Haynes Datsun Cherry F-II Owners Workshop Manual 0856963682, 9780856963681

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EDINBURGH CITY LIBRARIES Reference Department q THIS BOOK MUST NOT BE REMOVED UNDER ANY PRETEXT FROM THE REFERENCE DEPARTMENT. INFRINGEMENT OF THIS RULE RENDERS THE OFFENDER LIABLE TO PROSECUTION.

Before leaving the Library readers must return the books to one of the attendants at the issue desk, or they will be held responsible for them.

Readers are required to take care of the books. Writing or drawigggwith pen or

pencil on any part of down the leaves, o them, will be

or turhing or mutilating serious damage.

THE REFERENCE DEPARTING TO STUDENTS,

Location.

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: Das

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AND IS NOT

Accession.

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Datsun Owners

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Workshop

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Manual

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by JH Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and M B Gilmour Models covered: Datsun Cherry (100A) F-II Saloon & Estate. 988 cc Datsun Cherry (120A) F-I| Coupe. 1171 cc Datsun F10 Sedan, Hatchback & Wagon. 85-24 cu in (1397 cc)

UK:

USA:

Does not cover automatic transmission models

ISBN

0 85696

368 2

© Haynes Publishing Group 1978, 1984, 1985 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any

information

storage

or

retrieval

system,

permission

without

copyright holder.

Printed in England

(368-812)

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes Publications, 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA ga

oa

from

the

ABCDI

A

I

ae

ee

WN

ASSOCIATION MEMBER

e ¢

in writing

Inc

LIBRARIES

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Nissan Motor Company Limited of Japan for the supply of technical information and certain illustrations. Castrol Limited provided lubrication details, and the Champion Sparking Plug Company provided the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions. The bodywork repair photographs used in this manual were provided by Lloyds Industries Limited who supply ‘Turtle Wax’, ‘Dupli-

color Holts’, and other Holts range products. Lastly special thanks are due to all of those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual; particularly, Martin Penny and Les Brazier who carried out the mechanical work and took the photographs respectively, John Austin who edited the text and Stanley Randolph for planning the layout of each page.

About this manual Its aim The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work

must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage),

provide information on routine maintenance

and servicing, and give a

logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage, and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The book has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence

so that even a novice can cope with complicated work. Such a person is the very one to buy a car needing repair yet be unable to afford garage costs.

The jobs are described assuming only normal spanners are available, and not special tools. However, a reasonable outfit of tools will be a worthwhile investment. Many special workshop tools produced by the makers merely speed the work, and in these cases guidance is given as to how to do the job wihout them, the oft quoted example being the use of a large hose clip to compress the piston rings for insertion in the cylinder. On the very few occasions the special tool is essential to prevent damage to components, then its use is described. Though it might be possible to borrow the tool such work may have to be entrusted to the official agent. To reduce labour costs a garage will often give cheaper repair by fitting a reconditioned assembly. The home mechanic can be helped by this book to diagnose the fault and make a repair using only a minor

spare part. The manufacturer's official workshop manuals are written for their

trained staff, and so assume special knowledge; therefore detail is left out. This book is written for the owner, and so goes into detail.

Using the manual The manual is divided into twelve Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections which are headed in bold type

between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of serially numbered paragraphs. There are two types of illustration: (1) Figures which are numbered according to Chapter and sequence of occurrence in that Chapter, (2)

Photographs which have a reference number on their caption. All photographs apply to the Chapter in which they occur so that the reference number pinpoints the pertinent Section and paragraph number. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. If it is necessary to refer to another Chapter the reference will be given in Chapter number, Section number and where necessary, paragraph number. Cross references given without use of the word ‘Chapter’ apply to Section and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter (eg; ‘see Section 8’ also means ‘in this Chapter’).

When the left or right side of the car is mentioned it is as if one is

seated in the driver's seat looking forward. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the informa tion in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

‘

Contents Chapter

Page

Acknowledgements

2

About this manual

2

Introduction to the Datsun F10

series

5

Quick reference general data

oc

I

5

SSS

ke

tel I el Ai A

cn

NE

obey a ee

8

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

9

Routine maintenance . al

Chapter 1 I

Engine en

Chapter 2

Cooling system

MTN

a

ad 12

a

ee

ana

eam

re, |. See ene

Lal. Ad. RT

Sle ea

a

15

ee

eee

ee 38

:

RS

arcana

I Sa

Cane” B 4TER

a

-ces Le

E

Tools and working facilities ee EE

SAS RR

a aR

cn Fv SEE

eee

ae am

Se 43

Carburation; fuel, exhaust and emission control systems Chapter 3 ee a eee ee Chapter 4

le

Chapter 5

74

Ignition system

ca

lg fic"

ANP

oS

cn

Ne OTE 83

Clutch

I 91

Transmission Chapter 6 i Chapter 7

108

Driveshafts

Bier eens

eb Poe

es

Se

eee 111

Steering Chapter 8 eee ey ee te Ee rare

118

Braking system Chapter9 et eee Re

132

Electrical system Chapter 10 ee

176

11 Suspension, wheels and tyres Chapter ee eee a Bodywork and fittings Chapter 12 eee ee a

Metric conversion tables A Index

sh

191

Se 207 209

i

ia

tn

Use of English As this book

has been written

in England, it uses the appropriate

English component

names, phrases, and spelling. Some of these

differ from those used in America. Normally, these cause no difficulty, but to make sure, a glossary is printed below. In ordering spare Parts remember the parts list will probably use these words:

Glossary English American S English e nn Accelerator Alternator Anti-roll bar Battery

Gas pedal

Be

Bonnet (engine cover) Boot lid

Boot (luggage compartment) Bottom gear

Locks

Stabiliser or sway bar

Motorway Number plate Paraffin

Energizer Hood Trunk lid Trunk Ist gear Firewall Valve lifter or tappet

Choke/venturi Circlip Clearance Crownwheel

Snap ring

Disc (brake) Drop arm

Drop head coupe Dynamo Earth (electrical)

Engineer’s blue Estate car Exhaust manifold

Fast back (Coupe) Fault finding/diagnosis Float chamber Free-play Freewheel

Gudgeon pin Gearchange Gearbox Halfshaft Handbrake Hood Hot spot Indicator

Interior light Layshaft (of gearbox)

Leading shoe (of brake)

Generator (AC)

Bulkhead Camfollower or tappet Carburettor Catch

Barrel

Lash

Ring gear (of differential) Rotor/disk Pitman arm Convertible

Generator (DC)

Header Hard top

Trouble shooting Float bow Lash Coast Piston pin or wrist pin Shift Transmission Axle-shaft

Turn signal Dome lamp Counter shaft

Latches

Petrol

wigs

ade

Petrol tank

=

ae

Propellor shaft Quarter light Retread Reverse Rocker cover Roof rack Saloon Seized

a

Side indicator lights Side light Silencer

Split pin Steering arm Sump Tab washer Tailgate Tappet

Thrust bearing Top gear

Muffler ne

a

Wing/mudguard

ae

Wrench Rocker panel

Lock (for valve spring retainer) Cotter pin Spindle arm Oil pan Tang; lock

Liftgate Valve lifter act

Trackrod (of steering) Trailing shoe (of brake) Transmission Tyre Van Vice Wheel nut Windscreen

Gas tank ‘Pinging’ Driveshaft Quarter window Recap Back-up Valve cover Car-top carrier Sedan Frozen Side marker lights Parking light

Sill panel (beneath doors) Split cotter (for valve spring cap)

Station wagon

Soft top Heat riser

Primary shoe Freeway, turnpike etc. Licence plate Kerosene Gasoline

Spanner

Ground Prussion blue

inti

see

‘Pinking’

Carburetor Latch

Parking brake

4

American

Throw-out bearing High

Tie-rod (or connecting rod) Secondary shoe Whole drive line Tire

Panel wagon/van Vise

Lug nut Windshield Fender

Miscellaneous points An “‘Oil seal” is fitted to components lubricated by grease! A “Damper” is a “Shock absorber’’ it damps out bouncing, and absor bs shocks of bump impact. Both are used haphazardly. names are correct, and both Note that British drum brakes are different from the Bendix type that is common in America, so diffe The shoe end furthest from the h ydraul rent descriptive names result. ic wheel cylinder is on a Pivot ; interconnection between the uncommon. Therefore the phrase “Prim shoes as on Bendix brakes is most ary” or “Secondary”’ y. Ashoe is said to be Leading or shoe is one on which a point on th e drum, Trailing. A “Leading” as it rotates forwar d, reaches the shoe at the end worked by anchor end. The opposite is a traili ng the hydraulic cylinder before shoe, and this one has n the

0 self servo from the wrapping effect of the rotating drum.

Introduction to the Datsun F10 The Datsuns covered by this workshop manual are known as the F10 series. Introduced in 1976, the UK range, consisting of saloon, coupe and station wagon, is designated: 100A F-I] with a 988 cc engine and 120A F-ll with a 1171 cc engine. In North America the range, consisting of sedan, hatchback, station wagon and sports

wagon

models, is designated

F10 and has a 85.24 cu in (1397 cc)

series

engine. The F10 series is based on the Cherry 100A and 129A, having the

same well proven mechanical layout but with a new, slightly larger body. The construction is very strong with vibration and soundproofing materials used in the floor, bulkheads and body panels,

making the car unusually quiet for its size and type.

Quick reference general data Engine model

A10

A12

A14

Capacity cc (cu/in)

988 (60.3)

V17I(7 1-5)

1397 (85.2)

Firing order

(ae ae)

1=3-4=2

13-42

Idling speed (rpm)

700

700

700

Ignition timing (BTDC) degree rpm

8°/700

7°/700

10°/700

Spark plug gap in (mm)

0.028 —0.031

0.031 — 0.035

0.039 — 0.043

(0.7 — 0.8)

(0.8 — 0.9)

(1.0— 1.1)

Contact breaker gap in (mm)

0.018 — 0.022 (0.45 — 0.55)

0.018 —0.022 (0.45 — 0.55)

0.018 — 0.022 — 0.55) (0.45

Distributor air gap (Californian models) in (mm)

N/A

N/A

0.008 — 0.016

Inlet and exhaust valve clearance (Hot) in (mm)

0.014 (0.35)

0.014 (0.35)

0.014 (0.35)

Capacities:

Imperial

Metric

US

Fuel tank Saloon, Coupe and sports wagon Station wagon

83 gals 72 gals

40 litres 35 litres

103 gals 94 gals

43 qts 57 qts

5.4 litres

53 qts

6.6 litres

7 qts

24 qts 2 qts

2.8 litres 3.3 litres

3 gts 34 qts

4 pts

2.3 litres

4i pts

Cooling system (with heater): A10 and A12 engines A14 engines Engine oil: Without oil filter change With oil filter change Transmission

(0.2 — 0.4)

Overall dimensions in (mm) 100A F-II and 120A F-II models Length Width Height Wheelbase

F10 models Length Width Height Wheelbase

Saloon, coupe and station wagon

150.59 (3825) 59.06 (1500) 52.76 (1340)

94.29 (2395)

Sedan

Hatchback

Station wagon

156.9(3985)

156.9 (3985)

157.3 (3995)

59.8 (1520)

59.8 (1520)

59.8 (1520)

53.0 (1345)

51.8 (1315)

53.7 (1365)

94.3 (2395)

94.3 (2395)

94.3 (2395)

|I-4

ednog

uoojes 100p-4NO} ||-4

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers e

e

Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: Datsun garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare parts is as follows: Officially appointed Datsun garages — This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your car and otherwise not generally available (eg complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your car is still under warranty; non-Da tsun components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaini ng the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your car's engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the old part along for positive

identification. Remember that many parts are available on a factory exchange scheme — any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equippe d to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops — These are often very good places to buy material and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg oil filter, spark plugs, bulbs, fan belts, oils and grease, touch-up paint, filler paste etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can

often be found not Motor factors components which pistons, valves,

‘seals/shoes and pads etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchan ge basis — this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers

Modifications are a continuing and unpubl ished process in vehicle manufacture quite apart from major model changes. Spare parts

manuals and lists are compiled upon &@ numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers being essential to Correct identification of the component required. The car identification plate is located on the left-hand wheel apron in the engine compartment. The car serial number is stamped on the centre of the bulkhead in the engine compartment. The car serial number is preceded by the engine model designation, A10. Al2 or Al4. The engine cylinder block.

CHASSIS NO Fahrgest. Nr GVW. PTC, PMA, HIG ail. Ges, Gewicht fF GAW Poids max.fssieu AV

wil. Achslast

ee

far from home. — Good factors will Stock all the more importa nt wear out relatively quickly (eg clutch components, exhaust systems, brake cylinders/pipes/ho ses

number

is stamped

on

the

right rear

side

of the

At6 * SUEY

Vora

GCW.PTR.PMAT.HTGS eG

Car identification plate

Car serial number stamped on the bulkhead

tee

The engine number is Stam ped on the cylinder block

Routine

maintenance

ee) ke ee ag Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from the car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication — oiling, greasing and so on — has been drastically reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required the items either no longer exist or will last for ever. This is a serious delusion. It follows therefore that the largest initial element of maintenance is visual examination. This may lead to repairs or renewals.

in the summary

given here the ‘essential for safety’ items are

shown in bold type. These must be attended to at the regular frequencies shown in order to avoid the possibility of accidents and loss of life. Neglect results in unreliability, increased running costs, more rapid wear and more rapid depreciation of the vehicle in general. TE

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly — whichever comes first a

Steering Check the tyre pressures. Examine tyres for wear or damage. Is steering smooth and accurate?

ee

ee

Engine Check Check Check water

the sump oil level and top-up if required. the radiator coolant level and top-up if required. the battery electrolyte level and top-up the level with distilled as needed.

ne

EES

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km)

a

aE aaa Senn nnn

Engine

Change oil. (If short distance driving, extensive idling or driving in dusty conditions, change oil every 3000 miles) Renew engine oil filter. Clean and check spark plugs. Check distributor cap, rotor and contact points. Lubricate distributor shaft and cam. Check drive belts for cracks, fraying, wear and correct tension. Check battery terminals. Check for coolant, oil and fuel leaks.

Steering Brakes Check reservoir fluid level. Is there any fall off in braking efficiency? Try an emergency stop. Is adjustment necessary?

Lights, wipers and horns

Do all bulbs work at the front and rear? Are the headlamp beams aligned properly? Do the wipers and horns work? Check windscreen washer fluid level

Examine all steering linkages, joints and bushes for signs of wear or damage. Check front wheel hub bearings and adjust if necessary. Check security of steering gear mounting. Rotate road wheels and rebalance if necessary.

Brakes

Examine disc pads and drum shoes for wear. Renew if necessary. Examine all hydraulic pipes, hoses and unions for chafing, corrosion or dents. Check for any signs of leaks. Adjust drum type brakes.

"hn

Lo cd

Topping-up with engine oil

Engine oil sump drain plug

10

Routine maintenance

a

Suspension Examine all nuts, bolts and shackles securing units, front and rear. Tighten if necessary.

ar

Brakes the

suspension

Lubricate handbrake linkage.

Examine the rubber bushes for signs of wear and play.

Every 30 000 miles (50 000 km)

Transmission Check oil level and top-up if necessary. Examine driveshaft boots for splits or deterioration.

Brakes

Clutch

Drain hydraulic system, renew fresh fluid. Bleed system.

Check fluid reservoir and top-up if necessary. Check pedal free-movement and adjust if necessary.

gery. all cylinder seals and

refill with

Clutch Drain

Body

hydraulic

system,

renew

master

and slave cylinder seals,

refill with fresh fluid. Bleed system. If it is a mechanical system it

Check seat belts, buckles and anchors. Lubricate all locks and hinges. Check that water drain holes at bottom of doors are clear.

is sound practice to renew the cable. —_—_—_—_—_—_——__:

Kw

————

Additionally the following items should be attended to as time can be spared: ee

a

‘

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km)

a

Cleaning

a

Examination of components requires that they be cleaned. The same applies to the body of the car, inside and out, in order that deterioration due to rust or unknown damage may be detected. Certain parts of the body frame, if rusted badly, can result in the vehicle being declared unsafe and it will not pass the annual test for roadworthiness.

Engine Check cylinder head bolt torque setting. Check valve clearances and adjust if necessary. Check positive crankcase ventilation system Check fuel storage evaporative emission control system Check exhaust emission control system. Fit new spark plugs. Fit new distributor points. Clean carburettor float chamber and jets. Check HT leads for deterioration

Exhaust system An exhaust system must be kept to a minimum. Excessive fumes to enter the passenger stitutes a public nuisance. Both be kept off the road. Repair

Steering

symptoms

are apparent.

leakproof, and the noise level must be leaks may cause carbon monoxide compartment. Excessive noise conthese faults may cause the vehicle to or renew defective sections when

Check shock absorber operation

Other aspects of Routine Maintenance

Transmission

eee

Check security of driveshaft bolts.

:

Jacking-up Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km)

SCN

ee

Engine Flush the cooling system and refill with the correct anti-freeze coolant mixture (Ethylene glycol base). Renew fuel filter. Renew air cleaner element, and air pump air cleaner filter (if fitted). Renew carbon canister filter (if fitted).

Topping-up with transmission oil

Always chock a wheel on the Opposite side, in front and behind. Always support the car on stands as well as on the jack. Use only the Support strong points shown in the associated illustrations.

Whee! nuts These should be cleaned and lightly smeare d with grease as necessary during work, to keep them moving easily. If the nuts are stubborn to undo due to dirt and overtightening , it may be necessary to hold them by lowering the jack till the wheel rests on the ground. Normally if the wheel brace is used across the hub centre a foot or knee held against the tyre will prevent the wheel from turning, and so save

Transmission drain plug

Routine maintenance

11 CO

EE

the wheels and nuts from wear if the nuts are slackened with weight on the wheel. After refitting a wheel make a point later of rechecking the nuts again for tightness.

Safety Whenever working, even partially, under the car, put an extra strong box or piece of timber underneath onto which the car will fall rather than on you.

Cleanliness Whenever you do any work allow time for cleaning. When something is in pieces or components removed to improve access to other

—

areas, give an opportunity for a thorough clean. This cleanliness will

allow you to cope with a crisis on the road without getting yourself dirty. During bigger jobs when you expect a bit of dirt it is less extreme and can be tolerated at least whilst removing a component. When an item is being taken to pieces there is less risk of ruinous grit finding its way inside. The act of cleaning focuses your attention onto parts and you are more likely to spot trouble. Dirt on the ignition components is a common cause of poor starting. Large areas such as the engine compartment, inner wings or bulkhead should be brushed thoroughly with grease solvent, allowed to soak and then very carefully hosed down. Water in the wrong places, particularly the carburettor or electrical components will do more harm than dirt. Use petrol or paraffin and a small paintbrush to clean the more inaccessible places.

Waste disposal Old oil and cleaning paraffin must be destroyed. Although it makes

a good base for a bonfire the practice is dangerous. It is also illegal to dispose of oil and paraffin down domestic drains. By buying your new

engine oil in one gallon cans you can refill them with old oil and take them to the local garage who have facilities for disposal.

Long journeys Before continental in the form advance so

taking the car on long journeys, particularly such trips as holidays, make sure that the car is given a thorough check of the next service due, plus a full visual inspection well in that any faults found can be rectified in time.

y

.ss a Sa SSSS SS Ss

soosSssS

Rear support positions (station wagon)

\pnscmcnee ay)

Rear towing point (station wagon)

Tools and working facilities er

siocrirrgt

i

ae

age

eR

een ee:

/ntroduction A selection of good tools is a fundamental require ment for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the Owner who does net possess any, their purchas e will prove a consider-

able expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-ityourself. However, provided that the tools purchased are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to Carry Out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following heading s: Maintenance and

minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor

repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experie nce grows, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-ityourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and over-

haul procedures and will add tools from the Special category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use these tools will be put to.

It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools available from the publishers of this manual.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools given in this list should

be considered

as

a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair Operations are to be undertaken. We recom mend the purchase of combination spanners (ring one end, Openended the other): although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner. Combination spanners - 6,7,8,9, Adjustable spanner - 9 inch

70, 11, & 12 mm

Engine sump/gearbox/rear axle drain plug key (where applicable)

Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert )

Spark plug gap adjustment too/ Set of feeler gauges Brake adjuster spanner (where appli cable) Brake bleed nipple Spanner

Screwdriver - 4 in long x x in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 4 in long x x in dia (cros s blade)

Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw, junior Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge

Grease gun (where applicable) Oil can Fine emery cloth (1 sheet) Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

Repair and overhaul tool kit These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any

major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are addition al to those given in the Maintenance and minor repair list. Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensi ve they will be found invaluable

as they are so versatile - particularly if various drives

are included in the set. We recommend the + in square-drive type, as this can be used

with

most

proprietary

torque

wrenches.

If

you cannot afford a socket set, even bought pieceme al, then inexpensive tubular box spanner s are a useful alternative.

The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Specia/ list. Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous list

Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets)

Torque wrench (for use with socke ts) Mole’ wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber

Screwdriver - 6 in long x # /n dia (flat blade)

Screwdriver - 2 jin long x % in squar e (flat blade)

Screwdriver - 14 in long x x in dia (cros s blade

) Screwdriver - 3 in long x 3 in dia (elect ricians)

Pliers - electricians side cutte rs Pliers - needle nosed Pliers - circlip (internal and exter nal)

Cold chisel - 4 inch

Scriber (this can be made by grinding the end of a broken hacksaw blade) Scraper (this can be made by flattening and sharpening one end of a piece of copper pipe) Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw Valve grinding tool

Steel rule/straight edge Allen keys Selection of files

Wire brush (large)

Axle stands Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

Tools and working\facilities

13

a

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or a motorist’s club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist. The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturer's special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturer's special tool is given. However, sometimes, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed you will have

to entrust the work to a franchised garage Valve spring compressor Piston ring compressor Balljoint separator Universal hub/bearing puller Impact screwdriver

Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Carburettor flow balancing device (where applicable) Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing light

Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter

general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least # in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as wing mirrors and reversing lights. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers

clean, lint-free rags available, clean as possible.

Spanner jaw gap comparison table Jaw gap (in)

Spanner size

0.250 0-275

+ in AF 7 mm AF

0-315 0-340 0-354

8mm AF 11/32 in AF;4 in Whitworth 9 mm AF

0-393

10 mm AF

0-312

0-375 0-433

& in AF

2 in AF

11mm AF

0-437

Zin AF

0-445

% in Whitworth;7 in BSF

0-472

12 mm AF

0-500 0.512

tin AF 13 mm AF

0-525 0-551

0-562

4 in Whitworth;§ in BSF 14mm AF

2 in AF

0-590

15 mm AF

0-600

& in Whitworth; 3 in BSF

Cylinder compression gauge

0-625

3 in AF

Lifting tackle

0-629 0-669 0-687 0-708 0-710

16 mm AF 17 mm AF Bin AF 18mm AF 2 in Whitworth; % in BSF

Trolley jack Light with extension lead

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. Remember, you don’t have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

0-748

19 mm AF

0-750

3 in AF

0-866

22 mm AF

0-920 0-937

4 in Whitworth;2 in BSF 8 in AF

0-944

24 mm AF

0-812 0-820 0.875

1-000

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc., must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time-to-time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

Working facilities

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If some anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out,

form of suitable working area becomes essential. by It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced benefit circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the always of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should be done under the cover of a roof. flat Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean workbench or table at a suitable working height. 4 in (100 Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of some clean mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously,

, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants . necessary become which on so and paints touch-up fluids, cleaning Another item which may be required, and which has a much more

8 in AF Z in Whitworth; +inBSF Zin AF

1 in AF

1-010

2 in Whitworth;$in BSF

1-023

26 mm AF

1-062

14 in AF; 27 mm AF

1-100

$ in Whitworth;3 in BSF

1-181

30 mm AF

1-200

in Whitworth; 3 in BSF

1-259

32 mm AF

1-300

3 in Whitworth;% in BSF

1-125

1-250

14 in AF

14 in AF

42312

1% in AF

1-390 1-417

#8 in Whitworth; % inBSF 36 mm AF

1-480

% in Whitworth; 1 in BSF

1-500 1-574

14 in AF 2 inWhitworth 40 mm AF;

1-614

41 mm AF

1-670 1-687

1 in Whitworth; 14 in BSF 12 in AF

1-811

46 mm AF

1-812 1-860

1# in AF 14 in Whitworth; 14 in BSF

1-968 2-000

50 mm AF 2 in AF

1-437

1-625

1-875

and

and try to keep any working area as

1d in AF

12 in AF

1Z in AF

2-050

14 in Whitworth; 13 in BSF

2-165 2-362

55 mm AF 60 mm AF

14

lverry Davey) HAYNES] ©uayves

Recommended Component

lubricants Specification

Castrol grade

Engine (1)

SAE 20W-50

Gearbox (2)

Gear oil (Sae API GL-4)

Wheel bearings (3)

Grease (NLGI No. 1 or 2)

Suspension balljoints (4)

Castrol LM Grease

Grease (NLGI No. 1 or 2)

Castrol LMGrease

Brake and clutch systems (5)

Hydraulic

DOT 3) Note:

fluid

Castrol GTX

80EP

(SAE

or

9OEP;

7OR-3;

Castrol Hypoy

Castrol

Hypoy

Girling

and Clutch Fluid

Light or Castrol

Universal

Brake

The above

are general recommendations only. Lubrication requirements doubt, consult the driver's handbook or the nearest official agent.

vary from territory-to-territory. If in

Chapter 1 Engine Contents

Flywheel starter ring gear — inspection and renewal

Ancillary components—removal

..........0.eeenebeeees

8

...

27

General description

Camshaft and tappets—removal

.. .......... 0.0 ee ee eee

17

Gudgeon pins—removal

..... ..... ..... .....

24 23 25 32

Camshaft and camshaft bearings — inspection and renovation Connecting rods and bearings — inspection andrenovation Crankshaft and main bearings— inspection and renovation Cylinder bores and crankcase — inspection and renovation Cylinder head — decarbonising, inspection and renovation Cylinder head—reassembly Cylindenhead=— removals

igweees ............ ae mS

36

ss ead

9

aid se

-easic apo ne hive

.............-...

Engine — adjustment after major overhaul Engine dismantling— general renewal EnginelmountingS

ces

eee .. 0c cece eee ........ warn os cone brs «ston Spry sol clin we

ee pee os Are eee Enqine.ollsump—femMOValy ene 4 ose whee ce 6 Sere ENGINE —TeaSSeMibly, ccueeis, ge wate eeepc eeens 0.0 eeee .. Engine reassembly — general ...... EMGIne = remove liavarte a sin ais Abebeiay a ecu e seete elsc, .e%s,aitete a See wine es oe ee scsi fn. ei Encinewremovalgemerall ...........---Engine/transmission assembly — separation

Eiigine/ transmission, FORTIN Gis 2

goers» « fase

oe

..........--+.505Engine/ transmission refitting — general MPS ie ce Kode enn Sania free eter cr clas BauitclagnOSiSna Flywheel removal! poorer a. oieteas chs ctiesheu es « SEAMS 60 6 ee oe

..........

... 0.2... cee teen eee ee eee

ce nee

5.. eee eee ...... 0s eee eee

+++ sees eee eeee Inlet and exhaust valves—removal .....--eaes +e eee . Inspection and renovation — general ........-. . 00+ - see eee Lubrication system —description ........Main bearings and crankshaft —removal .........+++++5-5Major operations with engine inthe car Major operations with engine removed

...........++0055: .........+..+++++5:

225... 0... os saree

41

Oil/pump=— inspectionand servicing)

7 42 12 37 35 5 4 6

Pistons and connecting rods— removal ..........-+.++++5> ......... Pistons and piston rings— inspection and renovation Pistonirings— removal (spe cc. cere sete eiieeie) +)erncginua itis Kayan conan ......-.+..500Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system .........-Rockers and rocker shaft — inspection and renewal eee sees 2-+ .........++++ Rocker assembly —dismantling ............ Tappets and pushrods — inspection and renewal Timing chain, tensioner and sprockets — inspection and renovation

40

Timing cover, gear and chain—removal

39 43

34

1 19

10 22 20 16 2 3

21 14 26 18 38 30 11 3 33

.......++++s++s05-

31

.......... Valves and valve seats — inspection and renovation .....-.-+200sse0Valve guides — inspection andrenewal

28 29

15 LEER

a

Specifications em

its left; eg the All dimensions are shown as in (mm) unless otherwise stated. The word ‘ditto’ denotes that it has the same dimension as given on A12 engine is the same as that given for the A 10. Where a dimension is applicable to all three engine types, it is centred compression ratio for the under the three headings, eg the firing order for all engines is 1, 3, 4, 2.

A10

Engine model Goo...

Gylindenarrangement

Ganacity COUCU/I) Wes co9h eer

aie sa

ate)

se

cere

hate

ye

aime Bitters steer yalscara ete oe as

SY TCILP A sakeene uc ob eens Ome orb po ariaoatiboa io ir Woah oa icone (One a aranaaa i Ran Ste eee catiolaesaneaA ata atone etre yned einer ayalleio? elas STHOKC HME CME oe adc oco no maon Seu) OG Go Ou bo Uioss-s aNOlMiDIEL SS Conse Na tett peter ahs peta barta ok ne TeteyaTahs PirEOTOGN) onhil terre: ne ee a Ignition timing: =. eres See ee le aa

988 (60.3) 2.87 (73) 2.32 (59) LS S|

VPS TGaLoasis ote, dg. GEE ED olcucl/bec QhOIDNOs cos N CRORE REEON eC Coat e eee eee Surface flatness (maximum limit) ... 0... 6-05

OVEFSIZEINOO) OVETSIZE

de) ee

ees

erie pes es SOIR MRRs

ees neice oe sie

ia winslaip) lies

itya eileceeieidoliorthe nner Allele eoTe

E50) eee rosie bli cnet pane ralopae nek: ER

ahs inde MRA

8.551

ditto

2.9921 -— 2.9941 (76.000 — 76.050)

0.0079 (0.20) 0.0039 (0.10)

Pistons

Oversize (OLGO) ae

1397 (85.24) 2.99 (76) 3:03: (77)

cast iron

2.874 — 2.876 (73.000 — 73.050)

eCiaeCrg eee

elle ice civen uct) ote) cance Gabvpie! lvls) ie! aMtaiace begaBe\ icy e lele)ie INA trical ee Diameter: AG LHeL cmicyrhea aeielln PLIGUG bolLGs te PsONG)Onain Rae ORB CACC catec UOC ACRE CET

four in line 77 1S) ditto 2.76 (70) ditto 1-3-4-2

A14

Refer to Chapter 4

Cylinder block

WEXTATEN IS out o aor ds i.can oseueoclGis) olouplecotaens titeryacaO ceciCine On nace aaa boo bpd ple oo 5 6 Oly usdol O1a.b OO.) ClonAb Ot SEO Mi GlEDaar

A12

Aluminium

2.8735 — 2.8755 (72.987 — 73.037) 2.8924 — 2.8944 (73.467 — 73.517) 2.9121 -—2.9140 (73.967 — 74.017) 2.9318 — 2.9337 (74.467 — 74.517)

ditto ditto ditto ditto

2.9908 — 2.9927 (75.967— 76.017) 3.0105 — 3.0124 (76.467 — 76.517) 3.0301 — 3.0321 (76.967 — 77.017)

16

Chapter 1/Engine

Piston rings INUIMDOTe PRe Rar

a Ae ioe. 8 cau hie si: Uc

4 4 nia

eee

Side clearance: AUS SMe ene ee cocaine ok biaswee ew yoo) ooect TCU GM Gmerese ails Rectte, Hiratketsc ks3.s Sea's iach acaeee

OURO GBR errycaeseisch cc'sss t,.2 3)aah is stags

Two compression and one oil control

tae ganee

Ring gap: PRO PICUGI sore cy acca,

(€p% TE) 6S UVP 6ST) OF 99 TC (LIT

ied — wa3sAs ysNneYyxX] O9'E “Bi4 (gg (98g) yORQUuIIeH puke UePES — japow e1umsoy

0, HWLad ee

(

3,

G,, Wv13d

\

sai] PAL.

AW

ee

71

WV, Wwi30

72

Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

separate it is quicker and easier in the long run to remove the complete

the damaged part from the adjoining good section rather than risk damaging the latter. 9 If small repairs are being carried out it is best, if possible, not to try and pull the sections apart. 10 Refitting should be carried out after connecting the two sections together. De-burr and grease the connecting socket and make sure that the clamp is in good condition and slipped over the front pipe but do not tighten it at this stage. 11 Connect the system to the manifold and connect the rear support strap. 12 Tiohtah the pipe clamp, the manifold flange nuts and the rear suspension strap bolts. Check that the exhaust system will not knock against any part of the vehicle when deflected slightly in a sideways or upward direction.

system from the car when renewing a section. It can be expensive if another section is damaged when trying to separate a bad section

from it.

5 To remove the system first remove the bolts holding the tail pipe bracket to the body. Support the rear silencer on something to prevent cracking or kinking the pipes elsewhere. 6 Disconnect the front pipe at the chassis and differential support brackets. 7 Disconnect the manifold to downpipe connecting flange and then withdraw the complete exhaust system from below and out to the rear of the vehicle. If necessary, jack-up the rear of the vehicle to provide

more clearance. 8 When separating the damaged

section to be renewed

cut away

eS et 57 Fault diagnosis — Fuel system and carburation eee Symptom

Reason/s

from

carburettor,

fuel

pump

or

Float chamber flooding Generally worn carburettor Distributor condenser faulty Balance weights or vacuum advance mechanism in distributor faulty Carburettor incorrectly adjusted, mixture too rich Idling speed too high Contact breaker gap incorrect Valve clearances incorrect Incorrectly set spark plugs Tyres under-inflated

Wrong spark plugs fitted Brakes dragging Insufficient fuel delivery or weak to air leaks

mixture due

Partially clogged filters in pump and carburettors

Incorrectly seating valves in fuel pump Fuel pump diaphragm leaking or damaged Gasket in fuel pump damaged Fuel pump valves sticking due to petrol gumming

Too

little

fuel

in fuel

climbing steep hills)

tank

(prevalent

when

Union joints on pipe connections loose Split in fuel pipe on suction side of fuel pump Inlet

manifold

to

head

carburettor gasket leaking

ee

eee 2wR

Air cleaner choked and dirty giving rich mixture Fuel leaking fuel lines

Ee

Remedy

a Fuel consumption excessive

Be

or

inlet

manifold

to

AA

I

Remove, clean, renew element and refit air cleaner. Check for and eliminate all fuel

i

leaks.

Tighten fuel line union nuts. Check and adjust float level.

Remove, overhaul or renew. Remove and fit new unit. Remove and overhaul distributor.

Tune and adjust carburettor. Adjust idling speed. Check and reset gap. Check rocker arm to valve stem clearances and adjust as necessary. Remove, clean and re-gap. Check tyre pressures and inflate if necessary. Remove and replace with correct units. Check and adjust brakes.

Remove and clean filters. Remove and clean out float chamber and needle valve assembly. Remove, and overhaul or fit new fuel pump. Remove, and overhaul or fit new fuel pump. Remove, and overhaul or fit new fuel pump. Remove and overhaul or thoroughly clean fuel pump. Refill fuel tank.

Tighten joints and check for air leaks. Examine, locate and repair. Test by pouring oil along joints — bubbles indicate leak. Renew gasket as appropriate.

73

Chapter 3/Carburation; fuel, exhaust and emission control systems 58

Fault diagnosis — Emission control systems

eeeneerts eereeerneett et en Symptom

22

ea

een

High idling speed

Reason/s

a

eile

Sticking anti-stall dashpot Binding accelerator linkage Faulty throttle opener system Automatic choke faulty

Rough or unstable idling speed

Incorrect idle adjustment Incorrect automatic choke setting Faulty vacuum

motor, sensor or hoses of air

cleager Idle compensator in air cleaner faulty Defective EGR control valve

Carbon canister purge line hose damaged

Remedy

Adjust or renew dashpot. Check and rectify as necessary. Check for loose hose connections. Renew components as necessary. as components renew or Adjust necessary.

Re-adjust idling speed. Adjust. j Check for loose hoses. components

system

Renew

as necessary.

Renew. Clean or renew. Re-connect or renew.

or disconnected

Backfire or after-burning

Faulty ATC air cleaner Defective anti-backfire valve Defective EGR control valve

Check for loose vacuum necessary. Renew. Renew.

Air pump noisy

Damaged air pump

Renew air pump.

Lack of power

Altitude compensator setting incorrect

Correct H—L lever setting.

hoses.

Rectify as

(California models)

AT 0e cots leg E 5

ee reer

oe

Chapter 4 Ignition system Se ae ee ee Le SRA iene iiaber teh Air gap (breakerless distributor) — adjustment .............. Breakerless ignition system (California models) — fault diagnosis . Coil descriptionancipolarity myaamee reute ee y Condenser (capacitor) — removal, testing and refitting) cial tele 9)«oli Hydraulically operated clutch — adjustment ........-++---+-+: seer eee ecees ++...-+ ....... Hydraulic system —bleeding Master cylinder — removal, servicing andreassembly ......--.. Pushrod and release bearing assembly — removal and refitting tet pec cir es eo asi cnteeePat ctcostedse restefioweuoute Se. PUShrOdMeSGleCtion. Slave (operating) cylinder — removal, servicing and reassembly ..

Specifications

LE UEEEEEEEEEEE

nnn

INO BSIRCIN I

go picnics chek sirstones teepee

are

SL os

ale te

Clutch disc Facing size Outendia Countershaft — dismantling andreassembly 20 ede cia cones Nc gee csc aera ssp RauludiagnOSiSmmceis 6 ss+0> Final drive and differential — dismantling ....---+-+++ss 12 eeee Final drive and differential— reassembly .....---+++ese 18 ..... Gearchange linkage (4-speed transmission) — adjustment ie ..... nt adjustme — ion) transmiss Gearchange linkage (5-speed AL? ..-.... Gearchange linkage — removal, inspection and refitting 1 es re eis merit Seer Generalidescriptionimrnns 5 eee) eee les cua sue ariel / +. Gies Cismantlim Mainshatt— 11 eee eeerste : 2+ sees --.-.... Mainshaft—reassembly

=

0.047 (1.2) 0.020 (0.5)

92

Chapter 6/Transmission

ET Main shaft bearing adjusting shim

=

1st/reverse counter GeavagiUstingishitiin

Primary idler gear SO/UStING Spacer

0.0020 0.0028 0.0039 0.0118 0.0197 0.0276 0.0354

aire )ee keenee e

ToT

Te

ee

is

0.0079 (0.20) 0.268 0.269 0.272 0.274 0.276

eee

(0.05) (0.07) (0.10) (0.30) (0.50) (0.70) (0.90)

(6.80) (6.85) (6.90) (6.95) (7.00)

Peeks (0.20) 0.0118 (0.30) 0.0276 0.0315 0.0354 0.0394 0.0433

Differential side gear thrust washer......... ................

Torque wrench settings SR NCC AN ak na: deduce. coe oa he oe Oe eee OMEaaidler SRA IOCKAUT Si. Gass eww cic ey bs eeu Les, REECE KT ee rer tearnt tr enna pine i eh SDs alle 0 Sie ca cel en Slee MANUG SUUMETENNS)? ee ecled. .. 1... Seemmremnetices mc Ree

EURO SWREN CCEN se cuca au ees

Interlock plugs

1.

2)

OLIN

ey

oe,

Ibf ft 43-58 72-87 36-43 43-51 87-101 14-22 8-12

The power from the engine is transm itted through the clutch, primary gear train to the main drive input gear, and subsequently to

a)

the mainshaft in the gearbox.

The reverse stop mechanism is incorporated in the socket locate d at the lower end of the hand lever.

2

Transmission removal — general

3

Transmission dismantling — gener al

1 Ensure that an exceptionally clean area is available for dismantling, and that a good supply of clean fluff-free rags is avail

6)

c) d) e)

the

able, together with various jars and containers in which to store items . 2 It is sound policy to replace bolts, after a component has been dismantled, to aid replacement. Failing this identify them in some

Good quality circlip pliers; 2 pairs, tracting. Copperhead mallet, at least 2 /bs.

1 expanding and

7 con-

Drifts, steel 3 in and brass 3 in.

Small containers for needle rollers.

Engineer's vice mounted on firm bench.

4 Any attempt to dismantle the gearb ox without the foregoing is not necessarily impossible, but will certainly be very difficult and inconvenient resulting in possible injury or damage. 5 Take care not to let the synchromes h hub assemblies come apart before you want them to. It accelerate s wear if the splines of hub and sleeve are changed in relation to each other. As a precaution it is advisable to make a line up mark with a dab of paint. 6 Before finally going ahead with dismantling first ascertain the availability of spare parts. If sever al major components need repla cing, work out the total cost. It could well be that a reconditioned unit is cheaper in the long run. 4

The gearbox and differential assembly are removed from the vehicle together with the engine as described in Chapter 1, Secti on 5. In this Chapter it is assumed that the complete assembly has been

kgf m 6-8 10-12 5-6 6-7 12-14 2-3 1.1-—1.5

other way. 3 As a general aid it is a good policy to have the following tools at hand:

General description

The gearbox is fairly standard having a 4-speed mainshaft and layshaft (countershaft). A 5-speed transmission is fitted to the model F10 Hatchback. The mainshaft transm its the drive to the final drive and differential unit which shares the same housing with the gearbox. A common lubrication system is shared by the two assemblies. The final gear used in the final drive is a helical gear which is of the same design as that used in the trans mission, requiring no adjustment for gear contact pattern. The transmission gearchange is of a remote control floor shift type. It consists essentially of a hand lever, a linkage which conne cts the hand lever to the transmission, and a radius link assembly which Supports the linkage at the locati on between the control rod and the transmission.

(0.70) (0.80) (0.90) (1.0) (1.1)

Transmission (4-speed) — dism antling

1 Support the assembly on a stand or on a bench. The housing is made of aluminium alloy, so great care must be taken , as it js easily damaged. Prior to dismantling the unit clean all dirt and greas e from it with a good grease solvent. Remove the drain plug, drain the oil into a container and refit the drain plug.

2 Remove the bolts that secu re the clutch thrust bearing housing and the primary drive gear. Withdraw the assembly (phot o), 3 Remove the bolts that secu re the primary gear cover and remove the cover by tapping it with a soft hammer (photo). This might be a little difficult owing to the bearings in the cover. Do not prise it off with a screwdriver. It will be noted that some bolts either have a white When replacing any bolts of this type a protective Setting gasket sealer should be applied to the threads.

coating of non-

93

Seal bolts

mg

Fig. 6.1. Exploded view of transmission casing (4-speed) (Sec. 4) Seal bolts

1 Primary gear cover 2 Clutch cover 3 Transmission case

4 Transmission case cover 5 Bottom cover * Seal bolt

Fig. 6.2. Exploded view of transmission gear assembly (4-speed) (Sec. 4) Sub-gear Primary drive gear Primary idler gear Main drive input gear Main drive shaft Lock nut 3rd gear 2nd gear 1st gear OANAAAWNH™ 10 Reverse gear 11. Main shaft 12 Thrust washer 13 Needle bearing 14 Idler gear 15 Idler gear shaft 16 Reverse idler gear 17 Reverse idler shaft

Chapter 6/Transmission

Ist-2

> ,

nd shift

fork

rd-

sie

Reverse fork and forks (Sec. 4)

42

Removing the primary drive gear

De

¢

>

the bottom cover from the transmission

tor

LG)

the retainin oO w

Mar LS

its.

> Using a screwdriver,

r (or 2nd) at the same time. Unscrew

the.main a drive ge

the nu

rth

oO

*

Myo

nrimas

he

> an

primary

press

d primary

press »

rin

r

bearing

mC

SoOriinN

US

1G

te

the

‘)

Secu

rp

top

O

Se OT

Se

whe

SS rmo COME

n the flange freoe +

Mm

tool

|

tyr

R mRemove = c

~

eh)

for

t

in the assoc ia ta

wn

[

the

cove © fran om

* the

Dots

~

rin

the

~ ~~ ca seor

cover +

)

(photo).

It

tC wi

us using

NT

rancm transm) 5

rOHah DrOoSDly

; 5 ra9 &2 hamm er

bolts with resin on the threads.

Secunng

Fig. 6.4.

Removing the main drive gear bearing (Sec. 4)

input

12 Remove Steel balls.

main drive input gear. Collect the t ~ x L& Xwash ar, preferably by usin QOS > ble an ordinary three

cover

'O Remove the speedometer pinion gear (photo), TT Lift out the differential unit.

mesh the rever

.

Y gear

of

the detent Plugs and take out the locking springs and 13 Remove the taper plug from the casing: this prov ides access to Grive Out the roll pin on the Ist 2nd gearchange fork (photas) , 14 Using a suitable drift Grive out the roll pin that Secures the gesronange fork to the fork shaft, then remove the shaft and fork. 1S Remove the bolts

Separate

the bracket

mpeortant

when

that retain the reverse from the fork

gear

e

tool,

fork and bracket,

by unclipping the pivot pin and Rfting out the fork 16 Remove the bolts and Gouble nuts that secure the mainshaft Searing retainer and remove the retainer (photo). 17 Remove the reverse idler gear and its shaft, 1S The next step can be & a little tricky. In order to remove the Counter shaft (layshaft) it is necessary to drive it out using either a Special Datsun tool or a piece of rod of the Same diameter as the shaft and the same length as the distance between the two faces of the Gearoox casing. One coul d argu replecing

the lays

that

the

or

rod

is more

haft (in order to retai n the needle Dearings in position) but it is just &S well to use it at this Stage to ensure that it fits and no needle bearings are lost

19

Drive out the countershaft ,

using the tool describe d above.

then

KV38103700.

ie

4.8a

?

Fig. 6.5. Undoing the drive flange securing

Restraining the flange from turning

nuts (Sec. 4)

with a suitable bar and two bolts

Za

aes

90

Fe

bill

4.9 Separate the cover from the transmission case

Yate

Remove the taper plug from the 4.13a casings ...

4.10

Removing the speedometer pinion gear

_... and drive out the roll pin on the 4.13b 1st/2nd gearchange fork

ck plungers (Sec. 4) Fig. 6.7. Position of detent balls and interlo

1 1st/2nd fork 2 3rd/4th fork shaft 3 Reverse fork shaft

4 Interlock plungers 5 Detent balls

The mainshaft bearing retainer is 4.16 secured by through-bolts and double nuts

4) Fig. 6.8. Measuring the endplay of mainshaft gears (Sec.

96

Chapter 6/Transmission

SS

remove the countershaft and gear cluster, and collect the counter gear

to the bearing needles (this will keep them in position), and fit the dummy shaft, thrust washer and spring (photo). 3 The assembly is now ready for fitting in the gearbox during final

spring and thrust washer. 20 Using a suitable drift, remove the roll pins from each of the remaining selector forks and pull each selector shaft out through the casing, complete with the attached dogs. Collect the selector forks and store in a safe place. The interlock plungers can now be removed from

assembly of the transmission.

their housing in the casing between the selector shafts (Fig. 6.7).

8

21 Lift the gear mainshaft assembly and the main drive input gear out of the casing through the final drive side. Collect the needle bearing from the mainshaft nose. 22 Measure the endplay present in each gear of the mainshaft, as shown in Fig. 6.8. If the specified limit of 0.0079 to 0.0118 in (0.2 to 0.3 mm) is exceeded new parts will have to be fitted.

——

ee ee 5 Mainshaft — dismantling ee SS, Pie ere

es

enumerated. 4 Press out the bearing from the mainshaft. This can be done by resting the outer face of the bearing on the vice, and with a piece of wood interposed, lightly tapping the shaft down through the bearing.

Leave the circlip on the bearing outer face.

eee

6

Final drive and differential — dismantling

ee

eeeeeeeeSsSsesese

1 Place the final drive assembly in a vice, using padded jaws, and pull off the differential side bearings using a puller. 2 Remove the bolts that secure the final drive gear to the differential. 3 Detach the differential case. Withdraw the differential pinion, by using a drift and hammer, from the mainshaft, and then remove the differential side gears and pinion.

7

Countershaft — dismantling and reassembly

ings and spacers.

2 Reassembly is the reverse of dismantling. Insert the spacers and needle rollers into both sides of the countergear. Apply grease liberally

Fig. 6.9.

Exploded

view of differential (Sec. 6)

1 Differential caseA

2 Side gear 3 Differential case B

4 Pinion shaft 5 Pinion

unit

gear

and

idler

gear

—

dismantling

9 Transmission components — inspection and checking pee eee i es 2 eae eee 1 Thoroughly clean all parts in cleaning solvent, and blow dry with compressed air. Check each part for wear, damage, or other defective

conditions. 2 Inspect the primary gear cover, clutch housing, transmission case and transmission case cover. Repair or renew parts if burrs, pitting or damage is apparent on their mating surfaces. 3 Repair or renew a dowel pin if it is distorted or other damage is

apparent. 4

Make

dirt.

'

sure that each bearing is thoroughly cleaned and free from

5 Check ball bearings to ensure that they roll freely and are free from cracked, pitted, or worn balls. Also check outer and inner races and balls for indications of bearing creepage. Renew if any of the above conditions are apparent. 6 Renew needle roller bearing, if worn or damaged. 7 Check all the gears for wear, damaged or chipped teeth. Where such damage is evident, the driven and driving gears should be © renewed as a set. Where the gearbox has covered a substantial period of service it will be appropriate to test for backlash and endfloat with

gear

train

assembled

on

the

mainshaft

and

countershaft

0.0118 in (0.2 to 0.3 mm). 8 Where the backlash or endplay is greater than that specified, consideration should be given to purchasing a reconditioned gearbox as

®

4 Counter gear

and

installed in the gearbox. Use a dial gauge to check for backlash, turning each gearwheel as far as it will go whilst holding the mainshaft perfectly still. The permitted backlash tolerance is given below. Use a feeler gauge to check for endplay. The correct tolerance is 0.0079 to

Fig. 6.10. Countershaft and gear assembly (Sec. 7) 1 Thrust washer 2 Spacer 3 Needle bearing

and

a Se, ee ee

the

1 Place: the countershaft in a vice with padded jaws. Although the countershaft is out of the gear assembly at this stage, it is now necessary to remove the dummy shaft and then the needle roller bear-

drive

1 The primary drive gear can be dismantled by first using a piece of bar and lightly tapping the pushrod through the assembly so that the thrust bearing and its two-piece carrier block emerges. Then tap the pushrod right through. 2 The front section of the drive gear can now be removed by using a suitable drift and driving it out. 3. The bearings on the drive gear and idler gear can be pressed out in a vice, always ensuring that soft jaws are used and that suitably spaced blocks of wood carry the pressure. 4 Replacement is the reverse of dismantling, but if any clutch components have been renewed it is most important that the length of the pushrod is selected as covered in Chapter 5.

ee

re ee a 1 Place the mainshaft in a vice, but ensure that some form of padding is used so as not to damage the gears. 2 Remove the locknut from the end of the mainshaft. The lock nut is staked, so when it is removed be sure to clean the threaded portion of the mainshaft until all the metal chips are removed. The lock nut should be discarded and should not be re-used. 3 Remove the 3rd and 4th synchronizer, 3rd gear, main gear bushing, main gear spacer, 2nd gear, main gear bushing, 1st and 2nd synchronizer, 1st and main gear bushing from mainshaft in the order

Primary

reassembly

§

Thrust washer

6 Spring 7 Counter

shaft

7.2 Apply grease when fitting the needle rollers in the countershaft

Chapter 6/Transmission the cost of a complete set of gears and other internal components will probably prove uneconomical by comparison.

Standard backlash 0.0020 to 0.0055 in

Primary drive sie Primary idler gear

(0.05 to 0.14 mm)

Main drive input gear Main drive gears, 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears, reverse idler gear Fina! gear

0.0020 to 0.0059 in

before reassembly. Do not use any liquid sealants between the casing mating surfaces. gasket

sealant

to the threads

of the bolts

specified as seal bolts (see Fig. 6.1) prior to assembly. 3 Always use new gaskets and oil seals. EEE

11

Fit the second gear bush with its oil hole aligned with the hole in mainshaft and then fit the second gear (photos). Fit the main gear spacer, followed by the bush and third gear. Fit baulk ring and synchronizer hub (photos).

Recheck the endplay, and if within the specified limit, stake the 7 locknut to the shaft (photo).

10 Transmission reassembly — general ee SS eee ee Nee Ensure that all parts are thoroughly cleaned and lubricated with oil 1

a non-setting

3 the 4 the

43 Ibf ft (5 — 6 kgf m).

(0.05 to 0.15 mm)

TEED

Apply

in the groove of the baulk ring.

Mount the mainshaft in a vice equipped with soft faced jaws, to 5 avoid damage to the gears. Fit the mainshaft locknut (photo) and tighten to a torque of 36 6

Check baulk rings for evidence of wear, pitting, cracking, or 9 damage. If any of the above conditions are apparent, renew the baulk rings. 10 Measure the clearance between the baulk ring end and cone (Fig. 6.11). The standard clearance is 0.0472 in (1.2 mm). If it is less than 0.0197 in (0.5 mm) replace the baulk ring with a new one.

2

97

EEE

12

Fee 1

Final drive and differential — reassembly

SS eee ee eee a ee ae eee Press the differential side bearings into the differential case. If a

proper

press is not available

use

a hammer

and block of wood

to

spread the load over the face of the bearing. Tap the bearing home gently. The next stage is slightly more complex and involves the use of a 2 dial gauge. Fit the final drive assembly on a testing tool like that shown in Fig. 6.13. If you cannot obtain the official Datsun tool there should be no problem in making one up locally. Using the dial gauge adjust

each side gear endplay to less than 0.008 in (0.2 mm) by selective thrust washers. Sizes of thrust washers available are given in the Specifications. 3. Fit the final drive gear on the differential assembly. Apply thread locking compound to the bolts and tighten them to a torque of 43 to 51 Ibf ft (60 to 7.0 kgf m).

Mainshaft — reassembly

oS Ensure that the sliding surfaces of the mainshaft bushes are 1 jubricated with oil before assembly. Press the ball bearing onto the mainshaft (photo) and fit the 2 reverse gear (photo). Slide the bush into position.on the mainshaft, so that the oil holes are aligned (photo). Fit the first gear, baulk ring and synchronizer hub (photos). Make sure that the insert is correctly seated

Fig.

6.11.

Baulk

ring-to-cone (Sec. 9)

clearance

__ then slide the bush into position, oil with the oil holes aligned with the mainshaft holes

Transmission — reassembly

1

Lubricate the lip of the differential side flange oil seal with multi-

2

Ensure the main drive gear bearing is in position in the casing,

wood purpose grease, and press it into position using a block of between the faces of a vice. Note that the lip should be innermost.

Press the ball bearing onto the 11.2a mainshaft

ps

11.2c

13

11.2d ring ...

:

11.2b

Fit the reverse gear...

y

_.. followed by the 1st gear, baulk

11.2e

_.. and synchronizer hub

11.3a

11.4b_

Fit the 2nd gear bush...

... followed by the bush ...

11.3b

11.4c

... and then the 2nd gear

_... then the 3rd gear, baulk ring ...

11.4a

Fit the main gear spacer ...

11.4d__... and synchronizer hub

if,

11.6

Fitting the mainshaft locknut

11.7

gauge

Fig. 6.13. Measuring the side gear endplay (Sec. 12)

13.2a casing...

Recheck the gear endplay with a feeler

Fig.

6.12.

Staking

the

mainshaft

(Sec. 11)

Position the main drive gear in the

13.2b

_... fit the needle bearing ...

locknut

99

Chapter 6/Transmission

a

S Be a

then ease the main drive gear through the bearing and into position. Fit the needle bearing in the main drive gear and then fit the mainshaft in

the casing (photos). 3. Insert the bottom selector shaft, slide the fork over it and engage the fork with the nearest coupling sleeve on the mainshaft. Secure in

position with a roll pin. Insert the interlock plunger through the bore in centre selector shaft housing (photo). 4 Insert the centre selector shaft, slide the fork over it and engage the fork with the end coupling sleeve on the mainshaft. Secure in position with a roll pin. Insert the interlock plunger (photos). Hold the countergear in position in the transmission case, with the 5 thrust

washers

and

spring

correctly

located,

and

then

insert

bearing retainer (photos). Fit the reverse idler shaft, reverse idler gear and the bearing 6 retainer. Make sure that the cut out part of the reverse idler shaft is

lined up with the bearing retainer. Tighten the idler shaft retaining nuts (double nuts) to a torque of 72 — 87 Ibf ft (10 — 12 kgf m) and the

... and then fit the mainshaft to

engage with the main drive gear

Fitting the WES interlock plunger

13.4c

13.5b

Countergear thrust washer and spring

Fit the steel balls. locking springs and retaining plugs (photos). 9 Manipulate the selector shafts to ensure that all gears can be selected. 10 -Before fitting the differential unit, measure the side bearing height, 'H’ in Fig. 6.15. After selecting a suitable shim from the following table, fit the differential assembly (photos):

the

countershaft into the counter gear and drive out the dummy shaft. Make sure that the cut out part of the countershaft is lined up with the

13-2¢

bearing retainer bolts to 12 — 16 Ibf ft (1.6 — 2.2 kgf m) (photos). 7 Insert the reverse fork shaft, slide the reverse fork pivot over the shaft and secure with a roll pin (photo). Fit the reverse fork bracket and secure with two bolts. Fit the 8 reverse fork on the pivot and secure to the bracket with a clevis pin and clip (photos).

Available shim thickness in (mm) Height ‘H’ 4.720 to 4.730 (119.91 to 120.10)

Thickness Unnecessary

4.715to 4.719 (119.76 to 119.90) 4.710 to 4.714 (119.66 to 119.75)

0.0078 (0.2) 0.0118 (0.3)

=

1 Fit the

bottom

selector

transmission

shaft

and

_.. then fit the interlock plunger

Fig. 6.14. Fitting direction of thrust washer

(Sec. 13) 1. Thrust washer

2 Reverse gear

case

cover,

applying

non-setting

gasket

13.4a forke. 3:

13.5a___-

Fit the countershaft in the countergear

Ensure that the cut-out on the 13:5¢ countershaft is positioned to line up with the bearing retainer

13.6a

Fit the reverse idler shaft and gear ...

13.8a The reverse fork bracket is retained by two bolts

13.6b ... and then the bearing retainer and idler shaft nuts

13.8b Fit the reverse fork on the pivot and secure to the bracket with a clevis pin

Fig. 6.15. Side bearing height (Sec. 13)

13.10b__... and fit the differential assembly

13.11 fitting

The transmission case cover ready for

13.9a

Insert the detent balls and springs ...

13.10a Position the selected shim on the casing...

13.12

Fit the differential side flanges

Chapter 6/Transmission

Ge.

1313

Fitting the reversing lamp switch

13.14 When refitting the clutch housing don't forge t to apply sealant to the seal bolts

_.. then the thrust washer, 13.16b lockwasher and main drive gear nut

sealant to the seal bolts and tightening them to 13 — 18 Ibf ft (1.8 — 2.5 kgf m) and the other bolts to 12 — 16 Ibf ft (1.6 — 2.2 kgf m) (photo).

l 12 Apply thread-locking compound to the threads of the differentia of torque a to nuts retaining the tighten and them fit then side flanges,

refer 87 — 101 Ibf ft (12 — 14 kgf m). Restrain the flanges from turning; to Section 4, paragraph 8 (photo). 13 Fit the reversing lamp switch in its housing in the casing (photo). to the 14 Fit the clutch housing. Apply non-setting gasket sealant threads of the seal bolts (photo). 15

housing Drive the primary idler gear a short way into the clutch

with a wooden

mallet, making sure that its sub-gear side is towards

the primary gear cover. sub-gear to the 16 Fit the main drive input gear. Fit the primary idler sub-gear and correct position by inserting a bar through the hole in the

drive input gear into the hole in the primary idler gear, then fit the main and bearing.

Next fit the thrust washer,

lockwasher

gear nut. The nut for the main drive gear must chamfered side facing the lockwasher (photos). 17

Engage

two

gears

at the same

and main drive

be fitted with the

time, to prevent the main drive

— 58 Ibf ft (6-8 from turning, then tighten the nut to a torque of 43 nut. the lock to her lockwas the kgf m) and bend over (photo). 18 Fit the primary gear cover on the clutch housing cover. 19 Fit the speedometer pinion gear and the bottom drive gear at primary and y assembl housing bearing the fit not 20 Do and flywheel the with up lining of y difficult the this stage because of clutch assembly. in position with a pivot 21 Refit the clutch operating lever and secure locking clip over the a Fit flange. gear drive primary the pin through

pin. Fit the protective rubber boot. first by the single bolt 22 Reconnect the transmission to the engine, rod, then by the bolts through the transmission flange and engine stay e. The clutch should endplat engine the to housing clutch the through still be in position on the flywheel. bearing assembly. If the 23 Now replace the primary drive gear and that you will have to use clutch has been removed it is most likely clutch with the primary drive some form of centring tool to line-up the to loosen the clutch bolts, is it g tacklin of way gear splines. Another

x

the clutch position until the insert the primary drive gear, and adjust

(Veale)

Position the primary idler sub-gear 13.16a with a bar and fit the main drive input gear and

Fitting the primary gear cover

two are correctly mated. Then tighten the bolts. 24 Replace the clutch inspection cover. The assembly is now ready for replacing in the car. Refer to Chapter 1 for these details. i

14

Transmission (5-speed) — general

Dismantling and reassembly procedures are almost the same as those for the 4-speed transmission. Unless otherwise described, refer to the relevant Section for 4-speed transmission. The inspection procedure is the same as for the 4-speed transmission.

ee 15 Transmission (5-speed) — dismantling ee Remove the differential side flanges and primary gear. 1 2 3. the 4

Remove the speedometer pinion gear. lift off Remove the bolts securing the transmission case cover and cover. cover. Take care not to lose the lock ball when removing the Detach the counter thrust bush from first and reverse counter

gear.

Remove the detent ball plugs and take out the steel balls. 5 pin Drive the roll pin out of the reverse shift fork, using a parallel 6 the clutch punch. Drive out the first and reverse fork shaft from housing side with a suitable drift. To remove the cover side taper roller bearing, apply a suitable 7 with the puller to the first gear and remove the bearing together

bearing, retainer washer, first synchronizer assembly, first gear needle

first and reverse counter gear and reverse idler input remove the reverse idler gear and reverse shift fork.

gear.

Then

Lift out the differential unit. 8 pins out Remove the plug from the service hole and drive the roll 9 removing of the shift forks and then withdraw the fork shafts. When

drive the pin the 4th/5th shift fork roll pin, shift to 5th gear and then

out.

10 Remove the bearing retainer. gear from 11. Remove the mainshaft gear assembly and main drive by tapping the the transmission case towards the final drive gear side

102

Chapter 6/Transmission

main drive gear lightly. 12 Remove the countershaft

and gear assembly,

fork and the 4th/5th shift fork.

the 2nd/3rd

shift

13 Remove the mainshaft locknut. 14 From the mainshaft remove the 4th/5th synchronizer, 4th gear, main gear bush, main gear spacer, 3rd gear, main gear needle bearing, main gear bush, 2nd/3rd synchronizer, 2nd gear, main gear needle bearing, main gear bush, reverse gear and bearing housing in that order; see Fig. 6.17. 15 If necessary remove the mainshaft bearing with a puller. If the bearing is removed it should be discarded and a new bearing fitted at reassembly.

a ee

sO ix

Eee ay Of

a

16 Transmission (5-speed) — reassembly a 1 Press the mainshaft bearing onto the shaft. 2 Insert the bearing outer race into the bearing housing, then fit the bearing housing and reverse gear on the mainshaft. Ensure that the cut out part of the reverse gear is aligned with the 2nd main gear bush. 3 Fit the 2nd gear bush, needle bearing, 2nd main gear, baulk ring, 2nd/3rd synchro-hub assembly and the 3rd main gear bush. When fitting the 3rd main gear bush ensure that the claw is lined up with the main gear spacer. When fitting the 2nd/3rd synchro-hub, the thinner spline tooth side must be towards the 3rd gear; see Figs. 6.18 and 6.19. 4 Fit the needle bearing, baulk ring, 3rd gear and main gear spacer. When fitting the main gear spacer ensure that the uneven surface side is towards the 4th gear.

Fig. 6.16. Removing the taper roller bearing (Sec. 15) 5 and 6 7 sion

Fit the 4th gear bush, 4th gear, baulk ring, 4th/5th synchro-hub mainshaft locknut. Tighten and then stake the locknut. Fit the differential side flange oil seals. Fit the main drive gear and mainshaft assembly into the transmiscase and at the same time insert the 2nd/3rd shift fork, 4th/5th

shift fork and counter gear with thrust washer into the case.

8

Slide the 2nd/3rd fork shaft through the casing and the 2nd/3rd

shift fork, then secure it to the shift fork with a new roll pin. 9 Fit the 2nd/3rd detent ball, spring and plug. Align the notch in the 2nd/3rd shaft with the ball and place in neutral position.

10

Insert the interlock

Fig. 6.17. Exploded view of transmission gear assembly (5-speed) (Sec. 15) Primary drive gear Primary idler gear Sub gear Main drive input gear Main drive gear Baulk ring Spread spring Coupling sleeve DBANDAAARWHA Shifting insert Synchronizer hub 4th main gear 4th gear bushing Main gear spacer 3rd main gear

2nd main gear Reverse main gear

Main shaft Final gear 1st main gear Counter gear 1 st-reverse counter gear Reverse idler gear Reverse idler input gear

plunger

between

2nd/3rd

and 4th/5th

fork

103

Chapter 6/Transmission hafts then fit the 4th/Sth fork shaft. 11 Fit the countershaft needle bearing and bearing retainer. 12 With a suitable selected shim fit the differential unit in the casing. r 13 Fit the 1st gear needle bearing, Ist gear, baulk ring, synchronize with gear counter 1st/reverse washer, retainer fork, assembly, 1st shift yall bearing, reverse idler input gear with ball bearing and washer,

reverse idler gear and reverse shift fork at the same time and then fit the taper roller bearing using 2 suitable drift. Ensure that the claw on

the reverse idler input gear washer is pointed towards the bottom cover and that the counter gear thrust washer is set as shown in Figs.

6.20 and 6.21. 14 Insert the interlock plinger between 2nd/3rd and 1st/reverse fork

shafts and fit the 1st/reverse fork shaft.

15 Measure the 1st/reverse counter gear bearing height H, in Fig. 6.22 and select the required number of shims from the following table: Available shim thickness

Height ‘H’ in (mm) 3,472 3.465 3.457 3.449 16

Claw

> Fig. 6.18. Fitting the 3rd main gear bush (Sec. 16)

2nd gear side

:

to to to to

3.480 3.471 3.464 3.456

(88.20 (88.00 (87.80 (87.60

to to to to

88.40) 88.19) 87.99) 87.79)

Required

Number

thickness in (mm) O 0.008 (0.2) 0.016 (0.4) 0.024 (0.6)

of shims

0 1 Z 3

Determine the mainshaft bearing shim thickness as follows: a)

b) c)

Fit the bearing outer race on the mainshaft bearing and measure dimension ‘Bin Fig. 6.23. Measure depth of mainshaft bearing outer race housing of case cover, ‘A in Fig. 6.24. The required thickness of adjusting shim required can be determined by the formula, T =A-—B8 + 0.5. T — Required thickness of mainshaft bearing adjusting shim

(mm)

A — Measured case cover depth (mm). B —~ Measured mainshaft bearing height (mm)

3rd gear side

TUT LT

ar pe A tae

Fig. 6.22.

Measure

the 1st/reverse counter

gear bearing height

(Sec. 16)

2a ee

ead eee a

16) Fig. 6.23. Mainshaft bearing height (Sec.

Fig. 6.24. Case cover depth (Sec. 16)

104 a

Chapter 6/Transmission eh i ed me ele

Select the required shim from the following.

19

an

With the fork shafts in neutral positions, fit the case cover on the

transmission case. Do not forget to fit the 1st shift fork detent ball.

Available shims in (mm) Thickness

0.0012 0.0019 0.0028 0.0039

lee

(0.03) (0.05) (0.07) (0.1)

0.0118 (0.3) 0.0197 (0.5) 0.0276 (0.7)

0.0354 (0.9) 17 Fit the selected mainshaft bearing adjusting shim onto the case cover and press the mainshaft bearing outer race completely into the

case cover. 18 Attach with grease the counter thrust bush to 1st/reverse counter gear, and the thrust washer and selected shims to the case cover.

20

Fit the differential side flanges and primary gear.

17

Gearchange linkage — removal, inspection and refitting

1

Remove

the bolts which

secure

the gear lever to its mounting

bracket. Take out the split pin and remove the circlip which secures the control rod to the gear lever (photo). 2 Remove the bolts which secure the radius link assembly to the transmission case cover, then remove the circlip to free the radius link assembly from the subframe (photo). 3 Remove the bolts that secure the select lever to the tranmission case cover and detach the selector lever from the transmission case cover. Take out the pin that secures the shift rod to the lever and. detach the shift rod from the lever. Withdraw the control linkage from the vehicle.

Oe

17.1

Removing the control rod from the gear

lever

Fig. 6.25. Attach the thrust washer (1) and selected shims (2) with grease (Sec. 16)

17.2 Remove the bolts securing radius link assembly to the transmission casing

£ a> io)

~

Movement

of control shaft (On transmission side)

—

as

MS

Shift-pattern

Movement

E> case

of contro] tod

|shive pattern Select pattern

Fig. 6.26. Gearchange linkage (4-sp eed transmission) (Sec. 1) 1 Shift lever 2 Select rod 3 Select lever

4 Radius link 5 Shift rod

6 Hand lever 7 Control rod

105

Chapter 6/Transmission

Shift pattern

Fig.

6.27. Gearchange linkage (5speed transmission) (Sec. 17)

Select lever Shift lever Shift rod Shift lever Select rod Select lever Radius link Control rod Hand lever OMANDAAWN™

8 mm (0.31 in)

Fig. 6.28. Gearchange linkage

s such Each linkage is securely retained with various fastener 4 they that so taken be should care Special as washers and circlips. when reconnecting may be reinstated in exactly the same location the linkage.

adjustment (4-speed transmission) (Sec. 18)

wear, corrosion or Inspect all the linkage components for general 5 it is recomlinkage the in apparent is ss sloppine distortion. If general renewed as a matter mended that all the circlips, springs and clips are

1 Select lever 2 Shift lever 3 Select rod

of course. procedures, Installation of the linkage is a reversal of the removal 6 points: g noting the followin radius link assembly O-rings are fitted between the shift lever and 7 and between gear lever and control rod. lubricated with multiThe O-rings and radius link bosses should be

4 Shift rod 5 Adjusting nuts

purpose grease. also be greased. 8 The shift lever and selector lever should

18

) — adjustment Gear change linkage (4-speed transmission

and loosen the adjusting Set the hand lever to the neutral position 1 nuts fully. clearance between the Under this condition, measure the initial 2 ‘A’ in Fig. 6.28, when the or, protect and cover case ission transm ission case. protector is pushed fully into the transm to increase the clearance by Now relocate the protector in order 3.

r8 mm

(0.31 in)

Fig. 6.29. Gearchange (5linkage adjustment speed 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

transmission)

(Sec. 19)

Nut Nut Nut Nut Shift lever Select lever

Hand lever guide plate Detent pin Trunnion

106

Chapter 6/Transmission

0.31 in (8 mm) over the initial clearance ‘A’, and then shift the hand lever into the 4th gear position. 4 Pull down on the selector lever and tighten the adjusting nuts.

cover, move it back 0.31

in (8 mm), then move the shift lever (5) down

19

Gear change linkage (5-speed transmission) — adjustm ent

so that 3rd gear is selected. 3 Push the select lever (6) fully down so that the hand lever guide plate (7) touches the detent pin (8). Turn the nut (3) in until it comes in contact with the trunnion (9), then screw it in a further 1 — 2 turns and lock nut (3) with nut (4).

1

Refer to Fig. 6.29 and loosen nuts (1), (2), (3) and (4).

Shift adjustment

Select adjustment 2

20

With the shift lever (5) moved fully towards the transmission case

4 Move the hand lever into neutral. 5 Adjust dimension ‘B’ of the hand lever assembly to between 0.039 and 0.079 in (1 and 2 mm) and then tighten nuts (1) and (2).

Fault diagnosis — Transmission

Symptom Reason/s e Remedy e ee ee Reet ’

Gearbox Obstructive gearchange

When difficulty in changing gear is encountered, it is necessary to determ

ine whether the transmission or the remote contro/ system is causing the trouble. If this condition is accompanied by a draggi ng clutch, trouble may be due to failure of clutch to disengage. Under such conditions, check to ensure that it couples or uncouples the engine and transmission properly. If upon inspection the clutch is in good condition, then check the cause of trouble to determine whether the transmission or the remote control system is causing trouble. Control linkage out of adjustment or lack of Re-adjust or lubricate. lubrication to balljoint. Failure of parts to reach their full measu rement Check and, if necessary, due to worn sliding contact surfaces Or excessive worn parts. free-play Improper contact pattern of baulk ring-to-gear Renew worn parts. cone or worn parts Worn or deformed insert

repair

or

renew

Renew.

Jumping out of gear

Jumping out of gear is often exper ienced when wear occurs to the interlock plunger, steel ball, locking spring, etc., or when the contro l linkage is out of adjustment. Interlock plunger worn Steel ball worn, or locking spring fatigued broken Worn groove in shift rod Gear tip worn or damaged Bushes worn Excessive end play Mainshaft mounting nut loose

Excessive noise

or

Renew Renew faulty parts.

Renew. Renew gear. Renew. Renew faulty parts. Re-tighten

Noise in the transmission

indicates a fault if it is heard when the engine is running speed or when gears are shift at idling ed from one speed position to another, and if it ceases when

Lack of lubricating oil or use of improper oil Bearing worn (humming at a high speed travel). Bearing damaged (rattling noise at a low speed

travel).

Worn splines Gear contact surfaces damaged

Oil leakage or insufficient oil due to damaged oil seal or gaske t, or clogged breather.

Lubricate or use recommen ded Renew. Renew.

Renew worn shaft or gear. Renew damaged gears. Clean or renew,

Gearchange linkage

Failure of gears to mesh or hard to mesh gears

Jumping out of gear

Control

linkage

out

of adjustment

lubricating oil to ball joint).

(or lack of

Excessive free-play to worn control linkage

Control linkage out of adju stment Excessive free-play — due to worn control linkage

Re-adjust or lubricate. Check and correct.

Re-adjust. Repair or renew faulty parts,

lubricant.

ee

l eee e e E Reason/s

Symptom drag Gearlever respond quickly

or

107

Chapter 6/Transmission

failure

of

Shifting noise

gearlever

to

Remedy

Control rod deformed or bent

Repair or renew.

Lack of oil to sliding contacts or sliding resistance excessive owing to deformed parts

Lubricate, repair, or renew, as required.

Worn bearing or excessive free-play in linkage Interference of lever, link, etc, with adjacent

Repair or renew. Repair.

parts

Final drive Damage to final drive

Abnormal noise when steering

Excessive gear noise

part for condition. Renew any damaged parts. Also check every possible

Improper backlash in final gear Excessive backlash in differential gear Final gear mounting bolt loose Damage due to overloading

Renew final gear. Renew differential gear or thrust washer. Re-tighten. Renew damaged parts.

Differential gear damaged Thrust washer worn excessively or damaged Pinion main shaft damaged Side bearing seized or damaged

Renew. Renew. Renew. Renew.

ed in transmission gears (including primary gear), To clearly determine whether noise is produc and locate cause of noise in the following check body, or engine, wheel bearings, tyres, manner: at a constant speed, accelerating engine as Run the vehicle at a creeping speed and then a) ry. necessa of engine with top gear selected. After cause b) Jack-up front portion of vehicle, and run e parts. defectiv replace or repair to re procedu tic trouble is located, use a systema Improper backlash in final gear Final gear tooth tip damaged Side bearing seized, broken or damaged Oil leakage (or lack of oil) due to defective seal or gasket.

oil

Renew final gear. Renew final gear. Renew. Renew faulty parts.

Chapter 7 Driveshafts Contents

Constant velocity joint (inner) — dismantling Constant velocity joint (inner) — inspection andreassembly ..... Constant velocity joint (outer) — removal and (UMAMMNG) om ae oleh. Driveshaft — reassembly and LOLI OS enone ge om. 0 casts eee rye

Driveshaft — removal General description Routine maintena@nge

5 6

So aiidelinSindee

tes curs eee

vc

ee. 1

alae

Gee

ea ee ee

Oe

3 ee

Specifications

Driveshaft IOS TOHDAV RO mtaptng yyexmen- dake dicne ned 46 two eee ee DOISEHOMIGEV DOR aati Nec caiseoe stir nines -bactls Mere de te

Maximum

swivel movement

Double offset joint RGA OMI. Noten

ges yrstags

Nin

Frocks

ih, sale pap

wit dmg,

«MAMIE

Ibf ft OE OMIA

Yee

driveshaft

is supported

on two ball bearings mounted

back

to back, and is splined to the wheel hub. 2 Constant velocity (CV) joints are incorp orated at each end of the driveshafts. The joint at the wheel end of the shaft provides a forty-two degree swivel movement, while the double offset type of joint at the other

end of the shaft allows fora movement of twenty degrees. 3. The outer universal joints are of the Birfield constant velocity type. The driveshaft fits inside the circular outer CV joint which is also the driven shaft. Drive is transmitted from the driveshaft to the driven shaft by six steel balls which are located in curved grooves machined in line with the axis of the shaft on the inside of the driven shaft and Outside of the driveshaft. This allows the driven shaft to hinge freely on the driveshaft, but at the same time keeps them together. Enclosing the CV joint is a rubber boot.

Routine maintenance

1 At intervals of 6000 miles (10 000 km) inspect the rubber boots which protect the constant veloci ty joints. If they are torn, split or show signs of deterioration they should be renewed as soon as possible. When the boot splits the CV joint becomes contaminat ed by water, road dust and grit, which soon results in rapid failure of the bearings in the joint. 2 Wear in the joints is detected by a regular knocking when the front wheels are turned on full lock. In very severe Cases it is only necessary to turn the wheels slightly for the noise to begin.

3

87-116 29-36

Driveshaft — removal

1 Remove the wheel trim from the wheel from which the drive shaft is to be removed.

kgf m

12-16 4-5

2 Place the car in gear and apply the handbr ake firmly. Extract the split pin from the hub nut, and undo and remove the nut and thrust washer.

General description

1 Power is transmitted to the front wheels by two driveshafts which are carried by knuckle arms attached to the lower ends of the struts. Each

2

20° 42°

iticihat sen rieeatg eeaadel cam Aance

Torque wrench settings NAMICGNUD UGE

1

Double offset joint

Birfield joint

3 Loosen the front roadwheel Securing nuts and jack-up the car on the same side. 4 Asit willbe necessary to work undern eath the car, supplement the jack with a stand or support blocks. This will minimise the danger should the jack collapse. 5 Remove the roadwheel. 6 Remove the bolts which secure the driveshaft to the final drive assembly, then use the subframe to support the detached driveshaft. 7 It will now be possible to partially free the end of the driveshaft from the centre of the hub. With a soft drift and hammer tap the end of the shaft until it is seen to move inwar ds slightly. Sometimes the shaft can be completely removed this way but great care must be taken or thesplines, bearings or oil seals will be damaged. If the resistance to the initial taps is significant it is better to obtain a special tool from your Datsun agent (ST35100000). 8 Place the special screwing in the removal tool, but take care not to damage the oil seals, 9 Inspect the driveshaft for disto rtion, corrosion or cracks. Repla ce if

necessary.

4

Constant velocity joint (inner) - dismantling

1 The double offset type of const ant velocity joint used at the final drive end of the driveshaft can be dismantled if defective parts are to be renewed. 2 Place the driveshaft in a vice equipped with soft jaws. Expa nd and remove the band which secu res the rubber boot, and remo ve the boot from the joint. 3 Use a screwdriver to prise off the retaining ring and with draw the flanged outer

ring of the joint (Fig.7.4) You will also need to remove the sealing plate from the other end of the joint. 4 Wipe grease from the ball cage and take Out the ball bearings. Rotate the cage by approxim ately half a turn, and deta ch it from the

2

On

ERT

RCSUERTE

AR

inner ring. Take off the retaining circlip, using a pair of circlip pliers, and with5 draw the inner ring of the joint by lightly tapping it with a soft-faced mallet.

Finally, withdraw the flanged outer ring and the rubber boot.

6

109

Chapter 7/Driveshafts

A

a Constant velocity joint (inner) — inspection and reassembly 5 a 1 Thoroughly clean all the component parts of the joint by washing in paraffin.

Examine each ball in turn for cracks, flat spots, or signs ofsurface 2 pitting. be The cage which fits between the inner and outer races must 3 which are examined for wear in the ball cage windows and for cracks

between the especially likely to develop across the narrower portions outer rims and the holes for the balls. inner and Wear is most likely to be found in the ball tracks on the 4 be a longer no will balls the widened have tracks outer races. If the windows, tight fit and, together with excessive wear in the ball cage

will lead to the characteristic ‘knocking’ on full lock described

pre-

viously. \|f wear 5

as a

is excessive

then

all the parts must

be renewed

Fig. 7.1 Exploded view of driveshaft assembly

1 2

3 4 5 6

Outside joint (B irfield joint) Band Dust cover Band Inner ring Cage

assembly

7 8 9 10

Ball Outer ring Plug

Inside joint assembly (Double offset joint)

4) Fig. 7.4 Prising off the retaining ring (Sec.

4) Fig. 7.5 Taking out the ball bearings (Sec.

Fig. 7.6 Removing

the inner ring retaining

circlip with circlip pliers (Sec. 4)

110

Chapter 7/Driveshafts

Fig. 7.7 Tightening the boot retaining band (Sec. 7)

Fig. 7.8 Locking the boot retaining band with a punch (Sec. 7)

matched set. 6 Examine the rubber boot and renew if there is evidence of splits, wear or deformation. It is sound policy to renew it anyway since it could save another strip later on. 7 Reassembly is a reversal of the dismantling procedure.

end of the joint smartly with a soft faced hammer in order to close the circlip completely. Tap the joint until it is fully home with the inner race resting against the large retaining clip. The circular section circlip should now have expanded inside the joint. 6

Secure

the

rubber

boot,

and

refit

asdescribed in Section 7. ee ee — e

6 Constant velocity joint (outer) — removal and refitting eee 1 If the Birfield joint assembly shows any sign of rust or excessive play the joint should be renewed. 2 Remove the driveshaft as described in Section 3. 3 The next task is to remove the joint from the driveshaft. First remove the boot by expanding the clips and then easing it back from the joint. Remove the joint by tapping the outer edge of the CV joint with a hide or plastic headed hammer. The CV joint is held to the shaft by an internal circular section circlip and tapping the joint in the manner described forces the circlip to contract into a groove so allowing the joint to slide off. Remove the boot. 4 At this stage it is just as well to fit a new boot, since it might well Save a major operation later on. Slide the boot over the shaft and do not secure at this stage. Obtain a new CV joint and ensure that it is packed with the correct molybdenum disulphide compoun d grease. 5 Fit the CV joint onto the shaft the correct way round and with the joint pressing against the circlip. Contract the circlip right into its groove in the shaft with the aid of two screwdrivers, so the inner race of the CV joint will slide over. It may be necessary to tap the outside

_

7

the

driveshaft

to

the

car,

—_——————————

Driveshaft — reassembly and refitting

ee eeeeeeeeeSSSSSSSSSSSSSFSseseFs 1 Assembly is a reversal of the dismantling procedures. Tie the band

twice round the rubber boot before tightening it with screwdriver and pliers, as shown in Fig. 7.7. A punch should be used to lock the clip to the band and then the band should be secured by bending it over. The width of the band should be used as a guide to determine how much to bend over. Exercise great care in securing the band, not to scratch the boot. When renewing grease, take great care to prevent the ingress of dirt or other foreign matter into the joint. 2 When installing the driveshafts make sure that the lips of the oil seals are lubricated with multi-purpose grease and are not damaged on installation. The driveshaft can be tapped into position with a hammer until the threads are sufficiently exposed, but the flange of the shaft should be protected with a soft pad so that the seal plate does not suffer damage 3 When fitting the driveshaft attaching bolts ensure that the nuts are to the driveshaft side. Fit the correct bolts.

4 Tighten the wheel hub nut to 87-116 Ibf ft (12-16 kgf m) and the driveshaft attaching bolts to 29-36 Ibf ft (4-5 kgf m)

Chapter 8 Steeringe ea eae eee

ee

N Contents

ope

2 25 7c Slo eerie EAU CIACHIOSIS® 28. facts General description!

ee

es

ee

ee

ee

ee Gas ere tresses oa 2. ee

.....-----+++++++55 Rack-and-pinion assembly —inspection .... Rack-and-pinion and tie-rods— reassembly and adjustment

Steering Steering Steering Steering Steering Steering

10 11

9 8

eee eres -..-------+++eeer Rack-and-pinion—dismantling Rack-and-pinion unit — removal and refitting ......---++++-: Steering column assembly — dismantling, inspection

Specifications

5 3 2 7 ,6 2

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uence

=

=

e

S MD

ie le) Sa

oo naelcgec oh TI

4

el we

ee

Eee

eee

osc:

ee eee column assembly — refitting .......++ssses column assembly — removal ...--.-.++++ 2220000 .....-+--+-+++seeee: lock — removal andrefitting err eees -.+ ++ seer .....mechanism —inspection on. empleo tie-rod outer balljoint — removal and refitting wheel — removal andrefitting ...--..+++:sssss00:

ANCTEASSEMIDIV ae ivr cee

ellTes 13 1 ee

Rack-and-pinion

Steering gear ratio

18:1

Steering wheel turns (lock to lock) ...-.-------+s+++0

3.2

Turning angle of front wheel:

38° 00’ 322° 30°

Inside Outside

15.7 ft (4.8m)

Minimum turning radius

0-1.4 in (0— 35 mm)

Steering wheel free play eye, Rae laa

UN

EA

2 oe

TUMStCRUGSS MIRERRE

cs

se

age

ees

2.6 in (65 mm).

a ee

ate

ee

ee es

ee

Retainer spring:

0.720 in (18.3 mm) 55.1 Ib (25 kg) x 0.591 in (15 mm)

Free length Load x length

Tie-rod inner balljoint: Swing torque on ASEAN GARG

1.1 —5.4 Ibfft(0.15

wee

oi

Tie-rod outer balljoint: Swing torque OE

ET

ee

Satine aka UAV.

fo

> oo 6 ol

a REC).

a

Pt

enemmergs nay agen

ea

el.

ace

+ peeing

At

— 0.75 kgf m)

Oin (O mm)

a

0.36 — 1.1 Ibfft(0.05 — 0.15 kgf m) 0 in (0 mm)

ee ce

less than 0.0118

in (0.3 mm)

less than 17 Ibf in (20 kgf cm)

Pinion rotary torque

33-66 Ibs (15-30 kg)

Force to pull rack

Torque wrench settings

Ibf ft

ere

~

30 000 miles (50 000 km)

eeer

ict Ay = - cris iter wheel Mitiar Column clamp bolt Upper joint shaft to column bolt g ent cement Lower jaintto pinion bolty. 2. j-- Hc ee en © ens e t i c os as Se ie rad aE e ees e e --... Fault diagnOgis et: ahem a. cee i, wee fo Flexible brake hoses — inspection, removal and retttingime suesa. Profit brake pads renewal”;

Detail ‘D’ 7 2

3. 4.

To washer motor To fan motor

Detail ‘EF’

158

ENGINE

HARNESS

B

INSTRUMENT

Fig. 10.53

Engine compartment

harness

— 100A F-11 (Europe)

:

HARNESS

Detail F’

GLGBLRLY B WB LY LRGB

Bud

To engine bay harness To instrument harness To brake indicator switch To alternator harness To engine bay harness DANRWBHm To alternator

LWRRL

GL

a ace YW YW

RLWR L

* wee ae

oe ee

G B4yRWRBBY

BY RBRW BK,G

ENGINE ROOM HARNESS

DETAIL" F’’

Detail ‘H’ Earth To horn

To headlamp (RH) To side turn signal lamp (RH) QAA&SMs To front combination lamp (RH) ALTERNATOR

DETAIL “H”

HARNESS

159 o~

Fig.

10.53

Engine

compartment

harness

ENGINE HARNESS B 4

—

Le “€

100A F-II (Europe) — continued Detail ‘G" 1

To fusible link

2 To engine bay harness / ue rai harness B o condenser

5

To voltage regulator

6

To fan relay

7 8

Tohorn relay To ignition coil

ae

R

7

To washer motor

Tofan motor To headlamp (LH) To side turn signal lamp (LH) To front combination lamp (LH)

thermal transmitter distributor starter motor oil pressure switch reverse lamp switch

“ENGINE BOOM HARNESS

DETAIL

wh” G

DETAIL