Haynes Mitsubishi 1983 thru 1993 Automotive Repair Manual 1563920913, 9781563920912

Citation preview

5

MITSUBISHI Cordia Tredia Precis Mirage •= Galant 1983 thru 1993 am four-cyllnder models

^Hayneji)

1669

Automotive Repair IManual

Digitized by the Internet Archive in

2011

http://www.archive.org/details/mitsubishifwdmodOOwarr

Z—

Mitsubishi F WD Models

Automotive Repair

Manual by Larry Warren and John H Haynes Member

of the Guild of

Motoring Writers

Models covered: Mitsubishi Galant, Cordia, Tredia, Precis

and Mirage

1983 through 1990 Does not cover V6 models or all-wheel drive

(8W5 -

1669)

A /Un'CMCTlVli /«:

1/

II

'>n«a

Toe wear

•

Overinflation

• Measure and

Lack

of rotation

• Rotate

or caster

• Repair or replace axle and suspen-

Malfunctioning

• Repair

Incorrect

adjust pressure.

camber

sion parts. tires.

suspension

or replace

suspension

Unbalanced wheel

• Balance

Out-of-round

• Turn

parts.

or

replace. or replace.

brake drum

Lack of

Center wear

rotation

Uneven wear

5.3 This chart will help you determine the condition of the tires, the probable cause(s) of abnormal wear and the corrective action necessary

• Rotate

tires.

Chapter

If a tire loses air on a steady check the valve core first to make sure it's snug (special inexpensive wrenches are commonly available at

5.4a

basis,

auto parts stores)

6.2 left

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

5.8 To extend the life of the tires, check the air pressure at least once a week with an accurate gauge (don't

5.4b If the valve core is tight, raise the corner of the vehicle with the low tire and spray a soapy water solution onto the tread as the tire is turned slowly leaks will cause small bubbles to appear

The power steering fluid filler cap/dipstick is located on the side of the engine compartment - unscrew the cap to check the dipstick and/or add fluid

may have embedded itself in the tire or for a "plug" may have begun to leak (radial tire punctures are repaired with a plug

forget the spare!)

The power steering fluid level should be kept between the MIN and MAX lines on the dipstick

Don't forget to keep the spare

tread for an object that

9

that

(refer to

a puncture). If a puncture is suspected, it can be easily by spraying a solution of soapy water onto the suspected area (see illustration). The soapy solution will bubble if there's a leak. Unless the puncture is unusually large, a tire shop or service station can usually

-11

1

tire

your owner's manual or the

inflated to the specified

tire

pressure

sidewall).

that's installed in

verified

repair the

Carefully inspect the inner sidewall of

fluid.

Power steering

fluid level

check

tire.

each tire for evidence of brake you see any, inspect the brakes immediately. Correct air pressure adds miles to the lifespan of the tires, improves 6 mileage and enhances overall ride quality. Tire pressure cannot be accurately estimated by looking at a tire, especially if it's a radial. A tire pressure gauge is essential. Keep an accurate gauge in the vehicle. The pressure gauges attached to the nozzles of air hoses at gas stations are often inac5

6

If

Refer to illustrations 6.2 and 6.6 Warning The electric cooling fan can activate at any time, even when the :

ignition is in the Off position.

cable 1

when working

in

Unlike manual steering, the

which may, over a period 2

Disconnect the fan motor or negative battery

the vicinity of the fan.

The fluid

power steering system

relies

on

fluid

of time, require replenishing.

reservoir for the

power steering pump is located on the inner

fender panel near the front of the engine (see illustration).

curate.

Always check tire pressure when the tires are cold. Cold, in this case, not been driven over a mile in the three hours preceding a tire pressure check. A pressure rise of four to eight pounds is not uncommon once the tires are warm. Unscrew the valve cap protruding from the wheel or hubcap and push 8 the gauge firmly onto the valve stem (see illustration). Note the reading on the gauge and compare the figure to the recommended tire pressure shown on the label attached to the inside of the glove compartment door. Be sure to reinstall the valve cap to keep dirt and moisture out of the valve stem mechanism. Check all four tires and, necessary, add enough air to bring them up to the recommended pressure.

For the check, the front wheels should be pointed straight ahead and

7

3

means the vehicle has

the engine should be

if

4

Use a clean rag

cap. This

will

off.

to

wipe

off

the reservoir cap and the area around the

help prevent any foreign matter from entering the reservoir

during the check.

5 6

Remove

the cap and note the dipstick attached to

it.

Wipe off the fluid with a clean rag, reinsert the dipstick, then withdraw and read the fluid level. The level should be between the MIN and MAX marks (see illustration). Never allow the fluid level to drop below the MIN

it

mark. 7 If additional

fluid is required,

pour the specified type directly

into the

'IMKJHSiil.

1

-12

Chapter

The automatic transaxle

7.4

the battery (view

reservoir, using

8

If

a funnel

to

is

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

fluid dipstick (arrow) Is

Check the fluid with the transaxle at normal operating temperature - the level should be kept in the HOT range (between the two lines)

located near

7.6

from underneath the vehicle)

prevent

spills.

the reservoir requires frequent

fluid additions, all

power steering

hoses, hose connections and the power steering pump should be carefully

checked

for leaks.

Automatic transaxle

7

fluid level

check

Refer to illustrations 7.4 and 7.6 Warning The electric cooling fan can activate at any time, even wtien the :

ignition is in the Off position.

Disconnect the fan motor or negative battery

when working in the vicinity of the fan. 1 The level of the automatic transaxle fluid should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and transaxle damage. 2 The transaxle fluid level should only be checked when the engine is at normal operating temperature. Caution: If the vehicle has just been driven for a long time at high speed or in city traffic in hot weather, or if it has cable

been pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level reading cannot be obtained. Allow the fluid to cool down for about 30 minutes. Park on level ground, apply the parking brake and start the engine. 3 While the engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and move the selector lever through all the gear ranges, beginning and ending in Park. 4 With the engine still idling, remove the dipstick (see Illustration). 5 Wipe the fluid off the dipstick with a clean rag and reinsert it until the cap seats. Pull the dipstick out again. The fluid level should be in the HOT range (see illustration). If the level is at the low side of the range, add the specified automatic transmission fluid through the dipstick tube with a funnel. 7 Add the fluid a little at a time and keep checking the level until it's cor-

6

8.3

rect.

The

8 If if

condition of the fluid should also be checked along with the level.

the fluid at the end of the dipstick it

smells burned, the

fluid

is black or a dark reddishbrown color, or should be changed (Section 33). If you're in

doubt about the condition of the fluid, purchase some new pare the two for color and odor.

fluid

1

and com-

2 3

8

Engine

oil

and

filter

4

change

5 Refer

to illustrations 8.3. 8.9, 8.

14

and

8.

18

1 Frequent oil changes are the most important preventive maintenance procedures that can be done by the home mechanic. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine

6

These tools are required when changing the engine oil and filter

Drain pan - It should be prevent spills

fairly

shallow

in

depth, but wide to

Rubber gloves - When removing the drain plug and filter, you will get oil on your hands (the gloves will prevent burns) Breaker bar - Sometimes the oil drain plug is tight and a long breaker bar is needed to loosen it Socket - To be used with the breaker bar or a ratchet (must be the correct size to fit the drain plug - six-point preferred) Filter wrench - This is a metal band-type wrench, which requires clearance around the filter to be effective Filter wrench - This type fits on the bottom of the filter and can be turned with a ratchet or breaker bar (different size wrenches are available for different types of filters)

wear.

2 Although some sources recommend oil filter changes every other oil change, a new filter should be installed every time the oil is changed.

3 this

Gather together all necessary tools and materials before beginning procedure (see illustration).

4 3 5 6 7 8

Chapter

1

Use the proper size box-end wrench or six-point socket remove the oil drain plug to avoid rounding it off

8.9

1-13

Tune-up and routine maintenance

8.14

to

special

The oil filter is usually on very tight and will require a wrench for removal - DO NOT use the wrench to tighten the

new

filter

You should have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy to mop spills. Access to the underside of the vehicle is greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps or supported by jackstands. Warning: Do not work under a vehicle which is supported only by 4

up any

a bumper, hydraulic or scissors-type jack. If this is your first oil change, get under the vehicle and familiarize yourself with the locations of the oil drain plug and the oil filter. The engine 5

and exhaust components will be warm during the actual work, so note how when working under the vehicle.

they are situated to avoid touching them

Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. If the new oil or any tools are needed, use this warm-up time to gather everything neces6

sary for the job. Refer to

Recommended lubricants and fluids at the begin-

ning of this Chapter for the type of

With the engine

7

built-up sludge will

oil

oil

required.

warm (warm engine

be removed with

It),

drain better and more and support the vehicle.

oil will

raise

Make sure It's safely supported! Move all necessary tools, rags and newspapers under the vehicle. Set the drain pan under the drain plug. Keep In mind that the oil will initially flow from the pan with some force; position the pan accordingly. 8

Being careful not to touch any of the hot exhaust components, use a wrench to remove the drain plug near the bottom of the oil pan (see illustration). Depending on how hot the oil is, you may want to wear gloves while unscrewing the plug the final few turns. 1 Allow the old oil to drain into the pan. It may be necessary to move the pan as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 11 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag. Small metal particles may cling to the plug and would immediately con-

8.18

Lubricate the

oil filter

gasket with clean engine on the engine

oil

before

installing the filter

9

taminate the

new

oil.

Clean the area around the drain plug opening and reinstall the plug. it securely with the wrench. If a torque wrench is available, use it to

12

tighten the plug.

Move

1

the drain pan into position under the

oil filter.

Use the filter wrench to loosen the oil filter (see illustration). Chain or metal band filter wrenches may distort the filter canister, but doesn't mat1

It

be discarded anyway. Completely unscrew the old filter. Be careful;

ter since the filter will 1

oil

inside the

1

filter

into the drain

it's full

of

oil.

Empty the

pan.

Compare the old filter with the new one to make sure they're the same

type. 1

the

22

Use a clean rag to remove all oil, mounts to the engine.

dirt

and sludge from the area where

new oil to circulate. Run the engine for only about a minute and then shut it off. Immediate-

gine and allow the

24

Tighten

Move

to the engine compartment and locate the oil filler cap. Pour the fresh oil through the filler opening into the engine. A funnel should be used to prevent spills. 23 Pour four quarts of fresh oil into the engine. Wait a few minutes to allow the oil to drain into the pan, then check the level on the oil dipstick (see Section 4 If necessary). If the oil level is above the MIN mark, start the en-

21

ly look under the vehicle and check for leaks at the oil pan drain plug and around the oil filter. If either is leaking, tighten with a bit more force. 25 With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick and add more oil as necessary. 26 During the first few trips after an oil change, make it a point to check frequently for leaks and proper oil level. 27 The old oil drained from the engine cannot be reused in its present state and should be disposed of. Oil reclamation centers, auto repair shops and gas stations will normally accept the oil, which can be refined and used again. After the oil has cooled it can be drained into a container (capped plastic jugs, topped bottles, milk cartons, etc.) for transport to a

disposal

site.

oil filter

1 Apply a light coat of clean oil to the rubber gasket on the new oil filter (see illustration). 19 Attach the new filter to the engine, following the tightening directions

on the filter canister or packing box. Most filter manufacturers recommend against using a wrench due to the possibility of overtightening the filter and damaging the seal. 20 Remove all tools, rags, etc. from under the vehicle, being careful not

9

Windshield wiper blade inspection and replacement

printed

to spill the

oil in

the drain pan, then lower the vehicle.

1

The windshield wiper and blade assembly should be Inspected peridamage, loose components and cracked or worn blade ele-

odically for

ments.

2

Road film can

build

up on the wiper blades and

affect their efficiency.

-14

1

9.5

Lift

Chapter

up on the release

lever

and

1

slide the blade

Tune-up and routine maintenance

assembly pin

out of the arm

Use a small screwdriver

9.6

to pry the lock

up and over the end

of the blade insert, then slide the insert out of the wiper arm, away,;

from the lock

9.8

Press the retaining tab

down and

9.9b

in,

out of the hook

then slide the wiper assembly the end of the wiper arm

9.9a

in

pliers to pull the two support rods out of the blade element

To check the clutch pedal freeplay, measure the distance between the natural resting place of the pedal and the point at which you encounter resistance

With the rods out, it's an easy job to remove the element from the frame

so they should be washed regularly with a mild detergent solution. 3 The action of the wiping mechanism can loosen bolts, nuts and fasteners, so they should be checked and tightened, as necessary, at the

Use needle-nose

10.1

same

time the wiper blades are checked.

4

the wiper blade elements are cracked, worn or warped, or no longer

If

clean adequately, they should be replaced with

new

ones.

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

-15

Adjust the clutch pedal freeplay by turning the cable adjusting nut until the specified clearance (C) is achieved

10.2

Early Refer

models

to illustrations 9.5

and 9.6

arm assembly away from the glass for clearance, lift up on the release lever and detach the blade assembly from the arm (see illustra-

5

Lift

the

tion).

6

Pry the metal lock on the end of the wiper arm up with a small screwit clears the metal tab on the end of the insert, then slide the

driver until insert

7

away from the lock, out of the arm (see illustration). new insert into place until the hole in the end snaps over

11.1

Face shield/safety goggles - When removing corrosion with a brush, the acidic particles can easily fly up into

1

the tab.

your eyes

Later models Refer 8

and 9.9b wiper blade/arm away from

Pull the

2 Baking soda - A

9.9a

to illustrations 9.8,

the glass, depress the retaining in

the

With the rods removed, slide the element out of the wiper frame

Slide the

new element

will

cable clamps

Treated felt washers - Placing one of these on each post, under the cable clamps, will help prevent corrosion Puller - Sometimes the cable clamps are very difficult to pull off the posts, even after the nut/bolt has been completely loosened. This tool pulls the clamp straight up and off the post without damage. Battery post/cable cleaner - Here is another cleaning tool which is a slightly different version of number 4 above, but it

5

then insert the rods to

into place in the frame,

the battery posts

Battery post/cable cleaner - This wire brush cleaning tool will remove all traces of corrosion from the battery posts and

4

(see illustration). 1

soda and water can be

help prevent corrosion

ers to pull the two metal support rods out of the rubber element (see illustration).

solution of baking

used to neutralize corrosion Petroleum jelly - A layer of this on

3

arm (see illustration). Bend the end of the element out of the way and use needle-nose pli-

tab and slide the assembly out of the hook

9

Tools and materials required for battery maintenance

Slide the

directly

lock

10

it

place.

6

Clutch pedal freeplay check and adjustment (cable-operated clutch)

Refer 1

in

to illustrations 10.

1

and 10.2

Push down on the clutch pedal and use a small it

illustration). ter's

2

it

Working

in

does the same thing Rubber gloves - Another safety item

8 steel ruler to

moves freely before the clutch resistance The freeplay should be within the limits listed in isn't, must be adjusted. Specifications, if

the distance that

7

measure

is felt

this

servicing the battery;

to

consider

remember that's acid inside

when the battery!

(see

Chap-

it

the engine compartment, turn the outer cable adjusting nut

(located at the point where the cable enters the bulkhead) until the clearance between the nut and insulator projection listed in the Specifications is

achieved (see illustration). Recheck the freeplay. Repeat the adjustment as necessary. 3

tually dilute sulfuric acid, in

your eyes.

It

which

will also ruin

will cause injury if splashed on

clothes and painted surfaces.

the battery cables, always detach the negative cable

your skin or

When removing

first

and hook

it

up

last!

Check and maintenance Battery maintenance is an important procedure which will help ensure you aren't stranded because of a dead battery. Several tools are required for this procedure (see illustration). 2 When checking/servicing the battery, always turn the engine and all 1

that

11

Battery check, maintenance and charging

accessories

and 11.7c Warning: Certain precautions must be followed when checking and servRefer

to illustrations 11.1, 11.6, 11.7a, 11.7b

Hydrogen gas, which is highly flammable, is always prescells, so keep lighted tobacco and all other open flames and sparks away from the battery. The electrolyte inside the battery is acicing the battery.

ent in the battery

off.

A sealed (sometimes called maintenance-free), battery is standard 3 equipment on these vehicles. The cell caps cannot be removed, no electrolyte checks are required and water cannot be added to the cells. However, a standard aftermarket battery has been installed, the following maintenance procedure can be used. if

-16

1

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

^•3l^:i^

11 .6 Use a wrench to check the tightness of the battery cable bolts;

when removing corroded

bolts,

it

11 .7a

When cleaning the cable corrosion must be removed (the inside of the clamp is tapered to match the taper on the post, so don't remove too much material)

Battery terminal corrosion

11 .7b

clamps,

may

be necessary to use special battery pliers

f1 ,

"^

all

SMALL CRACKS

GREASE

K ALWAYS CHECK GLAZED

of the belt.

fe^

4

Remove the caps and check the electrolyte (water) level in each of the

battery cells (see Section 4). split-ring indicator in

low,

12.3a Here are some of the more common problems associated with drivebelts (check the belts very carefully to prevent an untimely breakdown)

Regardless of the type of tool used on the battery posts, a clean, shiny surface should be the result

11 .7c

the underside

add

distilled

each

It

must be above the plates. There's usually a

cell to indicate

the correct level.

wateronly, then reinstall the

cell

If

the level

is

caps. Caution: Overfill-

may cause electrolyte to spill over during periods of tieavy causing corrosion and damage to nearby components. 5 The external condition of the battery should be checked periodically. Look for damage such as a cracked case. Check the tightness of the battery cable bolts (see illustration) to en6 sure good electrical connections. Inspect the entire length of each cable, looking for cracked or abraded insulation and frayed conductors. ing the cells ctiarging,

7

If

corrosion (visible as white,

fluffy

deposits) (see illustration)

is

evi-

remove the cables from the terminals, clean them with a battery brush and reinstall them (see illustrations). Corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly or grease to the terminals. 8 Make sure the battery carrier is in good condition and the hold-down clamp is tight, if the battery is removed (see Chapter 5 for the removal and installation procedure), make sure that no parts remain in the bottom of the

dent,

carrier

when

it's

reinstalled.

1

2.3b

Check V-ribbed

belts for signs of

belt looks

wear

worn, replace

like

these -

if

the

it

When reinstalling the hold-down clamp, don't

overtighten the nuts.

Corrosion on the carrier, battery case and surrounding areas can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Apply the mixture with a

9

small brush,

let

it

work, then rinse

it

off

with plenty of clean water.

10 Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged by corrosion should be coated with a zinc-based primer, then painted.

Charging Remove all of the cell caps (if equipped) and cover the holes with a clean cloth to prevent spattering electrolyte. Disconnect the negative battery cable and hook the battery charger leads to the battery posts (positive 1 1

4 2 3

.

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

-17

Alternator

BELT DEFLECTION

RULER

1

Water pump

brace boll

pulley

Alternator pulley Alternator

support bolt

MAKE SURE RULER IS PERPENDICULAR TO STRAIGHT EDGE

Crankshaft pulley

Measuring drivebelt deflection with a straightedge and ruler

12.4

to positive,

negative to negative), then plug

in

the charger.

Make sure

1

it

1

2 volts

if

the alternator to adjust the drivebelt tension

is

has a selector switch. If you're using a charger with a rate higher than two amps, check the 1 battery regularly during charging to make sure it doesn't overheat. If you're using a trickle charger, you can safely let the battery charge overnight after you've checked it regularly for the first couple of hours. If the battery has removeable cell caps, measure the specific gravity 1 with a hydrometer every hour during the last few hours of the charging cycle. Hydrometers are available inexpensively from auto parts stores follow the instructions that come with the hydrometer. Consider the battery charged when there's no change in the specific gravity reading for two set at

Move

2.6

it

Belt tension adjuster

Adjust

hours and the electrolyte in the cells is gassing (bubbling) freely. The spegravity reading from each cell should be very close to the others. If not,

cific

the battery probably has a bad cell(s).

Some batteries with sealed tops have built-in

hydrometers on the top charge by the color displayed in the hydrometer window. Normally, a bright-colored hydrometer indicates a full charge and a dark hydrometer indicates the battery still needs charging. Check the battery manufacturer's instructions to be sure you know what the colors 1

that indicate the state of

Loosen the lock

12.7

bolt

and turn the adjusting

bolt to tighten

or loosen the drivebelt

mean. 15

If

the battery has a sealed top

hook up a charge.

A

digital

fully

and no

built-in

hydrometer, you can

voltmeter across the battery terminals to check the

charged battery should read

1

2.6 volts or higher.

means you will have to twist the belt to check the underside. Use your fingers to feel the belt where you can't see it. If any of the above conditions are evident, replace the belt (go to Step 8). 4 The tightness of each belt is checked by pushing on at a distance halfway between the pulleys (see illustration). Apply about 1 pounds of force with your thumb and see how much the belt moves down (deflects) Refer to the Specifications listed in this Chapter for the amount of deflection allowed in each belt. the belt should be inspected, which

it

Drivebelt check, adjustment

12

Refer to

and replacement

illustrations 12.3a, 12.3b, 12.4, 12.6, 12.7

and 12.10

5

Check 1

The

drivebelts are either V-belts or V-ribbed belts.

Sometimes reend of the en-

left

The good condition and proper adjustment of the belts is critical to Because of their composition and the high stresses to which they are subjected, drivebelts stretch and deteriorate as they get older. They must therefore be periodically inspected. The number of belts used on a particular vehicle depends on the ac2 cessories installed. One belt transmits power from the crankshaft to the alternator and water pump. The air conditioning compressor and power gine.

the operation of the engine.

pumps

are driven by other belts.

off, open the hood and locate the drivebelts at the left end of the engine. With a flashlight, check each belt: On V-belts, check for cracks and separation of the belt plies (see illustration). On V-ribbed belts, check for separation of the adhesive rubber on both sides of the core, core separation from the belt side and a severed core. Also on Vribbed belts, check for separation of the ribs from the adhesive rubber, cracking or separation of the ribs, and torn or worn ribs or cracks in the inner ridges of the ribs (see illustration). On both belt types, check for fraying and glazing, which gives the belt a shiny appearance. Both sides of

3

If

adjustment

is

necessary,

it

is

done by moving the belt-driven acces-

sory on the bracket.

ferred to as "fan" belts, the drivebelts are located at the

steering

Adjustment

With the engine

On some components, a belt must be adjusted, loosen the adjustment (brace) bolt that secures the component to the slotted bracket and pivot the component (away from the engine block to tighten the belt, toward the block to loosen the belt) (see illustration). It's helpful to lever the component or power steering pump with a large prybar when adjusting the belt because the prybar enables you to precisely position the component until the adjuster bolt is tightened. Be very careful not to damage the housing of the component, particularly the aluminum housing of the alternator. Recheck the belt tension using the above method. On some components, loosen the lock bolt. Turn the adjusting bolt to 7 6

if

tension the

belt,

then retighten the lock bolt (see illustration).

Replacement 8

To replace a

ment, but

some

slip

belt, follow

the belt

belts, you'll

off

have

the

above procedures

for drivebelt adjust-

the crankshaft pulley and remove

to

remove other

belts to get at the

it.

To replace

one you're

re-

because of the way the belts are arranged on the crankshaft pulley. Because of this and because belts tend to wear out more or less together, is a good idea to replace all belts at the same time. Mark each placing

it

2 3 6

1

1

1

-18

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

ALWAYS CHECK

hose

for

chafed or burned areas that may cause an untimely

and

WRONG

CORRECT When

12.10

WRONG

installing a V-ribbed belt, mal2

After adjusting the cable, be sure the throttle lever contacts the ISC

JO

notor.

Ilode/s with cruise control ^ordia

and Tredia

off

hrottle lever !4 55 >6 57

the cable adjusting nuts and detach the cable from the

and bracket (see

illustration).

Detach the cable from the pedal (see illustration 1 6.4). Detach the cable from the firewall (see illustration 16.5). From the engine compartment, pull the cable through the firewall. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure there are no sharp

>ends

in

the cable.

idling,

use the adjusting nuts

to

remove the freeplay

Tighten the adjusting nuts against each other.

Rev the engine

to

be sure a binding condition

is

not present.

Actuator cable 31 Detach the cable from the throttle lever. 32 Detach the cable from the actuator and remove the cable. is

Installation

the reverse of removal. After installation, adjust the cable freeplay as

described beginning with the next Step. 33 With the engine idling, use the adjusting nuts from the cable.

to

remove the freeplay

Tighten the adjusting nuts against each other.

Rev the engine

to

be sure a binding condition

is

not present.

Galant

iCcelerator pedal cable

Back

29 30

34 35

^efer to illustration 16.23

>3

4-19

Fuel and exhaust systems

Refer

to illustration

Removal and

16.37

installation

Note This procedure applies to both accelerator cables AandB in illustra:

tion 16.37.

36 Remove the cover from the speed control actuator. 37 Loosen the throttle cable adjusting nut (of the cable being replaced) and lift the cable housing off the bracket (see illustration).

Throttle cable details for Cordia and Tredia with cruise control. Adjustment nuts are shown by the arrows

16.23

oaJVH

1

6.37

Throttle cable details

for Galant with cruise control 1

A

Cruise control actuator

3

Accelerator pedal

4

Selector

5 6

Intermediate

7 8 9

«A3^H

Accelerator cable

2

Intermediate link link

B A

Throttle lever

Adjusting bolts

Stopper

10

Accelerator cable

11

Adjusting nut A

12

Lock nut

B

4-20

1

Chapter 4

—

Accelerator cable A

g^

\ Adjusting'

6.56

Fuel and exhaust systems

Throttle cable Intermediate link details for Mirage

1

6.66

MPI models.

Front hanger 17.1

38 39

If

you're not planning to service the exhaust system - inspect and, replace the rubber hangers (Precis shown)

throttle

cable from the intermediate

if

52

link.

replacing the cable to the accelerator pedal, detach the cable from

the pedal. Detach the throttle cable guide from the firewall (see illustration

1

6.4).

From outside the vehicle,

pull

the throttle cable through the fire-

40

If

replacing the cable to the throttle body,

near the

throttle

remove the

retaining bolts

body, detach the cable from the throttle lever and remove

the cable.

41

Installation

is

the reverse of removal. Don't leave any sharp bends

in

the cable.

Adjustment 42 Run the engine until reaches normal operating temperature. Verify necessary (see Chapter 1 ). Turn off the idle speed is correct and adjust it

it if

the engine.

Depress the accelerator pedal and check to be sure the throttle lever fully open to fully closed. 44 Remove any sharp bends from the accelerator cable. 45 Check the arrangement and placement of the cable. 46 With the cover of the speed control actuator removed, loosen the adjustment nuts and locknuts to free the intermediate links. 47 Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position for fifteen seconds (to actuate the ISC motor). 48 With intermediate link "A" (pedal cable) against the stopper (see illustration 16.37), use adjusting nut "A" to adjust the cable so intermediate link "A" just begins to move then, back off adjusting nut "A two turns. 49 Using adjusting nut "B", tighten the cable so the lever on intermediate link "B" just contacts the lever on intermediate link "A". 50 Loosen the two bolts retaining the cable near the throttle body. 51 Adjust the cable to remove the remainder of the slack from 43

moves smoothly from

"

it.

Tighten the intermediate

link

if

warranted,

locknuts and the two bolts retaining the

cable near the throttle body.

53

After adjusting the cable,

be sure the

throttle lever

contacts the ISO

motor.

54

wall.

.

Rear hanger

Middle hanger

Anytime you raise the vehicle - even

Detach the

Use the adjusting bolts to adjust the f reeplay for the throttle lever cable on Mirage MPI models

Install

the cover of the speed control actuator.

Mirage (MPI) Refer

to illustrations

16.56

and 16.66

Accelerator pedal cable removal and installation 55 Detach the cable housing from the engine. 56 Detach the cable from the intermediate link (see illustration). 57 Detach the cable from the firewall (see illustration 16.5). 58 Detach the cable from the accelerator pedal (see illustration 1 6.4) 59 Pull the cable through the firewall from the engine compartment. 60 Installation is the reverse of removal. After installation, be sure nc sharp bends are in the cable and that a binding condition is not presenti Throttle lever cable removal 61

62 63 64

and

installation

Detach the cable housing from the engine. Detach the cable from the intermediate link Detach the cable from the throttle lever and remove Installation

is

it.

the reverse of removal.

Adjustment 65 66

Remove

the air cleaner Using the adjusting bolts (see illustration), adjust the cable

67

to the

a slight amount of freeplay at the lever. After adjusting the cable to the throttle lever, be sure the lever touches

throttle lever

so there

is

the idle position switch.

68 1

With the intermediate

link

against the stopper (see illustratior

6.56), loosen the adjusting bolt for the cable to the accelerator pedal anc

4-21

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

quiet.

Look for any damaged or bent

parts,

open seams,

holes, loose con-

nections, excessive corrosion or other defects which could allow exhaust

fumes

to enter the vehicle. Deteriorated exhaust system components should not be repaired; they should be replaced with new parts. If the exhaust system components are extremely corroded or rusted 3 together, welding equipment will probably be required to remove them. The convenient way to accomplish this is to have a muffler repair shop re-

move the corroded sections with a cutting torch. If, however, you want to save money by doing it yourself (and you don't have a welding outfit with a cutting torch), simply cut off the old components with a hacksaw. If you have compressed air, special pneumatic cutting chisels can also be used. If you do decide to tackle the job at home, be sure to wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from metal chips and work gloves to protect your hands. Here are some simple guidelines to follow when repairing the exhaust 4 system: a)

17.4 Exhaust system bolts and nuts, particularly those on the exhaust manifold and catalytic converters, can be very difficult to loosen - spraying them with a penetrant will free up the threads

b)

c)

remove all the freeplay from the cable. 69 Be sure to check that the throttle valve fully opens and closes with the use 70

17

d)

fasteners during reassembly.

of the accelerator pedal. Install

Be sure to allow sufficient clearance between newly installed parts and all points on the underbody to avoid overheating the floor pan and possibly damaging the interior carpet and insulation. Pay particularly close attention to the catalytic converter and heat shield. 5 To replace the front catalytic converter refer to Chapter 2A and remove the exhaust manifold and converter as an assembly. Then unbolt the

the air cleaner.

e)

Exhaust system servicing - general information

Refer to illustrations

1 7. 1

Work from the back to the front when removing exhaust system components. Apply penetrating oil to the exhaust system component fasteners (see illustration) to make them easier to remove. Use new gaskets, hangers and clamps when installing exhaust systems components. Apply anti-seize compound to the threads of all exhaust system

and

1

converter from the manifold. Installation

7.4

is

the reverse of removal.

Warn ing Inspection and repair of extiaust system components should be :

done only after enough time has elapsed after driving the vehicle to allow the system components to cool completely. A Iso, when working under the vehicle, make sure it is securely supported on jackstands.

The exhaust system consists of the exhaust manifold(s), the catalytic and all connecting pipes, brackets, hangers and clamps. The exhaust system is attached to the body with mounting brackets and rubber hangers (see illustration). any of the parts are improperly installed, excessive noise and vibration will be trans1

1

8

Refer

mitted to the body.

2

Conduct regular inspections of the exhaust system to keep

to illustration

18.2

A turbocharger system is used to increase power. As increased power

converter, the muffler, the tailpipe

If

Turbocharger - general information

is

is opened, more air/fuel mixture chambers by the turbocharger.

required and the throttle

the combustion

is

forced into

A turbine wheel in the turbocharger is driven by the exhaust stream and connected by a shaft to drive a compressor wheel (fan) to pressurize the intake air stream (see illustration). The amount of pressurized air alis

it

safe and

18.2

OSLlfrff

Details of the turbocharger

system

1 2

4-22 lowed

into the

Chapter 4 engine

is

Fuel and exhaust systems

controlled by an exhaust by-pass valve (waste-

gate).

6 Look for evidence of wheel-to-housing contact. Be sure the shaft rotates freely. Rotating stiffness could indicate the' 7 presence of sludged oil or coking (hardened oil deposits) from overheating.

1

8

Turbocharger - inspection

9

Push

in

on one of the shaft wheels while turning

it.

Be sure the wheels

turn freely without contacting the housings.

Caution Operation of the turbocharger without all the ducts and filters installed can result in personal injury and/or allow foreign objects to damage the wheel blades.

9

:

1 1 1

Note The turbocharger is not serviceable and must be replaced as a unit.

Be sure the exhaust manifold has no loose connections or cracks. Check the oil drain line for any restrictions. Visually inspect the actuator and wastegate linkage for damage. Check the hose to the wastegate.

:

Every turbocharger has

1

its

own

noise level

when

operating.

If

the

noise level changes, suspect a problem. If

sound of the turbocharger goes up and down in pitch: Check for heavy dirt build up in the compressor housing and on the compressor wheel. b) Check for an air inlet restriction.

the

20

Turbocharger - removal and installation

a)

1

a high pitch or whistling: c) Look for an inlet air or exhaust gas leak. 2 With the engine off and the turbocharger stopped, make a visual inspection of the turbocharger and components. Check for loose duct connections from the air cleaner to the turbo3

4

charger.

6

If

4 5

the noise level

is

Be sure the duct from the turbocharger-to-intake system is not loose. Visually check the wheels of the turbocharger for damage from for-

eign objects.

2 3 5

Remove

the heat protectors (see illustration 18.2). Disconnect the oil return pipe from the oil pan. Remove the oil pipe from the turbocharger and the oil filter bracket. Remove the air intake pipe connecting bolt. Disconnect the remaining hoses and electrical connectors from the

turbocharger.

Remove the turbocharger mounting

nuts and

remove the turbochar-

ger assembly from the exhaust manifold.

7

Pour clean engine

8

Installation

is

oil

into the turbocharger.

the reverse of removal.

Be sure

to

use a new gasket.

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

systems

Contents Alternator

- removal and

16

installation

- check and replacement 4 Battery check and maintenance See Chapter 1 2 Battery - emergency jump starting Battery - removal and installation 3 Centrifugal advance mechanism - check and component replacement 12 Charging system - check 15 Charging system - general information and precautions 14 Distributor pickup air gap - check and adjustment 13 Distributor - removal and installation 8 Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement See Chapter 1 Battery cables

General information Igniter - replacement

1

10

- check and replacement system - check Ignition system - general information and precautions Ignition timing check and adjustment Pickup coil check and replacement Spark plug replacement Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement Starter motor - testing in vehicle Ignition

- removal and installation - removal and installation Starting system - general information and precautions Vacuum advance unit - check and replacement Voltage regulator/alternator brushes - replacement

Note: The

air

is

applicable only to the models listed below.

to 0.01 5 in

.8L

0.008

to 0.01 5 in

2.0L

0.031

in

1986 1987 and 1988 1

.8L

2.0L

0.008 to 0.01 5

in

Not available 0.008 to 0.015

in

Galant

1985 and 1986 1 987 on Mirage (1985 through 1988 1.5L) Precis (1987 through 1989)

1

See Chapter

1

19 21

0.008

1

See Chapter

20

Cordia and Tredia

1983 1984 and 1985

1

11

Starter solenoid

gap

gap check and adjustment procedure

See Chapter

Starter motor

Specifications

Distributor pickup air

7 6 5

Ignition coil

0.031

in

Not available 0.008 to 0.015 0.031

in

in

18 9 17

5-2

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

systems

Ignition coil Primary resistance Cordia/Tredia

1983 1984 through 1986

1

.04 to

.27

ohms

ohms ohms

1.8L

1.15

2.0L

1

.2

1

1987

ohms ohms

1.8L

1.25

2.0L

1

.2

1988 1.8L

1.13 to 1.37

2.0L Galant

1

1985 and 1986 1987 1988 1989 on

1.2

.32

ohms

0.72 to 0.88 0.77 to 0.95

later

ohms ohms

ohms

Not available

Mirage 1985 through 1988

989 and

1

0.72 to 0.88

SOHC DOHC

1

.08 to

1

1.2

(all)

.6L engine

ohms ohms

ohms

0.77 to 0.95

ohms

1.5L engine

1989 1 990 and

ohms ohms

0.72 to 0.88 0.9 to

later

1

.2

Precis

1987 1988 1989 1990

Not available 1.1 to 1.3

ohms

Not available 0.72 to 0.88 ohms

Secondary resistance Cordia/Tredia

1983 1984 through 1986

7.10 to 9.60k

.8L

8.35k

2.0L

13.7k

1

ohms

ohms ohms

1987 1.8L

11.0k

2.0L

13.7k

ohms ohms

1988 9.4 to 12.6k

1.8L

2.0L Galant

ohms ohms

11.7 to 15.7k

1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 on

13.7k

ohms

26.0k ohms 10.8 to 13.2k

ohms

Not available

SOHC DOHC

10.3 to 13.9k 10.3 to 13.9k

ohms ohms

Mirage

1985 through 1988 1 989 and 1 990 1 .5L engine; 1 991 and later 1 .5L engine

13.7k 1

989 and

later

1

.6L engine

1

ohms 1 3.9K ohms 29k ohms

0.3 to

20

to

Precis

1987through 1989

11.6to 15.8k

1990and

11.3 to 13.9k

Pickup

later

ohms ohms

coil resistance

Note: The pickup

coil resistance

check

is

applicable only to the models listed below

Cordia and Tredia 1.8L Turbo (1984 through 1988) 2.0L (1986 through 1988) Mirage 1.6L (1985 through 1988)

920 130 920

to to to

1120 ohms 190 ohms 1120 ohms

1

.

Engine

Chapter 5

5-3

systems

electrical

General information

1

The engine electrical systems include all ignition, charging and starting components. Because of their engine-related functions, these components are discussed separately from chassis electrical devices such as the lights, the instruments, etc. (which are included in Chapter 12). Always observe the following precautions when working on the electrical

systems: Be extremely careful

a)

They are

nents.

easily

when servicing engine electrical compodamaged checked, connected or handled it

improperly.

on

b)

Never leave the

c)

d)

engine off. Don't disconnect the battery cables while the engine is running. Maintain correct polarity when connecting a battery cable from

e)

another vehicle during jump starting. Alwayc; jismnnt^ct the nega tive cahip fir.37rf

7.5

6

Ignition

Refer

system - check

to illustration 6.2

Warning Because of ttie very high voltage generated by the ignition system, extreme care should be taken when this check is performed. :

1

If

Terminal identification for the primary circuit of the 1990 DIS coil

the engine turns over but won't

from any spark plug and attach

it

to

start,

disconnect the spark plug wire

a calibrated

ignition tester (available at

On non-DIS models, there's still no spark, the coil-to-cap wire may be bad (check the resistance with an ohmmeter - should be 7000 ohms per foot or less). If a known good wire doesn't make any difference in the test results, the ignition module may be defective. 8

if

it

most auto parts stores). Connect the clip on the 2

tester to a bolt or metal bracket on the engine (see illustration). If you're unable to obtain a calibrated ignition tester, remove the wire from one of the spark plugs and, using an insulated tool, hold the end of the wire about 1/4-inch from a good ground. Crank the engine and watch the end of the tester or spark plug wire to 3 see if bright blue, well-defined sparks occur. If you're not using a calibrated tester, have an assistant crank the engine for you. Warning: Keep clear of drivebelts and other moving engine components that could injure you. If sparks occur, sufficient voltage is reaching the plug to fire it (repeat 4 the check at the remaining plug wires to verify the wires, distributor cap and rotor [if equipped] and other coils [DIS systems] are OK). However, the plugs themselves may be fouled, so remove them and check them as described in Chapter 1 On non-DIS models, if no sparks or intermittent sparks occur, remove 5 the distributor cap and check the cap and rotor as described in Chapter 1 If moisture is present, dry out the cap and rotor, then reinstall the cap. 6 On non-DIS models, if there's still no spark, detach the coil secondary wire from the distributor cap and hook it up to the tester (reattach the plug wire to the spark plug), then repeat the spark check. Again, if you don't have a tester, hold the end of the wire about 1 /4-inch from a good ground. If

sparks occur now, the distributor cap, rotor or plug wire(s)

may be defec-

Ignition coil

- check and replacement

Check Distributorless Ignition

System

Refer

and

to illustrations 7.2, 7.5

(DIS)

7.

Primary circuit (1989) Disconnect the primary wiring connector for the coils. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the coil connector terminals (see illustration) No. 4 and 2 (No. 1 and 4 cylinders). 1

2

Measure the resistance between terminals No. 4 and

no sparks occur, check the wire connections at the coil to make sure they're clean and tight. Check for voltage to the coil. Make any necessary repairs, then repeat the check again. If

1

(No. 2

and 3 cylin-

ders).

3

Compare

the readings to the Specifications at the beginning of this

Chapter. Replace any

coil

if

not to specification.

Primary circuit (1990) Disconnect the primary wiring connector for the coils. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the coil con5 nector terminals (see illustration) No. 3 and 2 (No. 1 and 4 cylinders).

4

Measure the resistance between terminals No. 3 and

tive.

7

7

1

(No. 2

and 3 cylin-

ders).

6

Compare

the readings to the Specifications at the beginning of this

Chapter. Replace any

coil

if

not to specification.

2 4 3 5 7

2 4

1

1

Chapter 5

For No. 1 and No. 4 cylinders

a

Engine

electrical

5-5

systems

® 1

^

; \

--

y ForNo. 2andNo. 3 cylinders 7.7 On the DIS coil, check between the two secondary terminals to check the resistance of the secondary circuit

{Secondary circuit Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the high voltage (secondary) terminals for cylinders the No. 1 and 4 (see illustration). Measure the resistance between the high voltage terminals for cylinders No. 2 and 3. 8

Compare

coil resistance of the

primary circuit (typical

shown)

coil is

if

not to specification.

others

Refer

to illustration 7.

1

9

Detach the cable from the negative terminal

10

Locate the

11

Checking the

the readings to the Specifications at the beginning of this

Chapter. Replace any coil All

7.11

Using an ohmmeter, check the a)

of the battery.

coil.

coil:

Measure the resistance between the nals (see illustration).

resistance listed

in this

positive

and negative termi-

Compare your reading with the primary coil Chapter's Specifications.

Detach the high tension lead from the coil. Measure the resistance between the positive terminal and high tension terminal. Compare your reading with the secondary coil resistance listed in this Chap-

b)

ter's Specifications. 1

If

either of the

fied resistance,

above

tests yield resistance values outside the speci-

replace the

coil.

Replacement

16

Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the Detach the wiring to the coil assembly. Detach the coil assembly from it's mounting. Remove the coil assembly.

1

Installation

1

1 1

is

battery.

8.6 Before removing the distributor, paint or scribe an alignment mark on the edge of the distributor base directly beneath the rotor tip - DO NOT use a lead pencil

the reverse of removal. while the distributor is out of the engine, or the alignment marks

8

Distributor

- removal and

installation

8 Refer to

illustration

will

be use-

less.

8.6

Detach the primary wiring from the

distributor.

Installation

Removal

If the crankshaft has been moved while the distributor is out, the number one piston must be repositioned at TDC. This can be done by feeling for compression pressure at the number one plug hole as the crankshaft is turned. Once compression is felt, align the TDC marks on the drivebelt pulley and the timing cover.

Note:

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. 2 Unplug the coil high tension lead from the distributor cap. 3 Detach the vacuum hose(s) from the advance unit (if equipped). 4 Look for a raised "1 " on the distributor cap. This marks the location for the number one cylinder spark plug wire terminal. If the cap does not have a mark for the number one terminal, locate the number one spark plug and trace the wire back to the terminal on the cap. 5 Remove the distributor cap (see Chapter 1 and turn the engine over until the rotor is pointing toward the number one spark plug terminal (see locating TDC procedure in Chapter 2). 6 Make a mark on the edge of the distributor base directly below the rotor tip and in line with it (see illustration). Also, mark the distributor base and the engine block to ensure that the distributor is installed correctly. 7 Remove the distributor hold-down nut and washer, then pull the distributor straight out to remove it. Caution: DO NOT turn the crankshaft 1

)

9

Insert the distributor into the

the block that

it

was

in

engine

in

exactly the same relationship to

when removed.

1 To mesh the helical gears on the camshaft and the distributor, may be necessary to turn the rotor slightly. Recheck the alignment marks between the distributor base and the block to verify that the distributor is in the same position was in before removal. Also check the rotor to see it's aligned with the mark you made on the edge of the distributor base. it

it

if

1

Loosely

1

Reconnect the

13

Install

1

Reattach the vacuum

install

the nut. electrical leads.

the distributor cap. line(s) to

the advance unit

(if

equipped).

6 5 7

.

5-6

Engine

Chapter 5

electrical

To detach the vacuum unit from the distributor remove the two screws (arrows)

.

.

.

systems

down, detach it from the pin (arrow) on the breaker base and pull it out

then

tilt it

.

.

Replacement 6

I

Pull the rotor off the shaft

(see Chapter

1 ).

7 Remove the vacuum unit mounting screws (see illustration). Remove the vacuum unit link from the pin on the breaker base, 8 detach the vacuum unit (see illustration).

9

Installation

Igniter

1

1

is

the reverse of removal.

- replacement

Refer to the exploded views

12.7a, 12.7b, 12.7c

2 Pickup

coil

on 3

resistance

When

thei

and

procedure (see

for the

illustrationi

12.7d).

installing the igniter,

do not wipe away the conductive greas^

it.

Adjust the

air

gap (see Section

1

3) before reinstalling the distributoi

measuring terminals

11

Pickup

coil

On

Cordia/Tredia 1.8L Turbo (1984 and 1985) and Mirage 1.6L (1985), use the measuring terminals shown to check the resistance of the pickup coil 11.3

Refer

check and replacement

to illustration 11.3

Note: This procedure applies only

1

Reattach the spark plug wires

1

Connect the cable

1

Check

to the

plugs

(if

removed).

to the

models

Cordia/Tredia 1.8L Turbo (1984 1.6L (1985) Remove the distributor cap. Remove the rotor from the distributor. 2

and

listed below.

1985); Mirage

1

to the negative terminal of the battery.

the ignition timing (see Chapter

1

)

and tighten the

distributor

3

hold-down nut securely.

it's

Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance of the pickup coil by probin measuring terminals (see illustration). Compare the results to thi

Chapter's Specifications.

4 9

Vacuum advance

Refer

to illustrations 9.

Check

5

Remove the vacuum

line.

If

line

from the vacuum advance

unit

and plug the

there are two lines, disconnect and plug the outer (furthest from the

distributor) line.

2

Connect a timing

3 4

Attach a

light to

vacuum pump

the vehicle.

to the

coil

if

not within the specifications (see illustrs

Cordia/Tredia 1.8L Turbo (1986 ttirougti 1988); Mirage 1.6L (1986 ttirougii 1988)

7 and 9.8

1

Replace the pickup

tion12.7d).

- check and replacement

unit

advance

The

unit

holds vacuum, the advance plate

timing should gradually advance. in

coil

resistance, detach the distributor primar

ohmmeter to check the resistance between the two lead

(see illustration 12.7c). Compare the reading to the specifications at the front of 6 7 Replace the pickup coil if not within the specifications.

this

chapte

unit.

With the engine running, gradually apply vacuum to the advance while watching the timing marks with the timing light.

5

To check the pickup

wires and use an

If

it

unit

doesn't advance, but the

the distributor

is

binding.

doesn't advance, and the unit does not hold vacuum, replace the

Cordia/Tredia 2.0L (1986 ttirougti 1988)

If

unit.

it

Disconnect the pickup

coil leads (see illustration 12.7b). Using and ohmmeter, check the resistance between the terminals c the pickup coil. 10 Compare the reading to the specification at the beginning c

8 9

Chapter 5 this

Chapter.

11

Replace the pickup

12

Engine

electrical

butor. coil

Centrifugal advance

if

not within the specifications.

mechanism - check

1

line(s)

and 12.7d from vacuum advance

(g)®

12.7a

Connect a timing

3 4

Start the engine.

5 6

to illustrations 12.7a. 12.7b, 12.7c

Detach the vacuum

2

light

according to

it's

manufacturer's instructions.

While watching the timing marks with the use of the timing speed while watching the timing marks advance. The timing should advance smoothly. If

the timing

unit

on the

distri-

7

damage

or binding.

Replace parts as needed (see illustrations).

®

Rotor shaft Spring retainers

1

Breattier

13

2

Cap

14

3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Contact carbon Rotor Cable assembly

15 16 17

Distributor shaft

Ground wire

18

Oil seal

Igniter

19

Dowel pin

20

Packing Housing

Signal rotor

21

O-ring

Advance plate Vacuum advance Vacuum advance

unit (dual-diaphragm type)

22 23

Driven gear

unit (single-diaphragm type)

24

Pin

11

12

raise

does not advance smoothly, check the advance weights,

springs and plate for

Exploded view of the distributor for Cordia and Tredia 2.0L (1984 and 1985), Galant (1985 and 1986), Mirage 1.5L (1985 through 1988) and Precis (1987 through 1989)

10

light,

the engine

and component replacement Refer

5-7

systems

Centrifugal advance springs Centrifugal advance weights

Washer

5-8

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

Pickup

systems

coil

Dust-proof cover for signal generator

Rotor

@r^« Advance Igniter

plate

(may be outside

distributor)

Dust-proof cover for igniter

Vacuum advance

unit

Centrifugal advance weights

Centrifugal advance springs

Signal rotor shaft assembly

12.7b

Exploded view of the distributor

Packing

for Cordia

and Tredia 2.0L (1986 through 1988)

(

I

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

5-9

systems

G^

1

2.7c

Exploded view of the distributor for Cordis and Tredia 1 .8L Turbo through 1988) and Mirage 1.6L (1986 through 1988)

(1

986

Breather

10

Screw

18

Centrifugal advance spring

2

Cap

11

Signal rotor

19

Centrifugal advance weight

3

Contact carbon Rotor

12 13

Screw

20

Spring pin

Pick-up coil

21

Cover

14

Stator

Driven gear O-ring

Seal ring Snap-ring

8 9

Vacuum advance Screw

15 16 17

Rotor shaft

7

22 23 24 25

1

4

5 6

unit

Pin

Spring retainer

Shaft Oil seal

Housing

5-10

Chapter 5

12.7d

Engine

electrical

systems

Exploded view of the distributor for Cordia and Tredia 1.8L Turbo (1984 and 1985) and IMirage 1.6L (1985)

1

2 3

Breather

Cap

12 13

Breaker Plate

Contact carbon Rotor

14

Washer

15

Shaft

Centrifugal

advance springs advance plate Centrifugal advance weights Centrifugal advance base

16

Bearing

Centrifugal

17

Oil seal

18 19

Housing

Signal rotor

20

Spring pin

10

Pickup

21

11

Ignitor

Gear Vacuum

4

5 6 7 8 9

coil

22

O-ring

control

)

.

Chapter 5

Engine

5-11

systems

electrical

tumed to Start, then go oft immediately.

If it remains on. there is a malfunccharging system (see Section 14). Be very careful when making electrical circuit connections to a vehicle

tion in the

equipped with an alternator and note the following: a) When reconnecting wires to the alternator from the

battery,

be sure

to note the polarity.

b)

Before using arc welding equipment to repair any part of the vehicle, disconnect the wires from the alternator and the battery terminals.

c)

d)

Never start the engine with a battery charger connected. Always disconnect both battery leads before using a battery charger.

e)

The

alternator

serious injury

turned by an engine drivebelt which could cause your hands, hair or clothes become entangled in it

is

if

with the engine running. f)

Because the alternator is connected directly to the battery, could cause a fire overloaded or shorted out. Wrap a plastic bag over the alternator and secure with rubberbands before steam cleaning the engine. it

arc or g)

To adjust the air gap between the igniter and the signal rotor, loosen the igniter mounting screws, insert a feeler gauge of the specified thickness between the igniter and one of the signal 13.2

if

it

push the igniter against the gauge and tighten the mounting screws

rotor projections,

Charging system - check

15

1

If

a malfunction occurs

in

the charging

circuit,

assume that the alternator is causing the problem. Distributor pickup air

13

gap - check and adjustment

follow-

Check

the drivebelt tension and condition (Chapter 1 ). Replace worn or deteriorated. Make sure the alternator mounting and adjustment bolts are tight. Inspect the alternator wiring harness and the connectors at the alternator. They must be in good condition and tight.

Refer to illustration 13.2

b)

procedure applies to Cordis and Tredia 2.0L (1983 through Galant (all models), Mirage 1.5L (1985 through 1 988) and Precis

Ttiis

.(1987 through 1989)

c)

d)

it

it's

if

1988),

check the

ing items: a)

Note:

don't automatically

First

Check the fusible

link(s).

If

burned, determine the cause, repair the

2

and replace the link (the vehicle won't start and/or the accessories won't work if the fusible link blows). Sometimes a fusible link may look good, but still be bad. If in doubt, remove and check for

thickness listed

continuity.

Anytime you disturb the pickup

|1

air

gap

in

the distributor

it

circuit

must be

properly adjusted.

Loosen the pickup mounting screws. Place a feeler gauge of the in this Chapter's Specifications between one of the projections on the signal rotor and the pickup (see illustration). Gently push the pickup toward the signal rotor until it's a snug - not 3 tight - fit against the feeler gauge. Tighten the pickup mounting screws. J4 i5 Check the adjustment by noting the amount of drag on the feeler gauge when you pull out of the gap between the signal rotor and the pickup. You should feel a slight amount of drag. If you feel excessive drag on the gauge, the gap is probably too small. If you don't feel any drag on the gauge when you pull out, the air gap is too large.

it

e)

(a

shrieking or squealing f)

g)

it

'

and check the alternator for abnormal noises sound indicates a bad bearing).

Start the engine

Check the

specific gravity of the battery electrolyte.

If

it's

low,

charge the battery (doesn't apply to maintenance free batteries). Make sure the battery is fully charged (one bad cell in a battery can cause overcharging by the alternator). Disconnect the battery cables (negative

h)

first,

then positive).

In-

spect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean

them thoroughly necessary (see Chapter 1 if

it

)

.

Reconnect the cable

to the positive terminal. i)

With the key

off,

connect a

test light

between the negative battery

post and the disconnected negative cable clamp. If

1

Charging system - general information and precautions

14

the test

ceed 2)

The charging system includes the regulator, the battery, the fusible link(s)

The charging system supplies electrical power for the ignition systhe lights, the radio, etc. The alternator is driven by a drivebelt at the

nents.

tem,

front of the

I

;

!

to

of the voltage regulator

is

to limit the alternator's voltage

a preset value. This prevents power surges,

circuit

overloads,

etc., dur-

peak voltage output. The fusible link can be either a short length of insulated wire integral with the engine compartment wiring harness or afuse-like device installed in the underhood electrical panel. See Chapter 1 2 for additional informaing

tion

regarding fusible

links.

The charging system doesn't ordinarily require periodic maintenance. However, the drivebelt, battery and wires and connections should be inspected

Chapter 1 should come on when the

light

the test

light

comes on, there is a short (drain) in the electrical The short must be repaired before the

Disconnect the alternator wiring harness. (a)

If

the

light

goes

(b)

If

the

light

stays on, pull each fuse

out, the alternator

key

is

bad.

is

until

the

light

goes out

you which component is shorted). Using a voltmeter, check the battery voltage with the engine off. If 2 should be approximately 12-volts. Start the engine and check the battery voltage again. It should now be 3 approximately 14-to- 15 volts. 4 Turn on the headlights. The voltage should drop, and then come back up, if the charging system is working properly. 5 If the voltage reading is more than the specified charging voltage, re(this will tell

place the voltage regulator (refer to Section 16). ,

ignition

pro-

of the vehicle.

alternator diode(s) stator or rectifier

at the intervals outlined in

The dashboard warning

does not come on, reattach the clamp and

charging system can be checked. 3)

engine.

The purpose

j

If

system

an integral voltage and wiring between all the compo-

alternator, with

light

to the next step.

may be

malfunctioning.

may be bad

If

the voltage

is

less, the

or the voltage regulator

5-12

Chapter 5

16.2

Engine

electrical

systems

Typical Cordia and Tredia

mounting

alternator

details

(others similar)

Power steering

1

oil

pump assembly 2 3

Alternator

4

Electrical connection

Bracket

1

6.25

Mirage

alternator 1

(1

989 on) details

Air conditioner drivebelt

Power steering

3

Drivebelt

4

Water pump pulley Water pump pulley Alternator brace

drivebelt

Electrical connection

Alternator

Alternator - removal and installation

Cordia, Precis Refer 1

.5L

2

5 6 7 8

16

1

mounting

and

2

3 4 5 6

Tredia

to illustration 16.2

Remove the drivebelts tor the power steering

nator (see Chapter

1).

oil

pump and

the alter-

Remove Remove Remove

the

oil

pump

(see illustration).

the lower mounting bolt for the alternator.

Detach the

Remove

power steering

the adjusting bracket for the alternator.

electrical

connectors from the alternator.

the alternator. the reverse of removal.

7

Installation

8

Adjust the belts tension (see Chapter

is

1 ).

1 3 4 6 5 8 9 7

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

5-13

systems

Mirage 1.6L (1989 on)

16.32

alternator 1

2

Power steering drivebelt

3 4 5 6 7

Water pump pulley Water pump pulley Alternator brace assembly Electrical connector

8 9

Battery

10

Galant Remove the left fan motor. Remove the drivebelts for the power steering oil pump and the alter-

9 1

nator (see Chapter

27 28 29 30

Remove Remove

Label and detach the electrical connectors from the alternator.

31

the lower mounting bolt from the alternator.

(see Chapter

1

Remove Remove

the alternator.

1

Installation

1

Adjust the belts tension (see Chapter

32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39

the reverse of removal. 1 ).

Mirage (1985 through 1988) Remove the alternator drivebelt and any other belt interfering with

removal (see Chapter

Remove

1

Label and detach the alternator electrical connectors.

21

22 23

its

1).

1

20

the alternator mounting bolts.

Remove any component Remove the alternator. Installation

is

Radiator Alternator

the alternator. is

the reverse of removal.

Adjust the belts tension (see Chapter

12

1

11

12

1 ).

1.6L

the alternator brace.

is

Washer tank Battery tray

1).

Remove

1

Battery holder

the lower mounting bolt from the alternator.

Installation

1

mounting details

Drivebelt

Remove the drivebelts for the power steering pump and the alternator Remove Remove Remove

1).

the water

pump

pulleys (see illustration).

the alternator brace. the radiator (see Chapter

3).

Label and detach the electrical connectors from the alternator.

Remove Remove

the lower mounting bolt from the alternator.

the alternator.

Installation

is

the reverse of removal

Adjust the belts tension (see Chapter

1 ).

interfering with alternator removal.

17

Voltage regulator/alternator brushes - replacement

the reverse of removal.

Adjust the belt(s) tension (see Chapter

1 ).

1988 Precis (Bosch type) Refer

Mirage (1989 on) Refer to illustrations 16.25

and 16.32

1.5L 24 Remove the drivebelts for the power steering, air conditioning and the alternator (see Chapter 1). 25 Remove the alternator brace (see illustration). 26 Label and detach the electrical connectors from the alternator.

to illustrations 17.2, 17.3

and

17.4

you are replacing the brushes (but not the regulator itself), the following procedure requires that you unsolder the old brush leads from the regulator and solder the new ones into place. Unless you are skilled with a soldering gun, have this procedure performed by someone who is. If you overheat and damage the regulator, you could end up spending a lot more Note

:

If

money than necessary. Remove the alternator. 1

5-14

Chapter 5

1 7.2 To detach the voltage regulator/brush holder assembly, remove the two mounting screws (arrows) and pull the regulator/brush holder straight out

17.10a

1

7.3

ruler

Engine

electrical

systems

Measure the brushes with a small - if they're shorter than 3/16 of an inch, install new ones

Heating the rear bearing box of the alternator splitting the alternator easier

will

make 1

17.11 1

Alternator pulley

2

Seal Rotor assembly Rear bearing Bearing retainer Front bearing

3 4

5 6

To detach worn brushes from the voltage regulator/brush holder assembly, carefully unsolder the brush leads and extract each brush and lead from the holder

17.4

7.1

Ob

Use two screwdrivers

to split the alternator

Exploded view of the Meico type alternator

Terminal

14

Brush Brush spring Slinger (if equipped)

10

Plate

15

Rectifier

11

Regulator and

16

Rear bracket

7 8 9

Front bracket

12

Stator

13

brush holder

Chapter 5 If

L

ItfUf/^l

...III Try

B^

V

Limit line

17.12a

Wear

If

mm (.079-. 118

17.12b

line,

If

the brushes are being replaced, unsolder and solder the pigtails at the area shown

Wire

in.)'

ami 17.13

limit line

the brushes are worn past the wear limit they should be replaced

3

3

5-15

systems

electrical

Soldered

o

2

Engine

1^

When

Remove Remove

installing new brushes, they should extend out of the holder the proper amount

the voltage regulator mounting screw^s (see illustration). the regulator/brush holder assembly and

length of the brushes (see illustration).

If

Wire

measure the

they are less than 3/16-inch

them with new ones. Note: Ifyou're simply replacing the voltage regulator, skip the next step - the new regulator assembly includes a new set of brushes so the following step is unnecessary. :4 Unsolder the brush wiring connections (see illustration) and remove [the brushes and springs. long, replace

!5

Installation is the

reverse of removal.

When placing the two covers together, use a piece of wire through the rear case and into the brush holder to retain the brushes in the holder

17.14

Be sure to solder the new brush

(leads properly.

I

i

I

All others Refer

(Meico type)

to illustrations

1 7. 1

0a, 17.10b, 17.11, 17.12a, 17.12b, 17.13

and

\\l714 ;

(

j

f

j

,"

1 '

j

i

6 7 8

18

Remove the alternator (see Section 1 6). Remove the bolts retaining the two halves of the alternator together. Mount the front of the alternator face down in a vise. Using rags as a

cushion, clamp to the front case portion of the alternator.

9 10

Remove

all

nuts from the back of the alternator.

Using a 200-watt soldering

iron,

heat the rear bearing area (bearing

box) of the rear case (see illustration). Insert two standard screwdrivers

J

, '

I

'

[

The sole function of the starting system is to turn over the engine quickenough to allow it to start. The starting system consists of the battery, the starter motor, the starter solenoid and the wires connecting them. The solenoid is mounted dily

rectly

on the

starter motor.

The solenoid/starter motor assembly is

installed

on the transaxle

bell-

between the two halves of the alternator (not too deep or you will damage the stator) and pry the rear case off the alternator (see illustration). Caution: Pry gently or you'll break the delicate aluminum case.

housing.

Unsolder the regulator/brush holder (see illustration). Note: While applying heat to electrical components, it's a good idea to use a pair of needle-nose pliers as a heat sink. Don t apply heat for more than about five seconds. 12 Inspect the brushes for excessive wear (see illustration) and replace them if necessary by unsoldering (see illustration). 1 3 When installing new brushes, solder the pigtails so the brush limit line will be about 0.079 to 0.1 1 8 in. above the end of the brush holder (see il-

then connects the battery to the starter. The battery supplies the electrical energy to the starter motor, which does the actual work of cranking the en-

carefully

11

i

system - general information and precautions

Starting

When the noid

is

To reassemble, compress the brushes into their holder and retain them with a straight piece of wire that can be pulled from the back of the

when reassembled (see illustration). To reassemble, reverse disassembly procedure.

alternator

15

key

is

turned to the Start position, the starter solecircuit.

The

starter solenoid

gine.

Always observe the following precautions when working on the

start-

ing system: a)

Excessive cranking of the starter motor can overheat it and cause damage. Never operate the starter motor for more than 30 seconds at a time without pausing to allow it to cool for at least two serious

minutes.

lustration).

14

ignition

actuated through the starter control

b)

c)

The

starter is connected directly to the battery and could arc or cause a fire if mishandled, overloaded or shorted out. Always detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery before working on the starting system.

1

.

5-16 19

Chapter 5

motor - testing

Starter

in

Engine

electrical

systems

vehicle

Note: Before diagnosing starter problems, charged.

make sure

the battery

is fully

1 the starter motor does not turn at all when the switch is operated, make sure that the shift lever is in Neutral or Park (automatic transmission) If

or that the clutch pedal

is

depressed (manual transmission).

t^ake sure that the battery is charged and that all cables, both at the battery and starter solenoid terminals, are clean and secure.

2 3

If

the starter motor spins but the engine

ning clutch

in

the starter motor

is

slipping

not cranking, the overrun-

is

and the

starter

motor must be

replaced.

4 all

If,

when the switch

is

actuated, the starter motor does not operate at

but the solenoid clicks, then the problem

lies

with either the battery, the

main solenoid contacts or the starter motor itself (or the engine is seized). 5 If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard when the switch is actuated, the battery is bad, the fusible link is burned (the circuit is open) or the solenoid

itself is

defective.

20.3

To check the solenoid, connect a jumper lead between the battery {+) and the ignition switch wire terminal (the small terminal) on the solenoid. If the starter motor now operates, the solenoid is OK and the problem is in

Typical mounting details for the starter motor

6

the ignition switch, neutral start switch or the wiring.

20

does not operate, remove the starter/solenoid assembly for disassembly, testing and repair. If the starter motor cranks the engine at an abnormally slow speed, 8 first make sure that the battery is charged and that all terminal connections are tight. If the engine is partially seized, or has the wrong viscosity oil in it, 7

If

the starter motor

it will crank slowly. 9 Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached. On engines equipped with a DIS ignition system, relieve the fuel pressure and leave the fuel pump disconnected throughout testing (see Chapter 4). On all others, disconnect the coil wire from the distributor cap and ground it on

Refer 1

2

motor - removal and

installation

to illustration

20.3

Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Clearly label, then disconnect the wires from the terminals on the

starter solenoid.

3 4

21

the engine.

10

Starter

still

Remove the mounting bolts (see illustration) and remove the starter Installation is the reverse of removal.

Starter solenoid

- removal and

installation

On all models, connect a voltmeter positive lead to the positive battery Refer

post and connect the negative lead to the negative post.

Crankthe engine and take the voltmeter readings as soon as a steady figure is indicated. Do not allow the starter motor to turn for more than 30 seconds at a time. A reading of 9 volts or more, with the starter motor turn1

ing at normal cranking speed,

the cranking speed

is

is

normal.

slow, the motor

If

the reading

is faulty.

If

is

9 volts or more but

the reading

is

less than 9

and the cranking speed is slow, the solenoid contacts are probably burned, the starter motor is bad, the battery is discharged or there is a bad

volts

connection.

21 .3

To separate the solenoid from the starter motor, remove the nut and detach the lead (arrow) .

.

1

2 3

to illustration

21.3 and 21.4

^

,;,

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Remove the starter motor (see Section 1 9). Disconnectthe large motor lead from the solenoid terminal (see illus-

tration).

Remove the screws which secure the solenoid (see illustration). Pull the solenoid from the starter body flange. 5 6 Installation is the reverse of removal. 4

21.4

...

and

to the starter

motor

then remove the solenoid mounting screws (arrows) pull the solenoid straight off the starter flange

11

Emissions control systems

Chapter 6 Contents

8 13

Catalytic converter

Computerized Engine Controls (CEC) Deceleration devices (carbureted models) Evaporative emission control system Evaporative emission control system check and canister replacement Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system General information Heated Air Intake (HAI) system (carbureted models) High altitude compensation system

9 3

Idle-up

system (carbureted models) (1 988 and earlier models)

Mixture Control Valves (carbureted models)

Oxygen sensor replacement Positive

See Chapter

Crankcase Crankcase

Ventilation

1

Positive

6

and replacement Secondary air supply system

1

4 12

General information

11

Jet air system

Ventilation

Thermostatically controlled

air

(PCV) system (PCV) valve check

^

See Chapter

1

7 cleaner check

control devices requires specialized tools,

Remember,

5 10 See Chapter 1 2

See Chapter

equipment and

1

training.

the most frequent cause of emissions control problems

is

vacuum hose or wire, so always check the hose and wiring connections a problem is suspected. Note: Because of a Federally mandated extended warranty which covers the emission control simply a loose or broken

To prevent pollution

of the

atmosphere from incompletely burned and

evaporating gases, and to maintain good driveabillty and fuel economy,

a number of emission control systems and devices are incorporated. They include the: Positive

Crankcase

Ventilation

(PCV) system

Evaporative emission control system

Heated Air Intake (HAI) system (carbureted models) and on models) Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system Secondary air supply system (except MPI models)

Jet air system (except 1989

Catalytic converter

Deceleration devices (carbureted models)

Before assuming that an emissions control system

check the

fuel

and

ignition

systems

carefully.

is

malfunctioning,

The diagnosis

of

emission

if

system components, check with your dealer about warranty coverage before working on any emissions-related systems. Pay close attention to any special precautions outlined in this Chapter. It should be noted that the illustrations of the various systems may not exactly match the system installed on your vehicle because of changes made by the manufacture during production or from year-to-year.

A Vehicle Emissions Control Information (VECI) label is located in the engine compartment. This label contains important emissions specifications and adjustment information, as well as a vacuum hose schematic with emissionscomponents identified. When servicing the engine or emissions systems, the VECI label in your particular vehicle should always be checked

for up-to-date information.

.

6-2

Emissions control systems

Chapter 6

valve closes, the bowl vent valve opens to connect the carburetor bowl to the canister, allowing fuel vapors to flow to the canister where they are

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system

2

stored 1 The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system reduces hydrocarbon emissions by scavenging crankcase vapors. It does this by circulating fresh air from the air cleaner through the crankcase, where mixes with blow-by gases and is then rerouted through a PCV valve to the intake it

until

the next time the key

is

turned on.

Purge control system The purge control system is closed during idle to prevent vaporized from entering the intake manifold. At higher engine speeds, the purge control valve opens. 5

fuel

manifold.

2

The main components of the PCV system are the PCV valve, a fresh and the vacuum hoses connecting these two components

air filtered inlet

with the engine.

3

To maintain

idle quality,

vacuum

PCV valve

the

restricts the flow

when

the

in-

and high load conditions, vacuum is low, so the PCV passage opens more to facilitate flow. 4 Checking and replacement of the PCV valve and filter is covered in take manifold

Chapter

is

high. During acceleration

1

Thermo valve The thermo valve, which monitors the engine coolant temperature at 6 the intake manifold, controls the purge control sytem when the engine coolant temperature

is

lower than the pre-set temperature. This reduces

CO

and HC emissions under engine warmup conditions. The thermo valve opens the purge control system when the engine coolant temperature is above the pre-set temperature. The thermo valve also controls the choke breaker, EGR valve and choke opener.

Fuel

cap

filler

The fuel filler cap is equipped with a vacuum escape of fuel vapor into the atmosphere. 7

Evaporative emission control system

3

relief

valve to prevent the

Overfill limiter Refer

to illustrations 3.2a, 3.2b,

3.2c

and 3. 2d

8

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions wtien you work on any part of the fuel system. Don smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.

The typical overfill limiter consists of two valves: The pressure valve, which opens when fuel tank internal pressure

a)

exceeds normal pressure.

't

't

1 The evaporative emission control system is designed to prevent the escape of fuel vapors from the fuel system into the atmosphere. 2 The typical evaporative emission control system consists of a canister, a bowl vent valve, a purge control system, an overfill limiter, a thermo valve, a fuel check valve and a specially designed fuel filler cap (see illus-

b)

The vacuum is

valve, which

opens when

fuel

tank internal pressure

lower than normal pressure.

Fuel check valve The fuel check valve, prevents fuel leaks in the event of a vehicle rolThe valve contains two balls. Under normal conditions, the fuel vapor passage in the valve is open, but, should the vehicle roll over, one of 9

lover.

the balls closes the fuel passage, preventing fuel leakage.

4

Heated Air Intake (HAI) system (carbureted models)

trations).

Refer

Canister When the engine is inoperative, fuel vapors generated inside the fuel

3

tank and the carburetor float chamber are absorbed and stored ister.

in

the can-

When the engine is running, the fuel vapors absorbed in the canister

are drawn into the intake manifold through the purge control.

to illustration 4.2

Carbureted models are equipped with a F4eated Air Intake (HAI) system to permit leaner carburetion, which reduces HC and CO emissions, improves warm-up characteristics and minimizes carburetor icing. 2 The air cleaner is equipped with an air control valve inside the snorkel to regulate the temperature of intake air, which is admitted to the carburetor through the fresh air duct, the heat cowl and air duct, or through both 1

routes (see illustration).

Bowl vent valve (carbureted models) 4 The bowl vent valve controls the carburetor bowl vapors. When the engine is running, intake vacuum acts on a diaphragm to close the bowl vent valve so that the bowl is connected to an air vent. During engine operation, the diaphragm is kept open by a solenoid valve - even when intake manifold vacuum falls to a value equal to atmospheric pressure - as long as the ignition key is turned on. When the key is turned off, the solenoid

Fueliniector

To thernno valve .j^.^^3^g^,Q3g

Purge control valve

Fuel check valve

Fuel

filler

(vacuum Air cleaner

Bowl vent valve

Overfill limiter

To ttiermo

valve Overfill limiter

Purge

(Leveling tube)

Air cleaner

(2-way valve) Carburetor' Carburetor float

chamber

control

Fuel

valve

(Vacuum

filler

cap relief) I

^

Engine

„

Canister

4-HlV

^

Intake manifold

—

Orifice

Canister

Fuel vapor

Purge

air

Fuel ctieck valve

Fuel tank

Overfill linniter

(2-way valve)

Filter

3.2a

Details of the evaporative emission control for carbureted

models

(typical)

system

3.2b

Details of tfie evaporative emission control for TBI

models

(typical)

system

cap relief)

Chapter 6

Throttle

6-3

Emissions control systems

body

Engine coolant temperature sensor

Details of the evaporative emission control

3.2c

for 1.5L

MPI models

system

(typical)

Canister

Engine coolant tennperature sensor

6

3.2d

Details of the evaporative emission control

system

for 1.6L

MPI models

(typical)

Vacuum motor Fresh

Air cleaner air

Temperature sensor

duct

Intake

manifold

vacuum

Exhaust manifold

4.2 The Heated Air Intake (HAI) system: when the engine is cold, the temperature sensor allows intake manifold vacuum to the vacuum motor, which opens the air control valve, allowing hot air to be drawn into the air cleaner through the heat cowl and air duct

1

1

6-4

Chapter 6

Emissions controi systems valve, which

terrupts the

senses engine temperature. The thermo valve invacuum signal to the EGR valve during warm-up when

less NOx is generated and less EGR promotes better driveability. The sub-EGR valve opens and closes with the throttle valve via a

c)

linkage to regulate

EGR flow through

the

EGR

valve

in

response,

to the throttle valve position.

3

um

On another type of EGR system no sub-EGR valve is used. A VacuRegulator Valve (VRV) is used to modulate the vacuum signal to the

EGR valve.

7

Intake stroke

Refer

The

valve (arrow) allows a super lean mixture to be admitted Into the combustion chamber during the intake stroke

3

The

sensor

in

jet

air control

the

air

valve

When

operated by a vacuum motor. A temperature when the vacuum motor receives intake intake air is below about 86-degrees F, the tem-

vacuum

vacuum

to to the

valve up and causes hot

motor.

be drawn through 1 1 3-degrees F, the temperature sensor does not allow vacuum to the vacuum motor and the air control valve remains down. This causes cold air to be drawn through the fresh air duct. When intake air temperature is between about 86 to 1 1 3-degrees F, the air control valve is partially open and intake air is a blend of air drawn through both routes. air control

the heat cowl and

duct.

air

Jet air system

Refer

(1

ber

8

Catalytic converter

air to

When intake air is above about

988 and earlier models)

Refer

to illustration

1 The catalytic converter is an emission control device added to the exhaust system to reduce pollutants from the exhaust gas stream. The converter(s) being used are a three-way catalyst type (see illus2 tration). It lowers the levels of oxides of nitrogen (NOx) as well as hydro-

to illustration 5.

In

9

Deceleration devices (carbureted models)

is

Deceleration spark advance system advanced during deceleration by a vacuum advance This unit normally has ported vacuum applied to but when the vehicle is decelerating, the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) sends a signal to a solenoid valve which opens to apply the higher vacuum from the intake manifold. This advances the ignition timing, reducing HC 1

unit

Ignition timing

on the

is

distributor.

it,

emissions.

Dashpot 2 ing

3

The carburetor

HC

throttle

is

equipped with a dashpot which slows the rate at its normal idling position, thereby reduc-

valve closes to

emissions.

For further information on the dashpot, refer to Chapter

4.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system

6

The Exhaust Gas

(EGR) system is designed to reduce The EGR system recirculates a of the exhaust gas from an exhaust port in the cylinder head into a

oxides of nitrogen portion

in

Recirculation

the vehicle exhaust.

port located in the intake manifold.

2

'

emissions-related components suet) as ttie catalytic converter, cfieck with a dealer service department before replacing ttie converter at your own expense.

which the

1

8.2

Note: Because of a Federally mandated extended warranty wfiict) covers

carbons (HC) and carbon monoxide (CO).

addition to the intake and exhaust valves, each combustion chamequipped with a smaller jet valve (see illustration) which allows a super lean mixture to be admitted into the combustion chamber during the intake stroke. This super lean mixture swirls as it enters the combustion chamber. The swirl continues throughout the compression stroke and improves flame propagation after ignition, assuring efficient combustion. 2 Air is admitted through intake openings located near the primary throttle valve of the carburetor, then routed to the jet valve via a passage through the intake manifold and cylinder head, where it is drawn through the jet valve opening into the combustion chamber. The jet valve is operated by a forked rocker arm which also activates 3 the intake valve (they share the same cam lobe). This design ensures that the intake and jet valve open simultaneously. 1

to illustration 7.

The secondary

is

perature sensor allows intake manifold

5

supply system

cleaner controls

manifold vacuum. This draws the

air

air supply system (see illustration), installed on all models except those equipped with MPI, delivers air to the front catalytict converter through a reed valve(s) to promote further oxidation of exhaust; emissions during engine warm-up, deceleration and heavy engine loads. The reed valve(s) is actuated by vacuum generated by exhaust pulsation. The system is controlled by the secondary air control valve, a sole2 noid valve and the vehicle's Electronic Control Unit (ECU). 1

5.1

Secondary

On one type of EGR system EGR flow is controlled by an EGR valve,

a sub-EGR valve

(if

equipped) and a thermo valve (see illustration

The

EGR valve

throttle

is

controlled by carburetor

valve opening;

wide open b)

Mixture Control Valves (carbureted models)

Cordia/Tredia (1984 through 1986), Mirage (1985) and Precis (1987) Deceleration Solenoid Valve (DSV)

13.1a). a)

10

EGR

flow

is

vacuum

suspended

at

response to idle and during in

to the

EGR valve

When the throttle is closed suddenly during deceleration, the remain-

prevent

throttle conditions.

The vacuum applied

1

ing fuel in the intake manifold

is

controlled by a thermo

2

this,

causes a temporarily overrich mixture. To

the solenoid shuts

The solenoid

also shuts

off

off

the fuel (see illustration 13.1a).

the fuel

when

the engine

is

switched

off.

Secondary

air

6-5

Emissions control systems

Chapter 6

control

solenoid valve

Engine speed Cootoant temp, sensor Idle position

switch

Air cleaner

Reed valve

Front catalytic

Intake nnanifold

converte

Details of the

7.1

secondary

air

supply system

Slow Cut Solenoid Valve (SCSV) This solenoid is used 6 (see illustration 13.1b).

to

reduce the

rich

mixture during deceleration

Mixture Control Valve (MCV) (1988 and 1989 Precis) 7

When the throttle is closed suddenly during deceleration, the remain-

causes a temporarily overrich mixture. To prevent this, the solenoid temporarily supplies air from another passage to correct the air to fuel ratio and reduce emissions. ing fuel in the intake manifold

cfUTTi

zif.

11

8.2

Some models use two

Idle-up

system (carbureted models)

catalytic converters,

others only use one 1

Front converter

2

Rear converter

(if

Electrical load or power steering load

equipped)

Refer 1

to illustration 11.1

This idle-up system consists of a dashpot assembly, a solenoid valve,

sensing circuitry and an oil pump pressure switch in the power steering system (see illustration). When there is an electrical load or power steering load at idle that re2 electrical load

Enrichment Solenoid Valve (ESV) 3 gine

This solenoid is

is

used

to supply extra fuel that

cold or heavy acceleration

is

is

needed when the en-

quires a greater engine speed, the solenoid valve

Jet Solenoid Valve (JSV) This solenoid is the main air to fuel ratio controller (see illustration 4 13.1 a). The amount of time it is energized will be increased as more fuel is needed.

throttle shaft.

Air conditioning load 3

and

and the ECU (see illustration). 4 When the air conditioning compressor is engaged at idle, a greater engine speed is required, the solenoid valve is opened, allowing vacuum

Feedback Solenoid Valve (FBSV) When

to illustration 11.3

This idle-up system consists of a throttle opener assembly, a solenoid

valve, an air conditioning switch

1989)

This solenoid works to maintain the proper air to fuel ratio. 5 energized the vehicle will run leaner (see illustration 13.1b).

opened, allowing vac-

the dashpot opens the throttle valve slightly via the idle-up lever on the

Refer

Cordia/Tredia (1987 and 1988), Mirage (1986 through 1988) and Precis (1988

is

uum from the intake manifold to act on the dashpot. This vacuum acting on

required (see illustration 13.1a).

it

is

to act on the throttle opener. This vacuum acting opener causes the engine speed to increase.

from the intake manifold

on the

throttle

6

1

6-6

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems

Solenoid valve (Closed)

To intake manifold

^^ ^ Solenoid valve (Opened) Electrical

'"^

T-!^^Wi

l

To intake

load switch iT J

ECU

nnanifold

Throttle opener setting screw

a Power \

V

steering

T

switch

Throttle valve

Battery

11.1

Details of the idle-up

Air conditioning

,

Throttle


r

linkages and the

speedome-

cable have been connected and that the transaxle has been

filled

with

proper level (see Chapter 1 ). 4 Install the battery and tray and connect the cables (negative cable ist). Road test the vehicle for proper operation and check for leaks. jbricant to the

if

Manual transaxle overhaul - general information ^efer to illustrations 4.4a

7A-5

Manual transaxle

and 4.4b

Overhauling a manual transaxle is a difficult job for the do-it-yourselfer. I involves the disassembly and reassembly of many small parts. Numer'

it

it

7A

4.4a

Back-up Gasket

Typical four-speed transaxle

components - exploded view

10

Spacers

19

Bolts

11

Breather

20

Steel ball

12

21

4

Bolt

13

5 6 7 8 9

Locking plate

14

Speedometer gear assembly

15

Bolt

16

Transaxle case

1

Outer bearing race

18

Gasket Poppet plugs Gasket Poppet springs Poppet balls Reverse idler gear shaft Reverse idler gear

Reverse Reverse

1

2 3

light

switch

17 7

shift lever

assembly

shift rail

22 23

Spring pins

24

First/second shift fork

25 26 27

3rd/4th shift

First/second shift

rail

3rd/4th shift fork Interlock plungers

rail

28 29 30

Output shaft assembly

31

Intermediate gear assembly

32 33 34 35 36

Bolts

Spacer Differential

assembly

Bearing retainer Input shaft

assembly

Bearing outer race Clutch housing

7A-6

Chapter 7 Part

A

Manual transaxle

- but actually noting how they are installed when you remove make much easier to get the transaxle back together. Before taking the transaxle apart for repair, will help you have some

the parts go the parts

will

it

it

idea what area of the transaxle

is

if

malfunctioning. Certain problems can

be closely tied to specific areas in the transaxle, which can make compo nent examination and replacement easier. Refer to the Troubleshooting section at the front of this

manual

for information

regarding possible

sources of trouble.

I

1—30 S 31

4.4b

Typical five-speed transaxle

5th gear actuator

12

Intermediate gear assembly

2

Collar

13

3 4

O-ring

14

Seat Locking plate

15

1

1

17 7

Speedometer gear assembly Reverse idler gear shaft Reverse idler gear Reverse shift gear Output shaft assembly

7

Seat

18

Outer bearing race

8 9

Input shaft assembly

19

Spacer

5 6

Select

rail

fork

16

assembly

assembly

Bearing retainer

20

Differential

10

Spacer

21

Reverse

11

Bearing outer race

22

First/second shift

shift rail rail

components - exploded view Interlock plunger

gear lug Selector spacer Poppet ball Poppet spring

33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

31

Plug

41

Fifth

32

Interlock plunger

42

Clutch housing

23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

First/second shift fork Third/fourth shift fork

Spring pin Third/fourth shift Fifth

rail

Transaxle bracket Clutch cable bracket

Backup Gasket

light

switch

Steel ball

Transaxle case Breather

gear actuator switch

3

'chapter? Part B

Automatic transaxle

Contents Automatic transaxle fluid and filter ctiange Automatic transaxle fluid level check Automatic transaxle - removal and installation Diagnosis - general General information Neutral start switch

See Chapter See Chapter

- check, replacement and adjustment

replacement

1

Oil seal

1

Selector linkage - removal, installation and adjustment

8

Throttle valve (TV) cable (three-speed models)

2

and adjustment Transaxle mount - check and replacement

1

- check

7

Specifications

7B

Clearances Selector lever assembly adjusting sleeve-to-lever end clearance (15.2 to 15.9

mm) mm) mm)

Throttle valve (TV) cable clearance

0.677 to 0.705 in (17.2 to 17.9 0.598 to 0.625 in (15.2 to 15.9 0.04 + 0.02 in (1 + 0.5 mm)

Torque specifications

Ft-ibs

Galant

0.598

to

0.625

1986 and 1987 on

earlier

Transaxle-to-engine bolts

mm mm X 20 mm X 60 mm X 40 mm X 55 mm X 65 mm

6 x

8 8 8 1 1 1

in

other models

All

X

1

2

7 to 9

1

2

22

to

36

1 1

to

1

filler

to

31 to

Torque converter-to-driveplate bolts Drain and

25 40 1 6 to 23 31 to 40 30 to 35 See Chapter 22

plugs

Throttle valve lower cable bracket bolt

10

Neutral start switch bolts

8

pan bolts Starter motor bolts

See Chapter

Fluid

20

to

25

1

1

2 3 4 5

:

7B-2

Chapter 7 Part B

behind the

Insert the tip of a large screwdriver (arrow)

seal

and very

carefully pry

oil

Automatic transaxie

Apply a

3.6

and

out

it

thin layer of

carefully tap

it

grease to the outer edge of the new seal bore with a large socket and hammer

into the

not proceed with the preliminary checks until

General information

it

has been repaired and

runs normally.

Check the throttle valve cable (if equipped) for freedom of movement. necessary (see Section 6). Note: The throttle valve cable may function properly when the engine is shut off and cold, but it may malfunction once the engine is hot. Check it cold and at normal engine operating

4 All

vehicles covered

manual come equipped with

in this

either a four

speed manual transaxie or a three-or four-speed automatic transaxle. All information on the automatic transaxie is included in this Part of Chapter 7. Information for the manual transaxie can be found in Part A of

or five

this

Due to the complexity of the automatic transaxie and the need for speequipment

to

perform most service operations,

removal and

this

Chapter conand

routine maintenance, adjustment

tains only general diagnosis,

the transaxie requires major repair work,

pense, even

if

Inspect the selector control cable (see Section

the repair work

is

(Vlost fluid

dure

may

may be caused by four general poor engine performance, improper adjustments, tiydraulic malfunctions or mechanical malfunctions. Diagnosis of these problems should always begin with a check of the easily repaired items: fluid level and condition (see Chapter 1), selector linkage adjustment and throttle linkage adjustment. Next, perform a road test to determine if the problem has been corrected or if more diagnosis is necessary. If the problem persists after the preliminary tests

and corrections are completed,

additional

diagnosis should be done by a dealer service department or transmission repair shop. Refer to the Troubleshooting section at the front of this

manu-

ture.

If

fluid level

the fluid level

as described

in

Chapter

1

unusually low, add enough

is

fluid to bring

within the designated area of the dipstick, then

check

If

is

abnormally high, drain

fluid tor

gine coolant

in

the level

the

fluid is

3

in

the excess, then check

contamination by coolant. The presence of en-

in

fail-

the internal radiator walls that separate the

coolant from the transmission If

off

the automatic transmission fluid indicates that a

ure has occurred

coolant

to find, the following proce-

Identify the fluid. IVIake sure fluid

it's

transmission

(automatic transmission

fluid is

fluid

and not engine oil or

a deep red

color).

Make a careful visual inspection of the suspected component and the 9 area immediately around it. Pay particular attention to gasket mating surfaces.

A

mirror

is

often helpful for finding leaks

in

areas that are hard

to

see. 1

If

the leak

still

cannot be found, clean the suspected area thoroughly

with a degreaser or solvent, then dry 11

it.

Drive the vehicle for several miles at normal operating temperature

and varying speeds. After driving the vehicle, visually inspect the suspected component again. 1 Once the leak has been located, the cause must be determined before can be properly repaired. a gasket is replaced but the sealing flange is bent, the new gasket will not stop the leak. The bent flange must be straightened. 1 Before attempting to repair a leak, check to make sure that the following conditions are corrected or they may cause another leak. Note: Some of the following conditions cannot be fixed without highly specialized tools and expertise. Such problems must be referred to a transmission shop or a If

dealer sen/ice department.

Gasket leaks

the fluid level

the drained

c)

is difficult

for external

leaks. b)

a leak

it

problem diagnosis.

Preliminary checks 1 Drive the vehicle to warm the transaxie to normal operating temperaCheck the

If

help.

Try to pinpoint the source of the leak. Dnve the vehicle several miles, 8 then park it over a large sheet of cardboard. After a minute or two, you should be able to locate the leak by determining the source of the fluid dripping onto the cardboard.

conditions:

a)

s

leaks are easy to locate visually. Repair usually consists of

replacing a seal or gasket.

7

done by a transmission shop.

Note: Automatic transaxie malfunctions

2

it

it

Diagnosis - general

al for transaxie

Make sure that

Fluid leak diagnosis 6

brake

2

5).

properly adjusted and that the linkage operates smoothly.

procedures.

installation

should be left to a dealer service department or an automotive or transmission repair shop. You can, however, remove and install the transaxie yourself and save the exIf

it if

temperature.

5

Chapter.

cialized

Adjust

foaming, drain

it

fluid

and

(see Chapter

refill

3).

the transaxie, then check for

the fluid or a high fluid level.

Check the engine idle speed. Note:

If the

engine is malfunctioning, do

1

Check the pan

may

indicate

periodically.

Make sure the bolts are tight, no bolts are

good condition and the pan is flat (dents in the pan damage to the valve body inside).

missing, the gasket

is in

is leaking, the fluid level or the fluid pressure may be may be plugged, the pan bolts may be too tight, the pan sealing flange may be warped, the sealing surface of the transaxie housing may be damaged, the gasket may be damaged or the transaxie casting may be cracked or porous. sealant instead of gasket material has been 1

If

the pan gasket

too high, the vent

If

1 3

8 9 7

Chapter 7 Part B

3.11

1

7B-3

Automatic transaxle

Driven gear assembly

component 1

details

O-ring

2 3

Spring pin

4

O-ring

5

Sleeve

3.12 When assembling the driven gear to the sleeve, make sure the spring pin is installed with the slit facing away from the shaft

Gear

used to form a seal between the pan and the transaxle housing, wrong sealant.

it

may be

Pfhe

,

16

';

If

check

a transaxle seal

is

leaking, the fluid level or pressure

may be

for

movement

too

may be plugged, the seal bore may be damaged, the seal may be damaged or improperly installed, the surface of the shaft protruding through the seal may be damaged or a loose bearing may be caushigh, the vent itself

ing excessive shaft 1

Make sure

good condition and the tube is speedometer transmission fluid is evident, check the O-

the dipstick tube seal

gear or sensor ring for

for

leakage.

If

is in

damage. Also inspect the side gear

shaft

oil

seals for leakage.

1

1

the case

to

Fluid comes out vent pipe or fill tube 20 If this condition occurs, the transaxle is overfilled, there is coolant in the fluid, the case is porous, the dipstick is incorrect, the vent is plugged or the drain back holes are plugged.

3

Oil seal

1

the

to illustrations 3.4, 3.6, 3.11

speedometer driven gear O-rings. Replacement of these seals is relasince the repairs can usually be performed without removing

lively easy,

The driveaxle oil seals are located at the sides of the transaxle, where

I

the driveaxles are attached.

If

leakage

at the seal is

suspected, raise the

and support securely on jackstands. If the seal cant will be found on the sides of the transaxle. Refer to Chapter 8 and remove the driveaxles. 3 vehicle

4

removed

with a screwdriver or pry bar, a spewill

be required.

Using a large section of pipe or a large deep socket as a drift, install the new oil seal (see illustration). Drive it into the bore squarely and make sure it's completely seated. 7

Install

the driveaxle(s).

Be

careful not to

damage

the

lip

of the

new

seal.

The speedometer cable and

driven gear housing

is

located on the

mine

if

the O-ring

is

leaking.

9

Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transaxle.

1

Unscrew the retaining bolt and remove the speedometer gear assem-

bly. 1 Drive out the spring pin and separate the driven gear from the sleeve (see illustration). 12 Install new O-rings on the driven gear and reassemble the housing using a new spring pin (see illustration). 1 Install the speedometer gear and cable assembly.

it

is

leaking, lubri-

Using a screwdriver or prybar, carefully pry the oil seal out of the trans-

axle bore (see illustration).

4

Transaxle mount - check and replacement

Refer

to illustration 4.

a large screwdriver or pry bar between the mount and transaxle it back and forth (see illustration). 2 The transaxle bracket should not move away from the mount. If it does, replace the mount. To replace a mount, support the transaxle with a jack, remove the nut 3 and through bolt and the bracket-to-transaxle bolts, then detach the mount. It may be necessary to lower the transaxle slightly to provide enough clearance to remove the mount. 4 Installation is the reverse of removal. 1

Insert

bracket and pry

the transaxle from the vehicle.

2

seal cannot be

replacement

and 3. 12 Oil leaks frequently occur due to wear of the driveaxle oil seals, and/or

Refer

oil

seal removal tool (available at auto parts stores)

transaxle housing. Look for lubricant around the cable housing to deter-

itself appears to be leaking, the casting is porous and will be repaired or replaced. Make sure the oil cooler hose fittings are tight and in good condition. If

the

If

cial oil

8

Case leaks have

5 6

movement.

properly seated. Periodically check the area around the

[

!

Pry on the transaxle mount with a large screwdriver to

4.1

Seal leaks

78

1

7B-4 5

Chapter 7 Part B

Automatic transaxle

Selector linkage - removal, installation and adjustment

Removal Refer 1

2 (if

to illustrations 5.2, 5.5a, 5.5b, 5.5c, 5.5d, 5.5e, 5.5f

and 5.5g

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orts '61 thm '73 models '66 thm '74 models '74 thm '90 all models '75 thm '82 a 760 Series all models '82 thm '88

120, 130 Series

140 240 260 740

Series Series Series

all

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Over 100 Haynes motorcycle manuals

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'84 thru '93 Cougar '83 thru '88

Thunderbird/Mercury Thunderbird/Mercury Cougar '89 and Vans all V8 Ecorioline models '69 thru

Safari

679 123

'74

MERCURY

Metro - see CHEVROLET Spiint (1727) Prizm - see CHEVROLET Nova (1642) Storm all models '90 thru '93 Tracker - see SUZUKI Samurai (1626)

DATSUN 402 647 228 525 206 563

41 9

GEO

CHRYSLER '2058

082 267 370

346 983 698 697

'79 thru '92;

GENERAL MOTORS

front

S-15 Pick-ups '82 thnj '92 Sprint & Geo Metro '85 thru '91 Vans - Chevrolet & GMC, V8 & in-line 6 cylinder models '68 thru '92

•1727 •345

Mustang,

'766

'68

Versailles ('75 thnj 86)

Mustang & Mercury Capri

incl. Turbo Capn, '79 thru '86 Mustang V8 all models '64-1/2 thru '73 Mustang II 4 cyl, V6 & V8 '74 thnj '78 Pinto & Mercury Bobcat '75 thru '80 Probe all models '89 thru '92 Ranger/Bronco II gas models '83 thnj '93 Taurus & Mercury Sable '86 thru '92

Astro

554 866

'75 thnj '80

& Mercury

('75 thnj '82);

XB-7 & Lincoln

CHEVROLET •1477

Granada & Mercury Monarch Ford & Mercury Mid-size, Cougar

MK Coupe all I

i 1600

626 Sedan & Coupe (rear wheel drive) all models '79 thm '82 626 a MX-6 (front wheel drive) '83 thm B Series Pick-ups '72 thm '93 GLC Hatchback (rear wheel drive) all models '77 thm '83 GLC (front wheel drive) 81 thm '85 MPV all models '89 thm '93 RX-7 all models '79 thm '85 RX-7 all models '86 thm '91

1643 Aerostar Mini-vans '86 thru '92 Bronco and Pick-ups '73 thru '79 Bronco and Pick-ups '80 thru '91 Courier Pick-up all models '72 thru '82 Ford Engine Overhaul Manual Escort/Mercury Lynx '81 thru '90 Escort/Mercury Tracer '91 thru '93 Explorer & Mazda Navajo '91 thru '92 Fairmont & Mercury Zephyr '78 thnj '83 Fiesta all models '77 thru '80 Ford & Mercury Full-size, Ford LTD & lulercury fvtarquis ('75 thnj '82); Ford Custom 500,Country Squire, Crown Victoria & Mercury Colony Park ('75 thru '87); Ford LTD Crown Victoria & Mercury Gran Marquis ('83 thru '87)

Ford Thunderbird

2000

296

239 397 1 027

980

FORD

CADILLAC '751

1

Prix - see GENERAL MOTORS (1671) - see BUICK Full-size (1551) Parisienne - see BUICK Full-size (1551) Phoenix/Oldsmobile Omega '80 thm '84 Sunbird see GENERAL MOTORS (766^ Trans Sport - see GENERAL MOTORS (2035)

RENAULT

648

'68 thru '78

'81

Firebird all models '82 thm '92 Full-size Rear Wheel Drive - see BUICK Oldsmobile. Pontiac Full-size RWD (1551) Full-size Front Wheel Drive - see BUICK Oldsmobile. Pontiac Full-size FWD (1627) Grand Am - see GENERAL MOTORS (1420)

MERCEDES-BENZ

MOTORS (1420) Somerset - see GENERAL

264

MAZDA

460 094 273

.

& Century

1200, 1300. 1500

757

Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser

Mid-size Regal

413

see Mitsubishi Eclipse (2097)

Catalina - see Buick Full-size (1551) Fiero all models '64 thm '88 Firebird V8 models except Turbo '70 thm

PORSCHE

LADA

2047

Buick Estate '70 thnj '90. Electra'70 thnj '84. LeSabre '70 thru '85, Limited '74 thnj '79

627

412

1777

EAGLE

Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale. Ninety Eight and Regency; Pontiac Bonneville Buick Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size (Rear wheel drive)

see Buick Full-size

Brougham - see Buick

Grandville '85

JEEP

1

Buick, Oldsmobile & Pontlac Full-size (Front wheel drive) '85 thru '93 Buick Electra, LeSabre and Pari* Avenue;

gasoline models thnj '93; Trooper, '84 thm '91 all

'78 thai '83

- see DODGE Dart (234) Colt all models '71 thru '77 Colt/Plymouth Champ (front wheel drive)

-

Grand

all

BMW

1232 555 867

'86 thru '93

XJ6 all 6 cyl models '68 thm '86 XJ12 & XJS all 1 2 cyl models '72 thm

'478

Challenger '67-'76

Healey Sprite

models

all

Trooper & Pick-up,

242

all

AUSTIN

Bonneville

Full-size (1551)

Pick-up, '81

400 « 600 - see CHRYSLER Mid-size (1337) Aries & Plymouth Reliant '61 thru '89 Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Mint-Vans models '84 thru '93 Challenger/Plymouth Saporrxi

vehicle,

FWD (1627). RWD (1551)

CVCC all

HYUNDAI

'1641

'723 '1231

'64 thru '91 models '79 thnj '89

your

Bonneville

DODGE

AUDI

models

all

for

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park,

also available

CA 91320

•

(805)

498-6703

CARBON DEPOSITS

NORMAL

Symptoms: Dry

Symptoms: Brown

sooty deposits indicate a rich mixture or weak Ignition. Causes misfiring, hard

and

starting

hesitation.

Recommendation: Check a clogged

for

tan color

and

to grayish-

slight electrode

wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditions.

cleaner, high float

Recommendation: When new

choke and worn igUse a spark plug with a longer core nose for

spark plugs are installed, replace with plugs of the same

air

level, sticky

nition points.

heat range.

greater anti-fouling protection.

ASH DEPOSITS Symptoms:

OIL DEPOSITS

Symptoms: caused by poor

coating

Oily oil

control. Oil

leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings into the is

combustion chamber. Causes hard starting, misfiring and Correct

the mechanical condition with necessary repairs and install new plugs.

TOO HOT Symptoms: absence

Blistered, white

of deposits. Results in life.

Recommendation: Check

for

the correct plug heat range,

over-advanced

ignition timing,

lean fuel mixture, intake manifold vacuum leaks and sticking valves. Check the coolant level and make sure the radiator is not clogged.

may

the spark, causing misfiring and hesitation during accel-

Recommendation:

new valve guide seals to prevent seepage of oil into the combustion chambers. Also try changing gasoline brands.

WORN Symptoms: Rounded

Recommendation: with new plugs of

Recommendation: Check

for

the correct plug heat range,

over-advanced

ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, clogged cooling system and lack of lubrication.

HIGH SPEED GLAZING Symptoms:

Insulator has yellowish, glazed appearance. Indicates that combustion

chamber temperatures have risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to form a conductive coating. Causes misfiring at high

speeds.

Recommendation:

Install

new

plugs. Consider using a colder plug if driving habits warrant.

de-

posits lodge between the electrodes. Heavy deposits accumulate and bridge the elec-

trode gap.

same

Insulators may be cracked or chipped. Improper gap setting techniques can also result in a fractured insulator tip.

Can

lead to piston

damage. Recommendation:

IVIake sure the fuel anti-knock values meet engine requirements. Use care when setting the gaps on new plugs. Avoid lugging the engine.

SPLASHED DEPOSITS Symptoms: of

After long periods misfiring, deposits can

loosen when normal combustion temperature is restored by

an overdue tune-up. At high speeds, deposits flake off the piston and are thrown against the hot insulator, causing misfiring.

Recommendation: Replace the plugs with new ones or clean and reinstall the originals.

MECHANICAL DAMAGE

GAP BRIDGING Symptoms: Combustion

Replace the

heat range.

DETONATION

engine

elec-

trodes with a small amount of deposits on the firing end. Normal color. Causes hard starting in damp or cold weather and poor fuel economy.

Symptoms:

to

exces-

stall

PREIGNITION

chamber. Can lead damage.

If

sive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, in-

Symptoms: Melted

electrodes. Insulators are white, but may be dirty due to misfiring or flying debris in the combustion

t

Excessive amounts

mask

in-

eroded electrode and

shortened plug

»l

tives.

eration.

hesition.

Recommendation:

sulator,

Light brown deposits encrusted on the side or center electrodes or both. Derived from oil and/or fuel addi-

The plug ceases to in a dead cyl-

Symptoms: May be caused by a foreign object

in

the

combus-

tion chamber or the piston striking an incorrect reach (too

long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder and could result in piston

resulting inder.

damage.

Recommendation: Locate the

Recommendation:

faulty plug

and remove the deposits from between the elec-

the foreign object from the engine and/or install the correct

trodes.

reach plug.

fire,

Remove

jivery

manual based on a complete teardown and •"Twr

,V-.^>;r.^^^^!^i_'-^

rebuild!

V, ,

^^

Haynes mechanic, author and photographer with Mitsubishi Galant

m^rm

"'.!

."''

.N

Models covered by ":ffM

-:--.^

_

this

manual:

Cordia & Tredia (1983 thru 1988), Precis (1987 thru 1993) Mirage (1985 thru 1992), Galant (1985 thru 1987, 1989 thru 1993) Does not include V6 engine or all-wheel drive information

i

Haynes Manuals Explain • • • • •

Best:

step-by-step procedures linked to hundreds of easy-to-follow photos using common tools Written from "hands-on" experience Quick and easy troubleshooting sections Detailed wiring diagrams Color spark plug diagnosis .

.

.

ISBN

1

56392 091