Haynes Saab 99 1969-79 All Models Owners Workshop Manual 1850100799, 9781850100799

Citation preview

Owners Workshop

STATE OF VERMONT DEPARTMENT OF UBRARIES

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STATE OF VERMONT DEPARTMENT OF UBRARIES regional library RD 2 60X 244 ST. J0HNS8URY. VT 05819 __

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SAAB

99 Owners Workshop Manual by J H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and P G Strasman MISTC

Models covered: SAAB 99 Saloon, L, GL, LC, LE, EM Sport, EMS, GLE, Combi Coupe (Wagonback) and Turbo; 1709 cc (104 cu in), 1854 cc (113 cu in) and 1985 cc (121 cu in) engines in carburettor or fuel injection form Covers 2-, 3-, 4- and 5-door, manual and automatic transmission versions

ISBN 1 85010 079 9 ISBN 0 85696 844 7 (US) ©

Haynes Publishing Group 1976, 1979, 1980, 1984, 1986

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder. Printed in England

(247-9M5)

Haynes Publishing Group

Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes Publications, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

»

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to SAAB (Great Britain) Ltd and SAAB-SCANIA of America Inc., for the provision of technical information and certain illustrations. Castrol Limited provided the lubrication details, and the Champion Sparking Plug Company supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions. The bodywork repair photographs used in this manual were provided by Lloyds Industries Limited who supply 'Turtle Wax', 'Dupli-color Holts' and other Holts range products. Thanks are also due to Martin Penny who not only carried out

most of the mechanical work but was also kind enough to lend us his own SAAB 99 for our project. Lastly, thanks are due to all of those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual; particularly Les Brazier who took the photographs, Stanley Randolph and Annette Cutler who planned the layout of each page, Bruce Gilmour who wrote the Supplementary Chapter and Rod Grainger and David Neilson who edited the text.

About this manual Its aims The aim of this book is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in two ways. First it can help you decide what work must be done, even should you choose to get it done by a garage, the routine maintenance and the diagnosis and course of action when random faults occur. But it is hoped that you will also use the second and fuller purpose by tackling the work yourself. This can give you the satisfaction of doing the job yourself. On the simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, much money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover their labour and overheads. To avoid labour costs a garage will often make a repair by fitting a reconditioned assembly. The home mechanic can be helped by this book to diagnose the fault and make a repair using only a minor spare part. The book has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can cope with complicated work. Such a person is the very one to buy a car needing repair yet be unable to afford garage costs. Generally the jobs are described assuming only normal tools are available and not special tools. A reasonable outfit of tools will be a worthwhile investment and will make working on the car very much easier. Many special workshop tools produced by the makers merely speed the work, and in these cases guidance is given as to how to do the job without them. On a very few occasions the special tool is essential to prevent damage to components, then its use is described. Though it might be possible to borrow the tool, such work may have to be entrusted to

the official agent.

Using the manual The book is divided into thirteen Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of serially numbered paragraphs and is occasionally further split into sub-Sections. There are two types of illustrations: (1) Figures which are numbered according to Chapter and sequence of occurrence in that Chapter. (2) Photographs which have a reference number in their caption. All photographs apply to the Chapter in which they occur so that the reference figure pinpoints the pertinent Section and paragraph number. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. If it is necessary to refer to another Chapter the reference will be given in Chapter number and Section number thus: Chapter 1/16. If it is considered necessary to refer to a particular paragraph in another Chapter the reference is given in this form: 1/5:5. Crossreferences given without use of the word 'Chapter' apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter (eg; see Section 8) means 'in this Chapter'. When the left or right side of the car is mentioned it is as if looking forward from the rear of the car. Great effort has been made to ensure that this book is complete and up-to-date. However, it should be appreciated that manufacturers continually modify their cars even in retrospect. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Introduction to the SAAB 99 First introduced in 1969, the Saab 99 has now enjoyed a relatively long production run which in itself, has made for reliability and troublefree operation. Although conventional in design, the quality of construction and attention to safety features has ensured an increasing demand from discerning purchasers.

Few major engineering changes have occurred over the years but a multiplicity of model designations have been introduced, most of which concern differences in trim or accessories and equipment. Until 1974, only two or four door saloon versions were produced but after this the range was extended to include the three-door Combi or as it is called for the North American market the Wagonback.

Contents Page

Acknowledgements

2

About this manual

2

Introduction to the SAAB 99

2

Use of English

6

Tools and working facilities

7

Jacking points

9

Lubrication chart

10

Routine maintenance

11

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

12

Chapter 1 Engine

13

Chapter 2 Cooling system

45

Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems

52

Chapter 4 Ignition system

77

Chapter 5 Clutch

86

Chapter 6 Manual gearbox and final drive

91

Chapter 7 Automatic transmission

114

Chapter 8 Driveshafts

120

Chapter 9 Braking system

124

Chapter 10 Electrical system

137

Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

194

Chapter 12 Bodywork and fittings

212

Chapter 13 Revisions and information on later models

233

Conversion factors

300

Safety first!

301

General repair procedures

302

Index

303

SAAB 99 EMS - UK Specification

V*i ^

SAAB 99 GLE - North American Specification

V

General dimensions Dimensions

1969 - 70

1971

1972

1973

1974 - 78

1979-80

Overall length (Saloon)

14 ft 3 in (434.6 cm)

14 ft 3 in (434.6 cm)

14 ft 4 in (437.0 cm)

Overall width (Saloon)

5 ft 6 in (167.6 cm)

5 ft 6 in (167.6 cm)

5 ft 6y2 in (169.0 cm)

14 ft 4 in (437.0 cm) N.America 14 ft 5 in (440.0 cm) 5 ft 6y2 in (169.0 cm)

14 ft 6 in (442.0 cm) N.America 14 ft 7 in (444.5 cm) 5 ft 6y2 in (169.0 cm)

14 ft 6 in (442.0 cm) N.America 14 ft 7 in (444.5 cm) 5 ft 6y2 in (169.0 cm)

Overall height (Saloon)

4 ft 8V2 in (144.0 cm)

4 ft Sy2 in (144.0 cm)

4 ft 8V2 in (144.0 cm)

4 ft S’A in (144.0 cm)

4 ft S'/z in (144.0 cm)

4 ft 8y2 in (144.0 cm)

Overall length (Combi/Wagonback)

—

—

_

_

—

—

—

—

14 ft ^0'^ in (453.0 cm)

15 ft 6 in (473.7 cm)

early

early

early

early

2420 lb (1090 kg)

2440 lb (1110 kg)

2620 lb (1190 kg)

2380 lb (1080 kg)

late

late

late

Late (to 1979)

2530 lb (1140 kg)

2575 lb (1170 kg)

2770 lb (1250 kg)

2600 lb (1180 kg)

N.America (early)

N.America (early)

N.America (early)

2460 lb (1115 kg)

2470 lb (1120 kg)

2560 lb (1160 kg)

N.America (late)

N.America (late)

N.America (late to 1979)

2650 lb (1200 kg)

2650 lb (1200 kg)

2760 lb (1250 kg)

Weight (kerb) Saloon *

2360 lb (1070 kg)

Combi or Wagonback (N. America)

2710 lb (1229 kg)

* These weights apply to 2 door models. Add the following according to specifications: . 50lb(22.7kg) Four door mode! . 30 lb (13.6 kg) Automatic transmission . 22 lb (10.0 kg) Power steering ... ... ... ... . . 70 lb (31.8 kg) Full air-conditioning system .

Capacities

Imperial

Metric

US

Engine oil . Cooling system including heater: 1709 cc, 1854 cc 1985 cc up to 1975 . 1985 cc from 1975 Fuel tank: Up to chassis 99024297 From chassis 99024298 until 1975 From 1975 ... Manual gearbox. Automatic transmission Final drive (with auto, transmission only): Up to 1975 . 1975 on .

6 pints

3.5 litres

4% qts

... ... ... .

15 pints 16% pints 14 pints

8.5 litres 9.5 litres 8.0 litres

9 qts 10 qts 8% qts

. . . ... ... ... ... ... ...

10y2 gals 10 gals 12 gals 5 pints 14 pints

48.0 litres 45.0 litres 55.0 litres 3.0 litres 8.0 litres

12% gals 11.8 gals 14 gals 3 qts 8V2 qts

. ... ... ...

1’72 pints 2% pints

0.8 litres

0.8 qts

1.25 litres

1.3 qts

Use of English /^s this book has been written in England, it uses the appropriate English component names, phrases, and spelling. Some of these differ from those used in America. Normally, these cause no difficulty, but to make sure, a glossary is printed below. In ordering spare parts remember the parts list may use some of these words:

English

American

English

American

Accelerator Aerial Anti-roll bar Big-end bearing Bonnet (engine cover) Boot (luggage compartment) Bulkhead Bush Cam follower or tappet Carburettor Catch Choke/venturi Circlip Clearance Crownwheel Damper Disc (brake) Distance piece Drop arm Drop head coupe Dynamo

Gas pedal Antenna Stabiliser or sway bar Rod bearing Hood Trunk Firewall Bushing Valve lifter or tappet Carburetor Latch Barrel Snap-ring Lash Ring gear (of differential) Shock absorber, shock Rotor/disk Spacer Pitman arm

Leading shoe (of brake) Locks Methylated spirit Motorway Number plate Paraffin Petrol Petrol tank 'Pinking' Prise (force apart) Propeller shaft Quarterlight Retread Reverse Rocker cover Saloon Seized Sidelight Silencer

Primary shoe

Convertible Generator (DC) Ground Prussian blue Station wagon Header

Sill panel (beneath doors) Small end, little end Spanner Split cotter (for valve spring cap) Split pin

Earth (electrical) Engineer's blue Estate car Exhaust manifold Fault finding/diagnosis Float chamber Free-play Freewheel Gearbox Gearchange Grub screw Gudgeon pin Halfshaft Handbrake Hood Hot spot Indicator Interior light Layshaft (of gearbox)

Troubleshooting Float bowl Lash Coast Transmission Shift Setscrew, Allen screw Piston pin or wrist pin Axleshaft Parking brake Soft top Heat riser Turn signal Dome lamp Countershaft

Steering arm Sump Swarf Tab washer Tappet Thrust bearing Top gear Trackrod (of steering) Trailing shoe (of brake) Transmission Tyre Van Vice Wheel nut Windscreen Wing/mudguard

Latches Denatured alcohol Freeway, turnpike etc License plate Kerosene Gasoline (gas) Gas tank 'Pinging' Pry Driveshaft Quarter window Recap Back-up Valve cover Sedan Frozen Parking light Muffler Rocker panel Piston pin or wrist pin Wrench Lock (for valve spring retainer) Cotter pin Spindle arm Oil pan Metal chips or debris Tang or lock Valve lifter Throw-out bearing High Tie-rod (or connecting rod) Secondary shoe Whole drive line Tire Panel wagon/van Vise Lug nut Windshield Fender

Ibols and working facilities Introduction A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a consider¬ able expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair. Repair and overhaui, and Speciai. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grows, he can under¬ take more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhaui tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-ityourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and over¬ haul procedures and will add tools from the Speciai category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use to which these tools will be put. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Toois available from the publishers of this manual.

Maintenance and minor repair too! kit The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair opera¬ tions are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combin¬ ation spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner. Combination spanners • 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 and 17 mm Adjustable spanner - 9 inch Engine sump/gearbox drain plug key Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges Brake adjuster spanner (where appiicabie) Brake bleed nipple spanner Screwdriver - 4 in iong x % in dia (fiat biade) Screwdriver - 4 in iong x % in dia (cross biade) Combination piiers - 6 inch Hacksaw, junior Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge Grease gun (where appiicabie) Oii can Fine emery doth (1 sheet) Wire brush (smaii) Funnei (medium size)

Repair and overhaul too! kit These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the Maintenance and minor repair list. Included in this list is a com¬ prehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various drives

are included in the set. We recommend the Vt in square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Speciai list. Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous iist Reversibie ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) "Mole' wrench - 8 inch Bail pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber Screwdriver - 6 in long x 5/16 in dia (fiat blade) Screwdriver - 2 in tong x 5/16 in square (fiat biade) Screwdriver - 1% in iong x % in dia (cross biade) Screwdriver - 3 in iong x 1/8 in dia (electricians) Pliers - electricians side cutters Pliers - needie nosed Piiers - circiip (internai and extemai) Coid chisei - % inch Scriber Scraper Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw Vaive grinding toot Steei ruie/straight edge Aiien keys Seiection of fiies Wire brush (iarge) Axie-stands Jack (strong scissor or hydrauiic type)

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers' instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or a motorists' club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist. The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturers' special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturer's special tool is given. However, sometimes, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed you will have to entrust the work to a franchised garage. Vaive spring compressor Piston ring compressor Bait joint separator Universai hub/bearing puiier impact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier gauge

'

8

Tools and working facilities Carburettor flow balancing device (where applicable) Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing light Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter Cylinder compression gauge Lifting tackle Trolley jack Light with extension lead

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. Remember, you don't have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time-to-time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

Working facilities Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circum¬ stances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on which become necessary. Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 5/16 in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as wing mirrors and reversing lights. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

0.525 0.551 0.562 0.590 0.600 0.625 0.629 0.669 0.687 0.708 0.710 0.748 0.750 0.812 0.820 0.866 0.875 0.920 0.937 0.944 1.000 1.010 1.023 1.062 1.100 1.125 1.181 1.200 1.250 1.259 1.300 1.312 1.390 1.417 1.437 1.480 1.500 1.574 1.614 1.625 1.670 1.687 1.811 1.812 1.860 1.875 1.968 2.000 2.050 2.165 2.362

% in Whitworth; 5/16 in BSF 14 mm 9/16 in AF 15 mm 5/16 in Whitworth; 3/8 in BSF 5/8 in AF 16 mm 17 mm 11/16 in AF 18 mm 3/8 in Whitworth; 7/16 in BSF 19 mm % in AF 13/16 in AF 7/16 in Whitworth; % in BSF 22 mm 7/8 in AF Vi in Whitworth; 9/16 in BSF 15/16 in AF 24 mm 1 in AF 9/16 in Whitworth; 5/8 in BSF 26 mm 1.1/16 in AF; 27 mm 5/8 in Whitworth; 11/16 in BSF 1.1/8 in AF 30 mm 11/16 in Whitworth; % in BSF 1%in AF 32 mm % in Whitworth; 7/8 in BSF 1.5/16 in AF 13/16 in Whitworth; 15/16 in BSF 36 mm 1.7/16 in AF 7/8 in Whitworth; 1 in BSF VA in AF 40 mm; 15/16 in Whitworth 41 mm 1.5/8 in AF 1 in Whitworth; 1.1/8 in BSF 1.11/16 in AF 46 mm 1.13/16 in AF 1.1/8 in Whitworth; IVi in BSF 1.7/8 in AF 50 mm 2 in AF VA in Whitworth; 1.3/8 in BSF 55 mm 60 mm

Spanner jaw gap comparison table Jaw gap (in)

Spanner size

0.250 0.275 0.312 0.315 0.340 0.354 0.375 0.393 0.433 0.437 0.445 0.472 0.500 0.512

% in AF 7 mm 5/16 in AF 8 mm 11/32 in AF; 1/8 in Whitworth 9 mm 3/8 in AF 10 mm 11 mm 7/16 in AF 3/16 in Whitworth; % in BSF 12 mm 'A in AF 13 mm

A Haltrac hoist and gantry in use during a typical engine removal sequence

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: SAAB garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare parts is as follows: Officially appointed SAAB garages - This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your car and otherwise not generally available (eg; complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc.). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your car is still under warranty; non-SAAB components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your car's engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the old part along for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on a factory exchange scheme - any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops - These are often very good places to buy material and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg; oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fan belts, oils and grease, touch-up paint, filler paste etc.). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors - Good factors will stock all of the more important components which wear out relatively quickly (eg; clutch components.

pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake cylinders/pipes/hoses/seals/shoes and pads etc.). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis - this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture quite apart from major model changes. Spare parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a numerical basis, individual vehicle number being essential to correct identification of the component required. The engine number on 1709 cc and 1854 cc models is located either just below number 3 and 4 spark plugs or cast into the top face of the cylinder head, adjacent to the rear right-hand side of the camshaft cover (photo). On 1985 cc models, the number is visible below the air cleaner intake (carburettor models) or throttle housing (fuel injection models). The chassis number is located on a plate fixed to the rear bulkhead within the engine compartment. It is also stamped on the rear seat front support crossmember (early cars) or beneath the rear seat cushion (later cars). On vehicles destined for operation in North America, the chassis number is repeated on the upper surface of the fascia panel just inside the windscreen. The colour code is marked on a plate which is mounted next to the chassis number plate on the rear bulkhead.

Jacking pQints The jack supplied with the car tool kit should be used only as a support during wheel changing. Engage the jack in one of the two recesses which are to be found under the body sill on each side of the car. When overhauling or repairing the car, use the front or rear

reinforced lifting points. The front position is under the engine crossmember and the rear one is just behind the fuel tank. Once the car has been raised, support it by placing axle stands under the body sill jacking points. On no account be tempted to jack-up under the rear axle tube as it will distort and damage the axle assembly.

Recommended lubricants and fluids Component

Castrol Product

1

Brake hydraulic system

...

.

Castrol Girling Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

2

Hydraulic clutch

...

.

Castrol Girling Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

3

Engine

4

Manual transmission ... . Automatic transmission Final drive, automatic transmission

Castrol ite Castrol TQF, Type A, Suffix A or Dexron type Castrol Hypoy Light (80 EP)

5

Carburetor (oil damper)

Castrol GTX

6

Distributor, breaker cam Distributor, felt under breaker plate lubrication

Castrol LM Grease Castrol GTX

7

Throttle control

Castrol GTX

8

Hood hinges ...

Castrol GTX

9

Clutch pedal ...

...

.

Castrol GTX

..

Castrol GTX

10 Handbrake links

Castrol GTX

11 Door hinges and door stops

Castrol GTX

12 Door lock mechanism

Castrol GTX

13 Boot lock mechanism Rack and pinion unit (up to chassis 99.022.278) Tie-rod ends, upper and lower balljoints t Front wheel bearings t Rear wheel bearings t Inner universal joints t Outer universal joints t Clutch controls t Release bearing t Handbrake bellows t

Castrol GTX SAAB Special SAAB Special SAAB Special SAAB Special SAAB Special SAAB Special SAAB Special SAAB Special SAAB Special

Chassis Chassis Chassis Chassis Chassis Chassis Chassis Chassis Chassis

Grease Grease Grease Grease Grease Grease Grease Grease Grease

* * * * * * * * *

* Do not use any grease other than SAAB Special Chassis Grease, which is specially formulated (obtainable as a SAAB spare part). Note this grease is injurious to paintwork and upholstery, t Repack with grease at overhaul (where applicable). Note the above are general recommendations. Lubrication requirements vary from territory-to-territory and depend on the usage to which the vehicle is put. Consult the operators handbook supplied with your car.

Routine maintenance

Refer to Chapter 13 for information and specifications related to later models

Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from the car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication - oiling, greasing and so on - has been drastically reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required the items either no longer exist or will last for ever. This is a serious delusion. It follows therefore that the largest initial element of maintenance is visual examination. This may lead to repairs or renewals. In the summary given here the 'essential for safety' items ar shown in bold type. These must be attended to at the regular frequencies shown in order to avoid the possibility of accidents and loss of life. Other neglect results in unreliability, increased running costs, more rapid wear and more rapid depreciation of the'vehicle in general.

Engine Check torque wrench setting of cylinder head bolts and nuts. Check torque wrench setting of manifold bolts. Check cooling system hose connections. Check valve clearances. Change engine oil. Check drivebelt tension.

Fuel system Check carburettor setting and CO level from exhaust.

Brakes Check brake vacuum servo hose connections. Check brake reservoir fluid level.

Clutch Check clutch free-movement.

Every 250 miles (400 km) travelled or weekly - whichever comes first

Steering Check the tyre pressures Examine tyres for wear or damage Is steering smooth and accurate?

Brakes Check reservoir fluid level Is there any fall off in braking efficiency? Try an emergency stop. Is adjustment necessary?

Lights wipers and horns

Suspension Check steering and suspension angles.

Gearbox (manual) Check oil level (photo).

Transmission (auto) and final drive Check speed selector cable adjustment. Check oil levels.

Electrical Check battery electrolyte level and connections. Check operation of all lights. Check operation of all electrical accessories and components.

Do all lamps work at the front and rear? Do the wipers and horns work? Check windscreen washer fluid level Every 5000 miles (8000 km)

Engine Check the sump oil level and top-up if required (photo). Check the radiator coolant level and top-up if required. Check the battery electrolyte level and top-up to the level of the plates with distilled water as needed.

At the end of the first 1000 miles (1600 km) Applies to new cars only and is normally carried out by a SAAB dealer free, under the conditions of new car warranty except for materials used.

Topping-up the engine oil

Engine Change engine oil and renew filter. Top-up carburettor damper. Lubricate distributor. Clean fuel pump filter (carburettor models only). Check and adjust drivebelt tension. Clean and re-gap spark plugs. Check distributor contact points gap and ignition timing.

Gearbox Check and top-up oil in manual gearbox or auto transmission.

Topping-up the gearbox/final drive

Routine maintenance

12 Check and top-up oil in final drive (auto transmission only).

Every 30000 miles (48000 km)

Clutch Check clutch free-movement. Top-up clutch fluid reservoir.

Brakes Inspect thickness of disc pad friction material. Check handbrake adjustment (drums up to 1974 only).

Suspension and steering Inspect condition of suspension and steering flexible gaiters. Check tyre tread thickness.

Body

Engine Check valve clearances.

Suspension and steering Check power steering fluid reservoir level.

Fuel system Renew charcoal canister (fuel evaporative emission control system).

Brakes Bleed hydraulic system and refill with fresh clean fluid. Renew brake servo air filter. Check handbrake shoe lining wear (up to 1974 only).

Lubricate locks, controls, handles and hinges.

Body and under frame Every 15000 miles (24000 km)

Check all nuts and bolts for security and correct torque wrench settings. Inspect and make good any damage to undersealing or bodywork.

Engine Renew spark plugs. Renew distributor contact breaker points.

Fuel system Renew air cleaner element. Clean charcoal canister filter (fuel evaporative emission control system). Inspect exhaust system for leaks or corrosion. Renew fuel line filter (fuel injection system). Check emission control system connections. Clean and test emission control system components.

Electrical Check headlamp alignment.

Suspension Check front wheel alignment. Check front suspension and steering linkage for wear Re-balance roadwheels. Check shock absorber mounting bushes for wear and operation of shock absorbers.

Gearbox Change manual gearbox oil. Change final drive oil (auto transmission only).

Special notes Threads Earlier models used nuts and bolts to unified coarse (UNC) sizes on which AF spanners should be used. On later models, a change was gradually made to metric sizes. On all cars, exceptions to the standard thread system may be found on proprietary components. Torque wrench settings Essential torque wrench settings are given at the beginning of each . Chapter in the 'Specifications' Section. Bolts and nuts which are not specifically listed should be tightened in accordance with the following table: UNC Ib/ft Nm % in 7 10 5/16 in 18 25 3/8 in 29 40 Metric 4 M5 6 8 11 M6 M8 15 21 MW 29 40

r

Engine oil drain plug (1) is conventional hexagon-head type; manual transmission drain plug (2) has a recessed head

Typical filler/level plug (arrowed) for manual transmission oil. Later models (except Turbo) have a dipstick; early models have a separate filler plug

Chapter 1 Engine Refer to Chapter 13 for information and specifications related to later models Contents

Camshaft and bearings - examination and renovation Camshaft, chain and tensioner - removal Camshaft and cylinder head - removal Camshaft and timing gear - refitting (engine out of car) Camshaft - refitting (engine in car) Connecting rods - examination and renovation Crankshaft and main bearings - examination and renovation Crankshaft, main bearings and flywheel - refitting ... Crankcase ventilation system ... Cylinder bores - examination and renovation Cylinder head - decarbonising and examination Cylinder head - reassembly and installation ... Engine ancillaries - refitting Engine ancillaries - removal Engine dismantling - general Engine/automatic transmission - removal Engine/manual gearbox - removal Engine reassembly - general Engine - separation from automatic transmission Engine - separation from manual gearbox Engine - start-up after major overhaul Engine to transmission - reconnection Engine/transmission - installation

26 12 10 38 37 23 20 33 19 21 30 36 41 8 9 5 4 32 7 6 44 42 43

Engine/transmission - method of removal Fault diagnosis - engine ... Flywheel, crankshaft and main bearings - removal ... Flywheel (or driveplate) - examination and renovation General description Idler shaft - examination and renovation Idler shaft - installation Lubrication system Major operations possible with the engine in the car Oil filter - removal and refitting Oil pump (bi-rotor type) - removal and overhaul Oil pump - installation ... Oil pump (vane type) - removal and overhaul Oil seals - renewal Piston/connecting rod - reassembly and installation Pistons/connecting rods - removal and dismantling ... Pistons and rings - examination and renovation Timing sprockets, chain and tensioner - examination and renovation Valve clearances - checking and adjusting Valve guides and springs - examination and renovation Valves and valve seats - examination and renovation Valves - removal ...

Specifications

Engine (all models) - general Engine type Engine capacity: Up to 1971 . 1971 to 1975 . 1972 onwards

Four in-line, single overhead camshaft installed with clutch and flywheel at front of car. Five main bearings. 104.2 cu. in (1709 cc) 113.1 cu. in (1854 cc) 121 cu. in (1985 cc) 1709 cc

1854 cc

1985 cc

Cylinder bore

3.288 in (83.5 mm)

3.425 in (87 mm)

3.543 in (90 mm)

Stroke Firing order

3.071 in (78 mm) 1—3—4—2 (no. 1 at timing cover end).

Engine (1709 cc) - general Compression ratio

Power rating Max. torque

9.0 : 1 Carburettor

Fuel injection

80 bhp @ 5200 rev/min (59 kw) 94 Ib/ft @ 3000 rev/min (127 Nm)

87 bhp @ 5200 rev/min (64 kw) 95 Ib/ft @ 3000 rev/min (129 Nm)

Engine (1854 cc) - general Compression ratio

Power rating Max. torque

9.0 : 1 Carburettor

Fuel injection

88 bhp @ 5000 rev/min (65 kw) 108 Ib/ft @ 3000 rev/min (147 Nm)

95 bhp @ 5200 rev/min (71 kw) 105 Ib/ft @ 3200 rev/min (143 Nm)

3 45 14 24 1 25 35 15

2 18 17 40 16 31 34 13

22 27 39 29 28 11

Chapter 1/Engine

14 Engine (1985 cc) - general Compression ratio: Up to 1975 . 1975 onwards 1975 onwards (N. America)

. . .

8.7 : 1 9.2 : 1 8.1 : 1 Carburettor

Fuel injection

Power rating: Up to 1975

.

95 bhp @ 5200 rev/min (70 kw)

110 bhp @ 5500 rev/min (81 kw)

Max. torque: Up to 1975

.

115 Ib/ft @ 3500 rev/min (157 Nm)

123 Ib/ft @ 3700 rev/min (167 Nm)

100 bhp @ 5200 rev/min (73 kw)

118 bhp @ 5500 rev/min (87 kw) 115 bhp (85 kw) 110 bhp (81 kw)

119 Ib/ft @ 3500 rev/min (162 Nm)

123 Ib/ft @ 3500 rev/min (167 Nm) 119 Ib/ft (161 Nm)

Power rating: 1975 onwards N. America ... Except California Max. Torque: 1975 onwards

.

...

...

California

Cylinder block (all models) Material ... No. of main bearings

.

Cylinder bore:

1709 cc

Standard

Grade F 83.487 to Grade G 83.500 to Grade H 83.530 to 84.005 to 84.513 to

1st oversize 2nd oversize

Cast-iron. 5 1985 cc

1854 cc Grade F 86.987 to Grade G 87.000 to Grade H 87.030 to 87.495 to 88.003 to

83.497 mm 83.513 mm 83.543 mm 84.021 mm 84.529 mm

86.997 mm 87.013 mm

Grade A 90.000 to 90.010 mm Grade B 90.010 to 90.020 mm —

87.043 mm 87.508 mm 88.016mm

—

90.500 mm 91.000 mm

Pistons (all models) Material ... No. of rings per piston ...

.

Light alloy 2 compression, 1 oil control (3 section)

Groove width:

1709 cc

1854 cc

1985 cc

Top compression Second compression Oil control Piston diameter: Standard

2.038 to 2.064 mm 3.038 to 3.064 mm 3.988 to 4.013 mm

1.790 to 1.810 mm 2.030 to 2.050 mm 4.000 to 4.020 mm

1.790 to 1.810 mm 2.030 to 2.050 mm 4.010 to 4.030 mm

Grade F 83.464 to 83.475 mm Grade G 83.475 to 83.487 mm Grade H 83.490 to 83.503 mm 83.983 to 83.992 mm 84.491 to 84.500 mm 0.0005 to 0.0014 in (0.013 to 0.038 mm) 20.635 to 20.640 mm

Grade F 86.962 to 86.976 mm Grade G 86.977 to 86.991 mm Grade FI 87.007 to 87.021 mm 87.470 to 87.482 mm 87.978 to 87.990 mm 0.0005 to 0.0014 in (0.013 to 0.038 mm) 22.225 mm

Grade A—B 89.980 to 89.986 mm Grade C 89.999 to 90.010 mm

1st oversize 2nd oversize Piston clearance in bore Gudgeon pin diameter ...

— —

90.472 to 90.487 mm 90.972 to 90.987 mm 0.0005 to 0.0015 in (0.014 to 0.040 mm) 23.996 to 24.000 mm

Piston rings

Top compression ring: Thickness End-gap Groove clearance

1709 and 1854 cc Hep worth

1709 and 1854 cc Mahle

1985 cc (up to 1975)

1985 cc (1975 on

1.975 to 2.000 mm 0.012 to 0.018 in (0.30 to 0.45 mm) 0.002 to 0.003 in (0.050 to 0.082 mm)

1.728 to 1.740 mm 0.012 to 0.018 in (0.32 to 0.45 mm) 0.002 to 0.003 in (0.050 to 0.082 mm)

1.53 to 1.65 mm 0.014 to 0.022 in (0.35 to 0.55 mm) 0.002 to 0.003 in (0.050 to 0.082 mm)

1.73 to 1.75 mm 0.014 to 0.022 in (0.35 to 0.55 mm) 0.002 to 0.003 in (0.050 to 0.082 mm)

15

Chapter 1/Engine

becoi^d compression ring: Thickness End-gap Groove clearance Oil control ring: Segment thickness Segment gap ...

...

Centre ring: Thickness

1709 and 1854 cc Hepworth

1709 and 1854 cc Mahle

1985 cc (up to 1975)

1985 cc (1975 on)

2.975 to 3.000 mm 0.012 to 0.018 in (0.30 to 0.45 mm) 0.0016 to 0.0025 in (0.040 to 0.063 mm)

1.987 to 1.990 mm 0.012 ro 0.018 in (0.030 to 0.45 mm) 0.0016 to 0.0025 in (0.040 to 0.063 mm)

1.78 to 1.88 mm 0.012 to 0.018 in (0.30,to 0.45 mm) 0.0016 to 0.0028 in (0.040 to 0.072 mm)

1.98 to 1.99 mm 0.012 to 0.018 in (0.30 to 0.45 mm) 0.0016 to 0.0028 in (0.040 to 0.072 mm)

0.584 to 0.635 mm 0.0158 to 0.0552 in (0.40 to 1.40 mm)

0.584 to 0.635 mm 0.0158 to 0.0552 in (0.40 to 1.40 mm)

0.584 to 0.635 mm 0.0149 to 0.552 in (0.38 to 1.40 mm)

0.584 to 0.635 mm 0.0149 to 0.552 in (0.38 to 1.40 mm)

3.59 to 3.84 mm

3.59 to 3.84 mm

2.63 to 2.73 mm

2.63 to 2.73 mm

Connecting rods (all models) Material

Forged steel.

Big-end bore Small and bush bore Maximum weight difference between rods

.

1709 and 1854 cc

1985 cc

48.146 to 48.158 mm 20.640 to 20.647 mm (1709cc) 22.232 mm (1854 cc) 0.212 oz (6.0 g)

56.000 to 56.019 mm 24.005 to 24.010 mm

Crankshaft (all models) Material

...

Forged steel.

Crankpin diameter: Standard 1st undersize ... 2nd undersize 3rd undersize 4th undersize Main bearing journal diameter; Standard 1st undersize ... 2nd undersize 3rd undersize 4th undersize Max. out of round

1709 cc, 1854 cc

1985 cc upto 1975

1985 cc 1975 onwards

44.450 to 44.463 mm

51.987 51.737 51.487 51.237 50.987

— — —

— 53.987 to 54.000 mm — — — —

Endfloat of crankshaft ... Main bearing running clearance...

to to to to to

52.000 51.750 51.500 51.250 51.000

mm mm mm mm mm

51.981 51.731 51.481 51.237 50.987

to to to to to

52.000 51.750 51.500 51.250 51.000

mm mm mm mm mm

57.987 to 57.737 to 57.487 to 57.237 to 56.987 to 0.05 mm

58.000 57.750 57.500 57.250 57.000

mm mm mm mm mm

57.981 57.731 57.481 57.237 56.987

to to to to to

58.000 57.750 57.500 57.250 57.000

mm mm mm mm mm

1709 cc 1854 cc

1985 cc

0.0032 to 0.0098 in (0.08 to 0.25 mm) 0.0009 to 0.0025 in (0.025 to 0.064 mm)

0.0032 to 0.0110 in (0.08 to 0.28 mm) 0.0010 to 0.0029 in (0.026 to 0.076 mm) 1975 on 0.0008 to 0.0024 in (0.020 to 0.062 mm) 0.0010 to 0.0030 in (0.026 to 0.076 mm) 1975 on 0.0008 to 0.0024 in (0.020 to 0.062 mm)

0.0008 to 0.0023 in (0.020 to 0.058 mm)

Big-end bearing running clearance

Camshaft (all models) No. of bearings

...

Bearing diameter Camshaft endfloat Valve timing (carburettor models); Inlet starts Inlet ends Exhaust starts Exhaust ends

.

5

1709 cc 1854 cc

1985 cc (upto 1975)

1985 (1975 on)

31.75 mm 0.10 to 0.20 mm

25.94 mm 0.08 to 0.25 mm

28.94 mm 0.08 to 0.25 mm

12°BTDC 52°ABDC 52°BBDC 12°ATDC

26° 70° 70° 26°

12° 56° 56° 12°

BTDC ABDC BBDC ATDC

BTDC ABDC BBDC ATDC

16

Chapter 1/Engine

Valve timing (fuel injection models):

Inlet starts . Inlet ends . Exhaust starts . Exhaust ends . Valves (all models) Valve seat angle in cylinder head Seat width: 1709 cc, 1854 cc . 1985 cc upto 1975 . 1985 cc 1975 on

Valve stem diameter: Inlet . Exhaust . Valve stem to guide clearance (maximum) ... . Valve head diameter: Inlet ... ... . Exhaust . Valve guide length . Valve guide outer diameter Guide bore in cylinder head Valve spring free-length... Tappet diameter... ... . Tappet length Tappet bore in cylinder head ... Tappet shim diameter ... . Tappet shim thickness.

1709 cc

1854 cc

1985 cc (upto 1975)

1985 cc (1975 on)

12° 52° 52° 12°

16° 56° 56° 16°

26° 70° 70° 26°

10° 54° 46° 18°

BTDC ABDC BBDC ATDC

...

...

...

...

... ...

...

... ...

... ...

.

Oil filter type Oil pressure warning light illuminates at Pressure relief valve opens: Vane type . Bi-rotor type: 1709 cc, 1854 cc 1985cc . Oil capacity .

BTDC ABDC BBDC ATDC

... ...

2.2 to 2.5 mm 1.6 to 2.7 mm 1.0 to 2.0 mm

1709 cc 1854CC

1985 cc (up to 1975)

1985 cc (1975 on)

7.89 to 7.90 mm 7.87 to 7.88 mm

7.960 to 7.975 mm 7.945 to 7.960 mm

7.960 to 7.975 mm 7.955 to 7.980 mm

0.020 in (0.5 mm)

0.020 in (0.5 mm)

0.020 in (0.5 mm)

36.6 mm 32.5 mm 49.0 mm 13.0 mm 12.69 to 12.71 mm 42.4 mm 33.34 to 33.35 mm 27.0 mm 33.37 to 33.38 mm 15.5 mm 1.77 to 2.89 mm in 23 thicknesses of 0.050 mm steps

42.0 mm 35.5 mm 49.0 mm 13.0 mm 13.000 to 13.018 mm 44.3 mm 37.87 to 37.98 mm 33.0 mm 38.000 to 38.016 mm 15.5 mm 1.77 to 2.89 mm in 23 thicknesses of 0.050 mm steps

42.0 mm 35.5 mm 46.65 mm 13.0 mm 13.000 to 13.018 mm 44.3 mm 37.87 to 37.98 mm 33.0 mm 38.000 to 38.016 mm 15.5 mm 1.77 ro 2.89 mm in 23 thicknesses of 0.050 mm steps

... ... ...

...

•••

...

... ... ...

0.008 to 0.010 in (0.20 to 0.25 mm) 0.016 to 0.018 in (0.40 to 0.45 mm) 0.006.to 0.012 in (0.15 to 0.30 mm) 0.014 to 0.020 in (0.35 to 0.50 mm) 0.002 to 0.005 in (0.05 to 0.13 mm)

... ...

Forced flow with oil pump driven in conjunction with distributor from idler shaft. Full flow, disposable element or cartridge. 4.2 Ib/in2 (0.3 kg/cm^) 54 to 60 Ib/in2 (3.8 to 4.2 kg/cm^)

...

...

...

.

Torque wrench settings 1709 cc and 1854 cc engines Main bearing bolts Big-end bolts Camshaft bearing bolts. Crankshaft pulley bolt ... Cylinder head bolts and nuts ... Flywheel bolts. Oil pump bolts. Oil filter centre bolt ... . Idler shaft retainer plate bolts ... Idler shaft sprocket bolts Camshaft sprocket bolts Engine to transmission bolts . Inlet manifold bolts . Exhaust manifold bolts.

BTDC ABDC BBDC ATDC

45°

Valve clearances for setting-up cold: Inlet ... ... . *.* ... •*. ... ... ... ... Exhaust ... . Valve clearances — service tolerances (cold) ... ... ... ... Inlet ... ... . . Exhaust . Idler shaft endfloat: Max ... . Lubrication system (all models) Type .

BTDC ABDC BBDC ATDC

...

...

...

... ... ...

... ... ...

... ... ...

... ... ...

... ... ...

...

...

...

47 to 57 Ib/in^ (3.3 to 4.0 kg/cm^) 57 to 71 Ib/in2 (4.0 to 5.0 kg/cm^) 6 Imp. pints (3.5 litres, 4.5 US qts)

Ib/ft

Nm

58 40 18 62 54 44 18 18 18 18 10 18 18 28

80 55 25 86 75 61 25 25 25 25 14 25 25 39

17

Chapter 1/Engine Torque wrench settings

Ib/ft

Nm

1985 cc engine Main bearing bolts Big-end bolts Camshaft bearing bolts ... Crankshaft pulley bolt ... Cylinder head bolts Flywheel bolts ... Oil pump bolts Idler shaft retainer plate bolts Idler shaft sprocket bolts Camshaft sprocket bolts Inlet manifold bolts Exhaust manifold bolts ...

80 40 14 140 70 44 14 14 18 14 14 18

111 55 19 193 97 61 19 19 25 19 19 25

1 General description The engine is a four cylinder in-line single overhead camshaft unit. Originally, the Riccardo designed engine was built in England and used in the Triumph models as well as SAAB cars. In February 1971, the engine capacity was increased from 1709 cc to 1854 cc and the freewheel device used on earlier engines was discontinued. In June 1972, a larger 1985 cc engine was added to the range which had been developed and was built in Sweden by SAAB themselves. Engines of all capacities may be encountered with a carburettor or

Fig. 1.3 View of 1709 cc/1854 cc type engine (with carburettor) from left-hand side 1 2 3 4

Air cleaner OH pressure switch OH pump OH filter

5 6 7

Dipstick Gear shift rod Crankshaft pulley

Fig. 1.1 View of 1709 cc/1854 cc type engine (with fuel injection) from right-hand side

Fig. 1.2 View of 1709 cc/1854 cc type engine (with fuel injection) from left-hand side

Fig. 1.4 View of 1709 cc/1854 cc type engine (with carburettor) from right-hand side 1 2 3 4 5 6

Carburettor Crankcase ventilation valve Camshaft cover Alternator Driveshaft inner joint Mounting bracket

7 8 9 10 11

Transmission casing Starter motor Primary Clutch cover Distributor

18

Chapter 1/Engine

fuel injection system, and optional automatic transmission has been available since 1972. The engine is installed in the car so that the clutch is at the front end of the car and the unit is inclined at 45° in order to reduce the height of the bonnet line and to reduce the centre of gravity. The cylinder head is of crossflow design and is constructed of light alloy, the crankcase and cylinder block is of cast-iron. The crankshaft is of five main bearing type and drives a separate idler shaft which in turn drives the oil pump, water pump, distributor and fuel pump. The remaining engine internal components are of conventional design and construction.

2

Major operations possible with the engine in the car

The following operations can be carried out with the engine in the car, all other work must be done when the engine/gearbox has been

removed; 1 Removal, servicing and installation of the cylinder head. 2 Removal, servicing and instaliation of the oil pump. 3 Removal and installation of the engine ancillary components including the alternator, water pump, starter motor, distributor, dutch assembly. Reference should be made to the relevant Chapters of this manual for precise details.

3 Engine/transmission - method of removal It is recommended that the engine together with manual gearbox or automatic transmission is removed from the car as a complete Assembly whenever operations of a major nature are to be carried out on the engine or transmission. The engine/transmission is hc/isted upwards from the engine compartment.

r

Fig. 1.5 View of 1985 cc engine (with carburettor) from right-hand side

Fig. 1.7 View of 1985 cc engine (with fuel injection) from righthand side

Fig. 1.6 View of 1985 cc engine (with carburettor) from left-hand side

Fig. 1.8 View of 1985 cc engine (with fuel injection) from left-hand side

19

Chapter 1/Engine

4 Engine/manual gearbox - removal 1 Open the bonnet, release the hinge pivot screws and with the help of an assistant, lift the bonnet lid from the car. If air-conditioning system is installed, the system must be evacuated by a refrigeration engineer or your SAAB dealer and then the compressor and condenser removed from the engine compartment. 2 Disconnect the leads from the battery terminals and after releasing the clamp, remove the battery. 3 Open the heater bleed screw (up to 1973 models) and then drain the cooling system by opening the radiator and cylinder block taps.

If an oil cooler is fitted, disconnect the oil flow and return pipes and plug them. 4 Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose from the inlet manifold. 5 Disconnect the leads from the ignition coil, the resistor, the water temperature and oil pressure switches, the radiator fan and thermostat contact and the headlamps and headlamp lens wipers. 6 Remove the air cleaner (and pre-heater on carburettor models) complete with hoses and HT leads. 7 Disconnect the throttle control linkage. 8 Release the coolant hoses from the thermostat housing, the radiator, the inlet manifold and the water pump.

Engines with carburettors 9 Disconnect the fuel inlet pipe from the fuel pump. 10 Disconnect the choke control cable.

Engines with fuel injection 11 Disconnect the pressure sensor hose from the inlet manifold and disconnect the fuel lines from the injection valve. 12 Release the heater hoses. 13 Disconnect the leads from the warm-up regulator, the auxiliary air valve, the cold start valve and the thermo time switch.

On all models

Fig. 1.9 Opening the heater bleed screw (Sec. 4)

14 Disconnect the bonnet lock cable at the fascia panel and engine compartment rear bulkhead. 15 Unscrew and remove the two nuts and bolts which secure the radiator grille, also the four screws which retain the headlamps (photo). 16 On cars built up to 1972 remove the grille assembly (complete with radiator, fan and headlamp units) forwards and upwards. On later models, remove the headlamps before withdrawing the grille (photo). 17 Disconnect the clutch slave cylinder and tie it up out of the way. There is no need to disconnect the hydraulic system. 18 On models with a freewheel (1709 cc up to 1971) move the lever to the locked position, release the cable clamp at the gearbox and free the cable from the operating arm. 19 Disconnect the earth strap which is attached to the gearbox and remove the alternator (photo). 20 Jack-up the front of the car and support it securely under the bodyframe side members. 21 Make sure that the gear lever is in neutral and then remove the taper pin from the front end of the gearshift rod joint. There are two types of joint — steel and plastic. Under no circumstances should the pin be knocked loose from plastic joints. Instead, draw the pin out

Fig. 1.10 Air cleaner and connections (1972 models) (Sec. 4) 1 2

Air cleaner Pre-heater valve

4.15 Front grille assembly bolt

3 4

Cold air hose Warm air hose

Fig. 1.11 Gearshift rod joint and taper pins (Sec. 4)

4.16 Removing radiator/grille assembly

4.19 Transmission earthing strap

20

Chapter 1/Engine

using a nut (and spacers if necessary) fitted to the appropriate end of the pin. Pull the flexible boot free from the groove on the gear selector rod. Separate the joint. 22 Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold and disconnect the speedometer cable from the gearbox (photo). 23 If power steering is fitted (option on late models), disconnect the pipes from the belt driven pump. 24 Support the weight of the engine/gearb)ox with a suitable hoist and disconnect both engine mountings. 25 Release the clips from the larger diameters of the flexible bellows on the inner universal joints of the driveshafts. On cars built in 1968 69, rotate the driveshafts so that the 'T' piece of the inner joints are parallel with the ground. 26 With 1968 - 69 models, raise the engine/gearbox about two inches (50.8 mm) and separate the inner universal joints of the driveshaft from the transmission. Take care not to displace the needle roller bearings. Disengage the left-hand joint first followed by the righthand one, in each case pushing the engine/gearbox as far as possible in the opposite direction. 27 With 1970 and later models, disconnect the outer end of the track control arm on the right-hand side of the car. Turn the steering wheel to full left lock and disengage the right-hand inner universal joint from the transmission. Raise the engine/gearbox slightly and disengage the left-hand inner universal joint. 28 Raise the engine/gearbox carefully by means of the hoist and disconnect the starter motor leads. 29 Hoist the power unit up and out of the engine compartment (photo). 30 Leave a plastic bag over each universal joint using a rubber band, to prevent dirt entering the joint.

5 Engine/automatic transmission - removal 1 The procedure is very similar to that described in the preceding Section with the following additions. 2 Remove the protective shield from the flange joint of the exhaust manifold and downpipe. 3 Unbolt the small plate which retains the speed selector cable to the automatic transmission casing. Move the speed selector lever lO position '1' and pull the outer cable from the transmission. A tool (no 8790388) is now required to release the inner cable but a suitable device can be made up from a piece of tubing. Once inserted the tool is rotated and its tang will release the inner cable from its anchorage.

6

6 Withdraw the clutch release lever in a downward direction, remove the dust excluder and then extract the lever upwards. 7 Free the locking ring and remove the sealing cap which covers the primary shaft. 8 Withdraw the screw from the end of the clutch input shaft and extract the washer and 'O' ring. A slide hammer (Tool no. 839027) should now be attached to the threaded hole in the end of the input shaft using a special attachment (Tool no. 839001) and the input shaft extracted. If these tools cannot be borrowed, a suitable substitute can be made up from a length of rod upon which a heavy weight is made to slide up to a stop. On no account attempt to remove the shaft by levering it or by gripping its splined end otherwise the shaft will be damaged and it will have to be renewed. 9 Remove the three screws which secure the clutch shaft bearing/seal retainer and let it hang loose. 10 Unscrew and remove all the screws from the mating flanges of the engine and transmission. Note particularly the bolt below and to the right of the flywheel housing (photo). 11 Using a hoist, lift the engine from the transmission and withdraw the clutch shaft bearing retainer as the engine rises. It is important to keep the screws carefully segregated, those which screw into the light alloy transmission casing have UNC (coarse) threads while those which screw into the cast-iron cylinder block have UNF (fine) threads.

7

Engine - separation from automatic transmission

1 Clean off all external dirt using paraffin and a brush or water soluble grease solvent. 2 Drain the engine oil. 3 Remove the cover from the driveplate. 4 Disconnect the downshift cable from the carburettor. 5 Remove all the screws from the mating flanges of the engine and transmission. On 1970 models only, one screw is located within the crankcase and can be reached by inserting a 14 inch socket through the engine drain plug hole. 6 Remove the crankcase ventilation device (where fitted) this is located on the right-hand side. 7 Unscrew and remove the four screws which secure the driveplate to the torque converter. On the two smaller engined cars, these screws are accessible through a cut-out in the starter mounting plate although the engine crankshaft will have to be turned to bring each screw into view. On 1985 cc engined cars, the screws are accessible through an aperture adjacent to the crankcase ventilation housing. 8 Lift the engine carefully from the transmission. If the transmission is not to be further dismantled, tie or wire the torque converter into its fully engaged position with the transmission oil pump.

Engine • separation from manual gearbox 8

1 Clean off all external dirt using paraffin and a brush or use water soluble grease solvent. 2 Drain the engine oil. 3 Remove the clutch cover. 4 Remove the starter motor. 5 Slacken the clutch adjustment by releasing the locknut and unscrewing the adjusting screw.

4.22 Exhaust downpipe to manifold joint

Engine ancillaries - removal

1 With the engine separated from the transmission, now is the time to remove the following components; The distributor cap and ignition cables (Chapter 4). The carburettor or throttle valve housing (fuel injection. Chapter 3). The camshaft cover. The air injection pump (emission control. Chapter 3).

Fig. 1.12 Disconnecting outer end of right-hand track control arm (Sec. 4)

4.29 Removing engine/transmission

Fig. 1.13 Tool for releasing speed selector cable (auto, trans¬ mission) (Sec. 5)

Fig. 1.15 Separating engine from manual transmission (Sec. 6)

Fig. 1.17 Removing throttle valve housing (fuel injection) (Sec. 8)

Fig. 1.14 Removing clutch input shaft (Sec. 6)

Fig. 1.16 Driveplate (auto, transmission) (Sec. 7) (Screw holes to torque converter arrowed)

Fig. 1.18 Withdrawing distributor (1985 cc engine) (Sec. 8)

22

Chapter 1/Engine

8.1 Removing inlet manifold

The distributor (Chapter 4)' (Fig. 1.18) The inlet manifold with lifting lug (Chapter 3) (photo). The alternator bracket (Chapter 10). The power steering pump (if fitted) - (Chapter 11). The oil filter (Section 18, this Chapter). The water pump (according to type, see Chapter 2). The thermostat housing (Chapter 2). The exhaust manifold (Chapter 3). The dutch assembly (Chapter 5).

*

Fig. 1.19 Removing the thermostat housing from a fuel injection engine (Sec. 8) 1 2 3 4

Thermoswitch Cooling system temperature gauge transmitter Temperature transmitter (injection system) Auxiliary air regulator Fig. 1.21 Tightening camshaft sprocket to mounting plate (Sec. 10)

Fig. 1.20 Removing the exhaust manifold (Sec. 8)

Fig. 1.22 Withdrawing cylinder head (Sec. 10)

23

Chapter 1/Engine

9 Engine dismantling - general 1 It is best to mount the engine on a dismantling stand but if one is not available, then stand the engine on a strong bench so as to be at a comfortable height. Failing this the engine can be stripped down on the floor. 2 During the dismantling process the greatest care should be taken to keep the exposed parts free from dirt. 3 Never immerse parts with oilways in paraffin, ie; the crankshaft, but to clean, wipe down carefully with a petrol dampened rag. Oilways can be cleaned out with wire. If an air line is present all parts can be blown dry and the oilways blown through as an added precaution. 4 Re-use of old engine gaskets is false economy and can give rise to oil and water leaks, if nothing worse. To avoid the possibility, or trouble after the engine has been reassembled, always use new gaskets throughout. 5 Do not throw the old gaskets away as it sometimes happens that an immediate replacement cannot be found and the old gasket is then very useful as a template. Hang up the old gaskets as they are removed on a suitable hook or nail. 6 Wherever possible, replace nuts, bolts and washers fingertight from wherever they were removed. This helps avoid later loss and muddle. If they cannot be replaced then lay them out in such a fashion that it is clear where they belong.

10 Camshaft and cylinder head - removal If the engine is in the car, disconnect the battery and drain the cooling system, disconnect all cylinder head connecting hoses, control cables and electrical leads. Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the manifold and the distributor cap and the high tension leads. Disconnect

the torsion stabilizer bars (1968-69 models only) and remove the camshaft cover. 1 Remove the camshaft chain sprocket. To do this, turn the crankshaft until no 1 piston is at TDC. Now turn the crankshaft until the camshaft sprocket screw which is masked by the mounting plate can be removed. Turn the crankshaft on to TDC again and screw an M8 nut onto the centre stud of the camshaft sprocket and tighten it against the mounting plate which is provided for the purpose, (later engines - use the camshaft sprocket screw instead of the nut). Unscrew the remaining sprocket securing screw and separate the sprocket from the plate so that the sprocket hangs free on the centre stud. Failure to tighten the centre stud nut securely will cause the chain tensioner to lock in a new position and make refitting the sprocket impossible until the engine has been removed, the timing cover withdrawn and the tensioner reset. 2 The camshaft can now be removed independently of the cylinder head if required, after removing the camshaft bearing caps or if preferred, together with the cylinder head as described in the follow¬ ing paragraph. 3 Remove all the cylinder head bolts or nuts not forgetting those located on the chain cover. On the two smaller engines, the cylinder head is retained by bolts and nuts. On the larger engine, bolts only are used. 4 Remove the cylinder head and the camshaft chain and sprocket will pass through the aperture in the front end of the cylinder head. Remove the cylinder head gasket. 5 If the engine has been removed from the car, then the retention of the chain tension by tightening the sprocket onto the mounting plate (see paragraph 1) is not necessary provided it is the intention to remove the timing cover later in the overhaul. If it is not proposed to remove the cover then again the chain tensioner must not be allowed to release from its compressed state as it cannot be reset from outside the cover.

2 Cylinder head 3 Core plug 4 Core plug 5 Screw plug 6 Stud 7 Stud 8 Washer 9 Nut 10 Collar 11 Collar 12 Valve seat 13 Valve seat 14 Valve guide 15 Valve 16 Valve 17 Valve spring 18 Spring seat 19 Spring retainer 20 Split collets 21 Tappet 22 Cam 23 Camshaft 24 Shim 25 Cylinder head gasket 26 Bolt 27 Bolt 28 Nut 29 Washer 30 Camshaft cover 31 Gasket 32 Flexible plug 33 Screw 34 Washer 35 Seal 36 Cover bolt 37 Washer

Fig. 1.23 Cylinder head components (1709 cc and 1854 cc engines)

24

A

Fig. 1.24 Cylinder head components (1985 cc engine) 1 Cylinder head 2 Core plug 3 Valve guide 4 Locating pin 5 Bolt 6 Washer 7 Camshaft bearing carrier 8 Sleeve 9 Bolt

W 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

Bolt Washer Cylinder head gasket Cylinder head bolt Washer Bolt Washer Valve

18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

Valve Spring seat Valve spring Retainer Split collets Tappet Camshaft bearing Camshaft

26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33

Cam Shim Camshaft cover Cover gasket Screw Washer Oil filler cap Seal

r

25

•I'p, I

I

*

Fig. 1.25 Timing components on 1709 cc and 1854 cc engines 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

V

Timing cover OH sea! Gasket Gasket Dowel Bolt Washer Cap Socket screw Seal

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Bolt Washer Nut Mounting plate Bolt Spring washer Crankshaft sprocket Idler shaft sprocket Camshaft sprocket Chain

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

Adjustable guide Fixed guide Chain tensioner Guide plate Bolt Spring washer Lockplate Bolt Bolt Lockwasher

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

Dowel pin Woodruff key Spacers OH thrower Pulley Bolt Washer Idler shaft Idler shaft retaining plate Screw

26

28'

14 16

3K 27. 32

-

©

tl-

12-

18

.15

^

26

-

^21

-25

'4y/

-24 -13

8

33

34

Fig. 1.26 Timing components (1985 cc engine) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Timing cover OH seai Gasket Gasket Bolt Bolt Bolt Bolt Washer

10 Crankshaft sprocket 11 Idler shaft sprocket 12 Camshaft sprocket 13 Woodruff key 14 Chain 15 Fixed guide 16 Adjustable guide 17 Chain tensioner

18 Guide plate 13 Bolt 20 Washer 21 Bolt 22 Washer 23 Mounting plate 24 Bolt 25 Washer

26 Bolt 27 Dowel pin 28 Idler shaft 29 Bolt 30 Washer 31 Retainer plate 32 Socket screw 33 Pulley 34 Bolt

Chapter 1/Engine

11 Valves - removal 1 With the cylinder head removed, unbolt the camshaft bearing caps and withdraw the camshaft. 2 From each valve spring withdraw the tappet and its internal shim. The shims are of differing thicknesses as selected for valve clearance adjustment (see Section 39, of this Chapter) and on no account must they be allowed to fall from the tappets during the dismantling operations and get mixed up with those from other tappets. The shim may be stuck inside the tappet by adhesion of the oil but it can be released by washing out the tappet in paraffin or petrol. Keep each tappet and its shim in strict sequence for exact replacement. 3 On the two smaller engines, the camshaft bearing assembly is integral with the cylinder head but on the 1985 cc unit it can be unbolted. 4 Using a suitable compressor, compress each valve spring in turn, extract the split cotters, release the compressor and remove the retainer, spring, spring seat and valve; keep each valve in order for exact refitting. A sheet of card with holes (numbered 1 to 8) punched in it is useful for this purpose.

12 Camshaft chain and tensioner - removal 1 Having removed the cylinder head as described in Section 10, unscrew and remove the bolt which secures the crankshaft pulley. In order to prevent the crankshaft turning, jam the teeth of the starter ring gear with a large screwdriver or a cold chisel. 2 Remove the crankshaft pulley using a suitable two or three-legged puller. 3 Unbolt and remove the chain cover, remove the tensioner. 4 Unbolt and remove the camshaft sprocket mounting plate complete with sprocket and chain. 5 Remove the chain guides. 6 From the front of the crankshaft, remove the oil thrower. If the crankshaft sprocket is to be withdrawn, remove it with a two or threelegged puller. 7 Unbolt and remove the idler shaft sprocket and then remove the two socket screws from the idler shaft locking plate and extract the plate and the idler shaft. Note that the idler shaft cannot be withdrawn until the water pump is removed (see Section 8).

13 Pistons/connecting rods - removal and dismantling 1 Having removed the cylinder head (Section 10) and idler shaft (Section 12) check that the connecting rods and their caps have been marked 1 to 4 numbering from the crankshaft pulley end of the engine. The numbers should be adjacent and away from the side of the engine

13.1 Connecting rod and cap marks

27

on which the oil pump and idler shaft are located (photo). 2 Detach the oil pump pick-up tube and its gasket and then remove each big-end bearing cap in turn and push the piston/connecting rod assembly out of the top of the cylinder block. 3 If the big-end bearing shells are not being renewed, make sure that they are kept together with their respective rod or cap. 4 If the piston rings are to be removed then they must not be over expanded as they are withdrawn from their grooves or they will snap as they are very brittle. The best method to remove them is to slide two or three old feeler blades behind them and pull the rings upwards off the piston using a twisting motion. The feeler blades will prevent the lower rings dropping into an empty groove. 5 The pistons can be removed from the connecting rods after extracting the circlips from each end of the gudgeon pin and pushing the gudgeon pin out using finger pressure.

14 Flywheel, crankshaft and main bearings • removal 1 Having removed the cylinder head, timing chain components and piston/connecting rods as described in earlier Sections of this Chapter, unbolt and remove the flywheel from the crankshaft flange. On cars equipped with automatic transmission, a driveplate is fitted instead of a flywheel. 2 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft oil seal retainer. 3 Check that the main bearing caps and their adjacent crankcase webs are marked 1 to 5, numbering from the crankshaft pulley end of the engine and note which way round the caps are fitted (numbers adjacent) (photo). 4 Unbolt the main bearing caps and remove them.If the bearing shells are not being renewed, keep them carefully identified in respect of cap and crankcase seat so that they can be installed in their original positions. 5 Lift the crankshaft from the crankcase and extract the thrust washers from their location on either side of the centre main bearing.

15 Lubrication system 1 The engine lubrication system is of pressurised type, the oil pressure being generated by an externally mounted oil pump which is driven by a shaft from the distributor driven gear which in turn is meshed with the idler shaft gear. 2 A pressure relief valve is located in the pump and the externally mounted oil filter is of full-flow type. 3 The oil pump may be one of two types depending upon the engine size and date of production. Where a vane type oil pump is fitted, then an oil filter is used which has a renewable element. Where a bi-rotor type pump is used then a disposable type cartridge filter is fitted.

14.3 Main bearing cap mark

Chapter 1/Engine

28

Fig. 1.27 Internal components of 1709 cc and 1854 cc type engines

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Crankshaft Big-end cap Small end bush Big-end bolt Big-end nut Bearing shell Piston Top compression ring Second compression ring OH control ring segment OH con trol ring rail

12 Gudgeon pin 13 Circlip 14 Main bearing shell 15 Thrust washers 16 Spigot bush 17 Flywheel 18 Starter ring gear 19 Dowel pin 20 Flywheel bolt 21 Driveplate (auto, trans.) 22 Driveplate bolt

Fig. 1.28 Internal components of 1985 cc type engine / 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Crankshaft Big-end cap Big-end bolt Big-end nut Small end bush Bearing shell Piston Top compression ring Second compression ring OH control ring

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

CircHp Main bearing shells Crankshaft thrust b Flywheel Starter ring gear Dowel pin Flywheel bolt Spigot bearing Driveplate (auto, tr Driveplate bolt

16 Oil pump (vane type) - removal and overhaul

vmr

1 Unscrew and remove the four retaining bolts. 2 Withdraw the oil pump complete with driveshaft and extract the sealing 'O' ring. 3 Hold the pump so that the guide sleeve points downwards and prise off the cover retaining spring clip and twist the cover to one side. The cover will pivot on a hollow dowel pin. 4 Extract the rotor vanes and spacer rings. 5 The pressure relief valve can be dismantled by extracting its retaining circlip. 6 The internal components can be renewed if worn or a bi-rotor type fitted instead if the original pump is worn excessively. 7 If new vanes are being fitted make sure that their rounded edges are outwards in contact with the pump housing. Lubricate all internal parts with engine oil as they are installed.

17 Oil pump (bi-rotor type) - removal and overhaul

Fig. 1.29 Engine lubrication system (Sec. 15)

1 Unscrew and remove the four retaining bolts and withdraw the pump and extract the sealing ring which is located between the pump and the intermediate plate. The driveshaft will remain within the

29

Chapter 1/Engine

crankcase attached to the distributor drive gear. 2 Remove the tvVo screws which secure the cover to the housing. 3 Remove the cover and extract the rotors and 'O' ring. 4 The pressure relief valve can be removed if the split pin is first withdrawn. 5 The endfloat of the rotors should be between 0.002 and 0.004 in (0.05 and 0.09 mm). If it exceeds this tolerance, the end face of the oil pump housing can be rubbed down by holding it squarely on a sheet of abrasive placed on a piece of plate glass. Excessive wear between the rotors can only be rectified by renewing the pump. 6 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling but note that the chamfered edge of the outer rotor is nearest the driveshaft.

Fig. 1.30 Exploded view of vane type oil pump (Sec. 16) / 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Cover Dowel pin ‘O' ring 'O' ring OH pressure switch Drive gear Centre bolt Seal OH pump body insert 'O' ring Pump spindle Vane Thrust washer

15 16 17 18 19 20 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47

OH pressure relief valve assy. Seal Piston Spring Stop Circlip 'O' ring Bolt Washer Driveshaft OH pick-up tube Gasket Screw Spring washer

Fig. 1.31 Exploded view of bi-rotor type (^il pump (Sec. 17) 29 30 32 33 34 35

Pump body Rotors Cover Piston Spring Stop

36 37 38 39 40

Seal Split pin Seal Screws Seal

Chapter 1/Engine

30

18.5 Renewing separate element type oil filter

18 Oil filter - removal and refitting

Separate element type 1 Clean the exterior of the filter housing and unscrew the centre bolt. 2 As the filter assembly is withdrawn, expect some loss of oil and catch it in a suitable container. 3 Extract the element from the housing, tip out the oil and wipe the interior of the housing clean. 4 Pick out the rubber sealing ring from its groove in the cylinder block and press the new one supplied with the filter element into position. 5 Fit the new element into the housing, offer the housing to the sealing ring and tighten the centre bolt to a torque of not more than 18 Ib/ft (25 Nm) (photo).

Disposable cartridge type 6 Unscrew the filter using a special wrench or one of chain type. In extreme cases, a worm-drive clip can be fitted to the cartridge to provide a leverage point or a screwdriver driven through the cartridge casing if sufficient grip cannot otherwise be obtained. 7 Smear the rubber seal of the new cartridge with grease and then screw it on by hand only. 8 Run the engine (noting that the oil pressure warning light will remain on for a few seconds until the filter fills with oil) and check for leaks. 9 Whenever a new oil filter is fitted, the engine oil will subsequently require topping-up to make up for the oil absorbed by the new filter element.

19 Crankcase ventilation system Fig. 1.32 Exploded view of oil filter (separate element type) (Sec. 18) 2 3 4 5 6 7

Bow! Centre bolt Retainer Seal Element Sealing ring

8 9 10 11 12

Spring Cap Spacer Seat Spring dip

1 The system is of fully enclosed type. Air is drawn through the air cleaner and into the oil filler tube passing into the crankcase and then emerging from the camshaft cover and being drawn into the inlet manifold. The air which is now contaminated with fuel and oil vapour is burned in the engine combustion chambers. 2 A flame trap and a regulating valve are incorporated in the hoses of the system. 3 Maintenance consists of keeping the flame trap and regulating valve clean and making sure that the hoses are securely connected.

r

31 Valve

j

Valve cover

Valve

Closed cap oil filler tube

Flame guard

Oil splash guard

Fig. 1.33 Crankcase ventilation system 1709 cc and 1854 cc engine (Sec. 19)

Camshaft cover

Inlet manifold

Fig. 1.34 Crankcase ventilation system 1985 cc engine (Sec. 19) Above - fuel injection type; below - carburettor type

K.

Intake manifold

'T' nipple with restriction

32

Chapter 1/Engine

20 Crankshaft and main bearings - examination and renovation With the engine stripped down and all parts thoroughly cleaned, it is now time to examine everything for wear. The items should be checked and where necessary renewed or renovated, as described in the following Sections. 1 Examine the crankpin and main journal surfaces for signs of scoring or scratches. Check the ovality of the crankpins at different positions with a micrometer. If more than specified out of round, the crankpin will have to be reground. It will also have to be reground if there are any scores or scratches present. Also check the journals in the same fashion. 2 If it is necessary to regrind the crankshaft and fit new bearings your local SAAB garage or engineering works will be able to decide how much metal to grind off and the size of new bearing shells. The crankshaft can only be reground once before hardening will be required. 3 Full details of crankshaft regrinding tolerances and bearing undersizes are given in Specifications. 4 The main bearing clearances may be established by using a strip of Plastigage between the crankshaft journals and the main bearing/shell caps. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to the specified torque. Remove the cap and compare the flattened Plastigage strip with the index provided. The clearance should be compared with the tolerances in Specifications. 5 Temporarily refit tne crankshaft to the crankcase having refitted the upper halves of the shell main bearings in their locations. Fit the centre main bearing cap only, complete with shell bearing and tighten the securing bolts to torque. Using a feeler gauge, check the endfloat by pushing and pulling the crankshaft. Where the endfloat is outside the specified tolerance, the centre bearing shells will have to be renewed. 6 Later models have colour coded bearing shells which permit selective fitting of the upper and lower shells for more precise running clearance. 7 On the two smaller engines, check the spigot bush in the centre of the flywheel mounting flange of the crankshaft. If it is worn it can be removed by tapping a thread into it and extracting it with a bolt or by filling the bush with grease and driving a close fitting rod into it. The hydraulic pressure created will eject the bush. Drive in the new busn using a suitable drift. 8 On the 1985 cc engine, a bearing is used instead of a bush and this is fitted in the centre of the flywheel (see Fig.1.28 of this Chapter).

21 Cylinder bores - examination and renovation 1 The cylinder bores must be examined for taper, ovality, scoring and scratches. Start by carefully examining the top of the cylinder bores. If they are at all worn a very slight ridge will be found on the thrust side. This marks the top of the piston ring travel. The owner will have a good indication of the bore wear prior to dismantling the engine, or removing the cylinder head. Excessive oil consumption accompanied by blue smoke from the exhaust is a sure sign of worn cylinder bores and piston rings. 2 Measure the bore diameter just under the ridge with a micrometer and compare it with the diameter at the bottom of the bore, which is not

Fig. 1.35 Checking crankshaft bearing running clearance (Sec. 20}

subject to wear. If the difference between the two measurements is more than 0.008 in (0.2032 mm) then it will be necessary to fit special pistons and rings or to have the cylinders rebored and fit oversize pistons. If no micrometer is available remove the rings from the piston and place the piston in each bore in turn about threequarters of the way down the bore. If an 0.0005 to 0.002 in (0.014 to 0,040 mm) feeler gauge slid between the piston and cylinder wall requires less than a pull of between 1.8 to 2.6 lb (0.8164 to 1.179 kg) to withdraw it, using a spring balance, then remedial action must be taken. Oversize pistons are available as listed in Specifications. 3 These are accurately machined to just below the indicated measure¬ ments so as to provide correct running clearences in bores bored out to the exact oversize dimensions. 4 If the bores are slightly worn but not so badly worn as to justify reboring them, then special oil control rings and pistons can be fitted which will restore compression and stop the engine burning oil. Several different types are available and the manufacturer's instructions concerning their fitting must be followed closely. 5 If new pistons are being fitted and the bores have not been reground, if it is essential to slightly roughen the hard glaze on the sides of the bores with fine glass paper so the new piston rings will have a chance to beo in properly.

22 Pistons and rings - examination and renovation 1 If new pistons are to be installed, they will be selected from grades available (see Specifications) after measuring the cylinder bores as described in tne preceding Section or will be provided in tne appropriate oversize by the repairer who has rebored the cylinder oiock. 2 If the original pistons are to be refitted, carefully remove the piston rings as described in Section 13. 3 Clean the grooves and rings free from carbon, taking care not to scratch the aluminium surfaces of the pistons. 4 If new rings are to be fitted, then order the top compression ring to be stepped to prevent it impinging on the 'wear ring' which will almost certainly have been formed at the top of the cylinder bore. 5 Before fitting the rings to the pistons, push each ring in turn down to the part of its respective cylinder bore (use an inverted piston to do this and to keep the ring square in the bore) and measure the ring endgap, using a feeler blade. The gap should be as listed in Specifications. 6 The piston rings should now be tested in their respective grooves for side clearance which again should be as shown in Specifications. 7 Where necessary a piston ring which is slightly tight in its groove may be rubbed down holding it perfectly squarely on an oilstone or a sheet of fine emery cloth laid on a piece of plate glass. Excessive tighteness can only be rectified by having the grooves machined out. 8 The gudgeon pin should be a push fit into the piston at room

Fig. 1.36 Testing the fit of a piston in a cylinder bore (Sec. 21)

Chapter 1/Engine

33

3 On the 1985 cc engine, the camshaft bearings form part of a separate carrier which can be renewed independently of the cylinder head.

27 Timing sprockets, chain and tensioner - examination and renovation 1 Examine the teeth on the crankshaft, idler shaft and camshaft sprockets for wear. Each tooth forms an inverted 'V' with the gearwheel periphery, and if worn the side of each tooth under tension will be slightly concave in shape when compared with the other side of the tooth, ie; one side of the inverted 'V' will be concave when compared with the other. If any sign of wear is present the gearwheels must be renewed. 2 Examine the links of the chain for side slackness and renew the chain if any slackness is noticeable when compared with a new chain. It is a sensible precaution to renew the chain at about 30000 miles (48000 km) and at a lesser mileage if the engine is stripped down for a major overhaul. The actual rollers on a very badly worn chain may be slightly grooved. 3 The chain on the two smaller engines is of single roller type while the 1985 cc engine has a double roller (Duplex) type. 4 Renew any worn components of the chain tensioner or guides.

28 Valves and valve seats - examination and renovation Fig. 1.37 Checking a piston ring end gap (Sec. 22)

temperature. It it appears slack, then both the piston and gudgeon pin should be renewed.

23 Connecting rods - examination and renovation 1 Big-end bearing failure is indicated by a knocking from within the crankcase and a slight drop in oil pressure. 2 Examine the big-end bearing surfaces for pitting and scoring. Renew the shells in accordance with the sizes specified in Specifications. Where the crankshaft has been reground, the correct undersize big-end shell bearings will be supplied by the repairer. 3 Should there be any suspicion that a connecting rod is bent or twisted or the small end bush no longer provides a push fit for the gudgeon pin then the complete connecting rod assembly should be exchanged for a reconditioned one but ensure that the comparative weight of the two rods is within 0.212 oz (6.0 g). 4 Measurement of the big-end bearing clearances may be carried out on a similar manner to that described for the main bearings in Section 20 but tighten the securing nuts on the cap bolts to the specified torque.

24 Flywheel (or driveplate) - examination and renovation 1 If the driven plate mating surface of the flywheel is deeply scored or grooved then the flywheel should be renewed. 2 Similarly if the teeth of the starter ring gear on either the flywheel or driveplate (automatic transmission) are worn or chipp>ed, the complete assembly should be renewed. Reconditioning of the flywheel or driveplate is not recommended due to the balancing which is carried out during manufacture of the components.

25 Idler shaft - examination and renovation 1 Examine the bearing surfaces of the idler shaft, if these are scored or worn, renew the shaft. 2 If the fuel pump cam or the gears which drive the water pump, oil pump or distributor are worn then the idler shaft will have to be renewed.

26 Camshaft and bearings - examination and renovation 1 Examine the camshaft bearing surfaces and cam lobes for wear or scoring. If evident then the camshaft will have to be renewed. 2 On the two smaller engines, the camshaft bearings form part of the cylinder head and in the event of wear occurring in these, the complete cylinder head will have to be renewed.

1 Examine the heads of the valves for pitting and burning, expecially the heads of the exhaust valves. The valve seatings should be examined at the same time. If the pitting on valve and seat is very slight the marks can be removed by grinding the seats and valves together with coarse, and then fine, valve grinding paste. After valve grinding, the valve clearances will require adjusting (see Section 39). 2 Where bad pitting has occurred to the valve seats it will be necessary to recut them and fit new valves. If the valve seats are so worn that they cannot be recut, then it will be necessary to fit new valve seat inserts. These latter two jobs should be entrusted to the local SAAB agent or engineering works. In practice it is very seldom that the seats are so badly worn that they require renewal. Normally, it is the valve that is too badly worn for replacement, and the owner can easily purchase a new set of valves and match them to the seats by valve grinding. 3 Valve grinding is carried out as follows:Smear a trace of coarse carborundum paste on the seat face and apply a suction grinder tool to the valve head. With a semi-rotary motion, grind the valve head to its seat, lifting the valve occasionally to redistribute the grinding paste. When a dull matt even surface finish is produced on both the valve seat and the valve, wipe off the paste and repeat the process with fine carborundum paste, lifting and turning the valve to redistribute the paste as before. A light spring placed under the valve head will greatly ease this operation. When a smooth unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is produced, on both valve and valve seat faces, the grinding operation is complete. 4 Scrape away all carbon from the valve head and the valve stem. Carefully clean away every trace of grinding compound, taking great care to leave none in the ports or in the valve guides. Clean the valves and valve seats with a paraffin soaked rag then with a clean rag, and finally, if an air line is available, blow the valves, valve guides and valve ports clean.

29 Valve guide and springs - examination and renovation 1 Severe wear in a valve guide may be due to a bent valve stem. To estimate the wear, fully insert the valve and then deflect its tip in the opposite directions. If the deflection is more than about 0.02 in (0.50 mm) the valve guide must be renewed. This is a job for your SAAB dealer as the cylinder head must be heated and the guides reamed after installation. 2 The valve springs should be measured against the free-lengths quoted in 'Specifications' and renewed if they prove shorter as a result of continuous compression. In any event it is worthwhile to renew the valve springs if they have been in use for 30000 miles (48000 km) or more.

30 Cylinder head - decarbonising and examination 1 With the cylinder head removed, use a blunt scraper to remove all trace of carbon and deposits from the combustion spaces and ports.

34

Chapter 1/Engine

Remember that the cylinder head is aluminium alloy and can be damaged easily during the decarbonising operations. Scrape the cylinder head free from scale or old pieces of gasket or jointing compound. Clean the cylinder head by washing it in paraffin and take particular care to pull a piece of rag through the ports and cylinder head bolt holes. Any grit remaining in these recesses may well drop onto the gasket or cylinder block mating surfaces as the cylinder head is lowered into position and could lead to a gasket leak after reassembly is complete. 2 With the cylinder head clean test for distortion if a history of coolant leakage has been apparent. Carry out this test using a straight edge and feeler gauges or a piece of plate glass. If the surface shows any warping in excess of 0.0039 in (0.1 mm) then the cylinder head will have to be resurfaced which is a job for a specialist engineering company. 3 Clean the pistons and top of the cylinder bores. If the pistons are still in the block then it is essential that great care is taken to ensure that no carbon gets into the cylinder bores as this could scratch the cylinder walls or cause damage to the piston and rings. To ensure this does not happen, first turn the crankshaft so that two of the pistons are at the top of their bores. Stuff rag into the other two bores or seal them off with paper and masking tape. The waterways should also be covered with small pieces of masking tape to prevent paricles of carbon entering the cooling system and damaging the water pump. Press a little grease into the gap between the cylinder walls and the two pistons which are to be worked on. With a blunt scraper carefully scrape away the carbon from the piston crown, taking care not to scratch the aluminium. Also scrape away the carbon from the surrounding lip of the cylinder wall. When all carbon has been removed, scrape away the grease which will now be contaminated with carbon particles, taking care not to press any into the bores. To assist prevention of carbon build-up the piston crown can be polished with a metal polish. Remove the rags or masking tape from the other two cylinders and turn the crankshaft so that the two pistons which were at the bottom are now at the top. Place rag or masking tape in the cylinders which have been decarbonised and proceed as just described.

31 Oil seals - renewal 1 The engine oil seals should be renewed as a matter of routine whenever the engine is dismantled for major overhaul. 2 The timing cover oil sea! can be renewed once the engine has been removed from the car and the crankshaft pulley withdrawn. The seal can be prised out without unbolting the timing cover but if the cover is removed and it is not intended to separate the engine from the transmission then the gasket between the cover and the gearbox will be damaged and a new section will have to be cut from a complete gasket before the cover is bolted back into position. Oil the lips of the seal before installing it. 3 The oil sea! at the flywheel end of the crankshaft can be renewed if desired while the engine is still in the car but the clutch and flywheel will first have to be removed. The oil seal is held in a bolted-on retainer on the two smaller capacity engines and by an endplate on the 1985 cc engine. The oil seal can be prised from its location and a new one driven in using a suitable tubular drift. If the retainer or plate is removed in order to renew the oil seal and it is not intended to separate the engine from the gearbox then the gasket between the retainer or plate and the gearbox will be damaged and a new section will have to be cut from a complete gasket before the retainer or plate is bolted back into position. Oil the lips of the seal before installing it.

32 Engine - reassembly general 1 To ensure maximum life with minimum trouble from a rebuilt engine, not only must everything be correctly assembled, but every¬ thing must be spotlessly clean, all the oilways must be clear, locking washers and spring washers must always be fitted where indicated and all bearing and other working surfaces must be thoroughly lubricated during reassembly. 2 Observe the clearances and torque wrench settings given in Specifications, guessing will not do where modern engines are concerned.

33 Crankshaft, main bearings and flywheel - refitting 1

Clean both sides of the main bearing shells and install them in their

Fig. 1.38 Removing timing cover oil seal (Sec. 31)

Fig. 1.39 Removing oil seal from retainer (1709 cc 1854 cc crankshaft) (Sec. 31)

Fig. 1.40 Crankshaft oil seal retaining plate (1985 cc engine) (Sec. 31)

crankcase recesses (photo). 2 Oil the bearing shells and lower the crankshaft into position (photo). 3 Fit the crankshaft thrust washers to each side of the centre main bearing web of the crankcase. Make sure that the lubrication grooves of the washers face outwards (photo). 4 Fit the bearing shells to the main bearing caps, oil them and install them in their correct sequence making sure that no 1 is at the pulley end of the crankshaft and the caps are the correct way round (photo). 5 Tighten the main bearing cap bolts to the specified torque (photo). 6 Fit the crankshaft oil seal in its retainer or plate according to type (see Section 31). Bolt on the separate engine rear plate (where fitted) (photos). 7 Install the flywheel (or driveplate - auto transmission) apply a thread locking compound to the flywheel bolt threads and tighten to specified torque wrench setting (photo). 8 A locating dowel prevents incorrect fitting of the flywheel (photo).

35

Chapter 1/Engine

33.1 Oiling crankcase main bearing shells

33.2 Installing crankshaft

33.3 Crankshaft thrust washer

33.4 Installing main bearing cap shell

33.5 Tightening a main bearing bolt

33.6A Installing crankshaft rear oil seal and retainer

33.6B Engine rear plate

33.7 Tightening a flywheel bolt

33.8 Flywheel locating dowel

34 Piston/connecting rod - reassembly and installation 1 The piston must be connected to the connecting rod so that the word 'front', arrow or notch on the piston crown will face the timing chain end of the engine when installed and the marks on the connecting rod and big-end cap will be towards the side of the engine to which the oil pump is installed. 2 Use new circlips at each end of the gudgeon pin. 3 Install the piston rings by reversing the removal process (see Section 13). Start with the three section oil control ring, then the thicker lower compression ring (marked TOP on one side) and finally fit the top compression ring. Once installed in their grooves, twist the rings to stagger the end gaps to prevent gas blow-by. 4 Clean both sides of the big-end bearing shells and fit them to the connecting rod and the cap (photos). 5 Oil the piston rings liberally and the cylinder bores and install a

piston ring compressor to the first piston (no 1 connecting rod assembly). 6 Insert the connecting rod into the cylinder bore nearest the timing chain end of the engine so that the word 'front', the arrow or the notch on the piston crown is towards the timing chain (photo). 7 With the shoulders of the piston ring compressor resting squarely on the top of the cylinder block, place the wooden handle of a hammer on the centre of the piston crown and then strike the head of the hammer smartly with the hand and the piston will pass into the cylinder bore leaving the compressor resting on the top of the cylinder block. 8 Turn the crankshaft so that the crankpin is at the bottom of its 'throw' and draw the connecting rod down to engage with it. Take great care not to scratch the bore with the threads of the big-end bolts. 9 Install the big-end cap complete with bearing shell making sure that the rod and cap numbers are adjacent (photo). 10 Screw on the nuts and tighten to specified torque (photo). 11 Repeat the operations on the remaining three piston/connecting rod assemblies.

'A

34.4A Connecting rod big-end bearing

34.4B Big-end cap and shell bearing

34.6 Installing a piston/connecting rod assembly

34.9 Installing a big-end cap

34.10 Tightening a big-end cap nut

35.1 Installing idler shaft

35.3A Installing idler shaft lock plate

35.3B Tightening idler shaft lockplate socket screw with Allen key

36.1 Installing a valve to its guide

36.2A Assembling valve components

36.2B Installing valve collets

36.4 Flywheel timing marks

Chapter 1/Engine

35 Idler shaft - Installation 1 Oil the bearing surfaces of the idler shaft and insert it carefully into the crankcase (photo). 2 Fit the sprocket to the idler shaft, tighten its retaining bolt to the specified torque and lock it using a new locking plate. 3 Fit the locking plate which retains the shaft and the two socket screws (photos). 4 If the sprocket on the crankshaft was removed, now is the time to refit it, making sure that it aligns with the Woodruff key and driving it into the crankshaft with a tubular drift.

36 Cylinder head - reassembly and installation 1 Insert each valve in turn into its respective guide having first oiled the stem (photo). 2 To the valve stem, assemble the spring seat, the spring (closer coils to cylinder head) and retainer, compress the spring and engage the split collets in the cut-out in the valve stem. A dab of thick grease will help to hold the collets in position while the compressor is released slowly (photos). 3 When all the valves have been installed, tap the ends of each valve stem using a plastic faced mallet. This will settle the components and

ensure precise valve clearances when setting is carried out (see Section 39). 4 Turn the crankshaft so that the 'O' (TDC) mark on the flywheel is in alignment with the mark on the crankcase (photo). 5 Turn the idler shaft so that on the two smaller capacity engines, the line on the idler sprocket is horizontal or with the 1985 cc engine, the bulge in one of the apertures in the idler sprocket is opposite and adjacent to the small hole in the shaft locking plate. 6 Clean the mating face of the cylinder block and place a new gasket on it. Do not use any jointing compound (photo). 7 Clean the face of the cylinder head and lower it carefully into position. On engines which are fitted with all bolts and no studs, the use of two guide pins will ensure exact location of the head. These pins can be made from two spare cylinder head bolts, the heads having been cut off and slots cut in their ends to facilitate removal before the cylinder head retaining bolts are screwed in. If the cylinder head is being installed complete with crankshaft, the tappets will have been fitted and shims selected (see Section 39) and the camshaft bolted down and turned so that the mark on the crankshaft front flange edge is opposite the mark on the front bearing cap. Failure to observe this may cause certain valve heads to project into the piston crowns when the cylinder head is bolted down (photo). 8 If the cylinder head is being installed with the engine still in the car or if the engine is out of the car and the timing cover has not been removed, then the chain will still be attached to the camshaft sprocket

Fig. 1.42 Idler sprocket alignment (1985 cc engine) (Sec. 36) Fig. 1.41 Idler sprocket mark (1709 cc 1854 cc engines) (Sec. 31)

36.6 Cylinder head gasket in position

37

36.7 Installing cylinder head

38

Chapter 1/Engine

which in turn will b)e bolted temporarily to the mounting plate (see Section 10). If the cylinder head is being installed to the engine which has been taken out of the car and from which the timing cover has been removed then the timing sprocket and chain will be refjtted later and the chain tensioner reset as described in Section 38. 9 On the two smaller capacity engines, tighten the nuts and the bolts in the sequence shown in Fig. 1.43 in two stages to the following torque wrench setting: 1st stage (nuts) 22 lb/ft 30 Nm 1st stage (bolts) 5 Ib/ft 7 Nm 2nd stage (nuts) 54 Ib/ft 75 Nm 2nd stage (bolts) 54 Ib/ft 75 Nm 10 On the 1985 cc engine where bolts only are used to retain the cylinder head, tighten them in two stages in the sequence shown in Fig. 1.44 to the following torque wrench settings: 1st stage 43 Ib/ft 59 Nm 2nd stage 70 Ib/ft 97 Nm

37 Camshaft - refitting (engine in car) 1

The cylinder head will have been installed as described in the

preceding Section, paragraph 8. 2 If the cylinder head was installed without the camshaft, fit the tappets and selected shims (see Section 39) now and then lower the camshaft onto its bearings but before installing the bearing caps make sure that: i) The mark on the camshaft front flange is in alignment with the mark on the bearing cap. a) The mark on the idler shaft sprocket is positioned as described in Section 36, paragraph 5. Hi) The 'O' (TDC) mark on the flywheel is opposite the alignment mark on the crankcase (photos). 3 Once the camshaft bearings have been bolted down, any slight rotation of the camshaft can be carried out by applying a spanner to the flats on the camshaft (photo). 4 The camshaft sprocket (complete with chain under tension) can now be fitted to the camshaft flange and the securing bolts inserted and fully tightened. On no account release the nut which has been holding the sprocket temporarily to the mounting plate until the sprocket bolts are tightened or the chain tensioner will be released and cannot be reset without removing the engine and timing cover. 5 Remove the temporary nut from the stud taking great care not to drop it into the timing chain case. Bend up the sprocket bolt lockplate.

Fig. 1.43 Cylinder head nut and bolt tightening sequence (1709 cc 1854 cc) (Sec. 36)

37.2A End view of valve spring and retainer

wi /

37.3 Turning camshaft

38.3 Idler sprocket alignment marks

1119 lai Ilf 1^ '

37.2C Camshaft flange and bearing cap alignment marks

Fig. 1.45 Installing fixed chain guide (Sec. 38)

Chapter 1/Engine 6 Reconnect all the components which were disconnected and described in the beginning of Section 10.

38 Camshaft and timing gear - refitting (engine out of car) 1 The cylinder head will have been installed as described in Section 36. 2 If the cylinder head has been installed without the camshaft, fit the tappets and the selected shims (see Section 39) and then lower the camshaft onto its bearings but before installing the bearing caps make sure that the following conditions apply: i) The mark on the camshaft front flange is in alignment with the mark on the adjacent bearing cap. a) The 'O' (TDCj mark on the edge of the flywheel is opposite the alignment mark on the crankcase. These marks are visible through an aperture in the flywheel cover.

On 1709 cc and 1854 cc engines 3 Make sure that the line on the front face of the idler sprocket is horizontal (engine in normally installed in car attitude) (photo). 4 Fit the fixed timing chain guide but only install the upper bolt so that when the timing cover is fitted, the long bolt which secures the centre of the cover can be pushed through into engagement with the lower hole of the guide.

5 Fit the adjustable timing chain guide, inserting the bolts only fingertight and making sure that the short screw goes into the hole nearest the idler shaft. 6 Assemble the camshaft sprocket to the mounting plate using the temporary stud and nut (or screw) and then engage the sprocket within the loop of the timing chain (photo). 7 Pass the mounting plate and lower end of the chain through the aperture in the front end of the cylinder head and then turn the camshaft sprocket so that it takes up a position ready for fitting to the flange of the camshaft having the dowel and bolt holes in perfect alignment. 8 Slip the chain over the crankshaft and idler shaft sprocket. It is emphasised that the fitting of the timing chain and camshaft sprocket must be carried out without moving the crankshaft, idler shaft or camshaft from their set positions. 9 Guide the centre stud of the camshaft sprocket into the hole in the camshaft flange, fit a new locking plate and screw in one bolt finger tight (photo). 10 Insert the mounting plate bolts and tighten. 11 Turn the crankshaft one complete turn in the normal direction of rotation by applying a lever between two flywheel bolts. Insert the remaining camshaft sprocket bolt; tighten the bolts and bend up the locking plates on both bolts (photo). 12 On engines up to number 2954, refit the chain tensioner having

Fig. 1.46 Installing adjustable chain guide (Sec. 38) 38.6 Installing timing chain and camshaft sprocket

38.9 Camshaft bolt, locking plate and temporary nut Fig. 1.47 Engaging timing chain with crankshaft sprocket (Sec .38)

39

Chapter 1/Engine

40

Fig. 1.48 Adjusting timing chain tensioner (early type 1709 cc and 1854 cc) (Sec. 38)

38.11 Locking camshaft sprocket bolt

38.17A Installing chain tensioner rear plate

38.17B Installing chain tensioner

A

Fig. 1.49 Depressing ratchet sleeve in chain tensioner slipper (1985 cc) (Sec. 38)

O'

mmtftm.fmm

Fig. 1.50 Timing chain tensioner, slipper and internal components (1985 cc) (Sec. 38) A B

38.18 Checking projection of chain tensioner slipper

Earlier type Later type

first relieved its tension on the slipper by turning the clamping sleeve clockwise with an Allen key. The sleeve is accessible after removal of the screw. 13 With the bolts slack on the adjustable chain guide, depress the guide with the fingers until the chain is taut over the tensioner slipper and then retighten the adjustable chain guide bolts. 14 Using the Allen key, turn the clamping sleeve clockwise until a distinct click is heard and then withdraw the Allen key and fit and lock the screw plug.

Fig. 1.51 Timing chain tensioner with spacer plate (1985 cc engine) (Sec. 38)

15 Turn the crankshaft one complete turn in the normal direction of travel and check the chain tension. The exposed length of the neck of the slipper must be at least 0.5 mm (0.02 in) but not more than 1.5 mm (0.06 in). 16 On engines with numbers above 2955, the tension in the chain tensioner is relieved by turning the clamping sleeve clockwise. An Allen key may be used for this operation if preferred. Insert a feeler blade 0.12 in (3.0 mm) thick between the underside of the slipper and the tensioner body and fuUy depress the slipper into the body. Leave the

41

Chapter 1/Engine feeler blade in position. 17 Bolt the tensioner and its small rear plate to the engine, remove the feeler and then press the adjustable chain guide against the chain until a clearance exists between the underside of the tensioner slipper and its housing of 0.02 in (0.5 mm). Tighten the adjustable chain guide bolts (photos). 18 Turn the crankshaft one full turn in its normal direction of rotation which will have the effect of releasing the chain tensioner slippmr and applying the correct tension to the chain. The exposed mesh of the tensioner slipper should be between 0.02 in (0.5 mm) and 0.06 in (1.5 mm) (photo).

On 1985 cc engines 19 Make sure that the bulge in one of the apertures in the idler sprocket is in alignment with the small hole in the shaft keeper plate (Fig.1.42). 20 Carry out the operations described in paragraph 4 to 11 of this Section. 21 To fit the chain tensioner, first withdraw the slipper from the body and then using an Allen key depress and turn clockwise the ratchet sleeve until it locks in its fully depressed position. On very late models an Allen key is not required, simply depress and turn the slipper in the tensioner body. 22 Insert the slipper into the tensioner body but use a spacer about 2.0 mm thick placed between the slipper and the body to prevent the slipper bottoming. 23 Bolt the tensioner and its small plate to the engine and then depress the adjustable chain guide until the slipper is held against the spacer. Keep the tension applied to the adjustable chain guide while the spacer is extracted and then adjust the guide until the exposed portion of the slipper neck is 0.02 in (0.5 mm). Tighten the adjustable chain guide bolts fully.

On all engines 24 Remove the temporary nut from the camshaft sprocket centre stud. Bend the mounting plate to clear the stud. 25 Install the oil slinger (convex side inwards) to the crankshaft and then fit the timing cover and alternator support, where the latter is

38.25A Crankshaft oil slinger correctly fitted

mounted low down on the side of the engine (photos). 26 Install the crankshaft pulley and bolt (photo).

39 Valve clearances - checking and adjusting 1 The valve clearances are set by the inclusion of hardened shims within the hollow tappets. The shims are of differing thicknesses and are available in a range to suit all adjustment requirements (photo). 2 Adjustment of the valve clearances is not a frequent maintenance requirement but will always be needed if the valves have been reconditioned by replacing or grinding into their seats and at 25000 miles (40000 km) intervals, the clearances should be checked. 3 Valve clearances should be checked with the engine cold (see Specifications for recommended values). If the cylinder head is being rebuilt, the setting-up clearances should be used. However, when undergoing routine checking, no adjustment need be made provided the clearances fall within the service tolerance range. Numbering from the timing cover end of the engine inlet valves are 2,3,6 and 7 and exhaust valves 1,4, 5 and 8. 4 If the engine and cylinder head are in the car, remove the camshaft cover and the spark plugs then the crankshaft should be turned until number one cam lobe has its high point away from the tappet. Check the gap between the heel of the cam and the face of the tappet using feeler blades. Record the thickness of the feeler blades which give a stiff sliding fit against the valve number (photo). 5 Now turn the crankshaft until number two cam lobe takes up a similar position (high point away from tappet). If the engine is in the car and it is equipped with a manual gearbox, the crankshaft can be turned by engaging 4th gear (freewheel locked) and pushing the car. If automatic transmission is fitted or as an alternative method for manual ^arbox cars (after 1970) turn the crankshaft by applying a spanner to the crankshaft pulley bolt, if the cylinder head has been removed, then the camshaft can be turned by applying a spanner to the flats on the shaft. (Fig. 1.52). With any method effort will be reduced if the

38.25B Timing cover. Note alternator bracket and centre bolt for fixed chain guide

39.1 Hollow tappet and shim

38.26 Crankshaft pulley and bolt

39.4 Checking a valve clearance

42

Chapter 1/Engine

41 Engine ancillaries - refitting 1 Reverse the sequence of removal given in Section 8 and refer to the Chapter listed for detailed instructions.

42 Engine to transmission - reconnection

Fig. 1.52 Turning the camshaft (cylinder head removed) (Sec. 39)

valve clearances are checked in relation to the engine firing order, 1 - 3 - 4 - 2, No 1 being at the rear (timing cover end) of the engine. 6 Having checked and recorded all the eight valve clearances, compare the actual clearances with those specified. Any differences will have to be added or subtracted from the individual shim thickness and a new shim installed. 7 Remove the camshaft and extract the tappets end their shims. A micrometer will now be required to check the thickness of the shims for calculation of the substitute shims as described in the preceding paragraph. In practice, it is often found that some of the original shims can be interchanged with others or your dealer may loan a selection of various thickness shims to you to avoid any delay in reassembly. 8 Install the selected shims, the tappets and the camshaft. Turn the crankshaft through two or three complete turns and then recheck the clearances. Refit the camshaft cover.

40 Oil pump, pick-up tube and filter - installation 1 With vane type oil pumps used on 1709 cc and 1854 cc engines, offer the pump to the cylinder block making sure that a new 'O' ring seal is used (photo). 2 Insert the four piimp securing bolts and tighten them evenly to the specified torque. 3 On 1985 cc engine and smaller capacity engines which have bi-rotor type pumps, install a new 'O' ring between the pump and the intermediate plate, push the pump inwards and insert the four securing bolts and tighten to the specified torque. 4 Locate a new gasket and bolt the oil pick-up tube to its crankcase mounting (photo). 5 Install the oil filter as described in Section 18.

40.1 Installing oil pump and driveshaft

1 This is a reversal of the separation procedure described in Section 6 or 7 according to type of transmission with which the vehicle is equipped. 2 Always use new flange gaskets and tighten all bolts and nuts to their specified torque wrench settings. 3 Check that the oil pick-up tube is bolted securely to the underside of the crankcase. 4 On vehicles equipped with a manual gearbox, install the clutch release lever. 5 With the engine suspended on the hoist, lower it carefully onto the gearbox but just before it touches install the clutch shaft bearing/seal and retainer and bolt it in position noting that there is only one position it can be placed in order to align the bolt holes. 6 Insert the engine/gearbox flange bolts and drive home the locating dowels. Note that the coarse threaded bolts go downwards and the fine ones upwards. 7 Carefully drive home the clutch shaft using a soft-faced mallet (photo). 8 Screw the nylon bolt and 'O' ring into the end of the clutch shaft, install the cover and fit the large circlip. 9 Install the starter motor (photo). 10 Fit the engine front mounting bracket (photo). 11 Fit the right-hand engine mounting and alternator bracket (photo). 12 Install the alternator and drivebelt and then tension the drivebelt. Depending upon the vehicle, model and operating territory, there may be a single drivebelt to the side of top mounted alternator, a second drivebelt to the optionally specified power steering pump and a third for the air pump used in some emission control systems which are fitted to North American models. In all arrangements, adjustment is carried out by moving the driven unit on its mountings within the limits of its adjustment link until the mid-pojnt of the largest run of the drivebelt can be depressed by % in (12.7 mm) (photo). 13 Install the exhaust manifold using new gaskets (photo). 14 Install the oil pressure switch cover using a new 'O' ring seal, (photo). 15 Install the oil pump driveshaft and bolt on the oil pump (photo). 16 Screw in the dipstick guide tube (photo). 17 Bolt on the clutch cover and left-hand mounting bracket (photo). 18 Install on a new oil filter according to type (see Section 18) (photo). 19 The engine/transmission is now ready for installing in the vehicle, as described in the next Section.

43 Engine/transmission - installation 1 Reverse the removal procedure described in Sections 4 or 5 but observe the following points. 2 Pack the inner joints of the driveshafts with grease. On 1968 - 69

40.4 Location of oil pump pick-up tube and filter

42.7 Qriving home clutch shaft

42.9 Installing starter motor

42.10 Engine front mounting bracket

42.11 Engine right-hand mounting bracket.

42.12 Alternator installed and drivebelt tensioned

42.13 Installing exhaust manifold

42.14 Installing oil pressure switch cover

42.15 Installing oil pump driveshaft

42.16 Engine oil dipstick guide tube

42.17 Engine left-hand mounting bracket

42.18 Separate element type oil filter

43.2A Engine front mounting connected

43.2B Engine right-hand mounting connected

44

Chapter 1/Engine

models, lower the power unit to within 2 in (50.0 mm) of its mountings and connect the universal joints (right-hand first) while the 'T' pieces are parallel with the ground. On 1970 and later models, lower the engine to within lin (25.4 mm) of its mountings and connect the left-hand driveshaft joint. Lower the engine fully onto its mountings, and connect the right-hand joint. Reconnect the end of the track control arm (photos). 3 Refit the clutch slave cylinder and then adjust the clutch, as described in Chapter 5 (photo). 4 Fill the cooling system with antifreeze mixture (Chapter 2). 5 Fill the engine (and transmission if drained) with the correct quantity and grade of oil. 6 If air-conditioning is fitted, reconnect the compressor and the condenser and have the system recharged by a refrigeration engineer or your SAAB dealer.

44 Engine - start-up after major overhaul 1 'A/ith the engine installed in the car, make a final visual check to see that everything has been reconnected and that no loose rags or tools have been left within the engine compartment. 2 Turn the idling speed adjusting screw in about Vs a turn to ensure that the engine will have a faster than usual idling speed during initial start up and operation. 3 Pull the choke control fully out and start the engine. This may take a little longer than usual as the fuel pump and carburettor bowls will be empty and will require priming. 4 As soon as the engine starts, push the choke control in until the engine will run at a fast tick-over. Examine all hose and pipe connections for leaks. 5 After the engine has reached its normal operating temperature, check the carburettor adjustment (Chapter 3) and the ignition timing (Chapter 4).

43.3 Connecting clutch slave cylinder

6 Where the majority of engine internal bearings or components (pistons, rings etc) have been renewed then the operating speed should be restricted for the first 500 miles (800 km) and the engine oil changed at the end of this period. 7 After 1200 miles (1930 km) check the torque wrench setting of the cylinder head nuts and bolts with the engine cold. Release each nut or bolt about a quarter of a turn before tightening it in the sequence previously indicated earlier in this Chapter.

45 Fault diagnosis - engine Symptom

Reason/s

Engine will not turn over when starter switch is operated

Flat battery. Bad battery connections. Bad connections at solenoid switch and/or starter motor. Defective solenoid. Starter motor defective.

Engine turns over normally but fails to start

No spark at plugs. No fuel reaching engine Too much fuel reaching the engine (flooding).

Engine starts but runs unevenly and misfires

Ignition and/or fuel system faults. Incorrect valve clearances. Burnt out valves. Worn out piston rings.

Lack of power

Ignition and/or fuel system faults. Incorrect valve clearances. Burnt out valves. Worn out piston rings.

Excessive oil consumption

Oil leaks from crankshaft oil seal, timing cover gasket and oil seal, camshaft cover gasket, oil filter gasket, sump plug washer. Worn piston rings or cylinder bores resulting in oil being burnt by engine. Worn valve guides.

Excessive mechanical noise from engine

Wrong valve clearances. Worn crankshaft bearings. Worn cylinders (piston slap). Slack or worn timing chain and sprockets.

Note: When investigating starting and uneven running faults do not be tempted into snap diagnosis. Start from the beginning of the check procedure and follow it through. It will take less time in the long run. Poor performance from an engine in terms of power and economy is not normally diagnosed quickly. In any event the ignition, fuel and emission control systems must be checked first before assuming any further investigation needs to be made.

Chapter 2 Cooling system Refer to Chapter 13 for information and specifications related to later models Contents

Antifreeze mixture Cooling system - draining Cooling system - filling ... Cooling system - flushing Electric fan (up to and including 1970 models) - removal and refitting ... Fault diagnosis - cooling system General description Radiator complete with fan (up to 1975) - removal and installation

5 2 4 3

Radiator complete with fan (1975 on) - removal and installation Radiator fan thermostatic switch Radiator - inspection and repair Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting ... Water pump (early type) - removal and refitting Water pump (later type) - removal and refitting Water pump - overhaul ... Water temperature transmitter and gauge

6 16 1

8 15 9 10 11

12 13 14

7

Specifications

System type

..

•••

•••

•••

..

Pressurised, radiator, electric cooling fan and water pump driven from idler shaft.

1709 cc, 1854 cc

1985 cc (up to 1975)

1985 cc (from 1975)

Capacity (including heater).

15 pints (8.5 litre) 9 US quarts

16% pints (9.5 litres) 10 US quarts

14 pints (8 litres) 8% US quarts

Thermostat opens

179to188°F (82 to 86.5°C)

185°F (85°C)

190°F (88°C)

8.5 Ib/in2 (0.60 kg/cm2)

14.2 Ib/in2 (1.0 kg/cm2)

Ib/ft

Nm

18 11 18 22

25 15 25 30

.

Radiator pressure cap opening range.

Up to 1970 8.5 Ib/in2 (0.55 to 0.60 kg/cm2) 1970 onwards 7.5 to 10.3 Ib/in2 (0.55 to 0.75 kg/cm2)

Torque wrench settings

Water pump impeller (early type) Water pump impeller (later type) Thermostat housing bolts Water pump cover bolts

.

1 General description The cooling system is of pressurised type with a crossflow radiator and expansion tank. The water pump is located in the cylinder block and it is driven from a gear on the engine idler shaft. The thermostat is contained in a housing bolted to the front end of the cylinder head. The radiator cooling fan is electrically driven and controlled by a thermostatic switch. The inlet manifold and interior beater are connected to the engine cooling system. The design of some components differs between the different models and dates of production and any variation in overhaul procedures is described in the following Sections of this Chapter.

2 Cooling system - draining 1

Unscrew and remove the pressure cap from the expansion tank. It is

not recommended that the system is drained and refilled when hot but if it is essential to do so, release the cap slowly to allow steam to escape before withdrawing the cap completely. 2 Set the heater control to maximum heat. 3 Unscrew the radiator and engine cylinder block drain taps. If it is wished to retain the coolant for further use, catch it in suitable containers.

3 Cooling system - flushing 1 Provided the coolant is changed at the specified intervals, the system should not require flushing but if due to neglect or oil contamination due to a broken gasket it does require cleaning, then a hose should be placed in the expansion tank (early models have the tank located above the radiator, on later models it is located at the rear of the engine compartment) and cold water allowed to flow through the system until it runs clear from the drain taps. 2 In severe cases of contamination, remove the radiator and invert it

Chapter 2/Cooling system

46

8

9 15

10 11

3

Fig. 2.1 Typical cooling system layout 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Radiator Fan Expansion tank Thermostat Water temperature transmitter Bypass hose Water pump Heater booster fan motor Heater fan Heater matrix Heater water valve Radiator fan thermostatic switch 13 Radiator drain tap 14 Cylinder block drain tap 15 Heater air bleed nipple

Fig. 2.2 Radiator drain tap (Sec. 2)

Fig. 2.3 Cylinder block drain tap (Sec. 2)

Fig. 2.4 Expansion tank (up to 1970) (Sec. 6)

and reverse flush it. 3 If a proprietary cleanser is to be used, follow carefully the manufacturer's recommendations.

4 Cooling system ■ filling 1 Unscrew the cap on the expansion tank. 2 Open the heater core bleed nipple and set the heater control to maximum heat. Close the radiator and cylinder taps. 3 Fill the system with fresh coolant poured in through the expansion tank filler neck. 4 Start the engine and let it run at a moderate speed until coolant is ejected (free from air bubbles) from the heater bleed nipple. 5 Tighten the bleed nipple, switch off the engine and top up the expansion tank to the level mark.

2 With 'long-life' type antifreeze mixtures, renewal need only be carried out every two years. The heater matrix and radiator are particularly prone to freeze if antifreeze is not used in air temperatures below freezing. Modern antifreeze solutions of good quality will also prevent corrosion and rusting and they may be left in the system to advantage all year round. 3 Before adding antifreeze to the system, check all hose connections and check the tightness of the cylinder head bolts as such solutions are searching. The cooling system should be drained and partially filled with clean water as previously explained, before adding antifreeze. 4 The quantity of antifreeze which should be used for various levels of protection is given in the table below, expressed as a percentage of the system capacity. Antifreeze volume 25% 30% 35%,

Protection to -26°C (-15°F) -33°C {-28°F) -39° C (-38° F)

Safe pump circulation -12°C( 10°R) -16°C( 3°F) -20°C (- 4°F)

5 Antifreeze mixture 1 Standard type antifreeze mixture should be renewed every year, preferably in theautumn.

5 Where the cooling system contains an antifreeze solution any topping-up should be done with a solution made up in similar proportions to the original in order to avoid dilution.

Chapter 2/Cooling system

6 Electric fan (up to and including 1970 models) - removal and refitting 1 Remove the battery. 2 Unbolt the expansion tank and move it to one side. 3 Disconnect the leads from the fan motor. 4 Unbolt the fan assembly and withdraw it. 5 Remove the fan securing nut and pull the fan from the motor shaft. 6 Remove the two fan motor securing bolts and separate the motor from the housing. 7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Operation of the fan can be checked after installation by earthing the lead to the thermostatic switch (battery connected and ignition on).

7 Radiator complete with fan (up to 1975) - removal and installation 1 Drain the coolant. 2 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the radiator (on cars built up to 1970, move the expansion tank to one side) (photos). 3 Disconnect the leads from the electric fan and the thermostat switch. 4 On cars built up to 1972, unbolt and remove the radiator grille assembly complete with radiator, fan and headlamps. On later cars, remove the headlamps before withdrawing the grille. 5 The radiator and fan assembly can be unbolted from the grille panel. 6 Reassembly and installation are reversals of removal and dismantling.

7.2A Radiator hose from thermostat housing

8 Radiator complete with fan (1975 on) - removal and installation 1 Remove the battery. 2 Drain the coolant. 3 Disconnect the headlamp lens wiper pushrod from the wiper motor crank in front of the radiator. 4 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the radiator. 5 Disconnect the leads from the fan, the headlamp lens, wiper motor, the ignition coil and thermal switch. 6 Unscrew the radiator securing screws and lift the radiator from the engine compartment. The fan motor and the wiper motor can be released from the radiator if required, by removing the attachment bolts. 7 Installation is a reversal of removal.

9 Radiator - inspection and repair 1 Inspect the radiator for leaks, if evident it is recommended that the repair is left to a specialist or the radiator is exchanged for a reconditioned one. 2 Whenever the radiator is removed, take the opportunity of brushing all flies and accumulated dirt from the radiator fins or applying air from a tyre air compressor in the reverse direction to normal airflow. 3 The radiator pressure cap should be tested by a service station and if it leaks or its spring has weakened, it must be renewed with one of specified pressure rating.

7.2B Radiator hose to expansion tank

10 Thermostat - removal, testing and refitting 1 The thermostat is located in a housing at the forward end of the cylinder head. The design of the housing differs according to model as shown in Figs. 2.6 and 2.7. 2 Access to the thermostat is obtained by partially draining the cooling system and unbolting the thermostat housing cover. 3 If the thermostat is stuck in its seat, do not prise it upwards by passing a lever under its bridge piece but cut round the seat with a sharp pointed knife. 4 To test whether the unit is serviceable, suspend the thermostat on a piece of string in a pan of water being heated. Using a thermometer, with reference to the opening and closing temperature in Specifications, its operation may be checked. The thermostat should be renewed if it is stuck open or closed or it fails to operate at the specified temperature. The operation of the thermostat is not instantaneous and sufficient time must be allowed for movement during testing. Never replace a

Fig. 2.5 Removing radiator/fan assembly (1975 on) (Sec. 8)

47

V.

Fig. 2.6 Thermostat (up to 1970) (Sec. 10)

11.7A Water pump (early type) bypass hose

11.76 Water pump cover (early type)

11./U Water pump impeller (early type) showing setscrew

Fig. 2.10 Removing early type water pump (Sec. 11)

V.

Fig. 2.8 Water pump impeller and shaft (early type) (Sec. 11)

Chapter 2/Cooling system

49

faulty unit - leave it out if no replacement is available immediately. 5 Replacement of the thermostat is a reversal of the removal procedure. Ensure the mating faces of the housing are clean. Use a new gasket with jointing compound. The word 'Top' which appears on the thermostat face must be visible from above.

11 Water pump (early type) - removal and refitting 1 The earlier type of water pump can be identified by the setscrew which retains the impeller to the pump shaft. 2 Drain the cooling system. 3 Disconnect the lead from the battery negative terminal. 4 Remove the inlet manifold. 5 Remove the alternator and the bolt which secures the alternator mounting bracket to the water pump cover. 6 Disconnect both engine rear mountings and using a jack and wooden block as an insulator, raise the rear end of the power unit until the upper screw which retains the alternator bracket to the transmission cover can be removed. Release the lower screw and twist the bracket as far from the engine as possible. 7 Remove the other two bracket screws from the water pump cover and withdraw the cover (photos). 8 Hold the neck of the water pump impeller quite still and unscrew the setscrew, noting that this has a left-hand thread. 9 A slide-hammer should now be attached to the end of the water pump driveshaft and the shaft withdrawn upwards. If the bearing housing is left behind in the cylinder block it can be removed by fitting a nut and large washer to the end of the slide hammer and withdrawing the bearing housing upwards. 10 To refit the water pump, mount it (impeller removed), on top of the flange on the cylinder block and push it carefully into engagement vwth the gear teeth on the idler shaft. Drive it fully home using a tubular drift. 11 Install the impeller, washer and setscrew and tighten to the specified torque (left-hand thread). Hold the impeller quite still during this operation. 12 Fit the pump cover using a new gasket. On certain 1709cc and 1854 cc engines which have the type of water pump cover shown in Fig. 2.12, a clearance must exist between the face of the setscrew and the underside of the cover of between 0.01 and 0.02 in. (0.25 and 0.50 mm) when the cover is bolted down. Gaskets must be selected and installed between cover and block to obtain this clearance which can be established in the following way. Place an 0.02 in. (0.5 mm) thick shim on top of the impeller setscrew and hold the cover in position by hand pressure. Using feeler blades, check the gap between the cover and the engine block. Install one or more gaskets as necessary to equal the thickness of the gap just measured. The gaskets are available in different thicknesses. 13 Reverse the operations descrilaed in paragrapns 1 to 6 of this Section.

Fig. 2.11 Removing bearing housing (early type water pump) (Sec. 11)

Fig. 2.12 Checking water pump cover clearance (1709 cc 1854 cc engines only) (Sec. 11)

12 Water pump (later type) - removal and refitting 1 The later type of water pump is identified by the nut (instead of the setscrew on earlier types) which retains the impeller. 2 Carry out the operations described in paragraphs 2 to 7 in the preceding Section. 3 Hold the water pump impeller quite still and unscrew the securing nut (left-hand thread). 4 The water pump should now be drawn out of the engine block. A special tool is available to do this but if a bolt can be obtained which has the same thread as the impeller nut, the nut can be used to attach the bolt to the pump shaft and then using suitable distance pieces, a second nut can be screwed onto the temporary bolt and the pressure created will withdraw the pump assembly. On no account attempt to use the slide hammer method employed for the removal of earlier type pumps. 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal but apply pressure using a bolt and a bridge screwed to the cover bolt holes. On no account drive the assembly into the engine block using hammer blows (Fig. 2.14).

Fig. 2.13 Water pump impeller and shaft (later type) (Sec. 12)

50

Chapter 2/Cooling system first remove it from the cylinder block. 2 Support the underside of the impeller and drive the shaft from it. 3 Support the pump so that the driven gear is uppermost and press the pump shaft from the bearing housing. Extract the pump seal, the 'O' ring, the thrower (early pumps only) and the sealing ring. 4 Extract the ball bearing circlip and then support the bearing (driven gear downwards) and press the shaft from the bearing. 5 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling using all the components supplied in the repair kit.

14 Water temperature transmitter and gauge 1

The water temperature transmitter is screwed into the thermostat

housing. 2 Failure or incorrect readings on the temperature gauge should first be checked by examining the connecting leads for security and condition. 3 Testing of the transmitter or gauge can only be satisfactorily carried out by substitution of new components. 4 The transmitter can be removed after partially draining the cooling system. 5 The temperature gauge can be removed as described in Chapter 10.

15 Radiator fan thermostatic switch Fig. 2.14 Installing later type water pump (Sec. 12) 13 Water pump - overhaul 1 In view of the normally long op>erating life of the water pump, it is possible that the purchase of a new or reconditioned unit may be as economical as servicing the original pump, particularly if the necessary pressing facilities are not available. Where the pump is to be dismantled.

1 The switch is installed in the outlet pipe of the radiator. 2 It is a good idea to check the operation of the fan periodically by switching on the ignition and disconnecting the lead from the thermo¬ static switch and earthing the end of the lead. The fan should start. 3 If consistently high running temperatures indicate that the thermoswitch is defective (the fan motor having been proved serviceable) first check the wiring and if this is in order, renew the switch by unscrewing it, having first drained the cooling system.

r

Fig. 2.15 Exploded view of early type water pump (Sec. 13) 1

2 3 4 5 6 7

Cover Gasket Impeller Sea! Thrower Sealing ring Circlip

8 9 10 11 12 13

Bearing OH thrower ring Bearing housing 'O' rings Sealing ring Shaft

Fig. 2.16 Exploded view of later type water pump (Sec. 13)

1 2

Cover Gasket Impeller Seal Sealing ring Circlip

7 Bearing 8 Bearing housing 9 'O' ring 10 Sealing ring 11 Shaft

Chapter 2/Cooling system

Fig. 2.17 Radiator fan thermostatic switch (Sec. 15)

16 Fault diagnosis - cooling system Symptom

Reason/s

Heat generated in cylinder not being successfully disposed of by radiator

Insufficient water in cooling system. Electric fan or thermostat switch faulty. Radiator core blocked or radiator grille restricted. Water hose collapsed, impeding flow. Thermostat not opening properly. Ignition advance and retard incorrectly set (accompanied by loss of power and perhaps misfiring). Carburettor incorrectly adjusted (mixture too weak). Exhaust system partially blocked. Oil level in sump too low. Blown cylinder head gasket (water/steam being forced down the radiator overflow pipe under pressure). Engine not yet run-in. Brakes binding.

1

Cool running

Thermostat jammed open. Incorrect grade of thermostat fitted allowing premature opening of valve. Thermostat missing.

Leaks in system

Loose clips on water hoses. Water hoses perished and leaking. Radiator core leaking. Thermostat gasket leaking. Pressure cap spring worn or seal ineffective. Blown cylinder head gasket (pressure in system forcing water/steam down overflow pipe). Cylinder wall or head cracked.

51

Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems Refer to Chapter 13 for information and specifications related to later models Contents

Accelerator linkage ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Air cleaner (carburettor models) - servicing. . Air cleaner (fuel injection) - servicing ... ... ... Carburettor (175 DC - 2S) - slow-running adjustment . Carburettor (175 CD - 2SE) -1709 cc and 1854 cc engine - slowrunning adjustment ... ... ... . ... ... Carburettor (175 CD 0 2S) - 1985 cc engine - slow-running adjustment ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Carburettor (175 CD - 2S) - overhaul ... ... ... ... ... Carburettor (175 CD - 2SE) 1709 cc and 1854 cc engines overhaul ... ... ... ... . ... ... ... Carburettor (175 CD - 2SE) 1985 cc engine - overhaul ... ... Carburettor overflow valve - adjustment ... ... . Carburettor - removal and installation ... ... ... ... Deceleration valve - testing and adjustment ... ... ... ... EGR systems - maintenance ... ... ... ... . Exhaust emission control systems - description ... ... ... Fast idle setting - all carburettors ... ... ... Fault diagnosis - carburettor type fuel system ... ... ... Fault diagnosis - exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system ... ... Fault diagnosis - fuel injection system ... . ...

28 2 3 9 10 11 15 16 17 12 14 31 32 30 13 34 36 35

Fuel evaporative emission control system - maintenance ... ... Fuel injection system (up to 1974) - adjustments ... ... ... Fuel injection system (up to 1974) - maintenance ... ... ... Fuel injection system (up to 1974) - location, removal and installation of main components ... ... ... ... ... Fuel injection system (up to 1974) - operating principles. Fuel injection system (1975 on) - adjustments ... ... ... Fuel injection system (1975 on) - maintenance ... ... ... Fuel injection system (1975 on) - operation principles . Fuel injection system (1975 on) - location, removal and installation of main components ... ... ... ... ... Fuel injection system (1975 on) - testing components ... ... Fuel level transmitter and gauge ... ... ... ... ... Fuel pump (mechanical) - description and servicing ... ... Fuel pump (mechanical early type) - overhaul ... ... ... Fuel pump (mechanical) - removal and installation ... ... ... Fuel tank - description, removal and installation ... ... ... General description ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Manifolds and exhaust system ... ... ... ... ... Manifold air injection system - maintenance ... ... ... ...

Specifications

Fuel system with carburettor System type

.

Rear mounted fuel tank, mechanically operated fuel pump, single carburettor.

Fuel tank capacity To chassis 99024297 From chassis 99024298 From 1975

10% gals (4.8 litres, 12.75 US gals) 10 Imp gals (45 litres, 11.8 US gals) 12 Imp. gals (55 litres, 14 US gals)

Fuel pump Type . Pressure at starter speed: Early ... Late ...

A.C. 1.4 to 2.4 Ib/sq in (0.10 to 0.17 kg/sq cm) 2.15 to 2.9 Ib/sq in (0.15 to 0.20 kg/sq cm)

Carburettor application

1709CC. 1854 cc. 1985 cc ...

1969 to 1974

1969 to 1974 N. America

175CD-2S 175CD -2S 175 CD - 2S

175CD-2SE 175CD-2SE

Carburettor - Zenith - Stromberg type 175 CD - 2S Diameter ... Needle: 1709 cc and 1854 cc 1985 cc Fuel inlet valve: To 1971 . After 1971 . Fast idle cam to bolt clearance Idling speed

1.75 in (44.45 mm) B1W (swing) B1BR 1.75 mm 2 mm 0.02 to 0.04 in (0.5 to 1 mm) 800 to 900 rev/min

1975 on

175CD-2SE

29 20 19 21 18 24 23 22 26 25 8 4 6 5 7 1 27 33

53

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems Carburettor - Zenith - Stromberg type 175 CD - 2SE (fitted to 1709 cc and 1854 cc engines) Diameter Needle (swing) Fuel inlet valve: To 1971 After 1971 Fast idle cam to bolt clearance Idling speed C.O. (max. contact) at idling

1.75 in (44.45 mm) B1AG 1.75 mm 2 mm 0.02 to 0.08 in (0.5 to 2.0 mm) 800 to 900 rev/m in 2.5 to 3.5 %

Carburettor - Zenith - Stromberg type 175 CD - 2SE (fitted to 1985 cc engines) Diameter ... Needle (swing) ... Fuel inlet valve ... Fast idle cam to bolt clearance Idling speed . C.O. (max. content) at idling ... Temperature compensator at 68°F (20°C) opening

. . ... ... ... ... ... ... . ... ... ...

1.75 in (44.45 mm) BIDS 2 mm 0.02 to 0.04 in (0.5 to 1.0 mm) 825 to 875 rev/m in 3.5 % 0.004 to 0.012 in (0.1 to 0.3 mm)

Fuel injection system (up to 1975) Type . Injection valve voltage ... Stroke Opening time (at normal road speeds) Cold start valve voltage ... Spraying angle Fuel pump consumption Capacity: 1709/1854 cc . 1985 cc Idling speed

Bosch electronic 3v 0.006 in (0.15 mm) 2.5 to 9.0 milliseconds 12v

100° 2.5 amp. at 14v 14.3 Imp. gals (65 litres) per hr. 11.0 Imp. gals (50 litres) per hr. 800 to 850 rev/min

Fuel injection system (1975 on) Type . Fuel pump capacity (return pipe discharge in 30 secs) Fuel pump operating voltage ... Control pressure (warm engine) Line pressure Injection valve opening pressure Idling speed ... ... ... ... . C.O. (max content)

Bosch Cl (continuous injection) I. 31 Imp. pints (750 ml) II. 5v (minimum). 49.8 to 55.5 Ib/sq in (3.5 to 3.9 kg/sq cm) 68.3 to 71.1 Ib/sq in (4.8 to 5.0 kg/sq cm) 37 to 51 Ib/sq in (2.6 to 3.6 kg/sq cm) 850 to 900 rev/min 3.5 % (N. America 1.5 to 2 %)

Torque wrench settings Carburettor type engine

Ib/ft

Nm

Carburettor mounting nuts Exhaust manifold bolts: 1709 cc and 1854 cc 1985 cc ... ... Inlet manifold bolts: 1709 cc and 1854 cc 1985 cc

15

21

28 18

39 25

18 14

25 19

18 18 25

25 25 35

4 4 4 3 11

6 6 6

...

.

Fuel injection type engine Throttle valve housing Inlet manifold Exhaust manifold

... .

Fuel injection (1975 on) - additional torque wrench settings Airflow sensor stop bracket screws Airflow sensor counter-weight retaining screw Airflow sensor plate screw Fuel distributor screws ... Line pressure screw plug

1

General description

The fuel system may be of carburettor or fuel injection type depending upon model and date of production. With carburettor models, a rear mounted fuel tank is used in conjunction with a mechanically-operated fuel pump (which runs off a cam on the engine idler shaft) to supply a single Zenith-Stromberg

4 15

carburettor. The calibration of the carburettor may vary slightly according to the model and destined operating territory. Due to the efficiency of the engine design, emission control equipment is minimal and only on the latest cars supplied to North America with fuel injection is it necessary to have a proportional EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) and Al (air injection) device installed. Where a fuel injection system is used, this is of Bosch type. An electric fuel pump supplies fuel to a mixture control unit. The latter

54

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

comprises an airflow sensor which measures the flow of air to the engine and by mechanical means controls the fuel distributor. The fuel distributor meters the correct amount of fuel to the injection valves which in turn eject fuel into the inlet manifold.

2 Air cleaner (carburettor models) - servicing 1 The air cleaner is bolted to the carburettor inlet flange. On earlier models the intake spout of the cleaner body can be moved to 'Winter' or 'Summer' positions according to the ambient temperature. On later models a two-way valve is incorporated in the intake spout and this connects with a pipe from the area of the exhaust manifold. The valve should be set either to 'Winter' or 'Summer' position (photo). 2 At the intervals specified in 'Routine Maintenance' renew the paper type element. Access to the element is obtained by removing the air cleaner cover (centre nut or spring retaining clips) and lifting out the element and wiping the interior of the casing clean. 3 In very dusty operating conditions, renew the element more frequently than specified. As an interim measure, the element can be tapped on a hard surface to remove adhering dust but on no account attempt to clean it by any other means. 2.1 Removing early type air cleaner 3 Air cleaner (fuel injection) - servicing 1 On earlier models, the air cleaner is similar to that fitted to carburettor engines except that it does not have a movable spout or two position intake air valve. 2 On later models, renew the air cleaner element by removing the flexible bellows which are located between the airflow sensor and the throttle valve housing. 3 Disconnect the return pipe from the fuel distributor. 4 Remove the bolts which retain the lower part of the airflow sensor to the air cleaner. 5 Raise the mixture control unit enough to be able to extract the air cleaner element. 6 Clean out the casing, install the new element and reconnect the dismantled components.

4 Fuel pump (mechanical) - description and servicing

Fig. 3.1 Later type air cleaner (carburettor models) (Sec. 2)

1 The fuel pump is actuated by a rocker arm which is in contact with an eccentric cam on the engine idler shaft. The pump can be tested by disconnecting the outlet pipe and turning the engine over on the starter (coil lead disconnected) when a good spurt of fuel should be ejected. 2 The pump on earlier models could be fully dismantled and repaired but the unit on later models is a sealed unit (apart from being able to clean the filter screen) and in the event of a fault developing, it must be renewed complete. 3 At the intervals specified in 'Routine Maintenance' unscrew the cover screw and remove the cover. 4 Carefully lift out the filter screen and wash it in fuel. On earlier pumps, clean out the pump body, on later pumps clean out the pump cover. 5 Refit the screen and cover making sure that the sealing gasket is in good condition.

5 Fuel pump (mechanical) - removal and installation 1 Disconnect the fuel pipes from the pump and plug them. 2 Unscrew and remove the two pump flange securing bolts and withdraw the pump from the engine block (photo). 3 Installation is a reversal of removal but make sure that the underside of the pump rocker arm is in contact with the operating cam and use a new flange gasket.

6 Fuel pump (mechanical - early type) - overhaul 1 Remove the pump as previously described. 2 Remove the cover, filter screen and gasket. 3 Scribe a mark across the edges of the pump flanges so that the two halves of the pump can be refitted in their original relative positions.

Fig. 3.2 Late type air cleaner (fuel injection) (Sec. 3) 4 Extract the flange screws and separate the pump halves. 5 Hold the lower half of the pump in the hand and depress the centre of the diaphragm and twist it one quarter of a turn clockwise to disengage the diaphragm rod from the pump lever. Withdraw the diaphragm and rod and the spring. 6 No further dismantling is possible. The diaphragm assembly is supplied as a repair kit item and it must be renewed if it is split or distorted. 7 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling.

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

55

Fig. 3.3 Disposable type fuel pump (Sec. 4) 1

Cover

2

Filter screen

3

Gasket 1

1 The fuel tank is mounted at the rear of the car and incorporates a fuel level transmitter. 2 As from chassis no. 99024298, the design of the fuel tank was modified to allow internal expansion of the fuel. The expansion chamber is opened by a valve which is actuated by the installation of the fuel tank filler cap (Fig. 3.5). 3 Models built for the North American market are equipped with a fuel evaporative control system which incorporates a charcoal canister. The canister absorbs fuel vapour from the tank, the vapour being removed from the charcoal when the engine is running and burned in the engine combustion chambers (see Section 29). (Fig. 3.6) 4 To remove the tank, jack-up the rear end of the car and remove the drain plug and catch the fuel in a suitable container which can be sealed afterwards. 5 Remove the carpet from the floor of the luggage boot (or the floor panel on Combi versions). 6 Remove the fuel level transmitter cover plate. 7 Disconnect the lead from the battery negative terminal and then disconnect the leads from the tank transmitter unit. 8 Disconnect the filler hose and vent pipes from the fuel tank. 9 On cars with carburettors, disconnect the fuel supply pipe from the tank. 10 On cars with fuel injection, disconnect the pressure and return fuel lines from the fuel accumulator and the tank (late models) or the flow and return and pressure regulator hoses from the tank (early models). 11 Unscrew and remove the fuel tank securing strap nuts and lower and remove the tank. (Fig. 3.7) 12 The tank transmitter and the fuel pump (late fuel injection models) can be removed from the tank if necessary. When these components are refitted, make sure that their sealing rings are renewed. 13 Never attempt to repair a fuel tank by welding or soldering. This is a job best left to professionals as extended purging of the tank is necessary to make it safe before it can be worked upon. 14 Installation is a reversal of removal.

1 2 3

4

8

Fig. 3.4 Exploded view of early type fuel pump (Sec. 6) 1 2 3 4 5

Cover Gasket Filter screen Upper body Diaphragm

Fuel tank - description, removal and installation

6 7 8 9

Spring Lower body Rocker arm Primary lever

Fuel level transmitter and gauge

1 Incorrect indication of the fuel level in the tank may be due to a fault in either the gauge or the transmitter. 2 The home mechanic can only effectively test these components by substituting new units. Before removing the original components, checjc the security of the connecting wiring and the earth leads and terminals. 3 The transmitter is of float and resistance type and is accessible for removal after withdrawing the small cover plate under the luggage compartment carpet or panel.

56

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

Without tank cap

Fig. 3.5 Fuel tank (later type) (Sec. 7)

With tank cap on

1 Tank 2 Filler 3 and 4 vent tubes 5 Spring-loaded valve 6 Vent hose 7 Filler cap

Fig. 3.6 Layout of fuel evaporative control system (North America) (Sec. 7)

1 2 3 4 5

Fuel pump Air cleaner Carburettor Fuel tank Fuel lever transmitter 6 Drain plug 7 Vapour extraction hose 8 Charcoal canister

9 Carburettor (175 CD - 2S) - slow-running adjustment 1 As a basic setting, remove the air cleaner and hold the carburettor vacuum piston down with the finger. Now screw the jet adjusting screw upwards until the jet just touches the piston. Unscrew the jet adjusting screw 2% turns. 2 Start the engine and run it to normal operating temperature. 3 Turn the throttle speed screw until the engine is running at between 700 and 800 rev/min. Check that there is a clearance between the fastide screw and the fast-ide cam. 4 Turn the jet adjusting screw up until the mixture is weakened and the idling becomes rough. Now unscrew the jet adjusting screw (counting the number of turns) until the engine again starts to idle roughly as a result of a rich mixture. Turn the screw up to the mid-position between the weak and rich settings. 5 Readjust the throttle stop screw if necessary to achieve the specified idling speed (see Specifications). 6 An alternative method of adjusting the slow-running is to use a device such as a 'Colortune' in accordance with the maker's instructions.

10 Carburettor (175 CD - 2SE) - 1709 cc and 1854 cc engines - slowrunning adjustment Fig. 3.7 Removing fuel tank retaining strap (Sec. 7)

1

This type of carburettor is precisely set and adjusted during

57

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

manufacture and has no external jet adjustment. It differs from the type 175 CD - 2S by having a temperature compensator to maintain a constant fuel-air mixture irrespective of the under-bonnet temperature. An overflow valve is also fitted to sustain combustion during decelera¬ tion and engine over-run. There is also an air screw for fine tuning and two vacuum pipe connections, one for the normal distributor vacuum advance and the other to retard the ignition when the throttle is closed during deceleration. 2 To adjust the slow-running, have the engine at normal operating temperature. It should have been warmed up from cold and the adjustment procedure carried out within a period of eight minutes from the moment when the cooling system thermostat opens. This can be judged by holding the coolant hose on the discharge side of the thermostat housing. 3 Make sure that the air cleaner is set to the 'Summer' position. 4 Make sure that there is oil in the carburettor damper. 5 Start the engine and set the throttle speed screw to give an idling speed of between 800 and 850 rev/min. 6 Turn the air screw in or out to give the smoothest idle. 7 It is recommended that a CO meter is now used to check that the CO emission is within the specified tolerance. Slight corrections may be made if necessary by readjusting the air screw. 8 Failure to obtain the correct CO emission readings may be due to a faulty temperature compensator.

11 Carburettor (175 CD - 2S) - 1985 cc engine - slow-running adjustment Fig. 3.8 Zenith - Stromberg 175 CD - 2S carburettor 1 2 3 4 5

Jet adjuster Float chamber Vacuum chammber cover Fuel inlet Distributor vacuum pipe nozzle

6 7 8 9 10

Oil damper cap Body Fast idle cam Fast idle screw Throttle speed screw

1 The carburettor fitted to the 1985 cc engine is similar to the one used on the two smaller engines on cars destined for the North American market (see Section 10) except that a temperature compensator is not fitted. 2 If the carburettor has been dismantled, first check that the plastic washer on the metering needle is flush with the underside of the vacuum piston. If adjustment is needed, release the grub screw and move the

Fig. 3.9 Zenith - Stromberg 175 CD - 2SE carburettor fitted to 1709 cc and 1854 cc engines 1 2 3 4

Carburettor body Distributor vacuum pipe nozzle Air screw Overflow valve body screws

5 6 7 8 9

Overflow valve adjusting screw Float chamber plug Float chamber Temperature compensator Securing screws

10 11 12 13 14

Fast-idle screw Throttle speed screw Vacuum chamber cover OH damper cap Float chamber vent hole

15 Air channel to lower side of diaphragm 16 Air channel to temperature compensator 17 Choke assembly 18 Fast-idle cam 19 Choke cable connection

58

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems needle up, or down, as necessary. 3 With the vacuum chamber cover removed together with spring, piston and diaphragm, measure the distance between the jet bridge and the jet. This should be between 0.081 and 0.097 in. (2.3 and 2.7 mm). Adjust if necessary by turning the jet adjusting screw. 4 Reassemble the vacuum piston, diaphragm and cover, start the engine and run it to normal operating temperature. 5 Adjust the throttle speed screw to give the specified idl ing speed as listed in 'Specifications'. 6 Using either a CO meter or a device such as a 'Colortune' check the CO value or mixture strength. If the jet adjusting screw requires more than % turn in either direction, the metering needle needs repositioning in the vacuum piston.

12 Carburettor overflow valwe - adjustment

Fig. 3.10 Measuring distance from jet bridge to jet (Sec. 11)

Fig. 3.11 Sectional view of carburettor overflow valve (Sec. 12) 1 2 3 4 5

Blanking cap Adjusting screw Seal Cover Nut

6 7 8 9 10

Spring Channel Diaphragm Valve Throttle valve plate

1 An overflow valve is fitted to the 1 75 CD - 2SE carburettor fitted to 1709 cc and 1854 cc engines and to the 175 CD - 2S and 1 75 CD - 2SE fitted to the 1985 cc engine. 2 If the engine tends to idle too fast and all other settings are correct, the cause may be due to the overflow valve. 3 On the smaller engine carburettor, remove the flexible bellows from the throttle spindle driver disc. 4 Prise out the blanking cap from the end of the overflow valve adjusting screw and turn the adjusting screw anti-clockwise to its stop. If a hole has not been drilled in the driver disc to permit insertion of a screwdriver to adjust the valve, the driver disc should be removed and one drilled. 5 Adjust the carburettor throttle speed screw to give an idling speed as specified for your particular model. Switch off the engine. 6 Now turn the overflow valve adjusting screw six complete turns clockwise. Start the engine and increase the idling speed to 3000 rev/ min by rotating the driver disc. If the engine speed returns immediately to normal idling then the valve is operating correctly. If this is not the case, give the screw one turn anticlockwise and repeat the test. 7 If the engine still does not respond as specified, remove the valve, clean it and refit it using a new gasket. Any wear or damage will mean the renewal of the complete valve assembly. 8 On the larger engine carburettor, run the engine to normal operating temperature with the air cleaner intake in its correct seasonal position. 9 Turn the overflow valve adjustment screw afew turns anticlockwise to ensure that the valve is closed. 10 Check that the idling speed and mixture strength (CO level) are correct as previously described. 11 Turn the overflow valve adjustment screw clockwise until the engine speed which will rise, levels off. This should be between 1500 and 1800 rev/mi n. 12 Now turn the overflow valve anticlockwise until the valve just closes and the engine resumes its normal idling speed. When this point is reached, turn the screw a further 'A to % of a turn anticlockwise. 13 Test the engine return to idling by increasing its speed to about 3000 rev/min and then releasing the accelerator. If this does not happen, turn the valve adjustment screw a further 'A to 1 turn anticlockwise. 14 Failure of the engine to respond to the pattern just described will necessitate removing and cleaning or renewing the valve.

13 Fast idle setting - all carburettors 1 Check that the choke control is pushed fully in. 2 Ensure that the throttle linkage is completely released (throttle valve plate closed). 3 Release the locknut on the fast idle screw and adjust the screw to provide a gap between its head and the edge of the fast idle cam as specified according to model and carburettor type in the 'Specifications' Section.

14 Carburettor - removal and installation Fig. 3.12 Overflow valve (1709 cc 1854 cc engines) (Sec. 12) 1

Adjustlng^screw

2

Valve securing screws

1 Remove the air cleaner and on later models, the pre-heater hose (photo). 2 Disconnect the fuel pipe and distributor vacuum pipe from the carburettor. 3

Disconnect the choke cable and the throttle linkage from the

59

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

Fig. 3.13 Overflow valve {1985 cc engine) (Sec. 12)

14.1 Air cleaner hose attachment to exhaust manifold shroud

14.3A Choke cable connection at carburettor

14.3B Throttle control arrangement (early non-emission control)

carburettor (photos). 4 Unscrew the four retaining nuts and remove the carburettor from the inlet manifold (photo). 5 Installation is a reversal of removal but always use a new flange gasket.

14.4 Removing the carburettor

15 Carburettor (175 CD - 2S) - overhaul 1 Remove the carburettor as described in the preceding Section and clean off any external dirt.

60

/ 2 3 4 5 6 7

Damper cap Vacuum chamber cover Spring Washer Plastic ring Flexible diaphragm Vacuum piston

8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Metering needle 'O’ring Jet adjusting screw Jet retainer 'O'ring Float chamber Float

15 16 17 18 19 20 21

Fuel inlet valve Body Carrier Choke valve plate Spindle Choke housing cover Fast idle cam

22 23 24 25 26 27

Washer Bush 'O' ring Guide bush Jet Throttle closure damper

•. 10 . 14

I 4i,‘

10 Washer 11 Bush 12 'O' ring 13 Guide bush 14 Spring 15 Jet 16 Jet retainer 17 and 18 'O' rings 19 Adjusting screw

18 19 _ Fig. 3.16 Carburettor diaphragm alignment to vacuum piston

V

_

Fig. 3.17 Correct installation of metering needle to carburettor piston

Fig. 3.18 Carburettor jet assembly components

61

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems 2 Unscrew the vacuum chamber cover (four screws) and extract the spring. 3 Carefully lift out the vacuum piston/diaphragm assembly. 4 Release the grub screw and extract the metering needle from the base of the piston. 5 Remove the four retaining screws and separate the diaphragm and metal and plastic retainers from the vacuum piston. 6 Remove the float chamber (six screws). 7 Prise out the float pivot pin from its clips and withdraw the float. 8 Unscrew the jet retainer/screw assembly. 9 Unscrew and remove the fuel inlet needle valve and washer. 10 Unscrew and remove the choke mechanism (two screws). 11 Wash all parts in clean fuel or paraffin and examine for wear. Renew any components as necessary. 12 Obtain a repair kit which will contain all the necessary gaskets and other renewable items. 13 Commence reassembly by fitting the diaphragm to the vacuum piston so that its locating 'pip' engages in the cut-out in the rim of the piston. 14 Fit the metering needle into the vacuum piston so that the plastic VA/asher on the needle is flush with the base of the piston. Make sure that the securing grub screw is tightened against the flat on the side of the needle housing. 1 5 Install the vacuum piston assembly into the carburettor body making sure that the 'pip' on the outer edge of the flexible diaphragm engages in the cut-out in the body.

Fig. 3.19 Checking carburettor float setting (Sec. 15)

Fig. 3.20 Exploded view of Zenith-Stromberg 175 CD - 2SE carburettor (1709 cc and 1854 cc engines) (Sec. 16) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Damper cap Vacuum chamber cover Spring Washer Plastic ring Flexible diaphragm Vacuum piston

8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Metering needle Float chamber plug 'O' ring Float chamber Float Fuel inlet valve Body

15 16 17 18 19 20

Throttle spindle driver disc Choke valve plate Choke spindle Choke housing cover Fast idle cam Temperature compensator

21 Temperature compensator valve 22 Bimetal spring 23 Cover 24 Overflow valve 25 Airscrew

62

Fig. 3.21 Exploded view of Zenith-Stromberg 175 CD - 2SE carburettor (1985 cc engine) (Sec. 17) 1 2 3 4 5 6

Damper cap Vacuum chamber cover Spring Plastic ring Flexible diaphragm Vacuum piston

7 8 9 W 11 12

Metering needle 'O' ring Jet retainer Jet adjusting screw 'O' ring Float chamber

13 14 15 16 17 18

Float Fuel inlet valve Body Carrier Choke assembly Washer

19 20 21 22 23 24

Bush ‘O' ring Bush Spring Jet Overflow valve

63

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems 16 Install the vacuum chamber cover, making sure not to twist the diaphragm by turning the cover. 17 Assemble and screw in the jet assembly, using the new 'O' rings supplied in the repair kit. 18 Screw in the fuel inlet needle valve and washer, install the float and then check the float setting. To do this, invert the carburettor so that the floats rest on the fuel inlet valve under their own weight. Now measure the distance between the highest point of the float and the flange of the carburettor housing. This should be between 0.63 and 0.71 in. (16.0 and 1 8.0 mm). Adjustment can be made by bending the tongue which contacts the fuel inlet needle valve. (Fig. 3.19) 19 Install the float cf'amber, using a new gasket ab'd refit the choke assembly. 20 Set the fast idle, as described in Section 13. 21 Set the jet to its basic position and then adjust the slow-running, as described in Section 9, after the unit has been refitted to the car.

3 Adjust the fast idle (Section 13) and after the carburettor has been refitted to the engine, adjust the slow-running (Section 10) and the overflow valve (Section 12).

17 Carburettor (175 CD - 2SE) 1985 cc engines - overhaul 1 This carburettor which is fitted to the larger engined cars is overhauled in a similar manner to the procedure described in Section 15, but the following differences must be noted. 2 An overflow valve is fitted. 3 The highest point of the float above the carburettor body flange is to be set between 0.630 to 0.669 in. (16.0 to 17.0 mm). 4 The distance between the jet bridge and the jet to be set between 0.081 and 0.097 in. (2.3 and 2.7 mm). 5 The gap between the fast idle screw and the edge of the fast idle cam to be set between 0.020 and 0.039 in. (0.5 and 1.0 mm). 6 When the carburettor has been refitted to the engine, adjust the slow-running (Section 11) and the overflow valve (Section 12).

16 Carburettor (175 CD - 2SE) 1709 cc and 1854 cc engines - overhaul 1 The procedure is similar to that described in the preceding Section but removal of the additional temperature compensator and overflow valve must be noted. (Fig. 3.20) 2 The highest point of the float should be 0.67 in. (17 mm) above the carburettor body flange.

18 Fuel injection system (up to 1974) - operating principles 1 Fuel is drawn from the rear mounted fuel tank by an electric pump and having passed through a filter is forced into the fuel pressure line.

-

**

..*

...

Fig. 3.22 Fuel injection system (up to and including 1974) (Sec. 18) Fuel tank Fuel pump Filter Pressure regulator Pressure sensor

Vs

6 7 8 9 10

Inlet duct Cylinder head Injection valves Fuel distribution pipes Ignition distributor

11 Start valve 12 Throttle valve switch 13 Idling speed adjustment screw 14 Temperature sensor (air)

15 16 17 18 19

Temperature sensor (coolant) Auxiliary air regulator Temperature switch From starter terminal Control unit

64

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

Fuel pressure is regulated by a pressure regulator, excess fuel returning to the tank through a return line. 2 The engine cylinders are supplied with air by four induction pipes v^ich are in turn connected to a common inlet duct. The pressure sensor and the distributor vacuum advance are connected to this duct. When the engine is running, the entry of air into the duct is controlled by a throttle valve controlled by the accelerator pedal. When idling, air enters the duct through a bypass port. 3 Injection of fuel is controlled on a time basis which is computed by the special contacts within the ignition distributor. Variation in the period of fuel injection is arranged according to engine load and speed by the action of a control unit. 4 Provision is made for additional metered injections of fuel at cold starting and on 1985 cc engines a richer mixture is injected at full throttle conditions.

engine performance or idling quality deteriorate and are not the result of other engine components (ignition, valves etc.) needing adjustment or overhaul.

Throttle valve adjustment 2 To remove any slackness from the throttle control cable on cars built up to and including 1971 models, first remove the air cleaner assembly and then adjust the locknuts on the outer cable. On no account alter the position of the support bracket. 3 On later cars, remove any cable slackness by moving the bracket, having first released the bracket securing nuts. 4 The stop screw must then be adjusted so that the throttle valve plate is open 0.002 in. (0.05 mm). This can be checked using a feeler gauge.

Throttle valve switch adjustment 19 Fuel injection system (up to 1974) - maintenance 1 Regularly inspect the security of all electrical leads and connecting hoses. 2 Every 12000 miles (19(X)0 km), renew the fuel filter. To do this, remove the panel to the left of the spare wheel within the luggage boot. 3 Release the three securing screws and pull the flap forward. 4 Qamp the fuel lines on each side of the filter and disconnect the filter by removing the hose clips. 5 Install the new filter making sure that the directional arrow on it points towards the fuel pump.

5 The throttle valve switch should open when the throttle valve plate has opened 1° from its closed position. 6 The switch has graduations of 2° marked on index plates but any adjustment is best carried out using a buzzer or ohmmeter. Connect it between terminals '14' and '17' of the switch on 1709 cc or 1854 cc engines or between '47' and '17' on 1985cc engines. Release the throttle valve switch screws and with the throttle valve plate in its normal released (closed) position, move the switch until the buzzer sounds or the ohmmeter registers. Now open the throttle valve through 1°. As this is very difficult to establish check the opening of the throttle valve with a feeler blade. The gap should be about 0.004 in. (0.10 mm) instead of the fully released gap of half this amount (see paragraph 4). Move the switch until the buzzer just stops or the ohmmeter ceases to register. Retighten the switch screws.

20 Fuel injection system (up to 1974) - adjustments

Idling speed adjustment 1 These are not to be regarded as routine but are only required if the

7

A bypass control screw is provided on the venturi housing to adjust

r

Fig. 3.23 Fuel filter and pump (fuel injection systems up to 1974) (Sec. 19)

Fig. 3.24 Throttle valve cable adjuster (fuel injection up to 1974) (Sec. 20)

Fig. 3.25 Adjusting throttle stop screw (fuel injection up to 1974) (Sec. 20) Fig. 3.26 Throttle valve switch (fuel injection up to 1974) (Sec. 20) j

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems the engine idling speed. Before carrying out any adjustment, have the engine at normal operating temperature. Release the locknut and turn the screw in or out to provide an idling speed of between 800 and 850 rev/min (manual gearbox or automatic transmission in 'N' or 'P').

65

and if a new unit is installed it is recommended that it should be adjusted by your dealer. 4 The temperature sensor for inlet air is located just to the rear of the crankcase ventilation valve.

Mixture adjustment 8 First check that the throttle valve is correctly adjusted (see paragraph 2) and that the engine is at normal operating temperature. Use a CO meter and turn the knob on the control unit to give a maximum CO reading of 3.5% when the engine is at specified idling speed (800 to 850 rev/min).

21 Fuel injection system (up to 1974) - location, removal and installation of main components 1 Although the testing of most components will require the use of special equipment, where a part is obviously faulty or it has been diagnosed as unserviceable after reference to the chart in Section 30 or it has been tested and found so by your dealer, then it can be renewed by observing tfie following operations. 2 The pressure sensor is located on the left-hand wheel arch within the engine compartment. Extreme care must be taken when removing and connecting the hose from and to the sensor that no dirt enters the components. 3 The pressure regulator is located just to the rear of the alternator. When removing it, plug the fuel lines immediately to prevent loss of fuel. Correct setting of the pressure regulator is essential to fuel economy

Fig. 3.28 Mixture adjustment screw (fuel injection up to 1974) (Sec. 20)

Fig 3 30 Location of pressure regulator (fuel injection up to 1974) (Sec. 21)

Fig. 3.27 Idling speed adjustment screw (fuel injection up to 1974) (Sec. 20)

Fig. 3.29 Location of pressure sensor (fuel injection up to 1974) (Sec. 21)

Fig. 3.31 Location of temperature sensor (air) - fuel injection up to 1974 (Sec. 21)

66

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems 5 The temperature sensor for coolant is located in the thermostat housing adjacent to the auxiliary air regulator and the water temperature switch. Always use new sealing washers when refitting these components. 6 The start valve is located on the inlet manifold between the fuel injectors. To remove an injector, first withdraw the fuel pipe from all the injectors and the start valve. Pull the electrical plug from the injector and unscrew the fuel line clip adjacent to the auxiliary air regulator. Unbolt and remove the injector taking great care not to allow dirt to enter the manifold. 7 When refitting an injector, push the large rubber ring onto it and the smaller ring onto the injector body. Install the injector into its holder and align the assembly so that the electrical connector is towards the engine. Tighten the injector securing screws evenly.

22 Fuel injection system (1975 on) - operating principles

Fig. 3.32 Location of temperature sensor (coolant), water temperature switch and auxiliary air regulator - fuel injection up to 1974 (Sec. 21) 1

Temperature switch

2

Temperature sensor

3

Auxiliary air regulator

1 Fuel is drawn from the rear mounted fuel tank by an electric pump Which is mounted within the fuel tank. The pump incorporates a pressure relief valve and a non-return valve in its outlet to prevent pressure drop when the pump is switched off. 2 A fuel accumulator is mounted in the fuel line from the pump, its purpose being (i) to maintain system pressure and prevent fuel vaporising and so ensure an easy start when the engine is warm, (ii) to absorb pressure fluctuations during normal operation, (iii) to delay system pressure rise at cold starting to prevent too much fuel being injected into the engine cylinders. 3 A fuel line filter is fitted in the line. 4 Fuel is distributed to the engine cylinders by means of a distributor unit. This unit meters fuel through injector valves and is controlled by a pressure regulator valve which in turn is actuated by a lever attached to the airflow sensor plate. 5 The airflow sensor device comprises an air venturi tube in which an air flow sensor plate moves. The plate is connected through a lever to the fuel distributor and automatically controls the quantity of fuel injected according to the engine speed and load. 6 The remaining components of the system are refinements and include a warm-up regulator, a cold start valve, a line pressure regulator and an auxiliary air valve to compensate for losses due to condensation in the inlet manifold and combustion chambers at cold starting.

23 Fuel injection system (1975 on) - maintenance

Fig. 3.33 Location of start valve (1) and fuel injectors (2) - fuel injection system up to 1974 (Sec. 21)

1 Periodically check the security of all leads and connecting hoses within the system. 2 Every 1 2000 miles (19000 km), renew the fuel filter in a similar manner to that described in Section 19, taking great care not to allow dirt to enter the system.

24 Fuel injection system (1975 on) - adjustments 1 These adjustments are not to be regarded as routine but are only required if engine performance or idling quality deteriorate and are not the result of other engine components (ignition, valves etc.) needing adjustment or overhaul.

Throttle valve adjustment 2

This is similar to the method described in Section 20, paragraph 2.

Idling speed adjustment 3 This is similar to the method described in Section 20, paragraph 7. The correct idling speed is between 850 and 900 rev/min.

Mixture adjustment

Fig. 3.34 Fuel filter (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 23)

4 With the engine at normal operating temperature and the idling speed correctly set, remove the rubber plug from between the fuel distributor and the flexible bellows. 5 Insert an Allen key and connect a CO meter to the engine exhaust. Adjust the CO value by turning the Allen key clockwise (richer) or anticlockwise (weaker) until the maximum reading is 3.5%.

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

25 Fuel injection system {1975 on) - testing components 1 The following components can be tested without the use of special equipment. Renewal is described in the next Section.

Fuel pump 2 Remove the cover plate within the luggage boot or compartment and using a voltmeter measure the voltage between the positive and negative terminals of the fuel pump when it is operating. The voltage should not be below 11.5V otherwise it must be renewed. 3 Fuel pump discharge can be checked by disconnecting the return fuel line and having first disconnected the safety circuit connection at the airflow sensor, switch on the ignition and catch the fuel discharged from the return line during a period of 30 seconds. This should be approximately 750 ml (1.31 Imp. pints).

Auxiliary air valve 4 Make sure that the engine is cold and that the safety circuit connec¬ tion at the airflow sensor is disconnected. 5 Using a torch and mirror, check that there is an opening (oval in shape) within the valve. Switch on the ignition and observe that the opening closes after a period of about five minutes.

Warm-up regulator 6 Disconnect the lead from the warm-up regulator and bridge the contacts in the lead plug with a voltmeter. 7 Disconnect the safety circuit at the airflow sensor and switch on the ignition. If the voltage recorded is below 11.5, renew the regulator.

Fuel injection valves 8

Remove the flexible bellows from the airflow sensor.

9 Unscrew the injection valves from the inlet manifold (leaving the fuel lines connected) and place them in a clean container. 10 Disconnect the safety circuit connector at the airflow sensor and switch on the ignition. The fuel pump will start to operate. 11 Raise the lever in the airflow sensor and observe the fuel spray from the injection nozzles. If the spray is restricted or poorly defined, the valves should b)e removed for cleaning by your dealer or renewed. 12 Switch off the ignition and wipe the ends of the injection valve nozzles dry. Lift the airflow sensor lever and check the nozzles for leakage of fuel. If a drop of fuel forms in under fifteen seconds, then the injection valves must be cleaned or renewed.

Cold start valve 13 Disconnect the lead from the cold start valve and unscrew it from the throttle valve housing. Do not disconnect the fuel line. 14 (Connect two leads between the cold start valve terminals and a main beam terminal of one of the headlamps and earth. 15 Disconnect the safety circuit connector at the airflow sensor and switch on the ignition. The fuel pump will operate. Place the cold start valve in a container and have an assistant switch the headlamps to main beam for a period not exceeding thirty seconds. During this time, fuel should spray out of the cold start valve. 16 With the headlamps switched off but the ignition still switched on (fuel pumpoperating) dry the cold start valve nozzle and check that no fuel leaks from the valve. If it does, renew the valve.

Thermo-time switch 17 When the engine temperature is below 95°F (35°C) current flows while the starter motor is actuated. To check that the switch closes when the starter is actuated, connect a test-lamp in series across the contacts of the connector plug of the cold start valve.

\

/-

Fig. 3.35 Adjusting mixture (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 24)

Fig. 3.37 Checking opening of auxiliary air valve (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 25)

67

Fig. 3.36 Disconnecting safety circuit at air flow sensor (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 25)

Fig. 3.38 Testing operation of cold start valve (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 25)

J

68

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

26 Fuel injection system (1975 on) - location, removal and installation of main components 1 Although the testing of some of the following components will require the use of special equipment, where a part is obviously faulty or it has been diagnosed as unserviceable by yourself or your dealer,

then it should be renewed as described in the following paragraphs. 2 The fuel pump is integral with the fuel tank and it can be removed after withdrawing the cover plate in the luggage boot or compartment and disconnecting leads to the fuel line from it. Using a suitable lever unscrew it (bayonet fitting). 3 Release the clips and remove the splash guard and mounting from the pump.

Fig. 3.40 Components of the fuel pump (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26)

Fig. 3.39 Removing the fuel pump (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26)

1 2

Bayonet type holder Adaptor

3 4

Sealed pump unit Splash guard

Fig. 3.41 Fuel pump to tank installation diagram (fuel injection 1975 on) A wide tongue of holder, B front of car, C splash guard indent (Sec. 26)

Fig. 3.44 Removing flexible bellows from throttle valve housing (fuel injection system 1975 on) (Sec. 26)

Fig. 3.43 Location of fuel accumulator (fuel injection system 1975 on) , (Sec. 26)

A

69

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems 4 When reassembling the splash guard to the pump and the pump to the mounting, make sure that the parts take up the attitude shown in the diagram. (Fig. 3.41) 5 Make sure that the height of the splash guard is also as illustrated in the diagram. (Fig. 3.42) 6 Install the pump using a new sealing gasket and reconnect the leads and fuel line to it. 7 The fuel accumulator is located on the side of the fuel tank. Removal is carried out by disconnecting the fuel lines from it and pulling it from its bracket. Make sure that when installing the new accumulator that the fuel lines are correctly connected (fuel pump line nearest the edge of the accumulator). 8 The mixture control unit is mounted cn the air cleaner and comprises a fuel distributor and the airflow sensor. 9 To remove the unit, disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel distributor and disconnect the lines to the injection valves then the control pressure line. 10 Remove the flexible bellows which run between the airflow sensor and the throttle valve housing. 11 Remove the retaining bolts and lift the mixture control unit from the air cleaner. If the fuel distributor is to be separated from the airflow sensor, take care that the control plunger does not fall out. Do not handle the plunger but if this is unavoidable, clean it before installation with fuel. When refitting the fuel distributor (which is a sealed unit and must be renewed complete if faulty), check that the 'O' ring seal is in position and tighten its three retaining bolts no tighter than 3 Ib/ft (4 Nm). 12 The line pressure regulator is screwed into the fuel distributor and should not be dismantled unless absolutely essential. Pressure adjust¬ ment is carried out by varying the thickness of the shims on the end of the spring.

13 The airflow sensor can be dismantled if the complete mixture control unit is first removed from the engine and the fuel distributor detached from it. 14 Remove the lower plastic section from the airflow sensor and extract the two stop bracket mounting screws. Remove the bracket, spring, insulation and connectors. 15 Extract the retaining screws and remove the sensor plate. 16 Extract the circlips from the lever seating and remove the shims, seals, spring and balls. 17 Remove the counter-weight screw and press out the pivot. 18 Withdraw the lever, counter-weight and adjustment arm. 19 Reassemble the stop bracket in the reverse order to dismantling. Tighten the screws only to 4 Ib/ft (6 Nm). 20 Fit the counter-weight to the lever tightening the screw only fingertight. Place the adjustment arm in the lever so that the socket headed screw on the arm is visible.

Fig. 3.45 Removing mixture control unit (fuel injection system 1975 on) (Sec. 26)

Fig. 3.46 Separating fuel distributor from air flow sensor (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26)

mrnm «•

3

^

f

^

4

5

6

Fig. 3.47 Exploded view of the line pressure regulator, removed from fuel distributor (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26) 1 2

'O' ring Piston

3 4

Spring Shims

5 6

Copper washer Plug

Fig. 3.48 Airflow sensor stop bracket (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26) 1 2

Stop bracket Spring

3 4

Wire loop Insulation

5

Contact

Fig. 3.49 Installing adjustment arm in lever of airflow sensor (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26)

Chapter 3/Fuet and exhaust systems

70

21 Apply Silicone grease to both bearings and install the lever/arm assembly in the airflow sensor housing and insert the pivot. 22 Apply grease to the balls and fit them together with the spring, seals, shims and circlips. The spring goes on the side which has the longer bearing seat and the circlips should have their sharp edges facing outwards. 23 Centre the sensor plate in the air venturi and then centre the lever so that the threaded holes in both components are in alignment with each other. 24 Tighten the counter-weight screw to a torque of 4 Ib/ft (6 Nm) and then fit the sensor plate screw and tighten it to a similar torque. Check that the lever can be moved without binding. 25 Adjust the rest position of the sensor plate by bending the wire loop on the stop bracket underneath the airflow sensor.

26 Now set the position of the adjustment arm. To do this, use a depth gauge and measure the distance between the face with which the fuel distributor mates and the needle bearing. This should be between 0.71 and 0.75 in. (18 to 19 mm), if not turn the mixture control screw using an Allen key. 27 With the mixture control unit (comprising the fuel distributor and airflow sensor) installed to the engine, the mixture should be checked as described in Section 24, paragraph 4. 28 Fuel injuction valves must be removed only after cleaning away any surrounding dirt. Dsconnect the fuel line using two spanners to prevent the valve turning. 29 The warm-up regulator is located adjacent to the ignition distributor. Disconnect fuel lines and electrical leads from it and remove it. 30 The auxiliary air valve is located at the base of the ignition

r

Fig. 3.50 Assembling airflow sensor housing (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26) 1 2

Circlip Shim

3 4

Seal Spring

5

Tightening airflow sensor counterweight screw (fuel injection

Ball

Fig. 3.53 Measuring position of airflow sensor adjustment arm (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26) Fig. 3.52 Tightening airflow sensor plate screw (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26)

Fig. 3.54 Disconnecting fuel line from injector (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26)

Fig. 3.55 Removing warm up regulator (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26)

J

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

71

distributor. It can be removed after disconnecting hoses and electrical leads and withdrawing its securing screv«s.

27 Manifolds and exhaust system

Fig. 3.56 Removing auxiliary air valve (fuel injection 1975 on) (Sec. 26)

1 The inlet and exhaust manifolds can be removed and refitted with the engine in the car. The cooling system will have to be drained before the inlet manifold can be removed. Always use new gaskets when refitting and tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque. 2 The exhaust system is of three section type and varies slightly in design according to date of production and model. 3 The centre and rear mountings are of flexible type. 4 Examination of the exhaust pip)e and silencers at regular intervals is worthwhile as small defects may be repairable when, if left they will almost certainly require renewal of one of the sections of the system. Also, any leaks, apart from the noise factor, may cause poisonous exhaust gases to get inside the car which can be unpleasant, to say the least, even in mild concentrations. Prolonged inhalation could cause

Fig. 3.57 Typical exhaust system (1709 cc and 1854 cc models) (Sec. 27)

Fig. 3.58 Typical exhaust system (1985 cc engine) (Sec. 27)

72

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

sickness and giddiness. 5 As the sleeve connections and clamps are usually very difficult to separate it is quicker and easier in the long run to remove the complete system from the car when renewing a section. It can be expensive if another section is damaged when trying to separate a bad section from it. 6 To remove the system first remove the bolts holding the tail pipe bracket to the body. Support the rear silencer on something to prevent cracking or kinking the pipes elsewhere. 7 Disconnect the centre mounting. 8 Disconnect the manifold to downpipe connecting flange and then withdraw the complete exhaust system from below and out to the rear of the vehicle. If necessary, jack up the rear of the vehicle to provide more clearance. 9 When separating the damaged section to be removed cut away the damaged part from the adjoining good section rather than risk damaging the latter. 10 If small repairs are being carried out it is best, if possible, not to try and pull the sections apart. 11 Refitting should be carried out after connecting the two sections together. De-burr and grease the connecting socket and make sure that the clamp is in good condition and slipped over the front pipe but do not tighten it at this stage. 12 Connect the system to the manifold and connect the rear support strap. Now adjust the attitude of the silencer. 13 Tighten the pipe clamps, the manifold clamp nuts and the rear suspension strap bolts. Check that the exhaust system will not knock against any part of the vehicle when deflected slightly in a sideways or upwards direction.

28 Accelerator linkage 1 Operation of the throttle is by means of a pendant type pedal and a cable. The design of the components differs slightly according to date of production and model. 2 The inner cable is attached to the accelerator pedal rod by a locking pin and to the carburettor spindle driver (or throttle valve lever - fuel injection) by a clip. 3 The outer cable is provided with locknuts at its support bracket and it can be adjusted to remove slack from the inner cable.

29 Fuel evaporative emission control system - maintenance 1 Regularly inspect the security of the system hoses. 2 On models built up until 1974, remove the filter screen located at the base of the charcoal canister every 6000 miles (9600 km) and clean it. 3 On later models routine cleaning is not required but the charcoal canister should be renewed every 30000 miles (48000 km).

30 Exhaust emission control systems - description 1 When correctly tuned and adjusted, the engines fitted in SAAB 99 models meet the anti-pollution regulations of most countries with the exception of North America. 2 As from 1975, fuel injection models (1985 cc) destined for operation in that territory are equipped with the following systems: Deceleration Valve (all models) EGR - on/off System (automatic transmission only) EGR Proportional System (California only) Manifold Air Injection System (California only) 3 Reference should also be made to the Crankcase Ventilation System (Chapter 1) and to the Fuel Evaporative Control System (Sections 7 and 29, of this Chapter), both of which must be considered as vital parts of the overall anti-pollution scheme. 4 The Deceleration Valve is located in the throttle plate. During deceleration, the valve opens to admit additional air into the engine. The extra volume of air dilutes the rich mixture which occurs during deceleration and therefore reduces the quantity of noxious fumes emitted from the exhaust system. 5 The EGR on/off System is a system of exhaust gas recirculation

Fig. 3.59 Accelerator linkage (up to and including 1971) (Sec. 28)

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems based upon engine coolant temperature and the vacuum conditions within the throttle valve housing. The arrangement reduces the formation of nitrogen oxides which are produced during the highest temperature period of the combustion cycle by the introduction of a controlled volume of inert (exhaust) gas. 6 The EGR Proportional System is also a system of exhaust gas recirculation but is continuous in operation, the injected volume of inert gas being controlled by monitoring devices which respond to the engine load conditions. 7 The Manifold Air Injection System comprises a belt-driven air pump and non-return valve with the necessary injection tubes and inter¬ connecting hoses. The purpose of the system is to inject a controlled volume of air into the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipes in order to create afterburning which will further reduce the quantity of noxious gases present which result from normal combustion processes.

4 After adjustment, re-test the valve and then tighten the locknut and refit the flexible bellows.

32 EGR Systems - maintenance 1 Every 15000 miles (24000 km), remove the throttle valve housing, the exhaust gas recirculation crosspipe and valve.

31 Deceleration valve - testing and adjustment 1 Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature and using a tachometer, adjust the idling speed to 875 rev/min. 2 Increase the engine speed to 3000 rev/min and then release the throttle. The time taken for the engine to resume its idling speed should be between four and five seconds. 3 If the time taken is incorrect, remove the flexible bellows which are located between the airflow sensor and the throttle valve housing. Release the locknut on the deceleration valve screw and turn the screw the number of turns indicated on the graph. For example if the time taken for the engine to resume idling speed from 3000 rev/min was 3 seconds, then at the point of intersection of the 3 second line and the curve, the number of turns (1 1/3) which the valve screw must be turned clockwise can be read off. (Fig. 3.62)

Fig. 3.62 Adjustment graph for deceleration valve (Sec. 31) PVS valve

Fig. 3.64 EGR proportional system (Sec. 32)

Fig. 3.65 Removing EGR crosspipe (Sec. 32)

73

Fig. 3.66 Removing EGR valve (Sec. 32)

74

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

2 Clean the calibrated hole at the exhaust manifold using a twist drill. For the EGR on/off System the drill diameter should be 0.16 in. (4 mm) and for the EGR Proportional System, 0.39 in. (10 mm). 3 Clean out the crosspipe using a suitable solvent or if heavy deposits are found, use a rotary wire brush followed by compressed air. 4 Clean the inlet and outlet of the EGR valve again using a rotary wire brush followed by solvent and taking care not to damage the valve stem. The hole in the inlet manifold should be cleaned by using a twist drill of 0.39 in. (10 mm) diameter. 5 Refit the components, using a new gasket on the EGR valve and the throttle valve housing. 6 Start the engine and listen for leaks. 7 Reset the EGR counter for the warning lamp by removing the blanking panel from the left-hand side below the instrument panel and withdrawing the cover from the counter, the latter being located at

Fig. 3.67 Cleaning calibrated hole in exhaust manifold (EGR system) (Sec. 32)

Fig. 3.68 Cleaning hole in inlet manifold (EGR system) (Sec. 32)

Fig. 3.69 Removing EGR counter cover (Sec. 32)

Fig. 3.70 Re-setting EGR counter cover (Sec. 32)

Fig. 3.72 Air injection tube installation template (Sec. 33)

Fig. 3.71 Cleaning air pump pulley (Sec. 33)

Fig. 3.73 Correct alignment of air injection tubes on exhaust manifold (Sec. 33)

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems the rear of the speedometer. 8 With the counter cover removed, push the reset button. Refit the cover and the blanking panel.

33 Manifold air injection system - maintenance 1 At regular intervals, remove the air pump drivebelt. 2 Extract the three pulley retaining screws and lift the pulley from the air pump.

75

3 Thoroughly clean the pulley including the recess for the centrifugal type cleaner. 4 Refit the pulley and drivebelt and adjust the belt to a tension which permits 'A in. (12.7 mm) total deflection at the centre of the longest run of the belt. 5 Disconnect the air inlet pipe and inspect the non-return valve. Suck or blow the valve to check its operation and then reconnect the air inlet pipe and check all other hose connections. 6 Should the air injection tubes have to be renewed, a template must be made in accordance with the diagram so that the new tubes can be fitted to the exhaust manifold in their correct attitude. (Fig. 3.72).

34 Fault diagnosis • carburettor type fuel system Symptom

Reason/s

Fuel consumption excessive

Air cleaner choked and dirty giving rich mixture. Fuel leaking from carburettor fuel pump or fuel lines. Float chambers flooding. Generally worn carburettor. Distributor condenser faulty Balance weights or vacuum advance mechanism in distributor faulty. Carburettor incorrectly adjusted, mixture too rich. Idling speed too high. Contact breaker gap incorrect. Valve clearances incorrect. Incorrectly set spark plugs. Tyres under-inflated. Wrong spark plugs fitted. Brakes dragging. Emission control system faulty.

Insufficient fuel delivery or weak mixture due to air leaks

Partially clogged filters in pump and carburettor. Incorrectly seating valves in fuel pump. Fuel pump diaphragm leaking or damaged. Gasket in fuel pump damaged. Fuel pump valves sticking due to fuel gumming. Too little fuel in fuel tank (prevalent when climbing steep hills). Union joints on pipe connections loose. Split in fuel pipe on suction side of fuel pump. Inlet manifold to block or inlet manifold to carburettor gaskets leaking. Fuel tank relief valve stuck closed.

35 Fault diagnosis - fuel injection system Symptom

Reason/s

Engine will not start (fuel pump not working)

Fuse blown. Faulty electrical connections to pump. Main pump relay not operating.

Engine will not start (fuel pump running)

Pressure sensor leads faulty. Temperature sensor (coolant) leads faulty. Defective pressure regulator.

Engine starts cold but stalls

Faulty (fuel injection) control contacts within distributor Pressure sensor defective.

Engine cuts out after misfiring at normal roadspeeds

Dirty (fuel injection) contacts within distributor. Lack of fuel pressure. Loose electrical plug connector.

Engine runs irregularly (white interior to exhaust tailpipe)

Insecure connection to injector. Injector sticking.

76

Chapter 3/Fuel and exhaust systems

Symptom

Reason/s

Lack of power

Low fuel pressure. Faulty pressure sensor. Throttle valve incorrectly adjusted.

Excessive fuel consumption

Incorrectly adjusted throttle valve switch. Incorrect fuel pressure. Sensors or control unit faulty.

Engine 'hunts' at idling

Leaking hose between auxiliary air regulator and inlet manifold. Throttle valve plate not closing correctly.

Engine misfires during acceleration

Throttle valve switch faulty or plug incorrectly connected to it.

High idling speed cannot be reduced

System teaking air. Leaking seals under injector.

36 Fault diagnosis - EGR system Symptom

Reason/s

Poor idling or will not idle at all

EGR valve stuck open. Faulty vacuum signal switch (proportional system).

Engine runs erratically or accelerates slowly

Faulty EGR valve (proportional system). Incorrect residual pressure from amplifier (proportional system).

Poor engine response when engine cold

Faulty PVS valve (EGR proportional system).

Excessive exhaust gas CO emission

EGR valve stuck. Vacuum signal switch faulty. Incorrect residual pressure from amplifier (proportional system) or too high a signal. Incorrect calibrated EGR valve.

Chapter 4 Ignition system Refer to Chapter 13 for information and specifications related to later models Contents

The coil. Condenser (capacitor) - removal, testing and refitting Contact breaker - adjustment ... Contact breaker points - removal and refitting Distributor (AC Delco - engines with carburettor) - overhaul Distributor (AC Delco - engines with carb. N. America) overhaul ... ... ... . Distributor (Bosch - engines with fuel injection up to 1975) -

... ... ... ... ...

11 4 2 3 6

...

7

overhaul ... Distributor (Bosch - engines with carburettor or fuel injection 1975 on) - overhaul Distributor - removal and installation ... General description Ignition system - fault diagnosis Ignition timing ... Spark plugs and HT leads

...

8

... ...

9 5 1 13 10 12

... ... ...

Specifications

System type

Battery, coil, idler shaft driven distributor with mechanical and vacuum advance.

Distributor application A B C D E F G H J K

1969 1969/70 1970 1971/74 1971/74 1971/74 1971/74 1971/74 1975 on 1975 on

AC Delco 1953500 AC Delco 7953820 AC Delco 7953870 AC Delco 7953977 AC Delco 7953871 AC Delco 7992196 Bosch 0231163007 Bosch 0231163025 Bosch (JFU4) 0231170115 Bosch (JFU4) 0231170122

Standard (carburettor) N. America (carburettor) Standard (carburettor) Standard (carburettor) N. America (1709 cc and 1854 cc carburettor) N. America (1985 cc carburettor) ... Fuel injection (1709 cc and 1854 cc) Fuel injection (1985 cc) Carburettor engine (1985 cc) Fuel injection engine (1985cc)

Firing order

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48° to 52°

47° to 53°

47° to 53°

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0.014 in

0.016 in

0.016 in

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(0.35 mm)

(0.4 mm)

(0.4 mm)

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38° to 42°

38° to 42°

38° to 42°

38° to 42°

38° to 42°

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