Florence Tan's Timeless Peranakan Recipes 9789814779876, 9814779873

Peranakan cuisine combines the best of Chinese and Malay influences to offer a unique fusion of exotic and aromatic food

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Florence Tan's Timeless Peranakan Recipes
 9789814779876, 9814779873

Table of contents :
cover
title page
verso page
dedication
contents
introduction
mango rice, chicken curry
mee suah soup, stir-fried chicken with ginger
sambal timun
ikan kuah lada
stir-fried curried clams
gerang asam
deep-fried sour prawns (shrimps)
braised peppery chicken
sambal cencaluk
titik papaya
ikan kukus asam, kerabu kubis
nyonya fried rice
devil curry
acar awak, ikan pinang
ayam oh, otak-otak panggang
crispy anchovies with kalamansi juice
udang masak lemak
paceri terung
nasi kembuli
stir-fried chicken with preserved soy bean paste, udang berempah
mee suah tow
chillied prawns with preserved soy bean paste
belimbing buluh dengan tau cheo, inchee kay bin
hee peow soup
sambal jantung pisang
nasi goreng cencaluk, fish curry
rojak nyonya
nyonya fried noodles
laksa melaka
fried spicy chicken a'la nyonya
sambal belimbing buluh
fish and eggplants in coconut gravy
kerabu bee hoon
ayam cencaluk
ayam pongteh
itik tim
turnip in coconut milk, acar ikan
pong taufu soup, ikan masin masak air masam
ayam buah keluak
fried chap chye
mee siam
kari udang kapitan
spicy tamarind prawns with long beans
sweet potato and sea snail curry
jackfruit curry
spicy and sour fish head curry
nasi ulam
nyonya yee sang
chicken satay with peanut sauce
king prawns with spicy shrimp paste
kuih pie tee
steamed pearl sago with coconut
putugal
apam berkuah
gading galoh
tai bak
apam balik nyonya, kuih bijan
popiah
talam gula melaka
basic recipes
glossary
cooking tips, weights & measures
back cover

Citation preview

NCE TAN S’ E R O L F

TIMELESS PERANAKAN RECIPES P LY D E L I C I O U S S I M N YA C O O K I NG N YO

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Copyright © 2001 Times Media Private Limited Copyright © 2005 Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited First published as Celebrity Chefs Cookbooks: Secrets of the Nyonya Kitchen in 2001. Reprinted 2002 and 2005. Published as Recipes from the Nyonya Kitchen in 2009. This new edition published in 2017 by Marshall Cavendish Cuisine An imprint of Marshall Cavendish International

All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright owner. Requests for permission should be addressed to the Publisher, Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited, 1 New Industrial Road, Singapore 536196. Tel: (65) 6213 9300 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.marshallcavendish.com/genref Limits of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: The Author and Publisher of this book have used their best efforts in preparing this book. The Publisher makes no representation or warranties with respect to the contents of this book and is not responsible for the outcome of any recipe in this book. While the Publisher has reviewed each recipe carefully, the reader may not always achieve the results desired due to variations in ingredients, cooking temperatures and individual cooking abilities. The Publisher shall in no event be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damage, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages. Other Marshall Cavendish Offices: Marshall Cavendish Corporation. 99 White Plains Road, Tarrytown NY 10591-9001, USA • Marshall Cavendish International (Thailand) Co Ltd. 253 Asoke, 12th Flr, Sukhumvit 21 Road, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand • Marshall Cavendish (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd, Times Subang, Lot 46, Subang Hi-Tech Industrial Park, Batu Tiga, 40000 Shah Alam, Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia Marshall Cavendish is a registered trademark of Times Publishing Limited National Library Board, Singapore Cataloguing-in-Publication Data Name(s): Tan, Florence. Title: Florence Tan’s timeless Peranakan recipes. Other title(s): Timeless Peranakan recipes Description: New edition | Singapore : Marshall Cavendish Cuisine, 2017. | Originally published as: Recipes from the Nyonya kitchen. 2009. Identifier(s): OCN 992152436 | ISBN 978-981-47-7987-6 (paperback) Subject(s): LCSH: Cooking, Peranakan. Classification: DDC 641.59595--dc23 Printed by Times Offset (M) Sdn Bhd Chef’s Assistants: Anne Rozario, Amy Koh, Koh Kim Lian Photographer: Jenhor Siow The publisher wishes to thank Claycraft, Malaysia; Lotus Arte Sdn Bhd, Malaysia; Ikea Pte Ltd, Malaysia, and Melium Aseana Sdn Bhd, Malaysia for the loan and use of their crockery and utensils in this book.

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For my dearest husband, John and my beloved son, Nicky

3

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CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

7

AYAM OH

36

CHICKEN IN PRESERVED SOY BEAN PASTE GRAVY

MANGO RICE

8

CHICKEN CURRY

8

MEE SUAH SOUP

10

CRISPY ANCHOVIES WITH KALAMANSI JUICE

38

10

UDANG MASAK LEMAK PRAWNS [ SHRIMPS ] IN COCONUT

40

STIR-FRIED CHICKEN WITH GINGER SAMBAL TIMUN

12

WHEAT FLOUR VERMICELLI SOUP

CUCUMBER WITH SPICY SHRIMP PASTE

IKAN KUAH LADA

14

FISH IN PEPPERY GRAVY

STIR-FRIED CURRIED CLAMS

16

GERANG ASAM

18

SPICY AND SOUR FISH CURRY

OTAK-OTAK PANGGANG

36

GRILLED SPICY FISH PASTE

GRAVY

PACERI TERUNG

42

EGGPLANT IN SWEET AND SOUR SAUCE

NASI KEMBULI

44

SPICED RICE

STIR-FRIED CHICKEN WITH PRESERVED SOY BEAN PASTE

46

UDANG BEREMPAH

46

SPICY PRAWNS [ SHRIMPS ]

DEEP-FRIED SOUR PRAWNS (SHRIMPS)

20

BRAISED PEPPERY CHICKEN

22

BIRTHDAY NOODLES

SAMBAL CENCALUK

24

CHILLIED PRAWNS (SHRIMPS) WITH PRESERVED SOY BEAN PASTE

50

BELIMBING BULUH DENGAN TAU CHEO

52

CHILLIED PRESERVED SHRIMPS

TITIK PAPAYA

26

PAPAYA IN PEPPERY SOUP

IKAN KUKUS ASAM STEAMED SPICY , SWEET AND

MEE SUAH TOW

48

BILIMBI WITH PRESERVED SOY BEANS

28 SOUR FISH

KERABU KUBIS

28

CABBAGE SALAD

NYONYA FRIED RICE

30 32

ACAR AWAK

34

VEGETABLE PICKLE WITH SESAME AND PEANUTS , PENANG – STYLE

FISH IN SPICY TAMARIND GRAVY

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52

HEE PEOW SOUP

54

DRIED FISH BLADDER SOUP

DEVIL CURRY

IKAN PINANG

INCHEE KAY BIN KAY BIN FRIED CHICKEN

34

SAMBAL JANTUNG PISANG

56

BANANA BLOSSOM WITH CHILLI PASTE

NASI GORENG CENCALUK

58

FRIED RICE WITH PRESERVED SHRIMPS

FISH CURRY

58

ROJAK NYONYA

60

NYONYA SALAD

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NYONYA FRIED NOODLES

62

LAKSA MELAKA MELAKA-STYLE NOODLES IN SPICY COCONUT MILK

64

FRIED SPICY CHICKEN A’LA NYONYA

66

SAMBAL BELIMBING BULUH

SPICY AND SOUR FISH HEAD CURRY NASI ULAM

98 100

RICE WITH HERBS

68

BILIMBI IN VHILLI GRAVY

NYONYA YEE SANG NYONYA - STYLE CHINESE

102 NEW YEAR SALAD

CHICKEN SATAY WITH PEANUT SAUCE

104

FISH AND EGGPLANTS IN COCONUT GRAVY

70

KERABU BEE HOON

72

KING PRAWNS (JUMBO SHRIMPS) WITH SPICY SHRIMP PASTE

106

74

KUIH PIE TEE

108

76

STEAMED PEARL SAGO WITH COCONUT

109

78

PUTUGAL BANANA - FILLED

110

RICE VERMICELLI SALAD

AYAM CENCALUK CHICKEN WITH PRESERVED SHRIMPS

AYAM PONGTEH CHICKEN STEW WITH PRESERVED SOY BEAN PASTE

ITIK TIM DUCK SOUP WITH SALTED CHINESE MUSTARD

TURNIP IN COCONUT MILK

80

ACAR IKAN

80

FISH PICKLE

TOP HAT

TAPIOCA ROLLS

APAM BERKUAH

111

PANCAKE WITH RICH BANANA SAUCE

GADING GALOH

112

GLUTINOUS RICE WITH CUSTARD TOPPING

PONG TAUFU SOUP

82

FISH AND BEAN CURD BALL SOUP

TAI BAK

114

NYONYA CENDOL

IKAN MASIN MASAK AIR MASAM

82

FRIED SALTED FISH IN TAMARIND GRAVY

AYAM BUAH KELUAK

84

GHICKEN IN BLACK NUT GRAVY

APAM BALIK NYONYA NYONYA - STYLE PANCAKE

116

KUIH BIJAN

116

SESAME PUFFS

FRIED CHAP CHYE

86

MEE SIAM

88

SPICY FRIED VERMICELLI IN TANGY SAUCE

KARI UDANG KAPITAN CAPTAIN ’ S PRAWN [ SHRIMP ]

POPIAH TALAM GULA MELAKA

90

118

SPRING ROLLS

120

PALM SUGAR LAYERED CAKE

CURRY

BASIC RECIPES

122

GLOSSARY

126

94

COOKING TIPS

128

96

WEIGHTS & MEASURES

128

SPICY TAMARIND PRAWNS (SHRIMPS) WITH LONG BEANS

92

SWEET POTATO AND SEA SNAIL CURRY JACKFRUIT CURRY

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INTR

ODUCTION

Much has been written about

Thai, particularly noticeable in their

I grew up in such an environment in

the Peranakan or Straits Chinese

kerabu (salad) dishes. The Nyonyas

Tranquerah, Melaka. My very first

community: the opulent lifestyle of

in Melaka enhance their dishes with

lesson in Bibik’s presence was a

the Babas and Nyonyas, their cultural

the aroma of fragrant leaves, flowers

complete disaster when I burnt a

heritage, and, in particular, the

and herbs. Both, however, agree on

pot of rice. Luckily my Mother saved

interweaving of Chinese and Malay

the liberal use of chillies and coconut

the day. Growing up in such an

cultures that has given them a cuisine

milk, prominent in Malay cooking.

environment, it was only natural that

(popularly known as Nyonya cuisine) which is unique.

At the heart of Nyonya cuisine lies the skill of the Nyonyas, seen in their

I would make cooking my profession. The lessons I learnt have stood me in good stead and this book is my tribute

Although there is no record of the

creations of dainty, delicate cakes

significance of Nyonya cuisine on

and sweets. These delicate morsels

Malaysia’s culinary art, the first

reflect their fastidious ways, and the

I would like to express my special

aromas of a mixed cuisine came from

recipes and methods of cooking them

thanks to my mentor, a noted

the Peranakan kitchens. It is only in

are closely guarded. Such family

international cooking master, Mr Lim

recent decades that Nyonya cuisine

secrets are customarily handed

Bian Yam; my culinary associates, in

has received worldwide exposure.

down by word of mouth from mother

particular Celine J Marbeck; all my

In a way, Nyonya cuisine represents

to daughter.

relatives who have helped in one way

authentic Malaysian cuisine—a taste of Chinese with a dash of Malay herbs and Indian spices; cooked in the Malay-style in a Chinese wok or an Indian curry pot. Mention Nyonya food and eyes light up, the tongue caresses the lips and a knowing nod accompanies accolades when conversations turn to dishes like Ayam Buah Keluak, Itik Tim or Ayam Pongteh.

The Peranakan kitchen is the domain of womenfolk, with Mother and Bibik orchestrating the symphony of meals to be served in a large household. Bibik is the commanding presence no Peranakan kitchen is complete

to my Mother and, of course, Bibik.

or another; my television fans and viewers of my cookshows; and to my husband John; son Nicky and my niece Patricia Lee, whose tremendous support helped me through the writing of this book.

without. Her culinary expertise is

My appreciation and thanks go

unquestionable, her repertoire of

also to Marshall Cavendish and

recipes inexhaustive. She demands

the photographer whose artistic flair

the very best from kitchen retainers

transformed my dishes into gourmet

and cooks. As she flits from flaming

creations.

Penang Nyonya cuisine differs slightly

wok to boiling cauldron, she sniffs

from Melaka Nyonya cuisine. The

and tastes like a five-star chef. Her

Penang Nyonyas prefer a sweet-

culinary standards must never be

sour or tangy taste with nuances of

challenged or disputed.

With this book, I leave each and every one of you a legacy of simply delicious Nyonya cooking.

7

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MANGO RICE Rice Dish | 50-minute Preparation | 15-minute Cooking | Serves 5 250 grams | 9 ounces chicken fillet, cut into small cubes 1 1/ 4–11/2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon sugar 1 / 4 teaspoon ground white pepper 1 1/ 2 teaspoons chicken stock granules 7 tablespoons cooking oil 60 grams | 2 ounces | 1/ 2 cup dried small prawns (shrimps)

40 grams | 11/2 ounces | 1/4 cup spicy shrimp paste (sambal belacan) (see page 122) 4 kaffir lime leaves, finely sliced 1 /2 torch ginger bud (bunga kantan), finely sliced 10 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced 800 grams | 13/4 pounds | 61/ 3 cups cooked rice, fluffed and cooled

200 grams | 7 ounces cucumber, seeded and cut into 0.5-cm | 1 /4-inch cubes 210 grams | 7 ounces unripe mango, peeled, stoned and coarsely grated GARNISH

2 red chillies, finely sliced 2 tablespoons crisp-fried shallots (see page 122)

1.

Season the chicken with salt, sugar, pepper and chicken stock granules, and set aside for 5 minutes.

2.

Heat the cooking oil and fry dried prawns until fragrant. Drain and set aside. Strain the oil and return it to the heat.

3.

Fry the marinated chicken until golden brown. Drain.

4.

Combine the dried prawns and chicken in a bowl. Add the rest of the ingredients, except the cucumber, mango and garnish. Stir well.

5.

Add cucumber and mango and mix well. Transfer to a serving dish. Garnish with red chillies and crisp-fried shallots. Serve immediately.

CHICKEN CURRY Curry Dish | 60-minute Preparation | 45-minute Cooking | Serves 8 1.5 kilograms | 3 pounds, 41/ 2 ounces chicken, cut into bite-sized pieces 3 tablespoons light soy sauce 3 tablespoons meat curry powder 565 grams | 1 pound, 4 ounces | 5 1/2 cups grated coconut 1.3 litres | 42 fl oz | 51/4 cups water 180 ml | 6 fl oz | 3/4 cup cooking oil 7.5 cm | 3 inches cinnamon stick CHEF’S NOTE: There are many varieties of potatoes, each with different cooking times. If the potatoes cook before the chicken, remove them and return to the pot only when chicken is tender.

2 sprigs curry leaves 2 star anise 5 cm | 2 inches ginger, peeled and cut into thin strips 55 grams | 2 ounces meat curry powder, blended with 85 ml | 21/2 fl oz | 1/3 cup water into a paste 4 potatoes, peeled and quartered 2 3/4 teaspoons salt

FINELY GROUND PASTE

6 dried chillies, soaked in water and drained (optional) 22 shallots, peeled 6 cloves garlic, peeled 2 teaspoons crushed dried shrimp paste

1.

Marinate the chicken in soy sauce and curry powder for 30 minutes.

2.

Combine the grated coconut with 300 ml / 10 fl oz / 11/4 cups water and squeeze out 300 ml / 10 fl oz / 11/4 cups thick coconut milk. Set aside the thick milk.

3.

Add remaining water to the grated coconut and squeeze out 1 litre / 32 fl oz / 4 cups thin coconut milk. Set aside the thin milk.

4.

Heat the cooking oil in a pot and fry cinnamon stick, curry leaves and star anise. Add ginger and finely ground paste and fry until fragrant.

5.

Add the curry paste and fry until aromatic. Add the marinated chicken and fry for 4 minutes on low heat to prevent curry paste from burning.

6.

Add potatoes and thin coconut milk. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 30 minutes.

7.

Add thick coconut milk and season with salt. Allow to boil for 3 minutes, stirring to prevent curdling.

8.

Remove from heat. Serve with rice. 8

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From top: Chicken Curry, Mango Rice.

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MEE SUAH SOUP

WHEAT FLOUR VERMICELLI SOUP

Soup Dish | 20-minute Preparation | 30-minute Cooking | Serves 6 3 tablespoons cooking oil 4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 200 grams | 7 ounces chicken fillet, minced (ground) 1.8 litres | 58 fl oz | 71/3 cups water 200 grams | 7 ounces dried wheat flour vermicelli (mee suah), soaked for 1 minute in cold water just before use

CHEF’S NOTE: Add 300 grams / 101/2 ounces peeled, sliced angled loofah (ketola), if desired.

400 grams | 14 ounces prawns (shrimps), shelled and deveined 4 teaspoons light soy sauce 1 /4 teaspoon salt 1 /2 teaspoon sugar GARNISH

3 tablespoons crisp-fried shallots (see page 122) 2 spring onions (scallions), chopped 1.

Heat the cooking oil and sauté garlic until fragrant. Add the chicken and stir-fry for a minute.

2.

Add the water, stir and bring to a boil.

3.

Add the vermicelli, prawns and soy sauce to the soup. Season with salt and sugar. When prawns are cooked, about 3–4 minutes, remove from the heat.

4.

Garnish with crisp-fried shallots and spring onions. Serve hot.

STIR-FRIED CHICKEN WITH GINGER Stir-fried Dish | 30-minute Preparation | 30-minute Cooking | Serves 10 3 tablespoons sesame oil 10 cloves garlic, peeled and finely pounded 12.5 cm | 5 inches ginger, peeled and sliced 1.5 kilograms | 3 pounds, 41/ 2 ounces chicken, cut into small pieces 2 tablespoons light soy sauce 2 tablespoons thick soy sauce

3

/4 teaspoon salt 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar 600 ml | 20 fl oz | 25/8 cups water 7 spring onions (scallions), cut into 2.5-cm | 1-inch lengths GARNISH

1 red chilli, cut into thin strips

1.

Heat the sesame oil and sauté the garlic and ginger.

2.

Add the chicken and fry until the meat changes colour.

3.

Add soy sauce, salt, sugar and water. Stir and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until chicken is cooked and gravy thickens.

4.

Mix in the spring onions.

5.

Garnish with red chilli before serving.

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From top: Mee Suah Soup (Wheat Flour Vermicelli Soup), Stir-fried Chicken with Ginger.

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SAMBAL TIMUN

CUCUMBER WITH SPICY SHRIMP PASTE

Vegetable Dish | 30-minute Preparation | Serves 5 500 grams | 1 pound, 11/2 ounces cucumber 30 grams | 1 ounce | 1/4 cup dried prawns (shrimps), soaked in boiling water for 4 minutes, drained and finely ground 3 1/ 2 tablespoons spicy shrimp paste (sambal belacan) (see page 122) CHEF’S NOTE: Serve cucumber salad immediately or it will turn watery and insipid. Add slices of cooked chicken gizzards and liver if desired. You may substitute the cucumber with fourangled bean (kacang botor) or pineapple.

6 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced 2 kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced 1 /2 tablespoon thinly sliced torch ginger bud (bunga kantan) 3 tablespoons kalamansi juice 1 /8 teaspoon salt 2 3/4 tablespoons sugar 1.

Halve the cucumbers lengthways and then cut into 0.5-cm / 1 /4-inch thick slices.

2.

Mix the rest of the ingredients in a bowl. Stir well.

3.

Toss in the cucumber and mix thoroughly. Serve immediately.

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IKAN KUAH LADA

FISH IN PEPPERY GRAVY

Gulai Dish | 40-minute Preparation | 30-minute Cooking | Serves 5–6 90 ml | 3 fl oz | 3/8 cup cooking oil 50 grams | 12/3 ounces | 1/4 cup tamarind pulp mixed with 750 ml | 24 fl oz | 3 cups water and strained to obtain 750 ml | 24 fl oz | 3 cups tamarind juice 11/ 4 teaspoons salt A pinch of seasoning powder 2 medium eggplants, quartered lengthways, then cut into 5-cm | 2-inch pieces and soaked in water 600 grams | 1 pound, 5 ounces Spanish mackerel or stingray, cleaned and cut into 2.5-cm | 1-inch thick pieces CHEF’S NOTE: Use only the lower portion of the lemongrass, about 10–15 cm / 4–6 inch from the base up to the purple ring. Beyond that, it is no longer fragrant. If you prefer a more sourish gravy, double the amount of tamarind pulp.

FINELY GROUND PASTE

18 shallots, peeled 3 cloves garlic, peeled 5 candlenuts 5 cm | 2 inches fresh turmeric, peeled 2 stalks lemongrass, sliced 2 teaspoons crushed dried shrimp paste 1 /2 teaspoon ground white pepper or 15 white peppercorns 2.5 cm | 1 inch galangal, peeled

1.

Heat the cooking oil and fry the finely ground paste until fragrant. Add the tamarind juice. Bring to a boil.

2.

Add the salt and seasoning powder. Simmer for 3 minutes. Add eggplants and cook for 4 minutes. Add fish and cook for another 8 minutes.

3.

Serve with spicy shrimp paste (sambal belacan). (See page 122.)

You can garnish this dish with spring onions and sliced red chilli, if desired.

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STIR-FRIED CURRIED CLAMS Stir-fried Dish | 20-minute Preparation | 10-minute Cooking | Serves 4 60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup cooking oil 2 sprigs curry leaves 2 stalks lemongrass, cut into 7.5-cm | 3-inch lengths and lightly bruised 500 grams | 1 pound, 11/2 ounces clams, soaked in salted water for an hour and thoroughly cleaned 1 / 4 teaspoon salt 1 / 2 teaspoon sugar 1 / 8 teaspoon ground white pepper 1 teaspoon light soy sauce

CURRY PASTE (MIXED)

4 shallots, peeled and finely pounded 3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely pounded 11/2 tablespoons fish curry powder GARNISH

5 red bird’s eye chillies, chopped 2 spring onions (scallions), chopped

1.

Heat the cooking oil and fry curry leaves, curry paste and lemongrass until fragrant.

2.

Add the clams. Season with salt, sugar, pepper and soy sauce. Cook until the clams open (approximately 7 minutes). Discard the clams which are still closed.

3.

Garnish with bird’s eye chillies and spring onions and serve hot.

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GERANG ASAM

SPICY AND SOUR FISH CURRY

Gulai Dish | 40-minute Preparation | 35-minute Cooking | Serves 6 125 ml | 4 fl oz | 1/2 cup cooking oil 35 grams | 11/4 ounces tamarind pulp mixed with 750 ml | 24 fl oz | 3 cups water and strained to obtain 750 ml | 24 fl oz | 3 cups tamarind juice 600 grams | 1 pound, 5 ounces Spanish mackerel, cut into 3.5-cm | 11/2-inch thick slices 2 teaspoons anchovy powder (serbuk ikan bilis) 11/ 4 teaspoon sugar 1 1/ 4 teaspoons salt 2 kaffir lime leaves 150 grams | 51/2 ounces young ladies’ fingers (okra), stemmed and halved diagonally CHEF’S NOTE: The kaffir lime leaves can be replaced with polygonum (kesum) leaves or torch ginger flower (bunga kantan). Add to the pot together with the tamarind juice.

FINELY GROUND PASTE

15 dried chillies, soaked in boiling water until softened and drained 175 grams | 54/5 ounces small onions, peeled 3 cloves garlic, peeled 4 candlenuts 1.5 cm | 3/4 inch fresh turmeric, peeled 2 cm | 4/5 inch galangal, peeled 2 stalks lemongrass, sliced 3 /4 teaspoons crushed dried shrimp paste

1.

Heat the cooking oil and fry finely ground paste until fragrant.

2.

Add the tamarind juice and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for 5 minutes.

3.

Increase the heat and add fish, anchovy powder, sugar, salt and kaffir lime leaves. Cook for 4 minutes.

4.

Add ladies’ fingers and cook until tender and the fish is done. Remove from heat and serve.

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DEEP-FRIED SOUR PRAWNS (SHRIMPS) Fried Dish | 20-minute Preparation | 10-minute Cooking | Serves 3–4 800 grams | 13/4 pounds large prawns (shrimps), feelers and legs trimmed 100 grams | 31/2 ounces | 1/2 cup tamarind pulp mixed with 200 ml | 7 fl oz | 3/4 cup water and strained to obtain 200 ml | 7 fl oz | 3/4 cup tamarind juice 1 / 4 teaspoon black soy sauce CHEF’S NOTE: The prawns can be pan-fried if desired. To pan-fry, heat 60 ml / 2 fl oz / 1/4 cup cooking oil and cook the prawns for 3 minutes. Add the marinade and cook until the sauce thickens. The prawns can be substituted with Spanish mackerel, but if cooking fish, omit the sugar in the marinade and do not add the marinade to the pan.

1 teaspoon salt 8 tablespoons sugar, or to taste 300 ml | 10 fl oz | 11/4 cups cooking oil GARNISH

1 spring onion (scallion), cut into thin strips of 5-cm | 2-inch length 1 red chilli, cut into thin strips 1.

Marinate the prawns in tamarind juice, black soy sauce, salt and sugar for 4 hours in the refrigerator.

2.

Remove the prawns from the marinade and set the marinade aside.

3.

Heat the cooking oil until hot and deep-fry the prawns for about 20 seconds. Remove the prawns to a plate.

4.

Drain the oil and add the reserved marinade. Cook until marinade is thick and syrupy.

5.

Add the prawns and stir-fry for a few minutes until well coated with sauce.

6.

Dish out and garnish with spring onion and red chilli before serving.

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BRAISED PEPPERY CHICKEN This chicken dish is delicious with plain rice porridge. Make sure there is extra gravy to add to the porridge. Braised Dish | 30-minute Preparation | 30-minute Cooking | Serves 8 1.5 kilograms | 3 pounds, 41/ 2 ounces chicken, cut into bite-sized pieces 3 tablespoons light soy sauce 3 tablespoons thick soy sauce 1 1/ 2 teaspoons ground white pepper 2 1/ 4 tablespoons sugar 3 tablespoons cooking oil

CHEF’S NOTE: You can also deep-fry the chicken. Substitute chopped garlic with powdered garlic to marinate the chicken and omit the water.

5 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 375 ml | 12 fl oz | 11/2 cups water GARNISH

1 spring onion (scallion), cut into 2.5-cm | 1-inch lengths 1 red chilli, thinly sliced 5 Chinese lettuce leaves 1.

Marinate the chicken in soy sauce, pepper and sugar for an hour.

2.

Heat the cooking oil and sauté garlic until fragrant. Add the marinated chicken and fry for 3 minutes.

3.

Stir in the water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 20 minutes until the chicken is cooked and the gravy thickens.

4.

Garnish with spring onion, red chilli and Chinese lettuce.

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SAMBAL CENCALUK CHILLIED PRESERVED SHRIMPS Sambal Dish | 5-minute Preparation | Serves 4 40 grams | 11/2 ounces | 1/4 cup preserved shrimps (cencaluk)* 1 red chilli, seeded and sliced * Preserved shrimps (cencaluk) are made from a very small and fine variety of shrimps with long feelers (udang geragau). These shrimps are seasonal and found in the Straits of Melaka. To preserve them, the shrimps are mixed with an equal proportion of cooled cooked rice and salt and left to ferment for a few days.

5 shallots, peeled and sliced /4–1 tablespoon kalamansi juice

3

1.

Put the preserved shrimps in a small bowl. Add chilli and shallots and mix lightly.

2.

Season with the kalamansi juice.

3.

Serve immediately with rice and fried fish.

Preserved shrimps are eaten with rice as a relish (as with this recipe). Some people have also been known to put in ice cubes to reduce the saltiness. Preserved shrimps can be used in other dishes as well. You can use them in omelettes or steam them with chicken for a spicy dish. There are many versatile and mouth-watering ways to use preserved shrimps.

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TITIK PAPAYA

PAPAYA IN PEPPERY SOUP

Soup Dish | 30-minute Preparation | 15-minute Cooking | Serves 7 600 grams | 1 pound, 5 ounces almost- ripe papaya, peeled, seeded, cut lengthways into 8 pieces and sliced into 0.5-cm | 1 /4-inch thick pieces 1.5 litres | 48 fl oz | 6 cups water 1 young turmeric leaf 300 grams | 101/2 ounces small prawns (shrimps), shelled and deveined 13/ 4 teaspoons salt 3 tablespoons sugar 1 / 8 teaspoon seasoning powder

FINELY GROUND PASTE

2 red chillies 8 shallots, peeled 6 candlenuts 15 white peppercorns or 1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper 1 1 /2 teaspoons crushed dried shrimp paste

CHEF’S NOTE: An almost-ripe papaya has a slightly green skin but firm flesh.

1.

Combine the papaya, finely ground paste and water in a pot and bring to a boil. Simmer for 7 minutes. Add the turmeric leaf and continue to simmer for 1 minute.

Chilli can be omitted, if desired.

2.

Add the prawns, salt, sugar and seasoning powder. Cook for 3 minutes until prawns are done and papaya is tender.

3.

Serve hot with spicy shrimp paste (sambal belacan). (Recipe on page 122.)

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IKAN KUKUS ASAM

STEAMED SPICY , SWEET AND SOUR FISH

Steamed Dish | 40-minute Preparation | 25–30-minute Cooking | Serves 6 1 (600 grams | 1 pound, 5 ounces) red snapper, sea bass or white pomfret, gutted, cleaned and rubbed with salt 125 ml | 4 fl oz | 1/2 cup cooking oil 60 grams | 2 ounces | 1/ 4 cup tamarind pulp, mixed with 180 ml | 6 fl oz | 3 /4 cup water and strained to obtain 180 ml | 6 fl oz | 3/4 cup tamarind juice 1 1 / 2 teaspoons anchovy stock granules

Salt, to taste 31/2 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon light soy sauce 1 teaspoon cornflour (cornstarch), blended with 3/4 tablespoon water 1 stalk polygonum (kesum) leaves + extra for garnishing 1 tablespoon thinly sliced torch ginger bud (bunga kantan) + extra for garnishing

FINELY GROUND PASTE

20 dried chillies, soaked in boiling water for 30 minutes and drained 20 shallots (200 grams | 7 ounces), peeled 2 cloves garlic, peeled 6 candlenuts 2 cm | 3/4 inch fresh turmeric, peeled 11/2 cm | 2/3 inch galangal, peeled 2 stalks lemongrass, sliced 1 teaspoon crushed dried shrimp paste

1.

Grease a heatproof serving plate and place the fish on it.

2.

Heat the cooking oil and fry the finely ground paste until fragrant. Add the tamarind juice. Season with salt, sugar and soy sauce. Thicken with cornflour mixture. Add the polygonum leaves and torch ginger bud. Pour mixture over the fish.

3.

Steam the fish over rapidly boiling water for 15–20 minutes (depending on thickness of fish).

4.

Garnish with the extra polygonum leaves and torch ginger bud and serve immediately.

KERABU KUBIS

CABBAGE SALAD

Vegetable Dish | 40-minute Preparation | 20-minute Cooking | Serves 4–5 125 ml | 4 fl oz | 1/2 cup coconut cream, extracted, using muslin cloth, from 350 grams | 121/2 ounces | 31/2 cups grated coconut 200 grams | 7 ounces small prawns (shrimps), shelled and deveined

40 grams | 11/2 ounces | 1/4 cup spicy shrimp paste (sambal belacan) (see page 122) 60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup lime juice, or to taste 1 /4 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons sugar

10 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced 4 kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced + extra for garnishing 1 /2 torch ginger bud (bunga kantan), thinly sliced + extra for garnishing 600 grams | 1 pound, 5 ounces cabbage, thinly sliced and steamed for 4 minutes until soft

1.

Bring the coconut cream to a boil over a low heat, stirring occasionally. Add prawns and cook for 2 minutes until prawns are done. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.

2.

Add the spicy shrimp paste, lime juice, salt, sugar, shallots, kaffir lime leaves and torch ginger bud. Add cabbage and toss well.

3.

Garnish with the extra kaffir lime leaves and torch ginger bud and serve immediately with rice.

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From top: Kerabu Kubis (Cabbage Salad), Ikan Kukus Asam (Steamed Spicy, Sweet and Sour Fish).

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NYONYA FRIED RICE This was one of the family favourites we would prepare for a picnic by the sea (Klebang beach). We would cook pots and pots of fried rice. After a round of games like ‘catching’ and ‘ hantu galah ’ on the beach, the fried rice tasted absolutely out of this world and we would polish it off in record time! Those were wonderful childhood years and I have always equated food with happiness. Rice Dish | 30-minute Preparation | 10-minute Cooking | Serves 5 175 ml | 6 fl oz | 3/4 cup cooking oil 3 / 4 tablespoon light soy sauce 1 teaspoon salt 200 grams | 7 ounces small prawns (shrimps), shelled and deveined 1 kilogram | 2 pounds, 3 ounces | 8 cups cooked rice, fluffed and cooled 2 grade A (60 grams | 2 ounces each) eggs CHEF’S NOTE: Using a non-stick pan will prevent rice from sticking to the pan. If you do, use 100 ml / 31/2 fl oz / 1/3 cup oil for sautéing the paste.

FINELY POUNDED PASTE

GARNISH

7 red chillies, seeded 10 shallots, peeled 3 cloves garlic, peeled 1 tablespoon crushed dried shrimp paste 45 grams | 11/2 ounces | 1/2 cup dried prawns (shrimps), soaked in water for 5 minutes and drained

2 spring onions (scallions), chopped 2 red chillies, seeded and cut into thin strips 2 tablespoons crisp-fried shallots (see page 122) omelette, made from 2 grade A (60 grams | 2 ounces each) beaten eggs, cut into thin strips

1.

Heat 150 ml / 5 fl oz / 5/8 cup cooking oil and sauté finely pounded paste. Season with soy sauce and salt. Add the prawns (shrimps) and fry until they change colour.

2.

Add the cooked rice and mix well. Push rice to the sides of the wok. Heat the remaining oil in the centre of wok, scramble the eggs and then mix thoroughly with the rice.

3.

Garnish with spring onions, chillies, crisp-fried shallots and omelette. Serve hot.

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DEVIL CURRY This Nyonya version is very different from the Portuguese version which does not use cabbage. Curry Dish | 40-minute Preparation | 30-minute Cooking | Serves 7 13 tablespoons cooking oil 1 1/ 2 teaspoons ground mustard, blended with 1 tablespoon water 1.2 kilograms | 2 pounds, 10 ounces chicken, cut into serving pieces 1 litre | 32 fl oz | 4 cups water 4 potatoes, peeled and quartered 2 onions, peeled and quartered 125 grams | 41/2 ounces cabbage, cut into big pieces 3 red chillies, cut into 1.5-cm | 3 /4-inch thick pieces 2 tablespoons light soy sauce 21/ 2 tablespoons vinegar 2 1/ 2 teaspoons salt 1 / 2 tablespoon sugar 1 1/ 4 teaspoons anchovy stock granules

FINELY GROUND PASTE

30 dried chillies, soaked in water and drained 40 shallots, peeled 4 cloves garlic, peeled 6 candlenuts 2.5 cm | 1 inch fresh turmeric, peeled 2.5 cm | 1 inch galangal, peeled 4 stalks lemongrass, sliced 2 teaspoons crushed dried shrimp paste GARNISH

2 tablespoons crisp-fried shallots (see page 122) 1 tablespoon crisp-fried chopped garlic (see page 122)

CHEF’S NOTE: If you like crunchy onions, stir-fry the onions in 60 ml / 2 fl oz / 1/4 cup hot cooking oil. Drain and set aside. When the cabbage is almost soft, add the onions.

1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Heat the cooking oil and fry the finely ground paste until fragrant. Add mustard paste and fry for a minute.

3.

Add the chicken and stir. Add water, stir and bring to a boil.

The Nyonyas use a lot of oil to fry pounded ingredients until fragrant. When the dish is cooked, you can skim off the oil.

4.

Add potatoes and simmer for 25 minutes until the chicken and potatoes are cooked. If potatoes cook before the chicken, take them out and return them to the pot when the chicken is tender.

5.

Add onions, cabbage, chillies, soy sauce and vinegar. Season well with salt, sugar and anchovy stock granules. Cook until cabbage is soft.

6.

Garnish with crisp-fried shallots and garlic before serving.

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ACAR AWAK

VEGETABLE PICKLE WITH SESAME AND PEANUTS , PENANG - STYLE

Vegetable Dish | 60-minute Preparation | 25-minute Cooking | Serves 8–10 200 grams | 7 ounces turnip, peeled and cut into 0.3-cm | 1/8-inch wide strips of 3-cm | 11/2-inch length 225 grams | 8 ounces cucumber, seeded and cut into 0.3-cm | 1/8-inch wide strips of 3-cm | 11/2-inch length 185 grams | 61/2 ounces carrot, peeled and cut into 0.3-cm | 1/8-inch wide strips of 3-cm | 11/2-inch length 1.25 litres | 40 fl oz | 5 cups water 375 ml | 12 fl oz | 11/2 cups vinegar 350 grams | 121/2 ounces cabbage, cut into small pieces 200 grams | 7 ounces cauliflower florets CHEF’S NOTE: When blanching the vegetables, make sure the water comes to a boil again before adding the next vegetable. Dried prawns (shrimps) can be omitted and vinegar can be added to taste, if desired.

10 long beans, cut into 3-cm | 11/2-inch lengths 15 French beans, stringed and cut into 3-cm | 11/2-inch lengths 1 green chilli, halved lengthways and seeded 1 red chilli, halved lengthways and seeded 225 ml | 8 fl oz | 1 cup cooking oil 70 grams | 21/2 ounces | 5/8 cup dried prawns (shrimps), soaked in water, drained and finely ground 3 2 /4 teaspoons salt 175 grams | 6 ounces | 3/4 cup sugar

150 grams | 51/2 ounces | 11/4 cups peanuts, roasted and coarsely pounded 3 3 /4 tablespoons sesame seeds, roasted FINELY GROUND PASTE

20 dried chillies, soaked in water and drained 20 shallots, peeled 3 cloves garlic, peeled 3.5 cm | 11/2 inches fresh turmeric, peeled 2 teaspoons crushed dried shrimp paste, roasted

1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Bring water to a boil and add 300 ml / 10 fl oz /11/4 cups vinegar. Blanch separately: turnip for 1 minute, cucumber for 45 seconds, carrots for 3 minutes, cabbage for half a minute, cauliflower for a minute, long beans for a minute, French beans for a minute, and chillies for 15 seconds. Drain and set aside to cool.

3.

Heat the cooking oil and sauté dried prawns until fragrant. Remove and drain.

4.

In the same oil, sauté the finely ground paste until fragrant. Add the dried prawns. Season with salt, sugar and the remaining vinegar. Bring to a boil and switch off the heat.

5.

Add blanched vegetables and half of the peanuts and sesame seeds. Stir well and leave to cool.

6.

When thoroughly cool, stir in the remaining peanuts and sesame seeds. Put in airtight container and store in the refrigerator.

IKAN PINANG

FISH IN SPICY TAMARIND GRAVY

Gulai Dish | 25-minute Preparation | 20-minute Cooking | Serves 5 2 stalks lemongrass, bruised 3 / 4 teaspoon salt 1 / 2–3/4 tablespoon sugar 80 grams | 23/4 ounces | 3/8 cup tamarind pulp mixed with 900 ml | 30 fl oz | 31/2 cups water and strained to obtain 900 ml | 30 fl oz | 31/2 cups tamarind juice CHEF’S NOTE: Chub mackerel can be substituted with 500 grams / 1 pound, 11/2 ounces wolf herring (ikan parang), cut into big pieces.

6 small chub mackerel (ikan kembung), cleaned and gutted 2 red chillies, slit up three-quarter length 2 green chillies, slit up three-quarter length 1 sprig sweet basil (selasih) leaves, stalk removed

FINELY GROUND PASTE

2 red chillies 10 shallots, peeled 11/2 teaspoons crushed dried shrimp paste

1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Mix the finely ground paste, lemongrass, salt and sugar with the tamarind juice and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes.

3.

Increase the heat, add the fish and simmer for 5 more minutes before adding chillies to cook for another 3 minutes.

4.

Garnish with sweet basil leaves and serve hot. 34

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From top: Acar Awak (Vegetable Pickle with Sesame and Peanuts, Penang–style), Ikan Pinang (Fish in Spicy Tamarind Gravy).

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AYAM OH

CHICKEN IN PRESERVED SOY BEAN PASTE GRAVY

Soup Dish | 25-minute Preparation | 30-minute Cooking | Serves 8 3 tablespoons cooking oil 8 cloves garlic, peeled and pounded 5 cm | 2 inches ginger, peeled and thinly sliced

CHEF’S NOTE: If potatoes are soft before chicken is tender, take them out and return them to the pot before adding the seasoning.

3 tablespoons preserved soy bean paste (tau cheong) 1 kilogram | 2 pounds, 3 ounces chicken, cut into bite-sized pieces 1.5 litres | 48 fl oz | 6 cups water

500 grams | 1 pound, 11/2 ounces potatoes, peeled and quartered 2 1/2 tablespoons light soy sauce 3 /4 teaspoon thick soy sauce 1 /2 teaspoon salt

1.

Heat the cooking oil and sauté garlic and ginger until fragrant. Add the preserved soy bean paste and fry over medium heat until oil surfaces.

2.

Add the chicken and stir-fry for 3 minutes.

3.

Stir in water and bring to a boil. Add potatoes and simmer for 15–20 minutes or until potatoes are soft and chicken is tender. Season with light and thick soy sauce and salt. Skim off oil.

4.

Serve hot with rice.

OTAK-OTAK PANGGANG

GRILLED SPICY FISH PASTE

This is a sweet, spicy and rich grilled fish paste. Grilled Dish | 90-minute Preparation | 30-minute Cooking | Serves 6 350 grams | 121/2 ounces fish paste (see page 124) 3 / 4 teaspoon salt 2 1/ 4 tablespoons sugar 1 / 4 teaspoon seasoning powder 1 young turmeric leaf, thinly sliced 3 kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced 30 palm (nipah) leaves, cut into 22-cm | 183/4-inch lengths

CHEF’S NOTE: Use galangal that is not too young or too mature. Very young galangal does not have the right flavour and a very mature one is too fibrous. You can use banana leaves instead of palm (nipah) leaves. Cut the leaves into 20-cm / 8-inch squares, scald the pieces and wipe dry before use. Grill for 10 minutes if you use banana leaves to wrap the fish mixture.

COCONUT MIXTURE (BLENDED)

FINELY GROUND PASTE

2 tablespoons roasted, grated coconut, finely ground 33/4 tablespoons grated, peeled coconut, finely ground 3 tablespoons coconut cream, extracted, using muslin cloth, from 125 grams | 41/2 ounces | 11/4 cups grated semi-mature coconut

8 dried chillies, soaked in water and drained 1 red chilli 9 shallots, peeled 2 cloves garlic, peeled 4 candlenuts 1 cm | 1/2 inch fresh turmeric, peeled 1 cm | 1/2 inch galangal, peeled 1 stalk lemongrass, sliced 1 teaspoon crushed dried shrimp paste, roasted

1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Put aside 3 tablespoons of fish paste for Step 3. With wet hands, divide the remaining fish paste into 10 equal portions. Flatten each portion into a 7.5-cm / 3-inch square. Place on a greased tray.

3.

Combine the coconut mixture, finely ground paste, reserved fish paste, salt, sugar, seasoning powder, turmeric and lime leaves. Divide into 10 equal portions.

4.

Join 3 pieces of palm leaves together by overlapping them slightly. Spread half of one portion of coconut mixture on it. Place a square of fish paste on it. Spread remaining half portion of coconut mixture to cover the fish square. Fold the leaves over the fish mixture and secure both ends with toothpicks. Repeat the process for each fish paste portion.

5.

Cook the wrapped fish paste on a charcoal or electric grill for about 10–15 minutes or until the fish paste is cooked.

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From top: Otak-otak Panggang (Grilled Spicy Fish Paste), Ayam Oh (Chicken in Preserved Soy Bean Paste Gravy).

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CRISPY ANCHOVIES WITH KALAMANSI JUICE This is a very simple but tasty appetiser. Fried Dish | 10-minute Preparation | 5-minute Cooking | Serves 4 175 ml | 6 fl oz | 3/4 cup cooking oil 100 grams | 31/2 ounces medium dried anchovies, cleaned weight

CHEF’S NOTE: Wash the anchovies and pat dry just before frying to keep them crisp.

2 green chillies, sliced 0.3-cm | 1 /8-inch thick diagonally 2 onions, peeled, halved and sliced 2–3 tablespoons kalamansi juice 1.

Heat the cooking oil and fry the anchovies until crisp. Drain.

2.

Mix the fried anchovies with the rest of the ingredients.

3.

Serve immediately.

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UDANG MASAK LEMAK

PRAWNS ( SHRIMPS ) IN COCONUT GRAVY

Gulai Dish | 25-minute Preparation | 25-minute Cooking | Serves 6 400 grams | 141/2 ounces | 4 cups grated coconut 780 ml | 25 fl oz | 31/8 cups water 150 ml | 5 fl oz | 5/8 cup cooking oil 1 torch ginger bud (bunga kantan), halved lengthways + extra for garnishing 600 grams | 1 pound, 5 ounces king prawns (jumbo shrimps), feelers and legs trimmed 3 medium tomatoes, quartered 2 3/ 4 teaspoons salt 1 / 2 teaspoon sugar 1 sprig mint leaves CHEF’S NOTE: Bilimbi (belimbing buluh) gives this dish a tangy flavour and can be used as a substitute for tomatoes.

FINELY GROUND PASTE

20 dried chillies, soaked in water and drained 20 shallots, peeled 3 cloves garlic, peeled 3 candlenuts 3 cm | 11/2 inches mature fresh turmeric, peeled 1 cm | 1/2 inch galangal, peeled 2 stalks lemongrass, sliced 2 teaspoons crushed dried shrimp paste

1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Combine the grated coconut with 180 ml / 6 fl oz / 3/4 cup water and squeeze out 180 ml / 6 fl oz / 3/4 cup thick coconut milk. Set the thick milk aside.

3.

Add remaining water to the grated coconut and squeeze out 600 ml / 20 fl oz / 21/2 cups thin coconut milk. Set the thin milk aside.

4.

Heat the cooking oil and fry finely ground paste until fragrant. Stir in thin coconut milk and torch ginger bud. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for 3 minutes, stirring all the time to prevent curdling.

5.

Add the prawns and cook for 2 minutes. Pour in thick coconut milk and add tomatoes. Season with salt, and sugar. Bring to a boil.

6.

Garnish with mint leaves and the extra torch ginger bud.

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PACERI TERUNG

EGGPLANT IN SWEET AND SOUR SAUCE

This paceri is a sweet and sour dish. Some prefer the sauce a bit thin while others prefer it thick. Adjust recipe according to personal taste. Vegetable Dish | 45-minute Preparation | 25-minute Cooking | Serves 4–5 600 grams | 1 pound, 5 ounces long eggplants 85 ml | 21/ 2 fl oz | 1/3 cup cooking oil 50 grams | 12/3 ounces | 1/2 cup fish curry powder, blended with 7 tablespoons water 100 grams | 31/2 ounces | 1/2 cup tamarind pulp mixed with 800 ml | 26 fl oz | 31/4 cups water and strained to obtain 800 ml | 26 fl oz | 31/4 cups tamarind juice 250 grams | 9 ounces medium prawns (shrimps), shelled with tails intact and deveined CHEF’S NOTE: This dish is always served with plain rice or Nasi Kembuli (page 44).

2 red chillies, slit lengthways 50 grams | 2 ounces | 1/4 cup sugar 1 tablespoon light soy sauce 1 /2 teaspoon salt 1 /8 teaspoon seasoning powder FINELY GROUND PASTE

12 dried chillies, soaked in water and drained 14 shallots, peeled 2 teaspoons crushed dried shrimp paste

1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Halve the eggplants lengthways and then make a slit three-quarter way up each half. Soak in water to prevent discolouration.

3.

Heat the cooking oil and fry finely ground paste until fragrant. Add the curry paste and fry until aromatic.

4.

Lower the heat, add eggplants and fry for a few minutes. Stir in the tamarind juice. Increase the heat and bring to a boil.

5.

When the eggplants are soft, add prawns, chillies, sugar and light soy sauce. Season with salt and seasoning powder.

6.

Simmer for 2–3 minutes until the prawns are cooked. Remove from the heat.

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NASI KEMBULI

SPICED RICE

Nasi Kembuli is an elaborate feast cooked on auspicious occasions like weddings, birthdays and the Chinese New Year. There are normally eight or nine accompanying dishes. A lot of work is involved, but we always look forward to these occasions, especially weddings, where we would have the opportunity to meet and work with cousins and relatives we do not see often. After the hard work, there would be many happy memories of fun, laughter and old grandmother’s stories to cherish. Rice Dish | 2 1/ 2-hour Preparation | 30-minute Cooking | Serves 6 bones from 3 chickens 750 ml | 24 fl oz | 3 cups water 180 ml | 6 fl oz | 3/4 cup cooking oil 20 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced 15 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced 5 cm | 2 inches ginger, peeled and cut into thin strips 450 grams | 1 pound | 21/4 cups Thai or basmati rice, washed and drained 1 / 8 teaspoon seasoning powder 1 / 2 teaspoon thick soy sauce 1 / 2 teaspoon sugar 1 1/ 4 teaspoons salt CHEF’S NOTE: You can also garnish this rice with fried raisins. Nasi Kembuli is normally served with Fried Spicy Chicken a’la Nyonya (page 66), Deep-fried Sour Prawns (Shrimps) (page 20), Udang Berempah (Spicy Prawns [Shrimps]) (page 46), Chicken Curry (page 8), Paceri Terung (Eggplant in Sweet and Sour Sauce) (page 42), Sambal Timun (Cucumber with Spicy Shrimp Paste) (page 12), Hee Peow Soup (Dried Fish Bladder Soup) (page 54), Tai Bak (Nyonya Cendol) (page 114) and cut pineapple.

SPICE WATER

2.5 cm | 1 inch cinnamon stick 35 grams | 1 ounce | 1/2 cup coriander seeds 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 4 cloves 1 star anise 4 cardamoms 500 ml | 16 fl oz | 2 cups water GARNISH

2 sprigs coriander leaves (cilantro) 2 hard boiled eggs, shelled and quartered

1.

Boil the chicken bones and water until the stock reduces to 500 ml / 16 fl oz / 2 cups. Strain the stock.

2.

Boil all the ingredients for spice water until the liquid reduces to 300 ml / 10 fl oz / 11/4 cups. Strain the liquid.

3.

Heat the cooking oil and fry shallots, garlic and ginger until crisp. Drain and reserve the oil.

4.

Combine the chicken stock, spice water, rice, seasoning powder, soy sauce, sugar and salt in an electric rice cooker and cook until the rice is done.

5.

Add 1/2 tablespoon crisp-fried ingredients and 2 tablespoons of the reserved oil to the rice. Fluff the rice and cover for 10 minutes.

6.

Sprinkle rice with the remaining crisp-fried ingredients. Garnish with coriander leaves and egg before serving.

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STIR-FRIED CHICKEN WITH PRESERVED SOY BEAN PASTE Stir-fried Dish | 30-minute Preparation | 20-minute Cooking | Serves 7 3 tablespoons cooking oil 10 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 10 cm | 4 inches ginger, peeled and cut into thin strips 2 tablespoons preserved soy bean paste (tau cheong) 500 grams | 1 pound, 1 1/2 ounces chicken breast, sliced into 0.5-cm | 1 /4-inch thick pieces CHEF’S NOTE: Pork fillet can be used instead of the chicken. Cut the fillet into 0.6-cm / 1/8-inch thick slices.

300 ml | 10 fl oz | 11/4 cups water 1 /2 tablespoon light soy sauce 3 /4 teaspoon thick soy sauce 1 teaspoon sugar 1 red chilli, cut into thin strips 1 green chilli, cut into thin strips

1.

Heat the cooking oil and fry garlic and ginger until fragrant. Add the preserved soy bean paste and fry until oil surfaces.

2.

Add the chicken and fry until it changes colour. Stir in the water and bring to a boil.

3.

Add the light and thick soy sauce and season with sugar. Cook until the chicken is done. Add chillies and stir for 2 minutes before transferring to a serving dish.

UDANG BEREMPAH

SPICY PRAWNS ( SHRIMPS )

Gulai Dish | 40-minute Preparation | 30-minute Cooking | Serves 6 175 ml | 6 fl oz | 3/4 cup cooking oil 2 stalks lemongrass, bruised 350 ml | 112/3 fl oz | 11/3 cups water 1 tablespoon tamarind pulp mixed with 60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup water and strained to obtain 60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup tamarind juice 300 ml | 10 fl oz | 11/4 cups thick coconut milk, extracted from 300 grams | 101/2 ounces | 3 cups grated coconut and 300 ml | 10 fl oz | 11/4 cups water 2 onions, peeled and cut into wedges 3 medium tomatoes, quartered 3 kaffir lime leaves

500 grams | 1 pound, 11/2 ounces king prawns (jumbo shrimps), feelers trimmed 3 1 /4–2 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons sugar FINELY GROUND PASTE

12 red chillies 12 shallots, peeled 2.5 cm | 1 inch fresh turmeric, peeled 2.5 cm | 1 inch galangal, peeled CURRY PASTE (BLENDED)

60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup water 1 tablespoon powdered fennel 1 /2 tablespoon powdered cumin 2 tablespoons powdered coriander 1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Heat the cooking oil and fry finely ground paste until fragrant. Add the lemongrass and curry paste and fry until aromatic.

3.

Stir in the water and bring to a boil.

4.

Add the tamarind juice, coconut milk, onions, tomatoes and lime leaves.

5.

Bring to a boil again. Add prawns and season well with salt and sugar.

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From top right: Stir-fried Chicken with Preserved Soy Bean Paste, Udang Berempah (Spicy Prawns [Shrimps]).

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MEE SUAH TOW

BIRTHDAY NOODLES

Noodle Dish | 35-minute Preparation | 20-minute Cooking | Serves 5 3 tablespoons cooking oil 7 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 6 dried Chinese mushrooms, soaked in water, drained and thinly sliced 300 grams | 101/2 ounces small prawns (shrimps), shelled and deveined 140 grams | 5 ounces chicken breast, thinly sliced 1 small carrot, peeled and cut into thin strips of 2.5-cm | 1-inch length CHEF’S NOTE: The best dried wheat flour vermicelli (mee suah) is from China. The traditional recipe does not use vegetables but I have included them to add colour and fibre to the dish. You can also use mustard greens and garnish with crisp-fried shallots, coriander leaves (cilantro) and spring onions (scallions), if desired.

750 ml | 24 fl oz | 3 cups chicken stock (see page 122) 2 tablespoons light soy sauce 1 teaspoon sugar 1 /8 teaspoon seasoning powder 200 grams | 7 ounces cabbage, thinly sliced 250 grams | 9 ounces dried wheat flour vermicelli (mee suah) 1 tablespoon cornflour (cornstarch), blended with 2 tablespoons water

1.

Heat the cooking oil. Sauté the garlic until fragrant. Add the mushrooms and prawns and fry for 2 minutes. Add chicken and fry until it changes colour. Add carrot.

2.

Stir in chicken stock and season with soy sauce, sugar and seasoning powder. Bring to a boil. Add cabbage.

3.

Add the vermicelli and stir. Cook for 3–4 minutes or until the vermicelli is soft. Thicken with cornflour mixture. Serve hot.

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CHILLIED PRAWNS (SHRIMPS) WITH PRESERVED SOY BEAN PASTE This is a delicious appetiser eaten with rice. Sambal Dish | 30-minute Preparation | 10-minute Cooking | Serves 7 3 1/ 2 tablespoons cooking oil 8 cloves garlic, peeled and finely ground 60 grams | 2 ounces | 1/ 4 cup preserved soy bean paste (tau cheong) 600 grams | 1 pound, 5 ounces small prawns (shrimps), shelled and deveined CHEF’S NOTE: This dish should be salty enough from the preserved soy bean paste, but salt can be added to taste, if desired.

85 ml | 21/2 fl oz | 1/3 cup water 300 grams | 101/2 ounces green chillies, sliced 0.3-cm | 1/8-inch thick diagonally 1 /2 teaspoon thick soy sauce (optional) 3 teaspoons sugar

1.

Heat the cooking oil and sauté garlic until fragrant. Add preserved soy bean paste and stir until oil surfaces.

2.

Add the prawns and fry until they change colour. Stir in water.

3.

Add the chillies and thick soy sauce (optional). Season with sugar. Cook for 3–4 minutes only.

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BELIMBING BULUH DENGAN TAU CHEO BILIMBI WITH PRESERVED SOY BEANS

This appetiser is very simple to prepare and very popular! It is sweet, sour and hot. My family would boil pots of rice to go with this dish and fried fish. Just a little portion is enough to whet your appetite. Sambal Dish | 15-minute Preparation | 10–15-minute Cooking | Serves 4 200 grams | 7 ounces bilimbi (belimbing buluh), stemmed and sliced into thin rounds + extra for garnishing

11/2 tablespoons cooking oil 7 cloves garlic, peeled and finely pounded 1 1/4 tablespoons preserved soy beans (tau cheo)

125 ml | 4 fl oz | 1/2 cup water 2 red chillies, sliced 1 /8 teaspoon salt 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

1.

Pound bilimbi lightly and squeeze to remove some juice.

2.

Heat the cooking oil and sauté the garlic until fragrant. Add the preserved soy beans and fry over a medium heat until oil surfaces. Add the bilimbi and fry for 2 minutes. Stir in water.

3.

Bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until the fruit is soft and gravy thickens slightly.

4.

Add the chillies and season with salt and sugar. Cook for a minute.

5.

Garnish with the extra bilimbi before serving.

INCHEE KAY BIN

KAY BIN FRIED CHICKEN

This is a Penang Nyonya dish. Fried Dish | 20-minute Preparation | 30-minute Cooking | Serves 7–9 1.5 kilograms | 3 pounds, 41/ 2 ounces chicken, cleaned weight, cut into large serving pieces 500 ml | 16 fl oz | 2 cups cooking oil

CHEF’S NOTE: The pieces of chicken must not be too small or they will break up during cooking.

CURRY PASTE (BLENDED) 1

SAUCE (MIXED) 1

40 grams | 1 /2 ounces | /2 cup meat curry powder 1 tablespoon powdered chilli 1 tablespoon chicken stock granules 300 ml | 10 fl oz | 11/4 cups thick coconut milk, extracted, using muslin cloth, from 400 grams | 14 ounces | 4 cups grated coconut and 300 ml | 10 fl oz | 11/4 cups water 1 /8 teaspoon salt 3 /4 teaspoon sugar

31/2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 2 red chillies, seeded and finely sliced 2 red bird’s eye chillies, finely sliced 1 teaspoon sugar 1 /2 teaspoon dry mustard 2 teaspoons lime juice GARNISH

6 Chinese lettuce leaves 2 red chillies

1.

Combine chicken with curry paste and marinate for 3 hours in the refrigerator.

2.

Transfer chicken and marinade to a cooking pot and cook over a low heat, stirring occasionally until gravy dries up. Remove from heat and leave to cool.

3.

Heat cooking oil until very hot and deep-fry chicken until sizzling sound fizzles off. Drain.

4.

Before serving, re-heat oil and re-fry chicken to make it crispy.

5.

Arrange chicken pieces on a plate. Garnish with Chinese lettuce and red chillies and serve hot with the sauce.

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From top: Sauce, Inchee Kay Bin (Kay Bin Fried Chicken), Belimbing Buluh dengan Tau Cheo (Bilimbi with Preserved Soy Beans).

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HEE PEOW SOUP

DRIED FISH BLADDER SOUP

This is a soup for ‘aristocrats’, and is the pride of the Babas and Nyonyas. It is only prepared for special occasions. Dried fish bladder ( hee peow ) is sold in the dry foodstuff shops. It is very expensive but tastes excellent in the soup. The carrots are cut into flower or Christmas tree shapes. In the past, we used a knife to carve the carrots into various shapes, but nowadays, there are cutters for almost every shape. Soup Dish | 2 1/ 2-hour Preparation | 2 1/ 2-hour Cooking | Serves 8 FISH ROLLS

SOUP

200 grams | 7 ounces fish paste (see page 124) 3 thin omelettes (each 15 cm | 6 inches in diameter), made from 3 grade A (60 grams | 2 ounces each) beaten eggs

bones from 3 chickens 2.5 litres | 80 fl oz | 10 cups water 40 grams | 11/2 ounces dried fish bladder (hee peow), soaked in hot water for 10 minutes, drained and excess water squeezed out 1 /2 carrot, peeled and sliced 20 fish balls, made from 175 grams | 6 ounces fish paste (see page 124) 350 grams | 121/2 ounces cabbage, cut into big pieces 70 grams | 21/2 ounces cooked chicken meat, sliced 0.5-cm | 1 /4-inch thick 2 teaspoons salt 1 /4 teaspoon ground white pepper

CHICKEN BALLS

150 grams | 51/2 ounces minced (ground) chicken 1 / 4 teaspoon salt 2 3/ 4 teaspoons tapioca flour or cornflour (cornstarch) 1 teaspoon sesame oil 1 / 4 teaspoon white ground pepper 1 1/ 2 tablespoons beaten egg 1 tablespoon cloud fungus (wan yee), soaked in water until expanded, hard centre part discarded and finely chopped 2 1/ 2 tablespoons finely chopped, peeled carrot 2 tablespoons finely chopped, peeled turnip CHEF’S NOTE: To save time, you can prepare the chicken stock beforehand and freeze it. The fish rolls can also be prepared a day earlier.

GARNISH

1 angled loofah (ketola), peeled and cut into 1-cm | 1/2-inch thick pieces, blanched and drained (optional) 1 sprig coriander leaves (cilantro) 3 tablespoons crisp-fried shallots (see page 122) 1.

To make the fish rolls, divide fish paste into 3 portions. Spread one portion evenly on each omelette. Smoothen the paste with a wet butter knife. Roll tightly so that you get a beautiful firm pattern when they are sliced. Steam the rolls for 8 minutes over rapidly boiling water. Set aside to cool. When cool, slice the rolls, 0.5-cm / 1/4-inch thick. Set aside.

2.

To make chicken balls, mix well all the ingredients. With wet hands, shape the mixture into small balls. Arrange on a greased baking tray. Set aside.

3.

To make the soup, boil chicken bones in the water and strain the stock.

4.

Bring the chicken stock to a boil. Add dried fish bladder and chicken balls. Bring to a boil again and add carrot, fish balls, cabbage and chicken meat. Season with salt and pepper and add sliced fish rolls. Switch off the heat.

5.

Garnish with angled loofah (optional), coriander leaves and crisp-fried shallots. Serve hot.

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SAMBAL JANTUNG PISANG

BANANA BLOSSOM WITH CHILLI PASTE

Sambal Dish | 45-minute Preparation | 30-minute Cooking | Serves 4 4 medium banana blossoms (jantung pisang) 300 ml | 10 fl oz | 11/4 cups thick coconut cream, extracted, using muslin cloth, from 700 grams | 11/2 pounds | 7 cups grated coconut 200 grams | 7 ounces small prawns (shrimps), shelled and deveined 40 grams | 1 1/2 ounces | 1/4 cup spicy shrimp paste (sambal belacan) (see page 122)

20 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced 2 red chillies, seeded and sliced 225 grams | 8 ounces bilimbi (belimbing buluh), cleaned weight, cut into thin strips 8 kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon sugar

1.

Strip away the tough purple outer layers of banana blossom until the white core is visible. Halve the blossom and then quarter the halves. Boil these until tender. Squeeze lightly and drain. Cut into bite-sized pieces and arrange on a serving plate.

2.

Bring the coconut cream to a boil over a low heat. Add prawns and cook until prawns change colour. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

3.

Combine the spicy shrimp paste, shallots, chillies, bilimbi, kaffir lime leaves and boiled coconut cream, and mix well. Season with salt and sugar.

4.

Pour the coconut mixture over the cooked banana blossom and serve.

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NASI GORENG CENCALUK

FRIED RICE WITH PRESERVED SHRIMPS

This is another family favourite where extra servings are always requested! Rice Dish | 30-minute Preparation | 10-minute Cooking | Serves 8 90 ml | 3 fl oz | 3/8 cup cooking oil 8 shallots, peeled and sliced 2 stalks lemongrass, thinly sliced 40 grams | 11/2 ounces | 1/4 cup preserved shrimps (cencaluk), juice drained

CHEF’S NOTE: As the preserved shrimps can be very salty, taste before adding salt in this recipe. Cooked rice should be left to cool for several hours or overnight, and fluffed.

1 kilogram | 2 pounds, 3 ounces | 8 cups cooked rice, fluffed and cooled 1 /4 teaspoon seasoning powder 1 /4 teaspoon anchovy stock granules 3 red chillies, thinly sliced, reserve some for garnishing

GARNISH 1

/2 cucumber, seeded and cut into cubes omelette, made from 1 grade A (60 grams | 2 ounces) beaten egg, sliced thinly 3 tablespoons crisp-fried shallots (see page 122) 1 sprig coriander leaves (cilantro)

1.

Heat the cooking oil and sauté shallots until fragrant. Add the lemongrass and stir-fry for 1 minute.

2.

Stir in the preserved shrimps and fry for 10 seconds (not too long as that will dry the preserved shrimps). Toss in the rice quickly over high heat.

3.

Add the seasoning powder, anchovy stock granules and chillies.

4.

Garnish with cucumber, omelette, crisp-fried shallots, coriander leaves and chillies and serve.

FISH CURRY Curry Dish | 60-minute Preparation | 25–30-minute Cooking | Serves 6 180 ml | 6 fl oz | 3/4 cup cooking oil 3 sprigs curry leaves 2.5 cm | 1 inch cinnamon stick 4 cardamoms 40 grams | 1/2 ounce | 1/2 cup fish curry powder, blended with 90 ml | 3 fl oz | 3/8 cup water 600 ml | 20 fl oz | 21/2 cups coconut milk, extracted, using muslin cloth, from 300 grams | 101/2 ounces | 3 cups grated coconut and 600 ml | 20 fl oz | 21/2 cups water 1 tablespoon tamarind pulp mixed with 90 ml | 3 fl oz | 3/8 cup water and strained to obtain 90 ml | 3 fl oz | 3/8 cup tamarind juice

500 grams | 1 pound, 11/2 ounces Spanish mackerel fillets of 1.5-cm | 3 /4-inch thickness 1 tablespoon light soy sauce 1 teaspoon salt 1 /8 teaspoon seasoning powder 8 young ladies’ fingers (okra), stemmed 1 red chilli, halved lengthways and sliced diagonally 1 green chilli, halved lengthways and sliced diagonally

FINELY GROUND PASTE

7 dried chillies, soaked in water and drained 20 shallots, peeled 3 cloves garlic, peeled 3 candlenuts 1 cm | 1/2 inch galangal, peeled 2.5 cm | 1 inch ginger, peeled 3 stalks lemongrass, sliced

1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Heat the cooking oil and fry curry leaves, cinnamon stick, cardamoms and finely ground paste until fragrant.

3.

Add the curry paste and fry until aromatic. Stir in the coconut milk and tamarind juice.

4.

Bring to a boil and add fish. Season with soy sauce, salt and seasoning powder. Stir occasionally to prevent curdling. After cooking for 5 minutes, add ladies’ fingers and chillies. Cook for another 4 minutes until the fish is done.

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From top: Fish Curry, Nasi Goreng Cencaluk (Fried Rice with Preserved Shrimps).

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ROJAK NYONYA

NYONYA SALAD

This salad is normally served with Nyonya Fried Noodles. Vegetable Dish | 30-minute Preparation | Serves 5 2 tablespoons spicy shrimp paste (sambal belacan) (see page 122) 1 / 8 teaspoon salt 2 1/ 2 tablespoons sugar

200 grams | 7 ounces cucumber, seeded and cut into 0.5-cm | 1 /4-inch cubes 200 grams | 7 ounces pineapple, cleaned weight, cut into 1-cm | 1 /2-inch cubes 1.

Season the spicy shrimp paste with salt and sugar.

2.

Add the cucumber and pineapple cubes. Toss well. Serve immediately with Nyonya Fried Noodles (see page 62).

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NYONYA FRIED NOODLES Noodle Dish | 35-minute Preparation | 15-minute Cooking | Serves 4–5 3 tablespoons cooking oil 10 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 1 / 4 tablespoons preserved soy bean paste (tau cheong) 600 ml | 20 fl oz | 2 1/2 cups water 300 grams | 101/2 ounces mustard greens (choy sum), cut into 3-cm | 11/4-inch lengths 400 grams | 14 ounces small prawns (shrimps), shelled and deveined 11/ 2 tablespoons light soy sauce 1 tablespoon thick soy sauce

CHEF’S NOTE: For convenience, you may prepare the gravy beforehand (Step 1). To serve, heat the gravy and continue from Step 2.

1

/8 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons sugar 500 grams | 1 pound, 11/2 ounces fresh yellow noodles 400 grams | 14 ounces bean sprouts, tailed GARNISH

2 red chillies omelette, made from 2 grade A (60 grams | 2 ounces each) beaten eggs, cut into thin strips 2 sprigs coriander leaves (cilantro) 3 tablespoons crisp-fried shallots (see page 122) 1.

Heat the cooking oil and sauté garlic until fragrant. Add preserved soy bean paste and fry until oil surfaces. Stir in the water and bring the gravy to a boil.

2.

Add the mustard greens, prawns, light and thick soy sauce. Season with salt and sugar. Add the noodles and cook for 4 minutes.

3.

Add bean sprouts and cook for 21/2 minutes.

4.

Garnish with red chillies, omelette, coriander leaves and crisp-fried shallots and serve immediately with Rojak Nyonya (see page 60).

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LAKSA MELAKA

MELAKA - STYLE NOODLES IN SPICY COCONUT MILK

Noodle Dish | 60-minute Preparation | 50-minute Cooking | Serves 9–10 600 grams | 1 pound, 5 ounces | 6 cups grated coconut 3.25 litres | 104 fl oz | 13 cups water 150 grams | 51/2 ounces dried anchovies, cleaned 275 ml | 9 fl oz | 11/8 cups cooking oil 600 grams | 1 pound, 5 ounces small prawns (shrimps), shelled and deveined 4 stalks polygonum (kesum) leaves 20 pieces bean curd puffs (taufu pok), halved 40 fish balls, made from 350 grams | 12 ounces fish paste (see page 124) 2 anchovy stock cubes 3 1/ 2 teaspoons salt 50 grams | 2 ounces | 1/ 4 cup sugar 500 grams | 1 pound, 11/2 ounces bean sprouts, tailed, blanched and rinsed with cold water 450 grams | 1 pound rice vermicelli (bee hoon), soaked in water until soft, blanched in boiling water for a few minutes and drained

FINELY GROUND PASTE

30 dried chillies, soaked in water and drained 50 shallots, peeled 7 cloves garlic, peeled 10 candlenuts 3.5 cm | 11/2 inches turmeric, peeled 4 cm | 13/4 inches galangal, peeled 7 stalks lemongrass, sliced 1 tablespoon crushed dried shrimp paste GARNISH

1.5 kilograms | 3 pounds, 41/2 ounces cockles, cleaned, scalded in boiling water for 3–5 minutes, drained and shelled 2 cucumbers, peeled, seeded and sliced into fine strips 20 red chillies, finely pounded with a pinch of salt 3 red chillies, sliced 3 stalks polygonum (kesum) leaves, finely sliced 1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Combine the grated coconut with 500 ml / 16 fl oz / 2 cups water and squeeze out 500 ml / 16 fl oz / 2 cups thick coconut milk. Set aside the thick milk.

3.

Add 1.25 litres / 40 fl oz / 5 cups water to the grated coconut and squeeze out 1.25 litres / 40 fl oz / 5 cups thin coconut milk. Set aside the thin milk.

4.

Add the anchovies to the remaining water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. When the water has reduced to 1 litre / 32 fl oz / 4 cups, remove from the heat and strain the stock. Set aside.

5.

Heat the cooking oil and fry finely ground paste until fragrant. Add the prawns and fry until they change colour. Stir in anchovy stock and bring to a boil. Add thin coconut milk and polygonum leaves. Simmer for 7 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent curdling.

6.

Add the bean curd puffs, fish balls and thick coconut milk. Season with anchovy stock cubes, salt and sugar. Simmer for 5 minutes.

7.

Arrange the rice vermicelli on a platter and the garnish on separate serving plates.

8.

For each serving: Put some bean sprouts and rice vermicelli in a bowl. Add garnish. Ladle some piping hot gravy into the bowl to cover all ingredients and serve hot.

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FRIED SPICY CHICKEN A’LA NYONYA Fried Dish | 30-minute Preparation | 30-minute Cooking | Serves 4 1 kilogram | 2 pounds, 3 ounces chicken drumsticks, scored 6 stalks lemongrass, lightly bruised 3 sprigs curry leaves 10 shallots, peeled and lightly bruised 3 cloves garlic, peeled and lightly bruised 1 / 2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon sugar 750 ml | 24 fl oz | 3 cups cooking oil for deep-frying

MARINADE (MIXED)

2 1 2 1 1

tablespoons light soy sauce tablespoon meat curry powder teaspoons powdered chilli teaspoon powdered turmeric teaspoon chicken stock granules

1.

Combine the chicken drumsticks with the marinade, lemongrass, curry leaves, shallots and garlic. Season with salt and sugar. Set aside for 4–5 hours.

2.

Heat the cooking oil and deep-fry the marinated chicken until golden brown. Drain and serve hot.

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SAMBAL BELIMBING BULUH

BILIMBI IN CHILLI GRAVY

Sambal Dish | 40-minute Preparation | 15–20-minute Cooking | Serves 6 120 ml | 4 fl oz | 1/2 cup thick coconut cream, extracted, using muslin cloth, from 300 grams | 10 1/ 2 ounces | 3 cups grated coconut 150 ml | 5 fl oz | 5/8 cup cooking oil 7 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced 2 stalks lemongrass, thinly sliced 500 grams | 1 pound, 11/2 ounces small prawns (shrimps), shelled and deveined 400 grams | 14 ounces bilimbi (belimbing buluh), sliced 0.5-cm | 1 /4-inch thick, lightly mashed and drained 375 ml | 12 fl oz | 11/2 cups water

1 1/2 teaspoons salt 2 1/4 tablespoons sugar 1 red chilli, sliced + extra for garnishing FINELY GROUND PASTE

15 dried chillies, soaked in water and drained 17 shallots, peeled 2 cloves garlic, peeled 4 candlenuts 2.5 cm | 1 inch fresh turmeric, peeled 2 stalks lemongrass, sliced 2 teaspoons crushed dried shrimp paste

1.

Boil the coconut cream over a low heat, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and set aside.

2.

Heat the cooking oil and fry shallots and lemongrass until crisp. Remove, drain and put aside half for the garnish.

3.

Add the finely ground paste to the oil and fry until aromatic. Add the prawns, bilimbi and water. Season with salt and sugar. Bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer gently for 5 minutes until slightly thick. Add chillies and remove from the heat.

4.

Top with cooked coconut cream and garnish with the extra sliced chilli, fried shallots and lemongrass just before serving.

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FISH AND EGGPLANTS IN COCONUT GRAVY Gulai Dish | 40-minute Preparation | 25-minute Cooking | Serves 6 150 ml | 5 fl oz | 5/8 cup cooking oil 800 ml | 251/2 fl oz | 31/4 cups coconut milk, extracted, using muslin cloth, from 350 grams | 121/2 ounces | 3 1/2 cups grated coconut and 800 ml | 251/2 fl oz | 31/4 cups water 2 long eggplants, cut into 2.5-cm | 1-inch lengths, quartered then soaked in water and drained before use 500 grams | 1 pound, 11/2 ounces Spanish mackerel, cut into 4 pieces 2 teaspoons salt 1 / 8 teaspoon seasoning powder CHEF’S NOTE: Any meaty fish, such as a black pomfret, is suitable for this dish.

FINELY GROUND PASTE

20 dried chillies, soaked in water and drained 2 red chillies 20 shallots, peeled 4 candlenuts 3.5 cm | 11/2 inches mature fresh turmeric, peeled 1 cm | 1/2 inch galangal, peeled 2 stalks lemongrass, sliced 2 teaspoons crushed dried shrimp paste

1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Heat the cooking oil and fry finely ground paste until fragrant. Stir in the coconut milk and bring to a slow boil, stirring occasionally.

3.

Add the eggplants and cook for 3–4 minutes. Add fish and season with salt and seasoning powder. Simmer for 8–10 minutes until cooked.

4.

Serve hot with rice.

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KERABU BEE HOON

RICE VERMICELLI SALAD

This delicious dish is hot, sour and fragrant. I used to enjoy this salad very much in my teaching days. Our supervisor, who came to school by bus, would bring the dish to school in a basket (together with all her books). It was a kindness we greatly appreciated and we could not wait for recess to tuck into her sumptuous salad. Our food-loving group sure knew how to enjoy food, and we took turns to cook different types of cuisine to share in school. Those were the good old days. Noodle Dish | 60-minute Preparation | 20-minute Cooking | Serves 8 10 shallots, peeled and finely sliced 1 torch ginger bud (bunga kantan), finely sliced (optional) 300 grams | 101/2 ounces bean sprouts, tailed, blanched and rinsed with cold water 400 grams | 14 ounces medium prawns (shrimps), steamed, shelled and deveined 300 grams | 101/2 ounces rice vermicelli (bee hoon), scalded in hot water for 2–3 minutes and drained 30 grams | 1 ounce | 1/4 cup roasted, grated coconut, pounded until fine but not oily (kerisik)

CHEF’S NOTE: Malays make kerisik differently— from roasted, grated coconut that is pounded until fine and oily.

SAMBAL PASTE (MIXED)

80 grams | 23/4 ounces | 1/2 cup spicy shrimp paste (sambal belacan) (see page 122) 75 grams | 21/2 ounces | 5/8 cup dried prawns (shrimps), soaked in water for 4 minutes, scalded in boiling water, drained and finely pounded 60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup light soy sauce 150 ml | 5 fl oz | 5/ 8 cup kalamansi juice 60 grams | 2 ounces | 1/4 cup sugar 1 1/2–13/4 teaspoons salt GARNISH

2 sprigs mint leaves 60 grams | 2 ounces | 1/2 cup roasted peanuts, coarsely pounded 1 red chilli, cut into thin strips 1.

Mix the sambal paste with shallots, torch ginger bud, bean sprouts and prawns.

2.

Toss in the rice vermicelli. Add the coconut.

3.

Garnish with mint leaves, peanuts and chilli. Serve immediately.

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AYAM CENCALUK

CHICKEN WITH PRESERVED SHRIMPS

Stir-fried Dish | 50-minute Preparation | 40-minute Cooking | Serves 6 180 ml | 6 fl oz | 3/4 cup cooking oil 15 shallots, peeled and sliced 7 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced 1 kilogram | 2 pounds, 3 ounces chicken breast, cut into pieces 140 grams | 5 ounces | 7/8 cup preserved shrimps (cencaluk), juice drained 3 kaffir lime leaves 100 grams | 31/2 ounces | 1/2 cup tamarind pulp mixed with 400 ml | 13 fl oz | 12/3 cups water and strained to obtain 400 ml | 13 fl oz | 1 2/3 cups tamarind juice CHEF’S NOTE: Taste the gravy first before adding salt as some brands of preserved shrimps (cencaluk) can be extremely salty.

3 3/4 tablespoons sugar 3 red chillies, halved lengthways, seeded and cut into three pieces 3 green chillies, halved lengthways, seeded and cut into three pieces FINELY GROUND PASTE

17 shallots, peeled 5 cm | 2 inches fresh turmeric, peeled 5 stalks lemongrass, sliced

1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Heat the cooking oil and sauté shallots and garlic until crisp. Drain and set aside.

3.

In the same oil, fry the finely ground paste until aromatic. Add the chicken, preserved shrimps and lime leaves.

4.

Add the tamarind juice. Season with sugar. Cook until the gravy thickens.

5.

Stir in chillies and half of the crisp-fried shallots and garlic.

6.

Sprinkle with the remaining crisp-fried shallots and garlic just before serving.

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AYAM PONGTEH

CHICKEN STEW WITH PRESERVED SOY BEAN PASTE

Ayam Pongteh is always cooked for festive occasions such as the Chinese New Year, birthdays, etc. This dish can be prepared a few days ahead and stored in the freezer as the flavour improves with storage. It makes a delicious breakfast when served with toasted bread. Stewed Dish | 45-minute Preparation | 50-minute Cooking | Serves 6–7 180 ml | 6 fl oz | 3/4 cup cooking oil 30 shallots, peeled and finely pounded 15 cloves garlic, peeled and finely pounded 150 grams | 51/2 ounces | 1/2 cup preserved soy bean paste (tau cheong) 1 kilogram | 2 pounds, 3 ounces chicken, cut into bite-sized pieces

10 dried Chinese mushrooms, soaked in water and stemmed 1 litre | 32 fl oz | 4 cups water 3 large potatoes, peeled and quartered 2 tablespoons light soy sauce 2 teapoons thick soy sauce 50 grams | 12/3 ounces | 1/4 cup sugar GARNISH

1 sprig coriander leaves (cilantro) CHEF’S NOTE: This dish is best served with spicy shrimp paste (sambal belacan) (see page 122). Another traditional way is to have red chillies added to the gravy. Snap the chillies into two or three pieces and stir them into the hot pongteh gravy. Serve with slices of toast and a mug of piping hot, locally-brewed coffee.

1.

Heat the cooking oil and fry pounded shallots and garlic until fragrant. Add the preserved soy bean paste and sauté until oil surfaces.

2.

Add the chicken and mushrooms. Stir-fry until well mixed. Add the water.

3.

Bring to a boil and add potatoes. Season with light and thick soy sauce and sugar. Lower the heat and simmer for 25 minutes until potatoes and chicken are cooked.

4.

Garnish with coriander leaves and serve.

Peeled sugar cane pieces, 8-cm / 3-inch long, can be added, if desired. This will make the stew slightly sweeter. Turnip can also be added if desired. Use 150 grams / 51/2 ounces turnip, peeled, quartered and sliced thickly. The gravy should have a slightly thick consistency. If the amount of shallots, garlic and preserved soy bean paste is insufficient, the gravy will be too thin.

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ITIK TIM

DUCK SOUP WITH SALTED CHINESE MUSTARD

Soup Dish | 60-minute Preparation | 1–1 1/ 2-hour Cooking | Serves 6 350 grams | 121/2 ounces preserved, salted Chinese mustard with more stalks than leaves 3 litres | 96 fl oz | 12 cups water 1 kilogram | 2 pounds, 3 ounces duck, cut into 10 pieces 1 slice dried sour fruit (asam gelugur)

6 sour plums (seasoned asam manis) 2 tomatoes, cut into wedges (optional) 1–2 teaspoons chicken stock granules 1–2 teaspoons sugar 2 red chillies (optional) 1.

Cut preserved, salted Chinese mustard into large pieces and soak in water for 1 hour. Drain and set aside. Cook in boiling water for 10 minutes, then toss and drain.

2.

Bring 1 litre / 32 fl oz / 4 cups water to a boil and immerse the duck for 1 minute. Remove and drain.

3.

Boil the remaining water, add the duck, salted Chinese mustard, dried sour fruit and sour plums. Simmer for 1–11/2 hours until the duck is tender.

Add more water if necessary to adjust the flavour of the soup.

4.

Add the tomatoes (optional) in the last 6 minutes of cooking. If the soup is not sour enough, add more sour plums according to taste.

Sugar is added to balance the sourness of the soup

5.

Add chicken stock granules and sugar.

6.

Just before serving, snap red chillies into two or three pieces and add to soup.

CHEF’S NOTE: You can use chicken instead of duck. This soup should have a sour flavour. Vary the number of sour plums used according to individual taste. Add 2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine after the soup is done for a nice aroma.

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TURNIP IN COCONUT MILK Vegetable Dish | 75-minute Preparation | 45-minute Cooking | Serves 6 150 ml | 5 fl oz | 5/8 cup cooking oil 55 grams | 2 ounces whitebait, heads and entrails removed 750 ml | 24 fl oz | 3 cups water 1 kilogram | 2 pounds, 3 ounces turnip, peeled, quartered and thinly sliced horizontally 500 ml | 16 fl oz | 2 cups coconut milk, extracted from 350 grams | 121/2 ounces | 31/2 cups grated coconut and 500 ml | 16 fl oz | 2 cups water CHEF’S NOTE: As the preserved shrimps can be very salty, taste before adding salt in this recipe. Cooked rice should be left to cool for several hours or overnight, and fluffed.

21/4 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teapoon anchovy stock granules FINELY GROUND PASTE

25 shallots, peeled 3 cloves garlic, peeled 3 candlenuts 3.5 cm | 11/2 inches fresh turmeric, peeled

1.5 cm | 3/4 inch peeled galangal 2 stalks lemongrass, sliced 2 teaspoons crushed dried shrimp paste 1 /4 teaspoon ground white pepper

1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Heat the cooking oil and fry whitebait until crisp. Drain and set aside.

3.

Re-heat oil and fry finely ground paste until fragrant. Add 60 ml / 2 fl oz / 1 /4 cup water and stir.

4.

Add fried whitebait, turnip and remaining water. Cook until turnip is tender and gravy is greatly reduced. If the turnip is still hard, add 250 ml / 8 fl oz / 1 cup water and cook until it is soft. Stir well occasionally to prevent turnip from burning.

5.

Stir in the coconut milk and season with salt, sugar and anchovy stock granules. Bring to a boil before lowering the heat. Simmer gently for 5 minutes and remove from the heat.

6.

Serve with rice and spicy shrimp paste (sambal belacan). (See page 122.)

ACAR IKAN

FISH PICKLE

Fried Dish | 25-minute Preparation | 30-minute Cooking | Serves 6 200 grams | 7 ounces cucumber, seeded and cut into 0.5-cm | 1 /4-inch wide strips of 2.5-cm | 1-inch length 1 green chilli, quartered lengthways, seeded, and halved diagonally 1 red chilli, quartered lengthways, seeded, and halved diagonally 1 litre | 32 fl oz | 4 cups water, blended with 1/4 teaspoon slaked lime (kapur) 1 (400 grams | 14 ounces) black pomfret, gutted and cleaned 1 / 4 teaspoon salt 1 / 2 teaspoon powdered turmeric 250 ml | 8 fl oz | 1 cup cooking oil 3 tablespoons sugar 3 tablespoons white vinegar

90 ml | 3 fl oz | 3/8 cup water 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 1 onion, peeled and cut into six wedges, then layers separated FINELY GROUND PASTE

12 dried chillies, soaked in water and drained

6 4 2 1 1 1

shallots, peeled cloves garlic, peeled tablespoons powdered coriander teaspoon powdered cumin teaspoon powdered fennel cm | 1/2 inch young ginger, peeled

1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Soak the cucumber and chillies in slaked lime water for 20 minutes to give the vegetables the crunch. Rinse and drain.

3.

Score each side of the fish. Rub the fish with salt and turmeric and set aside for a few minutes. Heat the cooking oil and fry the fish until golden brown. Drain and place on a serving plate.

4.

Leave 90 ml / 3 fl oz / 3/8 cup cooking oil in the pan. Fry the finely ground paste until fragrant. Add sugar, vinegar and water. Season with salt and bring to a boil. Add the onion. Cook for 2 minutes and turn off the heat.

5.

Stir in the cucumber and chillies. Pour over the fish and serve immediately.

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Clockwise from top right: Acar Ikan (Fish Pickle), spicy shrimp paste, Turnip in Coconut Milk.

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PONG TAUFU SOUP

FISH AND BEAN CURD BALL SOUP

This unique and delicious soup is a speciality of my elder sister, Koh Kim Lian, who kindly contributed this recipe. Soup Dish | 45-minute Preparation | 45-minute Cooking | Serves 8 FISH AND BEAN CURD BALLS

350 grams | 12 ounces fish paste (see page 124) 200 grams | 7 ounces small prawns (shrimps), shelled, deveined and finely ground 4 pieces (110 grams | 4 ounces each) firm bean curd (tau kwa), finely ground 1 / 2 teaspoon salt CHEF’S NOTE: You can fry the fish and bean curd balls beforehand and freeze them. Other variations include adding an egg to the paste, if desired, and using minced (ground) meat instead of prawns (shrimps). More water can also be added to the soup, if preferred.

3 tablespoons cornflour (cornstarch) 1 tablespoon crisp-fried, crushed garlic 500 ml | 16 fl oz | 2 cups cooking oil SOUP

7 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 /2 tablespoon preserved soy bean paste (tau cheong)

1.8 litres | 58 fl oz | 71/3 cups water 400 grams | 14 ounces turnip, peeled and cut into thin strips 2 teaspoons anchovy stock granules 1 /4 teaspoon salt GARNISH

2 spring onions (scallions), chopped 1 tablespoon crisp-fried chopped garlic (see page 122)

1.

Mix well all the ingredients for fish and bean curd balls, except the cooking oil. With oiled hands, shape the paste into 2.5-cm / 1-inch balls. Place the balls on greased trays.

2.

Heat the cooking oil in a wok and fry the balls until golden brown. Drain and set aside.

3.

Leave 21/2 tablespoons cooking oil in the wok. Sauté the garlic until fragrant, then add preserved soy bean paste and fry until aromatic. Stir in the water and bring to a boil.

4.

Add the turnip and simmer until soft. Add the fried fish and bean curd balls. Season with anchovy stock granules and salt. Simmer for 5 more minutes.

5.

Garnish with spring onions and crisp-fried chopped garlic. Serve hot with spicy shrimp paste (sambal belacan). (See page 122.)

IKAN MASIN MASAK AIR MASAM FRIED SALTED FISH IN TAMARIND GRAVY

Fried Dish | 35-minute Preparation | 10–15-minute Cooking | Serves 3 125 ml | 4 fl oz | 1/2 cup cooking oil 140 grams | 5 ounces dried, salted threadfin (ikan kurau), washed just before frying 2 dried chillies, washed, pat dried and thickly sliced

CHEF’S NOTE: Thinly sliced salted threadfin is sold in the supermarket. Any other salted fish can also be used for this dish. You can add a garnish of tomato and cucumber slices.

5 shallots, peeled and sliced 3 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced 1 /2 teaspoon shredded, peeled ginger

45 grams | 11/2 ounces | 1/ 4 cup tamarind pulp mixed with 300 ml | 10 fl oz | 11/4 cups water and strained to obtain 300 ml | 10 fl oz | 1 1/4 cups tamarind juice 1 1 /2 tablespoons sugar 1 /2 teaspoon ground white pepper

1.

Heat the cooking oil and fry the fish until crisp. Drain and set aside on a serving plate.

2.

Leave 3 tablespoons cooking oil in the wok. Fry dried chillies, shallots, garlic and ginger until fragrant.

3.

Stir in the tamarind juice and bring to a boil. Add sugar and pepper and simmer until the gravy thickens.

4.

Pour over the fried fish.

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Clockwise from top right: Pong Taufu Soup (Fish and Bean Curd Ball Soup), Ikan Masin Masak Air Asam (Fried Salted Fish in Tamarind Gravy), Spicy Shrimp Paste (Sambal Belacan).

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AYAM BUAH KELUAK

CHICKEN IN BLACK NUT GRAVY

Gulai Dish | 60-minute Preparation | 40-minute Cooking | Serves 10 20 Indonesian black nuts (buah keluak), pre-soaked in cold water for 2 weeks, with daily change of water 150 ml | 5 fl oz | 5/8 cup cooking oil 1.5 kilograms | 3 pounds, 41/ 2 ounces chicken, cut into bite-sized pieces 3 tablespoons tamarind pulp mixed with 1 litre | 32 fl oz | 4 cups water and strained to obtain 1 litre | 32 fl oz | 4 cups tamarind juice 2 1/ 4 teaspoons salt 1 1/ 4 tablespoons sugar

FINELY GROUND PASTE

CHEF’S NOTE: Always soak a few extra black nuts (buah keluak) in case there are some bad ones to be discarded. Good nuts are heavy and do not rattle when shaken.

1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Scrub the black nuts and make an opening at the top. Discard the ones with an offensive odour.

3.

Heat the cooking oil and fry finely ground paste until fragrant. Add chicken and fry until the meat changes colour.

4.

Add the black nuts and tamarind juice. Bring to a boil.

5.

Lower the heat and simmer until chicken is tender. Season well with salt and sugar.

As a variation, after scrubbing the nuts, remove the kernels with a fork and pound them into a fine paste. Mix paste with minced prawns (shrimps) or chicken, salt and sugar. Stuff mixture back into the nut shells.

25 dried chillies, soaked in water and drained 25 shallots, peeled 6 cloves garlic, peeled 5 candlenuts 2.5 cm | 1 inch fresh turmeric, peeled 5 cm | 2 inches galangal, peeled 7 stalks lemongrass, sliced 1 teaspoon crushed dried shrimp paste

Skim off oil if it is too oily after cooking.

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FRIED CHAP CHYE Vegetable Dish | 45-minute Preparation | 25-minute Cooking | Serves 4 33/ 4 tablespoons cooking oil 7 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 2 tablespoons preserved soy bean paste (tau cheong) 300 grams | 10 1/2 ounces medium prawns (shrimps), shelled and deveined 30 grams | 1 ounce lily buds (kim chiam), hard tips cut off, knotted and soaked 1 2 / 2 tablespoons cloud ear fungus (wan yee), soaked in water until soft and cut away rough patch at the base 55 grams | 2 ounces bean curd skin (fu chok), soaked in water and cut into 7.5-cm | 3-inch lengths

350 ml | 112/3 fl oz | 11/3 cups water 500 grams | 1 pound, 11/ 2 ounces cabbage, cut into small pieces 30 grams | 1 ounce transparent vermicelli (tang hoon), soaked in water until soft and cut into 7.5-cm | 3-inch lengths 2 spring onions (scallions) for garnish, sliced SEASONING

1 tablespoon light soy sauce 1 /4 teaspoon thick soy sauce 1 /4 teaspoon salt 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

1.

Heat the cooking oil and lightly brown the garlic. Add preserved soy bean paste and fry until fragrant.

2.

Put in the prawns, lily buds, cloud ear fungus and bean curd skin and fry for another 2 minutes. Stir in water and bring to a boil. Cook until bean curd skin is soft.

3.

Add the cabbage, transparent vermicelli and seasoning. When cabbage is cooked, remove from the heat.

4.

Garnish with spring onions and serve with spicy shrimp paste (sambal belacan). (See page 122.)

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MEE SIAM

SPICY FRIED VERMICELLI IN TANGY SAUCE

Noodle Dish | 60-minute Preparation | 35-minute Cooking | Serves 7 200 ml | 7 fl oz | 3/4 cup cooking oil 90 ml | 3 fl oz | 3/8 cup coconut cream, extracted, using muslin cloth, from 150 grams | 51/2 ounces | 11/2 cups grated coconut 400 grams | 14 ounces medium prawns (shrimps), shelled and deveined 3 pieces (110 grams | 4 ounces each) firm bean curd (tau kwa), cut into long thin strips and deep-fried 125 ml | 4 fl oz | 1/2 cup water 60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup light soy sauce 4 teaspoons anchovy stock granules 1 1/ 2 teaspoons salt 4 teaspoons sugar 400 grams | 14 ounces rice vermicelli (bee hoon), soaked in water until soft, and drained 30 grams | 1 ounce Chinese chives (kucai), cut into 0.5-cm | 1/2-inch lengths 400 grams | 14 ounces bean sprouts, tailed CHEF’S NOTE: To test if the rice vermicelli is soft after soaking in water, lift it up with a forefinger. If it does not slip off, it can be removed from the water.

FINELY GROUND PASTE

GARNISH

25 dried chillies, soaked in water and drained 16 shallots, peeled 1 tablespoon crushed dried shrimp paste 4 candlenuts

3 hard-boiled eggs, shelled and quartered 1 cucumber, seeded and cut into thin strips 2 red chillies, sliced 1 tablespoon thinly sliced Chinese chives (kucai) 6 kalamansi, halved

GRAVY

11/2 tablespoons cooking oil 4 teaspoons preserved soy beans (tau cheo) 2 large onions, peeled, halved and thinly sliced 50 grams | 12/3 ounces | 1/4 cup tamarind pulp mixed with 500 ml | 16 fl oz | 2 cups water and strained to obtain 500 ml | 16 fl oz | 2 cups tamarind juice 3 /4 teaspoon salt 60 grams | 2 ounces | 1/4 cup sugar 60 grams | 2 ounces | 1/4 cup roasted, pounded peanuts (groundnuts)

1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Heat the cooking oil in a wok and fry finely ground paste until fragrant. Put aside one-third of fried paste including the oil.

3.

Add coconut cream to wok. Add the prawns and fry for 2 minutes. Add the fried bean curd, water and season well with soy sauce, anchovy stock granules, salt and sugar. Bring to a boil.

4.

Add the rice vermicelli and the chives. Stir until well mixed. Add bean sprouts.

5.

Cook for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

6.

To prepare gravy: Heat cooking oil and fry preserved soy beans until fragrant. Add the reserved fried paste. Stir in the onions and add tamarind juice. Season with salt and sugar. Simmer for 2 minutes and add the peanuts.

7.

To serve, put rice vermicelli in individual bowls, add gravy and top with garnish of hard-boiled eggs, cucumber, red chillies, chives and kalamansi.

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KARI UDANG KAPITAN

CAPTAIN ’S PRAWN ( SHRIMP ) CURRY

Curry Dish | 30-minute Preparation | 25-minute Cooking | Serves 6 500 ml | 16 fl oz | 2 cups cooking oil 500 grams | 1 pound, 11/2 ounces king prawns (jumbo shrimps), feelers trimmed 1 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 600 ml | 20 fl oz | 21/2 cups coconut milk, extracted from 250 grams | 9 ounces | 21/2 cups grated coconut and 600 ml | 20 fl oz | 21/2 cups water 13/ 4 teaspoons salt 1 tablespoon sugar 2 1/ 2 tablespoons kalamansi juice 1 sprig mint leaves

FINELY GROUND PASTE

4 dried chillies, soaked in water and drained 8 red chillies 3 cloves garlic, peeled 3 candlenuts 3.5 cm | 11/2 inches fresh turmeric, peeled 2.5 cm | 1 inch galangal, peeled 2 stalks lemongrass, sliced 1 teaspoon crushed dried shrimp paste

1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Heat the cooking oil in a wok until hot. Add the prawns and fry for 30 seconds. Drain and set aside.

3.

Leave 7 tablespoons oil in the wok. Add onion and sauté for a few minutes.

4.

Add finely ground paste and stir-fry until aromatic.

5.

Return the prawns to the wok. Stir in coconut milk and bring to a boil. Simmer for 2–3 minutes. Season with salt and sugar

6.

Remove from the heat and add kalamansi juice.

7.

Garnish with mint leaves and serve.

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SPICY TAMARIND PRAWNS (SHRIMPS) WITH LONG BEANS Gulai Dish | 40-minute Preparation | 20-minute Cooking | Serves 4 70 grams | 21/2 ounces tamarind pulp mixed with 1 litre | 32 fl oz | 4 cups water and strained to obtain tamarind juice 2 stalks polygonum (kesum) leaves 200 grams | 7 ounces long beans, cut into 2.5-cm | 1-inch lengths 600 grams | 1 pound, 5 ounces large tiger prawns (jumbo shrimps), feelers trimmed 2 red chillies, slit halfway 11/ 4 teaspoons salt 1 1/ 4 tablespoons sugar 1 1/ 2 teaspoons anchovy stock granules

FINELY GROUND PASTE

3 red chillies 250 grams | 9 ounces shallots, peeled 3 cloves garlic, peeled 3.5 cm | 11/2 inch fresh turmeric, peeled 3 stalks lemongrass, sliced 1 teaspoon crushed dried shrimp paste 4 candlenuts

CHEF’S NOTE: It is important to simmer the finely ground paste and tamarind mixture for at least 5 minutes in order to cook it. Otherwise, the gravy will taste raw.

1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Combine the finely ground paste with the tamarind juice. Bring to a boil. Add polygonum leaves. Lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes.

3.

Add the long beans and cook for 4 minutes.

This dish is excellent when served hot with freshly fried Chinese crullers (yau char kway). You can use pineapple in place of long beans but leave out the tamarind juice as pineapple is naturally sour. However, if the pineapple is sweet, use half the amount of tamarind pulp.

4.

Add the prawns and red chilli. Season with salt, sugar and anchovy stock granules.

5.

Bring to a boil over a high heat. When prawns are cooked, remove from the heat. Serve hot with rice.

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SWEET POTATO AND SEA SNAIL CURRY Curry Dish | 60-minute Preparation | 20-minute Cooking | Serves 5 300 grams | 101/2 ounces | 3 cups grated coconut 1 litre | 32 fl oz | 4 cups water 1 kilogram | 2 pounds, 3 ounces sea snails 125 ml | 4 fl oz | 1/2 cup cooking oil 250 grams | 9 ounces orangecoloured sweet potatoes, peeled, cut into small chunks and soaked in water 1 1/ 4 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons sugar

FINELY GROUND PASTE

18 shallots, peeled 3 cloves garlic, peeled 4 candlenuts 2.5 cm | 1 inch fresh turmeric, peeled 2.5 cm | 1 inch galangal, peeled 2 stalks lemongrass, sliced 1 tablespoon powdered coriander 1 teaspoon crushed dried shrimp paste 1 /2 teaspoon ground white pepper 1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Combine the grated coconut with 325 ml / 11 fl oz / 13/8 cups water and squeeze out 325 ml / 11 fl oz / 13/8 cups coconut milk. Set aside.

3.

Wash the sea snails thoroughly. Chop off the pointed tips of the shells.

4.

Heat the cooking oil and fry finely ground paste until fragrant. Add sweet potatoes and stir-fry for 2 minutes.

5.

Stir in the remaining water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until sweet potatoes are soft.

6.

Add the sea snails and cook for 5 minutes.

7.

Add the coconut milk and season with salt and sugar. Bring to a boil and remove from the heat.

8.

Serve with spicy shrimp paste (sambal belacan) (see page 122) and rice.

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JACKFRUIT CURRY Curry Dish | 45-minute Preparation | 30-minute Cooking | Serves 7 750 grams | 1 pound, 93/4 ounces peeled, young jackfruit 125 ml | 4 fl oz | 1/2 cup cooking oil 200 grams | 7 ounces small prawns (shrimps), shelled and deveined 1 litre | 32 fl oz | 4 cups coconut milk, extracted from 450 grams | 1 pound | 41/2 cups grated coconut and 1 litre | 32 fl oz | 4 cups water 1 2 / 2–3 teaspoons salt 2 1/ 4 teaspoons sugar

FINELY GROUND PASTE

14 dried chillies, soaked in water and drained 1 red chilli, seeded 15 shallots, peeled 4 candlenuts 1 cm | 1/2 inch fresh turmeric, peeled 1 cm | 1/2 inch galangal, peeled 2 stalks lemongrass, sliced 1 tablespoon powdered coriander 1 /4 tablespoon crushed dried shrimp paste 1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Cut the jackfruit into thick slices and boil until soft. Drain.

3.

Heat cooking oil and fry finely ground paste until fragrant. Add the prawns and fry for a few minutes.

4.

Stir in the coconut milk and bring to a boil. Add jackfruit and cook for 2 minutes. Season with salt and sugar.

5.

Serve hot with spicy shrimp paste (sambal belacan). (See page 122.)

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SPICY AND SOUR FISH HEAD CURRY Curry Dish | 60-minute Preparation | 30-minute Cooking | Serves 7 1 long eggplant 375 grams | 13 ounces | 33/4 cups grated coconut 1 litre | 32 fl oz | 4 cups water 180 ml | 6 fl oz | 3/4 cup cooking oil 1 torch ginger bud (bunga kantan), halved lengthways 3 kaffir lime leaves 2 tablespoons tamarind pulp mixed with 7 tablespoons water and strained to obtain 7 tablespoons thick tamarind juice 800 grams | 13/4 pounds fish head, red snapper or garoupa 8 ladies’ fingers (okra), stemmed 2 tomatoes, cut into wedges

FINELY GROUND PASTE

20 dried chillies, soaked in water and drained 2 red chillies 25 shallots, peeled 7 cloves garlic, peeled 1.5 cm | 3/4 inch fresh turmeric, peeled 2.5 cm | 1 inch galangal, peeled 2 stalks lemongrass, sliced 2 1/2 tablespoons powdered coriander 3 /4 tablespoon powdered fennel 1 /2 tablespoon powdered cumin SEASONING (BLENDED)

11/2 tablespoons light soy sauce 1 tablespoon sugar 1 anchovy stock cube 1 tablespoon salt 1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Cut eggplant into 2.5-cm | 1-inch lengths, halve each piece and make a slit through each piece from one end to the centre. Soak in water.

3.

Combine the grated coconut and 250 ml / 8 fl oz / 1 cup water and squeeze out 250 ml / 8 fl oz / 1 cup thick coconut milk. Set aside the thick milk.

4.

Add the remaining water to the grated coconut and squeeze 750 ml / 24 fl oz / 3 cups thin coconut milk. Set aside the thin milk .

5.

Heat the cooking oil and fry finely ground paste until fragrant. Gradually stir in the thin coconut milk.

6.

Add torch ginger bud, kaffir lime leaves and tamarind juice. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer for 7 minutes. Add the eggplant.

7.

Increase the heat, add the fish head, ladies’ fingers, tomatoes, seasoning and thick coconut milk. When the fish head and vegetables are cooked, remove from heat.

8.

Serve hot with rice or bread.

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NASI ULAM

RICE WITH HERBS

Rice Dish | 40-minute Preparation | 6-minute Cooking | Serves 4–5 2 1/ 2 tablespoons cooking oil 1 1/ 2 teaspoons anchovy stock granules 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon salt 100 grams | 31/2 ounces grilled fish flakes from 2 hard tail (cencaru) fishes 150 grams | 51/2 ounces prawns (shrimps), shelled, deveined and steamed 2 tablespoons dried small shrimps (udang geragau), dry-fried and pounded (optional) 33/ 4 tablespoons grated coconut, roasted and coarsely pounded but not until oily (kerisik) 500 grams | 1 pound, 11/2 ounces | 4 cups cooked rice, fluffed and cooled 5 long beans, thinly sliced 2 pointed pepper (kaduk) leaves, finely chopped

1 stalk lemongrass, finely chopped 3 kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced 1 /2 torch ginger bud (bunga kantan), thinly sliced 1 turmeric leaf, finely chopped 1 stalk polygonum (kesum) leaves, finely chopped FINELY GROUND PASTE

10 shallots, peeled 1 clove garlic, peeled 1 teaspoon crushed dried shrimp paste 1 /2 teaspoon ground white pepper 1 stalk lemongrass, sliced GARNISH

3 tablespoons crisp-fried shallots (see page 122) 1 cucumber, seeded and cubed 2 red chillies, thinly sliced

1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Heat the cooking oil and fry finely ground paste until fragrant. Add anchovy stock granules, sugar and salt and transfer to a bowl.

3.

Add fish flakes, prawns, small dried shrimps (optional), pounded grated coconut and rice and mix well.

4.

Mix in the vegetables.

5.

Garnish with crisp-fried shallots, cucumber and red chillies.

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NYONYA YEE SANG

NYONYA - STYLE CHINESE NEW YEAR SALAD

This recipe is a contribution from my teacher, Mr Lim Bian Yam, the master chef of International School of Home Cooking. Vegetable Dish | 60-minute Preparation | 30-minute Cooking | Serves 5–6 450 grams | 1 pound treated cuttlefish, scored and blanched for 1–2 minutes then cut into 2.5 cm | 1-inch pieces 150 grams | 51/2 ounces fresh jellyfish, blanched and cut into 0.5-cm | 1/4-inch strips 600 grams | 1 pound, 5 ounces turnip, peeled and cut into thin strips 450 grams | 1 pound Chinese lettuce, cut into 1-cm | 1/ 2-inch pieces 300 grams | 101/2 ounces cucumber, seeded and cut into thin strips

CHEF’S NOTE: Chinese cruller (Yau Char Kway) can be added, if desired. If you use dried jellyfish, soak it in water overnight and change the water several times. To cook it, blanch the jellyfish in boiling water for half a minute. Remove and rinse with cold water. Do not overcook the jellyfish or it will be tough. When you use small prawns (shrimps) for the fritter (Chae Hu), do not shell them. You can also deep-fry the fritter. Pour a few tablespoons batter on a hot flat ladle, add prawns (shrimps) and leave the ladle of batter in hot oil. Remove ladle gently when batter hardens. Fry fritter until golden brown.

PRAWN FRITTER (CHAE HU)

YEE SANG SAUCE

110 grams | 4 ounces | 1 cup plain (all-purpose) flour, sifted 1 /2 teaspoon ground white pepper 1 teaspoon five-spice powder 1 /2 teaspoon salt 1 grade A (60 grams | 2 ounces) egg 125 ml | 4 fl oz | 1/ 2 cup water 1 teaspoon baking powder 60 grams | 2 ounces small prawns (shrimps), coarsely chopped 250 ml | 8 fl oz | 1 cup cooking oil

0.5 cm | 1/4 inch peeled galangal, finely pounded 3 red chillies, finely pounded 90 ml | 3 fl oz | 3/8 cup tomato sauce 60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup chilli sauce 180 ml | 6 fl oz | 3/4 cup plum sauce 1 /2 heaped teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons sugar 60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup water 110 grams | 4 ounces mashed potato 30 grams | 1 ounce | 1/ 4 cup roasted peanuts, coarsely pounded 2 tablespoons roasted sesame seeds, coarsely pounded

PRAWN FRITTER (CHAE HU)

1.

Mix the flour, pepper, five-spice powder and salt in a bowl. Add the egg and stir. Gradually add water and mix into a smooth batter. Strain into a bowl.

2.

Proof the batter for an hour.

3.

Add baking powder and prawns and mix well.

4.

Heat the cooking oil in a non-stick frying pan (skillet) and pour in the batter. Swirl the pan so that the batter spreads evenly. Fry for 7 minutes on each side until golden brown. Drain.

5.

Cut fritter diagonally into 0.5-cm / 1/4-inch thick slices.

YEE SANG SAUCE

1.

Bring to a boil all the ingredients, except peanuts and sesame seeds, and cook until the sauce thickens.

2.

Remove from the heat, add peanuts and sesame seeds.

TO SERVE

1.

Arrange all the ingredients on a large serving plate. Serve with the Yee Sang sauce.

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CHICKEN SATAY WITH PEANUT SAUCE Grilled Dish | 3-hour Preparation | 2-hour Cooking | Serves 7 800 grams | 13/4 pounds skinned chicken breast or boned drumsticks, cut into 0.5 x 2.5-cm | 1 /4 x 1-inch pieces 75 ml | 21/ 2 fl oz | 1/3 cup thick coconut cream, extracted, using muslin cloth, from 125 grams | 4 1/2 ounces | 11/4 cups grated coconut 1 1/ 2 teaspoons salt 70 grams | 21/2 ounces | 1/3 cup sugar Satay sticks, as needed, soaked in water for an hour, or skewers 3 stalks lemongrass, crushed at the lower end, to be used for basting FINELY GROUND PASTE

9 shallots, peeled 3 cloves garlic, peeled 3 candlenuts 3.5 cm | 11/2 inches fresh mature turmeric, peeled 2.5 cm | 1 inch young galangal, peeled 1 stalk lemongrass, sliced 1 teaspoon crushed dried shrimp paste CHEF’S NOTE: Use galangal which is not too young nor too mature. Very young galangal has no flavour and one that is too mature is very fibrous. Roasted spices must be pounded when they are still hot otherwise they harden when cool and become difficult to pound. The tangy taste of the bilimbi is a personal preference. If you like the sauce sour, add more. Sliced tomato can be added, if desired. If the bilimbi is out of season, just use pineapple or tomatoes.

ROASTED AND FINELY POUNDED SPICES 1

1 /2 tablespoons coriander seeds 1 /2 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 /2 teaspoon fennel seeds BASTING LIQUID (BLENDED)

60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup cooking oil 60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup water 2 tablespoons coconut cream, extracted, using muslin cloth, from 60 grams | 21/4 ounces | 1/2 cup grated coconut PEANUT SAUCE

150 ml | 5 fl oz | 5/8 cup cooking oil 1 litre | 32 fl oz | 4 cups coconut milk, extracted from 350 grams | 121/2 ounces | 31/2 cups grated coconut and 1 litre | 32 fl oz | 4 cups water 350 grams | 121/2 ounces bilimbi (belimbing buluh), cut into 1-cm | 1/2-inch thick slices and boiled for 1 minute to remove a bit of its sourness

300 grams | 101/2 ounces | 13/4 cups finely chopped pineapple 300 grams | 101/2 ounces | 21/2 cups roasted peanuts, coarsely pounded 11/ 2 rounded tablespoons salt 220 grams | 8 ounces | 1 cup sugar SPICE PASTE FOR PEANUT SAUCE

25 dried chillies, soaked in water and drained 28 shallots, peeled 2.5 cm | 1 inch galangal, peeled 1 tablespoon crushed dried shrimp paste GARNISH (MIXED)

2 cucumbers, cut into small chunks 2 onions, peeled and cut into wedges 60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup light soy sauce (optional) 1 1/ 2 tablespoons lime juice 3 red chillies, thinly sliced

CHICKEN SATAY

1.

Combine the ingredients for the finely ground paste and grind until fine.

2.

Rub finely ground paste into chicken, add the coconut cream and season with salt and sugar. Sprinkle roasted and finely pounded spices over chicken and mix thoroughly. Marinate for 3 hours.

3.

Thread the chicken through satay sticks or skewers and grill over charcoal fire or under a hot electric grill. Constantly baste with basting liquid to keep the chicken satay moist.

4.

Serve the chicken satay with peanut sauce and garnish. Chicken satay is typically served with Nasi Himpit or Ketupat.

PEANUT SAUCE

5.

Combine the ingredients for the spice paste and grind until fine.

6.

Heat the cooking oil and fry the spice paste until fragrant. Stir in the coconut milk and bring to a boil.

7.

Add the bilimbi and pineapple. Cook for 6 minutes. Stir in peanuts and season with salt and sugar.

8.

Simmer for 5–10 minutes until the sauce thickens, stirring constantly.

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KING PRAWNS (JUMBO SHRIMPS) WITH SPICY SHRIMP PASTE This recipe is another contribution from my elder sister, Koh Kim Lian. Sambal Dish | 30-minute Preparation | 10–15-minute Cooking | Serves 5 500 ml | 16 fl oz | 2 cups cooking oil 500 grams | 1 pound, 11/2 ounces king prawns (jumbo shrimps), feelers removed and seasoned for 60 minutes with 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon sugar 120 grams | 41/2 ounces | 1/2 cup coarsely pounded spicy shrimp paste (sambal belacan) (see page 122) CHEF’S NOTE: You can garnish this dish with tomato and cucumber slices.

2 kaffir lime leaves /2 teaspoon anchovy stock granules 2 teaspoons kalamansi juice 1

1.

Heat the cooking oil until very hot and deep-fry prawns for 30 seconds. Remove.

2.

Leave 150 ml / 5 fl oz / 5/8 cup oil in the pan and stir-fry spicy shrimp paste for 1/2 minute.

3.

Add the prawns, kaffir lime leaves and anchovy stock granules.

4.

When prawns are cooked, switch off the heat and add kalamansi juice.

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KUIH PIE TEE

TOP HAT

Snack | 30-minute Preparation | 50-minute Cooking | Serves 8 PIE TEE CASE

TURNIP FILLING

1

250 grams | 9 ounces | 21/2 cups plain (all-purpose) flour 60 grams | 2 ounces | 1/ 4 cup rice flour pinch of salt 2 grade A (60 grams | 2 ounces each) eggs, beaten 650 ml | 22 fl oz | 22/3 cups water, mixed with a pinch of slaked lime (kapur) 1 litre | 32 fl oz | 4 cups cooking oil for deep-frying

60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup cooking oil 300 grams | 101/2 ounces prawns (shrimps), shelled and deveined 10 cloves garlic, peeled and pounded 2 tablespoons preserved soy bean paste (tau cheong) 1 kilogram | 2 pounds, 3 ounces turnip, peeled and cut into thin strips 2 pieces (110 grams | 4 ounces each) firm bean curd (tau kwa), cut into thin strips then deep-fried 1 litre | 32 fl oz | 4 cups water 2 tablespoons light soy sauce

1

CHEF’S NOTE: Add more water if turnip is still hard or fibrous. You can freeze turnip filling for 2 weeks to a month.

/2 teaspoon thick soy sauce /4 teaspoon salt 1 /2 tablespoon sugar GARNISH

60 grams | 2 ounces bean sprouts, tailed, blanched and drained 2 sprigs coriander leaves (cilantro) omelette, made from 1 grade A (60 grams | 2 ounces) beaten egg, sliced thinly 100 grams | 31/2 ounces cooked crabmeat (optional) 40 grams | 11/2 ounces | 2/ 3 cup crisp-fried shallots (see page 122) 2 red chillies, sliced

TO MAKE PIE TEE CASE

1.

Sift plain flour, rice flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the centre and add the beaten eggs. Whisk slowly until well mixed.

2.

Add the water gradually and whisk until smooth. Strain the batter.

3.

Heat cooking oil. Place pie tee mould in the hot oil until it is heated through. Dip the hot mould in the batter, lift it up and lower it into the hot oil.

4.

Jiggle it up and down immediately so that the soft edge around the case loosens and forms a brim. If you leave it in the oil without jiggling, you will not get a brim.

5.

When the case hardens (not too hard or it will be difficult to remove), use the tip of a small blunt knife to ease it off the mould. Refry till golden brown. Remove and drain on absorbent paper. Cool and store in an airtight container. Pie tee cases can be stored for a week.

TURNIP FILLING

1.

Heat the cooking oil and fry the prawns. Remove and set aside.

2.

Sauté the garlic in the same oil until fragrant. Add preserved soy bean paste and fry until oil surfaces.

3.

Lower the heat, add turnip and stir well. Add bean curd and water. Bring to a boil.

4.

Season well with light and thick soy sauce, salt and sugar. Simmer until turnip is soft and gravy thickens. Add the fried prawns. Stir well and cook for 2 minutes.

TO SERVE

1.

Spoon the filling into each pie tie case. Garnish with bean sprouts, coriander leaves, omelette, crabmeat (optional), crisp-fried shallots and red chillies.

2.

Serve immediately with chilli sauce.

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STEAMED PEARL SAGO WITH COCONUT Sweet | 30-minute Preparation | 20–30-minute Cooking | Serves 6 250 grams | 9 ounces | 11/2 cups pearl sago, washed, soaked in water for an hour and drained 140 grams | 5 ounces | 5/8 cup sugar 200 grams | 7 ounces | 2 cups grated, peeled young coconut CHEF’S NOTE: Use young coconut. A mature one gives a gritty taste.

1

/4 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon pandan juice, extracted from 10 pounded pandan leaves few drops of green colouring few drops of red colouring

1

/4 teaspoon rose essence banana leaf, cut into a 23-cm | 9-inch round, lightly greased 3 small pandan leaves, knotted

1.

Boil the water in the steamer over a high heat.

2.

Combine the pearl sago, sugar, coconut and salt. Divide into 3 equal portions.

3.

Mix one portion with pandan juice and green colouring, and the other with red colouring and rose essence, leaving one portion plain.

4.

Line the base of a 23-cm / 9-inch cake tin with banana leaf. Spread the plain sago mixture evenly in the tin and press lightly with a spatula. Top with one pandan leaf. Dry the inside of the steamer cover to prevent water from dripping onto the cake. Place the tin in the steamer and steam for 10 minutes until sago is transparent. Remove the pandan leaf, add the layer of green sago to the steamed sago, top with another pandan leaf and steam again for 10 minutes until sago is cooked. Repeat the process with the red portion.

5.

When cooked, remove the tin from the steamer and cool cake competely before cutting into diamond shapes.

From top: Steamed Pearl Sago with Coconut, Kuih Pie Tee (Top Hat), Steamed Pearl Sago with Coconut. 109

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PUTUGAL

BANANA - FILLED TAPIOCA ROLLS

Sweet | 35-minute Preparation | 20-minute Cooking | Makes 6 10 pandan leaves 3 pandan serani leaves* 60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup water 300 grams | 101/2 ounces | 11/2 cups finely grated, peeled tapioca

125 ml | 4 fl oz | 1/ 2 cup coconut cream, extracted, using muslin cloth, from 300 grams | 10 1/2 ounces | 3 cups grated, peeled coconut 1 teaspoon tapioca flour 1 /8 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons sugar

* Pandan serani is a variety of pandan leaf that gives a more concentrated green colour than the usual pandan leaf.

1.

Pound pandan and pandan serani leaves, add water and squeeze out 60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup juice. Set aside.

2.

Squeeze grated tapioca in a muslin cloth to extract the liquid. Leave the liquid aside for 20 minutes for sediment to settle. Strain the liquid and return the sediment to the squeezed tapioca pulp.

3.

Add the coconut cream, tapioca flour, salt, sugar and pandan juice to the tapioca pulp. Mix well.

4.

Divide tapioca mixture into 12 portions. Put one portion onto a banana leaf, add a peeled banana and cover with another portion of tapioca mixture. Roll neatly, then wrap in aluminium foil. Twist both ends of the foil tightly. Repeat until all the ingredients are used.

5.

Steam over rapidly boiling water for 15–20 minutes until cooked.

6.

When cool, unwrap the putugal and slice diagonally. Coat slices with the grated coconut mixture and serve.

6 ripe bananas, preferably pisang raja 6 pieces (15-sq cm | 6-sq inch each) banana leaf 6 pieces (25-sq cm | 10-sq inch each) aluminium foil 100 grams | 31/2 ounces | 1 cup grated, peeled young coconut, mixed with 1 tablespoon sugar and 1 /8 teaspoon salt

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APAM BERKUAH

PANCAKE WITH RICH BANANA SAUCE

This recipe is from my very good friend, Celine J.Marbeck. Sweet | 60-minute Preparation | 60-minute Cooking | Serves 10 1 1/2 teaspoons instant yeast 1 /4 teaspoon sugar 60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup warm water 290 grams | 10 ounces | 3 cups finest rice flour (not blended) 1 /2 tablespoon glutinous rice flour 1 /2 tablespoon tapioca flour 1 /4 teaspoon salt 500 ml | 16 fl oz | 2 cups fresh thick coconut milk (no water added) 1 1/4 teaspoons concentrated juice of butterfly / blue pea flowers (bunga telang) (see page 124) CHEF’S NOTE: The use of instant yeast guarantees success. Ibu is the rice flour mixture used to stabilise the batter. Please see ‘Cooking Tips for Successful Apam Making’, page 128.

IBU 1

60 grams | 2 ounces | /2 cup finest rice flour 415 ml | 13 1/2 fl oz | 13/ 4 cups coconut juice 5 pandan leaves, knotted APAM SAUCE

150 grams | 51/2 ounces | 1 cup finely crushed palm sugar (gula melaka) 9 tablespoons water 5 pandan leaves, shredded and knotted

30 grams | 1 ounce | 1/ 4 cup plain (all-purpose) flour 1 /8 rounded teaspoon salt 300 ml | 10 fl oz | 11/4 cups thick coconut milk (no water added) 150 ml | 5 fl oz | 5/8 cup water 6 ripe apple bananas (pisang emas or pisang raja), peeled and sliced diagonally into 1-cm | 1/ 2-inch thick pieces

1.

Dissolve the yeast and sugar in warm water and set aside in a warm place for 10–15 minutes until frothy. Set aside.

2.

Mix together the 3 types of flour and salt in a mixing bowl. Gradually stir in the coconut milk. Mix until smooth. Set aside.

3.

Boil the ingredients for Ibu over low heat until the texture is smooth. Add the flour and coconut milk mixture slowly to the cooked Ibu and mix well. Leave for a few minutes until lukewarm. Remove pandan leaves.

4.

Stir in the yeast mixture. Cover with a tea towel and leave in a warm place for 21/2 hours until the batter is doubled in size.

5.

Take 3 tablespoons batter, 11/4 teaspoons rice flour and mix well with the juice of butterfly / blue pea flowers. Set aside. Add the baking powder to the risen batter and stir well to dissolve the baking powder.

6.

Heat a brass apam mould and its cover separately over a medium low heat. Grease the mould lightly with cooking oil. Leave the cover on the stove at all times to keep it heated.

7.

Stir the batter each time before pouring into the mould. Add enough batter to fill three-quarters of the mould. Put 2 drops of butterfly / blue pea flower batter on each apam and swirl the batter with a toothpick. Cook until bubbles appear, then cover the mould for 30 seconds to cook the top of the apam. The Apam is done when it is firm and not sticky to the touch.

APAM SAUCE

1.

Boil the palm sugar, water and pandan leaves in a saucepan. Strain the syrup into a clean saucepan.

2.

In a bowl, mix the flour and salt. In another bowl, mix the coconut milk with the water, then gradually stir it into the flour until smooth. Strain and pour into the syrup. Add bananas. Stir slowly until it boils. Cook for 1 minute.

3.

Remove from the heat.

TO SERVE

1.

Serve apam with apam sauce.

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GADING GALOH

GLUTINOUS RICE WITH CUSTARD TOPPING

Sweet | 30-minute Preparation | 50-minute Cooking | Serves 7 GLUTINOUS RICE LAYER 1

CUSTARD TOPPING 1

300 grams | 10 /2 ounces | 1 /2 cups glutinous rice, washed and soaked in water for at least 4 hours and drained 150 ml | 5 fl oz | 5/8 cup thick coconut milk (no water added) 150 ml | 5 fl oz | 5/8 cup water 1 1/ 4 teaspoon salt 3 pandan leaves, shredded and knotted 1 tablespoon concentrated juice of butterfly / blue pea flowers (bunga telang) (see page 124) Banana leaves CHEF’S NOTE: You can also sprinkle the blue colouring after the glutinous rice has been steamed or has absorbed all the coconut milk. Steam for another 10 minutes. Remove the tin and press the glutinous rice until compact. Please see ‘Cooking Tips for Successful Talam Making’, page 128.

4 grade A (60 grams | 2 ounces each) eggs 80 grams | 23/4 ounces | 1/3 cup sugar 5 pandan leaves, shredded and knotted 51/4 tablespoons plain (all-purpose) flour, sifted 1 /8 teaspoon salt 300 ml | 10 fl oz | 11/4 cups thick coconut milk (no water added) A few drops of yellow colouring

TO MAKE GLUTINOUS RICE LAYER

1.

Combine the glutinous rice, coconut milk and salt in a bowl. Transfer to a 23-cm / 9-inch cake tin and top with pandan leaves. Steam for 30 minutes over a high heat.

2.

Remove the tin from the steamer. Fluff the glutinous rice and continue steaming for 5 minutes until done.

3.

Remove from heat. Use banana leaves to press the rice until compact. Streak the rice with 1 tablespoon of butterfly / blue pea flower juice. Steam for 10 minutes so that the rice absorbs the colouring. Meanwhile, prepare the topping.

CUSTARD TOPPING

1.

Whisk the eggs, sugar and pandan leaves. Stir in the flour and salt. Gradually mix in the coconut milk and yellow colouring to a smooth consistency. Strain the custard.

2.

Pour the custard into a thick bottom saucepan. Return the pandan leaves to the pan and cook over low heat. Whisk slowly and continuously until the mixture is hot. Remove the pandan leaves.

3.

Pour the custard over the glutinous rice. Cover the tin with aluminium foil to prevent water from dripping onto the custard. Steam over low heat for 30 minutes or until the custard has set or is firm (the cooking time will depend on the amount of water, the heat and the size of the steaming pan used).

4.

Remove the cover and aluminium foil. Continue to steam for 3–5 minutes to dry the surface of the cake. Remove the cake and allow to cool before cutting.

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TAI BAK

NYONYA CENDOL

Normally served at weddings, Tai Bak is a dessert which is very similiar in form to Cendol but with a totally different taste. It is served with syrup and ice. The texture of good Tai Bak is springy but soft. It is made from only three ingredients: rice flour, tapioca flour and syrup. It is normally plain (white) but sometimes red, white and blue colouring are added. Sweet | 15-minute Preparation | 40-minute Cooking | Serves 8 250 grams | 9 ounces | 21/2 cups rice flour, mixed with 5 tablespoons tapioca flour, sifted 760 ml | 24 fl oz | 3 cups water 3 pandan leaves, shredded and knotted CHEF’S NOTE: To colour the Tai Bak, either add a few drops of colouring to the Ibu before you cook it or to the water that is to be mixed with the flour to form a soft dough. You can obtain blue colouring from the butterfly / blue pea flowers (bunga telang) (see page 124). Tai Bak can be stored in a plastic container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, but refrigeration will cause it to harden slightly. To soften it, just pour very hot water over it and let stand for 1–2 minutes or longer depending on the amount of Tai Bak. Drain before use.

SYRUP

250 grams | 9 ounces | 11/8 cups sugar 300 ml | 10 fl oz | 11/4 cups water 3 pandan leaves, shredded and knotted

1.

Blend 90 grams / 3 ounces / 3/4 cup rice and tapioca flour mixture with 560 ml / 18 fl oz / 21/4 cups water until smooth. Stir over a medium heat until it boils and thickens. Set aside this Ibu.

2.

Mix the remaining flour mixture with the rest of the water to form a soft dough. Slowly add the Ibu and blend until smooth.

3.

Fill half a wok with water. Bring to a boil and add pandan leaves.

4.

Place a cendol frame over the wok. Scoop some dough and press firmly through the holes of the frame with the back of a wooden spoon. Do not grate the dough or you will get short Tai Bak that breaks into pieces. Remove frame immediately and stir lightly to separate the Tai Bak.

5.

When cooked, the Tai Bak will float to the surface. Let it float for 20 seconds.

6.

Transfer cooked Tai Bak to a basin of cold water.

7.

Repeat the process with the remaining dough.

8.

Strain the Tai Bak and put in individual bowls. Serve with 1 tablespoon syrup, 1/2 cup water and ice cubes.

SYRUP

1.

Place sugar, water and pandan leaves in a pot and boil over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Discard the pandan leaves and strain the syrup.

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APAM BALIK NYONYA

NYONYA - STYLE PANCAKE

Sweet | 50-minute Preparation | 60-minute Cooking | Serves 8 300 grams | 101/2 ounces | 21/2 cups plain (all-purpose) flour 11/ 4 teaspoons baking powder 1 / 8 teaspoon salt 200 ml | 7 fl oz | 3/4 cup coconut juice (the clear liquid in the coconut)

200 grams | 7 ounces | 11/4 cups finely crushed palm sugar (gula melaka) 1 3 /3 tablespoons demerara or pale brown granulated sugar 3 pandan leaves, shredded and knotted

CHEF’S NOTE: You can add 100 grams / 31/2 ounces durian flesh at step 4 to make a delicious apam durian. Please see ‘Cooking Tips for Successful Apam Making’, page 128.

1

/2 grade A (60 grams | 2 ounces) egg, slightly beaten 400 ml | 13 fl oz | 12/3 cups coconut milk, extracted from 500 grams | 1 pound, 1 1/2 ounces | 5 cups grated coconut and 400 ml | 13 fl oz | 12/ 3 cups water

1.

Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a mixing bowl. Make a well in the centre. Set aside.

2.

Combine coconut juice, palm sugar, demerara or pale brown granulated sugar and pandan leaves in a saucepan. Bring to a boil. Remove the syrup from heat and strain. Set aside until lukewarm.

3.

Gradually pour the syrup into the flour mixture and blend with a hand whisk.

4.

Add the egg and continue mixing. Stir in the coconut milk and blend to a smooth consistency.

5.

Heat the apam mould and its cover separately over a medium stove until hot. Lower the heat and grease the mould lightly.

6.

Pour the batter to fill three-quarters of mould. Cook over a low heat, uncovered, until bubbles appear on the top and the sides of apam turn golden. Cover the mould for 20 seconds to cook the top of the apam. Apam is cooked when it is firm and not sticky to the touch.

7.

Remove cover and replace it on stove to keep it hot. Transfer mould to a heatproof working surface. Loosen the sides of apam with a toothpick. Fold each apam into two or gather four sides towards the centre to form a flower shape before taking it out.

KUIH BIJAN

SESAME PUFFS

This recipe is contributed by my cousin, Amy Koh. Sweet | 60-minute Preparation | 20–25-minute Cooking | Serves 6 300 grams | 101/2 ounces | 21/2 cups plain (all-purpose) flour pinch of salt 150 grams | 51/2 ounces butter 2 grade A (60 grams | 2 ounces each) egg yolks 1 grade A (60 grams | 2 ounces) egg white 2 tablespoons iced water 1 grade A (60 grams | 2 ounces) egg, slightly beaten for glazing

1.

Sift the plain flour and salt into a mixing bowl. Rub the butter into flour until it resembles breadcrumbs.

2.

Beat egg yolks, egg white and water together with a fork. Pour into flour and butter mixture and mix into a soft dough. Allow the dough to rest for 30 minutes.

3.

Roll the dough to 0.3-cm / 1/8-inch thickness and cut into 7.5-cm / 3-inch rounds with a pastry cutter.

4.

Place 11/2 teaspoons filling in the centre of each pastry round. Fold one side of the dough over the other to enclose the filling. Press the edges to seal and pinch the surface with pastry pincers to make a pattern.

5.

Place on ungreased baking tray. Bake in a preheated oven at 170°C / 350°F for 10 minutes. Glaze with beaten egg and continue baking for another 10 minutes until golden brown.

6.

Remove and leave to cool before storing in an airtight container.

FILLING (COMBINED)

90 grams | 3 ounces | 3/ 4 cup roasted peanuts, finely ground 45 grams | 11/2 ounces | 3/8 cup roasted sesame seeds 50 grams | 2 ounces | 1/ 4 cup sugar, or to taste

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From left: Kuih Bijan (Sesame Puffs), Apam Balik Nyonya (Nyonya-style Pancake).

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POPIAH

SPRING ROLLS

Snack | 3-hour Preparation | 1 1/ 2-hour Cooking | Serves 4–5 PANCAKE (MAKES 10–12 PIECES) 1

1

150 grams | 5 /2 ounces | 1 /4 cups plain (all-purpose) flour 1 teaspoon tapioca flour 1 / 8 teaspoon salt 2 grade A (60 grams | 2 ounces each) eggs, beaten 400 ml | 13 fl oz | 12/3 cups water 1 / 2 tablespoon cooking oil FILLING

60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup cooking oil 8 cloves garlic, peeled and pounded 2 tablespoons preserved soy bean paste (tau cheong) 300 grams | 10 1/2 ounces prawns (shrimps), shelled and deveined

2 kilograms | 4 pounds, 6 ounces turnip, peeled and finely shredded 2 tablespoons light soy sauce 1 teaspoon thick soy sauce 1 /2 tablespoon salt 2 tablespoons sugar 2 litres | 64 fl oz | 8 cups water 4 pieces (110 grams | 4 ounces each) firm bean curd (tau kwa), cut into strips and deep-fried GARNISH

20–30 Chinese lettuce leaves, stemmed 2 tablespoons pounded garlic 3 tablespoons pounded red chillies 1 large cucumber, seeded and cut into 2.5-cm | 1-inch long strips

140 grams | 5 ounces bean sprouts, tailed, blanched and rinsed in cold water 200 grams | 7 ounces crabmeat (optional) 3 sprigs coriander leaves (cilantro) omelette, made from 1 grade A (60 grams | 2 ounces) beaten egg, sliced thinly 100 gram | 31/2 ounces | 11/ 8 cups crisp-fried shallots (see page 122) 3 tablespoons crisp-fried chopped garlic (see page 122) 100 grams | 31/2 ounces | 1 cup pounded, roasted peanuts

TO MAKE PANCAKE

1.

Sift the plain flour, tapioca flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the centre.

2.

Add the beaten eggs, mix slowly and gradually pour in all the water and blend into a smooth batter.

3.

Grease slightly a non-stick pan. Pour enough batter to make a thin 23-cm / 9-inch pancake. Cook until golden, flip to cook the other side. Air over a perforated container until cool. Transfer to a plate.

FILLING

1.

Heat the cooking oil and sauté the garlic. Add preserved soy bean paste and fry until oil surfaces. Stir in the prawns until they change colour.

2.

Add turnip and fry for 3 minutes. Season with light and thick soy sauce, salt and sugar.

3.

Add water, bring to a boil. Add fried bean curd. Cook until turnip is tender and gravy is greatly reduced. If using mature turnip, add more water. Allow to cool.

TO PREPARE EACH POPIAH

1.

Place a pancake on a plate. Spread ingredients on pancake in the following order in the amount desired: lettuce, sweet sauce (see recipe on page 123), pounded garlic, red chillies and turnip filling. Top with cucumber, bean sprouts, crabmeat (optional), coriander leaves, omelette, crisp-fried shallots and garlic and peanuts.

2.

Fold the pancake into a neat roll. Cut and serve immediately.

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TALAM GULA MELAKA

PALM SUGAR LAYERED CAKE

Sweet | 30-minute Preparation | 50-minute Cooking | Serves 8 BOTTOM LAYER

TOP LAYER 1

2

150 grams | 5 /2 ounces | /3 cup crushed palm sugar (gula melaka) 1 / 4 tablespoon demerara or pale brown granulated sugar 7 tablespoons water 3 pandan leaves, shredded and knotted 65 grams | 2 ounces | 2/ 3 cup rice flour 1 teaspoon plain (all-purpose) flour 300 ml | 10 fl oz | 11/4 cups coconut milk, extracted from 180 grams | 61/4 ounces | 2 cups grated, peeled coconut and 300 ml | 10 fl oz | 1 1/4 cups water CHEF’S NOTE: To ensure a beautiful blue pattern, the top layer must be almost-cooked before adding drops of butterfly / blue pea flower juice. Please see ‘Cooking Tips for Successful Talam Making’, page 128.

55 grams | 2 ounces | 1/2 cup rice flour 300 ml | 10 fl oz | 11/4 cups coconut milk, extracted from 180 grams | 6 ounces | 2 cups grated, peeled coconut and 300 ml | 10 fl oz | 1 1/4 cups water 1 /2 teaspoon salt 1 /4 teaspoon concentrated juice of butterfly / blue pea flowers (bunga telang) (see page 124)

TO COOK BOTTOM LAYER

1.

Heat a 23-cm / 9-inch cake tin in a steamer. Keep it dry of water droplets from the steamer lid.

2.

Combine the palm sugar, demerara or pale brown granulated sugar, water and pandan leaves in a saucepan and bring to a boil until sugar dissolves. Strain the syrup and leave to cool.

3.

Mix the rice flour and plain flour in a bowl. Gradually stir in the syrup. Add the coconut milk and blend well. Cook batter and stir until hot.

4.

Pour into prepared tin. Wipe the inside of steamer lid dry. Cover and steam over a medium heat for 20 minutes until mixture sets.

5.

Scratch the surface with a fork just before adding the top layer to help the layers stick together.

TOP LAYER

1.

Mix the rice flour, coconut milk and salt. Strain into a saucepan and heat, stirring continuously until hot.

2.

Pour over the cooked bottom layer and steam for 15 minutes over medium heat until almost-cooked. Sprinkle drops of butterfly / blue pea flower juice over cake. Continue steaming for 5 minutes until it is set.

3.

Leave the cake to cool completely before cutting.

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BASIC RECIPES

SPICY SHRIMP PASTE

SAMBAL BELACAN

No traditional Nyonya meal is complete without an accompaniment of spicy shrimp paste. There are only two main ingredients, and yet it forms the basis of our Salad and Sambal dishes. It is so versatile that you can serve it with vegetables tossed in or cooked with prawns or fish. Nyonya cooks use mortar and pestle to pound the ingredients into a paste. When I was young, I enjoyed watching my mother toasting the shrimp paste on glowing charcoals, removing it swiftly and tossing it immediately into the mortar to pound with the red chillies. The hot shrimp paste would cook the chillies. Basic Chilli Paste | 20-minute Preparation | Makes 300 grams / 10 1/ 2 ounces / 1 1/ 8 cups 200 grams | 7 ounces fresh red chillies 100 grams | 3 ounces | 13/4 cups crushed, roasted dried shrimp paste

1.

Pound or blend all the ingredients to the required texture (fine or coarse).

CHICKEN STOCK Stock | 10-minute Preparation | 1-hour Cooking 1 litre | 32 fl oz | 4 cups water bones from 2 chickens

1.

Boil all the ingredients and simmer for 1 hour until the liquid reduces to 750 ml / 24 fl oz / 3 cups. Strain, cool and store in refrigerator.

CRISP-FRIED SHALLOTS Garnish | 5-minute Preparation | 5-minute Cooking | Makes 40 grams / 1 1/ 2 ounces / 2/ 3 cup 125 ml | 4 fl oz | 1/2 cup cooking oil 15 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced

1.

Heat cooking oil until hot. Add shallots and stir for 2 minutes. Lower the heat to medium and fry for 5 minutes until golden brown. Remove and drain on paper towel. Store in airtight container when cool.

CRISP-FRIED CHOPPED GARLIC Garnish | 8-minute Preparation | 3–4-minute Cooking | Makes 30 grams / 1 ounce / 1/ 3 cup 125 ml | 4 fl oz | 1/2 cup cooking oil 15 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

1.

Heat cooking oil until hot. Add garlic and fry for 3–4 minutes until golden brown. Remove and drain on paper towel. Store in airtight container when cool.

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SWEET SAUCE This sauce is used for Popiah (see page 78). Sauce | 8-minute Preparation | 10-minute Cooking | Makes 375ml / 12 fl oz / 1 1/ 2 cups 200 grams | 7 ounces | 12/3 cups plain (all-purpose) flour 200 grams | 7 ounces | 1 cup crushed palm sugar (gula melaka) 400 ml | 13 fl oz | 15/8 cups water 1 /2 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon thick soy sauce

1.

Dry-fry the plain flour until golden brown. Sift into a bowl and allow to cool.

2.

Combine the remaining ingredients and boil until sugar dissolves. Strain the syrup.

3.

Gradually stir in the hot syrup to the flour and blend until the sauce has a smooth consistency.

CHEF’S NOTE: Sweet sauce can be stored in a refrigerator for about 2 weeks.

ALL-PURPOSE SAUCE This is a great sauce for barbecued chicken, prawns, vegetables, etc. Mr Lim Bian Yam, my consultant, contributed this recipe. Sauce | 30-minute Preparation | 10-minute Cooking | Makes 500 ml / 16 fl oz / 2 cups 1. 60 ml | 2 fl oz | 1/4 cup cooking oil 5–6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 2. 1 onion, peeled and cut into 0.3-cm | 1 /8-inch cubes 3 tablespoons preserved soy beans (tau cheo), finely chopped 3. 1 55 grams | 2 ounces | / 2 cup small dried prawns (shrimps), soaked in water for 10 minutes, drained and pounded 15 bird’s eye chillies, chopped 300 ml | 10 fl oz | 11/4 cups water 80 grams | 23/4 ounces | 1/3 cup sugar 1 /4 teaspoon salt 4 teaspoons cornflour (cornstarch), blended with 2 tablespoons water 2–3 tablespoons lime juice

Heat the cooking oil and sauté garlic until lightly brown. Add onion and stir-fry until heated through. Add the preserved soy beans and dried prawns. Fry until aromatic. Add one-third of chopped chillies and fry until heated through before stirring in water. Bring to a boil. Season with sugar and salt. Thicken the gravy with cornflour mixture. Stir in the lime juice and the remaining chillies.

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FISH PASTE / FISH BALLS Fish Paste | 40-minute Preparation | Makes 700 grams / 24 ounces (80 fish balls) 11/ 2 teaspoons salt 180 ml | 6 fl oz | 3/4 cup iced water 600 grams | 1 pound, 5 ounces Spanish mackerel fillet 1 / 2 teaspoon ground white pepper 4 teaspoons tapioca flour or cornflour (cornstarch) 1 / 8 teaspoon seasoning powder

1.

Dissolve salt in iced water.

2.

Pound fish fillet in a pestle and mortar or blend it in an electric food processor. Add salted, iced water slowly until it becomes a smooth paste.

3.

Add the pepper and tapioca flour or cornflour and seasoning powder and stir the paste in one direction, using a metal spoon.

4.

Throw the paste against the sides of the mortar or a mixing bowl several times until it becomes sticky and elastic. This gives a springy texture when cooked.

5.

Wet or oil your hands, depending on the recipe, and take a handful of paste. Squeeze it through the thumb and forefinger to form a walnut-sized lump of fish paste. Scrape off with a wet teaspoon and roll it into a ball. Put fishballs in a bowl of water which is mixed with 1/8 teaspoon salt. Continue process until all the paste is used up.

CHEF’S NOTE: If using a food processor, do not blend the fish at a high speed as this process will cook the paste and the result will not be as good. To make otak-otak, stop at Step 4 and continue as the recipe requires.

BUTTERFLY / BLUE PEA FLOWER (BUNGA TELANG) JUICE Colouring | 8-minute Preparation | 5–8-minute Cooking | Makes 3/ 4 tablespoon 2 handfuls fresh or a handful dried butterfly / blue pea flowers (bunga telang), stalks removed 90 ml | 3 fl oz | 3/8 cup water 1 / 4 teaspoon vinegar or lime juice

1.

Boil the flowers and water. Reduce the heat and add the vinegar or lime juice. Simmer until the liquid is reduced to a concentrated juice. Remove from the heat.

2.

Squeeze and strain to get 3/4 tablespoon juice.

CHEF’S NOTE: Try to use fresh flowers because they give a very nice blue coloiur. Extra juice can be stored in a refrigerator for a few days.

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2 1

4 3

5

6

7

8

9

1. Butterfly / Blue pea flower (Bunga telang) juice. 2. All-purpose sauce. 3. Dried shrimp paste. 4. Preserved soy bean paste (Tau cheong). 5. Fish paste. 6. Crisp-fried chopped garlic. 7. Spicy shrimp paste (Sambal belacan). 8. Preserved shrimps (Cencaluk). 9. Crisp-fried shallots.

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GLOSSARY BANANA BLOSSOM (MUSA SPP.)

The banana is a very popular fruit in the tropics, where it is grown. The ripe fruit is rich in potassium and contains as much as 22% carbohydrates, mainly in the form of sugar. The banana blossom (jantung pisang) is large and purple and only the core is used in cooking. It is normally used in sambals, as ulam, and in coconut milk-based dishes. BILIMBI (AVERRHOA BILIMBI)

This small fruit, locally known as belimbing buluh, is light green or yellow in colour and resembles a tiny cucumber. It has a sourish taste. Fresh bilimbi is added to certain dishes such as sambals and curries to tenderise the meat and to give a tangy flavour. This versatile fruit can be pickled, or preserved with salt and then dried to be used as a substitute for tamarind. BUTTERFLY / BLUE PEA FLOWER (CLITORIA TERNATEA)

This tiny, deep blue flower is locally known as bunga telang. The flower gives the colouring to cakes made of glutinous rice, glutinous rice flour or grated tapioca. To extract the juice, boil a handful of flowers with water, and squeeze and strain the liquid. Add a few drops of lime juice, vinegar or a small slice of dried sour fruit (asam gelugur) to the juice to enhance the colour. The juice can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator or dry the flowers and keep them in an airtight container. CANDLENUT

This hard, waxy and beige nut (buah keras) has a slightly bitter taste. Small quantities are pounded or blended to a paste and used to thicken and add a nutty texture and flavour to curry dishes. To prevent the candlenut from becoming rancid, store them in an airtight container in the refrigerator. CHILLI (CAPSICUM ANNUUM)

Chilli comes from the capsicum family. Unripe chillies are green and turn red when ripe. Red chillies are hotter than the green variety but the tiny fiery bird’s eye chilli is the hottest of all the chillies. Both green and red chillies can be pickled. As there is a slight difference in the flavour and fragrance between the green and red chillies, the particular type specified in the recipe should be used. Fresh red chillies may be used whole in cooking or cut in various ways for garnishing. Fresh or dried red chillies are usually pounded into a paste and used for flavouring and seasoning. Powdered red chilli is also available. Substitute 2 teaspoons powdered chilli for 150 grams / 51/2 ounces fresh chillies.

DRIED SHRIMP PASTE

Dried shrimp paste (belacan) is made from small shrimps which have been dried in the sun before being pounded into a paste. This strong smelling condiment is widely used in Malay and Nyonya cooking. It is pounded and blended with other spices and seasonings to make a spice mix which is the base for sambal dishes, curries and spicy gravies. Dried shrimp paste can be bought fresh whole or as pre-roasted granules. GREATER GALANGAL (ALPINIA GALANGA)

This large rhizome (lengkuas) is pale pink when young and is more tender and flavourful than the mature one which is beige in colour. Galangal belongs to the ginger family but cannot be used as a substitute for the common ginger as its pungency and tang is distinctively different. Galangal is added to curries or dishes in slices, chunks or as a paste. As it is quite fibrous, chop it into small pieces before pounding or grinding it. If not available, just omit it or use lemongrass. Substitute 1/4 teaspoon powdered galangal for 25 grams / 1 ounce fresh galangal. INDONESIAN BLACK NUT (PENGUI MEDULAE)

Although native to Brazil, this black, hardshelled nut known locally as buah keluak is grown extensively in Indonesia. The black, oily kernel has a slightly bitter taste. A good nut is heavy, does not rattle when shaken and does not produce a hollow sound when tapped lightly. Always buy slightly more than required to allow for a few bad ones in the lot. Soak the nuts overnight and crack them along their lines before cooking. KAFFIR LIME LEAVES

These leaves (daun limau purut) are from the kaffir lime plant which produces the kaffir lime (Citrus hystrix, C. papedia), a small, wrinkled dark green citrus fruit. The leaves are commonly used fresh or dried in curries for a slightly delicate lemony flavour. Sometimes, they are finely shredded and added to salads or cooked food. A substitute is the tender new leaves of the lemon or grapefruit. LEMONGRASS (CYMBOGOPON CITRATUS)

This is a fragrant herb with coarse, long, flat leaves and a bulbous base. Discard the leaves and peel away the tough outer layers of the stem to use only the lower portion. Bruise this or add whole to gravies and curries for a distinctive lemony flavour. It can also be sliced and finely ground to add flavour to paste-based dishes. If lemongrass is unavailable, use 2 or 3 pieces of thinly peeled lemon rind. Two stalks of fresh lemongrass is equivalent to 1/2 teaspoon of powdered lemongrass. It is fragrant only up to the purple ring (about 10 cm /4 inches from the root).

PANDAN LEAF (PANDANUS AMARYLLITOLIUS)

This long, dark green, blade-like leaf, also known as screwpine leaf, is very fragrant and remarkably versatile. It is added whole to give a distinctive flavour and aroma to savoury dishes or pounded to extract its juice to lend colour and flavour to desserts and cakes. POLYGONUM LEAVES (PERSICARIA ADORATA, SYN. POLYGONUM ADORATUM)

These narrow, pointed leaves are also known as Vietnamese mint and locally known as daun kesum or daun laksa. They are used for garnishing and flavouring curries. The leaves are either crushed or sliced to release their fragrance into the curries or laksa. The leaves are also added to fish dishes to camouflage the fishy smell. PRESERVED SHRIMPS

This relish, locally known as cencaluk, is made from small, fine shrimps with long feelers. They are found in the Straits of Melaka. Hot boiled rice and salt is added to the shrimps, then brandy is added to help the fermentation process before the mixture is bottled. It takes the mixture 2 to 3 days to mature. Preserved shrimps is eaten as a relish by adding sliced fresh shallots, chilles and lime juice to it. PRESERVED SOY BEANS / PRESERVED SOY BEAN PASTE

Preserved soy bean paste (tau cheong) is blended from preserved soy beans (tau cheo). They are both similar in taste and have a light brown colour. Chilli is added to preserved soy bean paste and this is known as hot and spicy tau cheong. Malay cooking uses a lot of preserved soy beans while Nyonya and Szechuan cooking calls for preserved soy bean paste. Preserved soy bean paste thickens the sauce of dishes such as Ayam Pongteh. TORCH GINGER BUD (NICOLOIA ELATIOR)

This bud of wild ginger flower (bunga kantan) has a delicate aroma. For cooking purposes, the bud is picked while the petals are still tightly folded. Its intriguing fragrance lends a refreshing aroma to curries and fish dishes. The bud may be eaten raw, where it is finely sliced and added to vegetable salads such as kerabu or rojak. The full blossom flower is added to soups and gravies to impart its unique flavour. TURMERIC (CURCUMA DOMESTICA)

This rizhome (kunyit) is available fresh or in powdered form. It is bright orange-yellow with a pepper-like bitter taste. It is used in small quantities as a food colouring, a spice and as seasoning for fish or chicken dishes and coconut milk-based gravies. Fresh turmeric leaf (daun kunyit) is also used to flavour fish and meat dishes and as a herb in Malay dishes. Substitute 1 tablespoon chopped fresh turmeric with 1/4 teaspoon powdered turmeric.

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4

1 2

3

5 6

7 8

10

11

12

14

9

13

15

16 17

1. Kaffir lime leaves. 2. Pandan leaves. 3. Torch ginger bud (Bunga kantan). 4. Lemongrass. 5. Curry leaves. 6. Candlenuts. 7. Bird’s eye chillies. 8. Banana blossoms (Jantung pisang). 9. Turmeric leaves. 10. Bilimbi (Belimbing buluh). 11. Butterfly / Blue pea flower (Bunga telang). 12. Turmeric. 13. Green chillies. 14. Indonesian black nuts (Buah keluak). 15. Red chillies. 16. Polygonum (Kesum) leaves. 17. Galangal.

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WEIGHTS & MEASURES

COOKING TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL APAM MAKING The Nyonyas always cook apam in a special traditional brass mould which can be plain or with different patterns of flowers or animals. The same mould is used to bake the sponge cake, Kuih Baulu.

Quantities for this book are given in Metric, Imperial and American (spoon and cup) measures. Standard spoon and cup measurements used are: 1 teaspoon = 5 ml, 1 dessertspoon = 10 ml, 1 tablespoon = 15 ml, 1 cup = 250 ml. All measures are level unless otherwise stated.

• Use a small wok and its cover or a non-stick pan, if traditional apam mould is not available.

LIQUID AND VOLUME MEASURES

• Cook the apam from a medium heat, then lower the heat to allow the apam to rise. This also prevents burning the base of the apam. • Use an ordinary saucepan cover that fits the mould if a special apam mould cover is not available. Covering the apam facilitates faster cooking of the top part, so that the top and bottom will be cooked at the same time. Cover the apam only after the bubbles have formed on its surface, otherwise the apam will have a smooth surface and will not look attractive. When it is done, remove and fold into half. • Grease the mould lightly after each round of baking and stir the batter before pouring into the mould. Grease the mould only after it is hot to prevent the batter from sticking to it. • Squeeze milk from the grated coconut using a muslin cloth. Take a small portion of coconut each time to get the maximum quantity of milk. You can get approximately 180 ml / 6 fl oz / 3/4 cup thick coconut milk from 350 grams / 121/2 ounces / 31/2 cups grated coconut, depending on the strength and manner in which you squeeze the coconut. Add more water to make up the required amount. • Always measure coconut milk as required in the recipe.

Imperial

American

5 ml 10 ml 15 ml 60 ml 85 ml 90 ml 125 ml 180 ml 250 ml 300 ml 375 ml 435 ml 500 ml 625 ml 750 ml 1 litre 1.5 litres 2.5 litres

1

1 teaspoon 1 dessertspoon 1 tablespoon 1 /4 cup (4 tablespoons) 1 /3 cup 3 /8 cup (6 tablespoons) 1 /2 cup 3 /4 cup 1 cup 11/4 cups 11/2 cups 13/4 cups 2 cups 21/2 cups 3 cups 4 cups 6 cups 10 cups

/6 fl oz /3 fl oz 1 /2 fl oz 2 fl oz 21/2 fl oz 3 fl oz 4 fl oz 6 fl oz 8 fl oz 10 fl oz (1/2 pint) 12 fl oz 14 fl oz 16 fl oz 20 fl oz (1 pint) 24 fl oz (11/5 pints) 32 fl oz (13/5 pints) 48 fl oz (22/5 pints) 80 fl oz (4 pints) 1

DRY MEASURES

FOR SUCCESSFUL TALAM MAKING • The texture of the cake depends on the flour. Always use the same brand of rice flour (there are many brands to choose from). It is advisable to test with a small portion of the batter. Cook it, then spread and leave to cool. This will help you to gauge the softness of the cake and adjust accordingly. Nyonya cakes need precise measures, so you have to be very exact. This is a good practice to ensure success. • Heat the batter until hot. If it becomes lumpy because it is too hot, quickly break the lumps up with a whisk. Then pour into the cake tin. • Moisture always collects underneath the lid or cover of the steamer. Before steaming cake, wipe the moisture off to achieve a smooth topping. If there are water droplets on the cooked layer, just dab lightly with a cloth or a tissue paper. Continue this every 5 minutes until the cake is set. • Water prevents layers from sticking together. Make sure the top of each layer is dry before adding another layer. This, and scratching the surface of the lower layer lightly with a fork, will help the two layers to stick together. Follow this guideline for all layered Nyonya cakes.

Metric

Metric

Imperial

30 grams 45 grams 55 grams 70 grams 85 grams 100 grams 110 grams 140 grams 280 grams 450 grams 500 grams 700 grams 800 grams 1 kilogram 1.5 kilograms 2 kilograms

1 ounce 11/2 ounces 2 ounces 21/2 ounces 3 ounces 31/2 ounces 4 ounces 5 ounces 10 ounces 16 ounces (1 pound) 1 pound, 11/2 ounces 11/2 pounds 13/4 pounds 2 pounds, 3 ounces 3 pounds, 41/2 ounces 4 pounds, 6 ounces

LENGTH

• Have boiling water on hand to replenish water for steaming.

Metric

Imperial

0.5 cm 1 cm 1.5 cm 2.5 cm

1

/4 inch /2 inch 3 /4 inch 1 inch 1

• Adjust steaming time accordingly. Cake is opaque in colour when it has set.

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9.5mm

FLORENCE TAN ’ S TIMELESS PERANAKAN RECIPES

(Continued from front flap)

A chef by profession, Florence has worked in five-star hotels around the country. She also develops recipes

N C E TA N ORE ’S ANA K A N R E R E FL P ESS CIPE MEL TI

S

for food and kitchen equipment companies, presents cooking shows on TV and judges cooking competitions. In addition, Florence contributes recipes regularly to

Florence Tan’s Timeless Peranakan Recipes

popular women’s magazines to share

features 70 delightful recipes that reveal the

her knowledge and love of cooking.

heart of authentic Nyonya (Peranakan) cuisine

In promoting Nyonya cooking, Florence hopes to preserve the cuisine so that future generations can continue to produce and savour these authentic flavours.

from Malaysia’s most popular Nyonya chef, Florence Tan. The well-loved chef also shares concise notes and cooking tips throughout the book to provide insight into each recipe.

Learn how to prepare all-time favourites such Also by Florence Tan:

as Hee Peow Soup (Dried Fish Bladder Soup), Udang Masak Lemak (Prawns in Coconut Gravy) and Ayam Buah Keluak (Chicken in Black Nut Gravy), and whip up crowd-pleasing snacks and desserts such as Kuih Pie Tee (Top Hat) and Apam Balik Nyonya (Nyonya-style

C N E ’ E T A R O N S FL

Malaysia’s sweetheart for authentic Nyonya (Peranakan) cuisine. She received a merit of appreciation from the Tourism Promotion Division of

TIMELESS PERANAKAN RECIPES

Melaka State Government for her efforts in promoting Nyonya cuisine in the United Nations from 2008 to 2009. The Malaysia External Trade Development Corporation (MATRADE) and Tourism Malaysia also recognise that her expertise in Nyonya cooking, coupled with her passion for the cuisine and generosity of sharing her knowledge, make her the perfect international ambassador for Nyonya cuisine, and she is often invited to promote the cuisine in various

Pancake). Indulge your nearest and dearest

countries such as Japan, Australia,

with these timeless Peranakan classics!

COOKERY

ISBN 978-981-47-7987-6

,!7IJ8B4-hhjihg!

Marshall Cavendish Cuisine

ISBN 978-981-4398-20-6

florence tan's timeless peranakan recipes cover.indd 1

Florence Tan is recognised as

P LY D E L I C I O U S M I S N YA C O O K I N G N YO

England, France, the Netherlands and America (New York). (Continued on back flap)

05/09/2017 1:00 PM