world had had gotten explained that gotten into his his friend. II explained that because of of the the navigation

experiment we could not carry carry maps aboard. “You don’t need need a

map anyway, know the the islands. islands. You can just map anyway,” II added. “You “You know just tell tell Mau about about them.” Later the day Later in in the day II spied spied the the two two together together at at the the stern stern rail. rail. Rodo Rodo was sketching—much as one would would scratch out a pattern pattern on the the sand—a crude crude diagram diagram showing showing the the relative positions positions of of Hawaii, the the Marquesas, the the Tuamotus and and Tahiti, Tahiti, and and the the way way the the winds and and currents shifted shifted as you you move south. south. As As II approached closely, Rodo began more closely, began telling telling Mau that that south south of of the the doldrums the wind wind would shift the shift around so that that itit came from from the the southeast instead of of the the northeast as now, forcing forcing us on a course that that could could take of Tahiti. take us to to the the west of Tahiti. Mau, Mau, who who isis used used to to aa southwesterly wind wind shift shift immediately below below the the doldrums in in his his home waters, skeptical. was skeptical. “How you you know? You got key You got key to to wind?” he he asked Rodo Rodo challengingly. challengingly.

134 134

HOKULE‘A: HOKULE‘A:

The Way toto Tahiti Tahiti The Way

Rodo Rodo smiled smiled and and replied replied that that he he had had made made the the trip trip once once before before and had seen the shift with with his and had the wind wind shift his own eyes. eyes. Mau then then asked asked if if and Rodo replied Lewis had had made the the trip, trip, and replied that that Lewis had had only only read about about it and said, with aa note of read it in in books. Mau chuckled and said, still still with of skepticism in his voice, “Okay. I follow you.” skepticism in his voice, “Okay. I you.”

18 18 Little Night Night Music AA Little Music May 6—Five days days out (continued May ( continued)) Now that started on the the that we have have left left Hawaiian waters and and started long tack tack southeast to feel more relaxed. During long to the the doldrums we feel During the day cards, read read or just talk. Rodo Rodo tells tells some amazing the day we play play cards, just talk. amazing tales, like the one about the time he sailed with a gang of tales, like the about the time he sailed with a gang of men toto an uninhabited atoll atoll to to harvest coconuts and make copra—only copra—only and make to be with a mutiny mutiny fomented by hired hand hand who who declared to be faced faced with by aa hired himself to be aa kahuna possessed with with knowledge knowledge of Spanish himself to be kahuna possessed of where where Spanish pirates had island. pirates had buried treasure on the the island. Even Sam Kalalau, cowboy from from Maui, will open open up Even quiet quiet Sam Kalalau, the the cowboy Maui, will up Unfortunately for for me and my watch mates, Sam Sam isis ifif encouraged. encouraged. Unfortunately and my

on Lyman’s Lyman’s watch, watch, although have stayed stayed up up to although at at times II have to hear hear him him spinning tales tales of of his his days days as aa Marine fighting fighting Japanese troops inin spinning Japanese troops the jungles of the the Solomon Islands in in World War War II, or expoundexpoundthe jungles of II, or ing on the fine points of cock fighting, one of his current pastimes. ing the fine points of cock fighting, of his pastimes.

Playing with with the the animals also also helps helps pass pass the the time of of day. day. Playing Hoku (hoh-koo, (hoh-koo, star), star), our little little Hawaiian dog dog that that isis sub-Fox 135 135

136

HOKULE‘A:

The Way The Way to to Tahiti

in size, size, has Terrier in has her her sea legs legs now—although we still still keep keep her her she will slip off on aa leash lcash for for fear fear she will slip off the the deck deck into the the sea. She She is is aa shy shy creature, aa result result of of an effort effort by by the the Honolulu Zoo Zoo to to breed breed

back to to the the type back type of of dog dog that that Hawaiians once kept kept for for food. In In aa way way Maxwell, Maxwell, our lively lively pig, pig, isis more fun. fun. He He will will eat eat anything anything we give him, and more—even his cage. However, from give him, and his cage. from the the point point of of

view of of authenticity, he he isis entirely entirely inappropriate. We had had a small black Polynesian black Polynesian pig pig and and aa pair pair of of gorgeously gorgeously plumed plumed Polynesian Polynesian jungle for us at jungle fowl] fowl set set aside aside for at the the Zoo—until the the Humane Society Society the week before we left intervened the left Honolulu. Tommy Tommy then then managed to managed to get get fairly fairly appropriate replacements from from Kauai, Kauai, only only

to them when the to lose lose them the aircraft transporting them to to Honolulu slewed off the grass airstrip and crashed into the brush, off the grass airstrip and into the brush, allowing allowing the the animals to to escape. In In desperation, Tommy Tommy grabbed grabbed what what animals he gray domestic chickens he could could find: find: aa pair pair of of mottled gray and pig, complete and an outrageously haole haole pig, complete with with white hair hair and and pink pink skin. skin. At not much much to At night night there there isis not to do do except except trade off off steering, steering, watch the and chat—while trying watch the stars and trying to to stay stay awake till till the the change of the watch. The early evenings are nice. Everyone is change of the The early evenings Everyone is on deck deck then, then, feeling feeling satisfied after after eating eating the the second, second, and and last, last, meal meal of the the day, day, and enjoying the the thought of and enjoying thought that that one more day’s dav’s sailing sailing putting us one day day closer isis over, putting closer toto Tahiti. That That is is when Kawika and two crewmen have and have lately lately taken to to holding holding impromptu concerts, strumming their and ukuleles and certs, their guitars guitars and and singing singing Hawaiian

songs. songs. The The two crewmen, William “Billy” “Billy” Richards and and George George “Boogie” Kalama, “Boogie” Kalama, are at at their their best best when performing. Billy, Billy, aa handsome young young part-Hawaiian with with black, black, shoulder-length hair, hair, family—his mother has comes from from a musical family—his has aa hula hula troupe—and adept on the guitar with isis equally equally adept the guitar with Hawaiian and and haole haole tunes. Back at to work on the Back at Honolulu Harbor, Harbor, Billy, Billy, who who was paid paid to the

canoe as aa boatbuilder’s helper, helper, used used to to entertain the the others down at the at the canoe with with his pleasant his guitar guitar and and pleasant singing singing voice. But he he had never been had job, play been content just just to to do do his his job, play music and and enjoy enjoy his his popularity. popularity. Billy, Billy, a part-time part-time community

college college student before before

A Night Music A Little Night

137 137

pushed him him forward as an ideal Kimo pushed ideal crewman, was was definitely definitely Kimo’s man, his foremost protégé his protégé¢ in in all all the the protesting and and foot foot dragging dragging before before departure. departure. It It was Billy, Billy, for for example, example, who who had had so vigorously championed Kimo at vigorously championed at that that last last confrontation on the the beach at Maui just before the departure ceremony. beach at Maui just the departure

Boogie big, heavy Boogie isis aa big, heavy Hawaiian—a good-looking man despite despite his large dark eyes and his bulk—whose lively lively face, face, set off off by by large dark eyes and wavy

N

x

j

:

Boogie steering steering Boogie

black hair, can look black hair, look impishly impishly jolly jolly one moment, devilishly devilishly malevolent the lent the next. Although Although nominated to to the the crew by by Kimo, Kimo, Boogie Boogie in his his inner circle. In was not in In fact, fact, we hardly hardly ever saw Boogie Boogie down at at the the canoe those those last last months when there there was so much work to to be work be done. done. And, And, when when he he did did show up, up, his his major major contribution was in providing entertainment—cracking jokes tion in providing jokes and and expertly expertly picking his guitar in in the picking his guitar the distinctly distinctly Hawaiian slack-key slack-key style. style. That That is why he he is with us now—as aa morale builder by is why is sailing sailing with by popular popular demand of of the the crew. Boogie Boogie was slated slated to to sail sail back back on the the return return

138 138

HOKULE‘A:

The Way Way to The to Tahiti

list at last the last at the the crew list put on the only put this one, and and was only trip, not not this trip, hand, need an extra hand, did not need Although we did minute to replace Kimo. Although to replace

placate those to placate certainly not so heavy had wanted to heavy a one, Kawika had certainly

by acceding firing by their to their acceding to Kimo’s firing demands to spirits. up their spirits. keep up to keep along to Boogie come along to have Boogie

crewmen crewmen

disgruntled disgruntled

over

Kawika is the does not command the he does that he painfully aware that is painfully respect Boogie, whose someand Boogie, Billy and crew—especially Billy the crew—especially of the respect of times cutting is That is hostility. That their hostility. of their depth of the depth cutting remarks reveal the why he is evening the evening in the down in sit down the three can sit that the delighted that is so delighted why he and play music together. evening concerts are rare moments Their evening together. Their and play of who of us who the rest of all the for all and for them and of them three of the three unity—for the of unity—for enjoy the in the stay in will stay that conflict will hope that listening—giving Kawika hope enjoy listening—giving background for the the rest of the voyage. of the background for Kawika and harmony in harmony together in play together the two crewmen can play and the

but in delight in Boogie delight and Boogie Billy and they have different musical tastes. Billy but they playing playing

modern

songs, songs,

some

of which of which

are

not

in in Kawika’s

repertoire. The telling. “Waimanalo of these are telling. of one of lyrics of The lyrics Blues” is a plaintive song of protest that sums up up what many plaintive song of protest that Blues” is Hawaiians think lyrics express English lyrics Its English change. Its about modern change. think about the the suburban Hawaiian from the youth from of aa Hawaiian youth feelings of the feelings community of the all the and all high rises and against tourism, high of Waimanalo against other ruining their young Hawaiians as ruining by young other developments seen by islands and lifestyle. and their lifestyle. Kawika, too, songs exolder Hawaiian songs mostly older his favorites, mostly has his too, has

cept Hokulea™).). Hokulea” (“Canoe Hokule‘a” simply “Wa‘a Hokule‘a” for one entitled simply cept for It the occasion Kawika, on the and Kawika, the canoe, and to honor the It was composed to of Hawaiian-language radio only Hawaiian-language his appearance on Hawaii’s only of his program to newly composed, Although newly project. Although the canoe project. explain the to explain the the of the him of it reminds him says it song sounds old-fashioned. Kawika says the song songs he up on remote Niihau he was growing up to hear when he used to he used Island—which makes sense because one of who the musicians who of the composed the music is his cousin from Niihau. The man who wrote The is his the

the of colleague of is a colleague radio program, is the radio host on the the host and the lyrics, and the lyrics,

mine and language poet and part-Hawajian poet the University, aa young part-Hawaiian at the mine at professor. professor. Kawika often plays plays “Wa‘a “Wa'a Hokule‘a” Hokule'a” on his his ukulele, ukulele, singing voice. rich baritone voice. his rich in his lyrics in the Hawaiian lyrics singing the

No No Problem

139 139

‘Ua ‘Ua ‘ike “tke maka maka makou Ia Hokule‘a Ia Waa kaulua nani nani Wa'a Mehe manu ii ka holo kai kai ka holo

We for ourselves We have seen for Hokule‘a The beautiful double-canoe The Like Like a bird bird sailing sailing at at sea

Ua poho poho na pe‘a pe‘a Ua II ke ke aheahe makani II ka ka hoe hoe aa na akamai

The out The sails sails billow out In fair winds In the the fair winds Steered on course By paddlers By the the expert expert paddlers

II ke ke ala ala oo Kahiki Ka holo Hokule‘a Ka holo Hokule'a Na hoku oo na lani lani Na Kou kia‘i Kou kiai alaka‘i alaka’i

On way to to Tahiti Tahiti On the the way The The Hokule’a Hokulea sails sails The of the The stars of the heavens Guide you on course you

Ho‘okahi no kia Ho'okahi kia'i Nana no ee malama Ma loko loko no oo kona mana Ma Na Hawaii Na holokai Hawai'i

There isis only only one guardian guardian He He will will take take care of of you you Within his his power Are the sailors of Are the of Hawaii

‘ia mai Puana ‘ia mai Wa‘a Wa'a Hokule‘a ‘O makou pu pu me ‘oe ‘oe ‘O II ka ho% mai mai ka holo holo aa ho't

This song This is is our song For the Hokule‘a canoe For the We will you will be be with you On Tahiti*® On your your trip trip to to and and from Tahiti®

Ho‘okele ia aa kupono kupono Ho'okele ia

by Larry Larry Kimura, *¢ All rights reserved. Words by All rights Koyama. Haunani Apoliona Apoliona and and Lance Koyama.

music by by Lolena Nicholas,

19 19 Weather Helm Weather Helm May 7—Six days days out out May

Last night night 25-knot gusts gusts made it it almost impossible impossible to to keep keep the the canoe on course. Sometimes more than than one of of us had had to to man the the steering steering sweep to to hold hold it it deep deep enough enough in in the the water to to keep keep the the canoe off off the the wind. Hokule‘a is is designed designed to to have have aa slight slight weather

helm—to have a natural tendency tendency to to round up up into the the wind, wind, which must be be counteracted by by the the steering steering sweep to to keep keep her her sailing sailing straight straight to to windward. In In the the last last day day or so the the weather helm has has been been getting getting fierce; fierce; at at times last last night night three three of of us had had to to

wrestle the the big big 18-foot-long sweep. Whenever we lost lost control the the bow would quickly quickly round up up into wind. Then, into the the wind. Then, as the the angle angle of of the the sails sails to to the the wind became

too acute, the the sails sails would collapse collapse into a chaos of of wildly wildly flapping flapping canvas, and the canoe would slow and the slow and and then then stop stop dead in in the the water. 140 140

Weather

Helm

141 141

It It took took everyone on watch to to get get her her moving moving again again by by rowing rowing the the stern around and and backwinding the the foresail. These These unwanted maneuvers are hard hard on the the sails and the booms, sails and the booms, and and make us lose lose

precious miles of of easting. easting. This Douglas “Dukie” Kuahulu was parThis morning morning crewman Douglas particularly ticularly worried over the the increased weather helm helm and and what what our manhandling manhandling might might be be doing doing to to the the steering steering rig, rig, his his pride pride and and joy. joy. When Hokule‘a first sailed with steering Hokulea first sailed we tried tried to to control her her with steering

paddles (but not lashed) lashed) perpendicularly against paddles held held (but against the the side side of the in the of the hull hull in the same manner outrigger outrigger canoes are steered. That That worked light airs. in heavy worked fine fine in in light airs. But But in heavy weather the the strain of of keeping the wind snapped keeping the the big big canoe off off the snapped paddle paddle after paddle, paddle,

and swells had had a nasty the paddle and passing passing swells nasty habit of of wrenching wrenching the paddle from the steersman’s grip. grip. Although from the Although II had had earlier developed developed a lashed steering steering sweep sweep for for Nalehia based on old old drawings, drawings, our young considered it young and and proud proud watermen sailing sailing Hokule‘a Hokule’a considered it a clumsy crutch and went on wrestling clumsy crutch and wrestling loose loose steering steering paddles—and paddles—and getting their fingers and their getting their fingers mashed and their heads heads bashed by by the the flailing flailing paddle paddle handles for for their their trouble. It It took took paunchy, paunchy, gray-haired Dukie, Dukie, aa senior “beach captain” captain” atat Waikiki who who earns his his living living steering down the steering tourist-laden canoes down the waves, to to make the the change. change. Apparently not at Apparently at all all worried about his his muscular image image as a

steersman, Dukie stepped stepped in in after after the the swamping and and developed our present present rig, rig, which consists of of the the long long steering steering sweep mounted between the the afterdeck and and the the port port hull,” hull,” lashed loosely loosely that it be easily toto aa crossbeam crossheam so that it can be easily manipulated but but cannot loose. break loose. By what the By light light of of day day we could could see what the strain was doing doing to to the the steering gear. made from steering gear. The The shaft shaft of of the the sweep, made from the the trunk of of aa young ironwood tree, was taking on an alarming bend. The young tree, taking alarming The wood wood where the the sweep was lashed to to the the crossbeam to to give give it it

fixed fulcrum point the pressure. a fixed point was beginning beginning to to split split under the to patch the damage, While Dukie worked to patch up up the damage, we started surveying the to see what ing the canoe to what could be be throwing throwing the the steering steering so far far off. off. ~ * This °This applies applies when when on the the port port tack. tack. When on the the other other tack, tack, the the port port sweep deck and the starboard sweep goes action. isis secured on deck and the goes into action.

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Steering Steering sweep positions positions

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Helm

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Somehow the the balance between the the sails sails and and the the hulls hulls must have been kilter. Designing have been thrown out out of of kilter. Designing the the canoe to to have have a slight locating the sails so that slight weather helm helm meant locating the sails that the the geometrigeometrical cal center of of wind wind force force pushing pushing against against them them was slightly slightly aft aft of of the of the hulls to the center of of resistance of the hulls to leeway leeway movement caused by the wind by the wind push. push. Over the the last last day day or so, so, we theorize, these these points have become widely points have widely separated, separated, either either because the the sails sails have aft or the have shifted shifted aft the weight weight distribution has has changed, changed, forcing forcing the and elevating the bows bows deeper deeper into into the the water and elevating the the sterns. That That is is

why steering sweep (which why we had had to to shove shove the the steering (which works on a principle entirely different from a rudder ) so deep principle entirely from a rudder) deep into the the water: to change change the profile of to the underwater profile of the the hulls hulls enough enongh to to shift shift their their center of of resistance aft aft and and thus thus bring bring the the forces acting acting on the the sails hulls into into line. sails and and the the hulls line. To remedy remedy this this we first To first tried tried shifting shifting food food sacks sacks and and other other items aft lighten the the bow weigh down the the stern. Then aft to to hvhten bow and and weigh Then we tried the masts forward. Each helped tried raking raking the helped aa little, little, but but even together they were not enough to take all of the heavy together they not enough to take all of the heavy weather helm out. Finally Finally Dave Lyman helm out. Lyman hit hit on the the true cause of of the the heavy heavy weather helm: pent up in the the closed compartments at helm: water pent up in at the the head of head of each hull hull was weighing weighing down the the bows, bows, changing changing the the underwater profile to make profile of of the the hulls hulls to make them them pivot pivot strongly strongly into into the wind. the wind. Once Lyman Lyman figured figured that that out, out, he he and and aa crewman grabbed grabbed aa

brace and and bit, bit, went forward and and drilled through through the the plywood plywood bow compartments from the next combulkheads separating the the bow from the partments aft (which, unlike the the sealed sealed bow aft (which, bow compartments, could

be entered through through a hatch). be hatch). Upon Upon drilling drilling through through they they hit hit a gusher, first in gusher, first in one hull hull and and then then the the other. other. Water from from head head seas had been been slowly slowly leaking leaking through through where the had the lashing lashing lines lines penepene-

bow compartments and trated the the bow and had had apparently built built up up when the small drain drain holes of the the small holes at at the the base base of the bulkheads became clogged. clogged. Now that that the the bow bow compartments have have been drained, and and the the bailed out, out, the water bailed the lightened lightened bows are riding riding over the the oncoming oncoming

swells instead of plowing through through them. With everyof ponderously plowing thing back back in in balance, balance, it thing it has has once more become an enjoyable, enjoyable, to handle the one-man job job to the sweep and and keep keep the the canoe on course. course.

20 20 Andrew Sharp Sharp Nights Nights May week out May 8—One week out

Last night Last night was very very cloudy, cloudy, like like the the previous two or three nights, with aa high almost totally nights, with high overcast almost totally blanketing blanketing the the sky. sky. The The

horizon ahead was opaque to to any any navigational stars, stars, and and only only occasionally did did a star peep peep through through the the overcast elsewhere in in the the heavens. II have have dubbed these these cloudy cloudy nights nights “Andrew Sharp Sharp nights” of Polynesian nights” after that that arch arch critic of Polynesian voyaging and and naviganavigation. Maybe Sharp tion. Maybe Sharp was not not so far far off off when he he claimed that that the the ancient navigators navigators would be be socked in in night night after after night. night. II had had always put always put this this down down to to his his prejudice, prejudice, and and to to the the fact fact that that he he was used to the cloudy his native New Zealand rather than used to the cloudy skies skies of of his than the fabled clear skies the skies of of tropical tropical Polynesia. Polynesia. But But now II have have to to admit far we have had more cloudy admit that that so far have had cloudy than than clear weather, weather, and that and that good good star nights nights have have lately lately been been few few and and far far between.

This has Mau. With no horizon stars visible This has not stopped stopped Mau. ahead or astern, he ahead he can still still orient himself by by any any stars that that might might

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like sky is for much much of the time, time, he like last last night, night, the the sky is totally totally overcast for of the he can keep the wind and studying studying keep track track of of our heading heading by by reading reading the wind and the the swells. On these these cloudy cloudy nights Mau also also finds in demand On nights Mau finds himself in demand as aa

human the change of watch. (We have stowed all all our human clock clock to to call call the change of ( We have wristwatches in in aa locked locked box box because of the navigation experiexperiof the With an accurate timepiece timepiece and and some ingenious ingenious observament. With tions and and calculations, it it would would be to get idea of tions be possible possible to get aa fair fair idea of the dav have no trouble using the sun our position.) position.) During During the day we have using the to time. Besides, Besides, in in the really cares to estimate time. the daytime daytime no one really whether one watch is cut short short and and the long. But is cut the other other runs long. But at at night, for each each night, when when everyone isis anxious to to sleep, sleep, itit seems natural for watch team to try to watch short, short, either consciously or watch to try to cut cut their their watch either consciously unconsciously, by time and and declarunconsciously, by overestimating the the passage of of time ing their four four hours hours are up. up. On On clear nights there ing that that their clear nights there can be be no

dispute, for we can just the stars. They degrees dispute, for just look look atat the They move 15 15 degrees every hour degrees divided by by twenty-four hours), hours), aa disdisevery hour (360 (360 degrees tance that gauged roughly roughly by by sighting, that can be be gauged sighting, with with arm outand hand hand open, between the the spread spread of of your stretched and your vertically vertically aligned and forefinger. forefinger. But But on aa night night like like last such aligned thumb and last night night such useless. aa method was useless, That isis when of when the the That when Mau becomes the the supreme arbiter of change should be Last night after our watch watch had had change of of watch watch should be called. called. Last night after been duty for what to sleepy minds must have been on duty for what to our sleepy have been been four four hours, with the hours, someone anxiously anxiously went over to to our navigator navigator with the question. crucial question. “Mau, midnight midnight yet?” yet?” “Mau, Mau, at the the inordinate Mau, hiding hiding the the amusement he he must have have felt felt at placed in in his his judgment, judgment, squinted squinted into into the trust placed the blank blank overcast and and replied authoritatively (and (and with a straight face ),),“No, “No, II think think five five replied with a straight face minutes to.” to.”

No stars visible visible last also meant that that extra care had to be No last night night also had to be taken steering. steering. Fortunately Fortunately we had steady trade wind of of 10-12 10-12 had aa steady trade wind knots to to steer by. knots by. curves the canvas curves where the at where Look at the particularly at sails, particularly the sails, up at Look up

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steering sweep the steering pull the slowly pull Then slowly airfoil. Then form an airfoil. outward toto form slow. starts toto slow. canoe the and the luff and up until begins toto luff foresail begins the foresail until the up that At that luffing stops. the luffing until the stops. At Then back down until the sweep back Then ease the speed sails begin fully and and the picks up point up speed the canoe picks begin toto draw fully the sails point the again, that you indicating that optimum wind wind course. sailing an optimum you are sailing again, indicating Once satisfied that that the the sails working at at maximum efficiency, efficiency, sails are working you can switch attention to thin strips of cloth cloth strips of the thin telltales, the the telltales, to the you tied to the the rigging rigging that much easier to to watch than the than the that are so much tied to fix in do isis fix into the up into foresail arching arching up the darkness. All All you you have have to to do in

your the angle angle of of the the sails drawing sails are drawing when the the telltales when mind the your mind well, then raising or lowering the sweep keep the the to keep sweep to lowering the by raising then steer by well, angle angle constant. It and the the wind able to to steer be able to be wind to the canoe and for the fecl for takes aa feel It takes without guiding of the taking avoid taking the men avoid follow. Some of to follow. guiding stars to turns altogether, altogether, or give give up their way allow and allow way and lose their they lose when they up when the running wild wild downwind on aa southwest course. to start running the canoe to have had Even after had in in steering steering wind courses the experience II have all the after all night II felt last night on Nalehia to felt her windward performance, last test her to test myself becoming by an totally surrounded by when totally becoming disoriented when myself

impenetrable overcast. My the canoe was that the gut reaction was that My gut

se circles g counterclockwi was that II was turning ever-tightening counterclockwise and that circles and turning inin ever-tightenin powerless to control her. her. powerless to the canoe way the the way by the the case by be the could not be this could knew this II knew continued to to lope rhythm: the same rhythm: with the the oncoming swells with lope over the way first bow would rise, and the tilt gently gently one way the canoe would tilt rise, and the bow first the and of aa swell swell face of the face up the obliquely up she climbed obliquely other as she the other then the and then and slid down down its the from the sailor from If II was aa canoe sailor back. If its back. then slid and then Marshall Islands, literally they literally of Micronesia where they Islands, an area of navigate by maintainthe canoe on course by keeping the swells, keeping the swells, by the navigate by ing that same steady pitching and have rolling would have and rolling of pitching rhythm of steady rhythm ing that been still could still rthythm, II could that rhythm, feel that though II could feel But even though easy. But been easy. not shake in circles. going around in the canoe was going that the the illusion that shake the

Finally, trick applying Mau’s trick after applying to settle down after able to Finally, IT was able

telltales, and telltales, sails and the sails at the staring at Stop staring wind. Stop the wind. feeling the literally feeling of literally of and start start trusting trusting the the feel feel of of the the wind in and in your your face: face: be be your your own telltale. By By turning turning your your head head from from side side to to side side to to test the the wind streaming streaming by cheeks by your your you you can locate the the exact direction of of

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the Once the the wind wind isis flowing flowing equally equally past both cheeks you the flow. flow. Once past both you are literally literally facing the wind. at the facing the wind. Then, Then, set set the the canoe sailing sailing at the proper wind angle as and turn proper wind angle as judged judged by by the the sails sails or telltales, telltales, and

your head so that facing into into the wind. Keep your that you you are facing the wind. Keep your your head at angle, relax, by the feel of at that that fixed fixed angle, relax, and and steer by the feel of the the wind wind on your your cheeks. Once II had had beaten the feeling produced the the disorienting feeling produced by by the overcast through the wind, through trusting trusting in in the wind, there there remained only only one thing thing disturbing about last last night: night: aa conversation with with aa fellow steersman. steersman.

21 vad Hidden Hidden Cargo Cargo May May 8—One 8 —One week out ((continued continued) )

my burly burly watch mate, mate, and and II frequently Richard Keaulana, my trade off off steering steering chores. chores. Everyone Everyone calls calls him him “Buffalo” or simply simply trade is apt. apt. His His massive shoulders, thick neck and and “Buff.” The The name is hair tinged tinged naturally unmistakably buffalolike. The The hair naturally red-blond are unmistakably fits his his manner: although normally phlegmatic phlegmatic and and name even fits although normally slow moving, moving, he he can can quickly burst into into action. action. quickly burst is another of of Herb Kane’s personal personal choices. Herb, Herb, and and Buffalo is Tommy also, thought thought Buffalo Buftalo was aa “must” for for the the crew. Tommy Holmes also, They They both both were impressed by by his his great great strength strength and and his his skill skill as and lifeguard, aa surfer, surfer, fisherman and lifeguard, and and had had insisted virtually virtually from from the beginning “We have to have the beginning of of the the project, project, “We have to have Buff.” Herb Herb had had

used for crewman in in some of of his his canoe paintpaintused Buffalo as a model for ings, he had had employed He apparently saw the the two ings, much as he employed Kimo. He men in in the light: strong, strong, ruggedly ruggedly handsome watermen who who the same light: would by their their masterful handling handling of of the the would inspire inspire other Hawaiians by 148 148

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ancestral voyaging canoe. Yet the two two are not at all all alike Kimo is Yet the not at alike in in character. Where Kimo is aa glib sparing in in his his words, words, although although when glib talker, talker, Buffalo isis sparing when he he speaks does so with humor, expressing speaks he he does with wry wry humor, expressing himself mostly mostly in in

the thinking the local local pidgin pidgin English English idiom. Where Kimo was always always thinking up new jobs jobs that to be completed before the sail, up that had had to be completed the canoe could could sail, bored with with preparations. ITe He did not spend spend much Buffalo was bored did not much time working just wanted to working on the the canoe; he he just to get get on itit and and leave. leave. “No “No talk, let’s let's go!” what he he had group more talk, go!” was what had shouted shouted at at the the group gathered on the the beach at at Maui anguishing anguishing over Kimo’s gathered Kimo’s dismissal from the crew and whether or not he should have to apologize. apologize. from the and whether not he have to Buftalo and II were taking taking turns steering night. As Buffalo and steering last last night. As we controlling the traded the the now manageable manageable chore chore ofof controlling the sweep, Buffalo began talking about about his his life life on Oahu’s west coast, coast, aa Buffalo began talking heavily Hawaiian area of of high high unemployment and and attendant heavily Hawanan social problems. first he relaxed and told me about about social problems. At At first he was rela‘(ed and amiably amiably told

his and the the Hawaiian they enjoyed enjoyed his family, family, his his friends friends and Hawaiian feasts feasts they together. and he he became together. But But his his open open manner soon changed changed and guarded and and defensive. That That was when he started started talking talking about about guarded when he Hawaiians getting into trouble with law, and and about how he getting into with the the law, about how he and his try to in their their community. and his friends trv to control violent crime in Then he he blurted out, “Sure we do things wrong. We out, “Sure do some things We smoke dope, but don’t bother bother no one!” one!” dope, but no one bothers us and and we don’t Buffalo was putting putting me on notice that he had that he had marijuana marijuana on and that that II should not not interfere. board and For the last few he and and several other have been been For the last few days days he other crewmen have going off off to of the deck, hiding going to aa corner of the deck, hiding behind sleeping sleeping bags bags and and

surreptitiously but but nonetheless obviously obviously puffing puffing on a homemade pipe, perfuming perfuming the air with the pungent odor odor bamboo pipe, the sea-fresh air with the of burning burning marijuana. marijuana. of

The for The literal meaning of of pakalolo, pakalolo, the the neo-Hawaiian term for marijuana, may be what we have hands. Paka Paka marijuana, may be indicative of of what have on our hands. means “tobacco” and and lolo lolo isis popularly popularly translated as “crazy,” “crazy,” alal-

though the the dictionary “paralyzed, numb or feeblethough dictionary definition isis “paralyzed, minded.” Whatever the the exact meaning, of putting up meaning, the the prospect prospect of putting up with for the the next three weeks isis discomforting. with pakalolo pakalolo smokers for What might happen inin an emergency with pakalolo-numbed might happen with a pakalolo-numbed

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be too too not to to be guess. Lyman, Lyman, however, claims not anybody’s guess. crew isis anybody’s spotted Buffalo who first first spotted learned, who recently learned, he, II recently It was he, worried. It liked what lighting after leaving right after had not liked Lyman had leaving Maui. Lyman up right lighting up saying by saying his inaction rationalized by his did He nothing. he but saw, he He he saw, but he did nothing.

from arising from fears arising and fears that the pakalolo might the anxieties and might ease the the pakalolo that tensions left shore disputes, left over from from shore disputes, and and from from any any trouble trouble might have inexperienced seamen might have inin coping coping with with their their first first long long sea voyage. Despite the prohibition contained in in the Despite the prohibition the Articles signed signed just just before leaving Honolulu, warning given given at before leaving Honolulu, and and Rodo’s warning at the the depardeparture ceremony, the smuggled aboard just just before ture the pakalolo pakalolo had had been been smuggled leaving Maui—hidden inside inside an empty guitar case, II was told. leaving empty guitar told. That load load of plus the the transistor radio That of contraband, plus radio that that Billy Billy Richards was listening listening to out, are not only to our second day day out, not the the only

that have have been smuggled aboard. Buffalo has small campitems that been smuggled has a small ing stove fueled fueled with with butane cylinders, supply of coffee and and tea, ing cylinders, aa supply of coffec tea, plus aa bottle of of liquor liquor that that he using to spike his hot plus he has has been been using to spike his hot drinks supplies the the other drinks ever since he he broke broke out his his stove and and supplies evening. Others have candy bars, jars of evening. have candy bars, jars of peanut peanut butter and and jam, jam,

and other high-energy foods. Their presence on board, and caches ofof other board, despite the agreement despite the voyage, isis symptomatic experiment. * experiment.*® The idea idea of of having having The to the the ancient available to

to eat eat only only Polynesian to Polynesian foods foods during during the the of how aboard feel feel about of how most aboard about the the food food everyone subsist subsist solely on those solely on those foods foods voyagers had had at at first first been been conceived as aa

shed some light light on past past voyaging problems problems by by serious effort toto shed seeing how how well well various dried dried and and fresh foods held held up and sceing fresh foods up at at sea, and how well well we could along on them any fish along how could get get along them plus plus any fish caught caught along the way. way. But But we were not not far far into into the the project before that the project before that idea idea got got all mixed mixed up up with with the the cultural revival revival theme. Those Those trying keep all trying to to keep to the the experimental experimental plan plan by carefully researching researching and and testing to by carefully testing various voyaging voyaging foods foods found found themselves overwhelmed by various by those

who insisted that that “grass “grass roots” roots” participation was paramount. The The who *® Not Not until much later in in the the voyage did did we discover that the the television cameraman had had hidden in in the the hull hull compartment reserved for for his his equipment a large jerked meat, dried fruit and he ate in and nuts that secret, in secret. that he of jerked large store of

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main thing, thing, the the latter latter group group said, to have have volunteers throughmain said, was to throughout Hawaii work work together fish, bananas, and out together to to dry dry the the fish, bananas, breadfruit and and to voyaging foods. foods. This This sweet potatoes potatoes and to prepare the the other other voyaging campaign left of salted salted fish fish and and dried dried campaign left us with with aa tremendous store of bananas, spoiled mess of root, and bananas, aa spoiled of pounded pounded taro root, and not enough enough fresh flour and and other fresh coconuts, arrowroot flour other vital vital items. What the pounded to have have What happened happened to to the pounded taro root, root, which which was to been the the main staple staple on the epitomized the the pitfalls pitfalls of of this this been the voyage, epitomized grass roots approach. approach. It It isis supposed to be be prepared prepared by by pounding grass supposed to pounding

cooked taro to with leaves, then storing storing to aa pulp, pulp, wrapping wrapping it it tightly tightly with leaves, then it in aa cool cool pit closed container so that it in pit or aa closed that itit ferments without direct contact with with the air. The The trouble was that those who who had had direct the air. that those taken food experiment had failed to do their their homework. taken over the the food had failed to do Insisting that taro taro should should be in open open air, air, they they Insisting that be allowed to to ferment in packed of freshly wide mesh mesh sacks sacks packed the the hunks of freshly pounded pounded taro into into wide that they thev left left out in the open, resulting resulting in in uncontrolled fermentathat out in the open, tion as well well as infestation with with fruit fruit fly fly larva. tion as larva. It has not taken long to to bring bring home home to inadequacy of It has taken long to us the the inadequacy of food stores. By all the fresh food food has our food By now almost all the fresh has been been eaten, eaten, and taro has has turned mess crawling crawling with maggots. and our our taro turned into into aa rancid rancid mess with maggots.

That dried fish (tasty but for heavy heavy That leaves a a lot lot of of dried fish (tasty but much much too too salty salty for consumption given of two quarts quarts per per day day given our limited limited water ration of per man) man) and after the the per and bananas (delicious but but sickeningly sweet swect after third plus aa few eggs and and aa slight quantity of third mouthful), plus few dozen eggs slight quantity of other fare, but but sufficient to to keep other preserved preserved foods. foods. Not Not ideal ideal fare, keep us going, especially if keep catching day going, especially if we can keep catching fish fish almost every every day as we have have been. But But that that isis not to to be. be. as Griping about about the food has has heen been growing growing the few days, Griping the food the last last few days, and of complainers have been agitating agitating to to have have the and a number of have been the food food off and Chief experiment called called off and to to beg beg food food from from the the Meotai. Chief young National among them them is is the the skinniest man aboard—the young National Geographic magazine it silly try toto Geographic magazine photographer who who thinks it silly to to try live off foods, and aboard, Boogie Boogie live off Polynesian Polynesian foods, and the the fattest fattest man aboard, Kalama, who claims to to be be suffering suffering acutely acutely from food deprivation Kalama, who from food deprivation and being fed “like aa bunch and that that he he and and his his mates are being fed “like bunch of of birds.” birds.” The have apparently got to Kawika and Lyman, The complainers complainers have apparently got to Kawika and Lyman, particularly Kawika, who who isis also also worried about the epidemic particularly Kawika, about the epidemic of

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find of us find Although some of raging on board. board. Although constipation now raging slung between netting slung in the the netting side, or in the side, squatting squatting over the

the the

the bowels, most prowpieces, ideal for of the for promoting evacuation of aboard are suffering The photographer from acute constipation. The suffering from he has complains that some feels that Kawika feels be successful. Kawika to be yet to has yet that he complains that canned vegetables help. Accordingly, might help. foods might soft foods other soft and other vegetables and

the Meotai over the this and requested CB and the CB he called the this afternoon he they send send over a that their Zodiac. in their food in of food load of a load that they

Something Something more than than food food showed up. up. II was at at the the stern when the for the the Zodiac pulled pulled alongside alongside for the transfer, and and II volunteered to to help the load aboard. After fielding help the Meotai crewman toss toss his his load aboard. After fielding aa sack tin of of corned beef beef and and several cans of sack of of rice, rice, aa big big tin of carrots and the Meotai crewman went to to throw and other other vegetables, vegetables, the throw me aa six-pack beer. After But six-pack ofof beer. After the the pakalolo pakalolo aa little little beer beer was nothing. nothing. But my working sluggishly. my mind was working sluggishly. Maybe Maybe II had had made too many many

fund raising raising talks fund talks where II had had assured prospective donors that that no beer or other other alcoholic beverages be allowed beer beverages would be allowed on board. shouting over to Without hesitation II refused the the six-pack, six-pack, shouting to the the “No beer!” beer!” Meotai crewman, “No An instant after An after saying saying that that II realized how how foolish foolish II had had been. been. The trip would not founder on a few few beers. beers. Beer is the essential The trip is the social beverage Hawaii, and social beverage in in Hawaii, and it it was silly silly to to try try to to enforce the the ban now, especially especially with with marijuana aboard. But ban But that that realization came too late. The The Zodiac Zodiac was already with several too late. already pulling pulling away, away, with

six-packs plainly floorboards. II glanced six-packs plainly visible on the the floorboards, glanced back back at at the the standing on the the deck deck above above me. Disbelief turning crewmen standing turning to to anger was written on their anger But their faces. they faces. But they said said nothing, nothing, just just turned their their backs backs and and moved away. away. They They had had been been eight eight days days without beer. beer.