Haynes Honda Jazz 2002 to 2008 Owners Workshop Manual 085733977X, 9780857339775

Citation preview

Honda Jazz

Owners Workshop Manual R M Jex (4735 - 7AR1 - 304)

Models covered Jazz Hatchback with 1.2 litre (1246 cc) & 1.4 litre (1339 cc) petrol engines, including special/limited editions Does NOT cover ‘new’ Jazz range introduced 2008

© Haynes Publishing 2013

ete KLMNO

A book in the Haynes Owners Workshop Manual Series All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in the USA

Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

ISBN 978 0 85733 977 5

Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sverige

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR

HONDA

JAZZ

Safety first!

Page

095

Introduction

Page

026

Roadside repairs lf your car won’t start

Page

007

Jump starting

Page

008

Wheel changing

Page

009

Identifying leaks

Page

0¢10

Towing

Page

0°10

Page

Oe11

Weekly checks Introduction Underbonnet check points

Page

0Oe11

Engine oil level

Page

0°12

Coolant level

Page

0¢12

Brake and clutch fluid levels

Page

0°13

Washer fluid level

Page

0e13

Page

0°14

Page

0015

Tyre condition and pressure Wiper blades

.

Battery

Page

0015

Electrical systems

Page

0°16

Lubricants and fluids

Page 0017

Tyre pressures

Page 0°17

MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Servicing specifications

Page

1¢2

Maintenance schedule

Page Page

1°3 1°6

Maintenance procedures

Illegal Copying It is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who unlawfully

copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provided expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the appropriate

statutory authorities.

Contents REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL Engine and associated systems Engine in-car repair procedures

Page

2Ae1

Engine removal and overhaul procedures

Page

2Be1

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Page

se

Fuel and exhaust systems

Page

4Ae1

Emission control systems

Page

4Be1

Starting and charging systems

Page

5Ae1

Ignition system

Page

5Be1

Transmission Clutch

Page

6¢e1

Manual transmission

Page

7Ae1

Automatic transmission

Page

7Be1

Driveshafts

Page

8e1

Braking system

Page

961

Suspension and steering

Page

10¢1

Bodywork and fittings

Page

11e1

Body electrical system

Page

12¢1

Wiring diagrams

Page 12°25

Brakes and suspension

Body equipment

Dimensions and weights

Page

REFe1

Conversion factors

Page

REFe2

Buying spare parts

Page

REFe3

Vehicle identification

Page

REFe4

General repair procedures

Page

REFe5

Jacking and vehicle support

Page

REFe6

Disconnecting the battery

Page

REFe7

Tools and working facilities

Page

REFe8

MOT test checks

Page REFe10

Fault finding

Page REFe14

Glossary of technical terms

Index

:

Page REFe23

Page REFe28

‘

o4 Advanced Driving

Advanced driving For many people, the process of ‘learning to drive’ doesn’t go much further than learning how to pass the driving test because of a common belief that good drivers are made by ‘experience’.

Learning to drive by ‘experience’ three driving skills: -

teaches

[] Quick reactions. (Whoops, that was close!) Good handling skills. (Horn, swerve, brake, horn).

Reliance on vehicle technology. Many people see the words ‘advanced driving’ and believe that it won’t interest them or that it is a style of driving beyond their own abilities. Nothing could be further from the truth. Advanced driving is straightforward safe, sensible driving - the sort of driving we

should all do every time we get behind the wheel. An average of 10 people are killed every day on UK roads and 870 more are injured, some seriously. Lives are ruined daily, usually

because somebody did something stupid. Something like 95% of all accidents are due to human error, mostly driver failure. Sometimes we make genuine mistakes everyone does. Sometimes we have lapses of concentration. Sometimes we deliberately take risks.

(Great

stuff this ABS, stop in no distance even in the wet...)

Drivers whose skills are ‘experience based’ generally have a lot of near misses and the odd accident. The results can be seen every day in our courts and our hospital casualty departments. Advanced drivers have learnt to control the risks by controlling the position and speed of their vehicle. They avoid accidents and near misses, even if the drivers around them make mistakes.

The

key skills of advanced driving are concentration, effective all-round observation, anticipation and planning. When good vehicle handling is added to

these skills, all driving situations can be approached and negotiated in a_ safe, methodical way, leaving nothing to chance. Concentration means applying your mind to safe driving, completely excluding anything that’s not relevant. Driving is usually the most dangerous activity that most of us undertake in our daily routines. It deserves our full attention. Observation means not just looking, but seeing and seeking out the information found in the driving environment. Anticipation means asking yourself what is happening, what you can reasonably expect to happen and what could happen unexpectedly. (One of the commonest words used in compiling accident reports is

‘suddenly’.)

Planning is the link between seeing something and taking the appropriate action. For many drivers, planning is the missing link. lf you want to become a safer and more skilful driver and you want to enjoy your driving more,

contact the Institute of Advanced Motorists at phone 0208 996 9600, or write to IAM House, 510 Chiswick High Road, London W4 5RG for an information pack. www.iam.org.uk,

Safety First! o-s Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards Scalding e Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. e Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning e Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing e When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on

° Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

Poisonous or irritant substances

when topping-up or carrying the battery. e The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

e Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially

Fire

Asbestos

e Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. © Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. ® Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). e Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t

e Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. e Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. © Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock e Ignition HT

voltage canbe dangerous, especially to

© Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care

Air bags e Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment e Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

protect aoe eeewi ennecessary. A° Do getsomeone to check periodically — that all is well whendace alone on the

_© Do keep loose clothing and long hairwell

*Do

out ofthe way v of moving mechanical parts. where

lags

the engine running or the ignition switched on.

The battery

vehicle.

a¢

~ ss

people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with

e This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. e When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

done with the wheels on the ground.

venture under a car which is only supported by a jack. © Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be

Hydrofluoric acid

e Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine ina confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. e Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. e Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. e Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

ramps. Never

Special hazards

/° Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before

_working on the vehicle -especially the

_ electrical system.

|¢ Do ensure that anyy liftingor jacking 5 ;

‘equipment has a safe working pad ng pomuneiaes for the Sa

:

« ee to pay in or . Don't allow ildren or near a vehicle being worked on.

og INtroduction Taking the world by surprise at its launch in November 2001, the all-new Honda Jazz has gone on to be a huge sales success in its home market, as well as here in the UK. Its ‘one-box’ design is similar to that seen in the current generation of mini-MPVs, but the Jazz excels in its clever use of interior space and flexible seating. The fuel tank is mounted under the front seats, and this, combined with compact rear suspension, allows a low floor, maximising the available space. The engine is also all-new, and designated i-DSI (intelligent Dual Sequential Ignition). The engine is ‘only’ an 8-valve design (most modern 4-cylinder engines being 16-valve), with a chain-driven single camshaft, but unusually features two spark plugs per cylinder. This configuration gives a high torque output at lower engine speeds, very clean emissions, and compact dimensions. At its launch, the only engine option was a 1.4 litre petrol, but in September 2004 a 1.2 litre petrol version was added. As expected of a modern design, the Jazz offers high levels of passenger safety, scoring four stars in the Euro NCAP safety tests. To an impact-absorbing bodyshell with side impact beams are added front airbags and seat belt tensioners, with side airbags also fitted on some later models. Many models also feature

ABS with EBD and Brake Assist. The model range is limited to just the 5-door Hatchback, but a wide variety of standard

equipment (and colours) have been available during the car’s lifespan. Even the base model is well-equipped — besides the valuable safety equipment already mentioned, all have electric power steering, rolling code engine immobiliser, central locking, electric mirrors and electric front windows. Air conditioning (or climate control), an electric sunroof, and a CD player feature higher up the range, while Sport models have their own bodykit and alloy wheels. The range received a minor facelift in October 2004, with revised light units and bumpers. All models have front-wheel-drive, with a five-speed manual transmission as standard. One of the most popular options has been the CVT-7 automatic transmission, which offers manual shifting using steering wheel-mounted buttons or paddles. The front suspension is of conventional MacPherson strut type, incorporating lower arms and an anti-roll bar; at the rear, a compact H-section axle is used.

Your Honda Jazz manual The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of

action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than

booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.

References to the ‘left’ and ‘right’ of the car are in the sense of a person in the driver’s seat, facing forwards.

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Draper tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but car manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular car of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

- Roadside repairs o-7 The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start and the starter motor doesn’t turn C) 0 al

If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector isin PorN. Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. . Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you're trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend’s car.

Check the condition and security of the battery connections.

If your car won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal Is there fuel in the tank? Has the engine immobiliser been deactivated? This should happen automatically when the key is inserted and turned to the first position. Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? With the ignition off, wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol! product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connectors. Is the engine management warning light (also known as the malfunction indicator light) on? This is an orange ‘engine’ symbol, on the left-hand side of the instrument panel. If the light stays on when trying to start the engine, it indicates a fault with the fuel or ignition systems, which will have to be diagnosed using dedicated test equipment (see Chapter 4A).

Check that the ignition coils are securely connected.

With the ignition off, check the fuses and relays in the engine compartment fusebox. Fuse No 3 in particular controls the ignition system.

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water-dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

os Roadside repairs Jump starting When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

¥Y

~’

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off

VY

Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

V_

lf the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two

i

Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

Oe VY

¥Y_ Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat

ae

h other.

See

Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

--7

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

r-

4 Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started. Make sure that the jump leads will not

come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc.

Roadside repairs o-9 Wheel changing Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

Preparation (.) When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it is safe to do so. (J Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. [] Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

[]

If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence.

L] Apply the handbrake and engage first ‘or reverse gear (or P on models with automatic transmission).

[_]

Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed — a couple of large stones will do for this. If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack.

Changing the wheel

\

Lat

eo

The spare wheel and tools are under the boot floor panel. Lift up the panel’s rear

edge, take out the tool kit, then unscrew the spare wheel retainer, and lift out the spare wheel. The jack is tucked in at the rear — unscrew (‘lower’) it slightly to remove.

Where applicable, prise off the wheel trim to access the nuts. Use the wheelbrace to loosen each wheel nut by half a turn.

point nearest the wheel to be changed. The jacking points are elongated tabs on the base of the door sills at the front and

rear — the slotted jack head should locate on the tab. Turn the jack handle clockwise until the wheel is raised clear of the ground.

Finally ... [_] Remove the wheel chocks.

Remove the nuts, and lift the punctured wheel clear. Fit the spare wheel, which is a narrow ‘space-saver’ type (the wheel

trim will not fit a space-saver wheel, so it should be stored in the boot). Refit the wheel nuts, and tighten moderately with the wheelbrace.

5 Lower the car to the ground, then finally tighten the wheel nuts in a diagonal sequence. Ideally, the wheel nuts should be slackened and retightened to the specified torque at the earliest opportunity.

Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car. On models with alloy wheels, the plastic centre cap must be pushed out before the retainer bolt can be used to hold the punctured wheel in place. [|] Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure. The space-saver spare wheel is for temporary use only. Drive with extra care, especially when cornering — limit yourself to a maximum of 50 mph, and to the shortest possible journeys, while it is fitted. [_] Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible.

o10 Roadside repairs identifying leaks Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty

PAN

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Sump oil

Oil from filter

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

...or from the base of the oil filter.

Antifreeze

Brake fluid

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the. inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Towing When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: Use a proper tow-rope — they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. Always turn the ignition key to the ‘On’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and the

direction indicator and brake lights work. _]A towing eye is provided in the car’s toolkit. To use it, unclip the access panel in the front

bumper (below the left-hand headlight), then screw the towing eye in tightly. [ ]On models with automatic transmission, the car must be towed with its front wheels

raised clear of the ground, or transmission damage may occur. Even on manual transmission models, if the front wheels cannot be suspended, the towing distance must not exceed 50 miles, at a maximum speed of 35 mph. Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. [_]Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running.

[If the ignition is not switched on, or the battery is flat, the electric power steering may not work, resulting in very heavy steering. []The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to. avoid snatching — this can be achieved by applying the brakes very gently, where this is appropriate. (_]Make sure that both drivers know the route logefore setting off. [_]Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.

Weekly checks oe11 Introduction There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense. These Weekly checks require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example:

Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life. [_]Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these.

lf your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don’t work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem. _]If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Underbonnet check points = as Bk/Rd Ye/Bk

Wh/Bk

10:

== Gn/Ye

:

cca

aaears st}

See diagrams 3,4 &5 Interior lighting feed a

lm wg

See diagram 5 Instrument cluster (rear foglight indicator)

See diagrams 5 & 8 * © Instrument cluster

& central locking

“* *

—&

O See diagram 3

7

- Bod

+

ao

+

i

fe

®

Rear foglight

+

+

az

(tail light relay)

12°28

Wiring diagrams

Diagram 4

Key to items

Wire colours

1 4 5 6

Pink Violet Orange White Red

Bk Ye Bu Bn Gn

Black Yellow Blue Brown Green

Pk Vt Og Wh Rd

Gy

Grey

LgnLt.Green

53 54 55 56 57

Battery Engine fusebox Ignition switch Passenger fusebox a = heater blower relay

50 Headlight levelling switch - 51 LH headlight levelling motor 52 RH headlight levelling motor

61 Heater panel 62 Heater blower resistors 63 Heater blower motor

Front interior light Rear interior light Tailgate light Tailgate switch Cigar lighter

58 Accessory socket 59 Heated rear window

60 Heated rear window switch H33697

Interior lighting

Headlight levelling

pn onaeeaeannananenenannennneeeannns

See diagram 5 Instrument cluster (Interior light control)

@

See diagram 5 Instrument cluster

Pu/UD

(Door lock control)

See diagram 5 Instrument cluster

(dimmer control)

Ek

a

See diagram 3 Rear foglight (tail light relay) Neevcccdewedseclsccesesecccus?

Sea eene eew sews

Air conditioning (not shown)

Electric mirrors (not shown)

Yeo/Gn secxseccmexma Ye/Gn ({fem ang

Rd/By

Sees

an Rd/Ye seem

Rd/Bu

Rd/Yo

Bea

See diagram 5 wae Rd eames

See diagram 3 Rear foglight (tail light relay)

mes BK

Instrument cluster

(dimmer control) —

See diagram 5 Instrument cluster mmmemes Rj eo (dimmer control) ga Bk ae

dpm oxi

See diagram 3 Rear foglight (tail light relay)

enet

Wiring diagrams

Wire colours Bk

Key to items —

12°29

Diagram 5

Black

Pk

Pink

1 Battery

Ye Yellow Bu Blue Bn Brown

Vt Og Wh

Violet © Orange White

4 Engine fusebox 5 Ignition switch 6 Passenger fusebox

Gn

Green

Rd

Red

65 Instrument cluster

Gy

Grey

LgnLt.Green

68 Low brake fluid switch 69 Handbrake switch

75 Ignition key switch 76 Driver’s seat belt switch 77 Tachometer test connector

70 Oil pressure switch 71 Driver's door switch 72 Passenger’s door switch

66 Vehicle speed sensor 67 Fuel gauge sender unit

78 LH rear door switch 74 RH rear door switch

H33698

Instrument cluster (warning indicators & gauges) Engine management (not shown)

See diagram 2 EPS Engine management (not shown) Front foglight (not shown) See diagram 3 Rear foglight

(ffm aria

@? Om Bu

See diagram 3 Hazard warning switch

I, ESL

2 9

9 8

& Z

2 |

|3

AB AS

cl4

o

|

s

o

C

2

PY

2D

t NEE: A,

C15

C31

A12

Alt

C34

Serer @ Pee

ee

@

o

2 2

C35

errs

| or

C30

ro)

(ef

C1

C26

Vice

wees

C23

weeee

dimmer

Pe EA

A3 AIS

Oe

Ou

Sues

ne A

OT C22

A16

eeeeee

See diagram 3 High beam

See diagrams 4 &6 Interior lighting

woe teS aoe Re

a

LagRepeee oa EE er Bate

AQ

_ Climate control (not shown)

See diagram 3 Rear foglight (tail light relay)

:

Cy!

See diagram 4 Interior lighting (front/rear interior light)

See diagram 3 Direction indicators & hazard warning lights

20 A1O

Outside air temp. sensor (not shown)

(not shown)

See diagram 2 === Bu/Ye EPS eet By

C24

AY Rea 027

ee.

C18

é

: Botke

nee)

ee

PY

i

Aa}

Ai3

| 3

85

ci

C4

a

Qa

oe D

DQ

wo

wo

a

Qa

} i i

i i

ESP (NOt SHOWN)

) ae

At4

1

' i

3

==

|

Immobilizer control unit (not shown)

D

ie

(4

|

i

if

|

@

2) 2 en's

~