“Happy Eating” and Food Addiction in American Advertising 1666939269, 9781666939262

Table of contents :
Cover
Half Title
Title Page
Copyright Page
To Peter for his support and love during the writing of this book. I am so grateful for all the times you fed animals, ran errands, and generally held things together while I wrote. Thank you so much.
Acknowledgments
Introduction
“Happy Eating”
“Mighty, Mighty Tigers”
Chapter 1: Don’t Worry, Eat
The Ladies’ World, February 1912
The Housewife, June 1914
Media and Aggression
Food Advertising Effects
“Happy Eating”
Food Addiction
Ultra-Processed Foods
Methodology
Chapter 2: I’ll Eat What I Want, When I Want
“The Thing You Want”
“Better-for-You” Cereal
“Silly Whopper”
“Have It Your Way”
The Rebel Whopper
Rebellion and Modern Food Advertising
“Eat like You Mean It”
Restaurant Advertising and Obesity
Chapter 3: Kids Know Best What to Eat
“Food and Fun in a Box”
Play with Your Food
“Super Energy”
“Brings Out the Tiger in You”
“Brings Out the Tiger in You”
“Let Your Great Out!”
“Mission Tiger”
“The More You Eat, the More You Want”
Cracker Jill
“Animal Crackers in My Soup”
Poppin’ Fresh
“Eat It Raw”
Healthy Mascots
Chapter 4: Breathe Deeply and Eat
“You Deserve a Break Today”
Dove Ice Cream Shade
“He’ll Give You a Rest”
DOVE Ice Cream Cool-Down Kit
Comfort Food
“Help Yourself”
COVID Comfort Food
Quarantine 15
“Time to Relax”
“Save Something for Yourself”
Images of Relaxation
Chapter 5: Be Happy and Eat
“The Most Important Meal of the Day”
“Smile for Me”
“Smiling Tummies”
“Kool-Aid Smiles”
Promoting Happiness
Pretzel Crust Pizza
“The Crave for Candy”
Happy Mascots
Chapter 6: Stretch and Chew
Exercise Gone Wrong
“It’s Yoplaitime”
Health Halo
“Breakfast of Champions”
“Eating Exercises”
“High Protein. Low Sugar. Great Taste”
“Glorified Candy Bars?”
“Healthy Real Hydration”
Chapter 7: Be Healthy and Eat
“The Energy of Sunshine”
“Food Marketing Tricks”
“Real Stuff”
“All Natural”
“No Sugar Added”
“Adulting Sucks”
“Yes You Cran”
“Whole Wheat”
“Made with Smiles”
“Fat-Free/Reduced Fat”
“Half the Calories, Zero Fat”
Baked Lay’s and Supermodels
“To the Chip”
“Love Hurts”
“Real Fruit”
“Whole Bag Kinda Night”
Health by Association
“Vitamin Donuts”
“Pinch an Inch”
Unhealthy Portrayals of Health
Chapter 8: Eat and Be Smart
“The Sweetest Story Ever Sold”
“Happy Eating Habit”
“Smart Sandwich-Makers”
“The Smart Club”
“When You Want It, You Gotta Have It”
“Swap Your Pop”
“Butter Just Got Better”
Is Smart Really Smart?
Chapter 9: Eat This Because I Love You
“The Thing to Do”
“A Woman Never Forgets the Man Who Remembers”
“Most Advertised Box of Chocolates in History”
“Made with Magic. Loved by Families.”
Limited-Edition Hearts
Candy Conversation Hearts
“I Love Bread”
“Fighting an Appetite Stimulant with Willpower”
Chapter 10: Chew and Make Friends
“Eat, Laugh, and Share”
“A Taste of Welcome”
“Share a Coke with Friends”
“You Got Chocolate in My Peanut Butter”
“M&M’s Make Friends”
“Friends” and “A Coffee Shop Vibe”
“Just Crack an Egg”
Chapter 11: Chew and Change the World
“World’s Famous Candy”
“Nature at Its Most Delicious”
“Life Happens Out There”
“From Seed to Slice”
“Join the Climate Movement!”
“Global Shortage of Ice Cream”
“Measure Your Impact”
“We Can’t Just Take from Nature”
The Environmental Impact of Advertising
Chapter 12: Start Worrying and Change Things
“Commercial Determents of Health”
“Real Food” Is the Solution
“Bite Back 2030”
“Food Addiction: The Problem and the Solution”
“Food Addiction: A New Substance Use Disorder?”
Media Literacy Education
References
Index
About the Author

Citation preview

“Happy Eating” and Food Addiction in American Advertising

“Happy Eating” and Food Addiction in American Advertising Debbie Danowski

LEXINGTON BOOKS

Lanham • Boulder • New York • London

Published by Lexington Books An imprint of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. 4501 Forbes Boulevard, Suite 200, Lanham, Maryland 20706 www​.rowman​.com 86-90 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NE, United Kingdom Copyright © 2024 by The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote passages in a review. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Available ISBN 9781666939262 (cloth : alk. paper) | ISBN 9781666939279 (ebook) ∞ ™ The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992.

To Peter for his support and love during the writing of this book. I am so grateful for all the times you fed animals, ran errands, and generally held things together while I wrote. Thank you so much.

Contents

Acknowledgmentsix Introduction 1 1 Don’t Worry, Eat

7

2 I’ll Eat What I Want, When I Want

19

3 Kids Know Best What to Eat

31

4 Breathe Deeply and Eat

51

5 Be Happy and Eat

69

6 Stretch and Chew

85

7 Be Healthy and Eat

103

8 Eat and Be Smart

137

9 Eat This Because I Love You

151

10 Chew and Make Friends

165

11 Chew and Change the World

177

12 Start Worrying and Change Things

189

References197 Index 219 About the Author

221

vii

Acknowledgments

Publishing a book is a team effort both professionally and personally. I am blessed to have so many wonderful people on my team. This book would not be possible without my wonderful editor, Jesse Tepper, and assistant editor, Deja Ryland, both of whom believed in and supported this project from the very beginning. I am deeply grateful for their belief in me and my work. I am also grateful for my production editor, and my project editor, Gomathy Ilammathe. My gratitude extends to Lexington Books’ authors as well. To be working with so many distinguished researchers with knowledge in such a wide variety of important topics is truly a gift. Thank you everyone! I am also grateful for those at Sacred Heart University who awarded me a sabbatical to do the extensive research required for this book. I am blessed to work at a university that values diversity, inclusion, acceptance, and, most of all, kindness in addition to academic achievement. I have been a faculty member at Sacred Heart University for over twenty-five years, and during that time so many wonderful people have helped to make my time there a professional and personal growth experience which has resulted in not only deeper academic knowledge but personal insight as well. Thank you to everyone at SHU with a special thank you to my colleagues in The School of Communication, Media & the Arts, specifically Jim Castonguay, who provided the vintage magazines used in this book; Lori Bindig Yousman, also a Lexington Books author, who patiently answered my many questions about the academic publishing process; Andrew Miller, who helped me carve time out to write; Sally Ross, for her encouraging, thoughtful emails during this process; Greg Golda, whose friendship means so much to me; Priscilla Hernandez and Keith Zdrojowy, who both helped me in too many ways to name; and Sid Gottlieb who has for the past twenty-five years served as an example of the scholar I hope to be some day. ix

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Acknowledgments

My work with the nonprofit Food Addiction Institute and the INFACT School reflects my deep commitment to food addiction recovery and has resulted in meeting, working with, and becoming friends with many wonderful and amazing people who share my commitment. Under the leadership of Esther Helga, this organization has flourished and brought attention to one of the world’s most destructive addictions while at the same time providing me with an opportunity to fine-tune my writing and research skills. Keep up the good work, FAI! On a personal level, I am blessed to have so many wonderful and supportive friends in my life. I am grateful for each one of you and especially the support you give me in our weekly Zoom meetings. I could not have survived the pandemic lockdown without my dear friends. Thank you all so very much! My family provides a solid foundation of love and strength in my life. My sister Karen and I have been through a lot together. I don’t know where I’d be without her continuing support. Likewise, my niece Melissa and nephew Tony along with their children are a great support and inspiration to me. I also gain strength from those no longer in my life—my parents, grandparents, and my brother who each played a role in bringing me to this point in my life. I love you all so much! The animals in my life bring me great joy and love. All my fur babies have touched my heart, and I could not imagine my life without them. My love of horses began at H.O.R.S.E. of Connecticut during a time when my life had changed drastically. I remain grateful for Patty Wahlers and her army of volunteers who work so hard to rescue abused and neglected horses, and sometimes people, too. I am also very grateful to 13 Hands Equine Rescue for everything they do to save horses, including my two new babies. Keep up the good work everyone! I am also deeply grateful for Peter for the time, effort, and love he puts into supporting my writing and teaching as well as the care he provides for the animals who share our lives. Our life together is a true gift. Thank you, Peter, for your love and support. Finally, I am grateful to God and for the life He has given me. There are no words to express my deep gratitude for the amazing gifts I have been given. My life today is a true miracle. Thank You God.

Introduction

Four young, fit men and women, three sitting and one standing, are on a balcony overlooking a city. Upbeat music plays with a male singing about how much he misses his girl. Just before the dark-haired woman seated to the left of the screen bites into her chocolate ice-cream bar on a stick, she tosses a beach ball off the balcony and then touches her ice cream in a toast-like manner with that of the dark-haired man seated to her left who then “toasts” his ice-cream bar with the blonde-haired woman seated to his left while the dark-haired girl “toasts” her ice-cream bar with the dark-haired man standing behind her. All are laughing and then look directly into the camera with sultry, sexy, and rebellious expressions. The dark-haired girl is shown in close-up biting into her ice-cream bar, her rose-colored lips tightly wrapped around the tip of the bar, head slightly tilted up, and eyes intensely focused on the camera. As she fully bites into the ice cream, her head tilts up as do the corners of her mouth in what can only be described as a satisfied smile. The camera cuts to a close-up shot of a chocolate-covered green ice-cream bar, then to an extreme close-up of the dark-haired man to her left winking into the camera who also bites euphorically into his ice-cream bar. The blonde-haired woman next to him does the same and follows with a shy smile looking down after biting into her vanillacolored bar. Next, all four are shown laughing and moving their ice-cream bars to the beat of the music in dance-like motions before taking another bite out of their ice-cream bars. The final screen contains the words, “HäagenDazs everyday mäde extraordinary.” The tone of the commercial is upbeat and fun with undertones that appear to imply the promise of romantic love and sexual satisfaction. The first portion of the commercial includes a brief shot of a building with round windows.

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Introduction

There are two fit tennis players dancing in one window, then another fit and energetic woman in a bright pink dress. The camera zooms into the window with her in it as she is seen hanging round-shaped abstract paintings on a wall dancing with an ice-cream bar until she falls energetically into a chair taking a euphoric bite out of her ice-cream bar. This is followed by the scene with the four young, fit men and women.

“HAPPY EATING” While this may appear to be just another commercial, that’s not the case. It’s important to look deeper into the messages being presented here. To begin, the product, ice-cream bars, is classified under the NOVA international nutritional system as “ultra-processed,” meaning that it is an “industrial formulation” with five or more ingredients that is among the unhealthiest foods available with little to no nutritional value (Monteiro, et al. 2016, 33). This being the case, it’s not a stretch to note that eating too much of this product will result in gaining weight and perhaps even serious health problems if eaten to excess. Take into consideration that according to the nonprofit Food Addiction Institute, 87 million Americans are overweight, and more than half of these people are physically addicted to certain food substances the same way an alcoholic is to liquor (2022). One of these food substances is sugar, which is listed as an ingredient in the ice-cream bars. Take into consideration that each of the five most visible actors in the commercial are fit with normal-sized bodies, energetic and attractive, the exact opposite effect that eating these ice-cream bars has on many people and it’s easy to see the hidden ideology of consequence-free eating presented in this advertisement. It’s worth noting that the light and bright images, energetic young people dancing and moving freely around as well as interesting circular windows and artwork and upbeat music are designed to attract young consumers. These images appear to target teenagers and perhaps even younger children yet can also be attractive to those older looking to feel young and vibrant. In short, the message is that if viewers eat these ice-cream bars, they will have fun, be fit, find friends and even romantic love all the while enjoying them with an orgasmic pleasure unsurpassed by anything else. The reality of the situation is that eating too many of these ice-cream bars will result in gaining weight, being unhealthy, having acne, and for some feeling lonely. This is known as a “Happy Eating” portrayal in which the consequences of eating ultra-processed foods are ignored and presented with images of the exact opposite nature.

Introduction

3

“MIGHTY, MIGHTY TIGERS” A “Happy Eating” portrayal which is targeted directly at children is the Kellogg’s Frosted Flakes commercial, “Mighty, Mighty Tigers” (2021). The opening portion of the commercial begins with four children in separate houses eating Frosted Flakes for breakfast smiling as they scoop the cereal into their mouths. There are quick cuts to each child and then one to the cereal’s mascot, Tony the Tiger, who is shown kicking a soccer ball on a grassy field. He begins chanting, “Bring out the tigers” (Kellogg’s Frosted Flakes 2021). The camera cuts to each child who immediately leaves their breakfast and runs to put on sports gear or retrieve equipment. A boy begins to chant, “The mighty, mighty tigers” followed by a girl chanting “Bring out the tigers” followed again by the boy chanting, “The mighty, mighty tigers” (Kellogg’s Frosted Flakes 2021). Tony is shown kicking the ball and running around the field as a large group of children run onto the field all of them chanting, “Bring out the tigers. The mighty, mighty tigers” (Kellogg’s Frosted Flakes 2021). The chant continues as the children and Tony run around the field playing soccer until the camera focuses on Tony who stands with children cheering around him as he says, “Tigers start their day with the great taste of Kellogg’s Frosted Flakes so they can be gggrrreat!” (Kellogg’s Frosted Flakes 2021). At this point, there is cheering with the group of children jumping up and down. The last shot is of a female soccer player eating Frosted Flakes at a table with a glass of milk and a banana next to a box of Frosted Flakes. A male voice says, “Part of a complete breakfast” (Kellogg’s Frosted Flakes 2021). Similar to the Häagen-Dazs advertisement, this commercial, which is directly targeted at children, promises viewers that if they eat Kellogg’s Frosted Flakes then they will be active, have fun, and be part of a winning team that is “mighty” and strong. The happiness on the soccer players’ faces both as they are eating, getting ready to go out to the field, and playing soccer is evident. The way in which they run quickly and “mightily” is also clear leaving no question about their physical abilities. Using the word “mighty,” which is chanted repeatedly in a catchy slogan, makes other children want to be not only “mighty” but also part of this group of “Mighty Tigers” who eat this cereal, promising health and happiness for those who buy this product. In addition to being a blatant portrayal of “Happy Eating,” this commercial also uses several other marketing techniques described by Andrews, Van Leeuwen, and Van Baaren in their book Hidden Persuasion, including “Promised Land,” “Disrupt & Reframe,” and “Doublespeak” (2014). The authors describe “The Promised Land” technique as “a persuasion technique which seduces consumers into buying a product because it will help them to achieve some desirable goal-even when the goal is unrealistic” (Andrews,

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Introduction

Van Leeuwen, and Van Baaren 2014, 36). They go onto point out that “Even though the claims made are exaggerated or obvious lies, they target the important desires we carry with us, thereby making us vulnerable to them” (Andrews, Van Leeuwen, and Van Baaren 2014, 36). It’s not difficult to understand why children want to have fun, be part of a “mighty” group, eat a healthy breakfast, and spend time with a famous mascot. Similarly, it’s also not difficult to understand that parents want their children to be healthy and have fun while also providing them with a meal that is convenient and easy to serve, thus saving time in their already too busy lives. In other words, while the intentions and goals are well-meaning, eating sugar-filled cereal does not realistically fulfill either set of goals. The attractiveness of these portrayals is that viewers have a deep desire for them to be true, thus creating a firm connection between dreams and desires and the product (Andrews, Van Leeuwen, and Van Baaren 2014, 36). It’s worth noting that Patricia Janick from Northwestern University ranked Frosted Flakes as the tenth worst breakfast cereal according to nutritional value due to “10 grams of sugar and a serious lack of fiber and protein” (2021). Similarly, in a 2018 HuffPost article that was updated in December of 2020, Abigail Abesamis Demarist points out that while Kellogg’s Frosted Flakes is the third best-selling cereal in a list of nine, it is the unhealthiest one with “no whole grain, very little fiber, high sugar” (2020). At the end of the article, one of the nutritionists interviewed for the article points out, “At the end of the day, don’t feel guilty if you have Frosted Flakes in the morning,” Valdez said. “The meal doesn’t matter as much as the collective diet. Now if you were to eat Frosted Flakes all day, that’s a different story” (Demarist 2020). While this may be true, it’s important to note that food advertisements with “Happy Eating” portrayals encourage overconsumption of their products, making it more difficult to maintain a healthy diet. The “Disrupt & Reframe” technique, explained by Andrews, Van Leeuwen, and Van Baaren, is also evident in the “Mighty, Mighty Tigers” commercial. This technique adds “an unexpected element, which attracts the attention of the audience and momentarily disables their critical thinking” (Andrews, Van Leeuwen, and Van Baaren 2014, 114). The high sugar content of breakfast cereal and thus the unhealthiness of it have received much attention in the popular media over the past several years. To “Disrupt & Reframe” this message, images of healthy, active, children are shown running and playing soccer. Using superior production techniques, including quick cuts of attractive children, lively music, and chanting, viewers are distracted from the high sugar levels and encouraged to associate Frosted Flakes with healthy activities. Building on this, the “Doublespeak” technique outlined by Andrews, Van Leeuwen, and Van Baaren is also evident. As noted by the authors,

Introduction

5

“Doublespeak” involves the use of words with “the opposite meaning to what is true” or the practice of distortion of “the words to give them a more positive connotation” as a means of purposefully manipulating “people’s perceptions of reality to fit the source’s purpose” (Andrews, Van Leeuwen, and Van Baaren 2014, 162). This technique is evident in the Frosted Flakes commercial by the chanting of “Mighty, mighty Tigers” throughout to make viewers believe there is strength gained from eating the cereal. As a recent article in Harvard Health Publishing notes, one of the main sources of added sugar is cereal, and the dangers of eating too much added sugar include cardiovascular disease, fatty liver disease, diabetes, high blood pressure, weight gain, stroke, and inflammation (2019). These dangers are hardly consistent with being “mighty” in health and physical ability, thus illustrating the “Doublespeak” technique. The focus of the book is to provide an exploration of addictive and unhealthy advertising techniques used by food manufacturers to promote their products. In chapter 1, the concept of “Happy Eating” based on George Gerbner’s idea of “Happy Violence,” violence that has a happy ending, will be examined. A discussion of “Happy Eating” in American advertising portrayals as the concept of eating ultra-processed foods without experiencing any health consequences such as gaining weight, or physical or emotional addiction, will be included. Chapter 2 will examine the idea of advertisements which promote eating high-calorie foods as rebellion, while chapter 3 focuses on those ads that include the concept of eating as play. Advertisements focusing on relaxation through meditation, yoga, hot bathes, and other relaxation techniques while promoting high-calorie foods will be discussed in chapter 4. In chapter 5, advertisements that promise happiness through consumption of certain foods will be discussed along with the idea that happiness comes from ultraprocessed foods without the portrayal of the negative consequences that go with eating them. In chapter 6, the substitution of eating for exercise will be highlighted, while in chapter 7, ads that promote the idea of certain ultraprocessed foods improving American’s health and thus normalizing the idea that eating these foods can be healthy will be presented. Chapter 8 will focus on the association in American advertising between high intelligence and eating ultra-processed foods. The concept of providing loved ones with ultraprocessed foods as a means of showing affection will be discussed in chapter 9, and promotion of eating ultra-processed foods as a means of bonding will be examined in chapter 10. Advertisements that promote eating certain ultra-processed foods as a way of making America more environmentally sustainable will be examined in chapter 11. Finally, in chapter 12, initiatives currently underway in making changes to the food advertising industry and bring awareness to food addiction recovery will be highlighted.

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Introduction

Throughout this book, every effort is made to respectfully discuss concepts in food advertising that may sometimes be difficult for certain individuals to acknowledge or recognize. No disrespect for any individual’s physical or emotional attributes is intended. In keeping with inclusive and respectful language suggested from the World Obesity Foundation (2021), this book will avoid using derogatory or pejorative labels and clearly acknowledge the complexity of obesity and, similarly, of food addiction. Building on this, the terms used throughout this book include “a person with obesity” and “individuals with higher weight.” Additionally, there is a genuine attempt by the author to increase understanding about the complexity of obesity and the many physiological, emotional, economic, and societal influences that contribute to its manifestation.

Chapter 1

Don’t Worry, Eat

The year is 1912. A year that not only would bring one of the greatest tragedies with the sinking of the Titanic but also contribute to unprecedented growth in the advertising industry, due in part to the rapid growth the magazine industry had achieved several years before, thus providing an outlet for advertisers. As Mary Ellen Zuckerman points out in her book A History of Popular Women’s Magazines in the United States 1792–1995, the circulation of women’s magazines “rose from 18 million to 64 million per issue” during the time between 1890 and 1905 (1998, 6). She also notes that “by the end of the teens, mass circulation magazines had become an institution in the lives of Americans” (1998, 6). Chief among these magazines were those targeted at women. Not only did these publications provide advertisers with ready-made consumers eager to improve domestic life for their families; they also allowed companies the opportunity to develop brand loyalty among those now able to afford their products. In a year that would mark the birth of Life Savers Candies, the Oreo Biscuit, Ocean Spray Cranberry Sauce, Lorna Doone Cookies, the Whitman’s Chocolate Sampler, Morton’s Table Salt, and the mass marketing of Hellman’s Mayonnaise, cereal was considered a health food, canned goods were considered “fashionable,” and people drank a lot of cocaine-laced Coke soda (Langmuir 2012). THE LADIES’ WORLD, FEBRUARY 1912 During this time, food advertisements looked very different from the slick, colorful, well-designed modern ones of today. Though magazine covers were in color, the inside pages of almost all women’s magazine published 7

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during this period were black and white. Advertisements contained few, if any, graphics, and were mostly text-based extolling the virtues of their products. The February 1912 issue of The Ladies’ World women’s magazine included 22 food advertisements and 107 ads for other items for a total of 129 advertisements in the 41 pages of the publication. This means that 17 percent of the ads in the magazine were for food items. Some of these ads included those for Royal Baking Powder, Campbell’s Soups, Crisco, Post Toasties, Ralston Wheat Food, Borden’s Eagle Brand Condensed Milk, Quaker Oats (two different ads), Knox Gelatin, and H.J. Heinz Tomato Soup. On page 18, an article titled “What May Be Done with Canned Meats, Fruits and Vegetables” is sandwiched between a ¼ page advertisement for Dry Frying with Crisco and another ¼ page ad for Post Toasties. The Crisco ad contains three paragraphs and three small images. The first paragraph is italicized and discussed how using Crisco means cooking in half the time it usually takes, while the second one pointed out the purity of Crisco stating that “There is absolutely no animal matter in it. It is exquisitely clean and pure in origin and manufacture” (The Ladies’ World 1912, 18). The third paragraph discusses the “delicate aroma” of the product with an image above of fish balls fried in Crisco. The Post Toasties ad contained two illustrated images, one of a smiling man at the top and another of the product at a breakfast table at the bottom of the ad. In between was a title (After the Last Taste) and subtitle (“The Memory Lingers”) with the product name (Post Toasties) in large print. Underneath this is a paragraph that discussed how “carefully selected corn [is] rolled into thin fluffy bits and toasted to a crisp, appetizing golden brown already [sic] to serve with cream and sugar” (The Ladies’ World 1912, 18). Below that are the words “Sold by Grocers,” then the American and Canadian addresses of the company. The first line of the article positioned between the two ads begins with the words, “That the United States is becoming a nation of canned food eaters is the statement of an authority who calls to the attention of the public the increased consumption of goods of this kind” (The Ladies’ World 1912, 18). This is followed by, The proportion of people afraid to eat canned goods grows less each year, with the advancement of canning science and enlightenment of housekeepers to the valuable use of this food. When only ten per cent [sic] of housekeepers in the United States have but a limited knowledge how to prepare canned goods other than simply “stewing,” one realizes what a large field is open for teaching this class the wide possibilities for palatable meals from canned vegetables, meats, fish and fruits. (The Ladies’ World 1912, 18)

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The article, which continues on half of the next page next to a ½ page ad for Armour’s Extract of Beef and Bouillon cubes, includes recipes for Corned Beef au Gratin, Fricassee of Chicken, Brown Fricassee of Chicken with Biscuits, Canned Boiled Mutton, Force-meat Balls, Beef a la Mode, String Bean Salad, Ham and Artichoke Salad, Asparagus and Artichoke Salad, Canned Beef Salad, Bisques, Baked Bean Soup, Milk Bean Soup, Holland Fruit Salad, Fruit Tapioca, and Fruit Cups. In the middle of the article is a photo of deserts with the caption, “ATTRACTIVE DESSERTS FROM CANNED FRUITS” (The Ladies’ World 1912, 18). The Armour ad urges consumers to “Let Us Help You Reduce Living Expenses” by offering to send them a new “acquaintance” package with a jar of Armour’s Extract of Beef and some Armour’s Bouillon cubes. They promise that the package “will show you, in this week, how to cut your kitchen bills in half” (The Ladies’ World 1912, 19). They promise readers that “You will enjoy the Bouillon cubes, they make the best bouillon you ever tasted” (The Ladies’ World 1912, 19). The ad states that the “Acquaintance” Package is free, and readers are encouraged to submit beef extract recipes of their own to win $500 in prizes. Examining these two pages of the magazine, it’s not difficult to see where the idea of using emotions to promote food items has its roots. In the Crisco ad, readers are promised that the product is pure as evidenced by its white color, lack of animal products and quick frying abilities. The illustration of a woman by her stove frying is at the top portion of the ad. Though the woman appears to be focused on her task, there is a slight smile on her face, reflected by the wide smile of the man in the Post Toasties ad on the opposite side of the page. The Armour and Company ad contains illustrations of the two products at the top and an illustration at the bottom of a woman’s hand dropping a cube in a gravy boat. The promise of enjoyment and/or happiness in all of these ad works to equate these feelings with the products advertised. Other ads in this issue that equate emotions with food in advertisements include the smiling baby illustration in the Ralston Wheat Food ad (1), an illustration of two well-dressed and smiling women asking a third how she manages with only one maid in the Campbell’s Soups ad in addition to a smiling female child cartoon illustration at the bottom along with the promise of a “pleasing and satisfying” affair with the product (12), a smiling child in the Borden’s Eagle Brand Condensed Milk ad (14), a smiling husband sipping Postum coffee with his wife (15), a smiling woman serving nourishing food made with Liebig Extract of Beef (15), smiling groups of people in the Baker’s Cocoa ad (16), a smiling woman in the Snider’s Tomato Catsup ad (17), a smiling woman and child in the Occident Flour ad (25), a smiling Quaker in the Quaker Oats ad (31), and a self-satisfied, half-smiling photo

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of Prof. Anderson who invented “foods shot from guns” in the Puffed Wheat and Puffed Rice Quaker Oats Company ad (35). It’s important to note that the illustrations and photos all contain normal body weight men, women and children when fuller body shots are used in the ads. While smiling, normal weight people in advertisements may not seem all that unusual in 1912 and even today, it’s worth considering how over a century of these images has created a sort of alternate reality in which foods high in calories, fats, and sugars do not cause poor health or weight gain. As Margaret Beetham points out in her book, A Magazine of Her Own?: Domesticity and Desire in the Woman’s Magazine, 1800–1914, “For the woman purchaser, one commodity—the magazine—gave entry into a world of commodities. In the nineteenth century, the feminine role of providing for the household became increasingly defined as shopping, as well as—or instead of—making” (1996, 8). She further notes that By the end of the century, women’s magazines across the market were carrying as many pages of advertising as of editorial copy and were relying on advertising revenue at least as much as direct sales. The importance of commodities for the feminine was established not only for “the lady” but for a mass readership. (1996, 8)

THE HOUSEWIFE, JUNE 1914 Though it may not seem abnormal or surprising for women’s magazines to rely heavily on advertising in the early 1900s and beyond, it’s important to understand the ramifications of this and the pattern established over a century ago. A good example of this is in the June 1914 issue of The Housewife magazine, which was founded in 1882 and in 1917 incorporated into Today’s Housewife through 1927. As with The Ladies’ World, there are many of the same food advertisements including those for Cream of Wheat (inside front cover in color), Campbell’s Soups (7), Eagle Brand Condensed Milk (10), Grape-Nuts (11), Royal Baking Powder (11), Knox Gelatine (12), Baker’s Cocoa (13), Post Toasties (13), Necco Wafers (21), Van Camp’s Pork & Beans (22), Plymouth Rock Gelatine (28), Quaker Oats (29), and Puffed Wheat and Puffed Rice (inside back cover). It is pages 16–17, however, that clearly illustrates what would become not only the marriage of advertising with editorial content but also the foundation of using positive emotional states to promote food items. The double-page spread included black-and-white photos of thirty-six “Mellin’s Food Babies” with the title “WORTH THEIR WEIGHT IN GOLD” in the center of each page (The Housewife 1914, 16–17). In each corner at the top of both pages, readers are urged to “use the Mellin’s Food

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Method of Milk Modification for your Baby” while at the bottom corner on page 16 are told that “A radiant face with the flush of joyous, healthy babyhood is the natural result of a Mellin’s Food diet” (The Housewife 1914, 16). On the opposite page in the far corner, Mellin’s Food babies are touted as “well developed and strong; their smiling faces indicate good health and happiness” (The Housewife 1914, 17). In the middle on each page underneath the photos, readers are urged to send for the company’s free book, “The Care and Feeding of Infants” and promised “a quantity of Mellin’s Food sufficient for a thorough trial will be sent free on request” (The Housewife 1914, 16–17). The design is carried over onto the middle of the next two pages, which are titled “SOME HOUSEWIFE TREASURES.” Though there is no mention of the product, the design is similar from that of the “Mellin’s Food Babies” on the previous two pages. The importance of this as establishing a firm association between food, eating and positive emotions cannot be underestimated. The idea that feeding babies or children certain foods will cause “smiling faces” which “indicate good health and happiness” would have led mothers to believe that Mellin’s Food could actually cause happiness (The Housewife 1914, 17). Though, of course, good health and happiness certainly go together, associating food with happiness begins a dangerous pattern, now seen today, resulting in magical thinking that eating certain foods will provide true happiness. Similarly, and equally as unhealthy, is the idea that “a radiant face with the flush of joyous, healthy babyhood is the natural result of a Mellin’s Food diet” (The Housewife 1914, 16). The power of thirty-six smiling babies on pages 16–17 and 20 more on pages 18–19 provides readers with the idea that certain foods can cause happiness. Though many might argue that eating certain foods does make them happy, there is sufficient evidence to suggest that equating food and eating to increase positive feelings or manage hurtful ones may create conditions which nurture disordered eating patterns. This is evidenced by the fact that the majority of eating disorder and food addiction treatment centers include identifying and learning to manage feelings as part of their programs (SHiFT Recovery, 2021; Food Addicts Anonymous, 2021).

MEDIA AND AGGRESSION Drawing on an experiment done by Canadian American psychologist Albert Bandura and two of his colleagues, it’s not difficult to understand why the idea of presenting images of thin, healthy people smiling and enjoying life in food advertisements can create behavior that may be harmful to the health of those exposed to these ads. In this classic experiment, thirty-six boys and

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thirty-six girls ages three to almost six years old from Stanford University Nursery’ School were divided into groups, in which some were exposed to aggressive behavioral models and others to models that were subdued and nonaggressive. The children were asked to play with an adult who was either aggressive toward the toys in the room or nonaggressive. One of the toys in the room was a five-foot-tall Bobo doll. In the aggressive play, the adult used a mallet to hammer the doll, while in the nonaggressive play, the adult ignored the Bobo doll. Following this, the children were then led into another room that contained a three-foot Bobo doll and a mallet, among other things. The children’s behavior was then observed to determine if it was aggressive or not. The researchers concluded that “subjects in the aggression condition reproduced a good deal of physical and verbal aggressive behavior resembling that of the models, and . . . [their behavior] . . . differed markedly from those of subjects in the nonaggressive and control groups who exhibited virtually no imitative aggression” (Bandura, Ross, and Ross 1961, 579). They also noted that “subjects in the aggressive condition also exhibited significantly more partially imitative and nonimitative aggressive behavior and were generally less inhibited in their behavior than subjects in the nonaggressive condition” (Bandura, Ross, and Ross 1961, 580). This study has served as the basis for many others about the effects of media on viewers, not only children, and has been found “particularly valuable in analyzing the possible effects of television violence, but it is also a general theory of learning that can be applied to other areas of mass media effects” (Severin and Tankard 2001, 280). For example, researchers found that when violent acts portrayed in the media have a “happy ending” with little consequence to the actions, there is a pacifying affect (Zillmann, Johnson, and Hanrahan, 1973) that results in acceptance of these behaviors. FOOD ADVERTISING EFFECTS In addition to this, there have since been decades of research about the effects of food advertising on food choices. For example, a classic study by Wilson and Blackhurst (1999) of food advertisements in women’s magazines suggested that the use of text and imagery in ads practically guaranteed that women with eating disorders would identify with the advertisements in which “disordered eating is portrayed as normal, even humorous, and without emotional or physical consequences” (119). The researchers further note that, To identify and transform cultural mechanisms contributing to the current epidemic of eating and body image problems, deconstructing the potentially harmful messages in food advertisements is essential. As previously demonstrated,

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the advertisements contain powerful messages about the danger of women’s appetites, the offensive nature of the natural (nondieting) female body, and the transformative, even magical, power of the illusive thin ideal. Eliminating these messages in food advertisements as well as other media will be central to reducing the prevalence of eating disorders. (119)

The power of food advertisements to change eating behaviors was later reinforced in a study by Rusmevichientong et al. (2014), but this time with a different approach. The researchers studied the impact of food advertising on consumers’ choices of lunch items. A total of 186 participants were divided into four groups. One group watched healthy food advertisements, a second group anti-obesity advertisements, a third group unhealthy food advertisements, and a fourth group watched a mix of the three different types of advertisements. The researchers concluded that “healthy, anti-obesity, and mixed food advertising reduced intakes of total calories, fat, sodium, and carbohydrates” and that exposure to these types of advertisements resulted in “the probability of selecting more healthy items and fewer unhealthy items from a menu” (59). A study that same year by Zimmerman and Shimoga (2014) further reinforced the educational nature and power of food advertisements to influence food choices. In this study, students at UCLA were recruited to watch prerecorded movie segments including advertisements. Food advertisements were included in two of the groups, while the other two included no food advertisements. Following the viewing, there was a brief break for snacks. The researchers found that “Those exposed to food advertising took a set of snacks with 65 more calories than those exposed to non-food advertising” (2014). This led researchers to conclude that “Televised food advertising has strong effects on individual food choice” (2014). More recently, a study by Smith et. al. about food advertisement placement in video games reinforced the fact that food advertisements influence behaviors (2020). In this study, Australian children seven to twelve years old were given a four-minute online game to play. Children were divided into four groups, in which some were shown advertisements and one of which included “rewarded video advertisements,” where children were given rewards within the game for watching the advertisement. The researchers concluded that “Children’s choice of the test brand was significantly influenced by the rewarded video advertising condition,” thus again highlighting the influence advertising has on food choices (2020). A study in 2019 by Castonguay, Bakir, and Blodgett looked at adolescents’ responses to cereal ads and how the body weight of the characters in the ads affects perceived healthfulness of the advertised product. In this study, adolescents aged twelve to fourteen years old were shown advertisements at

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random and provided with an online survey about their responses to the ad. The ads were created by a graphic designer to create male and female characters who were either thin or overweight. It was concluded that “higher BMI adolescents in particular believe a food to be healthier when promoted by a thin character” (Castonguay, Bakir, and Blodgett 2019, 785). The findings from the Castonguay, Bakir, and Blodgett study are especially important when considering food advertisements with fit, healthy-bodied actors. In their study, the researchers proved that heuristic health cues influence perception of food healthfulness in food advertising, thus reinforcing the instructional nature of advertisements as well as their effect on attitudes and behaviors about food and eating. “HAPPY EATING” These studies as well as Bandura’s about “happy violence” can easily be translated into a concept known as “Happy Eating,” which encourages the consequence-free eating of ultra-processed substances proven to be unhealthy and cause weight gain if eaten in large amounts. While it may make sense that food advertisers would promote their products in the best possible light, the declining state of societal health as well as the alarmingly high and rising obesity rate demands a deeper examination of the techniques being used to promote unhealthy foods. Moving through the decades and into the current era, recent food advertisements have evolved to include highly sophisticated and far more individualized techniques laser targeting both children and adults on social media platforms in a way that was not possible before. For example, researchers in Australia found that [Facebook] Pages widely used marketing features unique to social media that increase consumer interaction and engagement. Common techniques were competitions based on user-generated content, interactive games, and apps. Four pages included apps that allowed followers to place an order directly through Facebook. Adolescent and young adult Facebook users appeared most receptive to engaging with this content. By using the interactive and social aspects of Facebook to market products, EDNP food brands capitalize on users’ social networks and magnify the reach and personal relevance of their marketing messages. (Freeman, et al. 2014)

The authors further point out that all the foods and beverage pages studied were high in calories and low in nutrition (Freeman, et al. 2014). In a more recent study of Facebook food advertising, researchers found that posts from food product pages “featuring adolescents were more likely to be interactive than posts featuring adults” and that “two-thirds (67.9%) of

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foods shown were unhealthy, and 61.2% of beverages were sugar sweetened” (Bragg, et  al. 2020). In their conclusion, the researchers write that “Social media food advertising is pervasive and uses interactive tools to engage with users” (Bragg, et al. 2020) which is reflected in the U.S. Surgeon General’s recent report about the dangers of social media use by children. Similarly, Canadian researchers examined digital food advertising related to a family-friendly event, Winterlude, an annual winter festival from January to February 2019 in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada. They concluded that Due to the unfettered advertising found in digital spaces, and that they are largely unregulated, it is important for future policies looking to combat childhood obesity to consider incorporating social media into their regulations to safeguard family-friendly events. General awareness on the implications of peer to peer sharing of unhealthy food and beverage posts should also be considered. (Amson, et al. 2021)

The importance of the findings from both studies cannot, and should not, be underestimated. The fact that food companies are now using technology to interact with not only children and teens but adults as well to increase sales of their products creates an atmosphere of friendly feelings toward products that are dangerous to the health of consumers. These practices result in the creation of a “Happy Eating” environment, one in which the images in advertising ignore the consequences of repeatedly eating unhealthy food that has the potential to dramatically affect the health of the nation as well as the world.

FOOD ADDICTION Combine this idea of “Happy Eating” portrayals in advertising with the fact that the physical addiction to certain foods has repeatedly been established in medical literature, and it’s easy to see how especially dangerous this concept can be for a certain number of individuals who suffer from food addiction. According to the nonprofit Food Addiction Institute, Food addiction is just like drug and alcohol addiction. Addiction means the body has become chemically dependent on one or more substances and needs these substances to function “normally.” . . . The most common addictive foods are high in sugar, flour, fat, grains and salt or some combination of these. The most common addictive eating behaviors are bingeing, purging and volume eating. Food Addiction is a chronic and progressive disease characterized by our seeking the foods or food behaviors we are addicted to, eating/doing them compulsively and having a great deal of difficulty controlling these urges despite harmful consequences. (2022)

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Taking this definition into consideration, it becomes clearer that promoting foods high in sugar and other addictive substances is the equivalent of promoting other addictive substances such as alcohol, drugs, and nicotine. The Food Addiction Institute notes that 87 million Americans struggle with obesity with as many as half of them suffering from food addiction (2022). The organization also points out that addiction to these foods begins in childhood and through repeated consumption over the course of several years has changed the way the brain functions through a process which results in the loss of self-control and ability to resist eating these foods. This can be seen by repeated attempts to restrict food intake through diets and promises of weight loss, both of which are rarely successful for those addicted to food. The concept of food addiction remains misunderstood and misdiagnosed as it is not yet included in the Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders (DSM), “the handbook used by health care professionals in the United States and much of the world as the authoritative guide to the diagnosis of mental disorders. DSM contains descriptions, symptoms, and other criteria for diagnosing mental disorders” (American Psychiatric Association [APA] 2021). The DSM provides a common language for clinicians to communicate about their patients and establishes consistent and reliable diagnoses that can be used in the research of mental disorders. It also provides a common language for researchers to study the criteria for potential future revisions and to aid in the development of medications and other interventions. (APA 2021)

A current initiative for acceptance of food addiction in the next revised update of the DSM, which will be discussed in chapter 12, as well as recent and past research about the disease (Davis, et al. 2011; Lerma-Cabrera, Carvajal, and Lopez-Legarrea 2016; Gordon, et al. 2018; Schulte and Gearhardt 2018) reinforces the validity of this concept. For the purposes of this book, food addiction is accepted as a valid psychiatric disorder with similar physical and mental characteristics to alcoholism and drug addiction. When looking at it in this light, the promotion of foods high in sugar and other addictive substances to children by interacting with them digitally is on par with promoting beer or other liquor to children. Thinking about it this way reinforces the seriousness of “Happy Eating” portrayals in food advertisements. ULTRA-PROCESSED FOODS In line with this, it is important for the purposes of this book to establish the definition of ultra-processed foods. To do this, the NOVA Food Classification system, which has been repeatedly established in nutrition literature and

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emphasized recently in the Monteiro et al. 2016 study, “NOVA. The Star Shines Bright” in World Nutrition, will be used. In this system, breakfast cereals, yogurt, and breads fall into the “Ultra-Processed Food and Drinks” Category, making them some of the unhealthiest foods available (Monteiro, et al. 2016). According to the NOVA system, there are four food group categorizations: Group 1: Unprocessed or minimally processed foods, Group 2: Processed culinary ingredients, Group 3: Processed foods, and Group 4: Ultra-processed food and drink products. For the purposes of this study, Group 4 foods will be used as these are not only the unhealthiest but also the most widely advertised, thus having the greatest impact on the largest number of Americans. Following is the NOVA Group 4 definition: [I]ndustrial formulations typically with five or more .  .  . ingredients .  .  . [including substances] such as sugar, oils, fats, salt, anti-oxidants, stabilisers, and preservatives . . . [as well as] some directly extracted from foods, such as casein, lactose, whey, and gluten, and some derived from further processing of food constituents, such as hydrogenated or interesterified oils, hydrolysed proteins, soy protein isolate, maltodextrin, invert sugar and high fructose corn syrup. Classes of additive only found in ultra-processed products include dyes and other colours, colour stabilisers, flavours, flavour enhancers, non-sugar sweeteners, and processing aids such as carbonating, firming, bulking and antibulking, de-foaming, anti-caking and glazing agents, emulsifiers, sequestrants and humectants. (Monteiro, et al. 2016, 33)

Researchers further note that the primary purpose of this processing is to manufacture ready to eat foods to replace those which are natural such as nuts, fruits, and vegetables. The researchers note that one of the main characteristics of ultra-processed foods is superior taste as well as appealing packaging along with relentless marketing, high profits, and claims of health. Among those items classified as ultra-processed are cereal, candy, ice cream, infant formulas, fruit yogurts, pizza, sausages, hot dogs, soups, energy, and cereal bars, carbonated and fruit drinks, breads, cakes, and cookies. For the purposes of this book, the term “ultra-processed foods” will be used to indicate the above-mentioned types of foods. METHODOLOGY The use of textual analysis combined with case study methodology as outlined by Beetham in her study of women’s magazines is a proven research methodology for analyzing media texts. As Beetham notes, “treating the magazine as a text” allows for consideration of the “way it developed as a form over a period of time,” while case study methodology allows for

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research about “expressions of ideas and ideology” in media texts as well as study about representations of “particular moments” (1996, 6). Though she refers to women’s magazines, it’s not difficult to translate these ideas for use in advertising texts. Additionally, [u]sing content analysis, researchers can quantify and analyze the presence, meanings and relationships of such certain words, themes, or concepts. Researchers can then make inferences about the messages within the texts, the writer(s), the audience, and even the culture and time of surrounding the text. (Columbia Public Health, 2021)

These methods are ideally suited for use in the analysis of food and beverage advertisements to determine the themes presented by product manufactures. To determine the presence of addictive behaviors, criteria outlined in a 2019 study which examined binge eating disorder and food addiction behaviors in American advertising in ice cream, candy, cookies, chips, snack cakes, cereal, granola bars, fast food, frozen prepared meals, and fruit yogurt advertisements will be adapted for use in this book. In the Danowski study, a BED/FA (binge eating disorder/food addiction) Advertising Analysis Chart was created to measure addictive, behavioral, emotional, and physical characteristics of binge eating disorder and food addiction. To create the chart, Danowski used information from the DSM-5, the Food Addiction Institute, and the National Eating Disorders Association as well as “[c]riteria based on intake/diagnostic questions for potential patients and the general public, rewritten to reflect use in food advertisement analysis” (Danowski 2019, 10). Though in this study, the researcher examined specific characteristics in four different categories (addictive, behavioral, emotional, and physical), a general list of food addiction behavior characteristics can be extrapolated from the BED/FA Advertising Analysis Chart for use in this book. The following characteristics will be used to determine food addiction behaviors: “Signs of using food to relieve emotional discomfort/seek emotional change” and “representations of deep emotional attachment to food” (Danowski 2019, 11). While the themes used to promote ultra-processed foods are outlined by the focus of each chapter, the main focus of this book will be to identify the food addiction behaviors used to promote ultra-processed foods. In the next chapter and throughout this book, various themes used to advertise ultraprocessed foods will be examined and examples of ads will be discussed. In chapter 2, the notion of eating high-calorie foods as rebellion will be outlined. Examples of advertisements that promote using food to rebel against healthy eating recommendations will be discussed, as will the portrayals of healthylooking people in these ads. In addition to the idea of “Happy Eating,” the notion of normalizing unhealthy eating behaviors will also be illustrated.

Chapter 2

I’ll Eat What I Want, When I Want

In 1984, three elderly ladies looked at a hamburger with an overly large bun and yelled to an unseen fast-food worker, “Where’s the beef?” This commercial for Wendy’s would go down in history as one of the best ever created, firmly entrenching the slogan in American pop culture, even making its way into the spring primaries of a debate between presidential candidates Walter Mondale and Gary Hart in which Mondale used the phrase to question Hart’s “new ideas.” The purpose of the commercial was to rebel against fast-food restaurants’ lack of beef in the burgers they served. Though the rebellion in this ad was against other fast-food companies, the underlying encouragement to add more beef reflects the addictive belief that more is better. For someone who suffers from food addiction, the idea of eating more and using food as a means of reliving emotional discomfort or to seeking emotional change is at the core of dysfunction thinking. A food addict is driven to eat greater amounts of their addictive substances and to do whatever is necessary to obtain these items. A commercial which questions the amount of beef in fast-food hamburgers focuses on this need to eat more, and it does so in an entertaining way, providing a distraction from the feelings of guilt and remorse accompanying addictive behaviors. The questioning about the size of the beef portion in an overly demanding tone in the Wendy’s commercial also illustrates the addictive phenomenon known as the “King Baby” Syndrome, which focuses on the childish traits of addictive behavior. Some of these behaviors include narcissism, bossiness, immediate gratification, and strong demands that others will meet the needs of the addict. In the Wendy’s commercial, Clara Peller, the actress who yells, “Where’s the beef?” does so in an overly harsh tone, so much so that the commercial was initially rejected and had to be reworked due to 19

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Peller’s “louder and harsher way of speaking” (Logie 2020). This type of behavior is consistent with “King Baby” Syndrome, reflecting the addict’s sole focus on his or her addictive substance. Peller’s demanding way is a clear illustration of food addiction behavior serving as a representation of deep emotional attachment to food as well as a reflection of the urgency that accompanies it. In this example, the rebellion theme is used to demand more food, specifically fast-food beef. It’s important to note that though processed sugar, flour, wheat, and caffeine are some of the foods most food addicts are addicted to, many also have an addiction to fatty foods such as that from the beef in fast-food hamburgers. According to the restaurant’s website, the burger, known as “Dave’s Single,” contains “a quarter-pound of fresh British beef, American cheese, crisp lettuce, tomato, pickle, ketchup, mayo, and onion on a toasted bun just the way Dave intended” (Wendy’s 2023). Additional sources of addictive foods in the Wendy’s burger include the sugar and yeast in the bun, the sugar in the mayonnaise and ketchup, and the modified potato starch in the cheese slice. The burger has 611 calories, 36 grams of fat with 13 of these grams being saturated fat, and 39 grams of carbohydrates (Wendy’s 2023). Most experts recommend a moderately active female in her mid-20s to 50s eat approximately 2,000 calories per day and for a male of the same age approximately 2,600 calories per day. While the 611 calories seem to fit with these calorie recommendations, consider the fact that this is only for one burger. The calories of side dishes such as fries (between 239 and 299 for medium and large servings), chili-cheese fries (481 calories), bacon and cheese potato (405 calories), baconator fries (459 calories), and beverages such as a small Coke (152 calories), a latte (146 calories), or a hot chocolate (240 calories) are not included. Chances are fairly good that very few customers order only one burger without any side dishes or drinks, which would mean that eating a burger, baconator fries, and a small Coke would result in consuming 1,222 calories more than half of the total daily recommended for females and nearly half for males. This does not take into consideration the unhealthiness of fast food itself, which will be discussed later in this chapter. It is clear from this example that ultra-processed food is promoted in an addictive way. While the danger of this may not seem serious, consider the study mentioned in the previous chapter about “Happy Violence” and the way children were more likely to resort to violence after observing it on television without seeing any consequences. Translate this to food, and it becomes clearer how “Happy Eating” advertisements with rebellious themes both contribute to the obesity crisis and encourage addictive behaviors toward food.

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“THE THING YOU WANT” Don’t worry about your health, eat whatever you want. That’s the message in a 2013 McDonald’s print advertisement, which features an extreme closeup of the company’s Big Mac positioned on a deep red background with a slightly upward camera angle. Despite the bold white text over the burger, thick meat patties, melted cheese, dripping sauce, and lettuce are clearly visible. The white text, which covers most of the burger and is further highlighted by the deep red background, reads, “The thing you want when you order salad” (adRuby 2013). The text is in all capital letters to emphasize the rebellious nature of the advertisement, which is obviously designed to create backlash against healthy eating and help foster a deep emotional attachment to the fast food advertised. What’s not so obvious are the effects of eating the Big Mac instead of the salad. Feel-good brain chemicals are triggered in the first ten minutes, which is similar to the way drugs such as cocaine create compulsive use (Fast Food Menu Price 2015). Within the first twenty minutes, the body is set up to crave more of the high-fructose corn syrup in the bun, and by thirty minutes, the high level of sodium has begun attacking the body, causing dehydration that mimics feelings of hunger. Within forty minutes, the body craves more fast food while at the same time “it can take more than three days to fully digest a Big Mac” (Fast Food Menu Price 2015). The concept of eating whatever someone desires is the foundation of the uncontrollable nature of active addiction. At the heart of all addiction is the overwhelming physical and emotional desire to consume as much of the addictive substance as possible. For a food addict, encouragement to eat “the thing you want” is unrestrained permission to continue addictive behaviors. In many cases, a food addict will eat much more than one Big Mac and experience the health issues outlined at the Fast Food Menu Price website to a much greater degree than the average person who chooses to eat one Big Mac occasionally. Unlike those who indulge occasionally, the food addict will experience more powerful cravings driving them to eat more and more of this food. As Parylak, Koop, and Zirrilla note, “Repeated, intermittent intake of palatable food may instead amplify brain stress circuitry and downregulate brain reward pathways such that continued intake becomes obligatory to prevent negative emotional states via negative reinforcement” (2011, 149). In other words, because someone who is addicted to food almost always regularly eats ultra-processed foods, their brain chemistry is altered to the extent that they must eat greater and greater amounts of food to avoid feeling depressed or sad. For those who are not food-addicted, regular eating of Big Macs or ultraprocessed food has the potential to cause not only obesity but the potential to

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result in full-blown food addiction. The early stages of food addiction involve difficulties maintaining a normal body weight, repeated cycles of weight loss and weight gain, and sometimes eating large amounts of food with sugar and/ or excess fat, which, if left untreated, result in full-blown addiction (Food Addiction Institute 2022). This means those who are not yet food-addicted have the potential to become so by regularly eating Big Macs and/or other ultra-processed foods. A food advertisement encouraging consumers to eat “the thing you want” promotes addictive behavior by fostering a deep emotional attachment to food through normalizing the use of food to seek emotional change while at the same time demonizing the healthy food these potential food addicts need to prevent what has the potential to be a lifetime of addictive behaviors. The idea of telling customers to rebel against salad creates a food hierarchy in which unhealthy items are portrayed as superior in taste that can result in skewed perception about healthy eating. Seeing advertisements in which thin, healthy-looking actors are enjoying ultra-processed foods may create false beliefs about the consequences of eating these items. In other words, if it seems as if “everyone is doing it” and they appear healthy, then the seriousness of eating these foods can be diminished by normalizing unhealthy eating habits, thus resulting in a “Happy Eating” portrayal. Repetition makes advertisements powerful and memorable. When consumers see the same product repeatedly advertised, they feel comfortable and familiar with this item, many times causing them to purchase it. Marketing techniques such as the one used in the Big Mac advertisement repeatedly encourage consumers to rebel against healthy eating by “freeing” themselves from these ideas and eating unhealthy food. Add to this the demonization of healthy food, in this case the thing no one wants (salad), and there exists an environment created to sell unhealthy food while discouraging healthy eating. Magnify this over the more than 5,000 advertisements each day and 5.3 trillion display ads each year (USC Dornsife 2023) consumers are exposed to, and the power of this influence to destroy healthy eating is evident. It’s also worth noting that many fast-food restaurants add ultra-processed foods to their salads, which results in a seemingly healthy meal being turned into an unhealthy one. A recent HuffPost article listed seven of the unhealthiest fast-food salads as identified by several nutritionists. The list included a Chicken Club Salad at Burger King, which contains breaded chicken, cheese, and garlic croutons, the Spicy Caesar Chicken Salad at Wendy’s, which also includes breaded chicken, croutons, and cheese in its list of ingredients, and the Fiesta Taco Salad at Taco Bell, which contains cheese and red tortilla chip strips (Iseman 2019). Many times, to market these salads as healthy fast-food establishments use well-known healthy vegetables in the advertising. In 2016, McDonald’s introduced the “Keep Calm, Caesar On” chicken salad which

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contained “real parmesan” cheese petals and a “nutrient-rich lettuce blend with baby kale” (Lenzo 2016). While kale is certainly a healthy vegetable that has received much attention for its nutritional benefits, the McDonald’s salad contained “more calories, fat, and sodium than a Double Big Mac burger” with nearly half of the daily suggested calorie intake and nearly three quarters of the recommended sodium intake for a day (Lenzo 2016). This type of marketing highlights the small amount of healthy food in an otherwise unhealthy meal, which provides the rationalization those addicted to food need to binge.

“BETTER-FOR-YOU” CEREAL Magic Spoon cereal, founded in 2019, promotes itself as a “better-for-you” cereal targeted at adults. The company’s advertising campaigns promise zero added sugar, high protein, and low carbs while at the same time encouraging rebellion against the idea that cereal is just for children. A 2023 ad for the cereal opens with the question, “Too old for cereal?” with the words, “We think not.” underneath immediately encouraging rebellion against the idea that adults shouldn’t eat cereal (“Magic Spoon TV Spot” 2023). Following that, cofounders Gabi Lewis and Greg Sewitz are shown telling viewers, “Sugary cereal is delicious, but it doesn’t hit our goals,” then explaining that they reinvented it with the “same great taste, more protein, and 0 g of sugar” so that viewers can have their “cereal and eat it, too” (“Magic Spoon TV Spot” 2023). In the “About Us” section of their website, the two founders describe their experience with sugary cereal saying, “We both grew up eating cereal every morning for breakfast, binging on the sugary crunch of the classic brands and then crashing in the afternoon when we were supposed to be at our most productive” (Magic Spoon Website 2023). It’s worth noting that this description provided by the two Magic Spoon cofounders is consistent with the description of binge behavior experienced by food addicts while the idea of working hard to create a “healthy” cereal represents a deep emotional attachment to food. Similarly, the idea that consumers aren’t “too old” to eat cereal indicates use of food to relieve emotional discomfort and/or seek emotional change, which is a food addiction characteristic (Danowski 2019, 11). According to an independent nutritional review by medical personnel at Illuminate Labs, the ingredients in Magic Spoon Cereal, except for natural flavors, are healthier than most other breakfast cereals. However, as the researchers point out, “Eating a whole-food, nutritionally dense breakfast like eggs and a salad with nuts would be healthier” (Illuminate Labs 2021). In other words, cereal, no matter how “relatively healthy” the ingredients are, is still an ultra-processed food, which by definition is unhealthy. Encouraging consumption of this product through rebellion of age constraints provides

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consumers with the perfect excuse to overindulge in this product, reasoning that if it’s “healthy” then they can eat as much as they want. Of course, this is not true, and the health dangers caused by eating ultra-processed foods still exist. Several recent studies point to the dangers of eating ultra-processed foods, which include premature death (Nilson, et al. 2022), excessive calorie intake, and weight gain (Hall, et  al. 2019), and increased risk of dementia (Li, et  al. 2022), with some noting that ultra-processed foods are designed to cause overconsumption and change the way people eat. “They [ultraprocessed foods] have hyper-palatability. We say they have ‘hyper-flavors’— they will be very sweet, very salty . . . and because they are ready to eat, they will replace traditional diets” (Law 2023). Tim Spector, a professor of genetic epidemiology, points out that ultra-processed foods encourage people to eat too fast and interfere with digestion and satiety signals to the brain. He notes, Either it [ultra-processed food] sends signals to the brain or to the gut microbes to eat more, or it’s simply that the food is so easy to eat that it gets into the system so fast that you don’t have time to get your fullness signals in the brain. (Law 2023)

“SILLY WHOPPER” A 2007 Burger King ad encourages rebellion against its competitor by pointing out the difference in size between the two establishments’ burgers. The ad shows a Whopper positioned over a McDonald’s Big Mac box. In the ad, the Whopper is clearly too large to fit in the Big Mac Box. To the right of the image are the words in all-capital white letters on a black background, “Silly Whopper, that’s a Big Mac box” (Adspot 2007). Not only does this attempt to remind consumers of the Whopper’s larger size, but it also encourages rebellion not only against Burger King’s competitor, McDonald’s, but also against smaller products, which, according to this ad, are inferior. In addition to this, needing to have a larger burger represents a deep emotional attachment to food while the act of rebelling against “small food” can be seen as a sign of using food to relieve the emotional discomfort of feeling unfulfilled by not having enough food. Additionally, the rebellion in this ad is against small burgers which encourages overeating. Since the product in this ad is unhealthy, it’s not difficult to assume the rebellion is against healthy eating itself. While the Whopper is high in calories, 790 for the regular size with cheese and 1,061 for a double with cheese, as with all fast food, the health dangers are severe enough to warrant concern. Yet, the idea of rebellion against not only healthy eating but

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also listening to authority figures, in this case health professionals, is appealing to a number of people who find satisfaction in rebellion. “HAVE IT YOUR WAY” Perhaps one of the most well-known rebellion-themed advertising campaigns of all time is the Burger King “Have It Your Way” slogan. One of the first advertisements in the campaign, which was introduced in 1974, told consumers, You have the right to have what you want, exactly when you want it. Because on the menu of life, you are “Today’s Special.” And tomorrow’s. And the day after that. And . . . well, you get the drift. Yes, that’s right. We may be the King, but you my friend are the almighty ruler. (Hook Agency 2023)

Before continuing, it’s worth pointing out that the “right to have what you want, exactly when you want it” is a characteristic of addictive behavior. Driven by overpowering physical cravings initiated by brain chemistry, a food addict must eat their addictive substances exactly when they experience these overwhelming biological urges. Adding the theme of rebellion into this phenomenon normalizes addictive behavior by speaking directly to the food addict’s inability to control their cravings while also encouraging consumption of addictive food substances which increases addictive behaviors and deepens addiction. Equally as important is the fact that telling consumers they are “the almighty ruler” provides them with a pseudo sense of power that is lacking in those addicted to food. Food addicts feel powerless to stop eating and are often completely overwhelmed by their drive to eat foods they know aren’t healthy. This particular ad, and the “Have It Your Way” campaign in general, promise consumers a measure of control over their food, which is ultimately the wish of every food addict—to eat what they want without experiencing consequences (Food Addiction Institute 2022). This is, of course, also at the heart of “Happy Eating” advertisements such as this. Similarly, the rebellious nature of the “Have It Your Way” slogan allows consumers to rebel against mass-produced food on the surface and healthy eating in a more subtle way. The campaign was replaced by others through the years until the company came back to it in 2004; then in late 2022 the tagline was modernized to “You Rule.” The “You Rule” campaign is part of Burger King’s $400 million comeback campaign that added hip-hop music to remind consumers of their ability to customize menu options. In a statement the company’s CEO Tom O’Keefe

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noted that in the “You Rule” campaign “We’re giving them [customers] permission to feel like winners, with Burger King as a small reward that makes their day a bit better” (Coley 2022). The idea of using food “as a reward” to “make their day a bit better” speaks to the core of addiction. Food addicts mistakenly believe that by eating their addictive substances they will feel happy, relieve their emotional discomfort, change the way they feel, and make their lives better. The “You Rule” campaign is designed, as was the “Have It Your Way” one before it, to provide customers with the illusion of control over their food choices; few, if any, of these choices are healthy and most are physically addictive. THE REBEL WHOPPER While many of the examples in this chapter include the rebellion theme in a subtle way, a 2020 advertisement also from Burger King UK was much less subtle. The ad was for the company’s Rebel Whopper which advertised it as the “Tastes of Being Woke” and proclaimed “100% Whopper. No Beef” (McGonagle 2020). The use of the word Rebel in the name of the burger is significant for two reasons. The first, as in other Burger King advertising campaigns, is the encouragement of rebellion against its competitors, which is once again present in this ad. The second, however, is not so obvious. Despite the “No Beef” claim stating the burger was suitable for vegans and vegetarians, it was cooked alongside meat products and the mayonnaise used contained eggs, violating vegans’ shunning of all animal product foods. The company was forced to discontinue advertising by the UK regulatory board, the Advertising Standards Authority (McGonagle 2020). In the United States, the burger is called the Impossible Whopper and has attracted similar controversy. The naming of the UK Rebel Whopper along with the advertisement promise of “Being Woke” reflects the rebellious theme described in this chapter yet in a sophisticated manner by acknowledging customers’ concerns about the environmental and health dangers of eating red meat. On the surface, this can be seen as a rebellion against further environmental and health dangers which come from red meat eating. However, since the majority of the company’s products contain red meat and have been proven unhealthy, this “rebellion” is only a pseudo one. In fact, Sharon Zarabi RD, director of the Bariatric Program at Lenox Hill Hospital in New York City, told Healthline that the U.S. Impossible Whopper isn’t actually healthier. The original Whopper clocks in at 660 calories (more than half of them coming from fat), 40 grams of fat, and 28 grams of protein. The Impossible Whopper

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comes in at 630 calories (again, half from fat), 34 grams of fat, and 25 grams of protein. (Mammoser 2019)

The article continues on to state that “The Impossible Whopper does have significantly lower cholesterol—10 milligrams compared to 90 milligrams— but has more sodium at 1,240 milligrams compared to 980 milligrams” (Mammoser 2019). In other words, the Rebel Whopper is actually not as rebellious and “woke” as advertisers would have consumers believe. It’s also important to note that food, which is advertised as healthy, as the Rebel Whopper is, worsens a habit of addiction known as justification. Justification is the creation of reasons to justify continued use of their addictive substances. In this case, the thinking goes something like this: Since there’s no red meat in this burger, I can eat it and if it’s healthier, I can have two or three. Though to someone who is not an addict, this may not make sense, justification is a powerful addictive habit that often results in additional years of substance abuse. And advertising is the vehicle which helps to support this habit. Food addicts are all too willing to believe anyone or anything that helps them continue eating those foods to which they are addicted, especially if they can do so in support of environmental or health improvements as suggested in the Rebel Whopper advertisement. Similarly, the promise of eating “healthy” fast food from a company that appears to care about their wellbeing creates a deep emotional attachment in food addicts to the food and that company, a characteristic of food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11).

REBELLION AND MODERN FOOD ADVERTISING The rebellious theme in food advertising is a fairly modern phenomenon. Most food advertisements in the nineteenth century and most of the twentieth century contained themes such as love, freedom, and fear, to name a few. As advertisements, in general, and food advertisements specifically become more sophisticated, the themes used in them did as well. Advertisers’ most fundamental message to women, and one that underscored all others, was that food is love [sic]. In addition to more expected appeals to taste and quality, advertisers touted their products’ love value. They encouraged women to show their love for others with food and promised that women could earn their family’s love by serving certain foods. (2006, 30)

The love theme will be discussed later in this book in chapter 9. While it’s nearly impossible to pinpoint the exact time the rebellious theme grew popular in food advertisements, the rebellion theme became well known

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in Volkswagen Beetle car ads during the late 1950s, in Virginia Slims cigarettes ads in the late 1960s, and in various liquor ads, including G&W in the 1930s. It appears that the rebellious theme in food advertisements appeared later in the 1970s in small number, mainly fast-food restaurants, and in greater number in the 1990s and beyond. This foundation most likely has its roots in the cultural and political climate of the 1960s being a decade known for cultural and political rebellion and the 1970s popular as the “me” decade, providing impetus for the rebellion theme in future food ads. A 2019 study proves how effective the concept of rebellion in food advertising can be. The researchers reframed junk food marketing messages as “incompatible with important adolescent values, including social justice and autonomy from adult control” (Bryan, Yeager, and Hinojosa 2019, 596). When they did so, they found improved food choices and less positive association with junk food advertisements which lasted at least three months (Bryan, Yeager, and Hinojosa 2019, 596). The researchers note, “These findings suggest that reframing unhealthy dietary choices as incompatible with important values could be a low-cost, scalable solution to producing lasting, internalized change in adolescents’ dietary attitudes and choices” (Bryan, Yeager, and Hinojosa 2019, 596). As the researchers point out, food advertisements are designed to provide positive associations with unhealthy food. It’s not difficult to understand how attractive unhealthy food becomes when customers are reminded by slick advertising campaigns how rebellious eating that food is. As evidenced by the advertisements outlined in this chapter, the use of the rebellion theme is largely prominent in fast-food advertisements. From a health perspective, this is especially dangerous due to the wide availability and convenience of these types of food. If fast-food manufacturers can entice consumers with the promise of rebelling against healthy eating and include addictive substances, such as high-fructose corn syrup, sodium, and fat, in their food, it is nearly impossible for consumers even those who are not food addicts to resist eating large quantities of these foods then returning again and again. In other words, the foundation of the rebel theme in advertisements draws consumers in with the pseudo promise of being “free” of healthy eating yet holds them captive to unhealthy foods, causing a dependence which actually takes away the very freedom they seek.

“EAT LIKE YOU MEAN IT” In line with this, the idea of rebelling against society is portrayed as something to be admired in movies and on television. Transferring this idea into fast-food advertising creates the mistaken image of machoism and strength

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that can appeal greatly to those who feel powerless in their own lives. A 2017 Hardees billboard advertisement in Owatonna, Minnesota, exemplifies this idea. On the right side of the billboard is a close-up of a bacon and egg sandwich with both the egg and the bacon strips hanging over the bun. On the right side of the billboard is a close-up of a cheeseburger with a thick beef patty, lettuce, tomato, and dripping cheese and ketchup oozing over the beef. In between the two in black type and all capital letters are the words, “Eat like You Mean It,” positioned directly above the company’s logo (Almay 2017). The encouragement to put all efforts into eating encourages overconsumption of ultra-processed food while at the same time urging rebellion against portion control. The slogan also mimics the title of a 2011 bestselling book, “Play Like You Mean It,” by New York Jet’s coach Rex Ryan, which creates an association between eating unhealthy food and sports (this phenomenon will be discussed in chapter 6.) encouraging consumers to put everything they have into eating unhealthy food in the same way professional athletes do in the sports they play. The “Eat like You Mean It” slogan is an example of the intensity with which those addicted to food eat as well as the deep emotional attachment to food they experience. Driven by overwhelming physical cravings, food addicts truly spend the majority of their waking hours planning, cooking, buying, preparing, and eating food. Addiction of any kind is all-encompassing in the later stages, and food addiction is no exception to this. As Amanda Leith, a food addict now in recovery, notes, food addiction consumes its victims’ lives. Before recovery, summertime equaled profuse sweating . . . It meant camping. .  .  . Camping included eating junk food all day and night. As the rest of the world became excited and energized, connecting with others in the picturesque outdoors, I stood on the sidelines watching—sad, lonely, and ashamed—while desperately trying to portray that all was good and that my life was great. The truth was my life was far from great. I was tethered to my obsession with food, body, and weight. I felt anything but free. (Leith 2023)

The juxtaposition between the idea of eating “like you mean it” and being feeling “sad, lonely, and ashamed” is an important one. In essence, encouraging consumers to overeat ultra-processed foods can result in a serious addiction for many. For others, it can cause some of the major health issues outlined in this chapter. Clearly and in the interest of successfully promoting the products, these consequences are not mentioned in the advertisements. Quite the opposite, overeating is lauded as commendable and something to be proud of while rebelling against those who encourage healthy eating. Though

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there is danger in making a “sport” of overeating and encouraging it, the real danger lies in demonizing healthy eating, which is the only solution to both the overwhelmingly serious obesity problem and food addiction. Ads using the rebellious theme to promote ultra-processed foods provide positive reinforcement for overeating and negative messages about healthy eating, thus severely diminishing recovery efforts. RESTAURANT ADVERTISING AND OBESITY A 2020 study examined the association between marketing and obesity in U.S. adults by monitoring almost 6 million people for four years (Bleich, et al. 2020). They found that “restaurant advertising spending was positively associated with weight gain for patients in low-income counties but not in high-income counties” and “associated with modest weight gain among adult patients in low-income counties” (Bleich, et al. 2020). The researchers also point out the absence of public policy or private sector action “to limit adult exposure to unhealthy restaurant advertising” and encourage reduction of restaurant advertising in low-income communities, noting that these efforts “should be intensified and rigorously evaluated to understand their potential for increasing health equity” (Bleich, et al. 2020). In their study, Bleich et al. explain the disparity between high- and low-income effects due to the less healthy foods marketed to low-income adults and note that this explanation is consistent with prior research. Healthy food costs more to buy, and those in low-income areas lack both the access and funds to obtain it, while fast-food is less expensive, is easier to obtain, and appears to be more filling. Though, of course, fast-food advertisements may not be the sole cause of the obesity epidemic, they are the magnet that draws people into these establishments to ingest unhealthy food, which has been proven to be a significant contributor to the obesity epidemic and, as is the premise of this book, food addiction. The lack of consequences portrayed in rebellion-themed advertisements encourages consumers to ignore the long-term health ramifications of eating fast food by deflecting attention to the so-called positive act of rebelling against societal practices and expectations. This deflection or, in the case of food addiction, denial is dressed up with pretty pictures, emotional sentiments and catchy slogans to allow for full-blown distraction wrapped up in a happy ending which is the heart of “Happy Eating” advertising techniques. In the next chapter, the concept of using food advertisement to portray eating as a form of play or fun will be examined, as will the practice of using physical activity in food advertisements directed at children.

Chapter 3

Kids Know Best What to Eat

In Guatemala in the early 1970s, Yolanda Fernandez Cofino observed a small boy struggling to finish a large hamburger in her husband Jose’s restaurant. This wasn’t the first time she had witnessed this struggle. In 1977, she decided to create a meal specifically for children which consisted of a hamburger, small fries, small Coke, and a small sundae. She also decided to add small toys which she shopped for at a local market. The meal would be served on a tray and called “Ronald’s Menu” named after the mascot for the restaurant chain her husband’s establishment was a part of. Later that year, she would present her idea at a McDonald’s marketing conference in Chicago, and with some help from a Kansas City advertising executive, Bob Bernstein, who is also known as its founder, the McDonald’s “Happy Meal” was born (Borrelli 2019). Nationally, the “Happy Meal,” which included either a hamburger or cheeseburger, fries, a soft drink, cookies, and a toy of either a top, puzzle, wallet, stencils or eraser encased in a circus wagon cardboard box, premiered in the summer of 1979, at a time when the restaurant was struggling to attract families. Six months later, the first “Happy Meal” movie promotional tie in with Star Trek: The Motion Picture was born and launched an onslaught of “special prizes” associated with iconic films, companies, and products, including everything from Barbies to Beanie Babies and Transformers to Toy Story characters. “FOOD AND FUN IN A BOX” In one of the first television commercials for the “Happy Meal,” a female McDonald’s worker promises viewers that “Your kids will love McDonald’s Happy Meal. It’s food and fun in a box” (Vintage TV Commercials 1979). 31

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She then goes on to describe the contents of the “Happy Meal” ending with “It all comes in Happy Meal box with games, puzzles, jokes and a prize” (Vintage TV Commercials 1979). As the worker says the word “prize,” a male customer with a young daughter looks toward the camera and enthusiastically says, “A prize?” with his daughter nearby who is holding a “Happy Meal” while lovingly glancing at it (Vintage TV Commercials 1979). The daughter later exclaims, “I’ve got a Happy Meal!” as her father looks on (Vintage TV Commercials 1979). Following this, music begins with the words “Nobody can do it like McDonald’s can” (Vintage TV Commercials 1979). McDonald’s now sells over 1 billion “Happy Meals” each year in over 100 different countries (Kelso 2021). In October 2022, McDonald’s introduced an Adult “Happy Meal” known as a “Cactus Plant Flea Market Box” named after a streetwear brand. The meal includes either a Big Mac or ten pieces Chicken McNuggets, fries, a drink, and a nostalgic toy prize of one of McDonald’s mascots, including Grimace, Hamburglar, and Birdie, or a new one named Cactus Buddy. For the year 2022, McDonald’s reported a 10.9 percent increase in sales with a 12.6 percent increase during the fourth quarter when the Adult “Happy Meals” were introduced (Reuter and Luna 2023). The Adult “Happy Meals” resulted in some locations selling out the first day and in the highest weekly digital sales ever (Reuter and Luna 2023). A commercial for the product featured animated versions of the mascots riding through town, then to a McDonald’s drive-thru window to order the meals. On the drive-thru menu display the words “Limited Edition” were prominently displayed with a white background to highlight the text. The practice of associating ultra-processed foods with fun for both children and adults and calling them “Happy Meals” is the epitome of “Happy Eating” advertising practices as well as creating deep emotional attachments to the food itself. This is especially evident by the use of high-profile crosspromotional tie ins. Throughout the years, some of the films used to promote “Happy Meals” include: Batman Forever, Jungle Book, Super Mario, Little Mermaid, The Wizard of Oz, The Lego Movie, Toy Story, Free Willy, The Flintstones: On The Rocks, Scooby-Doo, Bambi, The Lion King, 101 Dalmatians, Jurassic Park, The Smurfs, The Angry Birds Movie, The Real Ghostbusters, Spider Man, and, more recently, My Little Pony, Power Rangers, and Guardians of the Galaxy Vol. 3. The massive scope of the extensive promotional tie-ins with movies and other merchandise makes it impossible to provide an accurate count of the “Happy Meal” merchandise to date. However, with more than forty-four years of “Happy Meal” making and estimates of over one billion “Happy Meal” merchandise sold each year, it’s possible to estimate that the total number of “Happy Meal” toys circulated since 1979 to be approximately 50 billion. While this number is disturbing, consider how

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many advertisements promoted each “Happy Meal” throughout all types of media for several decades, a number certain to be in the high trillions. The food addiction behaviors included in these advertisements, some of which are using food to relieve emotional discomfort or seek emotional change, portrayals of using food as a means of bonding, and indicators of doing anything to obtain food with an inability to control cravings (Danowski 2019, 11), making it clear how powerful these “Happy Eating” portrayals have been throughout the years in normalizing addiction to food. Furthermore, research suggests that movie-tie in promotional material draws children to the meals accompanying them even if the food is healthy (Dixon, et al. 2017), which underscores the power “Happy Meal” merchandise has to encourage children to eat ultra-processed food. PLAY WITH YOUR FOOD Taking this a step further, consider how ingrained the combination of playing and eating ultra-processed foods has become. The marketing technique of telling children that they can get “happy” by purchasing a “meal” at a fast-food restaurant is one that ignores the true purpose of food—to nourish one’s body. Turning food into a “Happy Meal” and offering a highly popular prize along with unhealthy food creates the foundation for childhood obesity as well as food addiction. Children are taught not to play with their food yet here they are regularly exposed to thousands of advertisements telling them otherwise with the culmination of this being a fast-food meal designed for this very purpose. In the same way that Pavlov’s dog was conditioned to respond to a food stimulus, children have been taught to expect prizes, fun, and happiness with their meals. Consider the inclusion of McDonald’s Play Spaces in the restaurants up until 2020 when they were closed due in part to the COVID pandemic. Providing children with a space to go through tubes, slide into ball pits, and run around, these areas offered harried parents a way to entertain their children while also feeding them unhealthy food. “SUPER ENERGY” Though the “Happy Meal” and accompanying advertisements may be one of the most well-known marketing campaigns, there are many other products which associate food with playing and, in some cases, with physical activity. One of the most popular and enduring examples of this is the Kellogg’s Frosted Flakes advertising campaign with mascot Tony the Tiger. Created in 1951, the orange and black striped tiger became the official mascot of Kellogg’s

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Frosted Flakes in 1952, providing the company with a long-enduring cartoon icon to attract children of all ages. When the cereal was first introduced it was known as Kellogg’s Sugar Frosted Flakes. The “Sugar” would be dropped in the early 1980s due to backlash about refined sugar products. Early commercials for Sugar Frosted Flakes promoted the benefits of the sugar, frosting and “Super Energy” consumers would gain from eating the cereal. An early series of advertisements in the 1950s entertained viewers with “Super Energy Stories” showing ways Sugar Frosted Flakes could benefit those who ate the cereal. One of these ads, which were all animated, begins with an announcer saying, “Tony and the Indians. Another super energy story,” then cuts to Tony standing by a tree eating a bowl of Sugar Frosted Flakes addressing viewers as if telling them a story (Cerealmad 2022). “There I was eating my Kellogg’s Sugar Frosted Flakes. Delicious. Full of super energy. Sugar toasted. Tiger to tiger, I can tell you that for super energy, I wouldn’t miss my Kellogg’s Sugar Frosted Flakes” (Cerealmad 2022). While Tony is saying this, he is first shown being attacked by a group of Indians and then overcoming them, all the while continuing to hold his bowl of cereal. The commercial ends with an image of the box and Tony telling viewers they are “Delicious. Sugar toasted for super energy” (Cerealmad 2022). The dialogue and format in the series of commercials is the same while the “attackers” changed. Also, during this period, consumers were offered free “prizes” inside the cereal box. Some of these gifts included cowboy figurines, model guns, and Tony the Tiger badges. Though the focus of each advertisement was the prizes, viewers were continually reminded that Kellogg’s Sugar Frosted Flakes will provide them with “Super Energy” and that they were “Great!” In other commercials during this time, Tony is shown with his tiger son while participating in activities which are powered by the “Super Energy” in Kellogg’s Sugar Frosted Flakes. It’s important to remember that during this time, the general public had little, if any, knowledge about the effects of sugar and the “rush” that comes from eating it, which is the “Super Energy” of this cereal and not a true healthy energy from eating nutritious foods. It’s quite possible that the “Super Energy” from this cereal at this time in history seemed as if it really did exist and, perhaps, was even magical to children who believed they could excel at the activities in their lives. Of course, the idea of associating a sugar-filled food with healthy activity is problematic and even dangerous to the health of children during this time or any other. During the later 1950s, the animation began to fade replaced by “real” children, mainly in sports settings. A 1959 Frosted Flakes commercial begins with Tony the Tiger holding a box of Frosted Flakes, eating them while walking up to a group of little league baseball players. “Okay, boys, batting practice,” he says while putting flakes into his mouth (Saturday’s World 2019). As the boys take their places, Tony pitches a ball to a boy who doesn’t

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swing. Tony tells him, “Well, don’t just stand there, boy, hit it,” to which the boy replies, “Hit it? I didn’t even see it” (Saturday’s World 2019). Tony takes him back to a kitchen and pours him a bowl of Frosted Flakes telling the boy, “We’ll put a tiger on your team, Kellogg’s Sugar Frosted Flakes” and that the flakes are “packed with energy” (Saturday’s World 2019). When they return to the field, the boy hits the ball into Tony propelling him and the ball out of the park and thus creating a deep emotional attachment to the cereal, which is a food addiction characteristic (Danowski 2019, 11).

“BRINGS OUT THE TIGER IN YOU” Throughout the 1960s, the slogan “Put a tiger on your team” would be used in a variety of ways and associated with many sports, including skiing, gymnastics, boxing, sky diving, bull riding, and baseball, to name a few. In most of these commercials, Tony gives a child a bowl of Sugar Frosted Flakes and then either competes against or participates with the child in the activity. In one advertisement which takes place on a soccer field, Tony tells the child that he trains on Kellogg’s Sugar Frosted Flakes creating a direct association between success, health, and sports with the cereal. In most commercials, Tony ends up being inadequate at the activity in a humorous sort of way such as rolling down a hill and turning into a snowball in the skiing ad, while the child excels in a professional way at the sport. Of course, having Tony as the inadequate fall guy makes him even more endearing to the children watching these commercials who will never achieve the level of success the children in the ads did. It also sends a message about children being superior to adults, or, in this case, an adult tiger. This phenomenon served as the foundation for the concept of children knowing better and being smarter about what to eat that appears in later food advertisements. In commercials when an activity wasn’t included, most times the slogan “Put a tiger on your team” was, which reminds consumers of the association between the cereal, team sports, and physical activity while also fostering the development of deep emotional attachments to Frosted Flakes with portrayals of relief from emotional discomfort through emotional change, both food addiction characteristics (Danowski 2019, 11). During the 1970s, though Tony was consistently shown participating in activities and having fun, there appeared to be a focus on reminding viewers that the cereal was made from corn as Tony was shown in corn fields in some advertisements as well as a greater emphasis on families. In a 1970s commercial, Tony addresses the idea that fun and activities have been present in Frosted Flakes advertisements throughout the year while sitting down for breakfast with his own family. He begins by addressing mothers, “Oh, hi,

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moms. You’re used to seeing Tony the Tiger having fun and playing games,” while sitting at the table with a female tiger and two children who are his family (Cow Missing 2020). The female tiger is getting breakfast together for the tiger family. As the activity continues around the family table, Tony says, “But I want to remind you that although Kellogg’s Sugar Frosted Flakes is fun food, it’s also good food” (Cow Missing 2020). After one of his tiger children asks for the milk, Tony says, “You get the goodness of corn plus vitamins and iron and a secret toasting and frosting that everyone likes” (Cow Missing 2020). As he tells viewers that everyone likes the cereal, his toddler tiger daughter is shown in a highchair with a bright pink bow between her ears eating a bowl of Frosted Flakes and smiling before she says, “Me, too,” after which Tony reminds viewers that Frosted Flakes is “for the entire family” and then says it’s “Good morning food that tastes great” as his whole family joins him in saying “great,” after which Tony says, “Aren’t families wonderful?” (Cow Missing 2020). Not only does this commercial show a deep emotional attachment to an ultra-processed food, it also includes a portrayal of using food as a means of bonding, both of which are characteristics of food addiction behavior (Danowski 2019, 11). “Brings Out the Tiger in You” The “Put a tiger on your team” slogan appears to have morphed into the more personal 1980s and 1990s slogan, “Brings out the tiger in you.” During this time, a common theme seemed to be children who were unable to excel in sports, which was remedied by help from Tony the Tiger in the form of eating Frosted Flakes Cereal. One 1987 ad, in particular, stands out for the exaggerated physical benefits of eating the cereal. The commercial opens with young teenagers water skiing and a girl watching them with Tony. After seeing how successful they are, she tells Tony that they should forget about water skiing. Tony tells her that she’ll feel ready to water ski after eating Frosted Flakes which will “Bring out the tiger in you” (Retropond 2021). The girl is revitalized and starts to water ski alongside Tony as background music says, “Show them you’re a tiger. Show them what you can do” as the girl, looking determined says, “Great” and makes a very high jump after which Tony congratulates her (Retropond 2021). The professionalism of the jump from a young girl who was initially unsure of herself creates a belief in an unrealistic hidden promise about the benefits of eating Frosted Flakes. Young children and teenagers are given the mistaken belief that eating this ultra-processed food will turn them into professionalquality water skiers who are admired for their skills which has the potential to result in overconsumption (Folta et al. 2006). In fact, the opposite is true. With 12 grams of sugar, 190 grams of sodium, and sugar as the second ingredient,

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the cereal poses very real health dangers to children. USC Professor of Pediatrics and Program Director for Diabetes and Obesity at Children’s Hospital Los Angeles Michael Goran notes that sugar affects children in a variety of ways. Studies show a negative impact on academic performance, learning and memory. Children experience metabolic outcomes like fatty liver disease, diabetes, heart disease and inflammatory conditions like asthma, acne and even gout. And then there are digestive issues because of the effects of sugar on the gut microbiome and gut function. (Lindberg 2020)

None of these conditions mentioned by Goran is consistent with professional-level athletic performance as portrayed in many of the Frosted Flakes commercials. In addition to this, the belief that Frosted Flakes can help children to become professional-level athletes can create a deep emotional attachment to the product, thus fostering food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11). By the turn of the century, Tony the Tiger became an acclaimed celebrity in Frosted Flakes commercials and was mainly shown surrounded by children who were participating in sports or activities. The concept during this time was that children wanted to be Tony but were satisfied to simply spend time with him. Advertisements during this time featured groups of children doing various activities with Tony involved. As in previous years, Tony once again was portrayed as being inadequate. By 2010, however, that changed as Tony’s popularity seemed to grow even more. A commercial aired during that year proclaimed Kellogg’s Corn Flakes as being “everywhere we go” and featured a montage of children in different sporting events eating the cereal (Canipe 2016). In this particular commercial, the majority of children are dressed in team uniforms and at the end are encouraged to “earn their stripes,” giving a team-like association with the product. Also, the phrase “We are tigers” is used, which lays the foundation for future advertisements. Ironically, according to these commercials, it takes eating an ultra-processed, unhealthy food to make children tigers, which is actually a misplaced portrayal of not only healthy eating practices, but also the concept of team spirit and pride oftentimes found with playing sports. The juxtaposition of the slogan with the cereal is striking in its unreality, and a possible impetus for increased consumption as noted by researchers studying physical activity in food advertisements (Folta, et al. 2006). “Let Your Great Out!” Several years later, a 2018 “Mmmm Chocolate!” Chocolate Frosted Flakes advertisement shows young children and an adult male exclaiming the virtues

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of the chocolate added to the cereal along with Tony the Tiger. The adult male and the male child cheer, “Yeah! Chocolate!” while others dance to the words, “Mmmm chocolate,” with one female child even holding her arm out and appearing to pass out from excitement about the chocolate added to the cereal. All of this is underscored by an enthusiastic male announcer who says, “Crunch into chocolatey greatness!” just before Tony ends the commercial with “They’re great!” and the words “LET YOUR GR-R-REAT OUT!” appear under Chocolate Frosted Flakes (“Mmmm Chocolate” 2018). This ad, which first aired on January 1, 2018, and stopped airing on October 1, 2018, received over 4 billion TV impressions, of which more than 3.8 billion were shown nationally (“Mmmm Chocolate” 2018). And, according to a 2022 study, the ad also included eight portrayals of Binge Eating Disorder and food addiction behaviors, some of which involved using food to bond and/or replace relationships, grazing throughout the day, and depictions of an inability to concentrate due to food thoughts (Danowski 2022, 16). It’s also worth noting that in this same commercial though there are no portrayals of team sports, many of the children are shown waving their arms with one young girl even falling backward. Also, the males in the commercial are shown watching television in what appears to be a sports viewing. Thus, even without athletic portrayals, the correlation of physical activity is still present. This correlation to sports without actually showing teams playing is also evident in a 2022 commercial in which two new cereal flavors, Strawberry Milkshake and Cinnamon French Toast, are introduced. The advertisement begins with the doors of a gymnasium opening where a sportslike celebration is taking place. Cheerleaders are cheering. Sports team fans are jumping up and down. Confetti is flying. Students are holding boxes of Frosted Flakes cereal while gathering around Tony the Tiger. Tony points to a student’s jacket with the words “Team Classic” on it as cheerleaders are cheering and students with blue-painted faces are showing their team spirit. Tony is shown bursting through a pink sign with the words “Strawberry Milkshake” on it. Tony is wearing sunglasses and looking cool while cheerleaders cheer in the background. As various older and younger members of the school are shown dancing and cheering, Tony announces that the new flavors are “worth fanning over” (“Flavors to Fan Over” 2022). In front of a basketball hoop, students are shown holding a smaller sign with the words “Cinnamon French Toast” on it while one student jumps on a trampoline so that she appears higher than the basketball hoop. Tony ends the commercial with saying, “They’re great!” (“Flavors to Fan Over” 2022). As with the “Mmmm Chocolate” commercial, there are no portrayals of actual teams playing sports, but there is a clear correlation between the products and team sports or physical activity. The idea that the cereal is “worth fanning over” also evidences a deep emotional attachment to the food as well as a means of

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reliving emotional discomfort or causing emotional change, both food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11). “Mission Tiger” The correlation of Frosted Flakes with sports is especially evident in a fifteen-second commercial, which is part of the company’s “Mission Tiger” initiative. In the commercial, Tony is shown at a sports anchor desk next to Philadelphia Eagles quarterback Jalen Hurts. Between them is a box of Frosted Flakes, and the “Mission Tiger” logo is on the front of the desk. In the background is a school sports field with a set of metal bleachers. The commercial opens with Tony telling viewers that “Jalen and I teamed up to bring back school sports for kids in Philly cause I’m these kids’ biggest fan. Go to missiontiger​.c​om to see what happened” (“Mission Tiger” 2023). Jalen Hurts tells Tony that he is their biggest fan and then the two argue back and forth about this for a few seconds, while in the lower left corner, footage of students playing sports is shown. Jalen tells Tony that the student signed his shirt and Tony tells Jalen, “That’s cheating. I don’t even wear shirts” (“Mission Tiger” 2023). Six seconds into the commercial the words “Buy a box. Support the mission.” appear in white font (“Mission Tiger” 2023). At the “Mission Tiger” website, viewers are informed that the initiative, which was launched in 2019, is part of a team effort with DonorsChoose, a nonprofit organization focused on helping public school educators nationwide. When a receipt for the purchase of a box of Kellogg’s Frosted Flakes is uploaded to the website, the company makes a $2 donation to help middle school students “have better access to play sports” (Mission Tiger Website 2023). At the website it is noted that if an athletic program has been cut or a team needs new uniforms, visitors can fill out a donation request form or view past efforts. A counter at the website notes that, to date, 1,312,840 students have been helped. Visitors are urged to participate in the three-step process which includes the following: (1) Eat like a tiger (buy a box of Frosted Flakes. (2) Help kids play (upload a receipt). (3) See the impact (get involved). Also, at the website are quotes from thank-you notes about how much the program has helped schools, a button to download a “Best Practices” guide outlining inclusive and quality programs across the country, as well as an almost threeminute video titled “The Gr-r-reatest Comeback,” which showcases how this program helped middle school students in Philadelphia play a football game that included visits from Tony and Jalen Hurts. It is noted on the website that the minimum donation Kellogg’s will make during 2023 is $250,000 and the maximum is $500,000. The “Mission Tiger” campaign is problematic on many different levels, the first of these being the fact that a famous quarterback who is revered for

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his physical capabilities is shown in advertisements, thus creating an alliance between athletic abilities, success, health, and an unhealthy ultra-processed food. While, of course, it’s understandable for children to admire professional athletes, the pairing of these “heroes” with an unhealthy food creates a fraudulent connection between these two things. Viewers, especially children, are left to believe that eating Kellogg’s Frosted Flakes regularly will turn them into famous professional athletes. Taking this a step further, younger children unable to fully understand the marketing concept of a product mascot may admire Tony the Tiger and look to him as a savior who can “fix” the problems at their schools. In many of the product’s advertisements, Tony appears paternalistic, taking on the role of father figure for those children who are struggling athletically. This campaign takes the father-figure image to a new level by turning Tony into a national savior who can “magically” make schools a better place for children at a time of increased violence and unrest in many institutions across the country. At the same time, his presence in Frosted Flakes commercials throughout the years “potentially overrides children’s assessments of nutritional merit” of the cereal (Lapierre, Vaala, and Linebarger 2011). On an emotional level, fatherless children in economically challenged school districts watching images of Tony as a savior may seek comfort in eating Frosted Flakes cereal as a way to be “closer” to someone who they believe can help take them away from the difficulties in their lives. In reality, eating too much sugar can serve as a depressant, creating additional difficulties for these already-challenged children. Using food as a means of soothing emotions also lays the foundation for a possible food addiction in later years, most especially when it is used to seek emotional change from unhappy life circumstances (Food Addiction Institute 2022). On a physical level, the dangers of eating ultra-processed foods are absent from these commercials while at the same time children are shown playing sports and participating in physical activities, none of which are easy for those who are overweight, thus giving the mistaken idea that Frosted Flakes is a healthy food which will fuel children’s bodies. In reality, “Mission Tiger” is a way to create false emotional and physical expectations in children as well as foster a deep emotional attachment to the product, which is a food addiction characteristic (Danowski 2019, 11).

“THE MORE YOU EAT, THE MORE YOU WANT” Cereal products and fast food aren’t the only food items to create false expectations in children. Perhaps one of the most famous snack foods, known as “the original junk food” (Brown 2022), Cracker Jack not only offered prizes

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in its bright red boxes, but it was also immortalized in a song played at many baseball games written by Jack Norworth and composed by Albert Von Tilzer. The lyrics from the 1927 version of the song, titled “Take Me Out to the Ball Game,” remain popular today and are still sung during the seventhinning stretch at most games. A portion of the lyrics mention the snack food, which is, “Take me out with the crowd. Buy me some peanuts and Cracker Jack” (Baseball Almanac 2023). Always available for purchase at most baseball stadiums, Cracker Jack began putting prizes in their product in 1912 through 2016 when it replaced the prize with a small card containing a code to access an online video game at the company’s website. A 1950s-era comic book advertisement for the product illustrates the false physical expectations created. In the print ad, a young baseball catcher is shown sitting on a bench which says, “Eat Cracker Jack” on it while he is eating the product. There is a dialogue box in which he says, “Talk about quick energy . . . I really get a lift out of Cracker Jack” (UiiR 2023). Behind the bench to his left is a younger blonde-haired girl who is looking lovingly at a box of Cracker Jack and holding a prize. In a dialogue box, she says, “Did you know there’s a surprise novelty in every box! [sic]” (UiiR 2023). Behind the bench on the other side is a younger boy also holding a box of Cracker Jack. In a dialogue box he says, “No wonder—It’s candy coated popcorn—and is it ever good!” (UiiR 2023). There are also two birds on the bench, and each has a dialogue bubble as well. The red bird says, “It’s a hit in every park,” while the blue bird says, “The more you eat, the more you want” (UiiR 2023). The placement of the ad in comic books is important to note as well. During the early 1950s comic books remained popular until the later part of that decade when they came under fire by conservatives claiming they caused juvenile delinquency. Thus, placing an ad in a popular medium for children at the time can help to create a deep emotional attachment to the product, which is a food addiction behavior (Danowski 2019, 11). The clear connection between a team sport and an ultra-processed food not only gives a false impression but also creates an association between having extra energy to play the sport and eating the product. When the catcher, who is clearly older and appears stronger in the ad, tells young children everywhere that he gets “quick energy” and “a lift” from eating Cracker Jack, he is promising other children the same, which is untrue. Though there may be an initial “lift” from eating a sugar-filled food, enough long-lasting energy from that food to play a nine-inning game is not possible. Quite the opposite, the sugar “lift” will most likely barely make it through the first inning if even that. In addition, consumers are encouraged to buy more Cracker Jack from the slogan, “The more you eat, the more you want,” which was trademarked by the company in 1896, the same year the snack food went into production. The slogan itself directly reflects the experiences of those addicted to food.

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Literally, the more addictive food substances a food addict eats, the more he or she biologically craves (Food Addiction Institute 2022). Using a slogan such as this with an ultra-processed food high in sugar blatantly encourages addiction to the product and also creates a climate of acceptance of bingeeating behavior for those who are food addicts. As noted previously, denial of addiction is the largest barrier to food addiction recovery (Werdell 2022). A slogan normalizing eating more and wanting more directly promotes the growth of denial, allowing someone addicted to food the freedom to eat more since wanting to eat more is to be expected. The danger of cultivating addiction cannot be underestimated considering the diminishing impact it has on recovery.

CRACKER JILL In April of 2022, the Cracker Jack mascot was temporarily replaced on packaging by Cracker Jill to celebrate women in sports and the barriers they face. As part of the campaign, five different Cracker Jills of various ethnicities were used on special edition packages available at baseball parks across the country and also through donations of $5 or more to the Women’s Sports Foundation. The company made a $200,000 donation to the Women’s Sports Foundation to aid in its mission of research, advocacy, and support of community sports programs. A modern version of the “Take Me Out to the Ballgame” song, which included reference to Cracker Jill, sung by Normani was also released. While, of course, supporting women in sports is laudable, when it’s used as part of an advertising campaign for an unhealthy, ultra-processed food, it’s important to look deeper at the motivations driving the initiative while keeping in mind that research suggests physical activity in food advertisements encourages overconsumption of the product (Folta, et  al. 2006). Thus, the introduction of Cracker Jill represents a brilliant marketing strategy designed to expand the product’s consumer base. In 2022, the white male Cracker Jack mascot had the potential to alienate ethnic populations in an era of horrific violence against African Americans by police. Despite the nostalgia some consumers may feel for Cracker Jack, after this wave of violence across the country, the mascot has the potential to be more closely associated with the white male perpetrators, making Cracker Jack obsolete, or at the very least, diminishing his appeal to a certain select group of consumers. The introduction of five Cracker Jills each of different ethnicities not only provides good public relations for the company, but it also expands their consumer base by reinforcing a commitment to diversity and inclusion while at the same time tapping into a growing market already overwhelmed with ads for unhealthy foods (Harris 2020). Young girls, grateful to see images of

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women who look like them on Cracker Jack packages, may develop a deep loyalty to the product and perhaps even pass this loyalty down to their children, thus increasing sales of the product. Also, it’s important to remember that the product advertised and promoted is ultra-processed and includes 14 grams of three different types of sugars (sugar, corn syrup, molasses), making this a highly addictive substance for those addicted to food and an unhealthy one for normal eaters. Though the methods used in the expansion of the company’s consumer base are troubling, the deeper and more dangerous issue is the product’s association with sports. In general, those who play sports are deemed physically fit and strong yet those addicted to food many times suffer from obesity, both of which are direct opposites. Through its support of women in sports and its association with sports in general, Cracker Jack, like many other ultra-processed foods, has found a powerful way to divert consumers’ attention away from the unhealthiness of the product’s ingredients, foster a deep emotional attachment to its product, and create a means of emotional change in those who are unhappy, offering the promise of being part of a team if they eat the product, both food addiction characteristics (Danowski 2019, 11).

“ANIMAL CRACKERS IN MY SOUP” Using sports as a diversion away from unhealthy products is not the only play-themed technique employed by ultra-processed food manufacturers. One of the most well-known products in America has the play theme baked right in. Since 1902, Nabisco has been producing Barnum’s Animal Crackers in images of wild animals. While other companies manufacture animal crackers, Nabisco’s version developed a loyal following almost immediately due to the association with famed circus promoter P. T. Barnum, who included wild animals in his events. Originally promoted in advertisements as “a circus for children,” the crackers were encased in a bright red box with pictures of wild animals in cages and a string on the top of it. The string was included so that the box could also be used as an ornament on Christmas trees. A vintage 1947 black-and-white print ad for the product shows a large image of clown to the right of the back holding a box of animal crackers in the middle of the page. The text to the left of the clown says, “Hey kids! Have fun with a circus of your own!” (Ringling Bros. 2023). Below that in italicized print there is a rhyming poem which reads, “After the big show is over . . . take home your very own circus—with animal crackers galore!” (Ringling Bros. 2023). As with previously mentioned iconic food items, Barnum’s Animal Crackers are firmly rooted in American culture. In the 1935 movie Curly Top, Shirley Temple sang a song called “Animal Crackers in My Soup,” while

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more recently, in a 1998 episode of Buffy the Vampire Slayer characters pondered why the monkey cracker is the only one to have clothes while the other animal crackers do not (Buerger 2016). Throughout the years, thirty-seven different animal shapes have been developed with approximately nineteen different animals in a twenty-two-cracker box today (Buerger 2016). In 2018 after years of pressure from animal rights organizations, including the People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), Nabisco redesigned the product’s boxes to remove the cages and show the animals in a natural habitat just after Ringling Brothers removed elephants from their circuses in 2016. According to the Nation Today website, April 18, 2023, was National Animal Crackers Day. Though the organization is unsure of when the day was established, they list several activities to “celebrate” the day which include playing animal cracker poker, giving boxes of animal crackers to friends or family, and doing a “day-long dunk test” to see which beverage is best for dunking the crackers (National Animal Crackers Day 2023). They suggest celebrants, Start your day by dunking a few lions, tigers, and bears in your morning cup of coffee. Then dunk abundantly throughout the day—water, tea, milk, lemonade, cold brew. After a day of delicious dunking, conclude it with the last of your animal friends dunked in your favorite adult beverage. We think red wine pairs particularly well with the original biscuit-type crackers. Post your results on social media. (National Animal Crackers Day 2023)

While “celebrating” National Animal Crackers Day may seem innocent enough, consider the ramifications of combining an ultra-processed food, already designed for children to play with, and a “celebration” created to encourage deep emotional attachment to that food through overconsumption. Now, add to that the fact that the organization behind this day is also encouraging celebrants to advertise their results on social media. Not only does this provide free advertising for animal crackers, but it also encourages large groups of people to try the “day-long dunk test” to provide their opinion. This free and paid advertising can, as research suggests food advertisements do, result in overconsumption by very young children (Emon, et  al. 2016), children, and adults (Arrona-Cardoza, et al. 2023). In addition to social media advertising, the event was covered across the country on various news stations, thus creating awareness about the event, resulting in increased sales. For those addicted to food, the event, the social media advertising, and the news coverage provide a perfect excuse to eat then binge on animal crackers. With flour, sugar, dextrose, and fructose in the ingredients list, animal crackers are a highly addictive food which encourages overconsumption by not only food addicts but normal eaters with a preference for sweetness as well. In addition to this, “celebrating” a day focused on addictive food is a means of creating relief from emotional discomfort by seeking emotional change as

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well as creating a deep emotional attachment to the product, both of which are characteristics of food addiction (Danowski 2019, 11) and help normalize this “Happy Eating” event. POPPIN’ FRESH The concept of using the play theme in advertising is also present in one of the most iconic mascots ever created—the Pillsbury Doughboy, known as Poppin’ Fresh. According to the Pillsbury website, the idea for Poppin’ Fresh was born on March 18, 1965, from the mind of copywriter Ruby Perez to promote the quality and freshness of the refrigerated dough (Pillsbury Kitchens 2022). To create Poppin’ Fresh, stop-action clay animation was used with “24 shots for every one second of commercial time” and an “initial model cost of $16,000 to develop” that included “five bodies and 15 heads in order to create different looks and positioning in the ads” prior to 1992 when computer imagery replaced the clay animation (Pillsbury Kitchens 2022). In an advertisement from the 1960s, a young girl who is played by Maureen McCormick, Marcia from the popular Brady Bunch show, opens a cookie jar. Poppin’ Fresh jumps out and introduces himself saying, “Hi! I’m Poppin’ Fresh, the Pillsbury Doughboy” (Cass 2015). He asks the girl if she is out of cookies, and she nods her head yes. Poppin’ Fresh suggests they make some and is shown opening a tube of chocolate chip cookies which the girl tells him are her favorite. Close-ups are shown of the dough being sliced and baked as Poppin’ Fresh tells the girl, “If you’ll do the slicing, we’ll do the baking” (Cass 2015). Poppin’ Fresh suggests that while they’re waiting for the cookies to cool, they should sing a song with the following words. “Nothin’ says lovin’ like something from the oven. And Pillsbury says it best” (Cass 2015). During the stanza about “lovin’,” the girl puts her hand out and Poppin’ Fresh jumps into it. She raises it so they are eye level and then returns him to the counter, after which time she eats a cookie and tells him that they are good, and he is wonderful just before kissing him. He blushes just before he reminds viewers that “Pillsbury says it best” and that the cookies are homemade (Cass 2015). The last scene in the commercial is one that became Poppin’ Fresh’s signature appeal in which a hand pokes a finger in his stomach, and he giggles. The idea of having a “playmate” with whom a child can bake “homemade” cookies with is appealing to many children as a way of playing and having fun and also as a means of creating a deep emotional attachment to the product through this “playmate.” The soft, white, doughy qualities of Poppin’ Fresh as well as his wide smile and sing-song voice add to his appeal and remind children of the softness of the cookies. Throughout the years, Poppin’

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Fresh was featured in more than 600 advertisements for 50 products, including a 2012 MasterCard commercial which featured several different mascots seated around a table eating dinner (Pillsbury Kitchens 2022). In this commercial, the Morton Salt Girl pokes Poppin’ Fresh’s belly while an announcer says, “Getting everyone together for dinner. Priceless” (Pillsbury Kitchens 2022). Poppin’ Fresh also guest-starred in a 2013 Geico commercial, in which two musicians tell viewers that people who save money with Geico are “about as happy as the Pillsbury Doughboy on his way to a baking convention” (Pillsbury Kitchens 2022). In 2009, Poppin’ Fresh debuted as a balloon in the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day parade. The Pillsbury website notes, “At one point the Doughboy was receiving 200 fan letters a week and Pillsbury received 1,500 requests for autographed photos” (Pillsbury Kitchens 2022). After struggling for several years to develop his identity, in 1989, a new series of commercials was released to modernize Poppin’ Fresh and reflect a more modern time of women in the workplace. “Reflecting America’s budding affair with fitness, the Doughboy was shown skydiving, skateboarding and playing ‘air guitar’” in various advertisements (McCarthy 1998). As a result of this modernization, in the 1990s, “Pillsbury commands 80% of the category’s $1.44 billion in retail sales. That’s quite a return, given that Pillsbury spends only about $60 million a year on ads for the refrigerated-dough category” (McCarthy 1998). While the sales figures speak to the popularity of the products, the advertisements reflect the play theme of “Happy Eating” that provides food addicts with images of healthy activity associated with eating ultra-processed, unhealthy, addictive foods, which research suggests results in overconsumption of the product advertised (Folta, et al. 2006) as well as the use of creating relief from emotional discomfort or seeking emotional change, both of which are characteristics of food addiction (Danowski 2019, 11).

“EAT IT RAW” More recently, a 2022 ad begins with toddlers playing, first by painting their dog and then by smearing lipstick across their faces and cutting their hair. All the while music with the words, “No. No. No.” plays just after Doughboy’s giggle is heard (“Eat It Raw” 2022). In the next scene, two of the toddlers run to the kitchen as their mother is baking cookies. The boy picks up the chocolate chip cookie dough as a female announcer says, “Yes! You can eat Pillsbury cookie dough raw!” before Poppin’ Fresh appears in a blue background to say, “Or bake it!” with the words, “Yes! Eat it raw or bake it! It’s safe to eat raw if it has our seal on it” (“Eat It Raw” 2022). To the right of this Poppin’ Fresh is standing with a small sign saying, “Safe to eat raw,”

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with two bags and a cookie roll of chocolate chip dough next to him (“Eat It Raw!”). The portrayal of “negative” play experiences being turned into a positive event by eating raw cookie dough is a clear portrayal of using food to relieve emotional discomfort by seeking emotional change and sends a troubling message to children and adults alike. The idea for adults being that if you’re tired of your children getting into trouble and playing “incorrectly” then bake them cookies. For children, the message is if you make a mess or play in a way your parents don’t like then they will bake cookies to keep you out of trouble. Add to this, the fact that the images in this commercial reflect the idea that food addicts needing a sugar fix, oftentimes do not wait until the cookies are baked to binge. The idea of eating the cookie dough raw illustrates the urgency with which food addicts binge (Food Addiction Institute 2022). Though eating raw cookie dough may seem to be a normal childhood activity, consider the context of the commercial. To begin, the toddlers in the commercial are causing trouble and being told not to do the things they are. The act of baking cookies is seen as saving both the children and the parents from possible punishment from these actions. Quite the opposite, the children are allowed to eat raw cookie dough, which in this ad is portrayed as a reward, something wonderful, an act passed down through the ages that finally has a seal of approval. Additionally, children are told by one of their favorite mascots, Poppin’ Fresh, that it’s safe to eat the cookie dough raw. For young children, Poppin’ Fresh can be seen as an authority figure or even a substitute “fun” parent who allows them to eat delicious cookies, giggles a lot, and never yells at them, thus creating a deep emotional attachment to Poppin’ Fresh and the foods he advertises which research suggests can “potentially override children’s assessments of nutritional merit” of the products he promotes (Lapierre, Vaala, and Linebarger 2011).

HEALTHY MASCOTS A recent Harris Poll on behalf of Ad Age points to the popularity of product mascots, noting that 79 percent of the consumers polled said they enjoyed seeing mascots, with 69 percent expressing a preference for the mascots of their childhood over the ones used today (Prunsky 2021). When consumers were asked which mascots they would like to see return, they named mascots who were currently active. Tony the Tiger was the most popular choice, but Poppin’ Fresh was included in the top four (Prunsky 2021). The results of this survey speak to the personal attachment many feel to product mascots and thus the products themselves. From a marketing perspective, this attachment makes it more difficult to buy competing products where the mascot

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is not present, a practice similar to a relationship in which those involved remain loyal to their “friends” or “family.” This “relationship” with product mascots is especially powerful for younger children unable to clearly define or understand the complexities of actual social and familial relationships. More than that, when the mascot represents an ultra-processed food product, the emotional pull to consume the item becomes even more powerful when the child has positive feelings toward the company’s “spokesperson” who the child sees on a regular basis in advertisements. It’s important to note that the mascots themselves are not the issue. Many of these creations are interesting and fun to watch. The danger is when these adorable beings promote unhealthy food and offer children opportunities for fun and play. Researchers who studied the use of mascots noted, “[M]edia characters can be used effectively to increase children’s fruit or vegetable intake if they are not concurrently used to promote cookies, candy, and chocolate products” (Healthy Eating Research 2016). Though not as popular, some mascots do promote healthier, less processed foods. A few of these are the Jolly Green Giant and his sidekick Sprout who promote frozen and canned vegetables, the Vlasic Stork who sells pickles, the Quaker Oats man, known as Larry, for oatmeal, and Charlie the Tuna for canned tuna fish. In research to determine the extent brand mascots and popular media characters exert over children, it was found that cartoon media character branding can positively increase children’s fruit or vegetable intake compared with no character branding. However, familiar media character branding is a more powerful influence on children’s food preferences, choices and intake, especially for energy-dense and nutrient-poor foods (e.g. cookies, candy or chocolate) compared with fruits or vegetables. (Kraak and Story 2015, 104)

Though this research focused mainly on media characters, it’s not difficult to imagine that the influence mascots can have on children’s eating habits might be even more powerful due to the pervasiveness of these characters. Yet, brand mascots promoting healthy foods for kids, or adults for that matter, are few and far between. Most brand mascots promote unhealthy, ultra-processed foods rather than natural, healthy foods yet still exert the same powerful influence over children. Add to this the fact that these mascots are oftentimes shown in active situations, a vast majority of which are sports setting, and it’s easy to see how the concept of “Happy Eating” is present in these commercials. When combined with the play theme in advertisements including happy children having great fun, the message can be lethal to those young people who will grow up eating the unhealthy food in the same way they see their favorite mascots doing.

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In short, the use of the play theme, and specifically mascots or prizes, to promote ultra-processed foods strongly influences children’s food choices. With the rise in social media use among children, advertisers have greater access to encourage “play” with their products. As the UConn Center for Food Policy and Health notes on its website, The downward trend in TV viewing among youth has been accompanied by an increase in the time they spend online, especially on social media (e.g., Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube) via mobile devices. Food companies have responded to this trend by pioneering marketing to young people with ads placed on social media; company-generated posts shared virally through followers’ social networks; branded games and ordering apps for smartphones; and paid promotions from bloggers, influencers, and brand ambassadors. Now, food and beverage brands reach children and teens anytime, anywhere with marketing that is often disguised as entertainment. (2023)

With technological advances, it’s possible for companies to personalize these marketing messages from children’s favorite mascots, giving the impression of a personalized experience with the food-pushing mascots. Consider the ramifications of having Tony the Tiger or Poppin’ Fresh interact with an unsuspecting child on a personal level. Not only will this sort of interaction build intense loyalty toward the mascot’s product, it will also provide a sense of fun, understanding, and even connection for children who may be experiencing social difficulties at home or in school. Taken even further, it may appear to the child that the brand mascot is the only one who really cares and understands him or her in a unique and special way, all the while believing that by eating the food promoted by this “friend” this child will experience a special closeness to this mascot, resulting in the potential to create a lifelong food addiction beginning far younger than ever before. The use of food as a means of relaxation in advertisements will be outlined in the next chapter.

Chapter 4

Breathe Deeply and Eat

A woman and a man sit near each other in canvas beach chairs reading books on pristine sand with a palm tree and rock formations in the background in a 2022 commercial. In the far distance, two people playing in the sand can be seen. The woman says to the man, “This is nice. It’s nice to unplug” (Snickers Ice Cream TV Spot 2022). A noise from a plane engine is heard. The camera cuts to a plan flying in the beautiful blue sky with a banner that reads, “Hi Julia, I hope this email finds you well” just before the camera cuts to the woman who closes her eyes and takes a deep breath (Snickers Ice Cream TV Spot 2022). The man quietly says to her, “Just ignore it” as he continues to read his book (Snickers Ice Cream TV Spot 2022). After that, another plane is shown with a banner saying, “Wanted to circle back on a few things” positioned above the words “Can’t Chill? Maybe you just need a Snickers Ice Cream” while an announcer reads the words and a close-up is shown of the ice cream (Snickers Ice Cream TV Spot 2022). In a similar 2022 commercial, a businesswoman is shown in a modern office carrying a large leather briefcase over her shoulder. She is holding a Dove Chocolate Bar in one hand. As she lifts a portion of the bar to her mouth, a female announcer says, “Wherever you go, take Dove Large Promises with you” as a close-up of the woman taking deep breath and a euphoric bite with her eyes closed is shown (Dove Large Promises 2022). After biting into the chocolate, the woman is seen seated at the desk with her feet up on it looking relaxed and happy. The announcer continues, “With dark chocolate peanut butter or milk chocolate caramel, now three times bigger” (Dove Large Promises 2022). The ad ends with a final shot of both packages and the words below “Try Dove Promises 3 times bigger” underneath (Dove Large Promises 2022). Though there is no concrete evidence, it’s not difficult 51

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to assume that one of the “Promises” from Dove Large Promises is that of relaxation. A 1970s era print ad shows an African American family seated at a booth in a McDonald’s restaurant. There are two boys, the younger of which is seated by the father and turned around smiling at the African American man in the next booth who is holding a large drink cup with the McDonald’s logo on it in one hand and a cheeseburger in the other. The older son, who is seated next to the mother, is also holding a burger. The text in the ad says, Do your dinnertim’ at McDonald’s. When you’re looking for a different place to have dinner, check out McDonald’s. You don’t have to get dressed up, there’s no tipping and the kids love it. You can relax and get down with good food that won’t keep you waitin’. Dinnertimin’ or anytimin’, going out is easy at Mc Donald’s. We do it all for you. (Cruz 2015)

A 1966 print ad with the headline “Relax on Swanson night” shows a small black-and-white photo of a family eating dinner with the caption “Can I just taste the pudding first?” and a larger color photo of a Swiss Steak Dinner with mashed potatoes, mixed vegetables, and vanilla pudding (Relax on Swanson Night 2023). In addition to smaller text that describes the meal’s contents, larger words underneath the headline read, “Give all hands a wholesome meal (like this flavorful Swiss Steak) and have more time for family fun!” (Relax on Swanson Night 2023). In the bottom-right corner in the same font as the headline appear the words “Trust Swanson” (Relax on Swanson Night 2023). Though there are over five decades separating some of these four advertisements, the theme is the same—buy this food to relax. Whether it’s ice cream, chocolate, fast food, or a TV dinner, the message is consistent—eating ultra-processed foods can help you to relax. Though the earlier ads offer relaxation through not having to prepare meals, the more current ones offer it in conjunction with deep breathing as a pseudo form of meditation or association with yoga. Ironically, the initial sugar high from eating these unhealthy foods provides a burst of energy, which ultimately will result in feelings of tiredness, though not immediately (Food Addiction Institute 2022). On an emotional level, the idea of using ultra-processed foods to relax can create deep attachment to unhealthy foods as the sole means of relieving emotional discomfort and seeking emotional change to feel serene in today’s busy world, both of which are evidence of food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11). Rather than taking time to meditate, do yoga, exercise, or practice other healthy ways of relaxing, viewers of these ads are led to believe that simply eating ice cream, chocolate, fast food, or TV dinners will result in relaxation. In the Snicker’s Ice Cream advertisement, viewers are urged to use the product instead of relaxing as they are shown

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that they won’t be able to “chill” in the same way the woman in the commercial seems unable to “unplug” even on a beautiful beach in what appears to be a utopian setting. In the Dove chocolate bar commercial, consumers are urged to use the product to relax while at work. When first shown, the woman appears uptight as she stands in front of the desk. After one bite on screen, she is clearly relaxed as evidenced by her feet on the desk and the expression on her face. Though her euphoric bite is accompanied by a deep breath, viewers are still led to the same conclusion as in the Snicker’s Ice Cream commercial—in order to relax, consumers must eat this product. Even though the deep breath before eating the chocolate resembles those taken during meditation or yoga, it is the chocolate that is the promised means of relaxation. In both scenarios, an unhealthy attachment to food as, perhaps, one of the few ways women can relax in today’s busy world, is created as is the use of an ultra-processed food to change emotional states, both of which are evidence of food addiction behavior (Danowski 2019, 11). Equally as concerning, the promise of relaxation without effort while enjoying a tasty snack is promised, thus creating an unhealthy habitual way to achieve a serene state of being, something quite attractive as well as addictive to many. Without reference to the consequences of eating ultra-processed foods to relax mentioned in any of the commercials, these are all true “Happy Eating” portrayals leading viewers to believe healthy relaxation begins with unhealthy food. “YOU DESERVE A BREAK TODAY” One of the most well-known relaxation-themed advertising campaigns was launched in 1971 for McDonald’s (Reinhard 2019). The “You Deserve a Break Today” campaign was based on research conducted by the Needham, Harper, and Steers agency in Chicago showing that consumers in those days needed an escape from the humdrum and sameness of their lives. Moms needed an escape from meal planning, dads needed relief from the high price of eating out, kids needed a respite from broccoli and table manners, and on and on. Folks needed a getaway from their daily routines. (Reinhard 2019)

In one of the first commercials from 1971 using this slogan, a group of allmale McDonald’s workers are shown cleaning the restaurant and singing, “Grab a bucket and mop. Scrub the bottom and top” (Retropond 2022). The song continues as the workers finish up and unlock the door to stand in front of McDonald’s where they sing, “You deserve a break today so get away to McDonald’s. McDonald’s. McDonald’s” (Retropond 2022). In another

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commercial from that time period which aired in 1972, children and several adults are shown in a montage laughing and eating McDonald’s food while an off-camera male voice sings, “You deserve a break today so get up and get away to McDonald’s” (Retropond 2022). McDonald’s would continue to use the “You Deserve a Break” tagline throughout the 1980s and 1990s until 43 years later in 2014 when the slogan was abandoned. During the 1990s, the slogan was “tweaked” to “Have you had your break today?” (Hume 2017). While it was active, the “You Deserve a Break Today” tagline was named the top advertising jingle of the twentieth century by Ad Age and noted by many advertising executives as one of the most memorable slogans ever created. It is a well-known fact in the advertising industry that jingles are a powerful sales tool with many experts outlining the benefits. Some of these benefits include brand recognition, word-ofmouth marketing, memorability, brand recall, increased attention, and the ability to differentiate from competitors (Score A Score 2023). Like the use of mascots, using jingles helps companies to “stand out among competitors” and “present the brand personality as likable, interesting, and relatable” (Score A Score 2023). The power of jingles combined with the fulfillment of a need can create not only a massive increase in sales but a deep emotional loyalty to certain products. This is evidenced by McDonald’s “You Deserve a Break Today” jingle which was released at a time when women began entering the labor force en masse. According to a Bureau of Labor Statics report, A major factor that contributed to the growth of the U.S. labor force in the second half of the twentieth century was the remarkable increase in the labor force participation rate of women. During this time, the U.S. economy experienced economic growth that increased the demand for labor. Baby boomers (those born between 1946 and 1964) began entering the labor force in large numbers in the early 1960s as they reached working age. Coupled with the rapidly increasing labor force participation rate of women, this resulted in a large influx of women into the labor market. (Toosi and Morisi 2017)

This increase resulted in large numbers of women no longer having time to prepare meals as they had in the past due to a drastic increase in daily responsibilities, which now included work outside of the home. The release of the 1971 “You Deserve a Break Today” slogan, along with the promise of one less meal to cook, appealed greatly to women everywhere, making this a combination of the right jingle at a perfect time in American history while at the same time encouraging food addiction behaviors, most notably the use of food to relieve a stressed emotional state while at the same time creating a deep attachment to food that allows the relaxation to happen (Danowski 2019, 11). While there is certainly nothing wrong with taking a break, when the idea

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is paired with ultra-processed foods in an advertisement promoting family unity and fun, there is a danger to not only public health but also to attitudes about unhealthy food. The “You Deserve a Break Today” jingle and subsequent commercials portray a fast-food restaurant, specifically McDonald’s, as a fun place to be, a space to eat dinner in a family-type setting. In reality, the food at McDonald’s is dangerous to even those without food addictions (Fast Food Menu Price 2015). For those addicted to food, eating at McDonald’s will, the majority of the time, result in triggering addictive behavior and bingeing on unhealthy food due to the sugar and flour in the products (Food Addiction Institute 2022). On an emotional level, advertisements promising understanding of and emotional change from the stress experienced by many create a deep emotional attachment to that company along with the food they serve, which is an indicator of food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11).

DOVE ICE CREAM SHADE A 2022 commercial for Dove Ice Cream takes the inclusion of ice cream when relaxing to a higher level. The six-second commercial opens with the sound of waves as a woman sits on a beach. Her head is relaxing against the back of her beach lounge chair. She has sunglasses and a rose-colored bathing suit on. She has a slight smile on her face. As the commercial continues, she pulls her right arm into the scene to reveal a chocolate-covered Dove Ice Cream Bar, which she takes a big bite out of. After she bites into the ice cream, she smiles, and the camera pulls out to reveal a pink-and white-striped umbrella under which she holds the Dove Ice Cream Bar while she sits to the right of the shaded area in the sun. She sighs deeply, clearly relaxed as the camera reverses the shot to show the back of the woman still holding the ice cream under the umbrella with waves coming in and a boat in the left corner of the screen. Underneath the umbrella above the ice cream the words “Dove Ice Cream. Choose Pleasure” are shown (DOVE Chocolate 2022). Though the “Choose Pleasure” may be construed as having sexual undertones, the importance placed on the ice cream mimics the critical role food plays in food addiction. For food addicts, getting and eating food is the core of their existence, the entire reason for their being (Food Addiction Institute 2022). In this commercial, it appears as if the woman has brought along the umbrella simply to shade her ice cream since there is plenty of room for her to be underneath it if she chose to. The advertisement also gives viewers the message that ice cream is deeply important when relaxing, even more important, perhaps than the person doing the relaxing thus portraying a deep emotional attachment to an ultra-processed food in a “Happy Eating” manner, which is evidence of food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11).

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“HE’LL GIVE YOU A REST” The idea of using relaxation to sell ultra-processed foods has been around for many years, especially in the fast-food industry. A 1968, Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC) ad released at Christmas time is a good example of using food to relax. In the print ad, the company’s spokesperson, Colonel Sanders is shown holding a bucket of fried chicken in the middle of the page wearing a Santa’s hat. There are two women, one on each side of him. The woman on his left is wearing a yellow coat and black hat. She is holding a stack of presents and has her head resting on the colonel’s shoulder while smiling at him. The woman on the right is wearing a green coat and also holding a stack of presents. She, too, is looking adoringly at Colonel Sanders. The text above the trio on the left of the page reads, “He’ll give you a rest during the rush” (Neat Designs 2023). A smaller paragraph to the right of the headline opens with the question, “Who has time to fix dinner during the Christmas rush?” and continues with “Colonel Sanders. That’s who. He fixes dinner seven days a week” (Neat Designs 2023). The text goes on to discuss “Finger lickin’ good” chicken, with “all the trimmings” at 1900 locations “all over the nation” before saying that if “you’re too busy to fix dinner during the holidays” then the “man for all seasons will help” (Neat Designs 2023). Similarly, in an ad for the restaurant the previous year, consumers are reminded that KFC fixes “Sunday dinner on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday so you don’t have to” (Neat Designs 2023). Another ad from 1968, which features a photo of Colonel Sanders smiling and holding a tray filled with Kentucky Fried Chicken, has the headline, “Wife-savers” (Neat Designs 2023). A paragraph underneath the headline to the right of the page reads, Colonel Sanders is a woman’s best friend. The Colonel’s the man who fixes Sunday dinner seven days a week. For weary wives. For working women. All you do is pick it up. Boxes, buckets, and barrels full of finger lickin’ good chicken and all the trimmings. It’s ready to go in minutes at 1700 locations. Colonel Sanders’ Kentucky Fried Chicken . . . mother’s little helper. It’s finger lickin’ good. (Neat Designs 2023)

An ad from the previous year shows Colonel Sanders in the front holding a bucket of chicken while a family has a picnic in the background. There is a large box of Kentucky Fried Chicken on the picnic blanket. The main headline of the print advertisement reads, “Let the Colonel pack your picnic” (Neat Designs 2023). When Colonel Sanders died in 1980, he was not replaced in ads for KFC until 2015 when the company resurrected the character for its seventy-fifth-anniversary celebration to mixed reviews but increased sales.

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Today, the majority of ads for the company highlight food offerings without reference to the colonel. Though it may seem as if ads published during the late 1960s may have no bearing on today’s eating habits, consider the permanence of familial habits. Women who went to work in the late 1960s were reminded repeatedly to purchase Kentucky Fried Chicken as means of relaxing after a long day of work. Those who did not work, were still reminded to turn to the colonel for help with relaxing from the drudgery of cooking dinner every night, something food manufacturers regularly advertised to women about this being their responsibly (Parkin 2007). These women raised children who not only witnessed this but also developed the habit of using fast food as a means of relaxation as did their children and so on. While current advertising for KFC may not remind consumers to let Colonel Sanders give them a break, these same consumers have been trained by their parents and grandparents to use fast food as a means of relaxation, thus contributing to unhealthy eating habits. It’s also important to note as the pace of life continues to accelerate in modern times, the need for relaxation grows accordingly, meaning an increase in fast-food consumption. Wanting a break or relaxation is not wrong. When it’s tied to eating unhealthy fast food, however, it is dangerous to consumers’ health and creates deep emotional attachment to ultra-processed foods while also using food to relieve emotional discomfort, both of which are food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11).

DOVE ICE CREAM COOL-DOWN KIT A recent marketing campaign for DOVE Ice Cream shows exactly how imbedded the concept of relaxation is with eating ultra-processed foods. Coinciding with International Self-Care Day on July 24, 2022, DOVE Ice Cream worked with Feeling Fab Box to create the DOVE Ice Cream CoolDown Kit, each of which included four self-care tools, a spa headband, mini facial ice globes, a Gua Sha stone, and an ice cooling handheld stainless steel roller as well as a box of DOVEBAR Vanilla Ice Cream with Milk Chocolate. A limited number of these kits were offered on a first-come basis. One journalist reporting about the kits wrote, While this item is a special promotion, it sets an example for anyone. Even if a person does not get one of the special boxes, the self-care moment can be created at home. Why not eat a DOVE Ice Cream bar while enjoying that foot soak? (Struble 2022)

Consider the emotional and physical dangers of associating the eating of ice cream with self-care. Self-care by definition is caring for the self to

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increase physical and emotional health. Ultra-processed foods are, also by definition, the unhealthiest, most dangerous foods to eat with little to no nutritional or physical benefits for the body. An advertising campaign which joins the two is based on a pseudo and false connection. In short, eating DOVE Ice Cream bars does not provide the benefits usually associated with self-care such as improving physical health, reducing stress and anxiety, and boosting self-esteem. Directly the opposite, food addicts as well as many normal eaters experience a reduction in physical health, an increase in stress and anxiety, and a lowering of self-esteem when eating foods high in sugar and fat as in the case of ice cream (Food Addiction Institute 2022) while at the same time creating a deep emotional attachment to food and using this food to seek emotional change, both of which are food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11). In other words, despite the attractive relaxing images on screen and in magazines, eating ultra-processed foods does not help to provide true relaxation but instead a false sense of comfort, oftentimes referred to as “comfort food.”

COMFORT FOOD Though it’s not clear when the term “comfort food” was first used, some point to its earliest usage in 1965 (Fehling 2015). Though individual “comfort food” products differ, the common thread is the association with nostalgia—“memories of a parent at the stove, family gatherings around the table, even a dish you hated as a kid but inexplicably long for once you’re old enough to have a kitchen of your own” or when “feeling low, homesick, or just plain sick . . . curling up on the couch with a blanket and a hot bowl of something you grew up eating” (Fehling 2015). As with the relaxing ultra-processed food commercials, the emotional ties and false promises of connecting with happy childhood memories provide a pseudo connection which lasts only while the food is eaten. After that, the consequences of eating ultra-processed foods are anything but comforting or relaxing. For food addicts, these consequences include overwhelming physical and emotional cravings, gastric distress, headaches, joint pain, and deep shame (Danowski and Lazaro 2000). Some of these consequences may also be experienced by normal eaters, though it’s possible the consequences may be more of the long-term variety—obesity, diabetes, high cholesterol, and heart disease. Either way, the consequences of eating unhealthy food as self-care is the definition of “Happy Eating” and a deep emotional trigger for food addicts who will continue to seek more and more food until they find recovery (Food Addiction Institute 2022).

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“HELP YOURSELF” One of the more recent ultra-processed food companies to capitalize on the idea of “comfort food” in the aftermath of the coronavirus pandemic is the Kraft Mac & Cheese “Help Yourself” campaign. Launched in 2021 and rebranded in 2022, the campaign focuses on self-care, comfort, and “finding moments of joy amid persistent challenges” (Kelly 2023). At the end of 2022, a series of six- and fifteen-second ads were released using a cheese-covered noodle as a smile in an effort to promote positivity where “‘struggles’ turn into ‘snuggles,’ dress pants become sweatpants and ‘rush hour’ morphs into ‘happy hour,’ to name a few” (Kelly 2023). In one of these animated fifteensecond commercials, a greenish balloon is shown running out of air as it moves across the screen where a smile-shaped cheese noodle is positioned in the middle. When the balloon runs out of air, it flops down on the ground, breathing heavy and crawling toward the noodle. Once it gets there, it jumps into the noodle and comes out the other side transformed into a long bright orange balloon which turns into a dog that barks, wags its tail, and runs off screen. The last frame is the Kraft Mac & Cheese logo with the cheese dripping off the smiling noodle above the words “help yourself” (Kelly 2023). A brand manager for Kraft Mac & Cheese describes the commercials by saying, “In the new spots, we asked ourselves, ‘What does it really mean to help yourself?’ And that’s where we got this universal truth: No matter who you are, how old you are, or whatever you have going on in your life, Kraft Mac & Cheese invites you to put yourself first by choosing what makes you feel good inside and out” (Kelly 2023) while a marketing expert notes that this campaign is part of an effort to shift attitudes away from the idea that seeking comfort is lazy and instead position comfort food as positive (Kelly 2023). The idea behind the campaign is to tell a story of transformation much in the same way the product is attempting to re-imagine the idea of “comfort food.” In a six-second animated commercial used in this campaign, the word “overworked” is shown in the upper left-hand corner. The font is lower case, soft edges with smiles in the two “o’s” while the “k” and the “e” are slanted slightly down. When the commercial opens, there is the sound of yawning. As the yawn finished, the word “overworked” is sucked into the cheese-covered smiling noodle. As a drop of cheese drips off the left side of the noodle, the “overworked” comes out the right side with the words “werkin’ it” which pulsate to two beats of music and then fade into the Kraft Mac & Cheese logo with the words “help yourself” in the last shot (Kelly 2023). On the surface, the ads in this campaign are designed to show the exact moment when discomfort is transformed into comfort using as few words as possible to attract adults who are in need of comfort by playing on the nostalgic quality of the 1980s and 1990s style used on MTV and Nickelodeon.

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Underlying this is the fact that the food promoted is an ultra-processed food high in calories, fat, and sodium which is using a manipulative marketing technique to expand the number of consumers who eat this food. The identification with 1980s and 1990s television networks is no accident. It is this group of consumers in their thirties, forties, and early fifties who may have chosen to abandon childhood eating habits in favor of healthier choices during a period when many become more conscious of the effects eating certain foods has on their long-term health. By pairing self-care with an unhealthy food, Kraft is attempting to give these “lost” consumers permission to eat unhealthy snacks while reminding them of the importance its product played in their childhoods. It’s also important to note that some of those in their thirties, forties, and early fifties have older children and may not rely on Kraft Mac & Cheese as much as they did previously when their children were younger, thus representing a “lost” consumers. By using the seemingly positive act of self-care and/ or helping yourself, the company is attempting to mitigate possible financial losses while associating an unhealthy food with the healthy practice of selfcare. For those who are addicted to food, the idea of self-care by eating an addictive food contributes to the denial present in so many who are food addicts (Werdell 2023) and creates a deep emotional attachment to the product which is an indicator of food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11). It also speaks to the nostalgia many search for in addictive foods as well as the powerful emotional and physical drive to make themselves feel better. For those who are not addicted to food, the search for nostalgia and self-care by eating ultra-processed foods is a dangerous and unhealthy path that truly leads nowhere. Those looking for the warm feelings associated with childhood, for the true benefits of self-care, and the peace of mind that comes with true relaxation will be sorely disappointed after eating Kraft Mac & Cheese, which may leave them with heartburn, obesity, high blood pressure, and many other health dangers associated with ultra-processed foods (Danowski and Lazaro 2000). In addition to this, if the target audience of these advertisements is affected by these commercials and begins to bring Kraft Mac & Cheese into their homes again, the possibility exists that they will pass this down to not only their children but their grandchildren as well, creating multigenerational unhealthy eating practices and, even more alarmingly, teaching their children to use food as a means of relieving emotional discomfort and seeking emotional change, both of which are indicators of food addiction behavior (Danowski 2019, 11).

COVID COMFORT FOOD The COVID-19 pandemic presented advertisers with a unique marketing opportunity to encourage relaxation and provide comfort with their products.

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In several of the commercials aired during this time, the “comfort” provided by food advertisers was in the form of connection and safety. For example, an Oscar Mayer “Front Yard Cookout” commercial aired during this time opened with empty streets in neighborhoods then to a man wheeling a grill to his front yard. This led to other neighbors bringing grills and iced tea while waving at each other to have cookouts, each in their own yard, while an announcer says, We may not be able to gather together but we can grill together. Oscar Mayer invites you to take your backyard cookouts to the front. On May 2 join us for the Oscar Mayer Front Yard Cookout. Enjoy sharing a meal together but safely apart while we share a million meals with Share America and every time you use the hashtag #FrontYardCookout Oscar Mayer will donate an additional meal up to a million more. Let’s head out front and give back. (Oscar Mayer 2020)

Similarly, a Post Cereal advertisement during this time began with the following words over images of cereal bowls, “A bowl of cereal. A bowl of something familiar. A bowl of ‘We’re going to be OK.’ At Post, we know what a full bowl can mean” (Post Cereal 2020). Following this were shots of the factory producing cereal with overlaid text stating, “That’s why we’re keeping the lines running. Our employees are now provided with masks while at work. The warehouse is delivering the breakfast you love on the family table” (Post Cereal 2020). Next shots of smiling workers are shown with text saying, “None of us knows what the day will bring. But together, we can give it a good start” (Post Cereal 2020). Then, the Post and Malt O Meal logos are shown with the wording, “Feeding families for over 100 years” (Post Cereal 2020). While not the sort of relaxation-themed advertisements currently produced, both commercials and others like them aired during the pandemic were designed to promote not only products but comfort, relaxation, and safety. The idea of knowing that Oscar Mayer would donate a million meals to those in need and that Post Cereal employees were hard at work making sure there was enough cereal for everyone served as a means of relaxation from a horrific event which was out of anyone’s control while also providing a reason (charitable giving) for those addicted to food to eat large amounts of these foods and thus increasing the denial so powerful in the disease (Werdell 2023). The tagline, “Feeding families for over 100 years,” instills in consumers a certain relaxation about the company being able to provide food during a national crisis considering its previous track record. In line with that, the idea of a national cookout, being able to see neighbors again, and providing food for those in need also provides a relaxed, safe setting for those quarantined.

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For some, these national cookouts may have been the first time they were able to enjoy time with their neighbors even from a distance. The danger with these and other ads of this type aired during the pandemic is the promise of ultra-processed foods being used to relax, feel safe, and provide comfort, all of which result in using food to seek emotional change, a food addiction characteristic (Danowski 2019, 11). During this time, most Americans felt extreme anxiety and stressed, especially in the beginning of the pandemic when little was known about transmission of the disease while millions across the world died every day. Fear was rampant. Government mismanagement added to stress and anxiety as did the realization of the need for an international lockdown. Many found solace in overeating. And while ultra-processed food advertisers certainly aren’t solely to blame for the increase in unhealthy food consumption, the ads aired by some companies during this time can be seen as a contributing factor (Martino 2021). For those addicted to food, the time of quarantine served as an isolating experience allowing them to more freely eat whatever they wanted resulting in a rapid downward spiral deeper into addiction.

QUARANTINE 15 Even for normal eaters, overeating “comfort food” was an issue during quarantine. During this time, social media sites were filled with “stress baking” videos, television airwaves carried cooking shows into homes everywhere while news of food shortages filled news broadcasts. Bored and locked in their homes, those quarantined sought comfort in the food they ate as well as solace in meal preparation, which soon turned into weight gain. Within weeks, the “Freshman 15,” which references the average weight gain of college students in their first year, morphed into the “Quarantine 15,” used to describe weight gain during the COVID-19 pandemic. Tweets, Facebook groups, and memes all addressed this phenomenon in large numbers to many, some of whom participated in “stress baking” contests designed to determine the best “comfort food” recipes. John Morton, MD, MPH, MHA, medical director of bariatric surgery at Yale New Haven Health System, reported that some of his patients gained upward of 30 pounds during quarantine. “Not only are there organic body changes, but we turn to food as a way to cope with stress.” There are also metabolic changes associated with the “fight-orflight syndrome,” says Dr. Morton. “When you’re stressed, your body will sense it, and it will not give up any calories when it thinks it needs [them] for energy for running away or combat,” he says. (Katella 2021)

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Ultra-processed food manufacturers increased their advertising during this campaign so much so that ad revenue during the first quarter of 2022 on social media platforms increased by 49 percent (Alphabet 2020). The term “COVID-Washing” was coined to identify marketing techniques using COVID-19-related themes such as social distancing, quarantining, contactless pickup, and masking. “COVID-Washing” became an international phenomenon. Researchers from Australia found that almost 80 percent of all unhealthy food and alcohol companies posted COVID-related content (Martino 2021), while other studies documented “COVID-Washing” techniques in Argentina, Guatemala, Bolivia, Peru, and Brazil (Tsai, et al. 2022). The majority of these advertisements studied were for unhealthy foods. In a U.S. study of 874 COVID-related tweets from 52 food and beverage brands, researchers concluded that “concerning marketing tactics” were used by “major food and beverage companies” to “promote unhealthy foods and sugary beverages during the COVID-19 pandemic” (Tsai, et al. 2022). They note that given that nutrition-related diseases such as obesity and diabetes are risk factors for COVID-19 morbidity and mortality, food and beverage companies should reduce the promotion of unhealthy products to help decrease the prevalence of health conditions that place people at higher risk for severe illness and death due to COVID-19. (Tsai, et al. 2022)

As the country began to open up once again and “COVID Fatigue” set in, companies moved away from COVID-themed advertisements nearly abandoning them all together in favor of more positive messages (Jordan 2021). Many of the “Digital First” advertising techniques adopted during quarantine, however, will most likely remain permanent as Americans grew accustomed to ordering online and contact-less pickup (Jordan 2021). The result being that unhealthy food manufacturers will continue to promote their foods online in a more personal way targeting those who visit their websites and social media platforms. Though it’s difficult to determine if this more personalized digital advertising is the cause, most experts note an increase in food spending greater than prior to quarantine. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), December 2022 expenditures at “eating-out establishments increased by 7.5 percent compared to November 2022 and were 13.5 percent higher than December 2021. Such food expenditures remained higher than pre-pandemic levels after their steep decline in March 2020 when the Coronavirus (COVID-19) pandemic began” (2023). Though the USDA notes that inflation plays a role in this, adjusted food sales figures “were 8.8 percent higher in December 2022 compared with December 2019,” reflecting a significant increase in spending (2023). It’s possible that some of this increased spending is the result of habits acquired during the pandemic as well as the development of a deep emotional attachment to the foods many

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believe “got them through” the quarantine period without any consideration of the consequences of eating these ultra-processed foods. It’s worth noting that deep emotional attachment to food and the use of food to relieve emotional discomfort are both signs of food addiction behavior, as are images of eating alone, characteristics included in most of the COVID-19 advertisements discussed in this section, the result of which is increased portrayals of advertisements including food addiction behaviors during a national tragedy (Danowski 2019, 11).

“TIME TO RELAX” A recent Facebook ad for Nordic Waffles exemplifies the personal nature of post-pandemic digital advertising. In the center of the ad is a photo of a folded over waffles filled with eggs, sausages, and melted cheese, which is dripping over the edge. Against a turquoise background, smaller font in white says, “Time to relax” (Nordic Waffles 2021). Underneath that, in larger letters are the words “Enjoy a waffle” (Nordic Waffles 2021). Beneath that to the right is the company’s logo and underneath the waffle are the words, “Join the #wafflelution” (Nordic Waffles 2021). The text along with the ad reads, “It is time to relax, and enjoy a Nordic Waffle Find a grocer near you to pick-up your Nordic Waffle All Day Breakfast 2-Pack at https://nordicwaffles​.com​/ locations/” (Nordic Waffles 2021). The ad was posted on a Sunday at 10:00 a.m., a time when many social media followers are thinking about breakfast and may even be planning to do weekly grocery shopping. Though a newer regional company founded in 2016, over 5,000 Facebook users follow and/or like Nordic Waffles social media site. On a larger scale, even an ultra-processed food company known for its young, energetic ads on Facebook occasionally mentions relaxation on their social media pages. A 2022 Facebook ad posted on the Cheez-It page includes a photo of a bed-sized area covered with Cheez-It crackers. On top of the “bed” area in the middle of the photo is a box of Cheez-It crackers. The text above the photo reads, “If this is a #CheezIt dream, don’t wake us,” which is followed by a red heart (Cheez-It 2022). Though the majority of the company’s Facebook page advertisements are filled with images of sports, holidays, and trends related to or using the cracker, this post stands out for associating sleep and relaxation with Cheez-It crackers. The post received 50 comments and 151 likes/loves. The idea of inserting an unhealthy food into not only relaxation time but during sleep is troubling on many levels, the first of which is that the function of sleep is to provide healthy rejuvenation. “Dreaming” of Cheez-It crackers may not only interfere with that, but it can also lead to encouragement of Night Eating Syndrome, which is associated

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with food addiction and “may contribute to a desire to eat late in the evening and/or when awakening at night” (Nolan 2016, 89). Those who are addicted to food may consider the idea of “dreaming” about Cheez-Its as permission to binge on them when they wake up at night or delude themselves into believing that eating them will help with sleep. They may also eat the snack as a way to relieve emotional discomfort or seek emotional change while developing a deep attachment to the product, all of which are alluded to in this advertisement and result in portrayals of food addiction behavior in an ultra-processed food ad (Danowski 2011, 19). For those not addicted to food but with obesity and overweight, eating at night may have health consequences as well. A 2022 study found that eating at certain times of day significantly impacts energy expenditure, appetite, and molecular pathways in adipose tissue (Vujović 2022). The researchers studied the effects of late-night eating versus early eating in sixteen patients. They concluded that late-night eating increases “waketime hunger,” “decreases waketime energy,” “alters adipose tissue gene expression favoring increased lipid storage,” and “may increase obesity risk in humans” (Vujović 2022). They noted that “eating four hours later makes a significant difference for our hunger levels, the way we burn calories after we eat, and the way we store fat” (Vujović 2022), meaning a social media advertisement encouraging nighttime eating or “dreaming” about unhealthy food at the very least is encouraging dangerous eating habits and possibly contributing to obesity in its consumers.

“SAVE SOMETHING FOR YOURSELF” The relaxation theme portrayed in a 2018 commercial for Pepperidge Farm Milano Cookies not only shows images of pseudo tranquility but also encourages greediness with the product. The commercial opens with a shot of an African American woman who appears to be in a bathtub. There are candles lit behind her, a jade green washcloth is rolled up to support her neck, and she is holding a Milano cookie up to her mouth gazing lovingly at it before taking a euphoric bite. Soft music plays as water runs out of the faucet. For a second the woman looks relaxed while eating the cookie until a knock on the door forces her eyes open. The camera pulls back to reveal that the woman is actually sitting on the floor wrapped in a towel while the tub is filled with children’s toys. When a child calls out for her, the woman quickly swallows the bite of cookie she was chewing, lowers her voice and says, “It’s Dad” as the child walks away from the door saying “Mommy?” while the woman goes back to eating her cookie (Pepperidge Farm Milano Cookies 2018). As she settles in, a female announcer says, “You gave them your bathtub. Don’t

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give them your cookies” as the woman continues to eat serenely. The camera cuts to a shot of a package of cookies with a white background with the words “Save something for yourself” as the female announcer reads those words. In the Facebook posting of the commercial, the text reads, “How do you save something for yourself? Share with us using #SaveSomething4U on Twitter and Instagram” (Pepperidge Farm Milano Cookies 2018). The post received 8,300 views and 61 comments. In the comments, many people tagged other people to make them aware of the commercial. A few complained that the cookies were getting smaller or asked about availability in their area. One person posted, “I have missed you guys in my page. I need commercials for cookies in my life,” another reminisced by posting, “Remember when you used to be able to have a spare moment down for yourself? Pepperidge farms remembers,” while others called it “funny,” “awesome,” and “best commercial ever” (Pepperidge Farm Milano Cookies 2018). What most people didn’t notice are the dangerous addictive behaviors present in this commercial. In addition to encouraging consumers to use an unhealthy food as “self-care” to “relax,” the practice of putting this food before family (evidence of neglecting daily responsibilities due to eating), eating alone, having a deep emotional attachment to food, and hoarding food are characteristics of food addiction behavior (Danowski 2019, 11) which results in a “Happy Eating” portrayal. The nonprofit Food Addiction Institute includes the concept of hoarding in its definition of food addiction which they define as a persistent preoccupation with what and when to eat, and how to acquire food using behaviors such as hoarding, hiding, or eating in secret and being unable to stop overeating (2022). Similarly, the INFACT School, a training program for food addiction counselors, lists “Failure to fulfill significant role obligations– leaving an infant or young child at home alone to go out and seek food; having to quit a job due to eating all day” in its list of food addiction indicators (2023). All of these behaviors are present in this commercial for an ultra-processed food. Not only that, consider the implications of encouraging parents to ignore their children in favor of eating cookies. Though this may seem lighthearted and funny, the deeper message about the importance of food in this commercial can be seen as promoting addictive behavior (Danowski 2019, 11).

IMAGES OF RELAXATION While some ultra-processed food advertisements don’t contain overt messages about relaxation such as those previously described, another tactic is to include images of relaxation in an effort to remind consumers how well their product fits into a relaxing event. An Arnold Bread commercial from 2022 is an example of this. The commercial opens with a close-up of three

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sandwiches, a jar of pickles, and a loaf of Arnold Oatnut Small Slices bread on a red-and-white checked picnic blanket. A male’s voice says, “Arnold Small Slice. I wonder if this has the same quality as the original wholegrains bread” (Arnold Bread 2022). Before he finishes, the camera pulls out to reveal a family of three: mother father and child seated on the blanket in a beautiful park with green trees and grass. On the picnic blanket, there is a basket with two loaves of bread in it, another loaf of bread, sandwiches, and lemonade. The male child is eating a sandwich as actor John Stamos slides into the shot dressed in a suit without a tie and in a seated position. The actor says, “Great question, Dad. And it does. It has all the same nutritious deliciousness as the original slice, only a little bit smaller just like Timmy here” as he pats the child’s head (Arnold Bread 2022). The last shot is of two loaves of bread positioned to the right of the screen with the Arnold logo to the left and the words “From seed to small slice” underneath and above a sandwich. Stamos is in the background sitting on the green grass in the park setting. The child says, “My name is Lucas,” to which Stamos replies, “It sure is, Bobby” (Arnold Bread 2022). Though the concept of relaxation is not outwardly mentioned, the idyllic park setting with the family dressed in casual clothing is clearly a relaxing event to which the addition of sandwiches made on small slices Arnold Bread adds. The addition of lush green bushes and a sturdy old green tree in the background provide an image of relaxation without advertising the bread itself as a means of relaxing. In other words, the relaxing scene implies an association between the product and the act of relaxing. Add to this, the presence of a family and a visit from a famous actor, and the underlying message is clear; eating Arnold bread provides relaxation, companionship, and nutrition. For those addicted to food, the advertisement of an ultra-processed food as “nutritious” and “small” can add to the denial about the consequences of eating this product, thus increasing consumption (Werdell 2023). According to the Food Addiction Institute, when a food addict eats an addictive substance such as sugar, flour, or grain, the “reward circuit” part of the brain is flooded with the feel-good chemical dopamine causing the body to feel pleasure and thus repeat the behavior in which the dopamine is overstimulated, causing a “high” similar to that experienced by alcoholics and drug addicts which results in repeated use of the addictive substance (2022). Consider the fact that the brain’s “reward circuit” release of dopamine is the same chemical felt when spending time with loved ones as it relates to the Arnold bread commercial. In the commercial, the family is shown eating together and each member appears to be happy. A food addict with a physical addiction to the flour, sugar, and grain in the bread will feel the same pleasurable feelings from eating this product as they will from spending time with loved ones, thus, perhaps, instilling the idea in consumers that eating Arnold

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bread will result in family love and contact with a famous actor while experiencing a relaxing time. It’s important to note that physical and emotional cravings experienced by food addicts make it nearly impossible to achieve a relaxed state of being (Food Addiction Institute 2022). The combination of physical urges driven by brain chemistry along with the shame and powerlessness of being unable to resist eating unhealthy foods despite best efforts results in an unsuccessful quest for peace of mind not possible without recovery (Danowski and Lazaro 2000). Additionally, the labeling of a product as being “small slices” can also contribute to a food addict’s desperate desire to control their cravings, lose weight, and become “small” rather than the extreme suffering they currently experience. In addition to this, food addicts who eat large amounts of addictive substances run the risk of decreasing production of pleasure brain chemicals. As noted by the INFACT School, Highly palatable foods increase the amount of dopamine in the brain, which is highly rewarding and pleasurable and perpetuates the cycle. .  .  . Further, as the behavior increases, the number of dopamine receptors in the brain may decrease, leading to more frequent seeking out highly rewarding foods. (2023)

It’s important to note that the decrease in dopamine receptors is not limited to only bread but to many, if not all, ultra-processed foods, making the advertising of these foods using relaxation and self-care themes all the more dangerous. No matter how much ice cream, chocolate, TV dinners, fast food, hot dogs, cookies, cereal, waffles, crackers, macaroni and cheese, or bread a food addict eats, they will not experience true feelings of relaxation and comfort. Instead, the brain chemistry will drive them to seek out even larger portions of these foods, a state of extreme stress, the exact opposite as the relaxation promised in these advertisements (Danowski and Lazaro 2000). Similarly, feelings of happiness are fleeting, if nonexistent, for those addicted to food. In the next chapter, the concept of association happiness with eating ultra-processed foods will be discussed.

Chapter 5

Be Happy and Eat

A beautiful young blue-eyed, blonde-haired girl of approximately eight years old is pictured hugging a box of Post Raisin Bran cereal with one arm and holding a spoon over a white bowl with a saucer with her other arm. To the left of her head is the Post logo and below the following text, “The only cereal with sugared raisins . . . and it’s Post-marked for Happy Eating!” (Vintage Paper Heaven 2023). Additional text underneath reads, Who wouldn’t be sweet on the sweetest fruit ‘n’ cereal treat this side of heaven? Plump juicy raisins dipped in honey and rolled in sugar, then mixed with crisp delicious bran flakes! Little girls, little boys, big folks and middle-sized all love it-and you will, too! Get some! (Vintage Paper Heaven 2023)

Below this, the words in all capital letters “LOOK FOR THE POST MARK . . . FOR HAPPY EATING!” and to the right of that a small photo of a young boy pointing at the Post logo and a bowl of cereal next to eight other cereals made by General Foods (Vintage Paper Heaven 2023). This 1956 ad would be part of a campaign launched by Post cereal to advertise their products as a “Happy Eating” experience, which would include ads featuring a young boy, a mother, and a couple for Grape Nuts, Raisin Brand Toasties, and variety pack cereals. Similarly, a 1940 ad from rival Kellogg’s for the company’s Rice Krispies Cereal shows a bowl filled with the product and raspberries along the outer rim of a white bowl with blue and gray trim on a saucer. The bowl is on a tray and a woman’s hand with a red painted thumb nail is carrying the tray. Above the photos are the words, “Everybody’s happy . . . every spoonful’s CRISP” along with a drawing of a family eating breakfast (Jiminy Flip It 2023). The mother is standing, and the father and son are ready to eat as they are being 69

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served by the mother. Around the mother are the words, “Snap! Crackle! Pop!” (Jiminy Flip It 2023). Below the cereal photo is a longer paragraph about the “Dinnertime enthusiasm at breakfast” that is possible when the product is served and how the “crispness lasts to the final spoonful” due to the “cheery snap! crackle! pop! when you pour on the milk or crème” (Jiminy Flip It 2023). In the lower-right corner is a sketched image of the mascots “Snap! Crackle! and Pop!” with an offer for “attractive nursery-rhyme wall plaques in gorgeous colors” that can be obtained by seeing “the back of a Rice Krispies package” for details (Jiminy Flip It 2023). “THE MOST IMPORTANT MEAL OF THE DAY” The use of the happiness theme as well as the words “Happy Eating” and “Dinnertime enthusiasm at breakfast” is no accident. Edward Bernays, psychologist Sigmund Freud’s nephew and often called the father of the public relations industry, created a carefully constructed marketing campaign using a “behavioralist” approach that repeated “a stimulus to create a habit” through the use of full-page ads and coupons for his client, The Beechnut Packing Company’s product, bacon (Held 2009). Drawing on his belief that physicians influence what Americans eat, he surveyed physicians to ask whether they would recommend a light breakfast or a hearty breakfast. Physicians overwhelmingly recommended a hearty breakfast, paving the way for Bernays to convince Americans to swap their usual juice, toast, and coffee for the now-ubiquitous, all-American ‘hearty’ breakfast of bacon and eggs. (Held 2009)

Through his ads Bernays, who is also known for promoting cigarettes to women as “Torches of Freedom” to fight male domination, was able to convince Americans in the 1920s to adopt the habit of eating bacon and eggs for breakfast (Brown 2020). Drawing on Bernays’s “most important meal of the day” marketing creation, W. K. Kellogg and C. W. Post, each with rival cereal companies, created, fortified, and advertised various cereal formulations to the public touting the health benefits of each. Post, who created Grape Nuts cereal in 1897, would invest over a million dollars in the early 1900s in advertising focusing on the health benefits of eating cereal for breakfast. A 1944 advertising campaign for the product would promise, “Eat a Good Breakfast—Do a Better Job” (Brown 2020). Radio ads would mention that “Nutrition experts say breakfast is the most important meal of the day,” thus making the “marketing phrase soaked into our lexicon ever since” and making “the cereal industry powerful, giving them a monopoly over breakfast” (Brown 2020). A 1930 ad for Grape Nuts published in Ladies’ Home Journal shows a half-eaten bowl

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of cereal in a blue bowl with cream and sugar in matching containers next to a spoon. The headline above the ad reads, “Taste be happy! There’s a reason” (Grape Nuts Ad 1930). On the left side of the ad, there are several “reasons” outlined, each with accompanying sketches of women and men to match. The reasons are each titled. “An Ace of a Reason” notes the “vital elements” needed to “keep you healthy and vigorous,” while “Another Reason, Madam” points out that when “served with milk or cream” Grape Nuts “makes a light breakfast a safe nourishing one” (Grape Nuts Ad 1930). The third reason, “Oh, What a Nice Reason,” tells consumers that the cereal “makes delicious, different salads and desserts,” and the fourth one, “Ahoy! Here’s a Reason,” says that the product “encourages proper chewing, thus helping teeth to keep sound and beautiful” (Grape Nuts Ad 1930). Several paragraphs below the cereal image note the “goodness of mellow wheat and malted barley,” the “slow baking that oven-browns each plump morsel,” and that “Every day in this country, millions of ‘tastes’ are made happy by Grape Nuts” (Grape Nuts Ad 1930). Several years later in 1952, an advertisement for Wheat Chex and Rice Chex features an image of a smiling man dressed for work while carrying his briefcase alongside of a smiling young boy dressed casually and carrying a baseball bat and glove over his shoulder. Above photos of the two cereal boxes, the headline reads “Why men leave home HAPPY .  .  . BITE SIZE cereals for breakfast” (The Paper Shack 2023). Underneath this is a paragraph about the product that begins with the words, “Yes, ma’am, it takes something that tastes good to get results like this” and then goes on to encourage women to serve the products to their families. There is also a recipe for Seafoam Cookies which uses either cereal. Similarly, the happiness theme was also used to promote Sunshine Krispy Saltines. In the June 1957 issue of Woman’s Day magazine, an ad in the upper-right corner for the product is shown. The headline of the ad reads, “sheer delight . . . shrimp cocktail and New ‘Krispy’ Flavor!” above a sketch of a bowl filled with cocktail sauce with shrimp hanging off surrounded by saltines (Woman’s Day 1957, 15). Underneath this ad, there is an advertisement for Heart’s Delight Nectars promising a “Happy Start” with the product (Woman’s Day 1957, 15). Both advertisements draw on the happiness theme, with the previous one including an image of a father and son smiling while drinking Heart’s Delight. In each of these advertisements, the idea of eating an ultra-processed food to achieve “happiness” is promoted. The idea of using food to seek emotional change is a characteristic of food addiction (Danowski 2019, 11). Similarly, the idea of showing happy people and promising the same good feelings to those who eat the food can serve as a magnet for addicts who are miserable in their addiction to food as well as a method of denial of the consequences of bingeing on this food (Werdell 2023). As noted previously, the ingredients in these

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foods will cause a food addict to physically crave more, which will result in a binge and feelings of shame (Food Addiction Institute 2022), which are, once again, the exact opposite of the happy feelings advertised. As previously noted, food advertisements themselves have been found to trigger overconsumption of food (Arrona-Cardoza, et al. 2023), which, when combined with addictive portrayals, can be especially dangerous for food addicts and can also contribute to obesity and overweight in those who are considered normal eaters. “SMILE FOR ME” Another way food manufacturers use the happiness theme in advertisements is by portraying happy actors in their commercials or, in the case of Lay’s potato chips, asking consumers to smile. A 2018 commercial for the product begins with a group of men and women at a barbeque on the deck of an attractive house. Upbeat music plays with the lyrics, “Smile for me. Everything is better when you smile” (Lay’s TV Spot 2018). As the music plays, many different men and women are shown posing in front of Lay’s trompe l’oeil bags with printed grins on them while participating in activities such as jumping on a trampoline, playing pool, or relaxing outside. As the music fades away, a female announcer says, “There’s nothing better than sharing a smile. Get a Lay’s smile bag today and we’ll make a donation to Operation Smile” (Lay’s TV Spot 2018). The final shot is of bags of different flavored Lay’s potato chips with the Operation Smile underneath. Below that are the words, “Get a smile. Give a smile” (Lay’s TV Spot 2018). The commercial is part of a three-year campaign with limited-run “Smiles” packaging that features thirty people who help their communities. The bags feature QR codes which allow consumers to find out more information about the people featured on the bags. As part of the campaign, the company agreed to donate up to $1 million to Operation Smile, a nonprofit organization that helps children with cleft lips. The third year of the program, which took place in 2020, was seen by some marketing analysts as “a counterpoint to masked and unhappy faces” during a period in time “when people are looking for something to smile about” (Williams 2020). The campaign takes on new relevancy this year and could have a greater emotional impact for consumers who may be seeking more joy in their lives as masks prevent them from sharing smiles, on top of having a long list of things to be worried about in a year that’s seen a pandemic, economic turmoil, natural disasters and social unrest. (Williams 2020)

At the American Marketing Association website, it is noted that the key for successful advertising is creating emotion. “A long-term effective ad creates

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positive emotion and reinforces memory structures around its brand so that when it comes time for a purchase decision, those positive feelings make brands seem like a better choice” (Ewing 2019). These positive emotions shown in the advertisements portray signs of using food to seek emotional change and representations of deep emotional attachment to food, both of which are food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11). It’s worth noting that the “smiles” and “positive emotion” created by this campaign are associated with an unhealthy food. “Because potato chips can become addicting and the serving size we actually eat is usually doubled or tripled, some find it best to stay away from chips like Lay’s altogether” (Oldham 2016). In addition to this, Loading ourselves with calories and fat causes weight gain and puts us at risk for other diseases. Unhealthy deep fried chips cause digestive problems and stress on the body’s metabolism making it harder to produce insulin, which in turn leads to (or significantly increases the risk of) type 2 diabetes. (Oldham 2016)

The combination of the unhealthiness and addictive quality of potato chips with the promises of “smiles” and happiness can be an overpowering one for someone addicted to food. In general, those suffering from addiction of any kind are often isolated, lonely, and filled with shame (Food Addiction Institute 2022). Any product promising to rid them of these conditions would be appealing; one that contains addictive substances may be too overpowering to resist and result in rapid physical and emotional decline. Another point worth noting is that the majority of the actors in the commercial are of normal-size weight, not people with obesity, which is the consequence of eating too many Lay’s potato chips. The smiling actors, upbeat music, lack of realistic body sizes, and charitable promise of this advertisement contribute to making this one of the most powerful examples of “Happy Eating” described within these pages. “SMILING TUMMIES” Smiles are not limited to human faces in ultra-processed food advertisements. An ad for Activia Yogurt features the “smiling tummies” of several people, including singer Reba McEntire, Dr. Travis Stork, and female boxer Laili Ali. The commercial begins with upbeat music and then an announcer saying, “Activia tummies. Happy people” with an image of Ali’s middle, no head shown, in which she holds a card of a stomach with a green smile on it over her own stomach (Activia TV Spot 2014). The next image is of another female midsection in which the female uses her finger to “draw” a smile over

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her stomach, though there are no markings. Next Reba McEntire is shown first in a headshot and then in a split screen with her also holding a card over her stomach as she says, “The secret to a great day, start it with a big smile” (Activia TV Spot 2014). A woman in white is shown laughing before there is a cut to Ali, who is also in split screen with herself and a card over her stomach as she says, “one that comes from inside” (Activia TV Spot 2014). The camera then goes back to McEntire, who is shown holding a container of the yogurt in a split screen with the woman in white who is holding a smiling card over her midsection while McEntire says, “That’s why I start every day with Activia, to help keep my digestive system in balance” (Activia TV Spot 2014). The camera goes back to Ali, who says, “And when I feel balanced, I’m at the top of my game” (Activia TV Spot 2014). Next, Stork is shown eating blueberryflavored yogurt and saying, “I love Activia Greek. So delicious” before an announcer says, “With the exclusive probiotic bifidus regularis, Activia helps regulate your digestive system,” after which McEntire says, “And when you tell me you’re feeling good, you won’t miss a beat” (Activia TV Spot 2014). The final shot is of six people, including McEntire, Ali, and Stork standing in a line. Two are holding yogurt containers, while four are holding smiling cards over their stomachs. The Activia logo is above them, and to the right are the words, “Feeling good starts from the inside” (Activia TV Spot 2014). In the lower-left corner is “#happytummies” (Activia TV Spot 2014). Another commercial for this product features a woman in a living room with a dog. The area is modern and comfortable-looking. To the right of the screen on a side table are a pizza box and an empty iced coffee cup with a straw. The woman says, “I don’t know what it is, food, stress, or running around but sometimes I feel bloated or gassy with rumbling, uncomfortable, like I’m sluggish or cranky” just before she growls at her dog who has jumped up on the couch and turns his head as if trying to understand what she is saying (Nathanolsen 2015). She looks at the dog and says, “You’re right, Bailey. I need a change. I’m taking the Activia Challenge,” after which the camera cuts to the words “Take the Activia Challenge” with a smile drawn underneath (Nathanolsen). The camera then shows the woman first in the refrigerator getting a container of yogurt, then smiling and eating it while a male announcer says, “Enjoying Activia twice a day for four weeks may help reduce the frequency of minor digestive issues like bloating, gas, discomfort, and rumbling. And if your tummy smiles, you can feel like you” (Nathanolsen 2015). During this time, there is an image of a tummy with a smile on it; then the woman is shown with a young boy walking the dog and smiling as the announcer encourages viewers to take the Activia Challenge “or it’s free” (Nathanolsen 2015). Though yogurt may seem to be a healthy food, it’s important to note that “fruit” yogurts are included in the NOVA Group 4 classification as

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ultra-processed foods due to the way the product is processed. Furthermore, cane sugar is listed as the second ingredient in many of the Activia yogurts, including the blueberry Greek yogurt eaten by Stork in the “Smiling Tummies” commercial. According to Amy Reichelt, BrainsCAN Research Associate, Western University, When we eat sweet foods the brain’s reward system—called the mesolimbic dopamine system—gets activated. Dopamine is a brain chemical released by neurons and can signal that an event was positive. When the reward system fires, it reinforces behaviours—making it more likely for us to carry out these actions again. Dopamine “hits” from eating sugar promote rapid learning to preferentially find more of these foods. (2022)

She further notes that even those who are not eating disordered experience cravings for sugar-filled foods, “in the case of sweet foods, this means we need to eat more to get the same rewarding feeling—a classic feature of addiction” (Reichelt 2022). While those who are food-addicted will experience powerful cravings when eating fruit yogurt, those who are not can also feel physically driven to eat more and more as well due to the sweet taste. In addition to this, the “exclusive probiotic bifidus regularis” mentioned in the 2014 commercial is actually a name trademarked by the company of a probiotic “scientifically known as B. animalis subsp. Lactis strain DN-173010, or as some people call it, B. lactis DN-173010” (Panyko 2023). According to nutrition and microbiome educator Jo Panyko, Dannon used to market the Activia line of yogurts for constipation help, but after several lawsuits, they dropped the specific health claims. Thus, the name “Regularis” was adopted in the past and still is used in some parts of the world today. (2023)

In other words, the company renamed a common probiotic strain available from other sources to create a scientific name to make consumers believe their bowel habits will become “regular” from eating this product while at the same time promoting use of the product to seek emotional change and creating a deep emotional attachment to the food, both of which are characteristics used to promote ultra-processed food in an addictive manner (Danowski 2019, 11).

“KOOL-AID SMILES” Smiles aren’t limited to only advertisements for ultra-processed foods but are used in ultra-processed drinks as well. The Kool-Aid Man is a large pitcher

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of sugar water with arms and legs and, of course, a smiling face. Known for busting through walls, the Kool-Aid Man was introduced in 1975 as a way to make the product memorable to both children and their mothers. According to Robert Skollar, who joined the General Foods marketing team at Grey Advertising in 1988 to continue promoting Kool-Aid, “the mascot helped propel sales of the drink mix. It was a phenomenon. Here you had this 50-year-old product that’s not really convenient and not particularly healthy, and it’s huge” (Rossen 2017). As one reporter noted, As Kool-Aid Man’s star grew, so did his opportunities to branch out. The property got its own Marvel comic—The Adventures of Kool-Aid Man—as well as an Atari 2600 video game. The latter could be redeemed with 125 points earned from purchasing Kool-Aid, which amounts to about 62.5 gallons of sugar water. (Rossen 2017)

A 1973 commercial before the introduction of Kool-Aid Man features a montage of children of various ages and ethnicities participating in activities such as playing basketball and dancing as well as drinking Kool-Aid. Though there is no dialogue, there is music with lyrics about different kinds of smiles with a chorus of “Happy smiles. Sunny smiles. Kool-Aid smiles” (Bionic Disco 2014). The final shot is of a red package of Kool-Aid with the smiling pitcher on it. Since that commercial aired, Kool-Aid man has been bursting through walls to “save” thirsty children in various settings, including school rooms and sporting events, always with the same smile. In a more recent commercial from 2014, Kool-Aid Man is shown in a park setting near a picnic bench and a woman. There is a mother, father, and two children in the background to the left. The woman by the picnic table looks suspiciously at the Kool-Aid Man. She approaches the Kool-Aid Man and asks, “What’s that?” as he pours liquid into a glass of water, to which he replies, “It’s Kool-Aid liquid. Squirt some into water and boom, Kool-Aid” (Commercial Ads 2018). The woman looks confused and says, “But you are Kool-Aid,” to which Kool-Aid Man replies, “People get freaked out when you drink from your own head, like real freaked out” (Commercial Ads 2018). The last shot is of four liquid Kool-Aid flavors with a glass filled with red liquid below the words, “Smile. It’s Kool-Aid” (Commercial Ads 2018). As previously noted, the use of physical activity in food advertisements can result in overconsumption (Falta, et al. 2006), and the use of mascots can result in incorrect nutritional assessment of products (Lapierre, Vaala, and Linebarger 2011), thus creating a true “Happy Eating” portrayal with the food addiction characteristics of using ultra-processed food to seek emotional change and portraying a deep attachment to that product (Danowski 2019, 11).

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In a departure from the “Smiling Kool-Aid”-type ads, a December 2021 ad features home improvement expert Bob Villa and actor Alfonso Riviera in an ABC “After Kool Commercial,” where Villa sets out to repair a hole in a wall made by Kool-Aid Man (Kool-Aid TV Spot 2021). In the ad Villa says to Kool-Aid Man, “You’re feeling bad about this, aren’t you big guy,” to which Kool-Aid Man replies, “Oh Yeah” (Kool-Aid TV Spot 2021). Villa then says, “You want to stop busting walls but you’re afraid you’re going to lose yourself, right?” after which Kool-Aid Man replies, “Oh Yeah” (Kool-Aid TV Spot 2021). Villa then tells Kool-Aid Man that “We’re going to start this project by fixing the hole in here” as he points to his heart, and Kool-Aid Man once again says, “Oh Yeah,” but in the form of a question before viewers are told by announcer, “On the next ABC After Kool Special” (Kool-Aid TV Spot 2021). This commercial was aired as a result of teenagers mimicking the wallbreaking antics of Kool-Aid Man on social media by destroying property.

PROMOTING HAPPINESS It’s important not to underestimate the powerful draw of seeing happy people and mascots in food advertisements. Not only are these “Happy Eating” portrayals without references to the dangers of eating unhealthy foods, but they have repeatedly been shown to increase food consumption. As researchers from one classic study who monitored elementary-school children’s eating habits while watching cartoons with and without food commercials and then conducted a separate experiment on adults noted, “[F]ood advertising that promoted snacking, fun, happiness and excitement (i.e., the majority of children’s food advertisements) directly contributed to increased food intake” (Harris, Bargh, and Brownell 2009). The researchers noted similar findings in adults as well: “Children may be most consistently affected, yet snack advertising also increased adult consumption, especially for men and those attempting to diet. In addition, the effects persisted after the viewing session” (Harris, Bargh, and Brownell 2009). When taking these results into consideration, it’s not difficult to understand why ultra-processed food advertisements include happy actors and actresses in them. In addition to the enjoyment experienced by viewers as they watch happy people dance, play sports, or generally move around on their screens, consumers also equate happy, positive feelings with the products advertised. In some cases, especially those involving children, viewers may even believe that eating the product will result in feelings of happiness and perhaps give them a more positive living experience, while in others, a deep emotional attachment to the happy images and the food itself will be developed creating food addiction portrayals in advertisements (Danowski 2019, 11).

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In the case of food addiction, these images of happy people mimic the feelings a food addict gets from eating addictive substances due to the physical release of certain brain chemicals. As a food addict continues to eat these foods, their brain makes less dopamine and thus creates tolerance to the substances, which results in the food addict eating more food, trying to achieve the same dopamine high while, at the same time, achieving less pleasure from other activities (Food Addiction Institute 2022). Relating this to the information from the previous study, it’s not difficult to hypothesize that food addicts can also receive a “high” from watching happy people on screen eating their addictive foods which may, in turn, cause them to seek out these foods for their next binge. In other words, the happiness in the addictive food commercials normalizes bingeing and creates a pseudo promise of happiness, which is lacking in a food addict’s body due to reduced brain chemical production.

PRETZEL CRUST PIZZA Happiness theme portrayals are not limited to direct interaction with the product but can be in reference to the item as in the case of Little Caesars’ Pretzel Crust Pizza ad, “Got It Down to a Science” commercial. The ad begins with a close-up of a hand reaching for a slice of pretzel crust peperoni pizza and then cuts to an African American woman and man eating pizza at home. The man asks the woman, “How does Little Caesars know when to bring back pretzel crust?” to which the woman answers, “I’m sure they’ve got it down to a science” (AD ARCHIVES 2023). The next shot is of two men and women dressed in office attire standing around a table with a small dollhouse on it. One man is sweating, while the woman says, “Do something” as she looks down at a table on which is a small bear-type animal (AD ARCHIVES 2023). The other man looks at the animal and says, “Come on” as the camera pulls in for a close-up of the animal, who, after the man’s urging, begins to dance (AD ARCHIVES 2023). Following this, the three businesspeople begin to cheer. One of the men says, “He’s dancing. Pretzel Pete is busting a move. Pretzel crust is back” as the other two cheer loudly in a celebratory manner before the camera cuts back to the African American man, who says, “Yeah, they definitely know what they’re doing” (AD ARCHIVES 2023). The next shot is of the pizza with Pretzel Pete to the right of the screen with the words “$6.99. Hot-N-Ready 4-8 PM. Pretzel Crust,” while a male announcer says, “The crust the world craves is back at Little Casears” before the camera returns to the three businesspeople cheering loudly (AD ARCHIVES 2023). Though the happy businesspeople never directly interact with the product, they are elated to be bringing back pretzel crust pizza and celebrate what viewers are led to believe is a happy, exciting event.

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First introduced for a limited time in 2014, Pretzel Crust Pizza became a favorite of Little Caesars’ customers so much so that a petition on Change​ .o​rg collected over 5,200 signatures after the restaurant discontinued the pizza (Kenney 2023). The pie features a “buttery-flavored soft pretzel crust pizza with creamy cheddar cheese sauce, mozzarella and Muenster cheeses and pepperoni,” according to a product description (Kenney 2023). In a press release, which appeared in many local and national news outlets, the company warned that Pretzel Crust Pizza would only be released for a limited time only beginning on March 27. It’s important to note that “euphoric recall” of eating certain foods is a symptom of food addiction, as is putting great importance on food to the extent that it becomes the sole focus of the addict’s life (The Food Addiction Institute 2023). Though not all those whose signatures are on the petition to bring back Pretzel Crust Pizza are food addicts, it is possible that many may be considering the fact that food addicts place great importance on specific binge foods and develop deep emotional attachments to their binge foods (Food Addiction Institute 2022). The fat, sugar, and salt as well as the cheese are all binge foods for those addicted to food. Pizza is an ultra-processed food with health implications for even normal eaters since it is high in calories, fat, and sodium, and topped with processed salty meats in the case of the peperoni type advertised in the commercial.

“THE CRAVE FOR CANDY” Throughout the years, the happiness theme has also been combined with other themes to promote ultra-processed foods. An example of this is the “Crave for Candy” advertising campaign, which ran from 1946 through 1947. Sponsored by the Council on Candy of the National Confectioners’ Association, an organization devoted to disseminating information about candy, the ads targeted various audiences promising both happiness and energy. A 1947 print advertisement targeted housewives with the headline, “The ‘Crave for Candy’ is a call for energy” (PicClick 2023). The ad features a red background with a white heart in the upper two-third portion of the page. In the heart to the left is a smiling woman wearing an apron and holding a box of candy. To the right of her, underneath the headline is the following text: You’ve steered a broom. You’ve swung an iron. You’ve done your duty by the dishes. When you stop for a bit of recess doesn’t your taster say, “Wish there were some candy in the house!” Housework-or any work-uses energy. Candy is an excellent way to put it back. What a happy way to renew Can Do! (PicClick 2023)

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Underneath this in larger text are the words, “Candy’s Dandy. Keep It Handy” (PicClick 2023). Below that in a smaller heart the text reads, “Candy is delicious food” with a ribbon on the lower portion of the heart containing the words, “Enjoy some every day” (PicClick 2023). Behind the smaller heart are images of candy without brand names. Similarly, an ad in this series from the previous year featured a young girl and a young boy on roller-skates with a similar layout in a large heart sharing a box of candy. The headline remains the same (“The ‘Crave for Candy’ . . . often a call for energy”). Around the top of the heart are the words, “America love candy. American needs energy” (PicClick 2023). The text inside the heart to the left of the children reads: If your body never sent out an “SOS” for energy, there would be no call for candy . . . except for pleasure purposes. But bodies do need energy, and candy is an energy food. Yes, America, we are growing beyond those stern days which ruled, “If it tastes good to you, it mustn’t be good for you!” Modern nutritionists now agree that when the body calls for energy, candy is one of the quick and happy answers. That’s why we remind you in rhyme when it’s Energy Time: Candy’s Dandy. Keep It Handy. (PicClick 2023)

Below the heart are the words “Candy makes friends,” and to the right of that are images of assorted non–brand name candies (PicClick 2023). Several other ads in this series are targeted at working men, active adults, sportsmen, women who worked during the war, and retired men. Though the word happy was not directly used in all these advertisements, eating candy was described as bringing pleasure to those who partook, which arguably promises happiness without the actual use of the word. As one candy historian notes, “Candy paved the way for a panoply of other highly processed foods that, like candy, were convenient, portable, palatable, and cheap” (Kawash 2013, 14). In her book Kawash points out the deep connection between candy and happiness. She writes, Usually, if we think about candy at all, it’s as the stuff of happy memories; cotton candy at the state fair, the birthday party pinata, the overflowing Easter baskets and Halloween bags, the glittering Hanukkah gelt, the comfort of the lollipop at the doctor’s office, the reward of M&M’s for potty training, the chocolates from a loved one on Valentine’s Day, or the prettily wrapped favors at weddings. (2013, 8)

She further notes that these happy events are followed by warnings about not eating too much or rotting teeth. For those addicted to food, eating too much candy is about much more than rotten teeth. The promise of eating candy as a means of gaining energy after

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taking a break, feeling happy, making friends, and promoting good health is dangerously appealing to food addicts, which contributes to their denial of the powerful consequences they experience when they eat ultra-processed foods which cannot be helped by dieting and willpower (Food Addiction Institute 2022). In other words, these advertisements with the headlines, “The Crave for Candy” are right on target about the effects eating candy has on food addicts, yet by pairing the “crave” with the promise of energy and nutritional advice, the advertisers have created a climate of denial which encourages not only food addicts but also normal eaters to use an ultra-processed food for a state of being which is not possible from ingesting this food. In addition to this, the portrayals of using food to seek emotional change and the representations of deep emotional attachment to the food are both food addiction characteristics (Danowski 2019, 11).

HAPPY MASCOTS Another way in which the happiness theme is shown in food advertisements is through the mascots chosen to promote the products. Though many of the commercials which include the mascots in them do not directly mention happiness or joy, the appearance of the mascots is designed to create these feelings, the result of which is incorrect nutritional assessment of the products (Lapierre, Vaala, and Linebarger 2011). Not including those already mentioned previously, some examples of well-known mascots include the M&M’s spokescandies, Snap, Crackle and Pop for Rice Crispies, Julius Pringle featured on Pringles cartons, Quicky the Bunny on Nesquik, Twinkie the Kid for Twinkies, Lefty the Glove for Hamburger Helper, Buzz Bee for Honey Nut Cheerios, Lucky for Lucky Charms, Chuck E. Cheese for the children’s entertainment restaurants, Toucan Sam for Fruit Loops, Trix Rabbit for Trix Cereal, Cap’n Crunch for the cereal of the same name, the Keebler Elves for various Keebler cookies, Chester Cheetah for Cheetos, and Ronald McDonald for McDonald’s. Most of these mascots are anthropomorphized, meaning they are made to mimic human actions where otherwise there would be none. Marketing experts have long recognized the power of giving human characteristics to products. As one expert points out, We relate to what we know best, which is ourselves. On the other hand, we have trouble understanding anything that differs from us. So adding eyes, mouths, arms, and legs to a round candy like M&M’s humanizes the product and allows our minds to relate to it more easily. It’s the same as folktales that humanized animal characters (the three little pigs, the ugly duckling) in order to deepen

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our connection to the message. That’s exactly what food mascots do, except the message is, “buy and eat this product.” (Pagan 2022)

Research has proven that the message to eat this product given through mascots works to make consumers feel more comfortable. In a study to determine how anthropomorphizing affects self-control, researchers found that when human characteristics are given to a tempting product, self-control is impaired “not by boosting desire strength but by decreasing consumers’ experience of conflict toward consuming the product,” making them “more likely to indulge in the product” (Hur 2015, 340). They explain that these mascots “act as another agent in the self-control dilemma, which decreases the extent to which consumers attribute the cause of and responsibility for their consumption to themselves” (Hur 2015, 340). In other words, these “happy mascots” with human characteristics help consumers to forget how much they are eating. In addition to this, another study examined the connection between anthropomorphism and spending, specifically whether or not consumers would pay more if an anthropomorphic mascot were used. Using an online auction format, the researchers examined both visual and auditory designs as related to product attachment, emotion, and product quality (Yuan 2019, 450). They found that “adding visual anthropomorphizing features to the way a product was displayed increased the amount bid by 7 percent but adding auditory anthropomorphizing features had no effect,” concluding that “visual anthropomorphizing features increased product attachment but had no effect on emotions or perceptions of product quality” (Yuan 2019, 450). They further noted that “anthropomorphizing the way a product is displayed increases willingness to pay primarily through the theoretical route of creating attachment to the product” (Yuan 2019, 450). In line with this, advertising industry researchers have found that “brand mascots and characters can increase profit and emotional connection with customers by up to 41%” (Moving Picture Company 2021). An example of an advertisement with happy mascots is one from 2019 for Keebler Fudgy Fudge Cookies. The fifteen-second commercial begins with “head elf” Ernie Keebler in his “cookie workshop” looking into the camera and asking, “Wonder how Keebler Fudge Shop Cookies get perfectly fudgy? Huh? Well look” before the camera moves to a shot of Ernie and another elf painting fudge on cookies which are positioned on easels (Keebler TV Spot 2019). The other elf looks over his shoulder at Ernie’s cookie, and when Ernie bends over, the other elf adds fudge to Ernie’s cookie who is telling viewers, “We only use the richest, creamiest, real Keebler fudge” (Keebler TV Spot 2019). During this time, the elves are shown assembling cookies first by putting two halves stuffed with fudge

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together and then by throwing a cookie Frisbee style into a pot of fudge to send it sailing across the room into the arms of a smiling Ernie, who holds the cookie up before the camera cuts to a shot of three boxes of cookies, during which time Ernie says, “Perfectly fudgy uncommonly good” (Keebler TV Spot 2019). Throughout the commercial, all the elves shown are smiling and happily making cookies except for the one shot in which the other painter elf looks at Ernie’s cookies. He is later shown smiling after “fixing” Ernie’s cookie. Whether the happiness theme is expressed outwardly through use of the word “happy,” with happy actors, or through smiling mascots, these portrayals of obtaining happiness from ultra-processed foods are especially appealing to those addicted to food. Depression and unhappiness are commonly linked to addictions of all kinds (Food Addiction Institute 2022). Using the happiness theme in ultra-processed food advertisements which show happy people and mascots enjoying addictive food offers unhappy addicts the promise of behavior changes to rid themselves of the overwhelmingly negative feelings they experience due to their addictions. Many experts note the link between addiction and depression with one noting that many people self-medicate with drugs or alcohol as a way of managing their depressive symptoms. However, instead of making things better, it often only exacerbates the issue, and depression and alcohol [or food] use can both spiral out of control. (Mosel 2022)

The appeal of the happiness shown in ultra-processed foods to food addicts who are experiencing depression should not be underestimated. The promise of happiness and emotional change from addictive misery can be powerful. However, the reality is that eating these foods deepens addictive behaviors (Food Addiction Institute 2022) without food addicts ever obtaining the “guaranteed” happiness portrayed in these advertisements, thus resulting in greater frustration and depression. In the case of food addiction, the search for pleasure is not only emotional but physical as well, thus making these ultra-processed food advertisements promising happiness even more appealing, mimicking a food addict’s drive to feel happy. As noted by The INFACT School, One of the most critical factors to address in food addiction is a pleasure. In reality, highly processed foods are easy to overindulge in for anyone. Highly palatable foods increase the amount of dopamine in the brain, which is highly rewarding and pleasurable and perpetuates the cycle. This process can become compulsive when this is the only source of pleasure in one’s life. (INFACT 2023)

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Relating this to the happiness promised in these ultra-processed food commercials, it becomes clear that those addicted to food, and in many cases those who are normal eaters, are drawn in by the allure of living happier lives through eating unhealthy foods which can result in deep emotional attachments to food, a characteristic of food addiction behavior (Danowski 2019, 11). In the next chapter, the theme of substituting eating for exercise in ultraprocessed food advertisements will be examined.

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“Today is a great day to show up for yourself! Let’s ride!” says rap star Ice-T as he peddles a stationary bicycle, causing one perplexed and tired-looking woman, also peddling to ask her friend, “Why is Ice-T leading our spin class?” (Cheerios TV Spot 2022). The woman next to her shakes her head while the camera cuts to the animated Honey Nut Cheerios Bumble Bee who says, “It’s probably the Honey Nut Cheerios. He found out that they can help lower cholesterol now he’s taking care of his heart in fun new ways” (Cheerios TV Spot 2022). After the Bumble Bee finishes speaking, the camera cuts to a shot of Ice-T sitting on his exercise machine eating a bowl of cereal and smiling. The last shot is of two boxes of Cheerios with the Bumble Bee and the words, “Have a change of heart” to the right, during which time Ice-T can be heard saying, “That’s what I’m talking about!” (Cheerios TV Spot 2022). Similarly, another Honey Nut Cheerios commercial features college basketball players. The commercial opens with the Honey Nut Cheerios Bumble Bee dressed in an umpire shirt saying, “Starting with the delicious taste of Honey Nut Cheerios, anyone can have fun taking care of their heart” before the Bee flies onto a basketball court where college athletes are playing (Cheerios TV Spot “College Basketball” 2022). The next shot is of former professional basketball player Bill Walton wearing headphones with a microphone attached. He says, “Someone get that bee off the court,” to which the Bee says, “Bill, you might benefit from an active lifestyle and Honey Nut Cheerios” (Cheerios TV Spot “College Basketball” 2022). The next shot is a split screen of a smiling Walton on one side eating a bowl of cereal with his thumb up and the bee in the game on the other. The bee is then shown flying the basketball into the basket, which is followed by a shot of two boxes of Cheerios on a bench with towels, a bowl full of cereal with a spoon, and a 85

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basketball net in the background with the words, “Have a Change of Heart” (Cheerios TV Spot “College Basketball” 2022). In an equally as active commercial for another cereal product geared toward a younger audience, a young boy is shown waking up smiling and running out of bed while the soundtrack of electric rock band Le Tigre singing “Yabba Dabba” plays in the background. Throughout the commercial the words “Yabba Dabba” are used to identify various activities which the children are shown participating in (Fruity Pebbles TV Spot 2019). The first of these activities is labeled “Yabba Dabba Dance,” while the second is “Yabba Dabba Roll,” followed by “Yabba Dabba Cocoa” with a smiling boy shown next to a box of Pebbles Cereal, which is then followed by “Yabba Dabba Jump” showing Flintstone animated characters Fred and Barney jumping (Fruity Pebbles TV Spot 2019). Next there is a shot of children painting, then the cereal on the screen with the words “Yabba Dabba Fruity,” followed by a shot of a male child with a metal helmet dancing and the words “Yabba Dabba Robot,” then a girl with a hula hoop and the words “Yabba Dabba Twirl” (Fruity Pebbles TV Spot 2019). The final shot is of three different boxes of various “Pebbles” cereals, a glass of milk, and a glass of orange juice with the words “Yabba Dabba Doo” above a bowl with cereal in it (Fruity Pebbles TV Spot 2019). All three of these commercial contain images of exercise and movement while advertising ultra-processed foods. Research has shown that “unhealthy food sponsorship promoted higher awareness of, and more favourable [sic] attitudes towards, unhealthy food sponsor brands” among young adults viewing elite sporting events as well as “transfer of perceptions of the sporting event to the unhealthy food sponsor brands” (Dixon, et  al. 2018). In other words, when young adults watched sporting events in which unhealthy food products were advertised, they believed the foods to be healthier than they actually were by transferring their perceptions about the healthiness of the sporting event to the food product. In this study, researchers also found that sponsorship of healthy foods resulted in similar attitudes leading them to conclude that “restricting elite sport sponsorship to healthier food brands that meet set nutritional criteria could help promote healthier eating among young adults” and suggesting that “sporting organisations [sic] should be encouraged to seek sponsorship from companies who produce healthier food brands and government-funded social marketing campaigns” (Dixon, et  al. 2018). It’s not difficult to translate these findings into advertisements that include active images of people exercising or playing sports, which create positive healthy feelings about unhealthy, ultra-processed foods. In line with this, the Global Food Research Network notes that “Children are repeatedly exposed to marketing that portrays eating unhealthy foods in unlimited quantities as fun, cool, and exciting, and ultimately having

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only positive outcomes” (2022, 2), thus further illustrating the relationship between “Happy Eating” images and ultra-processed food advertising. The organization further notes that Adolescents—both targeted more heavily by industry in recent years and not protected by most marketing regulations—are also uniquely vulnerable: They are developmentally hypersensitive to reward and appetitive cues, and their ability to resist advertising messages is easily overwhelmed by marketing disguised as entertainment, celebrity or influencer recommendations, or messages from peers. (Global Food Research Network 2022, 2)

Drawing on this information, it becomes clear how the appearance of health and health-related activities in ultra-processed food commercials can cause children, adolescents, and even adults to believe these foods to be healthier than they actually are, thus leading to overconsumption. For those addicted to food, the belief of ultra-processed foods being healthier can promote further denial of the disease, thus delaying or even abandoning recovery. Denial about having the disease is one of the biggest hurdles on the path to recovery (Food Addiction Institute 2022; Werdell 2023). Simply knowing that food addiction is a dangerous, progressive addiction does not result in breaking food addiction denial (Food Addiction Institute 2022; Werdell 2023). Advertisements featuring active consumers exercising or playing sports can contribute to this denial and ultimately block recovery. Even those not addicted to food oftentimes succumb to “Happy Eating” marketing techniques. As one review of ninety-six studies of food marketing and eating behavior in children notes, “food marketing was associated with significant increases in food intake, choice, preference, and purchase requests” (Boyland, et  al. 2022). Similarly, as previously mentioned, research has shown that viewing food advertisements results in overconsumption of food (Arrona-Cardoza, et al. 2023); therefore, the act of marketing ultra-processed foods to both those addicted to food and those who are normal eaters can increase consumption of unhealthy food. It’s not difficult to understand how powerful these images of healthy, active peers can be to both children and adults when viewed repeatedly. EXERCISE GONE WRONG Some ultra-processed food manufacturers use a different technique when portraying the exercise theme in their commercials. In a 2015 commercial for Goodness Knows Snack Squares, a woman is shown in an exercise class. She appears out of sync with the group as the announcer says, “First class, going to punch her way to fitness,” after which the woman punches another

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woman next to her in the face and the announcer says, “Hey, great form though” (Goodness Knows 2015). The next shot is of the two women sitting on a bench. The one who did the punching is eating a Goodness Knows Snack Square, while the one who was punched is holding an ice bag on her cheek. The announcer says, “A little goodness is the beginning of greatness” as the woman who did the punching offers the other woman a Snack Square while the announcer continues, “whole nuts, real fruit with dark chocolate” as the camera cuts to a close-up of the Snack Squares (Goodness Knows 2015). The announcer then says, “Introducing Goodness Knows” and the words “try a little goodness” appear above the Snack Square package (Goodness Knows 2015). The underlying message in this commercial is that eating Snack Squares is less harmful to others and more conducive to making friends than exercising. Taking this a step further, the message can even be construed as it’s best to avoid exercise and eat Snack Squares instead in order not to appear foolish or inept. The message about trying new activities is also clear—don’t if you want to continue to appear functional and not make a fool out of yourself. This is a very dangerous message for both those addicted to food and those who are normal eaters. Replacing eating an ultra-processed food with healthy physical exercise can result in not only disordered eating habits but serious health issues as well.

“IT’S YOPLAITIME” The exercise theme has also been used to advertise fruit yogurt. In September 2008, Yoplait Yogurt teamed up with exercise guru Richard Simons to create a commercial for the product. The commercial opens with two women in the grocery store; one is carrying a shopping basket, and the other is pushing a cart. One woman says to the other, “I mean I did lose some weight. I get really hungry in the afternoon,” to which the other woman replies, “I can imagine. I crave strawberry shortcake” (xEXABYTEx 2011). The other woman says that she wants some strawberry shortcake right now; then the two women begin to list all the other things they’d like to eat including key lime pie and Boston cream pie. As the woman finishes saying Boston cream pie in front of the yogurt area, Simmons yells, “Boston cream pie” startling the two women (xEXABYTEx 2011). Simmons begins exercising in the grocery store and yelling, “Ladies, please don’t. No, no listen! You need to exercise! You need to know your worth! Farewell to fat! Yeah!” (xEXABYTEx 2011). While he is talking, the women are attempting to tell him that they are discussing yogurt flavors. As he exercises, one of the women slowly puts several yogurt containers in her cart as a female announcer says, “Yoplait Lite with 28 delicious flavors and 100 calories, it only sounds fattening” as Simmons

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continues to exercise and yell, “Come on baby. Swim baby” (xEXABYTEx 2011). More recently in 2020, Yoplait launched the “It’s Yoplaitime” Challenge campaign by teaming up with Jennifer Lopez to encourage physical activity in children and donate to the nonprofit organization Feeding America (Business Wire 2020). Through Instagram, Lopez encouraged families to post videos of themselves “showing their best moves,” after which Yoplait would donate $1 for each video posted up to $300,000 to Feeding America. In a press release for the campaign Susan Pitt, director of brand experience, General Mills, stated, Yoplait is committed to helping moms raise happy and active kids, all while providing a snack that both kids love and moms see as a convenient, affordable way to give their kids the calcium they need to help build strong bones and play long. As families find creative ways to get the physical activity they need amidst this new reality, we hope that the Yoplaitime Challenge is an easy, engaging way for families to play and move together while helping raise funds for nutritious food, like dairy, for families in need. (Business Wire 2020)

In one of the commercials aired during this campaign in 2020, a woman is seen handing each of her children, a boy and girl, a container of Yoplait while a female announcer says, “It’s Yoplaitime!” (Yoplaitime: Movement 2020). Upbeat music comes on as one of the children turns off the television, after which they both begin to dance as confetti falls and the word “calcium” is shown in pink on the left and the words “strong bones” are shown on the right (Yoplaitime: Movement 2020). The female announcer says, “Wow! Elizabeth and Lucas are incredible! Look at those strong moves,” as the mother smiles adoringly before the camera cuts to a shot of the yogurt underneath the words, “It’s Yoplaitime!” then to the words, which the female announcer reads, “Yoplait Original, an excellent source of calcium” (Yoplaitime: Movement 2020). In a similar commercial the following year, a mother is shown giving Yoplait yogurt to her two children who are obviously bored as they sit on the front steps. After eating the yogurt, they strap on helmets, Velcro their shoes, and jump on their bikes as the female announcer says, “Wow! Alex and Julie are so fast! So strong!” as the children ride down the street and their mother cheers on the sidelines (Yoplaitime: Biking 2021). As they ride, confetti falls, the word “calcium” is shown in pink on the left and the words “strong bones” are shown on the right (Yoplaitime: Biking 2021). The camera cuts to a shot of the yogurt underneath the words, “It’s Yoplaitime!” then to the words, which the female announcer reads, “Yoplait with calcium to help build strong bones and play long” (Yoplaitime: Biking 2021).

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Though aired a dozen years apart, the Richard Simmons and two Yoplaitime commercials employed the exercise theme to create a link between physical activity and the ultra-processed Yoplait fruit yogurt. In the Simmons commercial, the product is used as a substitute for exercise as evidenced by the opening in which one woman tells the other that she lost some weight this week as they later reach for the yogurt and regard Simmons with obvious apprehension and shock. In this commercial, Simmons makes a spectacle in the store and appears to be fanatical about exercising and losing weight, while the women appear to be sane as they reach for the yogurt. Thus, Simmons, who represents exercise, not only seems to be unnecessary for the women to succeed at weight loss but also obsessive and may possibly be viewed as having mental health challenges as he is portrayed in this commercial. For viewers, the message is clear: eat yummy “forbidden” flavors of Yoplait yogurt, lose weight, and forget about exercise. In the two Yoplaitime commercials, both sets of children jump up from inactivity and/or boredom after eating the yogurt to become “incredible,” “fast,” and “strong” in either dance moves or bike riding. It appears as if the “calcium” and “strong bones” from the yogurt caused the children to first participate in their activities and then to excel at them. In both cases, the mothers in the commercials are happy, proud, and grateful to see their children exercising as a result of eating Yoplait yogurt. The message to mothers in this commercial is that if they feed their children this yogurt, their children will have “strong bones,” exercise, and obtain good health. It’s important to note that once the children begin to exercise, they are happy, almost to the point of bliss, firmly establishing a connection between Yoplait yogurt, exercise, and happiness. For overworked and stressed mothers, the promise in these commercials of simply feeding their children yogurt to improve their health, happiness, and movement is an attractive, though unrealistic, selling point. The ingredients in Yoplait Strawberry Yogurt are cultured grade A low-fat milk, sugar, strawberries, modified food starch, water, and 1 percent or less of corn starch, tricalcium phosphate, carmine (for color), pectin, natural flavor, kosher gelatin, vitamin A acetate, and vitamin D3. It’s important to remember that ingredients are listed in the order of predominance, with the greatest amount first, which makes it worth noting that sugar is the second ingredient listed BEFORE strawberries and followed by modified food starch and corn starch, both of which are used to add sweetness to products. Modified food starch is used as a thickener and stabilizer, while corn starch, also a thickener, is used to create corn syrup, a thick sweet syrup. All three of these ingredients are triggers for those addicted to food, which most often will result in bingeing on this so-called “healthy” product. For those addicted to food, these three commercials massage the mistaken belief that eating yogurt can be a substitute for healthy activity or exercise,

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which results in perpetuating food addiction denial. In each of these commercials, the yogurt is used to relieve emotional discomfort (boredom) or seek emotional change (satisfaction with weight loss), both of which are indications of food addiction behavior (Danowski 2019, 11). Additionally, all the actors in the three commercials are shown to have a deep emotional attachment to the yogurt with the women dreaming of eating different yogurt flavors while grocery shopping and the children being motivated by the product to have fun. In the Yoplait fruit yogurt commercials, the yogurt is seen as the answer to the problem of weight loss, a substitute for exercise, a remedy for boredom, and a motivation tool to get children moving without any mention of the consequences of eating an ultra-processed food, making these “Happy Eating” portrayals.

HEALTH HALO Portrayals of physical activity to link ultra-processed foods not only create “Happy Eating” depictions; they also create unrealistic and untrue expectations. In one study of physical activity in children’s sugary cereal food advertisements, it was noted that “There has been an increase in the frequency with which physical activity is depicted in advertisements for high-sugar foods” (Castonguay 2015), prompting the researcher to examine the ramifications of these portrayals in two groups of children, the first ages five to six and the second ages ten to eleven. As part of the study, a content analysis of food advertisements from 2009 to 2013 was conducted to determine the changes in marketing messages in children’s advertisements. The researcher interviewed children in both groups to determine their abilities to understand “juxtaposed beliefs” such as “connecting exercise with food high in sugar” before the children were offered snacks as a means of researching their food choices (Castonguay 2015). It was concluded that “When presented with such advertising, a greater number of older than younger children recognized juxtaposed beliefs. Those younger children who showed recognition were more likely to select the advertised item, although this was not the case with older children” (Castonguay 2015). Though the older children appeared to understand the juxtaposed images in the cereal commercials and make healthier food choices directly after viewing the commercial, it’s impossible to determine the effects seeing thousands of these commercial over decades has. In a similar study conducted two years later, children seven to eleven years old were shown three different commercials in one of the following conditions: “(1) health halo (unfamiliar nutrient-poor food/drink ads with healthy messages); (2) nutrient-poor food/drink ads with other messages and (3) healthy food/drink ads” (Harris, et al. 2017). Following this, the children

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were asked to rate the healthiness of the advertised products. The researchers found that Children in the health halo condition rated the advertised nutrient-poor products as significantly healthier compared with children in other conditions, but the other commercials did not affect children’s attitudes about other advertised products. Child age, gender or TV viewing habits did not significantly predict their ratings. There was no evidence that healthy lifestyle messages and/or healthy food commercials improved children’s attitudes about nutrition, exercise or healthy snack consumption. (Harris, et al. 2017)

The researchers concluded that healthy messages in unhealthy food and drink commercials make the product advertised appear healthier but do not necessarily result in children having increased positive attitudes about health and nutrition. The “health halo” effect is an important concept when considering the relationship between the exercise theme and advertisements for ultra-processed foods. Not only do those viewing commercials with the exercise theme believe the foods to be healthier than they really are, but they also do not promote the favorable attitudes about health and nutrition which could have the potential to result in healthier eating habits. Building on this, a similar study found that health warnings were ineffective when food-stimuli was present (Verhoeven, Watson, and de Wit 2018, 616). This led the researchers to conclude that “Health messages influence food choice behavior but are no longer effective when food-associated stimuli are present” (Verhoeven, Watson, and de Wit 2018, 616). Subsequent research has proven that adolescents’ response to fast-food commercials determine their food intake (Gearhardt, et al. 2020). In the study, the brains of 171 adolescents aged 13–16 years with normal to obese body sizes were scanned while viewing both healthier and nonhealthy fast-food commercials as well as nonfood advertisements, after which they ate a meal in a fast-food environment where healthy and unhealthy choices were available. Researchers found that those teens with more neural activation in the brain’s “reward” region were more likely to eat more and make unhealthy choices, while those with less activation during the commercials made healthier choices (Gearhardt, et al. 2020). The researchers concluded that: These findings suggest that FF [fast food] commercials contribute to overeating in adolescents through reward mechanisms. The addition of healthier commercials from FF restaurants is unlikely to encourage healthier food intake, but interventions that reduce the ability of unhealthy FF commercials to capture attention could be beneficial. However, an overall reduction in the amount of FF commercials exposure for adolescents is likely to be the most effective approach.

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When taking all three of these studies into consideration, it’s not difficult to understand how the exercise theme used to promote unhealthy foods can increase both consumption and beliefs about the health of the products advertised. For those addicted to food, whose brain “reward” regions have already been altered (Food Addiction Institute 2022), resisting the temptation brought on by commercials for ultra-processed food is nearly impossible and, as research suggests, will result in greater food intake due to exposure to the advertisements (Gearhardt, et al. 2020). “BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS” Perhaps some of the most well-known exercise-themed food advertisements have come from Wheaties cereal. With the slogan, “Breakfast of Champions” Wheaties cereal portrayed many images of exercising in different types of athletic situations throughout the years. Wheaties “promoted the cereal as a healthy breakfast option through its association with athletics and athletes,” having had over 850 athletes appear on boxes since 1934 (Kirby 2021). Wheaties is also credited with creating the first jingle broadcast on radio on Christmas Eve in 1926. The jingle “Have You Tried Wheaties” was performed by a barbershop quartet and eventually paved the way for other companies to use jingles in their advertisements. It is also believed that the company was instrumental in creating sports programming on radio and television by convincing Major League Baseball to broadcast their games, during which the cereal was heavily advertised (Kirby 2021), which resulted in use of the “Breakfast Of Champions” slogan in 1933. The following year, baseball player Lou Gehrig was the first athlete featured on the cereal’s box. A 1939 newspaper ad featured “Yankee Clipper” Joe DiMaggio with a picture of the baseball player eating the cereal and a headline “Joy Magnified” (mounted951fyg. 2023). Underneath the headline, the text begins with Look at the big order of fun Joe DiMaggio is having with his “Breakfast of Champions”—Wheaties with cream, sugar, and peaches! “It’s my hunch,” says The Yankee Clipper, “that Wheaties are bound to make a hit with any baseball fan who gets hungry.” (mounted951fyg. 2023)

The text continues by promising to deliver “champion flavor” and “extra nourishment” above the words, “Breakfast of Champions” (mounted951fyg. 2023). Similarly, a 1950s Wheaties commercial featured Clayton Moore as The Lone Ranger along with rodeo champion Bob Maynard. The commercial opens with the two riding horses, while an announcer asks, “What are champions made of?” (Daily Motion 2016). After stopping the horses, The Lone

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Ranger looks at the camera and says, “Here’s a man who can tell you, Cowboy Champion Bob Maynard. Bob’s going to do some steer wrestling for you. Let’s take a look” (Daily Motion 2016). The camera cuts to Bob wrestling a steer to the ground as The Lone Ranger says, “Here comes Bob, 175 pounds against 800 pounds of fighting steer. Look at him strain. He’s got him down. That’s real form” (Daily Motion 2016). The next shot is of Bob and The Lone Ranger. Bob is sitting on a fence which The Lone Ranger is leaning on. The Lone Ranger looks up at Bob and says, “Bob, you certainly showed that steer who was boss. I know you didn’t learn that overnight,” to which Bob replies, “I sure didn’t Lone Ranger. Take a look at this old snapshot of me” as the camera shows a young boy on a horse (Daily Motion 2016). The Lone Ranger asks, “How old were you, Bob?” to which Bob replies, “Eight years” (Daily Motion 2016). The Lone Ranger says, “Already in the saddle. Were you eating Wheaties then?” to which Bob replies, “I sure was” (Daily Motion 2016). The Lone Ranger then asks Bob if he still eats Wheaties and Bob replies, “You bet your boots I do” before the camera replays the scene of Bob wrestling the steer to the ground as the announcer says, “Yes, sir. Champions like Bob Maynard and folks all over the country are eating their Wheaties and doing okay because there’s a whole kernel of wheat in every Wheaties flake. That’s Wheaties, breakfast of champions” as the camera shows a bowl of cereal with a spoon lifted (Daily Motion 2016). A 1960s commercial features the exercise theme as a means of improving health. The commercial begins with a professionally dressed woman at a small blackboard. She writes the numbers 10 – 30 – 60 on the board and asks viewers the best length of time for exercising, Ten minutes? Half an hour? An hour? Well, get set for a pleasant surprise. Scientists have recently discovered that six seconds of the right exercise can do you as much good as long periods of exercising and these exercises are so simply that you can do them without any equipment during your free moments throughout the day. (The W/O/C Archives 2016)

The woman then to instructs viewers in a seated twisting exercise and then tells viewers they can do the exercise “before enjoying your Wheaties, for me, the other part of keeping fit,” noting that “Wheaties is good if you’re on a diet. A standard one-ounce serving is just 106 calories and only four percent are fat calories” before encouraging viewers to give the cereal a try (The W/O/C Archives 2016). A commercial from the same time period features a champion diver with an announcer telling viewers to watch and asking if they would like to be really good at a sport, too. Viewers are then encouraged to begin eating “like a champion” by Bob Richards, an Olympic Champion who is shown sitting next to a box of Wheaties (The W/O/C Archives 2016). He then says

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that children have their own cereals, and that Wheaties is an adult cereal to help those who eat it become a champion. The “Breakfast of Champions” slogan is used at the end of the commercial. Similarly, a 1980s commercial features Caitlyn Jenner. The commercial begins with Jenner vigorously riding a bicycle with text introducing her as an “Olympic Champion” as upbeat music plays with lyrics about getting the whole wheat working (Ewjxn 2019). Jenner then tells viewers to “Get whole wheat Wheaties working for you. For good nutrition, Wheaties is hard to beat” and then going on to explain that the cereal is made from the whole kernel of wheat, including the “heart of the wheat” as well as “bran fiber” and “wheat germ, too” (Ewjxn 2019). She then tells viewers, “Don’t shortchange your body. Get all of the nutrition that comes from a good breakfast like a whole wheat Wheaties breakfast” just before eating a spoonful of the cereal (Ewjxn 2019). Jenner is then shown riding her bike waving a fist in the air before the last shot, which includes a photo of her at the Olympics, a box of the cereal and the words, “Breakfast of Champions” (Ewjxn 2019). Throughout the years, the cereal would go on to feature many professional athletes from a wide variety of sports in commercials and on cereal boxes with the slogan “Breakfast of Champions” and the reminder of the whole wheat feature of the product. Some of the sports represented as part of this campaign include baseball, tennis, golf, diving, track and field, speedskating, auto racing, football, gymnastics, ice hockey, swimming, soccer, boxing, triathlon, beach volleyball, Alpine skiing, martial arts, wrestling, wheelchair racing, figure skating, and bowling, thus continuing the decades-long marketing strategy of associating an ultra-processed food with exercise. The use of the word “champion” also promotes hope of sporting as well as physical excellence in those who consumer this cereal. For those addicted to food, the idea of eating a sugar-filled cereal as a means of exercising their bodies directly targets the denial so common in the disease. As food addiction expert Phil Werdell, who has treated over 5,000 late-stage food addicts, notes, “a large percentage of those who are overweight or obese, as well as those with diabetes, heart disease, and some cancers, cannot be accurately diagnosed or effectively treated without attending to the issue of food addiction denial” (Werdell 2022, 3). In his book, he outlines three types of denial: cognitive, biochemical, and social or institutional, which stand in the way of food addiction treatment. Cognitive denial takes place at the level of reasoning; biochemical denial takes place at the physical level of craving; and social or institutional denial involves those directly related to food supply. It is not difficult to include food advertisers in the social or institutional type of denial, which, as reflected by the name, is present in society and institutions. In the case of the Wheaties commercials, the association with exercise, athletics, health, and even dieting

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portrayed within promote denial of the consequences of eating an ultraprocessed food in which sugar is the second ingredient, which is at the core of “Happy Eating” in the food advertising industry. The promotion of “the whole kernel of wheat” as a health benefit is also questionable. A discussion of this will be outlined in the following chapter.

“EATING EXERCISES” A 2022 Häagen-Dazs commercial incorporates the exercise theme in a paradoxical way to make fun of new age culture. The commercial opens with a man named Mr. Proctor, who is described as a Food Psychologist asking viewers if they wish they could be happier and tells them that “Sensual Eating” can make that happen as the camera cuts to book of the same title with two containers of ice cream next to it (Rough 2020). In the background, a group of people dressed in exercise clothes are holding spoons with one hand and ice cream with the other as they lift their spoons in unison chanting, “Pleasure is the path to joy” before a woman named Martha May, who is identified as a “Sensologist” tells viewers to “Harness the intense pleasure of Häagen-Dazs through simple eating exercises carefully designed to deepen your appreciation. Sensual eating can open your inner cage” (Rough 2020). As she is speaking, images of people exercising with spoons and ice-cream containers are shown. First is a man on the ground with his face next to an ice-cream container lifting the spoon. He appears to be exerting himself. The camera zooms out to a shot is him with two other people on incline benches with their feet raised, with the ice cream nearby and spoons in their hands. The next “exercise” is of four people, two each with one of the pair wrapping arms around the seated one as the one seated attempts to reach a container of ice cream. The commercial ends with a shot of the ice cream floating in a pool and the group chanting, “Pleasure is the path to joy” (Rough 2020). Though the focus of the commercial appears to be about ridiculing new age culture and perhaps even fitness center retreat houses, the images of people exercising with spoons and containers of ice cream are not only unusual but also epitomize messages about exercise being a means of managing weight and negating unhealthy eating habits. Though many are powerfully attracted to the idea that exercise can compensate for unhealthy eating, research has proven otherwise (Ding, et al. 2022). For those with obesity who are addicted to food, the idea of exercising can be overwhelming. However, the idea of including ice cream in the activity has the potential to make the activity less daunting and perhaps even attractive, thus, though not effective, contributing to addictive eating as well as food addiction denial.

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“HIGH PROTEIN. LOW SUGAR. GREAT TASTE” Protein bars are another product which regularly includes the exercise theme in advertisements. A 1999 commercial for PowerBar is an example of this. The commercial opens with cheering crowd as a runner in first place approaches the finish line. There is dramatic music and fast breathing sounds as the runner turns to look behind him to see how far away his nearest competitor is. As he continues, the runner begins to stumble and eventually falls on the ground just short of the finish line. Surprised and disappointed sounds emanate from the crowd. As the runner is shown on the ground with the crowd muttering, “Oh no,” the words “Don’t Bonk” appear above him before there is a cut to a PowerBar (Muchmore 2021). The last shot is of another runner crossing the finish line while the first runner is still on the ground. The term “bonk” refers to a condition in which athletes experience low blood sugar, fuzziness, and shakiness. A more recent commercial for this product opens with a man fishing on a beach and then cuts to another man running on the same beach. The runner appears tired and stops to eat a PowerBar. After that, he smiles and appears energetic. He runs by the man who is fishing who is clearly struggling to catch a fish. The runner lifts his finger in the air to tell the man to wait a minute as the runner jogs into the water, wrestles with a fish, and carries it back to the man who is fishing. Both are happy. As the runner continues on, an announcer says, “PowerBar. Don’t get caught without one” (Aaron Thomas Media 2013). Similarly, a 2019 commercial for Pure Protein Bar opens with a shot of a gym bag which includes a water bottle, ear buds, sunglasses, and a towel. A hand puts a Pure Protein Bar in the bag as a male announcer says, “Make fitness routine with Pure Protein,” after which the camera cuts to a shot of a woman at a gym exercising, while a female announcers says, “High protein”; then the camera cuts to a healthcare worker holding a bandage before a young girl seated on the table, while the female announcer says, “Low sugar” as the camera cuts to a woman in a car eating a Pure Protein Bar as the female announcer says, “Tastes great” (Pure Protein 2019). The male announcer then says, “High protein. Low sugar. So good” as the camera cuts to a man running up a large staircase, then to a father in the laundry room of his home with a baby, then to a man sitting in an office eating a Pure Protein Bar (Pure Protein 2019). After this, the camera cuts to a woman working in a coffee shop, then a woman exercising, then a woman sitting with a dog eating a birthday cake–flavored Pure Protein Bar as the female announcer says, “High protein. Low sugar. Mmm birthday cake” (Pure Protein 2019). The final shot is of the protein bar with “20 g protein” and “2 g sugar” underneath while the male announcer says, “Pure Protein. The best combination for every fitness routine” (Pure Protein 2019).

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An ad for Extend Nutrition Bars takes its health claims a step further. The commercial opens with an African American woman, who is shown in various stages of exercising at the gym. She says, “I used to let my diabetes rule my life. Now, I’m stronger than that. More determined. I’ll never let it slow me down again” (Extend Nutrition Bars 2018). The woman is then shown in the locker room reaching for a nutrition bar. She says, Now, my day begins. I need something that tastes great, curbs my hunger, and provides longer lasting energy without spikes. Extend Bars are scientifically developed to control blood sugar for up to six to nine hours outperforming typical nutrition bars. Take back control with Extend. (Extend Nutrition Bars 2018)

The final shot is of four boxes of the bars with three store logos. Another ad takes the idea of exercise and adds a twist to it by observing a young man while he jogs through a city. The ad begins with three middleaged women sitting at a table talking to each other as they drink coffee. Abruptly, one of the women stops talking as she looks across the street to see a fit young man running in place as he waits to cross the street. The woman says, “Oh woah. What do we have here?” as the other two look at the man (thinkThin 2014). Another one says, “Good morning!” as he crosses the street and the third says, “He’s coming this way” as the man jogs near them (thinkThin 2014). He stops at the table next to him to stretch out while the women watch, clearly mesmerized by his physic. The man notices them and says, “Hi, Mrs. Adams. Hey say hi to Brian for me. Okay bye” as the women sit there surprised while a female announcer says, “There are lots of things to feel guilty about. Thinkthin isn’t one of them. Twenty grams of protein, zero grams sugar, zero guilt” while the words “thinkPositive” appear underneath an image of the bar. “GLORIFIED CANDY BARS?” In addition to associating exercise with ultra-processed foods, protein and nutrition bar manufacturers use specific packaging, names, and images to present their products as a healthy part of self-care routines or meal replacements for those on the go. According to a recent article in The New York Times, protein bars are more popular than ever with expectations of reaching over $2 billion in sales at the end of 2026 (Blum 2023). Nutrition experts, however, do not believe protein bars are healthy. Though most agree that protein is healthy, one expert notes most Americans eat enough protein in their diets while others are concerned with the high sugar content. As Hannah Cutting-Jones, a food historian and director of the Food Studies Program at the University of Oregon, notes, “By and large, they’re

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highly processed, high in sugar and salt—kind of a ‘Frankenfood’,” while Eric Rimm, a professor of epidemiology and nutrition at the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health, agreed: “Many protein bars are really just ‘candy bars with a lot more protein’” (Blum 2023). Additionally, “adding another punch of protein into your diet—particularly when it comes with a lot of added sugar—is not going to make you healthier” (Blum 2023). Instead, nutrition experts suggest that people choose healthier snacks “like grapes, a banana, an apple or yogurt with berries,” “a handful of nuts,” or “tuna or hard-boiled eggs, which are high in protein but not processed” (Blum 2023). Taking the unhealthiness of protein bars into consideration, it becomes clear about the need for these ultra-processed food manufacturers to use the exercise theme in their advertisements. When considering the previously mentioned research (Castonguay 2015; Folta, Goldberg, et  al. 2006), it becomes clear about the need for protein bar manufacturers to employ active images using the exercise theme in order to convince consumers about the healthiness of their products. For those addicted to food, these advertisements extolling the healthiness of “glorified candy bars” provides a ready-made excuse to binge on them as well as a deep emotional attachment to the product and a means of seeking emotional change, both of which are indicators of food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11).

“HEALTHY REAL HYDRATION” A chapter about the exercise theme in ultra-processed foods would not be complete without a mention of sports drinks, which include perhaps the most well-known Gatorade. Though known widely as a drink for athletes and shown on sidelines of major-league sports games, Gatorade continues to expand its market to health-conscious consumers. The recent introduction of Gatorade Fit is evidence of this. A 2022 commercial for the product opens with a shot of the Gatorade Fit bottle and a female announcer saying, “Introducing Gatorade Fit” (AD ARCHIVES Gatorade Fit 2022). The camera cuts to a shot of a man on an exercise bike in a city apartment with windows through which views of a city are shown. He is pedaling as the female announcer says, “Fitness starts from the inside out” (AD ARCHIVES Gatorade Fit 2022). Before she finishes her sentence, the camera cuts to an African American woman with obesity who is breathing deeply in a yoga pose. The female announcer continues, and there is a shot of a thin white woman running. The announcer says, “Get healthy, real hydration with no added sugar, artificial sweeteners, or added colors,” as each of the three is shown drinking Gatorade (AD ARCHIVES Gatorade Fit 2022). The announcer finishes with,

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“Gatorade Fit. Healthy, real hydration” as four flavors of the product are shown (AD ARCHIVES Gatorade Fit 2022). It’s worth noting that there were 442 comments from this commercial posted on YouTube by AD ARCHIVES, many of which noted the body size of the African American woman as well as the unhealthiness of the product. Following are several of these comments using the pseudonyms of people posting at the site: • “As a black man, thank you for not including us in this. I’m embarrassed to even say I saw this monstrosity of a commercial,” M3ttle Heart. • “One person riding a stationary bike, another is running and another is about 300 pounds laying around lifting a leg up while wearing Spandex. The message: Drink Gatorade Fit, even if your grossly obese,” S.M. • “To all the fit and healthy black women reading this comment, please stay away from this drink unless you want to end up looking like the black woman in this commercial,” Lety0007. • “Half a gram of gray or white sea salt dissolved in a half gallon of water does the same job without all the sugar, but hey you didn’t hear that from me,” Ian Billings. • “Since you consider sugar and fatty food addicts as fit, might as well feature cigarette addicts and cocaine addicts as well,” Artem Bless. • “Really nice representation of black women, Gatorade. What’s your agenda putting her image up against a perfectly fit white male and white female???” Monty Python. • “I love the representation, but can my culture be the one represented the next time as athletic looking? As anyone who’s ever researched the history of blacks on television and film knows, it’s been often that we have been depicted as the big overweight help compared to the fit and beautiful people of the larger demographic,” Yusuf Johnson. The use of a woman with obesity in this commercial caused a backlash for Gatorade. The African American woman is Jessamyn Stanley, a yoga teacher, body positivity advocate, and writer. In the UK version of Glamour magazine, a plus-size woman addressed her feelings about the backlash of using a woman with obesity. She noted that people “love to share their hatred of obese people” and that “it’s apparently still OK to shame us without a second thought. Yet when we do exercise, people continue to berate and belittle and laugh at us. We can’t ever win” (Partington 2023). Partington says that for years she avoided exercise because, [I]n my mind, I hated the idea of it and it was easier to be the fat person society thought I was. But over the last few years, I’ve overcome my fears and have

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been incredibly lucky—and privileged—to seek out and work with two incredible female PTs, both with a holistic approach to exercise. (2023)

It’s worth noting that Partington’s experience reflects many of those food addicts with obesity. In addition to the societal belittlement oftentimes directed at those addicted to food, many also feel a deep shame within themselves for not being able to stop eating, even though they want to. As noted by one food addict when describing her inability to stop eating, Why can’t I stop eating? It was a question I had asked myself each day for the last twenty-three years as I struggled desperately to lose weight. No matter what I did, it didn’t seem to help. Overwhelming physical cravings dominated my life. I was powerless to stop eating and I hated myself for it. (Danowski and Lazaro 2000, xiii)

In the commercial itself, the idea of getting “healthy, real hydration with no added sugar, artificial sweeteners, or added colors” can be interpreted by some food addicts as meaning that if they drink Gatorade, they will be healthy. However, it’s worth noting that the second ingredient behind water in Gatorade Fit is juice concentrate, while the third is natural flavorings. The NOVA classification system includes both energy and fruit drinks in the definition of ultra-processed foods, while the term “natural flavorings” is a loose term to describe anything extracted or distilled from plants or animals, thus creating concerns about the healthiness of Gatorade Fit. The use of the exercise theme in ultra-processed food commercials is an important tool used by marketers to associate healthy physical activity with unhealthy foods. As evidenced by the commercials and research described in this chapter, the use of exercise or activity in an advertisement results in consumers believing the product is healthier than it actually is. Taking this a step further, associating an ultra-processed food with sports teams or events adds an even greater appearance of health to the products. After all, who can provide a healthier association than someone who earns their living by doing physical activity and/or an Olympic medal winner? In the next chapter the practice of advertising ultra-processed foods as a means of improving health will be examined.

Chapter 7

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“. . . just feel that muscle!” is the headline of a 1950s-era print ad for dextrose (Almay 2023). In the ad, a young girl with blond braided hair wearing a red dress with white polka dots is shown next to a young boy dressed in brown shorts and a yellow striped shirt. The boy is making a muscle as the girl is touching it. Below the headline is a block of text which is seven paragraphs long. The text begins with, “Hercules never flexed a muscle with greater pride than do boastful boys in their first awareness of bulging biceps” (Almay 2023). The text goes on to say that muscle size and strength don’t matter without energy, then compares this to an automobile and gasoline, then in the next paragraph notes that dextrose is the fuel for the human body which doctors often call calling a “natural sugar” and the main source of energy and strength (Almay 2023). The text goes on to discuss the production of the dextrose “from golden American corn” as “a modern achievement” which results in sugar that is “pure white, crystalline, sweet and cooling to the taste” not available for direct sale to consumers but only found in “fine candies, ice cream, cakes, crackers, soft drinks, canned fruits, and fruit juices, jams, and jellies—‘rich in dextrose’” (Almay 2023). Consumers are encouraged to look for dextrose on packaging as to assure food energy at no added cost and to think of dextrose when they think of energy because it’s energy from food in a pure form (Almay 2023). The ad, which is sponsored by the Corn Products Refining Company, a producer of dextrose, includes at the bottom a definition of dextrose, an endorsement from the U.S. Army which chose dextrose to provide food energy in Field Ration K to sustain men at war and a note about the product being all American with corn from American famers that was refined in American factories and distributed by American companies (Almay 2023). 103

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“THE ENERGY OF SUNSHINE” A similar advertisement in the series features a father measuring his son’s height with the text discussing the physical and emotional changes of youth transforming into maturity noting how proper nutrition can help. The text also discusses a need for additional energy during rapid growth periods noting that “dextrose helps always to maintain health, sustain activity, fight fatigue” and adding cereal and “better breads” to the list of products containing dextrose (Almay 2023). Still another advertisement in this series contains the headline “Life begins on dextrose sugar” and features a large image of a stork, and smaller ones of a baby and various food items that can be fed to the baby (Almay 2023). The text begins with saying a baby is the embodiment of the life and that “life is expressed in terms of movement,” noting that dextrose is the main fuel for life found in baby formulas (Almay 2023). There is also a strong association with sunlight in this ad noting that “The sun is the source of all energy. The energy of sunshine is crystalized in dextrose sugar” at the top of the ad while at the bottom consumers are encouraged to “keep the energy of sunshine” in their diets by demanding products containing dextrose (Almay 2023). It’s worth noting that in all these advertisements a concerted effort is made to connect an ultra-processed ingredient with purity, nature, and energy, which are exactly the opposite characteristics of the product advertised. Though it can be used by doctors to raise low blood sugar, in general, eating too much can result in weight gain, depression, heart disease, diabetes, and low energy (Fletcher 2018). Additionally, though it’s made from corn, dextrose is manufactured, not a natural food that is “crystalized” by the sun, which has no nutritional value, and can cause inflammation (Chuan, et  al. 2020). For those addicted to food, dextrose acts as trigger which ignites physical cravings for more and more food, thus resulting in repeated binge episodes as well as depression, weight gain, and low energy due to overconsumption (Food Addiction Institute 2022). The practice of marketing it as providing energy, strength, health, and equating it with purity and sunshine can create a deep emotional attachment to the foods mentioned in the advertisement while also causing even those not addicted to seek the product to relieve emotional discomfort as means to feel “sunny” and strong, both of which are indicators of food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11). “FOOD MARKETING TRICKS” In a blog titled “Food Marketing Tricks” at the Independent Health Foundation’s website, a dietician discusses five tricks used by food manufacturers in

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their advertising to make products seem healthier noting that “Food companies are tricking people into thinking they know how to eat healthy by adding a few words to their packaging and revamping their ads” (Healthy Options 2023). The first of these is the use of the words “All natural” which is not regulated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) about the contents of the food meaning that “Foods with refined grains, high fructose corn syrup, hydrogenated oils, and artificial sweeteners can be labeled as all natural” (Healthy Options 2023). The second trick outlined in the blog is the use of the words “sugar free or no sugar added” as a way of covering up the use of artificial sugars which contain calories and can cause digestive issues. The third trick centers on the concepts of whole wheat or wheat, multigrain or whole grain. Use of the words “wheat” or “multigrain” includes flours made from these ingredients which are not any healthier than white flour since they, too, are “processed and stripped of the nutrients” (Healthy Options 2023). As outlined in the blog, whole wheat and whole grains are healthy since they use the entire kernel. The fourth trick involves labeling products as fat-free, noting that with the exception of dairy products more often, the fat-free version of a product and the regular version have about the same or close to the same amount of calories. The catch is fat free versions have extra sugars and other chemicals in them to make them taste better. (Healthy Options 2023)

The final trick outlined is the claim that a product includes real fruit. In reality, if the ingredients list includes fruit juice concentrate or not from concentrate, the fruit used is processed through pasteurization or concentrating that results in the destruction of vitamins and minerals leaving behind only “pure sugar” (Healthy Options 2023). As noted in the article, eating whole fruit is healthier. “REAL STUFF” A 2016 Trix cereal commercial puts a twist on the “all natural” trick described in the blog, opening with a rabbit who appears to be moving his mouth. He says, “Hi, I’m the honorary real Trix rabbit” before he goes hopping off to stand in front of four boxes of General Mills cereal, which include Cocoa Puffs, Reese’s Puffs, Cinnamon Toast Crunch, and Honey Nut Cheerios (General Mills TV Spot 2016). On both sides of him are ingredients related to the cereals including cocoa powder, a hunk of chocolate, and honey. He then says, “General Mills wants me to let you know that we use real stuff like honey, cinnamon, and cocoa to make these cereals tasty and these last for awesome colors,” at which point a close-up of purple carrots and blueberries

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is shown (General Mills TV Spot 2016). Next is a close-up of the bunny with the cereal boxes in the background as he continues, “That means no artificial flavors or colors. Nice” The rabbit then talks about the moment he’s been waiting for where he gets to eat the Trix cereal. Before he can do that the animated Trix rabbit comes in and tells him “Silly real Trix rabbit, Trix are still for kids” as the real rabbit hopes off and the animated rabbit says, “Rookie mistake” (General Mills TV Spot 2016). The ingredients in Cocoa Puffs are as follows: whole grain corn, sugar, corn meal, corn syrup, cocoa processed with alkali, canola oil, fructose, salt, caramel color, refiner’s syrup, baking soda, natural flavor. The ingredients in Reese’s Puffs include: whole grain corn, sugar, Reese’s Peanut Butter (peanuts, sugar, monoglycerides, peanut oil, salt, molasses, corn starch), dextrose, corn meal, corn syrup, canola oil, salt, Hershey’s Cocoa, caramel color, trisodium phosphate, natural flavor, vitamin E. The ingredients in Cinnamon Toast Crunch are: whole grain wheat, sugar, rice flour, canola and/ or sunflower oil, fructose, maltodextrin, dextrose, salt, cinnamon, trisodium phosphate, soy lecithin, caramel color, BHT. The ingredients in Honey Nut Cheerios are as follows: whole grain oats, sugar, oat bran, corn starch, honey, brown sugar syrup, salt, tripotassium phosphate, canola oil, natural almond flavor. Vitamin E (mixed tocopherols) added to preserve freshness, vitamins, and minerals: calcium carbonate, zinc and iron (mineral nutrients), vitamin C (sodium ascorbate), A B vitamin (niacinamide), vitamin B6 (pyridoxine hydrochloride), vitamin B2 (riboflavin), vitamin B1 (thiamin mononitrate), vitamin A (palmitate), A B vitamin (folic acid), vitamin B12, and vitamin D3. It’s worth noting that all the cereals shown include sugar as the second ingredient followed by whole grain wheat or corn. All also include additional types of sugars. In Cocoa Puffs, corn syrup, fructose, and refiner’s syrup (made from cane or beet sugar) are included, while Reese’s Puffs lists molasses, dextrose, and corn syrup as additional sugars. In Cinnamon Toast Crunch additional sugars include fructose, maltodextrin, and dextrose, while Honey Nut Cheerios contains honey and brown sugar syrup. As a reminder, FDA regulations require ingredient lists in a descending format meaning that they appear with the largest amount used as first. This being the case, the ingredients highlighted by the “Real Trix Rabbit”—“honey, cinnamon, and cocoa”—are included in much lesser amounts than sugar, which is listed as second in all cereals. For example, honey is listed as the fifth ingredient in Honey Nut Cheerios, cinnamon as the ninth in Cinnamon Toast Crunch, and cocoa processed with alkali (a chemical that neutralizes acidic ingredients) as the fifth in Cocoa Puffs. Though in the advertisement, these real ingredients were included, the actual cereals contain very little of this “real stuff,” the result of which is to create an appearance of healthy food when, in fact, these products are ultra-processed and will trigger a binge in those addicted

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to food (Food Addiction Institute 2022) and, in many cases, overconsumption by those who have a preference for sweetness, resulting in a deep emotional attachment to these so-called healthy products, an indicator of food addiction behavior (Danowski 2019, 11).

“ALL NATURAL” A 1996 Breyers Ice Cream commercial uses a child to illustrate the “all natural” marketing trick while at the same time using the words in the name of the product. In this commercial, a female child is shown seated at a table in the kitchen. To left of the screen is a half-gallon of Breyers Ice Cream. In front of her is a bowl of ice cream. She is holding a round container of ice cream and attempting to read the ingredients of that ice cream as a female announcer asks, “Do you know what’s in your ice cream?” (Ewjxm 2019). The child continues trying to pronounce the ingredients in the ice cream, the words appear below her “Polysorbate 80” and “Diglycerides” as her face is filled with confusion as the female announcer says, “Now check out Breyers all natural” (Ewjxm 2019). The child then reads the ingredients in Breyers, which she is easily able to pronounce “Milk, strawberries, sugar, and cream” as the camera cuts to a shot of the ice-cream container with the words “Breyers All Natural Ice Cream, Taste, Not Technology” as the female announcer reads the same words (Ewjxm 2019). More recently, a 2022 commercial for Breyers Ice Cream opens with a close-up of Breyers “Natural Vanilla” ice cream with the words, “My mom says,” at the top of the screen as a child says, “My mom says that Breyers is made with real milk” (Breyers 2022). As she begins speaking, there is a shot of an African American female child and a White female child sitting at a picnic bench surrounded by green grass, a fence, and two barns in the background. The African American child lifts the bowl of ice cream to her ear and says, “I think I can hear the mooing” as they both laugh and the camera cuts to a close-up of the ice cream with a scoop running through it as a female announcer says, “Breyers Natural Vanilla is made with 100% Grade A milk and cream and only sustainably farmed vanilla” (Breyers 2022). The final shot is of five cartons of Breyers ice cream on a picnic table with the two barns and now a third in the background and the words, “Better Starts with Breyers” (Breyers 2022). Obviously, the message in the first one is that if a child can pronounce the ingredients, then the ice cream is “all natural” and therefore can be perceived as being a “healthy” ice cream despite the inclusion of sugar and the processing of the product while in the second commercial the focus is on the “natural” milk and vanilla as evidenced by the farm setting. However, while there

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may be limited ingredients in the vanilla flavored ice cream, a nutritional review of the company’s other flavors notes that Breyers ice cream contains significant amounts of unhealthy ingredients, such as artificial colorings, flavorings, and sweeteners. Additionally, many of the flavors contain high amounts of sugar, which can lead to weight gain and increased risk of chronic diseases. Finally, the high fat content can increase the risk of cardiovascular disease. (Sharer 2023)

For those addicted to food, the inclusion of sugar would result in triggering a binge (Food Addiction Institute 2022) while the emotional appeal of soft, creamy ice cream can appear to promise relief from emotional discomfort and deep emotional attachment to the product, both of which are indicators of food addiction behavior (Danowski 2019, 11). Consider for a second the many depictions of women and men eating ice cream to soothe upset feelings. One of the most well-known of these is evidenced by a quote from the 2004 moving Bridget Jones: The Edge of Reason, where Bridget says, “Am enjoying a relationship with two men simultaneously. The first is called Ben, the other, Jerry. Number of current boyfriends: zero” (Kidron). A few other examples of this include Legally Blonde, Miss Congeniality, the remake of The Nutty Professor, Snatched, and Jurassic Park. This phenomenon is not limited to films and has also be seen in numerous television shows, including The Big Bang Theory, Buffy The Vampire Slayer, Frasier, Friends, Gilmore Girls, Lois & Clark, Mike & Molly, Pretty Little Liars, and What I Like About You as well as in the comic strip Cathy and even a 2014 Comcast/Infinity commercial where a woman who has just switched to a satellite service where she was mistreated sits in bed eating ice cream while she talks with someone from Comcast. It’s also worth noting that Ben & Jerry’s named one of their ice-cream flavors Chocolate Therapy and a Canadian restaurant, Milestones has an ice-cream desert called “Break Up Tub!” “NO SUGAR ADDED” A 2022 animated commercial for Lily’s Sweets Salted Almond Milk Chocolate Style Bar uses the second “no sugar added” marketing trick while at the same time commiserating with consumers about the unhealthiness of sugar. The commercial begins with an animated scene in shades of purple that includes flowers, a butterfly, and in the center of the screen a large flower with the chocolate bar placed in it. A female announcer says, “Lily’s creamy chocolate with crunchy almonds has no sugar added” as the butterfly flies by various flowers, some of which contain pieces of Lily’s chocolate (Lily’s 2022). The announcer continues, “because you don’t need more sugar to

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make life sweet. Lily’s makes life sweeter” as the butterfly is shown sucking the nectar out of a flower near a candy bar. Though animated and only fifteen seconds, this commercial uses the butterfly and the “blossoming” flowers which contain candy bars to give the appearance of being natural with no sugar added. Though sugar is not listed in the ingredients on the label, Lily’s contains both erythritol and stevia to provide sweetness while also including cocoa butter and milk fat. Erythritol is an artificial sweetener, which in its natural state comes from fruits and vegetables. When it is used as a sweetener, the levels are usually “1,000-fold greater than levels found naturally in foods” (National Institutes of Health 2023). Recent research funded by the National Institutes of Health “suggest that consuming erythritol can increase blood clot formation. This, in turn, could increase the risk of heart attack or stroke” (2023). For those addicted to food, the “1,000-fold greater levels” of sweetness as well as the additional of milk fat have the possibly to trigger a binge (Food Addiction Institute 2022) in addition to increased health dangers for those who eat products with erythritol in them. Advertising the product as having no sugar added can also contribute to food addiction denial, thus creating a deep emotional attachment of the product as well as a mean of relieving the emotional discomfort of guilt about overeating an unhealthy product, both of which are indicators of food addiction behavior (Danowski 2019, 11).

“ADULTING SUCKS” Another animated commercial features the “no sugar added” marketing trick. The commercial for no-sugar-added Heinz Ketchup begins with a book titled Once Upon a Time that opens to reveal a woman who sings about being a child eating spaghetti with ketchup and wishing she could be a grown-up. She is shown first as a child eating with her parents and then as an adult standing in the rain going into her apartment where she sings, “Adulting sucks” (Heinz 2022). She talks about how “you have to eat healthy all the time but fortunately ketchup can be no sugar added Heinz” and then goes on to talk about how “so much of life gives her pause” mentioning plastic bags and succulent seeds that die as well as how “eating well takes so much willpower and everything is made out of cauliflower” (Heinz 2022). She goes on to say that as she “searches for a Tupperware lid” this is not what she “dreamed of as a kid” then saying again “adulting sucks” because “it turns out that you can’t just eat sweets all the time. Fortunately, your ketchup can be no sugar added Heinz” and that with her “tasty ketchup, life’s not so bad” as the last shot is of her standing on a ketchup bottle beneath an arc of ketchup surrounded by other no-sugar-added products, and anthropomorphized animals and appliances.

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Sucralose is included in the list of ingredients in no-sugar-added Heinz Ketchup. Sucralose is a chemically altered form of sugar which replaces three hydrogen-oxygen groups with three chlorine atoms to produce a substance that is 600 times sweeter than sugar without any calories. In a recent article at the Time magazine website, Dr. Robert Lustig, retired Professor of Pediatrics and Director of the Weight Assessment for Teen and Child Health at University of California San Francisco, likens artificial sweeteners to methadone, the substance used to wean heroin addicts off their addictive drug. He says, artificial sweeteners “are better than sugar but the goal is to use them as a method of getting off sweeteners, and not as a substitute for sugar” (Park 2023). The idea of complaining about being an adult and using ketchup to relieve emotional discomfort/seek emotional change and the deep emotional attachment to the product portrayed indicate food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11).

“YES YOU CRAN” Perhaps one of the most well-known no-sugar-added commercials comes from Ocean Spray Cranberry Juice. A 2007 commercial opens with two farmers: one older and the other younger. They are standing in cranberries which come up almost to their waists. The older of the two is holding a container of Ocean Spray Cranberry Juice, while the younger one is holding a bag of sugar. The older one says, “Some people don’t like any added sugar in their juice” then points to the younger one, who says, “That’s why we make Ocean Spray 100% juice,” after which the older man says, “It has plenty of natural goodness but there’s no added sugar so say ‘hello’ to 100% juice”; then the younger man says, “And goodbye to added sugar” as he dumps the bag of sugar into the cranberries (Ad Forum 2007). The older man looks at him and says, “I thought we weren’t adding any sugar,” at which point the younger man looks confused and says, “Oh. Okay. Nobody use these cranberries over here,” while the older man rolls his eyes before the final shot of three containers of cranberry juice in a wooden box surrounded by fresh cranberries with the words “Straight from the bog” on it are shown (Ad Forum 2007). A commercial shown several years later features the farmers in a similar field standing next to a wooden fruit stand which holds colorful fruit with many apples and six containers of Ocean Spray juices. The commercial begins with the older farmer saying, “Hello! We’re Ocean Spray farmers here at our harvest gathering all of our tasty ruby red cranberries and these are our 100% juices with no added sugar” as the camera cuts to a close-up of the juices with the words, “Juice is a blend of fruit juices from concentrate” (Ads Seen On TV 2018). The younger man next says, “We blend our crisp,

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refreshing cranberries with the ripe, sweet taste of other fruits,” while the older man continues, “Just one glass equals one of your five a day” as the younger man says, “It tastes like a fruit stand in every carton” as he removes a container of juice and all the fruit falls off the stand and into the cranberries (Ads Seen On TV 2018). He then says he’s “Just demonstrating how we blend the fruits,” after which the older man encourages viewers to “Try all of our tasty Ocean Spray 100% juices with no added sugar” before the words, “Good taste. From a good place” appear at the bottom of the screen (Ads Seen On TV 2018). It’s worth noting that the two “farmers” in the commercial are actually actors Henry Strozier, seventy-one, and Justin Hagan, thirty-eight, who won their parts over many other actors. Equally noteworthy is the inclusion of the note about the juices being from concentrate, which is the reason fruit juices are included in the list of ultra-processed foods. Fruit juice concentrate is made by removing the pulp and skin and then heating the fruit to remove the water, a process which, according to Caroline West Passerrello, a registered dietitian nutritionist and a spokesperson for the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, causes the fruit to retain “the sugar and calories” while losing “the volume, fiber and vitamin C” (Jacewicz 2017). Due to the lack of fiber to slow down absorption, blood sugar levels spike faster than those from whole fruit, resulting in what really is an added sugar similar to high-fructose corn syrup according to Vasanti Malik, a research scientist in the Department of Nutrition at the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health (Jacewicz 2017). While this spike can cause normal eaters to crave more sweet-tasting foods, for those addicted to food, fruit juice concentrate will trigger cravings, thus resulting in a binge. A more recent commercial for Ocean Spray begins with a woman and her daughter walking through a mall. The daughter excitedly points out that there is a clown nearby who is greeting children as the mother, who is carrying a container of Ocean Spray Diet Cranberry Juice, panics and begins to guzzle the juice. She then tells herself, “If Ocean Spray can make a juice with only one gram of sugar and still keep all of that powerful flavor then I cran do anything like cran overcome my fear of clowns” (Ocean Spray 2023). As she is speaking, text on the screen reads, “1 gram of sugar per serving” (Ocean Spray 2023). After she finishes speaking, she is shown in front of the clown who greets her. She screams and then uses her feet to kick the clown, who falls to the ground as the words, “Yes You Cran” appear on the screen (Ocean Spray 2023). The final shot is of a row of juice with a hand removing one and the words in the open spot, “What will you do with all that power?” (Ocean Spray 2023). Following this commercial, there were others with similar themes about “power flavors” and “cranfidence to win” which positioned the juice as the solution to conquering difficulties.

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Of note from the “clown” commercial is the fact that the woman is walking around the mall with a very large container of juice, from which she takes large gulps. Not only does this appear awkward in the commercial itself, but it also mimics a binge many food addicts can identify with. Since the woman is thin and obviously physically fit as evidenced by her lifting her feet up high to kick the clown with karate-like actions, it is easy to see how food addiction denial may lead those afflicted to believe drinking this juice does not “count” as actually bingeing on sugar-filled foods while they experience the sugar high from the packed sweetness of the fruit juice concentrate. A sugar high which results in a, though brief, emotional change. The idea that drinking juice has the possibility to help overcome fears, problems, and societal issues resulting in emotional change can also cause an unhealthy emotional attachment to the product, both indicators of food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11).

“WHOLE WHEAT” An example of the third marketing trick, the use of terms “wheat” or “grain” advertised to include processed flours, is shown in a 2014 commercial for Wheat Thins. In the commercial, a woman walks into the kitchen as her husband is closing a door he’s made in the floor. She asks him what it is. He says, “It’s a trap door to keep people from taking my delicious whole grain Wheat Thins,” after which he looks at the box of Wheat Thins on the counter, says, “Mmmm,” and, as he reaches for them, falls through the trap door (Wheat Thins 2014). The woman says, “I’ll get the ladder” as she takes the box with her (Wheat Thins 2014). The camera cuts to a yellow background with the words “Must Have” and then to a shot of three boxes of Wheat Thins with the words, “100% Whole Grain Crunch” (Wheat Thins 2014). The use of the words “whole wheat” can also be seen in a 2017 commercial for Wheat Thins. A female announcer opens by speaking as a box of Wheat Thins is shown being poured. She says, “This is Wheat Thins. The original whole grain one. The snack you always loved one. The how do you sit on these things one” (Wheat Thins 2017). While she speakers there is a shot first of a couple on a couch watching television and eating the cracker as one of them takes all the blanket and, in the next shot, a mother is shown in her daughter’s dorm room falling off a bean bag type chair while holding a tray with crackers on it. The announcer continues, “Real life snacks baked delicious. Wheat Thins and Good Thins. Good gets real” (Wheat Thins 2017). While both commercials make reference to whole grains, the package lists whole grain wheat flour as the first ingredient followed by canola oil, sugar, cornstarch, malt syrup (from corn and barley), salt, refiner’s syrup, leavening (calcium phosphate and baking soda).

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As noted in the Marketing Tricks article, the term “whole wheat” is used to represent the entire wheat kernel which is less processed than those products listing only wheat since this term includes wheat flour which is “processed and stripped of the nutrients.” In the Wheat Thins ingredient list, the term “whole grain wheat flour” is used. By its very nature, the process of making flour, even if the “whole wheat” is used, strips the grain of its nutrients; therefore, even though the term “whole grain wheat flour” may be accurate, the nutrients associated with “whole wheat” are not present in the product since it has been processed into flour. In an article at the Is It Bad For You (IIBFY) website, Wheat Thins is given a grade of D-, noting that the product is “not good for the overall wellness of the body” due to flour being “stripped of the bran and germ that make it truly nutritious” and concluding that “Wheat Thins, while convenient, and made of some whole grain, do not present much in terms of actual nutrition” (IIBFY 2016). The following long-term side effects of eating this product are listed at the website “cancer/tumors, diabetes, high cholesterol, endocrine disruption, heart disease, hypertension, inflammation, thyroid complications, reproductive disorders, and hormonal complications” (IIBFY 2016). In line with this, the use of the word “thin” in the name of the product is an interesting marketing strategy. While an argument can be made that the word reflects the thinness of the cracker, it’s possible the word is used to reflect the hidden promise of both health and weight loss. For those with obesity, the word “thin” reflects not only a goal to achieve but the struggle of not being able to obtain and/or maintain a thin body size. A cracker named after their most cherished goal could be mistaken for being a solution to their struggle with wanting to eat unhealthy food yet lose weight at the same time. In other words, use of the word “thin” has the possibility to make those who struggle with weight loss believe this product can assist them in their efforts. For those addicted to food, using the word “thin” speaks directly to the denial they struggle with. In a food addict’s mind, if the product is “thin” then it’s okay to eat a few of them, which due to the physical craving cycle will, many times, turn into eating the entire box (Food Addiction Institute 2022). With sugar as the third ingredient, the cycle of craving will be triggered for those addicted to food, making it nearly impossible for them to stop eating until the entire box is gone. It’s also worth noting that actress Sandy Duncan, who is known for her svelte figure even playing the lead role in Peter Pan on Broadway, was the spokesperson for Wheat Thins from the mid-1970s through the 1980s. Her association with the product also reinforces the perception that Wheat Thins can aid in weight loss, allowing consumers to believe that if they eat this product, they will be thin like Sandy Duncan. This being the case, it’s not difficult to see how those addicted to food can develop a deep emotional attachment to this product using it to relieve the emotional discomfort resulting from what

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they believe to be a lack of willpower to maintain a normal body size, both indicators of food addiction behavior (Danowski 2019, 11). Add to this the fact that over the last decade, wheat along with other grains has been brought into the public light as contributing to many health and digestive problems, including schizophrenia, autism, dementia, high blood pressure, psoriasis, obesity, inflammation, arthritis, heart disease, and diabetes. In his book Wheat Belly, Dr. William Davis draws on decades of research to outline the dangers of wheat. He notes that modern production methods of wheat have contributed to unforeseen physical and mental problems, many of which are lessened or alleviated by stopping eating it. In reference to “the clever marketing ploys” used by food manufacturers, Dr. Davis suggests that “this is a battle that needs to be fought on all fronts” noting the “incredible societal pressures to not eat real food” as well as the inundation of ads for unhealthy foods (2011, 194). He points out that many food companies pay for much of the “research” by dietitians and nutrition scientists which is “made even more difficult to ignore when the American Heart Association and other health organizations endorse their products,” noting that the AMA has endorsed Honey Nut Cheerios and “until recently” Cocoa Puffs (Davis 2011, 194). Throughout his book, Dr. Davis challenges the idea of “healthy whole grains” being healthy, instead arguing for the removal of wheat from the American diet to improve health.

“MADE WITH SMILES” This marketing trick is not confined to adults but includes children as well. A 2013 commercial for Pepperidge Farms Goldfish exemplifies this concept. The commercial opens with a woman driving her car. There are two children in the backseat who are using their phones while she is talking to a business associate telling him that she doesn’t like the layout and that it needs to be redone. It is clear from the conversation that she is in charge. She looks in the rearview mirror at her two children and tells the man that she is unable to talk to him any longer. She asks her son named Joey to tell her what’s next on the list to which he replies, “Get the car washed” before returning to look at his phone (Goldfish TV Commercial 2013). The mother then drives to the car wash, during which the family stays in the car. She turns to her son and says, “The storm is getting worse Captain” as the car moves through the car wash, to which her son replies, “The fish are all jumpy” as he holds a bag of whole grain cheddar flavored Goldfish in one hand and the snack in the other (Goldfish TV Commercial 2013). He then asks if she “battened down the hatches,” to which she replies, “Aye” as they both laugh (Goldfish TV Commercial 2013). The next shot is of the little girl holding a Goldfish piece of

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bread by the window pretending to make it swim in the car wash as the boys says, “If we survive this it will be a miracle” as he eats a handful of Goldfish (Goldfish TV Commercial 2013). As they continue through the car wash, the mother points out the window of the car and says, “There’s something on the starboard bow,” after which the girl says, “Octopus” and then all three of them scream (Goldfish TV Commercial 2013). The camera then cuts to an African American man working at the car wash who smiles then to the little girl now eating her Goldfish shaped bread who says, “That was close” before the announcer says, “Goldfish whole wheat bread and crackers made from whole grain, the snack that smiles back” as the last shot of the products is shown (Goldfish TV Commercial 2013). The ingredients listed on a package of cheddar-flavored “whole grain” Goldfish begins with “made with smiles and whole wheat flour,” while the second ingredient is enriched wheat flour followed by cheddar cheese and vegetable oils then salt. Following this, there is a list of ingredients that made up less than 2 percent of the product which include yeast, autolyzed yeast extract, paprika, spices, celery, baking soda, monocalcium phosphate, and onion powder. Though marketed as a healthy snack for kids, Goldfish “do not offer much in terms of nutrition,” noting that the enriched wheat flour “is the main ingredient in Goldfish and is the standard flour many packaged foods and white bread is made of” (Fish 2023). She goes on to explain that the flour “is called enriched as it is enriched with vitamins. The vitamins added to enriched flour include synthetic vitamins such as folic acid, which newer research shows may not be the best form of this vitamin” (Fish 2023). She also notes that the vegetable oils included are “probably the least healthy part of the Goldfish snack” while also pointing out that enriched wheat flour is not a whole grain (Fish 2023). As both a dietician and a mother, she concludes by pointing out that goldfish are a processed prepackaged snack. And much like other processed snacks they aren’t beneficial nutritionally but primarily composed of refined white flour as well as other ingredients we normally wouldn’t cook with at home (vegetable oil, to name one). (Fish 2023)

In addition to this, the idea of “fun food” such as that shaped into fish can result in not only a mistaken belief that the product is healthy but also create a deep emotional attachment to a food from childhood. The powerful combination of nostalgic childhood feelings coupled with the addictive wheat and fat in a product which “smiles back” can result in a binge for those addicted to food and a means of relieving emotional discomfort for both food addicts and normal eaters, an indicator of food addiction behavior (Danowski 2019, 11). The belief that the product is made from “whole grains” can cause over consumption of an unhealthy product.

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“FAT-FREE/REDUCED FAT” The fourth marketing trick outlined by Healthy Options Marketing Tricks article is the use of the fat-free or reduced sugar label which results in an increase of sugar in the products. This practice has its roots in a concerted effort by a sugar industry organization to minimize the dangers of the product. A recent review of industry documents found that in the 1960s and 1970s the Sugar Research Foundation sponsored medical research to deter health concerns away from their product and place blame on fatty foods (Kearns, Schmidt, and Glanz 2016). Researchers reviewed “Sugar Research Foundation (SRF) internal documents, historical reports, and statements relevant to early debates about the dietary causes of CHD [coronary heart disease] and assembled findings chronologically into a narrative case study” (Kearns, Schmidt, and Glanz 2016, 1680). They noted that in 1965 SRF sponsored the first of several studies, which was published in 1967 in The New England Journal of Medicine, highlighting fat and cholesterol as the cause of heart disease while simultaneously downplaying sucrose which was also a risk factor. At that time, the SRF’s funding of the project was not mentioned in the article. Prior to this, the president of SRF spoke about a potential business opportunity which would increase sugar consumption by a third, pointing out that if the public could be convinced to avoid fat, then they would need to replace it with something, namely, sugar. The researchers concluded that Together with other recent analyses of sugar industry documents, our findings suggest the industry sponsored a research program in the 1960s and 1970s that successfully cast doubt about the hazards of sucrose while promoting fat as the dietary culprit in CHD. (Kearns Schmidt and Glanz 2016, 1680)

At the same time, the sugar industry launched an advertising campaign to promote sugar as a method of weight loss. An ad in a 1970 issue of Life magazine from the GW Sugar company talked about “the fat time of day when you’re really hungry” and how a sweet snack can “turn it down shortly before mealtime .  .  . by cutting your appetite and increasing your energy” (Friedman 2014). Another advertisement for GW Sugar noted that “Sugar is a vital factor in a healthy diet” while including an orange labeled with the word “sugar” alongside a box of processed sugar to create a false visual connection between natural and processed sugar (Friedman 2014). Similarly, ads for dextrose, in addition to the one described previously in this chapter, promoted the substance as “the fragrance of the earth” complete with images of a hummingbird sipping nectar from a flower and sunlight beaming on an ear of corn, a bunch of grapes, and a rose (Friedman 2014). An ad from 1970 included the words “Diet Device” at the top with the headline, “Sugar’s quick

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energy can be the willpower you need to eat less” while promising that “The sugar in a soft drink or ice cream cone, shortly before mealtime, turns into energy fast. And that energy could be just the energy you need to say ‘no’ to those extra helpings at mealtime” (Marsh 2015). A 1977 ad, which includes an address for “Sugar Information” in the bottom, asks the question in bold white letters, “If sugar is so fattening, how come so many kids are thin?” while including text about how much sugar kids eat and how few “fat kids” there are since sugar in kids “can mean a supply of body fuel” and “a little reward that promotes a sense of satisfaction and well-being,” concluding that “sugar is good food” (Friedman 2014). With the demonization of fat in advertising continuing for several decades marked, in part, by the release of the United States Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) first food pyramid in 1992 which put fats, oils, and sweets at the top in the use-sparingly category, public demand for reducedfat and fat-free products grew. Among these were SnackWell’s cookies, which were introduced in 1992, and, unlike other low-fat cookies, were not fruit based, but instead included flavors such as chocolate cookies and cheese crackers (Corday 2019). The success of SnackWell’s was immediate with $57 million in sales the first five months and in the following first full year in 1993, “$150 million, and after three years, consumers had bought $500 million worth of SnackWell’s, with $161 million spent on devil’s food cake cookies alone” (Corday 2019). The result of this was a scarcity of SnackWell’s, most notably the Devil’s Food Cookie Cakes, which was addressed in a series of advertisements introducing “The Cookie Man,” a meek SnackWell’s worker who is stalked by three ladies demanding to know why their favorite cookies are no longer in stock at grocery stores (Corday 2019). In one of the first of these commercials, “The Cookie Man” dressed in a white lab coat leaves a brick building through a door with a SnackWell’s sign above it. He is greeted by a woman in a yellow businesstype suite who asks if he makes the delicious, fat-free devil’s food cookies, to which he replies yes. Another woman who is casually dressed appears on the other side of him and asks why they can’t find them in grocery stores anymore. The man becomes nervous and asks what’s going on. An African American woman dressed in a red business suit tells him, “You’ve got some explaining to do, Cookie Man,” while the others agree and surround him (Corday 2019). He tells the women that the cookies are more popular than they expected and that they are making more as fast as they can to which the African American woman tells him, “You’re breaking my heart” as he quickly gets into his car and tells them to talk to the “big boys upstairs” because he just makes the cookies (Corday 2019). The next shot is of a box of SnackWell’s with a male announcer’s voice who apologizes for the shortage and encourages consumers to purchase the other flavors. In total,

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twenty-three different commercials featuring “The Cookie Man” would air beginning in 1993 throughout 1997, always with the same theme of there never being enough SnackWell’s for people to buy, thus illustrating a food addict’s greatest fear—running out of food. Each of the commercials in this series portrayed people willing to do anything to obtain this food who were deeply attached to the product and used it to relieve emotional discomfort/ seek emotional change, all of which indicate food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11). Beginning in the late 1990s, however, things would change. Amid growing health concerns, and a rise in obesity, nutrition experts began to talk about “The SnackWell’s Effect” which suggests that people who eat fat-free food feel as if they have the freedom to eat the entire box of cookies rather than the suggested serving size of a few cookies, the result of which is an increase in calories and eventually weight gain. A 2002 article in The New York Times Magazine asked the question, “What if it’s all been a big fat lie” and then went on to discuss how the “eat less fat and more carbohydrates” recommendation from the “American medical establishment” is “the cause of the rampaging epidemic of obesity in America” (Taub 2002). In the article, Walter Willett, Chairman of the Department of Nutrition at the Harvard School of Public Health, is mentioned as the spokesperson for “the longest-running, most comprehensive diet and health studies ever performed” that “include data on nearly 300,000 individuals” (Taub 2002). As noted in the article, “[t] hose data, says Willett, clearly contradict the low-fat-is-good-health message ‘and the idea that all fat is bad for you; the exclusive focus on adverse effects of fat may have contributed to the obesity epidemic’” (Taub 2002). The topic of low-fat and obesity would also become the focus of the PBS series Frontline a little over a year later. In an interview with nutritionist Marion Nestle, the then chair of New York University’s Department of Nutrition, Food Studies, and Public Health and the author of Food Politics: How the Food Industry Influences Nutrition and Health, she noted that “$34 billion worth of advertising . . . goes into directly selling . . . foods that are high in fat and calories . . . cheap foods . . . that are heavily marketed” (Frontline 2004). She goes on to say that “the food industry would substitute vegetable fats for animal fats” and “would also substitute sugars for fats” yet the calorie count remained equal in both products. She points to the SnackWell Effect as an example of this saying, that “SnackWell cookies were advertised as no-fat cookies, but they had almost the same number of calories” and that the low-fat idea was interpreted as, if you had a product that was low in fat, it was good for you, without thinking of calories. Just because it’s low-fat doesn’t mean it’s healthy. It’s still going to have calories, and calories are what counts. (Frontline 2004)

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Despite an attempt to rebrand the product, the SnackWell’s brand was retired in 2022. “HALF THE CALORIES, ZERO FAT” SnackWell’s weren’t the only product facing scrutiny by nutritionists. A potato chip manufacturer took a different approach to the fat-free technique as evidenced by a 1998 commercial for Pringles Fat Free Potato Chips. The commercial opens with two men who are standing in a backyard by a grill as they barbeque. One man is talking while the other eats a Pringles Fat Free Chip. The announcer says, “If you like Pringles, you’ll LOVE new fat free Pringles” as the camera pulls out to reveal a woman seated in the house with a dog while she is eating potato chips (Rewind Me 2019). The announcer continues, “Because they’re made with Olean, they’re half the calories, zero fat and so much like original Pringles” as the woman continues to blissfully eat the potato chips even stuffing her mouth (Rewind Me 2019). The container of Pringles then falls out the window and eventually lands in the bag of a nearby paperboy who is riding his bicycle who then throws the container back to the men at the grill. The men pick up the container and eat a chip as the announcer says, “You’ll think they taste just as good,” after which one of the men says to the other, “These are fat free?” while the other man seems surprised (Rewind Me 2019). The final shot is of the product with the words, “Tasting is believing” underneath (Rewind Me 2019). The ingredients listed in Pringles are dried potatoes, olestra (Olean Brand), maltodextrin, and rice flour. Maltodextrin is a highly processed sugar substitute made from corn, potato starch, or wheat, while Olestra is fat substitute listed in at the Time magazine website as one of the fifty worst inventions, noting that Olestra “not only removed unwanted fat from foods but also negated the body’s ability to absorb essential vitamins,” producing side effects of “cramps, gas and loose bowels, turning fat-free French fries into a foiled business fad” (Gentilviso 2010). It’s also noted in the article that “The FDA has kept olestra as a legal food additive to this day, though, leaving its health implications in the hands of individual consumers” (Gentilviso 2010). Fat Free Pringles were discontinued in 2000 due to low sales as a result of health concerns. Whether the advertised product is reduced or low-fat cookies or potato chips, the result is the same—those addicted to food, those with obesity, and even normal eaters are led to believe the product is better for them and, in many cases, will not contribute to weight gain as reinforced by fit, even thin, body sizes of the actors in the commercials. However, for those addicted to food, the inability to stop eating these products coupled with the deep

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emotional attachment based on a mistaken belief of finally having found products which make their deepest desire of eating sweets without consequences come true, reduced or fat-free products can be even more dangerous than those containing fat due to the denial of the dangers that comes with them.

BAKED LAY’S AND SUPERMODELS Some manufacturers managed to stay on the fringes of the no-fat controversy by reducing fat without advertising their products that way yet giving the appearance of health. A 1996 commercial for Baked Lay’s Potato Crips clearly illustrates the fat-free/reduced fat marketing trick. The commercial opens with several beautiful women sitting in lounge chairs in bathing suits by a pool with empty bags of Baked Lay’s Potato Crisps. As the camera moves down the row, each woman is clearly annoyed that her bag of chips is empty. There is music in the background and a grumbling sort of noise underneath that. The camera finally comes to rest on the Muppet Miss Piggy who is shown in a bathing suit sitting on a lounge chair eating Baked Lay’s Potato Chips surround by empty bags of the product. She looks at the row of women who are glaring at her as she eats and appears to be sorrowful before saying, “What?” to the women (Zarraonandia 2021). An announcer says, “Baked Lay’s Potato Crips with one and a half grams of fat per ounce serving you may be tempted to eat like a .  .  .” at which point Miss Piggy interrupts him, saying, “Don’t even think about it!” after which the announcer says, “Sorry” (Zarraonandia 2021). When a close-up of the product is shown, the words, “Eat sensibly. Read the label” appear at the bottom of the screen (Zarraonandia 2021). It’s worth noting that the women in this commercial are all supermodels known for their striking looks and “perfect” body sizes. The ingredients in Baked Lay’s are dried potatoes, corn starch, corn oil, sugar, sea salt, soy lecithin, dextrose, and annatto extracts. Both corn starch and dextrose are forms of sugar. With the addition of actual sugar as the fourth ingredient, three out of the eight ingredients listed are sugar or sugar products, making this product highly addictive for food addicts while, at the same time, contributing to their denial by including beautiful women with “perfect” bodies in the commercial. The inclusion of Miss Piggy bingeing on the product, though presented in a humorous way, can be seen as giving permission to both food addicts and normal eaters to binge on the product since the bingeing episode is treated lightly and lacking consequences. Add to this the low-fat aspect of the product advertised in the commercial and the result is a powerful contributor to

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food addiction denial, thus oftentimes resulting in binges as well as a “Happy Eating” portrayal.

“TO THE CHIP” In an advertisement for toasted RITZ crackers, the use of the words “low/ nonfat” are avoided, yet the name of the product as well as the activities in the commercial itself is clearly designed to remind viewers of the reduction of fat. The commercial opens with a group of well-dressed young adults sitting in a living room setting with trays of snacks, including a box of toasted RITZ chips. A young man stands up and says, “Everyone, I’d like to raise a toast to that classic RITZ cracker taste in a crunchy toasted chip,” during which a close-up of the box and a bowl of chips are shown as well as two other people “toasting” with their crackers before everyone begins to chant, “To the chip. To the chip” (RITZ Crackers 2023). The chanting continues as a close-up is shown of an African American man putting the chip on his tongue and crunching it. The final shot is of three different flavors of the product’s boxes with a small bowl in front as an announcer begins speaking over the chanting, “RITZ toasted chips. The crunchy chips only from RITZ” (RITZ Crackers 2023). All but one of the young, well-dressed people in the commercial are of normal weight. The one woman with obesity is shown only briefly during the toasting scene, and only a small portion of her upper body is visible. Even though the low-fat aspect of the chips is not emphasized in the commercial, the use of the word “toasted” is synonymous with less fat and on the box and at the manufacturer’s website, visitors are told that the chips are “The same RITZ flavor you love, only in a toasted chip. Not fried,” thus reinforcing the low-fat claim without using the actual words. On the box, the words, “55% less fat than the leading regular fried potato chips” appear above the words “oven baked” to once again make consumers aware of the “healthiness” of the product. According to the box, 14 chips contain 4.5 grams of fat. There are 8 servings per container for a total of 36 grams of fat in the box and 1,040 calories in the whole box with 130 in the serving size of 14 chips. The ingredients in the Original Flavored RITZ Toasted Chips are cornstarch, sugar, high-fructose corn syrup, and potato starch with the first ingredient being unbleached enriched flour. Though cornstarch and potato starch are not technically classified as sugars, they are oftentimes used to add sweetness to a product causing a raise in blood sugar levels and are high in carbohydrates, both of which can trigger those physically addicted to sugar and flour to binge (Food Addiction Institute 2022). Additionally, as described in the “SnackWell Effect,” the idea that the chips are toasted rather than fried gives

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the appearance of a healthy snack which can also cause even those who are not addicted to food to eat the entire box, resulting in half the average daily calories needed for an average woman as well as a deep emotional attachment to what is advertised as a “healthy” product as well as a means of seeking emotional change, both indicators of food addiction portrayals (Danowski 2019, 11). The lack of people with obesity in the commercial as well as the emphasis on the toasted aspect of the product results in a “Happy Eating” portrayal in which the consequences of eating this product are ignored.

“LOVE HURTS” This section about low-fat would not be complete without making reference to a 2019 Chilly Cow Ice Cream commercial. The commercial opens with an African American woman eating ice cream with a spoon directly from the container and crying. The Nazareth song “Love Hurts” is playing as she sobs. The next shot is of a White woman sobbing as she holds an ice-cream bar, at which time a male announcer comes on and says, “These people aren’t eating ice cream because they’re sad, they’re sad because they’re eating ice cream,” at which point the camera cuts to a man sobbing while eating ice cream as the announcer continues “Bad light ice cream” as a hand comes in and knocks the ice cream out of the man’s hand, after which several arms hold various flavors of Chilly Cow Ice Cream out to him (Chilly Cow 2019). The announcer says, “Try Chilly Cow, yes, Chilly Cow. It’s the creamiest, lower-calorie, proteinpacked ice cream made with ultra-filtered milk,” during which time the man is shown with various arms both feeding him ice cream and massaging his temples (Chilly Cow 2019). The last shot is of a package of ice cream with the words, “Save yourself from yourself” to the right of it (Chilly Cow 2019). Not only does this commercial make a bold statement about low-fat/nonfat ice cream, but it also speaks to those who want the same taste of regular fat products with less calories and fat. The fact that people are shown crying over the taste of their ice cream implies an attachment to ice cream that, for many, can be considered emotionally, if not physically, unhealthy, and results in a food addiction portrayal (Danowski 2019, 11). In addition to ultra-filtered nonfat milk, which is the first ingredient, and several emulsifiers, the light, mint dark chocolate chip flavor of Chilly Cow Ice Cream contains inulin (a natural sweetener made from chicory root), erythritol, sugar, and stevia leaf extract (a plant), resulting in sweetness from four different sources, two of which are processed. The use of stevia leaf extract is important since even though the sweetener is derived from a plant, it has been processed, the result of which is a substance approximately 300 times sweeter than sugar, making this product even more appealing to those addicted to food.

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“REAL FRUIT” The final marketing trick outlined in the Healthy Options “Food Marketing Tricks” article is the advertising of “real fruit” in a product despite it having been processed, thus stripping it of nutrients. This concept is illustrated in a 2013 commercial for Smucker’s Strawberry Preserves. The commercial opens with a male child sitting at a picnic table. The text underneath the image notifies viewers that it is Orrville, Ohio, 1954. The child is stuffing strawberries into a jar, after which he holds it up to the light. He says to himself, “Oh, I lost count” as his friend drives up on a bicycle and parks it near a barn (FM1156 2018). His friend asks what the boy who is named Richard is doing, after which Richard says, “How does Grandpa do it?” (FM1156 2019). After his friend asks what, Richard replies, “How does he get so many strawberries in the jar?” (FM1156 2018). His friend tells him that he’ll figure it out before the next shot is of several flavors of Smucker’s surrounded by baskets of fresh fruit, at which time the announcer says, “Tim and Richard Smucker grew up knowing that if you want jam to taste irresistible, it has to be packed with lots of delicious fruit” before the camera returns to the two boys showing Richard trying to stuff a peach in the jar as he tells the other boy, “I don’t even want to know how he gets peaches in there” (FM1156 2018). The final shot is of the two boys sitting at the picnic table surrounded by fresh fruit, fruit trees, the barn, and green grass with a jar of Smucker’s Strawberry Preserves in the forefront and the words, “With a name like Smucker’s, it has to be good” (FM1156 2018). Though strawberries are the first ingredient in the preserves, following that are high-fructose corn syrup, corn syrup, sugar, fruit pectin and, citric acid, making this product far sweeter than the natural fruit would as well as highly addictive to food addicts. A similar “real fruit” marketing trick technique is shown in a 1985 commercial for Fruit Roll-Ups. The commercial opens with a school bell ringing and children running out the doors as they cheer, after which a song with the words, “I want to get out and get going cuz it’s the best time of the day now” begins as children are shown grabbing Fruit Roll-Ups (RetroStatic 2016). The song continues with the words, “Just my friends and my Fruit Roll-Ups. Wow, we love our Fruit Roll-Ups” (RetroStatic 2016). The song goes on to repeat how much they love their Fruit Roll-Ups, saying, “I want real fruit and fun rolled up in one” before a child’s voice says that there’s “even more fun” in each box since there’s a free drawing marker in each box (RetroStatic 2016). A commercial from 2003 aired during Toon Disney features the Fruit RollUps Factory, where children are shown working as the announcer says they are “hard at work deciding what will be the new fruit flavor strip” as several children are shown calling out flavors while throwing them at each other, after which the announcer continues, “and they weren’t doing a very good

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job. That’s why we asked you to vote. Now, the results are in” (TheBoss68 2021). As he finishes speaking, the children freeze and look at a jackpot-like screen and then the announcer continues, “And the new Fruit Roll-Ups flavor strip is Berry Blitz. Now all your Fruit Roll-Ups have a strip of tasty Berry Blitz flavor” as a young girl says, “Yes! I knew it,” after which the others tell her she didn’t as the doors to the factory close and the announcer asks, “What fun Fruit Roll-Ups will we roll up next?” (TheBoss68 2021). While this commercial directly targeted children, a 2012 advertisement focuses on mothers. The commercial begins with a woman grocery shopping with her child who asks her if he can have a treat. She looks at him but doesn’t answer as he says, “Please” throughout the store as they move from aisle to aisle until the woman finds a box of Fruit Roll-Ups, at which point a female announcer says, “Betty Crocker fruit-flavored snacks, less than 100 calories and made with real fruit” (Fruitsnackia 2012). As the woman shows the box to her child, small print appears at the bottom of the screen that says, “These fruit flavored snacks are made with apple and pear concentrate. See packaging for list of complete ingredients. They are not intended to replace fruit in the diet.” before the announcer says, “Thanks Mom” as the child stops begging and takes the box with a final shot of the product with and the words, “less than 100 calories, made with real fruit” (Fruitsnackia 212). Since then, Fruit Roll-Ups have enjoyed a resurgence of popularity on social media, beginning in October 2021, when a commentator suggested that a well-known TikTok user try wrapping the snack around a scoop of ice cream. The user took the suggestion, made a video, and “garnered over 9.2 million views” (Torres 2023). In 2023, the snack idea resurfaced using mango-flavored ice cream instead of vanilla, resulting in a total of 14 million views over twelve videos (Torres 2023). The trend resulted in a BuzzFeed staff writer describing the popularity while writing about her experience in trying the snack (Torres 2023) as well as an article in The New York Times reporting about people smuggling Fruit Roll-Ups into Israel. In the article, it was noted that stores in the country have sold out of the product due to the TikTok fad, which has resulted in many travelers attempting to make a profit by bringing Fruit Roll-Ups into the country. The Israeli government began taking steps to stop the smuggling and had since confiscated “661 pounds in one week alone,” noting that “one Roll-Up weighs in at 0.5 of an ounce, that makes for tens of thousands of individual packets” (McCarthy 2023). It was also reported that an American couple tried to bring in two suitcases each filled with 185 pounds of Fruit Roll-Ups in April, while more recently “two single passengers were also caught coming from the United States with large amounts: one with nearly 73 pounds of the snacks in suitcases and another traveling with over 143 pounds of them” (McCarthy 2023). At the beginning of May, Israel’s Health Ministry took to Twitter to warn citizens about the

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unhealthy ingredients in Fruit Roll-Ups, urging residents to eat cucumber rollups instead (McCarthy 2023). The ingredients in Berry Tie-Dye Fruit Roll-Ups are as listed on the box as sugar, maltodextrin, corn syrup, pear puree concentrate, palm oil. Contains 2 percent or less of carrageenan, citric acid, monoglycerides, sodium citrate, acetylated monoglycerides, malic acid, xanthan gum, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), locust bean gum, potassium citrate, natural flavor, and color (red 40, blue 1). It’s worth noting that the “real fruit” appears fourth on the list in the form of pear puree concentrate, the process of which results in stripping the nutrients out of the pears. Also of note, the first three ingredients are forms of sugar and the addition of carrageenan, which, though FDA-approved, is a controversial food thickener with possible links to inflammation and colon cancer. The “real fruit” marketing trick described in all these commercial not only gives these foods the appearance of being healthy, but it also contributes to the denial of both those addicted to food and those with obesity. The idea that a snack is made from “real fruit” as advertised throughout the years is appealing to those who understand the need to eat healthy fruit yet also crave sweet snacks. The large amounts and different types of sugars in all these products can trigger a food addict to binge (Food Addiction Institute 2022) while the intense sweet flavor can result in triggering even normal eaters to eat more of these products than is healthy. The idea that consumers can get “real fruit” in an ultra-processed product with sweetness that enjoys such popularity both in a wide variety of ads and on a popular social media platform creates a deep emotional attachment, an indicator of food addiction behavior (Danowski 2019, 11), and is appealing to many, as is the idea that mothers can simply buy their children “real fruit” snacks that will silence begging and satisfy both. Similarly, the idea of a family company using real fruit in their preserves as evidenced by two children trying to figure out how the owner of the company makes the product is equally as appealing while at the same time creating a pseudo connection to whole fruit when the actual ingredients in the product are ultra-processed. The lack of consequences shown in the advertisements creates a “Happy Eating” portrayal. “WHOLE BAG KINDA NIGHT” In addition to the marketing tricks outlined in the Healthy Options article, there are several other ways which the health theme appears in ultra-processed food advertisements. One of these is the name of the product. For example, there are several companies using the word “skinny” to lure consumers in with the promise of losing weight. Some of these both past and

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present include Skinny Water, which is artificially sweetened, Skinny Buns, Skinny Cow Ice Cream, Skinny Sticks, Skinny Dipped Almonds, Skinny Syrups, SkinnyMint Super Fat Burning Gummies, and SkinnyPop Popcorn, just to name a few. Though use of the word “skinny” appears to be on the rise, it’s important to note that other variations on this idea have been around for ages. Think about Girls Scout’s Thin Mints or Slim Jim Beef Jerky. Though it can be argued that these names refer to the products themselves, it would be difficult to make that same argument for the “skinny” products identified above. Use of this word can contribute to food addiction denial to rationalize eating more of the product the same way the SnackWell Effect did. The idea of normalizing bingeing in a “Happy Eating”-type scenario is especially obvious in a commercial for SkinnyPop Popcorn. Posted on the company’s YouTube channel on New Year’s Eve 2021 as a “Debut Music Video,” the minute-long advertisement shows four women of various ethnicities, who each have time alone. The first is a blonde-haired woman who sings about her roommate being gone, a time when “Nothing’s off limits” as she pours an entire bag of SkinnyPop Popcorn down her throat at the same time as a larger wave of popcorn overwhelms the scene (SkinnyPop Popcorn 2021). The second is a dark-haired Latin woman who sings about canceling her plans to do her thing. She sings, “It’s a night of popcorn. There’s no going back. Ripping off my lashes. It’s just me and this snack” as she sits next to a bag of SkinnyPop Popcorn on the sofa (SkinnyPop Popcorn 2021). Then all four sing, “It’s a whole bag kinda night” while the camera focuses on an African American woman with obesity in a bathtub eating popcorn who sings about having chardonnay, fancy glasses, essential oils, candles, and that she’s “going down tonight” as she sinks into the bathtub filled with SkinnyPop Popcorn (SkinnyPop Popcorn 2021). The final woman is Asian and sings about being a “Circle back queen,” sharing her screen and shutting down for “a snack that needs eating” with a bag that’s all hers as she dances around until sitting and pouring the bag of popcorn down her throat (SkinnyPop Popcorn 2021). In the final scene all the women are shown dancing together, singing about how “It’s a whole bag kinda night” until an overly large bag of SkinnyPop Popcorn lands in the middle of them, above which are the words, “It’s a whole bag kinda night” (SkinnyPop Popcorn 2021). In addition to the normalization of eating an entire bag of unhealthy, ultraprocessed food, several other food addiction behaviors are present in this commercial. The first of these is the images of bingeing alone as in the case of the first woman who sings about her roommate being gone (Danowski 2019, 11). Those addicted to food isolate themselves in order to binge as evidenced by “The Stages of Food Addiction” section of the Food Addiction Institute’s website, where hiding parts of life from others is listed as the middle stage of the disease in addition to feeling depressed and isolating from others (Food

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Addiction Institute 2022). Similarly, the second woman who canceled her plans and sings about being alone with her snack exhibits this type of behavior as do the other two. In addition to this, on the Assessing Food Addiction section of the website, it is noted that a symptom of food addiction is eating when happy or peaceful as well as sad or upset which clearly describes all four of the women in the video, most notably the African American woman who has prepared a special evening to eat her food (Food Addiction Institute 2022). In addition to this, the act of pouring popcorn down their throats directly from the bag and being surrounded by even larger amounts of the product are both portrayals of bingeing behavior which have the potential not only to normalize these dangerous acts but also encourage overconsumption of the product as does the entire idea of it being a “whole bag” night. Bingeing is listed as one of the most common addictive eating behaviors at the Food Addiction Institute’s website, making the behavior in this commercial even more dangerous for those addicted to food as portrayals of bingeing by showing four women who appear to be happy can trigger food addicts to binge, and even more unsettling, to believe they, too, will be “skinny” and happy if they eat this product. The use of the food to relieve emotional discomfort as in the case of needing to relax and the deep emotional attachment to the product as evidenced by the excitement around spending the night with the popcorn are both food addiction characteristics (Danowski 2019, 11). For food addicts and those not addicted to food, the message is clear—eating a whole bag of this product and canceling your plans to do so is a means of “self-care” that will result in feeling happy and could possibly even help with losing those few extra pounds. After all, the product has skinny in the name and holds that out as a promise for those who eat it. In fact, both food addicts and normal eaters may actually come to believe in the merits of eating “skinny” food, a process known as simple denial which allows people to believe that “eating high calorie foods will not make you gain weight” or “the dozen cookies you just ate will not affect your diet,” things that “at the time the person honestly believes to be true” (Danowski and Lazaro 2000, 80). Another form of food addiction denial is illustrated in the SkinnyPop commercial. This form is called defiance where “the food addict is able to manage the anxiety behavior and masquerade as self-confident and reliable” (Danowski and Lazaro 2000, 81). The women in the commercial appear to be strong, happy, self-confident, and sure of their plans to eat the whole bag of popcorn, thus illustrating the defiance form of food addiction denial. The final form of denial present in the SkinnyPop Popcorn commercial involves societal attitudes about food. “While it’s easy for people to realize that heroin is dangerous, a cream puff is a different story. It seems so harmless and oh, the taste!” (Danowski and Lazaro 2000, 83). Now, add to this a product with the word “skinny” in the name and it becomes clear exactly how

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powerful the images in this commercial are. Equally as noteworthy is the fact that the commercial is actually called a “Debut Music Video” and was posted on New Year’s Eve, which is historically a time when people gather together to celebrate the end of one year and the beginning of another. It’s also a time when those addicted to food may either feel badly about themselves if they have no plans or if another year has gone by in which they promised to lose weight and haven’t causing them to turn, once again, to food for solace. The commercial normalizes this binge-eating behavior, even proclaims it as something to be proud of, to sing and dance about resulting in a dangerous “Happy Eating” portrayal. While it can be argued that the presence of a woman with obesity does show the consequences of food addiction and should not be considered a “Happy Eating” occurrence, it can also be argued that the woman’s presence provides food addicts with someone with whom they can identify. As noted earlier, the form of simple denial allows viewers to ignore the woman’s body size and focus instead on the permission given in the commercial to eat an entire bag of popcorn. Additionally, another form of food addiction denial known as “terminal uniqueness” allows them to think that they are different from the woman shown, perhaps even “too sick” to be helped, unique in their pain. This type of denial “serves to separate the food addict from others and perpetuate denial.” The thinking goes something like this: “If I am different from others, then I am too sick to be helped, so I can continue to eat whatever I want” (Danowski and Lazaro 2000 84). All these types of denial are designed to avoid recognizing and recovering from food addiction. The fact that they are shown in such an appealing and upbeat manner as in the “Debut Music Video” on screen makes them all the more believable and attractive to the food addict bingeing alone at home while watching who, unlike those in the video, does not have three other friends to sing about their binges with while dancing together since, in actuality, the women in the commercial are not truly alone as they come together to dance throughout the video, have a camera in their presence, and are seen by millions, none of which reflects the reality of a food addict’s experience but is instead a “Happy Eating” portrayal. The ingredients in SkinnyPop Popcorn Original Flavor are popcorn, sunflower oil, and salt, while the Sweet & Salty flavor adds cane sugar, the Twist of Lime flavor includes rice flour and sugar, and the Sweet Vanilla flavor lists sugar as the second ingredient and rice flour as the fourth behind sunflower oil. At the manufacturer’s website, the products are advertised as “guilt-free snacking” with no artificial flavors, non-GMO, glutton- and dairy-free, zero trans-fat, and “a good source of fiber.” In the commercial, the women are shown eating both the Original flavor and the Kettle Corn Sweet & Salty flavor. While the Original flavor does not include sugar, the Kettle Corn

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Sweet & Salty flavor lists cane sugar in the ingredients. A serving size of the Original flavor is about 3 ¾ cups or 28 grams with a total of 4.4 servings in the bag resulting in 660 calories, 44 grams of fat, 330 mg of sodium, and 66 grams of carbohydrates if the whole bag is eaten. A serving size of the Kettle Corn Sweet & Salty flavor is about 2 ½ cups or 28 grams with a total of 5 servings per bag resulting in 700 calories, 35 grams of fat, 550 mg of sodium, and 85 grams of carbohydrates if the whole bag is eaten. One site dedicated to “wellness for working women” notes that SkinnyPop Popcorn gets an “A+ in marketing and deception,” the author of the site recommends avoiding the product due to the addition of sunflower oil in the product list. She points out that sunflower oil “is mainly comprised of an inflammatory fatty acid called omega-6s while having 0 healthy fatty acids called omega-3. While omega-6 is necessary in our diet, the average American gets way too much of it” which can result obesity, arthritis, diabetes, rheumatoid arthritis, and irritable bowel disease (Madison Mae 2021). It’s also noted at the site that the popcorn is not organic. One nutritional expert notes that “sunflower oil generates more aldehydes than other oils regardless of the cooking method” and that aldehydes are a toxic, cancer-causing substance (Mikstas 2022), thus making “a whole bag kinda night” not only an addictive trigger but a serious health issue as well.

HEALTH BY ASSOCIATION One of the most prevalent advertising techniques using the health theme involves the inclusion of fresh fruit and vegetables to make the product appear healthier than it actually is. This practice has been alluded to throughout this chapter; however, it’s worth separately examining the ways in which ultra-processed food manufacturers employ this “Health by Association” technique. A vintage Campbell’s Soup ad published in the 1930 issue of Needlecraft illustrates this technique. At the top of the ad is the headline “Lenten Choices, Four delicious soups that are strictly vegetable” which is positioned to the left of an illustration of a fresh celery stalk and peas in pods and alongside a paragraph of text that tells readers, “Although your choice of foods may be somewhat restricted at this season, you can enjoy these tempting and nourishing soups until your heart’s content” (Campbell’s Soup). The text goes on to describe four soups—tomato, asparagus, celery, and pea which sell do not contain meat and sell for “12 cents a can” (Campbell’s Soup 1930). The tomato soup is described as a “favorite of the world” and “renowned for its vivid, tempting color and irresistible flavor” while in the text for the asparagus soup it is noted that “this early spring king of the garden bestows all of its delicate flavor and nutriment” on the product (Campbell’s

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Soup 1930). The celery soup is described as having a “crips snowiness,” and “enticing aroma” with “the tonic refreshment of fine celery,” while the pea soup is said to be made by European families as “one of their principal foods” eaten “almost every day” as a “main source of family food supply” and “made from the tastiest of sweet peas” (Campbell’s Soup 1930). Underneath the text to the left is an illustration of a bowl of tomato soup with two tomatoes and a bunch of asparagus surrounding it. To the right of that is an illustration of a young child with an umbrella with the words, “Showers in April, Flowers in May-Campbell’s inside you, Happy and gay!” while below that are the words, “Meal-planning is easier with daily choices from Campbell’s 21 soups” (Campbell’s Soup 1930). A vintage 1940s-era advertisement for Campbell’s Cream of Asparagus Soup further illustrates this technique. In the full-page ad, the top third of the page is a picture of fresh asparagus with the headline “Tender Garden ASPARAGUS” and, in small print on the photo, “Actual color photograph of fresh asparagus used in the making of Campbell’s Cream of Asparagus Soup” underneath which are the words, “glorified in this smooth CREAM soup” (Campbell’s Soup 1930). There is a paragraph of text in the middle of the page which asks, “How would you like a taste of Spring tonight at supper?” before going on to talk about the “creamy smooth puree” in which the vegetable “is truly glorified” and encouraging consumers to “let the children have it often at lunch” since they “love it and it’s so good for them” (Campbell’s Soup 1930). Underneath the text is a photo of a bowl of soup with the can to right. A 1967 Pepperidge Farm ad for pumpernickel party slices ad also exemplifies the “Health by Association” technique. In the ad, the party slices are positioned next to a big red tomato and a container of olives on a wooden tray next to eighteen party slices most arranged with various toppings. In addition to mayonnaise and cream cheese-based toppings, tomatoes, onions, olives, red peppers, cucumbers, fresh parsley, and fresh chives are shown. In the right corner are recipes for some of the toppings and to the left text saying that the party slices are “just the right size for entertaining . . . each with a hearty flavor of its own” (Daddy’s Treasure 2 2023). A 1983 ad for another Pepperidge Farm product also illustrates the “Health by Association” technique. The ad for frozen vegetable pastries has text at the top urging viewers to “Come to Pepperidge Farm for vegetables in pastry” with smaller text saying, “Taste vegetables at the height of tender crispness” going on to describe the green “Snappy Oriental snow peas, pearly Chinese water chestnuts, crunchy broccoli” and sweet red peppers “delicately spiced .  .  .” with a “golden wrapping of light, fluffy puff pastry” (Stepping Stone Vintage Ads 2023). The largest text in the ad almost halfway down the page says, “Taste the way vegetables were meant to be,” which is positioned directly above a photo of the pastry with a lemon to the side, shrimp in back

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and carrots, pickles, broccoli, peas, red peppers, and water chestnuts spilling out of the pastry (Stepping Stone Vintage Ads 2023). A more recent commercial for Campbell’s Tomato Soup puts a twist on using vegetables in their advertisements. Though the first shot is of a can of the soup with a bright red tomato on it, there are no other vegetables in the commercial. Instead, the music and text used while a bowl of tomato soup with a grill cheese sandwich are shown, says, “Ain’t nothing like the real thing” to imply an association with the company’s stronghold on the tomato soup market but possibly also the idea that the product is made from real tomatoes thus “the real thing” (Campbell’s Tomato Soup TV Spot 2022). A similar commercial using the song, “Do you believe in magic” does, however, employ the “Health by Association” technique. In this commercial, the words, “Dinnertime again?” appear on the screen as a can of Campbell’s Cream of Chicken soup slides into the frame which is followed by a shot of a woman’s hand spooning the soup into a pot with a white-colored mixture in it (Ad Inception 2023). Next to the pot is a bowl of fresh peas along with several strips of bacon and a bunch of uncooked pasta. In the next few shots, the woman puts first the peas into the pot then the bacon and pasta. The deep green color of the peas stands out against the light-colored liquid. The final shot is of the woman putting the mixture on the table with the words, “Make magic from whatever you’ve got. Start something good” (Ad Inception 2023). To the left of the mixture is a green salad. One of the more well-known “Health by Association” practices has been advertised throughout the years by the company during holiday time. One ad in particular opens with a shot of Campbell’s Cream of Mushroom soup with music in the background about how thankful the singer is. The next shot is of a large dish with a green bean casserole in the middle, which contains the soup, and fresh green beans to right and pork rinds to the left. The dish is passed around a table by several other people whose faces we cannot see. As the dish moves down the table, various other food items are shown, some of which contain vegetables such as yams. As the dish continues to move, the words, “’Tis the Green Bean Casserole Season” appear in large white letters as a hand in the upper-right corner replaces a drink with a fresh slice of lemon in it (Campbell’s Soup Cream of Mushroom TV Spot 2020). The final shot is of the product and then the company’s name with the words, “M’m! M’m! Good” underneath (Campbell’s Soup Cream of Mushroom TV Spot 2020). According to the company, the casserole has been a tradition since 1955 when “Dorcas Reilly, then a Campbell’s Kitchen employee, wanted to create a quick and easy recipe around two things most Americans always had on hand: green beans and Campbell’s Cream of Mushroom soup” which has resulted in 30 million households per year making the casserole with 1.5 million visitors to the company’s website seeking the recipe at Thanksgiving

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time (Campbell’s 2016), thus establishing a firm “Health By Association” tie-in. In each of these ads, fresh vegetables are used to make the products appear healthier than they actually are. In Campbell’s Tomato Soup, sugar is the third ingredient and wheat flour the fourth, while the company’s Cream of Asparagus soup contains modified food starch, wheat flour, and sugar. In the Cream of Celery soup, modified corn starch, wheat flour, and sugar are included, while the Pea soup has bleached enriched flour and sugar. The Cream of Chicken soup contains modified corn starch and wheat flour, as does the Cream of Mushroom soup. The Pepperidge Farm Pumpernickel Party Slices includes enriched wheat flour, wheat gluten, and dextrose in the list of ingredients. The vegetable pastries have been discontinued, and a list of ingredients is not available; however, the company’s pastry dough does contain high-fructose corn syrup, and it’s likely the vegetable pastries used the same dough. Despite the inclusion of healthy fruits and vegetables in these commercials, the reality is the products are ultra-processed, unhealthy foods which can result in serious health consequences. Additionally, in each commercial a deep emotional attachment to the product is portrayed and used to seek emotional change, both indicators of food addiction behavior (Danowski 2019, 11) and “Happy Eating” ads. “VITAMIN DONUTS” One of the most popular marketing techniques to make ultra-processed foods appear healthier than they actually are involves the practice of advertising the product as being fortified with vitamins and minerals. A 1941 vintage ad exemplifies this practice. The product, Vitamin Donuts, is advertised as necessary “For pep and vigor” in the headline next to an image of a smiling boy holding a donut and underneath which, with a bright yellow background, are the words “Vitamin Donuts” with the words “vitamin” in red and “donuts” in dark blue (Lary 2023). To the left underneath that is an image of a smiling girl who appears to be gazing at a large plate with two donuts on it. The donuts are chocolate-covered, and the plate is white next to what appears to be a seal of some kind with two chefs’ heads and the words, “Mark of Tested Quality” (Lary 2023). At the bottom of the page are the words, “Each Donut Fortified with a minimum of 25 units of Vitamin B1” (Lary 2023). Introduced by the Doughnut Corporation of America in the early 1940s, Vitamin Donuts were made with enriched white flour which made the U.S. War Food Administration’s nutrition division conclude that the donuts themselves did not contain vitamins, that only the flour did, and therefore, the company was forced to stop advertising the product as “Vitamin Donuts” (Gleim 2023). According

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to Jessica Cox, a wellness dietitian at Birmingham, Alabama, health and wellness center St. Vincent’s One Nineteen, the donuts were not healthy. The process of enriching flour only adds back some nutrients that are lost in the refining process. . . . As much as I would love for them to be healthy . . . I would not consider doughnuts made with enriched white flour a healthy source of nutrients. Doughnuts are made using only refined white flour, and these refined carbohydrates have been shown to be worse for your health than saturated fats. (Gleim 2023)

Also, worth noting during this time period is an advertisement for the “12th Annual National Donut Week,” which took place April 25–30 in 1940 (Redbubble 2023). The text in the ad reads, “Donuts for America’s No.1 light breakfast” and includes illustrations of a cup of coffee, juice, and a plate with two donuts on it (Redbubble 2023). An ad for the following year’s “National Donut Week,” which was held October 9–14 in 1941, encouraged celebrants to “Pep up with Donuts” (Redbubble 2023). The idea of healthy donuts that contain vitamins can be seen as every food addict’s dream come true. Though obviously not a healthy means of getting vitamins, with advertising such as this, a food addict can easily convince themselves that eating this product is healthy while at the same time creating a deep emotional attachment to a food which is said to give health benefits in the form of vitamins. The inclusion of the words, “For pep and vigor” in the ad is a clear sign of using food to seek emotional (and physical) change, which is an indicator of food addiction behavior (Danowski 2019, 11) while the consequences of eating an ultra-processed product are absent from the ad making this a “Happy Eating” portrayal. “PINCH AN INCH” One of the most well-known products using the technique of fortification is breakfast cereals. Though some manufacturers don’t use the actual word “fortification,” they do advertise the vitamins in the cereal. An example of this is a 1971 commercial for Special K Cereal that shows a family sitting at the table passing around a box of the product as a male announcer says, This is America’s favorite high-protein cereal, Kellogg’s Special K. It also has eight essential vitamins. Special K gives your family 33 percent of the officially established minimum daily adult requirements of iron, thiamin, riboflavin, niacin, Vitamins C, A, and D plus Vitamins B6 and B12. Special K Cereal is 99 percent fat free and it’s delicious. Look for the big red K. The whole family will like it. (Robatsea2009 2010)

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While the final shot of the breakfast scene is shown, the words, “Good for the whole family” appear at the bottom of the screen (Robatsea2009 2010). Following this time period, the company began a campaign to challenge those wanting to lose weight to exchange two of their regular meals each day for a bowl of Special K for a two-week time period, promising that dieters would drop a jean size in two weeks by losing up to six pounds in fourteen days. As one nutritionist notes, the diet is designed to be “a quick fix” without any guidelines about what the third meal of the day should be, pointing out that “if that meal is loaded with fat and calories, the calorie savings from the rest of the day could be negated—and you won’t lose weight” (Zelman 2009). Other experts note that the Challenge is “too low in protein, fiber, fruits, and vegetables” without an “exercise component and the kinds of sustainable changes that are the foundation” for a healthy, sustained weight loss (Zelman 2009). It’s worth noting that Special K Cereal introduced the “Pinch an Inch” challenge as a means of using the product to encourage weight loss. A 1984 commercial illustrates this idea. The commercial opens with an upbeat song with the lyrics, “Thanks to the ‘K’ you can’t pinch an inch. Thanks to the ‘K’ you can’t pinch an inch on me” as an attractive healthy woman is shown getting dressed, weighing herself, and trying to “pinch an inch” on herself, after which a close-up of the cereal in a bowl with coffee and fruit is shown as a male announcer says, “If you can pinch an inch the Kellogg’s Special K breakfast may help you lose weight. It’s under 200 calories, high in protein,” at which point the camera focuses on the woman, who says, “I can’t think of a tastier, or better way to start my day” (Vintage Commercials 2016). By the late 1990s, amid increased competition and declining sales, the company backtracked. In 1998, a series of commercial designed to “reshape” attitudes was introduced. Among the first of these is a commercial showing various men as they speak the following, “This year I will not freak out if I gain two pounds. I will stop asking, ‘Do I look fat in this?’ I will learn to appreciate my body. I will not let my dress size determine my self worth,” at which point the screen fades to black with the words, “Men don’t obsess over these things. Why do we?” (Excelsior10000 2014). After that the camera goes back to a man who says, “I have my mother’s thighs. I have to accept that,” after which the words, “Reshape your attitude” appear with the Special K logo before the camera returns to a guy who asks, “Do these make my butt look big? I hope not” (Excelsior10000 2014). The company’s efforts to encourage female empowerment, healthy eating, and feeling good while moving away from weight-loss and body-shaming commercials continue to this day. A recent example of this is a 2021 commercial that begins with a big white K to the left of the screen with the word

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“Special” in small print on a red background as strawberries are shown bursting up from the bottom. Next is a yellow background with the “Special K” still there as banana slices burst up from the bottom, followed by a blue background with blueberries, then each of these shown in bowls separately with the fruit in them as a female announcer says, “Real fruit and whole grains. Doing something good for yourself has never been this easy. Kellogg’s Special K. Do what’s delicious” as three boxes of the cereal are shown with the words, “Do what’s delicious” above (SM 2021). Though the company seldom, if ever, currently promotes weight loss in its commercials, it does encourage the “healthy eating” of an ultra-processed food that lists sugar, brown sugar syrup, and “freeze dried strawberries” in the list of ingredients in Special K Strawberry Flavored Cereal. The added sugar and brown sugar syrup along with the encouragement to “do what’s delicious” contribute to food addiction denial as well as having the possibility of resulting in a binge. In addition to this, the idea of associating the cereal with real fruit as well as advertising the vitamins it contains while promising “healthy” food results in a “Happy Eating” portrayal that is dangerous to not only food addicts but to normal eaters as well since the sweetness of the product triggers a preference for more in normal eaters and a physical craving in food addicts (Food Addiction Institute 2022). UNHEALTHY PORTRAYALS OF HEALTH The marketing tricks and techniques outlined in this chapter are designed to imply a level of health to ultra-processed foods that does not exist. By associating an unhealthy product with whole, natural fruit through images in commercials, or highlighting the low sugar or fat aspects of the product, manufacturers attempt to convince consumers about the healthiness of their products when, as is the case with all ultra-processed foods, there is little that is healthy in these products. Though eating a bowl of sweet cereal, bag of popcorn, a strip of fruit leather, or a bowl of ice cream as a means of getting healthy can be attractive to the average person, for those addicted to food, it can be deadly by not only contributing to their denial of their disease but also creating foods that trigger physical cravings to eat more. By holding out the promise of health in advertisements for ultra-processed foods, a false message is presented to consumers, which is, in fact, the exact opposite result of eating these types of food creating a classic “Happy Eating” portrayal, in which the dangers of these foods are ignored. In the next chapter, the association of high intelligence with eating ultraprocessed foods will be examined.

Chapter 8

Eat and Be Smart

The announcer’s voice is quiet yet laced with anxiety as he asks, “Is Mrs. Rohde really a choosy mother? She’s been choosing the same peanut butter for eight years. Thinks it’s best but with the labels of the three leading peanut butters hidden, can she pick it out?” as a woman is shown in a grocery store setting tasting peanut butter after which she chooses jar A (Ewjxn Jiff 2019). When the announcer asks her why she chose that jar, she says it “tastes like real peanuts” before he tells her it’s Jif, and she says she doesn’t buy that brand (Ewjxn Jiff 2019). He then asks her if he gave her a free jar of peanut butter which one would she take and she says Jif as the announcer says that more “choosy mothers” are “choosing Jif” as the back of the label on the Jif jar is shown to reveal the slogan. In a similar commercial, two women are shown in a kitchen. One of them is making soup and the other brings in a bag of groceries telling her that she’s so choosy, yet she uses a less-than-good peanut butter, to which the woman replies that they’re all alike. The first woman convinces her to try Jif which she says is ground finely; after trying it the woman says how much better it tastes. In a later commercial with the same idea, a man is shown coming home from grocery shopping after which his wife asks if he got everything she wanted. He says yes and then pulls out a jar of Jif causing her to ask what that is. He tells her it’s Jif. He figures she’s so choosy that that’s what she wants but she tells him she already has a big-named peanut butter but he says he grew up on Jif. He has her taste both peanut butters, after which she says they have a new peanut butter and that she will send him shopping more often. Though the word “choosy” is used in these commercials, the idea is that those who are more intelligent choose Jif peanut butter. Though the “Choosy Mothers” campaign, which began in 1958, was discontinued by 1986, the impact it made continues. In his 2016 book, The 137

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Mind-Gut Connection, Dr. Emeran Mayer wrote about the ways in which advertising targets gut feelings with attention-grabbing techniques and promises of rewards “embedded smoothly and effortlessly into [consumers’] stored library of gut feelings and experiences” using the Jif “Choosy Mothers” slogan as an example (183). He wrote, Being choosy with regard to your children’s health is a gut feeling that most parents have; it’s laudable. Advertisers and other influences can hijack such basic gut feelings by taking advantage of the fact that you’re busy. You may consolidate and simplify information. Your gut-based desire to “be choosy when feeding your children” combines with the slogan “choosy moms choose Jif” in your brain to form the imperative to “choose Jif,” which is then mistaken for a gut feeling. (Mayer 2016, 183–184)

The idea of an advertising slogan for an ultra-processed food being confused with an intuitive gut feeling clearly illustrates the power of advertising and the influence it can have while the deep emotional attachment to the peanut butter as well as the use of it to seek emotional change in the form of nostalgia and self-esteem through using a superior product is an indicator of food addiction portrayals in advertising (Danowski 2019, 11). The intelligence food theme has long been an advertising technique used by ultra-processed food manufactures to promote their products. This has been done in a number of different ways, including associating the product with school, learning, and/or books. An early example of this is an advertisement for Shredded Wheat from 1927 which appeared in the September edition of McCall’s magazine. In the full-page advertisement, a woman is shown on the left side of the page waving from what appears to be a train. There are two men sitting with food behind her. She is dressed in a dark blue coat with a red hat and is waving a white handkerchief. The headline of the ad is “Off for school” (McCall’s 1927). There are two paragraphs of text below the headline. The first says, “The eager quest for knowledge, the elevating refinements of cultural contacts, the charm of enduring friendships—these are the pleasant memories of school-days that come with the radiant health of normal girlhood” (McCall’s 1927). The second says, Without health there is no joy in achievement. Health comes from right living and right eating. Shredded Wheat is a sane and satisfying food for study or play—so nutritious and so easily digested. It brings an alertness of mind and a buoyancy of spirit that make life worth living. Delicious for any meal with milk or fruits. (McCall’s 1927)

Underneath the text an illustration of two large shredded wheat squares in a bowl with milk beside a creamer and sugar holder. To the left of that is the

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name of the product, under which there is an illustration of two women talking, both of whom have suitcases. The promise of health as well as “alternes of mind and a buoyancy of spirit” can be seen as a remedy for low-grade sadness or depression which the cereal promises to heal, thus creating the portrayal of using food to seek emotional change and creating a deep emotional attachment to such a “smart” food, both of which indicate food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11).

“THE SWEETEST STORY EVER SOLD” An advertisement a few years later in 1941 for Life Savers candy includes images of books to both imply intelligence but also to sell a “Life Savers Sweet Story.” Underneath the headline “The Sweetest Story Ever Sold” are three images with book suggestions. The first is of three service men with the caption, “Is it ‘Little Women’? (Nope, but it is something the boys in camp’ll go for!)” (Granite-M 2022). The second image is of a child opening a book near a Christmas tree with the caption “Is it ‘Black Beauty’? (No, but the kids will love it!),” while the third image is of a woman hugging a man with a book behind his back in her hands and a caption “Is it ‘A Christmas Carol’? (No, but you’ll sing the praises of its breath-taking flavors)” (GraniteM 2021). The bottom two-thirds of the page includes a large image of a “Life Savers Book” both opened and closed near a Christmas tree with a white text box with the headline “What Book Is It?” and text says, “It’s a Life Savers Sweet Story” that “looks like a book yet inside you’ll find a sweet candy story in 12 delightful parts” in the form of Life Savers rolls (Granite-M 2022). The text goes on to call the book “a gift for everybody,” great to “put in Christmas stockings,” and to send “to the boys in camp” with a selling price of 49 cents (Granite-M 2022). The candy book was also featured in a 1949 advertisement, where it was called “a delightful book of dandy candy” (Mott’s Studio Vintage Ads 2022) as well as a 1973 ad, where it was deemed to be “the book that’s good enough to eat” with images of Santa at the top (RelicPaper 2023) and a 1987 ad, where it was identified as “the critics’ choice” (Vintage Paper Ads-Booth 2 2023). The candy book, which was introduced in 1935, is still currently available for purchase. The image of a book would also be used by the company in a 1978 commercial, which opens with a woman reading to her young son. They have a large book spread on both of their laps, and the woman yells saying that the wicked witch screamed, after which she holds her throat and tells her son, “Mommy’s mouth is awful dry” (FM1156 2017). The child then offers her a Life Savers, which she puts in her mouth. The mother says, “Hey, cherry. No wait. Banana,” to which the child replies, “It’s both, Mom. It’s swirl flavors.

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What about the witch?” (FM1156 2017). The mother tells him to “read it to Mommy,” to which he replies “Mouth’s awful dry,” after which the mother gives him a Life Saver (FM1156 2017). As the child begins to read, music with the lyrics, “Life Savers, a part of living,” grows louder and matching text is also shown in the lower portion of the screen (FM1156 2017). In all these advertisements, the use of school and books is made to convince consumers of the intelligence of selecting these products while at the same time reinforcing the idea of the customer’s own smartness in knowing a good product when they see it. For those addicted to food, the idea that they can be intelligent simply by purchasing and eating a product speaks to their desire to “figure out” why they can’t stop eating. Many food addicts believe that if they can simply try hard enough to find the answer, they will be magically cured of their addiction (Danowski and Lazaro 2000). Intelligencethemed advertisements reinforce this idea by working to convince consumers that they will become smarter by eating the product, thus contributing to food addict denial and the addict’s frequent unsuccessful attempts to control eating behavior.

“HAPPY EATING HABIT” The intelligence theme can also be seen in a 1942 Campbell’s Tomato Soup advertisement in which a nutritionist is shown teaching homemakers about tomatoes. An image of a woman holding a tomato while sitting at a table with a blackboard behind her and three women in front of her fills more than half of the full-page advertisement. On the blackboard behind her it says that tomatoes “help build sturdy bodies,” “are a good source of vitamins,” should be included “in meals regularly,” and that tomato soup is an “excellent hot dish for nutritious hot meals” (Stepping Stone Vintage Ads 2022). A small text box near the instructor’s hand has the headline, “Mother goes to school again!” and then reports that mothers everywhere are learning about nutrition in classes “that they must know to keep the ‘Family Front’ fit and strong,” while a larger text box near the bottom of the page proclaims that the soup has “more flavor value” with today’s “health-protective foods .  .  . more important than ever” (Stepping Stone Vintage Ads 2022). The ad goes on to discuss how the soup is “new and improved” with “more nourishment” but “the same familiar favorite” with “added health benefits” during “this busy wartime year” and encourages mothers to make the Campbell’s Tomato Soup “the family’s first choice” (Stepping Stone Vintage Ads 2022). Similarly, a 1945 advertisement for Campbell’s Vegetable Soup uses a different approach to the intelligence theme. The ad features an image of an attractive woman to the right ladling vegetable soup from a pot into a bowl

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with the headline, “Wouldn’t I be silly to make it myself?” with the text below noting that when she was a child, her mother used to make soup which took hours until one day when she was rushed she grabbed a can of Campbell’s to serve to a “not so easy to please” father who loved it (Liz 2021). The text goes on to note that the woman is now married and that “young marrieds all feel the same way” about soup making when Campbell’s Vegetable Soup is so “wonderful” and filled with fifteen different vegetables (Liz 2021). In this advertisement, buying an ultra-processed food rather than making a fresh one is portrayed as being smart, meaning those who are intelligent should buy canned soup. In line with this, a 1951 ad notes that “Every day, 27 million people share this happy eating habit. .  .  . Soup For Lunch,” going on to say that these people have “soup at home and at school” as well as “at business” with dessert, salad, or a sandwich (Liz 2021). The image in the ad is of a mother and a boy eating tomato soup at a table. The boy looks as if he is dressed for school. The text in a small box next to the image notes that soup is a “favorite noon hot dish” according to a “U.S. survey” and encourages mothers to “introduce your family to this happy eating habit” of having soup for lunch (Liz 2021). Three images of bowls filled with soup are included with one each of cream of chicken, tomato, and beef noodle soups. The use of the term “Happy Eating Habit” is worth noting as the company is encouraging lunch soup eating to become a “habit” that makes eating happy. In terms of the focus of this book, the “Happy Eating” in this case encourages mothers to feed their children an ultra-processed food each day without explaining or identifying the health consequences of eating these foods which are high in sodium and include sugar, and modified corn starch in the list of ingredients. While these ingredients can cause those addicted to food to binge (Food Addiction Institute 2022), the elevated sodium levels in the soups have been a concern for many health experts so much so that the company outlines its position on sodium at its website which begins with, “We are committed to offering consumers products that taste great and help them achieve their health and well-being goals” and goes on to mention the different products they offer, some of which are low and lower in sodium. In a section outlining the foundation of their position, the company notes that sodium “is important for the palatability, safety, and functionality of many foods” and that it “brings out the flavor” in foods. They also note that “sodium is required for a variety of physiological functions including maintenance of blood volume and blood pressure, acid-base balance, nerve conduction, and muscle function,” which is followed by an acknowledgment that sodium intake is too high. After this, the company points out that sodium intake is only one factor which affects health in addition to “other lifestyle and dietary factors” that include “body weight, overweight and obesity,

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excessive alcohol consumption, and inadequate intake of potassium, magnesium, and calcium,” noting a debate about sodium intake and whether or not it needs to be lower in all individuals. In the next section, they point out a preference in consumers for saltier foods so much so that when salt is lowered, people sometimes add it back in. They also note that “studies conducted in countries around the world have shown that when the sodium content of foods offered in the marketplace is reduced, sodium consumption within that region remains the same.” They also outline a strategy that involves lowering sodium “where feasible” while offering a variety of sodium levels in their products and working to maintain nutritional quality in products as well as using potassium salt to reduce the effect of sodium on blood pressure. It’s important to note that the acknowledgment of sodium intake being too high is part of a list with several justifications for the use of the product which include its importance in producing food, its essentialness for health, its place in consideration of other lifestyle choices, and the preference of consumers for saltier-tasting food. Many of these ideas are also found in denial statements by food addicts. For example, the idea that people will add sodium back in if it is taken out of their soup mimics the idea many food addicts have that if they eat something not on their food plans then the whole day is a waste so they may as well continue overeating (Danowski and Lazaro 2000). Additionally, the idea that sodium is important and essential also coincides with food addiction denial which allows sufferers to deny the dangers and effects eating certain foods have on them. As one food addict who weighed 328 pounds before getting into recovery points out, “I had convinced myself . . . that eating candy or sweets did not really make me gain weight. I thought I did not look that bad, and certainly not like I weighed more than 300 pounds” (Danowski and Lazaro 2000, 79).

“SMART SANDWICH-MAKERS” Another advertisement in which the intelligence theme is used was published in the January 1956 issue of Woman’s Day magazine. The ad, for Jane Parker bread, features five different types of sandwiches which are illustrated and include turkey, ham and cheese, bacon, lettuce, and tomato, roast beef, and pastrami. A little lower than halfway down the page is a white box with text, the headline of which is “The Best Thing That Ever Happened to a Sandwich . . .” under which in smaller print begins by saying, “Smart sandwich-makers know that the filling is only half the flavor! That’s why they rely on Jane Parker Bread to make their creations completely delightful!” (Woman’s Day 1956, 52). The text then goes on to encourage consumers to “discover” for themselves “the grand variety of wonderful Jane Parker Breads” which will

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make their sandwiches “special” with a “guarantee of quality” and every loaf “dated daily to insure freshness” (Woman’s Day 1956, 52). Following this, the flavors are mentioned which include white enriched bread, whole wheat, sour rye, pumpernickel, and Vienna bread. Below the text are the words Jane Parker in a larger red font followed by bread with an image of a loaf of white bread below it next to the A&P food stores logo with wording telling consumers they can find the bread at all A&P Stores except for those on the Pacific Coast. The Jane Parker label was used by the Great Atlantic & Pacific Tea Company, also known as A&P Food stores, to sell the company’s baked goods. Created as a “coined name-with Jane derived from the name of Tarzan’s mate,” the brand was used to sell a variety of baked goods exclusively at A&P Food stores (Sloane 1975, p. 33). The brand was introduced in the 1930s and continued to be sold exclusively at more than 16,000 A&P Food stores for over 80 years until the grocery store filed for bankruptcy in 2015 and eventually went out of business, leaving the Jane Parker brand missing from shelves until 2017, when two brothers, Chris and Alex Ronacher, purchased the brand and began producing some of the company’s products using the original recipes (Jane Parker 2023). Today, the company is known for its fruit and liqueur cakes, and artisanal baked goods. In the same issue of Woman’s Day, there are also three other advertisements which use the intelligence theme to make the manufacturers of the products appear smarter than others. The first of these is an ad for Heinz Strained Egg Yolks Baby Food which tells mothers that “There’s no easier way to give Baby needed protein, iron and vitamin A” than with the baby food and tells them to “ask your doctor” when to begin feeding this product to their children since their doctors know “our 87-year reputation for quality” (Woman’s Day 1956, 12). The second ad is for Hunt’s Tomato Paste which tells readers that “Hunt knows tomatoes like nobody else” and knows “how to pick the red-ripe, juicy best” as well as “how to cook them to perfection,” making the product different from others (Woman’s Day 1956, 20). The ad proclaims Hunt’s as the best as noted by an Italian woman in the ad who used it to make her homemade pizza. The last of these advertisements is for Swift’s Meats For Babies which tells readers that they’ve “found a way to strain these fine 100% meats to a wonderful new smoothness,” making them “slide right down,” “easy to swallow,” and “as digestible as milk” with “especially tempting” flavors (Woman’s Day 1956, 84). Unlike the Jane Parker ad, which used the intelligence theme to make consumers part of the “smart” group who purchased their products, the three other advertisements portray their products and companies as being the smart ones who know how to make special. These advertisements use the intelligence theme to attract food addicts who think they are “too smart” to actually be addicted to food. Those who

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are addicted “feel that they know better than the professional’s advice that they may be seeking, or the residential rehab [they believe] is not for them as they are just a bunch of losers that they cannot relate to or understand” (Bennett 2014), thus making the intelligence theme a tactic which attracts those addicted to food. The addictive ingredients in the products keep food addicts eating more and more of these ultra-processed products while the portrayals of deep emotional attachment to the products as well as the use of them to seek emotional change (feeling smarter) in the advertisements are indicators of food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11).

“THE SMART CLUB” Perhaps no other product taps into a food addict’s belief that they are smarter than others and can handle eating addictive foods without consequences than Smartfood Popcorn. In a series of commercials highlighting the “smartness” of eating the food, the company featured a “snacking genius” in the form of a young African American woman. The first of these opens with the young woman sitting on a sofa. She is dressed in a yellow blouse. There are yellow pillows on each side of her and in the background yellow sunflowers in a vase on the table next to yellow curtains, all of which highlight the yellow Smartfood logo on the bag of popcorn the woman is eating. On television, the host asks, “What is a synonym for hashtag?” as the woman replies, “Octothorpe” just before the contestant provides the same correct answer as a bell rings (Smartfood Popcorn 2021). After she finds out the answer is correct, the woman looks down into her bag of Smartfood and says, “Okay, Smartfood” as she smiles (Smartfood Popcorn 2021). She is next shown looking in a mirror holding a bowl of popcorn saying to herself, “One tutorial and boom—nailed it!” followed by her playing chess while eating popcorn and saying, “Check Mate, Bruh,” at which point a female announcer says, “You are what you eat. Welcome to the Smart Club” as the camera cuts to an image of the popcorn with the words, “Welcome to the Smart Club” on a yellow background (Smartfood Popcorn 2021). In a similar commercial from this series, the same African American woman is shown sitting on the same sofa with the yellow pillows. This time she is wearing a yellow shirt underneath a blue one. As before, she is holding a bag of Smartfood Popcorn and watching the same television show. The host asks, “What year was ‘OMG’ recorded?” to which she replies, “1917” just before the television contestant does (Smartfood 2022). The announcer tells the contestant the answer is correct and the woman on the sofa looks down at her bag of popcorn happily and says, “Okay, Smartfood” (Smartfood 2022). She is next shown sitting in a yellow chair with headphones on and holding a video game

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controller next to a bag of Smartfood. She says, “That’s what I call domination!” before she reaches into the bag for popcorn (Smartfood 2022). In the next scene, she is shown at the Regional Speech & Debate Championships concluding her presentation by saying, “And in conclusion, science” as she spreads her arms out and the audience applauds before a female announcer says, “You are what you eat. Join the Smart Club” as the words “Join the Smart Club” appear over a yellow background (Smartfood 2022). It’s worth noting that in the comments section of this YouTube video, Recon Loot said, “Addicted to this popcorn,” to which Vikas Kumar replied with three hearts (Smartfood 2022). Throughout this series of commercials and in the marketing of this product, the company gives consumers the idea that if they eat this popcorn, they will be smart. This idea is reflected at the company’s website which tells consumers, “Air-popped popcorn tossed in delicious white cheddar cheese. It’s okay to hug this bag. No one will judge.” The ingredients in the cheddar flavor are popcorn, vegetable oil (corn, canola, and/or sunflower oil), cheddar cheese (milk, cheese cultures, salt, enzymes), whey, buttermilk, natural flavor, and salt, while the ingredients in the Flamin’ Hot White Cheddar flavor are popcorn, vegetable oil (corn, canola, and/or sunflower oil), maltodextrin (made from corn), buttermilk, cheddar cheese (milk, cheese cultures, salt, enzymes), whey, natural flavors, salt, romano cheese (cow’s milk, cheese cultures, salt, enzymes), potassium chloride, artificial color (red 40 lake, yellow 6 lake, yellow 6, yellow 5), yeast extract, citric acid, lactose, whey protein concentrate, and sodium caseinate. Furthermore, “despite corn being a whole grain, Smartfood popcorn is not a healthy snack. This is because it contains highcalorie ingredients, such as sugar, corn syrup, cheese, and different types of oils” (Quintero 2022). Smartfood was included in a list of “lies you’re fed” about healthy foods that aren’t noting that “Three cups of Smartfood (white cheddar) popcorn have . . . 290 calories and 525 mg of sodium” (Rosenbloom 2017). Additionally, “Smartfood’s additional vegetable oil, cheese and salt take this from a natural, healthy snack to one that’s fat and salt-laden. The excess fat and salt make you crave more” (Reisman 2017). Using the word “crave” highlights the addictive quality of the product, and also illustrates that even normal eaters experience cravings while the portrayals of using the product to seek emotional change (feel smarter) and a deep emotional attachment to the food (“It’s okay to hug this bag.”) in the ads and at the website are indicators of food addiction behavior (Danowski 2019, 11).

“WHEN YOU WANT IT, YOU GOTTA HAVE IT” A commercial from 2016 highlights the addictive nature of Smartfood while at the same time using the intelligence theme. In the fifteen-second

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commercial, a woman arrives home yelling, “Hello,” to which no one answers (Smartfood TV Spot 2016). She immediately puts her coat and briefcase on the counter and reaches into a large cookie jar to grab a hidden bag of Smartfood Popcorn as she smiles to herself. She dances into the family room holding the bag, cheering, and smiling as she looks lovingly into the bag at which point a female announcer says, “When you want it, you gotta have it. Smartfood.” as the camera cuts to shot of four bags of Smartfood with the White Cheddar Blanc flavor open and spilled out in front of a hunk of cheddar cheese with the words “Smartfood hits the spot!” above it (Smartfood TV Spot 2016). The name of this commercial is “Smart Stash” which, along with the “gotta have it” urgency, reflects characteristics of food addiction (Food Addiction Institute 2022). As previously noted, hiding food, eating alone, and urgently needing to eat are all symptoms of food addiction (Food Addiction Institute 2022). This portrayal combined with the addictive ingredients in Smartfood will result in those addicted to food being unable to control their physical cravings for this product. The celebratory nature of the woman happily dancing around her house because she is alone and can eat her “Smart Stash” without anyone else seeing reflects the nature of food addiction in the practice of stealing, hiding, and hoarding food and also provides permission for those addicted to food to do the same. In other words, in a true “Happy Eating” portrayal, it normalizes and encourages addictive behaviors by taking advantage of those who are addicted to food while also portraying a deep emotional attachment to the product as well as a means of seeking emotional change, both indicators of food addiction portrayals (Danowski 2019, 11).

“SWAP YOUR POP” A more recent commercial moves away from the idea of Smartfood making eaters intelligent and encourages them, instead, to make “smart” choices. The commercial opens with two bags of Smartfood. One is the white cheddar flavor, and the other is the sea salt flavor. At the top of the screen are the words, “Simply Smartfood,” which reflect the word “Simply” on the bags (Comments on Commercials 2023). A female announcer’s voice says, “Swap your pop for more flavorful popcorn. Simply Smartfood white cheddar and sea salt has only 50 calories or less per cup and no artificial flavors or GMOs so make the swap to Simply Smartfood” (Comments on Commercials 2023). As she speaks, each bag is shown with popcorn kernels flying around them with the words, “Swap your pop to a more flavorful popcorn” appearing above the bags (Comments on Commercials 2023). The ingredients in the sea salt flavor are popcorn, expeller-pressed sunflower oil, and sea salt while the ingredients in the white cheddar flavor are popcorn, sunflower oil, whey, maltodextrin

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(made from corn), cheddar cheese (milk, cheese cultures, salt, enzymes), and less than 2 percent of the following: salt, natural flavors, lactic acid, citric acid, and yeast extract. It’s also worth noting that while the commercial advertises only 50 calories a cup for the white cheddar flavor, the serving size on the package is three cups for a total of 150 calories with 8 grams of fat. The idea of “swapping your pop” for something with the word “simply” before the product which includes “smart” in the name is worth exploring as it relates to food addiction. Since the disease of addiction results in those afflicted believing they are more intelligent than others (Bennett 2014), the idea of eating foods that are portrayed in advertisements to make them even smarter is an appealing thing for food addicts. Not only do they get to satisfy their physical cravings, if only for a very short time, but they can also believe by doing so that they are becoming even smarter than those who may be working against them to combat their denial and encourage recovery. Additionally, the ingredients in these “smart” foods cause the addict to seek more and more, thus resulting in a large financial gain for the manufacturers of these products—a direct “hit” in attracting those consumers who will purchase the majority of their foods.

“BUTTER JUST GOT BETTER” Another product that uses the intelligence theme in advertising as well as in its name is Smart Balance, which includes blended butter sticks among its products. In an ad from 2013, a male announcer says, “Butter just got better” as a woman stands in a white, bright kitchen holding a muffin and smiling (Smart Balance 2013). In front of her on the counter is a basket filled with muffins next to a stick of Smart Balance Blended Butter Sticks with the package to the right of that. There are also flowers and a coffee cup. The announcer continues, “So try Smart Balance’s newest butter and canola oil blend, real butter with a naturally sourced ingredient that helps block cholesterol in the butter” as the camera cuts to a shot of butter being spread on toast, then used in a stir fry then on a muffin with the words, “Helps block cholesterol in the butter*” under which are the words in smaller print at the bottom, “*Contains 100 mg plant sterols to help block absorption of cholesterol in the butter” (Smart Balance 2013). He then says, “And try Smart Balance sticks for baking” as the camera cuts to a woman near a beach in exercise clothing (Smart Balance 2013). As the woman begins to do a yoga pose, white lines follow her arms to form a heart as a woman sings, “Put love in your heart” (Smart Balance 2013). The ingredients in Smart Balance Original Buttery Spread are oil blend (canola, palm, soybean, olive oils), water, less than 2 percent of salt, whey,

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natural and artificial flavors, sunflower lecithin, lactic acid, vitamin A palmitate, beta-carotene color, vitamin D, monoglycerides of vegetable fatty acids (emulsifier), potassium sorbate, calcium disodium EDTA (to preserve freshness). While some nutrition experts note that Smart Balance can be healthier than other alternative ultra-processed foods, still others do not agree. As Dr. Andrew Weil notes, While Smart Balance may be better than most margarine—if you adhere to the specified “balance” of fats in the rest of your diet—my views about margarine remain unchanged. It is still fat, mostly unhealthy fat, and a highly processed food. The less processed food you eat, the better. (2002)

Of note is Dr. Weil’s comment about adhering to the “balance of fats” daily. He points out at his website that in order for the “good” HDL cholesterol to be raised and the “bad” LDL lowered by eating the product, consumers would need to “limit intake of dietary fat to 30 percent of daily calories and keep consumption of dietary cholesterol to under 300 mg per day” to maintain “the same blend of saturated, monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats as in Smart Balance” which, according to him, is isn’t easy to manage on a daily basis (2002). Also of note is the fact that the name includes the word “smart” which, as previously mentioned, targets a food addict’s belief that they are more intelligent than others (Bennett 2014) and can find a way to eat whatever they want without experiencing health or any other consequences. The idea that using a buttery spread could reduce a food addict’s cholesterol, and thus in their minds make them healthier, encourages them to overeat not only this product but something on which they would spread it such as bread or muffins creating ideal circumstances for a binge (Danowski and Lazaro 2000). The portrayals of deep emotional attachment to the product (“Put love in your heart”) as well as the seeking of emotional change (feeling smarter and loved) are both food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11). In another commercial for a Smart Balance Product, which aired on April 2007 during Lingo on the Game Show Network, the company introduced “new Smart Balance Omega Peanut Butter, the first all-natural peanut butter with 1,000 grams of Omega-3s per serving” and also “made with special deep roasted peanuts for extra flavor” as well as “so soft, it’s really spreadable” (GSN Rewind 2020). As the words were spoken, the screen was first filled with two jars of peanut butter and then one with the jar surrounded by peanuts in the shell. The camera cuts to an image of a woman’s hand putting peanut butter on a slice of bread and then to an image of a portion of the jar with text the announcer reads, “With no hydrogenated oil, no trans-fat, no refined sugar,” before which the camera cuts to an image of a woman licking peanut butter off her finger as she next hands lunch bags to kids followed by

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a shot of three people watching a movie then to a man reading the paper and eating a sandwich as the announcer continues, “it’s a great source of protein for school lunches and late-night movies, a quick bite on the go. New Smart Balance Omega Peanut Butter. It tastes great but please don’t tell the kids it’s healthy” as two jars of peanut butter are shown with a family seated at a table eating in the background (GSN 2020). It’s worth noting that the benefits of the peanut butter (“really spreadable” and “no hydrogenated oil, no trans-fat, no refined sugar”) are advertised directly before there is a shot of a woman putting her finger on a knife with peanut butter and licking the peanut butter off her finger. This type of behavior is consistent with food addiction as many times during the preparation of food, the addict is unable to wait to taste the food (Danowski and Lazaro 2000). The urgency of needing to have a food “fix” can be seen in not waiting to taste the item before actually eating what is being prepared. An image such as this can be seen as giving food addicts permission to eat peanut butter out of the jar. The positioning of the “benefits” of the product directly before this scene can also be used to contribute to denial of the consequences of eating the product directly from the jar or otherwise. In other words, the order of scenes in this commercial, the fact that all the people shown are of normal weight, and the list of benefits from eating “omega peanut butter” work together to create a “Happy Eating” portrayal aimed to attract those addicted to food and include food addiction portrayals (Danowski 2019, 11). The ingredients in the peanut butter also work to trigger a binge in those addicted to food as well as normal eaters with a preference for sweetness. The ingredients in the creamy type are peanuts, sugar, palm oil, flaxseed oil, salt, and molasses, while the ingredients in the chunky version are peanut butter (peanuts, dried cane syrup, salt, molasses) and oil blend (palm fruit and flaxseed oils). Both versions contain two different types of sugar with the creamy including sugar and molasses and the chunky having dried cane syrup and molasses in it as well as high levels of salt, all of which can trigger a binge in food addicts. At the manufacturer’s website, the focus is not on these things but on the taste and “health” of the product, noting “the rich flavor of deep-roasted peanuts” along with “the benefits of omega-3s to create an irresistibly smooth and creamy Smart Balance® peanut butter you can feel good about. No hydrogenated oils, trans fat, gluten, or lactose—just all the goodness of peanut butter with flaxseed oil.” Additionally, it’s noted that the product contains “300 mg omega-3 ALA per serving (18% of 1,600 mg DV)” and “8 g protein per serving.” Despite this, Smart Balance peanut butter is an ultra-processed food that, as one nutrition expert points out, has added “sugars and salt, both of which are unnecessary” (Harlan 2022).

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IS SMART REALLY SMART? The use of the intelligence theme both in individual commercials for specific products and in the name of various so-called “healthier” versions of different types of foods is a marketing tool designed to make consumers feel good about eating products that are, by the nature of being ultra-processed foods, inherently unhealthy for them. The tactic of outlining the health benefits of these foods while shying away from addressing the consequences of eating them encourages not only food addiction denial (Werdell 2022) but denial in those who are normal eaters, thus allowing overconsumption of these products since they are advertised to be healthy. Therein lies the danger of using the intelligence theme in the marketing of ultra-processed foods—if some is healthy than more is better which is blatantly false as well as dangerous to the health of those who eat these products. The idea of equating love with ultra-processed foods in advertisements for these products will be examined in the next chapter.

Chapter 9

Eat This Because I Love You

The idea of equating love with food is nothing new and has been prevalent in modern advertising for over a century in one form or another. As noted previously, Parkin in her groundbreaking study of food advertisements and gender roles stated, Advertisers’ most fundamental message to women, and one that underscored all others, was that food is love [sic]. In addition to more expected appeals to taste and quality, advertisers touted their products’ love value. They encouraged women to show their love for others with food and promised that women could earn their family’s love by serving certain foods. (2006, 30)

According to Parkin, the love theme in food advertisements can be seen beginning in 1902 in an ad titled “Like Mother Used to Make” for mince pies (Parkin 2006, 43). “THE THING TO DO” The love theme, most naturally, is especially prevalent in February during Valentine’s Day and was seen regularly in advertisements for Whitman’s Chocolate Samplers. One of these appeared in the February 10, 1934, issue of The Saturday Evening Post with the headline “The thing to do . . . take . . . give . . . send Whitman’s Chocolates” in a large red heart surrounded by two bouquets of flowers on a page bordered by a thick red rectangle with white lace over it (John’s Coin’s & Collectibles Bazaar 2023). Underneath the heart is an image of a man dressed in a tuxedo handing a woman in a formal red dress a box of chocolates in a white heart. Between them are two paragraphs 151

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of text which begins with, “Candy is the acceptable ambassador from any man to any girl on Valentine’s Day . . . and most welcome of all is a box of Whitman’s Chocolates” and noting the “holiday air and inviting charm” of the “handsome box” and “fresh, delicious contents” as well as the “acknowledged superiority” of the product to say “My best to you” with a package “for every taste . . . at 25¢ to $7.50” (John’s Coin’s & Collectibles Bazaar 2023). At the bottom of the page are images of two different types of Samplers with pricing information between which is the NRA log with the words “We do our part” underneath which are the words, “Valentine Day • February 14th” (John’s Coin’s & Collectibles Bazaar 2023). Another ad for the Whitman’s Sampler at Valentine’s Day appeared a few years later on February 11, 1939, in The Saturday Evening Post. Titled “The Way to a Woman’s Heart!” the full page featured a large image of a man dressed in a suit holding a box of chocolates behind his back as he faces a seated woman in a formal lavender colored dress. Above his elbow and underneath the headline on the left side of the page is an image of a heart-shaped box of chocolates with a red cover and another one beneath that with a blue cover. Underneath this are the words, “Only hearts marked Whitman’s contain Whitman’s Chocolates” and then information about purchasing “Hand-Painted Hearts” for “$1.50 and $3.00” and “Red Satin Hearts” for “$2.00 and $5.00” with others at “25¢ to $5.00” (Tias 2023). Below this is an image of an open box of chocolates with two hearts on the cover. The box is called “The Fairhill” and sells for a dollar with a description below that calls it an “outstanding box of candy at any price” with Whitman quality through and through” (Tias 2023). On the right side of the page near the seated woman is the date of Valentine’s Day and two paragraphs of text pointing out that “Happiness is the sum of little things,” the biggest of which is “thoughtfulness by a man to the maid who means much to him” and that “A woman never forgets the man who remembers” Valentine’s Day with the “appropriate way to honor the day” being with a Whitman’s “the chocolates she knows are so fine” with a gift “that is right to the heart” (Tias 2023). Underneath this is another image of an open Sampler box with pricing of $1.50 and information about the contents next to wording encouraging men to “Give Whitman’s Chocolates” because “It’s the thoughtful thing to do!” (Tias 2023). “A WOMAN NEVER FORGETS THE MAN WHO REMEMBERS” Advertising for Whitman’s in The Saturday Evening Post was not limited to Valentine’s Day, however. In the August 29, 1942, issue, a full-page

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advertisement featured an image of a smiling woman holding a box of candy over a man’s shoulder as she hugs him. The man is kissing her cheek. The wording, which is nearly two-thirds of the way down the page, says, “Put yourself in his place remember with a”—which appears next to the box of candy the woman is holding (Period Paper 2016). At the bottom of the page in all capital letters are the words, “A woman never forgets the man who remembers” (Period Paper 2016). Though the “Woman Never Forgets” slogan would continue to be used, other ads were also published during this time, including one in the May 27, 1950, issue of The Saturday Evening Post, which features a background of various types of fresh fruit with the headline, “The sweets of all the world. . . . Yours in your Whitman’s Sampler, The Best-known, best-liked box of candy in the world” (theback6 2023). In nearly the center of the page is a paragraph of text saying that the uniqueness of the Whitman’s Sampler is “not the superlative quality alone—though it is that, first of all. It’s also the really wonderful variety of rare and tempting centers for which Whitman’s search the world—the luscious fruits, the crisp nuts, the cool mints, the many-flavored creams” under which the words, “Have you given a Sampler lately—to a loved one, to a friend, or to yourself” appear (theback6 2023). Below this is an open box of the candy above the words, “A woman never forgets the man who remembers” (theback6 2023). In the July 26, 1952, issue of The Saturday Evening Post, the “Woman Never Forgets” tagline would be combined with a new campaign which asked, “Here’s how I remember! Why don’t YOU? [sic]” and would feature actor Danny Kaye telling readers that “A Whitman’s Sampler has helped me to do a lot of remembering” to the “so many people” who “did so many wonderful things to help me” when he needed it making him “acquire the Whitman’s Sampler habit early” when “money was scarce” so that he could find a way as “a youngster in show business” to thank those who helped him and now in Hollywood, too as a “welcome way to acknowledge those little but all-important courtesies and obligations” (Private Collection). The bottom third of the page shows an image of Kaye handing actress Patsy Bangs a chocolate on the set of Hans Christian Andersen, while the right shows an image of an open box of chocolates. At the bottom of the page are the words, “A woman never forgets the man who remembers” (Private Collection). In addition to Kaye, Humphrey Bogart would be featured in a July 24, 1954, advertisement using both the “Why don’t you?” question with the “Woman Never Forgets” slogan from a campaign that also feature John Wayne, Bob Hope, Jimmy Stewart, and Elizabeth Taylor, who were all paid with boxes of candy and a mention of their latest films in the advertisements (CSP 2012).

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“MOST ADVERTISED BOX OF CHOCOLATES IN HISTORY” The first Whitman’s Samplers were produced in 1912 with the original yellow packing that has an “aged yet ageless” look “giving first time buyers a sense of confidence in their gift choice” (CSP 2012). When it was introduced, the Sampler was the first candy box to contain an index helping consumers to identify each chocolate flavor, the first packaged in the United States to be wrapped in cellophane, and the first to be sold at fine drugstores nationally which resulted in 19,000 independent drug stores carrying the product by 1915 (CSP 2012). The Sampler has been called “the most advertised box of chocolates in history” and has been used by presidents as a gift to those coming to the White House or on Airforce One complete with a specially designed presidential tin (CSP 2012). During the Second World War, handwritten notes offering encouragement to those serving were included in boxes of chocolates shipped overseas and also to those serving overseas after the September 11, 2001, attacks (CSP 2012). As the oldest continuous producer of boxed chocolates in America, Whitman’s has consistently used the love theme in its advertising and encouraged others to show affection by gifting the Samplers to others. A 2013 commercial targeted at male athletes clearly illustrates the love theme. As the words “Valentine’s Day Winning Play” are drawn on the screen, a male coach’s voice says, “Listen up, men! There’s only one play this Valentine’s Day.” at which point the screen shows the “Valentine’s Day Winning Play” at the top with o’s on the left and x’s on the right with a big heart with the word “Chocolate” in the middle as he continues, “Women want chocolate and which heart always wins the big game—the Sampler” (Whitman’s Sampler TV Spot 2013). At this point, the heart is filled with red coloring with the word “Sampler” in the middle and arrows are drawn from the x’s and o’s pointing to the heart as the announcer continues, “Now get out there and score” as crowd cheering noises, which were previously low in the background, become louder until a different announcer says, “The perfect Valentine’s Play and a proud sponsor of college lacrosse” as images of a heart-shaped box of candy and the traditional yellow Sampler are shown next to two lacrosse sticks. It’s worth noting that the presence of a heart implies the love theme, yet the idea of getting “out there” to score can be seen as having sexual connotations. Another commercial posted on YouTube in 2018 also employs the love theme. The commercial opens with an announcer saying, “In the 1920s, the best job a kid could have was delivering Whitman’s five Sampler varieties” as images of a young boy dressed in yellow with a Whitman’s basket on his bicycle is shown first riding then stopping at a house where he says to the

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woman who answers the door, “Mrs. Bennett, this is from Mr. Bennett” to which the woman replies, “All chewy, crisp. One for you?” as the boy takes a chocolate (FM1156 2018 Whitman’s). At subsequent deliveries of the chocolates first to an older man and then a graduating woman, he is offered a chocolate from each, at which point the announcer says, “Yeah, just one. Give the ones you love the ones they love. Whitman’s Samplers” with the final shot of the five boxes with the words, “The chocolate store in a box” underneath (FM1156 2018 Whitman’s). The use of the love theme to promote highly addictive chocolates can encourage not only food addiction denial but magnification of the loneliness and isolation many food addicts feel. Those who are addicted to food, oftentimes, are isolated and feel unloved as well as deeply flawed and undeserving of romantic relationships (Danowski and Lazaro 2000). In part, some of this is due to the size of their bodies, yet also a result of the deep feelings of selfhatred they experience at not being able to control their food intake in a world that labels them “weak” and “slovenly.” Advertisements featuring romantic gestures involving chocolate can create deep longing in food addicts for both the chocolate and the relationship. The result of this is an increase in low self-esteem, which, for a food addict, will result in bingeing on a product that promises to bring love into their lives where they feel they have none. The advertisements for the product include using food to seek emotional change (feeling loved) and representations of deep emotional attachment to the food (using it to show love), both of which are characteristics of food addiction portrayals (Danowski 2019, 11).

“MADE WITH MAGIC. LOVED BY FAMILIES.” Chocolates aren’t the only product using the love theme in advertisements. A 1980s commercial for Skippy Peanut butter encourages mothers to “Put a little love in lunch with Skippy” underneath a photo of a smiling young boy holding a piece of bread with a heart drawn in the peanut butter and one bite taken out of the corner (Retro AdArchives 2023). In the text of the advertisement, mothers are told that “Serving Skippy is a loving way to give your kids the good nutrition they need” since the peanut butter is “the only national brand to give them high protein and less sugar,” making it “a combination any mother can love” as well as “good nutrition straight from the heart” (Retro AdArchives 2023). The ingredients in Skippy Creamy Peanut Butter, which is the one featured in the ad, are roasted peanuts, sugar, hydrogenated vegetable oil (cottonseed, soybean and rapeseed oil) to prevent separation, salt. The use of sugar as the second ingredient as well as the idea that serving children an ultra-processed food is a means of showing love targets not only

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food addicts who are desperate to experience feelings of love but also normal eaters feeling nostalgic for younger days, making it a lethal combination as well as a “Happy Eating” portrayal designed to downplay the consequences of eating peanut butter. The idea of evoking feelings of familiar love by eating ultra-processed foods is also shown in a 2020 commercial for Keebler Fudge Stripes Cookies. The commercial begins with Keebler Head Elf Ernie looking with binoculars out of his cookies shop located in a giant tree at a family. As two children and a dog run onto a patio to their mother and father Ernie says, “Wowzers, what a special family. Special like my Fudge Stripes” as the mother uncovers a package of the cookies and the children are surprised and happy (Keebler Fudge Stripes TV Spot 2020). Ernie continues, “Made with real original Keebler fudge” as an image of fudge being stirred and then dripped on a cookie is shown before the camera cuts back to the family who are laughing and eating cookies as Ernie says, “Only elves can make cookies this good. Keebler. Made with magic. Loved by families” as these words appear above an image of a package of cookies with some on a plate and a hand reaching for one (Keebler Fudge Stripes TV Spot 2020). It’s worth noting that the insertion of an ultra-processed food into a family spending time together as well as the idea that the cookies are “loved by families” creates an unhealthy emotional attachment to a product (Danowski 2019, 11) which has nothing to do with love. The assertion that “only elves make cookies this good” can be seen as a play on the idea of mothers baking cookies for their children. In other words, it appears as if the old-fashioned idea of mother’s baked products being the best has been replaced by the “magic” of elves who are more skilled at this process, resulting in a blatant attempt by a cookie manufacturer to ingratiate itself into families across the country. For those addicted to food, family relationships can be problematic due to the isolation of addiction and the sometimes-volatile nature of the addictive personality (Food Addiction Institute 2022). Being drawn into the “magic” of the “special family” shown in the ad can create a mistaken belief that eating the product will make them feel loved in a way they may have believed they never were as children and thus result in a deep emotional attachment to the product (Danowski 2019, 11). For those not addicted to food, the idea that this product can bring about happy, “magical” times with their families can be provocative at the very least.

LIMITED-EDITION HEARTS Expression of the love theme is not limited to portrayals in advertisements alone but sometimes can be evidenced in the products themselves. For

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example, a 2023 commercial for Limited-Edition Cheerios with heart shapes opens with an older Black man and an older White woman eating breakfast at the table with a box of Honey Nut Cheerios on it. The woman lifts a spoonful then says, “Oh, hearts” as she smiles at the spoon as Buzz, the Honey Nut Cheerios animated bumble bee, says, “Yup, they’re back,” after which the woman asks who that was (Cheerios 2023). The man replies, “Buzz. He appears whenever you eat Honey Nut Cheerios,” to which the woman replies, “Oh, like a genie?” and the guy sarcastically says, “Sure” (Cheerios 2023). The woman then asks Buzz if he grants wishes to which he replies, “Um, I can grant you a bowl of Honey Nut Cheerios which can help lower cholesterol,” after which the man says he wishes to eat his cereal in peace, and the woman says, “You are wasting wishes” as Buzz tries to tell her that can’t actually grant wishes and she continues saying, “I wish I could forget what my neighbor looks like in his biking shorts,” after which she makes a gagging sound (Cheerios 2023). The next shot is of five different flavors of boxed Cheerios with two bowls and two spoons in them and the words, “Happy heart shapes back for a limited time” as the man says, “I don’t think the Bee can help you with that” (Cheerios 2023). In addition to the heart-shaped cereal as a means of expressing love both for the product and for those who eat or serve it, the portrayal in this commercial of a modern couple eating breakfast together implies romantic love. The release of the cereal for a limited time creates a “specialness” to the product that may not have existed if it weren’t for the marketing trick of restricted release. The reference to the neighbor in biking shorts brings attention to an unattractive body issue while subtly offering Cheerios as the solution to weight loss without actually coming straight out and saying it. The hidden message in this commercial is that if you eat Cheerios, you will look better in biking shorts than the couple’s neighbor, thus making you, and the couple in the commercial, superior to the man who doesn’t know about heart-shaped Cheerios. According to the Cheerios website, the heartshaped cereal is designed to “remind Americans that living a happy, hearthealthy lifestyle can be fun, easy and delicious.” While this may be true, it’s important to note that the heart-shaped cereal was released in February just prior to Valentine’s Day, making it an obvious connection to the emotion of love. February is American Heart Month, a time to bring awareness to cardiovascular health; however, as previously mentioned, Cheerios products are an unhealthy, ultra-processed food that encourages addictive behaviors in food addicts while also promoting food addiction denial. The marketing of Cheerios heart-shaped products serves not only to remind consumers of their “love” for the cereal but also the so-called “heart health” they can attain by eating them. The heart shapes can result in a deep emotional attachment to an ultra-processed food as well as an encouraging use of it

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to relieve emotional discomfort or seek emotional change (Danowski 2019, 11). The ingredients in heart-shaped Cheerios are whole grain oats, corn starch, sugar, salt, tripotassium phosphate, vitamin E (mixed tocopherols) added to preserve freshness, vitamins and minerals: calcium carbonate, iron and zinc (mineral nutrients), vitamin C (sodium ascorbate), A B vitamin (niacinamide), vitamin B6 (pyridoxine hydrochloride), vitamin A (palmitate), vitamin B1 (thiamin mononitrate), A B vitamin (folic acid), vitamin B12, vitamin D3. It’s worth noting that in 2009, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) issued a warning to Cheerios cereal manufacturers regarding the claims made about heart health benefits. Though the company has spent much time and effort working to massage a heart-healthy message for its products, the nonprofit Green Business Network concluded the following about the healthiness of Cheerios. [T]he brand across the board does not live up to the positive public perception and nutritious message that General Mills [parent company of Cheerios] has cultivated through years of advertisements, loose health claims, and public relations strategies. For people interested in eating for optimal health, consuming whole foods and staying away from processed products are good basic guidelines to follow. The lengthiness of the Cheerios ingredient lists and the inclusion of unrecognizable synthetic ingredients, unnecessary and controversial food additives, cheap sweeteners, and unwholesome ingredients are directly inconsistent with those basic health rules. (GMO Inside 2013)

The company came under scrutiny from the FDA for some of its health claims in which “the agency said statements that the product is ‘clinically proven to help lower cholesterol’ make the product a drug under federal law” and noting that if Cheerios wanted to continue to make these claims they would need to file a new-drug application (Dooren 2009). In addition to this, “the FDA said some of the health claims about reducing cancer and heartdisease risk don’t comply with agency rules” (Dooren 2009). Since then, the company no longer claims that consumers can “lower your cholesterol 4 percent in six weeks” and now uses the word “can” in advertising and at its website saying that Cheerios “can help lower cholesterol as part of a hearthealthy diet” due to the “soluble fiber from whole grain oats, which can help lower cholesterol as part of a heart-healthy diet.” For those addicted to food, the heart-shaped Cheerios, “cheap sweeteners,” and salt in the ingredients target both the emotional and physiological aspects of addiction. In addition to, as the company claims, reminding Americans about heart health, the heart-shaped cereal also symbolizes love, something which many addicted to food feel they lack in their lives, both love from others and self-love (Danowski and Lazaro 2000). Taking part in healthy,

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loving relationships is much more challenging, if not impossible, for those with any type of addiction. For those with food addictions, the challenge can be even greater in romantic relationships due to body image issues and the deep shame many experience about the size of their bodies (Food Addiction Institute 2022). For them, eating heart-shaped cereal may be seen as their only hope of bringing the love they so desire into their lives. Physiologically, eating the sugar-filled cereal can trigger a binge which makes it nearly, if not, impossible to stop eating the product. The combination of emotional and physical aspects of this product poses a danger for those addicted to food and can also be problematic for normal eaters as almost all ultra-processed foods are.

CANDY CONVERSATION HEARTS A similar example of the love theme being present in the product itself are candy conversation hearts, known as Sweethearts. The small, heart-shaped candies, which have sayings on them such as “Be Mine,” “I Love You,” “Kiss Me,” and “Hug Me,” were originally introduced by the New England Confectionary Company in 1902, which later went out of business in 2018, was rescued by the Spangler Candy Company, and began production again in 2020 (Robicelli 2023). An ad for the hearts at the Spangler Candy website features a photo of the product with the headline, “Sweethearts® are the sweetest way to celebrate Valentine’s Day! These iconic heart-shaped candies have been exchanged between classmates, friends and loved ones for more than a century,” thus reinforcing the love theme as well as the practice of giving heart-shaped candy to friends and family as the “sweetest way” to celebrate. The ingredients in Sweethearts candy are sugar, corn syrup, corn starch, dextrose, gelatin, glycerin, natural and artificial flavors, vegetable gums (tragacanth, xanthan, and arabic), and FD&C colors (yellow 5, blue 1, red 3, red 40 [contains soy lecithin], yellow 6), thus making them nearly almost all sugar or sugar products. As with the heart-shaped Cheerios, the powerful joining of sugar and the emotional reminder of love can trigger a binge for those addicted to food (Danowski and Lazaro 2000), and even for those who are normal eaters with a preference for sweet taste. The idea of using an ultraprocessed food to express emotions also creates an emotional dependence on a sugar-filled product. One of the biggest barriers to food addiction recovery is the food addict’s inability to express emotions in a healthy way. For many, this results in bingeing as an attempt to reach a numb state of being where troubling emotions are squashed. For others, the idea of receiving love is unfathomable due to the intense self-hatred that comes with addictive behaviors. Either way, the use of sugar-filled foods to numb emotions encourages

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addictive behaviors while the ads include food addiction portrayals of relieving emotional discomfort and deep emotional attachment to the product (Danowski 2019, 11).

“I LOVE BREAD” In addition to producing products that reflect the love theme, some food manufacturers direct the love theme at their products in advertisements. A powerful example of this is from a Nature’s Pride bread advertisement posted on YouTube in 2011. Throughout the commercial, a song is played. The song composed and produced by Music Beast, begins with lyrics, “So in love” as a woman is shown in a kitchen cutting a sandwich in half on a countertop that includes an opened loaf of Nature’s Pride Wheat Bread, lettuce, a red pepper, and a glass of ice tea with a lemon slice (Music Beast 2011). As she finishes cutting the sandwich, the camera zooms in on the loaf of bread as the word “love” is sung, after which the woman is shown blissfully eating her sandwich with her eyes closed while the words, “I’m so in love with you” are heard (Music Beast 2011). There is an extreme close-up of the woman as she bites into the sandwich and then a cut to a shot of the loaf of bread, after which she continues to eat the sandwich with a blissful expression on her face as the words, “And there is nothing that this crazy world could ever do” as text on the screen appears to the left of the screen saying, “No one every says ‘Mmmm sodium stearoyl lactylate’” before an announcer says over the song which continues to play in the background, “Nature’s Pride Bread. No artificial additives or ingredients. Just 100% nature, 100% delicious bread” as the camera cuts to a shot of three loaves of bread with the text “100% Natural. 100% Delicious” at the top of the screen (Music Beast 2011). In a similar manner, a 2016 commercial uses this love of bread to promote a popular diet program. In an ad for Weight Watchers, celebrity talk show host and part owner of Weight Watchers Oprah Winfrey begins a commercial for the program by saying, “This is the joy for me. I love bread” as she waves her arms out in front of her in a dramatic manner and then continues, “I love bread. I just now manage it. I don’t deny myself bread. I have bread every day. I have bread every day” (Weight Watchers TV Spot 2016). The camera fades to the word “weightwatchers” in white font on a black background and then back to Winfrey as she continues, “That’s the genius of this program. I lost 26 pounds and I have eaten bread every single day” (Weight Watchers TV Spot 2016). As she finishes speaking, the camera cuts to a black screen with white font that says, “The New

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Weight Watchers Experience. Join for Free*. Purchase required. www​ .weightwatchers​.com. *Joining Fee waived until March 14th in participating areas. Purchase of Meetings or Online plan required” (Weight Watchers TV Spot 2014). As a dietitian points out, bread is still bread with the same ingredients despite Oprah’s declaration of love for it. For most people “the type of bread they’re eating is a highly processed, refined bread, like eating a bowl of jellybeans. And it doesn’t keep you satisfied, like protein and fiber. It’s not like if Oprah eats it something changes bread” (Fallon 2018). Similarly, Dr. William Davis said the commercial is “dangerous” and “misleading” and that, When someone says, “I eat bread! I eat bread every day and this is part of a successful weight-loss program,” it only works if you exert monumental willpower. What she’s proposing, in effect, is to ingest an appetite stimulant and then fight it with willpower. (Fallon 2018)

It’s worth considering the ramifications of both bread commercials in regard to the physically and emotionally addictive qualities of the product. The extreme passion expressed in both commercials can resemble the powerful drive food addicts feel to eat their addictive substances, one of which is almost always bread (Food Addiction Institute 2022). The passion from the woman in the Nature’s Pride commercial along with the song expressing deep love for the product directly targets the enthusiasm and drive food addicts have for eating addictive substances. Similarly, Oprah’s passion is equally as compelling to those addicted to food. Though she is promoting a diet program designed to help people lose weight, as Dr. Davis points out, the program will not work for those physically addicted to food. Quite the opposite. Those addicted to food will see Oprah’s declaration about loving bread and losing 26 pounds as permission from one of America’s most trusted media icons to continue eating bread since, after all, Oprah has proclaimed it a “diet” food. This is evidenced by a note from the president and CEO of the American Bakers Association, saying that Oprah’s promotion of bread is “a nice boost psychologically” due to Oprah’s “stature” (Fallon 2018). In other words, someone with great influence over America’s preferences proclaimed bread to be a diet food, the result of which is to increase food addiction denial for those addicted to food, while the commercials for this program promote food addiction behaviors which include using food to seek emotional change and portrayals of deep emotional attachment to the food (Danowski 2019, 11) without noting the consequences of doing so resulting in “Happy Eating” representations.

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“FIGHTING AN APPETITE STIMULANT WITH WILLPOWER” It’s worth noting that every food addict’s dream is to be able to eat what they want and still lose weight (Danowski and Lazaro 2000). This dream grows out of food addiction denial. Both bread commercials target this dream while also offering permission to be “so in love” with bread that they “eat it every day” and still lose weight. A diet program that will promise those in it that they can eat bread every day and still lose weight can be very attractive to not only normal eaters but to those addicted to food. This is apparent from the fact that Weight Watchers saw a 35 percent increase in new members after Oprah tweeted the commercial (Fallon 2018), thus showing the great appeal of eating whatever people want and losing weight, too. Though there is great appeal for this concept, it is rooted firmly in denial of the very nature of food addiction. For those food addicted, fighting physical cravings with willpower is no longer possible. The cravings are much more powerful than the food addict’s resolve not to eat addictive substances due to the chemical changes experienced in their brains (Food Addiction Institute 2022). The result of these “Happy Eating” portrayals is the making of promises that food addicts can never keep—to lose weight and/or eat only one or two slices of bread at a time. Additionally, diet programs increase revenue through repeated customers, 97 percent of those who lose weight regain it within three years (Orbach 2023). “Weight Watchers is not so much in the weight-loss business. It is in the money-churning business,” only benefitting “if you become a partner for life. Their profits soar with our failures. Surely if their products worked really well, to a degree that goes anywhere close to addressing the scale of the problem, they’d become redundant. Fat chance” (Orbach 2023). The company’s recent acquisition of a telehealth company, Sequence, now gives the organization the ability to prescribe appetite suppressants for weight loss that only work while you are taking the drug and fail to address underlying psychological and physiological issues (Orbach 2023). Though the company experienced an initial surge in stock prices after the announcement, a major shareholder sold over 14 million shares in the company, causing stock prices to decrease drastically. For her part, Winfrey sold the majority of her stocks in the company years before, has maintained a slimmer body size, and recently posted on Instagram about a New Year’s Day 10-mile hike she and best friend Gayle King took. In the post, she included a photo of her and King taking a break to eat part of the “gorgeous loaf” of bread she brought on the hike, even going so far as to reiterate her love for bread in the video (Marks 2023). In addition to the commercials discussed in this chapter, there are many ultra-processed food companies which have used the love theme in their

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advertisements and/or slogans throughout the years. Following is a partial list of some: • “I’m lovin’ it.” McDonald’s • “We’re all family here.” Olive Garden Restaurants • “Love that chicken.” Popeyes • “Love the mix.” Häagen-Dazs • “I’m cuckoo for Cocoa Puffs.” Cocoa Puffs cereal • “All you need is love and delicious cake.” Tranvanstore Cake Delivery • “Mikey likes it!” Life cereal • “Nothin’ says lovin’ like something from the oven!” Pillsbury • “Good hot Quaker Oats for breakfast—because you love them so much.” Quaker Oats • “Everybody loves ice cream.” National Ice Cream Cone Day • “Post Premium Bran Flakes—another way to show you care.” Post Bran Flakes • “How long does it take to say I love you?” Kraft Deluxe Mac & Cheese • “America loves burgers.” Burger King • “Must be love at first bite.” Magnum Ice Cream • “Love to spoon over you.” Pillsbury Bundt Cake Mix • “The love child of protein & chocolate.” Krave Energy Snack Bar • “You’ll love what they don’t taste like.” Figurines Diet Bars • “Love at first bite.” Fritos • “The dogs kids love to bite.” Armour Hot Dogs • “Food kids love & parents trust.” Lunchables • “They’ll all fall for Love Hearts.” Swizzels • “Fill it with love.” Hershey’s Kisses Though it is not possible to create a list of every ultra-processed food advertisement that has used the love theme to sell products, it is evident from the material presented in this chapter how often and powerful use of the love theme can be for both normal eaters and those addicted to food. In the next chapter, the theme of friendship will be examined as it relates to use in ultraprocessed food advertisements.

Chapter 10

Chew and Make Friends

Though the theme of friendship has been consistently included in many of the advertisements discussed in this book, beginning with the Häagen-Dazs “Everyday Mäde Extraordinary” and the Kellogg’s Frosted Flakes “Mighty, Mighty Tigers” ads outlined in the Introduction, there are several additional ways this theme is used to promote ultra-processed foods which are worth noting. The first of these is the practice of using an ultra-processed food to make friends. “EAT, LAUGH, AND SHARE” An example of this is seen in a 2023 Hershey’s Chocolate Bar advertisement. The commercial opens with a high school age young man taking a piece of a Hershey’s Chocolate Bar and eating it while standing in front of a mirror. He is practicing sign language, and as he does, he talks out loud to himself saying, “Do you like chocolate bars?” (AD ARCHIVES “Hershey’s” 2023). The next shot is of him standing in front of red lockers in a school hallway using sign language. As he signs, words appear on the screen below him which read, “You chocolate bar?” as the camera cuts to a young girl who is smiling and signs back with the words below her, “I love chocolate,” at which point he hands her a Hershey’s Chocolate Bar and the screen shows an open candy bar with the words, “heartwarming the world” (AD ARCHIVES “Hershey’s” 2023). A similar scenario is shown in a 2022 animated holiday commercial for Campbell’s Soup. The commercial begins with a young girl pulling a snowman on a sled. It is snowing out and upbeat music is playing. The camera cuts to a young boy sitting inside with his foot in a cast elevated on a pillow. He 165

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looks out the window to see the snowman with the girl behind it. He smiles and she motions to him that it’s cold outside. The next shot is of her seated at a table eating chicken noodle soup as her glasses fog up. The camera pulls out to show the boy seated next to her also eating soup and looking surprised by the fog on her glasses which clears as they both laugh. As they are laughing, the words, “Warm up inside and out” appear on the left of the screen before the camera cuts to a red background with white text saying, “Campbell’s M’m! M’m! Good” (Comments On Commercials 2022). The idea of using food products to make friends is also shown in a 2007 Totino’s Pizza Roll commercial, which begins with a young boy taking a box of pizza rolls out of the freezer and heating them in the microwave, at which time a female announcer says, “Kids are hungry after school” as the boy carries a large plate of pizza rolls into a room where six other boys and girls are shown sitting on the floor, laughing and eating pizza rolls (Canipe 2015). The announcer continues, “That’s why I always have Totino’s Pizza Rols” as a shot of pizza pie morphing into pizza rolls is shown, at which point the announcer says, “Big pizza taste in a bight-size roll. Kids can’t resist their delicious pizza flavor” as hands are shown taking all the pizza rolls off the plate until there are none left (Canipe 2015). The next shot is a box of pizza rolls with three slices of pizza pie floating around it as the announcer says, “Totino’s Pizza Rolls, the pizza way to snack” with the words, “The pizza way to snack” above (Canipe 2015). In another commercial for pizza, a 2005 animated advertisement for Pizza Hut opens with a young girl saying, “It’s not always easy to get mom to let friends stay for dinner” as she is standing on a ladder and places a hat on a very tall friend beside her mother, who is placing a stack of plates next to several glasses on the table (It’s so difficult 2021). The girl asks her mother if Julie can stay for pizza, to which her mother replies, “Sure, let me get your coat” as a boy skates by in the background before which the mother removes the coat to reveal two other friends underneath the coat which causes everyone, including the skating boy, to laugh (It’s so difficult 2021). The young girl continues saying, “But when it’s dinner time, Mom doesn’t stop the fun. She calls Pizza Hut” before a close-up of a pizza is shown and then a delivery driver who talks about Pizza Hut’s Five Bucks Deal saying that if customers buy one pizza at regular price, they will get the second, third, and fourth for $5 each, which will make them “a hero for next to zero” (It’s so difficult 2021). The camera then returns to the girl with her mother and two more friends, at which point she asks if they can stay for dinner, too, before she encourages viewers to call Pizza Hut to “eat, laugh, and share” as the camera cuts to a shot of the girl, her mother, and her friends seated at a table with a box of pizza in front of them (It’s so difficult 2021).

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In each of these commercials, an ultra-processed food is used to make or keep friends. In the case of the Hershey’s and Campbell’s Soup commercials, great effort has gone into making or maintaining the friendships, those of which involve learning sign language and making and dragging an extremely large snowman to a friend’s house. In each scenario the efforts are rewarded with food. Even though “heartwarming” portrayals are included in both commercials, the idea of using an unhealthy food to express friendship is a “Happy Eating” portrayal as well as a means of perpetuating food addiction denial. Food addicts who, by the very nature of their disease, are highly averse to sharing their addictive foods with anyone, oftentimes stealing, hoarding, or hiding food (Food Addiction Institute 2022), may convince themselves of the need to buy these foods without ever intending to share them. The portrayals in these commercials, all of which include happy people relating to each other and in the two pizza commercials groups of friends, serve as a reminder to food addicts about what they can never have if they remain active in their disease. The addictive ingredients in the products advertised as well as the food addiction portrayals in all of the ads which involve seeking emotional change (feeling liked by friends) and deep emotional attachment to food are all food addiction behaviors in ultra-processed food commercials (Danowski 2019, 11).

“A TASTE OF WELCOME” A 2020 RITZ Cracker commercial uses a similar idea of sharing food with friends. The commercial begins with a shot of the Ritz logo and then three different crackers as an announcer says, “Scoot over. Squeeze in.” as the camera shows a shot of two young boys hugging and a song titled “Make Room” is played in the background (Ritz Crackers TV Spot 2022). The announcer continues, “Pull up a chair” as a girl is shown putting her lunch tray between two boys in a school lunchroom, after which she smiles at them as the announcer says, “Because life’s just better when you believe there’s always room for one more” as various images, including one animated one, are shown of friends (Ritz Crackers TV Spot 2022). The final two shots are of first a cracker with a bite being taken out of it and then of the RITZ logo with the words, “A taste of welcome” as the announcer says the same words (Ritz Crackers TV Spot 2022). Some ultra-processed food manufacturers include celebrities in their friendship-themed commercials. An example of this is a 2022 commercial for Fritos with country music star Thomas Rhett. In the commercial, he and a friend are shown in various scenes as his friend asks his preference on a

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number of different things. The first of these is shown as they are walking down the snack aisle of a grocery store. The friend asks, “Chips?” to which Rhett replies, “Fritos, man,” after which they are shown sitting in a room when the friend asks, “Back roads or highways?” and Rhett replies, “Back roads” (Convenience Store News 2022). The next question about college or pro ball is asked as they are fishing, to which Rhett chooses college before they are shown walking on a sidewalk eating, where he is asked if he likes mild or spicy food, at which time he selects spicy. Next, they are shown by a car with one of them fixing it where the choice is between action and romantic comedies, to which Rhett chooses the latter. They are next shown sitting by a fire with a girl next to Rhett where the choice is between a camper and a tent. Rhett prefers the tent. Following this, they are shown sitting on the bed of a pickup truck with a dog between them where the choice is between lab and poodle. The camera shows a close-up of the dog, which appears to be neither. Rhett does not answer, and the friend simply says okay. The last scene is of them in front of a shelf full of Fritos, at which point the friend asks which flavor he prefers. Rhett tells him it’s a “tough one” as they both begin to take as many bags in their arms as they can before the camera cuts to a shot of three bags of different flavors of Fritos with the logo and the words, “Down for everything” (Convenience Store News 2022). It’s worth noting that this is the first commercial launched by Fritos in twenty years. The “Down for Everything” theme is designed to “paint a picture of connection to the things that matter most: family, friends and community” (Convenience Store News 2022). The practice of using famous friends to promote ultra-processed food is not a new one as evidenced by a 1992 commercial for Lay’s Potato Chips which featured sports stars Larry Bird and Kareem Abdul-Jabbar. The commercial opens with an announcer saying, “Kareem Abdul-Jabbar made a little bet with his good friend Larry Bird” as the two are shown sitting next to each other, with Abdul-Jabbar telling Bird that he bets he can’t eat only one of the Lay’s Potato Chips out of the bag he is holding (MJ23 His Airness Forever 2021). Bird confirms this as the announcer says, “Kareem failed to mention that these were new Lay’s Potato Chips, crunchier Lays’ Potato Chips with more potato taste” as the two agree on the bet and Bird eats one then reaches for another as the announcer says, “So, they’re more irresistible than ever,” at which point Abdul-Jabbar reminds him of the bet to only eat one (MJ23 His Airness Forever 2021). The next shot is of the two playing basketball and then walking out, with Bird eating potato chips, saying, “I can’t believe you did this to me” as Abdul-Jabbar tells him, “It’s you, man, it’s you” as the camera pulls away to reveal that Bird is bald and the announcer says new Lay’s Potato Chips “now more than ever are too good to eat just one” (MJ23 His Airness Forever 2021).

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Both commercials include images of using ultra-processed food as a means of keeping friends or deepening friendships. While the practice of “buying” friends through the use of food is upsetting even for normal eaters, it is even more so for food addicts. One of the major characteristics of addiction of any kind is loneliness and social isolation. A 2014 study of 228 individuals, 118 of whom were drug abusers while the remaining were not, concluded that loneliness is “a high-risk factor [that]may cause initiation of drug abuse and its maintenance” and suggesting that consideration be given to “this critical variable in prevention and treatment of addiction” (Hosseinbor, et al. 2014). Translating these findings to pertain to food addiction is not difficult considering the emotional and behavioral similarities of all addictions. The addition of highly enticing ultra-processed food commercials promising friendship by eating and sharing these items creates an even bigger draw for food addicts. While it’s human nature to seek connections with others, those addicted to food suffering from low self-esteem and shame oftentimes feel desperate to connect with others yet too demoralized by addictive behaviors to do so making the lure of promised friendship through sharing food especially attractive (Hosseinbor, et  al. 2014). The portrayals of seeking emotional change through food and deep emotional attachments shown in the commercials indicate food addiction behaviors in ultra-processed food advertisements (Danowski 2019, 11), while the lack of consequences and fun shown result in “Happy Eating” scenarios. “SHARE A COKE WITH FRIENDS” Perhaps one of the most well-known friendship-themed marketing campaign is the “Share a Coke” promotion, which first launched in Australia in 2011 as a way to “re-engage customers in stores and online,” resulting in a 7 percent increase in consumption from young people in that country as well as a spread to 80 other countries, including the United States, where one million personalized cans with the 250 most popular teen and millennial first names were put on cans (Esterl 2014). As noted at the company’s Australian website, “The purpose of the campaign was to create a more personal relationship with consumers and inspire shared moments of happiness.” As part of the campaign, more generalized “share cans” were created as well, which included labels with titles (mother, father, teacher, etc.) rather than personalized names, among them a recent batch honoring first responders in 2020 with labels for “An Educator,” “A Doctor,” “A Caregiver” to recognize those who served others during the COVID pandemic. A 2018 ad for the “Share a Coke” campaign featured many people of different races and ethnicities in various situations, including a soccer

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game, a barbecue, and on a rainy day sharing the product with friends while a song about sharing joins the scenes together with a message of “sharing is always better when you share a Coke with each other” (CocaCola TV Spot 2018). Similarly, a 2018 digital ad for the campaign showed a large image of two hands from two different people one on each side each reaching for a Coke with the label saying designed for “Michael” underneath on the bottom third of the page. On a red background with white letters are the words, “Share a Coke for the best summer yet” (SASSO 2023). It’s worth noting that for those addicted to food, summer can be an especially difficult time as many suffer from obesity which results in feelings of fear about wearing shorts, bathing suits, and other summer attire causing them to isolate even more (Leith 2023). A campaign promising “the best summer yet” by sharing an ultra-processed food beverage can be very attractive. Additionally, consider that a consumer’s “emotional response to an ad has far greater influence on the consumer’s intent to buy a product than the ad’s content does” (USC Dornsife 2023). Loneliness and friendships are included in a list of six “most recurring themes for sentimental ads,” the others of which are pride, love, unique achievement, man’s empathy, and memories (USC Dornsife 2023). The inclusion of both loneliness and friendships is important as it relates to the promotion of ultra-processed foods which are addictive as a means of selling food but also a way to promise improved friendships, while the portrayals in the ads showing actors seeking emotional change (to feel liked) and deep emotional attachment to the product indicate food addiction behaviors in these advertisements (Danowski 2019, 11).

“YOU GOT CHOCOLATE IN MY PEANUT BUTTER” Another historically successful advertising campaign that includes the friendship theme in a unique way is the “You Got Chocolate in My Peanut Butter” promotion for Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups. Each of the advertisements in this campaign involved two people, one of whom carried a chocolate bar and the other a jar of peanut butter, colliding and mixing the two, which ultimately resulted in happiness, love, and, for some, friendship. For example, an advertisement from the 1980s featured two young boys playing a video game in which one controlled the peanut butter and the other controlled the chocolate icons. They almost collide but in the first attempt miss each other, at which point one of the boys says, “Faster! Get out of the way!” as the two collide and one boy yells at the other, “Your peanut butter hit my chocolate,” as the

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other yells back, “Your chocolate hit my peanut butter” (FM1156 2019). As the two stare at each other, the camera cuts to a shot of a package of Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups as a male announcer says, “Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups. Real milk chocolate, delicious peanut butter. Two great tastes that taste great together,” at which point the camera returns to the two boys who reached a truce and are happily eating peanut butter cups together (FM1156 2019). In another 1980s-era commercial, opera singers are shown during a performance colliding with peanut butter and chocolate which results in the two singing about how delicious the two tastes are together and at the end of the commercial, the entire cast eating and singing about Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups. The campaign made “Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups the top-selling candy in the U.S., and the brand synonymous with the peanut butter-chocolate combination” (Imagine Communications 2023). As one marketing company notes, “Other candy companies make similar confections, but can you name any?” (Imagine Communications 2023). Though the company would move on to another successful campaign in the late 1980s focusing on the question, “How do you eat a Reese’s?” in 2006, the company would revisit the “Collision” Campaign to promote a caramel-flavored peanut butter cup in a commercial featuring NASCAR Reese’s driver Kevin Harvick and Brazilian IndyCar driver Tony Kanaan. The commercial opens with Harvick walking down the street listening to music with ear buds while eating a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup, saying, “Mmm Reese’s” while Kanaan is shown walking down the street with a jar of caramel while talking on a cellphone, saying, “Mmm caramel” (Tudor-Pitko 2018). The two collide as they in front of a coffee shop at which point Harvick’s peanut butter cup goes into Kanaan’s caramel jar with Harvick saying, “You got your caramel in my Reese’s” before the camera cuts to a shot of a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup with a female singing, “Three great tastes that taste great together” before a shot of Harvick smiling as he eats the caramel combination (Tudor-Pitko 2018). Using the idea of ultra-processed foods to make friends is also shown in a 2016 commercial for Payday candy bars. The commercial opens with two men both trying to park in the same parking spot in a busy area just before a female announcer says, “Payday presents salty covered sweetness” (Payday TV Spot 2016). Both men get out of the car yelling at each other, with one telling the other he was there first and the other saying they are going to have a budding friendship, to which the first one yells that they can both go become best friends “forever and always” as one takes a bite out of the other’s candy bar (Payday TV Spot 2016). Both candy commercials include portrayals of using food to seek emotional change (feel liked) and include representations of deep emotional attachments to ultra-processed foods, the result of which are food addiction behavior scenarios (Danowski 2019, 11).

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“M&M’S MAKE FRIENDS” One of the most well-known friendship-themed advertising campaigns involves the M&M’s character mascots who have regularly shown their camaraderie since their debut in a 1954 commercial which began with a shot of a man’s closed hands as he asks, “Which hand has the M&M Candies?” after which he opens one hand to reveal melted chocolate to which he says, “Not this hand. That’s ordinary chocolate candy. It’s melted,” before he opens his other hand and says, “But this one. There’s no chocolate mess because M&M’s Milk Chocolate melts in your mouth, not in your hands” as he eats the candy and shows his clean hand to the camera (Toole Man 2011). He then goes on to talk about how there are two flavors of the candy—plain chocolate and peanut chocolate candies—before the camera cut to a cartoon circle-shaped candy sitting in a lifeguard chair with an umbrella over it who tells her friend that she wants to be an M&M’s plain chocolate candy, during which time she talks about a “solid milk chocolate inside” and a “colorful sugar shell outside” as she peels off a layer to reveal a big M while her friend says, “And I’m a delicious peanut but look what happens to me. First I’m drenched in creamy milk chocolate then covered with a crisp thin sugar shell” as he jumps into a chocolate-filled pool and also peels a layer off to reveal an M (Toole Man 2011). As the two stand next to each other with their arms linked together, they tell viewers to “Look for the M on each piece” before the camera returns to the man who encourages consumers to try both types of M&M’s and repeats the slogan about the candy not melting in your hands (Toole Man 2011). The first two M&M characters were Red and Yellow, who would eventually be joined by Blue, Green, Orange, and Brown by 2012. In 2022, Purple joined what the candy company refers to as “The Crew” introduced in a YouTube advertisement singing, “I’m Just Gonna Be Me” and joined by the other M&M characters to support her. In a 2023 Super Bowl advertising stunt, the “death” of the characters was announced. They were “resurrected” shortly after amid outrage from fans. Not all the company’s friendship-themed commercials feature the M&M characters. A 1982 commercial begins with a vintage truck driving onto a farm as chickens run off the road. A young boy steps out of the truck as the woman in the driver’s seat tells a boy and a girl that this is their cousin who will spend the summer with them. The two children are clearly upset and ask, “The whole summer?” before a song with the lyrics, “M&M’s make friends. Friends who share with one another” as images of the boy sharing the candy with the other two children are shown before a male announcer reminds viewers that M&M’s “melt in your mouth, not in your hand” (Noonan 2013). A few additional images of the boy opening his hands to show the candies haven’t melted and the other children appearing to guess which hand the

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candies are in even though they are in both appear before a final image of the entire family sitting on hay bales eating M&M’s with the cousin is shown. In all these advertisements signs of using food to seek emotional change (feeling liked) and representations of deep emotional attachment to the foods shown are present and indicate food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11). “FRIENDS” AND “A COFFEE SHOP VIBE” In a solidification of the importance of the friendship theme in the company’s advertising efforts, in 2004, Red and Yellow were used to introduce the show “Friends” on NBC appearing alongside an animated peacock. Similarly, in 2023, Green, Brown, and Purple were used to introduce Caramel Cold Brew M&M’s. The commercial opens with Green and Brown sitting on a sofa with Green, saying, “These new Caramel Cold Brew M&M's are like M&M’s with a coffee shop vibe,” to which Brown replies, “Maybe too much of a coffee shop vibe,” after which the camera cuts to Purple who is getting ready to play her guitar as she says, “This next one is about the importance of friendship so I’m going to maintain eye contact while I sing it,” after which a shot of the product with a class of iced coffee behind it is shown as Brown says, “Oh boy” (Caramel Cold Brew M&M's TV Spot 2023). “JUST CRACK AN EGG” Another way the friendship theme is used in ultra-processed food advertisements is to create or maintain a relationship with the product itself. An example of this is a 2019 commercial for Ore Ida’s Just Crack an Egg breakfast food. The commercial opens with a woman reaching into a refrigerator, where she looks guiltily at an egg that she initially reaches for but grabs a yogurt instead as a female announcer says, “Your relationship with breakfast is filled with compromises. In fact, your love’s grown cold” as the woman is shown again looking at the egg but reaching instead for a bottle as the camera remains focused on the inside of the fridge with the white egg tilting (Just Crack an Egg TV Spot 2019). Next, the woman once again reaches into the fridge as the announcer says, “But breakfast wants you back” as the woman smiles and reaches for a small container before the announcer continues, “With Just Crack An Egg, you bring the egg and we bring the Ore Ida potatoes, chopped veggies, melted cheese, and hearty meat for a hot scramble ready in less than two minutes” (Just Crack an Egg TV Spot 2019). The camera then focuses first on the woman who is smiling and happy and

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then on the container in a microwave followed by a shot of the woman eating as the announcer says, “Try Just Crack An Egg to get those warm fuzzy feelings again. Take breakfast back. Find it in the egg aisle” as an image of an image of an egg with the words “TAKE BREAKFAST BACK” is cracked to reveal three different flavors of the product is shown (Just Crack an Egg TV Spot 2019). At the manufacturer’s website, visitors are told to “prepare for love at first bite.” The ingredients in the Scramble Kit are cooked pork breakfast sausage crumbles (pork, seasoning [salt, spices, dextrose, sugar, yeast extract, spice extracts], vinegar, water, sodium phosphates); cheddar cheese ([pasteurized milk, cheese culture, salt, enzymes, annatto (color)], modified cornstarch added to prevent caking, natamycin [a natural mold inhibitor]); potatoes, onions, green peppers, red peppers, citric acid. It’s worth noting that the “cooked pork breakfast sausage crumbles” include salt as well as dextrose and sugar, making this ultra-processed food especially addictive to food addicts. As outlined on the Fooducate website, “The calorie count is low— just 70 calories” and 140 calories with an egg which is “a tiny portion” with “the sodium count, 320 mg, quite high, especially for so few calories and “the saturated fat content is high—4.5 grams, or 23% of the daily maximum” (2023). In addition to the sweet and salty taste, the high fat content can also trigger a binge in food addicts. As noted in a 2019 article, Food rich in fat is hyperpalatable and is liable to be consumed in excess amounts. Food addiction as a concept has gained traction in recent years, as some aspects of addiction have been demonstrated for certain varieties of food. Fat addiction can be a diagnosable condition, which has similarities with the construct of addictive disorders, and is distinct from eating disorders or normal eating behaviors. Psychological vulnerabilities like attentional biases have been identified in individuals described to be having such addiction. (Sarkar, Kochhar, and Khan 2019)

Similarly, certain psychological characteristics are also present in fat addition, which include visual cues, cravings and liking of foods with fats in them, thus making it even clearer why food manufacturers use images with the sizzling and/or dripping of fat-filled products such as meats and cheeses (Sarkar, Kochhar, and Khan 2019). Now, consider Michael Moss’s experience of attending the Advertising Research Foundation conference where advertisers meet to understand how to maximize their advertising budgets. In his book Hooked, he writes about a particular session outlining a way researchers found to evoke emotional responses from consumers in advertising using such tools as electroencephalogram (EEG) to analyze brain patterns to “pinpoint the moment when our

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emotions make us vulnerable to persuasion and branding” as well as an fMRI brain scanner to understand food cravings and compulsion “for the advantage of advertisers, not addiction research” (Moss 2021, 72). He further points out that the most effective advertisements are timed to target “the precise moment when our emotions are running high” (Moss 2021, 72). While attending the conference, Moss heard an expert speak about a Super Bowl ad for Budweiser in which a puppy is rescued by the company’s horses. Though the commercial was loved by viewers, it did not result in increased sales and social media posts highlighted the dog, not the product. After using a brain-monitoring device on people involved in a focus group, it was shown that the emotion of the commercial, “which would have helped encode Budweiser in the viewers’ brains, was wasted because the branding for Budweiser came later in the commercial, when their emotions had already flattened out” (Moss 2021, 73). Moss also notes that other addictive substances including drugs and tobacco take time to enter the bloodstream but processed foods work much faster. He notes that after a lick of ice cream “taste buds have a mechanism that detects the sugar . . . and this sensing . . . gets converted into an electrical signal that races to the brain with the full force of the actual sugar, but much faster,” further noting that it works with the same rapidity for fat causing an excitement in the brain “six hundred milliseconds from the first lick,” resulting in a “strong impulse to lick more” (Moss 2021, 49–50). Combine Moss’s information with the emotions shown in the ads described in this chapter and it’s easy to see how powerful advertisements about friendship and belonging can be to a food addict who feels isolated. In addition to being driven to purchase the food due to perfectly placed emotional cues within the commercial, once the food is eaten, the powerful electrical signals sent to the brain cause immediate cravings for more of the food, resulting in a binge which, in turn, will pave the way for more of the same. Of course, none of these consequences are portrayed in any of these commercials, thus making all of them true “Happy Eating” portrayals. The practice of using positive environmental change in ultra-processed foods will be examined in the next chapter.

Chapter 11

Chew and Change the World

It began with his great-grandfather, and then his father, who founded the Ed. Haas Company in 1894, which allowed him to pursue one of his passionate interests—helping people to stop smoking and overeating while at the same time freshening their breath. Austrian confectioner Eduard Hass III and his chemists created tablets designed to do just this “by compressing confectionary sugar and flavoring with  thousands of pounds of force until each brick holds together,” which resulted in PEZ Candies (Machemer 2020) and thus some of the first environmental change–themed advertisements for an ultraprocessed food. Though metal tins or foil wrapping were used for the first candies, dispensers would be created in the 1940s, eventually resulting in some of the most collectible items. Early advertisements promoted the antismoking and thus cleaner air benefits of the products. For example, a 1950sera ad, which marks the beginning of U.S. operations of the product, featured a man offering what appears to be a lighter to a lady but is actually a PEZ dispenser with a candy coming out of it. On both sides of the image are PEZ candies in various flavors, including peppermint, lemon, grape, orange, and wild cherry. At the bottom of the image are the words, “brand new sweet, fun to offer-fun to eat,” above five images of the logo with each flavor (Lewis 2015). Before this advertisement, a 1948 German ad had firmly established the company’s branding as an anti-smoking device with the words, “Rauchen Verboten, PEZ-en Erlaubt”—“No Smoking, PEZing Allowed” (Lewis 2015). “WORLD’S FAMOUS CANDY” Several years later, the company would hire young women who were known as “PEZ Girls” to drive around in PEZ trucks with PEZ uniforms promoting 177

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the product worldwide as a means to stop smoking (Lewis 2015). The first PEZ dispenser patented in the United States in 1952, resembled a lighter, while in 1955, robot- and Santa Claus–shaped dispensers would be the first character-shaped creations released by the company, ultimately resulting in over 1,400 various character dispensers some of which have sold for thousands of dollars as collectible items (Lewis 2015). One of the rarest PEZ dispenser designs, a political donkey dispenser from 1961, sold for $12,500 in 2013 . . . a pair of political donkey and elephant dispensers sold together for $20,000 . . . from the 1970s . . . pears have gone for $500 to $1,000 and pineapples for $3,000. (Lewis 2015)

Though originally designed to help people to stop smoking, the company continues to include environmental themes in some of its advertisements, including one from 2012 which begins with a stop-motion image of Saturn and the Earth from space and lyrics of a song, “Red, orange, blue, and yellow, all the colors of the rainbow,” as a rainbow made from PEZ candies is created then after that the song continues at which point, bluish green candies are formed into a wave and then a rocket, fireworks, and buildings before the camera shows a shot of various PEZ dispensers, which include Elvis, Batman, Sponge Bob, Mickey Mouse, Bart Simpson, Yoda, and Hello Kitty (PEZofficial 2012). As the PEZ candies move about the screen to form a giant ball beneath the dispensers, the song continues with the lyrics, “World’s famous candy makes you smile,” which is repeated several times as the candies are shown moving into a PEZ package before the final words of the song, “World’s famous candy makes you feel all right” (PEZofficial 2012). The images of space, the rainbow, and the sky create a strong tie between the product and nature, which, in turn, may lead some to mistakenly believe that the candies are “natural” and/or good for the environment. Along with this belief, the ingredients in the candies, mainly sugar, can trigger a binge for those addicted to food (Food Addiction Institute 2022). The ads include images of seeking emotional change (feeling altruistic) and a deep emotional attachment to both the candies and the dispensers, which are designed to evoke strong feelings of loyalty through their association with popular pop culture icons, result in food addiction behavior portrayals (Danowski 2019, 11). “NATURE AT ITS MOST DELICIOUS” The concept of using love of the environment as a way to associate themselves with nature and encourage consumption of their products is also seen in a 2013 Nature Valley commercial. The commercial opens with an

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overhead shot of a lake surrounded by trees and mountains as a female announcer says, “It balances you,” before the camera moves around the area to land on a waterfall, at which point she says, “It fills you with energy and it gives you what you’re looking for,” as the camera zooms to a man and woman son a rock in front of water (Nature Valley TV Spot 2013). As the camera focuses on a Nature Valley Granola Bar which the woman is holding, the female announcer says, “. . . to live a more natural life in a convenient two-bar pack” as the woman hands one of the bars to the man who gazes lovingly at her (Nature Valley TV Spot 2013). The female announcer continues as nuts and oats fall on screen, “This is Nature Valley delicious Granola Bars made with the best ingredients in nature,” as a shot of the oats and nuts with honey being poured into them is shown before she says, “Nature Valley. Nature at its most delicious,” as the camera cuts to a shot of three different flavors of granola bars each with an ingredient in front of it—the apple crisp flavor has slices of apples in front of it, the oats and honey flavor has oats in front of it, and the trail mix has red berries in front of it—with a jar of honey behind them and mountains in the far background and the words, “Nature at its most delicious” at the top of the screen (Nature Valley TV Spot 2013). The portrayal of using the granola bar to seek emotional change (serenity) and the deep emotional attachment to the product both result in food addiction behavior portrayals (Danowski 2019, 11).

“LIFE HAPPENS OUT THERE” Several years later, the company focused on creating advertisements with a more proactive approach. A 2021 commercial opens with various shots of a family of four, which includes a mother, father, son, and daughter, walking over a beautiful bridge above a water body and then through the woods as a female announcer says, “Nature. It energizes us. That’s why Nature Valley restored access to 10,000 miles of trails for everyone to enjoy so experience the power of nature and take in the outdoors with Nature Valley,” during which time shots of the mother eating a granola bar are shown until the camera cuts to a shot of the four sitting by a waterfall with the words, “Take in the outdoors” underneath the Nature Valley logo (Nature Valley TV Spot 2021). A similar commercial from 2023 includes the same preservation of the environment theme. The commercial opens with a close-up shot of a Nature Valley Oats ’N Honey Granola Bar before the wrapper crinkles open in the center to reveal a shot of two women and two children, one boy and one girl, walking in an old-growth forest as a female announcer says, “Nature Valley is committed to protecting our national parks,” as a close-up of someone opening a granola bar is shown before the announcer continues, “Because

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nothing compares to experiencing out there through their eyes,” at which point a close-up is shown of the young girl as she looks up when the camera shows the tops of the very tall trees (Nature Valley TV Spot 2023). The announcer says, “Life happens out there,” as the group is shown walking by water before the wrapper restores itself to reveal the granola bar, under which are the words “Proud partner of the National Park Foundation” (Nature Valley TV Spot 2023). The purpose of all three of these commercials is clearly to not only reinforce the “natural” aspects of the granola bar ingredients but to create a connection with preserving the environment in the hopes that consumers will feel good about supporting a company committed to saving Earth’s natural resources and helping to make them available for everyone to enjoy. It’s worth noting that in each of these commercials, the actors are shown eating and carrying the granola bars in backpacks in beautiful locations thus firming up the “naturalness” of the product and its connection to “saving” the environment. The ingredients in the granola bar is whole grain oats, sugar, canola, and/or sunflower oil, rice flour, honey, salt, brown sugar syrup, baking soda, soy lecithin, and natural flavor. With sugar, salt, and brown sugar syrup included in the ingredients list, this product can trigger a binge for those addicted to food (Food Addiction Institute 2022), while, for normal eaters, it will provide a sweet, salty, and crunchy taste that encourages overconsumption. In addition to this, those who are addicted to food and find it difficult to move around may be drawn to the images of family activities in beautiful settings and consider this to be a “substitute” for exercise. The underlying message of these ads is that if consumers eat this product, they will have fun with loved ones in beautiful settings and be fit enough to move easily around these areas. For all types of eaters, the idea that they can help to “save the environment” by eating an addictive, ultra-processed food is an attractive premise as well as a “Happy Eating” portrayal, while the images of seeking emotional change (peacefulness) and representations of deep emotional attachment to the food in the advertisements indicate food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11). The reality of the situation, however, is quite different from that portrayed in the commercials. This product is highly processed and includes “new words to add to your vocabulary,” some of which are designed “to increase the shelf life of the product and improve the flavor that disappears when food is not fresh” (Fooducate 2023). In addition to this, there are “multiple sugar ingredients listed,” with the reason being that “manufacturers add several different types of sugar in order to make the sugar appear lower in the ingredient list” (Fooducate 2023). As previously mentioned, these various types of sugars trigger binges in food addicts and overeating in most others (Food Addiction Institute 2023). Taking this a step further, it’s important to note that the salt, sugar, fat combination of this and many other

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ultra-processed foods allows food manufacturers to keep production costs to a minimum. Sugar is a low-cost sweetener that adds “bulk and texture” to products, while salt is “barely more expensive than water” and “for a little added expense, a variety of fats” can be put into foods “to stimulate overeating and improve mouthfeel” (Moss 2014, xxix). While these ingredients have great power in causing overconsumption, “marketing is a full partner” in the creating dangerous eating habits (Moss 2014, xxvi) by, as Kelso notes, promising solutions to problems through consumption of products (2019, 143).

“FROM SEED TO SLICE” A 2021 commercial for Arnold Bread takes the association of its product to the environment even further by including a song with the lyrics “brighter than the sun” in it (Arnold Bread). The commercial opens with a shot of three loaves of bread, the company’s logo, a sandwich and in the right corner, a shot of a father and son in a wheat field. The camera cuts to a shot of the father and son walking through a wheat field with wind towers in the background as a female singer begins singing, “The day has just begun,” as the father reaches for a wheat blade and removes the seeds from it, putting them into his son’s hand (Arnold Bread 2021). As the boy throws the seeds into the field, the father nods proudly and the song continues, “Shining how we want, brighter than the sun,” as the camera focuses on the wind tower with a few homes behind it and then cuts to a shot of an older woman on her porch who looks up to the sky as she holds a sandwich and then takes a euphoric bite as the song continues, “I swear you hit me like a vision. Who am I to tell where it’s supposed to go,” at which point the camera cuts to various shots of people in outside situations, including children playing at a park and eating sandwiches, a couple on a grass covered roof top garden planting vegetables then eating sandwiches, and, finally, the father and son sitting on a picnic bench in the wheat field eating sandwiches while the song lyrics are repeated (Arnold Bread 2021). The camera stays on the father and son eating their sandwiches, a male announcer says, “Arnold bread. Gathering, baking, and delivering the goodness of nature . . . from one generation to the next and from seed to slice,” at which point the opening shot of the three loaves of bread with the words, “From seed to slice,” underneath the logo where the father and son appeared in the first shot is shown (Arnold Bread 2021). At the Arnold Bread website, visitors are told, We are committed to eliminating artificial preservatives, colors, and flavors from our products and reducing our carbon footprint by baking with renewable

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wind energy—because we believe that better choices lead to a healthy, happy life and a rich, vibrant world.

The ingredients in Arnold 100% Whole Wheat Bread are whole wheat flour, water, bulgur wheat, sugar, vegetable oil (soybean), wheat gluten, honey, yeast, whole wheat, cultured wheat flour, sea salt, soy lecithin, grain vinegar, natural flavors, and citric acid. As noted previously, the procedure of making whole wheat into flour strips it of nutrients, while modern agricultural techniques have turned wheat into a product proven to contribute to serious health concerns, including heart disease, diabetes, high blood pressure, Alzheimer’s, and Parkinson’s (Davis 2011). Additionally, the inclusion of sugar and honey encourage bingeing in those addicted to food, while the nostalgic idea of a farmer passing his knowledge down to his son to create a product that’s “brighter than the sun” illustrates a deep emotional attachment to this product as well as a means of seeking emotional change (pride and love) while ignoring the health consequences resulting in both “Happy Eating” and food addiction behavior portrayals (Danowski 2019, 11). “JOIN THE CLIMATE MOVEMENT!” Ice-cream manufacturers have regularly used the environmental change theme in their advertisements, most especially on or near Earth Day. An example of a 2015 Earth Day ad from ice-cream maker Ben & Jerry’s opens with images of melting ice cream with music in the background as a male announcer begins to speak, “This is what happens when ice cream is just two degrees warmer than it should be,” as the camera continues to focus on melting ice cream which includes chocolate fish floating in it as the announcer continues noting that for the company “it’s a mess. For the planet, it’s a metaphor because a two-degree warming of our planet’s climate would have an equally dramatic though much more significant impact” (Ben & Jerry’s 2015). The camera continues to focus on the melting ice cream, as the announcer encourages viewers to take action to reverse the trend of climate change while the ice cream begins to form into letters and the announcer talks about “innovative solutions that keep our planet and those who live on it thriving because while a two-degree change may not seem like much, the truth is it means the world to us,” at which point the ice cream forms into different colored letters which say, “save our world,” as the announcer encourages people to “Join the climate movement!” (Ben & Jerry’s 2015). The same year in another commercial, the company urged people once again to join in saving the planet by signing a petition. The commercial opened with Chris Miller from the company noting that in the previous year 400,000 people had marched in New York to call on world leaders to take

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action on making climate changes, further pointing out that climate change is already making an impact. Environmental organization Avaaz, which has a goal of 100 percent clean energy by 2050, is highlighted in the commercial as a member of the organization encourages people to sign a petition, after which Jostein Solheim from Ben & Jerry’s says that signing the petition is a beginning and that everyone needs to work together. Throughout the first half of the commercial, there are images of protesting crowds, while the second half features images of solar panels until a final shot of a solar farm with the words, “If it’s melted, it’s ruined” in Ben & Jerry’s font appear above (Ben & Jerry’s 2015). In conjunction with this, the company released a new raspberry, marshmallow, blackberry, and chocolate ice-cream flavor called Save Our Swirled to encourage action on climate change with 100 percent shift to clean energy by 2050. The ingredients in the ice cream are cream, concentrated skim milk, water, liquid sugar, corn syrup, sugar, raspberry puree (3.9%), coconut oil, egg yolk, raspberry juice concentrate, cocoa, egg whites, thickeners (pectin, xanthan gum, guar gum, carrageenan), skim milk, natural flavor and flavorings, vegetable juice concentrate, milk, emulsifier (soybean lecithin), salt, and vanilla extract. It’s worth noting that this ice-cream flavor contains five different types of sweeteners (liquid sugar, corn syrup, sugar, raspberry puree, and raspberry juice concentrate) which could result in a binge for those addicted to food and possibly even for those who are normal eaters. Additionally, the idea of saving the planet by eating ice cream is an attractive idea to many yet does not actually contribute to climate change efforts, while the portrayals of using food to see emotional change (social justice) and deep emotional attachment to a product making it possible are both food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11). Though there were reports from various media outlets that the flavor was discontinued in 2018, it is not listed on the company’s website in the “Flavor Graveyard.” “GLOBAL SHORTAGE OF ICE CREAM” In another ad from an ice-cream company, an empty cup of ice cream with a small wooden spoon is shown in the upper half of the page. The background is shades of yellow becoming darker down the page. Underneath the icecream container in large letters are the words, “We’re Sorry” in white font (Kargin 2020). Underneath that in smaller letters but also in white font are the words, “there will be a global shortage of ice cream due to global warming,” and below is the Wall’s logo and the words, “stop global warming if you love ice cream” (Kargin 2020). Though the striking image of an empty ice-cream cup along with the fear of a shortage is clearly designed to scare ice-cream

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lovers as well as encourage panic buying of the product, for a food addict, food shortages of any kind strike directly to the heart of the worst thing that could ever happen—loss of their addictive substances. Though food hoarding behavior is most often associated with eating disorders, it is also a symptom of hoarding disorder, in which sufferers collect large amounts of certain items, including food, money, paper, animals, or other items. In the case of food hoarding, sufferers purchase “multiples of food items, perhaps due to store sales” and are “emotionally tied to food perhaps based on childhood deprivation due to neglect, poverty, or having lived through a war or economic depression” (Golloub 2023). It’s not difficult to see how an advertisement threatening an ice-cream shortage could trigger both addictive and hoarding behaviors. Additionally, it’s worth noting that the COVID-19 pandemic triggered food hoarding behaviors in those unable to obtain food during international quarantines, some of which continue today. In a 2022 article in The Wall Street Journal, a 41-year-old mother talks about her experience shopping at a wholesale club in Buffalo, New York, noting that she spends 25 percent more on food buying double to stock up and ensure she is never without those food items her family prefers (Bannon). In the article, it is noted that there has been a large increase in wholesale club memberships as well as permanent changes in the way many people think about shopping, resulting in many stocking up to avoid being without products they need (Bannon 2022). The ingredients in Wall’s Soft Scoop Vanilla Ice Cream are reconstituted skimmed milk, glucose syrup, sugar, coconut fat, fructose, concentrated skimmed milk, whey solids (milk), emulsifier (mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids), stabilizers (guar gum, locust bean gum), colors (annatto norbixin, curcumin), and flavorings. Glucose syrup, sugar, and fructose are sweeteners which can cause binges in food addicts and overeating in even those who are normal eaters. The combination of the ice cream’s ingredients along with the portrayals of seeking emotional change (freedom from fear) and the deep emotional attachment to this product indicate food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11), while the lack of consequences from eating this product shown in the advertisement is a “Happy Eating” scenario. “MEASURE YOUR IMPACT” Vegan burger manufacturer Impossible Foods used the size of its New York Times advertisement on Earth Day 2023 to get its point across about the carbon impact of its products. The manufacturer, which makes the Impossible Burger and regularly positions itself as an environmentally friendly company, took out a one inch by one inch advertisement in The New York Times on

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Earth Day, the smallest possible ad, to promote its mini burger while at the same time bring awareness to the impact food choices have on the environment. A spokesperson for the company called the campaign, including the advertisement, “[A] playful and engaging way to bring our brand purpose to the forefront and get people thinking about the impact their food can have on the size of their environmental footprint” (Vegconomist 2023). The ingredients in the Impossible Beef Burger are water, soy protein concentrate, sunflower oil, coconut oil, natural flavors, 2 percent or less of: methylcellulose, cultured dextrose, food starch modified, yeast extract, soy leghemoglobin, salt, mixed tocopherols (antioxidant), l-tryptophan, and soy protein isolate, which according to one dietician are not a true healthy alternative to meat. She notes, The Impossible Burger is a tasty alternative to beef for those who crave the taste of meat, but it is not really an improvement. The Impossible Burger is an ultra-processed food with many added ingredients. Also, the Impossible Burger adds GMO (genetically modified organisms) in the soy and yeast to produce the heme. . . . While an Impossible Burger is a good source of fiber, calcium and potassium, and they have zero cholesterol, they are high in saturated fats and sodium, both of which are linked to serious health issues like obesity, heart disease and high blood pressure. (Vegconomist 2023)

Additionally, the inclusion of cultured dextrose, food starch modified, yeast extract, and salt can trigger a binge in those addicted to food. Similarly, the idea that eating a meat substitute is an “environmentally friendly” alternative to meat can also result in the mistaken belief by both food addicts and normal eaters that overeating these will not cause physical health consequences while helping the environment, making this the ultimate “Happy Eating” portrayal. “WE CAN’T JUST TAKE FROM NATURE” In a similar manner, a 2020 commercial for Ocean Spray products opens with shot of cranberries and a pair of hands scooping up a handful with the words, “Ocean Spray X Nature” across the image as a male announcer says, “We can’t just take from nature so we collaborate,” at which point an image of water is shown with the words, “Recycling water” over them, which is followed by a drop of water changing into a garden of bright yellow flowers, then to an image of a bee keeper with the words, “Working with bees,” then to an image of a child in a field using a hoe with the words “Nurturing the soil” over it (Ocean Spray 2020). This is followed by an image of several people’s hands who are tending to the soil before the camera cuts to a split screen of a bottle of Ocean Spray Cranberry Juice on one side and a glass of the product

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on the other as the announcer says, “Ocean Spray works with nature every day to farm in a sustainable way” as the camera cuts to a shot of a group of farmers with the words, “Ocean Spray X Water,” which then changes to “Ocean Spray X Bees,” then to “Ocean Spray X Soil” (Ocean Spray 2020). The final shot is of the company’s logo with the words, “Farmer Owned since 1930” around it (Ocean Spray 2020). As noted previously, Ocean Spray Cranberry Juice contains sugar as the third ingredient behind filtered water and cranberry juice (water and cranberry juice concentrate) and followed by ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and vegetable concentrate (for color). As noted at the Environmental Working Group website, the added sugar in Ocean Spray Cranberry Juice is “more concerning than natural sugars like raisins because they [added sugars] can lead to obesity by adding calories without being accompanied by important nutrients like potassium, vitamin C or fiber.” The portrayals of using food to seek emotional change (environmental pride) and the deep emotional attachment to a product and company that is “Farmer Owned since 1930” indicate food addiction behaviors (Danowski 2019, 11).

THE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT OF ADVERTISING Each of the ads mentioned in this chapter promotes an ultra-processed food while simultaneously proclaiming stewardship for the environment. However, it’s worth considering the impact the advertising industry itself has on the Earth. As a $600 billion industry that results in large companies spending billions of dollars each year on advertising, the carbon footprint from this industry is rapidly increasing (Walker 2023). Much of this carbon footprint comes from the production of the ads themselves, including electronic signage, travel to production locations, an increase in online ads resulting in larger energy consumption, and a greater number of carbon-emitting emails (Walker 2023). The electric ads in Times Square in New York use an estimated 161 megawatts a day, which could be used to provide power for approximately 160,000 homes and that each marketing email uses “4g of CO2-equivalent gases,” and even though the number may seem very insignificant, it’s important to take into consideration the ever-growing number of emails sent by companies advertising their products (Walker 2023). The number of emails sent each day is expected to increase to over 376 billion a day by 2025 (Walker 2023). A recent study concluded that over 40 percent of the advertisements are ignored on digital screens and that removing them from websites not receiving much attention resulted in more than 63 percent fewer carbon emissions (Walker 2023).

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Netflix’s share of the total downstream traffic in America is 37.05%. Let’s assume this is their global share. If Netflix changed its business model to that of Spotify, which is free to use if the user accepts advertisements, the effect on the Internet energy consumption would be substantial. If an additional 10% is assumed as the advertising video traffic, based on our framework, on a global level [an] additional 42.02 TWh of energy would be consumed, and 23.76 million tons of CO2e emitted. (Walker 2023)

Taking this into consideration as well as the addictive behaviors portrayed in these and other, ultra-processed food advertisements, the amount of damage both to consumers’ health and the environment is substantial, a problem which cannot be corrected by an increase in advertising. In the next chapter, several initiatives currently underway to help improve food production will be highlighted as will those designed to bring awareness to food addiction, health issues surrounding ultra-processed foods, and obesity in general.

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More than one in three adults and one in five children struggle with obesity, making them much more likely to suffer from heart disease, type 2 diabetes, and several types of cancer, resulting in U.S. healthcare costs of $173 billion a year (Centers For Disease Control And Prevention 2022), which are expected to rise worldwide to over $4 trillion by 2035, with over half of the world’s population living with obesity and overweight within twelve years if changes aren’t made (World Obesity Federation 2022). Add to this that even though revisions in the nutritional content of advertisements shown to children were made by the Children’s Food and Beverage Advertising Initiative (CFBAI), the food industry’s self-regulatory program made up of nineteen food and beverage companies who voluntarily agree to participate, this initiative failed to make advancements in protecting children from ultra-processed food advertisements (University of Connecticut 2022). In a report, Rudd Center researchers noted that CFBAI members still advertise products to children under twelve years old, “via packaging, websites, in-store displays, and sponsorships,” and are not offered protection from these marketing efforts under the organization’s current guidelines, further noting that member companies are able to advertise brands directly to children, “even when the majority of products offered by those brands do not meet CFBAI nutrition criteria” (University of Connecticut 2022). They found that: More than one-third of food products that companies indicate may be advertised to kids do not qualify as healthy, including sugary cereals, sweet snacks, and crackers. In addition, companies can advertise directly to children low-calorie drinks sweetened with sugar and/or non-nutritive sweeteners, even though child health experts recommend they should not be served to children. (University of Connecticut 2022) 189

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Now, consider how the advertising techniques discussed in this book affect those addicted to food, the vast majority of whom are adults, then take this a step further to understand the fact that advertisements for ultra-processed foods encourage addictive eating almost from the time a child is born. The mental and physical health effects of decades of this influence cannot, and should not, be underestimated. “COMMERCIAL DETERMENTS OF HEALTH” In line with this, a recent study found that large companies have the ability to negatively affect public health through influencing the choices they make, including those about which foods to eat by manipulating regulations and political systems (Erzse 2023). These “commercial determents of health” used by companies to maximize profits and shape food choices promote unhealthy eating behaviors. The three ways they do this are: 1. Through socialization “that . . . food choices are a direct result of free will and of freedom of choice. Yet for people with a limited amount of money, that ‘freedom’ is exercised in a context largely shaped—and limited—by what food and drink manufacturers and retailers choose to produce, market, and sell” (Erzse 2023). 2. The creation of demand. “Supermarkets are filled with ultra-processed foods with lots of added sugars, unhealthy fats and harmful additives . . . designed to activate” bliss points and cravings through the use of unethical marketing techniques which “target children with manipulative imagery and stressed-out parents with ‘easy’ solutions for feeding and satisfying their family” (Erzse 2023). 3. An increase in political influence. Large food corporations “use their economic power (employment, tax revenues) to support corporate lobbying that weakens government policy” (Erzse 2023). The result of this influence by large food manufacturers are “Happy Eating” portrayals in ultra-processed food advertisements which give consumers misleading ideas about the healthiness of these products and promote food addiction behaviors. A remedy for managing the power advertising has over choices is to embark on “a human reclamation project” similar to reclamation undertaken to return natural resources to the land in which individuals “are more careful about how they spend their attention” by being “selective in what social media to use (if any) or reserving blocks of time to be spent beyond

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the reach of the attention merchants” (Wu 2016, 350–351). Wu notes that this practice can be challenging, and that “better alternatives” are needed so that technology can once again work toward “enhancing and serving humanity” which can be used to increase focus and thinking “rather than distract and diminish” (2016, 351). He also advocates for “increased scrutiny” of an advertising industry which now holds humans hostage with placement of advertising screens in areas where avoiding them is impossible such as waiting rooms and gas pumps (Wu 2016, 352). Wu further describes a world in which this “attention theft” can result in a future that is “nothing more than the running total of . . . individual mental states” by advertisers if actions are not taken to “reclaim ownership of the very experience of living” (2016, 352–353). In a similar manner, Kelso underscores the importance of awareness about the values and beliefs not shown in advertisements. Among these are the physical process and conditions involved in the creation of the products which can sometimes include sweatshop labor; the destruction of the environment involved in making the product or the packaging for that item; and the consequences of imitating the “physical perfection shown in the ads” (Kelso 2019, 150). He further notes that images of flawlesslooking men and women in advertisements can result in low self-esteem in consumers as the images they see are unobtainable in real life without the technology used in the advertisements to wipe away “imperfections” (Kelso 2019, 151). “REAL FOOD” IS THE SOLUTION While the advertising industry has made little progress in changing, there are other areas in which progress has been made. One of these areas is to create awareness about food production methods. This is evidenced by a recent glut of books which describe the dangers of eating ultra-processed foods in general or specific ultra-processed food substances. Some of these books include: Metabolical: The Lure and the Lies of Processed Food, Nutrition, and Modern Medicine by Robert H. Lustig (2021) Hooked: Food, Free Will, and How the Food Giants Exploit Our Addictions by Michael Moss (2021) Processed Food Addiction: Foundations, Assessment and Recovery by Joan Ifland, Marianne T. Marcus & Harry G. Preuss (2020) Wheat Belly (Revised and Expanded Edition): Lose the Wheat, Lose the Weight, and Find Your Path Back to Health by William Davis (2019)

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Grain Brain: The Surprising Truth about Wheat, Carbs, and Sugar--Your Brain’s Silent Killers by David Perlmutter & Kristin Loberg (2018) The Hacking of the American Mind: The Science behind the Corporate Takeover of Our Bodies and Brains by Robert H. Lustig (2017) Sugar Crush: How to Reduce Inflammation, Reverse Nerve Damage, and Reclaim Good Health by Dr. Richard Jacoby and Raquel Baldelomar (2016) The Case against Sugar by Gary Taubes (2016) Food Politics: How the Food Industry Influences Nutrition and Health by Marion Nestle (third printing, 2013) Salt, Sugar, Fat: How the Food Giants Hooked Us by Michael Moss (2013) As Dr. Lustig points out in his book Metabolical, eating “real food” is the only way to improve health and societal disease, yet there are several roadblocks to overcome, which include those currently addicted to food, misunderstanding by medical professionals, profit-seeking food, and pharma companies as well as the political system in Washington (2021, 374). He says that though it will take work, it is possible for change to happen, noting that in forty years’ time some things have changed, including bans on smoking in public places and drunk driving, seatbelt and bicycle helmet laws, and distribution of condoms in bathrooms (Lustig, 2021, 374). In the Epilogue section of his book, he points to a recent report in the Annals of Internal Medicine about a thirteen-year-old boy who ate junk food only and went blind due to micronutrient deficiencies, which, when replaced in his system, did not cure the blindness as evidence of the power food has in determining health and the consequences of not addressing the issue of ultra-processed foods (Lustig 2021, 377). “BITE BACK 2030” Also of note, celebrity chef Jamie Oliver founded a program called “Bite Back 2030” in England to involve young people in the fight against obesity with a goal of halving the obesity rate by 2030. At the program’s website, the “Sinister Side of Sports” is highlighted saying that “Fast-food brands dominate sports-based marketing, and this ruins the experience for many young people.” The organization has also called on food and drink companies to “not hide what’s inside,” pointing out that “half of teens buy products based on the health and nutrition claims on the packaging, yet 57% of products are so high in fat, sugar and salt that they would receive a red traffic light label.” Though not based in the United States, the organization offers reports and information to everyone at its website.

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“FOOD ADDICTION: THE PROBLEM AND THE SOLUTION” Another area in which progress has been made is in creating awareness about food addiction. Efforts to create awareness include those by the nonprofit Food Addiction Institute which provides resources for mental health professionals and the general public about food addiction and treatment as well as the recent introduction of a podcast about food addiction from the International School for Food Addiction Counseling and Treatment (INFACT), an international training program for medical professionals to learn about the disease and how to help those suffering with it. The podcasts, which area available for free on the INFACT website, launched on April 23, 2023, with the first titled “Food Addiction: The Problem and the Solution,” with others following on topics such as recovery, addiction habits, and social factors of the disease. In the first podcast, the misunderstandings by the medical community about food addiction are discussed, including the fact that most doctors and other medical professionals oftentimes treat food addiction with weight loss programs rather than addressing the chemical addiction to certain food substances. It was also noted in the podcast that food addiction is not currently in the DSM-5, the Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders, a publication by the American Psychiatric Association (APA) outlining criteria for the diagnosis and treatment of mental disorders. As outlined in the podcast, food and drug manufacturers are motivated by financial interests to prevent food addiction from being included in the DSM, though the organization did include binge eating disorder (BED) in the latest version of the publication ten years ago. Criteria for BED include having at least one binge a week for three months or more that involves eating large amounts of food in a short period of time while experiencing difficultly stopping. Additional criteria include eating quickly and eating behavior interfering with daily life. A recent article in The New York Times about BED called it “the most common eating disorder” as well as the “least understood” (Blum 2023). In the article, Kaitlin Schaefer, thirty-six, who manages corporate sustainability efforts for a clothing brand in Toronto, talks about how quickly time went by while she was bingeing on ice cream, while Kelsey Grennan, twenty-five, who shares her experience on TikTok, noted that she used food to soothe stress as a means of “wanting to escape” from situation in her life (Blum 2023). Treatment methods for BED mentioned in the article focus mainly on cognitive behavioral therapy, with mention of only one FDA-approved drug—“Vyvanse, a drug often used to treat attention deficit hyperactivity disorder” (Blum 2023). Food addiction is not mentioned in the article, nor is the possibility of a chemical addiction to certain food substances.

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“FOOD ADDICTION: A NEW SUBSTANCE USE DISORDER?” In 2009, the Yale Food Addiction Scale (YFAS) was created to assess food addiction in individuals by then Yale graduate student Ashely Gearhardt along with colleagues Kelley Brownell, and William Corbin. The 25-question scale was developed using criteria in the DSM-IV for substance use similar to alcohol and drug addiction to assess such things as consumption control, repeated desire or unsuccessful attempts to stop overeating, withdrawal, and significant impairment. In 2016, YFAS was updated to reflect significant changes in the substance use disorder section of the most recent version of the DSM. Known as YFAS 2.0, it put greater focus on obesity. In a 2019 review of literature regarding diagnosis and treatment of food addiction in relation to the DSM-V, the authors concluded that there is evidence to suggest that, for some individuals, food can induce addictive-type behaviours similar to those seen with other addictive substances. However, with several DSM-5 criteria having limited application to overeating, the term “food addiction” is likely to apply only in a minority of cases. (Adams, et al. 2019)

The researchers in this study also noted that “The available evidence suggests, therefore, that some individuals are capable of experiencing an addictive-type relationship with food, although the majority of individuals who compulsively overeat are unlikely to receive such a diagnosis” and that “there are differences between the addictive characteristics of food and illicit substances, there are many parallels that should not be ignored,” resulting in food addiction remaining a “hotly debated” idea (Adams, et al. 2019). At the 2023 Annual Meeting of the American Psychiatric Association in San Francisco, Gearhardt, now an associate professor of psychology at the University of Michigan, joined Dr. Gene-Jack Wang, a senior clinician and lab director from National Institute on Alcohol Abuse and Alcoholism (NIAAA), and Dr. George F. Koob, director of NIAAA, with Dr. Nora Volkow, director of the National Institute on Drug Abuse (NIDA) at the National Institutes of Health, serving as a discussant, in a session titled “Food Addiction: A New Substance Use Disorder?” In the panel description it was noted that the previous fifty years have marked an “increase in palatable foods that contain unnaturally high levels of refined carbohydrates and added fats (e.g., ice cream, cookies, chips)” that “has been accompanied by stark increases in loss-of-control eating, obesity, and diet-related disease” (American Psychiatric Association Annual Meeting 2023). The researchers point to increasing scientific evidence confirming that “some types of food can trigger neural and behavioral changes implicated in addiction,” further noting that

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“approximately 14% of adults and 12% of children exhibit clinically significant levels of ‘food addiction’ based on the DSM 5 criteria for substance use disorders” (American Psychiatric Association Annual Meeting 2023). In addition to this they point out that “food addiction is associated with poorer quality of life, worse treatment prognosis, and greater psychopathology,” yet is “not currently included as a recognized or provisional diagnostic category in the DSM 5” (American Psychiatric Association Annual Meeting 2023). The researchers working in conjunction with the nonprofit Food Addiction Institute (FAI) are currently gathering letters of support from science professionals and clinicians who have experience in assessing and treating food addiction to submit with an application to the APA for inclusion of food addiction as a substance use disorder. The application is due to be submitted within the next year or two.

MEDIA LITERACY EDUCATION Most media scholars agree that media literacy education is the most effective means of counteracting unhealthy portrayals in both advertising and the general media. The Center For Media Literacy at its website defines media literacy as “a 21st century approach to education” which “provides a framework to access, analyze, evaluate, create and participate with messages in a variety of forms—from print to video to the Internet” as well as building “an understanding of the role of media in society” along with the “essential skills of inquiry and self-expression necessary for citizens of a democracy.” At the National Association for Media Literacy Education’s (NAMLE) website, it’s noted that the organization has experienced an increase from 300 members in 2015 to over 5,000 currently, “signifying a remarkable expansion of interest in and demand for media literacy education,” even though there is no formal governmental effort underway. To bring awareness to the need for media literacy education, both formal and to the general public, the organization also sponsors National Media Literacy Week with 2023’s theme designed to celebrate “one of the five components of media literacy’s definition each day of Media Literacy Week: Access, Analyze, Evaluate, Create, and Act.” As author Jean Kilbourne points out in her book Deadly Persuasion: Why Women and Girls Must Fight the Addictive Power of Advertising, Huge and powerful industries—alcohol, tobacco, junk food, guns, diet—depend upon a media-illiterate population. Indeed, they depend upon a population that is disempowered and addicted. These industries will and do fight our efforts with all their mighty resources. And we will fight back, using the tools of media

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education which enable us to understand, analyze, interpret, to expose hidden agendas and manipulation, to bring about constructive change, and to further positive aspects of the media. (1999)

Research has shown that media literacy education can be a beneficial tool in the eating disorder recovery process (Bindig Yousman 2021). In a recent study, an education-recognition-activism (ERA) curriculum was created and implemented for women in a partial-outpatient treatment program in New England. As part of the study, four-weekly, fifty-minute group sessions were held, with the goal of increasing media literacy and creating a sense of empowerment for participants. The process involved four steps, which 1. explored the foundations of critical media literacy by applying them to popular media culture, 2. reflected on their emotional responses to media, 3. considered how dominant media messages and social forces conflicted with personal goals for a healthy life, and 4. engaged in activism by writing letters to organizations that contributed to or challenged toxic media culture. (Bindig Yousman 2021, 45)

As noted in the researcher’s discussion, “some participants reported valuing and enjoying critical viewing skills because it helped them evaluate the realism or truthfulness of media messages,” while others “noted that learning how media can affect individuals was the most valuable aspect of the ERA curriculum” (Bindig Yousman 2021, 47). Further noted in the conclusion is the process of media literacy education being “successfully integrated into eating disorder treatment .  .  . opening up new possibilities for treatment models” and also “positively impacting the lives of those who perceive it as valuable and enjoyable” (Bindig Yousman 2021, 54). As one step in the direction of encouraging the development of media literacy, this book strives to create awareness about the addictive behaviors portrayed in food advertisements, which involve themed “Happy Eating” portrayals leading viewers to believe that eating ultra-processed foods can help them to rebel against healthy eating, play and have fun, encourage relaxation, create happiness, replace exercise, improve health, increase intelligence, show affection, bond with others, and improve the environment. Each of these things has been discussed within the pages of this book to shed light on the dangerous marketing techniques involved in the promotion of ultraprocessed foods.

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Index

Activia yogurt, 73–75 Advertising Research Foundation, 174 Armour’s Extract of Beef and Bouillon Cubes, 9 Arnold Bread, 66–67, 181–82

dextrose, 103–4 Dove Ice cream Bar, 55, 57–58 Dove Large Promises, 51–52

Baked Lay’s Potato Crisps, 120 Barnum’s Animal Crackers, 43–45 Ben & Jerry’s ice cream, 182–83 Bernays, Edward, 70 Binge Eating Disorder/Food Addiction Advertising Analysis Chart, 18 Breyers Ice Cream, 107–8 Budweiser, 175 Burger King, 24–27

food addiction: definition, 2, 15 food hoarding, 184 The Food Pyramid, 117 Fritos, 167–68 Fruit Roll-Ups, 123–25 Fruity Pebbles cereal, 86

Campbell’s Soup, 129–32, 140–42, 165–66 Cheerios, 85–86, 105–7, 157–59 Cheez-It, 64–65 Chilly Cow Ice Cream, 122 Cinnamon Toast Crunch cereal, 105–7 Cocoa Puffs cereal, 105–7 Coke, 169–70 COVID washing, 63 Cracker Jack, 40–43 Crave For Candy campaign, 79–81 Crisco, 8

Extend Nutritional Bars, 98

Gatorade, 99–101 Goodness Knows Snack Squares, 87–88 Grape Nuts, 69–71 Häagen-Dazs, 1, 96, 165 “Happy Violence,” 5, 11–12 Hardees, 29–30 Heinz Ketchup, 109–10 Heinz Strained Egg Yolks Baby Food, 143 Hershey’s Chocolate Bar, 165 Honey Nut Cheerios. See Cheerios “human reclamation project,” 190–91 Hunt’s Tomato Paste, 143 Impossible Foods, 184–85

219

220

Index

Jane Parker, 142–43 Jif peanut butter, 137–38 Keebler Fudge Stripes Cookies, 156 Keebler Fudgy Fudge Cookies, 82–83 Kellogg’s Frosted Flakes, 3–5, 34–40, 165 Kellogg’s Rice Krispies, 69–70 Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC), 56–57 Kool-Aid Man, 75–77 Kraft Mac & Cheese, 59–60 Lay’s potato chips, 72–73, 168 Life Savers candy, 139–40 Lily’s Sweets Salted Almond Milk Chocolate Style Bar, 108–9 Little Caesars’ pretzel crust pizza, 78–79 love slogans, 163 M&M’s, 172–73 Magic Spoon cereal, 23–24 McDonald’s, 21–23, 31–33, 52–55 media literacy and eating disorder recovery, 196 Melin’s “Food Babies,” 10–11 National Donut Week, 133 Nature’s Pride Bread, 160 Nature Valley, 178–80 Nordic Waffles, 64 NOVA International Nutritional System, 2, 16–17 Ocean Spray Cranbury Juice, 110–12, 185–86 Oprah Winfrey. See Weight Watchers Ore Ida’s Just Crack an Egg, 173–74 Oscar Mayer, 61 Payday candy bars, 171 Pepperidge Farm Frozen Vegetable Pastry, 130, 132 Pepperidge Farm Goldfish, 114–15 Pepperidge Farm Milano cookies, 65–66 Pepperidge Farm Party Slices, 130, 132 PEZ candies, 177–78

Pillsbury Doughboy, 45–47 Pizza Hut, 166 Poppin’ Fresh. See Pillsbury Doughboy Post Cereal, 61 Post Raisin Bran cereal, 69 Post Toasties, 8 PowerBar, 97 Pringles Fat Free Potato Chips, 119 Pure Protein Bar, 97 Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, 170–71 Reese’s Puffs cereal, 105–7 Rice Chex, 71 RITZ crackers, 121, 167 Shredded Wheat cereal, 138–39 SkinnyPop Popcorn, 125–29 Skippy peanut butter, 155 Smart Balance, 147–49 Smartfood Popcorn, 144–47 Smucker’s Strawberry Preserves, 123 Snack Well’s cookies, 117–19 The Snack Well’s Effect, 118 Snickers Ice Cream, 51 Special K cereal, 133–35 The Sugar Research Foundation, 116–17 Sunshine Crispy Saltines, 71 Swanson Swiss steak dinner, 52 Sweethearts candy, 159 Swift’s Meats For Babies, 143 Totino’s Pizza Rolls, 166 Trix cereal, 105–7 Wall’s ice cream, 183–84 Weight Watchers, 160–62 Wendy’s, 19–20 Wheat Chex, 71 Wheaties cereal, 93–95 Wheat Thins, 112–14 Whitman’s Chocolate Samplers, 151–55 World Obesity Foundation, 6 Yale Food Addiction Scale, 194 Yoplait yogurt, 88–91

About the Author

Debbie Danowski, PhD, is an associate professor of Communication Studies in the School of Communication, Media & the Arts at Sacred Heart University. Her research focuses on representations of addictive behavior and body image in advertising. She has been published in Media Literacy and Academic Research, Popular Culture Studies Journal, Journal of the Communication, Speech & Theatre Association of North Dakota, Journal of American College Health, as well as One Size Does Not Fit All: Undressing the Performance of Bodies in Popular Culture and Women, Wellness and the Media. She is also the author of five popular books about food addiction and emotional eating.

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