Haynes Ford 1.6 & 1.8 Diesel Engine Service and Repair Manual [1172] 185960224X, 9781859602249

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Haynes Publishing, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ) England Telephone (01963) 442030 « E-mail [email protected] e 01-47-17-66-29 * Sweden

018 124016 * USA

805 498-6703 ¢ Australia

* Website

613 9763-8100

www.haynes.co.uk

RACING

ENGUNES

Diesel Engine service and Repair Manual by Matthew Minter and Christopher Rogers (1172 - 208 - ZAB9)

Models covered

Ford 1608 cc (1.6 litre) and 1753 cc (1.8 litre) Diesel engine used in the Ford Fiesta, Ford Escort, Ford Orion and Ford Mondeo Does not cover Sierra/P100 applications

© Haynes Publishing 1998

ABCDE K

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

3

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 224 X

Printed in the USA

Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA Editions Haynes 4, Rue de |'Abreuvoir

92415 COURBEVOIE

CEDEX, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sweden

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR

FORD

DIESEL

Introduction Introduction to the Ford diesel engines

Page

004

Acknowledgements

Page

004

Safety First!

Page

0*5

Lubricants, fluids and capacities

Page

0°6

The Diesel engine History

Page

Principles of operation

Page

Fuel supply and injection systems

Page

Future developments

Page

104 102 194 196

Servicing Specifications

Page

291

Maintenance schedule

Page

293

Maintenance procedures

Page

2°12

MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing

Contents REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL Engine overhaul - 1.6 litre engine

Page

3Ae1

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

Page

3Be1

Fuel and exhaust systems - 1.6 litre engine

Page

4Ae1

Fuel and exhaust systems - 1.8 litre engine

Page

4Be1

Engine electrical systems

Page

5e1

Ancillary components

Page

6e1

Introduction

Page

7e1

Fault symptoms and reasons

Page

7e2

Diagnosis

Page

794

Normal workshop tools

Page

Diesel-specific tools

Page

Injection pump timing tools

Page

Injector testing equipment

Page

Injection pump-testing and calibration equipment

Page

Smoke testing equipment

Page

8e1 8e2 804 8°6 8°6 8°7

FAULT DIAGNOSIS

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

REFERENCE SECTION REFe1 REFe2 REFe3 REFe3 REFe4 REFe5 REFe6

Dimension and weights

Page

Conversion factors

Page

Buying spare parts

Page

Vehicle identification

Page

General Repair Procedures

Page

Jacking and vehicle support

Page

MOT test checks

Page

Glossary of technical terms

Page REFe10

Index

Page REFe14

oa

Introduction

The Ford Diesel engines These engines have been available since 1984. They are fitted to the front wheel drive passenger vehicles and light vans - Fiesta, Escort, Orion and Mondeo. Like the equivalent petrol engines they are mounted transversely. The engine is a completely new design, unlike those offered by some other manufacturers which are simply conversions of existing petrol engines.

On paper the outputs of the 1.6 and 1.8 diesel engines fall between those of Ford’s 1.1 and 1.3 petrol engines. On the road it is no slouch, especially the turbocharged version, only a certain amount of clatter at idle betraying its presence to the driver. It is almost impossible to stall and satisfactory progress can be made in heavy traffic using the first two gears without touching the throttle. The diesel’s fuel economy benefits are well known; to these can be added longer_engine life, and (at present) a higher resale value, than petrol-engined equivalents.

Routine maintenance tasks are few and easily carried out. Access is limited for some repair operations. Certain jobs will require the purchase or construction of special tools; this apart, the engine is easy to work on and displays many thoughtful design features. The fuel injection equipment is made by

Bosch on early 1.6 engines, with a CAV RotoDiesel system being fitted from July 1986. 1.8 engines are fitted with either Bosch or CAV RotoDiesel systems. While the major components may not be user-serviceable (whichever system is fitted to a particular vehicle), provided that all fuel system

1990 Escort Estate

maintenance procedures are carried out correctly and at the specified intervals, no problems should be encountered during normal use. Outside the engine bay, the vehicles to which this engine is fitted are much the same in diesel and petrol versions. For complete coverage of a particular vehicle, the appropriate Manual for petrol-engined vehicles will be needed.

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Douglas Seaton Ltd, of Yeovil, for the loan of the vehicles used in the preparation of this Manual. Certain illustrations are the copyright of the Ford Motor Company, and are used with their permission. Illustrations denoted by the line ‘©Robert Bosch Limited’ are used by kind permission of that company. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant, who supplied some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the

production of this Manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. 1993 Mondeo 1.8TD

Safety first! o-s Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a

safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards Scalding e Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. e Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning ¢ Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot

immediately after use.

e Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should

be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication e Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run. the

engine ina confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. e Fuel vapour is also

poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Crushing

—S

e When working under or near a raised vehicle, ra] always es supplement the jack with axle

Poisonous or irritant substances

under a car which is only supported bya jack. e Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

e Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. e Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. e Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Fire

Asbestos

e Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. © Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. e Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of

e Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

stands, or use

i.

ly

drive-on ramps.

iG

a)

Never

Gi

venture

_

Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid e This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. e When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery ¢ Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. e The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags e Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special pos instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment e Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very

high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). e Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t

work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. e Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. © Keep afire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock ¢ Ignition HT voltage canbe

dangerous,

+ ee

especially to t people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with

the engine running or the ignition switched on.

Remember... DO

DON’T

e Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

© Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get assistance.

¢ Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

e Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

e Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

e Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

e Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system.

e Do ensure that any lifting or jacking

5 |

© Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

e Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

equipment has a safe working load rating

adequate for the job.

e Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

oe Lubricants, fluids and capacities Component or system 1.6 litre engine

Lubricant or fluid

Capacity

Multigrade engine oil, viscosity

5.0 litres with filter 4.5 litres without filter

range SAE 10W/30 to 20W/50, to specification API SG/CD or better

1.8 litre engine: non-turbocharged

turbocharged

Multigrade engine oil, viscosity 10W/30* to 20W/50, to spec API SG/CD or better

Multigrade engine oil, to spec API SG/CD and CCMC PD2 Ford Super Motor oil 15W/40

4.5 litres with filter 4.1 litres without filter

.5 litres with filter (Escort) .1 litres without filter

.0 litres with filter (Mondeo) hoORL .5 litres

without filter

* Note: SAE 10W/30 oil must not be used in the 1.8 TCI engine

Manual gearbox: non-turbocharged engine

Hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE

3.1 litres

80EP, to Ford spec SQM 2C 9008A Hypoid gear oil to Ford Spec ESD-M2C 186A

NP .6

non turbocharged engine

Transmission fluid to Ford spec ESP-M2C 166-H

7.2 litres inc fluid cooler 3.6 drain and refill

turbocharged engine

Not an option at the time of writing

Power steering system

Fluid to Ford spec ESP-M2C 166-H

To reservoir MAX mark

Fuel system

Commercial diesel fuel for

Dependent to model type

turbocharged engine

.4 litres (Escort) litres (Mondeo)

Automatic transmission:

road vehicles (DERV) Cooling system

Antifreeze to Ford spec ESD-M97B-49A _

8.5 litres (Fiesta 1.6) _ 9.3 litres (Fiesta 1.8, Escort Orion and Mondeo)

Note: The recommended concentration of antifreeze to soft water for normal topping up is 50% and at coolant level is 40%

Chapter 1 The Diesel engine Contents Fuel supply and injection systems Future developments

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1. History

Rudolf Diesel invented the _ first commercially successful compression ignition engine at the end of the 19th century. Compared with the spark ignition engine, the diesel had the advantages of lower fuel consumption, the ability to use cheaper fuel, and the potential for much higher power outputs. Over the following two or three decades such engines were widely adopted for stationary and marine applications, but the fuel injection systems used were not capable of high-speed operation. This speed limitation, and the considerable weight of the

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Fist

7

AM

OL

h Wee ere

af

air compressor needed to operate the injection equipment, made the first diesel engines unsuitable for use in road-going vehicles. In the 1920s the German engineer Robert Bosch developed the in-line injection pump, a device which is still in extensive use today. The use of hydraulic systems to pressurise and inject the fuel did away with the need for a separate air compressor and made possible much higher operating speeds. The so-called high-speed diesel engine became increasingly popular as a power source for goods and public transport vehicles, but for a number of

reasons (including specific power output, flexibility.and cheapness of manufacture) the spark ignition engine continued to dominate the passenger car and light commercial market.

4

:

Sr

PEPPER EOSUREE

Li

iu!

In the 1950s and 60s, diesel engines became increasingly popular for use in taxis and vans, but it was not until the sharp rises in oil prices in the 1970s that serious attention - was paid to the small passenger car market. Subsequent years have seen the growing popularity of the small diesel engine in cars and light commercial

vehicles,

not only for

reasons of fuel economy and longevity but also for environmental reasons. Every major European car manufacturer now offers at least one diesel-engined model. The diesel’s penetration of the UK market has been relatively slow, due in part to the lack of the considerable fuel price differential in favour of diesel which exists in other parts of Europe, but it has now gained widespread acceptance and this trend looks set to continue.

12

The Diesel engine

1. Induction

2. Compression

3. Combustion

4. Exhaust

2.1 Four-stroke diesel cycle ©Robert Bosch Limited

2

Principles of operation

1 All the diesel engines covered in this book operate on the familiar four-stroke cycle of induction, compression, combustion (power) and exhaust (see illustration). Two-stroke diesels do exist, and may in future become important, but they are not used in light vehicles at present. Most have four cylinders, some larger engines have six, and five and three-cylinder engines also exist.

Induction and ignition 2 The main difference between diesel and petrol engines is in the means by which the fuel/air mixture is introduced into the cylinder and then ignited. In the petrol engine the fuel is mixed with the incoming air before it enters the cylinder, and the mixture is then ignited at the appropriate moment by a spark plug. At all conditions except full throttle, the throttle butterfly restricts the airflow and cylinder filling is incomplete. 3 In the diesel engine, air alone is drawn into the cylinder and then compressed. Because of the diesel’s high compression ratio (typically 20:1) the air gets very hot when compressed - up to 750°C (1382°F). As the piston approaches the end of the compression stroke, fuel is injected into the

combustion chamber under very high pressure in the form of a finely atomised spray. The temperature of the air is high enough to ignite the injected fuel as it mixes with the air. The mixture then burns and provides the energy which drives the piston downwards on the power stroke. 4 When starting the engine from cold, the temperature of the compressed air in the cylinders may not be high enough to ignite the fuel. The preheating system overcomes this

problem. The engines in this book have automatically-controlled preheating systems, using electric heater plugs (glow plugs) which heat the air in the combustion chamber just before and during start-up. 5 On most diesel engines there is no throttle valve in the inlet tract. Exceptions to this are those few engines which use a pneumatic governor, which depends on a manifold

Injection into turbulence chamber.

depression being created. Even more rarely a throttle valve may be used to create manifold depression for the operation of a brake servo, though it is more usual for a separate vacuum pump to be fitted for this purpose.

Direct and indirect injection 6 In practice, it is difficult to achieve smooth combustion in a small-displacement engine by injecting the fuel directly into the combustion chamber. To get around this problem the technique of indirect injection is widely used. With indirect injection, the fuel is

injected into a pre-combustion or swirl chamber in the cylinder head, alongside the main combustion chamber (see illustration). 7 Indirect injection engines are less efficient than direct injection ones and also require more preheating when starting from cold, but these disadvantages are offset by smoother and quieter operation.

Mechanical construction 8 The pistons, crankshaft and bearings of a diesel engine are generally of more robust construction than in a petrol engine of comparable size, because of the greater loads imposed by the higher compression ratio and the nature of the combustion process. This is one reason for the diesel engine’s longer life. Other reasons include the lubricating qualities of diesel fuel on the cylinder bores, and the fact that the diesel engine is generally lowerrevving than its petrol counterpart, having much better low-speed torque characteristics and a lower maximum speed.

Direct injection.

2.6 Direct and indirect injection ©Robert Bosch Limited

Turbocharging 9 Turbochargers have long been used on large diesel engines and are becoming common on small ones. The turbocharger uses the energy of the escaping exhaust gas to drive a turbine which pressurises the air in the inlet manifold. The air is forced into the cylinders instead of being simply sucked in. If more air is present, more fuel can be burnt and more power developed from the same size engine (see illustration). 10 Greater benefit can be gained from turbocharging if the pressurised air is cooled before it enters the engine. This is done using an air-to-air heat exchanger called an

The Diesel engine kW

t Ambient air

t Supercharged air

1¢3

Torque

Output

Afevesuat gases

2.9 Principle of turbocharging

1 Turbocharger 2 Exhaust manifold 3 Inlet manifold

intercooler. The cooled air is denser and contains more oxygen in a given volume than ‘warm air straight from the turbocharger (see

illustrations).

:

Exhaust emissions 11 Because combustion in the correctly functioning diesel engine nearly always ‘occurs in conditions of excess oxygen, there is little or no carbon monoxide (CO) in the exhaust gas. A further environmental benefit is that there is no added lead in diesel fuel. 12 At the time of writing there is no need for

complicated emission control systems on the

1000

= —

— —

2000

3000

4000

5000

Speed (rpm) 1/min Turbocharged Diesel with charge air cooling Turbocharged Diesel without charge air cooling

2.10a Power and torque outputs from a turbocharged engine with and without charge air cooling

diesel engine, though simple catalytic converters are beginning to appear on production vehicles. Increasingly stringent emission regulations may result in the adoption of exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) systems and carbon particle traps (see illustration).

Knock and smoke 13 The image of the diesel engine for many years was of a noisy, smoky machine, and to some extent this was justified. It is worth examining the causes of knock and smoke, both to see how they have been reduced in modern engines and to understand what causes them to get worse. 14 There is inevitably a small delay (typically 0.001 to 0.002 sec) between the start of fuel injection and- the beginning of proper combustion. This delay, known as ignition lag, is greatest when the engine is cold and idling. The characteristic diesel knock is caused by the sudden increase in cylinder pressure which occurs when the injected fuel has mixed with the hot air and starts burning. It is therefore an unavoidable part of the combustion process, though it has been greatly reduced by improvements in

2.10b Induction airflow in a turbocharged engine with charge air cooling 1 Air cleaner 2 Turbocharger 3 Intercooler 4 Inlet manifold

A Inducted air B Compressed air before cooling C Compressed air after cooling

1e¢4

The Diesel engine FROM

ATMOSPHERE

CATALYST

ENGINE

H.20948

CERAMIC

MONOLITH

ALUMINIUM

OXIDE

PLATINUM

2.12 Chemical reactions in an oxidation catalytic converter combustion chamber and injection system design. A defective injector (which is not atomising the fuel as it should for optimum combustion) will also cause the engine to knock. 15 Smoke is caused by_ incorrect combustion, but unlike knock it is more or less preventable. During start-up and warm-

arrangement must also be made for returning fuel leaked from the injection pump and injectors to the tank (see illustration). 2 A fuel lift pump is fitted between the tank and the filter on vehicles which use an in-line injection pump, or where the fuel tank outlet is significantly lower than the injection pump.

When a distributor injection pump is fitted and the tank outlet is at about the same level as the injection pump (as is the case with many passenger cars), a separate fuel lift pump is not fitted. In this case a hand priming pump is often provided for use when bleeding the fuel system.

up a certain amount of white or blue smoke

may be seen, but under normal running conditions the exhaust should be clean. The thick black smoke which is all too familiar from old or badly-maintained vehicles is caused byalack of air for combustion, either because the air inlet is restricted (clogged air cleaner) or because too much fuel is being injected (defective injectors or pump). Causes of smoke are examined in more detail in Chapter 7.

3

Fuel supply and injection systems

Fuel supply 1 The fuel supply system is concerned with delivering clean fuel, free of air, water or other contaminants, to the injection pump. It always includes a fuel tank, a water trap and a fuel filter (which may be combined in one unit), and the associated pipework. Some

3.1 Fuel circulation - typical passenger car system ©Robert Bosch Limited 1 2 3 4

Fuel tank Fuel feed line Fuel filter/ water trap Injection pump with integral supply pump

5 Injector pipe 6 Injector 7 Fuel return (leak-off) line

The Diesel engine

1¢5

it must be renewed at the specified intervals. Considering the damage which can be caused to the injection equipment by the entry of even small particles of dirt, it is not worth using cheap replacement filters, which may -not be of the same quality as those of reputable manufacture (see illustration).

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X

}

Fuel injection pump

\

1 ys

VR ESSISS

3.5 Sectional view of a typical fuel filter

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

3 Additional refinements may be encountered. These include a fuel heater, which may be integral with the filter or on the tank side of it, to prevent the formation of wax crystals in the fuel in cold weather. A “water in fuel” warning light on the instrument panel may be illuminated by a device in the water trap when the water reaches a certain level. 4 The water trap and fuel filter are vital for satisfactory operation of the fuel injection system. The water trap may have a glass bowl, in which case water build-up can be seen, or it may as already mentioned have

Hand priming plunger Fuel bleed screw (on outlet union) Seals Water drain tap Through-bolt Through-bolt seal Filter element Air bleed screw (on inlet union)

some electrical device for alerting the driver to the presence of water. Whether or not these features are present, the trap must be drained at the specified intervals, or more frequently if

experience shows this to be necessary. If water enters the injection pump it can cause rapid corrosion, especially if the vehicle is left standing for any length of time. 5 The fuel filter may be of the disposable cartridge type, or it may consist of a renewable element inside a metal bowl. Sometimes a coarser pre-filter is fitted upstream of the main filter. Whatever the type,

6 The pump is a mechanical device attached to the engine (see illustrations). Its function is to supply fuel to the injectors at the correct pressure, at the correct moment in the

combustion cycle and for the length of time necessary to ensure efficient combustion. The pump responds to depression of the accelerator pedal by increasing fuel delivery, within the limits allowed by the governor. It is also provided with some means of cutting off fuel delivery when it is wished to stop the engine. 7 Some kind of governor is associated with the injection pump, either integral with it or attached to it. All vehicle engine governors regulate fuel delivery to control idle speed and maximum speed; the variable-speed governor also regulates intermediate speeds. Operation of the governor may be mechanical or hydraulic, or it may be controlled by manifold depression. 8 Other devices in or attached to the pump include cold start injection advance or fast idle units, turbo boost pressure sensors and anti-stall mechanisms. 9 Fuel injection pumps are normally very reliable. If they are not damaged by dirt, water or unskilled adjustment they may well outlast the engine to which they are fitted.

Fuel injectors 10 One fuel injector is fitted to each cylinder. The function of the injector is to spray an evenly atomised quantity of fuel into the

H23474

3.6a Bosch PE in-line injection pump and associated components ©Robert Bosch Limited

7 Pump

2 Governor housing 3 Lift pump

4 Drivegear and advance mechanism

3.6b Lucas / CAV distributor injection pump type DPC

1°6

The Diesel engine combustion or pre-combustion chamber when the fuel pressure exceeds a certain value, and to stop the flow of fuel cleanly when the pressure drops. Atomisation is achieved by a spring-loaded needle which vibrates rapidly against its seat when fuel under pressure passes it. The needle and seat assembly together are known as the injector nozzle. 11 Injectors in direct injection engines are usually of the multi-hole type (see illustration), while those in indirect engines are of the pintle type (see illustration). The “throttled pintle” injector gives a progressive build-up of injection, which is valuable in achieving smooth combustion. 12 The injector tips are exposed to the temperatures and pressures of combustion, so not surprisingly they will in time suffer from carbon deposits and ultimately from erosion and burning. Service life will vary according to factors such as fuel quality and operating conditions, but typically one could expect to clean and recalibrate a set of injectors after about 50 000 miles, and perhaps to renew them or have them reconditioned after 100 000 miles.

i a a Q

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Injector pipes 13 The injector pipes are an important part of the system and must not be overlooked. The dimensions of the pipes are important and it should not be assumed that just because the end fittings are the same, a pipe from a different engine can be used as a replacement. Securing clips must be kept tight and the engine should not be run without them, as damage from vibration or fuel cavitation may result. 3.11a Sectional view of a multi-hole

injector ©Robert Bosch Limited 1 Fuel inlet 5 Spring 2 Integral filter 6 Body 3 Fuel return 7 Spindle 4 Pressure 8 Nozzle body adjusting shim 9 Nozzle needle

4

3.11b Cutaway view of a pintle injector ©Robert Bosch Limited 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Fuel inlet Integral filter Body Pressure passage Sleeve Nozzle retainer Union nut

8 Fuel return 9 Pressure adjusting shim 10 Spring 11 Spindle 12 Nozzle

Future developments

Development of the diesel engine, and particularly the fuel injection system, has been relatively slow compared with the advances which have been made in petrol engine fuel injection and management systems. However, new systems such as ‘EPIC’ (Electronically Programmed Injection Control) by Lucas and

EDC (Electronic Diesel Control) by Bosch are already in production or in an advanced stage of development. These systems will provide further improvements in smoothness, economy and reduced exhaust emissions. There can be no doubt that the current combination of high fuel prices and increased environmental awareness will provide the necessary stimuli for further improvements in the near future. :

204

Chapter 2

Routine maintenance and servicing Contents Sreeewner clamont ronewal ..........0-...0.ccc lace ceeseece 17 ‘Auxiliary drivebelt check - 1.6 litte engine .................0006 9 Auxiliary drivebelt check - 1.8 litre engine .............2...0006. 14 ER TNS cet ita eA toll sha,aietd ies ys» a aS yalpapande inte aha pedis 6 5 Camshaft and injection pump drivebelt renewal - 1.8 litre engine . . .20 Camshaft drivebelt renewal - 1.6 litre engine ................... 21

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1 This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain their engine for economy, long life and peak performance.

2 The Chapter contains a _ master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components. 3 Servicing your engine in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results. 4 As you service your engine, you will discover that many of the procedures can and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated another.

components

to

one

out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or dealer service department.

2

Intensive maintenance

1 If from the time the engine is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, then the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack ofregular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used

as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations a) Clean, inspect and test the battery b) Check all the engine-related fluids c) Check the condition and tension of the auxiliary drivebelt

d) Check the condition of the air cleaner filter element, and renew if necessary e) Check the fuel filter f) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks g) Check the idle speed settings 5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations: '

Secondary operations a) Check the charging system b) Check the preheating system c) Check the fuel system

Every 250 miles / 400 km 3

Engine oil level check

SS

S®R

1 Make sure that the vehicle is on level ground. Check the oil level before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

Caution: If the oil is checked immediately

after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick! 2 The dipstick is located at the front of the engine. Withdraw the dipstick and using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe all the oil from its end. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube

3.3 Engine oil dipstick MAX and MIN lines

as far as it will go, then withdraw it again. 3 Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the upper MAX mark and the lower MIN mark (see illustration). 4 Oil is added through the filler cap. A funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick

often. Do not overfill (see illustration).

Every 250 miles 2-13

4.1 The coolant level should be between the MAX and MIN marks on the reservoir

4

Coolant level check

4.2 Place a thick cloth over the expansion tank cap to avoid scalding

3 Top up to the MAX mark using antifreeze mixture of the correct type and concentration (see illustration). In an emergency plain water may be used, but this will dilute the antifreeze remaining in the system. Do not add cold water to an overheated engine, or damage may result. 4 Refit the expansion tank cap when the level is correct. Check for leaks if frequent topping-up is required. Normally loss from this type of system is minimal.

HUW Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

1 Check the coolant level by inspecting the expansion tank. The tank is translucent, so the level can be verified without removing the cap. The level should be between the MAX and MIN marks (see illustration). If it is below

expansion

tank

cap

and

turn

the

cap

anti-clockwise as far as the first stop. Wait for any steam to be released, then depress the cap, turn it further anti-clockwise and remove it completely (see illustration).

3 If corrosion (white fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Automotive stores sell a useful tool for

cleaning

the battery

post as well as the

terminals.

Corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the cable clamps and battery terminals after they are reconnected.

5 Battery check

HU 4

the MIN mark, proceed as follows.

2 Take great care to avoid scalding if the system is hot. Place a thick cloth over the

You should not be able to move them. Also check each cable for cracks and frayed conductors (see illustration).

1 The battery is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. Inspect the exterior of the battery for damage such as a cracked case or cover. 2 Check the tightness of the battery cable clamps to ensure good electrical connections.

4.3 T9P up coolant to the MAX mark using ariitieaee mixture a the correct type and concentration

Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted.

5.2 Check the battery cable connections

214 Every 250 miles 6

Exhaust check

SS Ss

x

1 Start the engine and visually check the exhaust emissions. Any smoke in the emissions will indicate one of the following faults:

White smoke in exhaust a) Injection timing incorrect

b) Low compression c) Water entering cylinders

7 Warninglight check =

Black smoke in exhaust

KIO

a) Air cleaner blocked b) Injector(s) defective

Blue smoke in exhaust a) Engine oil b) Injector(s) 2 If any fault immediately, Chapter.

entering cylinders defective is indicated then take action referring to the appropriate

The glow plug warning light in the instrument console should extinguish approximately 7 seconds after the ignition is switched on. If it does not do so, then suspect a fault in the circuit or one of the plugs and take the appropriate action.

Every 6000 miles / 10 000 km 8

Engine oil and filter renewal

BR

Wii Oil draining 1 The engine oil should be drained just after a run, when the contaminants which it carries are still in suspension. 2 Park the vehicle on level ground. Position a drain pan of adequate capacity beneath the sump. Wipe clean around the sump drain plug, then unscrew and remove it (see illustration). Be careful to avoid scalding if the oil is very hot. Do not lose the drain plug washer. 3 Remove the oil filler cap to speed up the draining process. Allow the oil to drain for at least 15 minutes. Inspect the drain plug washer and renew it if necessary. 4 When draining is complete, refit the drain plug with washer and tighten it to the specified torque. Before refilling the engine with oil, renew the oil filter as follows.

Filter renewal 5 Position the drain pan underneath the oil filter. Unscrew the filter and remove it. A chain

or strap wrench will probably be needed to undo the filter. Failing this, a screwdriver can be driven through the filter and used as a lever to unscrew it. Be prepared for considerable oil spillage in this case. Some spillage is inevitable as the filter is withdrawn (see illustration). 6 Wipe clean around the filter seat on.the engine and check that no sealing rings have been left behind. Smear the sealing ring on the new filter with engine oil or grease, then screw the filter into position. Unless instructed otherwise by the filter maker, tighten the filter by hand only. Usually, tightening by two-thirds of a turn beyond the point where the sealing ring contacts the seat is sufficient.

around the filter base and the drain plug. Tighten further if necessary. Stop the engine and check again for leaks. 10 Allow a couple of minutes for the oil to return to the sump, then recheck the level on the dipstick and top-up if necessary to the MAX mark. The new filter will absorb approximately 0.5 litre (nearly a pint) of oil. 11 Put the old oil into a sealed container and dispose of it safely.

9 Auxiliary drivebelt check1.6 litre engine

:

#

Oil refilling and engine checks 7 Refill the engine with new oil of the specified type through the filler cap. A funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Do not overfill. Ensure that the oil level is at least up to the MIN mark on the dipstick. 8 Refit the filler cap, then start the engine. The oil pressure warning light will take a few seconds to go out as the filter fills with oil. Do not rev the engine until the light has gone out. 9 With the engine running, check for leaks

1 Disconnect the battery earth (negative) lead. 2 Inspect each drivebélt for cracks, fraying or other damage. Ideally the engine should be turned by hand so that the whole length of each belt can be inspected.

3 If the belt is in good condition, check the tension and adjust as necessary. 4 For

information

on

belt

renewal

adjustment, refer to Chapter 6.

oe PS

8.2 Clean around the sump drain plug, then remove it to drain the engine oil

= & x

Sal

8.5 Using a chain wrench to unscrew the oil filter

and

Every 6000 miles -§ 10Fuel filter water drainage Fess

siz

16 Allow the filter to drain until clean fuel, free

Mi

Note: Before carrying out the following procedure, read carefully the precautions listed in Chapter 4, Part A, Section 3.

1.6 litre engine Early type Bosch filter (separate element) 1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Attach a tube to the drain spigot on the base of the fuel filter. Place the other end of the tube in a clean jar or can. 3 Open the drain cock by unscrewing the

knurled wheel. 4 Allow the filter to drain until clean fuel, free of dirt or water, emerges from the tube. If no fuel emerges, use the procedure given below for the later type of filter. Close the drain cock and remove the tube. 5 Dispose of the contaminated fuel safely. 6 Reconnect the battery earth lead.

Later type Bosch filter (spin-on cartridge) 7 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 8 In addition to taking the precautions noted above to catch any fuel spillages, connect a tube to the drain spigot on the:base of the fuel filter. Place the other end of the tube in a clean jar or can. 9 Open the drain cock by unscrewing the knurled wheel. 10 Allow the filter to drain until clean fuel, free of dirt or water, emerges from the tube . (approximately 100 cc is usually sufficient). Close the drain cock and remove the tube, containers and rag, mopping up any spilt fuel. 11 If, as often happens, no fuel emerges on opening the drain cock, slacken the vent screw on the filter head to allow sufficient air into the filter for fuel to flow. If this does not work, remove the filter cartridge and check it

carefully until the reason for the lack of flow can be identified and is cured. It is unwise simply to probe the drain cock with a piece of wire in an attempt to clear the obstruction; the small seals in the drain cock may be damaged or dislodged. Note that the system may require bleeding if the vent screw is disturbed or the filter unscrewed. ; -12 On completion, dispose safely of the drained fuel and reconnect the battery earth lead. Check carefully all disturbed components to ensure that there are no leaks (of air or fuel) when the engine is restarted.

of dirt or water, emerges from the tube (approximately 100 cc is usually sufficient). Close the drain cock and remove the tube, containers and rag, mopping up any split fuel. 17 lf, as often happens, no fuel emerges on opening the drain cock, either operate the hand-priming pump to get fuel flowing or slacken the bleed nipple on the filter outlet union to allow sufficient air into the filter for fuel to flow. If this does not work, remove the filter element and check the element and bowl carefully until the reason for the lack of flow can be identified and is cured. In some cases, it would appear that the drain cock passage in the bowl was never made on manufacture. In such cases, either the filter element must be removed at each draining interval so that any water or foreign matter can be tipped out of the filter bowl, or the necessary replacement parts must be obtained so that the drain cock can be used as described above. It is unwise simply to probe the drain cock with a piece of wire in an attempt to clear the obstruction as the small seals in the drain cock may be damaged or dislodged. Note that the system may require bleeding if the bleed nipple is disturbed or the filter dismantled. 18 Oncompletion, refit the air cleaner duct (if removed), dispose safely of the drained fuel and reconnect the battery earth lead. Check carefully all disturbed components to ensure that there are no leaks (of air or fuel) when the engine is restarted.

engines, access to the fuel filter assembly may be much improved if the duct from the air cleaner to the inlet manifold is first removed.

11 Idle speed check and adjustment

VY

All engines

1.8 litre engine

1 The usual type of tachometer (rev counter), which works from ignition system pulses, cannot be used on diesel engines. If it is not felt that adjusting the idle speed “by ear” is satisfactory, one of the following alternatives must be used: a) Purchase or hire of an appropriate tachometer b) Delegation of the job to a Ford dealer or other specialist c) Timing light (strobe) operated by a petrol engine running at the desired speed. If the timing light is pointed at a chalk mark on the diesel engine crankshaft pulley, the mark will appear stationary when the two engines are running at the same speed (or multiples of that speed) d) Calculating the mph/rpm relationship for a particular gear and running the engine, in that gear, with the front wheels free. The speedometer accuracy may not be adequate, especially at low speeds. Stringent safety precautions must be observed

Bosch clamp-fixing cartridge filter

1.6 litre engine

19 Proceed as described for the later type Bosch spin-on cartridge filter fitted to the 1.6 litre engine, noting that on this filter the vent screw is the single (slotted, hexagon-headed) screw on the top of the filter itself. Access to the fuel filter assembly may be much improved on Escort/Orion models if the duct from the air cleaner to the inlet manifold is first

removed. ; CAV RotoDiesel filter 20 This process is as described for the same filter type fitted to the 1.6 litre engine but note that on Escort/Orion models with 1.8 litre

Bosch injection pump 2 Warm up the engine until it is at normal operating temperature. 3 Connect the tachometer, if used, or make the necessary alternative arrangements. Start the engine and allow it to idle. Compare the idle speed with that specified. 4 lf adjustment is necessary, slacken the idle speed screw locknut on the fuel injection pump (see illustration). Turn the idle speed screw clockwise to increase the speed, anti-clockwise to decrease it. When the speed is

correct,

tighten

the

locknut

without

disturbing the position or the screw (see illustration). 5 Disconnect the tachometer or other instruments, as appropriate.

CAV RotoDiesel injection pump

CAV RotoDiesel filter 13 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 14 Connect a tube to the drain spigot (where fitted) on the base of the fuel filter. Place the other end of the tube in a clean jar or can. 15 Open the drain cock either by unscrewing the knurled wheel/thumbscrew or by using a spanner, as appropriate (see illustration).

2-15

ay

10.15 Draining water from CAV fuel filter using a container (arrowed) to prevent spillage

Note: A special (spacer) service tool (23-016) will be required for this operation. If not available, this can be replaced by the (careful) use of spacers. 6 Run the engine to normal operating temperature and check the idle speed. 7 If the idle speed exceeds 910 rpm, slacken the idle speed screw locknut (C) (see illustration) and adjust the idle speed screw until the engine idles at 880 + 30 rpm. Tighten the locknut.

216 Every 6000 miles

11.4a Speed adjusting screws - Bosch fuel injection pump A Idlespeed B Maximum speed - do not alter 8 Insert a 2.0 mm thick spacer between the adjusting screw and the idle stop lever as shown (see illustration). The idle speed should fall by approximately 100 rpm. No change in speed indicates the need for antistall adjustment.

9 If the engine idle speed when originally checked was less than 850 rpm, insert a 2.0 mm thick spacer between the adjusting screw and the idle stop lever. If the engine speed does not alter, carry out the anti-stall adjustment. If the speed alters when the spacer is inserted, then the idle speed should

be set to specification.

1.8 litre engine - non turbocharged Bosch injection pump

range 11 If the idle speed recorded was incorrect, reset to 850 rpm using the idle speed adjusting screw (B) (see illustration). Once the idle speed is correct, insert a spacer 0.5 mm thick between the throttle lever and the residual capacity adjusting screw (A). The idle speed should not alter. If the spéed does

alter, carry out the basic idle setting procedure described below. If the speed does not alter remove the spacer and replace it with one 1.0 mm thick, whereupon the speed should increase very slightly, by about 10 or 20 rpm. If the speed does increase, check the fast idle speed as described below. If it does not increase, carry out the basic idle setting procedure.

10 Refer first to paragraphs 1 to 3 of this Section. The pump adjustments should only

|

be disturbed if the idle speed is unreliable, or significantly above or below the specified

Basic idle setting procedure 12 Using the idle speed adjusting screw (B),

set the idle speed to 850 rpm, release the fast idle waxstat device cable end stop and reposition it at the end of the cable so that it can have no effect. Insert a spacer 0.5 mm thick between the throttle lever and the residual capacity adjusting screw (A), then

slacken its locknut and turn the screw anticlockwise (away from the throttle lever) one full turn. Readjust the idle speed to 850 rpm using the idle speed adjusting screw. Repeat

the procedure until turning the residual capacity adjusting screw has no effect on the idle speed (to ensure that the engine is not idling on the residual capacity adjusting screw). 13 Remove the 0.5 mm spacer and replace it with one 1.0 mm thick, then adjust the residual capacity adjusting screw to give an engine speed of 860 to 870 rpm and tighten the screw’s locknut. Remove the 1.0 mm spacer and note the idle speed, then replace

Su

(8) (v0) © 11.7 Idle speed and anti-stall adjustment - CAV fuel injection pump A_ B C

Idle speed/stop lever Idle speed adjusting screw Locknut

D_ Locknut Anti-stall adjustment screw F Throttle lever

11.8 Idle speed adjustment - CAV fuel injection pump

A Insert spacer between idle speed/stop lever and idle speed adjusting screw at point indicated B Fuel return banjo union

Every 6000 miles 2-17

11.11 Adjustment screws - Bosch fuel injection pump A_ Residual capacity (anti-stall) adjusting screw

B Idle speed adjusting screw C Fast idle adjuster screw the spacer with the 0.5 mm thick one. The idle speed should not change. If the idle speed does change, repeat the full procedure. When the basic idle setting is correct, reset the fast ‘idle waxstat device cable and stop to give a 1.0 mm gap between the idle lever and the fast idle adjuster screw (C) when the engine is hot (waxstat in hot mode), then proceed to check the fast idle speed. Fast idle speed check 14 To check the fast idle, ensure that the engine is thoroughly hot, then ensure that there is a gap of 1.0 mm between the idle lever and the fast idle adjuster screw (C). Adjust if necessary by repositioning the stop on the end of the fast idle waxstat device cable. With the engine idling, move the idle lever against the fast idle adjuster screw and check that speed rises to 1180 to 1200 rpm. Adjust if necessary by turning the fast idle adjuster screw.

CAV RotoDiesel injection pump Note: A special tool, the spacer 23-076, will

11.15 Fit the spacer (A) and a 1.0 mm thick feeler blade between the anti-stall screw (B) and the throttle lever (C)

be required for this task. If not available, the too! can be replaced by the (careful) use of spacer(s). 15 Fit the special tool or alternative and a 1.0 mm thick feeler blade (to a total thickness of 4.0 mm) between the anti-stall screw and the throttle lever, as shown (see illustration).

16 Using a 20.0 mm thick spacer, hold the idle speed lever (A) away from the adjusting screw, as shown in illustrations 11.7, 11.8

and 11.15. 17 Slacken the locknut (D) and turn the antistall adjustment screw (E) to give an engine idle speed of 900 + 100 rpm. 18 Remove the 20.0 mm thick spacer. The idle speed stop lever must return and contact the adjuster screw (B). 19 Remove the special tool and the feeler blade. Slacken the idle speed adjuster screw locknut and turn the screw to obtain an idle speed of between 840 and 870 rpm. 20 Should any problems of slow deceleration or stalling be evident, recheck the preceding

adjustment. If the faults persist, then stalling may be corrected by turning the throttle lever anti-stall screw (by a maximum of a quarter of a turn) clockwise. To eliminate slow deceleration, turn the throttle lever anti-stall screw (again, by no more than a quarter turn) anti-clockwise.

1.8 litre engine - turbocharged Note: Pump adjustments should only be disturbed if the idle speed is unreliable, or significantly above or below the specified range. See Chapter 5 for details of the idle speed adjustment actuator.

Stage 1 - Idle and residual fuel setting checks 21 Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature, that is until the cooling fan cuts in. 22 Check that there is 2.0 mm of play on the waxstat cable at the pump end. If necessary, use the cable adjuster to alter the amount of play (see illustrations).

we

ie

11.22a Check for play in the waxstat cable at the pump end...

a Y

iS

J

aN dey Seer vi

M4 8 or

11.22b ... and, if necessary, use the cable adjuster to alter the amount of play

pa

oi Every 6000 miles es

as

throttle lever

23 Take a note of the idle speed. 24 Insert a 4.0 mm gauge (feeler blade, or twist drill), between the residual fuel screw and throttle lever (see illustration).

25 Rotate the stop lever in a clockwise direction and insert a 3.0 mm diameter pin, or

twist

drill,

through

the

idle

lever

ithe

11.25 Rotate the stop lever in a ciockwise direction and insert a 3.0 mm diameter “pin” through the idle lever

(see

illustration). 26 Take a note of the residual idle speed. 27 \f the idle and residual speeds are correct, then check that the engine deceleration time from maximum no load speed to idle is no more than 5 seconds without stalling or undershoot. If adjustment is required, proceed as follows:

Stage 2 - Idle resetting procedure 28 Insert a 4.0 mm feeler blade between the residual fuel screw and throttle lever. 29 Rotate the stop lever in a clockwise direction and insert a 3.0 mm diameter pin

through the idle lever. 30 Adjust the residual fuel screw to give an engine speed of 900 + 100 rpm. 31 Remove the feeler blade and pin. 32 Turning the idle speed adjuster screw, see illustration 11.25, set the idle speed to 850 + 50 rpm. 33 Now check that the engine deceleration time from maximum no load speed to idle is no more than 5 seconds without stalling.

34 If the engine stalls, turn the residual fuel screw anti-clockwise (viewed from the rear of the pump) one quarter turn. 35 Recheck all operations from paragraph 28. 36 If the deceleration time exceeds 5 seconds, turn the residual fuel screw clockwise (viewed from the rear of the pump) one quarter turn. 37 Recheck all operations from paragraph 28.

12 Fluid leakage and crankcase ventilation check

HU

Fluid leakage 1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of coolant or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that over a period of time some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected but what you are

really looking for is any indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapter of this Manual. 2 Check the security and condition of all engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips are in place and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring which could cause more serious problems in the future. If wire type hose clips are used, it may be a good idea to

4 lf any damage or deterioration is discovered, do not drive the vehicle until the necessary repair work has been carried out.

Crankcase ventilation 5 Inspect the crankcase ventilation hoses as

described in paragraph 3 (see illustration). 6 Clean the hoses if they are blocked with sludge or “mayonnaise”. Also clean the non-return valve on the camshaft cover.

13 Vacuum pump check :

xx

x

1 Inspect the vacuum pump for oil leaks, the security and condition of hoses and security of mountings (see illustration). 2 Check the operation of the pump as follows. y 3 With the engine stopped, operate the footbrake several times to destroy any residual vacuum in the servo. Keep the brake pedal depressed and start the engine. The pedal should be felt to move downwards as the vacuum pump operates on the servo. If not, there is a fault in the pump, the servo or their connecting pipe (not forgetting the non-return valve). 4A defective vacuum pump must be renewed - no spares are available.

replace them with screw-type clips.

3 Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed.

HAYNES ra

fe

Pre

aN

£

3

/ ie

12.5 Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hoses to check if they are blocked

=

Leaks in the cooling system

will usually show up as white or rust- coloured deposits around the area

adjoining the leak.

13.1 Inspect the vacuum pump hoses for leakage and security

Routine maintenance and servicing 2-19 Every 12 000 miles / 20 000 km drivebett check -

EN

1 With each drivebelt fully accessible, rotate its drive pulley to inspect its full length. Check for signs of cracks, splitting and fraying, or for signs of wear or damage such as glazing

(shiny patches) or separation on the belt plies. Renew the belt if worn or damaged and check the condition and security of the pulleys, the mounting brackets and the adjuster components and their fasteners. 2 If the belt is in good condition, check the tension and adjust as necessary. 3 For information on belt renewal and adjustment, refer to Chapter 6.

Every 18 000 miles / 30 000 km ri

Ra

.

ee al SS Fuel filter element renew - w

procedure, read carefully the precautions listed in Section 3, Chapter 4, Part A.

Bosch clamp-fixing cartridge filter 1 Drain the filter completely. 2 Note carefully the orientation of the fuel inlet and outlet hoses and the filter vent screw (see illustration). Clean them thoroughly and

obtain new hose clamps and/or flexible hoses if the condition of those fitted is in any way suspect. 3 Releasing the clamps’ with pliers, disconnect the fuel inlet and outlet hoses from the filter stubs. Plug or cap hoses and unions to keep fuel in and dirt out. 4 Slacken the clamp screw and withdraw the filter from its bracket, taking care to spill as little as possible of any remaining fuel. 5 Fit the new filter to the clamp, aligning its stubs with the hoses as noted on removal and observing any directional markings on the filter. Fit the new flexible hoses and/or clamps (if required), then connect the hoses to the filter and fasten them securely with the clamps.

6 Tighten the filter mounting clamp screw, but be careful not to overtighten it (nominal torque wrench setting of 1.5 to 2.5 Nm/1 to 2 lbf ft only), or the filter may be crushed. Check that the drain cock is closed. 7 Reconnect the battery earth lead and restart the engine. Considerable cranking may be required to bleed the air from the system. To spare the battery, this time may be reduced by filling the filter with clean fuel via its vent screw opening but it is essential that no dirt is introduced into the system and that no diesel fuel is poured over vulnerable components when doing this. . 8 On completion, dispose safely of the old filter and the drained fuel. Check carefully all disturbed components to ensure that there are no leaks (or air or fuel) when the engine is restarted.

CAV RotoDiesel filter

15.2 Bosch clamp-fixing cartridge filter A Fuel inlet hose B Fuel outlet hose C Vent screw

D Drain cock E Clamp

9 Drain the filter completely. 10 Support the filter bowl and unscrew the through-bolt from the filter head (see illustration). Withdraw the filter bowl and the element, taking care to spill as little as possible of any remaining fuel.

11 Using a small mirror and a torch if necessary, check that all seals are removed from above and below the filter element, from

the through-bolt and from (the underside of) the filter head. Precise details of seal type and location will vary according to engine and model, as well as depending on the make of filter element used, but all these seals must be renewed as a matter of course before the filter is reassembled; usually they will be supplied with the new element. 12 Wipe clean the filter head and bowl. Check that the drain cock in the filter bowl is clean, that its seals are in good condition and correctly located, then tighten it securely closed. 13 Ensuring that all seals are renewed, fitted as noted on removal and are correctly located, refit the element to the filter head, followed by the filter bowl, then ensure that the seals above and below the element are not distorted or dislodged as the through-bolt is refitted and tightened securely. 14 Reconnect the battery earth lead, bleed the system, then restart the engine. 15 On-completion, dispose safely of the old

filter and the drained fuel. Check carefully all disturbed components to ensure that there are no leaks (of air or fuel) when the engine is restarted.

220 Routine maintenance and servicing Every 24 000 miles / 40 000 km 16 Fuel filter element renewal - SS 1.6 litre engine

~

EN

Note: Before carrying out the following procedure, read carefully the precautions listed in Section 3, Chapter 4, Part A.

Early type Bosch filter (separate element) 1 Drain the filter completely. Clean around the sealing area between the filter head and body. 2 Unscrew and remove the filter body. Use a chain or strap wrench if it is tight (see illustration). Remove and discard the element and seal (see illustration). 3 Using a clean, non-fluffy rag, wipe clean the filter head and body. Fit the new element into the filter body and apply clean fuel to the new sealing ring. Screw the filter body into position, tightening it by hand only. Make sure that the drain cock is closed.

4 Reconnect the battery and start the engine. Considerable cranking may be necessary to purge the air from the system. The filter can be filled with clean fuel via the vent plug on its head if wished, but it is extremely important that no dirt be introduced. 5 Check for leaks from the filter seal, tightening further if necessary. Stop the engine and remove the clutch housing protection material.

Later type Bosch filter (spin-on cartridge) 6 Drain the filter completely. Using a chain or strap wrench, unscrew the filter cartridge from the filter head and remove it, taking care to spill as little as possible of any remaining fuel. 7 Check that both seals on the top of the new filter cartridge are correctly located in the groove and retainer provided (as applicable) and ensure that its drain cock is closed. Smear the seals with clean fuel and screw on the new cartridge, tightening it by hand only, or as directed by the manufacturer.

8 Reconnect

16.2a Using a chain wrench to unscrew a Bosch fuel filter element

the battery earth lead and

restart the engine. Considerable cranking may be required to bleed the air from the system. To spare the battery, this time may be reduced by filling the filter with clean fuel via the vent screw opening on the filter head but it is essential that no dirt is introduced into the system and that no diesel fuel is poured over vulnerable components when doing this. 9 On completion, dispose safely of the old filter and the drained fuel. Check carefully all disturbed components to ensure that there are no leaks (of air or fuel) when the engine is

CAV RotoDiesel filter 10 Refer to the procedure given for the same type of filter fitted to the 1.8 litre engine.

17 Air cleaner element renewal

1.6 litre engine 1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Release the seven spring clips which secure the air cleaner cover. The two lowest clips are out of sight. 3 Release the throttle cable from the clips on the air cleaner cover. 4 Disconnect the air inlet hose from the cover (see illustration).

:

5 Remove the cover’and extract the air cleaner element, noting which way round it is fitted (see illustration). 6 Wipe clean inside the cover and the accessible part of the manifold. 7 Fit the new element, making sure that it is the right way round and that the sealing strip is engaged properly. 8 Refit the air cleaner cover and secure it with ' the spring slips. Reconnect the air inlet hose.

restarted.

ey

q

}

17.4 Disconnect the inlet hose from the air cleaner cover...

16.2b Components of early type separate element Bosch fuel filter A_ B

Drain cock Filter body

C

Filter element

D_ Sealing ring

E

Filter head air cleaner element

Every 24 000 miles 2-2:

at

Pa

17.10 Disconnect the air intake duct from the manifold...

a

17.15 Loosen the hose retaining clip (A) and remove the air intake system resonator by pulling it from its two retainers (B)

1.8 litre engine - non turbocharged 10 Open and support the bonnet. On Fiesta models, disconnect the air inlet duct from the manifold (see illustration). 11 Release the air cleaner cover retaining clips and where applicable, undo the cover retaining screw. Lift the cover from the main body to allow access to the air cleaner element (see illustration). 12 Take out the air cleaner element and discard it (see illustration). 13 Wipe out the new casing and fit the new

art

17.11... release the air cleaner cover retaining clips...

17.16a Loosen the two retaining clips (arrowed) and detach the MAF sensor from the air cleaner cover

element into position. 14

Refit the cover and connect the air duct.

1.8 litre engine - turbocharged Mondeo 15 On early models, loosen the hose retaining clip and remove the air inlet system resonator by pulling it from its two retainers (see illustration). 16 On all models, loosen the two retaining clips and detach the mass airflow (MAF) sensor assembly from the air cleaner cover (see illustration). This operation may prove

Wi 4

17.12... and take out the air cleaner element - Fiesta

difficult due to resistance from the rubber retaining ring. Unplug the vent pipe from the cover (see illustration). 17 Release the air cleaner cover retaining clips. Some of these clips are not readily accessible and difficult to release because of adjoining components but it is possible to release them by pulling the air cleaner box clear of said components. Lift the cover to allow access to the air cleaner element (see illustration). 18 Take out the air cleaner element and discard it (see illustration).

\\\i

NWN

wit €

17.16b Unplug the vent pipe from the cover

17.17 Release the air cleaner cover

retaining clips and lift the cover to allow access to the air cleaner element

17.18 Remove the air cleaner element Mondeo

222 Every 24 000 miles

i

17.21 Loosen the hose retaining clip (A) and detach the turbocharger intake hose from the air cleaner cover. Unplug the vent pipe (B) and remove the four cover retaining screws (C)

19 Wipe out the casing and fit the new element into position. 20 Refit the cover and _ reconnect. all disturbed components, lightly greasing the mating surface of the mass airflow (MAF)

sensor rubber retaining ring. Escort

18 Valve clearance check - 1.6

litre engine

21 Loosen the hose retaining clip and detach the inlet hose to the turbocharger from the air cleaner element cover (see illustration). 22

25 Wipe out the casing and fit the new element into position. 26 Refit the cover and reconnect the hose and pipe.

Unplug the vent pipe from the opposite

side of the cover. 23 Remove the air cleaner cover retaining screws and lift the cover to allow access to the air cleaner element. 24 Take out the air cleaner element and discard it (see illustration).

Ww

x

WS

4 1 Release the breather hoses and remove the camshaft cover. It is secured by 10 bolts. Recover the washers and the reinforcing strips, noting their locations. Remove the gasket, sealing strip and plug. Obtain new ones for reassembly if necessary. 2 Turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation until two cam lobes for any one

18.2 Injection pump fuel shut-off solenoid (arrowed)

cylinder are pointing upwards (relative to the engine) at the same angle. It is permissible to “bounce” the engine round on the starter motor for this procedure, but disconnect the fuel shut-off solenoid first (see illustration). 3 Measure the clearance between the bases of the two cam lobes and the underlying shims using feeler blades (see illustration). Record the thickness of blade(s) required to give a firm sliding fit. The desired clearances are given in the Specifications. Note that the clearances for inlet and exhaust valves are different. From the pulley end of the engine, the valve sequence is: 1-E-1-E-I-E-I-E 4 If adjustment is required, refer to Chapter 3, Part A. ‘

Routine maintenance and servicing 2-23 Every 36 000 miles / 60 000 km

Warning: Take care to avoid scalding when removing the expansion tank cap. Place a thick cloth over the cap before turning it anti-clockwise.

Use a clean tray if the coolant is to be salvaged. Slacken the radiator drain plug until coolant flows out (see illustration). Take care to avoid scalding if the coolant is hot. 4 When draining from the radiator is complete, move the tray under the engine and remove the block drain plug (see illustration). Allow the coolant to drain from the block. 5 Close or refit the drain plugs now so that they are not lost or forgotten.

Caution: Never operate the vehicle with

Flushing

WHEE

plain water in the cooling system, except in an emergency. Apart from the risk of freezing in winter weather, serious corrosion and rust and scale formation may occur.

Draining 1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Place a thick cloth over the expansion tank cap, see Section 4 of this Chapter. Turn the cap anti-clockwise as far as the first stop and

wait for any pressure to be released, then depress it and turn it further anti-clockwise to remove it. Take care to avoid scalding. 3 Position a drain tray beneath the radiator.

6 Flushing should not be necessary if the specified coolant has been used and renewed at the correct intervals. When coolant renewal has been neglected, however, or if much running has been done using plain water or inferior coolant mixtures, rust and scale may clog the system and cause overheating. Flushing may then be beneficial and should be carried out as follows. 7 Drain the system. 8 Remove the thermostat. 9 Disconnect the bottom hose from the radiator. Insert a garden hose into the thermostat housing and run water through the engine in the reverse direction to normal flow, so that it goes in via the thermostat housing

and out at the bottom hose. Continue until the water emerges clean. 10 Run the water through the radiator in the normal direction of flow, ie top to bottom. In severe cases of obstruction, reverse flushing may be helpful, but the radiator should be removed and inverted for this. 11 Chemical descalers or flushing agents should be used only as a last resort. Use such

materials in accordance with their maker’s instructions.

12 When thermostat hoses.

ae

flushing and

pat

19.4 The engine block co olant drain plug (arrowed) next to dipstick tube

is complete,

reconnect

the

refit the disturbed

13 Refill the system.

Filling 14 Make sure that the drain plugs are secure, and that all hoses are in good condition and

their clips tight. 15 When a bleed screw is fitted in the radiator top hose, slacken it (see illustration). 16 Fill with coolant via the expansion tank filler hole. If new. antifreeze is being introduced, pour in the specified quantity of

antifreeze first, followed by clean soft water. 17 Fill the system slowly, massaging the large coolant hoses to disperse airlocks. 18 When a bleed screw is fitted, close it when coolant begins to emerge. 19 Fill the system up to the MAX mark on the expansion tank, then refit the cap. 20 Reconnect the battery. Start the engine and run it up to operating temperature (indicated by the fan cutting in). Check for leaks. 21 Stop the engine and allow it to cool. Check the level in the expansion tank and top-up again to the MAX mark if necessary. 22 Recheck the level after the vehicle is next run.

Antifreeze mixture 23 Do not operate the vehicle with plain water in the system, except in an emergency. Apart from the risk of freezing in winter weather, serious corrosion and rust and scale formation may occur. 24 In climates where frost protection is not required, a corrosion inhibitor must be used in’ accordance with its maker’s instructions. 25 Only use ethylene glycol based antifreeze to the maker’s specification and soft water rainwater is ideal. Do not use antifreeze containing methanol, which is inflammable and may evaporate.

Aah

19.15 The coolant bleed screw (arrowed) is fitted in the radiator top hose

224 Every 36 000 miles

mf

20.1 Detaching the alternator/coolant pump drivebelt cover 26 The recommended concentration of antifreeze for the UK climate is given in “Lubricants, fluids and capacities”. Do not use widely different concentrations without first seeking expert advice. 27 Antifreeze must be renewed at the specified intervals to maintain the

must be discarded and new ones fitted. Do not re-use or retention a drivebelt which has already been used. This could lead to the belt becoming over-tensioned, leading to its failure

anti-corrosion properties.

1 Begin by carrying out the following preliminary dismantling procedures: a) Jack up the front right-hand side of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”) b) Disconnect the battery earth (negative) lead c) Detaching the shield(s) and/or cover(s) as necessary (see illustration), remove the alternator/coolant pump drivebelt d) On Fiesta models (Escort/Orion as well depending on the task to be carried out and the tools available) the front righthand roadwheel and the wheel arch liner should also be removed e) With the engine still in the vehicle, it will

20 Camshaft and injection pump drivebelt renewal - 1.8 litre engine

< xiNs

Warning: Never re-use or A

retention a camshaft drivebelt which has already been used.

This could lead to the belt becoming over-tensioned, leading to its

failure and resulting in serious engine damage. Note: Whenever the camshaft and fuel injection pump drivebelts are removed or if the belt tension is released for any reason, both belts

Ys

20.2a Remove the drivebelt lower cover retaining screw . .

which could result in serious engine damage

Removal

assisted steering pump to reach the TDC pin hole plug and to insert a timing pin f) Improved access may be gained by unbolting the coolant expansion tank and, if fitted, the power-assisted steering fluid reservoir on Escort/Orion models so that these can be moved aside (without disconnecting them) as required. On Fiesta models the air cleaner assembly must be removed g) Where applicable, slacken the engine lifting eye retaining nut(s) or bolt(s) and swing it clear of the drivebelt cover. Where a throttle damper is fitted which will prevent the removal of the cover, this must first be removed 2 Working under the vehicle, unscrew the front (vertical) retaining bolt and the rear (horizontal) pivot bolt, then withdraw the drivebelt lower cover from the crankshaft pulley/vibration damper (see illustrations). 3 If not already removed, detach the plastic fuel deflector from the alternator mounting bracket (see illustration).

*

:

probably be necessary to remove the

alternator and, if fitted, the power-

a 20.2b... and swivel the cover downwards

20.3 Detach the plastic fuel deflector from the alternator mounting bracket

Every 36 000 miles 225

oad

Ei

20.4a Release the three camshaft drivebelt cover retaining clips...

20.4d ... to provide access to the drivebelt

4 Returning to the engine compartment, release the three camshaft drivebelt cover retaining clips and unscrew the single (central) retaining bolt, then manoeuvre the cover upwards and withdraw it (see illustrations). 5 Using the bolt in the centre of the crankshaft pulley vibration damper, turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation until the drilling in the injection pump flange (CAV) or the recess (Bosch) is aligned with the drilling in the

G

20.4b .. . and unscrew the single (central) cover retaining bolt

20.4c Manoeuvre the cover upwards and withdraw it...

pump housing. This gives the TDC position for pistons 1 and 4 (see illustrations). 6 Release the belt tensioner and then remove the camshaft drivebelt. If the injection pump drivebelt is to be renewed, then its tensioner should be removed and the belt withdrawn. 7 Align the camshaft sprocket and the injection pump sprocket, so that the drillings and the recess in the sprockets are aligned with the drillings in the cylinder head and the pump housing. 8 A special pin will now be required to time the camshaft sprocket and the injection pump sprocket. If a CAV pump is fitted, then pins number 23-019 will time both sprockets, but if a Bosch pump is fitted, pin number 23-029 will be required for the pump sprocket, and one pin 23-019 for the camshaft sprocket. 9 Twist drills will serve as substitute pins, but they must be in unworn condition, and be long enough to enter the holes in the pump or cylinder head. A drill of 9.5 mm diameter will be required for the Bosch type pump, plus one of 6.0 mm diameter for the camshaft sprocket.

10 Two drills of 6.0 mm diameter will be required for the CAV type pump (one for the camshaft sprocket and one for the pump). 11 Insert the appropriate timing pins (see illustrations). 12 Screw in the TDC setting pin referred to in Chapter 3. Make sure that the crankshaft is in contact with the timing pin (see illustrations).

Fitting and tensioning 13 Fit the new injection pump drivebelt so that it is taut between the crankshaft and pump sprockets, and the directional arrows are pointing the correct way. 14 Slacken the injection pump sprocket bolts half a turn, and also slacken the belt tensioner bolts half a turn. Allow the belt tensioner to snap against the belt. Retighten all the slackened bolts, but make sure that the bolts are not at the ends of their slots, otherwise any further adjustment would be impossible. 15 Fit the new camshaft drivebelt, with the directional arrows correct for normal crankshaft rotational directional. The belt should be slack on the tensioner side and taut between sprockets.

H.20632 —

20.5a Toothed belt and sprocket identification (engine removed)

1 2 3 4

Camshaft sprocket Idler sprocket Fuel pump sprocket Fuel pump belt tensioner

5 Crankshaft pulley vibration damper

6 Auxiliary shaft sprocket 7 Coolant pump sprocket 8 Camshaft belt tensioner

20.5b Drivebelts with crankshaft at TDC - Nos 1 and 4 pistons

A B

Camshaft drivebelt tensioner Fuel injection pump drivebelt tensioner

226 Every 36 000 miles

20.12a TDC pin hole plug

16 Slacken the camshaft sprocket bolts and the tensioner bolts half a turn. Allow the tensioner to snap against the belt. 17 Retighten all slackened bolts. Remove all the timing pins and turn the crankshaft through two revolutions in the normal direction of rotation until the slot in the injection pump sprocket is at the highest point (12 o’clock). 18 Now turn the crankshaft anti-clockwise until the slot in the injection pump sprocket is at the 11 o’clock position.

19 Screw in the TDC setting pin. 20 Slowly turn the crankshaft clockwise until the crankshaft contacts the timing pin. 21 Insert the timing pins in the camshaft and the injection pump sprockets. 22 Slacken the bolts (through half a turn) that secure the camshaft and injection pump sprockets and the belt tensioners. 23 Depress both drivebelts on the taut side opposite to the tensioners, and then release them.

24 Retighten all slackened bolts. 25 Remove all timing pins and screw in the TDC pin hole plug. 26 Refit the belt covers. 27 Refit and tension the alternator drivebelt, then refit all components removed for better

access. 28 Reconnect the battery.

2 Release the breather hoses and remove the camshaft cover. It is secured by ten bolts. Recover the washers and reinforcing strips,

noting their location. Remove the gasket, sealing strip and plug, obtaining new ones for reassembly if necessary. 3 Unclip and remove the camshaft drivebelt cover (see illustration).

21 Camshaft drivebelt renewal -

1.6 litre engine

WHEY

Note: Two special tools will have to be bought or made for this operation. They are needed to position the crankshaft and camshaft accurately at TDC, No. 1 firing. Refer to the information given for valve timing in Chapter 3, Part A for more details.

Removal 1 Disconnect lead.

Feat

the battery

earth

(negative)

21.3 Unclip the camshaft drivebelt cover (clips arrowed) -

Every 36 000 miles

Hy

f

21.4 Injection pump timing marks

A

Sprocket mark

B

2-27

21.5a Remove the plug from the crankcase...

Timing cover mark

4 Turn the engine in the normal direction of

rotation until the timing mark on the injection pump sprocket is aligned with the mark on the timing cover (see illustration). 5 Remove the plug from the crankcase and insert the TDC setting pin (see illustrations). Carefully turn the engine further until the crankshaft web contacts the pin. 6 Insert the camshaft setting tool so that it is a snug fit in the camshaft tail (see illustration). — 7 Counterhold the camshaft sprocket and slacken its bolt. 8 Slacken the drivebelt tensioner pivot bolt. This bolt is of the Torx type, so the appropriate key will be needed to deal with it. Access is restricted with the engine installed; the key must be of the angled type. 9 Mark the running direction of the drivebelt if it is to be re-used. Slip the belt off the sprockets and remove it.

10 Do not rotate the camshaft or crankshaft with the belt removed. Piston/valve contact may occur. 11° Make sure that the camshaft sprocket is free to turn. Break the taper if necessary by tapping the sprocket with a wooden or plastic mallet.

Fitting and tensioning 12 Commence refitting by placing the belt over the sprockets, observing the running direction if it is a used belt (see illustration). Tension the belt initially by levering the tensioner anti-clockwise and nipping up the pivot bolt (see illustration). An Allen key will be required to lever the tensioner. 13 Fit the belt tension gauge (tool No. 21 113) to the longest run of the belt (see illustration), following the instructions supplied with the gauge. Read the belt tension and compare it with the value given in

the Specifications. Adjust if necessary by slackening the tensioner pivot bolt, moving the tensioner and retightening the bolt. Note: The camshaft sprocket must be free on its taper during tensioner movement. 14 In the absence of the proper belt tension gauge, correct tension can be estimated by attempting to twist the belt, with finger and thumb, in the middle of its longest run. A correctly tensioned belt should not be capable of being twisted more than 90° by anyone of average strength. A belt which is too tight will hum or honk in use; a slack belt may wear rapidly or even jump sprocket teeth. It is wise to have the tension checked by a Ford dealer if the belt has been set up by rule of thumb. 15 When the belt tension is correct, tighten the tensioner pivot bolt to the specified torque.

camshaft tail

»08 Every 36 000 miles

ae

:

Be

3

5

21.12b Tension the belt initially by levering the tensioner anti-clockwise and nipping up the pivot bolt

io

(

tg

*s

Z

21.18b Camshaft cover sealing plug

Every 36 000 miles 229

Eo

a

21.18d Reinforcing strip (arrowed) - pulley end, front side

21.18e Reinforcing strip (arrowed) - flywheel end. This one is marked TOP

16 Counterhold the camshaft sprocket and tighten the sprocket bolt to the specified torque. 17 Remove the camshaft setting tool and the TDC setting pin. Refit the setting hole plug

and tighten it to the specified torque. Refit the camshaft drivebelt cover. 18 Refit the camshaft cover, if necessary using a new gasket, sealing strip and plug (see illustrations). Secure with the bolts,

48 000 mile / 80 000

km Service

x Beers

3% ¥

:

“~

Refer to Section 18 of this Chapter, noting the following points: a) The camshaft cover is secured by three bolts on all engines

b) When the camshaft cover is removed to reveal an oil baffle (later non turbo. and turbocharged engines) (see illustration), unscrew the retaining nuts and withdraw the baffle, then refit the nuts (which also secure the camshaft bearing caps), tightening them to the specified torque wrench setting

c) Check the valve clearances, noting the

washers and reinforcing strips (see illustrations). Tighten the bolts progressively to the specified torque. 19 Refit the breather hoses. 20 Reconnect the battery earth lead.

clearances given in the Specifications. d) Unscrew the retaining nuts, refit the baffle, then tighten all ten camshaft bearing cap nuts to the specified torque wrench setting and refit the camshaft

cover If adjustment is required, refer to Chapter 3, Part B.

eA et x

Camshaft oil baffle (arrowed) fitted to later engines

sis

ios RD

a

em

Le eae ‘ zeeit). re

"

3A¢1

Chapter 3 Part A: Engine overhaul - 1.6 litre engine Contents Camshaft drivebelt - inspection and checking tension ............ 4 Camshaft drivebelt - removal, refitting and tensioning ............ 5 Seeenam removal and refitting ....) 0. eee cee ee see ewe eine7 Coolant pump and thermostat - removal and refitting ............ 12 Compression test - description and interpretation ............... 33 Cylinder head and pistons - decarbonisation.................-. 11 Cylinder head - dismantling, overhaul and reassembly ........... 10 Cylinder head - removal and refitting ............ 2. ecb eee eeeee 9 enone complete dismantling ...... 0.2 cece ee cee eae e eee 25 Engmemcomplete reassembly ....... 0.0... ccc cece eee nme 29 Engine components - examination and renovation .............. 27 Engine dismantling - general information .............0 000 eae 24 Engine - initial start-up after overhaul ......... 0.cece eee neee 32 Eamieainana oll filter renewal... 2... 6... wes ween edane elvan 3 Engine reassembly - general information .............0 eee eae 28 engine rotting to transmission ......... 0:0 csecw sedgeecnan 30 Engine/transmission mountings - removal and refitting ........... 20

Engine/transmission - methods of removal .............00e0005 21 4-5)airyseyete v taa’et e 'uje) syeuatls lan orouatoh aii 31 ENginectransmission:> TEmoOval i). asc 5 des 'ale spa ene ely,aintpjrete 22 ENQINGFENSMISSION =" SSPAratlOny ok ayers eve'al sprays, axepstlgyel aceabingeped anSisohans 23 Examination and renovation - general information ............... 26 Flywheel - removal and refitting ............6. cece cence er enees 19 CHOMOTAL WOIMAHONY ca sivideay bincitcssob opie Caen Aas bo pds enue gs 1 Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle........... 2 Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting ................4.. 17 CHUSEAS me TONAWall trate vate vs k hee Met sls 6 via e > \ cee e ehenetely 13 Pistons and connecting rods - removal and refitting ............. 18 SUMS FOMMOVEN EMC NERV Sitio ie) tera taecllesurbittete «Mie oahs uwelé 14 Timing case - removal and refitting .........-.0.ecee usec nae 16 Timing cover and gears - removal and refitting ................. 15 Valve clearances - checking and adjustment ................008. 6 Valve timing - checking and adjustment

PSOE) CaNISIUNSEION TOI CLINIC)

Degrees of difficulty Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable

for beginner with some experience

. EN “~

Fairly difficult, NS suitable for competent »

x

DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult, suitable for expert DIY or professional

3A

Specifications General RET

Cerise ieee wis alelope ely ween 0)ai a big elene Ronettivin ts

Designation: ee a Fade ik 2)ica Stsloys'svaiefe)elotele1a aie wcetalay Sinte a wie wt jee Escort and Orion (early) Escort and Orion (late) Type reference IPTC TIONING) yc)ac cinteitinteraici fauwis's o's bisvae oleate Meuale, Coe Cubic capacity Compression ratio Compression pressure (at starter motor cranking speed) I NRA Eos 08s ule ois sie dis aan o o-ae 0 aie o Evel ota% TN ome INT ci ian cl ssishivisColp ve iwi ou dine» 6 whe bieady lets Maximum speed: Continuous Intermittent SIs nyFicssa ge, wibha'ig)n\\s Ries sp ojsi.o!diea.aisle ein @ pide ois

Four-cylinder in-line, four-stroke, overhead camshaft, compression ignition

LTB LTA

80.0 x 80.0 mm 1608 cc

Col 28 to 34 bar (406 to 493 Ibf/in’) 40 kW (54 bhp) @ 4800 rpm 95 Nm (70 Ibf ft) @ 3000 rpm 4800 rpm 5350 rpm 1-3-4-2/(No 1 at pulley end)

Cylinder block Main bearing bore diameter ...............0005: Hani, Sieebanetelaee,bye Cylinder bore diameter: Class A

Class E(first rebore) Class F (second rebore)

57.683 to 57.696 mm 80.000 80.015 80.160 80.175 80.500 81.000

to to to to to to

80.015 80.030 80.175 80.190 80.515 81.015

mm mm mm mm mm mm

3A*2

Engine overhaul - 1.6 litre LE EE EE

Crankshaft Main bearing journal diameter:

SAAN

FF ara ice5% cu Riya we gicte 99 are eRe

aL

ne

ea

Undersize (production ‘or repair): «sve ete oe eee, Big-end bearing journal diameter: SLANT ook edo v ipmiso witid ie gee Ae ae Ae ann One ai UndersiZe {production.or repair) 2.5 ane cee eee fe ae eons

Centre main bearing width: BALAPVIOU ba’a's iu So oohcw aaa s Seerege Oa tere) eee enon Cd ams a ge Oversize (production Or. repair) wae seaso oeeanns ce aes Bearing shell identification:

SSPMIEN! Gia 5'sclev's « hots MARR ROL eee ee ee en RIM OTSIZG F252. shaim Nye ache MGS MOTTE eee Ste eee Mant bearing clearance Gis asdscn oresc wescea eee Crhe Big-end bearing clearance cetnac. suche ee ck oe ee ee

Rrenkshialt ondhoat-.

25. < aah anlae mente oe tt

oe

ee Pe

Connecting rod endfloat (between crank webs)...............000Torque needed to rotate fitted crankshaft (without connecting rods'or pistopis) ashe gau cai ss ea caine Tee

Pistons

53.970 to 53.990 mm 53.720 to 53.740 mm

48.970 to 48.990 mm 48.720 to 48.740 mm

31.690 to 31.750 mm 32.070 to 32.130 mm None Green 0.015 to 0.062 mm 0.016 to 0.070 mm

0.093 to 0.306 mm 0.125 to 0.325 mm 10 Nm (7 Ibf ft) max

;

Diameter (measured at 90° to gudgeon pin bore): Glass Ate tte cca Pia erevaidia ysl alg Ree Cee RE pee DIAS IB eters Cas shee 8k ow eee eRe Oe ee Glass C ieee ena roe Meee A acslappey Weta cuminfaker aNt ccd’s ClASS IDE Neier shorts cies en tte set Cee Ane Te eer ClassiE (firstrebore) tos. . vate oe e oe ee Ee ee jase © (second rebore) sc... 5 adore ton x cate ee ae ae eee Clearance in bores (new): CIASSOS'A TO Dit neta ve cotate esisie Sera RIEL aL a ara ees ees ClassesiE and iawn emer is pease gm Site aahaha eae Meee orn Giston protmusion at 1G. a saaeat tee sy oy en ee a

79.960 to 79.975 mm 79.975 to 79.990 mm 80.120 to 80.135 mm 80.135 to 80.150 mm 80.461 to 80.479 mm 80.961 to 80.979 mm ; 0.025 to 0.055 mm 0.021 to 0.054 mm 0.430 to 0.860 mm

Piston rings Clearance in groove: HLOPICOMPFOSSION Fyarayoceehcd Selo Tee RIG eRe tera Tae SECONE COMPFeSsslOfi-e ec cartel earl ees ae ee reo OM GONTON, aria cd'clen a etme joeolan GeeSeeea Reon, ee ee End gap (fitted): Tap:Compression’s :auds.iemspelers ew Goa Die Wrcucloreeiee Gere

4 23 20

3 12 15

10 33 9 45 9 50 6 to 8 24 8

Z 24 7 33 T 37 4to6 18 5

30 25 60° 20°

22 18 60° 20°

SEAERAMGTICO=LIGKITGM) 5 winoeinie ac a anne wits no's cha w la eeie ees see Crankshaft Main bearing cap bolts: NES e005 a)Ca) cL athe’Oe a ae Woe ©,gunyia. nitfos a wiviblatene @ 0°oka 27 Stage 2 (angle-tighten) ............. tata ahae hale tactic ah tena AMSTEL (hen MR TERMS ylGoccsasloyes aly aie)s's\e SiN \ne ae 9 halve ans a%e «dip/eee b 0 ve 20 Crankshaft pulley vibration damper centre bolt: aM Mondeo

ACSTICLY A000 ais spo tcls Sa d's!ninrdlo osya's(acs 4 wees LOMCICR Staats iy

did

VILA STS AAS aN gies siteSiatahclave(po a-s\p woo lela sewed Peary

150

ie oly

Unscrew 90°

IN

EY, Rea alcinc ins's ¢!eoel'eldepece aoe apart Sitsleat aM W abege S18 Vertaints eels Sd ate sc acs bic ee Oe ee pee e eae

ei

eis chewisi Painawale ben ed vamctue tae

EP EMMIEHAEMONES sfhese a's.asietaue bk)ble Goatsie/ ols,ww aye evel o's ela nani beRee Sprocket bolt: REIMER COLIC rear sarc sud.wife ae)ie cain d's ere ee wv 0 x otcrhaln oie SEEMED ced ea Mise fa Gla ew cue vrtlele ors bee oo vg sree eeelE

Flywheel/Clutch Flywheel bolts: _ Stage 1: GONE COON Gatcnste tela citetniacsdane niejerely isisis,«(> »_6)6] skplapeaelalane tae ERM ae NEL oaks alPads 7 iclchsus lave i coe,w/c)ain.0'a\8.)n,) staiieie cabdnansiode eM MTRIENENE LICHILE!I}0sss eihia.a ele a siaels eis case as wo 69m. u efece-sigiuyare SMEMETINGHE HIG ICON) ©cjark cis cnet ahaa iswat Mev eee oa Wee s aidan’ Clutch pressure plate to flywheel ........... 0... ceeee eeee eee

Oil system components NET eo) 210.) ca vi sikleyaieee Wiajaisfolalnis ove vi oie aime pelalle Oil pick-up pipe bracket bolts: a EE ECTIO NA tran retahp eee airech RAMA 'atol's 6 00 ss bia a1diecheliulw ens PEE SVS nes cc laler'ayss UATvu hepa dais. sie'e.® ©»)sue)deeusl e/a syd AIEEE Sse Sr fakes hic) i's Ge ae PL tains Ald w wie ae sd es ee Woe wy Sump pan bolts: RERATEOTION Mh tthe) ota are y Sloacattiade dieser ss Sede Meise © gue,Gialealsib MT RPE IU BAe ior sisf ayia etalache esa)sidcoua isSiw Aon oie ale aielpiele nye Oil drain plug: EMMETT OOVIONY Meee car vena co cebw rcsslicpiata)sijo/;vy ire aw ihafa via 'syWS 6h RMP Pe PPSeopa sath 5G WiulfhUe eae vsiemywy'wlid ove)€ 14)ala 6 a celleoedes Cooling system components Thermostat housing to cylinder head ........... 2.0 ccece eee eee Thermostat housing to vacuum line bracket ...........0.000e0 ee MICE SO fain ce cic aapnbetishhare spatays sis. ide! wa bys een em Ne Pennie to:Cylinder DIOCK .i))5 wisi. Pees ee clee sea neta ewes Radiator bracket to subframe bolt (air conditioning only) ...........

15 133

REI

Ne acgd Mite.loolSatie dia!buw ahe'a)s eile cid We wie Male wan

20 ike

180

SIE

net Auxiliary shaft

3Be5

nee

120 Further tighten 60°

89

9

i

23

17

50 45

37 33

20 18 45° 45° 25 to 34

15 13 45° 45° 18 to 25

25

18

25 22 10

18 16 7

9 11

7 8

28 25

21 18

22

16 7 17 18 7

9 23 25 10

3B

3Be6

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

;

—_—— SS

Torque wrench settings (continued)

Nm

Ibf ft

130

96

Power steering components

mleenng goer to subframe, . dai vcxs ui otek e oe For pump settings refer to Chapter 6

ceeei amen ee

Air conditioning components OOMPLSSSOM MOUNTING. NULS

nase

ba tvs ceninieldie ns ametnac nia

Condensanto radiator bolts), ofe res ars inde een eed esr BOnVaratarmDolts aris a

\

58 Disconnect the following _ electrical Connectors to the cylinder head - see illustration 9.56:

i

9.56 Disconnect the following fuel lines and electrical connectors cylinder head (A) and disconnect the fuel return line adjacent to it (B)

A Fuel feed line to injection

pump B Fuel line to fuel tank

1 Oil pressure switch plug 2 Fuel heater multiplug 3 Glow plug feed

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

fea

3Be11

Ai

i

9.59 Detach the vacuum pipe union (A) and oil return line (B) from the vacuum pump

9.63 Remove the crankcase ventilation system hoses from the camshaft cover

a) Oil pressure switch plug 64 Disconnect the heater hose from the b) Fuel heater multiplug _ cylinder head (A) (see illustration). c) Glow plug feed 65 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the 59 Unscrew the vacuum pipe union from the EGR valve (B). vacuum pump and detach the pipe (see 66 Disconnect the turbocharger oil feed hose illustration). and vacuum hose (see illustration). 60 Detach the oil return line from the vacuum 67 Detach the cable bracket from the pump. alternator and the expansion tank to cylinder 61 Remove the oil dipstick tube bracket with head coolant hose. cable bracket from the thermostat housing. 68 To suspend the engine, first fit a lifting eye 62 Unbolt and remove the thermostat to the alternator retaining bolt shown (see housing - see Section12. — illustration). 63 Remove the crankcase ventilation system 69 Fit the engine support bar and connect it hoses from the camshaft cover (see to the lifting eye, ensuring that the bar is illustration). placed under load by tightening down its

9.66 Disconnect the turbocharger oil feed hose (1) and vacuum hose (2)

9.68 Fit a lifting eye to the alternator

retaining bolt (arrowed)

9.64 Disconnect the heater hose from th cylinder head (A) and the vacuum hose from the EGR valve (B) lifting spindle (see illustration). 70 Remove the two bolts retaining the cover of the power steering pump drivebelt. Remove the cover and loosen the pump mounting bolt (see illustration). 71 Loosen the power steering pump clamp bolt. Rotate the adjuster screw to de-tension the drivebelt and remove the tensioner from the front cover (see illustration). 72 Remove the pump drivebelt and the pump mounting bolt and lift the pump clear of the engine. 73 Remove the engine right-hand mounting bracket, noting that the self-locking nuts will have to be renewed (see illustration).

9.69 Fit the engine support bar and connect it to the lifting eye. Ensure the bar

is placed under load by tightening down its lifting spindle

9.70 Remove the power steering pump drivebelt cover

9.71 Loosen clamp bolt (1) detension the tensioner

the power steering pump rotate the adjuster screw to drivebelt (2) and remove the from the front cover (3)

9.73 Remove the engine right-hand mounting bracket self-locking nuts (arrowed)

3Be12

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

9.74 Detach the lifting eye from the engine mounting/power

steering pump bracket by removing its two retaining bolts (arrowed)

74 Where fitted, detach the lifting eye from the engine mounting/power steering pump bracket by removing its two retaining bolts (see illustration). 75 Disconnect the hose from the coolant pump to facilitate removal of the drivebelt pulley from the fuel injection pump (see illustration). 76 Raise the front of the vehicle and securely support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). i 77 Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the turbocharger. 78 Obtain a container in which to catch oil

and position it beneath the turbocharger oil return line. Disconnect the oil line from the cylinder block (see illustration).

9.75 Disconnect the hose from the coolant pump (A) to facilitate removal of the drivebelt pulley bolts (B)

79 Detach the turbocharger to engine bracket. 80 Refer to Chapter 6 and remove the alternator drivebelt. 81 Remove the camshaft drivebelt lower cover. 82 Lower the vehicle and remove the camshaft drivebelt upper cover. 83 Turn the crankshaft in the direction of rotation until the injection pump sprocket timing mark is aligned with the pointer on the timing case (11 o’clock) (see illustration). 84 Remove the TDC setting hole plug from the crankcase and screw in the TDC setting pin, tool No. 21-104. 85 Carefully turn the crankshaft clockwise until the web contacts the setting pin. No. 1 piston is now at TDC.

9.78 Disconnect the turbocharger oil return line (1) and detach the turbocharger to engine bracket (2)

86 Release the belt tensioner and remove the camshaft drivebelt. 87 Unbolt and remove the camshaft belt tensioner and camshaft sprocket. 88 Remove the camshaft drivebelt idler sprocket and pull the drivebelt rear cover away from the cylinder head and camshaft end. 89 Detach the leak-off pipes and fuel lines from the injectors. Detach the fuel lines from the injection pump. Cap all openings to prevent the entry of dirt. 90 Remove the fuel injectors and heat shields from the cylinder head - see Chapter 4, Part B.

91 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the glow plugs. 92 Unscrew the three bolts and take off the camshaft cover and gasket.

9.83 Turn the crankshaft in the direction of rotation until the injection pump sprocket timing mark is aligned with the pointer on the timing case (11 o’clock) A Crankshaft direction of rotation B Injection pump sprocket timing mark

C TDC setting pin, tool No. 21-104.

'

S

ST PR errr, nevis :

ccsbabu ioe

9.93 Unscrew the four nuts (arrowed) and . remove the oil baffle

93 Unscrew the four nuts and remove the oil baffle (see illustration). 94 Unscrew and remove the cylinder head bolts in the reverse sequence to tightening. 95 Remove the cylinder head assembly, either with the assistance of another person or by using lifting gear attached to the head lifting eyes. 96 Remove the cylinder head gasket which should be renewed. Note that three possible thicknesses of cylinder head gasket are available, depending on piston protrusion, the

details of which are given in the Specifications of this Chapter. Refitting 97 The mating faces of the cylinder head and block must be perfectly clean before the head is refitted. Also check the mating surfaces for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If slight, they may be removed carefully with a

file, but if excessive, machining may be the only alternative to renewal. If warpage of the cylinder head gasket surface is suspected, use a straight edge to check it for distortion. 98 Check that the locating dowels are in position in the cylinder block. 99 Position the new gasket over the dowels and onto the cylinder block surface so that the “TOP/OBEN” mark is uppermost and the

identification teeth point to the front of the vehicle - (see illustration 9.22, Chapter 3,

Part A). 100 Ensure that the pistons are not positioned at TDC and that all cylinder head bolt holes are free from oil. 101 Refit the cylinder head, locating it on the dowels and taking care not to damage the camshaft drivebelt rear cover.

102 Fit the cylinder head bolts dry (ie. do not oil their threads). Carefully enter each new bolt into its hole and screw it in by hand only, until finger-tight. 103 Working progressively and in the sequence shown (see illustration 9.24, Chapter 3, Part A), use first a torque wrench, then an ordinary socket extension bar and an angle gauge, to tighten the cylinder head bolts in the stages given in the Specifications Section of this Chapter. Note: Once tightened correctly, following this procedure, the ‘cylinder head bolts do not require checktightening and must not be re-torqued.

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

104 Refit the fuel injectors with new heat shields, tightening them to the specified torque wrench setting. 105 Reattach the leak-off pipes and fuel lines to the injectors and the fuel lines to the injection pump. Remember to remove all blanking material and tighten all connections to the specified torque wrench settings. 106 Refer to Chapter 5 and refit the glow plugs. 107 Position the drivebelt rear cover against the cylinder head. Refit the camshaft drivebelt idler sprocket, tightening its retaining bolt to the specified torque wrench setting. ~ 108 Refit the camshaft belt tensioner and camshaft sprocket, tightening all fasteners to the specified torque wrench settings. : 109 Refer to Section 20, Chapter 2. Align the camshaft and fuel injection pump sprockets and fit and tension the camshaft and pump drivebelts. 110 Referring to the appropriate Sections in Chapter 2 and this Chapter, check and adjust the valve clearances. 111 Refit the oil baffle, tightening its retaining nuts to the specified torque wrench setting. 112 Refit the camshaft cover with a new gasket and tighten its retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 113 Refit the camshaft drivebelt upper cover.

114 Raise

the

front

of the

vehicle

and

securely support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 115 Refit the camshaft drivebelt lower cover. 116 Refer to Chapter 6 and refit and tension the alternator drivebelt. 117 Reattach the turbocharger to engine bracket, the turbocharger oil return line and the exhaust pipe to the turbocharger. 118 Lower the vehicle to the ground. 119 Refit the pulley to the fuel injection pump, tightening the bolts to the specified torque setting, and reconnect the hose to the coolant

pump. 120 Refit the lifting eye to the engine mounting/power steering pump _ bracket, tightening the two bolts to the specified torque setting. 121 Refit the engine right-hand mounting bracket, tightening the four new self-locking nuts to the specified torque setting. 122 Refit the power steering pump tensioner to the front cover. 123 Refer to Chapter 6 and refit the power steering pump, tensioning its drivebelt and refitting its belt cover. 124 Remove the engine support bar and the lifting eye fitted to the alternator retaining bolt. 125 Reattach the cable bracket to the alternator. 126 Reconnect the following hoses: a) Expansion tank to cylinder head coolant hose b) Turbocharger oil feed hose c) Turbocharger vacuum hose d) Vacuum hose to EGR valve e) Heater hose to cylinder head

3Be13

f) Crankcase ventilation system hoses to camshaft cover 127 Refit the hose and cable retaining clip to the cylinder head lifting eye and reconnect the fuel return line adjacent to it. 128 Refit the thermostat housing to the cylinder head, using a new gasket and tightening its retaining bolts to the specified torque setting. 129 Refit the oil dipstick tube bracket with cable bracket, tightening the retaining bolt to the specified torque setting 130 Reattach the oil return line and vacuum pipe to the vacuum pump. 131 Reconnect the following electrical connectors to the cylinder head: a) Glow plug feed b) Fuel heater multiplug c) Oil pressure switch plug 132 Reconnect the fuel line to the fuel tank and the fuel feed line to the injection pump. 133 Relocate the hoses and cables in their retaining clip on the cylinder head. 134 Reconnect the cooling system hoses to the following components: a) The coolant pump

b) The expansion tank c) The radiator 135 Reconnect the following electrical connectors: a) Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor multiplug b) Cooling fan thermoswitch (CFS) multiplug c) Temperature gauge sender unit multiplug

136 Lightly grease the mating surface of the mass airflow (MAF) sensor rubber retaining ring and refit the sensor, reconnecting its multiplug. 137 Refit the air inlet system resonator. 138 Refer to Chapter 4, Part B, and refit the

charge air cooler. 139 Raise the front of the vehicle and securely support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 140 Remove Ford tool 21 172 and refit the engine front roll restrictor, securing it to the subframe first and then fitting the centre bolt. Tighten the retaining bolts to the specified torque settings. 141 Refit the vibration damper splash shield to the wheel arch. 142 Refit the engine coolant drain plug and the engine undershield. 143 Lower the vehicle to the ground. 144 Add coolant, engine oil and power steering fluid, as needed. 145 Reconnect the battery earth lead. 146 Carry out a final check to ensure that all cables and wiring looms are correctly routed, clear of any moving parts, and firmly secured. 147 Once the engine has been restarted and warmed-up to normal operating temperature, check all disturbed joints for signs of oil or coolant leakage. 148 Finally, a road test must be carried out to enable the EEC module to collect data.

3B

3Be14

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

9.157 Detach the fuel filter mounting bracket from the cylinder head. Retaining bolt heads arrowed

Turbocharged engine - Escort Note illustrations: Because the engine fitted to the Escort is the same type as that fitted to the Mondeo, refer to the illustrations given for the Mondeo for the location of electrical connections and the like, unless otherwise stated.

Warning: Where a vehicle is fitted with an air conditioning system, do not disconnect the refrigerant hoses.

Removal 149 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 150 Refer to Chapter 2 and drain the engine coolant.

:

151 Referring to Chapter 4, Part B, remove the charge air cooler and air cleaner assembly. 152 Loosen the clip securing the rubber elbow to the turbocharger inlet and remove the elbow. 153 Detach the coolant hoses from the bottom of the expansion tank and the cylinder head.

154 On vehicles equipped with power steering, disconnect the fluid return hose from the reservoir, catching any spilt fluid in a clean container. Detach the reservoir and move it clear of the cylinder head before securing it in position. Blank off the hose to prevent any ingress of dirt into the system. 155 Detach the fuel heater from its mounting bracket by releasing the two clips and ease it clear of the cylinder head. 156 Disconnect the following electrical connectors: a) Glow plug leads b) Oil pressure switch 157 Detach the fuel filter mounting bracket from the cylinder head, noting the fitted position of any cable or pipe clamps beneath the retaining bolt heads (see illustration). 158 Remove the crankcase ventilation system hoses from the camshaft cover. 159 Unscrew the vacuum pipe union from the vacuum pump and detach the pipe. 160 Detach the oil return line from the vacuum pump. 161 Disconnect the following electrical connectors from the throttle cable upper bracket (see illustration): a) Partial load solenoid 6) Cold running solenoid switch c) FLVR connection 162 Release the throttle cable from the injection pump lever, remove the cable retaining clip from the mounting bracket, pull the cable out of the bracket and move it to one side. Refer to illustrations, Section 12, Chapter 4, Part B.

163 Remove the throttle cable upper bracket (1 bolt) and disconnect the fuel return line at the injection pump (see illustration). 164 Disconnect the following cooling system hoses from the thermostat housing:

9.161 Disconnect the following electrical connectors from the throttle cable upper bracket A Partial load solenoid B Cold running solenoid switch

C FLVR connection

a) From the expansion tank b) From the radiator : 165 Disconnect the following electrica connectors: a) Temperature gauge sender unit plug b) Cooling fan thermoswitch (CFS) multiplug c) Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor multiplug 166 Disconnect the cooling system hose from the coolant pump. 167 Remove the oil dipstick tube bracket from the thermostat housing. 168 Unbolt and remove the thermostat housing - see Section 12. 169 Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel shut-off valve (see illustration). — 170 Release the throttle cable lower bracket by removing its three retaining bolts. 171 Disconnect the fuel feed line at the injection pump - see illustration 9.163. 172 Detach the leak-off pipes and fuel lines from the injectors. Cap the openings to prevent the entry of dirt. 173 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the EGR valve. 174 Disconnect the heater hose from the cylinder head. 175 Detach the turbocharger to engine bracket and detach the turbocharger from the exhaust manifold - refer to Chapter 4, Part B. 176 Raise the front of the vehicle and securely support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 177 Where fitted, remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover from beneath the vehicle. 178 Refer to Chapter 6 and slacken and remove the alternator drivebelt. 179 On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, release the clamp bolt and remove the compressor drivebelt. Disconnect the multiplug from the magnetic clutch of the

9.163 Connections at the injection pump A Throttle cable end fitting B Throttle cable retaining clip C Throttle cable bracket bolt

D Fuel return pipe quick release connector

E Coolant expansion tank hose F Fuel feed pipe

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

9.169 Disconnect the fuel shut-off valve (A)

and release the throttle cable lower bracket retaining bolts (B)

compressor, remove the compressor retaining bolts and tie the compressor clear of the engine with a length of wire - see Chapter 5. 180 Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 81 to 88 inclusive of this Section. 181 Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 90 to 96 inclusive of this Section.

Refitting 182 Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 97

to 116 inclusive of this Section.

183 On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, refer to Chapter 6 and refit the compressor. Reconnect the compressor electrical multiplug and fit and tension its drivebelt. 184 Refer to Chapter 6 and fit and tension the

alternator drivebelt. 185 Where fitted, refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover. 186 Lower the vehicle to the ground. 187 Refit the turbocharger to the exhaust manifold, using new nuts, and refit the turbocharger bracket to the cylinder block. 188 Reconnect the heater hose to the cylinder head. 189 Reconnect the vacuum hose to the EGR valve.

‘

190 Reattach the throttle cable lower bracket

with the three retaining bolts. 191 Reconnect the electrical connector to the fuel shut-off valve. 192 Refit the thermostat housing to the cylinder head. 193 Refit the oil dipstick tube bracket to the thermostat housing. 194 Reconnect the cooling system hose to the coolant pump. 195 Reconnect the following electrical connectors to the thermostat housing: a) Temperature gauge sender unit plug b) Cooling fan thermoswitch (CFS) multiplug c) Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor multiplug ; 196 Reconnect the cooling system hoses from the expansion tank and radiator to the thermostat housing. 197 Refit the throttle cable upper bracket and reconnect the fuel return line to the injection

pump.

198 Reattach the throttle cable to its mounting bracket with the retaining clip and refit the cable end to the injection pump lever. 199 Reconnect the following electrical connectors to the throttle cable upper bracket: a) Partial load solenoid b) Cold running solenoid switch c) FLVR connection 200 Reconnect the oil return line and vacuum pipe union to the vacuum pump. 201 Reconnect the crankcase ventilation system hoses to the camshaft cover. 202 Refit the fuel filter mounting bracket to the cylinder head, locating any cable or pipe clamps beneath the retaining bolt heads as noted during removal. 203 Reconnect the following electrical connectors: . a) Glow plug leads b) Oil pressure switch 204 Reattach the fuel heater to its mounting bracket. 205 On vehicles equipped with power steering, refit the fluid reservoir to its mounting and reconnect the fluid return hose to the reservoir. 206 Reconnect the coolant hoses to the cylinder head and bottom of the expansion tank. rubber elbow to. the 207 Refit the turbocharger inlet. 208 Referring to Chapter 4, Part B, refit the air cleaner assembly and charge air cooler. 209 Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 144 to 148 inclusive of this Section.

;

10 Cylinder head - dismantling,

EN

overhaul and reassembly

~

x

Note: /n August 1992, the cylinder head bolt threads were modified from 7/16 UNC (head bolts are hex-headed) to M12 (head bolts are Torx-headed). At the same time, some minor modifications were made to both the cylinder block and head. If a later (M12) cylinder head is to be fitted to an earlier (7/16 UNC) cylinder block, two adapter dowels, which fit over the head locating dowels, will be required. Refer to your Ford dealer for further information The operations are essentially as described in Chapter 3, Part A, for the 1.6 litre engine but it is necessary to use an exhaust manifold gasket when reassembling, even if one was not fitted originally (new engine). Also make sure that the plastic expansion sleeve is located on the upper right-hand end manifold stud. Note also that on later models, an oil baffle is fitted above the camshaft to improve lubrication. The vacuum pump must be fitted with a new O-ring seal.

3Be15

11 Cylinder head and pistons decarbonisation

Mil

Refer to Section 11, Chapter 3, Part A.

12 Coolant pump and thermostat - removal.and refitting

HEY

Note: The coolant pump is driven from the back of the camshaft drivebelt. Ford recommend that the drivebelt is renewed whenever the coolant pump is renewed.

Coolant pump Removal 1 Start by carrying out the (applicable) preliminary dismantling procedures described in paragraphs 1 to 4 of Section 20, Chapter 2. 2 Drain the cooling system, disconnect the expansion tank hoses and the coolant hose from the coolant pump. Note the white paint mark on the hose which should be aligned with the guide mark on the pump casting on refitting. 3 Refer to Chapter 2 and remove the camshaft drivebelt. 4 Using a Torx bit, unbolt and remove the idler pulley. 5 Unscrew the two bolts next to the injection pump sprocket which secure the drivebelt backing plate, then withdraw the backing plate.

6 Carefully slacken the tensioner pulley adjusting bolt and remove the tensioner spring, then swing the pulley upwards and retighten the bolt. 7 Unbolt and remove the tensioner spring bracket, noting that the two bolts also secure the coolant pump. 8 Unscrew the drivebelt cover spacer stud, then unscrew the two remaining pump securing bolts and withdraw the coolant

pump. 9 Remove the pump gasket and carefully clean the cylinder block mating surface, also that of the’ pump, if it is to be refitted (see illustration).

Pne \ 12.9 Clean mating surfaces thoroughly before refitting coolant pump

3B

3Be16

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine 242) to its threads, refit the drivebelt cover spacer stud, tightening it to its specified

c) Access to the crankshaft front oil seal can only be obtained after removing the vibration damper and the two toothed belts, and pulling the belt sprocket off the front of the crankshaft. A puller may be required for this.

torque wrench setting.

12.12 Align white paint mark on hose with pump casting raised rib as shown 10 Note cannot be complete. hoses and

that a worn or damaged pump reconditioned, it must be renewed Check the condition of the coolant clips, renewing them if there is any

doubt about their condition. 11 Obtain a new camshaft drivebelt. This must be renewed as a matter of course whenever the coolant pump is renewed. Considering the amount of work required to renew the drivebelts, and the fact that they

must be renewed anyway if liquids such coolant, oil or diesel fuel are allowed contaminate them, owners are advised consider renewing both drivebelts on precautionary basis whenever the pump disturbed.

as to to a is

Refitting 12 On reassembly, fit the gasket to the pump mating surface and offer up the pump to the cylinder block. Engage the coolant hose on to the pump union, ensuring that the hose’s white paint mark aligns with the raised rib on the pump casting (see illustration). 13 Ensuring that the tensioner spring bracket is correctly located, refit the pump’s four retaining bolts and tighten them to their specified torque wrench setting, then tighten securely the coolant hose.clip. 14 Applying one or two drops of a threadlocking compound (Ford recommend Loctite

15 Refit the drivebelt backing plate, tightening only loosely its two bolts at this stage. 16 Slacken the tensioner pulley adjusting bolt, refit the tensioner spring, then swing the pulley until the spring is fully compressed and retighten the bolt. 17 Check that all timing pegs are fully engaged in the crankshaft and in the camshaft and fuel injection pump sprockets, slacken the camshaft sprocket bolts and fit the (new) camshaft drivebelt so that the sprocket bolts are in the middle of their slots. 18 Refit the idler pulley, tightening its Torx bolt to the specified torque wrench setting, then tighten securely the backing plate bolts. 19 The remainder of the procedure is as described in Section 20 of Chapter 2, paragraph 16 onwards. 20 When all disturbed components have been correctly refitted and adjusted (where applicable), refill the cooling system, start the engine and run it to normal operating temperature, then switch off and allow it to cool down. Inspect the engine for coolant leaks and rectify if required, then top-up the system.

14 Sump - removal and re

Steel type 1 The operations are similar to those described in Section 14 of Chapter 3, Part A, but when fitting the sump pan, make sure that the lug on the gasket (flywheel side) engages in the recess in the crankshaft oil seal retainer (see illustrations).

Aluminium type Removal 2 Note that when an aluminium sump pan is used, it bolts direct to the clutch housing at the transmission end and there is no bottom cover plate fitted. In order to remove the aluminium type sump pan, it is necessary to remove the transmission, clutch and flywheel

Thermostat

to gain access to the rear seal housing lower securing bolts, which screw directly into the sump. ‘

21 Refer to the illustrations contained in Section 27 of this Chapter and to Section 12, Chapter 3, Part A, noting the above information on pump removal and refitting.

13 Oil seals - renewal

Refitting 3 Ensure all mating surfaces are clean. 4 Apply Ford approved sealant to the cylinder block/sump mating surfaces as shown (see illustration). 5 Fit the sump and a new gasket, tightening the retaining bolts finger-tight only. 6 Refit and tighten the carrier retaining bolts to the specified torque loading. 7 Fully tighten the sump retaining bolts, in a diagonal sequence to the specified torque loading. Note that this must be done within 20

EN

xx

Refer to Section 13, Chapter 3, Part A, noting the following points: a) Time, and tension, the drivebelts as described in this Chapter. b) Apply thread-locking fluid to the drivebelt cover spacer stud on the coolant pump.

pas

14.1a Sump gasket in position

minutes of applying the sealant.

a

i

14.1b Sump gasket lug engaged in recess (arrowed)

Engine overhaui - 1.8 litre engine

14.4 Apply Ford approved sealant to the cylinder block/sump mating surfaces at the points arrowed

3Be17

15.4 Disconnect the turbocharger oil feed line (1) the line to engine casing securing bolt (2) and the oil pump retaining bolts (3)

damage. Using a feeler blade, measure the

- 15 Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting

SS Ss

inner to outer rotor clearance. If the clearance exceeds that specified then the pump must

S

be renewed as pump components are not available individually. It is wise to renew the pump on a precautionary basis at time of

Removal

major overhaul, especially if there is evidence

1 Drain the engine oil. of oil starvation elsewhere. 2 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 8 Clean the pick-up pipe and strainer in 3 Unscrew and discard the oil filter cartridge. | solvent and blow them dry. If fitted, inspect 4 On turbocharged engines, disconnect the the oil cooler for damage and renew if oil feed line to the turbocharger and remove necessary. the line to engine casing securing bolt (see Refitting illustration).

5 Where fitted, the cylindrical oil cooler can

9A

worn

oil pump

should

be renewed

also be removed by referring to Chapter 6.

complete.

6 Unscrew the four retaining bolts and withdraw the oil pump from the engine

10 Before refitting, pour engine oil into the pump to prime it, and use a new flange gasket

crankcase.

(see illustrations).

a 11 Observe all specified torque settings when tightening disturbed fasteners (see Inspection 7 Clean all parts and inspect them for wear or _ illustration).

15.10b ... fit the oil pump...

15.11... and tighten the oil pump bolts

3B

3Be18

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

18 Engine/transmission =

ah

mountings - inspection, =

removal and refitting

‘

SS

= & oA PEN

Mondeo Inspection

18.6a Engine/transmission right-hand mounting - standard type 1 2 3 4

Bracket

Mounting Brackets bolted to cylinder block/crankcase Vehicle body

16 Pistons and connecting rods 3S - removal and refitting

S

x

Refer to Section 18, Chapter 3, Part A, and

the Specifications of this Chapter.

18.6b Engine/transmission right-hand mounting - hydraulic type 1 2 3 4

Bracket

Hydraulic mounting Brackets bolted to cylinder block/crankcase Vehicle body

17 Flywheel - removal and refitting

:& ~w

Refer to Section 19, Chapter 3, Part A, and

the Specifications of this Chapter.

1 During inspection, the engine/transmission must be raised slightly, to remove its weight from the mountings. 2 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it securely on axle stands. Position a jack under the sump, with a large block of wood between the jack head and the sump, then carefully raise the engine/transmission just enough to take the weight off the mountings. 3 Check the mountings to see if the rubber is cracked, hardened or separated from the metal components. Sometimes the rubber will split right down the centre. 4 Check for relative movement between each mounting’s brackets and the engine/transmission or body (use a large screwdriver or lever to attempt to move the mountings). If movement is noted, lower the engine and check-tighten the mounting fasteners. Removal 5 Before removing any mounting, support the engine/transmission with a hoist or a suitably padded jack. Right-hand mounting

6 Unscrew the retaining nuts and withdraw the mounting bracket. Note that these nuts are self-locking and must therefore be renewed whenever they are disturbed. Unbolt the mounting from the body (see illustrations). Left-hand mounting 7 Unscrew the three nuts to release the mounting from the transmission, then unbolt it from the body (see illustration). Note that the nuts are self-locking, and must therefore be° renewed whenever they are disturbed. Rear mounting 8 Remove the rear mounting by first removing

its centre bolt and then the three bolts which secure it to the subframe (see illustration). 9 If necessary, remove the two bolts and one

nut and detach the bracket of the mounting from the gearbox, along with the gearchange stay bracket (see illustration). Front mounting , 10 Remove the bolts and nuts securing the mounting to the subframe, unscrew the centre bolt and withdraw the mounting (see illustration. The mounting’s bracket can be unbolted from the transmission if required. 18.7 Engine/transmission left-hand mounting 1 Mounting bracket 2 Mounting 3 Transmission

4 Studs 5 Fastening plate where fitted

18.8 Engine/transmission rear mounting © 1 Transmission 2 Mounting bracket 3 Front suspension subframe

4 Mounting 5 Mounting centre bolt

Refitting 11 On reassembly, the weight of the engine/transmission must not be taken by the mountings until all are correctly fitted. Right-hand mounting 12 Renew the self-locking nuts and tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench settings

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

3Be19

18.10 Engine/transmission front mounting om

ie

ae

18.9 The gearchange stay bracket (arrowed)

specified. When tightening the nuts, tighten first the four bracket-to-engine nuts, then release the hoist or jack to allow the

engine/transmission’s weight to rest on the mounting. Do not allow the mounting to twist as the last two of the nuts are tightened. Left-hand mounting 13 On refitting, renew the self-locking nuts and do not allow the mounting to twist as the nuts are tightened. Tighten all fasteners to the specified torque wrench settings. Rear mounting 14 On refitting, ensure that the mounting-to-

transmission bolts are securely tightened, then refit the mounting. Tighten first the mounting-to-subframe bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. Finally tighten the mounting’s centre bolt, again to the specified torque wrench setting. Front mounting 15 On refitting, ensure that the mounting-totransmission bolts are securely tightened, then refit the mounting. Tighten first the mounting-to-subframe bolts and nuts to the specified torque wrench setting. Finally tighten the mounting’s centre bolt, again to the specified torque wrench setting. All mountings

1 Transmission

4 Front suspension

2 Mounting bracket 3 Mounting

5 Mounting centre bolt

excessive tension, causing twisting or deformation of the rubbers. Slacken and retighten the fastenings if necessary. 17 For Fiestas and_ early model Escort/Orions, refer to Section 20, Chapter 3, Part A, and Specifications. 18 For late model Escort/Orions, refer to Section 20 of this Chapter and Specifications.

19 Engine/transmission methods of removal

16 When the hoist or jack is lowered, check again

manoeuvrable when beneath the vehicle.

are

not

under

py

20.11a Earth strap and wiring harness connection to gearbox

20 Engine/transmission removal

Fiesta, Escort and Orion

1 The engine is removed together with the transmission in a downward direction and withdrawn from underneath the vehicle. 2 Ensure that the vehicle can be raised sufficiently to allow the engine/transmission to be withdrawn from underneath. Axle stands will be required to ensure that the vehicle is suitably supported when raised. Ensure that these stands are correctly positioned according to model type. 3 The ideal piece of equipment on which to lower the engine/transmission is a low and strongly made trolley which is capable of taking the weight whilst being easily

that the mountings

subframe

20.11b Reversing light switch and lead connector

Vb

Non turbocharged engine 1 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 2 Although not essential, removal of the bonnet will provide additional access during subsequent operations. If removing the bonnet, the insulating sheet must be removed from the underside of the bonnet and the washer fluid hose detached. 3 Remove the air cleaner casing. Although not strictly necessary, the removal of the plastic upper section of the inlet manifold will provide additional clearance and prevent the risk of its damage. 4 Drain the engine oil. 5 Where possible, drain the oil from the transmission. In some instances a drain plug or alternative may not exist, in which case it will not be possible to drain the oil from the transmission until later when the driveshafts are removed. 6 Drain the cooling system then detach and remove the coolant top and bottom hoses from the engine and radiator. 7 Detach the coolant expansion tank hoses at the cylinder head and thermostat housing. 8 Disconnect the heater feed and return hoses from the distribution pipe and the cylinder head. Although not strictly necessary, removal of the radiator, fan and shroud will provide additional clearance during engine removal and prevent the possibility of it being damaged. 9 Disconnect the throttle cable from the fuel pump, referring to Chapter 4, Part B. 10 Where applicable, disconnect the idle-up speed operating cable at its connection to the injection pump - see Chapter 4, Part B. 11 Disconnect the following electrical leads (see illustrations): a) Temperature gauge sender

3B

3Be20

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

aN

b) c) d) e) f)

Oil pressure switch Cooling fan thermoswitch Glow plug feed Injection pump fuel shut-off solenoid Oil level sensor

g) Earth strap to transmission

h) Reversing light lead from switch on transmission Note: When disconnecting the earth strap from the top face of the flywheel housing, also disconnect the adjacent wiring harness. 12 Disconnect the fuel inlet hose from the fuel filter and the return pipe from the injection pump. Where applicable, when disconnecting the fuel pipe from the pump, detach it at the in-line hose connector to minimise the possibility of dirt entering the fuel system. The connecting tube is secured by compression clips. Plug or cap the hoses and unions to keep fuel in and dirt out. 13 Disconnect the servo vacuum hose from the vacuum pump and detach the vacuum hose. 14 Press the clutch lever to the rear and, with the tension taken from the cable, release it

from the lever. Withdraw the clutch cable rearwards through its locating bracket on the transmission and position it out of the way. 15 Undo the retaining nut and disconnect the speedometer cable from the top face of the transmission and position it out of the way. 16 Undo the two retaining bolts securing the transmission bracket to the mounting on the front crossmember (see illustration). 17

ce

20.28 Right-hand engine mounting nuts (A) and brace (B) (Escort/Orion)

20.16 Remove the two transmission mounting bolts (arrowed)

20 Undo the retaining nuts and detach the exhaust downpipe from the manifold and the exhaust system. 21 Place the gear lever in 4th gear, then disconnect the selector rod from the transmission by loosening the clamp and sliding it along the rod. 22 Unscrew the retaining bolt and disconnect the stabiliser rod from the transmission. As it is detached collect the flat washer located between the rod and transmission. Tie the shift rod and the stabiliser rod up out of the way. 23 Disconnect the track control (Suspension) arm balljoint from the spindle carrier each side. 24 Disconnect the track (tie) rod balljoint from the steering arm on the left-hand side by unscrewing the retaining nut and using a balljoint separator to release the tapered joint. 25 Remove both driveshafts by levering between the CV joint and the differential housing. Note that in some _ instances (depending on, model type), it may not be possible to drain the transmission oil and it is therefore necessary to prepare for some oil loss as the driveshafts are withdrawn from the transmission. Position a suitable container under the transmission and withdraw the driveshafts. When the right hand shaft is

Raise and support the front of the vehicle

on axle stands at a height allowing for the engine/transmission to be subsequently withdrawn from underneath the front of the

removed, plug its aperture in transmission to prevent further oil loss when the transmission

is removed.

When

the left-hand

shaft is

removed, insert a wooden or plastic plug in its aperture to prevent the differential side gears from being dislodged and further oil leakage. 26 With the driveshafts withdrawn, tie the shafts up to the suspension member to support them and prevent the CV joints from being strained. The inner joint must not be angled more than 20°, the outer joint more

than 45°. : 27 Attach lifting tackle to thg, engine, using the lifting eyes provided. Take the weight of the engine and transmission. 28 Disconnect the right-hand engine mounting according to type as follows:

Escort/Orion Unscrew and remove the nuts from the top of the right-hand mounting. Undo the two nuts (at the top end) and the single bolt (at the bottom end) and detach the engine mounting brace on the right-hand side (see illustration). Fiesta

Working through the access hole in the righthand wheel arch, undo the single retaining bolt and nut and disconnect the right- hand

mounting from the body. 29 Undo the two retaining bolts and disconnect the forward transmission mounting from the underbody on the left-hand side (see illustration). 30 The forward transmission mounting on later models has an additional anti-vibration block attached between the mounting and the

transmission. If this block is to be removed, — note that the orientation arrow (viewed from

vehicle. 18 Unbolt and withdraw all cover(s) and/or shield(s) protecting the crankshaft pulley/vibration damper. 19 Note their connections and detach the wiring from the alternator and starter motor.

At

Release the cable-ties and move the wiring harness out of the way.

20.29 Transmission mounting on the front left-hand side (Escort/Orion)

i fo

aN

the top) faces towards the front to ensure correct refitting (see illustrations). 31 The engine/ transmission should now be ready for removal. Check that all attachments

and fittings are clear and not in a position where they may impede removal and get damaged in the process.

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

-

sat

a

ah

20.30a Underside view of the anti-vibrati on block fitted to the front left mounting

32 Arrange for an assistant to help guide the power unit down through the engine compartment

to

ensure

that

associate

components and fittings are not damaged as it is withdrawn. If possible, lower the combined unit onto an engine trolley so that it can be more easily withdrawn from under the front of the vehicle. 33 Carefully lower the engine/transmission and withdraw it from under the vehicle. 34 If the vehicle is to be moved whilst the engine is out, temporarily reconnect the front suspension components and ensure that the driveshafts are suitably supported so that they can rotate without being damaged.

Turbocharged engine Mondeo Note illustrations: For the following text relating to removal of components associated with the cylinder head, refer to the illustrations given in Section 9 of this Chapter. Warning: Where a vehicle is fitted with an air conditioning system, do not disconnect the refrigerant hoses. 35 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 36 Although not essential, removal of the bonnet will provide additional access during subsequent operations. 37 Raise the front of the vehicle, securely support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”) and remove the engine

3Be21

20.30b Arrow on top face of anti-vibration block indicates direction of fitting

42 Loosen the hose retaining clip and remove the air inlet system resonator by pulling it from its two retainers - see illustration, Section 17, Chapter 2. 43 Disconnect the multiplug from the mass airflow (MAF) sensor. Loosen the sensor retaining clips and remove the sensor. This operation may prove difficult due to

resistance from the rubber retaining ring (see illustrations Chapters 2 and 4B). 44 Refer to Chapter 2 and remove the air cleaner element. 45 Loosen the retaining clip and disconnect the air inlet hose from the turbocharger. Blank off the turbocharger. inlet to prevent the ingress of dirt. 46 Refer to Chapter 4, Part B, and remove the charge air cooler.

47 Release the hoses and cables from their retaining clip on the cylinder head and move them to one side. 48 Remove the hose/cable retaining clip from the engine lifting eye. 49 Disconnect the fuel return line from the fuel injection pump. 50 Disconnect the cooling system hoses from the following components: a) The expansion tank b) The inlet manifold c) The thermostat housing

51 Move to the front of the fuel heater (Chapter 4, Part B) and separate the quickrelease coupling of the fuel feed pipe. 52 Disconnect the heater hoses to the oil cooler and cylinder head by releasing their retaining clips at the points shown. 53 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the EGR valve. 54 Release the throttle cable from the injection pump, remove the cable retaining clip from the mounting bracket, pull the cable out of the bracket and move it to one side refer to illustrations, Section 12, Chapter 4, Part B. 55 Unscrew the vacuum pipe union from the vacuum pump and detach the pipe. electrical 56 Disconnect the following connectors:

a) b) c) d) e) f) g) h)

!) J)

Glow plug feed EDC module multiplug (see illustration) Alternator multiplug and cable Fuel injection pump multiplugs (3) Self test and service connectors (at bulkhead) (see illustration) Fuel shut-off valve (see illustration) Temperature gauge sender unit plug Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor multiplug Cooling fan thermoswitch (CFS) multiplug Oil pressure switch plug

undershield. 38 Disconnect the multiplug from the crankshaft position sensor, see Chapter 5. 39 Disconnect the speedometer drive cable at the engine end (close to the crankshaft position sensor). 40 Drain the cooling system and disconnect the lower cooling system hose from the radiator and connector pipe. If the engine is to

be dismantled, drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter. 41 Lower the front of the vehicle and slacken the nuts securing both front roadwheels.

multiplug (arrowed)

20.56b Disconnect the self test and service connectors (arrowed)

3B

3Be22

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

20.56c Disconnect the fuel shut-off valve (A) and the tem gauge sender unit (B)

C is the throttle cable bracket retaining bolt k) Fuel heater multiplug

|) Vehicle speed sensor multiplug (and release loom from bracket) (see illustration) m) Starter motor (2 nuts) (Chapter 5) n) Main engine wiring loom multiplugs (2) (see illustration) 0) CVT sensor multiplug p) Earth strap to transmission q) Lighting wire loom multiplug (air conditioned models only) (see illustration) 57 Cut the main engine wiring loom cableties and remove the complete loom from the vehicle.

58 Remove the throttle cable bracket retaining bolt and detach the bracket. 59 Unhook the clutch cable from the clutch release lever, disconnect the cable from its retaining bracket and move it to one side (see illustrations). 60 Remove the two bolts retaining the cover of the power steering pump drivebelt.

-

20.56e Disconnect the main engine wiring loom multiplugs (1) and the CVT sensor multiplug (2) Remove the cover and loosen the pump mounting bolt. 61 Loosen the power steering pump clamp bolt. Rotate the adjuster screw to de-tension the drivebelt and remove the tensioner from the front cover. 62 Remove the pump drivebelt and the pump

me

20.56f Disconnect the lighting wire loom multiplug (air conditioned models only) mounting bolt and lift the pump clear of the engine.

63 Fit a lifting eye to the alternator retaining bolt. Fit the engine support bar and connect it to the lifting eye, ensuring that the bar is placed under load by tightening down its lifting spindle.

Pa

20.59a Unhook the clutch cable from the clutch releas e lever...

20.59b .. . and disconnect the cable from its retaining bracket

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

20.66 Use split pins to secure radiator in its raised position...

20.65 From beneath the vehicle, disconnect the following electrical connectors (air conditioned models only) 1 Left and right-hand fan motor multiplugs 2 Ballast resistor multiplug 3 Diode 64 Raise the front of the vehicle and securely support it on axle stands (see: “Jacking and vehicle support”).

65 From beneath the vehicle, disconnect the following electrical connectors (see illustration): a) Left and right-hand fan motor multiplugs (air conditioned models only) b) Ballast resistor multiplug (air conditioned models only) c) Diode (unclip - air conditioned models only) 66 On vehicles without air conditioning, secure the radiator at the top as shown (see illustration).

3Be23

67 Detach the two lower radiator brackets (see illustration). 68 On vehicles equipped with — air conditioning, detach the conditioning dehydrator from the subframe and secure it clear of the engine with a length of wire (see illustration). 69 On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, release each condenser by removing the condenser to radiator bolt and the radiator bracket to subframe bolt. Secure each condenser clear of the engine with a length of wire (see illustration). 70 Remove the radiator and fan assembly from beneath the vehicle. 71 Unscrew the nuts retaining the front exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold flange, remove the retaining pins and remove the stud/spring assembly. Remove the front exhaust pipe rear securing nuts and lower the pipe from the vehicle. 72 Disconnect the selector rod from the selector shaft by loosening the clamp bolt and unscrewing the selector rod bolt (see illustrations).

3B

20.67 . .. while unbolting the bottom mountin gs (arrowed). Note that the mountings are handed and do not lose the mounting rubbers

20.68 Remove the conditioning dehydrator to subframe bolts (arrowed)

20.69 Remove the condenser to radiator bolt (1) and the radiator bracket to subframe bolt (2)

20.72a Re move the selector rod bolt...

3Be24

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

yi

20.72b . .. and disconnect the selector rod from the selector shaft (clamp bolt arrowed)

20.74 Remove the gearchange linkage heat shield

20.73 Remove the gearchange stabiliser to engine mounting retaining bolt

20.75a Remove the gearchange lever guide mounting bolts (arrowed)...

20.75b... and swivel the gearchange linkage rearwards, securing it with a length of wire

73 Detach the gearchange stabiliser from the engine mounting by removing its retaining bolt (see illustration). 74 Remove the gearchange linkage heat shield (see illustration). 75 Remove the gearchange lever guide mounting retaining bolts and swivel the gearchange linkage rearwards, securing it

with a length of wire (see illustrations). 76 Remove both front wheels and detach each stabiliser link rod from its respective suspension strut (see illustration). 77 Disconnect each track rod end balljoint from its respective steering arm by unscrewing the retaining nut and using a balljoint separator to release the tapered joint. 78 Release each lower suspension arm balljoint from its respective spindle carrier by removing the retaining bolt and withdraw each brake hose from its bracket. Remove each ABS wiring loom bracket from the suspension

20.76 Detach each stabiliser link rod from the suspension strut (1) disconnect each track rod end balljoint by using a balljoint separator (2) and release each lower suspension arm balljoint

RG 5

from the spindle carrier (3)

,

strut.

79 Remove the engine rear roll restrictor by first removing its centre bolt and then the remaining three securing bolts - see Section 18. 80 Detach the steering gear assembly from

the subframe by removing its two securing bolts. If the bolts are not accessible from

H28952

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

20.80a U-shaped Ford service tool for removing the steering gear securing bolts

subframe securing bolts from underneath the vehicle ;

above, a Ford service tool will be required to

88 On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, release the clamp bolt and remove the compressor drivebelt. Disconnect the multiplug from the magnetic clutch of the

reach them from underneath the vehicle (see illustrations). 81 Remove the two bolts and one nut and detach the bracket of the engine rear roll restrictor from the gearbox. 82 Remove the centre bolt of the engine front roll restrictor.

83 Remove the four subframe securing bolts and lower the subframe away: from the vehicle. 84 Position a suitable container under the gearbox and drain the gearbox of oil. 85 Remove the two bolts securing the righthand driveshaft centre bearing. Pull the shaft clear of the gearbox and tie it up to the suspension member to support it and to prevent the tripode joint from being strained. The joint must not be angled more than 18°

(see illustrations).

86 Using Ford tool.16-057 as shown (see illustration) drive the left-hand driveshaft from its seat. Pull the shaft clear of the gearbox and tie it up to the suspension member to support it and to prevent the tripode joint from being strained. The joint ' must not be angled more than 18°. 87 When each shaft is removed, plug the gearbox aperture to prevent the ingress of

dirt.

compressor, remove the three compressor retaining bolts and tie the compressor clear of the engine with a length of wire - see Chapter 6. 89 The engine/transmission should now be hanging on the right and left-hand mountings only, with all components which connect it to the rest of the vehicle disconnected or removed and secured well clear of the unit. Make afinal check that this is the case. 90 Position a low bench trolley beneath the engine/transmission and lower the vehicle until the unit rests securely on the trolley. 91 Release the engine support bar. 92 Unscrew the nuts securing the engine righthand mounting bracket, then the nuts securing the left-hand bracket - see Section 18. 93 Raise the vehicle and ensure that it is securely supported, high enough to permit the withdrawal of the engine/transmission and bench trolley from underneath. 94 If the vehicle is to be moved whilst the engine is out, temporarily reconnect the front suspension components and ensure that the driveshafts are suitably supported so that they can rotate without being damaged.

3Be25

20.85a Removing the heat shield from the right-hand driveshaft centre bearing Escort Note illustrations: For the following text relating to removal of components associated with the cylinder head, refer to the illustrations given in Section 9 of this Chapter Note illustrations: Because the engine/ transmission fitted to the Escort is the same type as that fitted to the Mondeo, refer to the illustrations given for the Mondeo for the disconnection of electrical connections, the clutch cable, transmission components ana

the like, unless otherwise shown. Warning: Where a vehicle is fitted with an air conditioning system, do not disconnect the refrigerant hoses. 95 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 96 Refer to Chapter 2 and drain the engine oil. 97 Where possible, drain the oil from the transmission. In some instances a drain plug or alternative may not exist, in which case it will not be possible to drain the oil from the transmission until later when the driveshafts are removed. 98 Refer to Chapter 2 and drain the cooling system. 99 Although not essential, removal of the bonnet will provide additional access during subsequent operations.

4

20.85b Pulling the right-hand driveshaft clear of the gearbox

20.86 Using Ford tool 16-057 to drive the left-hand driveshaft from its seat

3B

3Be26

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

20.125 Remove the air conditioning dehydrator with its mounting bracket

A Radiator support bracket bolts

B Dehyarator securing bolts C Dehydrator

100 Refer to Chapter 4, Part B, and remove the air cleaner casing. 101 Loosen the clip securing the rubber elbow to the turbocharger inlet and remove the elbow. 102 Refer to Chapter 4, Part B, and remove

the charge air cooler. 103 Detach the coolant hoses from the bottom of the expansion tank and the cylinder head. 104 On vehicles equipped with power steering, disconnect the fluid return hose from the reservoir, catching any spilt fluid in a clean container. Detach the reservoir and move it well clear of the engine before securing it in position. Blank off the hose to prevent any ingress of dirt into the system. 105 Disconnect the following electrical connectors:

a) Fuel lever position sensor (FLVR) multiplug b) Cold running solenoid switch multiplug c) Partial load solenoid valve multiplug d) Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor multiplug e) Temperature gauge sender unit multiplug

f) Glow plug feed 106 Release the throttle cable from the injection pump, remove the cable retaining clip from the mounting bracket, pull the cable out of the bracket and move it to one side refer to illustrations, Section 12, Chapter 4,

Part B. 107 Unscrew the vacuum pipe union from the vacuum pump and detach the pipe.

108 Disconnect

the

following

electrical

connectors:

a) Reversing light switch b) Air conditioning coolant temperature sensor (where fitted) c) Oil pressure switch d) Cooling fan motor e) Fuel heater multiplug f) Fuel shut-off valve

20.126 Remove the air conditioning condenser

109 Disconnect the following cooling system hoses from the thermostat housing: a) From the expansion tank upper outlet b) From the radiator upper connection 110 Move to the front of the fuel heater (Chapter 4, Part B) and separate the quickrelease coupling of the fuel feed pipe. 111 Disconnect the fuel return line from the fuel injection pump. 112 Disconnect the heater hose from the cylinder head. 113 Disconnect the coolant hose from the oil cooler. 114 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the EGR valve. 115 Press the clutch lever to the rear and, with the tension taken from the cable, release it from the lever. Withdraw the clutch cable rearwards through its locating bracket on the transmission and position it out of the way. 116 Remove the three securing nuts and detach the front exhaust pipe from the turbocharger. 117 Raise the front of the vehicle and securely support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove both front wheels. 118 Detach the front exhaust pipe from the rear pipe and remove it from the vehicle. 119 Where fitted, remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover from beneath the vehicle. 120 Refer to Chapter 6 and slacken and remove the alternator drivebelt. 121 On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, release the clamp bolt and remove the compressor drivebelt. Disconnect the multiplug from the magnetic clutch of the compressor, remove the compressor retaining bolts and tie the compressor clear of the engine with a length of wire - see Chapter 6. 122 Refer to Chapter 6 and remove the power steering pump, where fitted. 123 Disconnect the following electrical connectors:

B Condenser securing nuts

A Condenser

\

a) Alternator multiplug and cable b) Starter motor c) Alternator/starter motor wiring loom multiplugs (3 at radiator) d) Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor multiplug e) Earth strap to transmission 124 Detach the radiator lower hose from the coolant distributor pipe on the engine. 125 On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, remove the conditioning dehydrator with its mounting bracket and secure it clear of the engine with a length of

wire (see illustration). — 126 On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, bend back the radiator lower shroud and remove the condenser retaining nuts. Secure the condenser clear of the

engine with a length of wire (see illustration). 127 Check that all radiator hoses and electrical wires are disconnected so as to allow radiator removal. 128 Detach the radiator support bracket from the side members and remove it, complete

with the radiator and shroud, from beneath the vehicle. 129 Disconnect the speedometer drive cable from the gearbox by releasing its retaining nut and pulling it from position. Position the cable

out of the way.

|

130 Place the gear lever in neutral, then disconnect the selector rod from the gearbox by loosening the clamp and sliding it along the rod. 131 Unscrew the retaining bolt and disconnect the stabiliser rod from the gearbox. As it is detached collect the flat washer located between the rod and gearbox. Tie the shift rod and the stabiliser rod up out of the way. 132 Disconnect the track (tie) rod balljoint from the steering arm on the left and righthand sides by unscrewing the retaining nut and using a balljoint separator to release the tapered joint.

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

3Be27

af

20.138 Remove the nut and washer retaining the gearbox bracket to the engine rear right-hand mounting

A Retaining nut | B Engine mounting

C Gearbox bracket

20.139 Detach the engine front right-hand mounting brace from the engine mounting by removing the two retaining nuts

A Engine mounting brace B Brace retaining nuts

C Engine mounting D Engine mounting retaining nuts

134 Disconnect the lower suspension arm balljoint from the spindle carrier each side. 135 Where it is not possible to drain the gearbox oil, it is necessary to prepare for some oil loss as each driveshaft is withdrawn. Position a suitable container under the gearbox.

20.140 Remove the engine mounting brace to front axle crossmember securing bolt f (arrowed)

133 Detach each stabiliser link rod from its respective suspension strut.

136 Remove the right-hand driveshaft by levering between the CV joint and the differential housing. With the shaft removed, plug its aperture in the gearbox to prevent further oil loss when the engine/gearbox unit is removed. Tie the shaft up to the suspension member to support it and prevent the CV joints from being strained. The inner joint must not be angled more than 20°, the outer joint more than 45°. 137 Using Ford tool 16-057, drive the lefthand driveshaft from its seat. Pull the shaft clear of the gearbox and tie it up to the suspension member to support it and to prevent the joints from being strained. The inner joint must not be angled more than 20°, the outer joint more than 45°. With the shaft

removed, insert a wooden or plastic plug in its aperture to prevent the differential side gears from being dislodged and further oil leakage. 138 Remove the nut and washer retaining the gearbox bracket to the engine rear right-hand mounting (see illustration). 139 Detach the engine front right-hand mounting brace from the engine mounting by removing the two retaining nuts (see illustration). 140 Remove the engine mounting brace from the front axle crossmember (see illustration). 141 Remove the three nuts retaining the engine rear mounting/gearbox bracket to the gearbox and remove the bracket (see illustration). 142 Position a low bench trolley beneath the engine/transmission and lower the vehicle until the unit rests securely on the trolley. 143 Unscrew the two nuts securing the engine right-hand mounting to the suspension strut top mounting bracket and remove the mounting (see illustration).

H28957 20.141 Remove the engine rear mounting/gearbox bracket to gearbox securing nuts (arrowed)

20.143 Remove the engine right-hand mounting to suspension strut top mounting bracket securing nuts (arrowed)

3B

3Be28

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

20.144 Remove the engine left-hand mounting to sidemember retaining bolts (arrowed) 144 Detach the engine left-hand mounting from the sidemember by removing its two retaining bolts (see illustration). 145 Detach the gearbox mounting roll restrictor from the sidemember by removing its two retaining bolts (see illustration). 146 The engine/ transmission should now be ready for removal. Check that all attachments and fittings are clear and not in a position where they may impede removal and get damaged in the process. 147 Raise the vehicle and ensure that it is securely supported, high enough to permit the

withdrawal of the engine/transmission and bench trolley from underneath. 148 If the vehicle is to be moved whilst the engine is out, temporarily reconnect the front suspension components and ensure that the driveshafts are suitably supported so that they can rotate without being damaged.

24 Engine/transmission separation

WV Refer to Section 23, Chapter 3, Part A, but note that the starter motor and its support bracket are secured by four bolts and the engine bracket by three bolts. On steel sump

20.145 Remove the gearbox mounting roll restrictor to sidemember retaining bolts (arrowed)

23 Engine - complete dismantling

HH: Non turbocharged engine 1 Unbolt and remove the exhaust manifold. If this is the first time that the engine has been dismantled, then no exhaust manifold gasket will be found, but one will be required at reassembly. 2 Unbolt and remove the clutch assembly from the flywheel. 3 Unbolt and remove the flywheel. 4 Release the tension, and then remove the alternator drivebelt. 5 Unscrew the bolts, release the clips, and take off the upper and lower camshaft toothed belt covers. 6 Using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation until the drilling in the injection pump flange (CAV) or the recess (Bosch) is aligned with the drilling in the pump housing. This indicates TDC on Nos 1 and 4 pistons. 7 Remove the camshaft belt tensioner and spring. A Torx bit will be required for the spring bolt. Take off the camshaft drivebelt.

models, the flywheel cover plate is secured by three bolts. The aluminium sump used on later models is secured to the base of the crankcase by 14 or 16 bolts (dependent on model type) and to the clutch bell housing by two bolts.

22 Engine dismantling - general ~ information 23.8 Method of locking crankshaft Refer to Section 24, Chapter 3, Part A.

BS

8 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft pulley vibration damper. To prevent rotation of the crankshaft while unscrewing the bolt, screw two bolts into the flywheel mounting flange, and place a long lever between them (see illustration). 9 Remove the injection pump belt tensioner and its spring, and then take off the drivebelt. 10 Using a Torx bit, remove the camshaft belt idler pulley. 11. Unbolt and remove the camshaft belt sprocket, but only unscrew the outer bolts. 12 Unbolt and remove the belt cover backing plates.

13 Unscrew the three bolts and remove the fuel injection pump belt sprocket. 14 Detach the leak-off pipes from the injectors and the injection pump. 15 Disconnect the pipes from the injectors and the injection pump. Cap the openings to prevent the entry of dirt. Lift the pipe assembly away. 16 Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel filter. 17 Unbolt and remove the injection pump bracket. 18 Extract the Torx screws and remove the fuel injection pump, complete with fuel line. 19 Unbolt and remove the alternator, with its adjuster link. 20 Unbolt and remove the alternator bracket. 21 Pull off the crankcase ventilation system hoses from the camshaft cover, cylinder block and inlet manifold. 22 Remove the fuel filter with its bracket, and the engine lifting eye. 23 Disconnect the vacuum pump oil return hose from the cylinder block, and then unscrew the two bolts and remove the vacuum pump from the cylinder head. 24 Disconnect the coolant hoses from the coolant pump and thermostat housing. 25 Unbolt and remove the thermostat housing. 26 Unscrew the fuel injectors, using a deep socket.

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

3Be29

23.43 No 12 Torx socket and big-end bearing cap bolt

27 Extract the heat shields. These should be renewed on reassembly. 28 Disconnect the glow plug wiring loom and unscrew the glow plugs. 29 Unscrew the three bolts and take off the camshaft cover and gasket. 30 Unscrew and remove the cylinder head bolts in the reverse sequence to tightening. 31 Remove the cylinder head and gasket. 32 Unscrew and discard the oil filter.

33 Unscrew the four bolts and remove the oil pump from the cylinder block. 34 Unscrew the bolt and remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket. 35 Remove the three bolts and take off the auxiliary shaft oil seal carrier with seal. 36 Unscrew the auxiliary shaft thrustplate bolts, and withdraw the shaft with thrustplate. 37 Unbolt and remove the coolant pump. 38 Unscrew the sump pan bolts, and remove the pan. 39 Remove the belt sprocket from the crankshaft, using a puller if necessary. 40 Using a Torx bit, remove the engine front plate screws and withdraw the plate. 41 Unbolt and remove the crankshaft rear oil seal carrier.

42 Invert the engine, and unbolt and remove the oil pick-up pipe and bracket. 43 Check that the big-end bearing caps and

23.51 Disconnect the oil cooler feed hose (1) and remove the bracket bolts (2)

connecting rods are marked 1 to 4, from the camshaft belt end of the engine. Using an internally-splined Torx socket, unscrew the big-end bearing cap bolts and remove them (see illustration). 44 Withdraw the piston/rod assemblies out of the top of the cylinder block. 45 If the original shells are to be used again, keep them with their respective caps or rods. 46 Unbolt the main bearing caps (numbered 1 to 5 from the camshaft belt end of the engine) and remove them. If the original shells are to be used again, keep them taped to their respective caps. Remove the crankshaft. 47 The piston-cooling oil jets.are inserted into the cylinder block, projecting upwards from Nos 1 to 4 main bearings. These must be removed if the lubricating system is to be effectively and thoroughly cleaned at overhaul. See your local Ford dealer or engine reconditioning specialist for details.

Turbocharged engine Mondeo 48

Unbolt and remove the exhaust manifold.

If this is the first time that the engine has been dismantled, then no exhaust manifold gasket will be found, but one will be required at reassembly. 49 Unbolt and remove the clutch assembly from the flywheel. 50 Unbolt and remove the flywheel followed by the crankshaft rear radial oil seal carrier. 51 Disconnect the oil cooler feed hose and remove the bracket bolts shown (see illustration). 52 Remove the complete oil pump assembly, referring to the appropriate Section of this Chapter. 53 With the turbocharger removed, detach its mounting bracket from the cylinder block by removing the three securing bolts (see illustration). 54 Detach the front axle driveshaft bracket from the cylinder block by removing its three securing bolts (see illustration). 55 Remove the alternator and belt tensioner assembly by first loosening the tensioner pulley clamp bolt and rotating the pulley adjuster screw to slacken the drivebelt and

H28961

23.53 Remove the turbocharger

mounting bracket bolts (arrowed)

23.54 Remove the front axle driveshaft bracket to cylinder block securing bolts (arrowed)

3B

3Be30

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

23.55 Alternator and belt tensioner assembly 1 Tensioner pulley clamp bolt 2 Tensioner pulley adjuster

screw

3 Tensioner pulley bracket securing bolts 4 Alternator securing bolts

allow its removal. Remove the tensioner pulley bracket by releasing its two securing bolts and then the alternator by releasing its three securing bolts (see illustration). 56 Detach the alternator mounting bracket from the cylinder block by removing its four securing bolts. 57 Disconnect the coolant hose adjacent to the fuel injection pump pulley. Unscrew the three fuel injection pump pulley retaining bolts and remove the pulley from the pump. 58 Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 5 to 12 inclusive of this Section. 59 Detach the leak-off pipes and fuel lines from the injectors. Cap the openings to prevent the entry of dirt. 60 Detach the fuel lines from the fuel filter (two quick release couplings) and remove the

fuel heater from its mounting bracket by releasing the two clips. 61 Remove the two fuel filter bracket retaining nuts, remove the vacuum pipe clamp bolt and

23.62 Remove the fuel injection pump/retaining bracket bolts and nuts (1) the fuel regulating thermostat (2) the vacuum pipe retaining bracket (3) and disconnect the vacuum pipe from the

pump (4)

remove the filter/bracket assembly. Detach the vacuum pipe from the turbocharger. 62 Remove the fuel injection pump/retaining bracket. Unscrew the fuel regulating thermostat from the thermostat housing. Release the vacuum pipe retaining bracket and disconnect the pipe from the pump (see illustration). 63 Extract the Torx screws and remove the fuel injection pump. 64 Remove the engine mounting/vacuum pump bracket to engine lifting eye bolts and then the bracket to cylinder block bolts. Remove the bracket (see illustration). 65 Detach the coolant hose from the coolant pump and thermostat housing. 66 Pull off the crankcase ventilation system hoses from the camshaft cover, cylinder block

and turbocharger. 67 Remove the oil dipstick bracket retaining bolt and remove the dipstick/bracket assembly. 68 Disconnect the vacuum pump oil return

23.64 Remove the engine mounting/vacuum pump bracket to engine lifting eye bolts (1) the bracket to cylinder block bolts (2) and detach the coolant hose from the pump and thermostat housing (3)

hose from the cylinder block. Unscrew the two pump securing bolts and remove the vacuum pump from the cylinder head, noting the fitted position of the glow plug wiring retaining bracket beneath one of the bolt heads - see Chapter 6. 69 Unbolt and remove the thermostat

housing. 70 Unscrew the fuel injectors, using a deep socket - see Chapter 4, Part B.

71 Extract the heat shields. These should be renewed on reassembly. 72 Disconnect the glow plug wiring loom and unscrew the glow plugs. 73 Unscrew the three bolts and take off the camshaft cover and gasket. 74 Unscrew the four nuts and remove the oil baffle. 75 Remove the turbocharger oil return hose by loosening its retaining clips and pulling it from the cylinder block connection (see illustration). ;

23.75 Remove the turbocharger oil return hose by loosening its retaining clips and pulling it from the cylinder block

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Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

3Be31

~.

Ay 23.96 Remove the coolant distribution pipe and bracket from the cylinder block (retaining bolts arrowed)

76 Unscrew and remove the cylinder head bolts in the reverse sequence to tightening. 77 Remove the cylinder head and gasket. 78 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the crankshaft position sensor. 79 Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 34 to 40 inclusive of this Section. 80 Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 42 to 47 inclusive of this Section.

Escort 81 Unbolt and remove the exhaust manifold. If this is the first time that the engine has been dismantled, then no exhaust manifold gasket will be fitted, but one will be required at reassembly. 82 Disconnect the oil feed pipe from the turbocharger by removing its two retaining bolts. 83 Disconnect the coolant hoses to the oil cooler and remove the complete oil pump assembly, referring to the appropriate Section of this Chapter. ’ 84 Detach the turbocharger mounting plate from the cylinder block by removing its two securing bolts and remove the assembly from the engine. 85 Detach the starter motor with its mounting bracket from the cylinder block by removing the four securing bolts. 86 Remove any other brackets from the cylinder block. 87 Unbolt and remove the clutch assembly from the flywheel. 88 Unbolt and remove the flywheel followed by the crankshaft rear radial oil seal carrier. 89 Refer to Chapter 6 and remove the alternator drivebelt 90 Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 5 to 12 inclusive of this Section. 91 Unscrew the three fuel injection pump pulley retaining bolts and remove the pulley from the pump. 92 Detach the fuel lines from the injectors and fuel injection pump. Cap the openings to

prevent the entry of dirt.

ce

27.1 Location of piston-cooling oil jets

93 Remove the alternator with its belt tensioner strap. 94 Detach the alternator mounting bracket from the cylinder block by removing its three

27 Engine - complete reassembly

x

xs ~w

securing bolts. 95 Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 60 to 63 inclusive of this Section. 96 Detach the coolant hoses from the coolant pump and thermostat housing and remove the distribution pipe and bracket from the cylinder block (see illustration). 97 Pull off the crankcase ventilation system hoses from the camshaft cover, cylinder block and turbocharger. 98 Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 68 to 77 inclusive of this Section. 99 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the crankshaft position sensor. 100 Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 34 to 47 inclusive of this Section.

24 Examination and renovation - general information

Non turbocharged engine 1 Position the block so that access to the bottom end is clear, and then wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in the block. Do not forget to check that the oil jets are clear and securely refitted (see’illustration). 2 Fit the bearing shells to the crankcase, noting that No. 1 is of twin-shell type, with a lubrication groove in each shell. All the other, main bearings incorporate a lubrication groove in the crankcase shell only. 3-Fit the plain shells into the bearing caps. 4 Fit the thrustwashers on both sides of No. 3 main bearing, so that the oil grooves are visible. 5 Lower the crankshaft into place and oil the journals. Locate the main bearing caps with their shells, so that their numbered position is correct, and the triangular mark has its apex towards the camshaft belt end of the engine. No 1 cap must be flush with the block.

6 Screw in new main bearing cap bolts (lightly oiled), and tighten to the specified torque (see Refer to Section 26, Chapter 3, Part A.

illustration).

25 Engine components examination and renovation

VWHK Refer to Section 27, Chapter 3, Part A, and the Specifications of this Chapter.

26 Engine reassembly - general information

Refer to Section 28, Chapter 3, Part A.

27.6 Angle-tightening a main bearing cap bolt

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Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

2

i

27.9a Pushing oil pick-up pipe into crankcase hole - note O-ring seal (arrowed)

27.9b Tightening oil pick-up pipe bracket bolt

7 Measure the crankshaft endfloat by levering the crankshaft back and forth and using feeler blades or a dial gauge. If the endfloat is not within the specified limits, then dismantling must be carried out and the thrustwashers changed for ones of different thickness. 8 Fit the pistons/connecting rods in their correct cylinder bores, as described in Section 16. Tighten the big-end bearing cap bolts as specified. 9 Fit the oil pick-up pipe and bracket. Make sure that the O-ring is correctly seated (see illustrations). 10 Using a new gasket, fit the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer with a new oil seal. Make sure that the retainer is flush with the edge of the cylinder block. Grease the seal lips (see illustration). 11 Using a new gasket, fit the engine front plate, making sure that its edge is flush with

the edge of the cylinder block and that the vibration damper is centred in the hole in the plate (see illustration). 12 Draw a new crankshaft front oil seal into place, using a suitable piece of tubing and the vibration damper centre bolt as an installer. 13 Fit the drivebelt sprocket fully onto the front of the crankshaft, making sure that the positioning dowel engages correctly and that the O-ring is in good condition. Lessen the risk of damage to the O-ring by lubricating it with engine oil. Fit the vibration damper/pulley, engaging the vee in its cut-out. Tighten the fixing bolt to the specified torque (see illustrations). 14 Fit the sump pan and its gasket. 15 Using a new gasket and noting the torque setting for the retaining bolts, fit the coolant pump (see illustration). 16 Oil the bearings, and fit the auxiliary shaft

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27.10 Tightening crankshaft rear oil seal retainer bolt (see illustration).

17 Fit the auxiliary shaft thrustplate so that the oil grooves-are visible (see illustration). Tighten the plate bolts to the specified torque. 18 Fit a new auxiliary shaft/oil seal assembly, which is supplied complete with a retainer. A plastic installer is provided to prevent damage to the oil seal lips as it is pushed over the step on the shaft, but insulating tape will serve as an alternative. Grease the seal lips before fitting the retainer plate (see illustrations). 19 Fit the oil pump. 20 Smear oil on the sealing ring of a new oil filter and screw it on hand-tight. 21 Check each piston protrusion at TDC. Select a cylinder head gasket from those specified and fit the cylinder head, referring to the appropriate Section of this Chapter. Remember that no subsequent retightening of the cylinder head bolts is required.

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27.13a Crankshaft inner sprocket showing O-ring seal (arrowed)

27.13b Fitting crankshaft inner sprocket

‘ 27.13c Fitting crankshaft sprocket/damper assembly

27.16 Inserting the auxiliary shaft

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Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

27.17 Auxiliary shaft thrustplate '

27.18a Auxiliary shaft oil seal retainer with plastic installer

22 Screw in the glow plugs and connect the 23 Fit the fuel injectors, using new heat wiring, with the black coiled end towards _ shields. Tighten the injectors to the specified

flywheel.

torque.

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27.18b Tightening auxiliary shaft oil seal retainer bolts

24 Using a new gasket, fit the thermostat housing, and assemble its component parts. Fit the dipstick guide tube, using a new O-ring (see illustrations). 25 Fit the coolant hose to the coolant pump, so that the white mark on the hose is aligned with the cast mark on the pump. 26 Connect the coolant distribution pipe, and then push it into its spring clip on the side member. 27 Fit the alternator bracket, the alternator and adjuster strap (see illustrations).

28 Fit the fuel deflector, fuel pump

and

bracket (see illustrations). 29 Connect the fuel injection pipes, and also the leak-off pipes (see illustrations). 30 Fit the vacuum pump (using a new O-ring

seal) in the following way. Screw in the lower bolt, fit the pump, and then screw in the upper ,

27.18c Auxiliary shaft oil seal retainer with installer removed

27.24e Tightening dipstick guide tube upper bracket bolt

27.27a Fit the alternator bracket...

27.27b .... and then the alternator

3Be34

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

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27.28a Fitting the fuel injection pump

27.28b Fuel injection pump rear bracket

27.29a Connecting a fuel injector pipe union

bolt. Tighten both bolts equally. Connect the oil return hose (see illustrations). 31 Fit the fuel filter, bracket and engine lifting eye to the cylinder head. 32 Connect the fuel outlet hose to the fuel filter (see illustration).

33 Fit the toothed belt backing plates (see illustration). 34 Fit the camshaft sprocket and belt tensioner, and also the idler sprocket (see illustrations). 35 Fit the lower side cover (see illustration). 36 Fit the injection pump sprocket.

37 Fit the injection pump belt tensioner, locked in its retracted position (see illustration). 38 Fit the auxiliary shaft sprocket, making sure that the locating dowel is correctly engaged (see illustrations).

27.29c Fuel pipes at the injection pump

27.30a Fitting the vacuum pump

27.30b Vacuum pump oil return hose

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

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27.32 Connecting fuel outlet hose to Bosch filter

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27.34b Camshaft belt tensioner (A) and idler sprocket (B)

27.34c Tightening idler sprocket Torx bolt 39 Check the valve timing adjustment and fit and tension the drivebelts. 40 Fit the upper and lower belt covers, making sure that the drivebelt cover spacer stud on the coolant pump is secure by applying thread-locking fluid. 41 Fit and tension the alternator drivebelt. 42 Locate the engine rear plate on its dowels (see illustration). 43 Fit the flywheel, using new bolts, and tightening to the. specified torque. The flywheel can only be fitted in one position, as the bolt holes are offset (see illustration). 44 Fit the clutch assembly, remembering to centralise the driven plate.

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27.38a Auxiliary shaft sprocket

27.38b Tighten auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt. Strap wrench prevents sprocket rotating

27.42 Engine rear plate (arrowed)

3B

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Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

27.43 Angle-tightening flywheel bolts

45 Check the valve clearances and adjust if necessary. 46 Fit the camshaft cover, with a new gasket (see illustrations). 47 Reconnect the crankcase ventilation system hoses (see illustrations). 48 Fit the exhaust manifold, with a new gasket. 49 It is recommended that the plastic upper section of the inlet manifold is fitted after the engine is in the vehicle but cover the inlet ports now, to prevent the entry of dirt.

Turbocharged engine Mondeo Note illustrations: Unless otherwise stated, refer to the illustrations given for the non turbocharged engine. 50 Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 1 to 9 inclusive of this Section. 51 Using a new gasket and new oilway seals, fit the engine front plate, making sure that its edge is flush with the lower edge of the cylinder block (tolerance 0.10mm). Note that the vibration damper must be centred with the

hole in the plate - Ford tool 21 148 is supplied for this purpose. 52 Draw a new crankshaft front oil seal into place, using a suitable piece of tubing and the

27.46a Camshaft cover gasket

vibration damper centre bolt as an installer. 53 Fit the drivebelt sprocket fully onto the front of the crankshaft, making sure that the positioning dowel engages correctly and that the O-ring is in good condition. Lessen the risk of damage to the O-ring by lubricating it with engine oil. Fit the vibration damper/pulley, engaging the vee in its cut-out. Tighten the fixing bolt to the specified torque.

54 Refer to Section 14 of this Chapter and apply Ford approved sealant to the cylinder block/sump mating surfaces. 55 Fit the sump pan and a new gasket, tightening the retaining bolts finger-tight only. 56 Refit the crankshaft rear radial oil seal carrier and its new gasket. The carrier is centred by means of locating lugs in the carrier recess. Fit and tighten the carrier retaining bolts, in a diagonal sequence to the specified torque loading. 57 Fully tighten the sump retaining bolts, in a diagonal sequence to the specified torque loading. Note that this must be done within 20 minutes of applying the sealant. 58 Fit the new crankshaft rear radial oil seal into the carrier as far as the shoulder by using Ford tool 21 011F in conjunction with two flywheel bolts, as shown - see Section 13. 59 Using new bolts, refit the flywheel. Tighten

the bolts to the specified torque through the stages stated.

60 .Fit the clutch assembly, remembering to centralise the driven plate. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque in a diagonal sequence. 61 Refer to Chapter 5 and refit the crankshaft

position sensor. 62 18 63 24

Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 15 to inclusive’of this Section. Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 21 to inclusive of this Section. ;

64 Reconnect

the coolant

hoses to the

coolant pump and thermostat housing. 65 Refit the vacuum pump bracket 66 Refit the vacuum pump, using a new Oring and fitting the lower bolt first. Reconnect the pump oil return hose to the cylinder block. The glow plug wiring retaining bracket should be located beneath one of the bolt heads, as

noted during removal. 67 Refit the fuel injection pump and bracket,

tightening the retaining screws to the specified torque. 68 Refit the fuel regulating thermostat to the thermostat housing. Reattach the vacuum pipe retaining bracket and reconnect the pipe to the pump. 69 Refit the fuel filter/bracket assembly, tightening the retaining nuts to the specified torque. Refit the vacuum pipe clamp bolt and

27.47b Crankcase vent hose at camshaft

cover

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

eee reconnect the vacuum pipe to the turbocharger. 70 Reconnect the fuel heater to its mounting bracket by attaching the two clips and reconnect the fuel lines to the fuel filter by means of the two quick release couplings. 71 Remove any blanking material and reconnect the leak-off pipes and fuel lines to the injectors. _ 72 Refit the camshaft belt rear covers and

idler sprocket.

the

reconnect the fuel lines to the fuel filter by means of the two quick release couplings. 108 Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 72 to 81 inclusive of this Section. 109 Reconnect the coolant hose adjacent to the fuel injection pump pulley. 110 Refer to Chapter 6 and fit and tension the alternator drivebelt. 111 Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 87 to 95 inclusive of this Section, omitting paragraph 90.

Escort

73 Refit the camshaft sprocket, tightening its retaining bolt to the specified torque. 74 Refit the auxiliary shaft sprocket. The locating pin on the shaft must align with the hole in the pulley.

75 Refit

92 Refit the complete oil pump assembly with a new filter and oil cooler, referring to the appropriate Section of this Chapter. 93 Reconnect the oil cooler feed hose and tighten the bracket bolts to the specified torque setting. 94 Refer to Chapter 4 and fit the exhaust manifold, with a new gasket. 95 Cover the inlet manifold ports to prevent the entry of dirt.

3Be37

camshaft

belt

tensioner,

compress the tensioner spring and secure it with the clamp bolt. ° 76 Refit the sprocket to the fuel injection

pump. Centre the retaining bolts in the sprocket slots but do not tighten them until the drivebelt is tensioned. 77 Refit the injection pump belt tensioner, compress the tensioner spring and secure it with the bolt. 78 Lock the crankshaft in position by means of the flywheel ring gear and refit the crankshaft vibration damper whilst ensuring that the lug and notch are aligned. Tighten the damper retaining bolt to the specified torque through the stages stated. 79 Refer to the appropriate Section of this Chapter and check the valve timing adjustment.

;

80 Refer to Chapter 2 and fit and tension the fuel injection pump and camshaft drivebelts. 81 Refit the upper and lower camshaft belt

covers. 82 Refit the pulley to the fuel injection pump, tightening the bolts to the specified torque setting. 83 Reconnect the coolant hose adjacent to the fuel injection pump pulley 84 Refit the alternator mounting bracket to the cylinder block, tightening the bolts to the specified torque setting. 85 Refit the alternator and -belt tensioner assembly. 86 Refer to Chapter 6 and fit and tension the alternator drivebelt. 87 Refer to the appropriate Section of this Chapter and check the valve clearances.

88 Fit the oil baffle cover with a new disturbed fasteners setting. 89 Reconnect the

96 Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 1 to 9 inclusive of this Section. 97 Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 51 to 53 inclusive of this Section. 98 Dependent on the type of sump fitted (steel-or alloy), refer to Section 14 of this Chapter and refit the sump. Note that the retaining bolts of an alloy sump must be fitted finger-tight only. 99 Proceed as detailed in paragraphs 56 to 63 inclusive of this Section. 100 Refit the distribution pipe and bracket to the cylinder block and reconnect the coolant hoses to the coolant pump and thermostat housing. Note that where moulded hoses are fitted, the white paint mark on the hose should align with the cast mark on the pump. 101 Refit the alternator mounting bracket to the cylinder-block and refit the alternator with its belt tensioner strap to the bracket. 102 Refit the fuel injection pump and bracket, tightening the retaining screws to the specified torque. 103 Connect the fuel lines to the injectors and fuel injection pump having removed any capping material. 104 Refit the fuel regulating thermostat to the thermostat housing. Reattach the vacuum pipe retaining bracket and reconnect the pipe to the pump. 105 Refit the vacuum pump, using a new Oring and fitting the lower bolt first. Reconnect the pump oil return hose to the cylinder block. 106 Refit the fuel filter/bracket assembly, tightening the retaining nuts to the specified torque. Refit the vacuum pipe clamp bolt and reconnect the vacuum pipe to the turbocharger. 107 Reconnect the fuel heater to its mounting bracket by attaching the two clips and

28 Engine - refitting to transmission

1 Offer the transmission to the engine, rocking it slightly until the locating dowels engage fully. Do not allow the weight of the transmission to hang upon the input shaft once it is engaged in the clutch. 2 Refit and tighten securely the engine-totransmission bolts. 3 Bolt on the starter motor and bracket. 4 Bolt on the flywheel cover plate (where fitted) and the right-hand mounting, if removed.

29 Engine/transmission refitting

1 With the front of the vehicle raised and securely supported, place the engine/transmission on a suitable trolley and slide it under the engine compartment (see illustration). 2 Attach a suitable hoist, and carefully lift the engine/transmission until the right-hand mounting bolts can be inserted (see illustration). 3 Reconnect the engine and transmission mountings. On the Fiesta model, bolt the transmission flexible mounting to the bearer then bolt the bearer to the body (see illustrations). On Escort models, reconnect the right-hand engine mounting strut. 4 As soon as the engine/transmission is secure, remove the lifting gear.

crankcase ventilation system hoses to the camshaft cover, cylinder block and turbocharger. 90 Refit the front axle driveshaft bracket to

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29.1 Engine/transmission unit ready for installation

WK:

Non turbocharged engine

and then the camshaft gasket, tightening all to the specified torque

the cylinder block, tightening the retaining bolts to the specified torque setting. 91 Refit the turbocharger mounting bracket to the cylinder block, tightening the retaining bolts to the specified torque setting.

x xx

on! 29.2 Engine/transmission unit being hoisted into the vehicle

3B

3Be38

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

bis

29.3a Bearer for transmission flexible mountings (Fiesta)

5 Reconnect the gearchange stabiliser rod to the transmission, noting the location of the plain washer (see illustration). 6 Reconnect the gearchange rod. To do this, have the lever inside the vehicle, and the transmission selector rod, in 4th gear. Insert a thin rod through the cut-outs in the plastic housing below the gear lever, under the

29.3b Bearer bolts at towing hook end (Fiesta)

vehicle. The rod should be inserted with its end inclined upwards, so that it passes through the hole in the lever dog, and then pulled to the horizontal position (see illustration). 7 Slide the gearchange rod clamp over the joint, and then tighten the clamp pinch-bolt (see illustration).

29.5 Gearchange stabiliser rod - note location of the plain washer (arrowed)

29.9 Starter motor connections

8 Check that all gears can be selected. 9 Connect the electrical leads to the starter motor (see illustration). 10 Connect the leads to the alternator (see illustrations). 11 Fit the driveshafts, making sure that the dummy shafts have been removed from the transmission.

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

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3Be39

a

29.10b Alternator connector plug retaining spring clip (arrowed)

29.13 Always renew gasket when reconnecting exhaust downpipe to manifold

29.16 Coolant distribution pipe in clip

12 Fit the roadwheels. 13 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe to the manifold, and the front section, or the complete exhaust system, to its rubber hangers (see illustration). 14 Refit the radiator and bolt the fan assembly into position (if removed), and reconnect the wiring plug.

15 Connect the coolant hoses, the heater hoses and the expansion tank hoses to the cylinder head and thermostat housing. 16 Where applicable, reconnect and clip the metal coolant distribution pipe (see illustration). 17 Connect the clutch operating cable (see illustration).

18 Connect the speedometer cable to the transmission (see illustration). 19 Connect the vacuum pipe from the brake

“=

servo to the vacuum pump (see illustrations). 20 Connect the fuel inlet and return hoses. 21 Connect the transmission earth strap.

22 Connect

the

electrical

leads

following:

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29.19a Connecting the brake servo hose to the vacuum pump

29.19b Connecting the brake servo hose to the servo

to the

3Be40

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

a) Oil pressure switch (see illustration) b) Coolant temperature switch (see illustration)

c) Fuel injection pump fuel shut-off solenoid and cold start device d) Glow plug feed e) Radiator fan thermoswitch cable (see 23 Connect the throttle illustration). 24 Using new sealing rings, bolt on the plastic upper section of the inlet manifold. 25 Fit the air cleaner casing, the filter element and lid, and connect the air inlet hose. 26 Fit the protective cover to the rear of the alternator (see illustration). 27 Support the vehicle with a substantial hydraulic or screw type jack placed under the front mounting point and remove the axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 28 Lower the vehicle to the ground. 29 Fill the engine and transmission with the specified quantities and grades of oil. 30 Fill and bleed the cooling system. 31 Reconnect the battery. 32 Refit the bonnet and connect the washer tube.

Turbocharged engine Mondeo 33 Refitting the engine/transmission is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points. a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench settings specified. b) Renew all circlips and self-locking nuts disturbed on removal. c) Use new cable-ties to secure wiring, etc. which had to be displaced on.removal. 34 Manoeuvre the engine/transmission under the vehicle and carefully lower the vehicle into position until the right and_ left-hand mountings are in alignment. 35 Attach the engine support bar and use it to lift the engine/transmission until the right and left-hand mountings can be reassembled. Tighten the nuts only lightly at this stage. 36 Raise the front of the vehicle and securely support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support’). 37 Using a new circlip, refit the left-hand driveshaft. Ensure that the circlip is correctly engaged. 38 Refit the right-hand driveshaft and centre bearing, tightening the bearing bolts to the specified torque wrench setting. 39 Where the vehicle is fitted with air conditioning, refit the compressor, tightening the bolts to the specified torque wrench setting and plugging in its electrical connector.

40 Fit and tension the compressor drivebelt, see Chapter 6. 41 Refit the subframe and align it on the underbody. Ford specify the use of service tool 15-097 (a pair of tapered guides with attachments to hold them in the subframe as it is refitted) for this task. However, since the

.

|

29.22a Oil pressure switch (arrowed) and cable

29.22b Coolant temperature switch (arrowed) and cable on thermostat housing (Fiesta)

working diameter of these tools is 20.40 mm,

44 Fasten the tool to the subframe and lightly tighten the mounting’s centre bolt. Lower the vehicle and refit the engine/transmission mountings in the following sequence, whilst referring to Section 18: a) Fit the left-hand mounting nuts and tighten to the specified torque wrench setting --do not allow the mounting to distort as the nuts are tightened. b) Fit the right-hand mounting bracket-toengine nuts and tighten to the specified torque wrench setting. c) Slowly release and remove the engine support bar so that the weight of the engine/transmission is taken by the mountings. d) Fit the right-hand mounting bracket-tomounting nuts and tighten to the specified torque wrench setting - do not allow the mounting todistort as the nuts are tightened. e) Reassemble the engine/transmission rear mounting (roll restictor), tightening the fasteners to the specified torque wrench settings. Tighten the centre bolt last. f) Refit the steering gear to the subframe. If the Ford service tool is used to tighten the bolts from underneath the vehicle, note that a torque wrench which can tighten in an anti-clockwise direction will be required. : g) Unbolt the special tool from the front mounting. Refit the mounting and tighten first the mounting’s bolts/nuts, then its centre bolt, to their respective specified torque wrench settings. ;

and since the corresponding aligning holes in the subframe and underbody are respectively 21 mm and 22 mm in diameter, there is a significant in-built tolerance possible in subframe alignment, even if the correct tools are used. If these tools are not available, you can align the subframe by eye, centring the subframe aligning holes on those of the underbody. Alternatively, you can align the subframe using a tapered drift (such as a clutch-aligning tool) or even a deep socket spanner of suitable size - see illustrations 9.45a and b. 42 Once the subframe is aligned as precisely as possible with both the underbody and steering gear, refit the subframe bolts, ensuring that the washers are refitted correctly. Tighten the bolts in a diagonal sequence to the specified torque wrench setting without disturbing the subframe. Recheck alignment once all the bolts are securely tightened. 43 With the subframe aligned and securely fastened, the engine/transmission must now be positioned precisely to facilitate mounting reassembly. Ford specify the use of service tool 21-172. This is bolted to the subframe in place of the engine/transmission front mounting (roll restrictor), so that when the mounting’s centre bolt is refitted, it is held 60 mm above the subframe’s top surface, and offset 20 mm to the rear of the mounting’s subframe bolt hole centres. DIY mechanics are advised to obtain the Ford tool as the only alternative is to have a copy fabricated - see illustration 9.47.

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine 45 On vehicles without air conditioning, refit the radiator mounting brackets to the subframe, tightening the bolts to the torque wrench setting specified. Remove the top securing pins. 46 Swivel the gearchange linkage forwards and refit the mounting retaining bolts, tightening them to the specified torque setting. Refit the gearchange linkage heat shield. 47 Refit the gearchange stabiliser, tightening the Torx bolt to the specified torque setting. 48 Reconnect the selector shaft to the rod, tightening the fasteners to the specified torque setting. 49 Reconnect each lower suspension arm balljoint to its respective spindle carrier, inserting each brake hose in its bracket. 50 Reconnect each track rod end, using a new split-pin to lock the retaining nut in position. 51 Refit each stabiliser link rod to its respective suspension strut.

52 Refit each ABS wiring loom bracket to the suspension strut. 53 On vehicles equipped with — air conditioning, refit the radiator and fan assembly, followed by each condenser and

_ the conditioning dehydrator. 54 From beneath the vehicle, reconnect the following electrical connectors: a) Left and right-hand fan motor multiplugs (air conditioned models only) b) Ballast resistor multiplug (air conditioned models only) c) Diode (unclip - air conditioned models only) 55 Lower the vehicle to allow easy access to the top of the engine. 56 Working in the reverse order to that given for engine removal, reconnect all electrical connectors. 57 Refit the power steering pump, its drivebelt and the belt tensioner. 58 Refer to Chapter 6 and tension the power steering pump drivebelt. On completion, refit the belt cover. 59 Reconnect all the electrical connectors disturbed during removal.

60 Reconnect the clutch cable to its retaining bracket. Reconnect the cable to the release lever and check it for correct adjustment 61 Reconnect the vacuum pipe union to the vacuum pump. 62 Refit the throttle cable mounting bracket. Reconnect the throttle cable to the bracket, retaining it with the clip, and reconnect the cable to the injection pump. 63 Reconnect the vacuum hose to the EGR valve. 64 Reconnect the heater hoses to the oil cooler and cylinder head, using new retaining clips where necessary. 65 Reconnect the quick-release coupling of the fuel feed pipe. 66 Reconnect the cooling system hoses to the following components: a) The thermostat housing

3Be41

H28949 29.74 Ford tool 16-073 will be required to carry out gearchange linkage adjustment (A). This tool is a slotted ring which locks the gear lever in the neutral position (B) b) The inlet manifold c) The expansion tank 67 Refit the hose/cable retaining clip to the engine lifting eye and reconnect the fuel return

line to the fuel injection pump. 68 Relocate all hoses and cables in the retaining clip on the cylinder head and fasten the clip. 69

Refer to Chapter 4, Part B, and refit the

charge air cooler. 70 Remove the blank from the turbocharger inlet and reconnect the air inlet hose, using a new retaining clip where necessary. 71 Refer to Chapter 2 and refit the air cleaner element. 72 Lightly grease the mating surface of the mass airflow (MAF) sensor rubber retaining ring and refit the sensor, reconnecting its multiplug. 73 Refit the air inlet system resonator. 74 It is now necessary to adjust the gearchange linkage. Note that a special Ford tool 16-073 will be required in order to carry out the adjustment. This tool is simply a slotted ring which locks the gear lever in the neutral position during adjustment. If the tool is not available, adjustment is still possible by proceeding on a trial-and-error basis, preferably with the help of an assistant to hold the gear lever in the neutral position. Proceed as follows: a) Remove the gearchange lever gaiter and bellows. b) Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Move the gear lever to the neutral position.

c) Working beneath the vehicle, loosen the clamp bolt on the gearchange linkage. d) With the gear lever still in neutral, fit the special Ford tool 16-073 over the gear lever, and locate it in the recess in the lever retaining housing on top of the transmission. Twist the tool clockwise to lock the lever in the neutral position. Take care during the adjustment not to move

the gear lever or displace the adjustment tool (see illustration). e) Check that the front part of the gearchange linkage from the transmission is in neutral. It will be necessary to move the linkage slightly forwards and backwards to determine that it is in the correct position. f) Recheck that the adjustment tool is still correctly fitted to the gear lever, then tighten the clamp bolt on the gearchange linkage. g) Remove the adjustment tool from the gear lever. 75 Reconnect the lower cooling system hose to the radiator and connector pipe. 76 Reconnect the front exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold flange. 77 Reconnect the multiplug to the crankshaft position sensor. 78 Reconnect the speedometer drive cable at the engine end. 79 Refit the coolant drain plug, oil filter and oil drain plug. Refit the engine undershield. 80 Refit the front wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground. 81 Where removed, refit the bonnet. 82 Add coolant, engine oil, power steering fluid and gearbox oil as needed. 83 Reconnect the battery earth lead. 84 Carry out a final check to ensure that all cables and wiring looms are correctly routed, clear of any moving parts, and firmly secured. 85 Remember that, since the front suspension subframe and steering gear have been disturbed, the wheel alignment and steering angles must be checked fully and carefully as soon as possible, with any necessary adjustments being made. This operation is best carried out by an experienced mechanic, using proper checking equipment; the vehicle should therefore be taken to a Ford dealer or similarlyqualified person for attention. 86 Remember also that a road test must be carried out to enable the EEC module to collect data.

3B

3Be42

Engine overhaul - 1.8 litre engine

Escort

87 Refitting the engine/transmission is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following points. a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench

settings specified. b) Renew all circlips and self-locking nuts disturbed on removal. c) Use new cable-ties to secure wiring, etc. which had to be displaced on removal.

88 Manoeuvre the engine/transmission under the vehicle and carefully lower the vehicle into

position until the engine mounting studs engage in the suspension strut top mounting bracket. Refit the retaining nuts, finger-tight. 89 Attach the engine ieft-hand mounting to the sidemember and refit its two retaining bolts, finger-tight.

90 Refit the engine rear mounting/gearbox bracket to the gearbox and tighten the three retaining nuts, finger-tight. 91 Raise the front of the vehicle and securely support it.on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 92 Attach the gearbox mounting roll restrictor to the sidemember and refit its two retaining bolts, finger-tight. 93 Refit the engine front right-hand mounting brace to the engine mounting and tighten the two retaining nuts, finger-tight. 94 With the engine/gearbox unit in position and aligned and with all mounting/bracket assemblies refitted, check that none of the mountings are subject to stress before tightening all their securing nuts and bolts to the specified torque loading. 95 Using new circlips, refit both driveshafts. Ensure that the circlips are correctly engaged by pulling on each shaft. 96 Refit the lower suspension arm balljoints to the left and right-hand spindle carriers. 97 Refit the track (tie) rod balljoints to the left and right-hand steering arms, using new splitpins.

98 Refit each stabiliser link rod to its respective suspension strut. 99 With the gearbox in neutral, reconnect the ‘selector rod to the gearbox, tightening the clamp bolt finger-tight. 100 Refit the stabiliser rod to the gearbox, ensuring that it is free of any stress and that the flat washer is located between the rod and gearbox. 101 Lower the vehicle to allow easy access to the gearchange lever. 102 It is now necessary to adjust the gearchange linkage. Note that a special Ford tool 16-064 will be required in order to carry out the adjustment. This tool is simply a slotted ring which locks the gear lever in the neutral position during adjustment. If the tool is not available,

adjustment is still possible by proceeding on a trial-and-error basis, preferably with the help of an assistant to hold the gear lever in the neutral position. Proceed as follows: a) Remove the gearchange lever gaiter and bellows.

b) With the gear lever still in neutral, fit the Ford tool 16-064 over the gear lever and locate it in the recess in the lever retaining housing. Twist the tool clockwise to lock the lever in the neutral position. Take care during the adjustment not to move the gear lever or displace the adjustment tool. c) Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. d) With the gearbox in neutral, tighten the selector rod clamp bolt. e) Remove the adjustment tool from the gear lever and refit the lever gaiter and bellows. 103 Reconnect the speedometer drive cable to the gearbox. 104 On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, fit the condenser to the radiator support bracket and refit the radiator, complete with support bracket and shroud, to

the vehicle. 105 Reconnect connectors:

the

following

electrical

a) b) c) d)

Earth strap to transmission Alternator multiplug and cable Starter motor Alternator/starter motor wiring loom multiplugs (3 at radiator) e) Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor

multiplug 106 Reconnect the radiator lower hose to the coolant distributor pipe. 107 On vehicles equipped with — air conditioning, refit the conditioning dehydrator and its mounting bracket. 108 Refer to Chapter 6 and, where fitted, refit the power steering pump. 109 On vehicles equipped with air conditioning, refit the compressor, tightening its retaining bolts to the specified torque setting (see Chapter 6). Reconnect the multiplug to the magnetic clutch of the compressor

and

refit

and

tension

the

compressor drivebelt (see Chapter 6). 110 Where fitted, refit the auxiliary drivebelt cover. 111 Reconnect the front exhaust pipe to the rear pipe, supporting it at the turbocharger end. 112 If not already done, refit the coolant and

120 Reconnect the fuel return line to the fuel injection pump.

121 Reconnect the following cooling system hoses to the thermostat housing: a) From the expansion tank upper outlet b) From the radiator upper connection _ 122 Reconnect the following electrical connectors:

a) Reversing light switch b) Air conditioning coolant temperature sensor (where fitted) c) Oil pressure switch d) Cooling fan motor e) Fuel heater multiplug f) Fuel shut-off valve 123 Reconnect the throttle cable to its mounting bracket, retaining it with the clip, and reconnect the cable to the injection pump lever. 124 Reconnect the pipe to the vacuum pump, tightening the union bolt to the specified torque setting (see Chapter 6). 125 Reconnect the following electrical connectors:

a) Fuel lever position sensor (FLVR) multiplug b) Cold running solenoid switch muitiplug c) Partial load solenoid valve multiplug d) Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor multiplug e) Temperature gauge sender unit multiplug f) Glow plug feed 126 Ensure that all cables and wiring looms are correctly routed, clear of any moving parts, and firmly secured. 127 Refit the coolant hoses to the bottom of the expansion tank and the cylinder head. 128 Ensure that all other coolant hoses are properly connected. 129 Refer to Chapter 4, Part B, and refit the

charge air cooler. 130 Refit the rubber elbow to the turbocharger inlet and refit the air cleaner casing, referring to Chapter 4, Part B.

131 Where removed, refit the bonnet. 132 Add coolant, engine oil, power steering fluid and gearbox oil as needed. 133 Reconnect the battery earth lead.

oil drain plugs. 113 Refit the front wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground. 114 Refit the front exhaust pipe to the turbocharger. 115 Reattach the clutch cable to the clutch

lever. 116 Reconnect the heater hose to the cylinder head and the coolant hose to the oil cooler. 117 Reconnect the vacuum hose to the EGR valve. 118 On vehicles equipped with power steering, refit the fluid reservoir to its mounting and reconnect the fluid return hose. 119 Move to the front of the fuel heater and reconnect the quick-release coupling of the fuel feed pipe.

30 Engine-initial start-up after overhaul

& ae S

The operations are as described in Section 32, Chapter 3, Part A. The fuel system can be primed, and air bled out (as much as possible) as described in Chapter 4, Part B.

31 Compression test é description and interpretation — Refer to Section 33, Chapter 3, Part A, and the Specifications of this Chapter.

4Ae1

Chapter 4 Part A: Fuel and exhaust systems - 1.6 litre engine Contents Al Cleaner - element renewal ......:...........cccccuuwecveet 2 Bosch injection pump - checking and adjustment ................ 7 CAV RotoDiesel injection pump - checking and adjustment ...... ...8

Bemomnvetein = INSpection

Fuel Fuel Fuel Fuel Fuel

Pe Fuel Fuel Fuel

............0..cevccunvcuveness 18

filter assembly - removal and refitting ..............000000. 4 filter - draining and element renewal ..............00--000e 3 injection pump - removal and refitting .................0.. 1M injection pump timing - checking and adjustment ........... 10 injectors - removal, testing and refitting ................0.. 13

General information and precautions ..............00ccccceeeee 1 Injection pipes - removal and refitting ...............ccceeeeee 12 Manifolds - removal and refitting ..... 0.00. ..... cceee eeeeeuee 17 Maximum speed - checking and adjustment .................... 9 Throttle cable - removal and refitting’......... 0.00.00 ecu eceee 15

Degrees of difficulty | Easy, suitable for “novice with little experience

< xS

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

ME A CORANY 5!chu Wahi a imv.v side Gea Rees RET ee 5 system econtamination i... .u'es eb assume asd ne a's « Swe Yew’: 6 shut-off solenoid - removal and refitting................... 14 tank - removal and refitting ..........cccccecscucccuvecue 16

xxX | Fairly difficutt, ~

Difficult, suitable for

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

sxs xs

Very difficult, suitable for expert DIY or professional

Specifications ‘General System type _ Firing order

Glow plug type Air filter element type Fuel filter types: Bosch: Early type (separate element) Later type (“spin-on” cartridge) CAV RotoDiesel

Rear mounted fuel tank, combined lift and injection pump, indirect injection 1-3-4-2(No. 1 at pulley end) Champion CH79 Champion U515

N/A Champion L111 Champion L131 or L137

Fuel Fuel type Fuel capacity ~

Commercial diesel fuel for road vehicles (DERV) 34 to 50 litres (7.5 to 11.0 gallons) according to model

Injection pump Make and type Rotation (viewed from crankshaft pulley end) Drive

Bosch VE or CAV RotoDiesel Clockwise

By gear from crankshaft

Injectors (Bosch) Type Opening pressure Back leakage time (from 125 to 100 bar/1813 to 1450 Ibf/in’)

Needle seat leakage

Pintle

143 + 7 bar (2074 + 102 Ibf/in2) More than 5 seconds No visible droplets after 10 seconds at 10 bar (145 Ibf/in’) below opening pressure

Injectors (CAV) Type Opening pressure Back leakage time (from 100 to 70 bar/1450 to 1015 Ibf/in?) Needle seat leakage

Pintle 120 + 6 bar (1740 + 87 Ibf/in?) More than 5 seconds Holds 100 bar (1450 Ibf/in? for 10 seconds)

Adjustment data Idle speed . Maximum no load speed Deceleration time (no load at idle) Injection pump timing: Bosch

880 + 50 rpm 5350 + 50 rom 5 seconds maximum 0.92 + 0.01 mm at TDC 1.40 + 0.07 mm at TDC

4Ae2

Fuel and exhaust systems - 1.6 litre engine

Torque wrench settings

Nm

Fuel injection pump ~ Pump :to timing Gases. 26 0 Ae. Geena es Pump: bracket: to"block 9 jeu... fests

xs DIY mechanic

»

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

sxs

oN

Very difficult, suitable for expert DIY

or professional

Specifications General System type

12 V, negative earth

Battery Rating - cold cranking/reserve capacity .......

500 A/75 RC, 590 A/90 RC, 600 A/110 RC or 650 A/130 RC, depending on year and model

Starter motor MPIC

TCIM

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Bosch 1.7 kW short frame, Bosch DW (1.8 kW), Bosch EV (2.2 kW), or Lucas/Magneti Marelli M80R (1.8 kW) 8.0 mm length

32.8 mm diameter 0.3 mm

Note: Where a Magnetti Marelli M80R starter motor is fitted, note that these are simply renamed Lucas units. All procedures and specifications are exactly the same as those for Lucas M80R starter motors.

Torque wrench settings

Nm

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When investigating complaints of difficult starting for someone else, make sure that the correct starting procedure is understood and

is being followed. Some drivers are unaware The majority of starting problems on small

diesel engines are electrical in origin. The mechanic who is familiar with petrol engines but less so with diesel may be inclined to view the diesel’s injectors and pump in the same light as the spark plugs and distributor, but

this is generally a mistake.

of the significance of the preheating warning light - many modern engines are sufficiently forgiving for this not to matter in mild weather, but with the onset of winter problems begin. As a rule of thumb, if the engine is difficult to start but runs well when it has finally got going, the problem is electrical (battery, starter motor or preheating system). If poor

performance is combined with difficult starting, the problem is likely to be in the fuel system. The low pressure (Supply) side of the fuel system should be checked before suspecting the injectors and injection pump. Normally the pump is the last item to suspect, since unless it has been tampered with there is no reason for it to be at fault. The following table lists various possible causes of faults. Further discussion of some faults will be found in the Sections indicated.

7°2

Fault diagnosis SSS

2

Fault diagnosis - symptoms and reasons

Engine turns but will not start (cold) |] |_] || (_}

Incorrect use of preheating system (Chapter 5) Preheating system fault (Chapter 5) Fuel waxing (in very cold weather) (Section 5) Overfuelling or cold start advance mechanism defective (Chapter 4)

Engine turns but will not start (hot or cold) (] Low cranking speed (see below) Poor compression (Section 3) |_| No fuel in tank _] Air in fuel system (Section 4) J Fuel feed restriction (Section 5) Fuel contaminated (Chapter 4) Stop solenoid defective (Section 17) Major mechanical failure (Chapter 3) Injection pump internal fault (Chapter 4)

Overheating (Section 15) Injector pipe(s) wrongly connected or wrong type (Chapter 4) Valve timing incorrect (Chapter 3) Injector(s) faulty or wrong type (Chapter 4) Injection pump timing incorrect (Chapter 4) DOOUUC Injection pump faulty or wrong type (Chapter 4)

Lack of power (Section 6) LJ Accelerator linkage not moving through full travel (cable slack or pedal obstructed) (Chapter 4) Injection pump control linkages sticking or maladjusted (Chapter 4) Air cleaner dirty (Chapter 2) Blockage in induction system (Chapter 4) Air in fuel system (Section 4) Fuel feed restriction (Section 5) Valve timing incorrect (Chapter 3) Injection pump timing incorrect (Chapter 4) Blockage in exhaust system Turbo boost pressure inadequate, when applicable (Section 7)

hl if ma ow cranking speed IL] Inadequate battery capacity (Chapter 2) Incorrect grade of oil (Lubricants, fluids and capacities) High resistance in starter motor circuit (Chapter 5) Le Starter motor internal fault (Chapter 5)

mingine is difficult to start Incorrect starting procedure Battery or starter motor fault (Chapters 2 and 5) Preheating system fault (Chapter 5) LI Air in fuel system (Section 4) [ Fuel feed restriction (Section 5) Poor compression (Section 3) Valve clearances incorrect (Chapter 3) Valves sticking (Chapter 3) Blockage in exhaust system JL Valve timing incorrect (Chapter 3) Injector(s) faulty (Chapter 4) Injection pump timing incorrect (Chapter 4) OO Injection pump internal fault (Chapter 4)

mrngine starts but stops again

JU

Fuel very low in tank Air in fuel system (Section 4)

Idle adjustment incorrect (Chapter 2) Fuel feed restriction (Section 5) Fuel return restriction (Chapter 4) Air cleaner dirty (Chapter 2) Blockage in induction system (Chapter 4) Blockage in exhaust system Injector(s) faulty (Chapter 4) UUOUUDO

Engine will not stop when switched off |] Stop solenoid defective (Section 17)

Misfiring/rough idle |)

Air cleaner dirty (Chapter 2) Blockage in induction system (Chapter 4) LICAir in fuel system (Section 4) Fuel feed restriction (Section 5) LIf Valve clearances incorrect (Chapter 3) Valve(s) sticking (Chapter 3) Valve spring(s) weak or broken (Chapter 3) Poor compression (Section 3) LJLICI

Valve clearances incorrect (Chapter 3) Poor compression (Section 3) Injector(s) faulty or wrong type (Chapter 4) Injection pump faulty (Chapter 4) UOODOODODOODOOODOD |

uel consumption excessive (Section 8)'

External leakage Fuel passing into sump (Section 9) Air cleaner dirty (Chapter 2) Blockage in induction system (Chapter 4) Valve clearances incorrect (Chapter 3) Valve(s) sticking (Chapter 3) Valve spring(s) weak (Chapter 3) Poor compression (Section 3) Valve timing incorrect (Chapter 3) Injection pump timing incorrect (Chapter 4) Injector(s) faulty or wrong type (Chapter 4) WUUOUOUOUOOO DE Injection pump faulty (Chapter 4)

Engine knocks (Section 10) ] J

Air in fuel system (Section 4) Fuel grade incorrect or quality poor (Lubricants, fluids and

capacities)

.

Injector(s) faulty or wrong type (Section 10) Valve spring(s) weak or broken (Chapter 3) Valve(s) sticking (Chapter 3) Valve MIUjUIC) clearances incorrect (Chapter 3) Valve timing incorrect (Chapter 3) Injection pump timing incorrect (Chapter 4) Piston protrusion excessive/head gasket thickness inadequate } (after repair) (Chapter 3) Valve recess incorrect (after repair) (Chapter 3) Piston rings broken or worn (Chapter 3) Pistons and/or bores worn (Chapter 3) ; Crankshaft bearings worn or damaged (Chapter 3) Small-end bearings worn (Chapter 3) Camshaft worn (Chapter 3) OOOO

lack smoke in exhaust (Section 11) |}

Air cleaner dirty (Chapter 2)

IO Blockage in induction system (Chapter 4) |_|

Valve clearances incorrect (Chapter 3)

Fault diagnosis

(Poor compression (Section 3) (Turbo boost pressure inadequate, when applicable (Section 7)

O) Blockage in exhaust system = Valve timing incorrect (Chapter 3)

Injector(s) faulty or wrong type (Chapter 4) C1)Injection pump timing incorrect (Chapter 4)

L] Injection pump faulty (Chapter 4) |] Imminent seizure (piston pick-up)

Soins pressure excessive (oil being blown ou Blockage in crankcase ventilation system (Chapter 2) Leakage in vacuum pump or exhauster (Chapter 6) Piston rings broken or sticking (Chapter 3) Pistons or bores worn (Chapter 3)

cr Injection pump faulty (Chapter 4)

Blue or white smoke in exhaust (Section 11) _ Engine oil incorrect grade or poor quality (Lubricants, fluids and

capacities) Glow plug(s) defective, or controller faulty (smoke at start-up only) (Chapter 5) Air cleaner dirty(Chapter 2) Blockage in induction system (Chapter 4) Valve timing incorrect (Chapter 3) Injection pump timing incorrect (Chapter 4) Injector(s) defective, or heat shields damaged or missing (Chapter 4) Engine running too cool Oil entering via valve stems (Section 12) Poor compression (Section 3) Head gasket blown (Chapter 3) Piston rings broken or worn (Chapter 3) ooooo OOOOOO oO Pistons and/or bores worn (Chapter 3)

Oil consumption excessive (Section 13) External leakage (standing or running) New engine not yet run-in Engine oil incorréct grade or poor quality (Lubricants, fluids and capacities) Oil level too high (Chapter 2) Crankcase ventilation system obstructed (Chapter 2) Oil leaking from oil feed pipe into fuel feed pipe (Chapter 4)

Oil leakage from ancillary component (vacuum pump etc.) (Chapter 6) Oil leaking into coolant (Chapter 4) Oil leaking into injection pump (Chapter 4) Air cleaner dirty (Chapter 2) Blockage in induction system (Chapter 4) Cylinder bores glazed (Section 14) Piston rings broken or worn (Chapter 3) Pistons and/or bores worn (Chapter 3) Valve stems or guides worn (Chapter 3) Valve stem oil seals worn (Chapter 3) boon OOOOoOoDooo ooo

=

® =a «& ~~ 9 =.9°3 = = Coolant leakage (Chapter 2) Engine oil level too high (Chapter 2) Electric cooling fan malfunctioning (Chapter 5) Coolant pump defective (Chapter 3) Radiator clogged externally Radiator clogged internally Coolant hoses blocked or collapsed Coolant reservoir pressure cap defective or incorrect Coolant thermostat defective or incorrect (Chapter 3) Thermostat missing (Chapter 3) Air cleaner dirty (Chapter 2) Blockage in induction system (Chapter 4) Blockage in exhaust system

Head gasket blown (Chapter 3) Cylinder head cracked or warped (Chapter 3) Valve timing incorrect (Chapter 3) Injection pump timing incorrect (over-advanced) (Chapter 4) Injector(s) faulty or wrong type (Chapter 4) booooooOnoboonoo HOD

73

Head gasket blown (Chapter 3) OUOUOUO0

Erratic running |] Operating temperature incorrect Accelerator linkage maladjusted or sticking (Chapter 4) Air cleaner dirty (Chapter 2) Blockage in induction system (Chapter 4) Air in fuel system (Section 4) Injector pipe(s) wrongly connected or wrong ye (Chapter 4) Fuel feed restriction (Section 5) Fuel return restriction Valve clearances incorrect (Chapter 3) Valve(s) sticking (Chapter 3) Valve spring(s) broken or weak (Chapter 3) Valve timing incorrect (Chapter 3) Poor compression (Section 3) Injector(s) faulty or wrong type (Chapter 4) Injection pump mountings loose (Chapter 4) Injection pump timing incorrect (Chapter 4) ett] te et CL Oe OR Injection pump faulty (Chapter 4)

Vibration || Accelerator linkage sticking (Chapter 4) (_] Engine mountings loose or worn (Chapter 3) L] Cooling fan damaged or loose L_] Crankshaft pulley/damper damaged or loose (Chapter 3) L] Injector pipe(s) wrongly connected or wrong type (Chapter 4) |_| Valve(s) sticking (Chapter 3) Flywheel or (when applicable) flywheel housing loose (Chapter 3) LI Poor (uneven) compression (Section 3)

ow oil pressure

rF

Oil level low (Chapter 2)

HOUOil grade or quality incorrect (Lubricants, fluids and capacities) Oil filter clogged (Chapter 2) Overheating (Section 15) Oil contaminated (Section 16) A) Gauge or warning light sender inaccurate (Chapter 5) Oil pump pick-up strainer clogged (Chapter 3) Oil pump suction pipe loose or cracked (Chapter 3) Oil pressure relief valve defective or stuck open (Chapter 3) Oil pump worn (Chapter 3) et BL Crankshaft bearings worn (Chapter 3)

= igh oil pressure Oil grade or quality incorrect (Lubricants, fluids and capacities) || Gauge inaccurate (| Oil pressure relief valve stuck shut (Chapter 3)

Injector pipe(s) break or split repeatedly Missing or wrongly located clamps (Chapter 4) Wrong type or length of pipe (Chapter 4) Faulty injector (Chapter 4) Faulty delivery valve (Chapter 4)

7@4

Fault diagnosis

=3 Se

i

C

ee Vie?

Poor compression

1 Poor compression may give rise to a number of faults, including difficult starting, loss of power, misfiring or uneven running and smoke in the exhaust. 2 Before looking for mechanical reasons for compression loss, check that’the problem is not on the induction side. A dirty air cleaner or some other blockage in the induction system can restrict air inlet to the point where compression suffers. 3 Mechanical reasons for low compression include : a) Incorrect valve clearances

b) Sticking valves c) Weak or broken valve springs d) Incorrect valve timing e) Worn or burnt valve heads and seats f) Worn valve stems and guides’

g) h) J) k)

Head gasket blown Piston rings broken or sticking Pistons or bores worn Head gasket thickness incorrect (after rebuild) 4 Compression loss on one cylinder alone can be due to a defective or.badly seated glow plug, or a leaking injector sealing washer. Some engines also have a cylinder head plug for the insertion of a dial test indicator probe when determining TDC and this should not be overlooked. 5 Compression loss on two adjacent cylinders is almost certainly due to the head gasket blowing between them. Sometimes the fault will be corrected by renewing the gasket but a blown gasket can also be an indication that the cylinder head itself is warped. Always check the head mating face for distortion when renewing the gasket. On wet liner engines also check liner protrusion.

Compression test 6 A compression tester specifically intended for diesel engines must be used, because of the higher pressures involved - see Chapter 3. The tester is connected to an adapter which screws into the glow plug or injector hole.

asa

ye |