Haynes Toyota Yaris 1999 to 2005 (T to 05 Registration) Petrol Service and Repair Manual 1844252655, 9781844252657

Citation preview

1999to2005 (T to 05

Includes

7

reg istration ) Petrol

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Haynes Publishing, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Telephone (01963) 442030 e E-mail [email protected] ¢ Website France

01 47 17 66 29 * Sweden

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Illegal Copying It is the policy of Haynes-Rublishing to actively-protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who unlawfully copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only. be provided expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the appropriate statutory authorities in whichever jurisdiction the offence takes place.

oyota Yaris ervice and Repair Manual R M Jex Models covered Hatchback, including special/limited editions 1.0 litre (998cc) & 1.3 litre (1299cc) petrol Does NOT cover T-Sport, Free-Tronic/MMT clutchless transmission or Diesel models Does NOT cover features specific to Verso models

ree © Haynes Publishing

ABCDE FGHIJ

2005

'

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

KLMNO PQRS

Printed in the USA Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA Editions Haynes 4, Rue de |'Abreuvoir

ISBN 1 84425 265 5

92415 COURBEVOIE CEDEX, France

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sweden

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR TOYOTA YARIS Safety first!

Page

0O9*5

Introduction

Page

096

If your car won’t start

Page

007

Jump starting

Page

028

Wheel changing

Page

09

Identifying leaks

Page

0¢10

Towing

Page

0°10

Introduction

Page

Oe11

Underbonnet check points

Page

0Oe11

Engine oil level

Page

0e12

Coolant level

Page

0e12

Brake and clutch fluid level

Page

0e13

Screen washer fluid level

Page

0913

Power steering fluid level

Page

0°14

Wiper blades

Page

0°14

Roadside repairs

Weekly checks

Tyre condition and pressure

Page

0015

Battery

Page

0°16

Electrical systems

Page

00e17

Lubricants and fluids

Page 0°18

Tyre pressures

Page 0°18

MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Toyota Yaris petrol models

Page

1e1

Servicing specifications

Page

102

Maintenance schedule

Page

104

Maintenance procedures

Page

1°6

Contents REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL Engine and Associated Systems Engine in-car repair procedures

Page

2Ae1

Engine removal and overhaul procedures Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Fuel system Emission control and exhaust systems Starting and charging systems

Page Page Page Page Page

2Be1 3e1 4Ae1 4Be1 5Ae1

Ignition system

Page

5Be1

Page

6¢e1

Transmission Clutch Manual transmission

Page

7Ae1

Automatic transmission

Page

7Be1

Driveshafts

Page

8e1

Page

9e1

Page

11¢1

Brakes and suspension Braking system

Body equipment Bodywork and fittings

PO

NCM

eriedin eee

Wiring diagrams

Page 1201 Page 12°19

REC ERENCE

Page

REFe1

Conversion factors

Page

REFe2

Buying spare parts

Page

REFe3

Vehicle identification

Page

REF*3

General repair procedures

Page

REFe4

Jacking and vehicle support

Page

REFe5

Disconnecting the battery

Page

REFe6

Tools and working facilities

Page

REFe7

MOT test checks

Page

REFe9

Fault finding

Page

REFe13

Index

Page REFe24

oe Advanced driving

Advanced driving For many people, the process of ‘learning to drive’ doesn’t go much further than learning how to pass the driving test because of a common belief that good drivers are made by ‘experience’.

Learning to drive by ‘experience’ three driving skills:

Many

people

see

the

words

‘advanced

teaches

Quick reactions. (Whoops, that was close!) Good handling skills. (Horn, swerve, brake, horn). Reliance on vehicle technology. (Great stuff this ABS, stop in no distance even in the wet...)

driving’ and believe that it won’t interest them or that it is a style of driving beyond their own abilities. Nothing could be further from the truth. Advanced driving is straightforward safe, sensible driving - the sort of driving we should all do every time we get behind the wheel.

Drivers whose skills are ‘experience based’ generally have a lot of near misses and the odd accident. The results can be seen every day in our courts and our hospital casualty departments.

An average of 10 people are killed every day on UK roads and 870 more are injured, some seriously. Lives are ruined daily, usually because somebody did something stupid. Something like 95% of all accidents are due

Advanced drivers risks by controlling their vehicle. They misses, even if the mistakes.

to human Sometimes

error, mostly driver failure. we make genuine mistakes -

everyone does. Sometimes we have lapses of concentration. Sometimes we deliberately take risks.

have learnt to control the the position and speed of avoid accidents and near drivers around them make

The key skills of advanced driving are concentration, effective all-round observation, anticipation and planning. When good vehicle handling is added to

these skills, all driving situations can be approached and negotiated in a safe, methodical way, leaving nothing to chance. Concentration means applying your mind to safe driving, completely excluding anything that’s not relevant. Driving is usually the most dangerous activity that most of us undertake in our daily routines. It deserves our full attention. Observation means not just looking, but seeing and seeking out the information found in the driving environment. Anticipation means asking yourself what is happening, what you can reasonably expect to happen and what could happen unexpectedly. (One of the commonest words used in compiling accident reports is ‘suddenly’.) Planning is the link between seeing something and taking the appropriate action. For many drivers, planning is the missing link.

If you want to become a safer and more skilful driver and you want to enjoy your driving more, contact the Institute of Advanced Motorists at www.iam.org.uk, phone 0208 996 9600, or write to IAM House, 510 Chiswick High Road, London W4 5RG for an information pack.

Safety first! os Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards Scalding

Fume or gas intoxication e Exhaust fumes are

* Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. ¢ Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning ¢ Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing ¢ When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

¢ Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

((ICg a

Never venture under a car which

poisonous; they often contain carbon

* monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine ina confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. © Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances e Avoid skin! contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel

fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. e Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in

Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid e This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. ® When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery e Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.

e The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags e Air bags can cause injury if they go off

accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage

is only supported by a jack. e Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

your pocket.

instructions may apply.

e Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Diesel injection equipment

Fire

Asbestos

e Fuel is highly flarnmable; fuel vapour is explosive. ¢ Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

* Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

* Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). © Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. ¢ Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. e Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock . © Ignition HT

"

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember... DO * Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle. ¢ Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

e Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

voltage canbe

* Do keep loose clothing and long hair well

dangerous, especially to a people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

e Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system.

oP}

e Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

e Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

DON’T — e Don’t attempt to lift a heavy ‘comr — which may be beyond you capabi fi assistance.

e Don’t rush to finish a job, ortake] unverified short cuts.

© Don’t use ill-fitting tools whieh maysip. and cause injury. — — * Don’t leave tools or parts Neesaroun where someone can trip over them. Mor up oil and fuel spills at once.

* Don’t allow children or pets to play iinor near a vehicle being worked on.

oes INtroduction

The Toyota Yaris was introduced into the UK in March 1999, as the successor to the long-running Starlet. A completely ‘cleansheet’ design, with no carry-over of parts from other models, the Yaris represents a true next-generation small car. Though shorter than its class rivals, passenger space is maximised through ingenious use of space, hinted at externally by the tall body, long wheelbase and minimal overhangs. The uniquely-styled facia, with its central instrument pod, also offers plenty of storage space. Complementing the small yet spacious body are small-capacity (1.0 and 1.3 litre) engines which, thanks to multi-point injection, four valves per cylinder and variable valve timing, manage to offer the performance of larger units. The engines are mounted the Yaris offers high levels of passenger safety, with an impact-absorbing bodyshell and highly-rigid cabin, driver’s airbag and seat belt tensioners. Most of the latest models also have passenger and side airbags as standard, and the Yaris has recently been awarded a fourstar Euro NCAP safety rating. Three- and five-door Hatchback models are available, as well as a Verso ‘estate’ (not fully covered by this manual). From approximately 2001, the UK began receiving imports of Yaris models assembled in Toyota’s French plant generally speaking, these differ only in detail to those made in Japan. The range received a facelift in May 2003, with minor revisions to the headlights, bumpers and interior trim, as well as some safety-related improvements. All models have front-wheel-drive, with a five-speed manual transmission (or an optional four-speed automatic on 1.3 litre

The

front

suspension

is

of

conventional MacPherson strut type, incorporating lower arms, and an anti-roll bar; at the rear, a semi-independent beam axle is combined with compact under-floor springs to provide a more spacious load area. The Yaris has a high equipment level, even

at the lower end of the model range. The latest models all feature a driver’s airbag, antilock

brakes,

trip

computer,

Your Toyota Yaris manual The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the

manual

transversely at the front of the car. As befits a modern supermini,

models).

For the home mechanic, the Yaris is a straightforward car to maintain and repair, since design features have been incorporated to reduce the actual cost of ownership to a minimum, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible.

engine

immobiliser, adjustable rear seat, radio/cassette and power steering - central locking, electric windows and air conditioning are among the equipment fitted higher up the range.

by tackling the work yourself.

On

simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step

sequence. References to the ‘left’ and ‘right’ of the car

are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat, facing forwards.

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Draper tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but car manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular car of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Illegal copying It is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who unlawfully copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provided expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the appropriate statutory authorities.

Roadside repairs o-7 eS

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You wilfind more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your though

car the

won

+ t start even

starter

motor

turns as normal if your

and

Car

the

doesn

won

sta rter

)

t start

L]

Is there fuel in the tank?

[]

Has the engine immobiliser been deactivated? This should happen automatically, on inserting the ignition key. However, if a new key has been obtained (other than from a Toyota dealer), it may not contain the transponder chip necessary to deactivate the system. If it’s a model with automatic transmission, the footbrake must be applied. Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connectors.

motor

t tu rn

L]

[] Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. L] Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Try jump starting (see next page) using another car. ph¢

ye.

Yi

&

Check the condition and security of the battery connections.

ih

With the ignition off, check that the wiring connectors are securely connected to the four ignition coils.

Las

SS

Check that the camshaft position sensor wiring plug is securely connected.

With the ignition off, check the fuses and relays in the engine compartment fusebox.

Whe

spray them Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and

to damp. with a water-dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due

os Roadside repairs J u m

P

r sta rt n g

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

v

aan

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct

whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

HINT

Ane Ifthe battery is being jump-started

repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on.

The battery has been drained by

Vv Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignitionis

w

v

the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH

Ensure that all electrical equipment

:

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

v ¥Y Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.

4

a.

from the battery in another vehicle,

switched off.

Unclip the plastic cover from the jump-

2

each other. Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Connect the other end of the red lead to

:

Thecharging system is not working

properly (alternator drivebelt slack

or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty). The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

3

Connect one end of the biack jump lead

start terminal (+) on the top of the inlet

the positive (+) terminal of the booster

to the negative (-) terminal of the booster

manifold, and connect the red jump lead to the terminal.

battery.

battery.

I 1 i i =

Ws

4

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to jump start negative terminal located on the right-hand suspension @ turret in the engine compartment. Make sure that the jump leads will not

come into contact with the cooling fan drivebelts or other moving parts on the engine.

hs S

:

Start the engine, then with the engine running at fast idle speed, disconnect hr” the jump leads in the reverse order of connection, ie, negative (black) lead first. Securely refit the plastic cover to the jump start positive terminal.

Roadside repairs o-9 Wheel changing

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by

another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by

the job in hand.

Preparation

Changing the wheel

L] When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as

it is safe to do so. L] Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. C] Use hazard warning lights if necessary. L] If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. LC Apply the handbrake, and engage first or reverse gear (or P on automatic transmission). L] Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed - a couple of large stones will do for this. CL If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack.

Prise off the wheel trim (where applicable) from the punctured wheel, using the end of the wheelbrace. Use the wheelbrace to loosen each wheel nut by half a turn. On models with alloy wheels, one of the wheel nuts may be of the locking type — use the ‘key’ tool (a special socket usually provided in the glovebox) with the wheelbrace to undo this.

The spare wheel and tools are located in the luggage compartment, under the boot carpet. Fold back the carpet, then lift out the tool tray, which contains the jack handle, wheelbrace (and towing eye).

Unscrew the spare wheel retainer anticlockwise, then lift out the spare wheel. The vehicle jack is stored next to the spare wheel, at the rear of the wheel recess.

Locate the jack head below the jacking point nearest the wheel to be changed. The jacking points are between two small indentations in the sill lower edge. Only use the jack on firm, level ground. Ensure that the slot in the jack head engages with the sill flange at the jacking point.

Turn the jack handle clockwise until the wheel is raised clear of the ground. Remove the nuts and lift the punctured wheel clear.

Finally... []

| Fit the spare wheel. Refit the wheel nuts, tapered end inwards, and_ tighten moderately with the wheelbrace.

Lower the car to the ground, then finally tighten the wheel nuts in a diagonal sequence. Refit the wheel trim (where applicable). Ideally, the wheel nuts should be slackened and retightened to the specified torque at the earliest opportunity.

]

Remove the wheel chocks. Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car. Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure. The space-saver spare wheel is for temporary use only. Drive with extra care — limit yourself to a maximum of 50 mph, and to the shortest possible journeys, while it is fitted. Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible.

oi0 Roadside repairs Identifying leaks Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide

where

the

leak

is coming

AN

from,

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

APN

Phe smell of a fluid leaking from

the car may

provide a

HINT clue to what’s leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. it may help to clean the car carefully

especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

and to park it over some clean paper

overnight as an aid to locating th source of the leak. / Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Oil from filter

Gearbox oil

— Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

...or from the base of the oil filter.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Antifreeze

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

Towing When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY

towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: L] Use a proper tow-rope - they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. LJ Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work.

_] Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. On models with automatic transmission, if possible, the car should be towed with its front wheels raised clear of the ground, or transmission damage may occur. Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. On models with power steering, greaterthan-usual steering effort may also be

required. The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching.

;

Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.

LIA front towing eye is located with the wheelbrace in the luggage (see Wheel changing). The rear (not designed for towing) is a

jack and compartment lashing eye conventional

loop under the rear bumper. To fit the front towing eye, prise out the cover on

the right-hand side of the front bumper, and remove it. Screw the towing eye in as far as it will go. Tighten the towing eye with the wheelbrace.

Weekly checks o«11 Introduction There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense. These Weekly checks require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example;

[] Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life. L] Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis Will often prevent the majority of these.

CJ If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don’t work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem. C1 If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Underbonnet check points q 1.0 litre engine Engine oil level dipstick Engine oil filler cap Coolant reservoir (expansion tank) Brake and clutch fluid reservoir Power steering fluid reservoir Washer fluid reservoir Battery QONMOOWLS

q 1.3 litre engine

(typical) Engine oil level dipstick Engine oil filler cap Coolant reservoir (expansion tank) Brake and clutch fluid reservoir Power steering fluid reservoir Washer fluid reservoir Battery LS QOmMOOW

o-12 Weekly checks Engine oil level Before you start V Make sure that your car is on level ground. V Check the oil level before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. FPWAs-)

/f

the

oil

is

checked

immediately after driving the car, some of the oil will remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate

reading on the dipstick.

The correct oil

The dipstick is located in a tube at the front of the engine on all engines (see Underbonnet check points on page 0°11 for exact location). Withdraw the dipstick.

Using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe all the oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again.

Modern engines place great demands on their

oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (see Lubricants and fluids).

Car Care @ If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil

(see Fault finding). ® Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low, severe engine darnage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

Coolant level Warning: DO remove the

NOT attempt to expansion § tank

pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding.

Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

1 The coolant level varies with the temperature of the engine. The seethrough expansion tank (located behind the radiator) has F (full) and L (low) level markings (which are hard to see, except from behind). When cold, the level should be between the two marks. When the engine is hot, the level may rise slightly above the F mark.

Lig

Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be within the ‘hatched’ area, between the upper (F) mark and the lower (L) mark. If the engine is very hot, the oil level may appear to be above the upper mark, owing to thermal expansion. Approximately 0.5 to 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap. Unscrew the filler cap, then top-up the level. A funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Don’t overfill.

Car care ® With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

2

If topping-up is necessary, wait until the engine is cold, then remove the cap on the expansion tank.

@ It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze to the expansion tank, until the coolant is up to the F mark. Use antifreeze of the same type (and colour) as that which is already in the system. Refit the cap securely.

Weekly checks oe13 Brake and clutch’ fluid level * The brake fluid reservoir also supplies fluid to the clutch master cylinder. Warning: Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution

when handling and pouring it. @ Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture

from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Safety first! @ If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup, this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the brake or clutch system, which should be investigated immediately.

ie The MAX and MIN marks are indicated on the side of the reservoir, which is located right at the back of the engine compartment, on the driver’s side. The fluid level must be kept between these two marks.

@ The fluid level in the reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the

fluid level must never be allowed to drop below the MIN mark. @ If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.

t

8

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag, then unscrew the cap. When adding fluid, it’s a good idea to inspect the reservoir. The fluid should be changed if it appears to be dark, or if dirt is visible.

Carefully add fluid, avoiding spilling it on surrounding paintwork. Use only the specified hydraulic fluid; mixing different types

of fluid

can

cause

damage

to the

system and/or a loss of braking effectiveness. After filling to the correct level, refit the cap securely. Wipe off any spilt fluid.

Screen washer fluid level Screenwash additives not only keep the windscreen clean during foul weather, they

also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather — which is when you are likely to

need it most. Don’t top-up using plain water as the screenwash will become too diluted, and will freeze during cold weather.

Ae 1 The windscreen/tailgate washer fluid : reservoir filler neck is located on the driver’s side of the engine compartment, behind the headlight. If topping-up is necessary, open the cap.

7

Warning: On no account use coolant antifreeze in the washer system - this could discolour or damage paintwork.

N

When topping-up the reservoir, a screenwash additive should be added in the quantities recommended on the bottle.

Though

there’s no harm

in filling the

bottle right up, there is a FULL level mark provided.

o-14 Weekly checks

Power steering fluid level Safety first!

Before you start @ The level should be checked either when the engine is cold (before the car is driven), or for greater accuracy, when the engine is hot

®@ Note that models with manual or electric power steering do not use hydraulic fluid.

@ The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.

Replace the filler cap loosely without screwing it down, so that the dipstick is inserted into the reservoir. Withdraw the dipstick/cap, and check the level on the dipstick. Two fluid level ranges are provided on the dipstick — depending on whether the fluid is hot or cold, the level should be in the HOT or COLD areas.

3

If topping-up is necessary, wipe the surrounding area so that dirt does not enter the reservoir. Top-up the fluid level to the top of the relevant area on the dipstick, using the specified type of fluid (do not overfill the reservoir), then refit and tighten the filler cap.

To remove a windscreen wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the screen until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, then depress the locking clip at the base of the mounting block, and slide the blade out of the hooked end of the arm.

3

(after a run of more than 5 miles).

The power steering fluid reservoir is located at the front of the engine compartment, next to the washer filler neck — on some models, however, it may be at the rear, next to the brake/clutch fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be checked with the engine stopped. Unscrew the filler cap, which incorporates a dipstick on the underside. Wipe the dipstick using a clean cloth.

Wiper blades

Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of vision, wiper blades should annually, as a matter of course.

be

renewed

Don’t forget to check the tailgate wiper blade as well. The blade and wiper arm

appear to would require a wiper arm can Chapter 12 (but parts availability

be one unit, so renewal new wiper arm assembly. The be removed as described in check with a Toyota dealer on first).

Weekly checks 015 Tyre condition and pressure It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more wear. even However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. if removal of a nail does reveal that

Tread Depth - visual check The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so

that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

Tread Depth - manual check Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). !f this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

3 Tyre Pressure Check Check the tyres pressures been used,

the tyre pressures regularly with cold. Do not adjust the tyre immediately after the vehicle has or an inaccurate setting will result.

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Centre Wear

Uneven

Underinflation (wear on both sides) Under-inflation will cause overheating of the

Overinflation Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Check and adjust pressures

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road - surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts Hard cornering Reduce speed!

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t

forget to reduce afterwards.

the pressures

to normal

Wear

Incorrect camber or castor Repair or renew suspension parts Malfunctioning suspension Repair or renew suspension parts Unbalanced whee! Balance tyres Incorrect toe setting Adjust front wheel alignment

Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

o16 Weekly checks Battery Caution: Before carrying out any work on the battery, read the precautions given in ‘Safety first!’ at the start of this manual. vV Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts

damaged

by corrosion should be covered

with a zinc-based primer, then painted.

¥ Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A. ¥ If the original Toyota battery has been replaced with a maintenance-free type, ignore the advice about topping-up the water (this will usually be impossible in any case, with such a battery). v If the battery is flat, and you need to jump start your car, see Roadside repairs.

The battery is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment. The exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked case or cover.

Check the tightness of the battery cable clamps to ensure good electrical connections. You should not be able to move them. Also check each cable for cracks and frayed conductors. If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them.

The original Toyota battery is unusual nowadays in that it requires periodic water level checking and topping-up. The water level in each of the six cells can be seen through the translucent side of the battery, which also has upper and lower level markings. If topping-up is required, use a coin to unscrew the cell caps...

4

HAYNES

Battery corrosion can be kept to a | minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected.

.. . then add distilled water a little at a time until the level reaches the upper marking on the side of the battery. Remember at all times that there’s powerful acid in the battery —- wipe up any spills and wash your hands afterwards (wearing gloves is a wise precaution). Refit the cell caps securely on completion.

Weekly checks 017 Electrical systems ¥ Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative.

v¥ Visually check all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

oN

1

If a single indicator light, brake light or headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb has blown and will need to be renewed. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both brake lights have failed, it is possible that the brake light switch operated by the brake pedal has failed. Refer to Chapter 9 for details.

2

Wi

If more, than one indicator light or headlight has failed, it is likely that either a fuse has blown, or that there is a fault in the circuit (see Chapter 12). The main fuses are mounted behind a panel in the driver’s lower storage compartment. Unclip the panel and release it from the facia.

To renew a blown fuse, remove it using the plastic tweezer tool provided (where applicable). Fit a new fuse of the same rating, available from car accessory shops. It is important that you find the reason that the fuse blew (see Electrical fault finding in Chapter 12).

oe1s Lubricants and fluids

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Lubricants and fluids Engine oil, SAE 5W-30 or 10W-30, to specification API SJ or SL Ethylene glycol-based antifreeze suitable for use in mixed-metal engines — Toyota Long Life Coolant (red) or Super Long Life Coolant (pink)* Gear oil, SAE 75W-90, to specification AP! GL-4 or GL-5

Manual transmission

Automatic transmission

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Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) — Type T-IV or equivalent (refer to Toyota dealer if necessary)

Brake and clutch systems ....................25-

Hydraulic fluid to DOT 3 or DOT 4

Power steering (hydraulic type)

Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) — Dexron II or III

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* Do not mix the two types of coolant listed with each other, nor top-up with any other type of coolant. Alternative types of coolant may only be used once the system has been drained and completely flushed, as described in Chapter 1.

Choosing your engine oil Engines need oil, not only to lubricate moving parts and minimise wear, but also to maximise power output and to improve fuel

economy.

® Cooling hot-spots

OIL CARE - FOLLOW THE CODE

Temperatures inside the engine can exceed 1000° C. The engine oil circulates and acts as a coolant, transferring heat from the hot-spots to the sump.

To handle and dispose of used engine oil safely, always: e Avoid skin contact with used engine oil. Repeated or prolonged contact can be harmful. e Dispose of used oil and empty packs in a responsible manner in an authorised disposal site. t 1 Call 0800 663366 to find BAK K out 0800 66 33 66 the one nearest to you. www.olibankiine.org.uk Never tip oil down drains or onto the ground.

HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS ¢ Beating friction

e¢ Cleaning the engine internally

Without oil, the moving surfaces inside your engine will rub together, heat up and melt, quickly causing the engine to seize. Engine oil creates a film which separates these moving parts, preventing wear and heat build-up.

Good quality engine oils clean the inside of your engine, collecting and dispersing combustion deposits and controlling them until they are trapped by the oil filter or flushed out at oil change.

Tyre pressures Note: Pressures given here are a guide only, and apply to original-equipment tyres — the recommended pressures may vary if any other make or type of tyre is fitted; check with the car handbook, or the tyre manufacturer or supplier for latest recommendations. A tyre pressure label is fitted inside the glovebox.

Normal load (up to 2 people) Except 185/55 R 15 tyres Meo OOURIONY(CS”. «ccs a amurbuvae sialon

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Rear

2.3 bar (33 psi) 2.1 bar (30 psi)

2.1 bar (30 psi) 2.0 bar (29 psi)

2.3 bar (33 psi)

2.2 bar (32 psi)

Space-saver spare tyre All load conditions, front or rear.....

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4.2 bar (61 psi)

Chapter 1 Routine maintenance & servicing

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Spark plugirenewall ga.saske fete cratic aicueet eeeen en ae Cee 18 ~Steering/and suspension checks 4.1mm enentereince sees a eater ue) Valve clearance check and adjustment ..................0000. 25

FRUXINARVACIIVGSOINCMECKG tat sin nn nists cain Viola stale shaoeleceeyee ie onevesc Auxiliary drivebelt renewal and adjustment .................... BAKSIMCINEHIO Wallies fey sterevats.,