Growing & Using Lavender 0882664751

Table of contents :
Contents
Lavender
Types of Lavender
Hardy Lavenders
Tender Lavenders
Other Lavenders
Growing and Culture
Propagation
Planting Location and Soil Conditions
Container Gardening
Pruning
Harvest
Maintenance
Uses of Lavender
Medicinal Uses
Cooking with Lavender
Lavender Crafts
Potpourri

Citation preview

Growing and Using Lavender Pa tti Ba r r e tt

CONTENTS Lavender.........................................................................................3 Types of Lavender ........................................................................4 Hardy Lavenders......................................................................4 Tender Lavenders ....................................................................7 Other Lavenders ......................................................................8 Growing and Culture ..................................................................9 Propagation ...............................................................................9 Planting Location and Soil Conditions .............................13 Container Gardening ............................................................13 Pruning ....................................................................................14 Harvest.....................................................................................14 Maintenance............................................................................15 Uses of Lavender........................................................................16 Medicinal Uses .......................................................................16 Cooking with Lavender ........................................................20 Lavender Crafts......................................................................24 Potpourri .................................................................................28

Lavender What could be more delightful than a row of lavender in the garden or a big pot of lavender next to a doorway, delighting all who pass with its heavenly fragrance? The different lavenders offer much in varied growing habits, versatility in the garden, and a variety of uses when harvested. Many people grow lavender just for its lovely scent, which lasts for a long time once dried; others grow lavender for its color — both of the blossoms and the foliage — which adds a touch of old-time charm to any garden or container planting. Lavender is the best known of the fragrant herbs and has been loved and treasured for centuries. The Romans and North Africans used lavender to scent the water in public baths. Lavender was even found in the traveling kits of Roman legions and was used as a disinfectant. This use carried over into medieval times and up through today. The streets of 19th century London were full of girls selling nosegays of lavender and violets. The lavender name comes from the Latin “lavare,” to wash, indicating its use both in baths and for clothes. Our word laundress comes from “lavandre.” In 1579, Langham wrote “[add] lavender in water, wet thy shirt in it and dry it again and wear it.” Most lavenders are natives of the Mediterranean region, the islands of the Atlantic, Asia Minor, and India, but they are now grown all over the world. There are 28 known species. The most common are divided into two types: hardy lavenders, inclusive of English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia and cultivars), and tender lavenders, inclusive of French lavender (Lavandula dentata). Lavenders are easy to grow and care for in the garden, and the flowers with their redolent oils are so habit forming that once you start growing this fetching plant you cannot get enough. The few plants of lavender you start with will soon expand — until you are experimenting with many different varieties and have lavender tucked into every extra space. Lavender has the double delight of sharing its fragrance in midsummer and again in the winter when the lingering scent will bring a touch of warmth to the coldest day.

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Types of Lavender Lavender has many varieties of varying degrees of hardiness. In places like California it is possible to grow many tender species of lavender, whereas in the northeastern United States these tender plants will not make it through the winter and must be treated as annuals (replanted each spring). Some of the hardier varieties will make it through the colder weather with protection, up to and including Zone 4, but if it’s a hard winter with little snow cover even these hardy plants may not last. It is a good idea to experiment with a few varieties, seeing which work best where you garden. In this way you may find some species that you cannot live without and will plant every spring and others that are hardier and will live for many years without replanting.

Hardy Lavenders Native to the Mediterranean area, hardy lavenders are sometimes known as English lavenders. They are well-suited to English climate conditions and like the long hours of summer daylight without excessive heat. All of the hardy lavenders have gray foliage and flowers arranged in a spike. The flowers are generally lavender in color. Hardy lavenders are considered perennials though they can be grown as annuals in areas where they will not winter-over well. They don’t grow quite as tall as the tender lavenders (see page 7) and they flower only once a year. Some of the world’s finest oil of lavender comes from the flowers of these plants. This oil is very intense in fragrance — it is from these plants that we get the lavender oil that is distilled into perfume. These garden lavenders can live through the winter in Zones 5 through 8. They are mostly shrubby plants and have narrow gray leaves. The old plants can look good throughout the winter as they sit in the garden with their woody stems. New growth is more green than gray. The narrow leaves of different varieties vary in size on different parts of the plants, and some flower spikes are tapered while others are blunt. The stems that carry the flowers are square, rise above the foliage, and harden after the plant goes to seed. Some of the varieties in this group include: -4-

Dwarf Munstead, Lavandula angustifolia ‘Dwarf Munstead’ This cultivar, named after gardener and garden writer Gertrude Jekyll’s home in England, is the earliest to bloom, showing flowers in the second year from seed. Its flower spikes are a true lavender color, and the two-lipped flowers are closely packed together at the ends of the stems. It is a low-growing, compact bush with many heads of lavender-blue flowers growing on stems that are about 4 inches in length. A popular variety, Munstead does well in garden beds or can be planted in containers. Folgate Blue, Lavandula angustifolia ‘Folgate Blue’ ‘Folgate Blue’ has a growing habit similar to ‘Dwarf Munstead’, but has “bluer” flowers and grows into a slightly larger bush. Grey Hedge, Lavandula angustifolia ‘Grey Hedge’ ‘Grey Hedge’ is a taller variety than ‘Dwarf Munstead’ or ‘Folgate Blue’, with silver-gray foliage. The flower spikes are thin and pointed, and the flowers are mauve. Hidcote Purple, Lavandula angustifolia ‘Hidcote Purple’ Known for its dark purple spikes, which can be striking in a garden setting, ‘Hidcote Purple’ grows nearly 24 to 30 inches high and has lovely long blossoms. Old English, Lavandula angustifolia ‘Old English’ Leaves on ‘Old English’ are broader and greener than those of ‘Grey Hedge’. It has narrow, mauve-colored flower spikes. Seal, Lavandula angustifolia ‘Seal’ A tall plant that can reach 3 feet in height under the right growing conditions, ‘Seal’ is a free-flowering plant with very long stems. The leaves are gray-green and flowers a blue-mauve. It can bloom for extended periods of time, up to four months, in gardens where it thrives. Twickel Purple, Lavandula angustifolia ‘Twickel Purple’ ‘Twickel Purple’ is unusual in that its spikes grow in a fan formation. It is smaller than ‘Hidcote Purple’ with long, deep mauve flower spikes.

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Broad-leafed Lavender, Lavandula latifolia This is a much broader-leafed plant that is less free-flowering than those above. It has received the most attention commercially because of its fragrant oil. The foliage of Lavandula latifolia is a clear gray color and slender. Branched stalks carry flower spikes similar to those of many lavenders, although they aren’t as showy as most. In France, Lavandula latifolia is also known as aspic lavender, said to be a name that refers to a belief that small poisonous snakes lived in the plant. But it may be more likely that the name comes from the word “espic” meaning “spike.” Dutch Lavender, Lavandula x intermedia Dutch lavender is a cross between Lavandula angustifolia and Lavandula latifolia. It has narrower leaves than the latter and is broader than the former. The flowers are in long, branched spikes. These plants bloom later than the low-growing lavenders and tend to have a good strong scent. Pink Lavender, Lavandula angustifolia ‘Rosea’ Pink lavender has about the same growth characteristics as ‘Folgate Blue’, upright with narrow leaves. Its flowers, as its name describes, are a light pink that stand out well against the silver-gray foliage. White Lavender, Lavandula angustifolia ‘Alba’ White lavender has spikes of white flowers. It’s leaves are long compared to other varieties, growing broad and quite silver. It is not abundantly free-flowering but has a pure lavender fragrance. Some white lavenders are dwarf, growing to just 6 inches high with short, narrow, gray leaves and tiny heads of white flowers. Woolly Lavender, Lavandula lanata Lavandula lanata is a sweet-scented lavender. It is a short shrub, 2 to 3 feet tall, and can grow as wide. The leaves are a light gray, about two inches long, and look thin because the margins are rolled under. The plant has a woolly appearance that comes from many tiny hairs on the leaf and stem surfaces. The flower spike can be up to a foot long, and is unusual in that several small flower heads can grow along the spike. Dark blue flowers cover the heads.

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Tender Lavenders Native to Spain and southern France, tender lavenders are sometimes known as French lavenders. They are distinguished from other lavenders by the colored bracts at the tops of the flower heads. These bracts are so showy that they are often mistaken for the flowers, but are really only colored leaves. These are known as the “tender” lavenders because they need to grow in full sun and in a richer soil than the hardy varieties. The tender lavenders may grow up to three feet in height in frost-free areas. Flower stems of tender lavenders tend to be weaker and more arching than the hardier types, and leaves tend to be more green than gray. Lavandula stoechas Lavandula stoechas is the lavender of history that was used as a disinfectant from the time of ancient Rome until the Middle Ages. The gray-green pointed foliage of this variety has a distinct pungent, soft camphorous fragrance. The flower spike of Lavandula stoechas is compressed into an irregular globe shape on which small lavender flowers hide between flat purple bracts. Two long purple bracts point upward from the top of the flower head, reaching as high as 1½ inches in length. In France, where this variety is common, the plants grow along the southern coast in acid soils. The plant’s name, stoechas, comes from Stoechades, an ancient name for the islands on the Mediterranean harbor off today’s Hyères, France. Lavandula dentata This plant has dainty green leaves, toothed along the margins. Also called Spanish or French lavender, the fragrance of its foliage is a bit camphorous with a hint of balsam. The small, lavender flowers on long stems open successively on the thin cone-shaped head, which is topped with lavender bracts. They flower prolifically much of the year. The scent is not as lasting as that of the English lavender. In warm conditions, Lavandula dentata can grow as much as three feet in height and width if not pruned.

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Lavandula dentata candicans This is similar to Lavandula dentata but the foliage is heavier and grayer. It is hardier than Lavandula dentata and a more vigorous grower. Lavandula stoechas ssp. pedunculata Also known as Spanish lavender, this is an upright perennial with long, narrow, green-gray leaves and long, magenta-purple bracts. Lavandula viridis Lavandula viridis, also known as the green lavender, is a perennial with long, narrow, sticky green leaves and a pine-lavender scent. It has medium-length stalks. The bracts and the tiny flowers, set in a greenish cone, are creamy white. Lavandula heterophylla Lavandula heterophylla, also known as sweet lavender, has silvergray leaves which are sometimes toothed along the edges. The plants can grow up to three feet in height and have deep lavender flowers.

Other Lavenders Lavandula multifida These lavenders, while not that common, are interesting plants. They have green, fern-like leaves from which the name multifida (meaning “much divided”) comes. The plants are upright in growth with strong, square stems. Flowers occur in winged spikes and are deep lavender. The flowers bloom for up to six months at a time, with most of them coming on in late summer. Native to North Africa and Portugal, these very tender plants need protection in winter. Lavandula pinnata This is a delicate lavender with lilac-blue flowers that will appear almost year-round if the plant is sheltered. It has soft, gray-green leaves. The entire plant is covered with short white hairs giving it a slightly fuzzy appearance. Lavandula pinnata can grow up to three feet in height.

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Growing and Culture Propagation Tender lavender is fairly easy to propagate by seed, cuttings, or layering. Hardy lavendar is best propagated by cuttings or layering. By seed. To start seed indoors, choose a seed flat with good drainage and fill it to within 1 inch of the top with sterile potting mixture.

Sift a ½-inch layer of clean sand over the top. Level the surface with a flat board.

Spread the seed over the soil, evenly and not too thickly, then press the seeds in with the flat side of the board.

Sprinkle soil over seeds until they are just covered.

Use a flat board to firm the soil a second time.

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Water liberally but gently with a fine spray that will not disturb the seeds. Place the seed flat in a plastic bag. You should not have to do any more watering until the seedlings come up, in about 14 days. Put them in a place where the temperature remains at about 70–75°F. As soon as the seeds germinate, remove the plastic covering and place the seed flat in an unshaded south window or under fluorescent lights. Keep the soil mixture moist, but never completely wet, or the seedlings will rot. If the medium starts to lighten in color, that is a sign that it is drying out. Check every day to see if water is needed. Watering from the bottom is best until the seedlings reach a fairly good size, since watering from above can dislodge young plants or knock them over. If you do water from above, water between the seedling rows. If seedlings are grown on the windowsill or at the edge of the lighted area, they should be turned regularly so they will grow straight and evenly. Once the first true leaves have developed, use a soluble plant food at one-quarter the label strength; increase to one-half the label strength as the plants mature. It is possible to plant seedlings directly from the seed flat to the garden, but this is generally not advised. Seedlings should be transplanted to a larger container first, so they will not be crowded, leggy, weak, or susceptible to damage. A flat with dividers or compartments leads to more compact root development and easier transplanting, without shock to the roots. After the seedlings have developed four true leaves, it is time to transplant. First water the seedlings thoroughly. Fill the new container with pre-moistened soil mix to just below the top of the container. With a label stick or pencil, open a hole in the center of the mix, deep and wide enough to fit the seedling’s roots. Separate them carefully so as not to break any more roots than necessary. A small amount of soil mix should cling to the seedling’s roots. Always handle a seedling by its leaves and never by its stem; if damage is accidentally done, the seedlings can grow a new leaf, but never a new stem.

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Using a ladle, spoon handle, fork, or similar tool, gently lift the seedlings from the flat.

Lower the seedling into the hole you made, placing it slightly deeper than it was growing in the seed flat, and gently press the soil mix around the roots. Keep the transplants in good light but not full sun for several days, increasing the light intensity gradually. If you’ve transplanted during cloudy weather, the containers can go right onto the windowsill; if you grow under lights, the transplants can go under the fluorescents right away. If the plants become tall and spindly later on, they’re not getting enough light. Water when necessary, never allowing the transplants to wilt, and keeping the medium evenly moist but not soaking wet. Once a week, when watering, add soluble fertilizer at one-half the recommended label strength. One week before the indoor-grown seedlings are shifted outdoors to the garden, start to harden them off. This process acclimates the soft and tender plants, which have been protected from wind, cool temperatures, and strong sun, and gradually gets them used to their new environment. Move the flats of plants outside into a sheltered, shady area such as a porch, cold frame, or under a tree or shrub. If it gets cold at night, move them back inside. After two or three days, give them half a day of sun, increasing the exposure gradually to a full day. Make sure the transplants are well watered during this hardening off period. Don’t place transplants on the ground if slugs are a problem in your area. By stem cuttings. Hardy lavender is difficult to start from seed. Often its seeds do not produce plants identical to the original, and it may take up to a month to germinate. A better way to propagate - 11 -

these plants is with cuttings from established plants at least three years old in the spring or fall. Instead of simply clipping a 2- to 3inch-long sideshoot, some gardeners prefer to pull a healthy sideshoot downward so that a piece of older wood comes along with it. Dust the cuttings with root-promoting hormone powder to help prevent rotting and speed up rooting. The health of the stem you choose for a cutting is most important to the success of the project. Avoid thin, crooked stems or those that show any yellowing or brown leaves. Place the cuttings 3 to 4 inches apart in moist, sandy soil. Keep the plants pruned during the first year to encourage branching. By layering. You can also propagate lavenders vegetatively by layering — covering low-lying stems with soil until they root. Both layering and cuttings will ensure that the new plants will keep the qualities of the parent plant. Choose a healthy stem and remove the leaves from the part you are going to bury. Hold down with a curved twig or wire, and check regularly to see when roots develop. Allow the new plant to grow in place until the following year, then carefully cut the stem and re-plant the new plant.

To propagate lavender by layering: Choose a healthy stem and remove the leaves from the part you are going to bury. Hold the bare section of stem down with a curved twig or wire, and cover it with soil. - 12 -

Short-cut propagation If you have little patience for either of the above methods, you may try taking a few three-inch-long healthy stems and placing them in a short glass of water. Remove any leaves from the lower part of the stem and keep in water with at least the upper third of the stem above the rim of the jar. Change the water daily. Leave the jar in a well-lit northern or eastern window, and in about six to eight weeks you may have enough roots to plant the small cuttings in small pots of clean soil.

Planting Location and Soil Conditions When growing lavenders in the garden be sure to pick a site that is very well drained and receives at least six hours of direct sun. The amount of humus in the soil is most important to lavender growth, so be sure the garden area you choose is rich in compost. If the soil is sandy or full of clay, mix large amounts of compost into the soil before planting. Lavenders like a moderately alkaline soil with a pH between 6.5 and 7. Any aid to growth the first summer is helpful as lavender plants are small the first year and subject to winterkill. Once established, plant 12 inches apart — or more, depending on the mature size of the variety. Lavenders take well to a light mulch around the roots. A light straw mulch or a mulch of an inch or two of sand around the base of the plants can increase winter survival. Most plants need protection in the winter. Pine boughs, light straw, or even covering a larger plant with a bushel basket can help in winter climes. When choosing a planting site, try to avoid areas that get sharp winds in the winter. When planting lavender in colder climes, the nearer the protection of a house or a stone wall, the better.

Container Gardening Tender lavenders can also be grown in pots. Choose a container that is about 2 to 5 inches larger in diameter than the root ball of the plant. Make sure the pot has good drainage holes, and choose a - 13 -

growing medium that drains well. If roots are soggy for any length of time, a root rot quickly develops and will kill the plant. A soilless mix of peat, vermiculite, and perlite can work well. Many pre-mixed soilless planting mediums can be found at local garden centers. Container-grown lavenders can be outdoors all summer long. During the summer the plants will need plenty of water and fertilizer. Apply a liquid fertilizer of 20-10-20 about once a month. After bringing them inside in the fall, give the lavenders a lot of sunlight. Stems will weaken if they don’t receive enough sun. Artificial light indoors can work well and you may be rewarded with bloom in mid-winter!

Pruning Pruning lavenders, whether in pots or in the ground, will keep them attractive. As much as one-half the stem length can be taken off without any damage. Frequent pruning may delay bloom, so it should be done in very early spring or in the fall after most blooming has occurred. In the spring, pruning old bushes back to new shoots toward the base of the bush, can stimulate new growth and help the plants from becoming too woody. (It also gives a good supply of cuttings for new plants!) Pruning again right after flowering — cutting back and shaping the plants — is another good idea. A small hedge of well-clipped lavenders make an excellent border for a small herb or flower garden.

Harvest One of the most pleasant aspects of growing herbs is when it comes time to harvest them. The lovely, fragrant blossoms of lavender are especially easy and rewarding to harvest as they hold up well with little care. Pick the mature herb early in the morning, just after the dew has had a chance to dry. This is so the essential oils — what gives the plant its fragrance — won’t lose their quality when exposed to the heat of the sun. It is best not to pick lavender when wet as it will take longer to dry. A cool, sunny, dry morning is best for picking.

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Spikes of lavender should be cut as soon as most of the flowers in the head are open but before any begin to fade. The stems should be cut where they meet the leaves, and the stalks tied in bundles in large brown paper bags — so that the flowers do not touch the paper — and hung in a dry, airy, warm place out of any direct sunlight. The stems can also be spread on a cloth-covered screen in a shady room that is well ventilated. Keep moist heat away from the lavender stems while they are drying. Too hot and sunny a drying place will evaporate the essential oil and fade the colors. When dry, the flowers should be stripped from the stalks (if you want to use just the flowers) and kept in dark glass, airtight containers, for use later. You can also dry lavender by simply bunching it together and hanging it upside down. It will not keep the attractive scent for long, but it will keep its color and shape and can be used later in dried arrangements. This also works to dry lavender that has been previously used in a mixed flower arrangement.

Maintenance After harvesting is a good time to side dress the plants with a bit of lime or compost. If you are lucky enough to have early bloom and live in a warm climate, you will be rewarded with a second bloom before too long. Those of us in colder regions are usually happy with one harvest. In the north, prune lavenders back after harvesting, when the plants will soon need to be protected from the harsh winter conditions.

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Uses of Lavender Lavender seems to be gaining in popularity lately. Everywhere you look there seem to be lavender-scented items for the bed and bath as well as a wide variety of lavender oils and essences to create your own scented delights. And its scent is just that — a real delight. It evokes fields of summer sun and grandmother’s houses of long ago that seemed to be naturally filled with its thick fragrance, creating a healing atmosphere one longs to imitate in today’s harried world.

Medicinal Uses Lavender has been used medicinally for years. Dioscorides in the first century BCE said lavender was good for “griefs in ye thorax,” and today many caregivers like to place lavender in sick rooms and hospices to ease a patient’s distress. Just smelling the fresh herb is said to relieve headaches, and herbalists of yore were certain it cured everything from cramps to migraines, tremblings, and passions of the heart. The oil was believed to be anti-aphrodisiac, which might explain its popularity in Victorian times. While lavender has been used for washing since ancient times, in European folk tradition it is also regarded as a useful wound herb and a worm remedy for children.

Toilet Water for Easing Headaches 1½ cups dried lavender flowers 1 pint cider vinegar 1 cup rosewater Place lavender in glass jar, pour on vinegar and leave for a week in a cool, dry place, shaking each day. After a week, strain through muslin and stir in rosewater. Use on temples to give relief from headaches caused by fatigue.

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Many parts of the lavender are used for medicinal purposes. Flowers are less potent than the essential oil of the herb, and are useful for nervous exhaustion, headaches, and indigestion. Flowers ■ ■ ■

Infusion. For nervous exhaustion, tension headaches, or during labor. Also can be used for colic and indigestion. Tincture. Take up to 5 ml. twice a day for headaches and depression. Mouthwash. Use as a mouthwash to help with bad breath.

Essential Oil ■ Add a few drops of the oil to a calendula cream for skin trouble. ■ Add a few drops of the oil to water for sunburn soother. ■ Dilute 8 drops of oil in water to use as a hair rinse. ■ Add lavender to your favorite unscented oil and use as a massage to ease tension headaches. Or use the essential oil itself. At the first sign of a headache gently massage the oil into the temples and around the head and neck. ■ Apply undiluted oil to insect bites and stings.

INFUSION An infusion is made the same way as a hot tea. The water should be just about to boil when you use it. It is best to make fresh infusions each day, and to use the flowers or leafy parts of the plant. You may drink it hot or cold. Put the herb in a pot with a close-fitting lid, such as a teapot. Pour hot water over the herbs. Leave to infuse for 10 minutes, then pour through cheesecloth or a fine sieve into a teacup. Store the rest in a glass jar in a cool place.

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TINCTURE Tinctures are tricky to make and require the use of a wine press. They may not be worth the effort as they can be found in many health food and herbal shops. But if you have a big crop of lavender you may want to try to make your own. Steep the fresh or dried herb in a mixture that is 25 percent alcohol (in the form of rum or vodka, not rubbing alcohol) and 75 percent water. Use about 600 grams of fresh lavender to 1 liter of a 25 percent alcohol/water mixture. Put the lavender into a large glass jar with the alcohol/water mixture. Seal the jar and store in a cool place for two weeks. Shake occasionally. Fit a piece of cheesecloth around the wine press opening and pour the herb mixture through it. Press through the press into a clean jar or pitcher. Pour the strained liquid into clean, dark glass bottles. When using the tincture, dilute in water first.

LAVENDER AND OATMEAL BAG FOR THE BATH Every mother knows oatmeal baths are good for the skin, as oatmeal softens water. Add lavender and you have a bath that not only smells good but also softens and soothes. Add whatever other herbs you like to the bag as well. 1 ½

cup oatmeal cup or so fresh or dried lavender flowers and tops Another bunch of fresh herbs such as rosemary, lemon balm, and thyme

Combine all ingredients and place in the center of a square of cotton or muslin. Gather up the corners and tie tightly to make a bag. Hold this under the running tap water — but not too hot. While bathing, rub the bag over skin to get extra benefits.

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DREAM PILLOW Place this bag under your pillow at night to relax those jagged nerves. ½ ½ ½

cup dried lavender cup dried hops cup dried lemon balm

Mix all ingredients and fill small cotton or muslin bag. Place under pillow.

Take time to smell the flowers Lavender flowers are always good to have on hand. Keep a bowl of flowers in your bedroom or bring to the hospital when visiting a sick friend. Lavender flowers have always been thought to calm the nerves. Sniff lavender each day and get rid of tension!

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Cooking with Lavender Lavender, surprisingly, can be used in cooking and gives a fresh delightful scent, as you might expect.

LAVENDER SUGAR To use with cookie recipes that follow. Mix a cup of dried lavender blossoms with a cup of sugar. Keep mixing as you use, because it tends to separate while it sits.

LAVENDER COOKIES I 1 ½ 2

cup butter cup sugar A dash of salt cups flour Lavender sugar (recipe above)

Cream the butter and sugar together. Add the salt and flour. Mix with mixer or wooden spoon thoroughly. Chill the dough in refrigerator. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Form dough into small balls and roll in the sugar mix. Place on ungreased cookie sheets and bake 10 to 12 minutes. Cool on racks.

LAVENDER COOKIES II 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour ⅓ cup lavender sugar (recipe on page 19) A pinch of salt 4 tablespoons butter 2 – 3 tablespoons sweet white wine 16 leaves fresh lavender, well minced

Sift the flour, all but 1 tablespoon of the sugar, and the salt into a bowl. Rub in the butter until the mixture resembles bread crumbs. Make a well in the center and add the wine and lavender leaves and stir in gently. Let sit for 15 minutes, stirring every few minutes, until bonded. Then gather into a dough. Roll out dough on a floured board until ⅛-inch thick, and use

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a serrated knife to cut strips about 1 inch by 3 inches. Place on a greased baking sheet, twisting cookies if you like, to make them look like bows. Bake for 8-10 minutes in 375°F. oven.

LAVENDER LEMONADE Steep ½ cup dried lavender flowers in a quart of boiling water for about 5 minutes. Strain and use the liquid to make up part of the water in a frozen lemonade (or limeade) mix. Delightful flavor and fragrance!

LAVENDER VINEGAR Unusual to be sure and with a light pleasing fragrance and taste. Use it on a light green salad with a few fresh strawberries — a touch of summer. 1– 2 4

cups packed fresh lavender and flowers, washed and dried cups white wine vinegar

Wash and dry the herbs thoroughly. Water may cloud the vinegar. Pack herbs into hot, sterilized glass jars using a wooden spoon. Fill with vinegar to one inch below the top of the jar. With the spoon, push the herbs down and lightly bruise them. Cover the top of the jars with plastic before putting the metal lids on. Let the vinegar and herbs steep for about 4 to 6 weeks. Then strain the flavored vinegar through a paper coffee filter. Pour the clear vinegar into hot, sterlized jars or decorative bottles and add a sprig of fresh lavender; seal.

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LAVENDER HONEY This lightly fragrant honey is good on muffins and makes delightful gifts. 1 2

tablespoon fresh lavender, washed and dried well or 1½ teaspoons dried lavender cups honey

Rinse the lavender lightly and place in a cheesecloth bag or directly into the bottom of a saucepan. Pour the honey into the pan over the bag or the loose herbs and heat until just warm; high heat may spoil the honey. Pour the mixture into hot, sterilized glass jars and seal tightly. Store at room temperature for one week. Uncap jars and warm the flavored honey, straining out the herbs. Or leave the fresh herb leaves in the honey for texture and color. Return honey to hot, sterilized jars and seal well.

Standard Directions for Boiling-Water Method of Preserving 1. 2. 3. 4.

5. 6.

Pour, ladle, or pack the prepared ingredients into clean, hot half-pint or pint jars, leaving ¼-inch space at the top. Wipe the rims, put on two-piece lids, and fasten the screw bands. Put the jars on a rack in a deep kettle half full of boiling water and add more boiling water to cover the lids by 2 inches. Cover the pot, bring to a hard boil, and boil for 15 minutes, lowering heat, if necessary. Remove the jars from the boiling water. Cool, remove bands, label, and store. Let the flavors blend for at least a month before using. Refrigerate after opening.

Excerpted from Herbal Vinegars (Storey Publishing, 1995)

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LAVENDER JELLY ½ cup fresh lavender flowers or 6 tablespoons dried 2 2–4 2

cups white dessert wine tablespoons lavender sugar teaspoons unflavored gelatin Juice of one orange

Put the lavender flowers into a glass or enamel pan and add the wine. Heat very gently until the temperature reaches 98°F. Remove from the heat. Strain wine into a bowl, pressing on flowers to extract all the flavor you can. Stir the sugar into the wine until dissolved. Check flavor and add more sugar if needed. Sprinkle gelatin into the orange juice and let soften, then warm gently until dissolved. Stir into the wine mixture and pour the jelly into a clear glass bowl or jar. Chill until set. Let jelly reach room temperature before serving.

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Lavender Crafts Sachets Lavender’s scent is what is most wanted to be preserved from the summer garden. Moths don’t like it, so it is excellent to use in sachets or pomanders to scent a closet or drawer. Sachets are great projects to try with children.

Handkerchief Sachets For a simple sachet, gather dried lavender branches or dried flowers together and place in small handkerchiefs tied into a bundle with a lavender-colored ribbon. Look for old hankerchiefs at garage sales, and try mixing lavender with other scents such as rose geranium or lemon verbena for a different mix. These make lovely gifts or can be simply tucked into lingerie drawers or linen closets.

Net sachets Lavender flowers done up in pretty, colored net squares or bags and decorated with satin ribbons, are easy ways to store the scented blossoms. Gather together squres of colorful material and cut in any size you like. Place a few tablespoons of lavender in the center of each fabric square and gather together with ribbon or lace. Use the sachets to scent your closets, drawers, or luggage. If they lose their scent, you can toss them in a jar, add some lavender essential oil, and let sit for about one week before using.

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Fragrant Drawer liners An old-fashioned, sweet-smelling trick. Cut two pieces of cheesecloth ½-inch larger than the size of the bureau drawer. Cut two pieces of thin cotton padding a bit smaller than the drawer. Lay one piece of cotton flat on a table, sprinkle it with a layer of lavender, cover with the second piece of cotton. Baste the cheesecloth around the edges, then make tackings of threads through the cloths. This will scent the whole drawer, and is easy enough to make that you can make more of them each season.

Lavender Hot Pad Whole lavandula dentata flower heads or English lavender flowers can be quilted into a padding for a fragrant tea cozy or a hot pad for the table. The warmth will bring out the fragrance of the herb. Cut two 10-inch squares of quilted fabric. With right sides together, stitch around three sides. Turn right side out. Fill with another pillow made of lightweight cotton fabric and stuffed with lavender. Sew the opening closed with a hem stitch.

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LAVENDER WANDS If you have never seen a lavender wand you may not be intrigued or understand quite what it is like and why it is so appealing. The intricacy of it and the pleasure of holding it and smelling it and marveling at it is quite amazing. Whether you find yours in a small country village of France or England or enjoy the pleasure of making it yourself, you will be rewarded for years to come. Lavender wands are an old-fashioned way of preserving a favored scent of summer in a way that is so unusual it is bound to please. The lavender is woven and twisted to make a small wand — a wand that surely has to be magical. An odd number (15, 17, 19) of long, sturdy stalks of lavender (Hardy lavenders work best as the stalks are a bit firmer and easier to work with) A yard or so weaving material — satin ribbon, natural twine, or raffia Narrow ribbon and bits of dried flowers for trim

1.

Hold the bunch of lavender stalks — be sure it is an odd number — firmly in one hand just below the flower heads. Tie one end of the weaving material firmly around the bunch of stalks.

2.

Holding the bunch of stalks, flower end down, gently bend each stem down over the flowers. You have to do this carefully so you do not break the stems.

3.

Weave the long end of the weaving material over and under the stems, going around and around the bunch. Keep the rounds very close together. The weave tends to open up as the plant material dries and shrinks.

4.

When you reach the base of the flower bundle, tie the weaving material securely or glue it to the stalks with craft glue or a glue gun.

5.

Dry the wand in a dark place for a few weeks before trimming with the narrow ribbon and a bit of decorative flower.

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LAVENDER BOTTLE Similar to a lavender wand, this old-fashioned treat requires a large quantity of lavender. 1.

Cut about 100 stalks of long lavender (usually French lavender is used for this, but English retains its fragrance longer) when in full bloom. Use newly cut stems, as old ones are too brittle.

2.

Lay the heads together and trim the stem ends so that they are even.

3.

Tie a cord firmly around the bunch about 5 or 6 inches from the flower ends of the stalks.

4.

Holding the bunch with heads down, carefully bend the stalks back over the flower heads and arrange them evenly to form a bottle-like shape. Fasten the stems in this position by tying them snugly with string or ribbon just below the blossoms.

5.

Take a narrow ⅜-inch ribbon or raffia and weave under and over the stems, below the flowers, picking up five or six stems the first time around, and continuing until the stems are covered. Fasten with a bow.

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Potpourri Potpourris are long-lasting fragrant mixes of dried herbs and other broken or crushed plant material. Lavender flowers and rose petals are the basis of many potpourri mixes. Lavender flowers hold up well in mixes and add their fragrance and color to any blend. The name potpourri means “rotten pot”, but the result of making either dry potpourri or moist is a sweet jar! It can be opened to release the aromas of the petals, but when covered the scent will stay for years, giving you pleasant reminders of your garden whenever you lift the jar’s lid. Potpourri is not difficult to make and can be fun for those who enjoy experimenting with what is growing in the garden. Start with a base of about one quart of fragrant, dried materials. Rose petals and lavender flowers are a good start, or you can use rose geranium leaves instead of some of the rose petals. Try marigolds and calen- 28 -

dula for yellow hues, and add the blue of larkspur or the manycolored pansy for an eye catcher. Harvest the flowers, petals, and leaves on a sunny day, early in the morning. Catch the flowers at peak by cutting them off with scissors just after they have opened. Strip leaves quickly by holding stems upright with one hand while pulling downward with the other along the stem. Spread the flowers and leaves on a screen in a warm, dark, wellaired room for several days up to two weeks. You want the material to dry quickly so it will retain the fragrant oils. Gather the material all spring and summer long and store it in a large glass jar with a tight-fitting lid until ready to use. Fixatives. Once you have your mix you will need fixative. Traditional plant-derived fixatives include orris root, rose attar, and sweet flag. These can be purchased at pharmacies. Use about 1 tablespoon of the fixative per quart of your base. Some people like to add a spice mix (such as equal parts of cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and allspice) to the herbs and flowers. The spice mixture must be finely ground; use at the rate of about 1 tablespoon per quart of flowers. You can also add floral essential oils such as rose, jasmine, or more lavender. Many shops sell these oils now, and you only need about 3 to 5 drops per quart of dried material. Citrus peels, dried well and without any pith, add a nice touch to mixes. And dried flowers, even if already used in a floral arrangement, provide color in addition to what you already have chosen. Let the mixture rest for about one month before you use it.

Tussie Mussie A tussie-mussie is a miniature herbal bouquet that can speak for you when words fail. In the nineteenth century, many flowers became associated with specific terms, such as “love,” “friendship,” or “loyalty.” Small flower and herb bouquets were made of blossoms with different meanings in order to express a message. Even if you don’t happen to know the meaning of a flower, however, you can pick what you like and be fairly sure the receiver will like it as well. What better gift than a sweet-smelling bouquet for a shut-in!

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As with most herbal projects, pick the blossoms early in the morning. Place your main flower, say a nice rose bud or a few bunched stalks of lavender, in the center, and surround it with sprigs of other herbs in groups of three. Surround this mixture — just about 3 to 4 inches in circumference — with green leaves and then secure the whole thing with a rubber band. Cover the stems with a paper doily or, better yet, a lovely handkerchief. Wrap the stems with cotton soaked in water first and then with alumninum foil.

Miniature Lavender Wreath Pick three handfuls of lavender stems approximately 8 inches long when the blossoms first start to flower, and plan to work on the project immediately, while the plant material is still fresh and pliable. Lay the stems in a line, overlapping each by 1 inch. Beginning at one end, tightly wrap nylon fishing line around the lavender. When you come to the end, form the piece into a circle by overlapping the beginning and the end by 2 inches. Continue wrapping the line to fasten the ends securely together. Next, attach loops and streamers of narrow, satin picot ribbon at the bottom. Attach a bow and hanger fashioned from wider, satin picot ribbon at the top. Add flowers for decoration, if desired. The fragrance is wonderful, especially when a breeze drifts through!

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LAVENDER-SCENTED CANDLE Scented candles are expensive to buy but not that difficult to make. Lavender makes a delightful scented candle and is just one more way to enjoy this fragrance in your home. 2 2 2

pounds paraffin wax colored crayons or a colorant for wax (optional) cups lavender blossoms, or 4 cups fresh flowers Candle molds (old cans work well) Petroleum jelly Candle wicking

Break up the wax into small pieces and melt in a bowl over a saucepan of hot water. Keep heat very low and watch carefully; paraffin is extremely flammable. Stir in coloring, if using. Remove from heat and then add the lavender. Coat the molds with petroleum jelly, and drop a length of wick into each mold, so that it touches the botton. Hold the other end around a pencil resting across the mold’s rim to keep the wick centered as you pour in the hot wax. When the wax cools to a gel, pour it into the molds. Allow the candles to set overnight.

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Other Storey Titles You Will Enjoy Growing 101 Herbs That Heal, by Tammi Hartung. A complete sourcebook on cultivating and caring for 101 versatile and useful herbs. 256 pages. Paper. ISBN 978-1-58017-215-8. Growing & Using Herbs Successfully, by Betty E. M. Jacobs. A classic illustrated guide that shows how to grow, harvest, store, and sell 64 of the most popular herbs. 240 pages. Paper. ISBN 978-0-88266-249-7. Growing Your Herb Business, by Bertha Reppert. Practical advice to transform your herbal hobby into an herb business. 192 pages. Paper. ISBN 978-0-88266-612-9. The Herb Gardener, by Susan McClure. Herb gardening basics for every season, indoors and out. 240 pages. Paper. ISBN 978-0-88266-873-4. Herbal Vinegar, by Maggie Oster. Dozens of recipes for vinegars that put herbs, spices, vegetables, and flowers to flavorful use. 176 pages. Paper. ISBN 978-0-88266-843-7. Rosemary Gladstar’s Herbal Recipes for Vibrant Health, by Rosemary Gladstar. A practical compendium of herbal lore and know-how for wellness, longevity, and boundless energy. 408 pages. Paper. ISBN 978-1-60342-078-5. These and other books from Storey Publishing are available wherever quality books are sold or by calling 1-800-441-5700. Visit us at www.storey.com.

The mission of Storey Publishing is to serve our customers by publishing practical information that encourages personal independence in harmony with the environment. Editing and text production by Heather Clemow Cover illustration and page 2 by Charles Joslin Cover design by Carol J. Jessop (Black Trout Design) Illustrations on page 10 and 12 by Judy Eliason Illustrations on page 13, 26, and 27 by Alison Kolesar Illustration on page 30 by Brigita Fuhrmann © 1996 by Storey Publishing, LLC All rights reserved. No part of this bulletin may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote brief passages or reproduce illustrations in a review with appropriate credits; nor may any part of this bulletin be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or other without written permission from the publisher. The information in this bulletin is true and complete to the best of our knowledge. All recommendations are made without guarantee on the part of the author or Storey Publishing. The author and publisher disclaim any liability in connection with the use of this information. For additional information please contact Storey Publishing, 210 MASS MoCA Way, North Adams, MA 01247. Storey books and bulletins are available for special premium and promotional uses and for customized editions. For further information, please call 1-800-793-9396.

Printed in the United States by Excelsior Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Barrett, Patti, 1949- Growing and using lavender / Patti Barrett. p. cm ISBN 978-0-88266-475-0 (alk. paper) 1. Lavenders. 2. Lavenders—Utilization. I. Title. II. Series 635’.7—dc20

96-2877 CIP

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