Haynes Nissan Bluebird Service and Repair Manual 1859601464, 9781859601464

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BLUEBIRD» March 1986 to 1990 oetoH registration) Petrol

‘Includes

Finding and MOT

Test

Check Sections

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From covering 95% of cars on the roads today, to. and ..Service and Repair Manuals for ranging from Suf 5 to and ..books for cyclists feature and route guides include the brand new

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..books for the home covering and appliance repairs, and eae for eel including the Nant regarded Series and, last but not least, books for reading and enjoying... and

much, much more...

Doing what

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All the books featured on this page are available through motor accessory shops, cycle shops, mail order outlets and book stores. Our policy of continuous updating and development means that titles are being constantly added to the range. For up-to-date information on our complete list of titles, please telephone:

(UK) (France)

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Bill Sollis

Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ England

38011

00 027947 4

UAT

Nissan Bluebird service and Repair Manual Jeremy Churchill (1473-8X2)

Models covered All T12 & T72 Nissan Bluebird Saloons & Hatchbacks: 1598 cc, 1796 cc, 1809 cc & 1974 cc Does NOT cover U77 range, Estate or Diesel engine models

Printed by J H Haynes & Co Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

© Haynes Publishing 1995

‘

;

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

i

d. No

part of this book may

PORS 2

be reproduced or transmitted

Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Haynes North America, Inc :

.

;

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Z or mechanical, including electronic photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Editions Haynes S.A. Tour Aurore - La Défense 2, 18 Place des Reflets,

ISBN 1 85960 146 4

92975 PARIS LA DEFENSE Cedex, France

Pe in any form

i by any means, or

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sweden

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR NISSAN BLUEBIRD Introduction

Page

0Oe4

Safety First!

Page

095

Page

0°*6

Roadside Repairs Jacking, towing and wheel changing Booster battery (jump) starting

Page

08

Identifying leaks

Page

099

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

Page

010

MOT Test Checks Checks carried out from the driver’s seat

Page

0Oe11

Checks carried out with the vehicle on the ground

Page

0912

Checks carried out with the vehicle raised

Page

0913

Checks carried out on your vehicle’s exhaust emission system

Page

0914

Maintenance schedule

Page

0e*15

General dimensions, weights and capacities

Page

0e21

Recommended lubricants and fluids

Page

0*22

Routine Maintenance and Servicing

Contents REPAIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and Associated Systems Engine

Page

1e1

Cooling system

Page

2e1

Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

Page

3e1

Ignition system

Page

4e1

Clutch

Page

5e1

Manual transmission

Page

6e1

Automatic transmission

Page

7e1

Driveshafts

Page

821

Braking system

Page

921

Suspension and steering

Page

10¢1

Bodywork and fittings

Page

11¢1

Electrical system

Page

12e1

Wiring Diagrams

Page WDet

Transmission

Brakes and Suspension

Body Equipment

Tools and Working Facilities

Page

REFe1

General Repair Procedures

Page

REFe4

Fault Finding

Page

REFe5

Conversion Factors

Page

REFe8

Glossary of Technical Terms

Page

REFe9

Index

Page

REFe14

»«

Introduction

Introduction to the Nissan T12 and T72 Bluebird series Introduced early in 1986, the models covered in this manual are the result of extensive refinement of the earlier U11 series Bluebird. Considerable development work was carried out in Europe to

produce a car more suited to European tastes, particularly in the areas of handling and ride. The main distinguishing features from the U11 series are the narrower radiator grille and sloping bonnet line, coupled with a longer body and high-level boot line. The Japanese-built T12 models formed the bulk of sales throughout 1986/7 until replaced by the UK-built T72 models during 1987. The T72 models are built by Nissan Motor Manufacturing (UK) Limited in their factory in Washington, Tyne and Wear. The first cars were Saloon models, assembled from kits supplied by Japan in July 1986; Hatchback models came on stream in January 1987. At first 80% of the content of each car rapidly fell, and by October 1987, 60% of each being obtained from suppliers within the EC. press shop (to produce body panels) and an

was Japanese, but this car's components was Since the opening of a engine assembly shop

during 1988, local content has risen to more than 70%.

The 712 and T72 Bluebirds are powered by the CA-series overhead camshaft engine, available in 1.6, 1.8 and 2.0 litre carburettor, 2.0 litre

fuel-injected or 1.8 litre fuel-injected, turbocharged forms. The engine is mounted transversely at the front and drives either a five-speed manual or a four-speed automatic transaxle. Steering is by rack and pinion (power-assisted on most models) and suspension is by MacPherson strut at front and rear with anti-roll bars and transverse and trailing links. A wide range of models is offered, in both Saloons and Hatchback

form, to appeal to the fleet user as well as the private motorist. All versions of this straightforward, conventionally-engineered car are characterised by a high level of standard equipment.

Acknowledgements

Nissan Bluebird Premium

Thanks are due to the Champion Sparking Plug Company Limited who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Certain illustrations are the copyright of the Nissan Motor Company Limited of Japan and are used with their permission. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

Project vehicles The main project vehicle used in the preparation of this manual, and appearing in the majority of the photographic sequences, was a 1989 Nissan Bluebird 2.0i GSX Saloon. Additional work was carried out and photographed on a 1989 Nissan Bluebird Turbo ZX Hatchback and a 1989 Nissan Bluebird 1.6 Premium Hatchback.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which

Nissan Bluebird 1.8 Turbo ZX

they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Safety First! Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a

safety-conscious attitude.

be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

General hazards

Fume or gas intoxication

Scalding ¢ Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. ¢ Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning ¢ Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing ¢ When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps. Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack. ¢ Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.

Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire ¢ Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. ¢ Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. ¢ Do not smoke or allow naked lights

(including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). e Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. e Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. ¢ Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock ¢ Ignition HT

aby

voltage can be

people with

es ales

Sy

dangerous, especially to

¢ Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should

a0 4 tw

Af heart problems Jr or a pacemaker. af Don’t work on or wip near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

a

2

oS

Dg)

e Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often

contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine ina confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. e Fuel vapour is also

poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances ¢ Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. e Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. e Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

0e5

Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid e This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. e When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery * Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. e The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags e Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment ¢ Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Asbestos e Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember... DO

DON’T

e Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

¢ Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get assistance.

¢ Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

¢ Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle. ¢ Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

¢ Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system. ¢ Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

¢ Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. ¢ Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

e Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once. ¢ Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

»«

Roadside Repairs

Jacking, towing and wheel changing Changing road wheels With the car parked on firm, level ground, apply the handbrake firmly and select first gear or reverse gear (manual) or the ‘P’ position (automatic). Ask any passengers to get out of the car and stay clear, then remove the jack, tools and spare wheel from the

luggage compartment (photo). Remove the roadwheel trim (where fitted) and slacken the roadwheel nuts through half to 1 turn each, working in a diagonal sequence.

Using chalk or similar, mark the

relationship of the wheel to any one of the studs. Place chocks at the front and rear of the wheel diagonally opposite the one to be removed, then engage the jack in the jacking point nearest the wheel to be removed and jack up the car. Ensure the jack base rests on a firm surface. Unscrew the roadwheel nuts and remove

the wheel. Check that the stud threads and wheel-to-hub mating surfaces are clean and undamaged. If light alloy roadwheels are fitted, apply a thin smear of anti-seize compoundto the mating surfaces to prevent the formation of corrosion. The stud threads should be cleaned with a brass wire brush if rusty, and the nuts should be refitted dry. In severe cases it is permissible to apply a very thin smear of anti-seize compound to the stud threads. Clean the inside of the roadwheel. On refitting, align the marks made on removal (if the same wheel is being refitted) and refit the nuts with their tapered surfaces against the wheel. Tighten by hand as much as possible so that the wheel is correctly positioned. Lower the car to the ground, remove the jack and tighten the nuts, (working in

Using the car’s jack

Roadwheel nuts should be tightened to specified torque setting

Front towing hook

progressive

stages

and

in

a

diagonal

sequence) to the specified torque setting (photo). If a torque wrench is not available, have the tightness of the nuts checked as soon as possible, especially where light alloy

roadwheels are fitted (photo). Check the tyre pressure. Note: /f light alloy roadwheels are fitted, use a torque wrench to recheck the tightness of the roadwheel nuts 600 miles (1000 km) after the wheel is refitted. Refit the roadwheel trim (where fitted) remove the chocks and stow the jack and tools. If a new roadwheel has been fitted, have it balanced as soon as possible.

Servicing Note: Never work underneath a car that is supported only by the car jack supplied; these are intended only for changing roadwheels at the roadside (see above). The car must always be supported by axle stands during servicing work. When raising the car for servicing work, preferably use a trolley or hydraulic jack with a wooden block as an insulator to prevent damage to the underbody. Place the jack under a structural member at the points indicated, never raise the car by jacking up under the engine sump or transmission casing. If both front or rear wheels are to be raised, jack up one side first and securely support it on an axle stand before raising the other side. To avoid repetition, the procedures for raising the car in order to carry out work under it is not included before each relevant operation described in this manual.

Rear towing hook (Hatchback)

Roadside Repairs SS Wooden

Oe7

blocks

Towing hook

Workshop jacking points, axle stand locations and towing hook locations

It is to

be

preferred

and

is certainly

recommended that the car is positioned over an inspection pit or raised on a lift. When such equipment is not available, use ramps or jack up the car as previously described, but always supplement the lifting device with axle stands.

Towing Towing hooks are provided at both front and rear of the car (photos). The rear towing hook should be used only for emergency towing of another vehicle; for trailer towing a properly fitted towing bracket is required. Two

tie-down hooks are provided at the front of the front wing inner panels, but these are not

strong enough to be used for towing purposes. If the car is to be towed, arrange it so that the front wheels are clear of the ground and check that the handbrake is released. If the car must be towed with the rear wheels clear of the ground, use a towing dolly to keep the front wheels especially transmission

expensive)

off the ground as well. This is important with automatic models,

damage

can

where

serious

be caused

(and

to the

transmission if the front wheels are on the ground when the car is towed. If the car must be towed with all four wheels on

the

ground,

automatic

transmission

models must not be towed for more than 40 miles (65 km) or faster than 30 mph (50 km/h), and position ‘N’ must be selected. On all models, insert the ignition key and turn to the ‘On’ position to unlock the steering and to allow the use of lights, direction indicators and horn. Expect to apply greater than normal pressure

to

the

brake

pedal,

assistance will not be available.

as

servo

»»

Roadside Repairs r

Booster battery (jump) starting

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities: The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on. panes

C) Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following

precautions:

A) Before connecting the booster

—

battery, make sure that the ignition is

switched off. B) Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of

The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

automatic transmission).

d

fs

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

I I

ee

A

to the negative (-) terminal of the

booster battery

I

| SSS CS

I I I I L

|

a x c* Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

S| SS

ee

ee

ee

eee

ee

ee

ee

ee

ee

ee

ee

eee

eee

Roadside Repairs

0e9

Identifying leaks Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Sump oil

es

- @

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

Oil from filter

HAYNES

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a HINT clue to what’s leaking. Some fluids are distictively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Gearbox oil

1%

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

...or from the base of the oil filter.

Antifreeze

Brake fluid

)

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Power steering fluid

0

2S

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

«0

Roadside Repairs

Buying spare parts Spare

parts

are

available

from

many

sources, for example, Nissan garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare part sources is as follows. Officially appointed Nissan garages — This is the best source for parts which are peculiar to your car, and are not generally available (eg, complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim, etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if the vehicle is still under warranty — non-Nissan components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct

parts, it will be necessary to give the storeman your car’s vehicle identification number, and if possible, take the old part along for positive identification. Many parts are available under a factory exchange scheme - any parts returned should always be clean. It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part, as they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops — These are often very good places to buy materials and components needed for the maintenance of you car (eg, oil filters, spark

plugs, bulbs, drivebelts, oils and greases, touch-up paint, filler paste, etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors — Good factors will stock all the more important components which wear out comparatively quickly (eg, exhaust systems, brake pads, seals and hydraulic parts,

clutch

components,

bearing

shells,

pistons, valves, etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis — this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture, quite apart from the major model changes. Spare parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a numerical basis, the individual vehicle identification numbers being essential to correct identification of the component concerned.

When ordering spare parts, always give as much information as possible. Quote the car model, year of manufacture, body and engine numbers as appropriate. The vehicle identification number (chassis number) is stamped on a plate attached to the engine compartment bulkhead and is also stamped into the bulkhead itself (photos).

Note that this will tell you whether the car is a T12 or T72 model, and that the plate includes gross vehicle weight, gross combination weight and gross axle weight, as well as paint codes. The engine number is stamped

into a flat,

raised, surface on the front left-hand end of the cylinder block (photo).

NISSAN MOTOR MFG. (UK) LTD. 1

COLOR, TRIM FARBE. POLST

A

A

Type approval number

2

Vehicle identification number (chassis number)

3

Gross vehicle weight

4

Gross combination weight - gross vehicle weight + gross trailing capacity (weight)

5

Gross axle weight (Front)

6

Gross axle weight (Rear)

7

‘Type

8

Body colour code

9 10

Trim colour code

Model

Vehicle identification plate information

Location of vehicle identification plate

Location of vehicle identification (chassis) number

Location of engine number

MOT Test Checks

...

This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test. Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas before submitting the vehicle for the test. Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is scruffy and apparently neglected. It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here, based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some exemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynes publication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals). An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks. The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:

1 Checks carried out FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT

2 Checks carried out WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE GROUND

3 Checks carried out WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED AND THE WHEELS FREE TO

4 Checks carried out on YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST EMISSION SYSTEM

TURN

1 Checks carried out FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT

Handbrake [] Test

the

operation

of the

handbrake.

Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates incorrect brake or cable adjustment.

[] Check

that

the

handbrake

cannot

be

released by tapping the lever sideways. Check the security of the lever mountings.

Check that the brake pedal is secure and in good condition. Check also for signs of fluid leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, which would indicate failed seals in the brake master cylinder. Check the servo unit (when applicable) by operating the brake pedal several times, then keeping the pedal depressed and starting the engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or the servo itself may be faulty.

Steering wheel and column Footbrake C1 Depress the brake pedal and check that it does not creep down to the floor, indicating a master cylinder fault. Release the pedal, wait a few seconds, then depress it again. If the pedal travels nearly to the floor before firm resistance is felt, brake adjustment or repair is necessary. If the pedal feels spongy, there is air in the hydraulic system which must be removed by bleeding.

[J Examine the steering wheel for fractures or looseness of the hub, spokes or rim. Move the steering wheel from side to side and then up and down. Check that the steering wheel is not loose on the column,

indicating wear or a loose retaining nut. Continue moving the steering wheel as before, but also turn it slightly from left to right. Check that the steering wheel is not loose on the column, and that there is no abnormal

movement of the steering wheel, indicating wear in the column support bearings or couplings.

Windscreen and mirrors (_] The windscreen must be free of cracks or other significant damage within the driver’s field of view. (Small stone chips are acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.

»2

MOT Test Checks Electrical equipment Switch on the ignition and check the operation of the horn. Check the windscreen washers and wipers, examining the wiper blades; renew damaged or perished blades. Also check the operation of the stop-lights.

LJ Inspect both front brake flexible hoses for cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any part of the steering or suspension mechanism. With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.

Seat belts and seats Note: The following checks are applicable to all seat belts, front and rear.

L] Examine

the

webbing

of all the

belts

(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten each belt to check the buckles. If applicable, check the retracting mechanism. Check the security of all seat belt mountings accessible from inside the vehicle. []The front seats themselves must be securely attached and the backrests must lock in the upright position.

Doors Both front doors must be able to be opened and closed from outside and inside, and must

latch securely when closed.

2 Checks carried out WITH THE VEHICLE GROUND

ON THE

Vehicle identification J Number plates must be in good condition, secure and legible, with letters and numbers correctly spaced - spacing at (A) should be

twice that at (B).

Check the operation of the sidelights and number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors must be secure, clean and undamaged. Check the operation and alignment of the headlights. The headlight reflectors must not be tarnished and the lenses must be undamaged. Switch on the ignition and check the operation of the direction indicators (including the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the rear light cluster. Check the operation of the rear foglight(s), including the warning light on the instrument panel or in the switch.

Footbrake Examine the master cylinder, brake pipes and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings, corrosion or other damage.

Steering and suspension Have your assistant turn the steering wheel from side to side slightly, up to the point where the steering gear just begins to transmit this movement to the roadwheels. Check for excessive free play between the steering wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or insecurity of the steering column joints, the column-to-steering gear coupling, or the steering gear itself. Have your assistant turn the steering wheel more vigorously in each direction, so that the roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done, examine all the steering joints, linkages, fittings and attachments. Renew any component that shows signs of wear or

damage.

On

vehicles

with

power

steering,

check the security and condition steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.

Check that the vehicle

of the

is standing

level,

and at approximately the correct ride height.

Shock absorbers Depress each corner of the vehicle in turn, then release it. The vehicle should rise and

then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber

is defective. A shock absorber which seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.

—|

L] The VIN plate (A) and homologation (B) must be legible.

plate

The fluid reservoir must be secure and the fluid level must be between the upper (A) and lower (B) markings.

has

MOT Test Checks Exhaust system L] Start the

engine.

With

your

assistant

holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the entire system for leaks. Repair or renew leaking sections.

Front and rear suspension and wheel bearings _] Starting at the front right-hand side, grasp the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions and shake it vigorously. Check for free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings, suspension balljoints, or suspension mountings, pivots and attachments. Now grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and

6 o'clock positions and repeat the previous inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for roughness or tightness of the front wheel bearing.

0...

The same general checks apply to vehicles fitted with other suspension types, such as torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc. Ensure that all mountings and attachments are secure, that there are no signs of excessive wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged pipes.

|] Inspect the shock absorbers for signs of serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the mounting bushes or attachments, or damage to the body of the unit.

Driveshafts (fwd vehicles only) (_] Rotate each front wheel in turn and inspect the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or damage. Also check that each driveshaft is straight and undamaged.

3 Checks carried out WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED AND THE WHEELS FREE TO TURN Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle,

and securely support it on axle stands. Position the stands clear of the suspension assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are

clear of the ground and that the steering can be turned from lock to lock.

Steering mechanism

If excess free play is suspected at a component pivot point, this can be confirmed by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and levering between the mounting and the component attachment. This will confirm whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt holes can often become elongated).

L_] Have your assistant turn the steering from lock to lock. Check that the steering turns smoothly, and that no part of the steering mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body structure. 1 Examine the steering rack rubber gaiters for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips. If power steering is fitted, check for signs of damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or connections. Also check for excessive stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion of the body structure within 30 cm of any

Braking system _] If possible without dismantling, check brake pad wear and disc condition. Ensure that the friction lining material has not worn excessively, (A) and that the discs are not fractured, pitted, scored or badly worn (B).

steering component attachment point. Carry out ail the above checks at the other front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.

Springs and shock absorbers [] Examine the suspension struts (when applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion, or damage to the casing. Also check the security of the mounting points. If coil springs

are fitted, check

that the

spring ends locate in their seats, and that the spring is not corroded, cracked or broken. _] If leaf springs are fitted, check that all leaves are intact, that the axle is securely attached to each spring, and that there is no deterioration of the spring eye mountings, bushes, and shackles.

Examine all the rigid brake pipes underneath the vehicle, and the flexible hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or deterioration of the flexible hoses. Look for signs of fluid leaks at the brake calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or renew leaking components. Slowly spin each wheel, while your assistant depresses and releases the footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating and does not bind when the pedal is released.

»1

MOT Test Checks

L] Examine the handbrake mechanism, checking for frayed or broken cables, excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of the linkage. Check that the mechanism works

on each relevant wheel, and releases fully, without LJ It is without can be vehicle

binding. not possible to test brake efficiency special equipment, but a road test carried out later to check that the pulls up in a straight line.

Fuel and exhaust systems L] Inspect the fuel tank (including the filler cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All components must be secure and free from leaks. LJ Examine the exhaust system over its entire length, checking for any damaged, broken or missing mountings, security of the retaining clamps and rust or corrosion.

wheel is not distorted or damaged. (_] Check that the tyres are of the correct size for the vehicle, that they are of the same size and type on each axle, and that the pressures are correct. L] Check the tyre tread depth. The legal minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over at least three-quarters of the tread width. Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect front wheel alignment.

Body corrosion Check the condition of the entire vehicle structure for signs of corrosion in loadbearing areas. (These include chassis box sections, side sills, cross-members, pillars, and all suspension, steering, braking system and seat belt mountings and anchorages.) Any corrosion which has seriously reduced the thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to cause the vehicle to fail. In this case professional repairs are likely to be needed. L] Damage or corrosion which causes sharp or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed will also cause the vehicle to fail.

4 Checks carried out on YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST EMISSION SYSTEM

Petrol models

Wheels and tyres L] Examine the sidewalls and tread area of each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps, bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure of the ply or cord due to wear or

damage. Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated

on the wheel

rim, that the valve is

Have the engine at normal operating temperature, and make sure that it is in good tune (ignition system in good order, air filter element clean, etc). L] Before any measurements are carried out, raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm, and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow the engine speed to return to idle, and

watch for smoke emissions from the exhaust tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt (engine wear) while black smoke signifies unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other carburettor or fuel system fault). [1] An exhaust gas analyser capable of measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a local garage may agree to perform the check for a small fee.

CO emissions (mixture) [J At the time or writing, the maximum CO level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles. From January 1996 a much tighter limit (around 0.5%) applies to catalystequipped vehicles first used from August 1992. If the CO level cannot be reduced far enough to pass the test (and the fuel and ignition systems are otherwise in good condition) then the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some problem in the fuel injection system or catalytic converter (as applicable).

HC emissions With the CO emissions within limits, HC emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm (parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm; if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, this counts as a pass.

Excessive HC emissions can be caused by oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be due to unburnt fuel.

Diesel models _] The only emission test applicable to Diesel engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke density. The test involves accelerating the

engine

several

times

to

its

maximum

unloaded speed. Note: /t is of the utmost importance that the engine timing belt is in good condition before the test is carried out.

[] Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional advice may be needed to find the cause.

Routine Maintenance

0°15

Maintenance schedule Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety, and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from your car. Over the years, the need for periodic lubrication has been greatly reduced, if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required the items no longer exist, or will last forever. This is certainly not the case; it is essential to carry out regular visual examination as comprehensively as possible, in order to spot any potential defects at an early stage before they develop into major expensive repairs.

The following service schedules

as recommended by the manufacturers. Where applicable, these procedures are covered in greater detail throughout this manual, near the beginning of each chapter. Note: Under severe use, some checks are to be carried out twice as often. See the owner’s manual or a Nissan dealer for details

Ignition system (Chapter 4)

Weekly, or before any long journey Referring to the relevant Chapters of this manual, check the levels of engine oil (Chapter 1), coolant (Chapter 2), clutch hydraulic fluid (1.8 and 2.0 litre models only —

Chapter 5), automatic transmission fluid, if applicable (Chapter 7), brake hydraulic fluid (Chapter 9), power-assisted steering fluid, if applicable (Chapter 10) and washer fluid (Chapter 12). Check the tyre pressures, and the tyre treads for wear or damage (Chapter 10), check the operation of the wipers and of all electrical equipment (Chapter 12) and clean the windows and all lamp lenses.

Check the ignition timing Check the spark plugs — T12 models Renew the spark plugs — T72 models

Clutch (Chapter 5) Check the clutch hydraulic fluid level and check the system for leaks — 1.8 and 2.0 litre models Make a general check of the clutch system — all models Check the clutch operation and adjustment

Manual transmission (Chapter 6) Check for oil leaks Check the transmission oil level

Automatic transmission

(Chapter 7)

Every 3000 miles/5000 km or

Check for fluid leaks

6 months - whichever occurs first

Check the transmission fluid

Braking system (Chapter 9)

Engine (Chapter 1)

Check the brake hydraulic fluid level and check the system for leaks Make a general check of the brake system Check the brake pedal operation and adjustment and Check the handbrake operation adjustment Check the brake pads and discs

Change the engine oil — T12 Turbo models

Every 4500 miles/7500 km or 6 months - whichever occurs first

Engine (Chapter 1) Change the engine oil and filter - T72 Turbo models

Every 6000 miles/10 000 km (T12) Every 9000 miles/15 000 km (T72) or 6 months whichever occurs first

are a list of the maintenance

requirements, and the intervals at which they should be carried out,

Every 12 000 miles/20 000 km (T12) Every 18 000 miles/30 000 km (T72) or annually - whichever occurs first In addition to the operations listed above, carry out the following:

Engine (Chapter 1) Check the valve clearances

Cooling system (Chapter 2) Check condition and adjustment of drivebelts Make a general check of the cooling system

Fuel, exhaust and emission control system (Chapter 3) Check control Check Check Renew

the air cleaner automatic temperature — carburettor models the crankcase ventilation system the engine breather and vacuum hoses the fuel filter - T72 models

Ignition system (Chapter 4) Renew the spark plugs — T12 models

Manual transmission (Chapter 6) Change the oil - T72 models*

Automatic transmission (Chapter 7) Change the fluid - T72

models*

Driveshafts (Chapter 8) Check the driveshafts, joints and nuts

Suspension and steering (Chapter 10)

Braking system (Chapter 9)

Check the power-assisted steering system fluid lines for leaks

Check the brake shoes and drums Renew the brake hydraulic fluid —- T72 models

Bodywork and fittings (Chapter 11)

Suspension and steering (Chapter 10)

Lubricate the hinges, locks and door latches

Check the steering gear and linkage Check the suspension, roadwheels and tyres

Engine (Chapter 1) Change the engine oil and filter”

Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems (Chapter 3) Check idling speed and mixture Check the exhaust system for leaks security

and

* 112 carburettor-engined models /ntervals shown apply to use of non-genuine filter elements. If Nissan Premium filter is used, intervals can be extended to 12 000 miles after first 6000 and 12 000 mile services * T72 models (except Turbo) /f any filter other than Nissan Premium is used, change the engine oil and filter every 6000 miles or 6 months, whichever occurs first

Bodywork and fittings (Chapter 11) Check the seat belts Check the bodywork and underframe * No normal interval is specified, but under severe use (towing a trailer or caravan or travelling over poor road surfaces or in poor conditions) the oil or fluid should be renewed

o«s

Routine Maintenance

Every 24 000 miles/40 000 km (T12)

Every 36 000 miles/60 000 km (T72) or 2 years - whichever occurs first In addition to the operations listed in the previous services, carry out the following:

Cooling system (Chapter 2) Renew the coolant

Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems (Chapter 3) Make a general check of the fuel system Renew the air cleaner filter element Renew the fuel filter - T12 models Renew the PCV filter - T72 carburettor-

engined models

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0

conditions) the oil or fluid should be renewed

Ignition system (Chapter 4) Check leads

the distributor

cap

and

spark

plug

Every 60 000 miles/100 000 km

Manual transmission (Chapter 6) Change the oil - T12 models”

Engine (Chapter 1)

Automatic transmission

Renew the timing apparent condition

(Chapter 7) Change the fluid - T12

models*

belt, irrespective

Braking system (Chapter 9) Check the vacuum servo connections and check valve

unit

hose,

Renew the brake hydraulic fluid - T12 models * No normal interval is specified, but under severe use (towing a trailer or caravan or travelling over poor road surfaces or in poor

Engine and underbonnet component locations (carburettor engine, air cleaner removed) 17 Battery positive terminal 21 Engine oil level dipstick 12 Clutch cable adjuster unit 22 Engine oil filter cap 13 Radiator cap 23 Carburettor 14 Electric cooling fan 24 Fuel pump 15 Bonnet lock 25 Distributor 16 Horns 26 Warm air intake hose 17 Alternator 27 Air intake flexible duct 18 Washer fluid reservoir 28 Front suspension strut top mounting 19 Cooling system expansion tank 29 Spark plug HTleads 20 Relay holder 30 Speedometer cable

Vehicle identification plate Power-assisted steering fluid reservoir Brake vacuum servo unit Brake master cylinder Chassis number Windscreen wiper motor Fuel filter Ignition HT coil Fusible links Battery negative terminal

of its

Routine Maintenance

...

| d

|

‘|/

\ |

Engine and underbonnet component locations (Turbo) 1 Vehicle identification plate

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Power-assisted steering fluid reservoir Brake vacuum servo unit Brake master cylinder Chassis number Windscreen wiper motor Fuel filter Ignition HT coil Fusible links Battery negative terminal Battery positive terminal Clutch master cylinder

13 Radiator cap

25 Distributor/crank angle sensor

14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36

Electronic cooling fan Bonnet lock Horns Alternator Washer fluid reservoir Cooling system expansion tank Relay holder Engine oil level dipstick Engine oil filler cap IAA unit Throttle chamber

Air intake tube Airflow meter Air cleaner Front suspension strut top mounting Power-assisted steering pump Boost sensor Headlamp beam adjuster Steering gear Resonator assembly Spark plug HTleads Speedometer pinion assembly

»s

Routine Maintenance

Engine and underbonnet component locations (2.0i GSX) Vehicle identification plate Power-assisted steering fluid reservoir Brake vacuum servo unit Brake master cylinder Chassis number Windscreen wiper motor Fuel filter Ignition (HT) coil OAAWNH™ DANO Fusible links Battery negative terminal Battery positive terminal Clutch master cylinder ~~ mm o-O

13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

Radiator cap Electric cooling fan Bonnet lock Horns Alternator Washer fluid reservoir Cooling system expansion tank Relay holder Engine oil level dipstick Engine oil filler cap IAA unit Throttle chamber

25 26 27 28 29 30 37 32 33 34 35 36

Distributor/crank angle sensor Air intake duct Airflow meter Air cleaner Front suspension strut top mounting Power-assisted steering pump Pressure regulator/fuel rail assembly Headlamp beam adjuster Econometer vacuum hose PCV valve Spark plug (HT) leads Speedometer cable

Routine Maintenance...

1 Engine oil drain plug 2 Transmission oil drain plug

3 4 5 6 7

Front underbody view (undershields and underwing shields removed) 15 Gear position switch 8 Electric cooling fan 16 Radiator bottom hose 9 Front suspension lower arm 17 Power-assisted steering pump pivot bolt 10 Brake caliper 18 Gearchange support rod 11 Anti-roll bar 19 Gearchange control rod 12 Steering track rod

Tie-down hooks Towing hooks Alternator Engine mounting longitudinal member Radiator

13 Oil pressure switch 14 Driveshaft

20 Front suspension lower arm mounting plate

»»

Routine Maintenance

Rear underbody view 1 2 3 4 5

Exhaust system rear section Fuel tank Rear anti-roll bar Rear suspension crossmember Rear suspension front transverse link

6 Rear suspension rear (adjustable) transverse link 7 Spare wheel well 8 Rear suspension trailing arm 9 Handbrake cable

10 171 12 13 14

Fuel hose Fuel filter tube Fuel tank breather tubes Rear suspension strut Towing hooks

Routine Maintenance.

.....

General dimensions, weights and capacities Dimensions Overall length: Sel a.o]m — Zevanminnlaye sys ° a Be Be ERS oe eee ee meee (eacaes i. eee SAO Beale ROC CIS Bae Ree vs a acc diye cielcreveltov haa eleteaien sie’ matenbackeseany mGGels! Mee fee fae. es Mesa bane eens Flatchback— later MOCeIS Me Stee oc cs EE sc ee ee Overall aictinh WE eee 6 8 RRR RRVRRneire:, gto Sere, Gace rene OVETAINDENGIME cc.ccc Set RT SPT Merino ae oc Soe 0 en So RM Mo a ares Wheelbase ttc. 0 ERE Coe cc oo os eS ait dime esis oes Track —TrOntaAnd fata et. Pee ete res leis ete nge wialene agrees Minin -GrOUnGielearance fy tides a ssveraenare ee Mig uses aielaeuenausualaoue TRUaat inte, ettLaas, Fee, GMS) SND OYeen ORE REN CCRC eet ae aa

4405 mm (173.4 in) 4460 mm (175.6 in) 4365 mm (171.9 in) 4410 mm (173.6 in) 1690 mm (66.5 in) 1395 mm (54.9 in) 2550 mm (100.4 in) 1460 mm (57.5 in) 150 mm (5.9 in) 10.0 m (82.8 ft)

Weights Kerb weight: EL ESC aren linia 5 wathwel eevehcrerd alee eucten tice hetceciercecmere crc ear AGE Gc. ccf .5 ss © gpcuimemtgonenceimnmimicevynloe Serare uN ALS “PSUR eM CTSe (Pala Orel) & Ge, Sener eels eet sceenictc teromrenceeic Acie)

pen

Fuel pressure as. Regulated fuel pressure

RMaxinmliim Variation)

iene re ce ee Belts

cet token Mts © occ = eisai wc eerie win eet

ta. 08 Wi.

cee

ee

Turbocharger = Sfancardiboost PreSSUN@ wer sia seaeile = pale ieyersaececil risen seer eee eter reees Emergency relief valve operates at ..... 6... er BERL Axial lary Mame He tee te Mee heads eateteene econ ait netiaysfeemnonr

Rear mounted fuel tank, electric fuel pump, computer controlled fuel injection system, turbocharged 60 litres (13.2 Imp gals) 97 RON (4-star leaded only)

650 + 100 rpm 800 to 900 rpm

2.0% maximum 8.0% maximum 2200 + 200 rpm

Champion L102 206 to 255 kPa (30 to 37 psi)

250.1 kPa (36 psi) 43.3 to 48.7 kPa (6.3 to 7.1 psi) 52.0 kPa (7.5 psi) 0.013 to 0.091 mm (0.0005 to 0.0036 in)

3¢3

3e4

Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems ee

a

eee

eee

Accelerator cable adjustment Soja oeirloellelemenn(GLe, (RCL Ck) canacorsobennocovconocmonnoahos Free play, atipedal)padicentre meniscal aiecisste «lve Sc wlio:

1.0 to 2.0 mm (0.04 to 0.08 in) 1.0 to 3.0 mm (0.04 to 0.12 in)

Torque wrench settings ................... 0. cee eee eee

See Part D below

Part C: 2.0 litre fuel injection engines General Rear mounted fuel tank, electric fuel pump, computer-controlled fuel injection system 60 litres (13.2 Imp gals) Fuelitankicapacityl(@p Prox) mre ie rene stet tnt steneta t-te iar 97 RON (4-star leaded) or super/super plus unleaded”) UE CY ISIS) com rcop oo en Huo UO DIGo cme oldie to oto mints *This model can use Premium grade unleaded if the ignition timing is first retarded (see Chapter 4) WEYCHMNGE)

otic oreg act

ao ald OO

OCR

OCC

OOO

cache Sich

Fuel injection system adjustments Re LeiSeYeXEVEYC| nates goscoevostee cece ear cin cat BechObaotePONerrenIre: cro? Gistho Ger od Dako FIC DISpeedi(EXeCULIVE) mars cise ccieasche cacte cre teienelet otra loners darieltacare COjleveliatidle:speed se...os e.cee « «Af LIMA Rhee SAR eters SAP EE ches a Dashpot touch speed: Mali tiallerenereiepe rita curs. faceyske: ory e Arce merece os eehusiat vactedce ae tea ernvaued »

800 + 50 rpm 950 to 1050 rpm 1.54+0.5% 2200 to 2600 rpm 3300 to 3700 rpm

Champion L102

Fuel pressure Maximuimivariation: 2 vcne.saciss Staessen lee ae ane eee Regulated fuelipreSsSure: fe ttatuestresern tcuccs Gia vie Mee ome nie

255 to 304 kPa (37 to 44 psi)

299.1 kPa (43 psi)

Accelerator cable adjustment Sioppemoolilengthi (le FIgsSa/)iemcke-miee Free'playzat pedal. pad centres, «5... i

touted cristae rete stele ain: smalls Ciel aan b een an Gictatee

jmorque wrench: settings (ata cee con

eee

5.0 to 6.0 mm (0.20 to 0.24 in)

1.0 to 3.0 mm (0.04 to 0.12 in) See Part D below

Part D: All models

Torque wrench settings RUS tankgmoOuntinGiDOlMS yt. s. ac fee RR ES ys RIA atc GI ee em FuelihOSSIClAMPZSChEWS ise mo eguene cues eee eite cin4s,cose) c Cisne ps padradweus ety Electric fuel pump/fuel gauge sender unit mounting bolts ........... Mechanical fuel pumpi mounting NUTS sea... a4 oe a ie el eos Accelerator pedal bracket mounting bolts ....................06Accelevatomoedal Stopper bolt lOCKMUtmmmerscn tensile siete esiaiarsienie CarburcttomMOoUNtingiMUtSs..... «scapes yeep cca aga bakes ok ecu eee DibrottlewvalVerswitcn bolts) (UNDO) ss aeyens aero areneaye ihrottletchambermAlicmDoltS myanc.a se acorn oe acme cl ena: Orne ereser IAAunitimountingifasteners: ajc: a. a6 «noc ou+ss «+ SAV O eee tare Altre QularormMmOunting toOltS meyer vaic en keecrareie arenas meter err ital cone Fuel injector mounting bolts: SCI OMI Rory cota esky aS cashes wal cc Sas eetel Moi puede reese! es,sites actos ZAOMitrenuUeliMeECtOnImMOCGelS sees ner merestsce errsicleieta sine eaatenetcte cs Intake manifold front stay bolts: RUUD Oe aie,wccrete act alate: 2)aac.-0) er5,oOReiGS TE MOMOHIGRS Rani to EPCOS, PeREI ZA Ollitretueliinjection models = a... 5... seni c aeteeet even oncheek tee netitane Intake manifold rear stay (2.0 litre fuel injection models): OWI Breer teeters tee cme sence. axteenties Me, arene ail unite win eto Sumer tans Medea cteich nuvionci cre cesuas, oso tues Mas eeee te ee Intake collector to manifold (2.0 litre fuel injection models) .......... iIntakeimanifoldinuts ancibolts:) (Cold)ite cissm si) teepe arene ene ie PGVivalVowrmerrete cece ceerattrcrercreratans tote, © Gove seycacrereret ces aieeusencieae eee PCV valve mounting bracket bolts (Turbo) .....................5. Exhaustmanitoldinuts:and Dolisi(Gold)jmrsieriiere): sinister eee Exhaustimanitold heatzshield|boltSieyyaccmcc 210 aeieenche sre teennee [Wid exorel FANGLEY nNOLMIMIMG) NUS. a «oom aoe podancsoneonsongnasenbans Turbocharger-to-exhaust outlet nuts ....................0000 eee hurbochargemneatshicidibolismurncemieser ete reciae carsierere nectar eine Turbocharger oil feed pipe union nuts ................0 eee eee ee Turbocharger coolant pipe union banjo bolts ..................... Murbochargemoilloutletipipe Union nUtmene ner errenathen teint here Exhaust downpipe-to-manifold nuts (cold): 2 Ollttre tuellinjsctionwer. rte mie ee a eaten rs are All.otherimodels® trv.ci eyaus ee ame 1.8 (including Turbo) and 2.0 litre models ....................-*See owner’s manual for full details

Gear oil to API GL-4, viscosity SAE 80 to 90*

2.7 litres (4.8 Imp pints) 2.8 litres (4.9 Imp pints) 4.7 litres (8.3 Imp pints)

Transmission overhaul data - 1.6 litre models Gear pinion endfloat: we ele nee renee = eran nae nrnedsManenanenale Input Shaft Sth! Geatiavers ce sige cn alanis Hi aie Output shaft 1st.Qoar Bec3 Ale» Glee ee eee ... 1c eee eee Output shaft 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears ..... Snap ring (input shaft) or C-ring (output shaft)-to-groove clearance ... Gear pinion-to-baulk ring clearance: UE pol gel cece seri chd,credvoona, Sceacatee Chokeaete cnrMCMC VorctouthiA. Oto idj-0 ‘oscno oc lininesiteoseeehenen erick o.|Rkicus, CARERS niruch RONPEORCARER cin bios ofSiren) oss cya LM Halinnve eee eens eee eee -..-see Output shaft bearing preload .... Sungear-to-differential case maximum Clearance .......----+...54 eee ee eee eee eee . .... 0 eee Differential side bearing preload .... Turning torque: Sepeiae, tate AM teiee ~~ = keyed-Asrelenan herarstaaie Differemtiallomlyanwewee 5 oa yob cles SH sauna do ouonmomoumomomoeaaEtS c TROVE

0.18 to 0.41 mm(0.0071 to 0.0161in) 0.18 to 0.31 mm (0.0071 to 0.0122in) 0.20 to 0.40 mm (0.0079 to 0.0158in) 0 to 0.10 mm (0 to 0.0039 in) 1.00 0.70 0.18 0.30 0.29

to 1.35 mm mm (0.0276 to 0.27 mm mm (0.0118 to 0.35 mm

Fuel injection

(0.0394 to 0.0532in) in) (0.0071 to 0.0106in) in) (0.0114 to 0.0138in)

3.9 to 7.8 Nm (35 to 69 Ibf in)

5.9 to 13.7 Nm (62 to 121 Ibf in)

3.400:1 1.955:1 1.273:1 0.911:1 0.740:1 3429: 1

(51/15T) (43/22T) (42/33T) (41/45T) (387/50T) (48/14,29T)

6e2 Manual transmission ce cent caenbA i pinmd na

ee

a

aD

Transmission overhaul data - 1.8 and 2.0 litre models Gear pinion endfloat: tee tet cre aie e a wie alse ances iets (cllCeaeewwewmmeer INnPUtSh atthe inmate Gia hic scracelte i oe 0 @ me tatlekanteliage ealiemmearwscm Infouttshatteth GG ImoutishaftSthG Ca tamer ner ae mane et tts nica ns.«ese cue alee eee OMOEA ISI COE cooo55 Fans cated ome cio mae mmm oie ao Ol

Outoutishat2ndigear Ss cee

te tect. . lekhste ote een sce eis

Snap ring or thrustwasher-to-groove clearance: InpUitshatizsre/Athisyimc iis InUkaimewaes cmeratl atte ayes ict Aleahfaterat- (eeketerte wu tchotoo bic ooo GE CEI eal) 5 homese abe Oh aye Sel Outouishatteles!/2ncl/Symchro=-MUbieewws sta sles «0 arene elena kee OUTOU PSE Sin GSE [SMC son omcag oes moa comb nomenon hoc Gear pinion-to-baulk ring clearance: STAN GANG anne ee CRN a muss sie Rares oe serie a)Scans Areata ehMatlage aero MATAURITDs capes sos6 aedD Okc ops Oneca ener Were. n.d,carensree ietorro cicacao oon InpUirshatteenichlon treme nei: hry sence os trie ciecn ioks mtorr emmena airentrnts nes Oufoutshatt bearingtorelOdd =wee... Ave erent ARMIN Pcie Sungear-to-differential case clearance ....... 0000 ceee.. eee ee ee af gees oe Differentialiside bearing PKElOAGMe a. 2 = nem crtrapardeue Turning torque: DIRE MTAIEOMIVeo ccxyehe ciessicrre cleraity spas cma anaiats ais)(a.nia! Riese esl isa) a restnnel a hotaletranSniSS| Onl ertsseeweaewe weysake Sie ate etic + eerie ome aye eeee snes omen

Torque wrench settings

to to to to

0.23 0.25 0.23 0.23

0.43 0.55 0.48 0.43

mm mm mm mm

(0.0091 (0.0098 (0.0091 (0.0091

to to to to

0.0169in) 0.0217in) 0.0189in) 0.0169in)

0.23 to 0.58 mm (0.0091 to 0.0228in) 0 0 0 0

to to to to

0.10 0.06 0.10 0.15

mm mm mm mm

(0 (0 (0 (0

to to to to

0.0039 0.0024 0.0039 0.0059

in) in) in) in)

1.00 to 1.35 mm (0.0394 to 0.0532in)

0.70 0 to 0.25 0.10 0.40

mm (0.0276 in) 0.06 mm (0 to 0.0024 in) to 0.31 mm (0.0098 to 0.01 22in) to 0.20 mm (0.0039 to 0.0079in) to 0.46 mm (0.0158 to 0.0181in)

4.9 to 7.8 Nm (43 to 69 Ibf in) 8.8 to 21.6 Nm (78 to 191 Ibf in)

Nm

Ibf ft

25 to 34 10 to 20

18.5 to 25 Tsu) 15)

25 to 34 15 to 20

18.5 to 25 TOS

17 to 22 16 to 21 27 to 36 31 to 40 20 to 25 8 to 11 8 to 11 Se Oro.0) 20 to 29 Saf tOrorO 29 to 39

12.5 to 16 12 to 15.5 20 to 26.5 23 to 29.5 15 to 18.5 6 to 8 6 to 8 2.5 to 4 loto2icS 2.5 to 4 Zio tO 29

38 to 46 18 to 22 30 to 40

28 to 34 13 to 16 22 to 29.5

16 to 22 30 to 40

12 to 16 22 to 29.5

30 to 40 43 to 58

22 to 29.5 32 to 43

39 39 49 44 16

49 49 59 54

29 to 36 29 to 36 36 to 43.5 32.5 to 40

to 21 74 to 88

12 to 15.5 54.5 to 65

6.3 to 8.3 16 to 21 6.3 to 8.3 19 to 25 6.3 to 8.3 15 to 20

4.5 to6 2KORISSS 4.5 to6 14 to 18.5 4.5 to6 11 to 15

16 to 21 16 to 21 16 to 22

12'to) 1525 Ito) Es 12 to 16

16 to 21

li2tOmlaeo

Filler/level plug: WP VOWURCORUANGO Oi/te aye stamped aries psteue o> clams, denen ade euste REDTUAIVe | OGM OMe caccmns sitar eect niantasers car's eserameeriayen taeerste ners arnteas Drain plug: cere sere merece ec mee usete Gre ae nee eeu eens RGHitretmoOdel|stmmemee. nsicmsige: GAO THE MOC STS cas airetaye eyvapeerrersico JOT PN a amcqucuteW ce armetehin entorthas Gearchange lever and linkage: Control rod-to-striking rod yoke through-bolt retaining nut ........ Control rod-to-gear lever through-bolt retaining nut ............. Support rod bracket-to-bellhousing bolts ..................-++. SUD PORGLOC LOS OLACKEL MUL cucmemcashsaeny Speusieiey spi oticell-lieateth oaaty sacpemcae a Support rod-to-gear lever holder bracket nut ................... Support rod-to-gear lever socket nutS ...............++-++2-0> Gear lever holder bracket mounting nuts ..................--.. Speedometer pinion assembly retaining screw ................-.. ReversmeplampISwitCiie me ncckectetse tsere as oe et coke eteee eee eos Stee Gear PositioniswitchretalnimnGiSCrew) veyyeyeie seis) eee eraser ie a eye etre SLEEP MOUS MOWING) ONS EMCNMMU sono cc onoadancononomhosceus Intake manifold stay-to-bellhousing bolts — 2.0 litre fuel injection models: LOlmmATshMKCACUSIZO) ee eawese-celsos mvceeeccocavece cicsoins wy tena a ao te: SriMingt CAG SIZS wrendisc wisp cualrises a aclu doe use hon agsyAEE ua Se ee Engine/transmission stay-to-cylinder block/crankcase bolts ......... Bellhousing-to-cylinder block/crankcase — 1.6 litre models: Stay isy25) Inalan nel Sloan OMG) c cco dou caeo dome: gacencucen ome PONG SEDO MS An CMINUteens nee restates siasta/s.e Gaswostosis tenses Bellhousing-to-cylinder block/crankcase — 1.8 and 2.0 litre models: BOltse2 Surin Ciaenenea eeie ate a Natgcceyclehe tc erm aaa an age AIMOMOSTOOIES AM Cin Ub esaye penar> tefours ores cpa ace serieteeaeh st gem werae Engine/transmission left-hand mounting: Uno NA OWE ENMING)InWidn sic celeinces homoge opwmosdn sone nae Mounting-to-inner wing panel bolts ............-0000e eevee eee Mounting-to-transmission casing bolts — 1.6 litte models ......... Mounting-to-transmission casing bolts — 1.8 and 2.0 litre models .. .

Transmission casing-to-bellhousing bolts ....................00Crownwheel-to-differential case bolts .............000000eeeeee Transmission components — 1.6 litre models: Circular cover-to-transmission casing bolts .................... Input shaft bearing retainer-to-bellhousing bolts ................

Control bracket-to-bellhousing bolts .................0.0000-. IME ClMEMMGUC, Tonasc5canGenuAndeatolcacaandconouacadd Reverse detent plunger assembly screws ...........-...-e000SWitchiblankingGiplugsi=c esse ercdeiodecn: « eee ee ersree eee Transmission components — 1.8 and 2.0 litre models: Reverse level asSeMmlvmOuMtinc) OILS mn teiet ete nnn einen cieene Reversecelemi assem yan OUMtinc) OC lta nn aea tt linen meee Sth/reverse, 3rd/4th and 1st/2nd detent plugs .................. RevorseniclloreshartibOltes.

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Manual transmission From the input shaft, drive is transmitted to

1 General description The transmission is mounted in a cast aluminium alloy casing bolted to the left-hand end of the engine and consists of the gearbox and final drive differential. This type of design is sometimes also called a transaxle. The gearbox is fitted to enable the driver to select the gear ratio which will most closely match the engine’s performance with the load imposed on the car. To this end, five forward gear ratios are provided, as well as the reverse gear and neutral position. The differential is fitted to allow the roadwheels to rotate at different speeds (as they must do when the Car is cornering) while still maintaining drive to both. Drive is transmitted from the crankshaft via the clutch to the input shaft, which rotates in ball journal and/or needle roller bearings and has a long extension. The extension carries the clutch friction plate, which is supported in a spigot bush in the crankshaft left-hand end.

the output shaft, which rotates in bearings, and from there to the crownwheel. This rotates with the case and planetary gears, thus

sungears and driveshafts. The rotation of the planetary gears on their shaft allows the inner roadwheel to rotate at a slower speed than the

outer roadwheel when the car is cornering. The input and output shafts are arranged side by side, parallel to the crankshaft and driveshaft, so that the gear pinion teeth are in constant mesh. In the neutral position, the gear pinions rotate freely on needle roller bearings or bushes, so drive is not transmitted from the input shaft. When the driver selects a gear, the selector mechanism causes the appropriate shift fork to move its synchro-sleeve along the shaft to lock the gear pinion to the synchro-hub. Since the synchro-hubs are splined to their shafts, this locks the gear pinion to the shaft so that drive can be transmitted. To ensure that

gearchanging can be made quickly and quietly a synchro-mesh system is fitted on all forward gears, consisting of baulk rings, spreader springs and/or shifting inserts, as well as the gear pinions and synchro-hubs. The synchromesh cones are formed on the mating faces of the baulk rings and gear pinions. Gear selection is by a floor-mounted lever acting through a remote control linkage on the selector mechanism.

2 Routine maintenance =

Fig. 6.1 Checking the transmission oil level - 1.6 litre models (Sec 2) —— A

Speedometer cable—

taper-roller differential differential driving the

2 Carefully inspect the transmission and bellhousing joint faces and oil seals for signs of damage, deterioration or oil leakage. Check also the reversing lamp or gear position switch (as applicable) and switch blanking plugs.

3 Park the car on level ground, apply the handbrake firmly and switch off the ignition. Do not start the engine or allow the car to move while checking the oil level. 4 Unscrew the female socket-headed filler/level plug from the front of the transmission (photo) using a suitable drain plug key and spanner. On cars built before February 1987 a 13 mm (1/2 inch) square key is required; on cars built subsequently a 10 mm square key will be needed. 5 Using a finger, check that the oil level is up to the bottom of the filler/level plug hole. If topping-up is required, add only good quality oil of the specified type. 6 If the transmission has been overfilled so that oil flows out as soon as the filler/level plug is removed, check that the car is completely level (side-to-side and front-to-rear) then allow the surplus to drain off into a suitable container. Refit the filler/ievel plug as soon as the flow stops and wash off any spilt oil. 7 When the level is correct, clean the filler/level plug, apply a smear of sealant to its threads and refit it, tightening it to the specified torque setting.

Check the transmission oil level 1.8 (including Turbo) and 2.0 litre models 8 Park the car on level ground, apply the handbrake firmly and switch off the ignition. Do not start the engine or allow the car to move while checking the oil level. 9 Undo the single retaining screw and withdraw the speedometer pinion assembly from the rear of the transmission; there is no need to disconnect the speedometer cable.

Wipe clean the pinion assembly, especially the pinion teeth, and insert the assembly back into the transmission to serve as a dipstick. Ensure that the pinion sleeve sits on the upper surface of the transmission casing as shown in Fig. 6.2. Withdraw the pinion assembly and check that the oil level is within the limits shown, on the pinion teeth. 11 If topping-up is required, add only good quality oil of the specified type (photo). If the level is too high the surplus can be removed using a syringe or similar.

:

mm (in)

Fig. 6.2 Checking the transmission oil level - 1.8 (including Turbo) and 2.0 litre models

(Sec 2)

Check the transmission oil level 1.6 litre models

VWUUG10

1 At the intervals given in ‘Routine maintenance’ at the beginning of this manual, carry out the following service operations on the transmission.

Check for oil leaks

Unit:

6¢3

zs 2.4 Unscrewing filler/level plug — 1.6 litre models

*

2.11 Topping-up transmission oil - 1.8

(including Turbo) and 2.0 litre models

6e4

Manual transmission 15 Open the bonnet and remove the filler/level plug (1.6 litre models) or the speedometer pinion assembly (all other models) as described above. Place a suitable container under the transmission. 16 On 1.6 litre models use a 13 mm (1/2 inch) square drain plug key and suitable spanner to unscrew the female socket-headed drain plug

from the transmission casing, below the lefthand driveshaft (photo). 17 On 1.8 (including Turbo) and 2.0 litre

2.17 Location of drain plug — 1.8 (including Turbo) and 2.0 litre models

2.16 Unscrewing drain plug - 1.6 litre models 12

When

the

level

is correct,

check

the

sealing O-ring fitted to the speedometer pinion sleeve and renew it if it is worn or damaged, then apply a smear of grease to the O-ring and refit the pinion assembly, ensuring that the gear teeth mesh correctly. Tighten the retaining screw to the specified torque setting and wash off any spilt oil.

Renew the transmission oil - all models 13 This operating is much quicker and more efficient if the car is first taken on a journey of sufficient length to warm the engine/ transmission up to normal operating temperature. 14 Park the car on level ground, apply the handbrake firmly and switch off the ignition.

(epee ier Gear lever knob

Gear lever

OS

Dust cover

Gear lever socket Upper bearing Qe

Lower bearing

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Fig. 8.10 Remove the circlip to release the inner joint spider (Sec 4)

(S)

.

(0)

- Dust shield Support bearing

Support bearing retainer Bracket

Circlip Dust shield

Fig. 8.12 Support bearing assembly 1.8 and 2.0 litre models only (Sec 4)

Fig. 8.11 Inner joint bellows set length (Sec 4)

L = 101.5 to 103.5 mm (4.00 to 4.07in)

doubt about its condition. It is available only with a repair kit which includes both bellows clips, a joint retaining clip and a quantity of the specified grease.

Inner joints - dismantling and reassembly 18 Remove the bellows clips, then slide the bellows off the joint and towards the middle of the shaft. 19 Mark the relationship of the joint body to the driveshaft, then pull the joint body off the spider; ensure that the spider’s rollers remain in place. Mark the relationship of the spider to the shaft and use circlip pliers to remove the circlip from the shaft end. Then withdraw the spider and the bellows from the shaft (see

Fig. 8.10).

Fig. 8.13 Pressing support bearing and housing off inner joint’sextended shaft (Sec 4)

Check the splined section for signs of wear or damage and ensure that there are no signs of wear around the ball cage windows, also that there are no signs of cracking between balls. 14 Check that the joint’s outer end is free from signs of wear or damage. Check particularly that the threaded and splined lengths are in good condition. 15 If the joint shows any sign of wear or damage it must be renewed. 16 Note that on later models a shield is pressed on to the joint to protect the wheel hub bearing from dirt or water. It may be necessary to transfer the shield (where fitted) to the replacement joint. Check that the shield is of the correct type for the new joint. 17 Carefully check the joint bellows, looking for signs of splits, cracking or other wear or

damage.

Renew the bellows if there is any

20 On refitting, wind a thin layer of insulating tape around the shaft’s end to protect the bellows from the shaft splines and other sharp edges. Fit the new small bellows clip and slide the bellows on to the driveshaft. Remove the tape and refit the spider. If the original spider is re-used, align the marks made on dismantling. Fit a new circlip to secure the spider. 21 Pack the correct amount of the specified type of grease (supplied with the repair kit) around the spider rollers and into the joint body. Fit the joint body over the spider. Where the original body is being re-used align the marks made on dismantling. 22 Slide the bellows on to the joint body, expelling any trapped air, then fit a new larger bellows clip. Tighten the clip as shown in Fig. 8.7, then bend back the end and secure it

under the tags as shown in Fig. 8.8. 23 Set the bellows so that its length is as shown in Fig. 8.11, then check that its smaller end is located in the driveshaft groove and that the bellows is

not stretched or deformed when at this length. Fit a new smaller bellows clip, tighten it as shown in Fig. 8.7, then bend back the end and

secure it under the tags as shown in Fig. 8.8.

Inner joints - inspection 24 Thoroughly clean the joint components, using a suitable solvent to remove all traces of grease, then dry it, preferably using compressed air. Ensure that all traces of grease and solvent are removed. 25 Examine the spider assembly closely, looking for damaged or missing rollers, worn splines or any other wear or damage. If any such signs are found the spider must be renewed. 26 Check the joint body for signs of wear or damage, particularly the spider roller tracks. Check also the splined section. Renew the joint body if it is worn or damaged in any way. 27 Carefully check the joint bellows, looking for signs of splits, cracking or other wear or damage. Renew the bellows if there is any doubt about its condition. It is available only with a repair kit which includes both bellows, clips, a circlip, a retaining clip (where necessary) and a quantity of the specified grease.

Driveshaft - inspection 28 Once both constant velocity joints have been removed as described above, the driveshaft itself can be checked for worn splines or retaining clip grooves, or for signs of

cracking, bending or twisting. If any of these are found the driveshaft must be renewed. 29 If the driveshaft is to be renewed, note that it is available only as part of the complete assembly or as part of a driveshaft repair kit.

Support bearing - dismantling and reassembly 30 On all 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, first tap the shield dust right-hand off the gently driveshaft’s inboard end, then prise the larger dust shield out of the bearing housing’s inboard side. Use circlip pliers to remove the circlip set against the bearing itself. 31 Press the bearing housing and bearing off the inner joint’s extended shaft section, as shown in Fig. 8.13.

Driveshafts 32 Invert the assembly and use circlip pliers to remove the large circlip, then remove the dust shield. Using as a drift a socket or similar which bears only on the bearing’s outer race, tap the bearing out of the housing. 33 On reassembly, pack the bearing with grease and tap it into the housing until the dust shield and a new large circlip can be refitted (Fig. 8.14). Ensuring that the bearing’s inner race is fully supported, press the inner joint’s extended shaft section into the bearing until

8¢7

not coincide with the fitting of a replacement inner joint repair kit, it may be possible to obtain a replacement bearing from a bearing supplier. Make an accurate note of the bearing’s outer and inner diameters and of its width and also of any manufacturer’s marks or numbers, and take this to the supplier so that the correct item can be found. 37 All other components of the assembly should be checked for obvious signs of wear or damage and renewed if necessary.

a new smaller circlip can be refitted to its

5 Driveshaft bellows — removal and refitting

groove. 34 Refit the two dust shields to the bearing housing and to the driveshaft inboard end, respectively.

Support bearing - inspection 35 Note that none of the support bearing assembly’s components are available separately (apart from the bearing bracket and

bolts). If any are worn or damaged they can only be renewed as part of the right-hand inner joint repair kit. In spite of this, Nissan recommend that the bearing retaining circlips are renewed whenever they are disturbed. 36 To check the bearing itself, hold its inner race and spin the outer race, then try to feel for free play between the two. The bearing should spin smoothly and quietly, slowing down steadily with no sign of roughness and there should be no trace of free play between the inner and outer races. The bearing must be renewed if it is worn or damaged. If this does

“ NS

1 Remove the driveshaft from the car. See Section 3 of this Chapter. 2 To renew the inner joint bellows, release the bellows clips and slide back the bellows, then

dismantle the joint and withdraw the bellows (see Section 4 of this Chapter). 3 If both inner and outer joints’ bellows are to be renewed, the outer joint bellows clips can then be released and the bellows can be withdrawn along the length of the shaft. if this course is adopted, be careful on refitting to clean the shaft thoroughly and to protect the new bellows from any splines or sharp edges by wrapping a thin layer of insulating tape around the shaft at these points.

Fig. 8.14 Tapping support bearing into housing - tool must fit onlyagainst bearing outer race (Sec 4) 5 On both inner and outer joints, clean out as much of the grease as possible, using a plastic or wooden spatula and old rags. Do not use solvents unless the joint is to be completely dismantled, so that it can be dried properly.

6 Check the joint components for signs of wear or damage. If any are found the joint must be renewed (see Section 4 of this Chapter). 7 On reassembly, pack the joint with the correct amount of the specified grease (supplied with the kit). Pack any surplus

alone,

grease into the bellows. Refit the bellows and reassemble the joint as described in Section 4

release the bellows clips and slide back the bellows, then dismantle the joint and withdraw the bellows (see Section 4 of this Chapter.)

of this Chapter. 8 Refit the driveshaft to the car (see Section 3 of this Chapter.)

4 To

renew

the outer

joint bellows

Fault finding — driveshafts Note: This Section is not intended to be an exhaustive guide to fault diagnosis but summarises the more common faults which may be encountered during a car’s life. Consult a dealer for more specific advice

Vibration and/or noise, especially on tight turns _] Worn outer constant velocity joint(s)

Vibration when accelerating ] Worn inner constant velocity joint(s) Bent or distorted driveshaft(s) Worn support bearing (1.8 and 2.0 litre models)

Noise on taking up drive Worn driveshaft or constant velocity joint splines Worn constant velocity joints Loose driveshaft nut

8e8

i

Driveshafts

8

A Notes

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Chapter 9 Braking system Contents Brake Brake Brake Fault

hyaraulic System) pleedinG yc sass sue es eile | sice e eeeiaer 8 pedal — removal and refitting system warning lamps - general ............-000000 05 30 diagnosis — braking system .............

Erohiibrake Callpen—OVEUlaUlliaicd stn nye cuba eo neo « MimeNS omtentens Front brake caliper — removal and refitting ..................0. Front brake disc — inspection, removal and refitting ............. Front brake disc shield — removal and refitting ................. Front brake pads — inspection and renewal ................06SENSE NEL SO SES ey eee eS ea Pe Handbrake cables — removal and refitting .................05. Handbrake lever — removal and refitting .............-5.02 ees Hydraulic pipes and hoses - inspection, removal and refitting ....

14 13 ne 16 12 1 29 28 9

Master CVIMGSL—OVEMIAU esc sae ceas copa won oe AUSPS REDON PONT OPTS if Master cylinder — removal and refitting ..................00005 10 Pressure-reducing valve — removal and refitting ................ 17

Rear brake’ caliner oVerhaulitee cr cic ats s-c-ccvncetere-cmre acre Rear brake caliper - removal and refitting .................... Rear brake disc — inspection, removal and refitting ............. Rear brake disc shield —- removal and refitting ................. Rear brake drum — removal, inspection and refitting ............ Rear brake pads — inspection and renewal .................... Rear brake shoes — inspection and renewal ................... Rear drum brake backplate - removal and refitting ............. Rear wheel cylinder. = Overhaul soccer. ce ee wes ee ee Rear wheel cylinder — removal and refitting ................... ROutine:maintenanCe “ae yee NogeaciMstatlercatinalhiGnetracsersammicrie svansietsatcrs Glove nikeos) tee esl Silt to uip Calwen GlanmOHOOlMULS: cers Mes = ssersks vis oe cup ames Sale [EYE ES DEVTATE aes RS So es hemo eee Ono orcas icra Powel-atia Oallioint TetaimAON MUG wits: fam enn coda e mere wre cee Mepener Lower arm balljoint mounting plate nuts ... 2.2.6.2... eee ee eee POWESTAANINPOMENIVOUIIUE: ace Peney rere ciate fe tens yen tee meee sr Lower annirear pivobclamp) boltS S222 25. Sa cee ee ee Oh Soe

Powenannmouning plate bolts: j.ciwtie 2s artes eee Cee oe Anti-roll bar fasteners: AGU EI CINGHANNAIS. LON ees ere cee aa al i cache ee enor Connecting link-to-lower arm nutS ............06 eee bee ee ees GOnmecema lk=tO-Dasl MUS. a ccmme cacricnas oats cheers cuesere= wie Geis Rear suspension Strut top mounting nuts: Mi anGieany tre MROGCIS wet. ses © oie sicits ee yes sain eee ol Late (September 1988 on) T72 models .........5.00 eee eee eee Strut piston rod nut: Adjustable sianipliG ms arta sry wieneeiottlera =< rae ees ese ele te hie eve eee eee ees secre eee ..0. Non-adjustable damping .........a oD nee = cis ees SimiechAnGiiur we mere eietee Sans ecece ence nee eee.:... Strut bottom bracket mounting bolts ...... Rear hub bearing nut: tee ete eens To preload bearings only ... 2.2.2.2 cece eee nee Wie oowlo ii sca ee Seicict- oie con ates ee NommaliseitiitG eseen eens ....6 ++. Trailing link mountings (front and rear) ..... eens ..ee pne ee rete Transverse link pivot bolt nuts .........Rear (adjustable) transverse link adjuster locknuts ........--...+---

ayes ee i ee ces ee ee GrOSSIneMmiDermMOUNHMO MUS Ae cc ccm Anti-roll bar fasteners: eens sees esree Connecting link-to-body clamp bolts .....-..-. eee ee eee eee ee eee ..--- 6... Connecting link retaining nut... eee se sees eee. ...6. Bar-to-connecting link clamp bolts .... ee nes ee ee 2... mene Bar-to-strut bottom bracket bolts’...

59 to 78

112 to 124 235 to 314 71 to 86 76 to 109 88 to 118 118 to 147 118 to 147

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31 to 42 42 to 52

23 to 31 31 to 38

69 59 69 59

51 to 65

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88 78 127 78

25 to 34 9 to 12 88 to 108 88 to 118 78 to 98 88 to 108 31 to 42 16 to 22 31 to 42

eee eee ees .-6s sees eee Steering gear mounting clamp bolts ...... .ees cere eee 6.. 2see Track rod and inner balljoint assembly ... 62ete ees see eee eee-62s... Track rod outer balljoint locknut ... Track rod outer balljoint retaining nut ate ole inlets 4 Stage din miecnriy Riad ee teehee Re im asia mialata « ls a shiek. tai Seo SIAOG. nein a Cee

12 to 16 29 to 32.5

43.5 to 57.5 51 to 93.5

AC OOo 18.5 to 25 6.5 to 9

65 to 80 65 to 87

byl15)10) 72 65 to 80 Zoo oil

12 to 16 23 to 31

59 to 78

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98 to 118

72 to 87

29 to 39

21 to 29

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3.4 to 4.4

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87 to 108 87 to 108

31 to 42 16 to 22 39 to 44

Roadwheels SOACWHOCIILILS meme

65 to 87

24 73 78 37

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29 97 98 46

27 to 34

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