Haynes Honda Prelude Automotive Repair Manual 1850106290, 9781850106296

Citation preview

HONDA PRELUDE 1979 thru 1989

o All

models

Automotive Repai^/lanual

£]bet;i

Digitized by the Internet Archive in

2010

http://www.archive.org/details/hondapreludeautoOOjone

Honda Prelude

Automotive Repair

Manual by Ray M Jones, Ken Freund and John H Haynes Member

of the Guild of

Motormg Writers

Models covered: Honda Prelude models

All

1979 through 1989

(2X5- 60 h

A A5SCCUT1C3N

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil

Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California

91320 USA

Inc

Acknowledgements

We

are grateful for the help and cooperation of the Champion Spark Plug Company who supplied the illustrations of various

spark plug conditions. Technical writers project include

who

contributed to this

Mike Stubbiefield, Larry Warren and Bob Hender-

son.

©

Haynes North America,

Inc.

1990

With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co, Ud-

A book

in

the

Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series

Printed in the

USA

reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright All rights

holder

ISBN1 85010 629 Library of

Congress Catalog Card Number 90-80427

is made to ensure that the information in this correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors In, or omis-

While every attempt

manual

Is

sions from, the Information given.

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Honda Prelude Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working Booster battery (jump) starting Jacking and towing Automotive chemicals and lubricants Safety

first!

Conversion factors Troubleshooting

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

5

5

6 8 facilities

8 15 15 17 18 19 20

About

this

manual

purpose

Its

The purpose

manual

you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide v^^hat work must be done, even you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to folof this

is

to help

if

numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that section. That

is,

illustration 3.2

means

the illustration

;

low

when

We

hope you use the manual

simpler jobs, doing

it

and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When its necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word "Chapter" apply to Sections and'or paragraphs in the same refers to Section 3

trouble occurs.

yourself

to tackle the

work

may be quicker than

yourself. For

many

arranging an appoint-

ment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the tnps to leave and pick up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you it

it

feel after

left

means

in

same Chapter. assume you are sitting

the

or right side of the vehicle

the driver s seat, facing forward.

Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care,

Using the manual is

References to the in

doing the job yourself.

The manual

Chapter. For example, "see Section 8"

neither

the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors

divided into Chapters.

Each Chapter

is

divided into

in,

or

omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution Caution

is

provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning Warning

is

provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the Honda Prelude models

are available

in

Honda Prelude

two-door coupe body styles

The transversely mounted inline four-cylinder engines used in these models are equipped with either carburetors or port-type fuel injection. Some later models feature three and four valves per cylinder. The engine drives the front wheels through either a five-speed manual or a three or four-speed automatic transaxle via

Independent suspension, featuring four wheels.

only.

independent driveaxles.

The rack and

coil

spnng/strut units,

used

at all

is

Power assisted steering is available models feature four wheel steering. The brakes are disc at the front with drums or discs (on at the rear. Power assisted brakes are standard.

gine.

is

mounted behind the enon most models. Some later

pinion steering unit

later

models)

Vehicle identification Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process

manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and merical basis, the individual vehicle identify the

component

numbers

vehicle

in

lists

are compiled on a nu-

numbers are

essential to correctly

required.

Vehicle Identification tached to the

left

of the vehicle

VIN

Number (VIN)

This very important identification

number

is

stamped on a

plate at-

side cowling just inside the windshield on the driver's side

as well as on the

firewall

(see illustration). The VIN also

NUMBER

(US MODEL)

IDENTIFICATION PLATE (B

MODEL)

TRANSMISSION NUMBER

(MANUAL

IDENTIFICATION PLATE (A

MODEL)

l>/i*fH

CHASSIS NUMBER (ALL MODELS)

ENGINE NUMBER (1979 through 1985)

Number

TRANSMISSION NUMBER (HONDAMATIC 2 SPEED) locations

5

SPEED)

Vehicle identification

This

is

what the engine number looks model shown)

appears on the Vehicle

Certificate of Title

formation such as where and

when

like

(1979 through 1985

and Registration.

the vehicle

It

contains

was manufactured,

This

in-

the

and

numbers

is

what the transaxle number looks like transaxle shown)

later

models,

model year and the body style.

or the

Engine number

Transaxle

The engine number on right rear side of

979 through 1 985 models is stamped on the the engine block just below the cylinder head. On 1 986 1

it's

The number is also left

front

stamped on the pillar (earlier

model manual

right front side of the

located on a tag on the

door

(early

left

engine block.

inner fender (later models)

models) (see illustration).

number

The transaxle number is stamped on the top of the transaxle housing and is visible in the engine compartment (see illustration).

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts

fall

is

into

as follows:

Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have con-

venient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from

home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, tnm pieces, etc.). Warranty information: If the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, possible, take the old parts along for positive if

identification.

Maintenance tectiniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques

with nylon or fiber inserts

There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

lose their locking ability

can only be used once. If they are removed, they and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed it

with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores.

Fasteners

If

Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost

all

of

them use a locking device

of

lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. ers should be clean

and

straight, with

some All

type, either a

threaded fasten-

undamaged threads and undam-

aged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts

of replacing

a bolt or stud breaks off

with a special tool

in

commonly

an assembly,

it

can be drilled and removed

available for this purpose. Most automotive

machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stnpped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or

plastic.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

facilities

Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider

used on a standard

and wider use

out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt,

tell tfie

of metric fasteners. Therefore,

difference

it

is

important to be able to

between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and

All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2-13x1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 1 3 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An Ml 2 - 1 .75

25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. X

addition to the differences

in

diameter, thread pitch and length, met-

and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head ric

is

measured

in

inches, while the

same

same dimension on a As a

metric bolt

is

sized

a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be in

millimeters (the

is

Grade

true for nuts).

1

result,

Identification

bolts

have slashes

is

an indication

it.

indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt.

Class

Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and

1

0.9 are

commonly used on au-

tomobiles.

Strength marie spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Scribe

Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16,

1/8, 3/16-inch) Steel rule/straightedge - 12 inch

Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or 4

A

selection of

mm to

10

mm)

files

Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type) is often useful is an electric drill motor with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

Note: Another tool which

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so makes sense it

spect.

Special tools

The tools

in this list

include those which are not used regularly, are ex-

pensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not

many

very economical to purchase

of

them.

A

consideration would be to

between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary

split

the cost and use

basis.

This

list

and instruments widely and not those special tools produced by the vehicle

primarily contains only those tools

available to the public,

facilities

manufacturer fordistribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer's special tools are included

in

the text of

manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department

this

Keep them clean and

in

to treat

them

with re-

usable condition and store them properly

when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips t)efore putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been

left

there so they won't get lost during a test drive.

Some tools,

such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable you do. if

if

special tool

or

Working

facilities

Piston ring compressor

be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be earned out. some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an en-

Piston ring installation tool

gine or doing major repairs outside.

an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Cylinder compression

lifter

removal

Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set light (inductive

pick-up)

Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump

fluids,

cleaning solvents, etc.

antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose.

Tachometer/dwell meter

newspapers and clean rags available. Old spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Always keep a supply

Universal electrical multimeter

of old

towels are excellent for mopping up

Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

surface, such as when leaning over something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish .Vinyl covered pads, made espe-

Whenever working over a painted

Buying tools

a fender

For the do-it-yourselfer

that the

which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old

Universal-type puller

maintenance and

recommended, however,

quired for tools, as well as the lubricants,

tool

separator

Stroboscopic timing

is

The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also re-

gauge

l^icrometers and/or dial calipers Balljoint

It

solute necessity.

Cylinder surfacing hone

Hydraulic

to

overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an ab-

gauge

Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder bore

Not

who

is just

repair, there are

starting to get involved in vehicle

a number of options available

when

to service

cially for this

purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

Booster battery (jump) starting Certain precautions must be observed to start a)

a vehicle: Before connecting the booster switch

is in

when

battery,

using a booster battery

make

sure the ignition

the Off position.

off the lights, heater and other electncal loads. Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one

b)

Turn

c)

in

e) f)

the vehicle.

The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other! Make sure the transmission is in Neutral (manual)

or Park (auto-

matic). g)

If

the booster battery

is

not a maintenance-free type,

remove the

vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes.

Connect the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals

of

each

bat-

tery.

Connect one end of the

of the black jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to

a good ground on the vehicle

to

be

the engine block (see illustration).

started,

such as a

bolt or bracket

on

Make sure the cable will not come into

contact with the fan. drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery

engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine run-

ning at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables

in

the reverse order of

order

NOT

connection.

is

attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

Jacking and towing Jacking

tempt to tighten them completely

Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while the jack is t>eing used as the only means of support.

off

The

vehicle must be on a level surface with the wheels blocked

and

Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual). Apply the parking brake if the front of the vehicle must be raised. Make sure no one is in the vehicle as it's being raised with the jack. Remove the jack, lug nut wrench and spare tire (if needed) from the vehicle. Loosen the lug nuts or bolts one-half turn, but leave them in place the transaxle

until

the

in

tire is

raised

off

the ground.

There

s

a front and rear jacking point on each side

(see illustration). Turn the jack handle clockwise

of the ve-

hicle

move

until

the vehicle

is

lowered or

it

could

slip

to lower the vehicle. Remove a criss-cross pattern. If possible, tighten them with a torque wrench (see Chapter 1 for the torque figures). If you don't have access to a torque wrench, have the nuts/bolts checked

Turn the jack handle counterclockwise

the jack and tighten the lug nuts or bolts

in

by a service station or repair shop as soon as possible. Stow the tire, jack and wrench and unblock the wheels.

Towing As a general wheels

off

rule,

the ground.

the vehicle should be towed with the front (drive)

Be sure

to release the parking brake.

If

the vehicle

being towed with the front wheels on the ground, place the transaxle in Neutral. Also, the ignition key must be in the position, since the steering is

Position the jack under the vehicle at the indicated jacking point (see illustration).

until

the jack.

the

tire

clears the ground, then re-

and replace it with the spare. Note: Some models are equipped with a "compact' spare, which is intended for temporary use only. Never exceed 50 mph when it's on the vehicle, and have the regular tire repaired and installed as soon as possible. Reposition the wheel cover. Replace the lug nuts or bolts with the beveled edges facing in and tighten them snugly. Don't atthe lug nuts or bolts and wheel cover. Pull the

tire off

I

mechanism isn't strong enough to hold the front wheels straight while towing. Do not exceed 35 mph or tow for distances over 50 miles with the lock

wheels on the ground. Equipment specifically designed for towing should be used. It should be attached to the tow hooks (see illustration), not the bumpers or brack-

front

ets.

a major consideration when towing and all applicable state A safety chain must be used at all times. Remember that power steering and brakes won't work with the engine off. Safety

and

local

is

laws must be obeyed.

16

Jacking and towing

o/H^H

FRONT JACKING POINT

REAR JACKING POINT Jacking points

Make sure the notches In the jack head are aligned with the flange on the body at the jacking point before taking the weight off the suspension with the jack

Attach the tow chain or strap to the tow hooks on the vehicle - never attach it to the bumpers

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and

during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of

Heat-sink grease\s a special electrically non-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that

products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and

heat

protective sprays for rubber, plastic

and

lubricants are available for

use

is

transferred

away from

the module.

vinyl.

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner

is

a strong solvent

for

gum,

varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-type lubricant

Sealants RTV sealant is one of the most widely used gasket compounds. Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface it

not recom-

remains flexible, doesn't shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets.

Brake system cleaner [s used to remove grease and brake fluid from where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contami-

Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sea-

film

which

mended

not harden or gum up. Because of use on electhcal components.

will

for

this film

is

it

the brake system,

nants.

lant

Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits

from electrical contacts, restoring clean spark plugs, carburetor

where an

oil-free

surface

is

can also be used to voltage regulators and other parts

full

jets,

current flow.

It

desired.

Demolsturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable.

Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used

to

remove grease from the

outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water

Motor oH\s the lubncant formulated for use

in

engines.

It

normally con-

a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have char-

tains

acteristics of both light

5W-20

to

Gear oil is designed

and heavy 20W-50. to

be used

oils

and are available

in differentials,

and other areas where high-temperature

in

a number of

manual transmissions

lubrication

is

required.

Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints. High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly). which is a dry-type lubricant.

White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -1 00 to ^1 90-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water.

Assembly lube

is

a special extreme pressure

lubricant, usually con-

main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the

taining moly,

oiling

and an RTV-type sealant

is in

the curing.

RTV cures when exposed to

while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This

that

an anaerobic sealant cures only

them

after the

assembly

means

of parts, sealing

together.

Thread and pipe sealant \s used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals >ln//-se/zeco/npoundprevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and in fasteners. High-temperature anti-seize. usually made with copper and graphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system and exhaust manifold bolts.

Lubricants

weights from

air.

corrosion

or solvent.

engine

irregularities,

used to

lubricate high-load parts (such as

system begins

to function.

Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber,

plastic, vinyl

and nylon

Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from viand cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. High-strength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren't removed on a regular basis. brating or working loose

Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treat-

ments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. It

Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that helpdissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid\s specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or

dirt.

Weatherstrip adhesive doors,

windows and trunk

is

lids.

used to bond weatherstripping around is sometimes used to attach trim pieces.

It

Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle.

Waxes and polishes are used

parts.

to help protect

painted and plated sur-

Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the

faces from the weather Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or

ignition switch.

variety of chemicals

Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, teners and prevent future rusting or freezing.

rusted and corroded fas-

abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide

such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

Safety

first!

Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential

DON'T

DOs and DON'Ts

on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON'T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack — it may fall. DON'T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON'T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system — let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON'T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you. DON'T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale brake lining dust — it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below) DON'T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON'T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON'T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component alone — get someone to rely

help you. DON'T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON'T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it.

DO

wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts.

DO make adequate

sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating for the job.

DO get someone to

check on you periodically when working alone on

a vehicle.

DO carry out is

work

in

a logical

sequence and make sure that everything

correctly assembled and tightened.

DO

keep chemicals and

fluids tightly

capped and out

by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water. circuit,

electricity built

Torch (flashlight in the US) Any reference to a "torch" appearing in this manual should always be taken to mean a hand-held, battery-operated electric light or flashlight. DOES NOT mean a welding or propane torch or blowtorch. It

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area.

When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results. The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near a battery. They normally give off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive.

Always disconnect the battery ground working on the

(-)

cable at the battery before

systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenancefree batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may fuel or electrical

burst.

Take care when adding water

to a non maintenance-free battery and carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

when

of the reach of

children and pets.

DO remember others.

If

in

that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and doubt on any point, get professional advice.

Mains electricity (household current in the US) When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., operates on household current, always

Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products — such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. — contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.

Secondary A

Fire

Remember

at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short

or

which

make

ignition

system voltage

severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

Conversion factors Length (distance) Inches Feet

(in)

(ft)

Miles

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in') Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US

quarts

(US

qt)

Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

US

gallons

(US

gal)

X X X

25.4 0.305 1.609

X X X X X X X X

16.387 0.568 1.137

(mm)

Millimetres

X X X

Metres (m) Kilometres (km)

Cubic centimetres Litres Litres

(cc;

cm')

0.0394

3281 0.621

0.061 1.76

(I)

0.88 0.833 1.057 0.22 0.833 0.264

(I)

1.201

US

0.946 4.546

Litres

(I)

Litres

(I)

1.201

US

3.785

Litres

X X

28.35 0.454

Grams

Kilograms (kg)

0.035 2.205

X X X

0.278 4.448

Newtons (N) Newtons (N)

0.225

X

0.070

= Kilograms-force

14.223

0.068

per square centimetre (kgf/cm^ kg/cm') (atm)

X

X

= Atmospheres

X

14.696

X

0.069

=

Bars

X

14.5

X

6.895

=

Kilopascals (kPa)

X

0.145

= Kilograms-force

X

981

= =

X X

68.947

quarts

gallons

(US

qt)

(US

gal)

(I)

Mass (weight) Ounces Pounds

(oz) (lb)

(g)

Force Ounces-force Pounds-force

(ozf; oz) (Ibf: lb) '

Newtons (N)

3.6

Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

0.1

9.81

Pressure Pounds-force per square inch (psi: Ibf/in': lb/in')

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; Ibf/in'; lb/in')

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; lbf/in^ Ib/in^)

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; Ibf/in^ Ib/in^)

Kilopascals (kPa)

X

Millibar (mbar)

X X

Millibar (mbar)

01

100 0.0145

per square centimetre (kgf/cm^; kg/cm^) Pascals (Pa) Pounds-force per square inch

0.01

(psi; Ibf/in^ lb/in')

Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar)

Millimetres of mercury

(mmHg)

Inches of water (inH^O)

X X X X

0.75 0.401

0.535 0.036

= Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) = Inches of water (inHjO) = Inches of water (inH^O) = Pounds-force per square inch

X X X X

(psi; Ibf/in^ lb/in')

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force inches

X

1.152

X

0.113

Kilograms-force centimetre (kgf cm; kg cm) Newton metres (Nm)

X

0.083

Pounds-force feet

(Ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force inches

(Ibf

(Ibf in; lb in)

(Ibf

ft;

lb ft)

X

Pounds-force feet (Ibf Newton metres (Nm)

ft;

lb ft)

XI .356

Pounds-force feet

X

0.1

38

0.102

Kilograms-force metres (kgf m; kg m) Newton metres (Nm) Kilograms-force metres (kgf m; kg m)

ft;

lb ft)

X

1.333 2.491

1.868 27.68

Troubleshooting Contents

Symptom

Section

Engine Engine backfires Engine diesels (continues to run) after switchiing Engine fiard to start wfien cold Engine hard to start when hot Engine lacks power Engine lopes while idling or idles erratically Engine misses at idle speed Engine misses throughout driving speed range Engine rotates but will not start Engine runs with oil pressure light on Engine stalls Engine starts but stops immediately Engine stumbles on acceleration Engine surges while holding accelerator steady Engine will not rotate when attempting to start Oil puddle under engine Pinging or knocking engine sounds during

off

3 4

Noisy

in

one

Engine

electrical

Vibration

9 10

Automatic transaxle

11

Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral Fluid leakage General shift mechanism problems Transaxle fluid brown or has burned smell Transaxle slips, shifts roughly, is noisy or has no drive in fonward or reverse gears

12

Transaxle

2

17 13

6

1

pressed

will

engagement

Driveaxles

5

Clicking noise

in

turns

vibration during acceleration

Vibration at highway

19 is

turned on

21

22 23

Cooling system Coolant loss

28 26 27 25 24 29

External coolant leakage

leakage

Overcooling

Overheating Poor coolant circulation

speeds

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

36

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase vehicle speed)

Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged High pedal effort Noise in clutch area Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very to select

gears

little

resistance

31

Manual transaxle Clicking noise

in

turns

Clunk on acceleration or deceleration Knocking noise at low speeds Leaks lubricant

41

40 38 48

61

60 63 58 66 57

68 73 78 75

tires

Erratic steering

when

braking

Excessive pitching and/or

32 33 37 35 30 34

64 65 59 62

Suspension and steering systems

Cupped

Clutch pedal stays on floor

rattling (clicking)

54 55 56

Brakes Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed Brake pedal travels to the floor with little resistance Brake roughness or chatter (pedal pulsates) Dragging brakes Excessive brake pedal travel Excessive pedal effort required to stop vehicle Grabbing or uneven braking action Noise (high-pitched squeal when the brakes are applied) Parking brake does not hold

Abnormal or excessive tire wear Abnormal noise at the front end

Clutch

Unable

51

20

Excessive fuel consumption Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor

Transaxle

53

not downshift with accelerator pedal

to the floor

16

Fuel system

in

52 48 50 49

7

fails to

Internal coolant

39 45 43 44 46 42

8

system

go out Battery will not hold a charge Alternator light fails to come on when key

particular gear

Slips out of gear

Shudder or Alternator light

Section

14

acceleration or uphill Starter motor noisy or excessively rough in

15 18

Symptom Noise most pronounced when turning Noisy in all gears Noisy in neutral with engine running

rolling

around corners or

during braking

Excessive play or looseness in steehng system Excessive tire wear on inside edge Excessive tire wear on outside edge

Hard steering Poor returnability

76 82 80 79 71

of steering to center

Rattling or clicking noise

in

rack and pinion

Shimmy, shake or vibration Suspension bottoms Tire tread worn in one place Vehicle pulls to one side

Wander or poor steering stability Wheel makes a thumping noise

72 83 70 77 81

67 74 69

21

Troubleshooting This section provides an easy reference guide to the more connmon problems which may occur during the operation of your vehicle. These problems and their possible causes are grouped under headings denoting various components or systems, such as Engine, Cooling system, etc. They also refer you to the chapter and/or section which deals with the

problem.

Remember that

successful troubleshooting

art practiced only by professional mechanics.

It

is

not a mysterious black

is

simply the result of the

knowledge combined with an intelligent, systematic approach to the problem. Always work by a process of elimination, starting with the simplest solution and working through to the most complex - and never overlook the obvious. Anyone can run the gas tank dry or leave the lights on overnight, so don't assume that you are exempt from such oversights. Finally, always establish a clear idea of why a problem has occurred and take steps to ensure that doesn't happen again. If the electrical system fails because of a poor connection, check the other connections in the system to make sure that they don't fail as well. If a particular fuse continues to blow, find out why - don't just replace one fuse after another. Remember, failure of a small component can often be indicative of potential failure or incorrect functioning of a more important component or system. right

4

1

Engine hard Air

to start

when

clogged (Chapter

filter

hot

1).

2

Fuel not reaching the carburetor or fuel injection system (Chapter 4).

3

Corroded battery connections, especially ground (Chapter

5

motor noisy or excessively rough

Starter

in

1 ).

engagement

1

Pinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken (Chapter

2

Starter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5).

5).

it

6

1

Engine starts but stops immediately Loose or

faulty electrical

connections at

distributor, coil or alternator

(Chapters).

2

Insufficient fuel

and

4).

3

Vacuum

throttle

reaching the carburetor or fuel injector(s) (Chapters

between the intake manifold/plenum and

leak at the gasket

body (Chapters

and

1

1

4).

Engine 7 1

Engine

will

not rotate

when attempting

Oil

puddle under engine

to start 1

Oil

2

Oil

pan gasket and/or

oil

pan dram

bolt

washer leaking (Chapter

Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 1 ). Automatic transaxle not completely engaged in Park (Chapter 7) or clutch not completely depressed (Chapter 8). 4 Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit (Chapters

3

pressure sending unit leaking (Chapter Cylinder head cover leaking (Chapter 2).

4

Engine

Sand

8

1

Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter

1 ).

2 3

12).

jammed

flywheel ring gear (Chapter

5

Starter motor pinion

6

Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5).

7

Starter motor faulty (Chapter 5).

8

Ignition switch faulty

9

Starter pinion or flywheel teeth

in

(Chapter

1

2). 5).

2 3 4 tion

5

2

Engine rotates but

will

6 7

not start

1

Fuel tank empty.

2

Battery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter S).

3

Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter

4

Leakingfuel injector(s), faulty carburetor, fuel pump, pressure regula-

tor, etc.

(Chapter

9

or carburetor (Chapter 4).

5

Fuel not reaching fuel

7

components damp or damaged (Chapter S). Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter

8

Broken, loose or disconnected wihng

rail

Ignition

in

idling or idles erratically

Vacuum leakage (Chapters Leaking Airfilter

Fuel

EGR

clogged (Chapter

pump

2 and 4).

valve (Chapter

6).

1).

not delivering sufficient fuel to the carburetor or fuel injec-

system (Chapter 4). Leaking head gasket (Chapter 2). Timing belt andor pulleys worn (Chapter Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2).

Engine misses

at idle

2).

speed

1 ).

4).

6

Engine lopes while

2).

5). 1

worn or broken (Chapter

seals leaking (Chapter

oil

2).

2).

1 ).

1

Spark plugs worn or not gapped properly (Chapter

2

Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter

3

Vacuum

4

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter

5

Uneven

leaks (Chapter or low

1 ).

1 ).

1 ). 1 ).

compression (Chapter

2).

the starting circuit (Chap-

ter S).

changing

ignition timing

(Chapter

9

Loose distnbutor

1

Broken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition

is

S).

coil

10

3

Engine hard to

start

when

cold

Engine misses throughout driving speed range

or faulty coil

(Chapters).

clogged and or impurities

the fuel system (Chapter

1

Fuel

filter

2

Low

fuel output at the injector(s) or carburetor

3 4

Faulty or incorrectly

5

Cracked distributor cap, disconnected distributor wires or damaged components (Chapters 1 and 5).

in

(Chapter

gapped spark plugs (Chapter

1 ).

4).

1 ).

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter S).

distributor 1

Battery discharged or low (Chapter

2

ivlalfunctioning fuel

3

Faulty cold start injector (Chapter 4).

4

(Chapter 4). carbon tracked (Chapter 5). Carburetor choke not operating properly (Chapter

5 6

Leaking spark plug wires (Chapters 1 or 5). Faulty emission system components (Chapter 6). Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures (Chapter 2). 8 9 Weak or faulty ignition system (Chapter 5). Vacuum leak in fuel injection system, carburetor, intake manifold, 1 control valve or vacuum hoses (Chapter 4).

6

1 ).

system (Chapter

7

4).

Injector(s) leaking

Distributor rotor

1 ).

air

1 2

)

22

Troubleshooting

Engine stumbles on acceleration

11

)

16

Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration or uphill

Spark plugs fouled (Chapter 1 ). Fuel injection system or carburetor needs adjustment or repair

1

2

(Chapter

4).

clogged (Chapters 1 and 4). Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5). Intake manifold air leak (Chapters 2 and Fuel

3

4 5

filter

1

Incorrect grade of fuel.

2 3

Ignition timing incorrect

(Chapter

Fuel injection system

need

4 5 6 7

4).

17

1

Intake air leak (Chapter 4).

2

Fuel

3

Loose

pump

faulty

(Chapter

fuel injector wire

Engine

13

4).

5).

adjustment (Chapter

4).

damaged spark plugs or wires (Chapter 1 Worn or damaged distributor components (Chapter 5). Improper or

).

Faulty emission system (Chapter 6).

Vacuum

leak (Chapters 2 and 4).

harness connectors (Chapter

4).

Idle

2

1

Low Idle

3 4 5

Short

Fuel

incorrect (Chapter

5

filter 1

Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter

6

14

1

2

Valve clearances incorrectly set (Chapter

Incorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).

Excessive play

in

distributor shaft

(Chapter

Faulty coil (Chapter

4).

1

1

15

2).

pump

(Chapter

2).

Engine diesels (continues to run)

after switching off

Idle speed too high (Chapter 1 ). Excessive engine operating temperature (Chapter

electrical

3).

system

Battery will not hold a charge

1

Alternator drivebelt defective or not adjusted properly (Chapter

2

Battery electrolyte level low (Chapter

3

Battery terminals loose or corroded (Chapter Alternator not charging properly (Chapter 5).

5

Loose, broken or faulty wiring

6 7

Short

in

1

1 ).

4

filter

20

1

5).

Clutch slipping (Chapter

and

oil

1 ).

the charging circuit (Chapter 5).

vehicle wiring (Chapter 12).

in

Internally defective battery

(Chapters

1

and

5).

5).

Brakes binding (Chapter 9). Automatic transaxle fluid level incorrect (Chapter Fuel

pressure sender (Chapter

rotor, distributor

7

1

1

2

19

6

8 9

1 ).

2).

1).

Engine lacks power

Worn

oil

1

carburetor, intake manifold

cap or wires (Chapters 1 and 5). 4 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1 ). Fuel injection system or carburetor out of adjustment or excessively 5 worn (Chapter 4). 3

Faulty

1 ).

wiring circuit (Chapter

in

on

light

specification (Chapter

Worn engine bearings and/or

Engine

1 ).

Vacuum leak in the fuel injection system, vacuum hoses (Chapters 2 and 4).

8

(Chapter

level

rpm below

pressure

1 ).

clogged and/or water and impurities in the fuel system and 4). Distributor components damp or damaged (Chapter 5). Faulty emissions system components (Chapter 6). Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1 ).

3 4

oil

oil

stalls

speed

(Chapters

Engine runs with

2

18 1

or

of

Engine surges while holding accelerator steady

12

7

in

2 3

1 ).

Alternator light fails to

go out

Faulty alternator or charging circuit (Chapter

5).

Alternator drivebelt defective or out of adjustment (Chapter Alternator voltage regulator inoperative (Chapter

1 ).

5).

8).

clogged and/or impurities

in

the fuel system (Chapters

1

21

Alternator light fails to

come on when key

is

turned on

Emission control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures (Chapter 2). 1

Warning

2

Fault in the printed circuit,

light

bulb defective (Chapter 12).

dash wihng or bulb holder (Chapter

12).

Engine backfires

Fuel system Emission control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6). 2 Ignition timing incorrect (Chapter 5). Faulty secondary ignition system (cracked spark plug insulator, faulty 3 plug wires, distributor cap and/or rotor) (Chapters 1 and 5). 4 Fuel injection system or carburetor in need of adjustment or worn excessively (Chapter 4). Vacuum leak at fuel injector(s) carburetor, intake manifold, air control 5 valve or vacuum hoses (Chapters 2 and 4). Valve clearances incorrectly set and/or valves sticking (Chapter 1 6 1

,

22

1

Excessive

Dirty or

fuel

clogged

consumption air filter

element (Chapter

1 ).

2

Incorrectly set ignition timing (Chapter 5).

3

Emissions system not functioning properly (Chapter

4

Fuel injection or carburetor internal parts excessively worn or dam-

aged (Chapter 5

Low

tire

4).

pressure or incorrect

tire

size (Chapter

1 ).

6).

23

Troubleshooting Clutch 23

Fuel leakage and or fuel odor

30

and

1

Leaking

2

Tank

3

Evaporative canister

4

Fuel injector internal parts excessively worn (Chapter

fuel

feed or return

line

(Chapters

1

overfilled. filter

clogged (Chapters

1

and

1

6).

little

resistance

2

Broken clutch cable (Chapter 8). Broken release bearing or fork (Chapter

8).

4).

31

Cooling system 24

Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very

4).

Unable

to select

gears

1

Faulty transaxle (Chapter

2 3 4

Faulty clutch disc (Chapter

5

Pressure plate-to-flywheel

7).

8).

Fork and bearing not assembled properly (Chapter

8).

Faulty pressure plate (Chapter 8). tx)lts

loose (Chapter

8).

Overheating Insufficient coolant in system (Chapter 1 ). Water pump drivebelt defective or out of adjustment (Chapter

Radiator core blocked or

Thermostat

grille restricted

(Chapter

faulty

(Chapter

3).

Radiator cap not maintaining proper pressure (Chapter

3).

(Chapter

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase In vehicle speed)

3).

3).

Electnc coolant fan blades broken or cracked (Chapter Ignition timing incorrect

32 1 ).

5).

1

Clutch plate worn (Chapter

2

Clutch plate

3

Clutch plate

one

to seat.

8).

soaked by leaking rear main seal (Chapter 8). not seated. It may take 30 or 40 nomial starts for a new is oil

4

Warped pressure

plate or flywheel (Chapter 8).

5

Weak diaphragm

spring (Chapter 8).

6

Clutch plate overheated. Allow to cool.

Overcooling

1

Faulty thermostat (Chapter 3).

2

Inaccurate temperature gauge sending unit (Chapter 3)

33

1

2

3 4

27

Deteriorated damaged hoses: loose clamps (Chapters 1 and 3). Water pump seal defective (Chapter 3). Leakage from radiator core or coolant reservoir bottle (Chapter 3). Engine dram or water jacket core plugs leaking (Chapter 2).

Internal coolant leakage

1

Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chapter

2

Cracked cylinder

28

1

2

3 4

txjre or cylinder

Worn or loose engine or transaxle mounts (Chapters 2 and 7). Worn splines on clutch plate hub (Chapter 8). Warped pressure plate or flywheel (Chapter 8). Burned or smeared resin on flywheel or pressure plate (Chapter

5

34

lining,

Transaxle rattling (clicking)

1

Release

2

Clutch plate

damper spnng

3

Low engine

idle

fork loose (Chapter 8). failure

speed (Chapter

(Chapter

8).

1 ).

2).

head (Chapter

2).

35

Coolant loss

Noise

in

clutch area

1

Fork shaft improperly installed (Chapter

2

Faulty bearing (Chapter 8).

8).

Too much coolant

in system (Chapter 1 ). Coolant boiling away because of overheating (Chapter Internal or external leakage (Chapter 3). Faulty radiator cap (Chapter 3).

36

3).

Clutch pedal stays on floor

Broken clutch cable (Chapter 8). Broken release beanng or fork (Chapter

8).

Poor coolant circulation 37

3

4

Thermostat sticking (Chapter

Inoperative water

High pedal effort

pump

(Chapter 3). Restnction in cooling system (Chapters 1 and 3). Water pump drivebelt defective out of adjustment (Chapter

2

burned or glazed facings (Chapter

Oil

1

1

engaged

1

2

29

on clutch plate

is

2

3 4

External coolant leakage

Grabbing (chattering) as clutch

3)

1 1 ).

2 3

Piston binding

in txjre

(Chapter

8).

Pressure plate faulty (Chapter 8). Incorrect size master or release cylinder (Chapter 8)

8).

8).

24

Troubleshooting

Manual transaxle Leaks lubricant

47 38

Knocking noise

at

low speeds

3

Side gear shaft seals worn (Chapter 8). Excessive amount of lubricant in transaxle (Chapters 1 and 7A). Loose or broken input gear shaft bearing retainer (Chapter 7A).*

4

Input gear bearing retainer 0-ring and/or

1

1

2

Worn Worn

driveaxle constant velocity (CV) joints (Chapter side gear shaft counterbore

in differential

2

8).

case (Chapter 7A).

lip

seal

damaged (Chap-

ter7A).*

39

Noise most pronounced when turning Differential

gear noise (Chapter 7A).*

Automatic transaxle Note Due to the complexity of the automatic transaxle, It Is difficult for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and sen/Ice this component. For problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a dealer :

40

Clunk on acceleration or deceleration

or transmission shop. 1

2 3

4

Loose engine or transaxle mounts (Chapters 2 and

Worn Worn Worn

7A).

differential pinion shaft in case.*

side gear shaft counterbore or

damaged

in differential

driveaxle inboard

CV joints

case (Chapter 7A).

(Chapter

48

Fluid leakage.

8). 1 Automatic transaxle fluid is a deep red color. Fluid leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown onto the transaxle by

41

Clicking noise in turns

air flow.

2

Worn

or

damaged outboard CV joint (Chapter

To pinpoint a

leak,

first

remove

all

built-up dirt

and grime from the

Then speeds so air flow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine where the leak is coming from. transaxle housing with degreasing agents and/or steam cleaning.

8).

drive the vehicle at low

42

1

Rough

2

Damaged

3

Out

4

Tire out of

5

Common

Vibration

v^heel bearing (Chapters

1

and

areas

of

Pan (Chapters

b)

Transaxle

c)

Speed sensor (Chapter

10).

1

2

44

1

and

7)

(Chapter

lines

oil

7)

7)

driveaxle (Chapter 8).

round tires (Chapter 1 ). balance (Chapters 1 and Worn CV joint (Chapter 8). of

1

0).

49

Transaxle fluid brown or has a burned smell

Transaxle

43

leakage are:

a)

Noisy

in neutral

Damaged Damaged

Noisy

in

fluid

burned (Chapter

1).

with engine running

input gear bearing (Chapter 7A).*

50

General

shift

mechanism problems

clutch release bearing (Chapter 8).

one

1 Chapter 7, Pan B, deals with checking and adjusting the shift linkage on automatic transaxles. Common problems which may be attributed to

particular gear

poorly adjusted linkage are:

2

Damaged Damaged

3

Bent reverse fork (Chapter 7A).*

4

Damaged fourth speed gear or output gear (Chapter 7A).* Worn or damaged reverse idler gear or idler bushing (Chapter

1

5

45

Noisy

worn constant mesh gears (Chapter or worn synchronizers (Chapter 7A).* or

in all

7A).*

2

starting in

on

gears other than Park or Neutral. a gear other than the one actually

shifter pointing to

Vehicle

moves when

Refer to Chapter 7B

in

Park.

for the shift linkage

adjustment procedure.

7A).

51

Transaxle

will

not downshift

Throttle valve cable out of adjustment (Chapter 7B).

(Chapter 7A).

Insufficient lubricant

Damaged or worn bearings (Chapter 7A).* Worn or damaged input gear shaft and/or output gear

shaft (Chap-

ter 7A).-

52

Engine

will start in

gears other than Park or Neutral

Neutral start switch malfunctioning (Chapter 7B).

Slips out of gear

Worn

2

or improperly adjusted linkage (Chapter 7A). Transaxle loose on engine (Chapter 7A).

3

Shift linkage

4

Input gear bearing retainer broken or loose (Chapter 7A).*

1

Indicator

being used.

gears

1

46

Engine

b)

c)

2 3

a)

does not work

freely,

binds (Chapter 7A).

between clutch cover and engine housing (Chapter 7A).

5

Dirt

6

Worn

shift fork

(Chapter 7A).'

53

Transaxle slips, shifts roughly, in forward or reverse gears

is

noisy or has no drive

There are many probable causes for the above problems, but the home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility - fluid level.

)

25

Troubleshooting Before taking the vehicle to a repair shop, check the level and condition in Chapter 1 Correct the fluid level as necessary and filter needed. If the problem persists, have a professional diagnose the cause.

of the fluid

as described

.

or change the fluid

60

1

Drjveaxles Clicking noise

Worn

or

in

turns

damaged outboard CV

joint

(Chapter

8).

61

1

Shudder or vibration during acceleration

55

2 3

1

2 3 4

Excessive toe-in (Chapter 10). Incorrect spring heights (Chapter 10). Worn or damaged inboard or outboard CV joints (Chapter Sticking inboard CV joint assembly (Chapter 8).

1

2 3

8).

62

Vibration at highway speeds

56

balance front wheels and/or tires (Chapters of round front tires (Chapters 1 and 10). Worn CV joint(s) (Chapter 8).

Out Out

of

1

and

Note: Before assuming (hat a brake problem

b) c)

The The The

are

front

end alignment

in

is

exists,

good condition and properly

tires

vehicle

9).

is

in

brake system failure (Chapter 9). master cylinder (Chapters Air trapped in system (Chapters 1 and 9). Partial

Insufficient fluid in

1

and

9).

Dragging brakes Incorrect adjustment of brake light switch (Chapter 9).

3

Restricted brakes lines or hoses (Chapters

4

Incorrect parking brake adjustment (Chapter 9).

1

(Chapter

and

Grabbing or uneven braking action

1

Malfunction of proportioning valve (Chapter

2

Malfunction of power brake booster unit (Chapter

3

Binding brake pedal

mechanism (Chapter

9).

9).

9).

1

64

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

an unequal manner.

3

(Chapter 9). Master cylinder mounting bolts loose (Chapter Master cylinder defective (Chapter 9).

Air in hydraulic lines

9).

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

57

pressures (Chapter

1

Incorrect

2

Front end out of line (have the front end aligned).

3

Front, or rear, tires not

4 5 6

Restricted brake lines or hoses (Chapter 9).

tire

Malfunctioning

matched

drum brake

1 ).

to

65

Brake pedal travels to the floor with

little

resistance

one another.

or caliper

assembly (Chapter

1

9).

Loose suspension parts (Chapter 10). Loose calipers (Chapter 9). Excessive wear of brake shoe or pad material or disc/drum on one

side.

Little

or no fluid

in

the master cylinder reservoir caused by leaking cali-

per piston(s) (Chapter 2

Loose,

damaged

9).

or disconnected brake lines (Chapter 9).

Parking brake does not hold

66

Parking brake linkage improperly adjusted (Chapters

58

1

and

9).

Noise (high-pitched squeal when the brakes are applied)

Front and/or rear disc brake pads worn out. The noise comes from the wear sensor rubbing against the disc (does not apply to all vehicles). Replace pads with new ones immediately (Chapter 9).

59

9).

9).

that:

(Chapter

correct (Chapter 10).

not loaded with weight

Excessive brake pedal travel

fvlaster cylinder pistons not returning correctly

63

make sure

inflated

Partial

1

1

8

Malfunctioning power brake booster (Chapter

2

2

7

stop vehicle

10).

Brakes a)

effort required to

system failure (Chapter 9). Excessively worn pads or shoes (Chapter 9). 3 4 Piston in caliper or wheel cylinder stuck or sluggish (Chapter 9). 5 Brake pads or shoes contaminated with oil or grease (Chapter 9). New pads or shoes installed and not yet seated. It will take a while for 6 the new matenal to seat against the rotor or drum. 2

54

Excessive brake pedal

if

Suspension and steering systems Note: Before attempting to diagnose the suspension and steering systems, perform the following preliminary checks: Tires for

b)

Steering universal joints from the column to the rack and pinion for

loose connectors or wear. c)

1

Excessive

2

Uneven pad wear (Chapter

3

Defective rotor (Chapter

lateral

runout (Chapter

9).

9).

wrong pressure and uneven wear.

a)

Brake roughness or chatter (pedal pulsates)

Front and rear suspension and the rack and pinion assembly for

loose or

9).

d)

damaged

parts.

Out-of-round or out-of-balance

rough wheel beanngs.

tires,

bent rims and loose and/or

)

26

67

Troubleshooting

Vehicle pulls to one side

74

3

Mismatched or uneven tires (Chapter 1 0). Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 10). Wheel alignment (Chapter 1 0).

4

Front brake dragging (Chapter

1

2

68

Abnormal or excessive

1

2 3

4 5 6

9).

Wheel alignment (Chapter

1

3

4

Worn

5

Overloaded vehicle.

6

Tires not rotated regularly.

strut

damper (Chapter

1

10).

2 3 4

10).

76

69

1

Blister or

bump on

2

Improper

strut

Tire or

Loose

5 6

damper

(Chapter

1

2 3 4

0).

action (Chapter 10).

77

wheel out-of-balance or out-of-round (Chapter 10). worn wheel bearings (Chapters 1 8 and 10). Worn tie-rod ends (Chapter 1 0). Worn lower balljoints (Chapters 1 and 10). Excessive wheel runout (Chapter 10). Blister or bump on tire (Chapter 10).

1

4

tire

Shimmy, shake or vibration

2 3

or

,

1

and

1

0).

assemblies (Chapter 1 0). Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 1 0). Broken or sagging spnngs (Chapter 1 0). Wheel alignment (Chapter 1 0). strut

Erratic steering

when braking

Wheel bearings worn (Chapter

10).

Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 10). Leaking wheel cylinder or caliper (Chapter

Warped

rotors or

drums (Chapter

1

1

0).

0).

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners or during braking

Lack of lubrication at balljoints, tie-rod ends and rack and pinion assembly (Chapter 10). Front wheel alignment (Chapter 10). 2 Low tire pressure(s) (Chapters 1 and 10). 3

Cupped

10).

broken or sagging springs (Chapter

10).

tires

Front wheel or rear wheel alignment (Chapter 10).

Worn strut dampers (Chapter 10), Wheel bearings worn (Chapter 1 0). Excessive

5

Worn

3

vehicle.

dampers (Chapter

strut

4

2

returnability of steering to center

10).

Suspension bottoms

Incorrect,

1

Poor

or mountings (Chapter Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 10). Overloaded vehicle.

3

79

bar (Chapter 10).

dampers

Worn

2

1

stabilizer

strut

Overloaded

78

Hard steering

Loose

Worn

1

3

72

Worn

2

1

71

Mismatched or uneven tires (Chapter 1 0). Lack of lubrication at balljoints and tie-rod ends (Chapters

Wheel makes a thumping noise

1

70

or poor steering stability

0).

Sagging or broken springs (Chapter Tire out of balance (Chapter 1 0).

2

Wander

wear

tire

75 1

)

tire

Excessive

wheel runout (Chapter

or

balljoints

10).

(Chapter 10).

tire

wear on outside edge

pressures incorrect (Chapter 1 ). Excessive speed in turns. Front end alignment incorrect (excessive toe-in) Have professionally Inflation

.

aligned. 1

Lack

2

Binding

in balljoints

3

Binding

in

4

Lack

5

Front wheel alignment (Chapter

73

1

2 3 4 5 6

of

lubncation at balljoints and tie-rod ends (Chapter 10). steering

1

column (Chapter 10). and pinion assembly (Chapter

at the front

of lubrication at balljoints

4

Suspension arm bent or twisted (Chapter

10).

0).

of lubricant in rack

Abnormal noise

Lack

(Chapter

10).

80 1

Excessive

tire

wear on inside edge

0).

end

and

tie-rod

Inflation

Front

3

ends (Chapters

Damaged strut mounting (Chapter 10). Worn control arm bushings or tie-rod ends Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 10). Loose wheel nuts (Chapters 1 and 10). Loose suspension bolts (Chapter 10).

1

2

1

and

1

pressures incorrect (Chapter

1

end alignment incorrect (toe-out). Have professionally Loose or damaged steering components (Chapter 10).

aligned.

0).

81

Tire tread

worn

in

one place

(Chapter 10). 1

Tires out of balance.

2

Damaged

or buckled wheel. Inspect

3

Defective

tire

(Chapter

1

and replace

if

necessary.

27

Troubleshooting

82

Excessive play or looseness

1

Wheel

2

Tie-rod

3

4

in

steering system

83

Rattling or clicking noise in rack

and pinion

bearing(s) worn (Chapter 10).

end loose (Chapter 10). Rack and pinion loose (Chapter 1 0). Worn or loose steering intermediate shaft (Chapter

Insufficient or

1

ter

10).

2

1

Improper lubricant

in

rack and pinion assembly (Chap-

0).

Rack and

pinion attachment loose (Chapter

1

0).

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

Contents Air and crankcase filter replacement Automatic transaxle fluid level check Automatic transaxle fluid change Battery check and maintenance Brake fluid replacement Brake system check Carburetor choke check Clutch pedal height and freeplay check and adjustment (hydraulic clutch models) Clutch release arm freeplay check and adjustment (cable-operated clutch models) Clutch release fork freeplay check and adjustment (hydraulic clutch models) Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and refilling) Cooling system check Dnveaxle boot check Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement Engine oil and filter change Evaporative emissions control system check Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system check Exhaust system check Fluid level checks Fuel filter replacement Fuel system check

Manual transaxle

20 7

Idle

speed check and adjustment check and adjustment

37 36

Ignition timing

32

Introduction

1

13

IVIaintenance schedule

3

31

Manual transaxle lubricant change Manual transaxle lubncant level check Power steering fluid level check Positive crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve check and replacement Rear wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment (1979 through 1987 models) Spark plug check and replacement Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement Steering and suspension check Thermostatically-controlled air cleaner check Throttle linkage check Tire and tire pressure checks

19

27 10

12 11

29 16

26 14

8

38 39 30 4 34

Tire rotation

Tune-up general information Underhood hose check and replacement Valve clearance check and adjustment Windshield wiper blade inspection and replacement

33 24 6 28 35 22

23 25 40 41

5 17 2 15

18

21

lubricant viscosity chart

Engine

oil

viscosity chart

For best fuel economy and cold starting, select the lowest SAE viscosity grade oil for the expected temperature range

20*

-30*

-20*

-10*

40*

0»

60'

10*

so*

20*

100'F

JO*

Recommended SAE

40'C

•20

0*

-30*

-20*

20'

-lO*

40*

0*

viscosity grades for engine oils and

80*

60*

10*

20*

100'F

30*

40«C

manual transaxle lubricants

9

Chapter

1

29

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Specifications

Recommended Engine

lubricants

and

fluids

oil

Type

API grade SF multigrade and

Viscosity

See accompanying

Fuel

•

Automatic transaxle

Manual transaxle Type

fluid

fluid

API grade

DOT 3 DOT 3

type

fluid

Power

steering system fluid

type

fluid

SE

or

SF

brake brake

multigrade engine

oil

chart

fluid fluid

Honda power

steering fluid

system

Spark plug type and gap 1.8L engine 1979 and 1980 1981 and 1982 1983 1

automatic transmission

See accompanying

Clutch

Ignition

II

lubricant

Viscosity

Brake

oil

Unleaded gasoline. 87 octane or higher

Dexron

type

fuel efficient

chart

984 through

1

"

BR7EB or equivalent @

NGK NGK NGK NGK

987

0.032 inch

BR6EB-L-11 or equivalent @ 0.044 inch BUR6EB-11 or equivalent @ 0.044 inch BPR6EY-1 1 or equivalent @ 0.044 inch

2.0L engine

NGK BPR5EY-11 or equivalent @ 0.044 inch NGK BCPR5EY-N-11 or equivalent @ 0.044 inch NGK BCPR6EY-N-11 or equivalent @ 0.044 inch

1986 and 1987 1988 through 1990 1988 through 1990 EFI models Spark plug wire resistance

Less than 25000 ohms Refer to the Emission Control Information label in the engine compartment

Ignition timing

Engine

firing

Cylinder

order

numbers

1

(drivebelt-to-transaxle end)

-3-4-2

1-2-3-4

'Refer to the Vehicle Emission Control Information label in the engine compartment: use the information there

if it

differs

from that listed here.

Cooling system Thermostat

rating

190-degrees F (88-degrees C) 1 00-degrees C)

open open

Starts to Fully

2 1 2-degrees F

Accessory dnvebelt deflection

0.4 to 0.5

(

(10 to 12

in

mm)

o®@®

Clutch Clutch pedal

Freeplay

1979 and 1980 models 1 981 through 1 983 models 1984 through 1989 models

3/64 to 1/8 in 3/8 to 1-3/16 7/8

Pedal height 1979 through 1983 models 1984 through 1987 models

in

7-1/4

1988 and 1989 models

(23 in

to

(1

in

3

mm)

(10 to 30

mm)

mm)

(184

6.93

in

(176

8.16

in

(207

mm) mm) mm)

Clutch release arm freeplay

1979 through 1982 models 1983 through 1989 models

mm) mm)

5/64 to 7/64

in

(2 to 2.6

13/64 to 1/4

in

(5.2 to 6.4

Brakes Disc brake pad lining thickness (minimum)

Drum brake shoe

lining

.

thickness (minimum)

.

1/8

in

(3.18

1/6

in

(1.60

mm) mm)

Parking brake adjustment 1 1

979 through 1 987 models 988 and 1 989 models

4 7

to

8

clicks

to 11 clicks

0763H-X

2.0L engines

Capacities Engine oil 1979 through 1982 models 1983 through 1989 models Automatic transaxle 1979 through 1982 models 1 983 through 1 989 models

Manual transaxle

3.2 qt (3.0

liter)

Cylinder location and

3.7 qt (3.5

liter)

distributor rotation

2.6 qt (2.5

liter)

3.2 qt (3.0

liter)

2.5 qt (2.4

liter)

30

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

General Valve clearances (engine cold) Single

Overhead

Cam (SOHC)

engine

Intake valve

0.005 0.010

to

(0.12 to 0.17

to

0.007 0.012

in

Exhaust valve

in

(0.25 to 0.30

Auxiliary valve

0.005

to

0.007

in

(0.12 to 0.17

0.003 to 0.005 0.006 to 0.008

in

(0.08 to 0.12

in

(0.16 to 0.20

Dual Overhead

Cam (DOHC) engine

Intake valve

Exhaust valve Throttle cable deflection limit

3/16 to 3/8

Torque specifications Automatic transaxle drain and

Manual transaxle drain and Rear wheel bearing nut Initial

torque

Final torque

Wheel

nut

mm) mm) mm)

Ft-lbs filler

filler

plugs

plugs

in (4 to

10

mm)

mm) mm)

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

31

CO

S

Q

^

2>

w

£

.9-

S

5>

&

^

re

9>

o c (0

c 0)

32

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

9)

CO

•c:

V n

Q

tt

c y

CO Uj

loj

O O 5 5

§

"O "O c US

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c\i

(»)

rt

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

33

)

Honda Prelude

3

Maintenance schedule

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you not the dealer, will be doing the work. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by the factory for Preludes that are driven daily. If you want to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may decide to perform some of these procedures even more often. Because frequent maintenance enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your car, we encourage you to do so. If you drive in dusty areas, tow a trailer, idle or drive at low speeds for extended periods or drive for short distances (less than four miles) in below ,

freezing temperatures, shorter intervals are also

When your vehicle is new,

recommended.

should be serviced by a factory authorized dealer service department to protect the factory warranty. In many cases, the initial maintenance check is done at no cost to the owner.

Replace the

air and crankcase filters (Section 20) Inspect the fuel system (Section 21) Check and replace, if necessary, the spark plugs (Section 22) Inspect, and replace if necessary the spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor (Section 23)

Change

the automatic transaxle models) (Section 32)**

fluid

(1979 through 1982

Check the manual transaxle lubricant level (Section Inspect the suspension and steering components (Section 25)* Check the driveaxle boots (Section 26)

24)*

it

Every 30,000 miles or 24 months, whichever comes first Check

Every 250 miles or weekly, whichever comes first

the operation of the carburetor choke system (Section 27) Check and replace necessary the PCV valve (Section 28) Service the cooling system (drain, flush and refill) (Section 29) Inspect the exhaust system (Section 30) Replace the brake fluid (Section 31 if

Check Check Check Check Check

the engine

level (Section 4)

oil

the engine coolant level (Section 4) the windshield washer fluid level (Section 4) the brake and clutch fluid levels (Section 4)

the tires and

tire

Change and

pressures (Section 5)

Change

Every 3000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first All

the automatic transaxle fluid (1983 models) (Section 32)** the manual transaxle lubricant (Section 33)

later

Every 60,000 miles or 24 months, whichever comes first

items listed above plus:

Check the power steering fluid Check the automatic transaxle

level (Section 6) fluid level

Replace the

(Section 7)

Every 7500 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first All items listed

the engine

oil

Inspect

and replace

if

and

oil filter

(Section 8)*

necessary the windshield

wiper blades (Section 9) if

if

freeplay (hydraulic clutch models) (Section 11) Check and adjust if necessary, the clutch release

arm

freeplay (cable-operated clutch models) (Section 12) Check and service the battery (Section 13)

Check and

adjust if necessary the engine drivebelts (Section 14)

necessary all underhood hoses (Section 15) Check the cooling system (Section 16) Rotate the

tires

necessary, adjust the valve clearances (Section 18) Inspect the brake system (Section 19)* if

necessary the engine

idle

* This item is affected by "severe" operating conditions as described below. If your vehiicle is operated under "severe" conditions, perform all maintenance indicated witti an asterisk (') at 3000 mile/3 montfi intervals. Severe conditions are indicated if you mainly operate your

vehicle under

one

or

more

of the following conditions:

Operating in dusty areas Idling for extended periods and/or low speed operation Operating when outside temperatures remain below freezing and when most trips are less than 4 miles

(Section 17)

above plus:

Check and,

if

37) Inspect the evaporative emissions control system (Section 38) Check the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system (Section 39) Check the operation of the thermostatic air cleaner (Section 40) Check the operation of the throttle linkage (Section 41)

if

Every 15,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first All Items listed

(Section 34)

necessary the rear wheel bearings (1979 through 1987 models) (Section 35) Check and adjust if necessary the engine ignition if

timing (Section 36)

Check and adjust necessary, the clutch pedal freeplay and height (hydraulic clutch models) (Section 10) Check and adjust necessary, the clutch fork

Inspect and replace

filter

Check and adjust speed (Section

above, plus:

Change

fuel

Check and repack

** If operated under one or more of tfie following conditions, change the automatic transaxle fluid and filter every 7500 miles (1979through 1 982 models) or 15.000 miles (1983 and later mod-

els):

heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90-degrees F (32-degrees C) or higher In hilly or mountainous terrain

In

Chapter

4.2

The engine

1

35

Tune-up and routine maintenance

dipstick is located on the front side of the engine, behind the radiator

oil

4.4

The

dipstick -

oil

if it

upper mark

should be at or near the upper marK on tne add enough oil to bring the level to or near the takes one full quart to raise the level from the lower to the upper mark) level

isn't,

(it

Each time you check the oil level, slide your thumb and index finger up the dipstick before wiping off the oil. If you see

the oil should also be checked. Fluid level

checks

small

dirt

or metal particles clinging to the dipstick, the

changed (Section 1 Fluids are an essential part of the lubrication, cooling, brake, clutch and other systems. Because these fluids gradually become depleted and or contaminated during normal operation of the vehicle, they must be periodically replenished. See Recommended lubricants and fluids at the beginning of this Chapter before adding fluid to any of the following components. Note: The vehicle must be on level ground before fluid levels can be checked.

Engine Refer

oil

and 4.6

should be

Engine coolant Refer

to illustration 4.9

All vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with a pressurized 8 coolant recovery system. A white coolant reservoir located in the right front corner of the engine compartment is connected by a hose to the base of the coolant filler cap. If the coolant heats up during engine operation, coolant can escape through a pressurized filler cap. then through a con-

necting hose into the reservoir.

to illustrations 4.2. 4.4

oil

8).

matically drawn

As the engine

cools, the coolant

is

auto-

back into the cooling system to maintain the correct level.

2 The engine oil level is checked with a dipstick located at the front side of the engine (see illustration). The dipstick extends through a metal tube from which it protrudes down into the engine oil pan. 3 The oil leve[shouid be checked before the vehicle has been driven, or

about 1 5 minutes after the engine has been shut off. If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the upper engine components, producing an inaccurate reading on the dipstick. Pull the dipstick from the tube and wipe all the oil from the end with a 4 clean rag or paper towel. Insert the clean dipstick all the way back into its metal tube and pull it out again. Observe the oil at the end of the dipstick. At its highest point, the level should be between the L and F marks (see illustration).

5

It

takes one quart of

oil

to raise the level

from the L mari< to the F mark

on the dipstick. Do not allow the level to drop below the L mark or oil starvation may cause engine damage. Conversely, overfilling the engine (adding oil above the F mark) may cause oil fouled spark plugs, oil leaks or oil seal failures.

6

Remove the threaded cap from the camshaft cover to add oil (see il-

lustration).

Use an

oil

can spout or funnel

to

prevent

spills.

After adding

the oil. install the filler cap hand tight. Start the engine and look carefully for

any small leaks around the oil filter or drain plug. Stop the engine and check the oil level again after it has had sufficient time to drain from the upper block and cylinder head galleys. 7 Checking the oil level is an important preventive maintenance step. A continually dropping oil level indicates oil leakage through damaged seals, from loose connections, or past worn rings or valve guides. If the oil looks milky in color or has water droplets in it. a cylinder head gasket may be blown. The engine should be checked immediately. The condition of

The threaded oil filler cap is located on the camshaft cover always make sure that the area around this opening is clean before unscrewing the cap to prevent dirt from contaminating the engine

4.6

2 3 4 5 6 7

36

Chapter

Make sure that the coolant level In the reservoir is between Low and Full marks (which can be seen below the battery using a flashlight) - if it's below the Low mark, unscrew the cap

4.9

The windshield washer

4.14

the

and add a

7

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

left

fluid reservoir

tank

is

located in the

engine compartment on most models can be added after flipping up the cap

front corner of the fluid

sufficient quantity of the prescribed mixture of

antifreeze

and water If it is necessary to open the radiator cap, wait until the system has 11 cooled completely, then wrap a thick cloth around the cap and turn It to the first stop. If any steam escapes, wait until the system has cooled further,

then remove the cap. 1 When checking the coolant

level,

always note

its

condition.

It

should

brown or rust colored, the system should be drained, flushed and refilled. Even the coolant appears to be normal, the corrosion inhibitors wear out with use, so must be replaced at the specibe

relatively clear.

If

is

it

if

it

fied intervals. 1

Do

not allow antifreeze to

come

in

contact with your skin or painted

surfaces of the vehicle. Flush contacted areas immediately with plenty of water.

Windshield washer Refer 1

fluid

to illustration 4. 14

Fluid for the windshield

which

is

washer system

illustration). In milder climates, plain water

Keep the

4.15

Full

all

the cells in the battery

The coolant level should be checked regularly. must be between the and Low lines on the tank (see illustration). The level will vary with It

the temperature of the engine.

When the engine

is

cold, the coolant level

above the Low mark on the tank. Once the engine has warmed up, the level should be at or near the Full mark. isn't, allow the fluid in the tank to cool, then remove the cap from the reservoir and add coolant to bring the level up to the Full line. Use only ethylene/glycol type coolant and water in the mixture ratio recommended by your owner's manual. Do not use supplemental inhibitors or additives. only a small amount of coolant is required to bring the system up to the proper level, water can be used. However, repeated additions of water will dilute the recommended antifreeze and water solution In order to maintain the proper ratio of antifreeze and water, is advisable to top up the coolant level with the correct mixture. Refer to your owner's manual for the recommended ratio. should be

stored

in

a plastic reservoir

can be used

to top

up the

res-

should be kept no more than 2/3 full to allow for expansion should the water freeze. In colder climates, the use of a specialervoir, but the reservoir

electrolyte level of

between the Upper and Lower levels - use only distilled water to replenish a cell and never overfill it or electrolyte may squirt out of the battery during periods of heavy charging 9

is

located at the right front corner of the engine compartment (see

at or slightly

If it

If

ly

designed windshield washer fluid, available

parts store,

your dealer and any auto fluid, t^ix

the solution

accordance with the manufacturer's directions on the conDo not use regular antifreeze. It will damage the vehicle's paint.

with water tainer.

at

help lower the freezing point of the

will

in

Battery electrolyte Refer

to illustration 4.

15

Check the electrolyte level of all six battery cells. must be between the level is low, unscrew the upper and lower levels (see illustration). the filler/vent cap and add distilled water. Install and securely retighten the cap. Caution: Overfilling the cells may cause electrolyte to spill over during periods of heavy charging, causing corrosion or damage. 1

It

If

Brake and clutch

fluid

.

it

10

If

the coolant level drops within a short time after replenishment, there

may be

a leak

in

the system. Inspect the radiator, hoses, engine coolant

bleeder plugs and water

pump

no leak is evident, have the radiator cap pressure tested by your dealer. Warning: /Vever remove the radiator cap or ttie coolant recovery reservoir cap wtien the erigine is running or has just been shut down, because the cooling system is hot. Escaping steam and scalding liquid could cause serious injury. filler

cap, drain plugs,

air

If

Refer 1

to illustration 4.

1

The brake master cylinder is mounted on the front of the power t)00Stin the engine compartment. The clutch cylinder used on manual

er unit

transaxles 1

is

located next to the master cylinder.

To check the

look at the f^AX

check the

fluid level of

fluid level of

the fluid level

is

the brake master cylinder reservoir, simply

and MIN marks on the

reservoir (see illustration) To

the clutch master cylinder reservoir, note whether

even with the maximum

within the specified distance from the

level line.

maximum

fill

The

line for

level

should be

both reservoirs.

8 9

Chapter

fluid level should be kept between the Min and the translucent plastic reservoir - unscrew and lift

up the cap If

Tune-up and routine maintenance

The brake

4.17

Max marks on

1

1

the level

is

to

add

fluid

low for either reservoir, wipe the top of the reservoir cover

with a clean rag to prevent contamination of the brake or clutch

before

lifting

system

the cover.

Recommended lubricants and fluids at the front of this chapter or to your owner's manual) Mixing different types of brake fluid can damage the sys-

to

.

tem.

Fill

the brake master cylinder reservoir only to the dotted line

-

this

when you put the cover back on. Warning Use caution when filling either reservoir - brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces. Do not use brake fluid that has been opened for more than one year or has been left open. Brake fluid absorbs

brings the

fluid to

5.2 A tire tread depth indicator should be used to monitor tire wear - they are available at auto parts stores and service stations and cost very little

inder requires repeated replenishing to indication of leakage

keep

it

at the

proper level,

this is

an

the brake system, which should be corrected im-

in

Check all brake lines and connections, along with the wheel cylmore information). 23 upon checking the master cylinder fluid level, you discover one or both reservoirs empty or nearly empty, the brake system should be bled mediately.

Add only the specified brake fluid to the brake or clutch reservoir {refer

1

37

inders and booster (see Section 19 for If,

(Chapter

9).

the correct level

:

moisture from the

air.

Excess moisture can cause a dangerous loss of

5

Tire

Refer

and

tire

pressure checks

1

20

While the reservoir cap is removed, inspect the master cylinder reserIf deposits, dirt particles or water droplets are present. the system should be drained and refilled (see Chapter 8 for clutch

of being

voir for contamination.

tion regarding possible

reservoir or Chapter 9 for brake reservoir).

2

After filling the reservoir to the proper level, make sure the lid is propseated to prevent fluid leakage andor system pressure loss. 22 The brake fluid in the master cylinder will drop slightly as the brake pads at each wheel wear down during normal operation. If the master cyl-

vice

21

erly

Probable cause

5.4b and 5.8 may spare you from the inconvenience

to illustrations 5.2. 5.3. 5.4a.

Periodic inspection of the tires

braking.

stranded with a

before major

damage

tiat tire.

It

problems

can also provide you with vital informathe steenng and suspension systems

in

occurs.

Normal tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive de-

known as a tread depth indicator (see illustration). When the tread depth reaches the specified minimum, replace the tire(s). Note any abnormal tread wear (see illustration). Tread pattern irreg3 ularities such as cupping, flat spots and more wear on one side than the

Probable cause

Corrective action

Corrective action

Feainereo eoge

• Undennflalion (bom sides wear)

• Measure and

•

• Repair

Incorrect

wheel

adjust pressure or replace axle and suspen-

camber (orw Side wear)

•

Hare* cornering

• Lack

o( rotation

sion parts

• Reduce speed

•

Rotate

tires

This chart will help you determine the condition of the tires, the probable cause(s) 5.3

• Ovennflation

• Measure and

• Lack

• Rotate

• Repair

or replace

axle and suspen-

adjust pressure o( rotation

sion parts

iires

• Malfunctioning Suspension

• Repair or replace suspenaon parts

• Unt>aianced wheel

• Balance

• Out-ol-round Drake drum

• Turn

• Lack

• Rotate

or

replace

Center wear

ol rotation

or replace

iires

abnormal wear and the corrective action necessary of

7

38

Chapter

5.4a

If

first to

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

a tire loses air on a steady basis, check the valve core

make sure it's snug (special inexpensive wrenches commonly available at auto parts stores)

5.4b If the valve core is tight, raise the corner of the vehicle with the low tire and spray a water soapy solution onto the tread as the

are

turned slowly - slow leaks

tire is

to

will

cause small bubbles

appear

vebox. The pressure gauges fitted to the the nozzles of stations are often inaccurate.

air

hoses

at

gas

tire pressure when the tires are cold. "Cold," in this means the vehicle has not been driven over a mile in the three hours preceding a tire pressure check. A pressure hse of four to eight pounds is not uncommon once the tires are warm.

7

Always check

case,

Unscrew the valve cap protruding from the wheel or hubcap and push gauge firmly onto the valve (see illustration). Note the reading on the gauge and compare this figure to the recommended tire pressure shown on the tire placard on the left door post. Be sure to reinstall the valve cap to keep dirt and moisture out of the valve stem mechanism. Check all four tires and, necessary, add enough air to bring them up to the recom8

the

if

mended pressure 9

levels.

Don't forget to keep the spare

tire

inflated to the specified

pressure

(consult your owner's manual). Note that the air pressure specified for the

compact spare is significantly higher than the pressure of the regular tires.

6

To extend the life of the tires, check the air pressure at least once a week with an accurate gauge (don't forget the spare!)

Power steering

fluid level

check

5.8

other are indications of front end alignment and/or balance problems.

any

of thiese conditions

are noted, take

tfie

vehicle to a

tire

If

shop or service

All

models

1

Unlike manual steering, the

which may, over a penod 2

The fluid

power steering system

relies

on

fluid

of time, require replenishing.

reservoir for the

power steering pump is located on the inner

fender panel near the front of the engine.

station to correct the problem.

Look closely for cuts, punctures and embedded nails or tacks. Some4 times a tire will hold its air pressure for a short time or ieakdown very slowly even after a nail has embedded itself into the tread. If a slow leak persists, check the valve stem core to make sure is tight (see illustration). Examine the tread for an object that may have embedded itself into the tire or for a "plug" that may have begun to leak (radial tire punctures are repaired with a plug that is installed in a puncture). a puncture is suspected, can be easily verified by spraying a solution of soapy water onto the puncture area (see Illustration). The soapy solution will bubble there is a leak. Unless the puncture is inordinately large, a tire shop or gas station can

3

For the check, the front wheels should be pointed straight ahead and

the engine should be

off.

1979 through 1982 models

it

If

it

if

usually repair the punctured

lire.

Carefully inspect the inboard sidewall of each tire for evidence of 5 brake fluid leakage. If you see any, inspect the brakes immediately. 6 Correct tire air pressure adds miles to the lifespan of the tires, im-

proves mileage and enhances overall ride quality. Tire pressure cannot be accurately estimated by looking at a tire, particularly if is a radial. A tire pressure gauge is therefore essential. Keep an accurate gauge in the gloit

4

Use a clean

cap. This

will

rag to wipe

off

the reservoir cap and the area around the

help prevent any foreign matter from entering the reservoir

during the check.

Check

the fluid level only with the engine off and cold.

Twist off the cap. 5 6 Wipe off the fluid from the dipstick with a clean rag, reinsert it. then withdraw and read the fluid level. The level should be between the upper and lower marks on the dipstick. At no time should the fluid level drop below the lower mark. it

1983 and later models Refer 7

to illustration 6.

On these models the reservoir is translucent plastic and the fluid level

can be checked

visually (see illustration)

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

39

DIPSTICK

h

UPPER /LEVEL

IlV LOWER LEVEL

DRAIN PLUG 7.4 6.7 The power steering fluid reservoir is translucent on later models so the fluid level can be checked without removing the cap - keep the level between the two lines

All

into

The automatic transaxle dipstick on most models screws the transaxle case - keep the fluid level between the upper and lower marks

models

is required, pour the specified type directly into the a funnel to prevent spills. If the reservoir requires frequent fluid additions, all power steering 9 hoses, hose connections, the power steering pump and the racl< and pin-

8

If

additional fluid

reservoir, using

ion

assembly should be

7

carefully

Automatic transaxle

Refer

checked

fluid level

for leaks.

check

to Illustration 7.4

The level of the automatic transaxle fluid should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and transaxle damage. The transaxle fluid level should only be checked when the engine is 2 1

off.

3

Remove the dipstick from the transaxle. Check the level of the fluid on

the dipstick and note

4

Wipe

transaxle

its

condition.

the fluid from the dipstick with a clean rag and reinstall until

it

in

the

the cap seats (see illustration).

Remove the dipstick again and note the fluid level. The level should be between the upper and lower marks on the dipstick. If the level is low. add the specified automatic transmission fluid through the dipstick opening with a funnel. 5

6 Add just enough of the recommended fluid to fill the transaxle to the proper level. It takes about one pint to raise the level from the low mark to the high mark, so add the fluid a little at a time and keep checking the level until

it

is

correct.

The condition of the fluid should also be checked along with the level. If the fluid at the end of the dipstick is black or a dark reddish brown color, or it emits a burned smell, the fluid should be changed (Section 32). If you are in doubt about the condition of the fluid, purchase some new fluid and compare the two for color and smell. 7 if

8

Engine

Refer

oil

and

filter

to illustrations 8.2. 8.

change

7. 8.

12 and

8.

14

Frequent oil changes are the best preventive maintenance the home mechanic can give the engine, because aging oil t>ecomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. Make sure that you have all the necessary tools before you begin this 2 procedure (see illustration). You should also have plenty of rags or newspapers handy for mopping up any spills.

8.2

These tools are required when changing the engine oil and filter

Drain pan - It should be prevent spills

fairly

shallow in depth, but wide to

Rubber gloves - When removing the drain plug and filter you will get oil on your hands (the gloves will prevent bums) Breaker bar - Sometimes the oil drain plug is tight and a long breaker bar is needed to loosen it Socket - To be used with the breaker bar or a ratchet (must be the correct size to fit the drain plug - 6-point preferred)

1

Filter

wrench -

This

is

a metal band-type wrench, which

requires clearance around the Filter

wrench -

This type

fits

filter to be effective on the bottom of the

filter

and

can be turned with a ratchet or breaker bar (different size wrenches are available for different types of filters)

6 5 7 2 3

40

Chapter

8.7

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Use the proper size box end wrench or six-point socket remove the oil drain plug to avoid rounding it off

The oil wrench

8.12

to

special

filter Is

for

usually on very tight and will require a DO NOT use the wrench to tighten the new filter

removal -

Being careful not to touch the hot exhaust components, place the pan under the drain plug in the bottom of the pan and remove the plug

7

drain

(see illustration). You may want to wear gloves while unscrewing the plug final few turns If the engine is really hot. Allow the old oil to drain into the pan. It may be necessary to move the 8

the

pan

under the engine as the oil flow slows to a trickle. Inspect the presence of metal shavings and chips. 9 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the drain plug with a clean rag. Even minute metal particles clinging to the plug would immediately contaminate the new oil. 1 Clean the area around the drain plug opening, reinstall the plug and tighten securely, but do not strip the threads. 11 fVlove the drain pan into position under the oil filter. 1 Loosen the oil filter (see illustration) by turning it counterclockwise with the filter wrench. Any standard filter wrench will work. Sometimes the oil filter is screwed on so tightly that it cannot be loosened. If this situation old

farther

oil

for the

it

occurs, punch a metal bar or long screwdriver directly through the side of the canister

and use

as a T-bar to turn the filter. Be prepared for oil to it is punctured. Once the filter is loose, use your from the block. Just as the filter is detached from the it

spurt out of the canister as

hands

to

unscrew

it

tilt the open end up to prevent the oil inside the filter Warning: The engine exhaust manifold may still be hot.

block, immediately

from

spilling out.

so be 8.14

Lubricate the

oil filter

gasket with clean engine on the engine

oil

before

installing the filter

Access to the underside of the vehicle is greatly improved the vecan be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps or supported by jackstands. Warning: Do not work under a vehicle which Is supported only by a bumper, hydraulic or scissors-type jack. 4 this is your first oil change, get under the vehicle and familiarize yourself with the locations of the oil drain plug and the oil filter. The engine and exhaust components will be warm during the actual work, so try to anticipate any potential problems before the engine and accessories are hot. Park the vehicle on a level spot. Start the engine and allow to reach 5 its normal operating temperature. Warm oil and sludge will flow out more easily. Turn off the engine when it's warmed up. Remove the filler cap in the rocker arm cover. 6 Raise the vehicle and support on jackstands. Warning: To avoid personal Injury, never get beneath the vehicle when It Is supported by only by a jack. The jack provided with your vehicle Is designed solely for raising the vehicle to remove and replace the wheels. Always use jackstands to support the vehicle when It becomes necessary to place your body under3

if

hicle

If

it

it

neath the vehicle.

careful.

With a clean rag. wipe off the mounting surface on the block. If a residue of old oil is allowed to remain, it will smoke when the block Is heated up. It will also prevent the new filter from seating properly. Also make sure that the none of the old gasket remains stuck to the mounting surface. It 1

can be removed with a scraper

if

necessary.

Compare the old filter with the new one to make sure they are the same type. Smear some engine oil on the rubber gasket of the new filter 14

and screw will

en

it

filter 1

It

into place

(see illustration). Because overtightening the filter

damage the gasket, do not use a filter wrench to tighten the filter. Tightby hand until the gasket contacts the seating surface. Then seat the by giving an additional 3/4-turn. Remove all tools, rags, etc. from under the vehicle, being careful not it

to spill the oil in the drain 1

er.

gine.

Pour three quarts

allow the

oil

1

filler

of fresh oil into the engine.

to drain into the

(see Section 4 the

pan, then lower the vehicle.

Add new oil to the engine through the oil filler cap in the rear cam covUse a spout or funnel to prevent oil from spilling onto the top of the en-

if

necessary).

cap hand

tight, start

If

the

oil

level is at or

oil

near the F mark,

the engine and allow the

to

dipstick install

new oil to circulate.

for about a minute. While the engine is rununder the vehicle and check for leaks at the oil pan drain plug

Allow the engine to run

ning, look

Wait a few minutes

pan, then check the level on the

7

812

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

41

(?/A'7//

Squeeze the retainer in and slide the wiper blade rubber element out of the wiper frame (1979 through 1982 models)

9.7

wiper blade rubber element

and around the plug or

oil filter.

If

either

is

leaking, stop the engine

and tighten the

filter slightly.

1 Wait a few minutes to allow the oil to trickle down into the pan, then recheck the level on the dipstick and, if necessary, add enough oil to bring the level to the F mark. 19 During the first few trips after an oil change, make it a point to check frequently for leaks and proper oil level. 20 The old oil drained from the engine cannot be reused in its present state and should be discarded. Oil reclamation centers, auto repair shops and gas stations will normally accept the oil. which can be refined and used again. After the oil has cooled, it can be drained into a suitable con-

tainer to

9

1

(capped

one

of

plastic jugs,

these disposal

topped

9.9

On 1983 and later models, press the lock tab and push the blade assembly out of the wiper arm hook to remove it

bottles, milk cartons, etc.) for transport

sites.

Windshield wiper blade inspection and replacement

The windshield wiper and blade assembly should be inspected peridamage, loose components and cracked or worn blade ele-

odically for

ments.

Road film can build up on the wiper blades and affect their efficiency, so they should be washed regularly with a mild detergent solution. 3 The action of the wiping mechanism can loosen bolts, nuts and fasteners, so they should be checked and tightened, as necessary, at the same time the wiper blades are checked. 4 If the wiper blade elements are cracked, worn or warped, or no longer clean adequately, they should be replaced with new ones. 5 Lift the arm assembly away from the glass for clearance. 2

9.10

Squeeze the rubber blade element tabs, pull the element out of the wiper frame metal support and remove it

1979 through 1982 models Refer

to Illustration 9.

up on the tab on the wiper blade and slide the blade assembly off arm pin. 7 Squeeze the retainer on the end of the rubber element and slide the element out of the frame (see illustration). 8 Insert the new element into the frame fully until the retainer locks it in

6

Lift

the wiper

place.

1983 and later models Refer

to illustrations 9.9. 9.

10

and

9.11

on the lock tab and push the blade assembly down the wiper arm. out of the hook at the end (see illustration). 1 Squeeze the end of the blade element tightly and pull the element out of the metal frame (see Illustration). 1 Remove the metal retainers from the element and install them in the new element (see illustration). 1 Insert the element into the frame and push it until the retainer locks. 13 Place the metal arm assembly in the hook on the wiper arms and 9

Press

press

it

in

into

place

until

the tab locks.

9.11

Install

the metal retainers inserting

it

in

the

into the

new wiper element frame

before

1

42

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

TO INCREASE PLAY

TO DECREASE PLAY

10.1

11.2

Clutch pedal adjustment details (hydraulic clutch models)

Clutch release fork adjustment details (hydraulic clutch models)

1

2 3

Locknut Stop bolt Locknut

Refer

A B

Freeplay

/

2

Pedal height

lightly

measure the distance

that

it

moves

steel ruler,

freely before the clutch resistance

(see illustration). The free play should be within the specified

3

limits.

must be adjusted. Loosen the locknut on the pedal end of the clutch pushrod. Turn the pushrod until pedal free play and pushrod freeplay are

isn't,

2

is If

Tighten the locknut. After adjusting the pedal free play,

6

If

until

pedal height

the height

is

is

check the pedal height. and turn the stop

incorrect, loosen the locknut

cor-

2

Ivlove the clutch release fork

securely on jackstands. forth

and measure the freeplay

(see illustration). If

the freeplay

is

not as specified, loosen the pushrod locknut, hold the

wrench and use a screwdriver to turn the pushrod and adjust the freeplay (see illustration 11.2). 4 Turn the pushrod to first take up any looseness, then back it off about two turns until the specified freeplay Is achieved. Hold the pushrod so that can't turn and tighten the locknut securely. it

correct. Tighten the locknut.

On 988 and later models adjust the clutch 1

1

Clutch release arm freeplay check and adjustment (cable-operated clutch models)

2

ing

it

it

Refer 1

Pull

on the clutch arm

to

check the freeplay

to illustrations 12.2

and

12.3

Raise the vehicle and support

12.3 12.2

it

back and

bolt

switch position after makany pedal height adjustment. Loosen the switch locknut and screw the switch in until contacts the pedal, then turn an additional 1 /4 to 1 /2 turn and tighten the locknut. 7

Raise the vehicle and support

adjusting nut from turning with a

rect.

5

Pushrod Release fork freeplay

to illustration 11.2

1

3

it

4

3

A

(hydraulic clutch models)

Refer

on the clutch pedal and, with a small

Locknut Adjusting nut

Clutch release fork freeplay check and adjustment

11

to illustration 10.

Press down

1

it

Pushrod

Clutch pedal height and freeplay check and adjustment (hydraulic clutch models)

10

felt

4

it

securely on jackstands.

Turn the knurled knob (arrow) (it Is easier to reach from the engine compartment) to adjust the clutch arm freeplay

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

13.6a

43

Battery terminal corrosion usually appears as fluffy

13.1

light,

powder

Tools and materials required for battery maintenance

Face shield/safety goggles - When removing corrosion with a brush, the acidic particles can easily fly up into

1

your eyes

Baking soda - A solution of baking soda and water can be used to neutralize corrosion Petroleum jelly - A layer of this on the battery posts will

2 3

help prevent corrosion

Battery post-cable cleaner - This wire brush cleaning tool will remove all traces of corrosion from the battery posts and cable clamps Treated felt washers - Placing one of these on each post, directly under the cable clamps, will help prevent corrosion Puller - Sometimes the cable clamps are very difficult to pull off the posts, even after the nut/bolt has been completely loosened. This tool pulls the clamp straight up and off the

4

5 6

post without damage. Battery post/cable cleaner - Here is another cleaning tool which is a slightly different version of number 4 above, but it

7

does the same thing Rubber gloves - Another safety item

8

servicing the battery:

13.6b Removing a cable from the battery post with a wrench sometimes a special battery pliers is required for this procedure if corrosion has caused deterioration of the nut hex (always remove the ground cable first and hook it up last!)

battery

maintenance is performed. Before servicing the battery, alway turn all accessories off and disconnect the cable from the nega-

the engine and to

consider

remember that's acid inside

when

tive terminal of the battery.

the battery!

3

The battery produces hydrogen gas, which is both flammable and exNever create a spark, smoke or light a match around the battery.

plosive.

2

Move the clutch

release arm up and

down and measure the freeplay

(see illustration). If the freeplay is not as specified, turn the knurled knob at the bracket 3 to adjust it (see illustration). Turn the knob counterclockwise to loosen the cable tension and clockwise to tighten it. Operate the clutch several times and recheck the freeplay, adjusting as necessary.

Battery check and maintenance

13

Always charge the battery in a ventilated area. 4 Electrolyte contains poisonous and corrosive sulfuric acid. Do not allow to get in your eyes, on your skin on on your clothes. Never ingest it. Wear protective safety glasses when working near the battery. Keep children away from the battery. Note the external condition of the battery. If the positive terminal and 5 cable clamp on your vehicle's battery is equipped with a rubber protector, make sure that its not torn or damaged. It should completely cover the terminal. Look for any corroded or loose connections, cracks in the case or cover or loose hold-down clamps. Also check the entire length of each it

cable for cracks and frayed conductors.

Refer 1

to illustrations 13.1. 13.6a, 13.6b,

13.7a

and 13.7b

A routine preventive maintenance program for the battery in

hicle

is

the only

way

to

6 your ve-

ensure quick and

reliable starts. But before per-

make

sure that you have the proper

forming any battery maintenance,

equipment necessary to work safely around the battery (see illustration). 2 There are also several precautions that should be taken whenever

If

corrosion, which looks

like

white, fluffy deposits (see illustration)

evident, particularly around the terminals, the battery should be

is

removed

Loosen the cable clamp nuts with a wrench, being careful to remove the ground cable first, and slide them off the terminals (see illustration). Then disconnect the hold-down clamp nuts, remove the clamp and lift the battery from the engine compartment. for cleaning.

1 2

44

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Regardless of the type of tool used to clean the battery

13.7a

post, a clean, shiny surface should be the result

When

13.7b

removed

cleaning the cable clamps, all corrosion must be clamp is tapered to match the taper on the post, so don't remove too much material)

(the Inside of the

7

the cable clamps and tighten the nuts, being careful to

cleaner and a solution of

cable

Clean the cable clamps thoroughly with a battery brush or a terminal warm water and baking soda (see illustration). Wash the terminals and the top of the battery case with the same solution but

make sure that the solution doesn't get into the battery. When cleaning

the cables, terminals and battery top,

wear safety goggles and rubber in contact with your eyes or

prevent any solution from coming

gloves

to

hands.

Wear

clothes

will

old clothes too

burn holes

in

- even

them.

If

diluted, sulfuric acid

the terminals have

splashed onto

wash

all

the negative

the hold-down clamp and nuts. Tighten the nuts only

hold the battery firmly

place. Overtightening these bolts

in

enough to

can crack the

battery case.

Further information on the battery, charging and

1

found

in

Chapter 5 and

at the front of this

jump

starting

can be

manual.

been extensively cor-

roded, clean them up with a terminal cleaner (see illustration). Thoroughly

Install

1

install

last.

cleaned areas with plain water.

14

Drivebelt check, adjustment

and replacement

engine compartment, inspect the plastic battery carrier. it's dirty or covered with corrosion, remove it and clean in the same solution of warm water and baking soda. Inspect the metal brackets which support the carrier to make sure that they are not covered with corrosion. If they are, wash them off. If corrosion is extensive, sand the brackets down to bare metal and spray them with a zinc-based primer (available In spray cans at auto paint and body supply stores). Reinstall the battery carrier and the battery back into the engine com9 partment. Make sure that no parts or wires are laying on the carrier during

ferred to as V-ribbed belts or simply "fan" belts, are located at the right

installation of the battery.

spected.

a pair of specially treated felt washers around the terminals (available at auto parts stores), then coat the terminals and the cable clamps with petroleum jelly or grease to prevent further corrosion. Install

2

Before reinstalling the battery

8

into the

Refer to

illustrations 14.2, 14.3. 14.4. 14.6

and

14.7

If

it

10

Install

Check 1

The

alternator

and

air

conditioning compressor drivebelts. also re-

end The good condition and proper adjustment of the alternator belt is critical to the operation of the engine. Because of their composition and the high stresses to which they are subjected, drivebelts stretch and deteriorate as they get older. They must therefore be penodically in-

of the engine.

The number of

belts

used on a

cessories installed.

One

belt transmits

alternator,

depends on the acpower from the crankshaft to the

particular vehicle

power steering pump and water pump (see illustration).

SMALL CRACKS

GREASE

ALWAYS CHECK GLAZED

the underside of the belt.

14.2 1

Typical drivebelt layout

Alternator and water punnp

2

Power steering pump

14.3 Here are some of the more common problems associated with drivebelts (check the belts very carefully to prevent an untimely breakdown)

If

your

1

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

45

ADJUSTING BOLT

BELT DEFLECTION

PIVOT BOLT

MAKE SURE RULER IS PERPENDICULAR TO STRAIGHT EDGE Measuring drivebelt deflection with a straightedge and ruler

14.4

vehicle

is

another

equipped with

air conditioning,

the AyC compressor

is

14.6

Typical

power steering pump drivebelt adjustment

A

details

= Drivebelt deflection

driven by

belt.

3

With the engine

end

of the engine.

off,

open the hood and

locate the drivebelts at the

left

With a flashlight, check each belt for separation of the adhesive rubber on both sides of the core, core separation from the belt a severed core, separation of the

side,

ribs

from the adhesive rubber,

cracking or separation of the nbs, and torn or worn ribs or cracks

in

the

inner ridges of the ribs (see illustration). Also check for fraying and glaz-

which gives the belt a shiny appearance. Both sides of the belt should be inspected, which means you will have to twist the belt to check the underside. Use your fingers to feel the belt where you cant see it. If any of the above conditions are evident, replace the belt (go to Step 8). 4 The tightness of each belt is checked by pushing on it at a distance halfway between the pulleys (see Illustration). Apply about 1 pounds of force with your thumb and see how much the belt moves down (deflects). Refer to the Specifications for the amount of deflection allowed in each ing,

belt.

5

If

adjustment

is

necessary,

it

is

done by moving the belt-driven acces-

sory on the bracket.

6

For

some components,

nut (see illustration). Both

will be a locking bolt and a pivot bolt or must be loosened slightly to enable you to the two bolts have been loosened, move the

there

Loosen the locknut

14.7

move the component. After component away from the engine (to tighten the belt) or toward the engine loosen the belt). After adjustment tighten the belts securely. 7 On some coTnponents, loosen the pivot bolt and locknut on the adjuster Turn the adjuster bolt to tension the belt (see Illustration).

(A)

and then turn the adjusting

bolt (B)

to adjust the drivebelt tension

(to

Replacement 8

To replace a

ment but

slip

belt, follow

the belt

off

the above procedures for drivebelt adjust-

remove If you are reremove the air conditioning

the crankshaft pulley and

placing the alternator belt, you

will

have

to

belt first

it

10

After replacing the drivebelt,

ribbed grooves

in

the pulleys.

It

is

make

sure that

it

fits

properly

in

the

essential that the belt be properly cen-

Adjust the belt(s)

General

in

accordance with the procedure outlined above.

High temperatures

1

in

and

the engine compartment can cause the deterio-

hoses used for engine, accessory and emission systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks. ration of the rubber

plastic

Information specific to the cooling system hoses can be found

2

in

Sec-

tion 16.

Some, but not all, hoses are secured to Where clamps are used, check to be sure they 3

the fittings with clamps.

haven't lost their tension,

If clamps aren't used, make sure the hose has expanded and/or hardened where slips over the fitting, allowing to

allowing the hose to leak. not

tered. 1

Caution: Replacement of air conditioning tioses must be left to a dealer service department or air conditioning shop ttiat has the equipment to depressurize the system safely. Never remove air conditioning components or hoses until the system has been depressurized.

it.

because of the way they are arranged on the crankshaft pulley Because of this and because belts tend to wear out more or less together, is a good idea to replace both belts at the same time. Mark each belt and its appropriate pulley groove so the replacement belts can be installed in their proper positions. 9 Take the old belts to the parts store in order to make a direct comparison for length, width and design. compressor

Underhood hose check and replacement

15

leak.

it

it

3

46

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

Vacuum hoses 4

It's

quite

the radiator.

common

for

vacuum hoses,

especially those

in

the emis-

sions system, to be color coded or identified by colored stripes molded into

them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When replacing hoses, be sure the 5

new ones are made

of the

same

from the vehicle.

hoses and

If

more than one hose ensure correct

fittings to

is

is

to

remove it completely

removed, be sure

to label the

When

A small piece of vacuum hose 1 /4-inch inside diameter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the "hissing" sound characteristic of a vacuum leak. Warning: When probing with the vacuum hose stethoscope, be very careful not to come into contact with 7

{

moving engine components such as the

drivebelts, cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hose

Check all rubber fuel

cially for

cracks

it's

should be drained and

If

the coolant level

refilled

(Section 29).

rust colored, the

the top, add additional antifreeze/coolant mixture (see Section

4

system up to

isn't

4).

Carefully check the large upper and lower radiator hoses along with fire-

any hose which is cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may become more apparent the hose is squeezed (see illustration). Regardless of condition, it's a good idea to replace hoses with new ones every two years. Make sure that all hose connections are tight. A leak in the cooling 5 system will usually show up as white or rust colored deposits on the areas adjoining the leak. If wire-type clamps are used at the ends of the hoses, it may be a good idea to replace them with more secure screw-type clamps. 6 Use compressed air or a soft brush to remove bugs, leaves, etc. from wall. Inspect

each hose along

its

entire length, replacing

the front of the radiator or air conditioning condenser.

damage

Every other inspection, or

7

Be

careful not to

the delicate cooling fins or cut yourself on them. at the first indication of cooling

system

problems, have the cap and system pressure tested. If you don't have a pressure tester, most gas stations and repair shops will do this for a mini-

Warning: There are certain precautions which must be taken when inspecting or sen/icing fuel system components. Work in a well ventilated area and do not allow open flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) or bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop up any spills immediately and do not store fuel soaked rags where they could ignite. On vehicles equipped with fuel injection, the fuel system is under pressure, so if any fuel lines are to be disconnected, the pressure in the system must be relieved first (see Chapter 4 for more information). 8

The coolant inside

If

if

installation.

checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks and the hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion, which could cause leakage. 6

traces of corrosion should be removed.

the smaller diameter heater hoses which run from the engine to the

material.

Often the only effective way to check a hose

All

the radiator should be relatively transparent.

in

lines for deterioration

mal charge.

ALWAYS CHECK hose tor chafed burned areas that may cause an untimely and costly failure

or

and chafing. Check espe-

areas where the hose bends and just before

fittings,

such as where a hose attaches to the fuel filter. 9 High quality fuel line, usually identified by the word Fluroelastomer printed on the hose, should be used for fuel line replacement. Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel lines. 1 Spnng-type clamps are commonly used on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their tension over a period of time, and can be "sprung" during removal. Replace all spring-type clamps with screw clamps whenever a hose is replaced.

SOFT

hose indicates mside deterioration

This deterioration can contaminate the

cooling system

and cause particles

to

clog the radiator

Metal lines 11

Sections of metal

line

are often used for fuel line between the fuel

pump and

fuel injection unit.

been bent

or crimped

Check

HARDENED hose can fail at any time Tightening hose clamps will not seal the connection or stop leaks

be sure the line has not have not started in the line. 12 If a section of metal fuel line must be replaced, only seamless steel tubing should be used, since copper and aluminum tubing don't have the strength necessary to withstand normal engine vibration. 1 Check the metal brake lines where they enter the master cylinder and

and

carefully to

that cracks

SWOLLEN

of the

16

brake system.

2

or

soaked ends

in

grease

that cause leaks

to illustration 16.4

Many major engine

16.4 Hoses, like drivebelts. have a habit of failing at the worst possible time - to prevent the inconvenience of a blown radiator or heater hose, inspect them carefully as shown here

can be attributed to a faulty cooling system. If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, the cooling system also cools the transmission fluid and thus plays an important role in

oil

contamination Squeeze the hose to locate cracks and breaks

oil

Cooling system check

Refer 1

hose or

dicate danger and possible failure from

brake proportioning unit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate thorough inspection

failures

prolonging transmission

The

life.

cooling system should be checked with the engine cold.

before the vehicle

is

driven for the day or after the engine has

Do this

been shut off

17

Tire rotation

for at least three hours.

Remove the radiator cap by turning it to the left until reaches a stop. you hear a hissing sound (indicating there is still pressure in the system), wait until stops. Now press down on the cap with the palm of your hand and continue turning to the left until the cap can be removed. Thoroughly clean the cap. inside and out, with clean water Also clean the filler neck on 3

it

If

it

Refer

to illustration

1

7.2

The tires should be rotated at the specified intervals and whenever uneven wear is noticed. Since the vehicle will be raised and the tires re1

moved anyway, check 2

Radial

tires

the brakes (Section 19) at this time must be rotated in a specific pattern (see illustration).

Chapter Refer to the information

3

in

1

Jacking and towing at tfie front of tfiis man-

ual for thie proper procedures to follow whien raising the vehicle ing a

tire.

If

and chang-

the brakes are to be checked, do not apply the parking brake as

Make sure the tires are blocked to prevent the vehicle from rolling. Preferably, the entire vehicle should be raised at the same time. This

stated.

4

can be done on a hoist or by jacking up each corner and then lowering the vehicle onto jackstands placed under the frame rails. Always use four jackstands and make sure the vehicle is firmly supported. After rotation, check and adjust the tire pressures as necessary and 5 be sure to check the lug nut tightness. For further information on the wheels and tires, refer to Chapter 1 0. 6

18

3

Place the number one piston (closest to the dnvebelt end of the enTop Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke. This is ac-

gine) at

complished on 1979 and 1980 models by rotating the crankshaft pulley counterclockwise until the UP mark on the back of the camshaft sprocket is at its uppermost point, with the keyway facing up (see illustration). On 1982 and later models, the UP mark on the back side of the timing belt sprocket should be at the top and the TDC marks are lined up with the cylinder head surface (see illustration). On Dual Overhead Cam (DOHC) engines, the UP marks should be at the top (see illustration). The distributor rotor should be pointing at the number one cylinder spark plug wire on all models.

TIMING

illustrations 18.4a. 18.4b. 18.4c. 18.5a, 18.5b, 18.5c and 18.7 The valve clearances are checked and adjusted with the engine cold.

2

4

Valve clearance check and adjustment

Refer to 1

Remove Remove

the

air

cleaner assembly (Chapter

the camshaft cover (Chapter

47

Tune-up and routine maintenance

MARK

ALIGNED WITH ARROW ON CYLINDER HEAD UP'

MARK AT TOP

4).

2).

ARROW FRONT

rtn

— R*l 17.2

The recommended

tire

l— &• rotation pattern for these

models

DIRECTION

OF ROTATION On 1979 and 1980 models, the numt>er 1 piston is TDC when the UP mark is at the top with the keyway

18.4a at

facing up as

shown

1 PISTON AT TDC UP-

No.

MARK

Of$/M

On 1982 through 1989 SOHC models, the engine is at TDC when the UP mark on the back side of the timing belt sprocket is visible and the TDC marks line up with the top of the cylinder

18.4b

head (arrows)

18.4c

Dual Overhead

Cam (DOHC) engine number 1 TDC position

piston at

Chapter

48

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

18.5b 1

8.5a

Valve layout for Single Overhead 12-valve engine

Cam (SOHC)

Valve adjustment screw locations and numbering on SOHC 12 valve engines

EXHAUST No.

No.

No. 2

1

No. 2

1

0/S2H

No. 3

No. 4

No. 4

INTAKE

DOHC engine valve layout

18.5c

5

No. 3

With the engine

In this position,

the

number one

cylinder valves

be checked and adjusted (see illustrations). 6 Stan with the intake valve clearance. Insert the appropnate size feeler gauge between the Intake valve stem and the adjusting screw. Carefully tighten the adjusting screw until you can feel a slight drag on the feeler gauge as you withdraw from between the stem and adjusting screw. 7 Hold the adjusting screw with a screwdriver (to keep from turning) hasn't and tighten the locknut. Recheck the clearance to make sure changed (see illustration). On Single Overhead Cam (SOHC) engines, the exhaust and (early 8 models) auxiliary valve adjusting screws are located on a common rocker arm. On DOHC engines the intake and exhaust valve each have their own camshaft. Loosen the locknut on the exhaust valve adjusting screw. Turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise and insert the appropriate size feeler gauge between the valve stem and the adjusting screw. Carefully tighten the adjusting screw until you can feel a slight drag on the feeler gauge as you withdraw from between the stem and adjusting screw 9 Hold the adjusting screw with a screwdriver (to keep from turning) hasn't and tighten the locknut. Recheck the clearance to make sure changed. 10 Rotate the engine 180-degrees counterclockwise (the camshaft pulley will turn 90-degrees) until the number 3 cylinder is at TDC. With the number 3 cylinder at TDC. the UP mark on the camshaft pulley should not be visible (1979 through 1987 models) or should be at the exhaust side (1 988 and later models) and the distributor rotor will point at the number 3 plug wire Check and adjust the number 3 cylinder valves It

it

It

it

18.7

can

1

1 80-degrees counterclockwise until the number 4 TDC. With the number 4 cylinder at TDC on SOHC engines, TDC marks will be visible. On DOHC engines the UP marks on the

Rotate the engine

cylinder

the

Hold the locknut from turning with a wrench and turn the adjustment screw with a screwdriver

is

at

sprockets should point straight down. will

be pointing

the

number 4

at the

On

all

engines, the distnbutor rotor

number 4 cylinder spark plug wire. Check and adjust

cylinder valves.

Rotate the engine 1 80-degrees counterclockwise to bnng the number 2 cylinder to TDC. On 1979 through 1987 models, the UP mark on the 1

and the TDC groove will be aligned with On 988 and later models the UP mark(s) should be on the intake side. On all models the distnbutor rotor will point at the number 2 plug wire. Check and adjust the number 2 cylinder

camshaft pulley should be the indentation

in

visible

the timing belt cover

1

valves. 1

Install

the rocker

arm cover and the

air

cleaner assembly.

it

it

19

Brake system check

Note: For detailed photographs ol the brake system, refer to Chapter 9 In addition to the specified intervals, the brakes should be inspected 1 every time the wheels are removed or whenever a defect is suspected. Any of the following symptoms could indicate a potential brake system de-

fect:

The vehicle

pulls to

one side when the brake pedal

is

depressed: the

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

49

FRICTION MATERIAL

#

19.9 If a more precise measurement of pad thickness is necessary, remove the pads and measure the remaining friction material - spraying the pad with brake cleaner will help you determine where the pad material ends and the steel backing plate begins

You will find an inspection hole like this in each caliper placing a steel ruler across the hole should enable you to determine the thickness of remaining pad material

19.6

brakes

make

squealing or dragging noises

excessive: the pedal pulsates; brake the

2

tire

when

fluid leaks,

applied: brake travel

is

usually onto the Inside of

or wheel.

The disc brake pads have

wear indicators which should make when they are worn to the renoise, replace the pads immediately

built-in

a high pitched squealing or scraping noise

placement point. or exfjensive

3

When you hear this

damage

Loosen the wheel

to the rotors

can

result.

lug nuts.

19.14

The

Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. 5 Remove the wheels (see Jacking and towing at the front of this book, or your owners manual, if necessary). 4

rear brake

shoe

lining thickness (A) is

measured from

the outer surface of the lining to the metal shoe

Rear drum brakes Disc brakes Refer 6

Refer

to illustrations

1

9. 6

and

19.9

There are two pads - an outer and an inner- in each caliper. The pads in each caliper (see illustra-

are visible through small inspection holes tion)

7

.

Check the pad thickness by

looking at each end of the caliper

and

through the inspection hole in the caliper body. If the lining material is less than the specified thickness, replace the pads. Note: Keep in mind that the

a metal backing plate and the metal portion is not included in this measurement. If it is difficult to determine the exact thickness of the remaining pad 8 material by the above method, or if you are at all concerned about the condition of the pads, remove the caliper(s), then remove the pads from the calipers for further inspection (refer to Chapter 9). 9 Once the pads are removed from the calipers, clean them with brake cleaner and remeasure them with a small steel pocket ruler (see illustralining material is riveted or bonded to

tion) or a vernier caliper. 1

any disc is thinner than the specified minimum thickness, replace it (refer to Chapter 9). Even if the rotor has service life remaining, check its condition. Look for sconng. gouging and burned spots. If these conditions exist, remove the rotor and have resurfaced (refer to Chapter 9). 1 Before installing the wheels, check all brake lines and hoses for damage, wear, deformation, cracks, corrosion, leakage, tjends and twists, particularly in the vicinity of the rubber hoses at the calipers. Check the clamps for tightness and the connections for leakage. Make sure that all hoses and lines are clear of sharp edges, moving parts and the exhaust system. If any of the above conditions are noted, repair, reroute or replace the lines and/or fittings as necessary (refer to Chapter 9). sure that

it

it

still

has service

Refer

19.14

to

NO T bio w it out with compressed air and DO NO T inhale It! DO NO Tuse gasoline or solvents to remove the dust. Brake system cleaner should be used to flush the dust into a drain pan. After the brake components are wiped clean with a damp rag. dispose of the contaminated rag(s) and solvent in a covered and labelled container Try to use non-asbestos replacement parts whenever possible. 1 Note the thickness of the lining material on the rear brake shoes (see illustration) and look for signs of contamination by brake fluid and grease. If the lining material is within 1 16-inch of the recessed rivets or metal shoes, replace the brake shoes with new ones. The shoes should also be if they are cracked, glazed (shiny lining surfaces) or contaminated with brake fluid or grease. See Chapter 9 for the replacement proce-

replaced dure.

Measure the disc rotor thickness with a micrometer (see Chapter 9) to

make

to illustration

Chapter 9 and remove the rear brake drums. 1 Warning: Brake dust produced by lining wear and deposited on brake components contains asbestos, which is hazardous to your health. DO 1

life

remaining.

If

15 Check the shoe return and hold-down springs and the adjusting mechanism to make sure they're installed correctly and in good condition. Deteriorated or distorted springs,

if

not replaced, could allow the linings to

drag and wear prematurely. 1

Check the wheel

cylinders for leakage by carefully peeling back the

rubber boots. If brake fluid is noted behind the boots, the wheel cylinders must be replaced (see Chapter 9).

Check

drums

for cracks, score marks, deep scratches and hard appear as small discolored areas. If imperlections cannot be removed with emery cloth, the drums must be resurfaced by an automotive machine shop (see Chapter 9 for more detailed information). Refer to Chapter 9 and install the brake drums. 1 Install the wheels and snug the wheel lug nuts finger tight. 1 1

the

spots, which

will

50

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

AIR CLEANER COVER

'AIR

CLEANER ELEMENT

AIR

Typical air cleaner details

20.2

20

Remove

21

Tighten the wheel lug nuts to the specified torque.

the jackstands

and lower the

system

vehicle.

2

Sit in

the dnver's seat and perform the following

sequence

of tests.

With the engine stopped, depress the brake pedal several times- the change. 24 With the brake fully depressed, start the engine - the pedal should move down a little when the engine starts. 25 Depress the brake, stop the engine and hold the pedal in for about 30

travel distance should not

seconds the pedal should neither sink nor rise. 26 Restart the engine, run for about a minute and turn off. Then firmly depress the brake several times - the pedal travel should decrease with each application. 27 If your brakes do not operate as described above when the preceding tests are performed, the brake booster is either in need of repair or has failed. Refer to Chapter 9 for the removal procedure. •

it

it

until

pull

the handle

if

it

it

.

Air

Refer to 1

and crankcase

illustration

filter

filter

filtered air

On downdraft carburetor-equipped models, be careful not to drop 3 anything down into the carburetor or air cleaner assembly while the top plate

is off.

removing the air cleaner element, wipe out the inside of the housing with a clean rag. 5 Place a new filter element in the housing, making sure it seats secure-

4

After

ly

The PCV filter is also located inside the air cleaner housing or in a 6 housing mounted on it on some carburetor equipped models. The PCV filelement should be replaced

if

it

is

clogged or dripping

oil.

On PVC filters mounted in the air cleaner, remove the air cleaner element as previously descnbed. Locate the PCV filter, pull out of the housit

ing

and press the new one

8

Install

9

On PCV filters

the

taining screws,

air

into place. Install the air

cleaner element.

cleaner cover.

a housing on the air cleaner, remove the refilter housing and pull the old PCV filter the housing. Install the new element and install the PCV located

in

remove the PCV

element out of filter housing on the

air

cleaner.

Fuel system check

replacement

20.2

filter element and (if equipped) the should be replaced with new ones. On some models, the PCV

At the specified intervals, the air

PCV

cleaner supplies

the housing.

21

20

air

7

up on the parking brake and count the number of clicks you will go. The adjustment is correct is up as far as you hear the specified number of clicks. If you hear more or fewer clicks, it's time to adjust the parking brake (refer to Chapter 9). 29 An alternative method of checking the parking brake is to park the vehicle on a steep hill with the parking brake set and the transmission in Neutral. If the parking brake cannot prevent the vehicle from rolling, is in need of adjustment (see Chapter 9). Slowly

hear

cleaner mounted on the engine

is replaced by unscrewing the wingnut at the top of the filter housing, unsnapping the clips and lifting off the cover (see Illustration). On sidedratt carburetor and fuel injection models, remove the wingnut (if equipped), unsnap the clips, pull the air cleaner cover away and slide the filter out of

ter

Parking brake 28

air

PCV system. On downdraft carburetors, the filter is located on top of the engine and

to the

Brake booster check 22 23

CLEANER

Warning: Certain precautions should be observed when inspecting or servicing the fuel system components Work in a well ventilated area and do not allow open flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) near the work area Mop up spills immediately and do not store fuel soaked rags where they could ignite It is a good idea to keep a dry chemical (Class B)

Chapter

22.1

will

4

51

have special padding inside Spark plug manufacturers recommend using a wire-type if the wire does not slide between the electrodes with a slight drag, adjustment is required

22.4a this tool is

gauge when checking the gap -

the best way to ensure the plugs are tightened properly Ratchet - Standard hand tool to fit the spark plug socket Extension - Depending on model and accessories, you may need special extensions and universal joints to reach one or

3

more of the plugs Spark plug gap gauge - This gauge for checking the gap comes in a variety of styles. Make sure the gap for your

5

engine

fire

This

protect the spark plug's porcelain insulator

Torque wrench - Although not mandatory, using

2

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Tools required for changing spark plugs

Spark plug socket to

1

is

included.

extinguisher near the work area any time the fuel system is being serv-

iced. 1

in

If

you smell gasoline while driving or after the vehicle has been

sitting

the sun, inspect the fuel system immediately.

2 Remove the gas filler cap and inspect for damage and corrosion. The gasket should have an unbroken sealing imprint. If the gasket is damaged or corroded, remove and install a new one. 3 Inspect the fuel feed and return lines for cracks. Make sure that the fuel line connections are tight. Warning: It is necessary to relieve the fuel system pressure on fuel injection-equipped models before servicing fuel system components. The correct procedures for fuel system pressure reif

it

are outlined in Chapter 4. Since some components of the fuel system - the fuel tank and part of the fuel feed and return lines, for example - are underneath the vehicle, they can be inspected more easily with the vehicle raised on a hoist. If lief

4

and secure

on jackstands. With the vehicle raised and safely supported, inspect the gas tank and 5 filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and the tank is particularly critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck will leak because of loose clamps or deteriorated rubber. These are problems a home mechanic can usually rectify. Warning: Do not. under any circumstances, try to repair a fuel tank (except rubber components). A welding torch or any open flame can easily cause fuel vapors that's not possible, raise the vehicle

it

22.4b To change the gap, bend the side electrode only, as indicated by the arrows, and be very careful not to crack or chip the porcelain insulator surrounding the center electrode porcelain insulator of the spark plug and to hold the plug while you insert

2

If

you are replacing the plugs, purchase the new plugs, adjust them to

the proper gap and then replace each plug one at a time. Note:

inside the tank to explode.

ing new spark plugs,

check all rubber hoses and metal lines leading away from Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Carefully inspect the lines from the tank to the fuel

specific vehicle. This Information

6

Carefully

the fuel tank.

injection

system or carburetor

.

Repair or replace

damaged

sections as

necessary.

22

Spark plug check and replacement

Refer

to illustrations 22.

1.

22.4a. 22.4b. 22.6

and 22. 10

Spark plug replacement requires a spark plug socket which fits onto a ratchet wrench. This socket is lined with a rubber grommet to protect the 1

it

spark plug hole. You will also need a wire-type feeler gauge to check and adjust the spark plug gap and a torque wrench to tighten the new plugs to the specified torque (see illustration). into the

it

When buy-

s essential that you obtain the correct plugs for your

can be found on the Vehicle Emissions

Control Information (VECI) label located on the underside of the hood or in the owner s manual.

If

these two sources specify different plugs, purchase

the sparkplug type specified on the

VECI label because that information is

provided specifically for your engine. Inspect each of the new plugs for defects. If there are any signs of 3 cracks in the porcelain insulator of a plug, don't use it. 4 Check the electrode gaps of the new plugs. Check the gap by inserting the wire gauge of the proper thickness between the electrodes at the tip of the plug (see illustration). The gap between the electrodes should be identical to that specified on the VECI label. If the gap is incorrect, use the notched adjuster on the feeler gauge body to bend the curved side electrode slightly (see illustration).

52

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

TWIST AND PULL

When removing

22.6

the spark plug wires, pull only on the boot

and use a twisting/pulling motion 22.10 A length of 3/16-inch ID rubber hose will save time and prevent damaged threads when installing the spark plugs If the side electrode is not exactly over the center electrode, use the notched adjuster to align them. Caution: If the gap of a new plug must be adjusted, bend only the base of the ground electrode do not touch the tip.

5

BROKEN TOWER

Removal To prevent the possibility of mixing up spark plug wires, work on one 6 spark plug at a time. Remove the wire and boot from one spark plug. Grasp the boot - not the cable - as shown, give it a half twisting motion and pull straight

up (see illustration)

air is available, blow any dirt or foreign material away from the spark plug area before proceeding (a common bicycle pump will

7

If

compressed

also work).

8

Remove

the spark plug.

Whether you are replacing the plugs at this time or intend to reuse the old plugs, compare each old spark plug with those shown in the accompa9

nying photos to determine the overall running condition of the engine.

Installation 10

It's

often

difficult to insert

spark plugs

threading them. To avoid this possibility,

into their

fit

holes without cross-

a short piece of 3/16-inch ID

rubber hose over the end of the spark plug (see illustration). The flexible hose acts as a universal joint to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage. Tighten the plug securely. 1 Attach the plug wire to the new spark plug, again using a twisting motion on the boot until is firmly seated on the end of the spark plug. 1 Follow the above procedure for the remaining spark plugs, replacing them one at a time to prevent mixing up the spark plug wires.

CRACK

CARBON TRACK

CHARRED OR ERODED TERMINALS

it

23

Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement

Refer 1

to illustrations 23.

1 1

and 23. 12

The spark plug wires should be checked whenever new spark plugs

are installed.

Begin this procedure by making a visual check of the spark plug wires is running. In a darkened garage (make sure there is ventilation) start the engine and observe each plug wire Be careful not to come into contact with any moving engine parts. If there is a break in the wire, you will see arcing or a small spark at the damaged area. If arcing is 2

while the engine

noticed,

CARBON TRACK

check the distnbutor cap and rotor. The spark plug wires should be inspected one at a time to prevent 3 mixing up the order, which is essential for proper engine operation Each onginal plug wire should be numbered to help identity its location If the

WORN OR DAMAGED ROTOR BUTTON

make a note to obtain new wires, then allow the engine to cool and

Shown here are some of the common defects to look when inspecting the distributor cap (if in doubt about its condition, install a new one)

23.11

for

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

53

INSUFFICIENT SPRING TENSION

ROTOR TIP

CORRODED 23.12 The ignition rotor should be checked for wear and corrosion as indicated here (if in doubt about its condition, buy a new one)

number is

illegible,

a piece of tape can be marked with the correct number

and wrapped around the plug

The manual transaxle drain (1) and fill are located on the side of the case

24.1

Disconnect the plug wire from the spark plug. A removal tool can be used for this purpose or you can grasp the rubber boot, twist the boot half a turn and pull the boot free. Do not pull on the wire itself. Check inside the boot for corrosion, which will look like a white crusty 5 4

it. If

the lubricant level

is

plugs

see a plug (see illustration). should be up to the lower edge

will

correct,

it

of the hole.

2

If

the transaxle needs

more lubricant (if the

level is not

up to the

hole),

use a syringe to add more. Stop filling the transaxle when the lubricant begins to run out the hole.

powder.

3

Push the wire and boot back onto the end of the spark plug. It should fit tightly onto the end of the plug. If doesn't, remove the wire and use pliers

tance, then check for leaks.

6

you

front side of the transaxle housing,

Remove

wire.

(2)

Install

the plug and tighten

it

securely. Drive the vehicle a short dis-

it

to carefully

crimp the metal connector inside the wire boot

until

the

fit

is

snug.

Steering and suspension check

25

Using a clean rag. wipe the entire length of the wire to remove built-up dirt and grease. Once the wire is clean, check for burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the wire sharply, because the conductor might 7

Disconnectthe wire from the distributor. Again, pull only on the rubber boot. Check for corrosion and a tight fit. Replace the wire in the distributor. Inspect the remaining spark plug wires, making sure that each one is 9 securely fastened at the distributor and spark plug when the check is com8

If

new spark plug wires are required, purchase a set for your specific

engine model. Pre-cut wire sets with the boots already installed are able. Remove and replace the wires one at a time to avoid mix-ups

availin

the

Detach the distributor cap by removing the two cap retaining bolts. Look inside it for cracks, carbon tracks and worn, burned or loose contacts 11

(see illustration). 12 Pull the rotor off the distributor shaft and examine

bon tracks (see

illustration).

Replace the cap and

if

and carany damage or

rotor

whenever new

it

for cracks

rotor

defects are noted. It

is

common

practice to install a

new cap and

spark plug wires are installed. 1

7 and 25.8

illustrations of the steering

and suspension compo-

nents, refer to Ctiapter 10.

With the wheels on the ground With the vehicle stopped and the front wheels pointed straight ahead, If free play is excessive a front wheel beanng, main shaft yoke, intermediate shaft yoke, lower arm 1

balljoint or steering

system

joint is

.

worn or the steering gear

justment or broken. Refer to Chapter

1

is

out of ad-

for the appropriate repair proce-

dure.

finng order.

13

to illustrations 25.

rock the steenng wheel gently back and forth.

plete. 1

Refer

Note: For detailed

break.

When installing a new cap. remove the wires from the old cap one at a

time and attach them to the

simultaneously remove

all

new cap

in

the exact

same

the wires from the old cap or

locationfiring

do not

order mix-

ups may occur

Other symptoms, such as excessive vehicle body movement over rough roads, swaying (leaning) around corners and binding as the steering wheel IS turned, may indicate faulty steering and/or suspension components. Check the shock absorbers by pushing down and releasing the ve3 hicle several times at each corner. If the vehicle does not come back to a level position within one or two bounces, the shocks'struts are worn and must be replaced. When bouncing the vehicle up and down, listen for squeaks and noises from the suspension components. Additional information on suspension components can be found in Chapter 10. 2

Under the vehicle 4

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack and support it securely on jackSee Jacking and towing at the front of this book for the proper jack-

stands.

ing points.

24

Manual transaxle lubricant

level

check

5

Check the tires for irregular wear patterns (see Section 5) and proper

inflation.

Refer

to illustration 24.

6

The manual transaxle does not have a dipstick. To check the lubricant level, raise the vehicle and support securely on jackstands. On the lower 1

it

Inspect the universal joint between the steering shaft and the steering

gear housing. Check the steering gear housing ing.

for

grease leakage or ooz-

Make sure that the dust seals and t>oots are not damaged and that the

Chapter

54

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Pry between the balljoint and suspension arm to check for

25.7

movement

indicating balljoint

25.8

Push on the

balljoint

boot to check for tears or

lubricant leaks

wear

Driveaxle boot check

26

Refer

26.2

to illustration

The driveaxle boots are very important because they prevent dirt, water and foreign material from entering and damaging the constant velocity 1

(CV)

joints.

and cracks as well as loose clamps (see any evidence of cracks or leaking lubricant, they must be replaced as described in Chapter 8.

2

Inspect the boots for tears

illustration).

If

there

is

Carburetor choke check

27

1 The choke operates only when the engine is cold, so this check should be performed before the engine has been started for the day. 2 Remove the cover of the air cleaner assembly. If any vacuum hoses

must be disconnected, make sure you tag the hoses 26.2

Flex the driveaxle boots by

hand

to

check

for

cracks or

leaking grease

their

for reinstallation in

onginal positions. Place the cover aside, out of the

way of moving en-

gine components.

3

Look at the center of the carburetor(s) You will notice a flat plate at the .

carburetor opening.

boot clamps are not loose. Check the steering linkage for looseness or damage. Check the tierod ends for excessive play. Look for loose bolts, broken or disconnected parts and deteriorated rubber bushings on all sus-

pension and steering components. While an assistant turns the steering wheel from side to side, check the steering components for free movement, chafing and binding. If the steering components do not seem to be reacting with the movement of the steenng wheel, try to determine where the slack

is

it

If

have play, replace it. Refer to Chapter

1

for the front balljoint

replacement

procedure.

10).

damage and leaking grease (see Illusnew ones they are damaged (Chapter

Inspect the balljoint boots for

tration) Replace the boots with

Press the accelerator pedal

pletely Start the engine while

open

slightly.

Allow the engine to continue running at an idle speed. As the engine warms up to operating temperature, the plate(s) should slowly open, al5

lowing more

located.

Check the balljoints for wear by first raising the vehicle and supporting on jackstands. Move each lower arm up and down with a pry bar (see any balljoint does illustration) to ensure that its balljoint has no play. 7

8

to the floor The plate should close comyou watch the plate at the carburetor(s). Don't position your face near the carburetor, as the engine could backfire, causing serious burns. When the engine starts, the choke plate(s) should

4

if

air to enter through the top of the carburetor{s). few minutes, the choke plate(s) should be fully open to the vertical position. Blip the throttle to make sure the fast idle cam disengages. You'll notice that the engine speed corresponds with the plate open7 ing With the plate(s) fully closed, the engine should run at a fast idle speed. As the plate(s) opens and the throttle is moved to disengage the fast idle cam. the engine speed will decrease. Refer to Chapter 4 for specific information on adjusting and servicing 8

6

After a

the choke

components

Chapter

Squeeze the PCV hose gently with pair of to protect the hose surface

28.5

28

1

pliers

- use a

have to remove a cover for access bottom of the radiator before opening the valve, push a short section of 3 8-inch diameter plastic hose onto the plastic fitting to prevent the coolant from splashing as it drains

On most models you

29.4

rag

29

Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and

Refer to illustration

will

to the radiator drain fitting located at the

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve - check and replacement

Refer

55

Tune-up and routine maintenance

to illustrations

refilling)

29.4 and 29. 13

28.5

The PCV system used on some carburetor-equipped models incorPCV valve which is located in the rocker arm cover or in the crankcase breather chamber or the hose which connects to the intake manifold. The PCV valve requires different checking procedures, depending on location because or the inaccessibility of the breather mounted 1

porates a

it

valve.

Warning: Antifreeze is a corrosive and poisonous solution, so be careful not to spill any of the coolant mixture on the vehicle s paint or your skin. If this happens, rinse immediately with plenty of clean water Consult local authorities regarding proper disposal procedures for antifreeze before draining the cooling system. In many areas, reclamation centers have

used oil and coolant mixtures. system should be drained, flushed and refilled to replenish the antifreeze mixture and prevent formation of rust and corrosion, which can impair the performance of the cooling system and cause engine damage. When the cooling system is sen/iced, all hoses and the radiator cap should be checked and replaced necessary. been established 1

Check Rocker arm mounted

PCV

valve

to collect

Periodically, the cooling

if

With the engine idling at normal operating temperature, pull the valve (with hose attached) from the rubber grommet in the cover. 3 Place your finger over the valve opening. If there's no vacuum at the valve, check for a plugged hose or the valve itself. Replace any plugged or

2

4

Turn the engine

the valve doesn't

Draining 2

deteriorated hoses. off

rattle,

and shake the replace

it

PCV valve,

with a

new

listening for

a

rattle.

If

Apply the parking brake and block the wheels. If the vehicle has just driven, wait several hours to allow the engine to cool down before

been

beginning

one.

3

Crankcase breather mounted PCV valve

4

this

procedure.

Once the engine is completely cool, remove the radiator cap. Move a large container under the radiator drain to catch the coolant.

normal operating temperature, squeeze the PCV hose located at the top of the engine gently shut with a pair of pliers, using a rag to protect the hose surface (see illustration). Pinch the hose

Attach a 3 8-inch inner diameter hose to the drain fitting to direct the coolant into the container (some models are already equipped with a hose), then open the drain fitting (a pair of pliers may be required to turn it) (see

as lightly as possible: the point is to close it off without damaging the hose. If the PCV Is operating properly it will make a clicking sound when the 6 hose is pinched shut. If does not, replace the valve. 7 Check the hoses between the intake manifold and breather chamber for damage. Replace any plugged or deteriorated hoses.

After the coolant stops flowing out of the radiator, move the container 5 under the engine block drain plugs on the front side of the engine. Loosen the plugs and allow the coolant in the block to drain.

5

With the engine

idling at

it

Replacement 8

Disconnect the valve from the hose, noting

its

installed position

and

illustration).

While the coolant is draining, check the condition of the radiator hoses, heater hoses and clamps (refer to Section 16 if necessary). Replace any damaged clamps or hoses (refer to Chapter 3 for de7

6

tailed

replacement procedures).

direction.

9

When

purchasing a replacement PCV valve, make sure it's for your and engine size. Compare the old valve with a new one

particular vehicle to 1

make

sure they're the same.

Push the

PCV

valve and hose securely into position.

Flushing Once the system is completely drained, flush the radiator with fresh water from a garden hose until water runs clear at the drain. The flushing 8

56

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine nnaintenance

will remove sediments from the radiator but will not reand scale from the engine and cooling tube surfaces. These deposits can be removed by the chemical action of a cleaner.

action of the water

move 9

rust

Follow the procedure outlined diator

is

severely corroded,

in

the manufacturers instructions.

damaged

or leaking,

it

If

the ra-

should be removed

(Chapter 3) and taken to a radiator repair shop. 1 Remove the overflow hose from the coolant recovery reservoir. Drain the reservoir and flush it with clean water, then reconnect the hose.

Check the pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrodamage. Make sure that all brackets and hangers are in good condition and tight. 2

sion or

3

At the

same time,

1

Close and tighten the radiator drain.

Install

and tighten the block drain

plug. 1 1

Place the heater temperature control in the maximum heat position. Open the bleeder screw in the thermostat housing (see illustration).

etc.

mounts and hangers. Try to move the pipes, muffler and catthe components can come in contact with the body or suspension parts, secure the exhaust system with new mounts. Check the running condition of the engine by inspecting inside the end 5 of the tailpipe. The exhaust deposits here are an indication of engine stateof-tune. If the pipe is black and sooty or coated with white deposits, the engine is in need of a tune-up, including a thorough fuel system inspection and adjustment. especially the

alytic converter.

Refilling

inspect the underside of the body for holes, corro-

which may allow exhaust gases to enter the passenger compartment. Seal all body openings with silicone or body putty. 4 Rattles and other noises can often be traced to the exhaust system,

open seams,

sion,

Brake

31

If

fluid

replacement

Because brake

absorbs moisture which could ultimately cause air which could make the braking system less effective, the fluid should be replaced at the specified intervals. This job can be accomplished for a nominal fee by a properly equipped brake shop using a pressure bleeder. The task can also be done by the home mechanic with the help of an assistant. To bleed the air and old fluid and replace it with fresh fluid from sealed containers, refer to the brake bleeding procedure In Chapter 9. If there is any possibility that incorrect fluid has been used in the sys2 1

fluid

corrosion of the brake components, and

tem, drain

all

the fluid and flush the system with alcohol. Replace

seals and cups, since they

will

be affected and could possibly

all

piston

fail

under

pressure.

Automatic transaxle

32

fluid

change

At the specified time intervals, the automatic transaxle fluid should

1

be

drained and replaced.

29.13 The coolant bleeder screw (arrow) is located on the thermostat housing - the screw must be opened during the filling process to bleed air out of the system

Before beginning work, purchase the specified transmission

2

Recommended

(see

lubricants

and

fluid

fluids at the front of this Chapter).

Other tools necessary for this job include jackstands to support the in a raised position, a 3/8 inch drive ratchet wrench, a drain pan capable of holding at least eight pints, newspapers and clean rags. 3

vehicle

4 1

Slowly add

the radiator

until

ant issues from

Leave the

new

coolant (a 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze) to

it's full it.

.

Tighten the bleeder screw when bubble-free cool-

Add coolant

to the reservoir

up

to the

lower mark.

cap off and run the engine in a well-ventilated area until the thermostat opens (coolant will begin flowing through the radiator and the upper radiator hose will become hot) 16 Turn the engine off and let cool. Add more coolant mixture to bring the level back up to the lip on the radiator filler neck 1 Squeeze the upper radiator hose to expel air, then add more coolant mixture necessary. Replace the radiator cap. 1 Stan the engine, allow to reach normal operating temperature and check for leaks. 1

radiator

it

if

The

fluid

should be drained immediately after the vehicle has been is more effective than cold fluid at removing built up sedi-

driven. Hot fluid

ment Caution Fluid temperature can exceed 350-degrees in a hot trans:

.

Wear protective

axle.

gloves.

After the vehicle has been driven to warm up the fluid, raise it and 5 place it on jackstands for access to the transaxle and differential dram

plugs. fylove the necessary equipment u nder the vehicle, being careful not to 6 touch any of the hot exhaust components.

Place the drain pan under the drain plug

7

in

the transaxle pan and re-

move the drain plug with the Allen wrench. Be sure the drain pan is in position, as fluid will come out with some force. Once the fluid is drained,

it

reinstall the drain

8 9

Lower the

plug securely.

vehicle.

With the engine

off,

unscrew (most models) and remove the dipstick,

new fluid to the transaxle through the dipstick opening (see Recommended lubncants and fluids for the recommended fluid type and capacity). Use a funnel to prevent spills. is best to add a little fluid at a time, then add

30

Exhaust system check

It

continually checking the level with the dipstick (Section

7).

Allow the

fluid

time to drain into the pan.

With the engine cold (at least three hours after the vehicle has been check the complete exhaust system from its starting point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe. This should be done on a hoist where un1

1

driven),

L,

restricted

access

is

available.

1

and shift the selector into all positions from P through P and apply the parking brake. With the engine idling, check the fluid level. Add fluid up to the Cool Start the engine

then

level

shift into

on the dipstick

For a

COLOR version of this spark plug

diagnosis page, please see the inside rear cover of this manual

CARBON DEPOSITS

NORMAL

Symptoms: Dry

Symptoms: Brown

sooty deposits Indicate a rich mixture or weak

Causes misfiring, hard starting and hesitation. Recommendation: Check for Ignition.

a clogged

air

level, sticky

cleaner, high float

choke and worn

Ig-

Use a spark plug

nition points.

with a longer core nose for greater anti-fouling protection.

to grayish-

and slight electrode wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditan color

tions.

Recommendation: When new spark plugs are installed, replace with plugs of the same heat range.

ASH DEPOSITS Symptoms:

OIL DEPOSITS

Symptoms: caused by poor

Oily oil

coating

control. Oil

is leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings into the combustion chamber. Causes hard starting, misfiring and

hesition.

Recommendation:

Correct

the mechanical condition with necessary repairs and install new plugs.

sulator,

absence

eration.

Recommendation:

If

exces-

sive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, in-

new valve guide seals to prevent seepage of oil into the

stall

combustion chambers. Also changing gasoline brands.

TOO HOT Symptoms:

Light brown deposits encrusted on the side or center electrodes or both. Derived from oil and/or fuel additives. Excessive amounts may mask the sparielt (see )

2.

Part B).

Remove any accessory brackets from the water pump. Remove the bolts and detach the water pump from the engine (see Note the locations of the various lengths and different types as they're removed to ensure correct installation. Clean the bolt threads and the threaded holes in the engine to remove

of bolts

6

6

oil

Be prepared

fittings.

Unbolt the

is

illustrations).

cooler.

5

7

They are

5

4

8

coolers.

to the radiator

Cap or plug the open fittings. Remove the radiator (see Section

3

oil

Allow the engine to cool completely.

Detach the two 2 cape from the open

and 9.

)

Chapter

Some models

9.5b

the engine

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Drain the cooling system (Chapter 1 If the coolant is relatively new or good condition, save it and reuse it.

ter

Note:

until

procedure. 2

Oil

to illustrations 9.5a.

Warning: Wait

Installation is the reverse of removal.

corrosion and sealant. 7

5). it

from the radiator.

Be sure

the

fittings.

Check the engine oil level and add oil as needed. Start the engine and check for oil leaks. Recheck the oil level.

oil

cooler lines are

8 9

Compare the new pump to the old one to make sure they're identical. Remove all traces of old gasket sealer and 0-ring from the engine. Clean the engine and new water pump mating surfaces with lacquer

thinner or acetone. 1

Apply a thin layer of RTV sealant to the 0-nng mating surface of the then carefully mate a new 0-ring and the pump (see illustra-

new pump, tion)

Chapter 3

Cooling, heating and

8-valve models have a timing belt cover guide attached with pump bolts (arrows) - be sure to reinstall it the same way

9.5b

air

123

conditioning systems

9.10

Position the

new

0-ring

in

the water

pump groove

water

11

Carefully attach the

pump and

0-ring to the engine and thread the

bolts into the holes finger tight. 1

Install

the remaining bolts

(if

they also hold an accessory bracket

in

them to the increments. Don't overtighten them or the

place, be sure to reposition the bracket at this time). Tighten

specified torque

pump may be

in

1

'4-turn

distorted.

13 Reinstall all parts removed for access to the pump. 14 Refill and bleed the cooling system and check the drivebelt tension (Chapter 1 ). Run the engine and check for leaks.

equipped with an electric cooling come on at any time. 2 If an overheating indication occurs, check the coolant level in the system and then make sure the wiring between gauge and the sending unit is secure and all fuses are intact. cator system. Warning: This vehicle

stay clear of the fan blades, which can

3

Test the circuit by briefly grounding the wire to the sending unit while

the ignition

is

on (engine not running

for safety).

If

the

gauge

deflects

full

scale, replace the sending unit.

4

the sending unit must be replaced, simply unscrew

from the enMake sure the engine is cool before removing the defective sending unit. There will be some coolant loss as the unit is removed, so be prepared to catch it. Check the level after the replacement has been installed. If

gine and

10

Is

fan.

install

the replacement.

Use sealant on the

it

threads.

Coolant temperature sending unit - check and replacement

Refer

to illustrations 10.1a.

Warning: Walt

until the

10.1b

engine

Is

11

and 10.1c completely cool before beginning

procedure.

Refer

The coolant temperature indicator system is composed of a light or temperature gauge mounted in the instrument panel and a coolant temperature sending unit mounted on the engine (see Illustrations). Some vehicles have more than one sending unit, but only one is used for the indi1

On 8-valve models, the coolant temperature sending unit (arrow) is mounted adjacent to the thermostat housing

10.1a

Blower unit - removal and

installation

this

1

2 3

to Illustrations 11.4a.

11.4band 11.5

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Remove the glove compartment and right lower dash panel. The blower unit is located in the passenger compartment above the

right front footwell.

10.1b On all fuel-injected and most carbureted models, the coolant

temperature sending unit is mounted the thermostat housing (arrow)

in

10.1c On some carbureted models, the coolant temperature sending unit is mounted in the underside of the intake

manifold (viewed from below)

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

124

Chapter 3

s^-'^

v"^^)

BLOWER

VACUUM HOSE

p*

V^ CONNECTOR

CLIP CLIP 11

.4a

Detach the tube and electrical connector (arrows)

tube and wiring connector from the blower

4

Disconnect the

unit,

then remove the blower unit retaining screws (see illustrations) and

flexible

lower the unit from the vehicle.

5

is being replaced, transfer the fan to the new motor prior to (see illustration). Installation is the reverse of removal. Check for proper operation. If

the motor

11.4b

- exploded view

Typical blower unit

Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1 ). Working in the engine compartment, disconnect the heater hoses where they enter the firewall (see illustration). 4 Remove the instrument panel and the center console (see Chap-

2 3

installation

ter 11).

6

5

Remove

6

Label and detach the

the heater controls (see Section 12). air

ducts, wiring

and controls still attached to the

heater housing (see illustration).

12

Refer 1

7

Heater core - removal and installation

to illustrations 12.3

and

Unbolt the heating unit and remove

it

from the vehicle.

Remove the screws and clips and separate the two halves of the 8 housing. Take out the old heater core and install the new unit.

12.6

9

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

Reassemble the heater unit and check the operation of the air control If any parts bind, correct the problem before installation.

flaps.

RESISTOR

CLIP

11.5

BLOWER MOTOR

Typical blower motor

components - exploded view

Chapter 3

125

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

1

Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

11

Refill

Check

13

Refer to 2

and proper system operation.

Air conditioner

and

1

the cooling system, reconnect the battery and run the engine.

for leaks

and heater control assembly - removal

installation

illustrations 13.3, 13.4, 13.5a,

13.5b

and

13.8

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Remove the radio (see Chapter 1 2).

Pull off the control knobs (see illustration) and face plate. 3 4 Remove the mounting screws located on the front of the control assembly (see illustration). Pull the control out slightly. On some models will be necessary to 5 disconnect the cables at the operating ends before this is possible (see illustrations). Mark each cable at the clamp to ensure installation in the it

same

position.

Detach the cables and wiring from the control assembly and lift the assembly from the dash. 7 To install the unit, reverse the above procedure. 8 To adjust the cables align the marks you made earlier. Fasten the clips and check for stiffness or binding through the full range of operation (see 6

Loosen the hose clamps (arrows) and disconnect the heater hoses from the heater control valve - when removing the air conditioning and heater control assembly, unsnap the heater control valve cable clamp and disengage the cable from the arm (arrow)

12.3

illustration).

9

Run the engine and check for proper functioning of the heater (and air

conditioning,

if

equipped).

VENT DEF SWITCH VENT DEFROST

DIAPHRAGM

HEATER CORE

HEAT DEFROST SOLENOID

HEATER SUB HARNESS

12.6

Typical heater

assembly - exploded view

HEAT DEFROST

DIAPHRAGM HEAT DEF SWITCH

126

Chapter 3

Cooling, heating and

air

conditioning systems CONTROL KNOB FAN SWITCH KNOB

13.3

Remove

the

and faceplate

knobs

(typical)

FACEPLATE

BULB

c^©

TEMPERATURE LEVER

FUNCTION SWITCH

13.4

Exploded view of

the pushbutton control

assembly-

typical

FAN SWITCH

CONTROL ARM

CABLE

CABLE CLAMP

CONTROL CABLE The air-mix cable, (when equipped) is usually mounted on the left side of the heater housing

13.5a

13.5b The heater function cable, (when equipped) is usually mounted on the right side of the heater housing

Chapter 3

Cooling, heating and

b)

127

conditioning systenns

air

Check the

drivebelt tension and.

if

necessary, adjust

it

(see Chap-

ter 1).

Inspectthe system hoses. Look for cracks, bubbles, hardening and

c)

hoses and all fittings for oil bubbles or any evidence of wear, damage or leakage, re-

deterioration. Inspect the

seepage.

If

there

is

place the hose(s). inspect the condenser fins for leaves, bugs and any other foreign

d)

material that

e)

may have embedded itself in the fins. Use a iin comb"

compressed

air to remove debris from the condenser. sure the system has the correct refrigerant charge. you hear water sloshing around in the dash area or have water

or

f\/1ake

f)

If

dripping on the carpet, slip the evaporative housing condensation drain tube off for

and insert a piece of wire

into

both openings to check

blockage.

Its a good idea to operate the system for about ten minutes at least once a month. This is particularly important during the winter months because long term non-use can cause hardening, and subsequent failure, of the seals. Note that using the Defrost function operates the compressor 3 Because of the complexity of the air conditioning system and the special equipment necessary to service it, in-depth troubleshooting and repairs are beyond the scope of this manual. However, simple component

2

Move

13.8

the levers right and

binding through the

full

left

and check

for stiffness

and

range of travel (typical control shown)

replacement procedures are provided in this Chapter. The most common cause of poor cooling is simply a low system refrig4 erant charge. If a noticeable drop in system cooling ability occurs, one of the following quick checks will help you determine whether the refrigerant level

14

5

and heating system - check and maintenance Air conditioning

is

low.

With the

tration).

If

air

conditioning operating inspect the sight glass (see illus-

the refrigerant looks foamy,

it's

low.

Charge the system (see

below).

Air conditioning system Refer

14.6

to Illustrations 14.5.

and

Adding

14.9

Warning: The airconditioning system Is under high pressure. Do not loosen any hose fittings or remove any components until after the system has been discharged by a dealer sen/ice department or an automotive air conditioning shop. Always wear eye protection when adding refrigerant or disconnecting air conditioning system fittings. 1

The following maintenance checks should be performed on a regular air conditioner continues to operate at peak effi-

basis to ensure that the ciency. a)

refrigerant

Buy an automotive "charging kit" at an automotive parts store. A charging kit includes a 1 4-ounce can of refrigerant, a can tap valve and a short section of hose which can be attached between the tap valve and the system low side service valve. Warning: Do not connect to the "highside" of the system (see illustration)' Because one can of refrigerant may not be sufficient to bring the system charge up to its proper level, it's a good idea to buy a few additional cans, fvlake sure that the first can contains red refrigerant dye. the system is leaking, the red dye will leak out with the refrigerant and help you pinpoint the locationof the leak. Warning: Wear eye protection while performing this Step. 6

If

Inspect the condition of the compressor drivebelt. teriorated, replace

it

(see Chapter

If it

is

worn or de-

1).

14.5 The sight glass (arrow) is mounted in the top of the receiver-drier (see Section 15) - it is located in the left front

corner of the engine compartment

14.6

Always connect the charging this is the larger

kit to the low pressure diameter of the two

line

-

128

Chapter 3

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Place a thermometer in the center dash vent to monitor the temperature of the air entering the passenger compartment

15.3

14.9

7

Hook up

the charging

kit in

accordance with the manufacturer's

Disconnect the refrigerant lines - note that the

receiver/drier has a sight glass

the engine and operate the system.

Place a thermometer

in

the center dashboard vent (see illustration)

refrigerant until the indicated temperature

is

around 40

ably bad (see Section 10). Note: You can determine the motor's

to 45-

condition by hooking up a fused jumper wire directly

F.

tery voltage

Heating system If

the

air

thermostat (see Section b)

They should be there is an obstruction in one of the hoses

heater core. Feel both heater hoses at the hot.

If

one of them

is

cold,

the heater core, or the heater control valve

that current If

the switch

is

reaching the blower switch on the control assembly.

is

not getting current, troubleshoot the circuit

the battery and the switch (see wiring diagrams at

a)

b)

Air conditioning receiver/drier -

15

removal and installation

Refer

to illustration 15.3

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble any part of the system (hoses, compressor line fittings, etc.) until after the system has been depressurized by a dealer service department or service station.

Have

the refrigerant discharged by an air conditioning technician. Disconnect the battery (see Chapter 5) and detach the left front fend-

1

2 er

liner.

drier

Disconnect the refngerant lines (see illustration) from the receiver and cap the open fittings to prevent dirt and moisture entry.

4

Loosen the pinch

5

Installation is the reverse of removal.

3

bolt

and

slip

the receiver/drier out of the bracket.

Have the system evacuated, charged and leak tested by the shop that 6 discharged it. If the receiver was replaced, have them add about 20cc (0.7 oz.) refrigeration

oil.

Air conditioning

Refer

If

the resistor

2)

If

the wire

Using a

is

is

not getting current,

check the

wire.

good, replace the switch (see Section 13). blower motor is getting

test light or voltmeter, verify that the If

the blower motor

is

not getting current, replace the resis-

compressor - removal and

installation

coming out of the vents: Turn the ignition on and activate the fan control. Place your ear at the heating/air conditioning register (vent) and listen. IVIost motors are audible. Can you hear the motor running? you can't (and have already verified that the blower switch and the blower motor resistor are good), the blower motor itself is prob-

there

If

to illustration 16.

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble any part of the system (hoses, compressor line fittings, etc until after the system has been depressurized by a dealer service depa n ment or service station. >

Note: The receiver/drier should be replaced whenever the compressor is

tor If

it

leaking heater core).

16

1)

current.

1

if

is

Locate the blower motor resistor below the glove box. Check the resistor to make sure that it is getting current from the blower switch.

e)

the carpet under the heater core

between the end of this

manual). d)

If

firewall.

is shut. Detach the hoses and back flush the heater core with a water hose. If the heater core is clear but circulation is impeded, remove the two hoses and flush them out with a water hose. c) If flushing fails to remove the blockage from the heater core, the core must be replaced. 1 If the blower motor speed does not correspond to the setting selected on the blower switch, the problem could be a bad fuse, circuit, switch, blower motor resistor or motor. a) Before checking an inoperative blower motor or circuit, always check the fuse first. b) Using a test light or voltmeter, check the voltage at the motor. c) Pull the heating/air conditioning control assembly (see Section 1 3) far enough from the dash to verify - with a test light or voltmeter -

in

3

steam

3).

A heater hose is blocked, preventing the flow of coolant through the

or

between bat-

and the blower motor

is damp, or antifreeze vapor or coming through the vents, the heater core is leaking. Remove (see Section 1 2) and install a new unit (most radiator shops will not repair a 1

coming out of the heater vents isn't hot, the problem could stem from any of the following causes: a) The thermostat is stuck open, preventing the engine coolant from warming up enough to carry heat to the heater core. Replace the 1

the top

Sight glass

Warm up

and add degrees

in

Refrigerant lines

in-

structions.

8 9

mounted

isn't

any

air

replaced. 1

2

Have

the A/C system discharged (see Warning atx)ve). Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery and raise the

securely on jackstands. Working from below the left front corner of the engine compartment, disconnect the compressor clutch wiring harness. front of the vehicle, supporting

3

it

129

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Chapter 3

To access the condenser, remove the hood latch on models with rear-hinged hoods - remove the hood on front-hinged models

17.5a

A

17 16.7

Typical air conditioning

compressor mounting

details

Remove

the drivebelt (Chapter 1 ). Disconnect the refrigerant lines from the compressor. Plug the open fittings to prevent entry of din and moisture. 6 Remove the power steering pump (see Chapter 1 0) and/or the condenser cooling fan as necessary for access to the compressor. 7 Unbolt the compressor from the mounting brackets (see illustration) and remove it from the vehicle. If a new compressor is being installed, follow the directions with the 8 compressor regarding the draining of excess oil prior to installation. The clutch may have to be transferred from the original to the new 9

4 5

compressor. 10 Installation

ones erant

is

specifically

the reverse of removal. Replace

made for A/C system use and

all

0-rings with

lubricate

them with

new

refrig-

oil.

1

Have the system evacuated, recharged and

that

discharged

leak tested by the shop

Air conditioning

Refer

to illustrations

1

condenser - removal and

7.5a

installation

and 1 7.5b

Remove

the radiator as described in Section 5. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Remove the grille and hood, on front hinged models for access (see Chapter 1 1 and disconnect the inlet and outlet fittings. Cap the open fittings immediately to keep moisture and dirt out of the system. 5 Remove the hood latch (if necessary) and condenser mounting bolts

2 3 4

)

(see illustrations) and lift the condenser out. 6 Install the condenser, brackets and bolts, making sure the rubber 7

fit on the mounting points properly. Reconnect the refrigerant lines, using new 0-rings where needed.

8

Reinstall the remaining parts

9

Have the system evacuated, charged and leak tested by the shop that

cushions

it.

CONDENSER 17.5b

Condenser mounting bolt

Warning: The air conditioning system Is under high pressure. DO NOT disassemble any part of the system (hoses, compressor, line fittings, etc.) until after the system has been depressurized by a dealer service department or service station. 1 Have the refrigerant discharged by an air conditioning technician.

discharged

it.

B

Hood latch

Typical condenser mounting details

in

the reverse order of removal.

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

Contents Air

cleaner - removal and installation

replacement See Carburetor choke check See Carburetor diagnosis and overhaul - general information Carburetor - removal and installation Exhaust system check See Exhaust system servicing -general information Fuel control system Fuel filter replacement See Fuel injection system - general information Fuel injector check and replacement Fuel pressure regulator - check and replacement Air

filter

7

Fuel pressure

relief (fuel-injected

models)

2

- check Fuel pump - removal and installation

Chapter 1 Chapter 1 10 9 Chapter 1 17 16 Chapter 1

Fuel pump/fuel pressure

3 4

See Chapter

Fuel system check Fuel tank cleaning and repair - general information Fuel tank - removal and installation General information Injector resistor - check and replacement Throttle body - check and replacement Throttle cable - replacement Throttle linkage check

11

14

l

6 5 1

15 12 8

See Chapter

1

13

Specifications

Torque specifications

Ft-ibs

Carburetor mounting nuts

1979 and 1980 1981 on Throttle body mounting nuts

14

15 16

use an in-tank type electric pump. These pumps are virtually on both carbureted and fuel-injected models. Carbureted vehicles manufactured before 1983 are equipped with a conventional three-barrel downdratt carburetor; later carbureted vehicles use a pair of side-draft, variable ventun carburetors. Variable venturi carburetors provide a smooth increase in engine speed and output because of their ability to change their ventun area in proportion to the carburetor er vehicles

General information

1

The filter,

fuel

system consists of the fuel tank, an electric fuel pump, a fuel a fuel injection system and the fuel lines con-

either a carburetor or

necting them.

Two basic types of electric fuel pumps - an externally-mounted type an in-tank type - are used on the vehicles covered by this manual. There are three different types of externally mounted pumps - the first generation pump is used on 1 979 through 1 982 vehicles; the second generation pump is used on 1983 through 1987 vehicles; and a third type is used exclusively on 1 986 and 1 987 fuel-Injected models. All 1 988 and lat-

identical

intake air flow rate.

Programmed FuelSystem (PGM-FI). For more information regarding PGM-FI, refer

Fuel injected vehicles are equipped with Honda's

or

injection to

Section

1 1

The exhaust system consists

of the

exhaust manifold, a header pipe,

a catalytic converter, the exhaust pipe and the muffler

Chapter 4

2

Fuel pressure

relief (fuel-injected

Fuel and exhaust systems

131

models)

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when working on any pan of the fuel system. Don t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs in or near the work area. And don t work in a garage if a natural gas appliance such as a water heater or clothes dryer is present.

Refer

to illustration

2.2

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. You'll need two wrenches for this procedure: One to loosen the 6mm 2 service bolt at the top of the fuel filter and another to hold the special banjo bolt into which the service bolt is installed (see illustration). Place a shop rag over the 6mm service bolt. 3 4 Slowly loosen the 6mm service bolt one complete turn. Always replace the washer between the service bolt and the special 5 banjo bolt whenever the service bolt is loosened to relieve fuel pressure. Replace all washers whenever the bolts are removed to disassemble 1

parts.

To relieve the system fuel pressure on a fuel-injected vehicle, need one wrench to loosen the 6mm service bolt on top of the fuel filter and another wrench to hold the special banjo bolt into which the service bolt is installed

2.2

3

you'll

Fuel pump/fuel pressure - check

Warning: Gasoline Is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when working on any part of the fuel system. Don t smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs in or near the work area. And don work in a garage if a natural gas appliance such as a water heater or clothes dryer Is 't

fuse box/relay panel mounting fasteners, a)

pump

Refer

to illustration 3.

the fuse box

down and

If

there

is

sure that the probe

cut-off relay

b)

3

The fuel pump cut-off relay (see illustration) energizes the fuel pump only when ignition pulses are present at the negative battery terminal 1

(when the ignition switch is turned to the Start position or the engine is running) and cuts off power to the pump when the engine stops. 2 Make sure that the ignition switch is turned off. Open the access door to the left of the steering column, reach through the door and remove the

If

voltage

Touch the

is

is

on the proper black'yellow

positive probe of

(from the ignition switch)

in

a voltmeter

the fuse panel

wire),

to the black'yellow terminal

and touch the negative probe to

ground. Turn the ignition switch on. The voltmeter should indicate battery voltage.

4

Touch the

pump cut-off ignition to

positive

probe

relay connector

of the voltmeter to the blue wire at the fuel

and the negative probe

to ground. Turn the On. The voltmeter should indicate battery voltage.

3.1

Schematic diagram

typical fuel

pump

DISTRIBUTOR

IGNITION COIL

of a

cut-off

relay circuit

FUEL PUMP CUT-OFF RELAY

xu

of

(make

present, proceed to the next step.

IGNITION SWITCH

FUEL PUMP

un-

no voltage, check the fuse and check the continuity

the black-yellow wire from the ignition switch to the relay

Carbureted vehicles (1981 through 1987) Fuel

pull

plug the fuel cut-off relay.

present.

132

Chapter 4

a)

If

no voltage, check the blue wire between the connector negative terminal. Repair or replace as neces-

there's

and the

Fuel and exhaust systems

ignition coil

sary.

Fuel pump cut-off relay The fuel cut-off relay applies voltage 1 tion

pulses are applied to the fuel cut-off

present, proceed to the next step.

20

With the

ignition switch off,

unplug the connector from the fuel cut-off relay. Attach the two black/yellow wires with a jumper wire, then turn on the ignition switch. The fuel pump should come on (fuel pressure should be avail-

21

Remove

the fuel cut-off relay.

b)

5

If

voltage

is

With the ignition

off,

able). a)

If

pressure

fuel

able

now available

is

(but battery voltage

was

not avail-

the previous step, replace the fuel cut-off relay and re-check

in

it.

b)

6

If

If

pressure

fuel

the fuel

available,

isn't

proceed

to the

next step.

Check

24

Turn the

pump leads at the pump and check the voltage between them by touching

turn

on the

the positive probe of a voltmeter to the black/yellow wires from the relay

age

is

relay.

Leave the jumper

25

check the continuity of the black/yellow wire pump and the black wire to ground. present, proceed to the fuel pump test below.

there's no voltage,

b)

Fuel

If

voltage

is

to the fuel

pump

7 l^ake sure that the fuel filter and/or fuel line aren't clogged before you check the fuel pump pressure. 8 Attach a jumper wire between the two black/yellow wires at the fuel

pump cut-off relay connector. Remove the air cleaner, detach the fuel 9

Turn

ignition switch. Battery voltage

If no voltand the fuel cut-

should be available.

check the blue wire from the

26

off

ignition coil

the ignition switch. Attach a jumper wire between the No.

and the No. 2

Turn the

1

terminal.

ignition switch on.

doesn't run, remove the

The fuel pump should run.

If

the fuel

pump

access cover in the floor of the trunk and unplug the connector. Attach the positive probe of a voltmeter to the yellow and black terminal and the negative probe to body ground. Battery voltage should be available. a) If battery voltage is available, check the fuel pump wiring. If it's left

okay, replace the fuel b)

line at

Attach the positive probe of the voltmeter

off relay.

terminal

If

ignition switch off.

available,

present with the ignition switch on.

from the relay

If

No. 4 terminal and the negative probe to the No. 3 terminal. Then

wire attached to the two black/yellow wires. Battery voltage should be

a)

cover.

for continuity

Continuity should exist.

to the

from the

remove the dashboard under

between the No. 3 terminal and body ground. there is no continuity, check the wiring. 23 Attach the positive probe of the voltmeter to the No. 2 terminal and the negative probe to the No. 3 terminal. Turn on the ignition switch. Battery voltage should be available. If there is no voltage, check the black and yellow wire from the ignition switch and the fuel cut-off relay as well as the 22

with the jumper wire attaching the yellow/black wires), detach the fuel

to the black lead

pump whenever igni-

relay.

fuse.

pump cut-off relay checks okay (battery voltage is available

and the negative probe

to the fuel

battery voltage

If

isn't

pump. available, replace the fuel cut-off relay

and

recheck.

the carburetor and at-

tach a pressure gauge.

10

Turn the

on

pressure stabilizes, then turn the key

off.

gauge indicates at least 2 psi, proceed to the next step. gauge indicates less than 2 psi, replace the pump and

re-

ignition

Pressure should be 2 a)

If

the

b)

If

the

to

until

3

psi.

Fuel injected vehicles

check it. 11 Detach the pressure gauge and place a graduated measuring container of more than 23-ounce capacity under the hose. 12 Turn the ignition on, measure the amount of fuel flow for one minute, then turn the ignition off. Fuel flow should be more than 23 ounces in one minute with a battery voltage of at least 1 volts. a) If fuel flow is 23 ounces or more in one minute, the pump is okay. Reconnect the cut-off relay and reattach the fuel hose and air

Remove the fuel tank filler cap and relieve the system fuel pressure. Remove the service bolt on top of the fuel filter (be sure to hold the

27 28

banjo bolt with another wrench) and attach a fuel pressure gauge. Start the engine. Detach the vacuum hose from the pressure regula-

29

tor.

Measure the fuel pressure with the engine at idle. The pressure should to 39 psi. If the fuel pressure isn't as specified, check the fuel pump

be 33

(see below). a)

If

fuel flow is less

If

pump

the

the pressure

for

is

is

okay, check the following:

higher than specified, inspect the fuel return hose

clogging or pinching and look for a problem with the pressure

regulator.

cleaner to the carburetor. b)

If

than 23 ounces, check for a clogged fuel

filter

b)

and/

If

the pressure

lower than specified, inspect

is

2)

Clogged Pinched pump.

Carbureted vehicles (1988)

3)

Pressure regulator

Fuel pump 13 Check for a clogged

4)

Leakage

5)

Pinched, broken or detached regulator

or fuel

line,

then,

if

necessary, replace the fuel

pump and

1)

re-check

it.

fuel filter

and or

fuel line before

checking

fuel

or clogged fuel

in

for:

filter.

the fuel

hose from the

fuel

tank to the fuel

failure. line.

vacuum hose.

fuel

pump pressure. Remove the dashboard under cover and the fuel cut-off relay from the

Fuel pump 30 With the ignition switch

fuse box.

behind the fuse box. 31 Bridge the yellow and black wire and the black and yellow wire with a jumper wire. 32 Relieve the system fuel pressure (see Section 2). Tighten the service

1

15

Detach the

engine compartment and gauge to Turn the ignition on until pressure stabilizes, then turn the key off. The fuel line at the fuel filter in the

attach a pressure 1

it.

pressure should be 2.6 to 3.3 a) b)

If

If

gauge the gauge the

check 1

psi.

indicates less than 2.6 psi, replace the

pump and

re-

pressure gauge and place a graduated container under

the hose.

33 Detach the fuel return hose from the regulator. 34 Turn the ignition switch on, measure the amount of fuel flow for 1 seconds and turn the ignition switch off. There should be at least 7.8 ounces in 1 seconds at 1 2 volts. the fuel flow is less than 7.8 ounces, or there is no fuel flow, check for:

one minute. If

b)

If

25.7 ouncesor more

and the

fuel flow is less

below).

in

one minute, reattach the cut-off

fuel hose.

than 25.7 ounces, check the fuel cut-off relay (see

pump

a)

Fuel

b)

Clogged Clogged

c)

fuel flow is

relay

if

If

1 Turn the ignition on for one minute, then turn the ignition off and measure the amount of fuel flow. Fuel flow should be more than 25.7 ounces in

a)

unplug the connector from the main relay

bolt.

indicates at least 2.7 psi, proceed to the next step.

it.

Remove the

off,

failure.

fuel

filter.

fuel line.

Pressure regulator failure. you suspect a problem with the fuel pump, verify that the pump actually runs (it should make a whirnng sound when it's on). 36 If the pump is silent, jack up the vehicle and place on jackstands. d)

35

If

it

Chapter 4

133

Fuel and exhaust systems 37

Remove

the fuel

pump cover and

that the ignition switch

is

turned

off

unplug the connector (make sure

before you unplug the pump).

38 Touch the positive probe of a voltmeter to the yellow and black wire and the negative probe to the black wire and verify that battery voltage is available at the fuel

pump

wire connectors

when

the ignition switch

is

turned on. a)

If

battery voltage

b)

If

battery voltage

is

pump. check the main relay and wire har-

available, replace the fuel

isn't

available,

ness.

4

Fuel

pump

- removal and installation

Warning: Gasoline Is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when working on any part of tfie fuel system. Don t smoke or allow open flames or bare ligtit bulbs in or near the work area. And don work in a garage where a natural gas appliance such as a water heater or clothes dryer 't

is

The externally mounted electric fuel pumps on 1983 and later carbureted vehicles and pre-1988 fuel-injected vehicles are protected by plastic covers - like this typical example - which must be removed

Carbureted vehicles (1979 through 1987) and

4.4a

fuel-injected vehicles (1986 and 1987) to illustrations 4.4a. 4.4b. 4.5 and 4. 10

Refer 1

2

4.4b

Exploded view

of a typical fuel 1

2

Cover Mount

present.

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. Although it's not absolutely necessary, removal of the

pump assembly on

a fuel-injected vehicle

3

Pump

4

Silencer

left

rear wheel

134

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

FUEL HOSE

SILENCER

Typical fuel

pump assembly on

a carbureted vehicle - to

of a typical externally mounted fuel-Injection silencer - be sure to replace the crush washer between

Exploded view

4.10 4.5

pump and

prevent fuel from squirting in your face, be sure to pinch off both fuel lines (arrows) with clamps or hemostats before you detach the pump and lines

facilitates fuel

pump replacement. you wish to remove the wheel, If

loosen

the lug nuts at this time.

3

Jack up the rear

1

Remove

the

and place left

it

securely on jackstands.

rear wheel.

pump

you have a fuel-injected vehicle, detach the fuel lines at the connecseparate the pump from its mounting clamp and detach the silencer

If

tors,

of the vehicle

Block the front wheels.

the fuel hose and the

and

fuel

11

Installation is the reverse of removal.

hose (see

illustration).

On

older carbureted vehicles,

a fuel-injected vehicle, remove the cover screws and the cover (see illus-

a good idea to replace the fuel filter next to the pump at this time. On fuel-injected vehicles, be sure to replace the crush washer between the

trations).

fuel

4

5

If

you have a 1 983 or

later

carbureted vehicle with the newer pump, or

Attach fuel line clamps or hemostats to the fuel

it's

hose banjo

fitting

and the pump.

pump lines (see Illus-

tration).

Detach the electhc leads from the pump. 7 Remove the fuel pump mounting bolts and lower the pump with its cover (or mount, on fuel-injected vehicles) still attached. If you have a pre-1 983 carbureted vehicle with the older type pump, 8 pry up the tabs on the fuel pump lower cover and remove the upper cover. If you have a carbureted vehicle, loosen the hose clamps and detach 9 the fuel lines. To avoid damaging the clamped hoses, twist and pull on them at the same time. Remove the fuel pump from its lower cover

Carbureted vehicles (1988) and fuel-injected

6

vehicles (1988 on) Refer to

illustrations 4.

13

and 4. 14

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. 1 Remove the left access cover from the floor of the trunk (see illustration), located in front of the spare tire well. 1 Unplug the electrical connector and detach the fuel lines (see illus1

tration)

To remove the in-tank fuel pump, unplug the electrical connector (A), detach the fuel lines (B), remove the pump

4.14

4.13

Pry up this access cover from the left corner of the floor of the trunk to get at the in-tank electric fuel pump used on 1988 and later vehicles

mounting bolts (not visible) and lift the pump assembly straight up - if the pump mounting flange catches on the edge of the access cover, you may have to loosen the fuel tank straps and lower the tank a

little

1

16

Remove the fuel pump mounting bolts. Remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank.

move, 17

you'll

have

to

4 If

the

pump

is

hard to

loosen the fuel tank straps and lower the tank

re-

slightly.

Clearly label

Remove

6

Note: The following procedure is much easier to perform empty. The tank has a drain plug for this purpose.

if

the fuel tank

is

Warning: Gasoline Is extremely flammable, so extra precautions must be taken when working on any part of the fuel system. Do not smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area. Also, do not work in a garage if a natural gas-type appliance with a pilot light is present. While performing any work on the fuel tank it is advisable to wear safety glasses and to have a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher on hand. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water 2

If

the fuel tank

the vehicle

Section

is

filler

cap

to relieve fuel tank pressure.

2).

3

Detach the cable from the negative terminal

4

Remove

the drain plug

and drain the

the air

is

air intake

removed. the reverse of removal.

is

Side-draft carburetors 7 Free the four clips around the outside edge of the air cleaner cover. 8 Detach the vacuum hose from the air control diaphragm. 9 Detach the fresh air duct from the air cleaner snorkel. Unscrew the center wing bolt. 1 1 Detach the hot air tube from the underside of the snorkel. 1 Remove the air cleaner cover and the filter element. 1 Unscrew the six nuts at the carburetor throats. 14 Clearly label the electrical leads attached to the base, then detach them. Clearly label

all

hoses and

their respective pipes

on the

air

cleaner,

then detach them.

system pressure (see

fuel-injected, relieve the fuel

vacuum and breather hoses from

the fasteners which secure the

Installation

1

Remove

all

air cleaner housing to the screen to the mouth of the carburetor. Remove the screen and the air cleaner housing. Stuff a rag down the mouth of the carburetor to prevent debris from entenng it while the air

5

cleaner

Fuel tank - removal and installation

1

and detach

cleaner housing. carburetor and attach the

Installation is the reverse of removal.

5

135

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

1

Remove

17

Installation is the reverse of removal.

the air cleaner base.

of the battery.

fuel into

an approved gasoline

Fuel injected vehicles

container.

5

Remove the round access cover

in

the floor of the trunk and discon-

your vehicle is a 1 988 or later model, it has in-tank type fuel pump which you can reach through the access cover nect the fuel

gauge sending

unit.

1

Although the fresh

siderably

air

intake system for fuel-injected vehicles

more complex than those used on carbureted

is

con-

vehicles, the air

If

on the left. Unplug the fuel pump electrical connector. Raise the vehicle and place securely on jackstands. 6 7 Disconnect the fuel lines, the vapor return line and the fuel filler neck. Note: The fuel feed and return lines and the vapor return line are three different diameters, so reattachment is simplified. If you have any doubts, however clearly label the three lines and the fittings. Be sure to plug the hoses to prevent leakage and contamination of the fuel system. Support the fuel tank with a floor jack or jackstands. Position a piece 8 of wood between the jack head and the fuel tank to protect the tank. Disconnect both fuel tank retaining straps and pivot them down until 9

cleaner

itself is

nevertheless a relatively simple affair

it

they are hanging out

way. 1 Lower the tank enough to disconnect the electrical wires and ground strap from the fuel pump/fuel gauge sending unit, if you have not already

done

so.

1

Remove

1

Installation is the

6

of the

reverse of removal.

Fuel tank cleaning and repair - general information

All

repairs to the fuel tank or filler

dunng repair of the tank. should not be placed in 2 If the fuel tank is removed from the vehicle, an area where sparks or open flames could ignite the fumes coming out of the tank. Be especially careful mside garages where a natural gas-type appliance is located, because the pilot light could cause an explosion.

can remain and

ignite

it

Carburetor-equipped vehicles 1

Air cleaner

- removal and

Remove

the air cleaner assembly (see Section

3

Push back the cable Back off the locknut.

4

Pull

2

7).

boot.

back the cable housing and

slide the cable out of the throttle

bracket.

5 6

Remove Remove Remove

the cable end from the throttle

link.

the cable end from the pedal rod arm.

Fuel-injected vehicles 11 Remove the air cleaner assembly 12

installation

(see Section

Loosen the locknut and remove the

throttle

7).

cable from the cable

bracket. 1

Remove

the cable from the throttle linkage.

The remainder of the removal and installation procedure is similar to the procedure described above for carbureted vehicles. 1 After you have installed the new cable, be sure to adjust 1 Hold the cable sheath, remove all slack from the cable and turn the adjusting nut until it's 3mm away from the cable bracket. Tighten the locknut. The cable deflection should now be 0.39 to 0.47-inch. If it isn't, proceed to the next step. 1

it.

17 7

Throttle cable - replacement

7 the cable from the bracket on the valve cover. Turn the grommet 90', then pull the cable through the firewall from the 8 engine side. Detach the cable from the accelerator pedal. 9 1 Installation is the reverse of removal.

the tank from the vehicle.

neck should be earned out by a professional who has experience in this critical and potentially dangerous work. Even after cleaning and flushing of the fuel system, explosive fumes 1

8

Verify that the throttle cable operates

Repair as necessary. Verify that there is cable f reeplay at the

smoothly without binding or

sticking. 1

throttle linkage.

Cable deflec-

should be 0.39 to 0.47-inch. If deflection isn't within the specified range, loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting nut until the deflection is

tion

Carbureted vehicles Conventional three-barrel downdraft carburetor Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. 2 Remove the wing nut from the air cleaner housing cover, remove the cover and remove the filter element. 3 Detach the fresh air intake duct. 1

as specified. With the cable properly adjusted, verify that the throttle valve opens 1 fully when you push the accelerator pedal to the floor. And make sure that the throttle valve returns to the idle position when you release the accelerator

136

9

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

evenly and securely. Perform a cylinder compression test (see Chapter 2). d) Clean or replace the spark plugs as necessary (see Chapter e) Check the spark plug wires (see Chapter 1 ). f) Inspect the ignition primary coil wires.

Carburetor - removal and installation

c)

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable so extra precautions must be taken when working on any part of the fuel system. DO NOT smoke orallow open flames or bare light bulbs In or near the work area. Also, don't work In a garage if a natural gas appliance such as a water heater or clothes dryer

g)

h)

present.

Is

i)

Removal 1

2

j)

Remove the fuel filler cap to relieve fuel tank pressure. Remove the air cleaner from the carburetor. Be sure to label all vacu-

k) I)

um hoses

attached to the

air

cleaner housing.

1 ).

Check the

ignition timing (follow the instructions printed on the Emissions Control Information label). Check the fuel pump pressure/volume (see Chapter 4). Check the air control diaphragm in the air cleaner for proper operation (see Chapter 1). Check/replace the air filter element (see Chapter 1 ). Check the PCV system (see Chapter 6). Check/replace the fuel filter (see Chapter 1 ) and check the strainer

in the tank as could be restricted. m) Check for a plugged exhaust system. n) Check EGR valve operation (see Chapter 6). o) Check the choke-it should be completely open it

3

Disconnect the

throttle

cable from the throttle lever.

equipped with an automatic transmlssion.disconnect the TV cable from the throttle lever (see Chapter 7B). Clearly label all vacuum hoses and fittings, then disconnect the 5 4

If

the vehicle

is

operating temperature (see Chapter

hoses.

6 7

Disconnect the

fuel line(s)

p)

from the carburetor(s).

Label the wires and terminals, then unplug

all

wire harness connecq)

tors.

8

Remove

insulator

the mounting nuts (conventional carburetor) or loosen the

clamps

take manifold.

(side draft carbs)

and detach the carburetor from the

into the intake

Check for fuel leaks and kinked or dented fuel lines (see Chapters 1 and 4). Check accelerator pump operation with the engine off (remove the air cleaner cover and operate the throttle as you look into the carburetor throat - you should see a stream of gasoline enter the carburetor).

r)

shop rag

manifold openings. s)

Check Check

for incorrect fuel or

lant

from the Intake manifold (and the carburetor,

if

it's

material

and sea-

being reinstalled),

then remove the shop rag from the manifold openings. Clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone.

new gasket on

1

Place a

1

Position the carburetor on the gasket

1

and

the air cleaner, backfires are possible. This situation

the intake manifold.

carburetor

and install the mounting fasten-

is

lean the fuel/air mixture

enough to produce an engine

carburetor during inspection

13 14 15

the carburetors are the side draft type,

make

lift

to

air

occur if the

cleaner can

backfire.

Warning:

especially your face, directly over the

and servicing procedures. Wear eye protec-

tion!

sure the

clamps are snug).

The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. Check and, necessary, adjust the idle speed (see Chapter if

If

is likely

malfunctioning, but just the removal of the

Do not position any part of your body,

(if

and camshaft lobe

service department or repair shop check the elecengine and carburetor controls. 4 Diagnosing carburetor problems may require that the engine be started and run with the air cleaner off. While running the engine without

12 To prevent carburetor distortion or damage, tighten the fasteners on a conventional carburetor to the specified torque in a criss-cross pattern, 1/4-turn at a time

applicable)

tronic

ers.

insulator

(if

2).

Have a dealer

t)

Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of gasket

bad gasoline.

the valve clearances

(see Chapters

Installation 9

normal engine

in-

Remove the carburetor mounting gasket (conventional car-

buretor). Stuff a

at

1 ).

equipped with an automatic transmission, the TV cable adjustment procedure.

the vehicle

Chapter 78

for

is

Overhaul 1).

refer to

5

Once

it's

determined that the carburetor needs an overhaul, several If you're going to attempt to overhaul the carburetor

options are available.

first obtain a good quality carburetor rebuild kit (which will include necessary gaskets, internal parts, instructions and a parts list). You'll also need some special solvent and a means of blowing out the internal

yourself, all

10

Carburetor diagnosis and overhaul - general information

passages 6

An

of the carburetor with

alternative

is

available from dealers

Warning Gasoline is extremely flammable, so extra precautions must be taken when working on any part of the fuel system. DO NOT smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs in or near the work area. Also, don't work in a garage if a natural gas appliance such as a water heater or :

clothes dryer

is

present.

change carburetor

adjustments are listed on the Vehicle Emissions Control Information (VECI) label found in the engine compartment. Carburetor problems usually show up as flooding, hard starting, stall2

A

ing,

severe backfiring and poor acceleration.

fuel

and/or covered with wet looking deposits definitely needs attention.

3

Some performance complaints directed at the carburetor are actually

carburetor that's leaking

a result of loose, out-of-adjustment or malfunctioning engine or electrical

components. Others develop when vacuum hoses leak, are disconnected or are incorrectly routed. The proper approach to analyzing carburetor problems should include the following items: a) Inspect all vacuum hoses and actuators for leaks and correct installation (see Chapters 1 and 6). b) Tighten the intake manifold and carburetor mounting nuts/bolts

number

is

A

tag

is

usually attached to

stamped on the

help determine the exact type of carburetor you have.

float

When

bowl.

It

will

obtaining a

rebuilt carburetor or a rebuild kit, make sure the kit or carburetor matches your application exactly. Seemingly insignificant differences can make a in engine performance. you choose to overhaul your own carburetor, allow enough time to disassemble it carefully, soak the necessary parts in the cleaning solvent (usually for at least one-half day or according to the instructions listed on the carburetor cleaner) and reassemble it. which will usually take much longer than disassembly. When disassembling the carburetor, match each part with the illustration in the carburetor kit and lay the parts out in order on a clean work surface. Overhauls by inexperienced mechanics can result in an engine which runs poorly or not at all. To avoid this, use care and patience when disassembling the carburetor so you can reassemble it correctly. 8 Because carburetor designs are constantly modified by the manufacturer in order to meet increasingly more stnngent emissions regulations, it isn't feasible to include a step-by-step overhaul of each type. You'll receive a detailed, well illustrated set of instructions with any carburetor overhaul kit: they will apply in a more specific manner to the carburetor on your ve-

7

A thorough road test and check of carburetor adjustments should be 1 done before any major carburetor service work. Specifications for some

identical to the original.

the top of the carburetor or a

large difference

Diagnosis

is

air.

a new or

rebuilt carburetor. They are readily and auto parts stores. Make absolutely sure the ex-

to obtain

If

hicle.

137

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

ATVOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR

IDLE MIXTURE

FAS.T IDLE

,

CONTROL

ADJUSTER SENSOR

MANIFOLD AIR PRESSURE SENSOR

SOLENOID VALVE THROTTLE ANGLE

COLD ADVANCE SOLENOID VALVE

SENSOR INTAKE AIR

TEMPERATUR SENSOR EGR CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE IDLE

CONTROL

SOLENOID VALVE

A C IDLE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE

CRANK ANGLE SENSOR

COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR

VALVE

OXYGEN SENSOR 11

.1

^RESiS'^OR

Typical fuel injection system

and

Individual

boost valve

Fuel injection system - general information

11

SENSOR

LIFT

components

when

When the

idle

the

air

speed

conditioning system

is

turned on.

low because of electrical or other loads on the

is

engine, the idle control solenoid valve opens to shunt extra

Refer

take manifold. This additional to illustration 11.1

The Programmed Fuel sub-systems:

air intake,

(PGM-FI) system consists electronic control and fuel delivery (see

of three

Injection

Illustra-

tion)

Air intake The

air

intake system consists of the air cleaner, the air intake pipe,

the throttle body, the idle control system, the fast idle

A

resonator

in

the

air

mechanism and

the

intake tube provides additional

si-

drawn into the system. The throttle body is a one-barrel, side-draft design. The lower portion of the throttle body is heated by engine coolant to prevent icing in cold weather. The idle adjusting screw, which increases or decreases bypass air, and the canister purge port are located on top of the throttle body. A throttle sensor attached to the throttle shaft senses changes in throttle lencing as air

opening.

is

A dashpot slows the movement of the throttle valve as

When the throttle valve is in the closed position,

it

it

The dashpot slows the closing

gear shifting unburned hydrocarbons. When

the throttle valve tnes to close suddenly,

it

of the throttle valve during

can't, until the

vacuum

in

the

dashpot diaphragm overcomes the diaphragm spring. This vacuum from the throttle tXKiy increases gradually through an orfice in the dashpot check valve. Then the diaphragm slowly pulls the diaphragm rod against the force of the spring and the throttle valve gradually closes.

When the engine is idling, the air-fuel ratio is controlled by the idle consystem, which consists of the electronic control unit and the idle conidle boost solenoid valves. The first trol, fast idle. AT idle control and trol

AC

The fast idle control solenoid valve also opens when the engine is cold idling by passing additional air to the intake manifold and raise the idle speed. The fast idle valve is energized by the coolant temperature and atmospheric pressure sensors. The valve is open tjelow 5'F at sea level and below 104-degrees F at high altitude. When the automatic transmission is in gear, the idle speed tends to go down. The AT idle control solenoid valve compensates for this by sending more air to the intake in order to maintain the correct idle speed. the air conditioning system is on, the AC idle boost solenoid valve opens to increase air flow and maintain the normal idle speed.

to

prevent erratic

If

Idle adjuster

idle txjost

(bypass

circuit)

body contains an adjustable bypass circuit. This circuit is designed to control the amount of air bypassing into the intake manifold without changing the position of the throttle valve. Usually, it's not necessary to adjust idle speed with the idle adjusting screw because idle speed is

throttle

adjusted automatically by the

system

is in

operation, idle

idle control

system.

When the idle control

speed doesn't change when you

turn the idle

adjusting screw.

Fast idle mechanism To prevent

erratic running

when

the engine

is

warming

up. its

some-

bypassed

Into the

speed. The air bypass valve is controlled by a thermowax plunger. While the engine - and the thermowax - are cold,

solenoid valve opens the

AC Idle

additional air

three of these solenoid valves alter the

The A'C

its

normal speed. The valve also reduces fast idle speed during warm-up. once the coolant temperature has surpassed 1 04F. Finally, to prevent rough running after the engine first fires, the valve is opened during cranking and immediately after starting to provide additional air into the intake

The

or deceleration to prevent the formation of

intake manifold.

in-

air into

closes.

touches the throttle stop

screw.

air

the

allows the idle speed to increase to

manifold.

system

intake manifold.

air

amount

of air

times necessary to raise the

is

bypassed

idle

into the intake

manifold so that the engine idles

138

at

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

a higher speed than normal.

When the engine reaches its normal oper-

ating temperature, the valve begins to close, reducing the

bypassing

of air

into the manifold.

Idle control

system (1988 and

1988, the

In

amount

Control Valve

later vehicles)

valves were replaced by the Electronic Air

idle control

(EACV) and the Fast

Idle Valve. Like the

solenoid valves In

change the amount response to changes in an elec-

the idle control system described above, these valves of air

bypassed

into the intake

tncal signal from the

manifold

in

ECU.

After the engine starts, the EACV opens. The amount of air is increased to raise the idle speed about 150 to 250 rpm. When the coolant temperature is low, the EACV is opened to obtain the proper fast idle speed. The amount of bypassed air is controlled in relation to the coolant temperature. When the coolant temperature is below 122'F, it also activates the fast idle valve to prevent the idle speed from dropping.

the pressure

(computer) and nine sensors:

rotors are coupled to the distributor shaft, so they turn together as a unit as the cam rotates. The CYL sensor detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as the base for sequential injection; the TDC sensor determines the injection timing for each cylinder. The TDC sensor also monitors engine

speed to help determine the basic discharge duration

for different operat-

ing conditions.

determined by the signal sent from the ECU. The resistance of the thermistor decreases with

sensor in

The

to

is

manifold,

is

air

12

also a thermistor.

relay, located

Throttle

on the

In

operation,

it's

is

located

in

similar to the

the intake

resistance varies, altering the output voltage to the control

flow of current

in

the

coil

the injector wire harness.

side of the cowl, contains the relays

power supply and the

fuel

pump power sup-

body - check and replacement

to Illustration 12.

On

vacuum hose that goes to the body and attach a vacuum gauge in its

top of the throttle body, locate the

canister.

Detach

it

from the

throttle

place (see illustration).

2

Start the engine

and warm

(wait until the cooling fan

indicates no

3

it

up

to its

normal operating temperature

comes on a second time).

Verify that the

gauge

vacuum.

Open the throttle slightly from

idle

and verify

that the

gauge indicates

vacuum. 4

Stop the engine and

verify that the throttle

cable operates smoothly

without binding or sticking.

5

If

a) b)

c)

TW sensor

but has a lower thermal capacity for quicker response time. The basic discharge duration read out from memory is again compensated for different operating conditions by the signals sent from this sensor through the ECU. The throttle angle sensor is a variable resistor: The sensor is mounted on the end of the throttle valve shaft, so as the throttle valve is rotated, the

left

in

Check Refer

you note any deviation from the above, inspect the throttle body: Check the throttle valve shaft for excessive wear or play. Feel whether the throttle valve sticks or binds as you rotate it to the fully

temperature (TA) sensor, which

The

ply.

coolant temperature. intake

coil.

therefore restricted by a resistor installed

The main

1

The manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor converts manifold air pressure readings into electrical voltage signals and sends them to the ECU. This data, along with the data from the TDC and CYL sensors, enables the ECU to determine the basic discharge duration from memory. The atmospheric pressure (PA) sensor converts atmospheric pressures into voltage signals and sends them to the ECU. These signals enable the ECU to modify the basic discharge duration to compensate for changes in the atmospheric pressure. The coolant temperature (TW) sensor uses a temperature dependent diode (thermistor) to measure differences in the coolant temperature. The

between the fuel presdiaphragm is pushed

this figure, the

it

for the electronic control unit

The crank angle (TDC/CYL) sensors, which are an integral part of the distributor assembly, consist of two rotors (TDC and CYL) and a pickup for each rotor. The distributor is driven off the end of the camshaft, and the

a rise

the difference

by the length of time that the valve is open, i.e. the length of time during which current is supplied to the solenoid coils. Because determines opening and closing intervals- which in turn determines the air-fuel mixture ratio -injector timing must be quite accurate To attain the best possible injector response, the current nse time, when voltage is being applied to each injector coil, must be as short as possible. The number of windings in the coil has therefore been reduced to lower the inductance in the coil. However, this creates low coil resistance, which

electronic control system consists of an eight-bit microprocessor

basic discharge duration read out

When

upward and excess fuel is fed back to the fuel tank through the return line. The four injectors are solenoid-actuated, constant stroke, pintle types consisting of a solenoid, plunger, needle valve and housing. When current is applied to the solenoid coil, the needle valve raises, pressunzed fuel fills the injector housing and squirts out the nozzle. The needle valve lift and the fuel pressure are constant, so the injection quantity is determined

is

this

the manifold.

could compromise the durability of the

Electronic control system The

in

sure and manifold pressure exceeds

d)

closed position.

is zero clearance between the throttle stop screw and the throttle lever when the throttle is fully closed. Look at the canister port m the wall of the throttle t)ody bore should be on the upstream side of the throttle valve when the valve

Verify that there

it

is

completely closed.

unit.

The oxygen sensor monitors the oxygen content in the exhaust gas and sends a variable voltage signal to the ECU, which alters the duration during which fuel

is

injected.

When the ignition key is turned to Start,

the starter switch sends a sig-

ECU, which increases the amount of fuel injected, in accordance engine temperature The amount of fuel injected is gradually re-

nal to the

with the

duced once the engine

is

started.

Fuel system The fuel system consists of the fuel pump, the pressure regulator, four and the main relay. The fuel pump, which is located immediately forward of the left rear wheel, is an in-line, direct drive type. Fuel is drawn through a filter into the pump, flows past the armature through the one-way valve and is delivered to the injectors. A relief valve prevents excessive pressure build-up by opening in the event of a blockage in the discharge side and allowing fuel injectors, the resistor

to flow

from the high

to the

low pressure side.

The pressure regulator maintains a constant fuel pressure to the injectors. The spring chamber of the pressure regulator is connected to the intake manifold to constantly maintain the fuel pressure at 36 psi higher than

12.1

goes

On

top of the throttle body, detach the vacuum hose that and attach a vacuum gauge in its place

to the evaporative canister

Chapter 4 THROTTLE BODY

Fuel and exhaust systems

139

GASKET

THROTTLE VALVE STOP SCREW

DASHPOT

(Do not adjust)

(3^/fg.

THROTTLE

ARM

NUT An exploded view

12.13

6

If

the problem

of a typical fuel injection throttle

simply a build-up of sludge,

is

try

body

removing it with carbu-

retor cleaner or a similarly suitable solvent.

7

If

cleaning

fails to

remedy the problem, replace the

throttle body. 1

2.1

5

A

typical

dashpot check valve assembly

Replacement Refer

to illustration 12.

13

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. Remove the air duct that connects the air cleaner assembly

8 9

to the

10

Test the fuel pressure (see Section

2

throttle body.

Label, then detach,

all

vacuum hoses from

Detach the throttle cable and, if equipped. TV cable (see Chapter 7B). Detach the coolant hoses from the throttle body. 1 Remove the four throttle body mounting nuts and remove the throttle body and gasket (see illustration). 14 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to adjust the throttle cable and, if equipped, the TV cable (see Chapter 7B). 1

12

Refer

to illustration 12.

The dashpot (see

1

If

the pressure

is

not as speci-

replace the regulator.

Replacement Refer

Throttle control (dashpot)

3).

check the fuel pump first (see Section 3). then check the regulator. Detach the vacuum hose from the regulator (see illustration) and 3 verify that the fuel pressure nses. If the fuel pressure doesn t nse. pinch the hose instead and note whether it rises. If the pressure still doesn't rise, fied,

the throttle body.

system

4

15

5

to Illustration 13.6

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. Relieve the system fuel pressure (see Section 2).

illustration) slows the closing of the throttle valve

during gear shifting or deceleration.

Slowly open the throttle arm

1 it

1

until

the dash pot rod is raised up as far as

go.

will

Release the

throttle

arm and measure the time

until

the throttle

arm

contacts the stop screw. This should take under two seconds. a)

If

the time

is

over two seconds, replace the dash pot check valve

and re-check b)

If

it.

the rod doesn't operate, check for binding

clogged check valve or vacuum

dash

13

line.

If

in

the linkage or a

they're okay, replace the

pot.

Fuel pressure regulator - check and replacement

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs in or near the work area. And don t work in a garage if a natural gas appliance such as a water heater or clothes dryer is 't

present.

Check Refer 1

to illustration

13.3 13.3

Inspect the fuel system for pinched or broken

vacuum hoses.

To check the fuel pressure regulator, detach the vacuum hose from it and verify that the fuel pressure rises

140

Fuel and exhaust systems

Chapter 4

Check I

Engine running Refer 1

Start the

2

With the engine

tion) a)

'

and 14.3 engine and warm up

to illustrations 14.2

idling,

it to its normal operating temperature. unplug the injectors one at a time (see illustra-

and note the change in idle speed. If the idle speed drop is almost the same for each cylinder, the injectors are operating correctly.

b)

If

unplugging a particular injector fails to change the idle speed, pro-

ceed 3

to the next step.

Check the injector electrical connector with a voltmeter (see illustra-

tion). a)

If

the voltage fluctuates between zero and two volts, replace the

in-

Step 5). no voltage:

jector (see b)

there

If

O-RING

the wiring between the resistor and the injector and between the injector and the ECU for a short circuit, break in the wire or bad connection.

Check

2) c)

If

is

Check

1

there

is

the injection resistor (see Section

1

5).

voltage at the electrical connector but the injector

is

mal-

sound of each injector with a the suspect injector isn't making the same clicking

functioning, listen to the clicking

stethoscope.

If

sound as the other 3.6

1

To replace the regulator, detach the vacuum tube and return hose and remove the two 6mm retaining bolts

fuel

injectors, replace

(see step

it

5),

then recheck

it.

Engine not running Unplug the injector electrical connector and measure the resistance between the terminals of the injector. should be between 1.5 and 2.5 ohms. 4

It

Detach the vacuum tube and

6

fuel return

hose from the regulator (see

a)

illustration).

Remove the two 6mm

7

regulator retaining bolts

b)

lator.

the resistance

If

the resistance

1

Be sure to use a new 0-ring. Apinto its proper position. Be ply clean engine oil to the 0-ring and install sure that you don't damage the 0-ring when you install the regulator.

8

If

is

not as specified, replace the injector (see Step

is

within specification:

5).

and remove the regu-

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Check the injector harness between the resistor and injector and between the resistor and the ECU for a short circuit, a break

it

in

2)

the wire or a bad connection.

Check the

resistor itself (see Section

1

5).

Replacement 14

Fuel injector - check and replacement

Refer 5

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs in or near the work area. And don work in a garage where a natural gas appliance such as a water heater or clothes dryer 't

't

is

present.

14.2 Before you can unplug the connector to an injector, you will need to use a scribe (shown) or a small

screwdriver to pry the spring clip loose

6

to illustrations 14.10. 14.11, 14. 12, 14.

13

and 14.17

Detach the cable from the battery negative terminal". Relieve the system fuel pressure (see Section 2).

7

Remove

8 9

Unplug the injector connectors. Detach the vacuum hose and fuel return hose from the

the

air

cleaner case. fuel

pressure

regulator.

14.3

If

the engine's running, you can

check the injector

electrical

with a voltmeter

connector

14.10

To replace an injector - or simply

remove the fuel rail assembly - detach the two ground cables (arrows) from the Intake manifold

Chapter 4

An exploded view

14.11

of the fuel

rail

141

Fuel and exhaust systems

assembly and the

fuel line fittings

14.12

Remove fuel rail

Detach the two ground cables from the intake manifold (see illustra-

1

tion). 11

Detach the

1

Remove the fuel rail mounting nuts (see illustration) and remove the

fuel

rail

and

fuel lines

injectors from the intake manifold.

and the fuel rail). Repeat this about two or three times, then check the fuel lines, rail and injectors for fuel leakage.

15

Note the location of the injector 0-ring and cushion ring, then remove and discard them (see illustration). Note: Whether you're replacing an injector or a leaking O-ring. it's a good idea to remove all the injectors from the fuel rail and replace all the O-rings and cushion rings. 14 Coat the new cushion ring(s) with fresh engine oil and slide it/them

Injector resistor

- check and replacement

rail.

onto the injector(s).

Coat the new O-ring(s) with fresh engine oil and place it/them on the then insert each injector into its corresponding bore in the fuel

1

pull the

(see illustration).

Remove the injector from the fuel

1

rail mounting nuts (arrows), then assembly and injectors off the manifold

the fuel

1

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal.

2

Locate the injector resistor on the

left

fender well

(it

looks

like

a small

rectangular aluminum box with rounded corners).

Unplug the resistor

3

electrical connector.

Check the resistance between each of the resistor terminals and the power supply connector terminal. should be about 5 to 7 ohms.

4

It

5

If

the indicated resistance

isn't

within specification, replace the resis-

injector(s),

tor. rail.

Coat the new seal

1

the injector bore(s)

17

Install

in

ring(s) with fresh

engine

oil

and press

it/them into

the intake manifold.

the injector

and

fuel

rail

assembly onto the intake manifold.

16

Fuel control system

Make sure that the centerline of the electrical connector on each injector is aligned with

its

corresponding mark on the intake manifold (see illustra-

tion). Tighten the fuel

rail

1

The remainder

19

After the injector fuel

of installation is the rail

assembly

conditions such as warm-up, acceleration or deceleration.

reverse of removal. installation is

Numerous devices and systems are employed on the vehicles covalter basic fuel flow parameters dunng non-cruising

1

ered by this manual to

mounting nuts securely. complete, turn the

On. but don't operate the starter (this activates the fuel pump for about two seconds, which builds up fuel pressure in the fuel lines ignition switch to

Because of the complexity of the checking and diagnostic procedures and the special equipment necessary to carry out these procedures, diagnosis of the fuel control system Is best left to your dealer. 2

SEAL RING

MARKS

FUEL PIPE

INTAKE MANIFOLD

14.13

assembly - note the and ensure proper reassembly

An exploded view

of the injector

relationship of the injector to the seal ring, cushion ring

O-ring to

14.17 Be sure that the centerline of each injector connector aligned with the mark on the intake manifold when you install

the injector

is

142

Chapter 4

Fuel and exhaust systems

FUEL TANK HEAT SHIELD

CATALYTIC CONVERTER

HEAT SHIELD BOLT,

SELF LOCKING NUT

17.1

17.6

An exploded view

An exploded view

of a typical exhaust

of a

typical catalytic converter

HEAT SHIELD

system

Chapter 4

Exhaust system servicing - general information

17

Refer

to illustrations

1 7. 1

and

1

7.6

Exhaust pipes and muffler Warning: Inspection and repair of exhaust system components should be done only after enough time has elapsed after driving the vehicle to allow the system components to cool completely Also, when working under the vehicle, make sure it is securely supported on jackstands. 1

The exhaust system (see

ifold(s).

illustration) consists of the exhaust

the catalytic converter, the muffler, the tailpipe and

all

143

Fuel and exhaust systems

protect your eyes from metal chips and work gloves to protect your hands. 4 Here are some simple guidelines to follow when repairing the exhaust system: a) Work from the back to the front when removing exhaust system components. b) Apply penetrating oil to the exhaust system component fasteners to make them easier to remove. c) Use new gaskets, hangers and clamps when installing exhaust systems components. d) Apply anti-seize compound to the threads of all exhaust system

fasteners during reassembly.

mane)

connecting

and clamps. The exhaust system is attached to the body with mounting brackets and rubber hangers. any of the parts are improperly Installed, excessive noise and vibration will be transmitted pipes, brackets, hangers

If

to the body.

Conduct regular inspections of the exhaust system to keep it safe and Look for any damaged or bent parts, open seams, holes, loose connections, excessive corrosion or other defects which could allow exhaust fumes to enter the vehicle. Check the catalytic converter too when you inspect the exhaust system (see below) Deteriorated exhaust system components should not be repaired: they should be replaced with new parts. If the exhaust system components are extremely corroded or rusted 3 together, welding equipment will probably be required to remove them. The convenient way to accomplish this is to have a muffler repair shop remove the corroded sections with a cutting torch. If, however, you want to save money by doing it yourself (and you don't have a welding outfit with a cutting torch), simply cut off the old components with a hacksaw. If you have compressed air, special pneumatic cutting chisels can also be used. If you do decide to tackle the job at home, be sure to wear safety goggles to

Be sure to allow sufficient clearance betweennewly installed parts and all points on the undertx)dy to avoid overheating the floor pan and possibly damaging the interior carpet and insulation. Pay particularly close attention to the catalytic converter and heat shield.

Catalytic converter

2

quiet.

.

Note: Although the catalytic converter is an emission control device (see Chapter 6 for more information), it is part of the exhaust system.

Warning: The converter gets very hot during operation. Make sure cooled down before you touch

it's

it.

5

Periodically, inspect the heat shield for cracks

.

dents or loose or miss-

ing fasteners.

6 for

7

Remove the

heat shield (see illustration) and inspect the converter

cracks or other damage. If

the converter must be replaced,

remove the mounting nuts from the

flanges at each end of the converter, detach the rubber hangers and separate the converter from the exhaust system (you should be able to push the exhaust pipes at each end out of the way to clear the converter studs. Installation is the reverse of removal. 8

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

systems

Contents Alternator- removal and installation Battery cables - check and replacement

- check and replacement 8 Radio condenser - check and replacement 9 11 Reluctor air gap - check and adjustment 12 Reluctor - replacement Spark plug check and replacement See Chapter 1 Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement See Chapter 1 21 Starter motor - in-vehicle check Starter motor - removal and installation 22 Starter solenoid - removal and installation 23 Starting system - general information and precautions 20 Vacuum advance diaphragm - check and replacement 13 19 Voltage regulator -description, check and replacement Voltage regulator and alternator brushes - replacement 18 (models with internal regulator only)

17 3 See Chapter 1

Igniter

and maintenance emergency jump starting 2 Battery removal and installation 4 Centrifugal advance - check 14 Charging system - check 16 Charging system - general information and precautions 15 Distributor - removal and installation 10 Drivebelt check, adjustment and replacement See Chapter 1 Ignition timing check and adjustment See Chapter 1 Battery check Battery -

General information Idle speed check and adjustment Ignition coil - check and replacement Ignition system - check Ignition system - general information

1

See Chapter

1

7

6 5

Specifications

Coil 1979 through 1985 vehicles; 1986 and 1987 carbureted vehicles Primary resistance

Secondary resistance 1 986 and 987 fuel-injected vehicles Primary resistance (between terminals A and D) Secondary resistance (between terminal A and

1

.06 to

7400

1

to

.24

ohms

11000 ohms

1

high tension terminal)

Resistance between terminals B and D

,

.

.

1

.21

5 to

1

.485

ohms

11 074 to 1 1 526 ohms Approx 2200 ohms

Chapter 5 1988 and

Engine

electrical

145

systems

later vehicles

Primary resistance (between terminals

A and D) A and

1.215 to 1.485

ohms

Secondary resistance (between terminal high tension terminal)

9040 2090

D

Resistance between terminals B and Radio condenser capacitance

to to

13560 ohms 2310 ohms

0.47 + 0.09 microfarads

Alternator brush length

New

5/8-inch

Limit

1

/4-inch

you are replacing either or both of the old cables, take them with you It is vitally important that you replace the cables with identical parts. Cables have characteristics that make them easy to identify: positive cables are usually red. larger in cross section and have a larger diameter battery post clamp; ground cables are usually black, smaller in cross-section and have a slightly smaller diameter clamp for the 5

General information

1

The engine electncal systems include all ignition, charging and starting components. Because of their engine-related functions.these components are discussed separately from chassis electrical devices such as the lights, the instruments, etc. (which are included in Chapter 12). Always observe the following precautions when working on the electrisystems:

cal

Be extremely careful when servicing engine electrical components. They are easily damaged checked, connected or handled

a)

If

when buying new cables.

negative post.

Clean the threads of the solenoid or ground connection with a wire 6 brush to remove rust and corrosion. Apply a light coat of battery terminal corrosion inhibitor, or petroleum

jelly,

to the threads to prevent future cor-

rosion.

if

Never leave the

ignition switch

on

for long

periods of time with the

engine off. Don't disconnect the battery cables while the engine is running. d) Maintain correct polarity when connecting a battery cable from another vehicle during jump starting. e) Always disconnect the negative cable first and hook it up last or the battery may be shorted by the tool being used to loosen the cable clamps. c)

good idea to review the safety-related information regarding the engine electrical systems located in the Safety first section near the front of this manual before beginning any operation included in this ChapIt's

Attach the cable to the solenoid or ground connection and tighten the

7

improperly. b)

mounting nut bolt securely. Before connecting a new cable to the battery, make sure that it reaches the battery post without having to be stretched. Connect the positive cable first, followed by the negative cable. 9 8

Battery - removal and installation

4

also a

Refer

ter. 1

to Illustration

4.2

Caution Always disconnect the negative cable first and hook it up or the battery may be shorted by the tool tieing used to loosen the :

last

cable clamps. Disconnect both cables from the battery terminals.

2

Battery

-emergency jump

2 starting

Remove

the battery hold

down clamp

or strap (see illustration).

Refer to the Booster battery (jump) starting procedure at the front of this

manual.

Battery cables - check and replacement

3

Periodically inspect the entire length of

1

each battery cable

for

dam-

age, cracked or burned insulation and corrosion. Poor battery cable connections

can

cause

starting

problems

and

decreased

engine

performance.

Check the cable-to-terminal connections at the ends of the cables for The presence of white, fluffy de-

2

cracks, loose wire strands and corrosion.

posits under the insulation at the cable terminal connection

is a sign that corroded and should be replaced. Check the terminals for distortion, missing mounting bolts and corrosion. When removing the cables, always disconnect the negative cable 3 first and hook it up last or the battery may be shorted by the tool used to loosen the cable clamps. Even if only the positive cable is being replaced. be sure to disconnect the negative cable from the battery first (see Chap-

the cable

is

for further information regarding battery cable removal). Disconnect the old cables from the battery, then trace each of them to their opposite ends and detach them from the starter solenoid and ground terminals. Note the routing of each cable to ensure correct installation.

ter

4

1

4.2

To remove the

battery,

detach the cable from the negative

terminal, detach the cable from the positive terminal, loosen the

hold

down

nuts (arrows) and remove the hold

down clamp

5

146

3

Engine

Chapter 5 Lift

out the battery.

Be

careful

-

it's

fieavy.

4 While the battery is out, inspect the carrier (tray) for corrosion (see Chapter!). 5 If you are replacing the battery, make sure that you get one that's identical, with the same dimensions, amperage rating, cold cranking rating, etc.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

6

5

Ignition

The tery,

the

earlier

system consists

of the ignition switch, the bat-

the distributor, the spark plug wires and the spark plugs.

coil,

systems, the pulse generator

is

On

located inside the distributor and

is externally mounted; on later systems, the pulse generator and igniter are both located in the distributor. The distributor runs directly off the camshaft. Earlier units employ centrifugal and vacuum advance systems; later units are advanced and re-

the igniter

tarded by the electronic control

systems

1 Make sure the ignition switch is off for the following checks. Remove the rubber coil boot (cover) and detach the high tension lead 2 from the secondary terminal. Using an ohmmeter, touch the probes to the positive and negative ter3 minals of the coil primary winding (see illustration), measure the resistance and compare your reading to the specified pnmary resistance. 4 Touch the probes to the secondary winding terminal and the primary winding positive terminal (see illustration), measure the resistance and

compare your reading to the specified resistance. The above figures will vary somewhat in accordance with the temper5 ature of the coil. The specified resistance values assume a coil tempera-

system - general information

electronic ignition

electrical

ture of about 70-degrees

F.

It may be a good idea to have checked by a dealer service department before buying a new one.

6

If

the coil

fails either

check, replace

it.

it

Replacement 8 9

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. Detach the wires from the coil terminals. Loosen the coil mounting clamp screw and remove the

1

Installation is the reverse of removal.

7

coil.

unit.

Warning: Transistorized electronic

ignition

systems generate consider-

ably higher voltage than conventional systems.

Be

extra careful vi/hen

servicing the ignition system.

6

Ignition

1986 and later fuel-injected vehicles; 1988 and later carbureted vehicles Check

system - check

Refer Attach an inductive timing

1

light to

each plug

wire,

one

at

a time, and

crank the engine.

2

a)

If

the

b)

If

the light

light

does not

flash,

is

reaching the plug.

proceed

If

to the next step.

1).

the engine

still

won't

start,

check the

ignition coil

7.

13

and

7.14

Make

1

Unplug the primary and secondary connectors and the

sure the ignition switch

is off

for the following tests. coil

high ten-

sion lead.

Inspect the spark plug wire(s), distributor cap, rotor and spark plug(s)

(see Chapter

3

flashes, voltage

to illustrations

1

(see Section

7).

1 Using an ohmmeter, touch the probes to terminals A and D of the primary winding (see illustration), measure the resistance between them and compare your reading to the specified resistance. 14 Touch the probes to terminal A and the secondary winding terminal (see illustration), measure the resistance and compare your reading to

the specified resistance.

7

Ignition coil

- check and replacement

All 1979 through 1985 vehicles; 1986

and 1987

carbureted vehicles Check Refer

to illustrations 7.3

and

7.4

7.3 To check the primary resistance on a conventional coil, touch one probe of an ohmmeter to the positive terminal and the other probe to the negative terminal and compare your reading with the specified primary resistance

1 Touch the probes to terminals B and D, measure the resistance and compare your reading to the specified resistance. 16 The above figures will vary somewhat in accordance with coil temperature. The specified resistance values assume a coil temperature of about

70-degrees

F.

the coil passes

1

If

fails

any

of the

all

three checks,

it's

above checks, replace

okay. Plug

in

the connectors.

If it

it.

7.4 To check the secondary resistance, touch one prot>e to a primary terminal and the other probe to the high tension terminal (it's

a

to check the resistance between each of the primary terminals and the high tension terminal)

good idea

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

7.13 To check the primary resistance on the newer type coil, touch the ohmmeter probes to terminals A and D and compare your reading with the specified primary resistance

7.14

systems

147

To check the secondary resistance, touch one probe to A and the other to the high tension terminal, measure the resistance and compare your reading with the

terminal

specified resistance

Replacement

if

21

Toyo Denso type igniter. The Hitachi unit is mounted inside the distribuand can only be checked by removing the distributor cap; the Toyo Denso is mounted on the side of the distributor and can be tested without removing the cap. If the igniter unit on your vehicle is a Hitachi type, remove the distribu2 tor cap (see Chapter 1) and unplug the leads from the igniter unit. If the igniter unit on your vehicle is a Toyo Denso type, remove the igniter cover, pull off the igniter and set aside (see replacement portion of this section or

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. 1 Unplug the primary connectors and detach the high tension lead from the coil, you haven't already done so. 20 Remove the two coil mounting bolts and detach the coil from its mounting bracket. 1

Installation is the

reverse of removal.

tor

it

below).

With the ignition switch on. check the voltage between the blue wire and body ground, and between the black/yellow wire and body ground (see Illustrations). There should be battery voltage. 4 With the leads still disconnected, check continuity in both directions between the two igniter terminals with an ohmmeter set on the R X ICO scale (see illustrations). There should be no continuity in only one direc3

8

Igniter

- check and replacement

Check 1979 through 1987 vehicles and 1988 carbureted vehicles Refer 1

to illustrations 8.3a. 8.3b.

Your vehicle's

ignition

8.4a and 8.4b

system may be equipped with either a Hitachi

tion.

Replace the

5

igniter

if

it

fails

any

of the

above

tests.

BLUE

BLACK YELLOW

WIRES

IGNITER TERMINALS

8.3a To check the Hitachi igniter, remove the distributor cap, unplug the leads to the igniter and hook up a voltmeter between each wire and ground

0/S3H

8.3b

To check the Toyo Denso igniter, remove the igniter module and check the voltage between the terminal for

the blue wire and ground and between the terminal for the black/ yellow wire and ground - battery voltage should

be available

148

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

systems

BLACK /YELLOW IGNITER UNIT

CONNECT A JUMPER

onsH

WIRE HERE To check the internal resistance of a Hitachi igniter, check ways between the two igniter terminals with an ohmmeter set on the R X 100 scale - there should be continuity in 8.4a

continuity both

only one direction

8.4b To check the internal resistance of a Toyo Denso igniter, connect a jumper wire as shown and check continuity both ways between the terminals for the blue and black/yellow wires with an ohmmeter set on the R X 100 scale - there should be continuity in

only one direction

1988 and

later fuel-injected

vehicles

on 1988 and later fuel-injected vehicles without a special checker. This procedure is therefore beyond the scope of the home mechanic. 6

You

can't

check the

igniter unit

14

Remove Remove

1

Installation

1

the igniter cover (see illustration). the igniter (see illustration). is

the reverse of removal.

Replacement Hitachi 7

Remove

rotor (see

8

the distributor cap,

Chapter

Remove

if

you haven't already done so and the

the reluctor (see Section 11).

is an early type with a four-pole stator, remove the stamounting screws, the stator and the magnet. If the distributor is a later unit with a two-pole stator, or is a newer type with an integral igniter, simply remove the igniter unit mounting screws. 10 Remove the pulse generator (early type only) or the igniter.

9

If

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Toyo Denso Refer 1

Radio condenser - check and replacement

Refer

to illustration 9.

the distributor

ler

11

9

1).

to illustrations 8.

Remove

13 and 8.14

the igniter cover screws.

8.13

Detach the igniter cover

Note: Thie radio condenser is a device that reduces ignition noise in ttte radio. It is included in tfiis Ctiapter because, when it fails, it can prevent the engine from running. 1 If you own or have access to a condenser tester, check the capacitance of the condenser (see illustration) and compare your reading with the specified capacitance. If you don t have a condenser tester, or access to one, take the condenser to a TV repair shop and have it tested. If the indicated capacitance isn't within specification, replace the con2

denser.

8.14

...

and remove the igniter - be sure to smear some grease on the igniter before Installing it

dielectric

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

149

systems

N°l CYLINDER

MARK Typical radio condenser installation -

you have a condenser checker, hook It up as shown and check the condenser; if you don't have one, have it checked or simply replace the condenser and see if that clears up the ignition problem 9.1

10

Distributor

- removal and

if

10.4

installation

Look

for a raised no.

1

on the distributor cap - that's where when you remove the distributor

the rotor should be pointing

Refer

to illustrations 10.4. 10.6. 10.9

and 10.10

Removal Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. Detach the hose from the vacuum advance diaphragm (if equipped). 3 Detach the primary leads from the coil. 4 Look for a raised "1 " on the distributor cap (see illustration). This marks the location for the number one cylinder spark plug wire terminal. If the cap does not have a mark for the number one terminal, locate the number one spark plug and trace the wire back to the terminal on the cap. 5 Remove the distributor cap (see Chapter 1 and turn the engine over until the rotor is pointing toward the number one spark plug terminal (see locating TDC procedure in Chapter 2). 6 Make a mark on the edge of the distributor base directly below the rotor tip and in line with it (if the rotor on your engine has more than one tip. use the center one for reference). Also, mark the distributor base and the engine block to ensure that the distributor is Installed correctly (see illus1

2

)

tration).

7

Unplug the

8

Remove

Caution

:

igniter leads

(see Section

the distributor hold

down

8).

bolts

and remove the

distributor.

DO NOT turn the crankshaft while the distributor Is out of the en-

gine, or the alignment

marks

will

be useless. 10.6

To

facilitate installation,

make one mark

directly

underneath

the rotor tip and the other between the distributor base and the head

Installation If the crankshaft has been moved while the distributor is out, the number one piston must be repositioned at TDC. This can be done by feeling for compression pressure at the number one plug hole as the crankshaft is turned. Once compression is felt, align the ignition timing zero mark with the pointer Install a new O-ring on the distributor housing (see illustration). 9 1 Insert the distributor Into the head in exactly the same relationship to the head that was in when removed. Note: The lugs on the end of the distributor and their corresponding grooves in the camshaft end are offset

Note:

.

it

to eliminate the possibility of installing the distributor

180-degrees out of

time (see illustration). 1 1

Recheck the alignment marks between the

block to verify that the distributor

is in

removal. Also check the rotor to see

If

the it's

on the edge of the distributor base. 12 Loosely install the hold-down bolts.

same

distributor

base and the

position

was

It

In

before

aligned with the mark you

made 10.9

Install a

new

O-ring (arrow) on the bottom of the distributor installing the distributor

housing before

150

Chapter 5

Engine

electrical

systems

AIR

AIR

GAP

gap

at the

GAP RELUCTOR

Note the offset groove in the nose of camshaft for the lugs on the distributor shaft - this ensures that you won't install the distributor 180-degrees out of phase

10.10

13

Attach the igniter leads

1

Install

b)

If

1

)

tor hold

down

1

2 3 are

equipped with a Toyo Denso distributor and the check for damage to the stator or reluctor. If any

to the stator is evident,

to the reluctor, replace

replace the distributor;

air

to illustrations 11.3a

is

Reluctor - replacement

2

Refer

and 11.3b

to illustration 12.3

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. 2 Remove the distributor cap (see Chapter 1 ). 3 Remove the reluctor by prying it loose with a pair of small screwdrivers (see illustration). Be careful - using excessive force to pry off the re1

air

gaps

equal (see illustrations). a) If your vehicle is equipped with a Hitachi distributor and the gaps all

screws and move the stator until the the same. Tighten the screws, then recheck the

luctor

may

result in

damage

to the stator.

aren't equal, loosen the stator

4

Installation is the reverse of removal.

gaps are all gaps to make sure

new

reluctor with the

air

that they are

still

equal.

AIR

a

the pin

Toyo Denso

distributor,

measure the

four points indicated

number

gap away from the

Make

sure that you

or letter manufacturing

install

the

code facing up and

shaft.

STATOR

GAPS

w

STATOR

On

there

gap - check and adjustment

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal. Remove the distributor cap and rotor (see Chapter 1 ). Using a non-magnetic (brass) feeler gauge, verify that the

11.3b

if

it.

distribu-

1

Refer

is

aren't equal,

bolt securely.

Reluctor

11

your vehicle

damage damage

Connect the cable

1

a Hitachi distributor, measure the reluctor air two points indicated

gaps

the distributor cap.

Reattach the spark plug wires to the plugs (if removed). to the negative terminal of the battery. Check the ignition timing (refer to Chapter 1 and tighten the

1

On

11 .3a

SCREW

RELUCTOR RELUCTOR

air

gap

at the

1

To remove the reluctor from the distributor shaft, pry it off with a pair of screwdrivers - be sure to use a couple of rags under the screwdriver to protect the stator assembly

2.3

from damage

Chapter 5

Engine

To remove the vacuum advance diaphragm, first remove the C-clip

13.6

(arrow) that attaches

it

electrical

systems

151

Diaphragm mounting screws (arrows) (Toyo Denso shown, Hitachi distributor similar)

13.7

distributor

to the

breaker plate

The

Vacuum advance diaphragm - check and replacement

13

fusible link

a short length

Is

gine compartment wiring harness.

of insulated wire Integral with the en-

The

link Is

four wire

diameter than the circuit It protects. Production fusible tification flags

Check 1

Detach the cable from the negative battery terminal.

Remove

the distributor cap.

Detach the vacuum hose(s) from the vacuum advance diaphragm on and attach a vacuum pump In its place. 4 Turn the braker plate right and left to check for freedom of movement. 5 Apply a gradual vacuum while watching the breaker plate. Verify that the braker plate operates smoothly -there should be no binding. 3

the distnbutor

b)

If

there's binding, replace the breaker plate.

the vacuum pump gauge indicates a loss phragm Is defective and must be replaced. If

vacuum, the

of

dia-

The charging system doesn't ordinarily require periodic maintenance. However, the drivebelt, battery and wires and connections should be inspected at the intervals outlined In Chapter 1 The dashboard warning light should come on when the ignition key Is turned to Start, then go off immediately. If It remains on, there Is a malfunction in the charging system (see Section 16). Some vehicles are also equipped with a voltmeter. If the voltmeter indicates abnormally high or low voltage, check the charging system (see Section 16). Be very careful when making electrical circuit connections to a vehicle equipped with an alternator and note the following: a)

Replacement Refer

13.6

b)

and 13.7

the C-clip (see illustration).

the mounting screws (see illustration). Detach the diaphragm arm. then pull the diaphragm out

8

d) Installation is the reverse of

Before using arc welding equipment to repair any part of the vehicle, disconnect the wires from the alternator and the battery terminals.

c)

of the distrib-

utor.

9

When reconnecting wires to the alternator from the battery, be sure to note the polanty.

to illustrations

Remove Remove

6 7

See Chapter 1 2 for additional

information regarding fusible links.

2

a)

are Identified by the flag color.

gauges smaller In and their iden-

links

Never start the engine with a battery charger connected. Always disconnect both battery leads before using a battery charger.

removal. e)

The

alternator

serious Injury

turned by an engine drivettelt which could cause your hands, hair or clothes become entangled in it

Is

if

with the engine running.

14

Centrifugal advance

-check

f)

Because the alternator is connected directly to the battery, it could cause a fire overloaded or shorted out. Wrap a plastic bag over the alternator and secure with rubberbands before steam cleaning the engine. arc or

Detach the vacuum hose(s) from the vacuum advance diaphragm

1

and plug them. 2 Connect a timing

light In

accordance with the manufacturers

g)

if

It

instruc-

tions.

3

Start the engine

The

timing

mark

(T)

firewall, indicating

centrifugal

and increase the engine speed to should appear

an Increase

to

move

In ignition

advance mechanism

to

see

advance.

if

It's

at)out

2500 RPM.

Charging system - check

16

past the pointer toward the If It

doesn't,

check the

stuck.

1

If

a malfunction occurs

sume that the

alternator

Is

In

the charging circuit, don't automatically as-

causing the problem.

First

check the following

items; a)

Check

the dnvebelt tension and condition (Chapter 1 ). Replace it worn or detenorated. Make sure the alternator mounting and adjustment twits are tight. Inspect the alternator wiring harness and the connectors at the alternator and voltage regulator. They must t>e in good condition and if

1

5

Charging system - general information and precautions

b) c)

The charging system Includes the alternator, an internal or external voltage regulator, a charge Indicator, the battery, a fusible link and the wiring between all the components. The charging system supplies electncal power

for the Ignition

system, the

lights,

the radio, etc.

The

alternator

Is

driven by a drivebelt at the front of the engine.

The purpose of the voltage regulator Is to limit the alternator s voltage a preset value. This prevents power surges, circuit overloads, etc.. during peak voltage output.

to

It's

tight.

d)

Check the fusible link (if equipped) located between the starter solenoid and the alternator. If it's burned, determine the cause, repair the circuit and replace the link (the vehicle won't start and or the accessones won't work the fusible link blows). Sometimes a fusible link may look good, but still be bad. in doubt, remove and check If

If

for continuity.

it

152

Engine

Chapter 5

e)

engine and check the alternator for abnormal noises sound indicates a bad bearing).

Start the

(a

shrieking or squealing

Check

f)

g)

h)

the specific gravity of the battery electrolyte.

If

it's

low,

charge the battery (doesn't apply to maintenance tree batteries). tvlake sure the battery is fully charged (one bad cell in a battery can cause overcharging by the alternator). Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion Clean

them thoroughly to the

it

necessary (see Chapter

1 ).

Reconnect the cable

negative terminal.

connect a test light between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable clamp. With the key

i)

1)

the test

If

ceed 2)

If

light

does not come on, reattach the clamp and pro-

the test

If

1 Many new/rebuilt alternators DO NOT have a pulley installed, so you may have to switch the pulley from the old unit to the new/rebuilt one. When buying an alternator, find out the shop's policy regarding pulleys some shops will perform this service tree of charge.

12

Installation is the reverse of removal.

1

After the alternator is installed, adjust the drivebelt tension(see Chap-

ter 1).

14

Check the charging voltage to verify proper operation of the alternator

comes on, there is a short (drain) in the electrical The short must be repaired before the

light

of the vehicle.

charging system can be checked. Disconnect the alternator wiring harness. (a)

Look at the terminals - they should be the same m number, size and location as the terminals on the old alternator Finally, look at the identification numbers they will be stamped into the housing or printed on a tag attached to the housing. Make sure the numbers are the same on both alternators. to the old alternator.

(see Section 16).

to the next step.

system 3)

off,

systems

electrical

the

goes

light

18

out, the alternator is bad.

Voltage regulator and alternator brushes - replacement (models with internal regulator only)

stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out (this you which component is shorted). 2 Using a voltmeter, check the battery voltage with the engine off. If should be approximately 12-volts. Start the engine and check the battery voltage again. It should now be 3

Note: Don't attempt to overhaul the alternator If it malfunctions, take it to a dealer and have it rebuilt or exchange it as a core for a rebuilt unit. If. how-

approximately 14-to-15 volts. Turn on the headlights. The voltage should drop, and then come back 4 up, if the charging system is working properly. If the voltage reading is more than the specified charging voltage, 5 check and if necessary replace the voltage regulator (refer to Section 1 9).

ever the charge (warning) light stays on after the engine has been started or if the electrolyte level in the battery drops frequently (indicating an overcharge condition), you can easily replace the brush and regulator assembly yourself. This procedure applies only to 1986 and 1987 fuel-injected vehicles and all 1988 and later vehicles.

(b)

If

the

light

will tell

If

the voltage

is

less, the alternator diode(s), stator or rectifier

may be

or the voltage regulator

may be bad

Refer

1

to illustrations 18.2a. 18.2b. 18.3. 18.4a. 18.4b. 18.5

Remove

the alternator (Section 17) and place

it

and 18.7

on a clean work-

bench.

malfunctioning.

2

Remove the three

rear cover nuts, the nut

and terminal

insulator and

the rear cover (see illustrations).

17

Refer 1

2

3

Remove the five voltage regulator and brush holder mounting screws 3 (see illustration) 4 Remove the brush holder and the regulator from the rear end frame

Alternator - removal and installation

to illustration 17.4

(see illustrations).

Raise the vehicle and place securely on jackstands. Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Detach the electncal connectors from the alternator. it

Loosen the alternator adjustment and pivot bolts and detach the drive(see illustration) Remove the adjustment and pivot bolts and separate the alternator 5 from the engine. 4

belt

6 7

Remove Place a

floor jack

the alternator bracket and bolts from the engine block.

floor jack

and

oil

pan

under the engine with a block

to

prevent

damage

gine just enough to take the weight

8

Remove the

to the oil

off of

the

support bolts that hold the

of

wood between the

pan, then raise the en-

engine mount. engine mount, then raise

left

left

8, install

Remove

1

If

the alternator from the bottom of the car. you are replacing the alternator, take the old one with you when purchasing a replacement unit. Make sure the new/rebuilt unit looks identical

If

you are only replacing the

regulator,

proceed to Step

new unit, reassemble the alternator and install on the engine

(see Section

it

1

7).

If

you are going

to replace the

brushes proceed with the

next Step.

Measure the exposed length of each brush (see illustration) and compare to the specified minimum length. If the length of either brush is less than the specified minimum, replace the brushes. 6 Make sure that each brush moves smoothly in the brush holder 5

it

7 Install the brush holder by depressing each brush with a small screwdnver to clear the shaft (see illustration). Install the voltage regulator and brush holder screws into the rear 8 frame.

and

9

Install

the rear cover

1

Install

the terminal insulator

1

Install

the alternator (see Section

the engine up approximately 4 inches.

9

the

19

tighten the three nuts securely.

and

tighten 1

it

with the nut.

7).

Voltage regulator - description, check and replacement

Description 1

Early alternators

(

1

979 through

1

982 models) are equipped with an 1 983

external, mechanical point-type voltage regulator. Later alternators

(

985 models) use an external IC (integrated circuit, or solid state) regulator The newest alternators (1986 and later) use an IC regulator housed inside the alternator 2 The voltage regulator controls the current supply to the alternator field (stator) coils. When the engine is running very slowly and the alternator through

1

under

output voltage

is

the alternator

Once

1

2

full field

current to

exceeds 14

volts, the

volts, the regulator delivers

the alternator output voltage

regulator relay switches off the direct supply of

full

field

current to the alter-

nator and switches the current to a circuit with a series resistor, limiting the

17.4

The

alternator adjustment

and pivot bolts (arrows)

field

current -

and the output voltage -

of the alternator

Chapter 5

18.2a

Remove

the three nuts from the

18.2b

rear cover

Engine

Take the

electrical

Once the rear cover is off, remove the five screws (arrows) that retain the

washer and B and remove the

18.3

nut,

insulator off terminal

voltage regulator and the brush holder

alternator rear cover

1

8.4a

Remove

the brush holder

18.4b

.

153

systems

...

and the regulator

•^Si?iafe ..^

1

k

Measure the exposed length of the brushes and compare your measurements to the specified minimum length to determine whether they should be replaced 18.5

154

Engine

Chapter 5

Check :

with a

mechanical regulator all

fuses are good

before proceeding.

With the engine at Idle, detach the negative battery cable from the Then attach a voltmeter to the disconnected negative cable and

4

battery.

the battery positive terminal.

5

If

the engine immediately stops

If

depressed (manual transmission). is charged and that all cables, both at the battery and starter solenoid terminals, are clean and secure. If the starter motor spins but the engine is not cranking, the overrun3 ning clutch in the starter motor is slipping and the stater motor must be reor that the clutch pedal

Make sure that all lights and accessories are off and

3

the starter motor does not turn at all when the switch is operated, make sure that the shitt lever is in Neutral or Park (automatic transmission) 1

Note This procedure applies only to vehicles (1979 through 1982 models).

when the negative cable is detached,

Make

2

and check the voltage at the

black/yel-

low wire at the regulator connector (P65). a)

there's

If

tor/fuel

no voltage, check for continuity between the 1 0A regulafuse and connector J65. Repair or replace parts as

pump

necessary. b)

voltage

If

at all If

1

is

present, check the red/white wire for system voltage

connectors between the regulator and alternator. voltage

is

available at the alternator, check alternator output

(see Section 16). 2)

If

4

place the regulator (see Step

7).

Vary the engine speed from 2000 to 4000 rpm and note the voltage

6

reading. a)

If

It

should be between 13.5 to 14.5

the voltage

is

volts.

within limits, shut off the engine

and reattach the

b)

If

the voltage

isn't

noid

itself is

actuated, the starter motor does not operate at lies

with either the battery, the

defective.

and the

(+)

on the solenoid. okay and the problem is m

ignition switch wire terminal (the small terminal)

the starter motor

now operates,

the solenoid

is

If

the ignition switch, neutral start switch or the wiring. If

the starter motor

assembly 8

If

for

still

does not operate, remove the

starter/solenoid

disassembly, testing and repair.

the starter motor cranks the engine at an abnormally slow speed,

first

make sure that the battery is charged and that all terminal connections

are

tight.

If

the engine

crank slowly. Run the engine

partially seized, or

is

has the wrong viscosity oil

in

it.

will

then disconnect the

until

coil

normal operating temperature

is

reached,

wire from the distributor cap and ground

it

on the

engine.

Replacement

1

To replace either of the earlier external type regulators, simply detach

7

is

To check the solenoid, connect a jumper lead between the battery

6

9

within specification, replace the regulator.

the switch

main solenoid contacts or the starter motor itself (or the engine is seized If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard when the switch is actuated, 5 the battery is bad, the fusible link is burned (the circuit is open) or the sole-

it

battery negative cable.

when

If,

but the solenoid clicks, then the problem

7

there's no voltage in the red/white wire at the regulator, re-

is

sure that the battery

placed.

all

reattach the cable, start the engine

systems

electrical

the cable from the negative battery terminal, detach the electrical leads

Connect a voltmeter positive lead to the positive battery post and con-

nect the negative lead to the negative post.

Crank the engine and take the voltmeter readings as soon as a steady is indicated. Do not allow the starter motor to turn for more than 30 seconds at a time. A reading of 9 volts or more, with the starter motor turning at normal cranking speed, is normal. If the reading is 9 volts or more but the cranking speed is slow, the motor is faulty. If the reading is less than 9 volts and the cranking speed is slow, the solenoid contacts are probably burned, the starter motor is bad, the battery is discharged or there is a bad 1

from the regulator and unbolt it from its mounting bracket. To replace the internal type regulator, refer to Section 18. 8

20

Starting

figure

system - general information and precautions

connection.

The sole function of the starting system is to turn over the engine quickly enough to allow to start. The starting system consists of the battery, the starter motor.the starter solenoid and the wires connecting them. The solenoid is mounted directly it

on the

starter motor.

The

solenoid/starter motor

assembly

is

installed

on the lower part

of

22

Starter

motor - removal and

installation

the engine, next to the transmission bellhousing.

When

the ignition key

is

turned to the Start position, the starter sole-

actuated through the starter control circuit. The starter solenoid then connects the battery to the

noid

tery supplies the electrical tual

1

Detach the cable from the negative terminal

2

Clearly label, then disconnect the wires from the terminals on the

is

work

The

of

energy

to the starter motor,

The batwhich does the acstarter.

cranking the engine.

motor on a vehicle equipped with a manual transmission pan only be operated when the clutch pedal is depressed; the starter on a vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission can only be operated when the transmission selector lever is in Park or Neutral. Always observe the following precautions when working on the starting system: a) Excessive cranking of the starter motor can overheat it and cause serious damage. Never operate the starter motor for more than 399 seconds at a time without pausing to allow it to cool for at least two starter

minutes. b)

3 4

23

1

2

The

starter is connected directly to the battery and could arc or cause a fire mishandled, overloaded or shorted out. Always detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery before working on the starting system. if

c)

starter

3

motor and solenoid. the mounting bolts and detach the

Remove

of the battery.

starter.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Starter solenoid

- removal and

installation

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Remove the starter motor (see Section 22). Disconnect the large wire from the solenoid to the starter motor termi-

nal.

Remove the screws which secure the solenoid to the starter motor gear housing and detach the solenoid from the gear housing. 5 While the solenoid is removed, check the overrunning clutch by sliding it along its shaft. If it doesn't move freely, or the clutch slips when you rotate the armature while holding the drive gear, replace the clutch assembly. If the gear is worn or damaged, replace the complete overrunning clutch assembly (the gear isn't available separately). If the starter gear 4

if

21

Starter

motor - In-vehicle check

Note: Before diagnosing starter problems, charged.

make

sure the battery

is fully

teeth are

6

damaged, you should also inspect

Installation is the reverse of removal.

the flywheel or driveplate.

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems

Contents system

Air jet controller

7

Ignition timing control

Catalytic converter

8

Intake air temperature control system

Fuel evaporative control system

9 3

Throttle control

General information

1

Extiaust gas recirculation

(EGR) system

General information To prevent pollution

of the

atmosphere from incompletely burned and

evaporating gases, and to maintain good driveability and fuel economy,

a number of emission control systems are incorporated. They include the:

Feedback Control system Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system Secondary air supply system Fuel evaporative control system Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system Intake air temperature control system Catalytic converter

Positive

Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system system

5 4 2 6

your ability, consult a dealer service department. Remember, the most frequent cause of Smissions problems is simply a loose or broken vacuum hose or wire, so always check the hose and wiring connections first. This doesn't mean, however, that emission control systems are particularly difficult to maintain and repair. You can quickly and easily perform many checks and do most of the regular maintenance at home with common tune-up and hand tools. Note: Because of a Federally mandated extended warranty which covers the emission control system components, check with your dealer about warranty coverage before working on any emissions-related systems. Once the warranty has expired, you may wish to perform some of the component checks and/or replacement procein this Chapter to save money. Pay close attention to any special precautions outlined in this Chapter. should be noted that the illustrations of the various systems may not exactly match the system installed on your vehicle because of changes

dures

It

The Sections

Chapter include general descriptions, checking procedures within the scope of the home mechanic and component replacement procedures (when possible) for some of the systems listed above. Before assuming that an emissions control system is malfunctioning, check the fuel and ignition systems carefully. The diagnosis of some emission control devices requires specialized tools, equipment and training. If checking and servicing become too difficult or if a procedure is beyond in this

made by the manufacturer during production or from year-to-year. A Vehicle Emissions Control Information label is located in the engine compartment. This label contains important emissions specifications and adjustment information, as well as a vacuum hose schematic with emissions components identified. When servicing the engine or emissions systems, the VECI label in your particular vehicle should always be checked for up-to-date information.

6

156

Emissions control systems

Chapter 6

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system

2

Refer

to illustration 2.

The

Crankcase

(PCV) system (see illustration) reduces hydrocarbon emissions by scavenging crankcase vapors. It does 1

Positive

by circulating fresh air from the air cleaner through the crankcase, where it mixes with blow-by gases and is then rerouted through a breather

hose

to the intake

PCV

valve and

manifold (pre-1 983 models) later models are ;

filter

fitted

with

system.

The main components of the PCV system are the PCV valve, a fresh and the vacuum hoses connecting these two components

air filtered inlet

with the engine.

3

To maintain

idle quality,

vacuum

the

PCV valve

restricts the flow

when the

in-

abnormal operating conditions (such as piston ring problems) arise, the system is designed to allow excessive amounts of blow-by gases to flow back through the crankcase vent tube into the air cleaner to be consumed by normal combustion. Checking and replacement of the PCV valve and filter is covered in 4 Chapter 1 take manifold

is

General description

Ventilation

this

a 2

Fuel evaporative control system

3

high.

The fuel evaporative control system absorbs fuel vapors and, during engine operation, releases them into the engine intake where they mix with the incoming air-fuel mixture. Every evaporative system employs a canister filled with activated 2 charcoal to abeorbfuel vapors. The means by which these vapors are controlled, however, varies considerably from one system to another. The fol1

lowing description of typical carburetor and fuel-injected systems should provide you with enough information to understand the specific system on

your vehicle.

If

AIR

Carbureted vehicles Note

7/76 folio wing description is not intended as

a specific description of it is intended as a general description of ttie typical system used on carbureted vehicles. Although the following components are most likely all used on your particular tf)e

:

evaporative system on your particular vetiicle: rather,

CLEANER

BLOW BY

FILTER

A

typical Positive

Ventilation (PCV)

Crankcase system

Chapter 6 evap system, there

may also be other devices,

157

Emissions control systems

not included here, which

are unique to your evap system.

Should the evaporative system fail, the fuel filler cap is fitted with a 3 two-way valve as a safety device. 4 Another two-way valve, mounted on the fuel tank, regulates the pressure or vacuum caused by temperature changes. When a rise in temperature drives the pressure up inside the tank, the two-way valve vents fuel vapor to the charcoal canister When a drop in temperature creates a relative

vacuum

5

Fuel vapors are carried through vent hoses to the charcoal canister,

in

the tank, the valve admits

air into

the tank.

where

they're absorbed by activated charcoal. When the engine is off, the fuel passages for the main and primary 6 slow fuel metering system are closed by the carburetor fuel cut-off solenoid valves so that fuel in the float chamber can't enter the carburetor bore. When the engine is off, the air vent passages in the main and auxiliary 7 float chambers are closed by the valve attached to the air vent cut-off diaphragm, so fuel vapors in the float chambers can vent only to the charcoal canister. When the engine is running, manifold vacuum holds the cut-off diaphragm open. The vacuum holding valve stabilizes manifold vacuum at the diaphragm. When the engine is on, and coolant temperature exceeds a preset 8 temperature, a purge control/unloader solenoid valve is deactivated, allowing vacuum to reach a purge control diaphragm valve in the canister. Fuel vapors from the canister are then drawn through the purge fitting by

To check the charcoal canister, detach the inlet hose and, with the engine idling, place your finger over the fitting - you should feel suction as the fuel vapors in the canister are being

3.15

drawn out by intake vacuum

carburetor vacuum.

On California vehicles, when the ignition is off the power valve control 9 solenoid is open to a check valve which holds vacuum between the check

1

5

,

valve and the power valve, closing the power valve and cutting

on the vehicle, ister inlet

off

the fuel 1

passage.

6

(refer to your Vacuum Hose Routing Diagram necessary) and place your finger over the end of the can-

Detach the intake hose if

tube (see illustration).

Run the engine at idle and increase the speed to 2500 rpm.

If

the can-

be drawn into the canister through the suction. If you don't feel suction, replace the

ister is functioning correctly, air will

Fuel-injected vehicles Note The following description is not intended as a specific description of the evaporative system on your particular vehicle; rather, it is a general description of the typical system used on fuel-injected vehicles. Although the following components are most likely all used on your particular evap system, there may also be other devices, not included here, which are unique to your evap system. :

When fuel vapor pressure in the fuel tank is higher than the set valve 1 on the two-way valve (located on the fuel tank), the valve opens and regulates the flow of fuel vapors to the charcoal canister. 1 The charcoal canister temporarily stores fuel vapors until they can be purged from the canister into the engine and burned. 1 Canister purging is controlled by a vapor purge control system, which is opened or closed by a thermovalve. When the engine coolant temperature is below 1 31 -degrees F, the thermovalve provides no manifold vacuum to the purge control valve: when the temperature exceeds 131 -degrees F, the thermovalve directs manifold vacuum to the purge control valve, which admits ported vacuum to the canister and draws fresh air through the canister and into a port on the throttle body.

inlet

tube and you

will feel

canister.

Component replacement 17

When

you replace a

vacuum hoses attached

4

faulty

to the

component, be sure

to clearly label

Intake air temperature control system

Refer

to illustration 4.

General description 1 The intake air temperature control system (see Illustration) provides heated intake air duhng warm-up, then maintains a uniform intake air temperature of about 100-degrees F by mixing hot and cool air. This allows leaner fuel/air mixture settings for the carburetor, which reduces emissions and improves driveability.

AIR

CDNTROL COOR

Checking

R

Oh^ROt Diaphragm

CHECK VALVE

Note: Checking all the individual components described above is beyond the scope of the home mechanic. Fortunately, the evaporative control sys-

tem, like

all

emission control systems,

is

protected by a Federally man-

dated, extended warranty (5 years/50. 000 miles at the time ofpublication).

Anyway, most of these devices won t fail during the service life of the vehicle. There are, however some parts of the system that you can check yourself if the evaporative system malfunctions.

Hoses 1 Always check the hoses first. A disconnected, damaged or missing hose is the most likely cause of a malfunctioning evaporative system. Refer to the Vacuum Hose Routing Diagram on the hood of your vehicle to determine whether the hoses are correctly routed and attached. Repair any damaged hoses or replace any missing hoses as necessary.

Canister Refer

to illustration 3.

15

HOT AIR OUC INTAKE AIR

1

Remove the the canister from the firewall (but don't detach the upper

hoses).

any

device to insure proper reassembly.

4.1

SENSOR

Typical intake air temperature control system

6

158

Emissions control systems

Chapter 6

Two fresh air intakes - one hot and one cold - are used. The balance between the two is controlled by the air control diaphragm, which operates an air control door in the air cleaner. When the underhood temperature is cold, the bimetal spring in the in3 2

sensor closes, causing the air control door to rise. Warm air radiatexhaust manifold is trapped by shroud which fits over the manifold and routed up through a hot air duct into the air cleaner. This pro-

take

air

ing off the

warm air for the carburetor, resulting in better driveability and faster warm-up. As the temperature inside the air cleaner rises, the control door is gradually closed by the air control diaphragm (which, in turn is controlled by the intake air sensor) and the air cleaner draws air through an outside air duct instead. The result is a consistent intake air temperature. vides

TO CARBURETTOR

VALVE ACTUATOR

VALVE

Checking Make sure

Note:

that the

engine

is

cold before beginning this

test.

7.1

4 Always check the vacuum source and the integrity of all vacuum hoses between the source and the air control diaphragm before beginning the following test. Do not proceed until they're okay. Apply the parking brake and block the wheels. 5 Detach, but do not remove, the air cleaner housing and element (see 6 Chapter 4). Turn the air cleaner housing upside down so the air control door is vis7 ible. The door should be open. If it isn't, might be binding or sticking. Make sure that it's not rusted in an open or closed position by attempting to move it by hand. If it's rusted, it can usually be freed by cleaning and oiling

Cutaway view

of a typical air jet controller

ondary carburetor throat. I 2 Atmospheric pressure goes down as the altitude goes up, which allows the bellows to expand, opening the valve in the air jet controller and increasing air flow to the jets to maintain an optimum air/fuel ratio at altitude.

it

work properly after servicing, replace the air control door is okay but the motor still fails to operate correct8 ly, check carefully for a leak in the hose leading to it. Check the vacuum source to and from the intake air sensor with a hand vacuum pump. If no leak is found, replace the air control diaphragm. the hinge.

If

it

fails to

Checking 3

it.

to

If

5

Ignition timing control

If you suspect that the air jet controller is malfunctioning, the best way check is to simply substitute a known good controller.

Component replacement 4

8

system

The ignition timing control system alters ignition timing during and afengine warm-up to reduce emissions, maximize fuel economy and enhance performance. Basically, the system overrides the normal distributor timing control 2 mechanisms (vacuum and centrifugal advance) and alters ignition timing in accordance with engine speed and load. Due to the complexity of this system and the large number of different components used on various versions of the system, checking it is beyond the scope of the home mechan-

it

The

controller

is

located on the firewall.

Catalytic converter

Refer

to illustration 8.

1

ter

enf)issions-related components such as the catalytic converter, check with a dealer service department before replacing the converter at your own expense.

General description The catalytic converter (see illustration) is an emission control deadded to the exhaust system to reduce pollutants from the exhaust gas stream. There are two types of converters. The conventional oxidation 1

vice

ic.

6

1

Note: Becauseofa Federally mandated extended warranty which covers

Throttle control

The

open

When the engine is is

system improves combustion by holding the admit extra air during shifting and deceleration. running above idle speed, ported vacuum in the carbu-

throttle control

throttle slightly

retor

system

to

applied to the throttle controller through a dashpot check valve.

deceleration, this

vacuum

is

bled

off

through an

orifice in the

On

dashpot

check valve, gradually diminishing until the throttle closes entirely. Throttle closing speed is determined by the size of the dashpot check valve orifice, the tension of the throttle return spring and the amount of vacuum available at the carburetor port.

2

Because

scope

7

of the

of the

complexity of

this

system, checking

it

is

beyond the

home mechanic.

COORUCATEO MESH RINC

Air jet controller

EXPANSION RINC

General description Refer

to illustration

7.

The air jet controller (see illustration) is an atmospheric pressure 1 sensing device which controls the amount of air flow into the slow and main air jets of the pnmary carburetor throat and the slow air jet of the sec-

8.1

Cutaway view

of a typical catalytic converter

,

|

Chapter 6 catalyst reduces the levels of hydrocarbon (HC)

and cartjon monoxide

(CO). The three-way catalyst lowers the levels of oxides of nitrogen (NOx) as well as hydrocartxjns (HC) and cartx)n monoxide (CO).

Checking The

equipment for a catalytic converter is expensive and highly sophisticated. If you suspect that the converter on your vehicle is malfunc2

test

tioning, take

it

to

a dealer or authorized emissions inspection

facility for

Whenever

Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system

9

General description The EGR system reduces oxides of nitrogen (NOx) emissions by re-

1

circulating

components, check the converter for leaks, corrosion, dents and other damage. Check the welds- flange bolts that attach the front and rear ends of the conthe vehicle

is

raised for servicing of underbody

verter to the exhaust system.

If

damage

is

discovered, the converter

should be replaced. Although catalytic converters don't break too often, they do become plugged. The easiest way to check for a restncted converter is to use a vacuum gauge to diagnose the effect of a blocked exhaust on intake vacu-

4

into the

incoming

fuel/air

mixture

in

the intake

The primary component

in

the

EGR

system

is

the

EGR

valve,

which

regulates the flow of exhaust gasses into the intake manifold.

Checking Note: The most common dnveablllty problem associated with a malfunctioning EGR system is an engine that runs rough at idle speed and

smooches out when speed is increased. This problem is usually caused by an EGR valve stuck in the open position or a misrouted vacuum hose (allowing vacuum to the EGR valve at idle).

Hoses

um. about 2000 RPM.

a)

Open

b)

Release the throttle quickly. If there is no restriction, the gauge will quickly drop to not more than 2 in Hg or more above its normal reading. If the gauge does not show 5 in Hg or more above its normal reading, or seems to momentarily hover around its highest reading for a moment before returns, the exhaust system, or the converter, is plugged (or an exhaust pipe is bent or dented, or the core inside the muffler has shifted).

c)

d)

the throttle

until

the engine speed

is

vacuum hoses between the intake manifold and the EGR Look for cracking, hardening, general deterioration and misrouting (refer to the vacuum hose routing diagrams in the vehicles engine compartment). Replace any hoses that are in questionable condition. 3

Inspect the

valve.

EGR

Refer to the exhaust system removal and installation Section in Chap-

ter 4.

and allow

Start the engine

5

Disconnect the vacuum hose from the

it

to idle.

EGR valve and connect a hand

vacuum pump. Apply vacuum with the pump. The engine should 6

run roughly or

stall.

change or changes very little, replace the EGR valve. 7 Because of the complexity of the EGR system on these vehicles, further checking is beyond the scope of the home mechanic. Take the vehicle the idle does not

If

Component replacement

valve

4

it

5

exhaust gases

manifold.

2

diagnosis and repair.

3

159

Emissions control systems

to

a dealer service department or other qualified shop.

m

6'

Chapter 7 Part

A Manual

transaxle

Contents General information

Manual transaxle - removal and installation assembly - removal and installation

1

change Lubricant level check Manual transaxle - overhaul

See Chapter See Chapter

Lubricant

1

Shift

1

Oil seal

6

.

.

replacement Transaxle mount - check and replacement

Specifications

Clearances Fifth

gear-to-shoulder on spacer collar

Standard

0.001 to 0.005

Service

0.01

limit

in

(0.25

in

(0.03 to 0.13

mm)

(0.05 to 0.35

mm)

mm)

Fifth/reverse shift shaft pin-to-reverse shift fork

Standard

0.002

Service

0.02

limit

Reverse idler gear-to-reverse Standard Service

idler

gear

.•

shift fork slot shift fork

0.014

in

mm)

shift fork

limit

Reverse Reverse

to

in (0.5

fingers

0.008 to 0.04 in (0.2 to 0.07 in (1 .7 mm)

1

.0

mm)

0.278 to 0.285 in (7.05 to 7.25 mm) 0.46 to 0.48 in (11.8 to 12.1 mm)

Synchronizer ring-to-gear Standard

1979 through 1985 1986 on Service limit (all models) Shift fork-to-synchronizer

to

0.043 in (0.85 to 1.10 mm) 0.047 in (0.73 to 1.18 mm)

0.01 6

in

to (0.4

0.014 0.039

to

0.026

in to

mm)

sleeve

Standard Service

0.033 0.029

limit

Transaxle housing bearing snap-ring (dimension A) Mainshaft Countershaft Differential pinion

gear backlash

Differential thrust

washer available thicknesses

in (1 .0

(0.35 to 0.65

in

mm)

mm) mm) mm) 0.15 mm)

0.118 to 0.314

in

0.276 0.002

to

in (7.0 to 7.1

to

0.279 0.006

0.028 0.030

in

(0.70

in

(0.75

0.031

in

(0.80

0.033 0.035

in

(0.85

in

(0.90

0.037 0.039

in

(0.95

in

(1.00

0.004

to

0.014

(3.0 to 8.0

in

(0.05 to

mm) mm) mm) mm) mm) mm) mm)

Mainshaft End

play

in

(0.10 to 0.35

mm)

Third gear shoulder-to-second gear shoulder

Standard

0.0012

Service

0.01 2

limit

to

in

0.0071

(0.3

in

(0.03 to 0.18

mm)

in

(0.03 to 0.18

mm)

in

(0.03 to 0.13

mm)

mm)

Fourth gear shoulder-to-spacer collar

Standard

0.0012

Service

0.01 2

limit

to

in

0.0071

(0.3

mm)

gear shoulder-to-spacer collar Standard

0.0012 toO.0051

Service

0.01

Fifth

Mainshaft

limit

ball

bearing-to-spacer w^asher

in

(0.25

0.0 to 0.004

mm) in

(0.0 to 0.1

mm)

Replacement washers

A B

C D E

0.074

to

0.075

in (1

.88 to

1

.92

mm)

0.076 to 0.078 in (1 .94 to 1 .98 mm) 0.079 to 0.080 in (2.00 to 2.04 mm) 0.081 to 0.082 in (2.06 to 2.10 mm) 0.083 to 0.085 in (2.12 to 2.16 mm)

.

Chapter 7 Part A

161

Manual transaxle

Outside diameter Standard At point At point At point

Service

A B C

1

.0238

to

1

.0243

in

(26.004 to 26.01 7

1

.2592

to

1

.2598

in

(31 .984 to

0.9835

to

0.9840

in

mm)

32.00 mm) (24.980 to 24.993 mm)

limit

At point

A

At point

B C

At point

mm) mm) mm)

1

.022

in

(25.95

1

.257

in

(31 .93

0.98

in

(24.93

Runout 0.0016 in (0.04 mm) 0.004 in (0.1 mm)

Standard Service

limit

Countershaft End

play

First

gear shoulder-to-thrust washerO.001 to 0.003

0.004 in

(0.03 to 0.08

to

0.014

in

(0.10 to 0.35

mm)

mm)

Replacement washers 0.080 to 0.082 in (2.02 to 2.04 mm) 0.079 to 0.080 in (2.00 to 2.02 mm) 0.078 to 0.079 in (1 .98 to 2.00 mm) 0.077 to 0.078 in (1 .96 to 1 .98 mm)

A B C D Third gear shoulder-to-second gear shoulder

0.0012 to 0.004 in (0.03 0.007 in (0.18 mm)

Standard Service

limit

to 0.1

mm)

Countershaft outside diameter

Standard

A B

1.2992 to 1.2998 1 .3380 to 1 .3386 0.9835 to 0.9840

C Service

in

(33.000 to 33.015

in

(33.984 to 34.000 (24.980 to 24.993

in

mm) mm) mm)

limit

mm) mm) (24.93 mm)

A

1

.297

in

(32.95

B

1

.336

in

(33.93

C

0.981

Gearshift

in

mechanism

Selector arm collar-to-shim

'

0.0004

to

0.008

in

(0.01 to 0.2

mm)

Available shims

A

0.031

in

B

0.039 0.047 0.055 0.063

in (1 .0

C D E Shift arm-to-shift

Shift

in (1 .4 in (1 .6

0.004 to 0.012 in (0.1 to 0.3 0.024 in (0.6 mm) 0.311 to 0.315 in (7.9 to 8.0

limit

guide

in (1 .2

mm) mm) mm) mm) mm)

guide

Standard Service

(0.8

slot

mm) mm)

7A

Selector arm-to-interlock

Standard Service

limit

Selector arm finger gap Shift arm-to-shift rod

guide

Standard Service Slot

limit

in shift

0.002 to 0.010 in (0.05 to 0.25 mm) 0.03 in (0.7 mm) 0.396 to 0.400 in (10.05 to 10.15 mm)

rod guide

0.002 to 0.010 in (0.05 to 0.25 0.03 in (0.5 mm) 0.469 to 0.472 in (1 1 .9 to 1 2.0

mm) mm)

Selector arm-to-shift rod guide

Standard Service

limit

Tab on selector arm

0.002 to 0.01 in (0.05 to 0.25 mm) 0.002 in (0.05 mm) 0.469 to 0.472 in (11.9 to 12.0 mm)

Gear thicknesses Second gear Standard

1

Service

1.192

limit

.198 to in

1

.200

(30.3

in

(30.42 to 30.47

mm)

mm)

Third gear

1979 through 1985 Standard Service

limit

1.158 to 1.160 5

in

(29.3

.

Standard

1

.237 to

1

Service

1

.232

(31 .30

1

in

(29.42 to 29.47

mm)

.42 to 31 .47

mm)

mm)

1

1986 and 1987 limit

in

.239

in (31

mm)

162

Chapter 7 Part

A

Manual transaxle

Gear thicknesses (continued) 1988 on Standard

1

.267 to

Service

1

.28

limit

in

1

.278

(32.42 to 32.47

in

mm)

mm)

(32.48

Fourth gear

1979 through 1986 Standard

1.158

Service

1.15

limit

to

in

1.160

(29.3

1987 on Standard

1

.237 to

Service

1

.232

1

.06 to

1

1

.06

(26.8

limit

gear 1979 through 1986 Standard

in

1

in

(29.42 to 29.47

mm)

(31 .42 to 31 .47

mm)

mm)

.239

in

mm)

(31 .30

Fifth

Service

limit

in

.062

in

1987 on Standard

1

.276 to

1

Service

1

.272

(32.30

limit

Torque specifications Lubricant

filler

shift

front

guide

in

(32.42 to 32.47

mm)

mm)

16

mounting

7

bolt

Mainshaft locknut (left-hand thread) Countershaft locknut Shift rod

.239

33 29

rod fork bolt

Torque rod

mm)

Ft-ibs

plug

Drain plug

Gear

in

(26.92 to 26.97

mm)

65 65 22

bolt

Shift rod holder bolts

13

Mainshaft bearing retainer bolt Backup light switch

21

Transaxle-to-clutch housing bolts

21

18

Detent ball retaining screws Transaxle end cover bolts Differential ring gear bolts (left-hand thread)

16 9

,

76

7

General information

Install

the driveaxle(s).

Be

careful not to

damage

the

lip

of the

new

seal.

The speedometer cable and driven gear housing is located on the transaxle housing. Look for lubricant around the cable housing to deter8

The vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with either a fivespeed manual transaxle or a four-speed automatic transaxle. Information on the manual transaxle is included in this Part of Chapter 7. Service procedures

automatic transaxle are contained in Chapter 7, Part B. is a compact, two piece, lightweight aluminum alloy housing containing both the transmission and differential assemfor the

The manual transaxle

blies.

2

1

Oil seal

Oil leaks frequently

is

1

if

the

O

ring is leaking.

Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transaxle. Using a hook, remove the seal. Using a small socket as a drift, install the new seal.

12 Install a new 0-ring on the driven gear housing and speedometer cable assembly.

reinstall the

replacement

occur due to wear of the driveaxle oil seals, and/or

the speedometer drive gear

seals

mine 9 10

oil

seal

and 0-ring. Replacement of these can usually be preformed without

relatively easy, since the repairs

removing the transaxle from the vehicle. 2

The driveaxle oil seals are located at the sides of the transaxle, where

the driveaxles are attached.

If

leakage

at the seal is

suspected, raise the

and support securely on jackstands. the seal cant will be found on the sides of the transaxle. Refer to Chapter 8 and remove the driveaxles. 3 vehicle

4

it

If

Using screwdriver or pry

is

leaking, lubri-

bar. carefully pry the oil seal out of the trans-

axle bore.

5

oil seal cannot be removed with a screwdriver or pry bar, a speseal removal tool (available at auto parts stores) will be required. Using a large section of pipe or a large deep socket as a dnft, install If

the

cial oil

6 the

new

oil

seal. Drive

pletely seated.

it

into the

bore squarely and

make

sure

its

com-

Pry on the transaxle mount to check for

movement

Chapter 7 Part A

163

Manual transaxle SHtFT

KNOB

SMIfT LEVER BOOT

Shift linkage

4.1

components -

exploded view

GEARSHIFT LEVER

g-^

^ifxm

BALL SEAT WASHER

LOCKWASHER OUST COVER

TORQUE ROD

CLEVIS BOLT

3

Transaxle mount - check and replacement

Refer 1

axle

2

5

between the mount and the trans-

and pry up (see illustration). The transaxle should not move more than about If it

1

/2 to 3/4-inch

away

does, replace the mount.

To replace the mount, support the transaxle with a jack, remove the nuts and bolts and remove the mount. It may be necessary to raise the transaxle slightly to provide enough clearance to remove the mount.

1

2 3

4 5

3

4

Installation

is

installation

Removal

to illustration 3.

Insert a large screwdriver or prybar

from the mount.

Manual transaxle - removal and

the reverse of removal.

7A

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Drain the transaxle lubricant (see Chapter 1 ). Disconnect the shift and clutch linkage from the transaxle. Detach the speedometer cable and wire harness connectors from the

transaxle.

6

Remove

the exhaust system

components as necessary

for clear-

ance.

Support the engine. This can be done from above with an engine by placing a jack (with a block of wood as an insulator) under the engine oil pan. The engine must remain supported at all times while the 7

hoist, or

transaxle

8 4

Shift

assembly - removal and

Installation

1

to illustration 4.

i

From under the vehicle, remove the retaining bolts from the ends and lower the shift rod and torque rod from the vehicle (see illustration). 2 Inside the vehicle, remove the shift knob, console and shift lever boot. 3 Also from inside the vehicle, remove the screws from the shift lever plate and lift the gear shift lever assembly out. 4 Installation is the reverse of removal. Prior to installation, lubricate the 1

contact surfaces of the assembly with general purpose grease.

out of the vehicle!

chassis or suspension components that

will

interfere

with transaxle removal (see Chapter 10).

9

Refer

is

Remove any

Disconnect the dnveaxles from the transaxle (see Chapter 8). Support the transaxle with a jack, then remove the bolts securing the

transaxle to the engine. 11

Remove

the transaxle 1 1

mount nuts and

bolts.

Remove the starter (see Chapter 5). Make a final check that all wires and hoses have been disconnected

from the transaxle. then carefully pull the transaxle and jack away from the engine.

14

Once

the input shaft

is

clear,

lower the transaxle and remove

it

164

Chapter 7 Part

from under the vehicle. Caution: Do not depress the clutch pedal while the transaxle is out of the vehicle. With the transaxle removed, the clutch components are now ac1 5 cessible and can be inspected. In most cases, new clutch components should be routinely installed when the transaxle is removed.

A

Manual transaxle ding the exhaust system components. 24 Make a final check that all wires, hoses, linkages and the speedometer cable have been connected and that the transaxle has been filled with lubricant to the proper level (see Chapter 1). 25 Connect the negative battery cable. Road test the vehicle for proper operation and check for leaks.

Installation

16 If removed, install the clutch components (see Chapter 8). 17 With the transaxle secured to the jack with a chain, raise it into position behind the engine, then carefully slide it forward, engaging the input shaft with the clutch plate hub splines. Do not use excessive force to install the transaxle — if the input shaft does not slide into place, readjust the angle of the transaxle so

input shaft so 18 Install the 19 Install the 20 Install the

it

is

level and/or turn the

the splines engage properly with the clutch plate hub. transaxle-to-engine bolts. Tighten the bolts securely. transaxle mount nuts or bolts.

Chapter 5). 21 Install the chassis and suspension components which were removed. Tighten all nuts and bolts securely. 22 Remove the jacks supporting the transaxle and engine. 23 Install the various items removed previously, referring to Chapter 8 for installation of the driveaxles and Chapter 4 for information regarstarter (see

6

Manual transaxle

—

overhaul

Disassembly Transaxle and clutch housings Refer to illustrations 6.3, 6.1 2. 6.16 and 6.18 Before starting to disassemble the transaxle, clean the exterior with 1 water soluble degreaser. This will make it easier to handle and will reduce the possibility of getting dirt and other contaminants inside the a

transaxle.

2 3

4

Place the transaxle on a workbench. Remove the end cover (see illustration). Measure the end play between the spacer collar and the

Transaxle housing components

/

End cover

2 Gasket 3 Locknut (left-hand thread) 4 Spring washer 5 Fifth gear synchro sleeve 6 Fifth gear shift fork 7

8

Spring pin

Fifth gear synchro hub 9 Synchro spring 10 Fifth gear synchro ring

Fifth gear mainshaft 1 12 Needle bearing 13 Spacer collar 14 Retaining screw

5 Washer 1 6 Spring 1 7 Washer 1

18 Roller bearing 19 Bearing outer race 20 Snap-ring (60 mm) 21 Locknut

22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32

—

exploded view

Spring washer Countershaft fifth gear Drain plug

Washer Ball bearing Oil seal Oil

filler

plug

Washer (20 mm) Transaxle housing

Gasket

Snap -ring

fifth

gear

A

Chapter 7 Part shoulder on both the main and countershafts, as a reference for

the side of the transaxle housing. 12 Remove the backup light switch (see Illustration). 13 Remove the bolts securing the transaxle housing to the clutch housing. 1 4 A special housing puller is required (available from a Honda dealer) for separating the two housings. If this is not available, gently tap the transaxle housing using a soft-faced hammer, until the housings separate. Do not attempt to pry them apart, because the faces of the aluminum housings are easily damaged. If they are damaged, lubricant leaks will result. Lift off the transaxle housing from the clutch housing. The main1 5 shaft bearing will remain on the shaft and the countershaft bearing will remain in the housing. 1 6 Using feeler gauges, measure the clearance between the fifth/reverse shift shaft pin and the reverse shift fork, comparing the

reassembly (see illustration 6.3). Bend back the locking tabs on the locknuts of both shafts. 5 Before the nuts can be removed, the gears will have to be locked 6 in position. One method is to remove the spring roll pin from the fifth gear shift fork and shaft, select a gear other than fifth, then select fifth gear. This will lock the gears.

7

Remove

the locknuts, noting the mainshaft locknut has a left-hand

thread.

8

165

Manual transaxle

not already done, drive out the spring pin securing the fifth gear the shift shaft. Remove the shift fork, mainshaft fifth gear, synchronizer sleeve, 9 hub, ring and spring washer as one unit. 10 Remove the countershaft fifth gear. 1 Remove the three retaining screws, springs and detent balls from If

shift fork to

7A

6.12

Clutch housing components

exploded view

33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41

42

Oil seal

Boot

45 Mainshaft

bearing and bearing retainer plate

Shift rod

Do wel

pin

46

Oil seal

Oil barrier plate

47

Shift guide shaft

Countershaft bearing Bearing retainer plate Countershaft assembly

48 49 50

Interlock

51

Reverse

52

Fifth

53 54

gearshift shaft Shift arm holder Shift rod guide

Differential

First

assembly

and second

gearshift shaft

43 Mainshaft 44 Third and fourth gearshift shaft

Shift guide Fie verse idler

idler

gear shaft gear

and reverse

55 56 57 58 59 60 6

J

62 63 64 65 66

Washer Bolt

Backup light switch Washer Differential bearing

Magnet holder Magnet Detent

ball

Spring Spring collar Clutch housing Breather chamber plate

166

A

Chapter 7 Part

Manual transaxle

REVERSE

FIFTH /REVERSE SHIFT SHAFT

SHIFT FORK

REVERSE/IDLER

GEAR

REVERSE SHIFT

FORK

6.18

Measuring the clearance between the reverse/idler gear and the reverse shift fork

6.16 Use a feeler gauge to measure the clearance between the fifth/reverse shift shaft pin and the reverse shift fork

24

the third/fourth and first/second gear shift shafts up to shift and second. 25 Remove the fifth and reverse shift shaft by pulling it up, while at Pull

into fourth

results with the specifications (see illustration). If the specifications are exceeded, measure the width of the slot the reverse shift fork. 18 Measure the clearance between the reverse/idler gear and the reverse shift fork (see illustration). 1 9 If the specifications are exceeded, pull out the reverse collar and its shaft and measure the distance between the fingers on the reverse

1

7

in

same time lifting the reverse shift fork. 26 Tilt the interlock and shift guide to the side, then lift them out. 27 The mainshaft and countershaft, together with first/second and

the

third/fourth shift shafts,

may now be

lifted

out as an assembly.

Mainshaft Refer to illustration 6.30

shift fork.

20 Replace any worn

parts so that tolerances are maintained.

Place the transaxle in Neutral. 22 Remove the mainshaft bearing retainer plate and pull out the shift guide shaft (see illustration 6.12). 23 If still in place, pull out the reverse idler gear and shaft.

21

SYNCHRO

SYNCHRO

SLEEVE

RING

28 Before disassembling the mainshaft, measure the end play of the in Steps 70 through 79. 29 Replace any worn components. 30 Slide each component off the shaft, removing the snap-rings as

gears, as described

necessary (see

illustration).

SYNCHRO SYNCHRO NEEDLE BEARING RING\ HUB, FIFTH \ SYNCHRO MAINSHAFT NEEDLE BEARING GEAR \ \ SPRING \

SYNCHRO HUB

LOCKNUT

SYNCHRO SPRING

ASSEMBLED MAINSHAFT SPACER WASHER

6.30

Mainshaft components

—

exploded view

Chapter 7 Part

A

167

Manual transaxle FIFTH

FOURTH

SPACER COLLAR

SYNCRO RING

REVERSE GEAR SYNCRO SLEEVE

SYNCRO HUB

SECOND GEAR

/

^^f^^

LOCKNUT

'^^^^

THIRD

GEAR

/

1

|

_

^/^^

SYNCRO SPRING

SPRING WASHER

NEEDLE BEARING

6.32

Countershaft components

order, taking care not to

Countershaft

Refer to illustrations 6.35 and 6.37

32 Disassemble the countershaft

(see illustration)

in

the

same man-

ner as the mainshaft. 33 Measure the end play tolerances as described in Steps 91 through 93. Do not mix any components from the mainshaft and

countershaft assemblies.

Inspection (mainshaft

and countershaft components)

Note: Before inspecting any components, be sure to wasti them in solvent and dry them thoroughly. Keep all components in their relative

INSPECT FDR

nents.

Mainshaft 34 With all the components removed from the shaft and cleaned, inspect the shaft splines and gear teeth for wear, cracks, pitting and chipping.

35 Make sure the

6.35

oil

passageways

are clean and free from restrictions

(see illustration). 36 The outside diameter of the shaft should be measured at points A, B and C (see illustration 6.35) to detect any radial wear. 37 The shaft should also be checked for runout with a dial indicator (see illustration). 38 Shafts which exceed the wear or runout limits should be replaced with new ones.

in

the specifications

ROTATE TWO COMPLETE RE^LUTONS

WEAR

OR DAMAGE

INSPECT OIL PASSAGES FOR RESTRICTIONS

exploded view

mix the mainshaft and countershaft compo-

31 Keep each component in its relative position (so they can be reassembled identically) and inspect each component, as described in Steps 34 through 38.

Refer to Illustration 6.32

—

INSPECT FOR WEAR OR DAMAGE

Inspect the mainshaft for damage and measure wear at the points shown

it

for

SUPPORT WITH UTHE TYPE TOOL OR V- BLOCKS 6.37

shown —

Check the mainshaft for runout at the point it two complete revolutions to be sure of

rotate

an accurate reading

7A

168

Chapter 7 Part

A Manual

Countershaft

47

Refer to illustrations 6.39a and 6.39b

it

transaxle

each synchronizer ring on its matching gear cone and rotate stops (approximately 1 to 20°), then measure the clearance feeler gauges (see illustration 6.41 ).

Install

until

it

between the ring and gear with Compare the clearances to the

39 Inspect the countershaft (see illustrations) in the same manner as the mainshaft. 40 Any shaft which exceeds the wear or runout limits in specifications should be replaced with new ones.

48 Replace any syncronizer 49 Remove the ring from the ble,

using a

new

specifications.

rings

worn beyond the

gear, coat

all

parts with

specifications. oil

and reassem-

synchronizer spring.

Gears and synchronizer rings Refer to illustration 6.41 Inspect each gear and synchronizer ring assembly (see illustration) as described in the following Steps. 42 Inspect the inside of the synchronizer ring for wear. 43 Inspect the teeth on both the synchronizer ring and gear for wear. 44 Inspect the thrust surface on the gear hub for wear. 45 Inspect the cone surface on first and second countershaft gears and third, fourth and fifth mainshaft gears for wear. 46 Inspect the gear teeth for uneven wear, scoring, cracks and chip-

41

Synchronizer sleeve and hub Refer to illustrations 6.50 and 6.53

50 Measure the clearance between the

ping.

INSPECT OIL PASSAGES FOR RESTRICTIONS

6.39a

fingers of each shift fork and

synchronizer sleeve using feeler gauges. Compare each measurement with the specifications (see illustration). 51 If worn beyond the service limits, replace the synchronizer sleeve with a new one. 52 Note that the tolerances are the same for all three synchronizer its

RCfTATE

TWO COMPLETE

REVOLUTIONS

Inspect the countershaft for damage and measure for wear at the points shown

it

SUPPORT WITH LATHE TYPE TOOL

OR V-BLOCKS SYNCHRONIZER RING

SYNCHRONIZER SPRING 6.39b

/

point

Check the countershaft for runout at the rotate it two complete revolutions

shown —

to be sure of an accurate reading

SYNCHRONIZER RING

SYNCHRONIZER SLEEVE

GEAR SHIFT FORK

RING TO GEAR CLEARANCE Check the gear and synchronizer ring for wear at the indicated points (arrows) — check syncronizer ring-to-gear clearance with feeler gauges at the point shown

6.41

Check the shift fork-to-synchronizor sleeve clearance with a feeler gauge

6.50

Chapter 7 Part

A

169

Manual transaxle

HIGHER TEETH

SYNCHRONIZER SLEEVE

SYNCHRONIZER

HUB 6.53

Check the synchronizer sleeve and hub the points

for

wear

6.58

at

Measure the gear thickness

shown

at this point

Gears sleeves.

Refer to illustration 6.58

53 Inspect each hub and sleeve for wear (see illustration). Replace worn components with new ones as necessary. 54 Install the synchronizer sleeve onto its hub and check for freedom of movement.

58 Measure the thickness of each gear (see illustration). 59 Replace any gears which are worn beyond limits.

Reassembly Mainshaft

Needle and roller bearings 55 Inspect each bearing for signs

Refer to illustrations 6.61, 6.62. 6.63a. 6.63b. 6.64a. 6.64b. 6.65. 6.66. 6. 70. 6. 73. 6. 76 and 6. 79 of overheating, indicated by bluing

60

Refer to illustration 6.30 during reassembly to ensure all comin their correct order. install the mainshaft ball bearing, spacer washer and snap-ring (see

ponents are replaced

or discoloration.

56 Excessive wear in the bearings is indicated by a rattling noise when the bearing is shaken. 57 Although the three needle bearing assemblies are identical, they should be reinstalled in their original positions.

61

illustration).

62 63

Slide on the needle bearing (see illustration). Install third gear and its synchro ring and spring (see illustrations).

7A

6.61

Install

the

bearing, spacer

ball

washer and snap-ring

6.62

Slide the needle bearing onto the shaft

on the mainshaft

6.63a

Install third

gear

.

.

.

6.63b

.

.

.

and

its

synchro

ring

and spring

170

Chapter 7 Part

6.64a

Install

6.64b

the synchro hub

A

Manual transaxle

and

its

64 65

sleeve

6.65 Slide fourth gear, its needle bearing and spacer collar onto the shaft

the synchronizer hub and sleeve (see illustrations). the remaining synchronizer ring and spring, then slide on fourth gear, the needle roller bearing, and the spacer collar (see Install Install

illustration).

66 Install the mainshaft roller bearing (see illustration). 67 The remaining components are installed after the main and countershaft assemblies are installed

in

the transaxle housing.

68 However, to establish correct clearances, you must install the remaining components on the mainshaft and tighten the locknut to the specified torque. Do not over torque or incorrect clearances may result. 69 Now carry out the following clearance checks, cornparing your results with the specifications.

70 IVIeasure the clearance between the shoulder on third gear and the shoulder on second gear (see illustration). 71 If out of limits, measure the thickness of third gear, and replace as necessary. 72 If third gear thickness is within limits, install a new synchronizer hub. 73 Measure the clearance between the spacer collar and the shoulder on fourth gear (see illustration). 74 If the fourth gear-to-spacer collar is out of limits, measure the thickness of fourth gear and replace it with a new one if necessary. 75 If fourth gear thickness is within limits, install a new synchronizer hub. '

6.66

6.70

Install

Measure the

third

the

roller

bearing

gear clearance at this point

6.73

Measure fourth gear clearance

at this point

Chapter 7 Part

Measure

6.76

fifth

A

171

Manual transaxle

gear clearance at this point

76 Measure the clearance between the spacer

collar and the shoulder gear (see illustration). 77 If out of limits, measure the thickness of fifth gear. 78 If fifth gear thickness is less than specified, replace fifth gear. 79 Measure the clearance between the spacer washer and the mainshaft ball-bearing (see Illustration). If out of tolerance, install a new spacer washer of suitable thickness. Refer to the Specifications Sec-

on

fifth

tion for available sizes.

Countershaft

6.79

Use

ball

on the needle bearing (see Illustration). followed by its synchro ring and spring (see

81

Slide

82

Install first gear,

illustrations).

83

6.87a and 6.87b

illustration).

Install

gauge to measure the mainshaft bearing clearance

Refer to illustrations 6.80, 6.81, 6.82a, 6.82b, '6.83, 6.84, 6.85, 6.86,

80

a feeler

the thrust washer on the countershaft (see illustration).

84

Install

the synchro hub and reverse gear synchro sleeve (see

Slide the needle roller bearing onto the shaft (see Illustration).

7A

6.80

6.82b

the thrust washer on the countershaft

Install

.

.

and its synchro and spring .

ring

6.81

Slide the roller bearing against

6.82a

Install first

gear

the thrust washer

6.83

the synchro hub and reverse gear

Install

6.84

Slide the needle bearing onto

the shaft

172

6.85

Chapter 7 Part

The synchro fit

ring

Install

6.86

Manual transaxle

then

Slide the spacer collar onto the shaft .

fit

the gear over

.

.

it

6.96 Here's where the countershaft bearing and mainshaft oil seal are located in the clutch housing

the synchro spring, synchro ring and second gear (see

illustration).

86 Install third gear (see illustration). 87 Slide on the spacer collar and fourth gear (see illustrations). 88 The remaining components are installed after the mainshaft and countershaft are installed in the transaxle housing. 89 However, as with the mainshaft, these components must be assembled on the shaft and the locknut installed and tightened to the specified torque to carry out the following measurements. Do not over torque the locknut or incorrect tolerances may result. 90 Refer to illustration 6.32 and the specifications when making these checks. 91 Measure the clearance between the first gear thrust washer and the shoulder on first gear, installing the proper thickness thrust washer as necessary if the tolerances cannot be met. 92 Measure the clearance between the shoulder on third gear and the shoulder on second gear. 93 If the clearance is out of limits, measure the thickness of second gear, replacing second gear if the thickness is below specification. 94 After all clearances have been checked and brought into limits, reassemble both main and countershafts and recheck all clearances. 95 Once all clearances are correct, remove the fifth gear components and reinstall the bearings in the transaxle housing.

Clutch housing bearing and seal Refer to illustration 6.96

96

6.87a

Third gear installation

over the bearing

6.87b

85

and second gear

A

Refer to the accompanying illustration for the countershaft bearoil seal installation details in the clutch housing (see

ing and mainshaft illustration).

97 To remove the bearing, first remove the bearing retainer plate. Note that the two securing screws are center punched to lock them, so an

/

Mainshaft

oil

seal

3 Oil guide plate 4 Bearing retainer plate

2 Bearing

may be needed to remove them. Don't forget to center punch the screws and the retaining plate when reinstalling. 98 Pull the bearing from the housing, then lift out the plastic oil guide impact driver

plate. oil guide plate, wash the bearing in solvent and dry it thouroughly. 100 Inspect the bearing for signs of wear, discoloration due to overheating and cracking or scoring of the rollers. 101 Reinstall the plastic oil guide plate. 1 02 To reinstall the bearing, first liberally coat it with clean engine oil. Then, with a block of wood positioned under the housing, use a hammer and a socket or a piece of pipe of the same diameter as the bearing to drive the bearing all the way into the housing bore. 103 Reinstall the bearing retainer plate and center punch the screws to the plate. 104 Pry out the mainshaft oil seal using a screwdriver, being careful not to damage the housing. 105 The lips on the new oil seal must face toward the bearing. 106 Coat the seal with clean engine oil and, again using a socket or piece of pipe of the same diameter as the seal, gently tap the seal into the housing. Take care to install the seal squarely.

99 Clean out the bearing housing and the

Transaxle housing bearing and seal Refer to illustrations 1

07 Refer

to the

6.

107,

6.

accompanying

108.

6.

1

10 and 6.111

illustration for details of the counter-

Chapter 7 Part

A

173

Manual transaxle COUNTERSHAFT BALL BEARING

SNAP-RING

SNAP-RING

Here's where the countershaft ball bearing and mainshaft bearing outer race are located in the transaxle housing

6.107

1

MAINSHAFT BEARING OUTER RACE

6.108 Snap-ring pliers are required when removing the countershaft ball bearing and mainshaft bearing outer race from the mainshaft

Ball bearing

2 Mainshaft bearing outer race

SNAP-RING

GROOVE

\^\u,^-h'^

6.110

The groove

in the ball bearing the snap-ring

must engage

shaft ball bearing and the mainshaft bearing outer race installation in the transaxle housing. 108 Both components are held in place by snap-rings and are removed by first expanding the snap-rings using snap-ring pliers, then lifting out the component (see Illustration). 109 Do not expand the snap-rings any more than is necessary to remove the bearings, and avoid damaging the housing during this operation. 1 10 To install the components, place them in position, expand the snap-rings so the bearings can enter the housings, then push the bearings down by hand, feeling for the click indicating the snap-ring has snapped into the groove on the bearing (see illustration). The bearing is installed with the part number facing out. 111 As a check that the snap-ring is positioned correctly, measure dimension A (see illustration) and compare it to the specification. 1 1 2 If dimension A is not within specification, either reseat the bearing and snap-ring or replace the snap-ring.

Differential

oil

6.111 Dimension A must be correct for the transaxle housing bearing to be seated securely (refer to the specifications for the correct dimension)

seals

Refer to illustration 6.1

3 To replace the

1

oil seals, the transaxle components and assembly must first be removed from the transaxle housings (differential removal begins at Step 121). 114 Both seals should be replaced whenever the transaxle assembly 1 1

differential

differential

is

disassembled.

5 To remove the seal in the clutch housing, use a hammer and a socket or piece of pipe to drive the seal from the housing. 1 1 6 Similarly, drive out the seal from the transaxle housing, but first 1 1

remove the snap-ring (see

illustration).

6.116

The

differential

oil

seal

is

retained

by a snap-ring (arrow)

in

the housing

7A

174 BALL BEARING

PINION

THRUST WASHER

CAUTION- LEFT

GEAR

HAND THREADS

BALL BEARING

TRANSAXLE HOUSING

CLUTCH HOUSING

SEAL

6.121

Differential unit installation details

DIAL INDICATOR

GEARS

6.122

Differential backlash

measurement

details

6.123

Check the

differential at points

A and

B

Chapter 7 Part

A

175

Manual transaxle CHAMFER ON INSIDE DIAMETER OF RING GEAR FACES CARRiER

SNAP RING

RING GEAR BOLTS TO LEFT HAND SIDE OF CARRIER

To~[ 6.141

6.142

Correct alignment of the differential snap-ring and

Differential ring gear installation details

spring pin

REVERSE SHIFT FORK SHIFT

ARM

COLLAR

ARM HOLDER

SHIFT

6.144

Shift

arm and holder assembly

—

SPRING PIN

exploded view

117 Installation is the reverse of removal, but note the following. 118 The transaxle housing oil seal is installed with its part number side facing

away from

119 The

the snap-ring. clutch housing seal is installed with the part

away from the bearing. 1 20 If the differential bearings

number

side fac-

replacing any that are defective.

ing

was replaced, a snap-ring of suitable thickness to give the correct clearance between the snap-ring and the bearing outer race

Differential

or carrier

will

have to be selected and

installed.

6.

121,

6.

122,

6.

123,

6.

141 and

6.

142

1 21 The differential assembly will have already been lifted out of the transaxle housing, together with the transmission gears, shafts and

shift 1

mechanism (see

132 Coat all gears with moly-based grease before reassembly. 133 Place the side gears in the carrier. 1 34 Position the pinion gears in place, exactly opposite each other and in mesh with the side gears, then install a thrust washer of selected thickness behind each gear. Remember, the thrust washers must be of equal thickness.

assembly

Refer to illustrations

the ring gear, then inspect the teeth for wear and damage. 130 Remove the pinion shaft spring pin with a pin punch and hammer, then remove the pinion shaft, pinion gears and thrust washers. 1 31 Inspect all parts for wear, scoring, overheating, burrs and damage,

illustration).

22 Before proceeding any further with disassembly, the backlash

in

the pinion gears should be checked, as shown (see illustration). 1 23 Backlash can be brought within limits by installing thicker thrust washers behind the pinion gears (see illustration). 124 The thrust washers on each side should be of equal thickness. Refer to the specifications for thrust washer sizes and backlash tolerances. 1 25 If the backlash cannot be brought within specification by installing thicker thrust washers, the differential will have to be completely dismantled and inspected, as described in the following paragraphs. At this point, consider obtaining a new or rebuilt unit. 126 Inspect the ball bearings (see illustration 6.121) for wear, discoloration due to overheating and roughness during rotation. 1 27 If the ball bearings are in reasonable condition and backlash is not excessive, the unit may be reinstalled. If further disassembly is necessary, proceed as follows. 128 Use a bearing puller to remove the two ball bearings. 1 29 The ring gear bolts have left-handed threads. Remove these and

1 35 Rotate the gears until the shaft holes in the pinion gears line up with those on the carrier. 1 36 Insert the pinion shaft, lining up the spring pin hole with the hole in the carrier. 137 Install a new spring pin, using a punch and hammer. 138 Check the backlash of both pinion gears, as described above. 139 If the tolerances cannot be met using thicker washers, replace the pinion gears, and, if this fails, replace the side gears. 140 If backlash is still excessive, replace the entire carrier assembly. 141 The snap-ring should be installed so that it covers the spring pin securing the pinion shaft (see illustration). 142 Install the ring gear and tighten the bolts (which have left-hand threads) to the specified torque (see illustratipn). 143 The procedure for reinstalling the differential is in Steps 171 through 1 77.

Gearshift

mechanism

Refer to illustrations 6. 144. 6. 145, 6. 148, 6. 150, 6.161, 6. 162a, 6. 162b, 6. 163a, 6. 163b, 6. 164a, 6. 165, 6.167, 6. 169a and 6. 169b 1

44 The

shift

arm and holder assembly

ing (see Illustration).

is

6.

6.

160a, 164b,

6.

6.

160b, 164c,

bolted into the transaxle hous-

7A

176

Chapter 7 Part

A

Manual transaxle

SHIFT GUIDE SHIFT

ARM HOLDER

SHIFT

ARM

1

SHIFT 6.145

6.148

shift arm holder and collar-to-shim clearance with a feeler gauge

Check the

Measure the

shift

arm-to-guide clearance

146 To remove the selector arm from the holder for shimming, use punch to drive out the spring pin (see illustration 6.144). 147 Use a new spring pin during reassembly. 1 48 Measure the shift arm-to-shift guide clearance and, if it is greater than specified, measure the width of the slot in the shift guide (see

INTERLOCK SHIFT

ARM

ARM

a pin

illustration).

149 If the slot is wider than specified, replace the shift guide. 1 50 Check the selector arm-to-interlock clearance and, if it is not as specified, measure the gap between the selector arm fingers (see illustration).

151 1 52

specifications cannot be met, replace the selector arm. further disassembly is required, first remove the main and countershaft assemblies, as described earlier in this Section. If If

153 Remove the three bolts and lift out the shift arm holder. 154 Inspect the shift rod for damage. 1 55 To remove the shift rod for further inspection or to replace the shift rod oil seal and rubber boot, remove the shoulder bolt. 1 56 This will release the shift rod guide, and the rod may be pulled from the housing. 1 57 Make sure not to lose the detent

6.150

ball

and spring as the

shift rod

clears the detent hole.

Measure the selector arm-to-interlock clearance

58 Pry out the shift rod oil seal and press in a new oil seal. 59 Remove the old rubber boot from the shift rod, lubricate the inside of the new boot with grease, then install it on the shift rod. 1 60 Remove and clean the magnet and its holder, then reinstall them 1 1

145 Before removing lar

and the shim (see

it,

measure the clearance between the end coland compare your measurement with

illustration)

the specifications. If the clearance is greater than specified, thicker shim. Refer to the Specifications for details.

6.160a

Install

the magnet

install a

6.160b

.

.

.

(see illustrations). 161 Reinstall the shift rod

and secure

the holder

it

with

in

the housing (see Illustration).

6.161

Insert the shift rod

A

Chapter 7 Part

177

Manual transaxle

1 41

\

X 6.162a

6.163b

Install

6.162b

the detent spring

then push the rod through the housing

6.164a

6.163a

followed by the detent ball .

.

.

Install

and

6.164b

the shift rod guide bolt

.

1

.

.

.

.

in its

ball

and

.

then snap the rubber boot .

62 Replace the detent spring

ball 1

Depress the spring,

.

.

housing, followed by the detent

(see illustrations).

63 Depress the

ball

and spring and push the

shift rod into place (see

Illustrations).

64

the shift rod guide and shoulder bolt, then snap the rubber oil seal (see illustrations). 165 Check the clearance between the shift arm and shift rod guide, if it's out of specification, measure the width of the slot in the shift 1

Install

boot over the

rod guide (see illustration). 1 66 If the width of the slot is beyond the service limit, replace the shift rod guide. 167 Check the selector arm-to-shift rod guide clearance and, if the clearance isn't as specified, measure the width of the tab on the selector

6.164c

.

.

.

over the

oil

SHIFT

seal

arm (see illustration). 168 If the width is greater than

specified, replace the arm.

ARM SELECTOR ARM

SHIFT

ROD GUIDE

SHIFT ROD GUIDE 6.165

Measure the clearance between the shift arm and shift rod guide with a feeler gauge

6.167

Measure the selector arm-to-shift rod guide clearance

178

Chapter 7 Part

6.169a

Install

the shift arm holder

assembly

.

.

6.169b

.

A

Manual transaxle

6.176

and secure it with the three bolts (arrows) .

.

.

1

69

Lower the

differential

into the

Reinstall the shift

assembly

housing

arm holder assembly and tighten the three bolts

(see illustrations).

remainder of the selector mechanism 1 70 The reassembly of the transaxle unit. Final transaxle

is

installed during

reassembly

Refer to illustrations 6. 6.

6. 1 76, 6. 1 77a, 6. 177b, 6. 1 78. 6. 181. 6. 183. 185, 6. 187, 6. 188, 6. 189, 6. 191, 6. 192, 6. 193a. 6. 193b. 6. 194, 195a. 6. 195b, 6. 196a, 6. 196b, 6.197, 6. 198, 6.200 and 6.201

171 Make sure the countershaft ball bearing and mainshaft bearing outer race are installed correctly in the transaxle housing. 1 72 Ensure the countershaft roller bearing and mainshaft oil seal are installed correctly in the clutch housing. 1 73 Make sure the shift rod is installed correctly, the magnetic oil filter is installed and the oil-smeared pipe screen is in position. 174 If not already done, install the shift arm holder. 175 Check that the differential oil seals are installed correctly. Re-

now begin. the differential assembly

assembly may 1

76

Install

in

the clutch housing (see

il-

lustration).

6.177a

Lower the main and countershaft assemblies into place

6.177b

until

.

.

.

they are seated

in

the housing

177 Install the main and countershaft assemblies, meshing them together as they go into position (see illustrations). 178 Install the first and second, then the third and fourth gearshift shafts (see illustration). 1 79 The main and countershaft assemblies may have to be lifted up slightly to allow the gearshift shafts to be positioned.

Install the first and second gear shift shaft (1) followed by the third and fourth gear shift shaft (2)

6.178

Chapter 7 Part

6.181

A

Selector installation details

6.183 /

179

Manual transaxle

Interlock

2 Selector arm 3 Shift guide

4 5

Shift Fifth

The

located

arm and reverse

and reverse shift shaft pin should be the reverse shift fork slot (arrow)

fifth in

shift shaft

180 When positioning the gearshift shafts, it may also be helpful to place the shift forks in second and fourth gear. 1 81 Lift the mainshaft and install the interlock in the selector arm (see illustration). 1

82 Return the

selector arm,

then hook the interlock into the and second gearshift shaft and third and fourth gear-

shift rod to Neutral,

first

shift shaft. 1 83 Hook the shift guide into the shift arm, then install the fifth and reverse shift shaft, making sure its pin locates in the reverse shift fork

slot (see Illustration).

84

guide shaft so that it bottoms securely in the clutch housing. 185 The end of the shift guide shaft should not extend more than 1/2-inch (12 mm) above the interlock (see illustration). 1 86 If the guide shaft does extend above the specified distance, check all components for correct assembly. 187 Install the mainshaft bearing retainer plate (see illustration). 188 Install the reverse idler gear and shaft (see illustration). 1 89 Install the backup light switch, using a new washer, and tighten it to the specified torque (see illustration). 1

Finally, install the shift

place

in

6.187

Install

the mainshaft bearing — when tightening

retainer plate (arrow)

the retaining bolts, you must use a twelve-point socket

6.188

6.185

Measure the distance the shift guide shaft extends above the interlock (arrows)

Correct installation of the reverse idler gear and shaft

6.189 into the

Screw the backup ngnt switcn case

—

don't forget the washer!

7A

180

A

Chapter 7 Part

Lower the housing

6.191

into place over the pins (arrows)

6.193a in

6.195a

Place each steel the case .

.

ball

.

the spacer collar onto the mainshaft

Install

.

.

.

Manual transaxle

dowel

6.193b

6.192

.

.

and secure

.

it

with

Tighten the bolts

6.194

its

spring and retaining screw

6.195b

.

6.196a

.

1 90 Place a new gasket in position on the clutch housing and ensure the dowel pins are Installed. 191 Place the transaxle in third gear to position the shift guide shaft correctly for reassembly, then install the transaxle housing, making sure the main and countershafts line up with the bearings, and that the housing locates over the dowel pins (see illustration).

1

92 Tighten the

Install

the countershaft gear

fifth

followed by the needle bearing .

sequence

in this

Install

the

fifth

components

.

gear synchro .

.

retaining bolts to the specified torque, in the

shown

sequence

(see illustration). 193 Install the three detent balls, springs, washers and retaining bolts. Tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque (see illustrations). 1 94 Install the countershaft fifth gear with the high side facing down (see illustration).

Chapter 7 Part

6.196b

.

.

.

and the

6.197

shift fork

A

Install

6.198

the main and

countershaft spring washers and retaining nuts

6.200

Use

a

punch and hammer

6.201

to

95

Install

96

Install

fifth

gear, synchro ring, spring,

hub and sleeve

onto the mainshaft (see illustration). At the same time, install the shift on the sleeve and over the shaft (see illustration). 1 97 Install the spring washers on both the countershaft and mainshaft, concave side facing down, and install the retaining nuts (see illustration).

98

hammer and

new gasket

installing the

a

punch,

spring pin into the fifth gear shift fork

as

shown

end cover

Install a

hammer and punch (see illustration). 99 Keep the transaxle from rotating, then tighten the locknuts on the counter and mainshafts to the specified torques. Back the nuts off, then retighten them to the same torque. 200 Stake the locking collar of the nuts into the slots on the shafts with a

the mainshaft

fork

1

Position a

Using a

new

the spacer collar and needle bearing over the mainshaft (see

illustrations). 1

drive a

when

stake each locking collar

1

181

Manual transaxle

new

spring pin

in

the

fifth

gear shift fork and drive

it

m

1

(see illustration).

201 Set a new end cover gasket in place (see illustration), install the end cover and tighten the retaining nuts to the specified torque.

7A

Chapter 7 Part B

Automatic transaxle

Contents Automatic transaxle fluid change Automatic transaxle fluid level check Automatic transaxle - removal and installation Diagnosis - general General information

See Chapter See Chapter

1

Neutral start switch - check and replacement

1

Oil seal

- check and adjustment

6

Shift linkage

2

Throttle valve (TV) cable

- adjustment Transaxle mount - check and replacement

1

4

See Chapter 7A

replacement

3 5

See Chapter 7A

Specifications

General Throttle valve (TV) cable freeplay at transaxle lever

0.078

Torque specifications

Ft-ibs

Transaxle-to-engine bolts

33 9

Torque converter-to-driveplate bolts

1

General information

to

ual

0.157

in (2 to

4

mm)

Due to the complexity of the automatic transaxles covered tn this manand the need for specialized equipment to perform most service opera-

speed manual transaxle or a three or four-speed automatic transaxle. All information on the automatic transaxle is included in this Part of Chapter 7. Information for the manual transaxle can be found in Part A of this Chap-

Chapter contains only general diagnosis, routine maintenance, adjustment and removal and installation procedures. If the transaxle requires major repair work, it should be left to a dealer service department or an automotive or transmission repair shop. You can, however, remove and install the transaxle yourself and save the ex

ter.

pense, even

tions, this All

vehicles covered

in this

manual come equipped

with either a five-

if

the repair work

is

done by a transmission shop.

I

Chapter 7 Part B

183

Automatic transaxle Gasket leaks

Diagnosis -general

2

Check

14

Note: Automatic transaxle malfunctions may be caused by five general conditions: poor engine performance, improper adjustments, tiydraulic malfunctions, mechanical malfunctions or malfunctions in the computer or its signal network. Diagnosis of these problems should always begin with a check of the easily repaired items: fluid level and condition (Chapter 1), shift linkage adjustment and throttle linkage adjustment. Next, perform a road test to determine if the problem has been corrected or if more diagnosis is necessary.

If

1

and the gasket

the end cover gasket

If

Make

the end cover periodically.

bolts are missing

is

is in

good

sure the bolts are

tight,

no

condition.

leaking, the fluid level or the fluid pressure

may be plugged, the end cover bolts may be too tight, the end cover sealing surface may be warped or damaged, the sealing surface of the transaxle housing may be damaged or the gasket may

may be too high,

the vent

be damaged. If sealant instead of gasket matenal has been used to form a seal between the end cover and the transaxle housing, it may be the wrong sealant.

the problem persists after the preliminary tests and cor-

rections are completed, additional diagnosis should be

done by a dealer

Seal leaks a transaxle seal is leaking, the fluid level or pressure may be too may be plugged, the seal bore may be damaged, the seal

service department or transmission repair shop. Refer to the Trouble-

16

shooting section at the front of this manual for transaxle problem diagno-

high, the vent

If

may be damaged or improperly installed, the surface of the shaft promay be damaged or a loose bearing may be caus-

itself

sis.

truding through the seal

Preliminary checks 1 Drive the vehicle to warm the transaxle to normal operating temperature.

1

Make

pipe

is

movement.

sure the dipstick guide pipe seal

a)

If

fluid level

the fluid level

is

as described

in

Chapter

1

unusually low, add enough

0-ring for fluid to

within the designated area of the dipstick, then

check

for external

_

1

c)

the fluid level

If

is

itself appears to be leaking, the casting is porous and will be repaired or replaced. Make sure the oil cooler hose fittings are tight and in good condition.

1

Fluid 20 the

If

comes out

vent pipe or guide pipe

this condition occurs, the transaxle is overfilled, there is

the case

fluid,

is

porous, the dipstick

normally.

3

4 Check the throttle valve cable for freedom of movement. Adjust it if necessary (Section 5). Note: The throttle valve cable may function properly when the engine is shut off and cold, but it may malfunction once the engine is hot. Check it cold and at normal engine operating temperature.

Refer

3).

Make sure that it's properly

adjusted and that the linkage operates smoothly.

Fluid leak diagnosis 6

Most fluid leaks are easy

replacing a seal or gasket.

If

to locate visually.

a leak

is difficult

Repair usually consists of

to find, the following proce-

dure may help. 7 Identify the fluid. Make sure it's transmission fluid and not engine oil or brake fluid (automatic transmission fluid is a deep red color). Try to pinpoint the source of the leak. Drive the vehicle several miles, 8 then park it over a large sheet of cardboard. After a minute or two, you should be able to locate the leak by determining the source of the fluid drip-

Shift linkage

is

incorrect, the vent

Make a careful visual inspection of the suspected component and the area immediately around it. Pay particular attention to gasket mating surfaces. A mirror is often helpful for finding leaks in areas that are hard to

to illustrations

3.3

the leak

still

1

in each shift lever position; the starter shoula Park and Neutral only. If the starter does not operate in Park or Neutral or operates in any position other than Park or Neutral, the shift linkage is in need of adjustment or the neutral start switch is defective (see

Try to start the engine

operate

in

Section

4).

Adjustment 2

Remove

3

Place the shift lever in

the center console (Chapter 11).

D4 or Reverse and remove the lock pin from the

cable adjuster (see Illustration)

SHIFT CABLE

cannot be found, clean the suspected area thoroughly it.

Drive the vehicle for several miles at normal operating temperature

and varying speeds. After

driving the vehicle, visually inspect the sus-

pected component again. leak has been located, the cause must be determined becan be properly repaired. If a gasket is replaced but the sealing flange is bent, the new gasket will not stop the leak. The bent flange must be straightened. 13 Before attempting to repair a leak, check to make sure that the following conditions are corrected or they may cause another leak. Note: Some of the following conditions cannot be fixed without highly specialized tools and expertise. Such problems must be referred to a transmission shop or a 1

fore

Once the it

dealer service department.

in

Check 1

see. If

coolant

plugged or

and 3.4

9

10

is

-check and adjustment

ping onto the cardboard.

with a degreaser or solvent, then dry

check the

seals for leakage.

oil

to

the drain back holes are plugged.

Inspect the shift control cable (Section

fluid is evident,

shaft

the case

If

have

coolant in the fluid or a high fluid level. Checkthe engine idle speed. Note: If the engine is malfunctioning, do 3 not proceed with the preliminary checks until it has been repaired and runs

5

transmission

damage. Also inspect the side gear

Case leaks 1

abnormally high, drain off the excess, then check the drained fluid for contamination by coolant. The presence of engine coolant in the automatic transmission fluid indicates that a failure has occurred in the internal radiator walls that separate the coolant from the transmission fluid (see Chapter 3). If the fluid is foaming, drain it and refill the transaxle, then check for If

good condition and the speedom-

bring the level

leaks. b)

is in

properly seated. Penodically check the area around the

eter gear or sensor for leakage.

Check the

2

ing excessive shaft

3.3

Shift cable

connection details

184

4

Chapter 7 Part B Check

with hole

to

in

make

sure that the hole

in

the adjuster

is

perfectly aligned

the shift cable (see illustration). There are two holes

end of the shift cable, positioned 90-degrees apart, allowing cable ment in 1/4-turn increments. 5

If

the

adjust-

adjuster

is

until

the hole

in

the

perfectly aligned with the hole in the shift cable.

Tighten the locknut and

install

the lock pin.

If

the pin when you

problem

install

it,

persists,

check the Neutral

incorporates the backup

2 tor

the cable holes are not aligned perfectly, loosen the locknut on the

adjuster (see illustration 3.3) and turn the adjuster

6

in

Automatic transaxle start

switch which, on these models,

switch as well.

Remove the center console (see Chapter 1 1 and unplug the connecfrom the Neutral start switch. Check the connector for continuity with )

the shift lever

3

light

If

in

each position (see

the continuity

is

illustration).

not as specified, replace the switch.

Do

this

readjust the cable.

Try to start the engine in each 7 operate in Park and Neutral only.

8

4

shift lever position;

Reinstall the center console (see

Neutral start switch

Chapter

the starter should

GREEN/ RED GREEN/WHITE

11).

^_,

- check and replacement

,

BLACK/WHITE

r-^^i—- GREEN/ Refer 1

to illustrations

4.2

operate

in

Black

and 4.3

Try to start the engine

in

Park and Neutral

each

only.

If

shift lever position;

the starter should

GREEN/

the starter does not operate, or oper-

BLUE

any position other than Park or Neutral, first check the shift linkage adjustment (see Section 3). If the shift linkage is properly adjusted and the ates

in

EXACT ALIGNMENT

CABLE TOO LONG

WIRE

CaOR

GREEN/ BLUE

CABLE TOO SHORT

ADJUSTER' 3.4

The in

SHIFT

CABLE

cable is properly adjusted when the holes the adjuster and shift cable are lined up

shift

ACTUATOR PIN

NEUTRAL/BACK-UP SWITCH To install the Neutral start/backup switch, position the switch slider as shown, place the switch over the

4.3

actuator pin and install the retaining bolts

by

re-

moving the two retaining bolts and detaching the switch from the gearshift selector mounting bracket (see illustration).

2

03

DA

N

R

P

Chapter 7 Part B

185

Automatic transaxle

5.2 TV cable details - to remove the cable, loosen locknut B, slide the TV cable out of the bracket, then slide the TV cable end out of the TV control lever

TV control lever TV cable end Locknut B

1

2 3

4 in

5.5

4

Locknut A

5 6

TV cable bracket TV cable

When installing the new switch, place the switch slider and shift lever

3

Drain the transaxle

place over the actuator pin and tighten the

4

Remove

Neutral, place the switch

in

bolts securely (see illustration 4.3).

Throttle Valve (TV) cable - adjustment

5

Refer

to illustrations

5.2

and 5.5

Note: You need a special tool to adjust the TV cable bracket on carbureted models, so TV cable adjustment on carbureted models is best left to a dealer sen/ice department or a repair shop. 1

Before beginning

this

procedure, the engine must be at normal opermust come on at least twice), the idle

ating temperature (the cooling fan

speed must be correct (see Chapter 1 and the throttle cable must be properly adjusted (see Chapter 4). Loosen locknuts A and B on the TV cable at the bracket (see illustra2 )

tion)

Push down on the TV cable lever on the transaxle. hold it down and check the TV cable free play at the fuel injection unit throttle link. If there is any free play, remove it by turning locknut A until none can be felt at the 3

throttle link.

the

TV

throttle link at the fuel injection unit.

The

throttle link

Continue

to the

press

cable lever and

free play at the transaxle lever (see illustration).

Automatic transaxle - removal and installation

1

Remove Remove

20

Lower the transaxle

to the floor If

it's

not as

21 pins

1 ).

the bolts securing the transaxle to the engine. the transaxle

mount nuts and bolts (see Chapter 7A). and disconnect and plug the transaxle

slightly

Move the transaxle back to disengage from the engine block dowel and make sure the torque converter is detached from the driveplate. it

Secure the torque converter to the transaxle so moval. Lower the transaxle from the vehicle.

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

it

will

not fall out during re-

Installation Prior to installation,

engaged

Removal 2

(see Chapter

the torque converter cover.

with transaxle removal.

22

1

fluid

shown

cooler lines. it

specified, readjust the cable.

6

on the

and TV cable lever

should move at precisely the same time. 5 Have an assistant depress the throttle pedal and hold

Check the

pull

lever free play at the point

Mark the torque converter and the driveplate with white paint so they 5 can be installed in the same relative position. 6 Remove the eight torque converter-to-driveplate bolts. Turn the crankshaft pulley bolt for access to each bolt. 7 Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 5). Disconnect the driveaxles from the transaxle (see Chapter 8). 8 Disconnect the speedometer cable. 9 1 Disconnect the wire harness from the transaxle. 11 On models so equipped, disconnect the vacuum hose(s). 1 Remove any exhaust components which will interfere with transaxle removal (see Chapter 4). 1 Disconnect the TV cable (see Section 5). 1 Disconnect the shift linkage. 1 Support the engine using a hoist from above or a jack and a block of wood under the oil pan to spread the load. 1 Support the transaxle with a jack - preferably a special jack made for this purpose. Safety chains will help steady the transaxle on the jack. 1 Remove any chassis or suspension components which will interfere 1

down on

4

Measure the TV

in

the

make

sure the torque converter hub

is

securely

pump.

23 With the transaxle secured to the jack, raise it into position. Be sure to keep it level so the torque converter does not slide out. Connect the fluid cooler lines.

7B

186

24

Chapter 7 Part B Turn the torque converter to line up the bolt holes in the converter and The white paint mark on the torque converter and the driveplate

driveplate.

made in Step 5 must line up. Move the transaxle forward

25

carefully until the dow/el pins

and the

torque converter are engaged.

26 27

them

Install

the transaxle housing-to-engine bolts. Tighten

Install

the torque converter-to-driveplate bolts. Tighten the bolts to the

securely.

specified torque.

28 Install the transaxle and any suspension and chassis components which were removed. Tighten the bolts and nuts to the specified torque. 29 Remove the jacks supporting the transaxle and the engine. 30 Install the starter motor (see Chapter 5).

Automatic transaxle 31

32 33 34 35 36 37 38

Connect the vacuum hose(s) (if equipped). Connect the shift and TV linkage. Plug

in

Install

the transaxle electrical connectors.

the torque converter cover.

Connect the driveaxles (see Chapter 8). ,i Connect the speedometer cable. I Adjust the shift linkage and TV cable (see Sections 3 and 5). Install any exhaust system components that were removed or discon-

nected.

39 40

Lower the Fill

leaks.

vehicle.

the transaxle (see Chapter

1 ),

run the vehicle and check for

fluid

I

Chapter 8

Clutch and driveaxles

Contents

- removal, installation and adjustment 5 - removal, inspection and installation 3 Clutch - descnption and check 2 Clutch fluid level check See Chapter 1 Clutch hydraulic system bleeding 8 Clutch master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation 6 Clutch pedal height and freeplay check and adjustment (hydraulic clutch models) See Chapter 1 Clutch release bearing and fork - removal, inspection and installation 4

Clutch release fork arm freeplay check

Clutch cable

Clutch components

and adjustment

See Chapter

Clutch release cylinder -removal, overhaul and installation

1

7

Driveaxle boot replacement and constant velocity (CV) joint

overhaul

Dnveaxles. constant velocity (CV) joints and boots Driveaxles - removal and installation Flywheel - removal and installation

General information Intermediate shaft

12 9 10 See Chapter 2

- check

1

- removal and

installation

11

Specifications

General Clutch pedal height/freeplay Clutch

fluid

type

See Chapter See Chapter

1 1

Driveaxles Dhveaxle standard length 1982 and earlier

767 mm)

29.8 to 30.2 18.7 to 19.1

in

(757

in

(469.5 to 479.5

Left

31 .2 to 32.0

in

Right

20.2 to 20.4

in

(809 to 813 (514 to 518

mm) mm)

Manual trans

31 .5 to 31 .7

in

(800 to 804

Auto trans

31 .8 to 32.0

in

20.2 to 20.4

in

(809 to 81 3 (514 to 51 8

mm) mm) mm)

Manual trans

31

31 .7

in

(800 to 804

Auto trans

31 .8 to 32.0

in

(809 to 81 3

31 .7 to 31 .9

in

(805 to 809

32.0 to 32.1 19.5 in (496

in

(812 to 816

Left

Right

to

mm)

1983 and 1984

1985 Left

Right

1986 and 1987 Carbureted engine .5 to

mm) mm)

Fuel injected engine

Manual trans Auto trans 1988 and later (both sides)

mm)

mm) mm)

8

188

Chapter 8

Clutch and driveaxles

Torque specifications

Ft-ibs

Pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts Release fork-to-release shaft bolt Intermediate shaft bearing support-to-engine block bolts

19 19

28 137

Driveaxle hub nut

CLUTCH CABLE

CLUTCH PEDAL RETURN SPRING

CLUTCH PEDAL

Exploded view of the clutch components (mechanical release system shown)

RELEASE FORK RELEASE

ARM

TRANSAXLE

ervoir,

General information

The

information

in this

Chapter deals with the components from the

rear of the engine to the front wheels, except for the transaxle. which dealt with

in

is

the previous Chapter. For the purposes of this Chapter, these

components are grouped

the hydraulic

line,

a release

(or slave) cylinder

which actuates the

and the clutch release (or throwout) bearing. The mechanical release system includes the clutch pedal with adjuster mechanism, a clutch cable which actuates the clutch release lever and the clutch release lever

two categohes: clutch and driveaxles. Separate Sections within this Chapter offer general descriptions and checking procedures for components in each of the two groups. Since nearly all the procedures covered in tfiis Chapter involve working under the vehicle, make sure it's securely supported on sturdy jackstands or on a hoist where the vehicle can be easily raised and lowered. into

release bearing.

3

When pressure is applied to the clutch pedal to release the clutch, hy-

draulic or mechanical pressure

clutch release lever.

release bearing.

As

is

exerted against the outer end of the

the lever pivots the shaft fingers push against the

The bearing pushes against the fingers of the diaphragm

spring of the pressure plate assembly, which

in

turn releases the clutch

plate.

4

Terminology can be a problem when discussing the clutch compocommon names are in some cases different from those

nents because

2

Refer 1

used by the manufacturer. For example, the driven plate is also called the is sometimes called a throwout bearing, the release cylinder is sometimes called the operating

Clutch - description and check

clutch plate or disc, the clutch release bearing

to illustration 2.

All

or slave cylinder.

vehicles with a manual transmission use a single dry plate, dia-

phragm spring type clutch (see illustration). The clutch disc has a splined hub which allows to slide along the splines of the transmission input shaft. The clutch and pressure plate are held in contact by spring pressure it

exerted by the diaphragm

in

the pressure plate.

liminary

der (vehicles with a hydraulic release system).

The clutch release system is operated by hydraulic pressure on some 2 models, while on others a mechanical system is used. The hydraulic release system consists of the clutch pedal, a master cylinder and

Other than to replace components with obvious damage, some prechecks should be performed to diagnose clutch problems. These checks assume that the transaxle is in good working condition. a) The first check should be of the fluid level in the clutch master cylin5

fluid res-

If

the

fluid level is

as necessary and inspect the hydraulic system for leaks. If the master cylinder reservoir has run dry. bleed the system as described in Section 8 and retest the clutch operation low,

add

fluid

Chapter 8

189

Clutch and driveaxles transaxle is removed, unless they are following procedures are

new or in near perfect condition. The

based on the assumption the engine

will

stay in

place.

remove the transmission from the veSupport the engine while the transmission is out. Preferably, an engine hoist should be used to support it from above. However, if a jack is used underneath the engine, make sure a piece of wood is positioned between the jack and oil pan to spread the load. Caution: The pickup forthe oil pump is very close to the bottom of the oil pan. If the pan is bent or distorted in any way, engine oil starvation could occur The clutch fork and release bearing can remain attached to the hous3 ing forthe time being. 4 To support the clutch disc during removal, install a clutch alignment tool through the clutch disc hub. 2

Referring to Chapter 7 Part A,

hicle.

Carefully inspect the flywheel and pressure plate for indexing marks. The marks are usually an X. an O or a white letter. If they cannot be found, scribe marks yourself so the pressure plate and the flywheel will be in the

5

same alignment wheel Index the pressure plate to the flywheel (just in case you are going to install the same pressure plate)

3.5

b)

c)

To check "clutch spin down time, run the engine at normal idle speed with the transmission in Neutral (clutch pedal up engaged).

during installation (see Illustration).

Turning each bolt a

little at a time, loosen the pressure plate-to-flya criss-cross pattern until all spring pressure is relieved. Then hold the pressure plate securely and completely remove the bolts, followed by the pressure plate and clutch disc.

6

bolts.

Work

in

Inspection

"

Refer

3.9 and 3. 1 when a problem occurs in the clutch,

to illustrations

Disengage the clutch (pedal down), wait severa. secondsand shift the transmission into Reverse. No grinding noise should be heard. A grinding noise would most likely indicate a problem in the pres-

wear of the

sure plate or the clutch disc.

8

To check for complete clutch release, run the engine (with the parking brake applied to prevent movement) and hold the clutch pedal approximately 1/2-inch from the floor. Shift the transmission be-

vious defects. the surface

flat

tween 1st gear and Reverse several times. If the shift is rough, component failure is indicated. On vehicles with a hydraulic release system, check the release cylinder pushrod travel. With the clutch pedal depressed completely, the release cylinder pushrod should extend substantially. If it doesn't, check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. On vehicles with mechanical release systems, check the adjustment of the clutch cable.

installation

procedure.

d)

Visually inspect the pivot bushing at the top of the clutch pedal to

e)

On

make

sure there

is

no binding or excessive

1

Ordinarily,

clutch driven plate

ponents should be inspected

assembly

it

can be attributed to However, all com-

(clutch disc).

at this time.

Inspect the flywheel for cracks, heat checking, grooves and other ob-

the imperfections are slight, a machine shop can machine and smooth, which is highly recommended regardless of the surface appearance. Refer toChapter 2 for the flywheel removal and

9

If

Inspect the lining on the clutch disc. There should be at leastl

/1

6-inch

above the rivet heads. Check for loose rivets.distortion, cracks, broken springs and other obvious damage (see illustration). As men-

of lining

tioned above, ordinarily the clutch disc

about the condition, replace

it

with a

is

routinely replaced, so

new

if

in

doubt

one.

play.

vehicles with mechanical release systems, a clutch pedal that

to operate is most likely caused by a faulty clutch cable. Check the cable where enters the housing for frayed wires, rust and other signs of corrosion. looks good, lubricate the cable with is difficult

it

If it

is worn out and should be replaced. Crawl under the vehicle and make sure the clutch release lever is solidly mounted on the ball stud (vehicles with a hydraulic release

penetrating

f)

oil.

If

pedal operation improves, the cable

system).

3

8

Clutch components - removal, inspection and Installation

Warning: Dust produced by clutch wear and deposited on clutch components may contain asbestos, which is hazardous to your health. DO NOT blow it out with compressed air and DO NOT inhale DO NOT use gasoline or petroleum-based solvents to remove the dust. Brake system cleaner should be used to flush the dust into a drain pan. After the clutch components are wiped clean with a rag. dispose of the contaminated rags and cleaner in a covered, marked container. it.

Refer

to illustration

The clutch d.sc Lining -

Removal 3.5

Access to the clutch components is normally accomplished by removing the transaxle. leaving the engine in the vehicle. If, of course, the engine is being removed formajor overhaul, then check the clutch for wear and replace worn components as necessary.However, the relatively low cost of the clutch components compared to the time and trouble spent gaining access to them warrants their replacement anytime the engine or

this will

wear down

use Torsion springs - check

for

1

cracking

Rivets - these secure the lining

in

and deformation

Splined hub - the splines must not be worn and should slide smoothly on the transaxle input shaft splines

and

will

damage

the

flywheel or pressure plate if

allowed

to

the surfaces

contact

190

Chapter 8

Clutch and driveaxles

EXCESSIVE WEAR

NORMAL FINGER WEAR

EXCESSIVE FINGER

WEAR

EXCESSIVE WEAR EXCESSIVE FINGER WEAR

3.13

Clutch release bearing and fork - removal, inspection and installation

4

EXCESSIVE SCORING

Center the clutch disc in the pressure plate with a clutch alignment tool

Warning Dust produced by clutch wear and deposited on clutch compo:

CLUTCH CHATTER

which is hazardous to your health. DO NOT blow it out with compressed air and DO NOT inhale DO NOT use gasoline or petroleum-based solvents to remove the dust. Brake system cleaner should be used to flush the dust into a drain pan. After the clutch components are wiped clean with a rag. dispose of the contaminated rags and cleaner in a labeled, covered container nents

may contain asbestos,

it.

3.11

Replace the pressure plate

The release bearing should

10

disc (see Section

If

excessive wear

Is

noted

also be replaced along with the clutch

4).

1 Check the machined surfaces and the diaphragm spring fingers of the pressure plate (see illustration). If the surface is grooved or otherwise damaged, replace the pressure plate. Also check for obvious damage,

can be removed with medium grit a new pressure plate is required, new and factory-rebuilt

distortion, cracking, etc. Light glazing

emery

cloth.

It

Removal Refer 2 3 fork

to illustration 3.

ing from the fork, pull the spring

13

installation,

clean the flywheel and pressure plate machined

surfaces with brake cleaner, lacquer thinner or acetone.

no

oil

or grease

with mechanical release systems,

remove the release

bearing fork-to-release shaft bolt (see illustration) and slide the shaft out of the transaxle housing to free the release beanng. To separate the bear-

Installation Before

and 4.4b

On models with hydraulic release systems, remove the clutch release from the ball stud (see illustration), then remove the bearing from the On models

4

12

4.4a

fork.

units are available.

Refer

to illustration 4.3.

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Remove the transaxle (Chapter 7).

1

is

on these surfaces or the

lining of

It's

ends outward disengaging them from the

slots in the bearing locating tabs

(see illustration)

important that

the clutch disc. Handle

the parts only with clean hands. Position the clutch disc

1

the clutch held

in

and pressure plate against the flywheel with

place with an alignment tool (see illustration).

Make

(most replacement clutch plates will be marked "flywheel side or something similar - if not marked, install the clutch disc with the damper springs toward the transaxle). 1 Tighten the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts only finger tight.working around the pressure plate. sure

it's

installed properly "

Center the clutch disc by ensuring the alignment tool extends through in the crankshaft. Wiggle the tool up, down or sideto-side as needed to center the disc. Tighten the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts a little at a time, working in a criss-cross pattern to prevent distorting the cover After all of the bolts are snug, tighten them to the specified torque. Remove the alignment tool. 1 Using high temperature grease, lubricate the inner groove of the release bearing (refer to Section 4). Also place grease on the release lever contact areas and the transaxle input shaft bearing retainer 1 Install the clutch release bearing as described in Section 4. 1

the splined hub and into the pocket

1

all

Install

the transaxle

and

all

components removed previously. Tighten

fasteners to the proper torque specifications.

Reach behind the release fork and disengage the lever from the ball stud by pulling on the retention spring, then remove the fork and bearing

4,3

Chapter 8

191

Clutch and driveaxles

Remove the clutch release bearing fork bolt then slide the release shaft out of the transaxle housing (assembly removed from transaxle for clarity)

4.4a

4.4b

To release the bearing from the

fork, pull the

ends

of the

retaining spring out

4.7 Apply a light coat of high-temperature grease to the transaxle bearing retainer and also fill the release bearing groove

4.8

Apply high-temperature grease to the release fork in

the areas indicated

Inspection Hold the bearing by the outer race and rotate the inner race while apIf the bearing doesn't turn smoothly or if it's noisy, replace the bearing/hub assembly with a new one. Wipe the bearing with a clean 5

plying pressure.

damage, wear and cracks. It's common practice to new one whenever a clutch job is performed, to decrease the possibility of a bearing failure in the future. Don't immerse the bearing in solvent - it's sealed for life and to do so would ruin it. Also check the release lever for cracks and bends. rag and inspect

it

for

8

replace the bearing with a

6

If

the

new

bearing

the holder from the old driver or

is

not equipped with a bearing holder (hub), drive

beanng and

install

it

to the

new one. A seal/bushing

an appropriately sized socket can be used

to

accomplish

this.

Installation Refer 7

to illustrations 4.

Fill

7.

4.8

and 4.9

the inner groove of the release bearing with high temperature

light coat of the same grease to the transaxle input and the front bearing retainer (see illustration). On models with hydraulic release systems, lubricate the release fork 8 ball socket, fork ends and release cylinder pushrod socket with high temperature grease (see illustration).

grease. Also apply a shaft splines

9

Attach the release bearing to the release fork (see illustration).

When assembling the release bearing to the fork, make sure the ends of the bearing retention clip are seated on the backside of the release fork, as shown

4.9

192

5.2a

Chapter 8

Clutch and driveaxles

Loosen the cable adjuster wheel to provide enough slack unhook it - this is also where the release arm

the cable to

free-play

is

in

5.2b To disconnect the cable from the release lever arm, pull up on the lever and pass the cable through the slot in the lever arm

adjusted

6.6

Exploded

Chapter 8

Clutch and driveaxles

1 On models with hydraulic release systems, slide the release bearing onto the transaxle input shaft front beanng retainer while passing the end

of the release fork

through the opening

in

clutch release fork onto the ball stud until

the clutch housing. Push the

it's

firmly seated.

On 1 979 to 982

5

1

models, the cylinder is retained by two nuts, which are accessed from under the dash. later

Refer

the specified torque.

6

12

Apply a

light

coat of high-temperature grease to the face of the reit contacts the pressure plate diaphragm fingers.

lease beanng where 1

The remainder of the

dure, tightening

5

all

installation

is

the reverse of the removal proce-

bolts to the specified torque.

Clutch cable - removal, installation and adjustment

Refer

to illustrations

5.2a and 5.2b

Note: This procedure applies

to

1983 through 1987 models

only.

Removal 1

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

Loosen the clutch cable adjuster wheel (see illustration) to provide slack in the cable, then unhook the cable end from the release arm (see 2

3 4

From

inside the vehicle, disconnect the cable from the top of the

Remove the cable through the firewall,

to illustration 6.6

Pull

back the dust boot on the pushrod and remove the snap-ring (see

illustration)

Remove the retainer and pushrod from the cylinder. Invert the cylin7 der and tap It against a block of wood to eject the piston assembly. If it won't come out, apply compressed air to the fluid inlet port (make sure the open end of the cylinder is not pointed toward anyone and use just enough pressure to push the piston out). Carefully disassemble the piston and one-way valve assembly, not8 ing how the components are arranged. Discard the rubber parts and clean the remaining parts with clean brake fluid or brake system cleaner. DO NOT use petroleum based solvents. If available, blow the components dry with compressed air. Inspect the bore of the cylinder for scratches, score marks, ridges and 9 corrosion. The surface must be smooth to the touch. If the bore isn't perfectly smooth, the cylinder must be replaced with a new or factory rebuilt unit. If

into the

engine com-

specific instructions

plenty of clean brake fluid 1

all of the new parts contained in the kit which may be included in the kit. Use when assembling the components.

the cylinder will be rebuilt, use

and follow any

Pry the cable casing out of the firewall.

clutch pedal.

Overhaul

1

illustration).

models, unscrew the two clutch master cylinder secylinder from under the dash. On 1 988 and

remove the

curing bolts and

11 On models with mechanical release systems, position the bearing and fork assembly on the transaxle input shaft and slide the release shaft through the release fork. Align the holes and install the bolt, tightening to it

193

Place the valve seal onto the valve stem, then

partment.

followed by the return spring and retainer.

Installation

lips of

1

5

Feed

it's

6

and hook the cable end to the top Push the cable housing into it's hole in the firewall until

the cable through the firewall

of the clutch pedal.

completely seated. Route the cable into position on the bracket on the transaxle. Connect

1

Carefully stretch the rubber piston

Install

piston cup.

Adjustment

spring

7

Refer to Chapter

Reconnect the battery cable.

1

for the clutch

cable adjustment procedure.

1

piston.

The

of the valve

bend the

retention tab

stem.

Lubricate the cylinder bore and piston with brake fluid, insert the valve

the cable end to the release arm.

8

cup into position on the

the valve assembly to the piston and

and piston assembly 15

the valve spring

the cup must be pointing toward the return spring.

down over the end 1

install

into the cylinder bore,

Position the pushrod

and

install

Apply a

it

plate

in

the bore,

compress the

the snap-ring.

film of

boot and push

and stopper

being careful not to distort the

rubber grease or equivalent to the inside of the dust

into position,

making sure the

lip

of the boot seats in the

groove on the cylinder body.

6

Clutch master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation

Installation 1

Note: Before beginning this procedure, contact local parts stores and dealer service departments concerning the purchase of a rebuild kit or a

new master cylinder A vailability and cost of the necessary parts may dictate whether the cylinder is rebuilt or replaced with a new one. If it's decided to rebuild the cylinder inspect the bore as described in Step 9 before purchasing parts. This procedure does not apply to 1983 through 1987 models.

Place the master cylinder

position

and

install

the mounting nuts or

Connect the hydraulic line(s) to the master cylinder, moving the cylinas necessary to thread the fitting(s) properly into the bore (on later models, attach the fluid feed hose to the cylinder and tighten the hose 1

der

slightly

clamp. Don't cross-thread the fitting as it is installed). 1 Tighten the mounting nuts or bolts securely, then tighten the hydraulic line fitting(s).

20

Connect the pushrod

cure the clevis

Removal

in

bolts finger tight.

21

to the clutch pedal.

Use a new

Remove the

3

locking pliers from the feed hose.

Fill

the clutch master

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. Working under the dashboard, remove the cotter pin from the master 2 cylinder pushrod ctevis. Pull out the clevis pin to disconnect the pushrod from the pedal. Clamp a pair of locking pliers onto the clutch fluid feed hose, a couple 3 of inches downstream of the reservoir. The pliers should be just tight enough to prevent fluid flow when the hose is disconnected. 4 Disconnect the hydraulic line(s) at the cylinder (the cylinder is located under the dash and above the clutch pedal on 1 982 and earlier models, and on the engine compartment firewall on 1988 and later models). If available, use a flare-nut wrench on the fitting, which will prevent the fitting from being rounded off. On 1 988 and later models loosen the fluid feed hose clamp and detach the hose from the cylinder. Have rags handy as some fluid will be lost as the line is removed. Cap or plug the ends of the lines (and/or hose) to prevent fluid leakage and the entry of contaminants. Caution Don t allow brake fluid to come into contact with the paint as it will

cylinder reservoir with the with brake fluid conforming to

damage

2

1

:

the

finish.

cotter pin to se-

pin.

DOT 3 specifica-

tions

and bleed the clutch system as outlined

7

Clutch release cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation

in

Section

8.

Note: Before beginning this procedure, contact local parts stores and dealer service departments concerning the purchase of a rebuild kit or a new release cylinder A vailability and cost of the necessary parts may dictate whether the cylinder is rebuilt or replaced with a new one. If it's decided to rebuild the cylinder, inspect the txjre as described in Step 8 before purchasing parts.

Removal 1

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

194

Chapter 8

Clutch and driveaxles

Exploded view of the

7.6

clutch release cylinder

model shown, models similar)

(early later

1

2

Chapter 8

Clutch and driveaxles

195

CV JOINT

PRY BAR

Using a large screwdriver or pry bar, pop the inner CV joint out of the transaxle (or intermediate shaft). Be careful not to

10.7

damage

Break the hub nut loose while the wheel

10.1

Is still

on

the ground

9

the transaxle case or seal

SPRING CLIP

Driveaxles, constant velocity (CV) joints and boots - checl
earing is fastened to the block with three bolts (the upper bolt is not visible in this photo)

procedure applies

to

1988 and

later

models

7

only.

Lubricate the

lips of

the differential

oil

seal with multi-purpose grease.

Carefully guide the intermediate shaft into the differential side gear then

Removal 1

support 2

it

left

front

wheel

lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle

securely on jackstands.

Remove

and

the wheel.

Drain the transaxle gear lubricant or automatic transmission

(Chapter 3

install

Loosen the

8 fluid

12.3

The

large boot

bands can be pried open with a

small screwdriver

Install

a new spring clip on the inner CV joint (see

illustration

1

0.9)

and

Connect the lower arm to the steering knuckle and tighten the balljoint in Chapter 10. Install the wheel and lug nuts, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug

stud nut to the torque specified

10

ter 10).

beanng support. Tighten the bolts to

seat the driveaxle into the intermediate shaft splines.

9

1).

Separate the suspension lower arm from the steering knuckle (Chap-

the mounting bolts through the

the specified torque.

1

2.5a

Pry the retaining ring from the joint housing with a small screwdriver

Chapter 8

Clutch and driveaxles

197

INNER JOINT

BALLBEARING •

INNER CV JOINT HOUSING 'Check

Irtspect for

BOOT BAND Replace

wear

or pitting

BOOT

B'

DRIVESHAFT

•Inspect for breaks

BALL BEARING RACE •Inspect for wear, scoring IrsFMCt splines for wear or damage

splines for

wear or darruge Check inside bore for wear Inspect for cracks

SPRING CLIP Always replace

SNAP RING

RETAINING RING

SNAP RING

BOOT BAND

C

Replace

BALL BEARING CAGE •|nsf>ect for

nuts to the torque specified 11

Refill

in

Chapter

wear or cracks

Exploded view

12.5b

of the inner

CV

joint (1982

and

amount

of lubricant

(Chapterl).

models)

and boot - 1982 and earlier models

Inner joint

1

the transaxle with the proper type and

earlier

Refer to illustrations

12.3. 12.5a. 12.5b. 12.6. 12.9. 12.10. 12.11a. 12.11b.

12.13. 12.14. 12.18. 12.21a. 12.21b. 12.22a

and 12.22b

Pry the large boot band loose with a small screwdnver and slide

3

the end of the dnveaxle (see illustration). Cut the inner tx)ot band 1

2

Driveaxle boot replacement and constant velocity (CV) overhaul

joint

Note: If the CV joints exhibit signs of wear indicating the need for an overhaul (usually due to torn tX)ots). explore all options before beginning the job. Complete rebuilt driveaxles are available on an exchange basis, which eliminates much time and work. Whichever route you choose to take, check on the availability of parts before disassembling your vehicle. 1

Remove

2

Mount the driveaxle in a vise. The jaws of the vise should be lined with

wood

the driveaxle (refer to Section

or rags to prevent

damage

1

0).

to the axleshaft.

off

it

off

with

a pair of diagonal cutting pliers. Slide the boot back on the shaft. 4 Mark the relationship of the inner CV joint housing to the axleshaft. Using a small screwdriver, pry the retaining ring out of the joint hous5 ing (see illustrations), then slide the housing off the bearing assembly.

Mark the

6

relationship of the inner race to the

(see illustration). 7 Remove the snap-ring at the end ing

assembly

off

cage and the axleshaft

of the driveaxle,

then slide the bear-

the shaft.

Remove the remaining snap-ring from the axleshaft and slide the boot 8 from the shaft. Using a screwdriver, pry the balls from the cage (see illustration). 9

8

12.6

Paint alignment

marks on the inner

race,

cage and axleshaft

12.9

Pry the balls from the cage with a screwdriver (be careful not to nick or scratch them)

198

12.10

12.11b

12.14

Chapter 8

Tilt

the inner race 90-degrees and rotate

It

Clutch and driveaxles

out of the cage

for cracks, pitting and score marks (shiny spots are normal and don't affect operation)

Check the cage

Wrap the splined area of the axle with tape damage to the boot when installing it

to prevent

12.11a

12.13

12.18

Check the inner race lands and grooves score marks

for pitting

and

Press the balls into the cage through the windows

Pack grease

into the bearing until

it's

completely

full

199

Clutch and driveaxles

Chapter 8

12.21a Adjust the driveaxle to the specified length A (listed in the Specifications Section) before tightening the boot bands

12.21b

10

Rotate the Inner race 90-degrees, align the inner race lands with the

cage windows and rotate the race out of the cage (see illustration). 1 Clean the components with solvent to remove all traces of grease. Inspect the cage and races for pitting, score marks, cracks and other signs of wear and damage (see illustrations). Shiny, polished spots are normal and will not adversely affect CV joint performance. 12 To reassemble the joint, begin by inserting the inner race into the cage. Venfy that the matchmarks line up. 1 Press the balls into the cage windows with your thumbs (see illustration). 1

1 Slide the housing down onto the bearing assembly, making sure the marks on the housing and the axleshaft are aligned. 20 Wipe any excess grease from the axle boot groove on the CV joint housing. Seat the small end of the boot in the recessed area on the axleshaft and install the tx)ot band. 21 Push the large end of the boot over the joint housing. Move the joint

housing

Wrap the axleshaft splines with tape to avoid damaging the boot (see

illustration). Slide the small boot

boot, then 1

Equalize the pressure inside the boot by inserting a small screwdriver between the boot and the joint housing

Install

remove the

band onto the

by the

shaft, followed

tape.

in

or out to adjust the driveaxle to the specified length (see illus-

tration). Before installing the large lx)ot band, equalize the pressure in the

boot by carefully

lifting

the

edge

of the

boot with a small screwdriver (see

illustration).

the inner snap-ring on the axleshaft. making sure

it

seats

in its

22

Tighten the boo't bands (see illustrations).

groove completely. 1

Install

the bearing assembly onto the axleshaft, making sure the pre-

viously applied

matchmarks

line

up

(the larger diameter of the

cage must

the outer snap-ring, making sure

1

Install

1

Force the grease supplied

pletely tion).

worked

into the inner

Inner joint Refer

face the end of the shaft).

in

the boot

kit

seats

into the

race and around

Place the remainder of the grease

it

all

in its

groove.

bearing

of the balls

into the

CV joint

until

it

is

com-

(see illustra-

housing.

23 24

and boot - 1983 and later models 12.25

to Illustrations

Perform Steps

Mark the

and 12.26

through

1

3.

relationship of the inner

then slide the housing from the tripod

25

Remove

CV joint

housing to the axleshaft,

joint.

the tripod joint outer snap-ring. This

may

require a pair of

8

12,22a

To

new boot bands, bend down and

install the

.

.

.

the tang

12,22b

.

,

.

tap the tabs over

it

to hold

It

in

place

200

Chapter 8

Clutch and driveaxles

ROLLER SNAP-RING

INNER

CLAMP

OUTER JOINT BOOT

OUTER JOINT

OUTER CLAMP

1

2.25

Exploded view of the inner CV joint and driveaxle (1983 and later models)

some models - on other models it can be pried off witfi a screwdriver (see illustration) 26 Using a punch), place matchmarks on the tripod joint spider and the end of the driveaxle (see illustration). Also index each roller beahng as-

snap-ring pliers on

sembly to the spider using pieces of numbered tape. 27 Slide the tripod joint spider and roller assembly off then pry

28 29

off

of the axleshaft,

the inner snap-ring.

Clean the components with solvent and blow them dry with com-

Use a center punch to place matchmarks (arrows) on the and the driveaxle to ensure that they are

tripod spider

reassembled properly

air,

if

available. Inspect the rollers, spider

30

if

and housing for signs of

necessary.

Lubricate the rollers with

CV joint grease and assemble them to their

proper locations on the spider. der of the grease (supplied

Slide the boot off of the driveaxle.

12.26

pressed

wear, replacing parts

in

Fill

the inner joint housing with the remain-

the boot

kit).

Perform Steps 1 4 and 1 5 above, then slide the spider and roller assembly onto the driveaxle, making sure the matchmarks are aligned. 32 Perform Step 1 7 above. 33 Perform Steps 1 9 through 22 above. 31

12.37 After the old grease has been rinsed away and the cleaning solvent has been blown out with compressed air, rotate the outboard joint through its full range of motion and inspect the bearing surfaces for wear or damage - if any of the balls, the race or the cage look damaged, replace the driveaxle/outer joint assembly

Chapter 8 Outer joint and boot -

all

201

Clutch and driveaxles

models surfaces for signs of wear.

Refer

to illustration

12.37

Remove the dhveaxle from the vehicle, then following the appropriate procedure above, remove the inner CV joint and boot. 34

35 Remove the outer joint boot bands (Step 3). the dynamic damper bands (if equipped) then slide the damper and boot off of the axleshaft. 36 Thoroughly wash the outer CV joint with solvent and dry with compressed air, available. Note: Because the outer joint cannot be disasit

if

sembled,

it

is difficult to

wasti away all the old grease and to rid the bearing

of solvent once it s clean. But it is imperative that the job be done thoroughly,

so take your time and do

it

right.

Bend the outer CV joint housing at an angle to the driveaxle to expose the bearings, inner race and cage (see illustration). Inspect the bearing 37

If

the bearings are

damaged

or worn, replace

the driveaxle.

38

Wrap the axleshaft splines with tape to prevent damage to the tx)ots, new outer boot onto the driveaxle. Pack the joint with the CV

then slide the joint

grease supplied

in

the

kit,

making sure the grease

is

completely

worthed into the bearings. Slide the boot on the rest of the way. seating

each end in its groove. Equalize the pressure in the boot and install the new clamps (Steps 21 and 22). 39 Install the dynamic damper and position it 2 mm (0.08-inch) from the taper on the axleshaft (1982 and eariier models) or the outer joint boot (1988 and later models). 40 Inspect, service and reassemble the inner joint following the appropriate procedure above, then install the driveaxle (Section 10).

8

Brakes

Chapter 9 Contents Brake Brake Brake Brake Brake Brake Brake

See Chapter

system check disc

-

inspection, removal

and

installation

Master cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation Parking brake - adjustment Parking brake cables - replacement Power brake booster - check, removal and installation

1

4

check See Chapter 1 replacement See Chapter 1 hoses and lines - inspection and replacement 11 12 hydraulic system - bleeding light switch - removal, installation and adjustment 16 Front disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation 3 Front disc brake pads - replacement 2 1 General information fluid level fluid

disc brake caliper

.

See Chapter See Chapter See Chapter

1 1

1

1979 and 1980

0.0 to 0.016

1981

0.008

to

1982 1983 on

0.002 0.016

to

0.016 0.016

in

(0.4

in

(0.0 to 0.4 in (0.2 to in

3 to 7 clicks 4 to 8 clicks 7 to

1 1

clicks

Front disc brakes See Chapter

1

Disc thickness

1982 and earlier Standard Minimum* 1983 Standard Minimum* 1984 through 1989 (except Standard Minimum* 1988 and 1989 Si models Standard Minimum*

0.472 in (12.0 mm) 0.4134 in (10.5 mm)

Si

0.67

in (1

0.59

in

(15

0.75

in

(19

0.67

in

(17

0.83

in (21

7

mm) mm)

model)

75

in

(19

mm) mm) mm) mm)

mm) mm) 0.4 mm)

0.4

(0.05 to

mm)

Parking brake lever travel

Brake pad minimum thickness

13

10

brake shoes - replacement - removal, overhaul and installation disc brake pads - replacement wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment See Chapter Wheel cylinder- removal, overhaul and installation

Rear Rear Rear Rear

General

1979 through 1981 1982 through 1987 1 988 on

15

- general information

Proportioning valve

Specifications

Brake fluid type Brake pedal free play Brake pedal height Brake booster pushrod-to-master cylinder clearance

9 14

.

.

7 6 5 l

8

Chapter 9 :^ness variation (parallelism) ;

'

203

Brakes

0.0006

in

(0.015

mm) maximum

runout (maximum)

979 through 1982 983 on

0.006 0.004

in

(0.15

in

(0.10

mm) mm)

Rear disc brakes Brake pad minimum thickness

See Chapter

1

Disc thickness

mm) mm) 0.004 in (0.10 mm) 0.0006 in (0.01 5 mm)

Standard

Minimum* Disc runout (maximum) Thickness variation (parallelism) 'Refer to the marks

0.39

in

(10.0

0.31

in

(8.0

stamped into the disc - they supersede information printed here

Drum brakes Brake shoe

lining

minimum thickness

See Chapter

1

Drum diameter 1979 through 1982 Standard

Maximum* 1983 on Standard

Maximum* 'Refer to the marl^s cast into the

drum - they supersede

7.08

in

{180

7.13

in

(181

7.87

in

(200

7.91

in

(201

mm) mm)

mm) mm)

information printed here

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise specified)

Front brake caliper mounting bolts

979 through 1 985 1986 and 1987 Carbureted models Fuel injected models 1988 on S models Si models

13

1

13

33 36 24 55 25

Caliper mount-to-steering knuckle bolts

Brake hose-to-caliper banjo bolt (front or rear) Rear brake caliper guide bolts 1984 and 1985 1986 and 1987 Carbureted models Fuel Injected models 1 988 on Rear brake caliper mount-to-hub carrier bolts

Wheel

cylinder-to-backing plate nutsbolts

.

.

22

22 17 17

28 72

.

Master cylinder-to-power brake booster nuts 1979 through 1982 1983 through 1985 1986 and 1987 Carbureted models

to

84

in-lbs

120in-lbs

60

in-lbs

Power brake booster mounting nuts

60 in-lbs 132 in-lbs 132 in-lbs 132 in-lbs

Brake backing plate bolts 1979 through 1982 1983

40 22

Fuel injected models

1988 on

brakes are self-adjusting. The front and rear disc brakes automaticompensate for pad wear, while the rear drum brakes incorporate an adjustment mechanism which is activated as the brakes are applied, eiAll

1

General information

cally

General All

ther through the pedal or the parking brake lever.

vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with hydraulically op-

erated power assisted brake systems.

All front

type, while the rear brakes are either disc or

brake systems are disc

drum

type.

The hydraulic system is a diagonally split design, meaning there are separate circuits for the left front right rear and the right front left rear brakes If one circuit fails, the other circuit will remain functional and a

204

Brakes

Chapter 9

warning indicator will light upon the dashboard when a substantial amount of brake fluid is lost, showing that a failure has occurred.

system components, clean all parts with brake system cleaner or denatured alcohol. Do not allow the fine dust to become airborne. Safety should be paramount whenever any servicing of the brake components is performed. Do not use parts or fasteners which are not in perfect condition, and be sure that all clearances and torque specifications are adhered to. If you are at all unsure about a certain procedure, seek professional advice. Upon completion of any brake system work, test the brakes carefully in a controlled area before putting the vehicle into normal service. If a problem is sus-

Master cylinder The master

cylinder

brake booster, and

is

is

located under the hood,

best recognized by the large

mounted

power on top.

to the

fluid reservoir

The fluid reservoir a removable plastic cup, secured by a clamp. The master cylinder is designed for the "split system" mentioned earlier and has separate primary and secondary piston assemblies, the piston

pected

nearest the firewall being the secondary piston.

in

the brake system, don't drive the vehicle

until it's fi'xed.

Proportioning valve The proportioning valve

is

bolted to the right strut tower.

two separate valves - one valve

The proportioning valves

for

each

It

is

actually

Front disc brake pads - replacement

2

circuit.

regulate the hydraulic pressure to the rear

brakes during heavy braking to eliminate rear wheel lock-up. Under normal braking conditions they allow full pressure to the rear brake system until a predetermined pedal pressure is reached. Above that point, the pressure to the rear brakes will be limited. The proportioning valve is not serviceable - a problem develops with must be replaced as an assembly. the valve, if

it

Refer

to Illustrations

2.5

and 2.6a through 2.6g

Warning: Disc brake pads must be replaced on both front wheels at the same time - never replace the pads on only one wheel. Also, the dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don t inhale any of An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleumbased solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only! it.

Power brake booster The power brake booster,

utilizing

engine manifold vacuum and atmo-

spheric pressure to provide assistance to the hydraulically operated

brakes,

is

mounted on the

firewall in the

engine compartment.

Note: When servicing the disc brakes, use only high quality, nationally recognized name brand pads.

Remove

the cap from the brake fluid reservoir Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear 1

2

Parking brake The parking brake mechanically operates the rear brakes only. On drum brake models the parking brake cables pull on a lever attached to the brake shoe assembly, causing the shoes to expand against the drum. On models with rear disc brakes, the cables pull on levers that are attached to screw-type actuators

in

the caliper housings, which apply

force to the caliper pistons, clamping the brake

pads against the brake

disc.

Precautions There are some general cautions and warnings involving the brake system on this vehicle; a) b)

Use only brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 specifications. The brake pads and linings may contain asbestos fibers which are hazardous to your health inhaled. Whenever you work on brake if

Using a large C-clamp, push the piston back into the caliper - note that one end of the clamp is on the flat area

2.5

on the backside

and the other end (screw end) pressing on the outer pad

of the caliper, is

it

wheels.

Remove the front wheels. Work on one brake assembly at a time,

3

ing the

4 is

assembled brake

for

reference

if

Inspect the brake disc carefully as outlined

necessary, follow the information

in

us-

necessary. in

Section

that Section to

4.

If

machining

remove the

disc, at

which time the calipers and pads can be removed as well. 5 Push the piston back into the bore to provide room for the new brake pads. A C-clamp can be used to accomplish this (see illustration). As the piston is depressed to the bottom of the caliper bore, the fluid in the master cylinder will rise. f\^ake sure it doesn't overflow. If necessary, siphon off

some

of the fluid. Follow the accompanying illustrations, beginning with 2.6a, for the ac-

6 tual tion

pad replacement procedure. Be sure to stay in order and read the capunder each illustration.

Before removing anything, spray the caliper and brake pads with brake cleaner to remove the harmful dust that is produced by 2.6a

brake pad wear

206

Brakes

Chapter 9

2.6g Install the brake pads, with shims In place, into the mounting bracket. The pad with the wear indicator (if equipped) goes on the inside

Before installing the pads, apply a thin coat of disc brake compound the the backing plates of the pads. Allow them to dry before installing

2.6f

anti-squeal

7

When reinstalling the caliper, be sure to tighten the mounting bolts to been completed, firmly depress the the pads into contact with the disc.

Note:

If

an overhaul is indicated (usually because of fluid leakage) explore

options before beginning the job.

the specified torque. After the job has

all

brake pedal a few times to bring Check for fluid leakage and make sure the brakes operate normally 8

available on an

before driving

ceeding. Always rebuild the calipers

in traffic.

New and factory rebuilt calipers are

exchange basis, which makes this job quite easy.

cided to rebuild the calipers,

If It's

de-

make sure a rebuild kit is a vaitable before proin

pairs

- never

rebuild just

one

of

them.

Removal 3

Front disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation

Disconnect tfie brake

1

line

from the caliper and plug

it

to

keep contami-

nants out of the brake system and to prevent losing any more brake than

Refer

to illustrations 3. la, 3. 1b. 3.3. 3.4

and 3.6

2

Warning: Dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don inhale any of An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol 't

it.

only!.

necessary (see illustrations). Remove the caliper mounting bolts and

fluid

is

lift

the caliper from

its

mount.

Overhaul To overhaul the caliper (see illustration 2.6b). remove the rubber 1 987 and earlier models only) (see illustration). Before you remove the piston, place a wood block between the piston and caliper to prevent damage as it is removed. 3

boot ring and the rubber boot

(

L.

a 'S2i /,' 3.1a

Remove

the brake hose-to-caliper union bolt. Use sealing washers when reconnecting the fitting

new

3.1b

Using a piece of rubber hose of the appropriate the brake line fitting

size,

plug

Chapter 9

3.3

Using a small screwdriver, remove the piston boot set ring (early models)

207

Brakes

3.4

With the caliper padded to catch the piston, use compressed out of its bore. Make sure your hands or

air to force the piston

fingers are not between the piston and the caliper

On 988 and

11 in

1

models,

later

install

the piston boot

in

the upper groove

the caliper bore.

Lubricate the piston with clean brake fluid and position it squarely in 1 it. the caliper bore, then apply firm (but not excessive) pressure to install On 1 986 and later models, make sure the piston boot seats in the groove in the piston.

the new rubber boot and retaining ring (pre-1 988 models). Lubricate the mounting bolt dust covers with silicone-based grease (supplied in the kit) and push them into the caliper mount. Install

1

14

Installation

Remember to Install the caliper by reversing the removal procedure. 1 replace the sealing washers on either side of the brake line fitting (they should be included with the rebuild kit). Bleed the brake system according to the procedure in Section 1 2. 1

4 or wooden 3.6 The piston seal should be removed with a plastic pencil will tool to avoid damage to the bore and seal groove. A do the job

air to the 4 To remove the piston from the caliper, apply compressed illustration). Use brake fluid hose connection on the caliper body (see Warning Be careonly enough pressure to ease the piston out of its bore. piston and the caliper as the pisful not to place your fingers between the later models, remove the ton may come out with some force. On 1988 and :

piston boot.

5 is

inspectthematingsurfacesofthepistonandcaliperborewall. Ifthere complete caliper rust, pitting or bright areas, replace the

any scoring,

a new one. piston these components are in good condition, remove the rubber tool (see illustration). seal from the caliper bore using a wooden or plastic

unit with

6

If

Metal tools

may damage

the cylinder bore.

Push the mounting bolt dust covers out of the caliper mount. fluid or alcohol. all the components in clean brake correct reTo reassemble the caliper, you should already have the 9 apply silicone-based build kit for the vehicle. Note: During reassembly covers. grease (supplied with the rebuild kit) to the mounting bolt dust Submerge the new piston seal in brake fluid and install in the lower 1

7

8

Wash

it

groove

in

the caliper bore.

Brake disc - inspection, removal and

Note This procedure applies hicles so equipped). :

to

installation

both the front and rear brake discs (on ve-

Inspection Refer 1

to illustrations 4.2a. 4.2b. 4.3. 4.4a. 4.4b.

Loosen the wheel

lug nuts, raise the vehicle

4.5a and 4.5b

and support securely on it

two lug nuts with 3 mm thick washers under them to hold the disc in place (if the two disc retaining screws are still in place, this will be unnecessary). If the rear brake disc is

jackstands.

Remove

the wheel and

install

being worked on. release the parking brake. Remove the front or rear brake caliper as outlined in Section 3 or Sec2 hose. After tion 6, respectively. It is not necessary to disconnect the brake removing the caliper bolts, suspend the caliper out of the way with a piece

(see illustration). Remove the two caliper mounting bracket-tosteenng knuckle bolts (see illustration) and remove the mounting brack-

of wire

et.

Visually inspect the disc surface for scoring or damage. Light 3 scratches and shallow grooves are normal after use and may not always be detnmental to brake operation, but deep sconng - over 0.01 5 inch (0.38 mm) - requires disc removal and refimshing by an automotive machine If shop. Be sure to check both sides of the disc (see illustration). pulsating has been noticed dunng application of the brakes, suspect disc runout.

9

208

Brakes

Chapter 9

Suspend the

4.2a

caliper with a piece of wire

to reposition

it

- don't

let

it

4.2b

The

4.4a

With two lug nuts (with washers underneath) or the disc

mounting bracket is fastened to the steering knuckle with two bolts (arrows)

caliper

whenever you have

hang by the brake hose!

The brake pads on this vehicle were obviously neglected, as they wore down completely and cut deep grooves into the disc wear this severe will require replacement of the disc

4.3

retaining screws installed to hold the brake disc in place,

the runout with a dial indicator -

maximum

allowable runout

if

limit,

check

the reading exceeds the the disc will have to be

machined or replaced To check disc runout, place a dial indicator at a point about 1/2-inch 4 from the outer edge of the disc (see illustration). Set the indicator to zero

and

The

turn the disc.

allowable runout

indicator reading should not

exceed the specified

does, the disc should be refinished by an automotive machine shop. Note: It is recommended that the discs be resurlimit.

If it

faced regardless of the

dial indicator reading, as this will impart a smooth and ensure a perfectly flat surface, eliminating any brake pedal pulsation or other undesirable symptoms related to questionable discs. At the very least, if you elect not to have the discs resurfaced, remove the glazing from the surface with emery cloth or sandpaper using a swirling motion finish

hub.

If

the disc

is

come off. thread two bolts into and tighten them. Alternate between

stuck to the hub and won't

the holes provided (see illustration)

the bolts, turning

them a couple

of turns at

a time,

until

the disc

is

free.

(see illustration). It is absolutely critical that the disc not be machined to a thickness un5 der the specified minimum allowable disc refinish thickness. The minimum

wear (or discard) thickness is cast into the inside of the disc (see illustration). The disc thickness can be checked with a micrometer (see illustration).

Refer

to illustration 4.6

Remove

(or the

Place the disc

8

Install

in

position over the threaded studs.

the caliper mounting bracket, brake pads and caliper over the

disc. Tighten the

mounting bracket and caliper bolts

to the specified

torque.

Removal 6

Installation 7

the two lug nuts which were put on to hold the disc in place two disc retaining screws, present) and remove the disc from the if

Install the wheel, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Depress the 9 brake pedal a few times to bring the brake pads into contact with the disc. Bleeding of the system will not be necessary unless the fluid hose was disconnected from the caliper. Check the operation of the brakes carefully before placing the vehicle into normal service.

Chapter 9

4.4b

Using a swirling motion, remove the glaze from the disc with

4.5b

emery

A micrometer

is

cloth or

used

to

209

Brakes

4.5a

The minimum allowable thickness

is

stamped

into the disc

sandpaper

measure disc thickness

4.6

Thread two bolts

Into the provided holes in the disc

tighten them, which will force the disc from the

5

CALIPfcR

Rear disc brake pads - replacement

Refer

to illustrations 5.3. 5.4. 5.5.

5.6

hub

PROTECTOR

and 5.9

Warning: Disc brake pads must be replaced on both rear wheels at the same time - never replace the pads on only one wheel. Also, the dust created by the brake system may contain ast)estos. which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not. under any circumstances, use petroleumbased solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only!

When servicing brakes, use only high quality, nationally recognized name brand pads.

Note:

1

Remove

mately

the master cylinder reservoir cap and siphon out approxi-

half of the

brake

fluid.

port

Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and supsecurely on jackstands. Remove the wheels.

3

Remove

2

it

the caliper protector (see illustration)

5.3

The caliper protector

Is

retained by two bolts

and

210

Brakes

Chapter 9

CALIPER

I

LOCK 5.4

PIN

then remove the the parking brake cable from the caliper actuator lever

Pull out the lock pin with a pair of pliers

clevis pin,

which

will free

Remove both

5.5

caliper guide bolts then slide the caliper off the

brake pads

HAD SPRING

CALIPER

GUIDE

BRACKET

5.6

4

Rear brake pad installation details - some models may have anti-squeal shims on either side of the brake pads

Remove

the lock pin from the parking brake cable-to-actuator lever

and disconnect the cable from the lever. 5 Remove the two caliper guide bolts (see illustration) and lift the caliper from its mounting bracket. Hang out of the way with a piece of wire don't let hang by the brake hose. Lift off the pad spring, then remove the pads and shims from the cali6 per bracket. Remove the pad guides from the bracket (see illustration). Before installing the new pads, apply a thin coat of disc brake anti7 squeal compound to the backing plates of the pads, following the manclevis pin (see illustration)

it

it

pad guides in the caliper mounting bracket, then install the new pads and the guides. The pad with the small tab on its backing plate must be installed on the inside of the disc. 9 Before the caliper is installed, the piston must be retracted until bottoms in the bore. A pair of needle-nose pliers with the tips engaged in two of the cut-outs in the top of the piston can be used to turn the piston clockwise, which will cause to retract (see illustration). Now the piston will Position the

it

it

have

to

pair of needle

nose

piston into

bore to

its

can be used to screw the caliper for the new pads

pliers

make room

be positioned so one of the cut-outs will mesh with the tab on the pad when the caliper is installed. Use the needle-nose pliers to

inner brake

adjust piston

accordingly.

it

is

If

the piston dust boot

turned, turn the piston

shape, but be sure the cut-out will

in

becomes

distorted

when

the opposite direction to restore

still

line up.

This

the its

may take a few attempts

to set the piston in the right position. 1

Position the

pad spring over the pads, then

install

the caliper, tighten-

ing the guide bolts to the specified torque. 1

Connect the parking brake cable to the lever on the caliper and install

a new lock

ufacturer's instructions.

8

A

5.9

pin.

1

Install

the caliper protector.

13

Install

the wheel and lug nuts, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug

nuts to the torque specified

in

Chapter

1

Check the brake fluid level and add fluid, if necessary (see Chapter 1 Apply and release the brake pedal and the hand brake lever several 1 times to bring the pads into contact with the brake discs. Check the opera1

tion of the

)

brakes

in

an isolated area before

driving the vehicle in

traffic.

Brakes

Chapter 9

211

Rear disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation

6

Warning Disc brake pads must be replaced on both rear wheels at the same time - never replace the pads on only one wheel. Also, the dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don t inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not. under any circumstances, use petroleumbased solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only!

Removal 1

Loosen the wheel

lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle

Remove

securely on jackstands.

and support

it

the wheel.

Disconnect the fluid hose from the caliper by removing the banjo fitDiscard the sealing washers on each side of the fitting - they must be replaced with new ones when reassembling. 3 Follow Steps 3 through 5 in the previous Section, as caliper removal is part of the brake pad replacement procedure.

2

ting bolt.

Overhaul 4

i

Due to the need for special tools and expertise and the relatively com-

Before removing anything, clean the brake assembly with brake cleaner and allow it to dry - position a drain pan under the brake to catch the residue - DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR TO 7.3

plex design of the rear brake caliper'parking brake actuator assembly, the

overhaul procedure should be performed by a dealer service department

BLOW THE DUST FROM THE

or a repair shop.

PARTS!

Installation 5 tion,

To

install

the caliper, follow Steps 9 through

then bleed the brakes as described

in

1

3

in

the previous Sec-

Section 12.

Clean the parking brake quadrant ratchet adjuster mechanism and lubncate with high temperature grease. Also lubricate the brake shoe contact areas on the backing plate with the same grease (see Illus6

lightly

it

tration).

Using a screwdriver, back off the self adjusting mechanism to provide room for the new shoes, then mark the relationship of the quadrant to the

7 7

Rear brake shoes- replacement

ratchet to verify operation of the adjuster (see illustration).

Lay the new brake shoes on the working surface with the manufacturnumbers on the edge of the shoe linings facing up. Connect the return springs between the shoes and position the assembly on the backing plate. Pry the upper ends of the shoes into the slots in the wheel cylinder 8

Refer

7.4b

to illustrations 7.3. 7.4a.

and

7.4c

ing

Warning: Drum brake shoes must be replaced on both wheels at the same time - never replace the shoes on only one wheel. Also, the dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don inhale any of An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not. under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean 't

it.

brake parts. Use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol only'

Caution Whenever the brake shoes are replaced, the return and retainer spnngs should also be replaced. Due to the continuous heating/cooling cycle that the springs are subjected to. they lose their tension over a period of time and may allow the shoes to drag on the drum and wear at a much faster rate than normal. When replacing the rear brake shoes, use only high quality nationally recognized brand-name parts. :

1

port

Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and supsecurely on jackstands. Block the front wheete and remove the rear

it

wheels.

2 Remove the brake drum (see Chapter 1 Rear wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment). 3 Before removing anything, clean the brake assembly with brake cleaner (see illustration). Position a drain pan under the brake to catch .

the residue -

DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR TO BLOW THE DUST

FROI^ THE PARTS! 4 Compress the retainer spring pin 90-degrees to align tions).

Repeat

this

with a screwdriver

blade with the slot step on the other spnng. its

in

and

turn the tension

the spring (see illustra-

damage the

pistons (be careful not to juster

mechanism engages

boots). Also

Pass the tension pins through their holes

9

make sure that the ad-

with the shoes. in

the backing plate and se-

cure them with the retainer springs. Temporarily

1

install

the brake

drum and depress the brake

pedal. Re-

lease the pedal, remove the brake drum and venfy that the self adjuster

quadrant has moved on the ratchet (the marks the adjuster 11

Before

is

will

be out

of

alignment

if

functioning properly).

installing the

brake drum

it

should be checked for cracks,

score marks, deep scratches and hard spots, which

will

appear as small

removed with emery cloth or sandpaper, or any of the other conditions listed above exist, the drum must be taken to an automotive machine shop to have turned. Note: Professionals recommend resurfacing the drums whenever a brake job is perdiscolored areas.

If

the hard spots cannot be

if

it

formed. Resurfacing

will

eliminate the possibility rf out-of-round drums,

the drums are worn so much that they can

'f

be resurfaced without exceed ing the maximum allowable diameter (stamped or cast into the drum)(see illustration), then new ones will be required. At the very least, if you elect not to have the drums resurfaced, remove the glazing from the surface with emery cloth or sandpaper using a swirling motion. 1 Install the brake drum (Chapter 1 ). Install the wheel and lug nuts, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque specified in Chapter 1 1 Operate the parking brake several times and make a number of forward and reverse stops to adjust the shoes to the drum. t

1979 through 1982 models Refer

5

to illustrations

7. 6.

Pry the brake shoes

bly with the springs

still

7.

7 and

off of

in

7. 1

and remove the assemSet the assembly on a clean working

the wheel cylinder

position.

surface and unhook the return springs from the shoes, noting their positions (don't get

them mixed up)

1983 models Refer

to illustrations

714. 717.

7.18. 7.21. 7.22

and 7.27

To remove the brake shoes, pull the assembly down and over the spindle. Using a pair of diagonal cutting pliers, pull back on the parking brake cable spnng and squeeze the pliers just enough to gnp the cable. 1

4

9

212

Chapter 9

Brakes

I

7.4a 1

Exploded view of the drum brake assembly - 1 979 through 1 982 models

Chapter 9

213

Brakes

REAR BRAKE DRUM

REAR WHEEL BEARING CAP

UPPER RETURN SPRING

C^

SELF ADJUSTER SPRING

REAR BRAKE DRUM

7.4b

Exploded view of the rear drum brake assembly - 1983 models

7.4c Push down on the retainer spring with a screwdriver, then turn the tension pin to align Its blade with the slot in the retainer spring. Repeat this on the other spring

7.6

Lubricate the brake shoe contact areas on the backing plate with high temperature grease

214

Chapter 9

Back off the self-adjusting mechanism with a screwdriver. Scribe matchmarl^s on the ratchet and quadrant to checl< for proper adjuster movement

7.7

7.14

and

Pull the spring

back with a

Brakes

The maximum diameter

7.11

use the figure

pair of diagonal cutting pliers

grip the cable to hold the spring, then

7.17

unhook the cable (be

Remove the

in this

is

cast into tne

photo

arum -

typicai yaon

for a specification)

self adjuster lever

and spring from

the leading shoe

careful not to cut or nick the cable)

-^*i.

7.18 Pry open the parking brake lever retaining clip and separate the lever from the shoe. Be careful not to lose the wave washer that is

under the

clip

Insert the short clevis of the adjuster bolt into Its slot in the leading shoe, making sure it catches the self adjuster lever

7.21

i

The clevis on the other end of the adjuster bolt must fit into the slot in the trailing shoe. Notice the position of the stepped

7.22

215

Brakes

Chapter 9

The parking brake cable spring and the lower return spring must be seated t>ehind the anchor plate, as shown here

7.27

portion of the clevis opening

holding the spring

in

the

compressed position. Unhook the cable end from

Wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and

the parking brake lever (see illustration).

8

With the brake shoe assembly on a clean working surface, unhook the lower return spring from the shoes. Swing the parking brake lever away from the trailing shoe, which will 1

Note

installation

15

force the adjuster bolt clevis out of

its

groove on the shoe. The two shoes

can now be separated. 1

Remove the self adjuster lever and spring from the leading shoe (see

illustration). 1

at the

Pry open the parking brake lever retaining

clip

and separate the

same

time.

Removal

19 Assemble the lever to the new brake shoe, place the wave washer over the pin then install the retaining clip. Crimp the ends of the clip together with a pair of pliers. 20 Clean the adjuster bolt and clevis then lubricate the threads and ends with high temperature grease. 21 Connect the self adjuster lever spring to the leading brake shoe, then insert the pin on the lever into its hole in the shoe. Now, insert the short clevis of the adjuster bolt into its slot in the leading shoe, making sure it

self

If

lever

from the shoe (see illustration).

catches the

an overhaul is indicated (usually because of fluid leakage or sticky all options before beginning the job. New wheel cylinders are available, which makes this job quite easy. If it's decided to rebuild the wheel cylinder make sure that a rebuild kit is available before proceeding. Never overhaul only one wheel cylinder- always rebuild both of them :

operation) explore

adjuster lever (see illustration).

Refer

to illustration

8.4

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Block the front wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling. 2 Remove the brake shoe assembly (see Section 7). 3 Remove all dirt and foreign material from around the wheel cylinder. 4 Unscrew the brake line fitting (see illustration). Don't pull the brake line away from the wheel cylinder. 5 Remove the wheel cylinder mounting fasteners (see illustra1

tion 8.4).

22 Connect the upper return spring between the two shoes, pry the lower ends of the shoes apart and insert the clevis at the other end of the adjuster tX3lt into the slot in the shoe (see illustration). 23 Bring the lower ends of the shoes together and install the lower return spring.

Lubricate the brake shoe contact areas on the backing plate with high temperature grease (see illustration 7.6). 25 Compress the parking brake cable spring using the technique described in Step 1 4, hold it in that position and connect the cable end to the

24

9

parking brake lever.

26

Place the brake shoe assembly against the backing plate and slide

up, engaging the upper

ends

of the

shoes

into the slots in the

wheel

it

cylin-

der pistons. 27 With the brake shoes in position on the backing plate, pass the tension pins through the holes in the backing plate and brake shoes then install the retainer springs. Make sure that the partying brake cable spring and the lower return spring are seated behind the anchor plate (see illustration).

28 29 30

Before installing the brake drum, inspect it as described in Step 1 1 Install the brake drum (Chapter 1 ). Install the wheel and lug nuts, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug

in Chapter 1 Operate the pari30Ster mounting nuts to the

Operating check sure there

most automotive

in

shops. They are fairly complex and because of their critical relationship to brake performance it is best to replace a defective booster unit with a new

1

13

to illustration 13.

Power brake booster units should not be disassembled. They require

special tools not normally found

6

Place one end of

8

The brake booster pushrod is connected to the brake pedal with a clevis pin and retaining clip

13.7

Installation

specified torque. 1 If the power booster unit is being replaced, the clearance between the master cylinder piston and the output rod in the vacuum booster must be measured. Using a depth micrometer or vernier calipers, measure the distance from the seat (recessed area) in the master cylinder piston to the master cylinder mounting flange. Next, apply a vacuum of 20 in-Hg to the booster (using a hand vacuum pump) and measure the distance from the

9

220

Brakes

Chapter 9

Clearance The booster pushrod-to-master cylinder clearance must be as specified - if there is interference between the two, the brakes may drag; if there is too much clearance, there will be excessive brake pedal travel

13.14b To adjust the length of the booster pushrod (early models), hold the serrated portion of the rod with a pair of pliers and turn the adjusting screw in or out, as necessary, to achieve the desired setting

13.14a

ADJUSTER STAR LOCKNUT

PUSHROD LOCKNUT 14.4

To adjust the parking brake on 1982 and earlier models, on the cable end at the bottom of the

turn the adjuster nut

equalizer (arrow)

13.14c To adjust the length of the booster pushrod on later models, loosen the star locknut and turn the adjuster in or out, to obtain the proper clearance between the pushrod and the master cylinder piston

Parking brake- adjustment

14

end

vacuum booster pushrod

mounting face of the booster (including gasket, if used) where the master cylinder mounting flange seats. Subtract the two measurements to get the clearance (see illustraof the

tion).

If

the clearance

is

more

to the

or less than specified, turn the adjusting

screw on the pushrod (early models) or loosen the star locknut and turn the adjuster (later models) until the clearance is within the specified limit (see illustrations). After adjustment, tighten the locknut. 1

A second method

to

measure the pushrod-to-piston clearance

is

to

vacuum booster with a small piece of modeling clay placed on the end of the pushrod. Make sure the gasket is in place when making this trial fit. Remove the master cylinder and measure install

the master cylinder to the

the resulting impression specification. This

left in

the clay. Again adjust as

method may

needed to meet the

require several trial-and-error fits to reach

the proper clearance.

master cylinder and brake hoses and brake pedal height and free play must be adjusted and the system must be bled. See Chapter 1 and the appropriate Sections of this Chapter for the procedures. 1

After the final installation of the

lines, the

Refer to 1

illustration 14.4

Block the front wheels, raise the rear of the vehicle and support

curely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake lever

until

it

se-

you hear one

click.

Refer to Chapter 1 1 and remove the console trim around the parking brake lever (1983 through 1987 models). 3 Remove the parking brake equalizer cover plate to gain access to the equalizer (1988 and later models). 4 Turn the adjuster nut on the equalizer (see illustration) clockwise while rotating the rear wheels. Stop turning the nut when the brakes )ust 2

drag on the rear wheels. Release the parking brake lever and check to see that the brakes don't drag when the rear wheels are turned. The travel on the parking brake lever should be as listed in the Specifications when properly adstart to

5

justed.

6 trim,

Lower the vehicle and where removed.

reinstall

the equalizer cover plate or console

Chapter 9

12

mm

Brakes

221

OFFSET

WRENCH

15.11

Parking brake cables and related components - 1983 and later models

1

Parking brake cables - replacement

15

Installation is the reverse of the

removal procedure, then adjust the

parking brake following the procedure

in

Section 14.

1983 and later models 1

port

Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts, raise the rear of the vehicle and supsecurely on jackstands. Remove the wheels. Block the front wheels

it

to prevent the vehicle

from

rolling.

1979 through 1982 models Front cable 2

3

Remove the trim around the parking brake lever (Chapter 11). Remove the cotter pin and pull out the clevis pin to disconnect

cable from the

4

may be necesPush the cable and grommet grommet out with a screwdriver. Unscrew the cable adjusting nut from the end of the cable. Unbolt the cable support brackets and remove the cable from the vethrough the floorpan.

Installation is the

as outlined

in

1

On models with rear disc brakes, remove the clip and clevis to discon-

rear drum brakes, remove the brake shoes and disconnect the cable end from the lever on the trailing brake shoe (see Section 7). Depress the tangs on the cable casing retainer and pass the cable through the brake backing plate (this can be accomplished by passing a 1 mm box end wrench over the end of the cable and onto the retainer, which will compress the tangs inward all at once) (see illustration).

nect the cable end from the actuator lever on the caliper, then remove the

reverse of the removal procedure. Adjust the cable

Section 14.

Rear cable(s)

tion 15.11).

13

From

inside the vehicle

cable with the slot

in

remove the equalizer cover

the equalizer and push the cable

plate, align the

down

to free

it.

Push the cable and grommet down through the floorpan. may be necessary to pry the grommet out with a screwdriver. 1 Unbolt the cable clamps from the undert)Ody, noting how the cable is routed, then remove the cable from the underbody. both cables are to be removed, repeat the above steps to the re16 14

It

If

Unbolt the equalizer, which is bolted to the underside of the vehicle, between the two rear wheels. Turn the inner end of the cable to align it with the slot in the equalizer, then pass the cable out through the slot.

Disconnect the other end

spring clip to free the cable casing from the support bracket (see illustra-

It

8

9

On models with

the

hicle.

7

to illustration 15.11

1

lever.

sary to pry the

5 6

Refer

of the

cable using the

same

technique.

maining cable. 17 Installation

is

the reverse of the removal procedure, but after the

cable(s) are installed, be sure to adjust

described

in

Section 14.

them according

to the

procedure

-m 9

222

Chapter 9

Brakes Installation

16

Brake

light

switch - removal, Installation and adjustment

3

and adjustment

Installation of the

brake

light

switch

is

the reverse of the removal pro-

cedure.

4

Removal Disconnect the electrical connector from the switch, located under the dash, near the top of the brake pedal arm. Remove the locknut on the pedal side of the switch and unscrew the 2 switch from the bracket. 1

To adjust the switch, back

switch and screw the switch

off

the locknut on the connector side of the

in until

the plunger at the

end

is

completely

depressed by the brake pedal. 5

Unscrew the switch one-half

6

Verify the

when

brake

the pedal

is

lights

turn

and

tighten the locknut.

operate when the pedal

released.

is

depressed and go off

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems Contents

- replacement - removal and installation stabilizer bar and bushings - removal and

Balljoints

6

Front radius rod

3

Front

Front strut/shock absorber and

coil

- removal,

overhaul and installation Four-wheel steering - general information Front suspension lower arm - removal and installation Front suspension upper arm - removal and installation General information

Power Power Power Power

steering

7

23 4 5

pump - removal and installation speed sensor - removal and installation

steering system

- replacement gear- removal, installation and adjustment Steering knuckle and hub assembly - removal and installation Steering gear boots Steering

1

See Chapter

steering fluid level check steering

2

installation

spring assembly

Rear strut/shock absorber and coil spring assembly - removal, overhaul and installation 14 Rear suspension lower arm - removal and installation 11 Rear suspension upper arm - removal and installation 13 Rear wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment (1979 through 1987 models) See Chapter 1 Rear wheel hub carrier - removal and installation 12

- bleeding

Rear knuckle and hub assembly (wheel bearings) - removal and installation Rear radius arm or rod - removal and installation Rear stabilizer bar and bushings - removal and installation

1

Steering wheel - removal and installation

20 21

Steering and suspension check

22

Tie-rod ends Tire

15 10 9

and

tire

- removal and

installation

pressure checks

Tire rotation

Wheel alignment - general Wheels and tires - general

information information

19 17 ... 8 16 See Chapter 1 18 See Chapter 1 See Chapter 1

24 25

Specifications

10

Steering Steering wheel free play (measured at rim)

0.4

in

(10.0

mm) maximum

Steering effort (measured with spring scale)

Manual (front of vehicle supported on jackstands) Power (front wheels on a clean, dry surface) 1979 through 1982 1983 on

Torque specifications

3.3 lbs or less

6 lbs or less

4

lbs or less

Ft-ibs

Front suspension Stabilizer bar-to-lower

arm

bolts

Stabilizer bar U-bracket bolts

(1982 and

eariier

models)

32 28

224

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

Torque specifications (continued)

Ft-ibs

Radius rod-to-frame nut 1983 through 1987 1988 on Radius rod-to-lower arm bolts 1 983 through 1 987 1988 on

32 54 40 47 40

Lower arm pivot bolt Lower arm-to-steering knuckle balljoint stud nut 1 982 and earlier 1 983 and later Upper arm-to-body nuts 1 983 through 1 987 1988 on Upper arm balljoint stud nut upper arm balljoinf-to-arm bolts Upper arm pivot shaft nut

33 40

Strut/shock absorber-to-steering knuckle bolt absorber/coil spring assembly-to-damper fork bolt Strut/shock absorber upper mounting nut (1982 and earlier)

Shock

.... Strut/shock absorber spring seat nut (1982 and earlier) Shock absorber/coil spring upper mounting nuts (1 983 and later) Shock absorber/coil spring assembly .

spring seat nut (1983 and later)

Damper

fork-to-lower

arm

bolt (1

983 and

60 53 32 40 40 40 32 33 16

29 22 47

later)

Rear suspension Radius Radius Radius Radius Radius 1982

arm-to-frame bracket bolt arm front bushing bolts arm-to-hub carrier cam bolt nut arm-to-hub carrier outer bolt

64 16

40 74

rod-to-frame bracket

through 1987 988 on Radius rod-to-lower arm (1 988 on) Lower arm-to-hub carrier 1 982 and earlier 1983 through 1987 Lower arm pivot bolt 1982 through 1987 1 988 on Two-wheel steering

47 32 40

1

40 60

40 61

Four-wheel steering Strut/shock absorber-to-hub carrier pinch bolt (1979 through 1987) Strut/shock absorber upper mounting nuts (1 979 through 1 987) .

.

Shock absorber/coil spring upper mounting nuts (1988 on)

33 40 16

28

Strut/shock absorber spring seat nut

982 and earlier 983 through 1 987 Shock absorber/coil spring assembly spring seat nut (1988 on) Shock absorber/coil spring assembly-to-lower arm bolt (1 988 on) Lower arm-to-rear knuckle balljoint stud nut (1988 on) Upper arm-to-frame bolts (1988 on) Upper arm balljoint-to-arm (1988 on) Upper arm-to-rear knuckle balljoint stud nut(1988 on) Rear tie-rod (four wheel steering) or rear lower arm(two wheel steering)-to-rear knuckle (1988 on)

24 40

1 1

.

.

21

47 40 57 40 32 32

Steering Steering wheel nut

36

Steering shaft U-joint pinch bolt

987 and earlier 1988 on Steering gear mounting bracket 1 987 and earlier 1 988 on

22

1

16 bolts

Tie-rod end-to-steering knuckle nut (front or rear)

16

29 32

Chapter 10

225

Suspension and steering systems

hub asThe stabilizer bar on 1982 and earlier models prevents fore-and-aft movement of the lower arm. as well as limiting body roll. The rear suspension on 982 and earlier models consists of a radius arm, a lower arm and a stabilizer bar spring assembly (which also supports the steenng knuckle and

1

General information

sembly), a lower arm and a stabilizer bar (see illustration).

1

Refer to

illustrations 1.2a. 1.2b, 1.2c, 1.3

and

1.4

The vehicles covered by this manual, while similar in some respects, can be divided into three groups: The 1982 and earlier models, 1983 through 1987 models, and 1988 and later models. The early models utilize a Macpherson strut style suspension front and rear. The front suspension is comprised of a strut/shock absorber/coil

(see Illustration). 1983 to 1987 models are similar, but use a radius rod in place of the larger, pressed steel arm (see illustration). In 1 983, these vehicles underwent a major change m suspension design. The vehicle is suspended at the front by what at first appears to be a (vlacpherson strut assembly, but is actually only a shock absorber/coil

10

0/57H

1

1

Lower arm

.2a

Details of the front

suspension - 1 982 and

earlier

models

txilt

2 3

Stabilizer bar

4

Stabilizer

Boot bushing

5 6 7

Lower arm bushing Lower arm Stabilizer

bushing

8 9 10

Balljoint clip

guide

Front splash shield

Boot

clip

226

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

Details of the rear suspension - 1982

1.2b

1

and

earlier

models

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

227

SELF-LOCKING NUT

SELF- LOCKING BOLT

LOWER ARM

RADIUS ROD ADJUSTING

SELF-LOCKING NUT

SPINDLE NUT RADIUS ROD ADJUSTING BOLT

RADIUS ROD

BRAKE DISC 0IS9H

1.2c

Details of the rear

suspension -1983 through 1987 models

10 and extension, or"cheater," pipes will increase leverage, but never use an extension pipe on a ratchet - the ratcheting mechanism could be damaged. Sometimes, turning the nut or bolt in the tightening (clockwise) direction first will help to break it loose. Fasteners that require drastic measures to unscrew should always be replaced with new ones. Since most of the procedures that are dealt with in this chapter involve jacking up the vehicle and working underneath it, a good pair of jackstands will be needed. A hydraulic floor jack is the preferred type of jack to lift the vehicle, and it can also be used to support certain components during vaner bars

ous operations. Warning: Never, under any circumstances,

rely on a jack tosupportthe vehicle while workingonlt. Whenever any of the suspension or steering fasteners are loosened or removed they must be inspected

new ones of the same part number or and design. Torque specifications must be followed for proper reassembly and component retention. Never attempt to heat or straighten any suspension or steering components. Instead, replace any bent or damaged part with a new one. and.

if

necessary, be replaced with

of original equipment quality

228

Chapter 10

Suspension and steering systems

c t o

p p •

cc

jc V,

5 iQj

53

w

o

-c

:3

c

3 J y qj qj

c:

-K O) O) O) D) O)

Q.

c c c C C C

fg

^

P

Q

0)

0) QJ

0} 9)

CO 55 05

2

O

Q)

"^

"I

CO QC ~j CO

w

N

olts except the 1

to illustration 18.9

Loosen the screw, remove the control knob and pry off the cover panel

(see illustration). 1

17

Installation is the reverse of removal.

1983 on

1

2

Trunk

19

lid

- removal,

installation

and adjustment

1

Refer

one closest to the upper forward corner of the door. Loosen this bolt only. Withdraw the regulator mechanism through the access hole. On power

2

window models, unplug

trunk

5

the electrical connector.

Prior to installation, lubricate

grease. Installation

is

all

contact surfaces with multi-purpose

the reverse of removal.

to illustration 19.4

Open the trunk lid and cover the edges of the trunk compartment with pads or cloths to protect the painted surfaces when the lid is removed. 1

3

Disconnect any cables or wire harness connectors attached to the lid that would interfere with removal. Scribe or paint alignment marks around the hinge bolt mounting

flanges.

SCREWS 18.9

Exterior mirror installation details (later

models)

11 KNOe COVER PANEL

REAR VIEW MIRROR

254

Chapter

Body

11

STRIKER

HINGE BRACKET

L

TORS

19.4

4

While an assistant supports the trunk

lid,

Typical trunk

lid

Installation

20

the surrounding panels. Fore-and-aft and side-toside adjustments of the

the

lift

it

off

if

lid

are controlled by the position of the hinge bolts

loosen the hinge 7

The height

bolts, reposition the

of the

lid in

relation to

and adjustment

details

remove the hinge bolts from

(see illustration). 5 Installation is the reverse of removal. Note: When reinstalling the trunk lid, align the hinge bolt flanges with the marks made during removal. After installation, close the lid and see it's in proper alignment with 6

both sides and

MOUNTING NUTS

in

the slots. To adjust

it,

and retighten the bolts. the surrounding body panels when lid

Center console - removal and Installation

Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. Place the cable out of it cannot accidentally come in contact with the negative terminal of the battery, as this would once again allow power into the electrical 1

way so

system 2

of the vehicle.

Remove Remove

the shift handle or knob.

bolts, repositioning

3

the striker and retightening the bolts. Adjusting shims (available at your

4

the retaining screws or bolts. Detach the console and lift it from the vehicle.

between the hinge and trunk lid can also be used to adjust

5

Installation is the reverse of removal.

closed can be adjusted by loosening the lock striker dealer) inserted height.

Chapter

255

Body

11

Run or Start positions. A chime should also sound. The seat belts are designed to lock up during a sudden stop or impact, allow free movement during normal driving. Check that the retractors

turned to the

21

Seat belt check

3 yet

return the belt against your chest while driving 1

Check the seat

vious

2

damage and

Check

belts, buckles, latch plates

and guide loops

for ob-

signs of wear.

that the seat belt reminder light

comes on when

the key

is

when

the buckle

4

any

If

of the

is

and rewind the

belt fully

unlatched.

above checks reveal problems with the seat belt system,

replace parts as necessary.

11

Chapter 12

Chassis

electrical

system

Contents Antenna - removal and installation Battery check and maintenance Battery - removal and installation

9

See Chapter 1 See Chapter 5

Bulb replacement Brake light switch - removal, installation

12

and adjustment Circuit breakers - general information Cruise control system - description and check Electrical troubleshooting - general information Fuses - general information Fusible links - general information

See Chapter 9 5 17 2

3 4

General information

1

Headlights - adjustment

10

- removal and installation Instrument cluster - removal and installation Neutral start switch - check, replacement and adjustment Power door lock system - description and check Power window system - description and check Relays - general information Steering wheel and column switches - removal and installation Windshield wiper motor - removal and installation Wiring diagrams - general information

Before tackling any troublesome electrical circuit,

components not associated

with the engine.

priate wiring

diagrams

down by

noting

Chapter 5. It should be noted that when portions of the electrical system are serviced, the negative battery cable should be disconnected from the battery

properiy

If

to

in

prevent electrical shorts and/or

Electrical troubleshooting

2

A

fires.

- general information

typical electrical circuit consists of

an

electrical

component, any

switches, relays, motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers related to that

component and

the wiring

and connectors

to get

See Chapter 7B 15 16 6 7 13 18

that link the

component to

if

several

first

circuit

study the appro-

what makes up can often be narrowed

a complete understanding

that individual circuit. Trouble spots, for instance,

Information on the battery, alternator, distributor and starter motor can

be found

14

both the battery and the chassis. To help you pinpoint an electrical problem, wiring diagrams are included at the end of this book.

This Chapter covers repair and service procedures for the various electrical

8

Ignition switch

11

General information

1

Headlights - removal and installation

of

other components related to the circuit are operating

components or circuits fail at one time, chances are the

a fuse or ground connection, because several circuits are often routed through the same fuse and ground connections. Electrical problems usually stem from simple causes, such as loose or corroded connections, a blown fuse, a melted fusible link or a bad relay. Visually inspect the condition of all fuses, wires and connections in a problem circuit before troubleshooting it. If testing instruments are going to be utilized, use the diagrams to plan ahead of time where you will make the necessary connections in order to

problem

is in

accurately pinpoint the trouble spot.

The basic

tools

needed

tester or voltmeter (a

1

2- volt

for electncal

troubleshooting include a circuit

bulb with a set of test leads can also be used),

Chapter 12

Chassis

a continuity tester, which includes a bulb, battery and set of test leads, and a jumper wire, preferably with a circuit breaker incorporated, which can be used to bypass electrical components. Before attempting to locate a problem with test instruments, use the wiring diagram(s) to decide where to

make

the connections.

electrical

necting the continuity tester to the switch terminals. With the switch turned

On, the

test light

Voltage checks should be performed

a circuit is not functioning propConnect one lead of a circuit tester to either the negative battery terminal or a known good ground. Connect the other lead to a connector in if

erly.

the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to the battery or fuse. of the tester lights, voltage

is

present, which

If

the bulb

means that the part of the cir-

between the connector and the battery is problem free. Continue checking the rest of the circuit in the same fashion. When you reach a point at which no voltage is present, the problem lies between that point and the cuit

last test point with voltage. Most of the time the problem can be traced to a loose connection. Note: Keep in mind that some circuits receive voltage only when the ignition key is in the Accessory or Run position.

should

come

on.

Finding an open circuit When diagnosing for possible open circuits, them by

Voltage checks

257

system

it

is

often

difficult to

locate

because oxidation or terminal misalignment are hidden by the connectors. Merely wiggling a connector on a sensor or in the wiring harness may correct the open circuit condition. Rememt>er this when an open circuit is indicated when troubleshooting a circuit. Intermittent problems may also be caused by oxidized or loose connections. Electrical troubleshooting is simple you keep in mind that all electrical sight

if

circuits are basically electricity

running from the battery, through the wires,

component (light and to ground, from which is passed back to the battery. problem is an interruption in the flow of electricity to and from

switches, relays, fuses and fusible links to each electncal bulb, motor, etc.)

Any electrical

it

the battery.

Fuses -general information

3

Finding a short One method of finding shorts in a circuit is to remove the fuse and connect a test

light

or voltmeter

be no voltage present

in

the

in its

ground somewhere through. cuit,

The same

in

Move the wiring harness from side-to-

circuit.

side while watching the test

light.

If

the bulb goes on, there

is

a short to

where the insulation has rubbed can be performed on each component in the cir-

that area, probably

test

even a switch.

Ground checli Perform a ground test to check whether a component is property grounded. Disconnect the battery and connect one lead of a self powered test light, known as a continuity tester, to a known good ground. Connect the other lead to the wire or ground connection being tested. If the bulb goes on. the ground is good. If the bulb does not go on. the ground is not good.

if there are any breaks in a cirpassing electricity properly. With the circuit off (no power in the circuit), a self-powered continuity tester can be used to check the circuit. Connect the test leads to both ends of the circuit (or to the "power" end

-

if it

is

and a good ground), and current properly. in

the

circuit.

If

if

the test light

the circuit

is

passing

a break somewhere procedure can be used to test a switch, by con-

the light doesn't

The same

comes on

come on,

there

is

3.3a The fuse box on early models is located on the Instrument panel and swings down for access to the glass tube fuses within

to illustrations

The

3.3a

and 3.3b

electrical circuits of the vehicle are protected

by a combination of

and fusible links. The fuse block is located under the instrument panel on the left side of the dashboard. Each of the fuses is designed to protect a specific circuit, and the various circuits are identified on the fuse panel itself. Two types of fuses are incorporated, depending on the date of manufacture. Early models (see illustration) use a glass tube design where the metal element inside can be readily seen for checking. Miniaturized fuses are employed in the fuse block on later models. These compact fuses, with blade terminal design, allow fingertip removal and replacement. an electrical component fails, always check the fuse first. A blown fuses, circuit breakers

If

fuse

is

easily identified through the clear plastic body. Visually inspect the

evidence of damage (see illustration). If a continuity check the blade terminal tips are exposed in the fuse body. Be sure to replace blown fuses with the correct type. Fuses of different ratings are physically interchangeable, but only fuses of the proper rating should be used. Replacing a fuse with one of a higher or lower value than specified is not recommended. Each electrical circuit needs a specific amount of protection. The amperage value of each fuse is molded into the

element is

Continuity checli A continuity check is done to determine

cuit

Refer

place to the fuse terminals. There should

called

for

for.

fuse body. If the replacement fuse immediately fails, don't replace it again until the cause of the problem is isolated and corrected. In most cases, the cause will be a short circuit in the wiring caused by a broken or deteriorated wire.

3.3b for

To test for a blown miniature fuse, pull it out and inspect it an open (1), then, with the circuit activated, use a test light across the terminals (2)

258

Chapter 12

Chassis

electrical

The various

system

grouped together in several locations. If a faulty can be removed and tested by a dealer service department or a repair shop. Defective relays must be replaced as a unit. relay

7

is

relays are

suspected,

it

Steering wheel and column switches - removal

and

Refer

installation

to illustrations 7.2

and

7.

Disconnect the negative cable

at the battery. Place the cable out of cannot accidentally come in contact with the negative terminal of the battery, as this would once again allow power into the electrical system of the vehicle. 1

the

way so

it

Cruise control switches 2 Remove the retaining screws located on the back side of the steering wheel and lift off the horn cover (see illustration). Unplug the electrical connector, remove the retaining screws and lift 3

A

fusible link located near the battery in the engine

off

compartment

4

the switch. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Fusible links - general information

4

Refer

Combination switcli

to illustration 4.

Some circuits are

protected by fusible

links.

The

used in circircuit and are lo-

links are

which are not ordinarily fused, such as the ignition cated in the engine compartment (see illustration). Although the fusible links appear to be a heavier gauge than the wire they are protecting, the appearance is due to the thick insulation. All fusible links are four wire gauges smaller than the wire they are designed to cuits

5 6

7 8

Remove the steering wheel (Chapter 0). Remove the lower steering column upper and lower covers. Remove the retaining screws and the switch off (see illustration). 1

lift

Disconnect the switch wiring connector from the wiring harness and remove the combination switch from the vehicle.

9

Installation is the

8

Ignition switch

reverse of removal.

protect.

Fusible links cannot be repaired, but a

can be put a) b) c)

The procedure

new

link of

the

same size wire

as follows: Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Disconnect the fusible link from the wiring harness. Cut the damaged fusible link out of the wiring just behind the conin its

place.

is

nector.

back approximately 1/2-inch. on the new fusible link and crimp

d)

Strip the insulation

e)

Position the connector

Refer It

into

place.

Use

t)

rosin core solder at

solder g)

h)

each end

of the

new

link to

obtain a

good

No

wires

to illustrations

installation

8.5a and 8.5b

Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. Place the cable out of the way so it cannot accidentally come In contact with the negative terminal of the battery, as this would once again allow power into the electncal 1

system

joint.

- removal and

of the vehicle.

should be exposed.

3

On some models will be necessary Remove the steering column covers.

Connect the battery ground cable. Test the circuit for proper opera-

4

Unplug the switch

Use

plenty of electrical tape around the soldered

joint.

2

it

to

remove the

steering wheel.

electrical connector.

tion.

5

Circuit breakers

1979 through 1982

- general information

Use a punch and hammer to make an indentation in the heads of the shear-headed retaining screws (see illustrations) Drill out the screws with a 3/8-in dnil bit and detach the switch and cap 6 from the steering column. 7 Place the new switch (without the key inserted) in position, making sure the projection on the lock fits in the hole in the steering column, and install the new shear-head screws hand tight 8 Insert the key and check that the switch operates smoothly In all positions. Tighten the screws until the heads shear off. 5

Circuit

breakers protect components such as power windows, power

door locks and headlights. On some models the circuit breaker resets itself automatically, so an electrical overload in a circuit breaker protected system will cause the circuit to fail momentarily, then come back on. If the circuit does not come back on, check immediately. Once the condition is corrected, the circuit breaker will resume its normal function. Some circuit breakers must be reit

set manually.

6

Relays - general information Several electrical accessories

electrical signal to the will

component.

not operate properly.

in If

the vehicle use relays to transmit the the relay

is

defective, that

component

1983 on On these models the ignition switch must be removed or installed with

9

in the Lock position. If the switch key and turn the switch to Lock

the switch ignition

is

not

in th'o position, insert

the

Chapter 12

Chassis

system

electrical

7.2

Steering wheel

259

mounted switch

details

HORN PLATE CONfTACT PLATE

HORN COVER

BODf CCVER

^®

S»

TURN SIGNAL CANCEL SLEEVE

COLUMN UPPER COVER

CRUISE CONTROL SLIP RING

12 COLUMN LOWER COVER 7.7

Combination switch

8.5a installation details

After

removing the steering column covers the

switch and

its

shear bolts (arrows) are visible

ignition

260

Chapter 12

Chassis

electrical

system

ANTENNA

PUNCH Use a punch and a hammer

8.5b

shear headed bolts, then

drill

to make an indentation in the the bolts out with a 3/8 inch bit

Remove the two retaining screws and

1

lift

the switch from the steering

column. Installation is the reverse of removal.

11

switch

aligned with the projection on the

is

Make sure the recess on the lock when placing the switch in

9.3 After first attaching a string or wire to the lead to make the job of installing the new one easier, remove the antenna screws and pull the assembly out of the body pillar

6 7

Remove

the headlight.

To

the headlight, plug the connector

install

position

8

and

install

in,

place the headlight

in

the retainer and screws. Tighten the screws securely.

Place the headlight bezel

in

position

and

install

the retaining screws.

position.

All

models

12

Plug

in

Headlights - adjustment

11

the electrical connector and

install

any components which Refer

were removed.

to illustration 11.1

r/ie headlights must be aimed correctly. If adjusted incorrectly they could blind the driver of an oncoming vehicle and cause a serious accident

Note

9

Antenna - removal and

Refer

or seriously reduce your ability to see the road. The headlights should be installation

to illustration 9.3

Disconnect the negative cable

at the battery. Place the cable out of cannot accidentally come in contact with the negative terminal of the battery, as this would once again allow power into the electrical system of the vehicle. 2 Disconnect the antenna lead at the radio. Connect a piece of string or thin wire to the antenna lead or cable, re3 move the mounting screws and pull the antenna and lead out of the body pillar (see illustration). 4 Fasten the wire or string to the lead or cable of the new antenna. Lower the antenna into place while pulling the new lead through into the pillar. Connect the antenna lead to the radio and install the antenna retain5 1

the

way so

it

ing screws.

10

On

2

nal of the battery,

system 3

as

this

would once again allow power

into the electrical

of the vehicle.

Remove the retaining screws and detach the headlight bezel. Remove the headlight retainer screws, taking care not to disturb the

4 adjustment screws. Remove the retainer and 5 connector to be unplugged.

pull the

headlight out

checked for proper aim every 12 months and any time a new headlight is installed or front end body work is performed. It should be emphasized that the following procedure is only an interim step which will provide temporary adjustment until the headlights can be adjusted by a properly equipped shop. 1 Headlights have two spring loaded adjusting screws, one on the bottom controlling vertical movement and one on the side controlling horizontal

enough

to allow the

movement (see

illustration).

There are several methods of adjusting the headlights. The simplest method requires a blank wall 25 feet in front of the vehicle and a level floor. Position masking tape vertically on the wall in reference to the vehicle 3 centeriine and the centeriines of both headlights (see illustration). 4 Position a horizontal tape line in reference to the centeriine of all the headlights. Note: // may be easier to position the tape on the wall with the vehicle parked only a few inches away. 5 Adjustment should be made with the vehicle sitting level, the gas tank half-full and no unusually heavy load in the vehicle. 2

6

Headlights - removal and installation

retractable headlight models, raise the headlights. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Place the cable out of the way so it cannot accidentally come in contact with the negative termi1

:

Starting with the low

beam

adjustment, position the high intensity

two inches below the horizontal line and two inches to the right of the headlight vertical line. Adjustment is made by turning the bottom adjusting screw clockwise to raise the beam and counterclockwise to lower the beam. The adjusting screw on the side should be used in the same

zone so

it

manner

to

7

is

move

beam left or right. beams on, the high intensity zone should be vertically

the

With the high

centered with the exact center just below the horizontal line. Note: It may not be possible to position the headlight aim exactly for both high and low beams. If a compromise must be made, keep in mind that the low beams are the most used and have the greatest effect on driver safety. Have the headlights adjusted by a dealer service department or ser-

8

vice station at the earliest opportunity

Chapter 12

Chassis

electrical

261

system

TO

REPLACE BULB ONLY.

REMOVE LENS FROM OUTSIDE

11.1

On

remove the bezel for access to the adjusting screws

retractable headlights,

12.1

A

Horizontal adjusting screw

B

Vertical adjusting

License plate bulb replacement details

screw

/f'^v?*^

262

Chapter 12

Chassis

system

electrical

13.5

remove the and lift the wiper motor from the engine compartment

After unplugging the electrical connector,

retaining bolts (arrows)

of the

housing which can be pried out with a flat bladed screwdriver for ac-

cess.

Remove the

1 1

instrument cluster retaining screws.

Squeeze the tab on speedome-

the speedometer cable-to-speedometer collar and detach the ter

from the cable.

tors

and

Air

scoop and hood

seal replacement details

Pull the cluster out,

unplug the wiring harness connec-

the cluster from the vehicle.

Power door lock system - description and check

15

13.3

lift

The power door lock system operates the door lock actuators mounted each door The system consists of the switches, actuators and associated wiring. Since special tools and techniques are required to diagnose the system, it should be left to a dealer service department or a repjair shop. However, is possible for the home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring connections and actuators for minor faults which can be easily repaired. These include: a) Check the system fuse and/or circuit breaker. b) Check the switch wires for damage and loose connections. Check in

it

Instrument cluster - removal and installation

14

1

the

Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. Place the cable out of it cannot accidentally come in contact with the negative termi-

nal of the battery, as this

system 2

3

the switches for continuity.

way so

would once again allow power

Remove

and check the actuator wiring connecdamaged. Inspect the actuator rods (if equipped) to make sure they aren't bent or damaged. Inspect the actuator wiring for damaged or loose connections. The actuator can be checked by applying battery power momentarily. A discern-

c)

into the electrical

tions to

of the vehicle.

Remove Remove

the steering steering wheel (Chapter

1

0).

the steering column covers.

1979 through 1982 4

they're loose or

ible click indicates that the

solenoid

is

operating properly.

front of the vehicle to

Power window system - description and check

16

Detach the bezel and remove

it

from the cluster and instrument panel.

Remove the cluster retaining bolts. Reach up behind the cluster, 6 grasp the collar on the speedometer cable securely and push it toward the disconnect the cable from the speedometer. Pull the

cluster out, unplug the wiring connectors

and remove the cluster from the

instrument panel.

7

if

Remove the four cluster bezel retaining screws located along the top

of the bezel housing.

5

the door panel(s)

see

Installation is the reverse of removal.

The power window system operates the electric motors mounted in the doors which lower and raise the windows The system consists of the control switches, the motors (regulators), glass mechanisms and associated wiring.

Because of the complexity of the power window system and the speand techniques required for diagnosis, repair should be left to a

cial tools

dealer service department or a repair shop. However,

1983 on On later models, remove the instrument cluster switches by inserting a thin, flat bladed screwdriver in the groove in the base of each switch to disengage them, then pull the switches out and unplug the connectors. Remove the dashboard lower panel On some models it will be neces9 8

.

sary to lower the steering column for access. 1

er.

it

is

possible for the

home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring connections and mo-

Remove the retaining screws and detach the instrument cluster covOn later models the two rear screws are located under caps at the back

tors for

minor

faults

which can be easily repaired. These include: window actuating switches for broken wires and

a)

Inspect the power

b)

Check

c)

Remove

loose connections.

power window fuse/and or circuit breaker. and check the power window motor wires to see they're loose or damaged. Inspect the glass mechanisms for damage which could cause binding. the

the door panel(s) if

Chapter 12

Chassis

electrical

the hoses

Cruise control system - description and check

17

The cruise control system maintains

vehicle speed with a

vacuum

the engine compartment for tight connections, cracks

in

nected

by a cable. The system consists of the servo

is

leaks.

ac-

tuated servo motor located to the throttle linkage

in

and obvious vacuum

the engine compartment, which

263

system

con-

18

Wiring diagrams - general information

motor, clutch switch, brake switch, control switches, a relay and associated

vacuum hoses.

er service

department or a repair shop. However,

it

Is

possible for the

home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring and vacuum connections for minor faults which

can be easily repaired. These include: broken wires and

a) Inspect the cruise control actuating switches for

loose connections. b) c)

possible to include all winng diagrams for every year covmanual, the following diagrams are those that are typical and most commonly needed. Prior to troubleshooting any circuits, check the fuse and circuit breakers (if equipped) to make sure they're In good condition. Make sure the battery is properly charged and check the cable connections (Chapter 1 ). When checking a circuit, make sure that all connectors are clean, with no broken or loose terminals. When unplugging a connector, do not pull on the wires. Pull only on the connector housings themselves. Refer to the accompanying table for the wire codes applicable to your

Since

Because of the complexity of the cruise control system and the special tools and techniques required for diagnosis, repair should be left to a deal-

Check the cruise control fuse. The cruise control system is operated by vacuum so its critical that all vacuum switches, hoses and connections are secure. Check

ered by

It

isn't

this

vehicle.

Wiring diagrams begin on next page

12

264

Chapter 12

WIRE COLOR CODE

Chassis

electrical

system

Chapter 12

Chassis

electrical

265

system

ALTf BITATOR

3o^

ILLUMES nsuvt

VOITACE IGNITION

BTWSS

SOlENOlO

SOLENOID

'

RtCumOB

miMARvfUEL IcuTOfF SOUNOIDS

IGNITION

SOLENOID

HALS MTl

SEAT lElT

AT POSITION NDlCA'OO

'^y^

moiCATon LIGHT

It

m

I

SWITCH

HORIIS

READOIIIOOM OEfXOSIES

gj/

(^

SWITCH

SWIT

D(3)(J)(|)

aEfOOSTER ON llCMT.t

L

TU**

IKDICATOB liCNTII

jm

R TUDII IIIOICATOII

LIGHT

II

Ml

1979 to 1980, except 1980 automatic transmission California models (continued)

W

Chapter 12

266

WIRE COLOR CODE

Chassis

electrical

system

Chapter 12

Chassis

electrical

system

267

Mllll Fuses

AlTERNATOa

i + IDTTEII

^ (—•

—

fUfl

I

Hftf

ma® I

Jib.

PH"'""'

Ol.T»C(

SIC

se«T

SD'CA-C

KIT

BSCUIATOO

ZL-i

pfo '59 thru '77

'68 thai '78

FORD

CHRYSLER

•2020

1 24 Sport Coupe & Spider X1/9 all models '74 thaj '80

'2035

Buick Century, Chevrolet Celebrity, Oidsmobile Cutlass Ciera & Pontiac 6000 all models -82 thai 93 Buick Skyhawk, Cadillac Cimarron, Chevrolet Cavalier, Oldsmobile Rrenza & Pontiac J-2000 & Sunbird all models -82 thai '92 Buick Skylark & Somerset, Oldsmobile Calais & Pontiac Grand Am all models '85 thru '91 Buick Regal, Chevrolet Lumina, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme & Pontiac Grand Prix all front wheel dnve models 88 thru 90 Chevrolet Lumina APV, Oldsmobile Silhouette & Pontiac Trans Sport all models '90 thru '92

GEO '2039

Metro - see CHEVROLET Sprint (1727) Prizm - see CHEVROLET Nova (1642) Storm all models '90 thai '93 Tracker - see SUZUKI Sawursi (1626)

GMC Safari

-

see

CHEVROLET ASTPO (1477) - see CHEVROLET

Vans & Pick-ups

(420. 831. 345. 1664)

-

449 550

V8 models '59 thai 87 Chevette & Pontiac T1000 '76 Citation all models '80 thru '85

Ustings

shown with an

asterisk

EAGLE

thru '87

Talon

(Continued on other side) -

see Mitsubishi Eclipse (2097)

n indicate model coverage as of this pnnting. Haynes dealer

Haynes North America,

Inc.,

These

for

more

titles will

be penodicalty updated

to include later

model years

-

consult your

information.

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park,

CA

91320

•

(805)

498-6703

HAYNES AUTOMOTIVE MANUALS NOTE: New manuals

are

added

to this

list

on a periodic

basis.

If

you do not see a

listing for

your

vehicle,

consult your local Haynes dealer for the latest product information.

HONDA 2067 160 633 297 1227 •601

SAAB

NISSAN

Accord CVCC all models 76 thru '83 Accord all models '84 thru '89 Accord all models '90 thru '93 Civic 1200 all models '73 thru '79 Civic 1300 & 1500 CVCC '80 thru '83 Civic 1500 CVCC all models '75 thru '79 Civic all models '84 thru '91 Prelude CVCC all models '79 thru '89

351 1221

1 1

37

'1341

771 876 •982 •981

300ZX all models including Turtx) Maxima all models '85 thru '91

247

'84 thru '89

'980

99 all models including Turtjo '69 thru '80 900 all models including Turtx} '79 thru '88

Pick-ups/Pathfinder gas models '80 thru '93 Pulsar all models '83 thru '86

Sentra Stanza

all all

models models

SUBARU

'82 thru '90 '82 thru '90

237

1 1

00,

300,

1

1600 & 1800

•681

1

400 &

1

600

2WD & 4WD

'71 thru '79 '80 thru '89

OLDSMOBILE HYUNDAI '1552

Bravada

Excel

models

all

Calais

'86 thru '93

-

SUZUKI

- see CHEVROLET S-10 (831) see GENERAL MOTORS (1420)

•1626

Custom Cruiser - see BUICK Full-size

RWD (1551) '658

ISUZU '1641

Trooper & Pick-up,

gasoline models Pick-up, '81 thru '93; Trooper, '84 thai '91 all

Cutlass Ciera - see GENERAL MOTORS (829) Cutlass Supreme - see (1671) Delta 88 - see BUICK Full-size RWD (1551) Delta 88 Brougham - see BUICK Full-size

GM

JAGUAR •242 •478

FWD (1551).

XJ6

6 cyl models '68 thru '86

all

XJ1 2 & XJS

all 1

412 *1 777

RIVD

Delta 88 Royale

(1627) -

see BUICK Full-size

RWD (1551)

2 cyl models '72 thru '85

Firenza - see GENERAL MOTORS (766) Ninety-eight Regency - see BUICK Full-size

JEEP •1553

Cutlass all standard gasoline V6 & V8 models '74 thru '88

TOYOTA 1

Ninety-eight Regency

BUICK

Full-size

Omega

023 150 935

'2038 1 1 39 361 961 '1025

RWD (1551), FWD (1627) Cherokee, Comanche & Wagoneer Limited all models '84 thru '93 CJ all models '49 thru '86 Wrangier all models '87 thru '92

636 360 532 313 200

Brougham - see

RWD (1551)

see PONTIAC Phoenix (551) Silhouette - see GENERAL MOTORS (2035) -

•1339

304

LADA •413

1

200,

1

300.

1

500 &

1

600

all

PEUGEOT

models

663

including Riva '74 thru '91

MAZDA 648

267 370

'2047

460 •1419

models

(rear '79 thru '82

wheel

drive)

(front Ufheel drive) all models '83 thru '91 B Series Pick-ups '72 thru '93

GLC Hatchback models

GLC

(rear

wheel

643

MPV all

models RX-7 all models RX-7 all models

346

90 Series

'79 thru '85 '86 thru '91

models

232 555 867

Turbo

551

111

•2022 '2097

•264

239 397 •1027

&

Brougham - see

Pick-up & Montero '83 thru '93 Eclipse, Eagle Talon A Plymouth Laser '90 thru '94

141

079 097 768

Marina 1.8 all models '71 thru '78 Minor 1000 sedan & wagon '56 thru '71

shown

Beetle

Dasher

451

Catalina - see Buick Full-size (1551) Fiero all models '84 thai '88 Firebird V8 models except Turbo '70 thru

082 226 '81

Firebird all models '82 thai '92 Full-size Rear Wheel Drive - see BUICK Oldsmobile, Pontiac Full-size (1551) Full-size Front Wheel Drive - see BUICK Oldsmobile, Pontiac Full-size FWD (1627) - see GENERAL MOTORS (1420) Grand Grand Prix - see GENERAL MOTORS (1671) Grandville - see BUICK Full-size (1551) Parisienne - see BUICK Full-size (1551) Phoenix & Oldsmobile Omega all X-car

Coupe & Targa models except Turbo & Carrera 4 '65 thru '89 914 all 4 cyl models '69 thru '76 924 all models including Turbo '76 thru 944 all models including Turtjo '83 thai 91

084 1029

all

all models models '75

'62 thai '74 '62 thai '81 thai '81

models

& Karmann Ghia

all

models

thaj '79

gasoline models '74 thru '81 Rabbit, Jetta, Scirocco, & Ptck-up gas models 74 thai '91 & Convertible 80 thru '92 Rabbit, Jetta & Pick-up all diesel all

models '77 thru '84 Transporter 1600 all models '68 thai '79 Transporter 1700, 1800 & 2000 all models '72 thai '79 Type 3 1500 & 1600 all models '63 thai '73 Vanagon all air-cooled models '80 thru '83

VOLVO 203 129 '270 •1

400 550

1479 1654 1667 1480

1 all

'82 '89

RENAULT

(Austin)

Listings

159

Buick

'83 thru '93

MORRIS 074 024

Vitesse

all

238 '884

PORSCHE

MITSUBISHI Mirage

TR7

120, 130 Series & 1800 Sports '61 thnj '73 140 Series all models '66 thru '74 240 Series all models '74 thai '90 260 Series all models '75 thai '82 740 & 760 Series all models '82 thai 88

SPECIAL MANUALS

Roadster & GT Coupe models '62 thru '80 Midget & Austin Healey Sprite Roadster '58 thru '80

MG

Cordia, Tredia, Galant, Precis

GT6 &

Spitfire

see Buick Full-size

RWD (1551)

MGB all

'1669

112

113 322

models '80 thru '84 Sunbird - see GENERAL MOTORS (766) Trans Sport - see GENERAL MOTORS (2035)

Listing

MG 265

-

Am

'76 thru '85

MERCURY See FORD

Corona all models '74 thru '82 Cressida all models '78 thru '82 Land Cruiser all models '68 thru '82 MK II all 6 cyl models '72 thm '76 MR2 all models '85 thru '87 Pick-up all models '69 thru '78 Pick-up all models '79 thru '92 Previa all models '91 thru '93

RWD

'71 thru '80

Diesel 123 Series 200D, 220O, 240D, 240TD, 300D, 300CD, 300TD. 4- & 5-cyl incl.

(1627),

Bonneville

1

Front Wheel Drive 86 thru '92 Supra all models '79 thru '92

Corolla all models '75 thru '79 Corolla all rear wtieel drive nrKxJete '80 thru '87 Corolla all front wtieel drive models '84 thru '92 Corolla Tercel all models '80 thru '82

54

Full-size (1551)

all

models '83 thru '91 Sedan all models '71 thru '74 Rear Wheel Drive '71 thru '85 all

vw

Bonneville

230, 250 & 280 Sedan, Coupe & Roadster 6 cyl sohc models '68 thru '72 280 123 Series gasoline models '77 thnj '81 350 & 450 Sedan, Coupe & Roadster all

697

Carina Celica Celica Celica

-

all

983 698

Camry

TRIUMPH

T1000 see CHEVROLET Chevette (449) J-2000 - see GENERAL MOTORS (766) 6000 - see GENERAL MOTORS (829)

four-cylinder gasoline models, '84 thru '88 1

'74 thru '83

PONTIAC

drive) '81 thru '85 '89 thru '93

wheel

MERCEDES-BENZ 1

models

drive)

'77 thru '83

(front

FWD •

diesel

Laser - see MITSUBISHI Eclipse (2097) For other PLYMOUTH titles, see DODGE listing.

626 & MX-6

all

757

all

•656 •2048

PLYMOUTH

626 Sedan & Coupe all

•1082

504

Samurai/Sidekick and Geo Tracker all models '86 thru '93

081

5 Le Car all models '76 thru '83 8 a 10 58.4 cu in engines '62 thru '72 1 2 Saloon & Estate 1 289 cc engine '70 thm '80 1 5 & 1 7 all models '73 thai '79 16 89.7 cu in & 95.5 cu in engines '65 thru '72 Alliance & Encore - see AMC (934)

1762 1 736 1763 482 2069 1666 299 393 300

Automotive Body Repair a Painting Manual Automotive Electrical Manual Automotive Emissions Control Manual Automotive Heating & Air Conditioning Manual Chevrolet Engine Overhaul Manual GM and Ford Diesel Engir>e Repair Manual Ford Engine Overhaul Manual Fuel Injection Manual Holley Carburetor Manual Small Engine Repair Manual SU Carburetors thru 88 Weber Carburetors thru 79 Zenith/Stromberg CD Cart>ur«tor«

ttvu '76

Over 100 Haynes motorcycle marxials

with an astensk C) indicate model coverage as of this printing. These titles will be periodically to include later model years - consult your Haynes dealer for more information

updated

Haynes North America,

Inc.,

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park,

CA 91320

•

(805)

498-6703

CARBON DEPOSITS

NORMAL

Symptoms: Dry

Symptoms: Brown

sooty deposits indicate a rich mixture or weak ignition. Causes misfiring, hard

starting

and

hesitation.

Recommendation: Check a clogged

for

cleaner, high float

air

choke and worn

level, sticky

ig-

nition points. Use a spark plug with a longer core nose for greater anti-fouling protection.

tan color

and

to grayishslight electrode

wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditions

Recommendation: When new spark plugs are installed, replace with plugs of the same heat range.

ASH DEPOSITS Symptoms:

OIL DEPOSITS

Symptoms: caused by poor

coating

Oily oil

control. Oil

leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings into the IS

combustion chamber. Causes hard starting, misfiring and hesition.

Recommendation:

Correct

the mechanical condition with

necessary repairs and

new

install

TOO HOT Symptoms: absence

Recommendation:

If

exces-

sive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, in-

new valve guide seals to prevent seepage of oil into the combustion chamljers. Also try changing gasoline brands. stall

plugs.

sulator.

Light brown deposits encrusted on the side or center electrodes or t)oth. Derived from oil and/or fuel addi•ves. Excessive amounts may "nask the spark, causing misfirng and hesitation dunng acceleration.

Blistered, white irv

eroded electrode and of deposits.

shortened plug

Results

in

life.

Recommendation: Check

for

the correct plug heat range,

over-advanced

ignition timing,

lean fuel mixture, intake manivacuum leaks and sticking Check the coolant level and make sure the radiator is not clogged. fold

valves.

WORN Symptoms: Rounded

elec-

trodes with a small amount of deposits on the finng end. Normal color. Causes hard startng in damp or cold weather and fxxjr fuel economy Recommendation: new plugs of

with

Replace the

same

heat range.

PREIGNITION

DETONATION

Symptoms: Melted

electrodesInsulators are white, but may be dirty due to misfiring or flying debns in the combustion

Symptoms:

chamber. Can lead damage.

lator tip. Can lead to piston damage. Recommendation: Make sure the fuel anti-knock values meet engine requirements. Use care when setting the gaps on new

to

engine

Recommendation: Check

for

the correct plug heat range,

over-advanced

ignition timing. lean fuel mixture, clogged cooling system and lack of lubhcation.

HIGH SPEED GLAZING Symptoms:

Insulator has yellowish, glazed appearance. Indicates that combustion

chamber temperatures have risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to form a conductive coating Causes misfinng at high

speeds.

Recommendation:

Install

new

plugs. Consider using a colder plug if driving habits warrant.

de-

posits lodge between the electrodes. Heavy deposits accumulate and bridge the elec-

trode gap. fire,

The plug ceases to dead cyl-

resulting in a

inder

Recommendation: Locate

also result

plugs

in

a fractured insu-

Avoid lugging the en-

gine.

SPLASHED DEPOSITS Symptoms: of

After long penods misfiring, deposits can

loosen when normal combustemperature is restored by an overdue tune-up. At high speeds, deposits flake off the piston and are thrown against the hot insulator, causing mistion

finng.

Recommendation: Replace the plugs with new ones or clean and reinstall the originals.

MECHANICAL DAMAGE

GAP BRIDGING Symptoms; Combustion

Insulators may be cracked or chipped. Improper gap setting techniques can

the faulty plug and remove the deposits from between the electrodes.

Symptoms: May be caused by a foreign object

in tfie

combus-

tion chamt>er or the piston striking an incorrect reach (too long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder and could result in piston

damage Recommendation:

Remove

the foreign object from the engine and/or install the correct

reach plug.

''!-*%'"'

.

this

manual:

Prelude models - 1979 thru 1989

(

Haynes Manuals, Explain Best: • • • • •

3\

^4...

00601

step-by-step procedures linked to hur^dreds of easy-to-follow photos using common, tdols Written from "hands-on' experience Quick and easy troubleshooting,sections Detailed wiring diagrams Color spark plug diagnosis .

.

.

^

ISBN

1

85010 629

C