Haynes Fiat 131 Owners Workshop Manual 0856968706, 9780856968709

Citation preview

FIAT Sel Willesticela

1975 to February 1982 . All models 1297 cc 0 1801 cc 5 1585 cc 2 1995 cc

ly 5 j= 5/

Terry Davey)

Cxawes)

_

Digitized by the Internet Archive In 2022 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

httos://archive.org/details/fiat131 ownerswor0000hayn

FIAT 131 Owners Workshop Manual by J.H.Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and

Colin

Barge

Models covered

UK FIAT 131 Mirafiori, L, CL and Supermirafiori, 1297cc and 1301cc FIAT 131 Mirafiori, CL, Special and Supermirafiori, 1585cc FIAT 131 Mirafiori Sport, 1995cc Saloon, Estate and Panorama models

USA FIAT 131 and Brava FIAT Brava

Sedan, Coupe and Station Wagon, 107.13 cu in (1756cc) Sedan, Coupe and Station Wagon, 121.74 cu in (1995cc)

Does not cover diesel engined models

ISBN

0 85696 870 6

©Haynes Publishing Group 1977, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1984 All rights reserved, No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in

any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in England

(310 -3K4)

A fy ea

ry, ALN

ACCESSORIES

ASSOCIATION MEMBER

HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET distributed in the USA by

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS 861 LAWRENCE DRIVE NEWBURY PARK CALIFORNIA 91320 USA

INC

BA22 7JJ ENGLAND

—sscve

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to FIAT UK Limited for the supply of technical information and certain illustrations, and to Crouch’s Garage at Ilminster, Somerset, for their co-operation in supplying information. Thanks are also due to Castrol Limited who supplied lubrication data, and to the Champion Sparking Plug Company who supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions. The bodywork repair photographs used in this manual were provided by Holt Lloyd Limited who supply ‘Turtle Wax’, ‘Dupli-color Holts’

About

and other Holts range products. Lastly, a special thanks to all those people at Sparkford and Yeovil who helped in the production of this manual. Particularly, Brian Horsfall who carried out the mechanical work and Les Brazier who took the photographs; Stanley Randolph planned the layout of each page and John Rose edited the text. lan Coomber supplied additional information on later models and wrote the Supplement, which was edited by Paul Hansford.

this manual

[ts aim The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs the garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

/ts arrangement The manual is divided into thirteen Chapters, each covering logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and the Sections paragraphs (or sub-sections), with decimal numbers following from the Section they are in, eg 5.1,5.2, 5.3 etc.

Introduction

to the

a into into on

of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter — eg Fig. 6.4 is the fourth drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs carry the same number (either individually or in related groups) as the Section or sub-section to which they relate. There is an alphabetical index at the, back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. Each Chapter is also preceded by its own individual contents list.

References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver’s seat facing forwards. Unless otherwise stated, nuts and bolts are removed by turning anti-clockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise. Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these when notified are incorporated into Our manuals at the earliest opportunity. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Fiat 131

The FIAT 131 is available either as a two or four door saloon, or as a five door estate car. Furthermore the purchaser can choose between the basic and ‘Special’ versions of each model. Externally the UK and USA models appear similar but the main difference lies in the engine compartment.

USA models are fitted with a double overhead camshaft

(dohc)

engine which is a development of the well proven FIAT 124 Sport engine. UK models were originally available with the 1300 or 1600 overhead valve (ohv) engine which was developed from the popular FIAT 124 engine. Later 1300 and 1600 variants are fitted with a double

overhead camshaft

It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms

(dohc) engine. A two litre dohc engined model

was also added to the range in 1978, known as the ‘Sport’. The two litre engine is a direct descendant of the power unit of the FIAT 132. When the FIAT 131 was introduced to the UK market in 1975, only a 4-speed manual gearbox was available. In 1976, however, a 5-speed gearbox became the standard fitting on 1600 models and later to all models in the range. The engine and gearbox are mounted in-line in the traditional manner, with a propeller shaft to take the drive to the rear axle. This layout is extremely practical and, combined with its good handling characteristics, roomy interior and ample luggage capacity, makes the Mirafiori a vehicle well worth looking after.

Page

Acknowledgements

2

About this manual

2

PS

2

ction to the FIAT 131

Use of English

6

Buying spare parts

7

Tools and working facilities

8

Jacking and towing

10

Recommended lubricants and fluids

11

Routine maintenance

12

Chapter 1

Part A: Overhead valve engine

14

Chapter 1

Part B: Twin overhead camshaft engine

36

Chapter 2

Cooling system

51

Chapter 3

Carburation: fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

58

Chapter 4

Ignition system

79

Chapter5

Clutch

87

Chapter 6

Part A: Manual transmission

92

Chapter 6

Part B: Automatic transmission

104

Chapter 7

Propeller shaft

112

Chapter 8

Rear axle

116

Chapter 9

Braking system

121

Chapter 10

Electrical system

136

Chapter

Suspension and steering

159

Bodywork and fittings

172

11

Chapter 12

eee a Chapter 13

Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

185

Te Conversion factors ee

231

Index

233

2214 LEL

MOEOOOL

[B1I9EdS 2383S]

(uMmoys |apoW 400P pH 9M) [eI9Eedg OEM

LEL LWIS OU

Use of English As this book has been written in England, it uses the appropriate English component names, phrases, and spelling. Some of these differ from those used in America. Normally, these cause no difficulty, but to make sure, a glossary is printed below. In ordering spare parts remember the

parts list will probably use these words:

Glossary English

American

English

American

Aerial Accelerator

Antenna

Layshaft (of gearbox)

Counter shaft

Gas pedal

Leading shoe (of brake)

Primary shoe

Alternator

Generator (AC)

Locks

Anti-roll bar

Stabiliser or sway bar

Motorway

Latches Freeway, turnpike etc.

Battery Bodywork

Energizer Sheet metal

Number plate Paraffin

Licence plate Kerosene

Bonnet (engine cover)

Hood

Petrol

Gasoline

Boot lid Boot (luggage compartment) Bottom gear Bulkhead

Trunk lid Trunk 1st gear Firewall

Petrol tank ‘Pinking’ Propeller shaft Quarter light

Gas tank ‘Pinging’ Driveshaft Quarter window

Camfollower or tappet

Valve lifter or tappet

Retread

Recap

Carburettor Catch Choke/venturi Circlip Clearance Crownwheel Disc (brake) Drop arm

Carburetor Latch Barrel Snap ring Lash Ring gear (of differential) Rotor/disk Pitman arm

Reverse Rocker cover Roof rack Saloon Seized Side indicator lights Side light Silencer

Back-up Valve cover Car-top carrier Sedan Frozen Side marker lights Parking light Muffler

Drop head coupe

Convertible

Spanner

Wrench

Dynamo Earth (electrical) Engineer's blue Estate car Exhaust manifold Fast back (Coupe) Fault finding/diagnosis

Generator (DC) Ground Prussion blue Station wagon Header Hard top Trouble shooting

Sill panel (beneath doors) Split cotter (for valve spring cap) Split pin Steering arm Sump Tab washer Tailgate

Rocker panel Lock (for valve spring retainer) Cotter pin Spindle arm Oil pan Tang; lock Liftgate

Float chamber Free-play

Float bowl Lash

Tappet Thrust bearing

Valve lifter Throw-out bearing

Freewheel

Coast

Gudgeon pin

Top gear

High

Piston pin or wrist pin

Trackrod (of steering)

Gearchange Gearbox Halfshaft

Tie-rod (or connecting rod)

Shift Transmission Axle-shaft

Trailing shoe (of brake) Transmission Tyre

Handbrake Hood Hot spot

Secondary shoe Whole drive line Tire

Parking brake Soft top Heat riser

Van Vice Wheel nut

Indicator

Panel wagon/van Vise Lug nut

Turn signal

Interior light

Windscreen

Dome lamp

Windshield

Wing/mudguard

Fender

Miscellaneous points An “Oil seal” is fitted to components lubricated by grease! A “Damper’’ is a ‘Shock absorber’, it damps out bouncing, and absorbs shocks of bump impact. Both names are correct, and both are used haphazardly.

Note that British drum brakes are different from the Bendix type that is common in America, so different descriptive names result. The shoe

end furthest from the hydraulic wheel cylinder is on a pivot; interconnection between the shoes as on Bendix brakes is most uncommon.

Therefore the phrase “Primary” or “Secondary” shoe does not apply. A shoe is said to be Leading or Trailing. A ‘‘Leading’’ shoe is one on which a point on the drum, as it rotates forward, reaches the shoe at the end worked by the hydraulic cylinder before the anchor end. The opposite is a trailing shoe, and this one has no self servo from the wrapping effect of the rotating drum.

Buying Spare parts and vehicle identification

numbers

Buying spare parts

Other garages and accessory shops - These are often very good

Spare parts can be obtained from many sources, for example: FIAT garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare parts is as follows: Officially appointed FIAT garages - This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your car and otherwise not generally available

(eg. complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges interior trim etc). It is also the only place you should buy your parts if your car is still under warranty; non-FIAT components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the partsman your car’s engine

number, chassis number and number for spares, and if possible take the old part along for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on a factory exchange scheme - any parts returned

should always be clean! It obviously make good sense to go to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are the best equipped to supply you. They will also be able to provide their own Fiat service manual for your car should you require one.

places to buy material and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg. oil filters, spark plugs, fan belts, oils and grease, touch-up paint, filler paste etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have

convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors - Good factors will stock all of the more important components which wear out relatively quickly (eg. clutch components, pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake cylinders/pipes/hoses/seals/ shoes and pads, etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis - this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers As already stated, when ordering new parts it is essential that the storeman has full information about your particular model of FIAT. The bodyshell type and number is stamped on the right-hand side panel of the engine compartment. The engine type and number is stamped on the cylinder block just

above the oil filter extension housing. Furthermore, a specification plate is fitted to the front right-hand side body panel and gives details of the following: Homologation reference number, version code, chassis type, number for spares, and

paintwork colour code.

A: Body type and number stamped right-hand side panel of engine

compartment

Location of vehicle identification plates

Gow

MADE IN

131A.000 000003

©

VERSIONE|

ieee

ms

AUTOTELAIO-CHASSIS

[1A +06890/ox ©

|ENGINE

MOTORE

137*.000_|

neron spares UUUOZU/ amanrunerent”2wecie N°colore

Body

B: Engine type and number stamped on cylinder block above oil filter unit

color

carrozzeria

A5§

N°

C: Specification plate (typicai) fitted to front right-hand side body panel

Tools and working facilities Introduction A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-ityourself. However, provided that the tools purchased are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Specia/. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grow, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhaul! tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-ityourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul Procedures and will add tools from the Specia/ category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use these tools will be put to. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools available from the publishers of this manual.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken.

We recommend

the purchase of

combination spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner.

Combination spanners - 8,9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 19mm Box spanners - 8, 12, 14, (long) and 21 mm Adjustable spanner - 9 inch Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool

Set of feeler gauges

Plug/points file Brake bleed nipple spanner

Screwdriver - 4 in long x % in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 4 in long x % in dia (cross blade) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw, junior Tyre pump

Tyre pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can

Fine emery cloth (1 sheet) Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

Repair and overhaul tool kit These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the Maintenance and minor repair \ist. |Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various Grives are included

in the set. We recommend

the % in square-drive

type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque spanners. If you

cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box wrenches are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Special list. Sockets (or box spanners) te cover range in previous list, and % in

square drive 32 mm

(1% in AF) and 44mm

Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets)

Torque wrench (for use with sockets) Mole wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer

Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber

Screwdriver - 6 in long x 5/16 in dia (flat blade)

Screwdriver - 2 in long x 5/16 in square (flat blade) Screwdriver - 1% in long x % in dia (cross blade) Screwdriver - 3 in long x 1/8 in dia (electricians) Pliers - electricians side cutters Pliers - needle nosed

Pliers - circlip (internal and external) Cold chisel - % inch Scriber (this can be made by grinding the end of a broken hacksaw

blade) Scraper (this can be madg by flattening and sharpening one end of

a piece of copper pipe) Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw Valve grinding tool

Stee/ rule/straight edge Allen keys Selection of files

.

Wire brush (large) Axle-stands Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together

with friends (or a motorists’ club) to make a joint purchase, or borrow-

ing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist.

The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools Produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturers’ special tool is given. However, sometimes, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed you will have to entrust the work to a franchised garage. Valve spring compressor (where applicable) Piston ring compressor Balljoint separator

Universal hub/bearing puller /mpact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing light

Tools and working facilities

9

Dwell angle meter/tachometer

Jaw gap (in)

Universal electrical multi-meter

0.591

15mm

Cylinder compression gauge Lifting tackle (photo)

0.600 0.625

5/16 in Whitworth; 5/8 in AF

Trolley jack

0.630

16 mm

Light with extension lead

0.669

17mm

;

Spanner size

3/8 in BSF

Buying tools

0.709

0.686

11/16in AF

For practically all tools, a tool dealer is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop

0.710 0.748 0.750 0.813

3/8 in Whitworth; 7/16 in BSF 19mm % in AF 13/16 in AF

18 mm

around.

0.820

7/16 in Whitworth; % in BSF

Remember, you don’t have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap

0.866 0.875

22 mm 7/8 in AF

tools. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase. ;

0.920 0.937 0.945 1.000

% in Whitworth; 9/16 in BSF 15/16 in AF 24 mm 1 in AF

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the

tools in a clean dirt, grease and the tools away. used. A simple

serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting Never leave them lying around after they have been tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items

“such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer

1.010

9/16 in Whitworth; 5/8 in BSF

1.024

26 mm

1.063 1.100 1.125 1.181

1.1/16 in AF; 27 mm 5/8 in Whitworth; 11/16 in BSF 1.1/8 in AF 30 mm

1.200 1.250 1.260 1.300

11/16 in Whitworth; % in BSF 1% in AF 32 mm % in Whitworth; 7/8 in BSF 1.5/16 in AF

heads inevitably

1.313

become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades

1.390

13/16 in Whitworth; 15/16 in BSF

from time to time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

1.417 1.438

36 mm 1.7/16 in AF

1.480

7/8 in Whitworth; 1 in BSF

Working facilities

1.500

1% in AF

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be

1.575 1.614 1.625 1.670 1.688 1.811

40 mm; 15/16 in Whitworth 41 mm 1.5/8 in AF 1 in Whitworth; 1.1/8 in BSF 1.11/16 in AF 46 mm

done under the cover of a roof.

1.813

13/16 in AF

Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean flat

1.860

1.1/8 in Whitworth; 1% in BSF

workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100

1.875 1.969

mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants,

2.000 2.050 2.165 2.362

1.7/8 in AF 50 mm 2 in AF

cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on which become necessary. Another itém which may be required, and which has a much more

1% in Whitworth; 1.3/8 in BSF

55 mm 60 mm

general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least

5/16 in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as wing mirrors and reversing lights. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

Jaw gap (in)

Spanner size

0.250 0.276 0.313 0.315

0.472 0.500

% in AF 7mm 5/16in AF 8 mm 11/32 in AF; 1/8 in Whitworth 9mm 3/8 in AF 10 mm 11mm 7/16 in AF 3/16 in Whitworth; % in BSF 12 mm % in AF

0.512

13 mm

0.344 0.354 0.375 0.394 0.433 0.438

0.445

0.525

% in Whitworth; 5/16 in BSF

0.551

14mm

0.562

9/16 in AF

: A Haltrac hoist and gantry in use during a typical engine removal

Aenea

Jacking and Towing Jacking

Towing

The jack supplied with the car tool kit should only be used for changing a roadwhee!. Whenever repair or overhaul operations are being carried out, jack the car in the following positions and always

Towing hooks are fitted to the front and rear of the car and any towing hooks or ropes should always be*attached to these points only. On cars fitted with automatic transmission the car may be towed

supplement the jack with axle stands placed under the body side frame:

with the gear selector in the N (neutral) position a distance of 30

Raising front end: place the jack under the front crossmember. Raising the rear end: place the jack under the tubular section of the axle casing as close to the trailing arm as possible.

Using the jack supplied with the car to raise the road wheel clear of the ground (the arrow indicates the jacking point

location)

miles at a speed not exceeding 30 mph

(50 kph). If the car is to be

towed over long distances or the transmission is faulty, the car must be towed with either the rear wheels suspended off the ground or with the propeller shaft removed.

Raising the front of the car using a trolly jack placed under the front suspension crossmember. (The arrow shows the position

of a 1% in (3 cm) wooden packing block)

Raising the rear of the car using a trolly jack placed under the differential casing

11

Recommended

lubricants

and fluids

Component or system

Lubricant type or specification

Engine (1)

SAE 15W/40 multigrade engine oil

Manual gearbox (2) Automatic transmission (2)

Castrol recommendation

(Olio Fiat VS+ Supermultigrado)

Castrol GTX

SAE 80W/90 oil — not hypoid EP (Olio Fiat Tutela ZC 90)

Castrol GTX

Dexron type automatic transmission fluid

(Fiat Tutela GI/A) Rear axle (3): Standard

SAE 90 EP hypoid gear oi! (Olio Fiat

Tutela W/90 M) Limited slip differential

Castrol TQ Dexron (Q)

Castrol Hypoy B EP90

SAE 90 EP hypoid gear oil suitable

for limited slip differentials (Olio Fiat

Castrol Hypoy LS

Tutela W/90 DA)

Steering rack (4) Wheel bearings (5)

SAE 90 EP hypoid gear oil (Olio Fiat Tutela W/90 M)

Castrol Hypoy B EP90

Multi-purpose lithium based grease

Castrol LM grease

(Fiat Tutela MR 3) Propeller shaft splines(6)

Multi-purpose lithium based grease

Castrol MS3 grease

(Fiat Tutela MR 3)

Brake fluid reservoir (7)

Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS

116 DOT

3

and SAE J1703 (Fiat Tutela DOT 3)

Castrol Girling Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

Cooling system (8)

Ethylene Glycol based antifreeze, with inhibitors

(Fiat Paraflu 11)

Castrol Antifreeze

Note: The above are general recommendations only. Lubrication requirements vary from territory to territory and depend on vehicle usage. If in doubt, consult the operator’s handbook supplied with the vehicle, or your nearest dealer.

Routine maintenance Maintenance is essential in the first instance to ensure safety and in the second instance, it is desirable to achieve the best possible value in terms of performance, economy and reliability. Due to technological developments over the years, the need for periodic lubrication - oiling, greasing etc, has been drastically reduced and in some cases totally eliminated. This unfortunately has led some owners to think that because no such action is required the items no longer exist or will last for ever. This is a serious delusion. It therefore follows that the cheapest and simplest element of maintenance is visual examination. A minor defect can be spotted and rectified before it can develop into a major fault and possible roadside breakdown. In each of the maintenance instructions given below the figures in brackets refer to the Chapter/Section where further information on the particular service task can be found.

aperture. Top-up

Check

if required and refit the plug.

the rear axle oil level. Remove

the filler/level plug and

check that the oil is up to the lower edge of the plug hole. Top-up if required and refit the plug.

Check front wheel alignment. (11/14) Examine all steering linkage rods, joints and bushes wear or damage. Check tightness of steering box mounting bolts.

for signs of

Check the steering box oil level. Check adjustment of front wheel hub bearings. (11/10) Examine all nuts, bolts and shackles securing the suspension units, front and rear. Tighten if necessary. Examine the rubber bushes for signs of wear and play.

Inspect disc pads for wear. (9/3)

Check clutch free movement.

(5/2)

Lubricate door hinges and locks.

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

Every 12,000 miles (20,000 km) Check tyre pressures and inflate if necessary. (11/13) Check engine oil level and top-up if necessary. The car must be parked on level ground and when topping-up, use the same type and grade of oil as you normally use in the engine whenever possible. Check battery electrolyte level and top up if necessary. (10/4) Check the windscreen washer fluid level and top-up if necessary. In winter months, use a detergent additive containing an antifreeze. Do not use ordinary coolant antifreeze as it is harmful to your car's paintwork.

Check coolant level in expansion tank reservoir and top up if

Lubricate propeller shaft yoke sleeve. (7/1) Clean carburettor jets, float chamber and filter. (3/2 and 6)

Renew Check Check Renew

fuel line filter element (dohc engine only). (3/9) fast idle components (dohc engine only). (3/5) carburettor choke and throttle operations. (3/5) air cleaner element. (3/2)

Clean and check crankcase emission control equipment.

(3/16)

Check vacuum hoses and connections for security and condition. Check cooling system hoses for security and condition.

Renew spark plugs. (4/9)

necessary. (2/2) Check the brake fluid level and top-up if necessary. Wipe the top of the fluid reservoir clean before removal and do not allow any dirt particles to enter the reservoir. If necessary, top-up using only the specified fluid and avoid spillage of fluid. Refit cap and wipe any spilt fluid from surrounding body/components. Check operation of all lights, instruments and controls.

SS Every 24,000 miles (40,000 km)

— e EE e eee e Drain, flush and refill cooling system with new anti-freeze

solution. (2/2) Renew catalytic converter (Californian models only). (3/4) Check distributor and centrifugal advance mechanism. (4/6) Change activated carbon trap. (3/16) Check EGR valve and associate equipment. (3/16) Change gearbox and rear axle oil. Remove the drain and filler/

Every 6,000 miles (10,000 km) Check for oil leaks from engine, transmission, steering rack and rear axle. Serious leaks must be attended to. Change engine oil and oil filter. Oil must be drained (preferably when hot) into a suitable container for disposal. The old oil filter

may require the use of a chain wrench as shown (photo) to release it initially. Wet the new filter sealing ring with engine oil before screwing the new filter into position. Use only hand pressure (do not overtighten) and check for signs of oi! leaks around the filter seal when engine is restarted. Check that drain plug is securely refitted before topping-up with the correct grade and quantity of engine oil.

level plugs from the manual gearbox casing and the rear axle housing and drain the old oil into a container for disposal. Clean and refit each drain plug making sure it is secure, then top-up the oil levels with new oil of the correct grade to the specified level

(bottom of filler plug hole). Refit the filler plugs.

Change automatic transmission fluid where applicable. (6B/9) Renew timing belt. (1B/65) Check spark control modulation

device.

Check and clean starter motor commutator and brushes. (10/11)

Check and adjust valve clearances. (1A/52 or 1B/108) Check tension of drive belts. (2/5)

Clean and regap the spark plugs. (4/9) Check contact breaker points gap. (4/2)

Check ignition timing. (4/7) Check the manual gearbox oil level. The car must be level for this check. Unscrew and remove the filler/level plug (photo) and if

correct, the oil level should

be up to the lower edge of the plug

—_—— Every 36,000 miles (60,000 km) or 3 years, whichever occurs first

e eene ee sd Renew brake servo filter. (9/16) Renew all rubber seals and hoses in the braking system. (9/5, 9, 10, 14) Renew the brake fluid. (9/2)

Se RAE

Oil level dipstick dohe engine

The cooling system expansion tank. (The

arrow indicates the minimum

Location of the sump drain plug (B)

level)

Undoing the gearbox filler/level plug (4-speed manual gearbox shown)

Remove plug ‘A’ to check/top-up gearbox oil level. Remove plug ‘B’ to drain gearbox oil (5-speed manual gearbox shown)

The rear axle filler/level and drain plug A: Filler/level plug B: Drain plug

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Chapter 1 Part A: Overhead valve engine Contents

Big-end (connecting rod) bearings and main bearings - examination and renovation a ce a Camshaft, camshaft Dearne and ence

examination

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aad renovation

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