Haynes Toyota Celica FWD Automotive Repair Manual 1563920887, 9781563920387

Citation preview

iHii RASER

40

04 as

oss

VALL

ini

LW

J

4

F4 {

=

at:

;

4

ae

>

\

‘

——

+

7 :

, .

:

4

é

i.

= ie

ay

2

-

wp

*

‘a ar ee Pe) re

fo = a

S

4 Es

Toyota Celica FWD Automotive

Repair

—

Manual by Larry Warren and John H Haynes | 62942222 3908 3015

TUYOTA i135 769863 Larrye Warrens 19866 thru Toyota C elicas

Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: All Toyota Celica front wheel drive models 1986 through 1992 Does not include all-wheel drive information

CE ESS

PTY

SS SS

UES

a \ 2A

Gl

®

A

AUTOMCTIVI

De NCESSiac OAS MEMBER

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA Fee Zu?

CDP h

'

WAIEYV .

i

LY3,

a4

PEOIORIAY Bh

“J

SP

aid

FIND

Acknowledgements We are grateful for the help and cooperation of the Toyota Motor Corporation for their assistance with technical information, ‘certain illustrations and vehicle photos. The Champion Spark Plug Company supplied the illustrations of various spark plug conditions. Technical writers who contributed to this project include Alan Ahlstrand, J.J. Haynes and Doug Nelson.

© Haynes North America, Inc.

1992

With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 56392 088 7 a

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 92-73865

q ee

While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by theauthors or publishers for loss, damage or injury Caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. 92 - 328

a

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Toyota Celica Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Jacking and towing Booster battery (jump) starting Stereo anti-theft system precaution Automotive chemicals and lubricants Safety first! Conversion factors Troubleshooting

PP2PPP

SPEPPP?PPP ek OMONOAA aks wack ee kt eae

Chapter 1

Me

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter 2

PartA

Engines

Chapter2

1-1

2A-1

PartB

General engine overhaul procedures

2B-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3-1

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Chapter 7

PartA

Manual transaxle

Chapter7

6-1

TA-1

PartB

Automatic transaxle

7B-1

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

Chapter 9 Brakes

8-1

9-1

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

Chapter 11 Body Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system Wiring diagrams

10-1

- 11-1

1992 Toyota Celica convertible

Haynes mechanic, author and photographer with 1987 Toyota Celica Coupe

About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal

lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent

Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it’s necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word "Chapter” apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, "see Section 8” means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver’s seat, facing forward. Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the Toyota Celica Toyota Celica models are available in two-door sedan and liftback body styles. The transversely mounted inline four-cylinder engines used in these models are equipped with electronic fuel injection. The engine drives the front wheels through either a five-speed manual or a three- or four-speed automatic transaxle via independent

driveaxles. Independent suspension, featuring coil spring/strut damper units, is used on all four wheels. The power-assisted rack and pinion steering unit is mounted behind the engine. The brakes are disc at the front with either drum or discs at the rear, depending on model, with power assist standard.

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) This very important identification number is stamped on the firewall in the engine compartment and on a plate attached to the dashboard inside the windshield on the driver’s side of the vehicle (see illustration). The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body style.

Manufacturer’s plate The manufacturer’s plate is attached to the firewall in the engine compartment (see illustration). The plate contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) and the certification statement.

Engine numbers The engine code numbers can be found in a variety of locations, depending on engine type (see illustrations).

Important ID numbers and other information can be found in several locations on the vehicle

A

Vehicle Identification Number (visible through the driver’s side of the windshield) Manufacturer’s plate QW Certification regulation label

Location of the engine identification number - 2S-E engine

ee

Location of the engine identification number - 3S-FE, 3S-GE, 3SGTE and 5S-FE engines

Location of the engine identification number - 4A-FE engine

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell

tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: If the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient,

better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of

some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must

be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-8 Fastener sizes

For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An Mi2 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric

wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade.

iF Grade 8

Grade 1 or 2

Bolt strength markings (top - standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

Grade

Identification

Class

Identification

Hex Nut

Hex Nut Grade 5

Property Class 9

3 Dots

Arabic 9 Hex Nut

Hex Nut Grade 8

Pro perty Class 10

6 Dots Standard hex nut strength markings

-

Arabic10 Metric hex nut strength markings

nc — OD © CLASS 10.9

CLASS 9.8

Metric stud length markings

CLASS 8.8

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through

2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure

the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non#metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine

Metric thread sizes

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

Grade marks (bolt length) Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in inches) Oyx4rQD

0-9

Ft-lbs

Nm

vadhcuscee

6to9

9to12

ee ee: eee peer Bee oe

14 28 50 80

Per

5 to 8

to to to to

21 40 71 140

19 to 28 38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

7 to 10

Peers 12 to 18

17 to 24

ee eee te 22 to 33

30 to 44

See 25 to 35

34 to 47

“ee eee scat VSP Ree ae (eae ete a: arene

9to 12 17 to 24 19 to 27 30 to 43 37 to! 55 to 74 55 to 81 75 to 108

6 to9 12 to 14 to 22 to 27 to 40 to 40 to 55 to

18 20 32 38 55 60 80

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks

Property class (bolt strength) Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters) Diameter vo OS

0-10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

a

the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Hose removal tips Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or a service station. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If ahose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one.

A

qT

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

r:'.

Dial indicator set

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-11

Dial caliper

Hand-operated vacuum pump

Timing light

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

Damper/steering wheel puller

General purpose puller

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

Ridge reamer

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

0-12

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Ring compressor

Cylinder hone

Brake cylinder hone

Clutch plate alignment tool

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and open-end combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades

Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench

Tap and die set

Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands (2) Drain pan Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive, it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set. Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension - 10 inch Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby - 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2) Pliers - vise grip Pliers - lineman’s Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external)

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-13

Cold chisel - 1/2-inch

are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be

Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch) Steel rule/straightedge - 12 inch

purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won’t last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality

Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or 4 mm to 10 mm)

A selection of files Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type) Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their

manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are in-

cluded in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter — Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools

tools.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with re-

spect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won’t get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be caref

ully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

Working

facilities

Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc.

which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plas-

tic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

Jacking and towing into place all the way around.

Jacking Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle should be on level ground. Place the shift lever in Park, if you have an automatic, or Reverse if you have a manual transaxle. Block the wheel diagonally opposite the wheel being changed. Set the parking brake. Remove the spare tire and jack from stowage. Remove the wheel cover and trim ring (if so equipped) with the tapered end of the lug nut wrench by inserting and twisting the handle and then prying against the back of the wheel cover. On aluminum wheels, tap the back side of the wheel hub cover after removing the wheel (do not attempt to pull off the wheel hub cover by hand). Loosen, but do not remove, the lug nuts (one-half turn is sufficient). Place the scissors-type jack under the side of the vehicle and adjust the jack height until it fits between the notches in the vertical rocker panel flange nearest the wheel to be changed. There is a front and rear jacking point on each side of the vehicle (see illustration). Turn the jack handle clockwise until the tire clears the ground. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off. Replace it with the spare. Install the lug nuts with the beveled edges facing in. Tighten them snugly. Don’t attempt to tighten them completely until the vehicle is lowered or it could slip off the jack. Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Remove the jack and tighten the lug nuts ina criss-cross pattern.

Install the cover (and trim ring, if used) and be sure it’s snapped

Stow the tire, jack and wrench. Unblock the wheels.

Towing As a general rule, the vehicle should be towed with the front (drive) wheels off the ground. If they can’t be raised, place them ona dolly. The ignition key must be in the ACC position, since the steering lock mechanism isn’t strong enough to hold the front wheels straight while towing. Vehicles equipped with an automatic transaxle can be towed from the front only with all four wheels on the ground, provided that speeds don’t exceed 30 mph and the distance is not over 50 miles. Before towing, check the transmission fluid level (see Chapter 1). If the level is below the HOT line on the dipstick, add fluid or use a towing dolly. Release the parking brake, put the transaxle in Neutral and place the ignition key in the ACC position. Caution: Never tow a vehicle with an automatic transaxle from the rear with the front wheels on the ground. When towing a vehicle equipped with a manual transaxle with all four wheels on the ground, be sure to place the shift lever in neutral and release the parking brake. Equipment specifically designed for towing should be used. It should be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle, not

the bumpers or brackets. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain system must be used at all times. Remember that power steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off.

Seam Notches

The jack fits over the rocker panel flange, between the two notches (there are two jacking points on each side of the vehicle)

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle: a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition switch is in the Off position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d). Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle. e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other! f) Make sure the transaxle is in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). g) If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes. Connect the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals of each battery (see illustration). Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the body. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

Stereo anti-theft system precaution Stereo systems displaying “ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM” on the cas-

sette tape slot cover have a built-in theft deterrent system designed to render the stereo inoperative should the stereo be stolen. If the power source to the stereo is cut, the anti-theft system will activate. Even if the power source is immediately reconnected, the stereo will not function. If your vehicle is equipped with this anti-theft system, do not dis-

connect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery, remove the stereo or disconnect related components unless you have the indi-

vidual ID (code) number for the stereo. If you discover that the system is inoperative after disconnecting and reconnecting the power source, enter the ID number. If the wrong number is entered, “Err” will appear on the display. You may make up to nine errors - a tenth error will activate the system and “HELP” will appear on the display. If this occurs, contact your local Toyota dealer service department.

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and nonflammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

Lubricants Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints. High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100 to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (Such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease

that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

Sealants RTV sealant is one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together. Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes ina spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system and exhaust manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. High-strength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren’t removed ona regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim

pieces. Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

Safety first Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment’s lack of attention can resuit in an accident, as can

failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered:a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON’Ts DON’T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON’T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack - it may fall. DON’T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON’T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system - let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON’T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you. DON’T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON’T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON’T inhale brake lining dust - it is potentially hazardous (see As-

bestos below) DON’T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON’T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON’T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip. DON’T attempt to lift a heavy component alone - get someone to help you. DON’T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON’T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts. DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on

a vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is correctly assembled and tightened. DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets. DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

Asbestos

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products - such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, inhalaetc. - contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid If in tion of dust from such products, since it is hazardous to health. asbestos. contain do they that doubt, assume

Fire Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk

spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component.It is strongly recommended that afire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near a battery. They normally give off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenance-free batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.

Secondary ignition system voltage A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

Conversion factors Length (distance) Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

25.4 0.305 KX 1.609 x

Volume (capacity)

x x X

=Millimetres (mm) = Metres (m)

= Kilometres (km)

16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm’)

Cubic inches (cu in; in?) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

US gallons (US gal)

0.568 1.137 1.201 0.946 4.546 1.201 KK KKK x 3.785

= Litres (|) = Litres (I) =US quarts (US qt) = Litres (I) = Litres (I) =US gallons (US gal) = Litres (I)

0.0394 3.281 0.621

0.061 1.76 0.88 0.833 1.057 0.22 0.833 KKK x KX 0.264 KK

= Inches (in)

= Feet (ft) = Miles

= Cubic inches (cu in; in’) = Imperial pints (Imp pt) = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

= Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) i Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

= US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight) 28.35

Ounces (oz) Pounds (Ib)

xx 0.454

= Grams (g) = Kilograms (kg)

0.278 4.448 X< x 0.1

=Newtons (N) = Newtons (N) = Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

X< x
—

Camshaft oil Seal Retainer

Oil Seal

Rocker Arm Lash Adjuster

Valve Keeper

—W

Q————————_ Valve Spring Retainer’

Valve Guide Barros Bushing

vee Spring Valve Spring Seat Valve Stem Oil Seal

Gasket

Cylinder Head

Valve

Cylinder Head Gasket

4.4a

2S-E (SOHC) engine cylinder head and related components - exploded view

Chapter 2 PartA

Engines

2A-7

Throttle Body

Delivery Pipe O-Ring Grommet

Shim OQ adjusting

injector

Valve Lifter

99__________Keeper S

Air Tube Camshaft

Spring Retainer

C————Vaive ; Spring oat Me Ea ee Oil Seal

Cover

Spring Seat Valve Guide Bushing

Gasket

Valve

4

: amshaft

Bearin

Camshaft

aneh

BS) ;

Distributor

Camshaft Sub-gear

Oil Seal ——G) “\

Snap Ring

Water Outlet

—|

Sprin Retainer-————_®

Snap Ring 15.6b

Oil pump components - exploded view (all except 4A-FE engine)

All engines

15.7

Clamp the pump pulley in a well padded vise to remove the pulley nut

5 Remove the bolts and detach the oil pump case from the engine (see illustrations). You may have to pry carefully between the front main bearing cap and the pump case with a screwdriver.

All except 4A-FE engine 6

Remove the two remaining bolts (see illustration),and separate

the pump body from the case. Lift out the driven rotor and remove the O-ring (see illustration). 7 Clamp the pump pulley in a well padded vise (see illustration) v and remove the pulley nut. Take off the pulley and remove the drive ro-

tor (see illustration 15.6b).

4A-FE engine

8

9

, ip,

Thies Lip

©

‘

Remove five screws and lift off the’ sti np.coyer (see illustration).

_Lift out the drive and driven rotors...) hv" es

Inspection Refer to illustrations 15.14a 12 Clean all components and damage. 13 Check the oil pressure spring. If either the spring _ placed as a set.

zs

and 15.14b with solvent, then inspect them for wear relief valve pist or the valve i

iding surface and valve ed, they must be re-

Sees

- 14 Check the driven rototsto-case and drive rotor tip clearances with feeler gauges (see illustrations) and compare the results to the Speci-

“fications.©

Installation

XY

Mg

10 Use a scraper to remove all traces of sealant and old gasket material from the pump case and engine block, then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or‘acetone. 11. Remove the oil pressure relief valve snap-ring (see illustration), retainer, spring and piston (see illustration 15.6b or 15.8). Warning: The spring is tightly compressed - be careful and wear eye protection.

_ eee ay

abiet

Refer to illustrations 15.15a, 15.15b and 15.18 15 Pry the old oil seal out with a screwdriver. Using a deep socket

Chapter 2 PartA

Engines

2A-37

Ps

15.11.

15.8

Remove the snap-ring to disassemble the oil pressure relief valve

Oil pump components - exploded view (4A-FE engine)

1 Oil pump 2 Dipstick tube 3 Oil seal 4 Relief valve piston 5 Spring 6 Retainer 7 ~~ Snap-ring

15.14a

8 9 10 11. 12. 13

Gasket Drive gear Driven gear Oil pump cover Gasket Oil pick-up

Measure the driven rotor-to-case clearance...

and a hammer, carefully drive a new seal into place (see illustrations). Apply moly-base grease to the seal lip.

All except 4A-FE engine 16 Install a new crankshaft seal using the same procedure as outlined in the previous step. Apply moly-base grease to the seal lip. 17 Install a new O-ring. 18 Lubricate the driven rotor with clean engine oil and place it in the pump case with the mark facing out (see illustration).

19 Lubricate the shaft and install the drive rotor in the pump body, then reinstall the pulley and tighten the nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 20 Pack the pump cavity with petroleum jelly and attach the pump

body to the case with the 16 mm long bolts (see illustration 15.6a).

15.15a

Carefully pry the oil seal out of the pump body (3S-FE shown; others similar) at wh

Chapter 2 PartA

2A-38

Engines

15.18 Oil pump case ready for pump body installation (all except 4A-FE engine) - note that the seal is in place, the O-ring is in place and the mark on the driven rotor is facing out (arrow)

15.25 When installing the oil pump housing on the block, make sure the splines on the drive gear are engaged with the flats on the crankshaft

16.3.

Mark the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft so they

can be reassembled in the same relative positions

16.5

On vehicles with spacer plates, note the position of the locating pin (arrow)

hold it in place). 25 Position the pump against the block and install the mounting bolts. If you’re working on a 4A-FE engine, make sure the splines on the drive gear are engaged with the flats on the crankshaft (see illustration). 26 Tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications in three or four steps. Follow a criss-cross pattern to avoid warping the case. 27 Using a new gasket or O-ring (whichever it came with), install the oil pick-up tube assembly and baffle plate. Tighten the fasteners to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 28 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. 29 Add oil, start the engine and check for oil pressure and leaks. 30 Recheck the engine oil level.

4A-FE engine 21 Lubricate the rotors with clean engine oil and place them in the pump case with the marks facing the cover. 22 Install the cover and tighten the screws to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

All engines Refer to illustration 15.25 23 Lubricate the oil pressure relief valve piston with clean engine oil and reinstall the valve components in the pump case. 24 Place a new gasket on the engine block (the dowel pins should, y

ney

Reo Bae

16

Flywheel/driveplate - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 16.3 and 16.5 1 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then refer to Chapter 7 and remove the transaxle. If it’s leaking, now would be a very good time to replace the front pump seal/O-ring (automatic transaxle only).

2 Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc (Chapter 8) (manual transaxle equipped vehicles). Now is a good time to check/replace the

Chapter 2 PartA

The quick (but not recommended) way to replace the rear crankshaft oil seal is to simply pry the old one out with a screwdriver, lubricate the crankshaft journal and the lip of the new seal with moly-base grease and push the new seal into place - the trouble is, the seal lip is stiff and can be easily damaged during installation if you’re not careful

2A-39

Engines

17.2

17.5 After removing the retainer assembly from the block, support it on a couple of wood blocks and drive out the old seal with a screwdriver and hammer

18.8a To remove the right engine mount, remove the through bolt and the two nuts under the insulator (5S-FE engine shown)

work up to the final torque in three or four steps. 10 The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. i

Drive the new seal into the retainer with a block of wood or 17.6 a section of pipe, if you have one large enough - make sure that you don’t cock the seal in the retainer bore

clutch components and pilot bearing. Use acenter-punch or paint to make alignment marks on the fly3. wheel/driveplate and crankshaft to ensure correct alignment during reinstallation (see illustration). Remove the bolts that secure the flywheel/driveplate to the 4 crankshaft. If the crankshaft turns; wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to jam the flywheel. Remove the flywheel/driveplate from the crankshaft. Since the 5 flywheel is fairly heavy, be sure to support it while removing the last bolt. Automatic transaxle equipped vehicles have spacers on both sides of the driveplate (see illustration). Clean the flywheel to remove grease and oil. Inspect the surface 6 for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks. Light scoring can be removed with emery cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring to gear teeth. Lay the flywheel onaflat surface and use a straightedge

check for warpage. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the flywheel/driveplate 7 beand the crankshaft. If the crankshaft rear seal is leaking, replace it fore reinstalling the flywheel/driveplate. to Position the flywheel/driveplate against the crankshaft. Be sure 8

an align the marks made during removal. Note that some engines have on. alignment dowel or staggered bolt holes to ensure correct installati d to the Before installing the bolts, apply thread locking compoun threads. keep the Wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to 9 torque the to bolts the tighten you flywheel/driveplate from turning as oss pattern and criss-cr a Follow ations. Specific ’s Chapter this in listed

17.

Naa!

Rear crankshaft oil seal - replacement SEEE EIEN

EEE

Refer to illustrations 17.2, 17.5 and 17.6 The transaxle must be removed from the vehicle for this proce1 dure (see Chapter 7). The seal can be replaced without dropping the oil pan or remov2 ing the seal retainer. However, this method is not recommended because the lip of the seal is quite stiff and it’s possible to cock the seal in the retainer bore or damage it during installation. If you want to take the chance, pry out the old seal with a screwdriver (see illustration). Apply moly-base grease to the crankshaft seal journal and the lip of the new seal and carefully push the new seal into place. The lip is stiff so carefully work it onto the seal journal of the crankshaft with a smooth object like the end of an extension as you tap the seal into place. Don’t rush it or you may damage the seal. The following method is recommended but requires removal of 3. the oil pan (see Section 14) and the seal retainer. After the oil pan has been removed, remove the bolts, detach the 4 seal retainer and peel off all the old gasket material. Position the seal and retainer assembly on a couple of wood 5 blocks on a workbench and drive the old seal out from the back side with a screwdriver (see illustration). 6 __ Drive the new seal into the retainer with a block of wood (see illustration) or a section of pipe slightly smaller in diameter than the

outside diameter of the seal. Lubricate the crankshaft seal journal and the lip of the new seal 7 with moly-base grease. Position a new gasket on the engine block. Slowly and carefully push the seal onto the crankshaft. The seal 8 lip is stiff, so work it onto the crankshaft with a smooth object such as | : the end of an extension as you push the retainer against the block. Install and tighten the retainer bolts to the torque listed in this 9

Chapter 2 PartA

2A-40

18.8b

The right engine mount on some models has an additional stud (arrow) for a brace

Engines

18.10a

To access the rear engine mount (shown from below), the crossmembers must be removed

Check 2 During the check, the engine must be raised slightly to remove the weight from the mounts. 3 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then position a jack under the engine oil pan. Place a large block of wood between the jack head and the oil pan, then carefully raise the engine just enough to take the weight off the mounts. Warning: DO NOT place any part of your body under the engine when it’s supported only by a Jack! 4 Check the mounts to see if the rubber is cracked, hardened or separated from the metal plates. Sometimes the rubber will split right down the center. 5 Check for relative movement between the mount plates and the engine or frame (use a large screwdriver or prybar to attempt to move the mounts). If movement is noted, lower the engine and tighten the mount fasteners. 6 Rubber preservative should be applied to the mounts to slow deterioration. 18.10b

Remove the mounting nuts (arrows)

Chapter’s Specifications. The bottom sealing flange of the retainer must not extend below the bottom sealing flange (oil pan rail) of the block. 10 The remaining steps are the reverse of removal.

18

Engine mounts - check and replacement

Refer to illustrations 18.8a, 18.86, 18.10a and 18.10b i 1 Engine mounts seldom require attention, but broken or deteriorated mounts should be replaced immediately or the added strain placed on the driveline components may cause damage or wear.

Replacement 7 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery, then raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands (if not already done). Support the engine as described in Step 3. 8 Toremove the right engine mount, remove the nut and withdraw the through-bolt from the frame bracket (see illustrations). 9 Remove the mount-to-bracket nuts and detach the mount. 10 To remove the rear engine mount, detach the crossmembers as described in Section 14, then remove the nuts from the side of the mount (see illustrations) and lower the mount from the bracket. Warning: Do not remove the crossmembers if the upper mounts are disconnected! RAN 11 Installation is the reverse of removal. Use thread locking compound on the mount bolts/nuts and be sure to tighten them securely. 12 See Chapter 7 for transaxle mount replacement.

Chapter 2 Part B General engine overhaul procedures Contents Crankshaft -inSPeCtion............:.c0Secccsccscssssssestecserosessensseessonerenssese Crankshaft- installation and main eats oil clearance check .. Crankshaft = rermmOvValinc. 250....2s2-tecccesseccsccncsessnecnseseseseorerssessenerersouaes Cylinder head - cleaning ANd iINSPECTION.........-eseereererererenereteteees Cylinder head - disaSSOMDIy........:sscsceceseeseecsseenerseeneeeeenetaneanenes Cylinder head - reaSSeMblly ........:.cseeescesseceseesssreeeeseenseneetersenerares Cylinder Compression CHECK........:scsseseesessreesessssneesereenenseenesaces

Cylinder HONING ......--cececeseeeserenereesrsescstesssesenescscscacacasnanenenenseerecenes Engine DIOCK ~ ClEAMiNg.........eeseeesercesessesrsrssnensesenenscesenersenensensees Engine block - inSPeCtiOn..........:ssseecssseseenenseersesensasssnenenenseetansees Engine overhaul - disassembly SCQUENCE.............+eseeereserereerereterees Engine overhaul - general information .......--:s.-sssressereeesererseeereeeees Engine overhaul - reassembly SEQUENCE ..........ssseeeerereesesererststeeses Engine rebuilding alternatives ..........:cccscscssssesesesenesesenenensnssesesesses

18 22 13 9 8 11 3

16 14 15 7 2 20 6

Engine - removal and installation ...........ccccccceseeeessesseeseesenestsseenes Engine removal - methods and preCautions ..........eseresscsereseerseeees OFAl MAFONTTMATION ic ncencan-nsneasazesegucesee~ snpetoanshadpdacnenseesenteemeetetea oeiae Glen Initial start-up and break-in after OVErNaUl ...........cceeeeeneeeeeeeeteees Main and connecting rod bearings - inspection and selection...... Pistons/connecting rods - INSPECTION .............cescceesrererreeesseeceneeeees Pistons/connecting rods - installation

and rod bearing oil clearance CHECK............ssccsseeeseeseeeseeereeeeees

Pistons/connecting rods - reMoOVal ..........:ccccescesseeeeeneeeteeeereeereeees Piston rings - installation ........:.ccccccsceesceseeneeeeeteeneeseeeseensenesessenseasees

Rear main oil Seal installation..............:ccssccsscesceeseeseceseesteeeeseeseeenes VAIVES - SOLVICING .:...sccesceeeceeseecssccssesstscsscessecenecenscnncesnsouneeuseaestovnnes

ae Specifications

O_O General Displacement

QS-E, 3S-FE, 3S-GE.....

ce essssceeeeeeseseneeseneessenenssessararsensrsenenenenens

Cylinder compression pressure 2S-E engine PATRIAC)a cscoee tees vad ve tatinns venceer'nrasancpednvsrmptie’pndoakaanvaisennsenehames MiMiMUIM secececcoeseereascssscsccerenccesesnaccsessececsncecsnscnscssansesensonsnts 3S-FE, 3S-GE, 5S-FE engines Standard ..cecccerececssssassercenscsocceserscensnssncsscevanscecseusensensecnsanece MINIMUM cccscesocesnsoescsencesecenscessccoossnsessnsesesenscsescnscsstsessennuaneens 4A-FE engine

Standard .ccccecceccessovecceccccnsecssssrscesssseceserserevsesnessssesasenenseasenne cesceccesccessesscsesecceccessessesecenseserseensersesseeneeaesneraeeneenees Mini Oil pressure (engine warm) At SOOO OM ceneenessssceessnsororosssceeessrconessencnsesensensonsenccnssenenengzseneces At IC ceeccocccee conncnecoveseneccsnscsncconesscevenssenereveceronstecscecreesaronssscnsoceses

122 cubic inches (2.0 liters) 134 cubic inches (2.2 liters) 96.8 cubic inches (1.6 liters)

171 psi 128 psi

178 psi 142 psi 191 psi

142 psi 36 to 71 psi 4.3 psi minimum

5 4 1 25 19 17

24 12 21 23 10

Chapter 2 PartB

2B-2

General engine overhaul procedures

Valves and related components Minimum valve margin width NyteRKGoce Exhaust

ee

an eee

ae Aig cosas? valanaonan ema waddamenoaadde cae

0.020 inch

QS=E ONIN kee:cnzvae--cerenss- conesle.o-tcntveess nn cesEa cdese sthatas senses Soran ace

0.039 inch

PAU OUR ONS Becvgeccscecs. terecenec tear secsn vee cscactene cate ctaasetrateces smmanieres

0.020 inch

Intake valve Stem diameter

PSE CMOS Se reraseece teeter eee eects catoe cesar bevnasens wap sec daswvis SS=GE OM GUe aateeeee serene sas secaeats ce ot ace ceeaeney ako cseWusdepouenseeae

0.3138 to 0.3144 inch 0.2346 to 0.2352 inch

3S-FE, 5S-FE and 4A-FE Engines .........::.s0rccssscesesssssesessns

0.2350 to 0.2356 inch

Stem-to-guide clearance Stam ancliesn sack eee eee sear ron acta Aiea Sea ateycvrvvthctrveaaesteene SOM ie irraty cease een ee cee see aa Ser vada ea askuetevesien

0.0010 to 0.0023 inch 0.0031 inch

Length 2S-E engine STAIN CLANG Beet cecine vac es ce veta eat susbarseees toed oa:kanedukGnaamaedeeuemsetes IUPUI ccecoehee Betetees ac ded ces soe os cece ewe oie dreanntnsideteee 3S-FE engine Stamanchic. eemere operas coeee aces Se eee sw scdvaseauve nanceceewneens INVITE: teonac creme east tas case aetoeon phe esteeat saan aneres eeamae ct cus 3S-GE engine SLAIN eae csace cas oee stacon aveeseongacs ear tetnpoctawte sesqsththexmetodriats IVAW TCIM Ree econo ae eee cee veseclaesace sageeme oon avas thes eovavecewce nonce

5S-FE engine Standard VOGGHANG! 199i)

4.319 inches 4.299 inches 3.9606 inches 3.9410 inches 4.0492 inches 4.0216 inches

lec cence ccs aah evade east oematroa rach steeecenes

3.9606 inches

OODiC hin eee xc aaah betNeca nastlag Wantishatede te auea baaeors Minimum POS ORANG OOMeese con cnn eee can sacscccumercnes ionesccees osss LO ARO Merete tenner RE Se, rac eeaticncla sets cavers teeewecceretuedeeaoe 4A-FE engine STAM CLEC SE eat ete cee tee seueate oe tent aaa se a tetcback acne sees IVUrvia On eee ee eee cater on:soe Fenye asensveeoeoead oeeene eva e

3.8425 inches

3.941 inches 3.823 inches 3.6004 inches 3.5807 inches

Exhaust valve Stem diameter

SyaE=VN OIG Meee et on Se ces vse e Sex anette net vena Tes esta aehsucunddesaveates asteannce SOc EMCI GNM eens tence nee eine ae ee cone ace eoteanee et Se CETOMIGUING sas coca nce Soc yt oath oenot geiey nc apes ageen ands semmapeeninan sts 5S-FE and GAGE :OMGINGS .ssea:.cces Si VI Vy

u

Magnet

es! )

| |

|

Differential

}

Oil Seal

4

Input Shaft Front Bearing —___—_@

‘

Side Bearing

Outer Race |

U Output Shaft Cover —66@ Output Shaft Front Bearing

O

6.4a

Differential Case Assembly

C-52 model transaxle case and related components

7A-6

Chapter 7 PartA

Manual transaxle

No. 1 Shift Fork

Screw Plug Spring Seat Spring

Snap Ring

Reverse Shift Arm

No. 3 Shift Fork Shaft

No. 3 Shift Fork Thrust Washer Idier Gear Shaft

:

Shift Head

agp

figeG)

amp

J

No. 2 Shift Fork

No. 2 Shift Fork Shaft

Cr yy

©&

Snap Ring

5th Driven Gear

Rear Bearing Retainer

Snap Ring

Spacer Needle Roller Bearing 5th Gear

Key Spring

Synchronizer Ring No. 3 Hub Sleeve

Snap Ring No. 3 Clutch Hub

6.4b

Exploded view of the input and output shafts and shift mechanism components - C-52 transaxle

Chapter 7 Part A selfer. It involves the disassembly and reassembly of many small parts. Numerous clearances must be precisely measured and, if necessary, changed with select fit spacers and snap-rings. As a result, if transaxle problems arise, it can be removed and installed by a competent do-ityourselfer, but overhaul should be left to a transmission repair shop. Rebuilt transaxles may be available - check with your dealer parts department and auto parts stores. At any rate, the time and money involved in an overhaul is almost sure to exceed the cost of a rebuilt unit. 2 Nevertheless, it’s not impossible for an inexperienced mechanic to rebuild a transaxle if the special tools are available and the job is done in a deliberate step-by-step manner so nothing is overlooked. 3 ‘The tools necessary for an overhaul include internal and external snap-ring pliers, a bearing puller, a slide hammer, a set of pin

7A-7

Manual transaxle

punches, adial indicator and possibly a hydraulic press. In addition, a

large, sturdy workbench and a vise or transaxle stand will be required. During disassembly of the transaxle, make careful notes of how 4 each piece comes off, where it fits in relation to other pieces and what holds it in place. Exploded views are included (see illustrations) to show where the parts go - but actually noting how they are installed when you remove the parts will make it much easier to get the transaxle back together. 5 Before taking the transaxle apart for repair, it will help if you have some idea what area of the transaxle is malfunctioning. Certain problems can be closely tied to specific areas in the transaxle, which can make component examination and replacement easier. Refer to the Troubleshooting section at the front of this manual for information regarding possible sources of trouble.

Reverse Restrict Pin

No. 2 Oil Receiver Pipe

Slotted Spring Pin Screw Plug

Outer

Lock Ball Assembly

Shift and Select Lever Assembly

Race

Plate Washer

Oil Seal

Transmission Case Cover

Transmission Case

6.4c

a

C-52 model transaxle case and related components

>--—->-—-y——

a

7A-8

Chapter 7 PartA

Manual transaxle

Release Bearing Retainer |

Shift and Select Lever Assembly

ce)

Socom aeons

| |

Back-up Light Switch Reverse Restrict Holder

Reverse Restrict Pin

e

Lo!

BH&

Lock Ball

©

pis

:

Shim O-Ring Differential Side Bearing Retainer

x|

¢

pe

Ai

—

Go

C

i

Pz

xb

.

a

a

i)

ee

Yl %® z

()

i

ce

ON

® Release

Fork

SS i

Transmission

t

Py

I

Needle

Pie

~

SS

~

SS 3

Ww

1G),

Roller Bearing

& Sy NG

a

/

az ~s

Lock

AW

ie

“wy

~

| Retainer . Rear Bearing

Ring——\

©

b

Sleeve No.3

om WW

>

\

fe C

Case Cover

eae

(|

Shifting Key Retainer and Snap Ring

Transmission




| | | | !

Snap Ring

< =

Shift Fork No.3

Hub

NN =

Bolt

I

Nee

A

5th cree RCSS& Synchronizer

|

Case Protecter

=

I! (

Spacer—>

ey,

ae

fs pete !

.

SS

S-53 model transaxle case and related components

~

XN

N

XN

Spuruca.taass GNOAGie COG Oicaceyvarti uedcap or eas aebcais ipep'oc Gcnvtadansaecerundenbarshanyasiaxees SlOoi seteies ee. derscos nusvgou ee seen eeMnaeintaa ob altsabawisWseslb caer axeusnncsansenae Strut-to-suspension support (damper shaft) NUt.........cesssesseeeees

59 34

152 188 224 94 93 82 93 76 72 76 101 156 101 154 IZ

154 Die

aia =D 17 23 29 36

Mt

1g 17 7 15 16 3 10 12 4 18 23 22

Chapter 10

10-2

Suspension and steering systems

Strut-to-axle carrier nuts/bolts

NOSE thrOUOhin] QGSaercs TOSS ax ck. een

eee

core nc, oeepters

Remove the spring seat from the damper shaft

4 Loosen the damper shaft nut with a socket wrench (see illustration). 5 Remove the nut and suspension support (see illustration). Inspect the bearing in the suspension support for smooth operation. If it doesn’t turn smoothly, replace the suspension support. Check the rubber portion of the suspension support for cracking and general deterioration. If there is any separation of the rubber, replace it. 6 Lift the spring seat and upper insulator from the damper shaft (see illustration). Check the rubber spring seat for cracking and hardness, replacing it if necessary. 7 Carefully lift the compressed spring from the assembly (see illustration) and set it in a safe place, such as a steel cabinet. Warning: Never place your head near the end of the spring!

4.11

When installing the spring, make sure the end fits into the recessed portion of the lower seat (arrow)

4.7

Remove the compressed spring assembly - keep the ends of the spring pointed away from your body

8 Slide the rubber bumper off the damper shaft. 9 Check the lower insulator for wear, cracking and hardness and replace it if necessary.

Reassembly 10 If the lower insulator is being replaced, set it into position with the dropped portion seated in the lowest part of the seat. Extend the damper rod to its full length and install the rubber bumper. 11. Carefully place the coil spring onto the lower insulator, with the end of the spring resting in the lowest part of the insulator (see illustration). 12 Install the upper insulator and spring seat, making sure that the

4.12a

The flats on the damper shaft (arrow) must match up with the flats in the spring seat

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

10-7

Outside

4.12b

The OUT mark on the spring seat must face the strut bracket opening

=

5.2b

Usea

es

Z

——

ee

|

bar to separate the balljoint from the control pry Mm J 4 any

5.4

Remove the nut and washer from the control arm shaft

5.5

Remove the damper plate bolts (arrows) and detach the

flats in the hole in the seat match up with the flats on the damper shaft (see illustrations). Also make sure that the “OUT” marking on the spring seat faces toward the lower bracket, where the steering knuckle fits (see illustration). 13 Install the dust seal and suspension support to the damper shaft. 14 Install the nut and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 15 Install the strut/shock absorber and coil spring assembly following the procedure outlined previously (see Section 3).

5

Control arm - removal, inspection and installation

damper plate from the vehicle (1990 and later models only) Refer to illustrations 5.2a, 5.2b, 5.4, 5.5, 5.6, 5.7, 5.9 and 5.10

Removal Loosen the wheel lug nuts on the side to be dismantled, raise the 1 ‘front of the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands and remove the wheel. Remove the bolt and two nuts holding the control arm to the 2 steering knuckle. Use a prybar to disconnect the control arm from the steering knuckle (see illustrations). If you’re removing the left side control arm on a vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the suspension crossmember (see illustration 1.1). Remove the nut from the stabilizer bar link and disconnect the 3 link from the control arm (see illustration 2.2). Remove the nut and washer from the control arm shaft (if you’re 4 removing the left control arm on a vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission, ignore this step and proceed to the next step) (see illus-

es 4 tration). If you’re working ona 1990 or later model, unscrew the two bolts 5 and remove the control arm damper plate (see illustration). Remove the two bolts at the rear of the control arm bracket (see 2 6

illustration).

5.6

a ghee

~ Remove the bracket bolts at the control

a

ne pivot

Chapter 10

5.7 If you’re removing the left control arm on a vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission, the control arm shaft must be removed with the

Suspension and steering systems

5.9 Install the new washer on the trailing end of the lower arm with the beveled side facing the front of the vehicle

washer on the 5.10 Install the forward shaft, with the beveled side facing the rear of the vehicle

control arm

7 Thecontrol arm can now be removed, unless you're removing the left control arm on a vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission, in which case the control arm shaft must first be unbolted (see illustration).

Inspection 8 Check the control arm for distortion and the bushings for wear, replacing parts as necessary. Do not attempt to straighten a bent control arm.

Installation 9 Install the new washer at the rear bracket with the beveled side towards the front of the vehicle (see illustration). 10 Install the new washer on the control arm shaft with the beveled side towards the rear of the vehicle (see illustration).

11. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten all of the fasteners to the torque values listed.in this Chapter’s Specifications. 12 Install the wheel and lug nuts, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. 13. It’s a good idea to have the front wheel alignment checked, and if necessary, adjusted after this job has been performed.

6 = Balljoints - replacement 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel. 2 Remove the cotter pin (if equipped) from the balljoint stud and loosen the nut (but don’t remove it yet).

3 Separate the balljoint from the steering knuckle with a pickleforktype balljoint separator. Lubricate the rubber boot with grease and work carefully, so as not to tear the boot. Remove the balljoint stud nut. “ ‘4 Remove the bolt and nuts securing the balljoint to the control arm. Separate the balljoint from the control arm with a prybar (see illustration 5.2b). 5 To install the balljoint, position it on the steering knuckle and install the nut, but don’t tighten it yet. 6 Attach the balljoint to the control arm and install the bolt and nuts, tightening them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. ° \7 Tighten the balljoint stud nut ggtthe torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications and install a new: cotter pin. If the cotter pin hole oesn’t line up with the slots on the nut, tighten the nut additionally

til it does line up - don’t loosen the nut to insert the cotter pin. ~ Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the

ig nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

7

Steering knuckle and hub - removal and installation

Warning: Dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don’t inhale any of it..Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only.

Removal 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel. 2 Remove the brake caliper and support it with a piece of wire as described in Chapter 9. Remove the caliper mount, separate the brake disc from the hub, then loosen the hub nut (see Chapter 8).

3 If you’re working on a 1989 or earlier model, mark the relationship of the strut to the steering knuckle and the camber adjuster (see illustration 3.2). This will simplify reassembly. : 4 Loosen, but do not remove the strut-to-steering knuckle bolts (see illustration 3.4).

5 tion 6 5.2a 7 port 8 arm.

Separate the tie-rod from the steering knuckle arm (see Sec18). Remove the balljoint-to-lower arm bolt and nuts (see illustration and 5.2b). The strut-to-knuckle bolts can now be removed.

Push the driveaxle from the hub as described in Chapter 8. Supthe end of the driveaxle with a piece of wire. Carefully separate the steering knuckle from the strut and lower

Installation 9 Guide the knuckle and hub assembly into position, inserting the driveaxle into the hub.

10

If you’re working on a 1989 or earlier model, install the camber

adjuster into the knuckle (if removed).

11 Push the knuckle into the strut flange and install the bolts and nuts, but don’t tighten them yet. 12 Connect the balljoint to the control arm and install the bolt and nuts (don’t tighten them yet). 13 Attach the tie-rod to the steering knuckle arm (see Section 18). Tighten the strut bolt nuts, the balljoint-to-control arm bolt and nuts and the tie-rod nut to the torque values listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 14 Place the brake disc on the hub and install the caliper as outlined

in Chapter 9. 15__ Install the hub nut and tighten it to the torque listed in the Chapter 8 Specifications. 16 __ Install the wheel and lug nuts. 17 Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in = the Chapter 1 Specifications. S

=,

3

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

10-9

a

9.1 Remove the nuts from the lower end of the stabilizer bar links te,

©

9.2 8

a

ee

Each stabilizer bar bracket is retained by two bolts

~~

#

Front hub and bearing assembly - removal and installation

Due to the special tools and expertise required to press thehub = =5 Check the bushings for wear, hardness, distortion, cracking and ther signs of deterioration, replacing them if necessary. Also check this job should be lefttoapro- — the and bearing from the steering knuckle, link bushings for these signs. steering knuckle and hub may be

fessiona! mechanic. However, the removed and the assembly taken toa dealer service department or

6

Using a wire brush, clean the areas of the bar where the bushings

other repair shop. See Section 7 for the steering knuckle and hub re- — ride. installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. If necessary,

use a light coat of vegetable oil to ease bushing and U-bracket instal-

moval procedure.

lation (don’t use petroleum based products or brake fluid, as these will

damage the rubber). 9 _ Rear stabilizer bar and bushings - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 9.1 and 9.2 Remove the stabilizer bar link-to-stabilizer bar nuts (see illustra1 tion). Unbolt the stabilizer bar brackets from the body (see illustra2

tion). 3

Using a floor jack and a block of wood, support the fuel tank and

remove the two fuel tank band bolts (see Chapter 4). Allow the bands to hang down and lower the fuel tank about 1-1/2 to 2 inches. The stabilizer bar can now be rernoved from the vehicle. Pull the 4

U-brackets off the stabilizer bar (if they haven’t fallen off already) using

a rocking motion.

Ss

((((

10

Strut assembly (rear) - removal, inspection and installation -

Removal

Refer to illustrations 10.3a, 10.3b, 10.4, 10.6 and 10.7 1

curely on jackstands. Remove the wheel. Unscrew the brake line from the wheel cylinder (or caliper). Use a 2 flare nut wrench to avoid rounding off the corners of the nut.

Disconnect the brake line from the flexible hose at the strut 3 bracket (see illustrations). Again, the use of a flare nut wrench is rec- _

é

10.3a

B

x

Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it se-

Toe-in Adjusting Cam

th

see

Exploded view of the rear suspension

(1989 and earlier models shown, later é

models similar)

10-10

10.3b

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

Use a flare nut wrench when disconnecting the brake line from the brake hose at the strut bracket

10.4 Use a pair of pliers to remove the retaining clip from the brake hose bracket on the strut, then pull the hose through the bracket

Lift-back

See

10.6

10.7 The speaker grille (liftback models) or access cover (coupe models) must be removed to get at the strut upper mounting nuts

Remove the strut-to-axle carrier bolts and nuts

ommended. Plug the hose end or wrap a plastic bag tightly around the end of the hose to prevent excessive leakage and contamination. 4 Remove the brake hose clip from the strut bracket with a pair of pliers (see illustration), then pull the hose through the bracket. If the vehicle is equipped with ABS, detach the speed sensor wiring harness from the strut. 5 Disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the strut bracket. 6 Support the axle carrier with a floor jack, then remove the two strut-to-axle carrier nuts and bolts (see illustration). 7 On 1989 and earlier models, remove the speaker grille (liftback models) or the access panel in the trunk (coupe models) (see illustration). On 1990 and later models, remove the speaker grille (liftback models) or the panel between the rear seat back and the rear window. 8 Unscrew the three strut upper mounting nuts while an assistant supports the strut so it doesn’t fall. Guide the strut out of the fenderwell.

Inspection Refer to illustration 10.10 9 Follow the inspection procedures described in Section 3. If it is determined that the strut assembly must be disassembled for replacement of the strut or the coil spring, refer to Section 4. 10 When reassembling the strut, make sure the suspension support is aligned with the lower bracket (where the axle carrier fits) (see illustration).

Installation 11 Maneuver the assembly up into the fenderwell and insert the mounting studs through the holes in the body. Install the nuts, but don’t tighten them yet.

Lower Bracket

Suspension Support

10.10 The bolt hole in the suspension support that is farthest away from the other two must be aligned with the opening in the strut bracket eee

12 Push the axle carrier into the strut lower bracket and install the bolts and nuts, tightening them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 13 Connect the stabilizer bar link to the strut bracket. 14 Route the brake hose through its bracket on the strut and connect the brake line, tightening it securely. Connect the other end of the line to the wheel cylinder (or caliper). 15 Install the wheel and iug nuts, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. q

16

Tighten the three strut upper mounting nuts to the torque listed in

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

10-11

a

11.3a

Remove the nut from the suspension arm-to-rear axle carrier bolt...

}

11.3b

...

then drive the bolt through the axle carrier with a hammer and punch

this Chapter’s Specifications. 17 Bleed the wheel cylinder (or caliper) following the procedure de-

scribed inChapter 9.

141

Rear suspension arms - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 11.2, 11.3a, 11.3b, 11.4, 11.5, 11.6, 11.8a and

11.8b

Removal Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jack1 stands. Block the front wheels. Disconnect the strut rod from the axle carrier (see illustration). 2 Remove the suspension arm-to-axle carrier bolt and nut (see il3 lustrations). If one of the number two suspension arms is being removed (see 4

illustration 1.2), mark the relationship of the toe adjuster cam to the suspension arm inner mounting bracket (see illustration). This will ensure the toe adjustment will be returned to the same setting. Using a screwdriver, pry the plastic cover from its hole in the sub5 frame to gain access to the suspension arm inner mounting nuts (see illustration).

r

me

.

ane

fs

r

i

Mark the relationship of the toe adjusting cam to the inner 11.4 mounting bracket of the number two rear suspension arm

10-12

11.6...

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

then unscrew the inner mounting bolt and nut

6

Remove the inner mounting bolt and nut while supporting the suspension arm (see illustration). 7 Remove the suspension arm from the vehicle.

11.8a The stamped arms are marked as to which side of the vehicle they are installed on - the slits in the bushings also face toward the rear (1989 and earlier models)

Installation 8 Position the suspension arm with the slits in the bushings facing the rear. The stamped arms are marked L or R. The tubular arms have a small spot of paint that must be on the wheel end of the arm when installed (see illustrations). Install the inner mounting bolt finger tight. 9 Insert the suspension arm-to-axle carrier bolt through the arms and carrier from the front. Install the nut and washer and tighten the nut hand tight. 10 Connect the strut rod to the axle carrier, tightening the nut hand tight only. 11. Place a jack under the axle carrier and raise it to simulate normal ride height. 12 If you’re installing a number two suspension arm, align the previously applied matchmarks on the toe adjuster cam and the inner mounting bracket. Tighten the inner mounting bolt and nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Be sure to align the marks on the toe adjuster and body. 13 Tighten the suspension arm-to-axle carrier bolt/nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 14 Tighten the strut rod bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 15 Install the wheel and lug nuts, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. 16 Have the rear wheel alignment checked by a dealer service department or an alignment shop.

12

——

Out Side

Paint 11.8b The tubular arms have a dot of paint that must be situated on the outer end of the arm - the slits in the bushings also face toward the rear

Strut rod - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 12.3 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel. nh Remove the strut rod-to-axle carrier bolt (see illustration 11.2). It

isn’t necessary to hold the nut with a wrench, because the nut has a tang attached to it to prevent rotation. 3 Remove the strut rod-to-body bracket bolt (see illustration) and detach the rod from the vehicle. 4 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Be sure to tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

13

Rear hub and bearing assembly - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 13.3 and 13.5 Warning: Dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don’t inhale any of it. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or

12.3.

Remove the strut rod-to-frame bolt and nut

denatured alcohol only. Note: Due to the special tools required to replace the bearing, the hub and bearing assembly should not be disassembled by the home mechanic. The assembly can be removed, however, and taken to a dealer service department or other repair shop to have the bearing replaced.

Removal 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely rijackstands. Remove the wheel. 2 Pull | the brake drum (or disc) from the hub. If difficulty is encoun-

tered, refer to Chapter 9 for the removal procedure.

Chapter 10

10-13

Suspension and steering systems

13.3. The rear hub and bearing assembly is held to the axle carrier with four bolts - turn the hub flange so the hole lines up with each bolt, then remove the bolt with a socket and extension

3 Remove the the hub flange so illustration). 4 Remove the ing it out through

four hub-to-axle carrier bolts, accessible by turning that the large circular cutout exposes each bolt (see hub and bearing assembly from its seat, maneuverthe brake assembly.

Installation 5 Remove the old O-ring from the hub seat and install a new one (see illustration). ‘ Position the hub and bearing assembly on the axle carrier and 6 align the holes in the backing plate. Install the bolts. A magnet is useful in guiding the bolts through the hub flange and into position. After all four bolts have been installed, tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Install the brake drum (or disc) and wheel. Lower the vehicle and 7 tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. eT

14

Rear axle carrier - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 14.4 Warning: Dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don’t inhale any of it. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only.

Removal Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it on 1 jackstands. Block the front wheels and remove the rear wheel. Remove the rear brake drum (or disc) (refer to Chapter 9). 2 Disconnect the brake line from the wheel cylinder (or caliper), us3 ing a flare nut wrench to prevent rounding off the tube nut corners. Remove the rear hub and bearing assembly following the proce4 dure described in Section 13. Detach the backing plate and rear brake assembly from the axle carrier and suspend it with a piece of wire from the spring (drum brake models only). It isn’t necessary to remove the parking brake cable from the backing plate (see illustration). Loosen, but don’t remove the strut-to-axle carrier bolts (see il5 lustration 10.6). Remove the suspension arm-to-axle carrier bolt, nut and washers 6 (see illustrations 11.3b and 11 3b). Remove the rear strut-rod bolt (see illustration 11.2). 7 Remove the previously loosened strut-to-axle carrier bolts while 8 supporting the carrier so it doesn’t fall. Detach the axle carrier from the strut bracket. 9

Ae

a

i

re

14.4 Once the hub and bearing assembly has been removed, slide the brake backing plate (with the brake shoes still attached) off the axle carrier and hang it from the coil spring with a piece of wire (vehicles with rear drum brakes only)

Installation 10 Inspect the carrier bushing for cracks, deformation and signs of wear. If it is worn out, take the carrier to a dealer service department or other repair shop to have the old one pressed out and a new one pressed in. 11. Push the axle carrier into the strut bracket, aligning the two bolt holes. Insert the two strut-to-carrier bolts and tighten them finger tight. 12 Install the suspension arm-to-axle carrier bolt (from the front), washers and nut. Tighten the nut by hand. 13 Place ajack under the carrier and raise it to simulate normal ride —

height. 14 Tighten the strut-to-carrier bolts to the torque listed in this Chap- © ter’s Specifications. 15. Connect the strut rod and tighten the bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 16 Tighten the suspension arm bolt/nut to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 17 Attach the brake backing plate to the axle carrier, install the hub and tighten the four bolts securely. 148 Connect the brake tube to the wheel cylinder. Be careful not to damage the line when bending it back into place. 19 Install the rear brake drum (or disc) (Chapter 9). Shy ep

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems 15

Steering system - general information

All models are equipped with rack-and-pinion steering. The steering gear is bolted to the firewall and operates the steering arms via tierods. The inner ends of the tie-rods are protected by rubber boots which should be inspected periodically for secure attachment, tears and leaking lubricant. The power assist system consists of a belt-driven pump and associated lines and hoses. The fluid level in the power steering pump reservoir should be checked periodically (see Chapter 1). The steering wheel operates the steering shaft, which actuates the steering gear through universal joints. Looseness in the steering can be caused by wear in the steering shaft universal joints, the steering gear, the tie-rod ends and loose retaining bolts.

16 16.2a

Remove the screws holding the horn pad

20 ‘Install the wheel and lug nuts. 21 Bleed the wheel cylinder or caliper (see Chapter 9). 22 Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

Steering wheel - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 16.2a, 16.2b, 1 6.3 and 16.4

Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with an airbag DO NOT attempt to remove the steering wheel. Have it removed by a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.

Removal 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Caution: /f the stereo in your vehicle is equipped with an anti-theft system, refer to the information on page 0-15 at the front of this manual before detaching the cable. 2 Remove the screws from the bottom of the horn pad and pull the pad from the steering wheel (see illustration). Disconnect the wire to the horn switch (see illustration). 3 Remove the steering wheel retaining nut, then mark the relationship of the steering shaft to the hub (if marks don’t already exist or don’t line up) to simplify installation and ensure steering wheel alignment (see illustration). 4 Use a puller to disconnect the steering wheel from the shaft (see illustration).

Installation 5 ‘the and 6 7

16.3 Using a marking pen or a scribe, apply alignment marks from the steering wheel hub to the steering shaft (arrows)

Toinstall the wheel, align the mark on the steering wheel hub with mark on the shaft and slip the wheel onto the shaft. Install the nut tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Connect the horn wire and install the horn pad. Connect the negative battery cable.

16.4

Use a steering wheel puller to separate the steering wheel from the shaft - DON’T attempt to remove the wheel with a hammer

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

8

17.7.

17.3. Mark the relationship of the steering shaft-to-steering gear input shaft, then remove the U-joint bolt (arrow) (engine removed for clarity)

-

ae

ac

3

em

Location of the steering gear housing bracket bolts (arrows) (engine removed for clarity)

Installation 17

Steering gear - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 17.3 and 17.7

Removal 1 _ Loosen the front wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and remove the wheels. Remove the engine under covers on models so equipped. 2 Place a drain pan under the steering gear. Detach the power steering pressure and return lines and cap the ends to prevent exces-

sive fluid loss and contamination.

_

3 Mark the relationship of the lower universal joint to the steering gear input shaft. Remove the lower intermediate shaft pinch bolt (see illustration). 4 Separate the tie-rod ends from the steering knuckle arms (see

Section 18). Support the engine with afloor jack and a block of wood, then re5 move the suspension crossmember and the engine center mounting member (see Section 2). On some models you'll also have to unbolt the engine/transaxle rear mounting bracket from the engine (see Chapter 2). If you’re working on a 1989 or earlier model, disconnect the ex6 haust pipe from the manifold and allow it to hang down (see Chapter 4). Support the steering gear and remove the steering gear bracket7 to-firewall mounting bolts (see illustration). Separate the intermediate shaft from the steering gear input shaft, move the unit to the right as far as it will go, then lower it down and pull it out toward the left. Check the steering gear mounting grommets for excessive wear 8 or deterioration, replacing them if necessary.

Loosen the jam nutwhile holding the tie-rod with a 18.2a rod to wrench (ora pair of locking pliers) on the flat portion of the prevent it from turning *

9 Raise the steering gear into position and connect the U-joint, aligning the marks. 10 Install the mounting brackets and bolts and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 11 Connect the tie-rod ends to the steering knuckle arms (see Section 18). 12 Install the U-joint pinch bolt and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. ' 13. Connect the power steering pressure and return hoses to the steering gear and fill the power steering pump reservoir with the recommended fluid (see Chapter 1). 14 Install the engine rear mounting bracket, tightening the bolts securely. 15 Install the engine center mounting member and suspension crossmember. 16 Lower the vehicle and bleed the steering system (see Section 21).

18

Tie-rod ends - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 18.2a, 18.2b and 18.4

Removal 1 Loosen the wheel lug nuts. Raise the front of the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands, block the rear wheels and set the parking brake. Remove the front wheel. 2 Hold the tie-rod with a pair of locking pliers or wrench and loosen the jam nut enough to mark the position of the tie-rod end in relation to the threads (see illustrations).

rs 18.2b

i Mark the relationship of the tie-rod end to the tie-rod (arrow)

=

10-16

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

Es

20.4

18.4 A two-jaw puller works well for separating the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle arm - note that the nut has been loosened, but not removed (it will prevent the two components from separating violently)

Blieteiy

Loosen the clamp and detach the power steering pump return line (arrow)

10 20.8 Power steering pump and related components (1986 through 1988 models) Return hose Bolt Drivebelt Lower engine cover - right side Bolt Vacuum hoses Suspension crossmember Power steering pump Copper gaskets ~ SOANDAAWN™ Pressure line\

3 Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the tie-rod end stud. 4 Disconnect the tie-rod from the steering knuckle arm with a puller (see illustration). Remove the nut and separate the tie-rod. 5 _Unscrew the tie-rod end from the tie-rod.

Installation 6 Thread the tie-rod end on to the marked position and insert the tie-rod stud into the steering knuckle arm. Tighten the jam nut securely. 7 Install the castellated nut on the stud and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Install a new cotter pin. 8 Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications. 9 Have the alignment checked by a dealer service department or an alignment shop.

—— 19

Steering gear boots - replacement

nn

1 Loosen the lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel. 2 Remove the tie-rod end and jam nut (see Section 18). 3 Remove the steering gear boot clamps and slide the boot off. 4 Before installing the new boot, wrap the threads and serrations on the end of the steering rod with a layer of tape so the small end of the new boot isn’t damaged. 5 Slide the new boot into position on the steering gear until it seats in the groove in the steering rod and instal! new clamps. 6 Remove the tape and install the tie-rod end (see Section 18). 7 Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

10-17

taching the cable.

2

Using a large syringe or suction gun, suck as much fluid out of

the power steering fluid reservoir as possible. Place a drain pan under the vehicle to catch any fluid that spills out when the hoses are disconnected. 3 Loosen the right front wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the right front wheel.

4 Loosen the clamp and disconnect the fluid return hose from the pump (see illustration). 5 Remove the right lower engine under cover.

1986 through 1988 models

20.9

Power steering pump mounting bolts (arrows)

Refer to illustrations 20.8 and 20.9 6 Remove the suspension crossmember (see illustration 1.1). 7 Remove the pressure line-to-pump union bolt and separate the line from the pump. Remove the copper sealing washers on each side of the fitting - these should be replaced when installing the pump. 8 Loosen the pivot and adjuster bolt and remove the drivebelt (see illustration). 9 Remove the pivot, adjuster and upper mounting bolts (see illustration), and lower the pump from the vehicle.

1989 models

20

Power steering pump - removal and installation

Removal Refer to illustration 20.4 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is equipped with an anti-theft system, refer to the information on page 0-15 at the front of this manual before de-

Refer to illustration 20.14 10 See steps 1 through 5. 11. Remove the union bolt and disconnect the pressure line from the pump. Unplug the vacuum lines from the switch at the bottom of the

pump. 12 Loosen the pivot and adjusting bolts and remove the drivebelt. 13 Disconnect the right side tie-rod end (see Section 18). 14 Remove the pivot, adjusting and upper mounting bolts (see illustration). 15 Remove the power steering pump through the tie-rod end hole.

20.14 Power steering pump and related components (1989 models) Return line Drivebelt Vacuum hoses Tie-rod end WDM aR Lower engine cover (right side) a Suspension crossmember 7 Transmission case protector 8 Rear pump bracket 9 Adjuster bolt 10 ~~ Pivot bolt 171. Pump adjuster bracket 12 Power steering pump 13 Copper gaskets 14 Pressure hose

10-18

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

20.20a Power steering pump and related components (1990 and later models with the 4AFE engine)

Pressure line Copper gaskets Adjuster bolt Pivot bolt Drivebelt Air hose Power steering pump Return hose ANDAaAAWNMH

20.20b Power steering pump and related components (1990 and later models with the 5S-FE or 3S-GTE engines)

Pressure hose Return hose Bolt Drivebelt Bolt Vacuum hose WH NOAA — Lower engine under cover (right side) Suspension crossmember Power steering pump oS© Copper gaskets

Chapter 10

10-19

Suspension and steering systems CASTER

METRIC TIRE SIZES vi 185 / im R eee

TIRE TYPE / P - PASSENGER seals RATIO ae T- TEMPORARY / (SECTION HEIGHT) C- COMMERCIAL “sisoaageea WIDTH) SECTION WIDTH (MILLIMETERS) be ccnaetinicrion TYPE a R - RADIAL e B - BIAS-BELTED ETC

D - DIAGONAL (BIAS)

FRONT a VEHICLE

a

rire IN (¥-X)

22.1

23.1

Metric tire size code

1990 and later models Refer to illustrations 20.20a and 20.20b 16 Seesteps 1 through 5. 17. Remove the union bolt and disconnect the pressure line from the pump. 18 Loosen the pivot and adjusting bolts and remove the drivebelt. 19 Remove the pulley nut or bolt and remove the power steering pump pulley. 20 Remove the pivot, adjusting and upper mounting bolts (see illustrations). 21 Remove the power steering pump through the tie-rod end hole.

Installation 22 To install the pump, reverse the removal procedure. Tighten the banjo fitting bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Adjust the drivebelt tension following the procedure described in Chapter 1. 23 Top up the fluid level in the reservoir (see Chapter 1) and bleed the system (see Section 21). a

21

Power steering system - bleeding

rar heel een eeee

ee

Oe

ee

Se

Following any operation in which the power steering fluid lines 1 have been disconnected, the power steering system must be bled to remove all air and obtain proper steering performance. With the front wheels in the straight ahead position, check the 2 power steering fluid level and, if low, add fluid until it reaches the Cold mark on the dipstick. Start the engine and allow it to run at fast idle. Recheck the fluid 3. level and add more if necessary to reach the Cold mark on the dipstick. 4 _ Bleed the system by turning the wheels from side to side, without hitting the stops. This will work the air out of the system. Keep the

reservoir full of fluid as this is done. When the air is worked out of the system, return the wheels to the straight ahead position and leave the vehicle running for several more minutes before shutting it off. Road test the vehicle to be sure the steering system is function6 5

Camber, caster and toe-in angles

ing normally and noise free. 7 Recheck the fluid level to be sure it is up to the Hot mark on the dipstick while the engine is at normal operating temperature. Add fluid if necessary (see Chapter 1).

22

Wheels and tires - general information

Refer to illustration 22.1 1 All vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with metricsized fiberglass or steel belted radial tires (see illustration). Use of other size or type of tires may affect the ride and handling of the vehicle. Don’t mix different types of tires, such as radials and bias belted, on the same vehicle as handling may be seriously affected. It’s recommended that tires be replaced in pairs on the same axle, but if only one tire is being replaced, be sure it’s the same size, structure and tread design as the other. 2 Because tire pressure has a substantial effect on handling and wear, the pressure on all tires should be checked at least once a month or before any extended trips (see Chapter 1). 3. Wheels must be replaced if they are bent, dented, leak air, have elongated bolt holes, are heavily rusted, out of vertical symmetry or if the lug nuts won’t stay tight. Wheel repairs that use welding or peening are not recommended. 4 Tire and wheel balance is important in the overall handling, braking and performance of the vehicle. Unbalanced wheels can adversely affect handling and ride characteristics as well as tire life. Whenever a tire is installed on a wheel, the tire and wheel should be balanced by a shop with the proper equipment.

23

Wheel alignment - general information

Refer to illustration 23.1 A wheel alignment refers to the adjustments mads to the wheels so they are in proper angular relationship to the suspension and the ground. Wheels that are out of proper alignment not only affect vehicle control, but also increase tire wear. The front end angles normally measured are camber, caster and toe-in (see illustration). Camber and toe-in are adjustable on 1989 and earlier models. Toe-in is the

10-20

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

only adjustable angle on 1990 and later models. The only adjustment

possible on the rear is toe-in. The other angles should be measured to check for bent or worn suspension parts.

Getting the proper wheel alignment is a very exacting process, one in which complicated and expensive machines are necessary to perform the job properly. Because of this, you should have a technician with the proper equipment perform these tasks. We will, however, use this space to give you a basic idea of what is involved with a wheel

alignment so you can better understand the process and deal intelligently with the shop that does the work. Toe-in is the turning in of the wheels. The purpose of a toe specification is to ensure parallel rolling of the wheels. In a vehicle with zero toe-in, the distance between the front edges of the wheels will be the same as the distance between the rear edges of the wheels. The actual amount of toe-in is normally only a fraction of an inch. On the front

end, toe-in is controlled by the tie-rod end position on the tie-rod. On

the rear end, it’s controlled by a cam on the inner end of the rear (num-

ber two) suspension arm. Incorrect toe-in will cause the tires to wear improperly by making them scrub against the road surface. Camber is the tilting of the wheels from vertical when viewed from one end of the vehicle. When the wheels tilt out at the top, the camber is said to be positive (+). When the wheels tilt in at the top the camber is negative (-). The amount of tilt is measured in degrees from vertical and this measurement is called the camber angle. This angle affects the amount of tire tread which contacts the road and compensates for changes in the suspension geometry when the vehicle is cornering or traveling over an undulating surface. Caster is the tilting of the front steering axis from the vertical. A tilt toward the rear is positive caster and a tilt toward the front is negative caster.

Chapter 11 Body Contents ESOC exITIQNMLOM RICO wcrc cn ts cnc paon case nuncsanses yeugeeencerazad suavweesnaans sverect nates Body repair - major damage............ 1Sagas AMM erascay la death ocean Body repair =|minOr Gamage acces ...065-2.2.c8sucescscagedas. stoptacian cantedcone sss Console and center trim panel - removal and installation.............. Convertible top - general information ...........:cccceessceessseeeenteeeeeaeees Door glass regulator - removal and installation .............eeeeeeeeeee

2 6 5 24 28 17

Door latch, lock cylinder and handle - removal,

Histallation-and:adjustment 2-240 neni a ee Rae Door - removal, installation and adjustMent ................::::seseeeeeeeeees Door trim panel - removal and installation .............::cceseseeseeeeeeees Door window glass - removal and installation .............::cceseseeeeeees Front and rear bumper - removal and installation.............c:cseee

INS MIMO a scr ie eg teioxsap equalities fea gitnidesignnt thes anteapeintcsesieacerpe Glovebox - removal and installation...........::::eseceseeesesseceseenenreeenens Hinges and locks - MaiNteNANCE............cesssecsseserecseseeseerereeerseneens

—s

15 14 13 16 18 1 22

9 21 19 27 26

Seats =removaland jinstallatiom sesxvazscsesccsveseocsssanesevareaesvervaracce-otente Speaker covers - removal and installation ..............c:ccssccceseeeeeeees Steering column cover and panel - removal and installation......... Support strut ireplaCem ember. soc. s

No.2, D Fan No.1 relay No.2, C Headlight control relay No.4, C Heater circuit breaker No.4, B Heater relay No.4, A Horn relay Power window circuit breaker _ No.1, 3 No.1, B Taillight control relay No.1, C Turn signal flasher relay

A B C D 7 A 2 A B

6)

(5)

ee

aie

ee

ee

(8) 6.2d

1. 2 3 4

No.1 fuse and relay block Battery No.2 fuse and junction block No.5 relay block

Typical fuse and relay locations (1990 through 1992 models) No.4 fuse and relay block 5 6 No.3 relay block 7 No.2 relay block No.1 junction block 8

12-6

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

Junction block no. 1

and relay block no. 1 Front Side

Junction block no. 2

Back Side

Relay Block No. 1

Junction Block No. 1

Relay block no. 5

Relay block no. 2

Relay block no. 3

PERE RREETE?

6.2e Relay

17

Individual relay location (1990 through 1992 models)

Relay block

AIC fan No.2 relay A/C fan No.3 relay A/C MG Defogger relay Front fog light control relay Heater main relay

Relay

No.5 No.5 No.5 No.1 No.3 No.4

Relay block

Sub fan Taillight relay Turn signal flasher relay oh Engine main relay

Horn relay Power main Starter relay

No.5 B No.1 C No.1 A : oe aa mack No.2B

No.5 E No.2 A No.4 A

Fan No.1 relay Headlight control relay Integration

No.2 A No.2 D No.1 D

A C D B B B

Remove the four rear retention screws and gently pry the connec-

tion free; (see illustrations). : P. 2 aT 18 Disconnect the switch wiring terminals from the combination switch electrical connector (see Steps 19 through 23). Installation is the reverse of removal.

Electrical connectors Refer to illustrations 8.20, 8.21a, 8.21b and 8.22 19: Trace thawinneh fi th tele di eaentanat it - er reap ey cn be disconnected to the

nation switch

electrical connector.

It may be necessary to de-

Chapter 12

8.4

Chassis electrical system

Remove the four combination switch mounting screws (arrows)

8.8 Both the turn signal/headlight control switch and the wiper/washer control switch have retaining screws at the front of the combination switch

8.5

8.9a Having removed the turn signal/headlight switch retention screws, pry the locking tab (A) up. Take care not to lose the small

ball bearing (B)

A Turn signal/headlight contro! switch retention screws B Wiper/washer control switch retention screws

8.17a

8.9b

To remove the lever push it forward and up (arrow)

Unclip the four wiring retainer clamps (A), unplug the connector (B) and slip the combination switch off the steering column

Remove the retention screws mounted at the rear of the

wiper/washer control switch (arrows) .. .

.

12-8

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

8.17b

8.20

Use asmall screwdriver or punch to push the combination switch connector up (arrow) for access to the terminals

8.21b

...and pry the locking lug down so the terminal can be disconnected

8.22

8.21a

Push in on the connector collar until the connector snaps into place

with a small screwdriver until the locking lug snaps into place (see illustration). 23: Snap the connector cover shut to lock the terminals. _—__eeankn eee

9

9.4

Remove the rear retention screw (arrow)...

tach or cut some of the wiring ties or straps to separate the wires of a particular switch from the harness. Mark the wires and combination switch terminals with pieces of tape so that only the wires involved with a specific switch are disconnected. 20 Use asmall screwdriver or punch to pry the combination switch cover up for access to the terminals (see illustration).

21 Insert a small screwdriver or punch into the connector and pry the locking lug down, disconnect the terminal and then pull it out to remove it (see illustrations). 22 Toconnect the terminal, insert it into the connector and push in

———

Ignition switch key lock cylinder - removal and installation

a

eae

Refer to illustrations 9.4, 9.5, 9.6a and 9.6b Warning: On airbag-equipped models, always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the instrument Panel or steering column to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury. Caution: On all 1990 and later models, wait at least 30 seconds after disconnecting the negative cable from the battery before beginning this procedure. 1 Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. Caution: /f the stereo in your vehicle is equipped with an anti-theft system, refer to the information on page 0-15 at the front of this manual before detaching the cable. 2 Remove the steering wheel (See Chapter 10). 3 Remove the lower finish panel and the steering column cover (see Chapter 11). 4 Remove the single retaining screw mounted on the rear of the switch (see illustration). 5 _Unclip the electrical connector (see illustration). 6 With the key in the Accessory position, insert a pin in the hole in the casting, pull the lock cylinder straight out and remove it from the steering column (see illustrations). 7 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Chapter 12

9.5

Chassis electrical system

...and disconnect the electrical connector to remove the

9.6a

ignition switch

To remove the ignition lock cylinder place the key in the “ACC” position (A), press on the locking tab (B)...

VIEW FROM INSIDE VEHICLE

GROUND “B” PARCEL SHELF 9.6b

C.H.M.S.L. TRIM COVER

...and pull the cylinder straight out

10 Rear window defogger switch - removal and installation Se Warning: On airbag-equipped models, always disconnect the negative battery cable when working in the vicinity of the instrument panel or steering column to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag, which could cause personal injury. Caution: On all 1990 and later models, wait at least 30 seconds after disconnecting the negative cable from the battery before beginning this procedure.

1989 and earlier models Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. Caution: /f 1 the stereo in your vehicle is equipped with an anti-theft system, refer to the information on page 0-15 at the front of this manual before detaching the cable. Squeeze the outside of the switch and pull it gently free. 2 Unplug the electrical connector from the rear window defogger 3. switch. 4 Installation is the reverse of removal.

1990 and later models Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. Caution: /f 5 the stereo in your vehicle is equipped with an anti-theft system, refer to the information on page 0-15 at the front of this manual before detaching the cable. Remove the steering wheel (see Chapter 10). 6 Remove the screws from the instrument cluster trim panel and re7 move the trim panel (see Chapter 11).

Unplug the electrical connector from the rear window defogger 8 switch.

11.4

Rear window defogger test points

9 ~ Pop the switch from the instrument cluster trim panel. 10 Installation is the reverse of removal.

41

Rear window defogger - check and repair

i

Refer to illustrations 11.4 and 11.14 1 The rear window defogger consists of a number of horizontal elements baked onto the glass surface. 2 Small breaks in the element can be repaired without removing the rear window.

Check 3 Turn the ignition switch and defogger system switches On. 4 Ground the negative lead of a voltmeter to terminal B and the positive lead to terminal A (see illustration). The voltmeter should read between 10 and 15 volts. If the reading 5 is lower there is a poor ground connection. Connect the negative lead to a good body ground. The reading === 6 : should stay the same. Connect the negative lead to terminal B, then touch each grid line 7 at the mid-point with the positive lead. The reading should be approximately six volts. If the reading is 0, 8 there is a break between the mid-point “C” and terminal “A”. A10to 14 volt reading is an indication of a break between mid9

12-10

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

GRID LINE

MASKING TAPE 11.14

12.4

To repair a broken grid, first apply a strip of masking tape to either side of the grid to mask off the area

... pull the unit from the mounting bracket, disconnect the antenna (A) and the electrical connector (B)

point “C” and ground B. 10 Move the lead toward the break; the voltage will change when the break is crossed.

Repair 11 Repair the break in the line using a repair kit specifically recommended for this purpose, such as Mopar Repair Kit No. 4267922 (or equivalent). Included in this kit is plastic conductive epoxy. 12 Prior to repairing a break, turn of the system and allow it to deenergize for a few minutes. 13 Lightly buff the element area with fine steel wool, then clean it thoroughly with rubbing alcohol. 14 Use masking tape to mask off the area being repaired (see illustration). 15 Mix the epoxy thoroughly, following the instructions provided with the repair kit. 16 Apply the epoxy material to the slit in the masking tape, overlapping the undamaged area about 3/4-inch on either end. 17 Allow the repair to cure for 24 hours before removing the tape and using the system.

a e 12 Stereo and speakers - removal and installation

12.8

If equipped with a sound box remove the units retaining screws (arrows) to access the speaker

Radio Refer to illustrations 12.3 and 12.4, 12.8 2 Remove the center trim panel (see Chapter 11). 3 Remove the radio mounting screws or bolts (see illustration). 4 Pull the radio out, reach behind it, unplug the electrical connector and the antenna lead and lift the radio from the instrument panel (see illustration). 5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Speakers 6 7 and 8 the 9

Remove the speaker covers (see Chapter 11). Remove the speaker retaining screws, pull the speaker forward unplug the electrical connector to remove the speaker. If so equipped, remove the speaker sound-box screws to access speaker (see illustration). Installation is the reverse of removal.

nr ee ee ST Se 13

Headlights - removal and installation

a ee

Caution: On all 1990 and later models, wait at least 30 seconds after disconnecting the negative cable from the battery before beginning this procedure. 1 Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. Caution: /f the stereo in your vehicle is equipped with an anti-theft system, refer to the information on page 0-15 at the front of this manual before detaching the cable.

Refer to illustrations 13.4a, 13.4b and 13.5 1 Turn the headlights on, then disconnect the negative cable from the battery and remove the RTR (30A) fuse. Caution: /f the stereo in your vehicle is equipped with an anti-theft system, refer to the information on page 0-15 at the front of this manual before detaching the cable, Also, Caution: On all 1990 and later models, wait at least 30 seconds after disconnecting the negative cable from the battery, before beginning this procedure.

Chapter 12

13.4a

Chassis electrical system

12-11

13.4b

Remove the side (arrows)...

.

ea 2

5 ss

ae.

*

ex

a

14.1. rap"

13.5 Pull the headlight forward (if it is a halogen type bulb avoid touching the lens and wear eye protection) and disconnect the electrical connector (arrow)

Remove the headlight trim, then remove the headlight retainer

2

screws (see illustrations). Don’t disturb the adjustment screws. ‘Pull the headlight out, unplug the electrical connector (see illus3 tration) and remove the headlight assembly. 4 Installation is the reverse of removal. i

14

SEU EEE EEEESEISEIEIEEE

Headlights - adjustment

—_—

Refer to illustrations 14.1 and 14.2 Note: /t is important that the headlights are aimed correctly. If adjusted incorrectly they could blind the driver of an oncoming vehicle and cause a serious accident or seriously reduce your ability to see the road. The headlights should be checked for proper aim every 12 months and any time a new headlight is installed or front end body work is performed. It should be emphasized that the following procedure is only an interim step which will provide temporary adjustment until the headlights can be adjusted by a properly equipped shop. Early body style headlights have an adjusting screw on the top 1 controlling up-and-down movement (see illustration) and one on the side controlling left-and-right movement (see illustration 14.2). Late models also have two adjustment screws, one to the side 2 controlling left-and-right movement and one below the light for upand-down movement (see illustration). There are several methods of adjusting the headlights. The sim3. plest method requires a blank wall 25 feet in front of the vehicle and a

level floor.

eee

On early models up-and-down adjustments are controlled by the upper adjustment screw (arrow) .. .

4 Position masking tape vertically on the wall in reference to the vehicle centerline and the centerlines of both headlights. 5 Position a horizontal tape line in reference to the centerline of all the headlights. Note: /t may be easier to position the tape on the wall with the vehicle parked only a few inches away. 6 Adjustment should be made with the vehicle sitting level, the gas tank half-full and no unusually heavy load in the vehicle. 7 Starting with the low beam adjustment, position the high intensity zone so it is two inches below the horizontal line and two inches to the right of the headlight vertical line. Twist the adjustment screws until the desired level has been achieved. 8 With the high beams on, the high intensity zone should be vertically centered with the exact center just below the horizontal line. Note: /t may not be possible to position the headlight aim exactly for both high and low beams. Ifa compromise must be made, keep in mind that the low beams are the most used and have the greatest effect on driver safety. 9 Have the headlights adjusted by a dealer service department at the earliest opportunity.

15

Bulb replacement

Headlight bulb Warning: Some models are equipped with halogen gas filled bulbs which are under pressure and may shatter if the surface is scratched or © the bulb is dropped. Wear eye protection and handle the bulbs carefully, grasping only the base whenever possible. Do not touch the surface of the bulb with your fingers because the oil from your skin could cause it to overheat and fail prematurely. If you do touch the bulb sur-

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

12-12

14.2

...on later models this function is performed by an

adjustment screw (A) under the headlight. On all models rightand-left adjustments are made by an adjusting screw (B) to the side of the light

15.4

uss

15.2b

. .. pull the lens free and twist the bulb counterclockwise to free it

face, clean it with rubbing alcohol. 1 All headlights on these models are a sealed beam type, therefore, follow the replacement procedure outlined in Section 13.

Miscellaneous bulbs.

16

To remove instrument cluster bulbs twist the bulb holder counterclockwise and pull it free

Windshield wiper motor - removal and installation

Refer to illustration 16.4 Warning: On all 1990 and later models, wait at least 30 seconds after disconnecting the negative cable from the battery before beginning this procedure. 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Caution: /f the stereo in your vehicle is equipped with an anti-theft system, refer to the information on page 0-15 at the front of this manual

before detaching the cable. Refer to illustrations 15.2a, 15.2b, 15.4, 15.5a and 15.5b 2 Following the procedure in Chapter 3, remove the heater core 2 __ The lenses of many lights are held in place by screws. To gain achousing. cess to the bulbs in these assemblies, simply remove the lenses (see 3 Disconnect the linkage from the wiper motor arm. illustrations). 4 From inside the engine compartment, unplug the electrical con3 The lenses of some light assemblies are held in place by clips. nector and remove the mounting bolts (see illustration). Lift the motor You can remove them by unsnapping them or by prying them off with up and tilt it to allow the wiper motor arm to pass through the firewall. a small screwdriver. Installation is the reverse of removal. 5 4 Some bulbs can be removed simply by pushing them ih and turning them counterclockwise (see illustration). ee eee een aMede ee aE ie Bebe 5 Other bulbs are installed in bulb holders. To release a bulb Instrument cluster - removal and installation 17 holder, push it in, turn it counterclockwise and pull it out (see illustraee ce a a ee tions). Refer to illustrations 17.3 and 17.4 6 Other holders can be unclipped from the terminals or pulled Warning: On all 1990 and later models, wait at least 30 seconds after straight out of the socket. disconnecting the negative cable from the battery before beginning 7 To gain access to the instrument cluster illumination lights (see ilthis procedure. lustration 15.4), the instrument cluster will have to be removed (see 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery. Caution: /f the Section 17). stereo in your vehicle is equipped with an anti-theft system, refer to the

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

ai

ee.

To remove tail lights push the clamps (arrows) in and pull the backing free

16.4

12-13

15.5b

Push the bulb in (A), twist it anti-clockwise (B) and pull it free (C)

Unplug the electrical connector (A), remove the bolts (B) and lift the wiper motor off 17.3

17.4... pull the instrument cluster forward and disconnect all the electrical connectors information on page 0-15 at the front of this manual before detaching the cable. 2. Remove the instrument cluster trim panel (see Chapter 11). Remove the four retaining screws and pull the cluster forward 3.

(see illustration). Pull the connectors from the rear of the instrument cluster (see il4. lustration). 5 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

ee Ee a 18 Cruise control system - description and check en The cruise control system maintains vehicle speed by means of a vacuum actuated servo motor located in the engine compartment

Remove the retaining screws (arrows) .. .

which is connected to the throttle linkage by a cable. The system consists of the servo motor, clutch switch, stoplight switch, control. switches, a relay and associated vacuum hoses. Because of the complexity of the cruise control system and the special tools and techniques required for diagnosis and repair, this should be left to a dealer or properly equipped shop. However, it is possible for the home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring and vacuum connections for minor faults which can be easily repaired. These include: a) Inspecting the cruise control actuating switches and wiring for broken wires or loose connections. b) Checking the cruise control fuse. .c) Checking the hoses in the engine compartment for tight connections, cracked hoses and obvious vacuum leaks. The cruise control system is operated by a vacuum so it is critical that all vacuum switches, hoses and connections be secure.

19

Power door lock system - description and check

The power door lock system operates the door lock actuators mounted in each door. The system consists of the switches, actuators and associated wiring. Special tools and techniques are required to fully diagnose this system, and this should be left to a dealer or properly equipped shop. However, it is possible for the home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring connections and actuators for minor faults which can be easily repaired. These include: a) Checking the system fuse and/or circuit breaker. b) Checking the switch wiring for damage or loose connec-

~ tions. c)

Checking the switches for continuity.

12-14

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

Front Airbag Sensor RH

Steering Wheel Pad

(with Airbag) Airbag. Warning Light

Front Airbag Sensor LH

Spiral Cable

aed Center Airbag Sensor Assembly

jy —s

21.1

d)

20

Airbag system components

Removing the door panel(s) and checking the actuator wiring connections for looseness or damage. Inspect the actuator rods (if equipped) to make sure they are not bent, damaged or binding. The actuator can be checked by applying battery power momentarily. A solid click indicates the solenoid is operating properly.

Power window system - description and check

The power window system operates the electric motors mounted in the doors which lower and raise the windows. The system consists of the control switches, the motors (regulators), glass mechanisms and associated wiring. Because of the complexity of the power window system and the special tools and techniques required for diagnosis and repair, this should be left to a dealer or properly equipped shop. However, it is possible for the home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring connections and motors for minor faults which can be easily repaired. These include: a) Inspecting the power window actuating switches and wiring for broken wires or loose connections. b) Checking the power window fuse and/or circuit breaker. c) Removing the door panel(s) and checking the power window motor wiring connections for looseness and damage, and inspecting the glass mechanisms for damage which could cause binding.

21

Airbag - general information

Refer to illustrations 21.1 Later models are equipped with a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), more commonly known as an airbag. This system is designed to protect the driver from serious injury in the event of a head-on or frontal collision. It consists of an airbag module in the center of the steering wheel, two crash sensors mounted at the front of the vehicle

AIR BAG 21.5 When the vehicle is started the “AIRBAG” light should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. If it fails to go off, have your dealer inspect the vehicle immediately

and a diagnostic module which also contains a crash sensor located inside the passenger compartment (see illustration).

Airbag module The airbag module contains a housing incorporating the cushion (airbag) and inflator unit. The inflator assembly is mounted on the back of the housing over a hole through which gas is expelled, inflating the bag almost instantaneously when an electrical signal is sent from the system. The specially wound wire that carries this signal to the module is called a spiral cable (see illustration 21.1). The spiral cable is a flat, ribbon like electrically conductive tape which is wound many times so that it can transmit an electrical signal regardless of steering wheel position.

Sensors The system has three sensors: two crash sensors at the front of the vehicle behind the bumper and above the wheel arches and a safing sensor in the center airbag sensor assembly located under the instrument panel, just in front of the center console.

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

The front crash sensors are basically pressure sensitive switches that complete an electrical circuit during an impact of sufficient G force. The electrical signal from the crash sensors is sent to the safing sensor in the center airbag sensor assembly, which then completes the circuit and inflates the airbag.

Center Airbag Sensor Assembly (CASA) The CASA contains the safing sensor and an on-board microprocessor which monitors the operation of the system. It checks this system every time the vehicle is started, causing the “AIRBAG” light to go on (see illustration), then off, if the system is operating properly. If there is a fault in the system, the light will go on and stay on and the CASA will store fault codes indicating the nature of the fault. If the AIRBAG light goes on and stays on, the vehicle should be taken to your dealer immediately for service.

ee ee 22

ee

a

Wiring diagrams - general information

ce

ee

ee

Since it isn’t possible to include all wiring diagrams for every year covered by this manual, the following diagrams are those that are typical and most commonly needed. Prior to troubleshooting any circuits, check the fuse and circuit breakers (if equipped) to make sure they are in good condition. Make sure the battery is properly charged and has clean, tight cable connections (see Chapter 1). When checking the wiring system, make sure that all electrical connectors are clean, with no broken or loose pins. When unplugging an electrical connector, do not pull on the wires, only on the connector housings themselves. Refer to the accompanying illustration for the wire color codes applicable to your vehicle. ‘

Wiring diagram index 1989 and earlier models Component or circuit

Wiring diagram

Airconditioning {lever SWItCh) |ais sevcesstecces sedeservescs cesses sven Al CONGHOMING) (HUSH SWITCH) soi.c-2.c22+1-00ekdevavsececconcessoscncnesaae PRUNE AUCs CHIECUA gcc nets nes acieslath deve Suaove deasweawaadeeeeseateceecntees

3 4 8

Automatic transmission indiCator..............:cccccseesscesecesssseeeees

5

BSAC KU GES eee ore oe,Se Gea arsenate Reese eee ashiskoaie Ranessae anes PSAN CGMS wee asc. sies coys suas onsacpecasssissdsaeepegese cedndecrpaarsaohers NINOS SLON capctwesavatohsaqadveosesesessecsessaes-yeisnccssccceacaretewtates

5 6 3

RGEC SUR ICH NR cereseh crs sauce dos vesfsoenus's vasipuayhe) deaczsctzeotiebs aievid

8

ONS eae ee eae ase Seok atuyaviontcn de dcuedveawesvdaainnsesseseasa ESCHTTED TAU ORMETREN oc tates aor cxchicesae-bR-/tgvsdeeico-ssansacapveieokasphucthaves PECOICICNASG mt MNO cs tececadctae: Festus? vcnstvusds

ro

i aa $

OX SENSOR

.ae

e (3 GE}

2 5 a

9

F| =

2

a>|5

{

Fy Waka

CONNECTOR

ear

tl

AIR VALVE

Le

INJECTOR

Es

== 23

=

ah

23 +

a

L

8 LB 4

la

v rte tgents Foor ~

al 5|

¢ &|

g

pa aes

1

Typical early model (2S-E) starting, EFI and idle-up wiring diagram

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

12-17

IGNITION sw

a F

r

a] |= [a1] oe |v Jose)or [ro

l= [ols bape]

eWiat

foxfe|

E z

z

a!

e

a

4% 198.Ge) © |7/a \a5.Fe)

.

Brom IGN" Fuse

es] = =a) @ Fae

3

&

p20

2

_g.

ty»

BMT)

BW A/T)

4 25s

BY

y = 8

a: Se

za

55 23 =[yusce

2

Ya \as.Fe) ——

EFIMAIN

:

f

Eq?

RELAY

&

To Combination

2

3

3 ;

—q——84,

8

ay

2

:

z

= &

INJECTOR

©)

z

i

2

Z|

os %

PEST ANE

= Located an night tront fender

f = Located on engine block

Le

=)

=

2

From ECT ECU__,

To Isc vy

3

1

:

|From ect ecu To ECT ECU To Speed Senior

LW

CAA

a

ova

9

es 3g

Ze

3

P

9 3

From Magnet Clutch Relay

Gi

& § 5

SWS prom sop Lams

a (mE

r8 to Wire Connector

Ox SENSOR

CHECK

12] CONNECTOR

22 2

3Q|

(COMB, METER)

f

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR

2

3

@

START ines INJECTOR

CHECK ENGINE

8®

¥LA

Ls arts

O (35-GE W/O Cruise Controt and 4.8.5.)

A 5 fe

2 3

we

:

Q

ATT

GAR

ol

BATTERY

Nsw

an

ne

a

2

38

be au so

& (3S-GE W/ Cruise Controt end 4.8.5.)

byw

x 3 @ ee 52 gs

fx &e

TE. 3S Crees

ony

al

a

AIR FLOW METER

guurch START SW (mith

= STARTER

LG

EFI WATER TEMP,

SENSOR

ay

)

©

LG

eed paw] 1

2

a

Meter (Dsgital!

1

(Ex. Calor)

EGR GAS TEMP, SENSOR

florCattornie)

=

-

BMT!

BWIA/T

V5v1T-vis)


DHS

rape eae

is

80

aim BWIA T) EFI MAIN EFI WATER TEMP, SENSOR,

2 i

ignir! IGNITION COIL

NSW iscy isc

80 a

E ATT

Flom "GAUGE" Fuse

IGNITION COM & DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION COWL

a

9}

CHECK ENGINE ‘COMB. METER)

8 :

z

3x _

2

From 1SC SV

BW.

From Magoes Cluien

Reley

uw

ror To Speed Servo

ow

From Stop Light SW

i)

us

=

EZ pe

2 sé T

F 5 lz

iE %

POSITION SENSOR ¥

5

a e

3

ache.

-

*

3)4) Meas

7

E 28

$ 5

> we

=

5

z

ai

3

z

a

z

z

2

s

2

=|!

z(m)

° @ al

a

asf

eI

Bi

From ECT ECU.

3 ) 3

INJECTOR

2 5 s

gi et e2

|

THROTTLE

3

£ ¥ we

2

5

OX SENSOR (Sub) (California)

1 ac

2 Typical early model (3S-FE and 3S-GE) starting and TCCS wiring diagram

Chassis electrical system

Chapter 12

12-18 A B

Cc D: BE x

G

L

‘i

304

wv FAN COs

i

o

2°

5 9 3

To A/C Fan Relay No.2 8.0

2

3 <

é33 223 Ze =o $5 ge 2=S

=]

é2¢

ied

tae :

2‘

54

: 3 Sy gE z3 FA

4

ALTERNATOR (W/ IC Regulator) 5 3g 52 é

=

u

5:

oF 22a]

Lis

z

5 ee) = S| al.

ese

2

a2 $

© S|

From A/C Fan Relay No, 3 3 ge 51 33 eo 2 ¢

6 B 24 2< < Ee é To AIC Amplifier ps a5 of usus fSe a] ts

2 5

22

°

=

2

gs

S




A

®

5

§

5

W

eo

@|

=

3

ed

2©

4

'©

Z

1© _ =

=

=

W

3

| Z3 z2

a = .

#

8:

s

ae

2

85 i

_=

ce

33 38 ae

38

25 s|alr (3)?z§?

:E (3)2z

:

=

ees

32

5@

3

aa

3

0@

sje #aee ,\| z=33 (9)85

F3

z

we

we No.

alg

sls }

6G)

|

2B

5

3 @

2@ 5

3: * EA

o

388

.

3 35 23

z

z 1

Cc

1 I

ie

INTERIOR LIGHT

©

9

ps \

BATTERY

é:

33

5

6

S-

3

5

No

Located on left kick panel

VW

Located on lett roof

WW

:

re > >) Se

¥

=

cS

2

a

ig

, jaws}

JUNCTION | CONNECTOR {for Earth)

==

(we Rear Wiper)

5

.

= 3 =e 42fees§2

=5 EL

RW

ary

fe

-*

:

fo

Soracomer

"see)Bea

rat é

z

ma

2i

8> adaf

Located under left rear center pillar

RW

z

aily

“WHE

8%

FW ue)

$2

2

exe

E eo

3

Ground points

35

4

=

é

CS

=

z

2

aE

«+

3

fe Es

aaa “JUNCTION CONNECTOR

=a

2» z| 2

;

s

A

\A

5

z

om

iy 05 ogeo

i &

INTEGRATION RELAY

ee UGHT Sw

ortgas forconmaaty wo 5B,

a

t

'

é

\i/

14 Typical late model light reminder, unlock and seat belt warning and interior lights wiring diagram

= 3A DEFOG

“1 fa Deversity Antenna) *2 (wo Dwersty

Antenna)

IGNITION Sw

To Idle-t ip Diode

REAR WIPER AND WASHER SW [COMB SW) BACK-UP LIGHT

@ cray

BOX FUSE

@wo)——-—-|‘===— Al —— Traciay — DEFOGGER SW

FL MAIN er 2 BPA ies Ue)

ae

BATTERY BACK-UP LIGHT [REAR COMB. LIGHT]

FILTER

REAR WIPER

MOTOR

A JUNCTION CONNECTOR | | (tor Earth)

y

13 +

x

5 4] 3

a =

z=

2]

2

&

z

8

3a

a

13 is

'

=U

a 3 0

CIRCUIT

OPENING

RELAY

s

JUNCTION CONNECTOR for Earth

From ABS ECU

weal | Es

WB

Ground points

« Located on front side of let tender

V

Located on intake manifold

WY Located on let kick pane!

Ne Located under left rear center pillar

[COMB METER}

ENGINE AND ECT ECU @ DAK GRAY

e

7®

e

15a

‘Gey

GAUGE

s@

= VACUUM SENSOR 3[

2

=

a

=

oO 4 "10

ACT 71Q@

No 3]

a

J

= 6

=

3iS SQL} ©

6® «3

aRY JUNCTION CONNECTOR

sie £) ePue Ssa a

=3 é