GO! Scrapping With AccuQuilt : GO! and GO! BABY Friendly 9781596356771, 9781596356740

Citation preview

Quilting

GO! SCRAPPING ®

With AccuQuilt GO! and GO! BABY Friendly ®

®

1 0+ Creat

iv Design e s

141359

GO! SCRAPPING ®

With AccuQuilt GO! and GO! BABY Friendly ®

®

Edited by Carolyn S. Vagts

10+

Creativ Design e s

Table of Contents 11 Starstruck Throw 16 How Does Your Garden Grow? 20 Sunny Sue Baby Quilt 25 Woolly Bits 28 Stained Glass Tote 34 Crazy Cores 38 Green Means GO! 43 Confetti Lap Quilt 47 Alphabet Soup

Woolly Bits, page 25

50 A Thimbleful 54 Cupcake Tower

General Instructions, 4 Quilting Basics, 58 Metric Conversion Charts, 61 Photo Index, 62 Special Thanks, 64

Alphabet Soup, page 47

Introduction One very important consideration for quilters today is the use of scraps. Scraps are the by-product of a creative mind, and because quilters are creative, they can’t toss out scraps. The AccuQuilt fabric-cutting systems will turn your scraps into viable new options. Take all the fabulous fabric pieces you’ve been saving and turn them into quilting treasures. This book will give you ideas and patterns perfect for your scraps. Have you ever considered double cutting? It’s a great way to stretch your scraps, and at the same time, discover new uses for them, one piece at a time. There’s something for every type of quilter, whether you’re into traditional patterns or lean more toward contemporary style. Skill levels range from beginner to intermediate, and from fast and easy to projects with a bit more challenge. With your scraps and an AccuQuilt fabric-cutting system, this book will take you on a creative journey that will make you glad you chose it. Think of all the fabulous quilted projects you have in your scraps just waiting for you to give them a home. Enjoy!

Starstruck Throw, page 11

Sunny Sue Baby Quilt, page 20

General Instructions These general instructions are intended as guidelines for the cutting and construction techniques used in all of the quilt patterns in this book. Refer to these general instructions or the manual that came with your cutter for guidance on using your machine. Most projects in GO! Scrapping are made with a selection of shapes that can be used on both the AccuQuilt GO!® and GO! Baby™ fabric-cutting systems. Both systems feature precise, quick cutting with safety. The GO! Baby is compatible with more than 60 percent of the GO! dies. The AccuQuilt die shapes used in this book are listed in the Fabric Reference Chart on page 8. Check individual pattern materials lists for the specific die used in each pattern and whether that die is compatible with the AccuQuilt GO! and/or GO! Baby. For even more information on the dies, go to www. accuquilt.com and enter the individual die number. Don’t worry if you don’t own a strip cutter; instead, cut the number of strips needed with a rotary cutter and cutting mat. Let’s get started!

Tip Look for handy cutting and construction tips throughout this book to help make your GO! quilts a success.

Using Your AccuQuilt GO! Cutter

To use an AccuQuilt Fabric Cutter, first precut appropriately sized strips to feed through the cutter. These strips can be layered or fan-folded to cut multiple shapes in one pass. The Fabric Reference Chart on page 8 shows precut strip sizes, fan-fold widths, number of shapes (cuts) that can be made from one fabric strip length and the approximate number of shapes that can be made from a single yard of fabric for the die shapes used in this book. The GO! and GO! Baby cutters can cut up to six layers of cotton quilting fabric at a time and four layers of fused fabric and fusible web. However, it is suggested that you begin with fewer fabric layers and build up with increased skill and experience to avoid jamming the machine. Even the same type of fabric is not

4

always the same thickness. The properties of quilting cotton can vary from brand to brand. For best results, use the cutter on a flat, hard, clean surface so the rubber feet can grip and hold the cutter in place. If the machine lifts while cutting, you might be cutting too many layers or the material is not suitable for cutting. Remove a layer and try again.

Tip Take care of your cutting mats. Store mats flat, out of direct sunlight and heat. Do not use a warped mat. Alternate mat sides when cutting to extend cutting life. Replace mats when cutting performance of dies is reduced or mat shows excessive wear.

Use a mat that matches the size of die board being used. Cut with die blades running under the roller at an angle, not parallel to the roller, if possible. Align fabric to the edge of the shape being cut, not the edge of the die board. Refer to your GO! user’s manual for other tips and care and maintenance of the cutter and dies. Be sure to read the entire user’s manual before using your cutter. Never carry the GO! cutter in the open position. GO! Scrapping With AccuQuilt

1 Place die on cutter, FOAM SIDE UP. Place

Tip Test-cut one shape before cutting many shapes to ensure fabric orientation is correct.

For questions about your AccuQuilt GO! Fabric Cutter, refer to your user’s manual or contact AccuQuilt Customer Service at (888) 258-7913 or online at www.accuquilt.com.

fabric on top of die. Note: To conserve fabric, cover only the shape you want to cut—not the entire die board. For asymmetrical shapes, place fabric pattern side up if you want the shape to look exactly like the shape on the die. Place fabric pattern side down if you want the shape to be a mirror image of the shape on the die. Place cutting mat on top of fabric.

1

Fabric Guide for GO! Fabric Type

Number of Layers*

Batik

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

Cotton

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

Denim

1

Felt

1

Flannel

Up to 2

Fleece

Up to 2

Ultrasuede

1

Wool

2

*Recommended Cutting Layers: The AccuQuilt GO!® Fabric Cutter cuts a wide variety of fabric in a varying number of layers. The number of layers you can cut depends on the type of material and the intricacy of the die. Always begin with fewer layers, and then build up. Often, more layers will improve cutting performance.

Basic Quiltmaking Techniques

2 Push die, fabric and mat firmly against roller.

Turn handle in direction you want the die to go.

2

Begin any quilting project by reading through all instructions. Like cooking, knowing what prep work needs to be done and gathering all the necessary “ingredients and tools” prior to starting will make your quilting experience better. There are several tools that every quilter needs in her or his sewing box (besides an AccuQuilt Go! Fabric Cutter and a sewing machine, of course!). Basics include: • Seam ripper • Pincushion • Hand-sewing needles and long, thin, sharp pins • Measuring tools • Fabric marking tools for dark and light fabrics

3 Remove mat, die-cut shape and excess fabric. Add new fabric and cutting mat on top of die. Repeat process from opposite side. There is no need to handle the die between cuts!

3

• Fabric scissors • Iron and ironing surface • Sewing machine needles sizes 75/11–80/12 • Ergonomic rotary cutter and at least an 18" self-healing cutting mat and a 6" x 24" see-through quilting ruler GO! Scrapping With AccuQuilt

5

Prewashing fabrics is a personal choice. Some quilting cottons will shrink more and contain more residual dye than others. If washing, launder all fabrics you will be using. Don’t mix washed and unwashed fabrics. Iron all fabrics before cutting. Straighten your fabric yardage before doing any cutting. This will help you keep your fabric on grain when cutting. For best results when using the AccuQuilt Go! Fabric Cutter, try to lay fabrics on the die with the straight of the grain along a shape edge. Your fabric will cut better, and the pieces will retain their shape while being sewn. GO! Scrapping projects are made with scraps from previous projects. Iron all scraps and determine a straight grain for good placement on the cutter and easier cutting. Stack 4–6 individual scraps all faceup or facedown on the die, or referring to pattern for special instructions. All cutting tips apply to scraps as well as yardage except that you will probably not be folding the fabric before cutting. All projects in this book assume piecing with a ¼"-wide seam, sewn right sides together. Good pressing at each stage of block construction makes for a beautiful project. Set stitches by pressing seams flat. Specific pressing instructions will be noted in each pattern.

Finishing Your Quilt

After piecing the quilt top as instructed, finish your project with these easy steps: 1. Mark quilting designs on the quilt top before

layering with the batting and backing by tracing with a washable marking tool, or by using perforated paper patterns and chalk, or by using purchased tearaway paper patterns. Some quilting designs—like meandering or stippling, outline or stitch-in-theditch—do not require marking.

2. After ironing the backing, place it right side down on a clean, flat surface. For large projects, tape the edges of the backing to the floor or table using lowadhesive painter’s tape, pulling it taut. 3. Place the batting on top of the backing, centering

on the backing and smoothing out wrinkles.

4. Fold the quilt top in half lengthwise, right sides together, and lay centered on the batting. Unfold the quilt top and smooth over the batting as shown in Figure 1. The batting and backing layers should be

3" to 8" larger than the quilt top, depending on the project’s overall size. Backing

Quilt Top

Batting

Figure 1

5. Baste the quilt layers together to prevent shifting during quilting. Hand-baste, safety-pin or spray-baste the quilt sandwich. To hand-baste, start in the center and move toward the outside edge using contrasting thread; likewise, start at the center and move outward if using safety pins. If using a spray-basting product, consult the manufacturer’s directions. 6. Quilt as desired by hand or machine; remove pins or basting thread if used. Trim excess backing and batting even with quilt top.

When quilting is completed, binding finishes and protects the quilt edges. The following instructions are for attaching a double-fold (also called a French fold) binding with mitered corners.

Binding Edges

1. Overlap binding strips at right angles, right sides

together. Sew across the diagonal and trim seam allowance to 1/4" as shown in Figure 2. Press seams open. Join strips to make a length equal to the circumference of the quilt plus at least 10".

Figure 2

2. Fold 1/4" to 1/2" of one end of the binding to the wrong side and press. Referring to Figure 3, fold the strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press again.

Figure 3

6

GO! Scrapping With AccuQuilt

3. Position the turned end of binding at least 12" from a corner. Then, matching raw edges of quilt top and binding, begin stitching binding to quilt top approximately 3" from the binding end, using a 1/4" seam allowance (Figure 4). Note: To have a filled binding that will wear well and look good, use a seam allowance that is approximately half the width of the folded binding. For example, for a binding cut 21/2" wide and folded to 11/4" wide, use a seam allowance 1/2" to 5/8".

5. Stop sewing binding a short distance from the beginning tail of the binding. Remove the quilt from sewing machine and trim the end tail of the binding so that it tucks inside the beginning tail of the binding at least 2" (Figure 7). Resume stitching, sewing the binding tails to the quilt top, again referring to Figure 6.

Stop 1/4"

3"

Figure 4

Figure 7

4. Sew binding to within 1/4" (or your seam allowance) of the first corner; remove quilt from machine and trim threads. Fold the binding up at a 45-degree angle to the seam (Figure 5) and back down even with the quilt edges, forming a pleat at the corner (Figure 6). Resume stitching from corner through the pleat, and stitching binding to the quilt top, sewing remaining corners as above.

Figure 5

GO! Scrapping With AccuQuilt

6. Turning binding to quilt back, pull the binding over the seam line; stitch in place by hand or machine. Stitch a few stitches by hand in corners to close miters. ❖

Figure Figure66

7

Fabric Reference Chart Use this chart to determine the minimum fabric requirements needed to cut each GO!® fabric-cutting die shape listed.

Die Name (Item #)

Shape on Die

Layers of Precut Strip Cotton Size (width Fabric* of fabric)

Fan-Fold Size

Minimum Shapes Cuts Per Yielded Per Precut 40" UsableStrip Width Yard Fabric

Helpful Hints

Geometric Shapes GO! Square—61/2" (6" Finished) (55000)

Square

Up to 6

71/2"

71/2"

5

20

1 on die; Cut up to 6 squares at a time.

GO! Square—31/2" (3" finished) (55006)

Squares

Up to 6

8"

41/2"

16

72 or more

2 on die; Cut up to 12 squares at a time.

GO! Half Square— 3" Finished Triangle (55009)

Half-Square Triangles

Up to 6

91/2"

41/2"

32 or more

128

4 on die; Cut up to 24 half squares at a time. For easy half-square triangles, layer fabrics right sides together on die and cut. Pick up one pair of triangles and sew.

GO! Hexagon—1", 11/2", 21/2" Sides (3/4", 11/4", 21/4" Finished) (Hexagon—2", 3", 5") (55011)

Hexagon— 1" sides

Up to 6; up to 4 pre-fused

21/2"

23/4"

14

196

1 on die; Cut up to 6 hexagons at a time.

Hexagon— 11/2" sides

Up to 6; up to 4 pre-fused

31/2"

33/4"

10

100

1 on die; Cut up to 6 hexagons at a time.

Hexagon— 21/2" sides

Up to 6; up to 4 pre-fused

51/2"

53/4"

6

36

1 on die; Cut up to 6 hexagons at a time.

GO! Quarter Square—6" Quarter Square Finished Triangle Triangles (Triangle—47/8") (55002)

Up to 6

41/2"

7

56

2 on die; Cut up to 12 quarter squares at a time. Open fabric strip out flat, layer fabric if desired, cut one set; continue to move strip over to cut five more triangles across width of fabric.

GO! Rectangle—31/2" W x 61/2" H (55005)

Rectangles

Up to 6

71/2"

41/2"

8

32 or more

1 on die; Cut up to 6 rectangles at a time.

GO! Square—21/2" (2" Finished) (55018)

Squares

Up to 6

31/2"

31/2"

11

110

1 on die; Cut up to 6 squares at a time. Included on GO! Value Die (55018)

GO! Square—21/2" (2" Finished) Multiples (55059)

Squares

Up to 6

81/2"

81/2"

42

168 or more

9 on die; Cut up to 54 squares at a time.

GO! Rectangle—2" x 31/2" (11/2" x 3" Finished) (55158)

Rectangles

Up to 6

4"

41/2"

16

144

2 on die; Cut up to 12 rectangles at a time.

*Recommended layers of fabric are based on 100 percent cotton fabric. Number of layers of fabric varies by fabric type and thickness. Always begin with fewer layers and build up.

8

GO! Scrapping With AccuQuilt

Die Name (Item #)

Shape on Die

Layers of Precut Strip Cotton Size (width Fabric* of fabric)

Fan-Fold Size

Minimum Shapes Cuts Per Yielded Per Precut 40" UsableStrip Width Yard Fabric

Helpful Hints

Strip Cutter GO! Strip Cutter—11/2" (1" Finished) 5 strips (55024)

Strips

Up to 6

81/2" (for 5 strips), 251/2" (for 15 strips)

81/2"

5 per 81/2"

21

5 on die; Cut up to 15 strips at a time. Position fabric on the crosswise grain so folded edge goes through cutter first.

GO! Strip Cutter—2" (11/2" Finished) 4 strips (55025)

Strips

Up to 6

9" (for 4 strips), 27" (for 12 strips)

9"

4 per 9"

16

4 on die; Cut up to 12 strips at a time. Position fabric on the crosswise grain so folded edge goes through cutter first.

GO! Strip Cutter—21/2" (2" Finished) 3 strips (55017)

Strips

Up to 6

81/2" (for 3 strips), 251/2" (for 9 strips)

81/2"

3 per 81/2"

12

3 on die; Cut up to 9 strips at a time. Position fabric on die on the crosswise grain so folded edge goes through cutter first.

GO! Strip Cutter—3" (21/2" Finished) 3 strips (55084)

Strips

Up to 6

7" (for 2 strips), 21" (for 6 strips)

7"

2 per 7"

10

3 on die; Cut up to 9 strips at a time. Position fabric on die on the crosswise grain so folded edge goes through cutter first.

Tumblers

Up to 6

71/2"

7

28

Start at selvage end to cut one tumbler shape, rotate die, align cut angle of fabric with angle of blades. Continue to cut tumblers in this manner across the width of the fabric.

Apple Core

Up to 6

8"

6

24 or more

61/4" finished size.

Apply fusible web backing prior to cutting. Place on die with right side of fabric down and cut. Place fabric on die right sides together to cut pairs.

Classic Shapes GO! Tumbler—61/2" (6" Finished) (55020)

GO! Apple Core (55036) Appliqué Shapes GO! Carefree Alphabet Set (2-Die Set) (55092)

GO! Circle—2", 3", 5" (55012)

61/2"

(Apply fusible web product to wrong sides of fabric, following manufacturer’s instructions, before cutting for easy appliqué.) Set of Letters

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

10"

10"

1 set

3 or more sets

Individual Letters

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

4"

4"

10 letters

90 or more letters

2" circle

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

3"

3"

13

156

3" circle

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

4"

4"

10

90

5" circle

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

6"

6"

6

36

Apply fusible web backing prior to cutting. Place on die with right side of fabric down and cut. Place fabric on die right sides together to cut pairs.

*Recommended layers of fabric are based on 100 percent cotton fabric. Number of layers of fabric varies by fabric type and thickness. Always begin with fewer layers and build up.

GO! Scrapping With AccuQuilt

9

Layers of Precut Strip Cotton Size (width Fabric* of fabric)

Fan-Fold Size

Minimum Shapes Cuts Per Yielded Per Precut 40" UsableStrip Width Yard Fabric

Helpful Hints

Die Name (Item #)

Shape on Die

GO! Cupcake (55097)

Cupcake Top— Round

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

31/2"

51/2"

7

70

Cupcake Top— Point

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

3"

5"

8

96

Cupcake Bottom

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

5"

41/2"

9

63

GO! Fun Flower (55334)

Flower

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

5"

5"

8

56

Apply fusible web backing prior to cutting. Place on die with right side of fabric down and cut. Place fabric on die right sides together to cut pairs.

GO! Round Flower (55007)

Flower

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

41/4"

41/4"

9

72

Star

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

3"

3"

13

156

Apply fusible web backing prior to cutting. Place on die with right side of fabric down and cut. Place fabric on die right sides together to cut pairs.

Stem

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

7"

11/4"

32 or more

160 or more

Leaf

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

4"

2"

20

180

1" Circle

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

2"

2"

20

360

5/8" Circle

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

11/2"

11/2"

26

624

Bonnet, Sleeve and Shoe

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

51/2"

51/2"

7

42

Dress

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

6"

41/2"

8

48

Hand

Up to 6; up to 4 prefused

Use scraps

GO! Sunbonnet Sue (55061)

Apply fusible web backing prior to cutting. Place on die with right side of fabric down and cut. Place fabric on die right sides together to cut pairs.

Apply fusible web backing prior to cutting. Place on die with right side of fabric down and cut. Place fabric on die right sides together to cut pairs.

*Recommended layers of fabric are based on 100 percent cotton fabric. Number of layers of fabric varies by fabric type and thickness. Always begin with fewer layers and build up.

10

GO! Scrapping With AccuQuilt

Starstruck Throw Design by Chris Malone Quilted by Jean McDaniel

This design allows you to color-coordinate each block for an overall controlled scrappy look. Easy piecing and fusible appliqué make this a fun project for any quilter. Specifications

Skill Level: Confident Beginner Quilt Size: 47" x 59" Block Size: 12" x 12" finished Number of Blocks: 12

C

B D

Materials

• Assorted scrap squares (31/4"–41/4" square) 9 prints each in varying values of 12 colors: red pink magenta purple blue turquoise green yellow-green yellow gold orange red-orange • 1/2 yard total assorted scrap strips (14"–20" long) • 1/2 yard of coordinating multicolor plaid • 31/3 yards white tonal • Backing to size • Batting to size • Thread • AccuQuilt GO! Fabric Cutter • AccuQuilt GO! Dies: 61/2" square (55000)* 31/2" square (55006) 47/8" triangle (55002) 3" finished triangle (55009) 21/2" square (55018) Circle (55012) • 1 yard (15" wide) fusible web • Basic sewing tools and supplies *Die not compatible with GO! Baby system.

GO! Scrapping With AccuQuilt

Star Block 12" x 12" Finished Block Make 12

Die-Cutting Instructions

Notes: Press all scraps flat. To avoid piecing the outer border, first cut the border strips lengthwise from white tonal referring to Additional Cutting Instructions.

From assorted scrap squares: • Select 41/4" squares, 8 prints in each color.

3. Sew a B square to opposite ends of a flying geese unit (Figure 2); press seams toward B. Repeat to make top and bottom block rows. B

Following fabric cutter instructions, die-cut 8 (3") finished triangles from each color family. Die-cut a total of 96 D triangles. • Select 31/4" squares, from 9 prints in each color. Following fabric cutter instructions, die-cut 9 (21/2") finished triangles from each color family. Die-cut a total of 108 E squares.

A

Figure 2

From white tonal: • Cut 3 (71/2" x 31") strips.

Fan-fold each strip to 71/2" wide; die-cut 12 (61/2") A squares. • Cut 4 (8" x 31") strips. Fan-fold each strip to 41/2" wide; die-cut 48 (31/2") B squares. • Cut 12 (41/2" x 22") strips. Fold each strip 11" wide; die-cut 48 (47/8") C triangles.

Additional Cutting Instructions

4. Sew a flying geese unit to opposite sides of A, referring again to Figure 2 to make a block center row; press seams toward A. 5. Arrange block rows and stitch together as shown in Figure 2. Press seams toward the center row. 6. To make an appliquéd circle for the center of the Star block, arrange and sew the nine E squares into three rows of three squares each (Figure 3). Press all seams open.

From plaid:

• Cut 6 (2" by fabric width) strips. Subcut 4 (2" x 241/2") F and 2 (2" x 391/2") G strips.

E

From assorted scrap strips: • Cut a variety of 21/4"-wide x 14"–20" strips; a total of 226" is needed for binding.

From white tonal: • Cut 4 (41/2" by fabric length) strips. Subcut 2 each 41/2" x 511/2" H strips and 41/2" x 471/2" I strips for outer borders.

Figure 3

Completing the Star Blocks

1. From same color family, choose 8 D triangles and

nine E squares; select one A square and four each B squares and C triangles.

2. Join one D triangle to one C triangle (Figure 1); press seam toward D. Join a second D triangle to the opposite side of the C triangle to make one flying geese unit referring again to Figure 1. Repeat to make a total of four flying geese units. Make 4 D D

C

C

Figure 1

12

7. Cut a 6" fusible web square and apply it to the wrong side of the patchwork, leaving an equal margin on each side. Do not remove paper backing before cutting. Die-cut using the 5" circle die and referring to General Instructions. 8. Remove paper backing and center the patchwork circle, right side up, on the A square of the Star block referring to the block diagram; fuse in place. 9. Machine blanket-stitch (or satin-stitch) around the circle with matching thread. 10. Repeat steps 1–9 with each of the color families

to make 12 Star blocks.

GO! Scrapping With AccuQuilt

Completing the Quilt

1. Referring to the Assembly Diagram, arrange the

12 blocks into four rows of three blocks each.

6. Sew H strips to opposite sides and I strips to the top and bottom of the quilt top referring to the Assembly Diagram; press seams toward F and G.

2. Sew the blocks together in rows as arranged; press seams open.

7. Layer and quilt as desired referring to Finishing Your Quilt on page 6 of the General Instructions.

3. Sew the rows together; press seams open.

8. Join the 21/4" x 14"–20" assorted scrap strips together on short ends to make binding; press seams open. Bind quilt referring to Binding Edges on page 6 in General Instructions. ❖

4. Sew two of the F strips together on short ends; press seam open. Repeat with remaining two F strips to make the side borders. 5. Sew F strips to opposite long sides and G strips to the top and bottom of the pieced center referring to the Assembly Diagram; press seams toward F and G.

I G

H

F

Starstruck Throw Assembly Diagram Assembly Diagram 47" x 59"

Starstruck Throw Alternate Size Placement Diagram 59" x 71" Make 20 blocks to make 5 rows of 4 blocks each. Use the samewidth border strips as the smaller-size quilt. Remember to increase fabric yardages to make this larger-size quilt.

14

GO! Scrapping With AccuQuilt

GO! Scrapping With AccuQuilt

15

How Does Your Garden Grow? Designed & Quilted by Chris Malone

Create a fresh, new look by adding this bed runner and pillowcase set to your bed. Easy piecing and fusible appliqué make these a possible weekend project that you can make from scrap fabrics. Bed Runner

Additional Cutting Instructions

Specifications

From tan check: • Cut 5 (21/4" by fabric width) strips for binding.

Skill: Confident Beginner Bed Runner Size: 78" x 15"

Materials • • • • • • • • • • •

11 (5") square assorted red and pink scraps 1/4 yard green dot 1/2 yard tan check 21/8 yards total assorted ivory and tan prints Backing to size Batting to size Thread 11 (5/8"-diameter) ivory buttons 7/8 yard 15"-wide paper-backed fusible web AccuQuilt GO! Fabric Cutter AccuQuilt GO! dies: 31/2" square (55006) Fun Flower (55334) • Basic sewing tools and supplies

Die-Cutting Instructions From assorted red and pink scraps:

From green dot: • Draw 11 (1/2"-wide) strips on the paper side of the

fusible web. Mark the following lengths on each strip: 3 (10") long , 3 (9") long, 2 (71/2") long and 3 (6") long. Follow manufacturer’s directions to apply the fusible web to the wrong side of fabric; cut out on lines for stems. Set aside.

Completing the Bed Runner

1. Arrange the 130 (31/2") squares into five rows of 26

squares each referring to the Placement Diagram. Sew the squares in each row together; press seams open.

2. Sew the rows together; press seams open. 3. Remove the paper backing from the green dot stems. Position a 10" stem over the center vertical seam with one short end matching the edge of the patchwork (Figure 1); fuse in place following manufacturer’s instructions.

• Cut out and apply 11 (5") squares of fusible web to the wrong side of each of the red and pink squares. Place squares individually onto die right side up and die-cut 11 flowers.

From assorted ivory & tan prints:

• Cut 8 (8" by fabric width) strips and fan-fold 41/2" wide. Die-cut 128 (31/2") squares. Cut another 2 squares from smaller scraps for a total of 130 squares. Note: If your scraps are not too long, stack up to 6 layers of smaller pieces and die-cut.

16

Figure 1

GO! Scrapping With AccuQuilt

4. Repeat step 3 with the remaining stems, centering them over a seam every two blocks referring to the Placement Diagram. Use the following placement sequence, left to right: 9", 6", 10", 71/2", 9", 10", 6", 9", 6", 10" and 71/2". Note: Vary the stem lengths slightly by trimming 1/4"–3/4" off several stems to get a more natural look.

Pillowcase (set of 2)

5. Remove the paper backing from each of the 11

• • • • • • • • • •

flowers and arrange one at the top of each stem (Figure 2); fuse in place following manufacturer’s instructions.

Specifications

Skill: Confident Beginner Pillowcase Size: 201/2" x 31" (fits standard bed pillow)

Materials

2 (5") square scraps red prints 1/8 yard green dot 3/4 yard tan check 13/4 yards light tan print Thread 5" x 10" piece fusible web 2 (5/8"-diameter) ivory buttons AccuQuilt GO! Fabric Cutter AccuQuilt GO! die: Fun Flower (55334) Basic sewing tools and supplies

Die-Cutting Instructions Figure 2

6. Machine blanket-stitch with matching threads

around each appliqué shape.

7. Layer, quilt and bind referring to Finishing Your Quilt and Binding Edges on page 6 in General Instructions. 8. Sew an ivory button to the center of each flower.

From red print scraps: • Cut out and apply 2 (5") squares of fusible web to the wrong side of each of the red print squares. Place squares individually onto die right side up and die-cut 2 flowers. .

Additional Cutting Instructions From green dot:

• Cut 2 (1" x 42") strips.

From tan check: • Cut 2 (23/4" x 42") strips. • Cut 2 (73/4" x 42") width strips. How Does Your Garden Grow? Bed Runner Placement Diagram 78" x 15"

18

From light tan print:

• Cut 2 (27" x 42") rectangles for pillowcase bodies.

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Completing the Pillowcases

1. To make a cuff, sew a green dot strip between the

23/4" x 42" and 73/4" x 42" tan check strips. Press seams toward green strip (Figure 3).

7. Fuse flower in place following manufacturer’s instructions. Machine blanket-stitch around the flower with matching thread. 8. To encase all the raw edges, fold the pillowcase in half, wrong sides together, and stitch a 1/4" seam down the side and across the back (Figure 7).

Figure 3

2. Position and pin a light tan print rectangle pillow case body right sides together with the completed cuff, matching the body 42" edge to the 23/4" x 42" tan check edge of the cuff (Figure 4). Figure 7

42"

Figure 4

3. Roll up the body from the unpinned edge to

halfway into the cuff referring again to Figure 4.

9. Turn the pillowcase wrong side out and press seams flat. Stitch a 3/8" seam allowance down the side and across the back. Turn right side out and press seams flat. 10. Sew a button to the center of the flower. 11. Repeat steps 1–10 for second pillowcase. ❖

4. Bring the loose edge of the cuff over and around the rolled body matching the pinned edges. Pin and sew the three raw edges together (Figure 5).

Figure 5

5. Pull the rolled-up pillowcase body all the way out of the cuff, causing the cuff to turn right side out. Press the seam flat on both sides. 6. Fold the pillowcase in half with seams matching and press to mark the center. Position a flower appliqué on the right side of the pillow cuff centered on the green strip with flower center 101/2" from the raw edge (Figure 6). 10 1/2"

Figure 6

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How Does Your Garden Grow? Pillowcase Placement Diagram 201/2" x 31"

Sunny Sue Baby Quilt Designed & Quilted by Julie Weaver

Make a nostalgic baby quilt that will surely please a new mother. The Sunbonnet Sue die makes cutting a breeze and so accurate. This also has a size option. Specifications

Skill Level: Confident Beginner Quilt Size: 40" x 46" Block Size: 8" x 10" finished Number of Blocks: 9

Materials

• Assorted large scraps white/cream prints • Assorted large and small scraps pink, green, black and flesh 1930s reproduction prints • 1/4 yard white/cream print • 1/2 yard pink 1930s reproduction print • 1 yard green 1930s reproduction print • Backing to size • Batting to size • Thread • 11/2 yards paper-backed fusible web • Accuquilt GO! Fabric Cutter • Accuquilt GO! Dies: 21/2" strip cutter (55017) 11/2" strip cutter (55024) 21/2" square (55059) Sunbonnet Sue (55061) • Basic sewing tools and supplies

Die-Cutting Instructions From white/cream print scraps: • Cut 18 (21/2" x 10") rectangles.

Layer six rectangles on die and die-cut a total of 18 (11/2" x 10") B strips using the 11/2" strip cutter. • Cut 36 (21/2" x 10") rectangles. Layer six rectangles on die and die-cut a total of 36 (21/2" x 10") A rectangles using the 21/2" strip cutter.

From pink 1930s reproduction print scraps: • Cut 5 (41/2" x 6") rectangles pink scraps. Apply same

size paper-backed fusible web to wrong side of scraps following manufacturer’s instructions. Position fused rectangles fabric side down over Sunbonnet Sue dress area of die and die-cut 5 reversed pink dresses.

20

Green Sunbonnet Sue 8" x 10" Finished Block Make 4

Pink Sunbonnet Sue 8" x 10" Finished Block Make 5

• Cut 5 (5") squares pink scraps. Apply same size paperbacked fusible web to wrong side of scraps following manufacturer’s instructions. Position fused squares fabric side down over Sunbonnet Sue hat and sleeve area of die and die-cut 5 reversed pink hats and sleeves.

From green 1930s reproduction print scraps: • Cut 4 (41/2" x 6") rectangles green scraps. Apply same

size paper-backed fusible web to wrong side of rectangles following manufacturer’s instructions. Position fused rectangles fabric side up over Sunbonnet Sue dress area of die and die-cut 4 green dresses. • Cut 4 (5") squares green scraps. Apply same size paperbacked fusible web to wrong side of scraps following manufacturer’s instructions. Position fused squares fabric side up over Sunbonnet Sue hat and sleeve area of die and die-cut 4 green hats and sleeves.

From remaining pink & green 1930s reproduction print scraps: • Choose 82 scraps at least 31/2" square in a variety of pink and green prints. Layer six squares on die and die-cut a total of 82 (21/2") J squares using the 21/2" square die.

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22

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From black 1930s reproduction print scraps:

2. Refer to block drawings to arrange Sunbonnet Sue appliqué pieces as shown, placing the appliqué between the B strips. Note: Green Sunbonnet Sue faces to the right and pink Sunbonnet Sue faces to the left.

• Cut 9 (2" x 3") rectangles. Apply same size paperbacked fusible web to wrong side of rectangles following manufacturer’s instructions. Position fused rectangles fabric side down over Sunbonnet Sue shoe area of die and die-cut 5 reversed shoes for red Sunbonnet Sue. Position fused rectangles fabric side up over Sunbonnet Sue shoe area of die and die-cut 4 shoes for green Sunbonnet Sue.

3. Remove paper backing and fuse appliqué pieces in place following manufacturer’s instructions. Hand- or machine blanket-stitch around each appliqué piece using black thread. 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 to make five pink and four green Sunbonnet Sue blocks. Set blocks aside.

From flesh 1930s reproduction print scraps:

Completing the Quilt

• Choose 9 scraps at least 2" square. Apply same size paper-backed fusible web to wrong side of squares following manufacturer’s instructions. Position fused squares fabric side up over Sunbonnet Sue hand area of die and die-cut 9 hands.

From white/cream print yardage:

1. Stitch one each pink and green C/D/E strip together

lengthwise to make one strip set. Repeat to make eight strip sets.

2. Subcut the strip sets into 12 each 21/2" x 101/2" C and 21/2" x 81/2" D sashing strips and 32 (21/2" x 11/2") E rectangles referring to Figure 2. C Cut 12

• Cut 1 (7" by fabric width) strip. Fan-fold 81/2" wide and die-cut 4 strips using the 11/2" strip cutter.

21/2"

From pink 1930s reproduction print yardage:

101/2" D Cut 12

• Cut 2 (7" by fabric width) strips. Fan-fold 81/2" wide and die-cut 8 C/D/E strips using the 11/2" strip cutter.

21/2" 8 /2" 1

From green 1930s reproduction print:

• Cut 3 (7" by fabric width) strips. Fan-fold 81/2" wide and die-cut 12 strips using the 11/2" strip cutter. Subcut 2 each 11/2" x 401/2" H and 11/2" x 361/2" I borders, from 4 of the strips. Set aside remaining strips for C/D/E strip sets.

E Cut 32 21/2" 1 /2" 1

Figure 2

3. Stitch two E rectangles together, with opposite fabrics matching, to make a cornerstone (Figure 3). Make a total of 16 (21/2") cornerstones.

Additional Cutting Instructions From remaining green 1930s reproduction print yardage: • Cut 5 (21/4" by fabric width) strips for binding.

Cornerstone Make 16

Completing the Blocks 1. To make one block

background, sew four A and two B strips together with B strips on the top and bottom (Figure 1); press seams in same direction. Trim background to 81/2" wide, making overall measurement 81/2" x 101/2" referring again to Figure 1. Repeat to make nine block backgrounds.

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81/2" B A

101/2"

Figure 3

Figure 1

23

4. Stitch four cornerstones and three D sashing strips together referring to Figure 4 for color orientation. Repeat to make four sashing rows.

8. Stitch H to opposite sides and I to top and bottom of quilt referring again to the Assembly Diagram; press seams toward borders.

Sashing Row Make 4

9. Stitch two sets of 21 J squares randomly together to make two pieced side borders; press seams in one direction. Stitch borders to opposite sides of quilt; press seams toward H.

D

Figure 4

5. Lay out blocks, C sashing strips and sashing rows referring to Figure 5. Note: When arranged, pink sashing should frame the pink Sunbonnet Sue blocks And green sashing should frame the green Sunbonnet Sue blocks. Stitch blocks between C sashing strips to make block rows as shown in Figure 5.

10. Stitch two sets of 20 J squares randomly together

to make two pieced top and bottom borders; press seams in one direction. Stitch borders to top and bottom of quilt; press seams toward I.

C

11. Layer, quilt as desired and bind referring to

Finishing Your Quilt and Binding Edges on page 6 in General Instructions. ❖

Figure 5

6. Referring again to Figure 5 for orientation, stitch the block and sashing rows alternately beginning with a sashing row to complete the quilt center. 7. Stitch F borders to opposite sides and G to top and bottom of quilt center referring to Assembly Diagram; press seams toward borders.

J I G

H

F

Sunny Sue Alternate Size Assembly Diagram 60" x 82"

Sunny Sue Assembly Diagram 40" x 46"

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Make 30 blocks and 36 sashing strips to make 6 block rows with 5 blocks and 6 sashing strips in each row. Make a total of 7 sashing rows. Use the same-width border strips as the smaller-size quilt for inner borders. Cut 134 (21/2") squares for the pieced borders. Remember to increase fabric yardages to make this larger-size quilt.

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Woolly Bits Designed & Quilted by Missy Shepler

Don’t limit your AccuQuilt cutters to cotton. A single layer of lightweight felted wool cuts beautifully. Make this cute, colorful scarf with bits and pieces from previous projects. Specifications

Skill Level: Intermediate Scarf Size: 71/2" x 65" (excluding fringe)

Materials

• Assorted colors and weaves lightweight felted wool scraps • 5/8 yard each 2 coordinating cotton flannels • Thread • 2 yards lightweight wash-away fabric stabilizer • AccuQuilt GO! Fabric Cutter • AccuQuilt GO! Die: Hexagon Set (55011) • Basic sewing tools and supplies

Die-Cutting Instructions From felted wool:

• Position individual scraps over the 2" hexagon area and die-cut a total of 144 hexagons.

Additional Cutting Instructions Note: Prewash coordinating cotton flannel.

From each coordinating cotton flannel: • Cut 2 (81/2" by fabric width) scarf strips. Trim selvages from ends of all 4 strips.

to machine-stitch the adjacent edges together (Figure 1). Take care not to stretch or distort the hexagon edges. Repeat to join all 36 hexagons in the row together, forming one long strip of hexagons.

Piecing Hexagons

1. Arrange the hexagons in four rows of 36 hexagons

each. Referring to the Placement Diagram and project photo, stagger the rows.

2. Cut an 8" x 65" strip of lightweight, wash-away fabric stabilizer. Fold in half lengthwise to lightly mark a center placement line. Note: Stitching the hexagons to the stabilizer will make it easier not to stretch or distort the hexagons during construction. 3. Align the points of two hexagons along the center placement line of the stabilizer matching adjacent edges. Use a wide zigzag or other decorative stitch

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Figure 1

4. Repeat step 3 to stitch a second row of hexagons as arranged in step 1 on the opposite side of the placement line and aligned with the adjacent row edges. Repeat to make a four-row hexagon unit with aligned but unstitched edges in between rows.

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Completing the Scarf

1. Place two matching flannel strips right sides

together and sew along one short edge, using a 1/2" seam allowance. Repeat with the remaining two matching strips. Press the seams open.

2. Position wrong side of the hexagon unit centered on right side of one flannel strip 61/2" or desired fringe length from one short end (Figure 2). Trim flannel strip length if necessary to extend 61/2" or desired fringe length beyond opposite end of hexagon strip.

6. Topstitch the outer perimeter of the hexagon unit through all layers, sewing about 1/8" from the hexagon edges, gently remove fabric stabilizer following manufacturer’s instructions (Figure 4). Stitch again, about 1/4" from the first line of stitching, echoing the hexagon outline on the flannel backing referring again to Figure 4. /4"

1

/8"

1

/4"

1

8 1/2"

61/2"

Figure 4 Figure 2

3. Use a wide zigzag or other decorative stitch to stitch along the unstitched row edges of the hexagon unit through all layers, pivoting as needed around the corners of the hexagon shapes. Do not stitch the outer perimeter of the hexagon unit.

7. Add a final topstitching along the long edges of the scarf, pivoting at the short ends to outline the hexagon edges referring to Figure 4. 8. Cut the scarf ends lengthwise into 1/2" strips for a chunky fringe (Figure 5).

4. Pin the flannel strips right sides together, offsetting the center seams to avoid bulk and matching the long raw edges. Trim short ends even. 5. Stitch a 1/2" seam allowance on both long raw edges, beginning and ending stitching 61/2" from the short ends (Figure 3). Turn right side out and press seam flat. 61/2"

61/2"

Figure 3

Figure 5

9. Create a “messy fringe” by removing the crosswise fibers in the fabric at the scarf ends. Note: This does require some patience and can be quite messy! Use a straight pin to help tease fiber ends away from the tightly woven edge; then gently pull the individual strands away. Leave the unwoven strands “loose,” or twist sections together for a more controlled look. ❖

Woolly Bits Placement Diagram 71/2" x 65" (excluding fringe)

26

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Stained Glass Tote Designed & Quilted by Sandra L. Hatch

If you love hexagons but don’t like to piece them, this is the project for you. Make this fabulous tote with fusible appliqué, machine stitching and no set-in seams. Specifications

From black-with-pink polka dots: • Cut 2 (51/2" by fabric width) strips. Subcut into 4 (51/2" x 191/2) pocket rectangles.

Materials

From pink-with-black polka dots:

• Skill Level: Intermediate • Tote Size: 15" x 15" x 5" (excluding handles) • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

56 (31/2") squares assorted polka dot scraps 1/2 yard white-with-black polka dots 1/2 yard black-with-pink polka dots 2/3 yard pink-with-black polka dots 1 yard black solid 3/4 yard fusible fleece Thread 1 (11/4") black button 1 (11/2") swivel-eyebolt snap 1 yard 18"-wide paper-backed fusible web 41/2" x 14" plastic canvas or stiff cardboard Accuquilt GO! Fabric Cutter Accuquilt GO! Die: Hexagons (55011) Basic sewing tools and supplies

Die-Cutting Instructions From scraps:

• Cut out and apply 56 (31/2") squares of paper-backed fusible web to the wrong side of each polka dot scrap. Place scraps individually, right side up, centered over the 3" hexagon die and die-cut 56 B hexagons. Do not remove paper; set aside.

Additional Cutting Instructions From white-with-black polka dots: • Cut 1 (41/4" by fabric width) strip. Subcut into 2 (41/4" x 21") C strips. • Cut 1 (51/4" by fabric width) strip. Subcut into 2 (51/4" x 21") D strips. • Cut 1 (11/2" x 7") loop strip.

28

• Cut 1 (17" by fabric width) strip. Subcut into 2 (191/2" x 17") lining rectangles. • Cut 1 (11/2" x 7") loop strip.

From black solid:

• Cut 1 (21" by fabric width) strip. Subcut into 2 (21" x 19") A rectangles. • Cut 1 (3" by fabric width) strip. Subcut into 2 (3" x 21") handle strips.

From fusible fleece:

• Cut 2 (21" x 19") rectangles. • Cut 2 (11/4" x 21") strips.

Completing the Appliquéd Front & Back Panels

1. Using light chalk pencil, measure and mark a line 5" from the bottom 21" edge and a second line 4" from the top 21" edge of one A rectangle as shown in Figure 1. Repeat on the second rectangle. 4"

A

5"

Figure 1

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30

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2. Remove paper backing from the hexagons. 3. Starting in the center, place one B hexagon on A

1/4" below the 4" top line of one A rectangle as shown in Figure 2.

11. Align one long edge of a C strip right sides

together along the top marked line of the hexagon panel as shown in Figure 4; stitch together using a 1/4" seam allowance.

/4"

1

C

B

B

Figure 4

Figure 2

4. Continue adding hexagons as desired in seven

columns of four hexagons each. Leave 1/4" between pieces, with the hexagon columns on each side of the center extending above and below the marked lines shown in Figure 3. The first and last column should be positioned about 11/4–11/2" from side edges, again referring to Figure 3.

12. Press the C strip away from the hexagon panel and over the black area; topstitch 1/4" from the seam. 13. Repeat steps 11 and 12 with the D strip on

the bottom marked line of the hexagon panel to complete the tote front.

14. Repeat steps 11–13 to complete the tote back.

Completing the Lining

1. Place two pocket rectangles right sides together

and stitch along each long edge. Repeat with second two pocket rectangles.

11/4"–11/2"

2. Turn the stitched pockets right side out and press edges flat. 3. Draw a line 51/2" from one 191/2" edge of a lining rectFigure 3

5. Trim hexagons extending above and below the marked lines even with the marked lines. 6. Fuse the hexagons in place following manufacturer’s instructions. 7. Repeat steps 1–6 to make a second hexagon panel.

angle as shown in Figure 5. Align one long edge of a stitched pocket along the line and pin in place.

4. Divide and mark the pocket into sections as shown in Figure 5 or as desired. Stitch on the marked lines and edgestitch the pocket bottom referring again to Figure 5. 51/2"

8. Fuse one 21" x 19" rectangle of fusible fleece to the

wrong side of each hexagon panel.

9. Using black thread, quilt in the black area between the hexagons. 10. Using black thread and a machine buttonhole

or blanket stitch, stitch around the edge of each hexagon.

Figure 5

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31

5. Repeat steps 1–4 to complete the second lining piece. 6. Place the two lining pieces right sides together, matching pocket edges, and stitch both sides and across the bottom edge, leaving a 5" opening on the bottom edge (Figure 6). Press seams flat.

4. Referring to Figure 8, fold each of the white-withblack polka dots and pink-with-black polka dots loop strips in half with wrong sides together along length and press. Open the strips and fold the edges to the center; press. Refold the strips in half and stitch close to the open edges to make the loop strips.

5"

Figure 6 Figure 8

7. To box bottom corners, fold corner, matching side

and bottom seams to form a point. Stitch across the corner 3" up from the point as shown in Figure 7. Trim seam allowance to 1/4" to make a boxed corner, again referring to Figure 7.

5. Fold the white-with-black dot loop strip to make a loop. Center and pin to the right side of the quilted bag back as shown in Figure 9; stitch a scant 1/4" seam back and forth to secure.

/4"

1

3"

Figure 7

8. Repeat step 7 on the opposite corner to complete the lining.

Completing the Tote

1. Trim the two quilted hexagon panels to 20" x 171/2".

Note: Trim panels to match so that seams will match when stitched.

2. Place the two panels right sides together, starting with a 3/8" seam at the top and tapering to a 1/4" seam allowance on sides and across the bottom. Stitch to complete the quilted bag. Note: The lining is a little smaller than the quilted bag to avoid bulk inside after stitching, adjusting the seam allowance helps the top edges match. 3. Box bottom corners referring to step 7 of Completing the Lining. Turn bag right side out.

Figure 9

6. Slide the pink-with-black dots loop strip through the enclosed end of the swivel-eyebolt snap and make a loop. Pin and stitch to the right side of the lining near a side seam for holding keys. 7. Fold and press 1/4" to the inside along one 21" side of each 3" x 21" handle strips. Center a 11/4" x 21" fusible fleece strip on each pressed strip. Fold the raw edge of the strip over the fleece strip and the pressed edge of the strip over the raw edge and press to make the handle strips (Figure 10).

Batting

Figure 10

32

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8. Stitch close to the center of the strips along the folded edge and then 1/4" from each side of the strips to complete the handles referring again to Figure 10. Trim each handle to 20" long, squaring up the ends.

10. Insert the quilted bag right sides together into

9. Pin and stitch the ends of one handle right sides together on the quilted bag front 43/4" from the side seams as shown in Figure 11. Repeat with the second handle on the quilted bag back.

11. Turn the tote right side out through the opening

43/4"

43/4"

the lining shell, matching side seams; stitch all around the top edge, backstitching over the handle and loop areas. in the lining, pulling handles and loops away from the seam. Press the lining opening closed and machinestitch close to the edges. Press lining to the inside of the tote and along top edge.

12. Topstitch 1/4" from the top edges of the tote. 13. Center and sew the 11/4" black button with the

edge of the button even with the C strip edge referring to the Placement Diagram to finish. ❖

Figure 11

Stained Glass Glass Tote Stained Tote " x"5" PlacementDiagram Diagram 15 x 5" Placement 15" "x x1515

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33

Crazy Cores Designed & Quilted by Missy Shepler

Make an apple-core crazy quilt by piecing fabric scraps together before die cutting. This is a perfect project to play with color placement and to use all the small pieces of fabric you’ve been saving. Specifications

Additional Cutting Instructions

Materials

From coordinating red fabric: • Cut 8 (21/4" by fabric width) binding strips. Note: If you prefer a curved, not straight, edge on your quilt, cut a total of at least 280" of bias strips for binding.

Skill Level: Advanced Quilt Size: 56" x 74" • • • • • • •

Assorted red print scraps 7/8 yard of coordinating red fabric Backing to size Batting to size AccuQuilt GO! Fabric Cutter AccuQuilt GO! Die: Apple Core (55036) Basic sewing tools and supplies

Completing the Quilt

1. Machine- or hand-stitch over the seam lines of the

pieced apple cores as desired. Note: This is a great opportunity to explore the specialty stitches on your machine.

Die-Cutting Instructions

Note: Make any combination of pieced and one-fabric apple cores for a total of 192. Instructions are given for the sample quilt, which has 62 pieced and 130 one-fabric apple cores.

From assorted red print scraps:

• Stitch 2–5 scraps right sides together with straight lines of stitching to make a rectangle larger than 8" x 61/2" (Figure 1). Trim seam allowances to 1/4"; press open or to one side. Trim rectangle to 8" x 61/2". Make 62 pieced rectangles. Position pieced rectangles on Apple Core die, avoiding placing seams directly on corner points or center notches. Die-cut 62 pieced apple core pieces. 8"

61/2"

2. Arrange apple cores into 16 rows of 12 apple cores each. Alternate the color placement and the orientation of every other piece referring to Figure 2. Note: Depending on your fabric choices, you may want to place apple cores according to color or value. The quilt shown loosely follows a diagonal light to dark value placement, with most of the pieced apple cores following the diagonal scheme.

Figure 2

3. With right sides together, and aligning raw edges and center notches, pin and stitch the first two apple cores in row 1 together along one curved edge (Figure 3). Clip the curve and press the seam open. Repeat to join the remaining row 1 and row 2 apple cores into pairs.

Figure 1

• Cut 8" by fabric width strips or 8" x 61/2" rectangles. Fan-fold strips 61/2" wide or stack 6 rectangles together and die-cut 130 apple core pieces.

34

Figure 3

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4. With right sides together, and aligning raw edges, center notches and seams, pin and stitch one row 1 pair to one row 2 pair of apple cores (Figure 4). Clip the curves; press the seams open referring to the arrows in Figure 4. Repeat to join the remaining row 1 and 2 pairs into 4-patch units.

10. For a straight-edge finish, align a clear acrylic

rotary ruler along the innermost curves at the outer edges of the top and bottom of the quilt (Figure 6a). Carefully trim the excess patch pieces, batting and backing along this line. Repeat on the quilt sides referring to Figure 6b. a.

Figure 4

b.

5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 to join the remaining rows

into 4-patch units.

6. With right sides together, and aligning raw edges, center notches and seams, pin and stitch two 4-patch units together along adjacent edges. Clip the curves; press the seam open. Repeat with a second set of 4-patch units (Figure 5). Join the two units together to make one 16-patch unit. 16-patch units Make 12

Figure 6

11. Bind referring to Binding Edges on page 6 in

General Instructions. Note: Use bias binding strips for a curved-edge finish. ❖

Row 1

Row 2

Row 3

Row 4

Figure 5

7. Repeat with the remaining 4-patch units to make 12 (16-patch) units. Join the 16-patch units together along adjacent edges to complete the quilt top. 8. Layer and quilt as desired referring to Finishing Your Quilt on page 6 in General Instructions. 9. For a curved-edge outer edge finish, stay-stitch 1/8" from the curved outer edge perimeter of the quilt. Trim the excess batting and backing even with the quilt top.

36

Crazy Cores Placement Diagram 56" x 74"

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37

Green Means GO! Design by Gina Gempesaw Quilted by Carole Whaling

Use your scraps, a white background and add a larger border for this fun bubble appliqué. This quilt also has possibilities for size options. Specifications

Skill Level: Confident Beginner Quilt Size: 561/2" x 67" Block Size: 8" x 8" finished Number of Blocks: 20

A

A

Materials • • • • • • • •

Assorted green print scraps 5/8 yard green tonal 33/4 yards white tonal Backing to size Batting to size Thread 1 yard paper-backed fusible web 1 yard tear-away or wash-away fabric stabilizer (optional) • AccuQuilt GO! Fabric Cutter • AccuQuilt GO! Dies: 21/2" square (55059)* 31/2" square (55006) 3" strip cutter (55084)* Circle—2", 3", 5" (55012) • Basic sewing tools and supplies *Die not compatible with GO! Baby system.

Die-Cutting Instructions From assorted green print scraps: • Die-cut 160 A squares using 21/2" square die. Trim large scraps to 81/2" square to cut 9 (21/2") squares per scrap or position 31/2" square scraps individually

over squares on die to cut A squares. • Die-cut 4 (5"), 6 (3") and 10 (2") circles using the Circle die. Cut scraps 1" larger than the circle to be cut and apply same-size paper-backed fusible web to wrong side of scrap. Position fused scraps fabric side up, individually, over circle size required on die to cut circles.

38

16-Patch Block 8" x 8" Finished Block Make 20

From white tonal: • Cut 4 (81/2" by fabric width) strips; fan-fold 81/2" wide. Die-cut 160 A squares using 21/2" square die. • Cut 1 (8" by fabric width) strip; fan-fold 41/2" wide. Die-cut 6 B squares using 31/2" square die.

• Cut 4 (7" by fabric width) strips; fan-fold 7" wide. Die-cut 8 (3" by fabric width) strips using the 3" strip cutter. Rotary subcut the strips into 31 (3" x 81/2") C sashing strips and 6 (3") D squares for cornerstones. • Set aside remaining white tonal for additional rotary cutting.

Additional Cutting Instructions From white tonal: • Cut 2 (9" x 501/2") E borders along length.

• Cut 2 (9" x 57") F borders along the length.

From green tonal: • Cut 7 (21/4" by fabric width) strips for binding.

Completing the Quilt

1. Referring to the block drawing, choose and arrange eight each green print scraps and white tonal A squares into four rows of four squares.

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Stitch together in rows pressing seams in opposite directions between rows. Stitch the rows together pressing seams in one direction to complete one 16-Patch block. Repeat to make 20 blocks.

4. Stitch four 16-Patch blocks alternately with three

2. Remove paper from a 2" circle. Center and fuse on a B square (Figure 1). Trim fused square to 3" square referring again to Figure 1. Repeat to make 6 circle cornerstones.

5. Arrange and stitch four C sashing strips, two cornerstones and one D square together into Sash Row 1 referring to Figure 2. Press seams toward C. Repeat to make two of Sash Row 1.

B

C sashing strips referring to the Assembly Diagram to make a block row; press seams toward C. Repeat to make five block rows.

Sash Row 1 Make 2 D

C

Sash Row 2 Make 2 C

Figure 1

3. Machine buttonhole-stitch or blanket-stitch around

each circle to appliqué in place. Note: Using fabric stabilizer behind the area to be stitched helps create a smooth stitch. Cut a piece of fabric stabilizer at least 1" larger than the applique piece and pin to the wrong side of the appliqué area. Stitch as instructed and remove the stabilizer.

D

Figure 2

6. Arrange and stitch four C sashing strips, two D squares and 1 cornerstone together into Sash Row 2 referring again to Figure 2. Repeat to make two of Sash Row 2. 7. Stitch block rows and sash rows together referring to the Assembly Diagram for row placement and orientation; press seams toward sash rows.

F

C

E

Green Means GO! Alternate Size Assembly Diagram 88" x 96" Green Means GO! Assembly Diagram 561/2" x 67"

40

Make 56 blocks and cut 48 more sashing strips to make 8 block rows with 7 blocks and 6 sashing strips in each row. Make 7 sashing rows as shown, alternating the B squares with circles and no circles. Use the same-width border strips as the smaller-size quilt. Remember to increase fabric yardages to make this larger-size quilt.

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8. Stitch E borders to opposite sides and F borders to top and bottom of quilt; press seams toward borders. 9. Position all remaining circles randomly on the bottom left and top right corners of the borders. Remove paper and fuse circles onto border strips.

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10. Machine buttonhole-stitch or blanket-stitch

around each circle to appliqué in place. Note: Using fabric stabilizer behind the area to be stitched helps create a smooth stitch. See note in step 3.

11. Layer, quilt as desired and bind referring to

Finishing Your Quilt and Binding Edges on page 6 in General Instructions. ❖

41

Confetti Lap Quilt Designed & Quilted by Julie Weaver

Dig into your stash for floral scraps and get started on this gorgeous lap quilt. All it takes is your time, scraps and two dies. Specifications

Skill Level: Confident Beginner Lap Quilt Size: 47" x 561/2" Block Size: 6" x 6" finished Number of Blocks: 50

Die-Cutting Instructions From assorted pink, blue, green, white/cream scraps: • Cut 100 (41/2" x 71/2") rectangles. Stack 6 rectangles •

A

Confetti 6" x 6" Finished Block Make 50

•

Materials

• Assorted large and small pink, blue, green, white/cream scraps • 3/4 yard white/cream print • 11/4 yards green print • Thread • 21/2 yards paper-backed fusible web • Backing to size • Batting to size • Accuquilt GO! Fabric Cutter • Accuquilt GO! Dies: Round Flower (55007) Rectangle—31/2" x 61/2" (55005) 11/2" strip cutter (55024)* • Basic sewing tools and supplies *Die not compatible with GO! Baby system.

• •

•

together or individually die-cut a total of 100 A rectangles using rectangle die. Follow manufacturer’s instructions to fuse paperbacked fusible web to wrong side of remaining assorted scraps. From fused scraps cut as follows: 26 (2") squares white/cream 16 (21/2") squares pink 10 (41/4") squares pink 10 (21/2") squares blue 10 (31/2") squares green 12 (2" x 61/2") rectangles green Place a fused scrap over the appropriate area of the Round Flower die and die-cut a total of: 26 white/cream 1" flower centers 16 pink star flowers 10 pink flowers 10 blue star centers Fold 31/2"-square green fused scraps in half, fused sides together; press. Position over the leaf and die-cut a total of 10 leaves and 10 reversed leaves. Layer 2" x 61/2"-rectangle green fused scraps, fused sides together, in pairs. Position layered scraps over the stem and die-cut a total of 6 stems and 6 reversed stems. Cut 2 (81/2" by fabric width) strips. Fan-fold each strip 81/2" wide and die-cut 10 strips for B/C/F/G using strip cutter.

Additional Cutting Instructions From white/cream print:

• Cut 5 (5" by fabric width) D/E strips.

From green print: • Cut 6 (21/4" by fabric width) strips for binding.

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43

44

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Completing the Quilt

1. Sew two randomly chosen A rectangles together

along long sides referring to block drawing to make a Confetti block. Repeat to make a total of 50 blocks.

2. Arrange blocks as desired in four rows referring to Figure 1, turning every other block in the row. Make 2 of each row.

5. Stitch quilt halves together offsetting Row 4 and referring again to Figure 2 to complete the quilt center. 6. Trim the outer row of blocks 1/4" beyond the inside points as shown in Figure 3. The pieced center should measure 341/2" x 43".

Row 4

/4"

1

Row 3

Row 2

Row 1

Figure 3

Figure 1

3. Stitch the blocks together in rows; press seams toward horizontal blocks. 4. Stitch one each rows 1–4 together diagonally, offsetting each row by one block referring to Figure 2. Stitch a block centered on row 1 to complete one half of the quilt center. Repeat to make second half.

7. Stitch B/C/F/G strips together using an angled seam. Trim seam allowances to 1/4" and press in one direction. Cut two each 11/2" x 43" B, 11/2" x 361/2" C, 11/2" x 54" F and 11/2" x 471/2" G borders.

G E C

F

Figure 2

B

D

Confetti Lap Quilt Assembly Diagram 47" x 551/2"

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45

8. Stitch D/E strips together using an angled seam; trim seam allowances to 1/4" and press in one direction. Cut two each 5" x 45" D and 5" x 451/2" E borders. 9. Stitch C borders to opposite sides of quilt center; press seams toward C. Stitch B borders to top and bottom of quilt center; press seams toward B. 10. Stitch E borders to opposite sides and D to top and

bottom of quilt center; press seams toward B and C.

11. Stitch G borders to opposite sides and F to top and

12. Arrange Round Flower appliqué pieces on borders as desired referring to Assembly Diagram and project photo for suggestions. Remove paper and fuse following manufacturer’s directions. 13. Machine blanket-stitch around each appliqué

piece with thread of your choice.

14. Layer, quilt as desired and bind referring to Finishing Your Quilt and Binding Edges on page 6 in the General Instructions. ❖

bottom of quilt; press seams toward F and G.

46

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Alphabet Soup Designed & Quilted by Connie Kauffman

Any child would love to have this quilt to cuddle. The alphabet appliqué not only adds beauty to this easy design, it also doubles as a teaching tool for learning ABCs. Specifications

Skill Level: Confident Beginner Quilt Size: 401/2" x 491/2" Block Size: 41/2" x 41/2" finished Number of Blocks: 30

Materials • • • • • • • • • • • • •

4 (5") square red plaid scraps 26 (5") square assorted solid scraps 62 (5") square assorted novelty print scraps 1/2 yard yellow dot 5/8 yard red dot 1/2 yard blue dot Backing to size Batting to size Thread 11/2 yard paper-backed fusible web AccuQuilt GO! Fabric Cutter AccuQuilt GO! Die: Carefree Alphabet Set (55092)* Basic sewing tools and supplies

*Die not compatible with GO! Baby system.

Die-Cutting Instructions From 13 assorted novelty prints:

• Cut and apply 13 (5") squares of paper-backed fusible web to the wrong side of 13 assorted novelty prints. Position a fused square over letters: B, E, G, I, K, M, O, Q, S, U, W, X, Z and die-cut one of each. Do not remove paper. Set aside.

From 13 assorted solid scraps:

• Cut and apply 13 (5") squares of paper-backed fusible web to the wrong side of 13 assorted solids. Position a fused square over letters: A, C, D, F, H, J, L, N, P, R, T, V, Y and die-cut one of each. Do not remove paper. Set aside.

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Additional Cutting Instructions From yellow dot: • Cut 2 (21/2" by fabric width) strips. Subcut 2 (21/2" x 271/2") B borders. • Cut 2 (31/2" by fabric width) strips. Subcut 2 (31/2" x 27") C borders. From red dot:

• Cut 2 (3" by fabric width) strips. Subcut 2 (3" x 331/2") D borders. • Cut 2 (41/4" by fabric width) strips. Subcut 2 (41/4" x 32") E borders.

From blue dot: • Cut 5 (21/4" by fabric width) binding strips.

Completing the Quilt

1. Arrange 13 each assorted print and solid 5" squares

in six rows of five squares each. Place a red plaid square in each corner and alternate the prints and solids referring to the Assembly Diagram.

2. Position print alphabet letters on solid squares and solid alphabet letters on print squares in alphabetical order referring again to the Assembly Diagram. Do not place a letter in the red plaid corner squares. 3. Fuse the letters in place following manufacturer’s instructions. Note: Letters are fused at various angles as shown in photo or Assembly Diagram. Machine buttonhole-stitch around each letter with coordinating thread.

6. Stitch the B borders to opposite sides and C borders to the top and bottom of the quilt center referring to the Assembly Diagram. Press seams toward B and C. 7. Stitch D borders to opposite sides and E border to the top and bottom of the quilt referring to the Assembly Diagram. Press seams toward D and E. 8. Stitch remaining assorted print squares together in four rows of nine squares each; press seams in one direction. 9. Stitch one pieced row to opposite sides and then to the top and bottom of the quilt referring to the Assembly Diagram; press seam allowances toward D and E borders. 10. Layer, quilt as desired and bind referring to

Finishing Your Quilt and Binding Edges on page 6 of the General Instructions. ❖

E A

C

D

B

B C F G H K L M P Q R U V W Y Z X

A D E I J N O S T

4. Sew appliquéd blocks in rows as arranged; press seams in opposite directions between rows. 5. Sew rows together, pressing seams in one direction, to complete the quilt pieced center.

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Alphabet Soup Assembly Diagram 401/2" x 491/2"

49

A Thimbleful Design by Gina Gempesaw Quilted by Carole Whaling

Select your scraps, piece them together and then use the Tumbler die to cut the shape. Showcase your scraps in this contemporary setting. Specifications

Skill Level: Intermediate Quilt Size: 551/2" x 70"

Materials

• • • • • • • •

Assorted scraps red and dark prints 11/8 yards red floral 31/4 yards white tonal Backing to size Batting to size Thread AccuQuilt GO! Fabric Cutter AccuQuilt GO! Dies: 21/2" square (55059)* Tumbler—61/2" (55020)* 3" strip cutter (55084)* 2" strip cutter (55025)* • Basic sewing tools and supplies

*Die not compatible with GO! Baby system.

Die-Cutting Instructions From assorted scraps: • Trim large scraps to 81/2" square to cut 9 (21/2") squares per scrap, or position 31/2" square scraps individually

From white tonal: • Cut 6 (71/2" by fabric width) strips.

Die-cut a total of 42 A tumblers referring to the Helpful Hints on the Fabric Reference Chart on page 9 in General Instructions. • Cut 2 (21" by fabric width) strips and 2 (7" by fabric width) strips. Fan-fold each 21" strip 7" wide and die-cut 16 strips for C/F/G sashing and borders strips using 3" strip cutter die.

Additional Cutting Instructions From red floral: • Cut 7 (21/4" by fabric width) strips for binding.

Completing Quilt

1. Stitch 14 assorted B squares in two rows of four

squares and two rows of three squares; press seams in opposite directions row to row. Stitch rows together, alternating rows referring to Figure 1. Press seam allowances in one direction. Repeat to make 35 pieced units. B

over squares on die. Die-cut 490 B squares using 21/2" square die.

From red floral:

• Cut 2 (9" by fabric width) strips. Fan-fold each strip 9" wide and die-cut 7 strips for D/E borders using 2" strip cutter die. • Set aside remaining yardage for additional cutting.

50

Figure 1

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52

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2. Center a pieced unit right side up over the tumbler die as shown in Figure 2. Individually die-cut 35 thimble units.

9. Stitch D to opposite sides and E to top and bottom of quilt. Press seams toward D and E. 10. Stitch F to opposite sides and G to top and bottom

of quilt. Press seams toward D and E.

Die-cut 35

11. Layer, quilt as desired and bind referring to

Finishing Your Quilt and Binding Edges on page 6 of General Instructions. ❖ G

Figure 2

E

3. Stitch 6 A and 5 thimble units together in a row

C

referring to Figure 3. Press seams toward A. 48"

61/2"

Figure 3

4. Trim row to 61/2" x 48", referring again to Figure 3. 5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 to make seven thimble rows. 6. Stitch C/F/G strips into one long strip with angled seams; trim seams to 1/4" and press open. Cut eight 3" x 48" C sashing strips and two each 3" x 651/2" F and 3" x 56" G border strips. Set aside F and G border strips.

F

D

7. Stitch the C strips and thimble rows together alternately, beginning with a C strip referring to the Assembly Diagram. 8. Stitch D/E strips into one long strip with angled seams; trim seams to 1/4" and press open. Cut two each 2" x 621/2" D and 2" x 51" E borders.

A Thimbleful Quilt Assembly Diagram 551/2" x 70"

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53

Cupcake Tower Designed & Quilted by Sue Harvey and Sandy Boobar for Pine Tree Country Quilts

Make a cute wall hanging to brighten up any room. Machine appliqué and a yo-yo cherry top make this a fast and easy project. Specifications

Skill Level: Confident Beginner Wall Hanging Size: 18" x 30"

Materials

Assorted (41/2" x 5") print scraps 5 (41/2") square different stripe scraps 5 (5" x 31/2") different polka dot scraps 1/3 yard white tonal 1/2 yard dark pink tonal Backing to size Batting to size Thread 3/4 yard 18"-wide fusible web AccuQuilt GO! Fabric Cutter AccuQuilt GO! Dies: Cupcake (55097) Circle—2", 3", 5" (55012) Rectangle—2" x 31/2" (55158) • Basic sewing tools and supplies

• • • • • • • • • • •

Die-Cutting Instructions From print scraps:

• Stack 4 print/tonal scraps together or individually diecut 58 (2" x 31/2") F rectangles. • Die-cut 1 (3") circle for yo-yo.

From stripe scraps: • Cut out and apply 5 (41/2") squares of paper-backed

fusible web to the wrong side of each stripe square scrap. Place squares individually, right side up, centered over the cupcake bottom of the Cupcake die and die-cut 5 cupcake bottoms. Do not remove paper; set aside.

From tonal/polka dot scraps: • Cut out and apply 5 (5" x 31/2") rectangles of paper-

backed fusible web to the wrong side of each tonal/ polka dot scrap. Place rectangles individually, right side up, centered over the cupcake top of the Cupcake die and die-cut 5 cupcake tops. Do not remove paper; set aside.

Additional Cutting Instructions From white tonal: • Cut 1 (81/2" by fabric width) strip. Subcut 1 (81/2" x 201/2") A rectangle. From dark pink tonal: • Cut 3 (11/2" by fabric width) strips. Subcut 2 each 11/2" x 201/2" B, 11/2" x 251/2" D, 11/2" x 151/2" E and 11/2" x 101/2" C. • Cut 3 (21/4" by fabric width) strips for binding.

Completing the Quilt

1. Fold the A rectangle in half lengthwise and crease

to mark the centerline.

2. Arrange the cupcake bottoms and tops in a line at the center of the A rectangle. Position the bottom cupcake 3/4" from the bottom edge of the A rectangle and the top cupcake 11/4" from the top edge of the A rectangle as shown in Figure 1. 11/4" A

/4"

3

Figure 1

54

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3. Remove paper and fuse cupcakes in place following manufacturer’s instructions to the A rectangle for quilt center. 4. Sew a B strip to opposite long sides of appliquéd center and a C strip to the top and bottom; press seams toward the strips. Note: Refer to the Placement Diagram for steps 4–10.

14. Turn the edges of the yo-yo circle 1/8" to the wrong side and sew hand-gathering stitches close to the fold as shown in Figure 2. Pull the thread to draw up the edges into a tight circle. Knot thread to complete the yo-yo.

5. Join eight F rectangles on the short ends to make

1

a strip; press seams in one direction. Trim to make a 2" x 221/2" pieced F strip.

/8"

6. Repeat step 5 to make a second strip. Sew the pieced F strips to the long sides of the quilt center. Press seams toward the B strips. 7. Repeat step 5 with two sets of five F rectangles to make two strips and trim strips to 2" x 131/2". Sew the strips to the top and bottom of the quilt center; press seams toward C. 8. Sew the D strips to opposite long sides and the

E strips to the top and bottom of the quilt center. Press seams toward D and E.

Figure 2

15. Referring to the Placement Diagram, tack the

yo-yo on the top cupcake to finish. ❖ F

9. Repeat step 5 with two sets of 10 F rectangles to make two strips and trim strips to 2" x 271/2". Sew the pieced strips to the long sides of the quilt center; press seams toward D.

E

C

10. Join six F rectangles to make a 2" x 181/2" strip;

press seams in one direction. Repeat to make a second strip. Sew the strips to the top and bottom of the quilt center to complete the top. Press seams toward E.

11. Layer and baste wall hanging top, batting and

backing together referring to Finishing Your Quilt on page 6 in General Instructions.

F

D

B

12. Buttonhole-stitch around the cupcake tops and bottoms using white thread. 13. Quilt as desired and bind the quilt referring to

Finishing Your Quilt and Binding Edges on page 6 in General Instructions.

Cupcake Tower Assembly Diagram 18" x 30"

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57

Quilting Basics The following is a reference guide. For more information, consult a comprehensive quilting book. Always:

• Read through the entire pattern before you begin your project. • Purchase quality, 100 percent cotton fabrics. • When considering prewashing, do so with ALL of the fabrics being used. Generally, prewashing is not required in quilting. • Use ¼" seam allowance for all stitching unless otherwise instructed. • Use a short-to-medium stitch length. • Make sure your seams are accurate.

Quilting Tools & Supplies • • • • • •

• • • • •

Rotary cutter and mat Scissors for paper and fabric Nonslip quilting rulers Marking tools Sewing machine Sewing machine feet: 1/4” seaming foot (for piecing) Walking or even-feed foot (for piecing or quilting) Darning or free-motion foot (for free-motion quilting) Quilting hand-sewing needles Straight pins Curved safety pins for basting Seam ripper Iron and ironing surface

Basic Techniques Appliqué

Fusible Appliqué All templates in Quilter’s World are reversed for use with this technique. 1. Trace the instructed number of templates ¼" apart onto the paper side of paper-backed fusible web. Cut apart the templates, leaving a margin around each, and fuse to the wrong side of the fabric following fusible web manufacturer’s instructions. 2. Cut the appliqué pieces out on the traced lines, remove paper backing and fuse to the background referring to the appliqué motif given. 3. Finish appliqué raw edges with a straight, satin, blanket, zigzag or blind-hem machine stitch with matching or invisible thread. Turned-Edge Appliqué 1. Trace the printed reversed templates onto template plastic. Flip the template over and mark as the right side. 2. Position the template, right side up, on the right side of fabric and lightly trace, spacing images ½" apart. Cut apart, leaving a ¼" margin around the traced lines. 3. Clip curves and press edges ¼" to the wrong side around the appliqué shape.

5. Hand-stitch shapes in place using a blind stitch and thread to match or machine-stitch using a short blind hemstitch and either matching or invisible thread.

Borders

Most Quilter’s World patterns give an exact size to cut borders. You may check those sizes by comparing them to the horizontal and vertical center measurements of your quilt top. Straight Borders 1. Mark the centers of the side borders and quilt top sides. 2. Stitch borders to quilt top sides with right sides together and matching raw edges and center marks using a ¼" seam. Press seams toward borders. 3. Repeat with top and bottom border lengths. Mitered Borders 1. Add at least twice the border width to the border lengths instructed to cut. 2. Center and sew the side borders to the quilt, beginning and ending stitching 1/4" from the quilt corner and backstitching (Figure 1). Repeat with the top and bottom borders. 1

/4"

4. Referring to the appliqué motif, pin or baste appliqué shapes to the background. Figure 1

58

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3. Fold and pin quilt right sides together at a 45-degree angle on one corner (Figure 2). Place a straightedge along the fold and lightly mark a line across the border ends.

4. When quilting is complete, remove pins or basting. Trim batting and backing edges even with raw edges of quilt top.

6. Trim binding end long enough to tuck inside starting end and complete stitching (Figure 7).

Binding the Quilt

1. Join binding strips on short ends with diagonal seams to make one long strip; trim seams to ¼" and press seams open (Figure 4). Figure 7

Figure 2

7. Fold binding to quilt back and stitch in place by hand or machine to complete your quilt.

4. Stitch along the line, backstitching to secure. Trim seam to ¼" and press open (Figure 3).

Quilting Terms /4"

1

Figure 4 Figure 3

Quilt Backing & Batting

We suggest that you cut your backing and batting 8" larger than the finished quilt-top size. If preparing the backing from standard-width fabrics, remove the selvages and sew two or three lengths together; press seams open. If using 108"-wide fabric, trim to size on the straight grain of the fabric. Prepare batting the same size as your backing. You can purchase prepackaged sizes or battings by the yard and trim to size.

Quilting

1. Press quilt top on both sides and trim all loose threads. 2. Make a quilt sandwich by layering the backing right side down, batting and quilt top centered right side up on flat surface and smooth out. Pin or baste layers together to hold. 3. Mark quilting design on quilt top and quilt as desired by hand or machine. Note: If you are sending your quilt to a professional quilter, contact them for specifics about preparing your quilt for quilting.

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2. Fold 1" of one short end to wrong side and press. Fold the binding strip in half with wrong sides together along length, again referring to Figure 4; press. 3. Starting about 3" from the folded short end, sew binding to quilt top edges, matching raw edges and using a ¼" seam. Stop stitching ¼" from corner and backstitch (Figure 5). Stop 1/4"

Figure 5

4. Fold binding up at a 45-degree angle to seam and then down even with quilt edges, forming a pleat at corner, referring to Figure 6.

Figure 6

5. Resume stitching from corner edge as shown in Figure 6, down quilt side, backstitching ¼" from next corner. Repeat, mitering all corners, stitching to within 3" of starting point.

• Appliqué: Adding fabric motifs to a foundation fabric by hand or machine (see Appliqué section of Basic Techniques). • Basting: This temporarily secures layers of quilting materials together with safety pins, thread or a spray adhesive in preparation for quilting the layers. Use a long, straight stitch to hand- or machine-stitch one element to another holding the elements in place during construction and usually removed after construction. • Batting: An insulating material made in a variety of fiber contents that is used between the quilt top and back to provide extra warmth and loft. • Binding: A finishing strip of fabric sewn to the outer raw edges of a quilt to cover them. Straight-grain binding strips, cut on the crosswise straight grain of the fabric (see Straight & Bias Grain Lines illustration on page 60), are commonly used. Bias binding strips are cut at a 45-degree angle to the straight grain of the fabric. They are used when binding is being added to curved edges.

59

• Block: The basic quilting unit that is repeated to complete the quilt’s design composition. Blocks can be pieced, appliquéd or solid and are usually square or rectangular in shape. • Border: The frame of a quilt’s central design used to visually complete the design and give the eye a place to rest. • Fabric Grain: The fibers that run either parallel (lengthwise grain) or perpendicular (crosswise grain) to the fabric selvage are straight grain. Bias is any diagonal line between the lengthwise or crosswise grain. At these angles the fabric is less stable and stretches easily. The true bias of a woven fabric is a 45-degree angle between the lengthwise and crosswise grain lines. crosswise grain

selvage selvage

lengthwise grain lengthwise grain

as

bi

selvage

selvage

crosswise grain

as

bi

Straight & Bias Grain Lines

Straight & Bias Grain Lines • Mitered Corners: Matching borders or turning bindings at a 45-degree angle at corners. • Patchwork: A general term for the completed blocks or quilts that are made from smaller shapes sewn together. • Pattern: This may refer to the design of a fabric or to the written instructions for a particular quilt design.

60

• Piecing: The act of sewing smaller pieces and/or units of a block or quilt together. Paper or foundation piecing is sewing fabric to a paper or cloth foundation in a certain order. 1

2

3 4

• Quilt (noun): A sandwich of two layers of fabric with a third insulating material between them that is then stitched together with the edges covered or bound. • Quilt (verb): Stitching several layers of fabric materials together with a decorative design. Stippling, crosshatch, channel, in-the-ditch, free-motion, allover and meandering are all terms for quilting designs.

Foundation Piecing

String or chain piecing is sewing pieces together in a continuous string without clipping threads between sections.

Meandering MeanderingStitch Stitch in the in ditch the ditch Meandering Stitch-in-the-ditch Meandering MeanderingStitch Stitch in the in ditch the ditch

String or Chain Piecing

• Pressing: Pressing is the process of placing the iron on the fabric, lifting it off the fabric and placing it down in another location to flatten seams or crease fabric without sliding the iron across the fabric. Quilters do not usually use steam when pressing, since it can easily distort fabric shapes. Generally, seam allowances are pressed toward the darker fabric in quilting so that they do not show through the lighter fabric. Seams are pressed in opposite directions where seams are being joined to allow seams to butt against each other and to distribute bulk. Seams are pressed open when multiple seams come together in one place. If you have a question about pressing direction, consult a comprehensive quilting guide for guidance.

Channel Channel Channel Channel Channel

Outline Outline Outline Outline Outline

• Quilt sandwich: A layer of insulating material between a quilt's top and back fabric. • Rotary cutting: Using a rotary cutting blade and straightedge to cut fabric. • Sashing: Strips of fabric sewn between blocks to separate or set off the designs. • Subcut: A second cutting of rotary-cut strips that makes the basic shapes used in block and quilt construction. • Template: A pattern made from a sturdy material which is then used to cut shapes for patchwork and appliqué quilting. ❖

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Metric Conversion Charts Metric Conversions Canada/U.S. Measurement

Multiplied by Metric Measurement

yards

x

=

metres (m)

13⁄8 yards

=

125.73 cm

=

1.26 m

yards

x

91.44

=

centimetres (cm)

11/2 yards

=

137.16 cm

=

1.37 m

inches

x

2.54

=

centimetres (cm)

15⁄8 yards

=

148.59 cm

=

1.49 m

=

millimetres (mm)

13/4 yards

=

160.02 cm

=

1.60 m

=

metres (m)

inches

x

inches

x

.9144

Metric Measurement

Canada/U.S. Measurement

25.40 .0254

Canada/U.S. Measurement

Multiplied by Metric Measurement

centimetres

x

.3937

=

inches

metres

x

1.0936

=

yards

Standard Equivalents Metric Measurement

Canada/U.S. Measurement

17⁄8 yards

=

171.44 cm

=

1.71 m

2 yards

=

182.88 cm

=

1.83 m

21⁄8 yards

=

194.31 cm

=

1.94 m

21/4 yards

=

205.74 cm

=

2.06 m

23⁄8 yards

=

217.17 cm

=

2.17 m

21/2 yards

=

228.60 cm

=

2.29 m

25⁄8 yards

=

240.03 cm

=

2.40 m

23/4 yards

=

251.46 cm

=

2.51 m

1⁄8 inch

=

3.20 mm

=

0.32 cm

27⁄8 yards

=

262.88 cm

=

2.63 m

1/4 inch

=

6.35 mm

=

0.635 cm

3 yards

=

274.32 cm

=

2.74 m

3⁄8 inch

=

9.50 mm

=

0.95 cm

31⁄8 yards

=

285.75 cm

=

2.86 m

1/2 inch

=

12.70 mm

=

1.27 cm

31/4 yards

=

297.18 cm

=

2.97 m

5⁄8 inch

=

15.90 mm

=

1.59 cm

33⁄8 yards

=

308.61 cm

=

3.09 m

3/4 inch

=

19.10 mm

=

1.91 cm

31/2 yards

=

320.04 cm

=

3.20 m

7⁄8 inch

=

22.20 mm

=

2.22 cm

35⁄8 yards

=

331.47 cm

=

3.31 m

1 inch

=

25.40 mm

=

2.54 cm

33/4 yards

=

342.90 cm

=

3.43 m

1⁄8 yard

=

11.43 cm

=

0.11 m

37⁄8 yards

=

354.32 cm

=

3.54 m

1/4 yard

=

22.86 cm

=

0.23 m

4 yards

=

365.76 cm

=

3.66 m

3⁄8 yard

=

34.29 cm

=

0.34 m

41⁄8 yards

=

377.19 cm

=

3.77 m

1/2 yard

=

45.72 cm

=

0.46 m

41/4 yards

=

388.62 cm

=

3.89 m

5⁄8 yard

=

57.15 cm

=

0.57 m

43⁄8 yards

=

400.05 cm

=

4.00 m

3/4 yard

=

68.58 cm

=

0.69 m

41/2 yards

=

411.48 cm

=

4.11 m

7⁄8 yard

=

80.00 cm

=

0.80 m

45⁄8 yards

=

422.91 cm

=

4.23 m

1 yard

=

91.44 cm

=

0.91 m

43/4 yards

=

434.34 cm

=

4.34 m

11⁄8 yards

=

102.87 cm

=

1.03 m

47⁄8 yards

=

445.76 cm

=

4.46 m

11/4 yards

=

114.30 cm

=

1.14 m

5 yards

=

457.20 cm

=

4.57 m

GO! Scrapping With AccuQuilt

61

Photo Index 11

16

25 20

28

38 34

47 43

50

54

Special Thanks Please join us in thanking the talented designers whose work is featured in this collection. Gina Gempesaw A Thimbleful, page 50 Green Means GO!, page 38 Sandra L. Hatch Stained Glass Tote, page 28 Connie Kauffman Alphabet Soup, page 47 Chris Malone How Does Your Garden Grow?, page 16 Starstruck Throw, page 11

Sue Harvey & Sandy Boobar Cupcake Tower, page 54 Missy Shepler Crazy Cores, page 34 Woolly Bits, page 25 Julie Weaver Confetti Lap Quilt, page 43 Sunny Sue Baby Quilt, page 20

GO! Scrapping With AccuQuilt is published by Annie’s, 306 East Parr Road, Berne, IN 46711. Printed in USA. Copyright © 2013 Annie’s. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced in part or in whole without written permission from the publisher. RETAIL STORES: If you would like to carry this pattern book or any other Annie’s publication, visit AnniesWSL.com. Every effort has been made to ensure that the instructions in this pattern book are complete and accurate. We cannot, however, take responsibility for human error, typographical mistakes or variations in individual work. Please visit AnniesCustomerCare.com to check for pattern updates.

ISBN: 978-1-59635-674-0 123456789

Save time and money as you turn your scraps into stunning quilts. Do it in a snap with an AccuQuilt GO! or GO! Baby ! ®

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