Haynes Austin Allegro 1500/1750 Owners Workshop Manual 0856961655, 9780856961656

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Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2023 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

https://archive.org/details/austinallegro1500000hayn

Austin Allegro Ib500/1750 Owners

Workshop

Manual by J H Haynes

Associate Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and B L Chalmers-Hunt TEng (CEI), AMIMI, AMIRTE, AMVBRA

Models covered

Allegro Allegro Allegro Allegro ISBN

1500 1500 1750 1750

0 85696

Super De Luxe 1485 cc Special 1485 cc Sport 1748 cc Sport Special 1748 cc 165

5

© JH Haynes and Company Limited 1974 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in

any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in England

JH HAYNES AND COMPANY LIMITED SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET ENGLAND distributed in the USA by

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS INC. 9421 WINNETKA AVENUE CHATSWORTH LOS ANGELES CALIFORNIA 91311

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to BLMC Limited for the provision of technical information and certain illustrations; and to Castrol Limited, who provided lubrication details.

About this manual

who

Special thanks are due to all of those people at Sparkford helped in the production of this manual and to Stanley

Randolph who planned the layout of each page.

UGoubesnt S

~-

Its aims This is a manual for the do-it-yourself minded Allegro owners. It shows how to maintain these cars in first class condition, and how to carry out repairs when components become worn or break. By doing all maintenance and repair work themselves owners will gain three ways: they will know the job has been done properly; they will have had the satisfaction of doing the job themselves; and they will have saved garage labour charges which, although quite fair bearing in mind the high cost of capital equipment and skilled men, can be as high as £3.50 an hour. Regular and careful maintenance is essential if maximum reliability and minimum wear are to be achieved. The author has stripped, overhauled, and rebuilt all the major mechanical and electrical assemblies and most of the minor ones as well. Only through working in this way can solutions be found to the sort of problems facing private owners. Other hints and tips are also given which can only be obtained through practical experience. The step-by-step photographic strip and rebuild sequences show how each of the major components was removed, taken apart, and rebuilt. In conjunction with the text and exploded illustrations this should make all the work quite clear - even to the novice who has never previously attempted the more complex job.

Manufacturers’

official

manuals

are

usually

splendid

publications which contain a wealth of technical information. Because they are issued primarily to help the manufacturers’

authorised dealers and distributors they tend to be written in very technical language, and tend to skip details of certain jobs which are common knowledge to garage mechanics. Haynes

owner‘’s workshop manuals are different as they are intended primarily to help the owner, and therefore contain details of all sorts of jobs not normally found in official manuals. Owners who intend to do their own maintenance and repairs should have a reasonably comprehinsive tool kit. Some jobs require special service tools, but in many instances it is possible to get round their use with a little care and ingenuity. For example a ‘Jubilee’ clip makes a most efficient and cheap piston ring compressor. Throughout this manual ingenious ways of avoiding the use of special equipment and tools are shown. In some cases the proper tool must be used.

When a component malfunctions garage repairs are becoming more and more a case of replacing the defective item with an exchange rebuilt unit. This is excellent practice when a component is thoroughly worn out, but it is a waste of good money when overall the component is only half worn, and requires the replacement of but a single small item to effect a complete repair. As an example, a nonfunctioning starter motor can frequently be repaired quite satisfactorily just by fitting new brushes.

A further function of this manual is to show the owner how to examine malfunctioning parts; determine what is wrong; then how to make the repair. Given the time, mechanical do-it-yourself aptitude, and a reasonable collection of tools this manual will show the enthusiastic owner how to maintain and repair his car really economically with minimum recourse to professional assistance and

expensive

tools

and

equipment.

Using the manual The book is divided into twelve chapters. Each chapter is divided into numbered Sections which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of serially numbered paragraphs.

reference

will be given in Chapter number

and Section number

thus: Chapter 1/16.

(1) Figures which are

If it is considered necessary to refer to a particular paragraph in another Chapter the reference is eg. ‘Chapter ‘1/6:5’. Cross references given without use of the word ‘Chapter’ apply to

numbered according to Chapter and sequence of occurrence in that Chapter and having an individual caption to each figure. (2) Photographs which have a reference number in the bottom left-hand corner. All photographs apply to the Chapter in which

Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter, eg, ‘see Section 8’ means also ‘in this Chapter’. When the left or right-hand side of a car is mentioned it is as if one were looking in the forward direction of travel.

they occur so that the reference figures pinpoint the pertinent Section and paragraph numbers.

this

Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. If it is necessary to refer to another Chapter the

authors and publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, Or Omissions from, the information given.

There are two

types

of illustration:

Whilst

V\

every

manual

\

-

care

is taken to ensure

is correct,

|

=

no

liability

that the information

can

be accepted

in

by the

Contents Chapter

Section

Introductory sections

Buying spare parts Lubrication chart

4 6

Recommended

6

1

Engine

a 2 Cooling system

Page

lubricants

5

Ignition system

Clutch

Reassembly

36

18 32

-Refitting Initial start-up

45 45

Decarbonisation

35

Fault diagnosis

45

EE

53 53 53

Fuel pump Carburettor

58 59

Fuel tank ~=Fault diagnosis

64 67

Contact breaker points

69

Spark plugs

73

Distributor Ignition timing

70 Ue

= Fault diagnosis

75

Bleeding Slave cylinder

77 ~— Overhaul 77 ~~ Release bearing

80 81

Master cylinder

78

83

Thermostat

«88 90 96 106 111

Faults Automatic transmission Removal and replacement Selector cable

123

56

112 116 117 07, 120

= ‘Kick-down’ linkage Selector lever mechanism Fault diagnosis

Constant velocity joint

Driveshaft removal

and replacement Final drive (differential)

eee

49 Water pump belt 50 Water pump 50 Fan motor 51 ~~ Anti-freeze mixture eee

Separation from engine Dismantling Reassembly Refitting to engine Remote control

Driveshafts and universal joints

7, 9

13.

a 6 Transmission Manual gearbox

7

Routine maintenance Jacking up the car

Dismantling Examination and renovation

Refilling Radiator

4

Page

Removal

8 Draining

a. 3 Fuel system and carburation

Section

;

125

Inboard joint

126

Differential housing oil seal

131

wheel and pinion

128

Differential cage bearings

131

Drum brakes adjustment Bleeding

Handbrake Master cylinder

139 143

Drum brake shoes Rear brake wheel cylinder

134 134 135 137

Vacuum servo unit Fault diagnosis

146 151

10 Electrical system

Battery Alternator Starter motor Windscreen wiper Windscreen washer

154 ~~ Lights 155 Switches 155 Fuses 161 Fault diagnosis 164 Wiring diagrams

11 Suspension and steering

Front hubs Front suspension Rear hubs Rear suspension

193. 196 202 202

8

9

Differential, final drive

Braking system

ee

eg

ee

12 Body and fittings

oa

es

ne

ee

een

Maintenance Repairs Doors Bonnet

ee

eee 214 215 219 224

Rack and pinion assembly Steering wheel Steering column Fault diagnosis ee ee eee Boot Bumpers Windscreen Heater ee

Metric Conversion Tables List of illustrations Index

165 169 170 174 176 207 208 209 2| 225 226 227 230 234 236

2

241

Buying spare and vehicle

parts identifion

numbers

Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: BLMC garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare part sources is as follows: Officially appointed BLMC garages: This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your car and are otherwise not generally available (eg. complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place

at which warranty; To

be

you should buy parts if your car is still under non BLMC components may invalidate the warranty.

sure

of

obtaining

the

correct

parts

it will

always

be

necessary to give the storeman your car’s engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the ‘old part along for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on a factory exchange scheme - any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops: These are often very good places to buy materials and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fan belts, oils and greases, touch-up paint, filler paste etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home.

Motor important clutch

factors: Good factors will components which wear out

components,

pistons,

cylinders/pipes/hoses/seals/shoes

valves,

and

stock all the more relatively quickly (eg

exhaust’

systems,

pads etc). Motor

brake

factors

will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis - this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers When ordering spare parts it is essential to give full details ot your car to the storeman. He will want to know the commission, car and engine numbers. When ordering parts for the transmission unit or body it is also necessary to quote the transmission casing and body numbers.

Commission number: Located on a plate mounted on the right-hand side of the bonnet lock platform. Car number: Located on a plate mounted on the right-hand side of the bonnet lock platform. Engine number:Stamped on the cylinder block or on a metal plate secured to the cylinder block between the ignition coil and distributor.

Body number:

Stamped on a plate fixed to the left-hand side

of the bonnet lock platform. When obtaining new parts remember

that many

assemblies

can be exchanged. This is very much cheaper than buying them outright and throwing away the old part. Normally parts used in the Factory Exchange Unit Scheme covers practically every major assembly on any BLMC car marketed in the last ten years. The following units are available under this scheme.

Engine and ancillaries Clutches

Transmission units Braking system units Steering gears Instruments Electrical units Bumper bars Fuel pumps Heaters

an

en

PR

“

In

ae

Allegro 1750 Sport

Recommended

lubricants and fluids

Component

Castrol Product

Engine/final drive/gearbox (manual and automatic) Steering rack

oa

bie

ae

Steering linkage joints and swivel pins Rear wheel

bearings

Handbrake cable Foot

ne 2

es

st

Castrol GTX

at

ae

Castrol Hypoy

ox

a

Castrol

LM Grease

oi

ax

a

“ies

Bi

=

ore

Castrol

LM Grease

as

Ss

or

es .

sic

i

ae

Castrol

LM Grease

1

ay.

ae

Castrol GTX

ei

Age

ee

Castrol Girling Universal Brake and Clutch

pedal bearings and handbrake

Braking and clutch hydraulic systems

linkages -

Fluid

Routine maintenance Introduction 1 In the schedule that follows this introduction the routine maintenance that should be carried out is tabulated. Routine maintenance has two important functions: First, is that of making adjustments and lubricating those parts which require it to ensure the least wear and greatest efficiency. But the second function, could almost be the more important. By looking over your car on top and underneath, you have the opportunity to check that all is in order. 2 Every compartment should be looked at, working systematically over the whole car. Dirt cracking near a nut or

flange can indicate something as

will

damaged

electric

cables

paintwork

loose. Leaks will show up Clearly,

rubbing

or underseal.

and

rust

appearing

through

All these things, and more,

shouid be found before they bring on a failure on the road, or on expensive repair.

3

The

tasks

to

be

done

on

the

car

are

in

general

those

recommended by the manufacturer. We have also put in some additional ones. For someone having his servicing done at a garage

it may

be more economical

to purchase, and fit, a new or

reconditioned component. Your garage proprietor has many things to consider when giving you a quote for any work, (eg. labour costs, availability of his labour force, overheads etc) - you may

therefore

make

considerable

savings

in

time

and

costs

provided you know you are capable of tackling the job and are Prepared to do it. To leave an obviously

developing fault ‘until

the next service’ may prove costly and even disastrous- do it now! 4 When you are checking the car, if something looks wrong, look it up in the appropriate Chapter. If something seems to be working badly look in the releWant fault finding sections, {0.0

5 Always road-test after a repair. Then re-inspect yourwork 22, 10 checking nuts etc. for tightness. Check ‘egainafter about 150 °>

miles (250 km).

;

Tools 1 The most This has one Alternatively

useful type of spanner is a combination spanner. end open jaw, the other a ring of the same size. a set of open ended and ring spanners will be

required. Whenever

possible use a ring spanner as it will not slip

off the nut or bolt specially when very tight. Remember metric sized tools will be required in many cases. 2 You will need a set of feeler gauges. Preferably these should be metric sizes but if an imperial set are to hand the equivalents are quoted throughout this manual. 3 You will see we specify tightening torques for many nuts. This needs a relatively expensive torque wrench. Many people get on well without them, although others are plagued by things falling off or leaking from being too loose, or suffer broken bolts, stripped threads, or warped cylinder heads, through overtightening. 4 Torque wrenches use the socket of normal socket spanner sets. Sockets, with exteriors and ratchet handles, are a boon. In

the meantime you will need box spanners for such things as cylinder head attachments, and the spark plugs. They are thinner than sockets in small sizes, and will often go where the latter cannot, so will always be useful even if later you also purchase sockets.

5 Screwdrivers should have large handles for a good grip; you need large ordinary small ‘electrical’ and medium cross-headed types. Do not purchase one handle with interchangeable heads. The large screwdriver must have a tough handle that will take hitting

with a hammer when you misuse it as a chisel.

You can use an adjustable spanner and a self-grip or pipe wrench of the mole or stillsons type. 7 With these tools you will get by. Do not purchase cheap ones but be prepared to spend a little extra. They will last far longer.

8 If you undertake major dismantling of the engine and transmission you will need a drift. This is a steel or soft/metal rod about 3/8 in (9.53 mm) in diameter. Where possible use a steel drift which will withstand hammering.Do not use brass as little chips can fly off, unknowingly get into the component and ruin it. You will need a ‘ball pein’ hammer, fairly heavy too,

because it is easier to use a heavy hammer one hard. 9

gently, than a light

Files are soon needed. The four listed make a good selection:

6 inch half round smooth 8 inch flat second cut 8 inch round second cut 10 inch half round bastard. 10 You will need a good, firm, hydraulic jack. A trolley jack is of major value when removing any of the major units. If you do ever get one, it must be in addition too and cannot replace the simple jack, which is needed for the smaller jobs. 11 The manufacturers base their own servicing operations on a

3,000 mile (5000km) interval basis with a comprehensive service every 6,000 miles (10,000 km). 12 The maintenance procedure for more complicated tasks is not detailed in this Section - as full information, where necessary,

will be found in the appropriate Chapters of this book.

Routine maintenance

8

i

Daily Check Check Check Check other Check Check Check

coolant level engine transmission oil level battery electrolyte level tyre pressures. Examine tread depth and generally for signs of damage. operation of all lights windscreen washer fluid level brake and clutch master cylinder reservoir hydraulic

12,000 miles (20,000 km) or 12 months interval Carry out 6,000 miles service with the exception of items 2, 14 and 15 plus: 28 Clean and reset spark plugs 29 Check tightness of engine mountings and all attachments 30 Check operation of starter cable attachments

the tightness of all

31 Check tightness of door locks, catches and hinges

Weekly Check tightness of road wheel nuts

35 Check HT leads for damage and secure connections

Also check ignition LT leads for security

3,000 miles (5,000 km) or 3 months interval Carry out daily and weekly service plus: Check water pump drive belt tension and adjust if necessary. Check steering and suspension systems for oil leaks. Check steering unit joints for security, backlash and gaiter WN

(oil seal) condition.

oa

and

32 Check steering assembly attachments for security 33 Check operation of brake vacum servo unit 34 Tune engine using electronic test equipment

fluid levels

4

motor

Visually inspect brake hydraulic pipes and unions for signs of chafing, leaks and corrosion. Check brake pedal travel and handbrake operation. Adjust as

36,000 miles (60,000km) or 3 years interval Carry out 12,000 miles service, plus: Fit new brake servo filter element. 36 Discuss with BLMC garage advisability of changing all brake hydraulic seals and fluid.

Other aspects of Routine Maintenance

necessary. 6 7 8

Check operation of horns and windscreen wipers. Check specific gravity of battery electrolyte. Check headlight beam alignment and reset as necessary. 9 Clean windscreen wiper blades and renew if worn or perished. 1 0 Visually inspect clutch hydraulic pipes and unions for signs of chafing, leaks or corrosion.

11 Check exhaust system for security and also for leaks. 12 Check condition and security of seats and seat belts.

6,000 miles (10,000 km) or 6 months interval Carry out 3,000 miles service with the exception of service item 7 plus:

1

Wheel nuts

These should be cleaned and lightly smeared with grease as necessary during work, to keep them moving easily. If the nuts are stubborn to undo due to dirt and overtightening, it may be necessary to hold them by lowering the jack until the wheel rests on the ground. Normally if the wheel brace is used across the hub centre, a foot or knee held against the tyre will prevent the wheel from turning, and so save the wheels and nuts from wear if the nuts are slackened with weight on the wheel. After replacing a wheel make a point of later rechecking the nuts again for tightness.

Change engine/transmission unit oil. Fit new filter. Fit new air cleaner element Top-up carburettor piston damper

2

Check carburettor settings and adjust if necessary.

extra strong box or piece of timber underneath onto which the

Fit new engine breather filter

car will fall rather than onto you.

Safety Whenever

(on clutch housing )

even

partially,

under

the

car,

put

an

Carefully OaRWN 7

8 9

examine all cooling system and heater hoses for perishing or leaks. Check hose clip security. Lubricate accelerator control linkage and pedal fulcrum with a little engine oil. Fit new spark plugs Check condition of contact breaker points, renew if necessary. Clean and reset to correct gap.

working,

10 Lubricate distributor parts. 11 Check and reset ignition timing 12 13 14 15 16 17

preferably using a strobe light. Check front wheel alignment and if necessary reset. Lubricate steering and suspension grease nipples. Inspect brake pads and linings for wear, discs and drums for scoring Or wear and remove any dust. Re-adjust drum brakes. Check and if necessary adjust the rear wheel bearing endfloat. Lubricate handbrake mechanical linkage and cables. Lubricate all door, bonnet and boot locks and hinges witha

little engine oil. 18 Check all fuel lines and joints for leakage. Check tightness of

3

Cleanliness

Whenever you do any work allow time for cleaning when some component is in pieces, or parts removed to improve access to other areas, give an opportunity for a thorough clean. This cleanliness will allow you to cope with a crisis on the road without getting yourself too dirty. During bigger jobs when you expect a bit of dirt it is less extreme and can be tolerated at least whilst removing a component. When an item is being taken to pieces there is less risk of ruinous grit finding its way inside. The act of cleaning focuses your attention onto parts and you are more likely to spot trouble. Dirt on the ignition system is a common cause of poor starting. Large areas such as the engine compartment inner wings or bulkhead should be brushed thoroughly with a solvent such as Gunk, allowed to soak and then very carefully hosed down. Water in the wrong places, particularly the carburettor or electrical components will do more harm than dirt. Use petrol or paraffin and a small paintbrush to clean the more inaccessible places.

clips.

19 Check tightness of cylinder head and manifold attachments 20 Check tightness of battery connections. Clean off corrosion and apply vaseline to terminals. 21 Check efficiency of charging system. 22 Clean oil filler cap 23 Clean front and rear suspension attachments for security.

24 If wished, change round the roadwheels in a diagonal manner also using the spare to equalise

wear.

4

Waste disposal

Old oil and cleaning paraffin must be destroyed. Although it makes a good base for a bonfire the practice is dangerous. It is

also illegal to dispose of oil and paraffin down domestic drains. By buying your new engine oil in one gallon cans you can refill with old oil and take back to the local garage who have facilities for disposal or recycling of the oil.

This is not advised if

radial tyres are fitted. 25 Balance front wheels 26 Generally check all electrical cables for damage connections for security. 27 Check engine/transmission unit for oil leaks.

5 and

the

Long journeys

Before taking the car on long journeys, particularly such trips as continental holidays make sure that the car is given a full visual inspection well in advance so that any faults found can be rectified in time.

Important

- Jacking up the car

Serious body distortion can result if Allegro models are not jacked-up correctly. Always abide by the following information.

Standard car jack Front: The jack supplied with the car must be placed under the front slinging bracket at either side of the car with the leg on the top face of the jack registered in the outer hole in the slinging bracket and the lugs of the jack head located around the bracket. Rear:Position the jack under the rear suspension rein-

Workshop jack When using jacking points.

a trolley

jack the following

may

be used

as

Front: a) Suspension wishbones at their outer ends

b) Front

longitudinal reinforcements

using a shaped wooden

block on the jack saddle.

Note: Do not use the front slinging bracket as it will be damaged stopping use of the jack supplied with the car.

forcement channel with the rear face of the jack head hitting against the rear tongues of the reinforcement channel and the lugs

of the jack head located around the inner and outer faces of the channel. Do not use the rear slinging brakcets as jacking points.

Cr

Vda

WW,

2

Rear: Rear reinforcement channel, provided that a wooden is made to fit inside the channel.

qi

Fig. 1 Use of jack for raising front of

Fig. 2 Use of jack for raising rear of

car

Fig. 3 Jacking point for workshop

jack - Front (use adaptor shown in Fig. 4)

g

Fig. 5 Jacking point for workshop jack

- Rear (use adaptor shown in Fig. 6) Fig. 4 Jack adaptor - Front

Fig. 6 Jack adaptor - Rear

A B Cc D E F

1% in (38.10 mm) 3 in (76.20 mm)

4 in (101.6 mm) 1 7/8 in (47.63 mm) 1% in (38.10 mm)

7/16 in (11.11 mm) Y% in (12.70 mm)

wor wu tt G tou M terials: Hardwood; Mild steel

5/8 in (15.87 mm) 1% in (38.10 mm)

2 in (50.80 mm) 2 in (50.80 mm) 3% in (82.55 mm) 4 in (101.6 mm) dmond1/16 in (1.59 mm) uuu OZear AS

A B C

=

3 in (76.20 mm) 1 7/8 in. (47.63 mm) 1% in (31.75 mm)

Material:

Hardwood

block

Chapter 1 Engine Contents

Camshaft and camshaft bearings - examination and renovation Camshaft and tappets - refitting Camshaft and tappets - removal Chain tensioner - dismantling ... Chain tensioner - removal Connecting rods and gudgeon pins- eearenisiion gud renovation : Connecting rods to eeankahet i:- ‘refitting Crankshaft and camshaft sprockets and chain- axaminetion: and renovation

Crankshaft and main bearing - removal . Crankshaft - examination and renovation

34 51 11 24) 14

33 47

37 21 29

Crankshaft (main) bearing and big-end (connecting, rod) bearings -examination and renovation 5 Crankshaft pulley and vibration damper - refitting Crankshaft - replacement iv Cylinder bores - examination and nce nto Cylinder head - decarbonisation

5c ...

Cylinder head - removal (engine in car) Cylinder head - removal (engine on bench) Cylinder head - replacement F Distributor and fuel pump driveshaft - ariding Distributor and fuel pump driveshaft - removal

Engine and transmission (automatic gearbox) - removal Engine and transmission (manual gearbox) - removal Engine and transmission - sea

Engine - dismantling (general) . Engine - examination and renovation- general Engine- fault diagnosis.. Engine- final assembly. Engine- initial start up ahter euerhaal or z *ajer reall

30 54 42 31 40 9 10 50 43 16 5

4

56 7 28 58 55 57

Engine - reassembly - general

Engine - refitting to transmission unit Engine - removing ancilliary components Engine - separation from transmission Flywheel and flywheel housing - removal Flywheel starter ring - examination and renovation General description Gudgeon pins - removal Lubrication system - description

Major operations with engine removed Oil filter - removal and replacement Oil pressure relief valve Oil pump - examination and veniwaton Oil pump - removal and dismantling Operations with engine in place Pistons and connecting rod - reassembly Pistons and piston rings -examination and benewrdioni

Piston rings - removal Piston rings - replacement Pistons, connecting rods and big-end bearings -- removal Pistons - replacement Tappet adjustment

:

Tappets - examination and roiowatiOn’| Timing chain and sprockets - removal

Timing chain, crankshaft sprocket and tensioner - pele: Timing chain guides - removal . Valve - removal sea Valves and valve seats- akarivie tian = pinovation Valves and valve springs - reassembly ... Ventilation air filter - removal and replacement

Specifications

Engine general: Designation

14 H (1500) 17 H (1750)

Number of cylinders Bore Stroke

4

76.2 mm

(3.00 inch)

81.28 mm

(3.2 inch), (1500)

95.75 mm

(3.77 inch), (1750)

Capacity

1485 cc (90.61 inch3), (1500) 1748 cc (106.69 inch3), (1750)

Valve operation

Overhead camshaft (ohc)

Compression ratio Firing order Idle speed

..

.0 : 1 (1500) 8.75:

1 (1750)

1

4

3

2/(No. 1 at left-hand end)

750 rpm

Fast idle speed Bhp

1000 to 1100 rpm

72 at 5500 rpm (1500) 80 at 5000 rpm (1750)

Valve clearances (cold): Standard Minimum

-

Inlet

-

Exhaust Inlet Exhaust

0.016 to 0.018 inch (0.41 to 0.46 mm) 0.020 to 0.022 inch (0.51 to 0.56 mm)

0.012 inch (0.31 mm) 0.012 inch (0.31 mm)

48

Chapter 1/Engine

11

Camshaft: Valve timing marks

...

aes

Camshaft sprocket and carrier marks in conjunction with flywheel marks 9° 4' btdc* 50° 56’ abdc* 48° 56’ abdc* 119 4’ atdc*

Inlet valve:

opens ... closes ... Exhaust valve: opens closes

* At 0.021 inch (0.53 mm) valve clearances End-thrust Endfloat Adjustment Bearings Journal diameter:

Taken on front and locating plate

0.002 to 0.007 inch (0.05 to 0.17 mm) Ke mee Front ... Centre

Renew locating plate 3. Run direct in aluminium carrier Rie:

Rear

Drive

1.9355 to 1.9365 inch (49.185 to 49.197 mm) 1.9668 to 1.9678 inch (49.975 to 49.987 mm) 1.998 to 1.999 inch (50.762 to 50.775 mm)

Chain. 3/8 inch (9.52 mm) pitch x 108 pitches

...

Connecting rods: Type

ne

re

Big end: split horizontally, small end: solid 5.828 to 5.832 inch (148.02 to 148.12 mm)

Length between centre

Endfloat or crankpin (nominal) Small end diameter

0.006 to 0.01 inch (0.15 to 0.25 mm) 0.811 to 0.8115 inch (20.59 to 20.61 mm).

...

Big end bearing material!

Steel backed, reticular tin

Gudgeon pin: nype ss: oe Outside diameter

Press fit in small end 0.8123 to 0.8125 (20.6 to 20.65 mm)

Pistons: Aluminium, (slotted) solid skirt 0.020 inch (0.51 mm)

Type ... Oversize Ss Clearance in cylinder:

Top (below oil control groove) Bottom

0.0018 to 0.0024 inch (0.045 to 0.061 mm) 0.001 to 0.0016 inch (0.025 to 0.039 mrn)

ova

Width of ring grooves: Top a Second ... de

0.064 to 0.065 inch (1.64 to 1.66 mm) 0.064 to 0.065 inch (1.64 to 1.66 mm)

Third (1500 models)

0.064 to 0.065 inch (1.64 to 1.66 mm)

Oil control

0.1565 to 0.1575 inch (4.962 to 4.987 mm)

Piston rings: Compression Ty pe: Top Second...

Plain chrome Tapered

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Tapered 0.0615 to 0.625 inch (1.55 0.0615 to 0.625 inch (1.55 0.0615 to 0.625 inch (1.55 0.011 to 0.022 inch (0.305

Third (1500 only) Width:

Top Second.

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Third (1500 only) Fitted gap:

Top Second

1.60 1.60 1.60 0.55

mm) mm) mm) mm)

0.011 to 0.022 inch (0.305 to 0.55 mm) 0.011 to 0.022 inch (0.305 to 0.55 mm)

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Third (1500 only) Ring to groove clearance: Top Second ... os

0.0015 to 0.0035 inch (0.03 to 0.08 mm) 0.0015 to 0.0035 inch (0.03 to 0.08 mm) 0.0015 to 0.0035 inch (0.03 to 0.08 mm)

Third (1500 only) Oil control:

Two chrome faced rings with expander

Type

0.100 to 0.105 inch (2.54 to 2.66 mm) 0.015 to 0.045 inch (0.38 to 1.14 mm)

Width Fitted gap Piston rings:

Material

to to to to

Sintered alloy Spun cast

(1500) (1750)

Valves:

45%0

Seat angle Head diameter:

Inlet

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Exhaust Stem diameter *: Inlet Exhaust Stem to guide clearance: Inlet Exhaust Stem diameter **: Inlet Exhaust

1.5 inch (38.1 mm) 1.216 to 1.220 inch (30.88 to 31.04 mm) 0.3110 to 0.3115 inch (7.89 to 7.91 mm)

0.3100 to 0.3105 inch (7.87 to 7.89 mm) 0.002 inch (0.051 mm) 0.003 inch (0.076 mm) 0.3115 to 0.3120 inch (7.91 to 7.93 mm)

3.115 to 0.3120 inch (7.91 to 7.93 mm)

Chapter 1/Engine 12 e e Stem to guide clearance **: Valve lift

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0.0015 inch (0.038 mm) 0.0015 inch (0.038 mm)

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0.36 (0.914 mm)

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inch inch inch inch

0.018 0.022 0.021 0.021 * Early engines up to engine number 14H/283EH/39163, 14H/288EH/ 1102 ** / ater engines from engine numbers 14H/283EH/39164, 14H/288EH/1103 =~ Inlet... Exhaust = Inlet... Valve timing clearance: Exhaust Runningclearance:

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(0.46 (0.56 (0.53 (0.53

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Valve springs: Free length...

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1.797 inch (45.70 mm)

Fitted length Rs Load at top of lift...

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1.38 inch (35.05 mm) 96 Ibs (43.5 kg)

Load at fitted length

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Valve timing marks:

On boss of camshaft sprocket and camshaft housing. Also on flywheel

Oil pump: Type Outer Inner Outer Rotor

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