Eye witness Travel Top 10 Paris 9780241509654

Table of contents :
CONTENTS
Top 10 Paris Highlights
Welcome to Paris
Exploring Paris
Paris Highlights
Musée du Louvre
Musée d’Orsay
Notre-Dame
Eiffel Tower
Sacré-Coeur
Arc de Triomphe
Centre Georges Pompidou
The Panthéon
Sainte-Chapelle
Hôtel des Invalides
The Top 10 of Everything
Moments in History
Historic Buildings
Places of Worship
Novels Set in Paris
Museums
Art Galleries
Riverfront Sights
Parks and Gardens
Off the Beaten Track
Children’s Attractions
Entertainment Venues
Fine Dining
Cafés and Bars
Shops and Markets
Paris for Free
Festivals and Events
Paris Area by Area
Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis
Beaubourg and Les Halles
Marais and the Bastille
Tuileries and Opéra Quarters
Champs-Elysées Quarter
Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters
St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters
Jardin des Plantes Quarter
Chaillot Quarter
Montmartre and Pigalle
Greater Paris
Streetsmart
Getting Around
Practical Information
Places to Stay
General Index
Acknowledgments
Phrase Book
Street Index

Citation preview

EYEWITNESS

TOP 10

PARIS

Top 10 Paris Highlights

The Top 10 of Everything

Welcome to Paris ........................... 5 Exploring Paris............................... 6 Paris Highlights ........................... 10 Musée du Louvre ......................... 12 Musée d’Orsay ............................. 16 Notre-Dame ................................. 20 Eiffel Tower................................... 24 Sacré-Coeur ................................. 26 Arc de Triomphe .......................... 30 Centre Georges Pompidou.......... 32 The Panthéon ............................... 34 Sainte-Chapelle ........................... 36 Hôtel des Invalides....................... 38

Moments in History ..................... 42 Historic Buildings......................... 44 Places of Worship ........................ 46 Novels Set in Paris....................... 48 Museums...................................... 50 Art Galleries ................................. 52 Riverfront Sights .......................... 54 Parks and Gardens ...................... 56 Off the Beaten Track.................... 58 Children’s Attractions .................. 60 Entertainment Venues................. 64 Fine Dining ................................... 66 Cafés and Bars............................. 68 Shops and Markets...................... 70 Paris for Free ............................... 72 Festivals and Events .................... 74

CONTENTS

Paris Area by Area

Streetsmart

Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis ...... 78 Beaubourg and Les Halles.......... 84 Marais and the Bastille................ 92 Tuileries and Opéra Quarters....102 Champs-Elysées Quarter..........110 Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters .............118 St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters ...........124 Jardin des Plantes Quarter .......134 Chaillot Quarter..........................140 Montmartre and Pigalle ............146 Greater Paris ..............................154

Getting Around ...........................164 Practical Information .................168 Places to Stay .............................172

Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. Title page, front cover and spine The iconic Eiffel Tower at springtime Back cover, clockwise from top left Pretty outdoor tables in Montmartre; the ornate Hall of Mirrors in the Palace of Versailles; Apollo Fountain at Versailles; Eiffel Tower; Sacré-Coeur

General Index .............................180 Acknowledgments .....................188 Phrase Book...............................190 Street Index ................................192

The rapid rate at which the world is changing is constantly keeping the DK Eyewitness team on our toes. While we’ve worked hard to ensure that this edition of Paris is accurate and up-to-date, we know that opening hours alter, standards shift, prices fluctuate, places close and new ones pop up in their stead. So, if you notice we’ve got something wrong or left something out, we want to hear about it. Please get in touch at [email protected]

Top 10 Paris ❮❮ 5

Welcome to

Paris

Paris, City of Light. Capital of romance and revolution. A heady mix of café philosophers and Coco Chanel couture. A foodie paradise. A culture-lover’s dream. The focus of a thousand iconic movie images. Paris is all these things and more… so who could deny that it’s Europe’s most magical destination? With DK Eyewitness Top 10 Paris, it’s yours to explore. We love Paris: its culture, its charm, its je ne sais quoi. What could be better than exploring the chic shops of the Marais district or sniffing out the best cheeses in Rue Montorgeuil’s market; wandering through village-like Montmartre or browsing the bookstalls of the Latin Quarter; people-watching in the Jardin du Luxembourg or sauntering along Boulevard St-Germain for an early morning coffee at Café de Flore in the footsteps of Hemingway and Picasso? And what could be more fun than hopping on a Vélib’ bike and cycling along the Seine from the Eiffel Tower to Sainte-Chapelle? Paris is a city made for strolling, along its leafy boulevards and through its parks, against a backdrop of elegant Haussmann buildings and soaring contemporary structures. There’s history in these cobblestoned streets, but Paris is also a striking 21st-century city, where cutting-edge art is displayed in the Palais de Tokyo, and a new generation of acclaimed chefs is experimenting and building upon Paris’s reputation for gastronomic excellence. Whether you’re coming for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide brings together the best of everything that Paris has to offer, from the world-famous glories of the Louvre to the pretty lakes and waterfalls in Bois de Vincennes. The guide has useful tips throughout, from seeking out what’s free to places off the beaten track, plus 11 easy-to-follow itineraries, designed to tie together a clutch of sights in a short space of time. Add inspiring photography and detailed maps, and you’ve got the essential pocket-sized travel companion. Enjoy the book, and enjoy Paris.

Clockwise from top: Boulevard St-Germain, Sacré-Coeur, Versailles gardens, Centre Georges Pompidou, River Seine from Pont Alexandre III, Galeries Lafayette interior, Moulin Rouge

6 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris

Exploring Paris Paris has an inexhaustible wealth of things to see and do. Here are some ideas for how to make the most of your time. The city is relatively compact, so you O NC EAU M OMNC EAU should be able to do most of your sightseeing on foot, and you’re never far Avenue Avenue desdes ArcArc de de from a metro station. Champs-Elysées Champs-Elysées Triomphe Triomphe

Opéra National Opéra National de Paris Garnier de Paris Garnier Place Place Vendôme Vendôme

C HAILLO CHAILLO T T Pont Pont de de l’Alma l’Alma e e in in Se Se

Musée de de Musée l’Orangerie l’Orangerie Jardin desdes Jardin Tuileries Tuileries

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Musée d’Orsay is housed in a former railway station.

Two Days in Paris Day 1

MORNING

Cross Pont Neuf (see p80) over the River Seine to the Ile de la Cité and view the cathedral of Notre-Dame (see pp20–23), partially damaged by fire in April 2019, or visit SainteChapelle (see pp36–7). Continue south into the lively Latin Quarter (see pp124–7) and pause for lunch in a classic Left Bank bistro (see p133). AFTERNOON

Meander through the stylish district of St-Germain-des-Prés (see pp124– 7) to the Musée d’Orsay (see pp16–19) and admire its impressive collection of Impressionist paintings. From here it’s a short walk to Hôtel des Invalides (see pp38–9) and the Eiffel Tower (see pp24–5), stunningly lit up at night.

G E RAIN M AIN ST-STGERM - DEPR S -PERS E S DES-

Key Two-day itinerary Four-day itinerary

Day 2

MORNING

Take in the views from atop the Arc de Triomphe (see pp30–31), then stroll the Avenue des ChampsElysées (see p111) and Jardin des Tuileries (see p103) to the Musée du Louvre (see pp12–15). AFTERNOON

Explore the hip Marais (see pp92–5), stopping at the Centre Georges Pompidou (see pp32–3). Rent a Vélib’ bike and cycle to Montmartre (see pp146–9) and walk up to Sacré-Coeur (see pp26–7) for panoramic views.

Four Days in Paris Day 1

MORNING

Visit Montmartre’s Sacré-Coeur (see pp26–7), then head down through

Exploring Paris ❮❮ 7 MONTMARTRE MONTMARTRE Sacré-Coeur Sacré-Coeur Pigalle Pigalle

BEA U BUOBUORUGR G BEA

ME TR ME O LIN E4 TR O L IN E 4

Barbès Barbès Rochechouart Rochechouart metro metro

Panthéon’s awe-inspiring interior features elegant arches, which link the pillars that support the dome.

Etienne Marcel Etienne Marcel metro metro

Musée Musée du du Louvre Louvre

Centre Georges Centre Georges Pompidou Pompidou

Pont Pont Neuf Neuf

Musée Musée Carnavalet Carnavalet

MAMA RARA IS IS Sainte-Chapelle Sainte-Chapelle

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QUQU A RTI A RETRI E R LALA T I NT I N Panthéon Panthéon Place de la Place de la Contrescarpe Contrescarpe

Jardin Jardin desdes Plantes Plantes

Pigalle (see pp146–9) to Opéra National de Paris Garnier (see pp104–5) and elegant Place Vendôme (see p104). AFTERNOON

Montmartre’s leafy Place du Tertre, where artists set up their easels, is full of life and colour.

Day 3

MORNING

Take a boat trip along the River Seine (see p170) before a visit to the great Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay (see pp16–19).

Wander through Jardin des Tuileries (see p103) and visit Monet’s Water Lilies at the Musée de l’Orangerie (see p52). Then stroll along the Avenue des Champs-Elysées (see p111) to the Arc de Triomphe (see pp30–31).

Pay your respects to Napoleon at Hôtel des Invalides (see pp38–9) and then head to the Eiffel Tower (see pp24–5).

Day 2

Day 4

Discover modern art at the Centre Georges Pompidou (see pp32–3), then explore the recently refurbished Musée Carnavalet (see p94). Enjoy a bistro lunch on Place des Vosges (see p93).

You’ll have time to see all the star exhibits of the Musée du Louvre (see pp12–15) before heading off for lunch in the Latin Quarter (see pp124–7).

MORNING

AFTERNOON

See the Marais district (see pp92–5) and Ile St-Louis (see pp78–81). Pass by Notre-Dame (see pp20–23) before enjoying Sainte-Chapelle (see pp36–7).

AFTERNOON

MORNING

AFTERNOON

Visit the Panthéon (see pp34–5), explore the lovely Jardin des Plantes (see p135) and end the day strolling, and dining, around Place de la Contrescarpe (see p136).

Top 10 Paris Highlights

Magnificent vaulting and stained-glass windows, Sainte-Chapelle

Paris Highlights

10

Arc de Triomphe

30

Musée du Louvre

12

Centre Georges Pompidou

32

Musée d’Orsay

16

The Panthéon

34

Notre-Dame

20

Sainte-Chapelle

36

Eiffel Tower

24

Hôtel des Invalides

38

Sacré-Coeur

26

10 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights

Paris Highlights From Notre-Dame to the Eiffel Tower, Paris holds some of the world’s most famous sights. These ten attractions should be top of the list for any first-time visitor, and remain eternally awe-inspiring. Musée du Louvre

1

The world’s most visited museum also contains one of the world’s finest collections of art and antiquities (up to 1848). To complete the superlatives, it was once France’s largest royal palace (see pp12–15). MO U U MNCEA O NCEA AND AND E FER I FE RDILE D L A V EA VDE D

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This great Gothic cathedral, founded on the site of a Gallo-Roman temple, is a repository of art and history. It is also the geographical “heart” of France (see pp20–23).

Tower 4 Eiffel More than seven million visitors

a year ascend to the top of this famous Paris landmark for the spectacular views. It was erected for the Universal Exhibition of 1889 (see pp24–5).

Sacré-Coeur

0 metres 0 metres 800800 0 yards 0 yards 800800

world’s leading art galleries and, for many, reason alone to visit Paris (see pp16–19).

Notre-Dame

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5

The terrace in front of this monumental white-domed basilica in Montmartre affords one of the finest free views over Paris (see pp26–7).

de Triomphe 6 Arc Napoleon’s triumphal arch,

celebrating battle victories, stands proudly at the top of the Champs-Elysées and, along with the Eiffel Tower, is one of the city’s most enduring images (see pp30–31).

Georges 7 Centre Pompidou Home to France’s National Museum of Modern Art, the building itself is a fascinating work of contemporary art (see pp32–3).

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Paris Highlights ❮❮ 11

MONGE MONGE

Jardin desdes Jardin Plantes Plantes

Panthéon

8

The great and the good of France, including Voltaire, are buried in the Panthéon (see pp34–5).

9 Sainte-Chapelle Known as“a gateway to

heaven”, this exquisite church was built to house relics collected by St Louis on his Crusades (see pp36–7).

des Invalides 0 Hôtel The glowing golden

dome of the Hôtel des Invalides church is unmistakable across the rooftops of Paris. It houses Napoleon’s tomb (see pp38–9).

12 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights

Musée du Louvre One of the world’s most impressive museums, the Louvre contains some 35,000 priceless objects. It was built as a fortress by King Philippe-Auguste in 1190, but Charles V (1364–80) made it his home. In the 16th century François I replaced it with a Renaissance-style palace and founded the royal art collection with 12 paintings from Italy. Revolutionaries opened the collection to the public in 1793. Shortly after, Napoleon renovated the Louvre as a museum. de Milo 1 Venus This iconic

statue of Greek goddess Aphrodite – later known as Venus by the ancient Romans – is the highlight of the museum’s Greek antiques. It dates from the end of the 2nd century BC and was discovered on the Greek island of Milos in 1820.

Horses Glass 2 Marly Coustou’s rearing 5 Pyramid horses (above) being restrained by horsetamers were sculpted in 1745 for Louis XIV’s Château de Marly. Replicas stand near the Place de la Concorde.

The unmistakable glass and steel pyramid, designed by I M Pei, became the Louvre’s new entrance in 1989. Stainless steel tubes make up the 21-m(69-ft-) high frame.

Lisa 3 Mona Arguably the most 6 Medieval Moats famous painting in the world, Leonardo da Vinci’s portrait of a Florentine noblewoman with an enigmatic smile (see p15) has been beautifully restored. Visit early or late in the day.

An excavation in the 1980s uncovered the remains of the medieval fortress. You can see the base of the towers and the drawbridge support under the Cour Carrée.

4 Slaves Michelangelo

Winged 7 The Victory of

sculpted Dying Slave (left) and Rebellious Slave (1513–20) for the tomb of Pope Julius II in Rome. The unfinished figures seem to be emerging from their “prisons” of stone.

Samothrace

This Hellenistic treasure (3rd–2nd century BC) stands atop a stone ship radiating grace and power. It was created to commemorate a naval triumph at Rhodes.

Musée du Louvre ❮❮ 13 Raft of the Medusa 8 The The shipwreck of a French

frigate three years earlier inspired this gigantic early Romantic painting (left) by Théodore Géricault (1791– 1824) in 1819. The work depicts the moment when the survivors spot a sail on the horizon.

0 The Lacemaker

Musée du Louvre

Colonnade 9 Perrault’s The majestic east façade by Claude Perrault (1613– 88), with its paired Corinthian columns, was part of an extension plan commissioned by Louis XIV.

The Winged Victory of Samothrace 7

The Raft of the Medusa 8

Mona 3 Lisa Marly Horses 2 Dying 4 Slave

Perrault’s Colonnade 9

Glass 5 Pyramid Key Ground floor First floor Second floor

Venus 1 de Milo

NEED TO KNOW MAP L2 Musée du Louvre, 75001 • 01 40 20 53 17 • www.louvre.fr •

Open 9am–6pm Mon, Thu, Sat & Sun (to 9:45pm Wed & Fri); closed Tue, 1 Jan, 1 May, 14 Jul, 25 Dec Adm €17; free 1st Sun of month (except Apr–Sep); under-18s free; under-26s (EU only) free

Lacemaker 0 The Jan Vermeer’s

masterpiece (above), painted around 1665, gives a simple but beautiful rendering of everyday life 6 Medieval and is the highlight of the Louvre’s Dutch collection. Moats

Gallery Guide The foyer is under the pyramid. Those with tickets are given priority access at the pyramid. Alternatively, buy tickets at the Carrousel du Louvre entrance (99 rue de Rivoli) or Porte des Lions. • Pre-booking a timed The Sully, Denon and Richeentry slot is essential, even lieu wings lead off from the foyer. Painting and sculpture for visitors who benefit are displayed by country, from free entry. Tickets can plus galleries for objets d’art, be booked on the Louvre antiquities and prints. The website. Choose a date Petit Galerie, in the Richelieu and a 30- minute window wing, is a temporary exhibition area aimed at children. to access the museum. For a light lunch, try Le Café Marly in the Richelieu Wing or the food court in Carrousel du Louvre. For a more special option, book at Alain Ducasse’s Bistrot Benoit below the pyramid.

•

14 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights

Louvre Collections

Ancient Egyptian vase

Paintings 1 French This superb collection ranges from the 14th century to 1848 and includes works by such artists as Jean Watteau, Georges de la Tour and J H Fragonard.

Sculpture 2 French Highlights include the Tomb of Philippe Pot by Antoine le Moiturier, the Marly Horses (see p12) and works by Pierre Puget.

Antiquities 3 Egyptian The finest collection outside

Cairo, featuring a Sphinx in the crypt, the Seated Scribe of Sakkara, huge sarcophagi, mummified animals, funerary objects and intricate carv­ ings depicting life in Ancient Egypt.

Antiquities 4 Greek The art of Ancient Greece

here ranges from a Cycladic idol from the third millennium BC to Classical Greek marble statues (c.5th century BC) to Hellenistic works (late 3rd–2nd century BC).

Louvre Collections

8

9

Key Basement Ground floor First floor Second floor

1

4

7

3 5 4 3

7 0

a recreated temple of an Assyrian king and the Codex of Hammurabi (18th­century BC), mankind’s oldest written laws.

Paintings 6 Italian French royalty adored the art

6 2

Eastern Antiquities 5 Near A stunning collection includes

of Italy and amassed much of this collection (1200–1800). It includes many works by Leonardo da Vinci.

Sculpture 7 Italian Highlights of this collection,

dating from the early Renaissance, include a 15th­century Madonna and Child by Donatello and Michelangelo’s Slaves (see p12).

Paintings 8 Dutch Rembrandt’s works are

hung alongside domestic scenes by Vermeer and portraits by Frans Hals.

d’Art 9 Objets The ceramics, jewellery and other items in this collection span history and the world.

Art 0 Islamic This exquisite collection, which spans 13 centuries and 3 continents, is covered by an ultra­modern glass veil.

Musée du Louvre ❮❮ 15 LEONARDO DA VINCI AND THE MONA LISA

Leonardo da Vinci, Renaissance man extraordinaire, was not only an artist but also a sculptor, engineer, architect and scientist. His many interests included the study of anatomy and aerodynamics.

Born in Vinci to a wealthy family, Leonardo da Vinci (1452–1519) took up an apprenticeship under Florentine artist Andrea del Verrocchio, then served the Duke of Milan as an architect and military engineer, during which time he painted the Last Supper mural (1495). On his return to Florence, to work as architect to Cesare Borgia, he painted his most celebrated portrait, the Mona Lisa (1503–06). It is also known as La Gioconda, allegedly the name of the model’s aristocratic husband, although there is ongoing speculation regarding the identity of the subject. The work, in particular the sitter’s mysterious smile, shows mastery of two techniques: chiaroscuro, the contrast of light and shadow, and sfumato, subtle transitions between colours. It was the artist’s own favourite painting and he took it with him everywhere. In 1516 François I brought them both to France, giving da Vinci the use of a manor house in Amboise in the Loire Valley, where he died three years later. TOP 10

ARCHAEOLOGICAL TREASURES

1 Hammurabi’s Code (1792–1750 BC) 2 Parthenon Marbles (5–4th century BC) 3 Assyrian Lamussa (713 BC) 4 Ain Ghazal Statue (7000 BC) 5 Chapel to Tomb of Akhethotep (2400 BC) 6 The Monzon Lion (12–13th century) 7 The Louvre Doll (3rd–4th century) 8 Frieze of Lions (510 BC) 9 Bull’s head column capital (510 BC) 10 The Seated Scribe (2600–2500 BC)

Mona Lisa, da Vinci’s enigmatic portrait

16 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights

Musée d’Orsay This world-class collection covers a variety of art forms from the years 1848 to 1914, and includes a superb Impressionist section. Its setting, in a converted railway station, is equally impressive. Built in 1900, in time for the Paris Exposition, the station was in use until 1939, when it was closed and largely ignored, although it was the location for Orson Welles’ 1962 film, The Trial. It was later used as a theatre and as auction rooms, and in the mid-1970s was considered for demolition. In 1977, the Paris authorities decided to save the defunct station building by converting it into this striking museum. Building 3 The The former railway station

that houses this museum (left) is almost as stunning as the exhibits. The light and spacious feel on stepping inside, after admiring the magnificent old façade, takes one’s breath away.

Van Gogh Paintings

4

The star of the collection is Vincent van Gogh (1853–90) and the most striking of the canvases on display is the 1889 work showing the artist’s Bedroom at Arles (right). Also on display are some of the artist’s self-portraits, painted with his familiar intensity.

Déjeuner sur l’Herbe 1 Le Edouard Manet’s (1832–83)

controversial painting (1863) was first shown in an “Exhibition of Rejected Works”. Its bold portrayal of a classically nude woman enjoying the company of 19thcentury men in suits brought about a wave of criticism.

2 Olympia 5 Blue Waterlilies Another Manet portrayal (1865) of a naked courtesan, receiving flowers sent by an admirer, was also regarded as indecent, and shocked the public and critics, but it was an important influence on later artists.

Claude Monet (1840– 1926) painted this stunning canvas (1919) on one of his favourite themes. His love of waterlilies led him to create his own garden at Giverny in order to paint them in a natural setting. This work inspired many abstract painters later in the 20th century.

6 Degas’ Statues of Dancers

The museum has an exceptional collection of works by Edgar Degas (1834–1917). Focusing on dancers (left) and the world of opera, his sculptures range from innocent to erotic. Young Dancer of Fourteen (1881) was the only one exhibited in the artist’s lifetime.

Musée d’Orsay ❮❮ 17 Avril 7 Jane Dancing

Toulouse-Lautrec’s (1864–1901) paintings define Paris’s belle époque. Jane Avril was a famous Moulin Rouge dancer and featured in several of his works, like this 1895 canvas (left), which ToulouseLautrec drew from life, in situ at the cabaret.

at 8 Dancing the Moulin de la Galette

One of the best-known paintings of the Impressionist era (1876), this work was shown at the Impressionist exhibition in 1877. The exuberance of Renoir’s (1841–1919) work captures the look and mood of Montmartre and is one of the artist’s masterpieces.

Belle 9 La Angèle

This portrait of a Brittany beauty (1889) by Paul Gauguin (1848–1903) shows the influence of Japanese art on the artist. It was bought by Degas, to finance Gauguin’s first trip to Polynesia.

Campana 0 Café Offering a rest from all the impressive art, the museum’s café, renovated by the Campana Brothers, is delightfully situated behind one of the former station’s huge clocks. A break here is an experience in itself and the food is good too.

NEED TO KNOW MAP J2 • 1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur, 75007 • 01 40 49 48 14 • www. musee-orsay.fr Open 9:30am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9:45pm Thu); closed 1 May & 25 Dec Adm €14 (under-18s free, under-26s EU only free); free first Sun of month; pre-booking a timed entry slot online is essential, even for visitors who benefit from free entry

Café Campana, situated on the fifth floor, is open for lunch, snacks and drinks from Tuesdays through Sundays, plus dinner on Thursdays.

a floorplan as soon as you enter the gallery to find out where the works or collections you want to see are on display. In general, the upper level is home to the Impressionist galleries, • Music concerts are often held. Concert tickets while the ground floor has works from the Academic, include free museum entry. Call 01 53 63 04 63. Realist and Symbolist movements. Decorative arts from the 1900s, including a fine Museum Guide The museum is undergoing Art Nouveau collection, are renovations until 2021, so in the Pavillon Amont, on works of art may be moved the ground floor as well around. It’s best to pick up as on floors 2, 3 and 4. •

18 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights

Musée d’Orsay Collections Impressionists 1 The One of the best Impressionist collections in the world. Admirers of Manet, Monet and Renoir will not be disappointed.

Post-Impressionists 2 The The artists who moved on to a newer interpretation of Impressionism are equally well represented, including Matisse, Toulouse-Lautrec and the towering figure of Van Gogh.

of Pont-Aven 3 School Paul Gauguin was at the

centre of the group of artists associated with Pont-Aven in Brittany. His work here includes Yellow Haystacks, painted when the artist visited the region in 1889.

Nouveau 4 Art Art Nouveau is synonymous

with Paris, with many metro stations retaining entrances built in that style. Pendants and glassware by René Lalique (1860–1945) are among the examples on display here.

Musée d’Orsay Collections

3 2

1 4

8 0 5 9 6 Key Ground floor Second floor Third floor Fourth floor Fifth floor

7

Munch (1863–1944), and James Whistler’s (1834–1903) portrait of his mother, dating from 1871.

6 Romanticism The Romantics wanted to raise

awareness about the spiritual world. One fine example is The Tiger Hunt (1854) by Eugène Delacroix (1798–1863).

5 Symbolism 7 Sculpture This vast collection includes The collection includes pieces works by well-known artists such as Gustav Klimt (1862–1918) and Edvard

by Rodin (see p120) and satirical carvings of politicians by Honoré Daumier (1808–79).

8 Naturalism Naturalist painters intensified nature in their work. Haymaking (1877) by Jules Bastien-Lepage (1848–84) is a fine example.

9 Nabis The Nabis Movement made art into a more decorative form. Pierre Bonnard (1867–1947) is one of its founding members.

0 Architecture In addition to the 19th-century Blue Dancers (1890), Edgar Degas

architectural etchings and drawings, there is a room dedicated to the creation of the Opéra Garnier (see p104).

Musée d’Orsay ❮❮ 19 THE IMPRESSIONIST MOVEMENT Regarded as the starting point of modern art, the Impressionist Movement is the best-known and best-loved art movement in the world – certainly if the popularity of the Musée d’Orsay is anything to go by. It began in France, and almost all its leading figures were French. Impressionism was a reaction against the formality and Classicism insisted upon by the Académie des Beaux-Arts in Paris, which was very much the art establishment, deciding what would or would not be exhibited at the Paris Salon. The term “impressionism” was coined by a critic of the style, who dismissed the 1872 Monet painting Impression: Sunrise, now on display at the Musée Marmottan (see p157). The artists themselves then adopted the term. The style influenced Van Gogh and was to have a lasting influence on 19thand 20th-century art. Cathedral at Rouen (1892–3), Claude Monet

On the Beach (1873), Edouard Manet

TOP 10

IMPRESSIONISTS

1 Claude Monet (1840–1926) 2 Edouard Manet (1832–83) 3 Auguste Renoir (1841–1919) 4 Edgar Degas (1834–1917) 5 Camille Pissarro (1830–1903) 6 Alfred Sisley (1839–99) 7 James Whistler (1834–1903) 8 Walter Sickert (1860–1942) 9 Mary Cassatt (1844–1926) 10 Berthe Morisot (1841–95)

20 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights

Notre-Dame The “heart” of the country, both geographically and spiritually, the Cathedral of Notre-Dame (Our Lady) stands on the Ile de la Cité. After Pope Alexander III laid the foundation stone in 1163, an army of craftsmen toiled for 170 years to realize Bishop Maurice de Sully’s magnificent design. Almost destroyed during the Revolution, the Gothic masterpiece was restored in 1841–64 by architect Viollet-le-Duc. A devastating fire in 2019 toppled the cathedral’s famous 96-m (315-ft) spire and caused part of the roof to cave in. of 1 Portal the Last

4 Flying Buttresses

Judgment

This central relief over the doors of NotreDame depicts the biblical Last Judgment – when the souls of humankind will stand before God. The good souls move to the right, towards paradise, while the souls of the condemned move to the left and are led to hell. Though completely damaged during the Revolution, the portal was restored brilliantly in the 19th century.

The striking flying buttresses supporting the cathedral’s east façade are by Jean Ravy. The best view is from Square Jean XXIII.

Front 5 West The entrance

to the cathedral (right) is through three elaborately carved portals. Biblical scenes, sculpted in the Middle Ages, depict the Life of the Virgin, the Last Judgment and the Life of St Anne.

Zero 2 Point Roads in France are measured from this

plaque in front of the church, making it the very center of the whole country – technically. Legend has it that any visitor who steps on it will inevitably return to Paris one day.

Portal of the Virgin

3

The splendid stone tympanum (right) was carved in the 13th century and shows the Virgin Mary’s death and coronation in heaven. However, the statue of the Virgin and Child that stands between the doors is a modern replica.

of 6 Gallery Kings

The west façade of Notre-Dame cathedral is adorned with the statues of the kings from the book of Judah. During the French Revolution the heads of these statues were chopped off, symbolically believed to be the kings of France. The missing heads were found nearly 200 years later at a construction site nearby and are now up on display.

Notre-Dame ❮❮ 21 Windows 7 Rose Three great rose windows adorn

the north, south and west façades, but only the north window (left) retains its 13th-century stained glass, depicting the Virgin surrounded by figures from the Old Testament. The south window shows Christ encircled by the Apostles.

8 Gargoyles A key feature of the Gothic style of

architecture, these grotesque statues stretch from the cathedral’s roof and channel water off the roof, acting as waterspouts. On a rainy day, visitors can see the water pouring from their mouths.

9 Galerie des Chimères

Towers 0 The The huge

Lurking behind the upper gallery between the towers are decorative sculptures or chimères (above), placed here to ward off evil.

NEED TO KNOW

onlookers, the fire quickly spread to the east and west along the roof, which was partially covered in scaffolding at the time. As the flames reached the Gothic towers, the spire collapsed and crashed through the The cathedral is currently vaulted roof. It took 500 closed to the public due to firefighters more than 12 ongoing restoration work. hours to extinguish the inferno. It is thought the The Fire of Notre-Dame cathedral was 30 minutes On 15 April 2019, fire broke away from being all but destroyed had the fire out near the cathedral’s engulfed the bell towers, spire during renovation causing them to fall. Many work. Watched by many

MAP N4 • 6 Parvis NotreDame – Pl Jean-Paul II, 75004 • 01 53 10 07 00 (towers); 01 42 34 56 10 (cathedral) • www. notredamedeparis.fr

Gothic towers are 69 m (226 ft) high; 387 steps within the north tower lead to great views. In 2013, new bells rang here to celebrate the cathedral’s 850th birthday.

of the priceless treasures and artworks were rescued from the blaze; the 16 copper roof statues had already been removed due to the refurbishment. The vaulted stone ceiling and the cathedral’s rose windows mostly survived. The government has set an ambitious goal to have the cathedral restored to its former glory by 2024 – including, after much public debate, a faithful reconstruction of the original spire.

22 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights

Famous Visitors to Notre-Dame of Arc 1 Joan The patriot Jeanne d’Arc

(1412–31), who defended France against the invading English, had a posthumous trial here in 1455, despite having been burned at the stake 24 years earlier. She was found to be innocent of heresy.

2

François II and Mary Stuart

Henry VI (1421–71) became King of England at the age of one. Like his father, Henry V, he also claimed France and was crowned in NotreDame in 1430.

8 Marguerite of Valois

In August 1572, Marguerite (1553–1589), sister of Charles IX, stood in the Notre-Dame chancel during her marriage to the Protestant Henri of Navarre (1553–1610), while he stood alone by the door.

Mary Stuart (Mary Queen of Scots; 1542–87) had been raised in France and married the Dauphin in 1558. He ascended the throne as François II in 1559 and the king and queen were crowned in Notre-Dame.

3 Napoleon The coronation of

VI of 7 Henry England

of Navarre 9 Henri As a Protestant

Huguenot, Henri’s marriage

Statue of Joan to the Catholic Marguerite of Arc inside resulted in uprising and Notre-Dame

Napoleon (1769–1821) in Notre-Dame in 1804 saw the eager general seize the crown from Pope Pius VII and crown himself emperor and his wife, Josephine, empress.

many massacres. In 1589, he became Henri IV, the first Bourbon king of France, and converted to Catholicism, stating that “Paris is well worth a Mass”.

4 Josephine Josephine’s (1763–1814)

de Gaulle 0 Charles On 26 August 1944, Charles

reign as Empress of France lasted only five years; Napoleon divorced her in 1809.

Pius VII 5 Pope In 1809 Pope Pius VII

de Gaulle entered Paris and attended a Magnificat service to celebrate the liberation of Paris, despite the fact that hostile snipers were still at large outside the cathedral.

(1742–1823), who oversaw Napoleon’s Notre-Dame coronation, was taken captive when the emperor declared the Papal States to be part of France. The pope was imprisoned at Fontainebleau, 50 km (30 miles) south of Paris.

the Fair 6 Philip In 1302 the first States General parliament was formally opened at Notre-Dame by Philip IV (1268–1314), otherwise known as Philip the Fair. He greatly increased the governing power of the French royalty.

Charles de Gaulle visits Notre-Dame

Notre-Dame ❮❮ 23 SAVING NOTRE-DAME Paris’s great cathedral has had a history of deterioration and restoration. When Victor Hugo’s novel Notre-Dame de Paris (The Hunchback of Notre-Dame) was published in 1831, the cathedral was in a state of decay. Even Novelist Victor Hugo for the crowning of Napoleon in 1804, the crumbling setting had to be disguised with ornamentation. During the Revolution, the cathedral was sold to a scrap dealer, though fortunately not demolished. Hugo was intent on saving France’s spiritual heart and helped mount a campaign to restore Notre-Dame before it was too late; Eugène Emmanuel Viollet-le-Duc (1814–79) was chosen for the restoration. Repairs began again in 2019 before the cathedral was damaged by fire. Within 24 hours of the blaze, President Macron vowed to rebuild Notre-Dame and more than €800 million was raised. At the same time, sales of Hugo’s iconic novel rocketed, prompting French booksellers to ask for profits from renewed sales to be directed towards the restoration.

TOP 10

EVENTS IN NOTREDAME HISTORY

1 Construction of the cathedral begins (1163) 2 St Louis places the Crown of Thorns here temporarily (1239) 3 Construction is completed (1334) 4 Retrial of Joan of Arc (1455) 5 Revolutionaries loot the cathedral and make it a Temple of Reason (1789) 6 Crowning of Emperor Napoleon (1804) 7 Restoration work is completed (1864) 8 Mass for the Liberation of Paris (1944) 9 New bells with a medieval tone mark the 850th anniversary (2013) 10 Fire destroys the spire and roof (2019)

The Hunchback of Notre-Dame, Hugo’s 1831 novel, tells the story of Quasimodo, a hunchbacked bell-ringer at Notre-Dame, who falls in love with gypsy girl Esmeralda.

24 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights

Eiffel Tower The most distinctive symbol of Paris, the Eiffel Tower was much maligned by critics when it appeared on the city’s skyline in 1889 as part of the Universal Exhibition, but its graceful symmetry soon made it the star attraction. A feat of engineering, at 324 m (1,062 ft) high, it was the world’s tallest building until it was surpassed by New York’s Chrysler Building in 1930. Despite its delicate appearance, it weighs 10,100 metric tons and engineer Gustave Eiffel’s construction was so sound that it never sways more than 7 cm (2.5 in) in strong winds.

3 Lighting Some 20,000 bulbs and 336 lamps make the Eiffel Tower (left) a spectacular night-time sight. It sparkles like a giant Christmas tree for five minutes every hour from dusk until 1am.

from the 4 View Trocadéro

Day or night, the best approach for a first-time view of the tower is from the Trocadéro (see p142), which affords a monumental vista from the Chaillot terrace across the Seine.

Eiffel’s Office 1 Gustave Located at the top of the tower is Gustave Eiffel’s office, which has been restored to its original condition. It displays wax models of Thomas Edison and Eiffel himself.

Level 2 First 5 Viewing Gallery You can walk the 345 steps up to the 57-m(187-ft-) high first level and enjoy a hearty meal at the all-day brasserie. This level also includes glass floors and educational displays.

At 276 m (906 ft), the stupendous view (right) stretches for 80 km (50 miles) on a clear day. You can also see Gustave Eiffel’s sitting room on this level.

The iconic Eiffel Tower

Eiffel Tower ❮❮ 25

7 Champ-de-Mars The long gardens of this former parade ground stretch from the base of the tower to the École Militaire (military school).

8 Ironwork The complex pattern of the girders (above), held together by 2.5 million rivets, stabilizes the tower in high winds. The metal can expand up to 15 cm (6 in) on hot days.

Lift 9 Hydraulic Mechanism

Level 6 Second At 116 m (380 ft) high, this level is the location of Le Jules Verne restaurant, one of the finest in Paris for food and views (see p123). It is reached by a private lift in the south pillar.

The 1899 lift mechanism is still in operation and travels some 103,000 km (64,000 miles) a year. The uniformed guard clinging to the outside is a model.

of 0 Bust Gustave Eiffel This bust of the tower’s creator (below), by Antoine Bourdelle, was placed below his achievement, by the north pillar, in 1929.

THE LIFE OF GUSTAVE EIFFEL Born in Dijon, Gustave Eiffel (1832–1923) was an engineer and builder who made his name building bridges and viaducts, and helped in the design of the Statue of Liberty. Eiffel was famous for the graceful designs and master craftsmanship of his many wrought-iron constructions. He once said that his famous tower was “formed by the wind itself”. In 1890 he became immersed in the study of aerodynamics, and kept an office in the tower until his death, using it for experiments. In 1889, when the Eiffel Tower was erected, its creator was awarded the Légion d’Honneur.

NEED TO KNOW MAP B4 • Champ de Mars, 7e • 08 92 70 12 39 • www.toureiffel.paris Open Lift 9:30am– 11:45pm daily; last adm for top 10:30pm (Jul– Aug: 9am–12:45am; last adm 11pm); Stairs 9:30am–6:30pm daily; last adm 6pm (Jul–Aug: 9:30am–12:45am; last adm midnight) Adm €10.40–€25.90 (stairs & elevators only); €2.60–€6.50 for 4–11s; €5.20–€13 for 12–24s There are restaurants and snack bars on levels 1 and 2, along with a Champagne bar on level 3, plus food kiosks around the base.

•

Skip the queue and book the ticket online or opt for a tour (cultival.fr).

•

26 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights

Sacré-Coeur One of the city’s most photographed sights, the spectacular white basilica of Sacré-Coeur (Sacred Heart) watches over Paris from its highest point. The basilica was built as a memorial to the 58,000 French soldiers killed during the Franco-Prussian War (1870–71). It took 46 years to build and was finally completed in 1923 at a cost of 40 million francs (6 million euros). Priests still pray for the souls of the dead here, 24 hours a day, as they have since 1885. People flock here for the breathtaking panoramic views – at sunset, in particular, there are few sights in Paris more memorable. Mosaic 1 Great of Christ

A glittering Byzantine mosaic of Christ, created by Luc Olivier Merson between 1912 and 1922, decorates the vault over the chancel. It represents France’s devotion to the Sacred Heart.

Doors 3 Bronze The doors of the portico entrance

are beautifully decorated with bronze relief sculptures depicting the Last Supper and other scenes from the life of Christ.

Dome 4 The The distinctive Vaults 2 Crypt The arched vaults of the crypt (above) house a chapel that contains the heart of Alexandre Legentil, one of the advocates of Sacré-Coeur.

egg-shaped dome of the basilica is the second-highest viewpoint in Paris after the Eiffel Tower. Reached via a spiral staircase, vistas can stretch as far as 48 km (30 miles) on a clear day.

of 5 Statue Christ

The basilica’s most important statue shows Christ giving a blessing. It is symbolically placed in a niche over the main entrance, above the two bronze equestrian statues.

Sacré-Coeur ❮❮ 27

6 Stained-Glass Gallery One level of the great dome is encircled by stained-glass windows (right). From here there is a beautiful view over the whole interior.

Tower 7 Bell The campanile,

designed by Lucien Magne and added in 1904, is 80 m (262 ft) high. One of the heaviest bells in the world, the 19-ton La Savoyarde hangs in the belfry. Cast in Annecy in 1895, it was donated by the dioceses of Savoy.

8 Façade Architect Paul

Abadie (1812–1884) employed a mix of domes, turrets and Classical features in his design of this basilica. The Château-Landon stone secretes calcite when wet and so it keeps the façade (left) bleached white.

NEED TO KNOW MAP F1 • 35 Rue du Chevalierde-la-Barre, 75018 • 01 53 41 89 00 • www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com Basilica: open 6am–10:30pm daily, last entry 10:15pm

THE FRANCOPRUSSIAN WAR In 1870, as Prussia made moves to take over the rest of Germany, France was also threatened by its military power. France declared war on Prussia in July, but the country was ill-prepared and in September Napoleon III was captured. Parisians held fast, defending their city with homemade weapons and eating dogs and cats. But by January 1871 they surrendered. Two Catholic businessmen made a vow in 1870 to build a church dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus as penance as they felt that France’s misfortune had a spiritual cause.

0 Equestrian Statues

Two striking bronze statues of French saints stand on the portico above the main entrance, cast in 1927 by Hippolyte Lefèbvre. One statue is of Joan of Arc, while the other is of Louis IX, who was later canonized as Saint Louis.

Funicular 9 The To avoid the steep climb up to

Sacré-Coeur, take the funiculaire cable railway (below) and enjoy the views at leisure. It runs from the end of rue Foyatier, near Square Willette.

Dome: open Oct–Feb: 10am–5:30pm daily; Mar–May: 9:30am–7pm daily; Jun–Sep: 9am–8:30pm daily; adm €8 • Grab a bite on the terrace at Le St-Jean on 23 Rue des Abbesses and watch the world go by.

An evocative sung Mass takes place on Sundays at 11am.

•

Following pages Arc de Triomphe illuminated at dusk

30 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights

Arc de Triomphe The best day to visit the world’s most familiar triumphal arch is 2 December, the date that marks Napoleon’s victory at the Battle of Austerlitz in 1805. Work began on the 50-m (164-ft) arch in 1806 but was not completed until 1836, due, in part, to Napoleon’s fall from power. Four years later, Napoleon’s funeral procession passed beneath it, on its way to his burial in Les Invalides. Traffic is banned along the Champs-Elysées on the first Sunday of the month, making it easier to access and get that perfect photo of the Arc de Triomphe.

of the 4 Tomb Unknown Soldier

In the centre of the arch flickers the eternal flame on the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (left), a victim of World War I buried on 11 November 1920. It is symbolically reignited every day at 6:30pm.

1 Museum 5 Viewing Platform Within the arch is a small but interesting museum which tells the history of its construction and gives details of various celebrations and funerals that the arch has seen over the years. The more recent of these are shown in a short video.

of the 2 Departure Volunteers in 1792

One of the most striking sculptures is on the front right base. It shows French citizens leaving to defend their nation against Austria and Prussia.

of 3 Triumph Napoleon

As you look at the arch from the Champs-Elysées (see p111), J P Cortot’s high-relief on the left base shows the restored Triumph of Napoleon. It celebrates the Treaty of Vienna peace agreement signed in 1810, when Napoleon’s empire was in its heyday.

Take the elevator or climb 284 steps to the top of the Arc de Triomphe to get a sublime view (below) of Paris and a sense of the arch’s dominant position in the centre of the Place de l’Etoile. To the east is the Champs-Elysées and to the west is the Grande Arche de La Défense (see p155). There are another Arc de Triomphe 40 steps after the lift.

Arc de Triomphe ❮❮ 31 of Austerlitz 7 Battle Another battle victory is

of Aboukir 6 Battle Above the Triumph of Napoleon

carving is this scene (above) showing Napoleonic victory over the Turks in 1799. The same victory was commemorated on canvas in 1806 by the French painter Antoine Gros and is now on display at the Palace of Versailles (see p155).

shown on a frieze on the arch’s north side. It depicts Napoleon’s heavily outnumbered troops breaking the ice on Lake Satschan in Austria, a tactic which drowned thousands of enemy troops.

8 Frieze A frieze running around the arch shows French troops departing for battle (east) and their victorious return (west). THE GREAT AXIS The Arc de Triomphe is the central of three arches; together they create a grand vision of which even Napoleon would have been proud. He was responsible for the first two, placing the Arc de Triomphe directly in line with the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel in front of the Louvre (see pp12–15), which also celebrates the victory at Austerlitz. In 1989, the trio was completed with the Grande Arche de La Défense. The 8km-long (5-mile) Grand Axe (Great Axis) runs from here to the Louvre’s Pyramid.

9 General Marceau’s Funeral

NEED TO KNOW MAP B2 • Pl Charles-deGaulle, 75008 • 01 55 37 73 77 (enquiries) • www.parisarc-de-triomphe.fr/en Open 10am–10:45pm daily; pre-booking a timed entry slot is essential Adm €13 (under 18s, EU 18–25s free) An installation by environmental artist

•

Christo will see the arch wrapped in recyclable fabric and rope from 18 September to 3 October 2021. Check christojeanneclaude.net for details.

Marceau died in battle against the Austrian army in 1796, after a famous victory against them the previous year. His funeral is depicted in a frieze located above the Departure of the Volunteers in 1792.

Enjoy the old-world charm of Le Fouquet (99 Ave des Champs-Elysées).

Shields 0 Thirty Immediately below

•

Arch access is via the underground tunnel only.

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the top of the arch runs a row of 30 shields, each carrying the name of a Napoleonic victory.

32 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights

Centre Georges Pompidou Today it’s one of the world’s most famous pieces of modern architecture. When the Pompidou Centre opened in 1977, however, architects Richard Rogers and Renzo Piano startled everyone by turning the building “inside out”, with brightly coloured pipes displayed on the façade. Designed as a crosscultural arts complex, it houses the excellent Musée National d’Art Moderne (Modern Art Museum), as well as two cinemas, a library, shops and performance space. The outside forecourt is a popular gathering spot for tourists and locals alike.

1 Pipes 5 Bookshop Part of the shock factor of the The ground-floor bookshop sells Pompidou Centre is that the utility a range of postcards, posters of major pipes are outside the building (below). works in the Modern Art Museum and Not only that, they are vividly coloured: books on artists associated with Paris. bright green for water, yellow for electricity and blue for air conditioning.

Escalator

3

One of the building’s most striking and popular features is the external escalator (right) which climbs, snake-like, up the front of the Centre in its plexiglass tube. The view gets better and better as you rise high above the activity in the Centre’s forecourt, before arriving at the top for the best view of all.

2 Top-Floor View

The view from the top of the Pompidou Centre is spectacular. The Eiffel Tower is visible, as is Montmartre in the north and the monolithic Tour Montparnasse to the south. On clear days views can stretch as far as La Défense (see p155).

Piazza 4 The 6 Stravinsky Fountain Visitors and locals gather in the open space in front of the Centre to enjoy a variety of street performers and the changing installations of sculptures, which are often related to shows at the Centre.

This colourful fountain in Place Igor Stravinsky was designed by Niki de SaintPhalle and Jean Tinguely as part of the Pompidou Centre development. Inspired by composer Stravinsky’s ballet The Firebird (1910), the bird spins and sprays water.

Centre Georges Pompidou ❮❮ 33 l’arc 8 Avec noir (With a Black Arch)

One of the pioneers of Abstract art, artist Vasily Kandinsky (1866–1944) promoted the use of non­natu­ ralist geometric forms. His Avec l’arc noir (1912) features a black line that recalls the douga (wooden arch) of a Russian troika (carriage).

Man with a Guitar

7 Within the Modern Art Museum, this 1914

work (above) by artist Georges Braque (1882–1963) is one of the most striking of the Cubist Movement.

NEED TO KNOW MAP P2 • Pl Georges Pompidou 75004 • 01 44 78 12 33 • www. centrepompidou.fr Museum: 11am–9pm Wed–Mon (to 11pm Thu); closed 1 May; adm €11– 14; free 1st Sun of the month, under-18s free, under-26s (EU only) free Brancusi’s Studio: 2–6pm Wed–Mon The centre’s café has free Wi-Fi access. For something grander, head to Georges, the rooftop brasserie.

•

• Pre-booking a timed entry slot online is essential.

Centre Guide The Centre is home to various institutions. The Museum of Modern Art (Mnam) is on levels 4 and 5, and there is a cinema on level 1 and in the basement. Check at the information desk or on the website for details about the temporary shows (level 6), rehangs of works and the contemporary art “happenings”. Displays at the Mnam often change and some works are now shared with its sister institution in Metz.

n°3 0 Compositie Together with

Piet Mondrian, Dutch painter Bart van der Leck (1876–1958) founded the De Stijl style, The Romanian sculptor Constantin an abstract approach in which colours are limited Brancusi (1876– 1957) left his entire and forms created with studio to the state. horizontal and vertical lines. The figurative basis It has been recon­ structed (left) in the for his work Compositie Piazza, and displays n°3 is believed to have his abstract works. been harvesters.

9 Brancusi’s Studio

34 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights

The Panthéon Paris’s Panthéon is a fitting final resting place for the nation’s great figures. Originally built as a church at the behest of Louis XV, it was completed in 1790 and was intended to look like the Pantheon in Rome, but more closely resembles St Paul’s Cathedral in London. During the Revolution it was used as a mausoleum. Napoleon returned it to the Church in 1806 and it became a public building in 1885. Dome

1 Crypt The crypt (above)

is eerily impressive in its scale, compared to most tiny, dark church crypts. Here lie the tombs and memorials to worthy French citizens, including the prolific French writer Emile Zola (see p49).

4

Inspired by Sir Christopher Wren’s design for St Paul’s Cathedral in London, as well as by the Dôme Church at Les Invalides (see p38), this ironframed dome (right) is made up of three layers. At the top, a narrow opening lets in only a tiny amount of natural light, in keeping with the building’s sombre purpose.

5 Dome Galleries

A staircase leads to the galleries immediately below the dome itself, Frescoes affording spectacular of Sainte 360-degree panoramic Geneviève views of Paris. The pillars surrounding Delicate murals by 19thcentury artist Pierre Puvis the galleries are de Chavannes, on the south both decorative and functional, providing wall of the nave, tell the essential support for story of Sainte Geneviève, the dome. the patron saint of Paris. She is believed to have saved the city from invasion in 451 by Attila the Hun and his hordes through the power of her prayers.

2

Façade

3

The Panthéon’s façade (right) was inspired by Roman architecture. The 22 Corinthian columns support both the portico roof and bas-reliefs.

6 Women One of five

women buried in the Panthéon, Simone Veil, a Holocaust survivor and French politician, was the latest to be laid here in 2018.

The Panthéon ❮❮ 35 Pendulum 7 Foucault’s In 1851 French physicist Jean Foucault

(1819–68) followed up an earlier experiment to prove the Earth’s rotation by hanging his famous pendulum from the dome of the Panthéon. The plane of the pendulum’s swing rotated 11° clock­ wise each hour in relation to the floor, thereby proving Foucault’s theory.

LOUIS BRAILLE One of the most influential citizens buried in the Panthéon is Louis Braille (1809–52). Braille became blind at the age of three. He attended the National Institute for the Young Blind and was a gifted student. He continued at the Institute as a teacher and, in 1829, had the idea of adapting a coding system in use by the army, by turning words and letters into raised dots on card. Reading Braille has transformed the lives of blind people ever since. The Panthéon 4 1

0

6 7 2 5 9

3

NEED TO KNOW

8

Relief 8 Pediment The bas­relief above the

Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6:30pm daily (Oct–Mar: to 6pm); closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 & 11 Nov, 25 Dec

entrance shows a female figure, representing France, handing out laurels to the great men of the nation – the same way that Greeks and Romans honoured their heroes.

Adm €11.50, concession €9 (under-18s & EU under-26s free)

of Voltaire 9 Tomb A statue (left) of the

MAP N6 • Pl du Panthéon, 75005 • 01 44 32 18 00 • www. paris-pantheon.fr/en

Stop at La Crêperie (12 Rue Soufflot; open 7am–midnight, from 8am Sun) for crêpes or coffee.

•

Pre-booking a timed entry slot online is essential.

•

From April to October, visitors can visit the dome for an extra fee.

•

great writer, wit and philo­ sopher Voltaire (1694–1788) stands in front of his tomb.

of 0 Tomb Victor Hugo

The body of the French author (see p23) was carried to the Panthéon in a pauper’s hearse, at his own request.

36 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights

Sainte-Chapelle This Gothic masterpiece is considered the most beautiful church in Paris, not least for its renovated 15 stained-glass windows soaring 15 m (50 ft) to a star-covered vaulted ceiling. It was built by Louis IX (1214–70) as a shrine for his holy relics of the Passion and completed in 1248. The church was damaged during the 1789 Revolution but restored in the mid-19th century.

1 Window of Christ’s Passion

Chapel 5 Upper Entrance

As you emerge, via a spiral staircase, into this airy space (right), the effect of light and colour is utterly breath­ taking. The 13th­century stained­glass windows, the oldest surviving in Lower Chapel Paris, separated by stone Intended for use columns, depict biblical by the king’s servants, scenes from Genesis right and dedicated to the through to the Crucifixion. Virgin Mary, this chapel To “read” the windows, (below) is not as light start in the lower left and lofty as the Upper panel and follow each Chapel but is still a row left to right, from magnificent sight. bottom to top.

Located above the apse, this stained­ glass depiction of the Crucifixion is the most beautiful win­ dow in the chapel.

2

Spire 6 The The open latticework and pencil­thin shape give the flèche (spire) a very delicate appearance. In fact, three earlier church spires burned down – this one was erected in 1853 and rises 75 m (245 ft) into the air.

Portal 3 Main Like the Upper Chapel, the main portal has two tiers. Its pinnacles are decorated with a crown of thorns as a symbol of the relics within.

Rose Window

4

The Flamboyant rose window (right), depicting St John’s vision of the Apocalypse in 86 panels, was a gift from Charles VIII in 1485. The green and yellow hues are brightest at sunset.

Sainte-Chapelle ❮❮ 37 Louis’ Oratory 7 St 9 Seats of the In the late 14th century Louis XI added an oratory where he could watch Mass through a small grille in the wall. The chapel originally adjoined the Conciergerie, the former royal palace on the Ile de la Cité (see p79).

8 Evening Concerts

Sainte-Chapelle has excellent acoustics. From March until November, classical concerts are held here several evenings a week.

RELICS OF THE PASSION Louis IX, later St Louis, was the only French king to be canonized. While on his first Crusade in 1239, he purchased the alleged Crown of Thorns from the Emperor of Constantinople, and subsequently other relics, including pieces of the True Cross, nails from the Crucifixion and a few drops of Christ’s blood, paying almost three times more for them than for the construction of Sainte-Chapelle itself. The relics resided in Notre-Dame and were rescued from the destructive fire in 2019.

Royal Family

During Mass, the royal family sat in niches located in the fourth bays on both sides of the chapel, away from the congregation.

Statues 0 Apostle Beautifully carved

medieval statues of 12 apostles stand on the pillars along the walls. Badly damaged in the Revolution, most have been restored: the bearded apostle (right), fifth on the left, is the only original statue.

NEED TO KNOW

(EU only) free; audio guides €3; €17, joint adm to Conciergerie (see p79); temporary exhibits €1.50 extra; pre-booking a timed entry slot online Open Apr–Sep: 9am–7pm is essential. daily (Oct–Mar: to 5pm) (Opening hours can vary, • To experience a little check website for details) 1920s-style elegance, try the old-fashioned Adm €11.50, concession €9; under-18s and 18–25s Brasserie Les Deux

MAP N3 • 6 Blvd du Palais, 75001 • 01 53 40 60 97 • www.saintechapelle.fr/en

Palais on the corner of the Boulevard du Palais and Rue de Lutèce for traditional Parisian fare. A pair of binoculars comes in handy if you want to catch a glimpse of the church’s uppermost glass panels.

•

38 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights

Hôtel des Invalides The “invalides” for whom this imposing Hôtel was built were wounded soldiers of the late 17th century. Louis XIV had the building constructed between 1671 and 1678, and veterans are still housed here, although only a dozen or so compared to the original 4,000. They share their home with arguably the most famous French soldier of them all, Napoleon Bonaparte, whose body rests in a crypt directly below the golden dome of the Dôme Church. Other buildings accommodate military offices, the Musée de l’Armée and smaller military museums.

1 Invalides Gardens

The approach to the Hôtel is across public gardens and then through a gate into the Invalides Gardens themselves. Designed in 1704, their paths are lined by 17th- and 18th-century cannons.

Dome 3 Golden The second church at the hôtel was

begun in 1677 and took 27 years to build. Its magnificent dome stands 107 m (351 ft) high and glistens as much now as it did when Louis XIV, the Sun King, had it first gilded in 1715.

de l’Armée 4 Musée The Army Museum (see p119) is one of the

largest collections of militaria in the world (left). Enthusiasts will be absorbed for hours, and even the casual visitor will be fascinated by the exhibits. The Département Moderne, which traces military history from Louis XIV to Napoleon III, is also worth a visit.

Dôme Church Ceiling

2

The colourful, circular painting on the interior of the dome (right) above the crypt is the Saint Louis in Glory painted in 1692 by the French artist Charles de la Fosse. Near the centre is St Louis, who represents Louis XIV, presenting his sword to Christ in the presence of the Virgin Mary and angels.

Hôtel des Invalides ❮❮ 39

7 Napoleon’s Tomb

Napoleon’s body was brought here from St Helena in 1840, some 19 years after he died. He rests in grandeur in a cocoon of six coffins (left), almost “on the banks of the Seine”, as was his last wish.

Hôtel des Invalides 1 5 4 0 9 2 3 6

8

7

des Invalides 5 Hôtel Tombs One of the loveliest sights 8 Church Encircling the Dôme Church are the in Paris, the Classical façade of the Hôtel (below) is four floors high and 196 m (645 ft) end to end. Features include the dormer windows with their variously shaped shield surrounds.

imposing tombs of great French military men, such as Marshal Foch and Marshal Vauban, who revolutionized military fortifications and siege tactics.

9 St-Louisdes-Invalides

Adjoining the Dôme Church is the Invalides complex’s original church, worth seeing for its 17th-century organ, on which the first performance of Berlioz’s Requiem was given.

des 0 Musée Plans-Reliefs de l’Ordre de la Libération 6 Musée The Order of Liberation, France’s highest

military honour, was created by Général de Gaulle in 1940 to acknowledge contributions during World War II. The museum details the history of the honour and the wartime Free French movement.

NEED TO KNOW

Adm €14; under-18s free;

MAP D4 129 Rue de Grenelle, 75007 or 6 Blvd des Invalides, 75007 • 01 44 42 38 77 • www.musee-armee.fr

under-26s (EU only) free;

Open 10am–6pm daily (to 9pm Tue during temporary exhibitions); closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec; pre-booking a timed entry slot online is recommended

metro station and the

•

audio guides €5 •

Le Café du Musée,

between the Varenne Musée Rodin (see p120), is known for its various cocktails. It is a lovely spot for a drink.

Maps and models of French forts and fortified towns are displayed here. Some of them are beautifully detailed, such as the oldest model on display, of Perpignan, dating from 1686.

Hôtel Guide Approach from the Seine for the best view, and then walk around to the ticket office on the south side. You will need a ticket for the museums and to see Napoleon’s Tomb. If time is short, concentrate on the Musée de l’Armée, before walking through to the cobbled courtyard in front of the Dôme Church.

The Top 10 of Everything

The elaborate interior of the Opéra National de Paris Garnier

Moments in History

42

Off the Beaten Track

58

Historic Buildings

44

Children’s Attractions

60

Places of Worship

46

Entertainment Venues

64

Novels Set in Paris

48

Fine Dining

66

Museums

50

Cafés and Bars

68

Art Galleries

52

Shops and Markets

70

Riverfront Sights

54

Paris for Free

72

Parks and Gardens

56

Festivals and Events

74

42 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Moments in History of the Parisii 1 Arrival Although the remains of

Neolithic settlements have been found dating back to 4500 BC, the first inhabitants are considered to be a Celtic tribe called the Parisii, who settled on the Ile de la Cité in the 3rd century BC. Hunters and fishermen, they named their village Lutetia, meaning “boatyard on a river”. The tribe minted their own gold coins and a pagan altar has been found beneath Notre-Dame.

Settlement 2 Roman The Romans conquered the

Parisii in 52 BC and rebuilt their city as an administrative centre on the Left Bank. The baths in the Musée National du Moyen Age (see p50) and the amphitheatre in Rue Monge are the only remains of the city’s Roman incarnation as Lutetia. In AD 360 the Roman prefect was declared emperor and Lutetia was renamed Paris, after its original inhabitants.

invasion by Attila the Hun. She became the patron saint of Paris. But in 476 the Franks captured the city, Christianity became the official religion and Paris the capital of their new kingdom, France.

4 Charlemagne, Holy Roman Emperor

In 751 the Carolingian dynasty became rulers of France when Pepin the Short ascended the throne. His heir Charlemagne was crowned Holy Roman Emperor in 800 and moved the capital to Aix-la-Chapelle (now the city of Aachen). Paris fell into decline until Hugues Capet became king in 987, moving the capital back to his home city.

of France 3 Founding Roman rule weakened under

barbarian attacks. In 450 the prayers of a young nun, Geneviève, were credited with saving the city from

St Bartholomew’s Day Massacre

Bartholomew’s Day 5 StMassacre

Catherine de Médicis, Henri II’s queen, bore three French kings and one queen, Marguerite de Valois, who married the Protestant Henri of Navarre in August 1572. Catherine plotted to massacre the Protestant nobles who attended the wedding. The killings began on 24 August and thousands died. Henri of Navarre survived and later became Henri IV, the first Bourbon king.

Revolution 6 French Following decades of royal

Ste Geneviève, patron saint of Paris

excess and the growing gulf between rich and poor, Paris erupted into Revolution with the storming of the Bastille prison in 1789.

Moments in History ❮❮ 43 Coronation 7 Napoleon’s As Paris rose from the ashes

of Revolution, a young general from Corsica, Napoleon Bonaparte (see p22), saved the city from a royalist revolt, then led military victories in Italy and Egypt. He crowned himself Emperor of France in Notre-Dame in 1804.

TOP 10 EVENTS IN THE FRENCH REVOLUTION

Second Empire 8 The In 1851, Napoleon’s nephew,

Louis-Napoleon, seized power as Emperor Napoleon III. He appointed Baron Haussmann to oversee the massive building and public works projects that transformed Paris into the most glorious city in Europe. The wide boulevards, many public buildings, parks, the sewer system and the first department stores date from between 1852 and 1870.

Paris Commune 9 The Following France’s defeat in

the Franco-Prussian War (see p27) in 1871, many citizens rejected the harsh terms of the surrender and a left-wing group revolted, setting up the Paris Commune. But, after 72 days, government troops marched on the city. In a week of brutal street fighting (21–28 May), much of the city burned and thousands of rebellious citizens were killed.

of Paris 0 Liberation The occupation of France

by Germany during World War II was a dark period for Paris. The city was the centre for the French Resistance. Allied forces liberated Paris on 25 August 1944; just two days earlier, the German commander Von Choltitz had ignored Adolf Hitler’s order to burn the city to the ground.

Storming of the Bastille 1 14 July 1789 The storming of the Bastille prison, a symbol of repression, launches the Revolution. 2 4 August 1789 The abolition of feudalism, and the right of everyone to be a free citizen, is declared. 3 26 August 1789 Formal declaration of the Rights of Man and the Citizen, which incorporated the ideals of equality and dignity, later subsumed into the 1791 Constitution. 4 October 1789 Citizens march on Versailles and the royal family returns to Paris to be imprisoned in the Tuileries Palace. 5 20 June 1791 King Louis XVI and his family try to escape but are spotted in Varenne and return to Paris as captives. 6 10 August 1792 A mob storms the Tuileries and the royals are imprisoned in the Temple. 7 21 September 1792 The monarchy is formally abolished and the First Republic is proclaimed. 8 1792–4 “The Terror” reigns, under the radical Commune led by Robespierre, Danton and Marat. Thousands are executed by guillotine. 9 21 January 1793 Louis XVI is found guilty of treason and executed. His queen Marie-Antoinette follows him to the guillotine on 16 October. 10 28 July 1794 Robespierre is guillotined, marking the end of The Terror, and the Revolution draws to a close.

The Liberation of Paris

44 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Historic Buildings des Invalides 1 Hôtel See pp38–9. 2 Versailles Louis XIV turned his father’s old

hunting lodge into the largest palace (see p155) in Europe and moved his court here in 1678. It was the royal residence for more than a century until Louis XVI and his queen MarieAntoinette fled during the Revolution.

3 Conciergerie Originally home to the keeper

of the king's mansion and guards of the Palais de Justice, the Conciergerie (see p79) became a prison at the end of the 14th century. More than 4,000 citizens (including Marie-Antoinette) were held prisoner here during the Revolution, half of whom were guillotined. It remained a prison until 1914.

de Ville 4 Hôtel MAP P3 4 Pl de l’Hôtel de Ville, •

75001 • 01 42 76 40 40 • Open for group tours and temporary exhibitions (booking essential: 01 42 76 54 04) Paris’s city hall sports an elaborate façade, with ornate stonework, statues and a turreted roof. It is a 19thcentury reconstruction of the original town hall, which was burned down during the Paris Commune (see p43) of 1871. Though the square in front is pleasant now, it was once the site of executions: Ravaillac, assassin of Henri IV, was quartered alive here in 1610.

Central courtyard of the Hôtel Dieu

Dieu 5 Hôtel MAP N4 1 Parvis Notre•

Dame–Pl Jean-Paul II, 75004 The Hôtel Dieu, now the hospital for central Paris, was built on the site of a foundling home in 1866–78; the original 12th-century building on the Ile de la Cité was demolished during the urban renewal schemes of the 19th century. Plans are underway to modernize and repurpose part of the historic building, while retaining current hospital services.

de Justice 6 Palais The enormous building that

now houses the French law courts (see p80) and judiciary dates back to the Roman times and was the royal Hôtel de Ville façade

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has been the official residence of the President of the French Republic since 1873. It was built as a private mansion in 1718 and was owned by Madame de Pompadour, mistress of Louis XV, who extended the English­ style gardens as far as the Champs­ Elysées. After the Battle of Waterloo in 1815, Napoleon signed his second and final abdication here.

8 Palais-Royal This former royal palace (see

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du Luxembourg 0 Palais MAP L6 15 Rue de Vaugirard, •

75006 • 01 42 34 20 00 • Open for reserved group tours only (visites@ senat.fr); gardens: open dawn– dusk daily Marie de Médicis had architect Salomon de Brosse model this palace after her childhood home, the Pitti Palace in Florence. Shortly after its completion she was exiled by her son, Louis XIII. It was seized from the Crown during the Revolution to become a prison and it now houses the French Senate. Nearby is the Musée du Luxembourg.

p104), originally called the Palais­ Cardinal, now houses State offices. It was built by Cardinal Richelieu in 1632, passing to the Crown on his death 10 years later, and was the childhood home of Louis XIV. The dukes of Orléans acquired it in the 18th century.

Sorbonne 9 La The city’s great university (see

p125) had humble beginnings in 1253 as a college for 16 poor students to study theology. France’s first printing house was also established here

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Palais du Luxembourg

46 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Places of Worship 1 Notre-Dame See pp20–23. 2 Sacré-Coeur See pp26–7. 3 Sainte-Chapelle Although this lovely chapel

in 1637 and its cavernous interior displays the architectural style of the early Renaissance. Popular Sunday afternoon organ recitals and other classical concerts take place in this wonderfully atmospheric setting.

(see pp36–7) is no longer used for worship, the soaring stained-glass windows encourage reverence.

du Dôme 4 Eglise The final resting place of

Napoleon Bonaparte is the beautiful Dôme Church in the Hôtel des Invalides (see pp38–9) complex – an elaborate monument in French Classical style. Built as the chapel for the resident soldiers of the Invalides, its ornate high altar is in stark contrast to the solemn marble chapels surrounding the crypt, which hold the tombs of French military leaders. Its golden dome can be seen for miles around.

5 St-Eustache For centuries, this Gothic

edifice (see p85) was the market church serving the traders of Les Halles. Taking more than 100 years to build, it was finally completed St-Eustache

Façade of La Madeleine

Madeleine 6 La MAP D3 Pl de la Madeleine, •

75008 • Open 9:30am–7pm daily (services vary) Designed in the style of a Greek temple in 1764, this prominent church in Paris’s financial district, on the edge of the Opéra Quarter, is one of the city’s most distinctive sights, spectacularly surrounded by 52 Corinthian columns. The church was consecrated to Mary Magdalene in 1845. The bronze doors, which include bas-reliefs of the Ten Commandments, and the Last Judgment on the south pediment, are exterior highlights, while the ornate marble and gold interior has many fine statues, including François Rude’s Baptism of Christ. It is also a popular venue for classical concerts.

Panthéon 7 The Modelled on the

Pantheon in Rome, this domed late 18thcentury church (see pp34–5) only served as a house of worship for two years, before becoming a monument and burial place for the great and the good of

Places of Worship ❮❮ 47 North Africa. There is also a shaded interior courtyard where visitors can sit and sip a glass of mint tea.

the Revolution era. Later distinguished citizens are also buried here.

Synagogue 8 Grande de la Victoire

0 St-Sulpice Outstanding frescoes in the

MAP E2 • 44 Rue de la Victoire, 75009 • Open Mon–Fri mornings for group tours (call 01 45 26 95 36) Built in the late 19th century, this elaborate synagogue is the second largest in Europe. The building is open only to those wishing to attend services and to groups who have arranged a visit in advance. Other smaller synagogues can be found in the Marais, which has long had a large Jewish community, including one at 10 rue Pavée, built in 1913 by Hector Guimard, the architect who designed the city’s magnificent Art Nouveau metro stations.

Chapel of the Angels by Eugène Delacroix are the highlight of this 17th-century church (see p125). With more than 6,500 pipes, its organ, designed by Jean-François Chalgrin in 1776, is one of the largest in the world. The novelist Victor Hugo married his childhood sweetheart Adèle Foucher here in 1822.

Mosquée 9 Grande de Paris

The city’s Grand Mosque (see p136) was built during the 1920s as a tribute to North African Muslims who gave military support to France during World War I. Its beautiful Hispano-Moorish architecture, including a minaret, was executed by craftsmen brought over from

St-Sulpice church organ

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48 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Novels Set in Paris Père Goriot 4 Le Honoré de Balzac (1799–1850)

chronicled Parisian life masterfully in his 80-volume La comédie humaine series, and this novel of 1835 is certainly among his finest. Balzac’s former home (see p142) at 47 rue Raynouard in the 16th arrondissement, where he lived from 1840 to 1847, is open to the public.

Education 5 Sentimental Gustave Flaubert (1821–80)

Performance of Les Misérables

Misérables 1 Les The 1862 novel by Victor Hugo (1802–85) is an all too vivid portrayal of the poor and the dispossessed in early 19th-century Paris. At its centre is the tale of nobleman Jean Valjean, unfairly victimized by an unjust system. The character of Marius, the young idealist, is based on Hugo’s own experiences as an impoverished student.

Hunchback 2 The of Notre-Dame

Better known by its English title, which inspired a film of the same name, Victor Hugo’s Gothic novel was published in France in 1831 as Notre-Dame de Paris (see p23). Set in the Middle Ages, it tells the strange and moving story of a hunchback bell-ringer, Quasimodo, and his love for Esmeralda.

of Two Cities 3 ATheTale finest chronicler of

19th-century London life, Charles Dickens (1812–70) chose to set his 1859 novel in London and Paris, against the background of the French Revolution (see p43). His description of conditions in the Bastille prison makes for grim reading.

studied law in Paris but illness disrupted his chosen career and he devoted himself to literature. This work (L’education sentimentale in French), first published in 1870 in two volumes, stands alongside his greatest novel, Madame Bovary (1857), and marks the move away from Romanticism to Realism in French literature.

6 Bel-Ami Guy de

Maupassant (1850–93) published this, one of his best novels, in 1885, criticizing the get-rich-quick Parisian business world of the belle Guy de époque. Widely Maupassant acknowledged as one of the world’s greatest short-story writers, Maupassant is buried in the cemetery at Montparnasse (see p156) in Greater Paris.

Recherche 7 AdulaTemps Perdu

The master work of Marcel Proust (1871–1922) was written in 13 volumes, the first novel appearing in 1913. Proust lived on boulevard Haussmann, and his epic tale is the fictionalized story of his own life, and of Paris during the belle époque. Proust is buried in Père Lachaise Cemetery (see p156) in eastern Paris.

Novels Set in Paris ❮❮ 49 Française 8 Suite The German-occupied Paris of World War II is grippingly recounted in this 2004 bestseller by UkranianJewish author Irène Nemirovsky (1903–42). She wrote her manuscript as the war raged; she was killed at Auschwitz. Her notebooks were rediscovered in the late 1990s, and the book was published to much acclaim.

Certain Smile 9 AFrançoise Sagan (1935–2004)

is perhaps best known for her scandalous 1954 novel, Bonjour Tristesse. Her 1955 novel Un Certain Sourire, which tells of a provincial Sorbonne student who has an affair with a married man, followed in a similar, deliciously wicked vein, its narrator another bold young woman who refused to subscribe to the morals and expectations of a patriarchal society.

Nana

0 Perhaps the greatest Parisian

chronicler of them all, Emile Zola (1840–1902) was born, lived and died in the city, although he spent part of his youth in Aix-en-Provence in southern France. Nana was published in 1880 and tells a shocking tale of sexual decadence, through the eyes of the central character, a dancer and prostitute.

TOP 10 FOREIGN WRITERS WHO LIVED IN PARIS

Ernest Hemingway 1 Ernest Hemingway The US author (1899–1961) wrote A Moveable Feast as an affectionate portrait of his time living in Paris from 1921 to 1926. 2 F. Scott Fitzgerald Like Hemingway, US writer Fitzgerald (1896–1940) lived in Montparnasse and frequented La Coupole (see p131). 3 George Orwell The English novelist (1903–50) tells of his shocking experiences living in poverty in Down and Out in Paris and London (1933). 4 Samuel Beckett The Irish-born playwright (1906–89) lived in Paris from 1928 until his death. 5 Anaïs Nin US novelist Nin (1903–77) met her lover, fellow American Henry Miller, in Paris. Her Diaries tell of her time here. 6 Albert Camus Algerian-born Camus (1913–60) moved to Paris in 1935 and lived here until his death. 7 Henry Miller Miller (1891–1980) showed the seedier side of Paris in his novel Tropic of Cancer (1934). 8 Nancy Mitford The author of The Pursuit of Love (1945) and other novels, Mitford (1904–73) lived in Paris from 1943 until her death. 9 James Joyce Joyce (1882–1941) lived in Paris from 1920 to 1940. Ulysses was published here in 1922 by Shakespeare and Co. 10 Milan Kundera Czech-born Kundera (b.1929) moved to Paris in 1978, writing The Unbearable Lightness of Being here.

Painting of Nana by Edouard Manet

50 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Museums carpets and chairs by Philippe Starck. Also part of the museum is the Musée de la Mode et du Textile, which mounts fashion exhibitions, and the Musée de la Publicité, which has exhibitions on advertising.

du Louvre 4 Musée French and Italian sculpture,

The Lady and the Unicorn, Musée National du Moyen Age

Greek and Roman antiquities and paintings from the 12th to the 19th centuries are just some of the highlights of the world’s largest museum (see pp12–15).

National 1 Musée du Moyen Age

du Quai Branly – 5 Musée Jacques Chirac

This splendid museum (see p126) dedicated to the art of the Middle Ages is known by several names. This includes the Musée de Cluny, after the beautiful mansion in which it is housed, and the Thermes de Cluny, after the Roman baths adjoining the museum. Highlights include the famous “Lady and the Unicorn” tapestries, medieval stained glass and exquisite gold crowns and jewellery.

de l’Armée 2 Musée Part of the Hôtel des

Invalides complex relating to the military history of France, this museum (see pp38–9) has a huge number of military objects from the Middle Ages to World War II. The collection includes armour, artillery, weapons, uniforms and paintings. Admission includes entrance to the Dôme Church, containing the tomb of Napoleon Bonaparte.

des Arts 3 Musée Décoratifs

Set over nine levels, adjoining the west end of the Louvre’s Richelieu Wing, this arts museum (see p104) showcases furniture and tableware from the 12th century to the present. The breathtaking anthology of pieces ranges from Gothic panelling and Renaissance porcelain to 1970s

In a city dominated by Western art, this fabulous museum (see p120) tips the balance in favour of arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Must-sees include the African instruments. The striking Jean Nouvel-designed building is an attraction in itself.

National 6 Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle

Paris’s Natural History Museum (see p135) in the Jardin des Plantes contains a fascinating collection of animal skeletons, plant fossils, minerals and gemstones. Its highlight is the magnificent Grande Galerie de l’Evolution (see p60), which depicts the changing interaction between man and nature during the evolution of life on Earth. Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle

Museums ❮❮ 51 mansions – Carnavalet and Le Peletier de St-Fargeau – both decorated with gilded wood panelling, furniture and objets d’art, including paintings and sculptures of famous personalities, and engravings showing the creation of Paris.

de l’Architecture 9 Cité et du Patrimoine

The Cité de l’Architecture (see p141) and the Musée des Monuments Français showcase French architectural heritage and form one of the world’s great architectural centres. The Galerie des Moulages houses models of great French cathedrals.

Jacquemart0 Musée André

Musée des Arts et Métiers

Set in a private mansion, this museum (see p113) was once the home of Edouard André and his artist wife Nélie Jacquemart. It houses their personal art collection, which features works by Boucher, Botticelli, Rembrandt and Fragonard, as well as excellent temporary exhibits.

des Arts 7 Musée et Métiers MAP G3 • 60 Rue Réaumur, 75003 Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm Fri) • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm • www.arts-et-metiers.net Housed in the Abbaye de St-Martindes-Champs, this industrial design museum is a fascinating repository of printing machines, vintage cars, music boxes, early flying machines, automatons and other inventions. •

Carnavalet 8 Musée The vast collection at this

recently refurbished museum (see p94) charts the history of Paris. The museum occupies two adjoining

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52 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

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d’Orsay in autumn 2015 following a three-year 1 Musée renovation project and a complete See pp16–19. reorganization of the collection. Rodin 2 Musée Picasso On a sunny day, head straight 3 Musée for the gardens of the Musée Rodin The beautiful Hôtel Salé (see p120), next to the Hôtel des Invalides complex, to enjoy some of the French sculptor’s most famous works, including The Thinker and The Burghers of Calais, while strolling among the shady trees and rose bushes. Auguste Rodin (1840– 1917) lived and worked for nine years in the beautiful 18th-century Hôtel Biron, where the rest of the collection is housed. The museum reopened

(see p96) showcases an extensive collection of paintings, sculptures, ceramics, etchings, drawings and other masterpieces by the famous Spanish-born artist Pablo Picasso (1881–1973) – covering all his creative periods. Large sculptures adorn the garden and courtyard while, inside the gorgeous 17th-century mansion (see p93), twice as much as before of the collection is now on display. Be sure not to miss Picasso’s own collection of paintings, including works by Cézanne, Renoir, Matisse and others of his contemporaries, located on the second floor.

de l’Orangerie 4 Musée MAP D3 Jardin des Tuileries, •

The Thinker, Musée Rodin

75001 • Open 9am–6pm Wed–Mon • Closed 1 May, 14 Jul (am), 25 Dec • Adm • www.musee-orangerie.fr The prime exhibits here are eight of Monet’s waterlily canvases (see p16), most of them painted between 1899 and 1921, and the gallery, located in a corner of the Tuileries. The Walter-Guillaume collection covers works by Matisse, Picasso, Modigliani and other modern masters from 1870 to 1930.

Art Galleries ❮❮ 53 National 7 Musée d’Art Moderne

The revolutionary Pompidou Centre (see pp32–3) is the perfect home for France’s Modern Art Museum. It features fascinating works across several levels. Level 5 retraces the history of modern art (between 1905 and 1965) before leading to the contemporary collection on level 4.

Maillol 8 Musée Works of the famous French Fondation Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton 5 Fondation 8 Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne, 75116 • Opening hours vary according to exhibitions and events • Adm • www.fondation louisvuitton.fr Close to the Jardin d’Acclimatation in the Bois de Boulogne (see p159), Frank Gehry’s dramatic glass struc­ ture contains a gallery and event space hosting contemporary arts exhi­ bitions. A shuttle to the arts centre leaves Place Charles de Gaulle every 20 minutes (round­trip tickets €2).

artist Aristide Maillol, including his drawings, engravings, paintings, sculptures and plastercasts, are the focal point of this museum (see p127), which was created by his model, Dina Vierny (1919–2009). Other major artists feature in the temporary exhibitions.

Européenne 9 Maison de la Photographie

If you’re a photography fan, be sure not to miss this splendid gallery (see p95) located in the Marais. Its exhibitions range from portraits to documentary work, retrospectives to contemporary photographers.

de Tokyo 0 Palais de Paume MAP B4 13 Ave du Président 6 Jeu Wilson, 75116 Open noon–midnight MAP D3 1 Pl de la Concorde, •

•

75008 • Opening hours are subject to change, check website • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm • www. jeudepaume.org This gallery is one of the finest exhibition spaces in the city, set within a 19th­century royal tennis court (jeu de paume). It has a strong reputation for showcasing outstanding photog­ raphy, film and video installations.

•

Wed–Mon • Adm • www.palaisde tokyo.com Dedicated to contemporary art, this lively museum in the Chaillot Quarter hosts regularly changing exhibitions and installations by international artists. It is one of the most cutting­edge art houses in Europe and has a bookshop as well as two restaurants.

ON AIR exhibition curated by Rebecca Lamarche-Vadel at Palais de Tokyo

54 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Riverfront Sights

Eiffel Tower and the Seine, viewed from Pont Alexandre III

Tower 1 Eiffel Although the top of the

Eiffel Tower (see pp24–5) can be seen above rooftops across the city, one of the best views of this Paris landmark is from the Seine. The Pont d’Iéna lies at the foot of the tower, bridging the river to link it to the Trocadéro Gardens. The tower, illuminated at night, is a highlight of a dinner cruise on the Seine.

Palais de Chaillot

2 The curved arms of the Palais

de Chaillot (see p141) encircling the Trocadéro Gardens can be seen from the Seine. In the centre of the gardens magnificent fountains spout from the top of a long pool lined with statues, while two huge water cannons spray their charges back towards the river and the Eiffel Tower on the opposite bank.

Flame 3 Liberty MAP C3

fighters of the French Resistance during World War II. It is located on the right bank of the Pont de l’Alma, the bridge over the tunnel where Diana, Princess of Wales, was fatally injured in an automobile crash in 1997. The Liberty Flame has now become her unofficial memorial and is often draped with notes and flowers laid in her honour.

Palais 4 Grand and Petit Palais

Gracing either side of the magnificent Pont Alexandre III are these two splendid exhibition halls (see p111), built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900. The iron Art Nouveau skeleton of the Grand Palais is topped by an enormous glass roof, which is most impressive when illuminated at night. The Petit Palais is smaller but similar in style, with a dome and many Classical features.

Pont Alexandre III A replica of the New York Statue of Liberty’s torch was The most beautiful erected here in 1987 by the bridge (see p112) in Paris International Herald Tribune is the Pont Alexandre III, a riot of Art Nouveau to mark their centenary Liberty Flame by Pont de l’Alma decoration including and honour the freedom

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Eglise de Dôme in the Hôtel des Invalides (see pp38–9) complex can be had from the Pont Alexandre III. The golden dome beckons visitors down the long parkway lined with streetlamps and statues.

du Louvre 7 Musée This grand museum (see

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art gallery (see pp16–19) from the Right Bank of the Seine is one of its finest angles, showing off the arched terminals, great clock faces and grand façade of this former railway station, built in 1898–1900. Architect Victor Laloux designed it to harmonize with the Louvre and Tuileries Quarter across the river.

8 Notre-Dame The great cathedral, although

damaged (see pp20–23), is still majestic when viewed from the Left Bank of the Seine. It rises at the eastern end of the Ile de la Cité above the remains of the ancient tribes who first settled Paris in the 3rd century BC.

9 Conciergerie This huge and imposing

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medieval features on the island, including a torture chamber, kitchens, a clock and the twin towers that rise above the Quai de l’Horloge.

pp12–15) stretches along the river from the Pont Royal to the Pont des Arts. The Denon Wing, which can be seen from the Seine, was largely built during the reigns of Henri IV and Louis XIII in the late 16th and early 17th centuries.

building (see p79), which served as a notorious prison during the French Revolution, commands the western end of the Ile de la Cité. The magnificent building retains some of the few

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cherubs, wreaths, lamps and other elaborate statuary. Built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900, it leads to the Grand Palais and Petit Palais. There are wonderful views of the Invalides complex and the ChampsElysées from the bridge.

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56 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Parks and Gardens

Stately Palais du Luxembourg in the Jardin du Luxembourg

du Luxembourg 1 Jardin Parisians love this centrally

located park (see p125), set around the Palais du Luxembourg. The sweeping terrace is a great place for people-watching, while locals sunbathe around the octagonal Grand Bassin or sail toy boats in the water. Statues are dotted throughout the grounds, and there is a café.

des Tuileries 2 Jardin Now officially part of the

Louvre, these gardens (see p103) were laid out in the 17th century as part of the old Palais de Tuileries. They stretch along the Seine between the Louvre and Place de la Concorde. The walkways are lined with lime and chestnut trees. Statues include bronze figures by Aristide Maillol.

des Plantes 3 Jardin Established as a medicinal

has a boating lake and paths for cycling, jogging and strolling. There are three formal gardens, lakes and waterfalls, and even two horseracing tracks. It’s a good spot for a break from the city bustle.

de Vincennes 5 Bois Another great escape from

the city, this vast park (see p156) is to the east of Paris what the Bois de Boulogne is to the west. A former royal hunting ground, it was landscaped in the 1860s. Now it features ornamental lakes and waterfalls, a zoo, a springtime funfair and horse-racing tracks.

Monceau 6 Parc The most fashionable

green space (see p157) in Paris, full of well-heeled residents of the nearby mansions and apartments. The lush landscaping dates from

herb garden for the king in 1635, these vast botanical gardens (see p135) are a wonderfully tranquil spot. Paths are lined with statuary and mature trees, including the oldest in Paris, grown from the stump of an Acacia robinia dating from 1636.

de Boulogne 4 Bois At the weekends, Parisians

head for this vast park (see p156) on the western edge of the city, which

Classical colonnade in Parc Monceau

Parks and Gardens ❮❮ 57 the 18th century, and some architectural follies, such as the Classical colonnade, survive.

TOP 10 FOUNTAINS

du Palais-Royal 7 Jardin MAP L1 Pl du Palais-Royal, •

75001 These lovely gardens are enclosed by the 18th-century arcades of the Palais-Royal (see p104). Modern sculptures include Daniel Buren’s controversial striped columns.

Clichy-Batignolles 8 Parc 147 Rue Cardinet, 75017 Metro Brochant A relaxed, neighbourhood feel characterizes this park in the heart of the laid-back Batignolles district. It was developed with an eye to ecology and biodiversity. Locals come to skate, play pétanque, tend the community gardens and laze on the lawns, while wildlife and rare flora thrive in the wetlands-like environment. •

Montsouris 9 Parc Blvd Jourdan, 75014 RER Cité Universitaire Located south of Montparnasse, this large park in central Paris was laid out in the English style, atop an old granite quarry, by landscape architect Adolphe Alphand between 1865 and 1878. Hemingway (see p49) and other writers and artists frequented the park in the mid-20th century. It has a jogging path, lake and a bandstand. •

des Buttes0 Parc Chaumont Rue Manin, 75019 • Metro ButtesChaumont • Open Sep–Apr: 7am– 8pm daily; May–Aug: 7am–10pm Mon–Fri, 24 hours Sat & Sun Baron Haussmann created this retreat (see p61) northeast of the city centre in 1867, from what was formerly a rubbish dump. His architects built artificial cliffs, waterfalls, streams and a lake complete with an island crowned by a Roman-style temple. There are fantastic views of the city from this hilly park. In the eastern part of the park is a trendy bar, Rosa Bonheur, which is open until late.

Observatory Fountain 1 Observatory Fountain MAP L6 Jardin du Luxembourg Four bronze statues representing the continents hold aloft a globe. •

2 Four Seasons Fountain MAP C4 Rue de Grenelle Paris in female form looks down on figures representing the Seine and Marne rivers, designed in 1739 by sculptor Edmé Bouchardon. •

3 Fontaine des Innocents Carved by Jean Goujon in 1547, this (see p86) is Paris’s only Renaissance fountain. 4 Medici Fountain MAP L6 Jardin du Luxembourg This ornate 17th-century fountain with a pond was built for Marie de Médicis. •

5 Molière Fountain MAP E3 Rue de Richelieu This 19th-century fountain honours the French playwright. •

6 Agam Fountain La Défense RER La Défense Jewish architect Yaacov Agam designed this fountain of water and lights. •

7 Châtelet Fountain MAP N3 Pl du Châtelet The two sphinxes of this 1808 fountain are appropriate to commemorate Napoleon’s victory in Egypt. •

8 Stravinsky Fountain Birds squirt water from this colourful Pompidou Centre fountain (see p32). 9 Trocadéro Fountains Spouting towards the Eiffel Tower (see pp24–5), these fountains are illuminated at night. 10 Versailles Fountains The fountains at Versailles (see p155) flow to music at weekends in spring and in summer.

58 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Off the Beaten Track Louvre 3 Little-visited While many flock to the

Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo, canny visitors set out to discover other parts of the Louvre’s collections (see pp12–15), such as the Islamic arts section. Opened in 2012, it includes beautiful Iznik tiles and exquisite glass, gold and ivory objects from Andalusia, Iraq and India – all under a stunning gold filigree roof.

de l’Arsenal 4 Pavillon MAP R5 21 Blvd Morland,

Wall of skulls and bones, Catacombs

•

1 Catacombs 1 Ave du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, 75014 • 01 43 22 47 63 • Open 10am–8:30pm Tue–Sun • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm • www.catacombes.paris.fr The catacombs are an underground warren of tunnels, filled with the bones of some six million Parisians, brought here from 1785 to 1865 as a solution to the problem of overflowing cemeteries. Aside from the macabre sight of walls lined with skulls and bones, it’s a thrill to enter the tunnels, part of a vast quarry network that underlies the city. Limited numbers of visitors are allowed in at a time; pre-book a timed entry slot online.

•

75007 • Cruises dates vary, check website • Adm • www.pariscanal.com A great way to see a different side of Paris is to take a barge along the Seine, the Marne river and Canal St-Martin. Some Paris Canal boats, for example, depart from the quay 0 km

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Starting near the Bastille Opera House (see p65) and ending at Bois de Vincennes, this 4-km (2.5-mile) walkway, much of it high above the streets on a former railway viaduct, is a wonderful way to see a little-visited part of the city. Planted all along with trees and flowers, the path runs past tall mansion blocks, whose decorative mouldings and balconies (not to mention smart interiors) are a treat to see close up.

Barge Cruise 5 Canal MAP J2 12 Port de Solferino,

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75004 • 01 42 76 33 97 • Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sun • www.pavillonarsenal.com A museum dedicated to urban planning and architecture, the Pavillon de l’Arsenal is home to a small but fascinating exhibition illustrating the architectural evolution of Paris. Using film, models and panoramic photographs, it explores how the city has developed over the centuries and what future plans hold.

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Off the Beaten Track ❮❮ 59 outside the Musée d’Orsay (see pp16–19) and make their way westwards to the island of Chatou, once frequented by Impressionist painters, or eastwards past NotreDame to Chennevières-sur-Marne, a favourite haunt of Pissaro.

8 Buttes-aux-Cailles Metro Corvisart

The Butte-aux-Cailles quarter, in the southeast of the city, is a bit like a mini-Montmartre, with its pretty cobbled streets and old-fashioned streetlamps. The main Rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles with its restaurants and bohemian bars buzzes well into the night.

Village 9 Bercy 28 Rue François Truffaut, 75012 • Metro Cour St-Emilion www.bercyvillage.com The district of Bercy is where barges from all over France used to deliver wine to the capital. The former warehouses, a handsome ensemble of ochre-coloured stone buildings, have been converted into shops, restaurants and, fittingly, wine bars. It’s well worth a wander, especially on Sundays when shops in most other parts of Paris are closed. •

Barge on Canal St-Martin

Centquatre-Paris 6 Le 5 Rue Curial, 75019 01 53 35 •

50 00 • Metro Riquet • Open noon– 7pm Tue–Fri, 11am–7pm Sat & Sun • www.104.fr The “104” is a huge arts centre, housed in a converted 19th-century funeral parlour with a lofty glass roof. It contains numerous artists’ studios and workshops, and puts on excellent exhibitions and installations, as well as music, dance, cinema and theatre.

Floral de Paris 7 Parc Route de la Pyramide, 75012 Metro Chateau de Vincennes Open 9:30am–8pm daily (winter: to dusk) • Adm Jun–Sep • www. parcfloraldeparis.com Set within the Bois de Vincennes, this lovely park has wonderful displays of camellias, rhododendrons, ferns and irises. It hosts horticultural exhibitions and free jazz concerts in summer and has plenty to appeal to children, including an adventure park.

Nissim 0 Musée de Camondo MAP C2 • 63 Rue de Monceau, 75008 • 01 44 55 57 50 • Open 10am– 5:30pm Wed–Sun • Adm Wealthy art collector Count Moïse de Camondo had this grand mansion built to house his superb collection of 18th-century art. The rooms are full of tapestries, paintings, gilded furniture and Sèvres porcelain. As interesting as the artworks is the portrait that emerges of a well-to-do family, beset by tragedy (it is named for his son, killed in World War I) and ultimately victim to Auschwitz.

• •

Musée Nissim de Camondo

60 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Children’s Attractions Galerie 4 Grande de l’Evolution

Musée de la Magie et des Automates

The most exciting and imaginatively designed section in the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle (see p135) is the Great Gallery of Evolution. Elephants, giraffes and other stuffed animals rise out of a recreated savannah, and a huge whale skeleton hangs from the ceiling, while special displays help tell the story of the devel­ opment of life on Earth. Nature workshops are also held for children during school holidays.

de la Magie 1 Musée et des Automates

Paris 5 Disneyland The French offspring of

MAP R4 • 11 Rue St-Paul, 75004 • 01 42 72 13 26 • Open 2–7pm Wed, Sat, Sun (daily during school holidays, except Jul & Aug) • Adm • www. museedelamagie.com Kids are enchanted by this museum of magic, located in the cellars of the former home of the Marquis de Sade. Magicians conjure up shows every half hour involving optical illusions, card tricks and lots of audience par­ ticipation. Exhibits include working automata and memorabilia of magi­ cians such as Houdini (1874–1926).

Astérix 2 Parc Plailly, 60128 RER B to Roissy •

CDG1, then shuttle from A3 • Open Apr–Aug: 10am–6pm Mon–Thu (to 7pm Fri, Sat & Sun); Sep–Oct: 10am– 6pm Sat & Sun; times vary during school holidays, check website • Adm • www.parcasterix.fr There’s not just the Gaul of Asterix and Obelix to discover here, but six worlds, including ancient Greece and Rome, and all with the charm of Goscinny and Uderzo’s beloved comic books. Dozens of attractions include one of Europe’s longest roller coasters.

®

America’s favourite theme park (see p155) is a clone of its parent, and features two parks, including the Walt Disney Studios® complex. There are rides for children of all ages and most adults are equally enchanted.

de la Villette 6 Parc One of the city’s top

children’s attractions (see p156), with activities for all ages. The huge Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, a high­tech hands­on science museum, gets star billing, while the Cité des Enfants is a science and nature attraction specifically for younger children. Kids also adore the Argonaute, a real 1950s submarine that voyaged around the world 10 times, the Géode with its IMAX screen and the futuristic outdoor playground.

Tower 3 Eiffel A trip to the top is one of

the most memorable activities for children in Paris (see pp24–5).

Parc de la Villette

Children’s Attractions ❮❮ 61 d’Acclimatation 7 Jardin MAP A2 Bois de Boulogne, •

TOP 10 MERRY-GO-ROUNDS

75016 • Open 10am–8pm daily • Adm • www.jardindacclimatation.fr This amusement park at the north end of the Bois de Boulogne (see p156) has roller coasters, pony rides and puppet shows. An electric train, “le Petit Train”, runs to the park from Porte Maillot.

des Arts 8 Musée Forains Pavillons de Bercy, 53 Ave des Terroirs de France, 75012 • Metro Cour Saint-Emilion • 01 43 40 16 22 • See website for opening dates • Adm • www.arts-forains.com A private museum in a former wine warehouse in Bercy Village (see p59). It is a secret wonderland filled with vintage fairground attractions, automata, theatre props, antique merry-go-rounds and a 1920s hall of mirrors. It is open by appointment for guided tours all year round, but visitors are welcome without prior reservations for 10 days over the Christmas and New Year period to try out the traditional fairground games and ride on the carousels.

du Luxembourg 9 Jardin A green oasis in the heart

of the Left Bank, this (see p125) is one of the most popular parks in Paris. It has tennis courts, puppet shows, donkey rides and a modern playground (for a fee). But most fun of all is the traditional Parisian pastime of sailing model boats in the octagonal Grand Bassin and riding the 19th-century carousel.

des Buttes0 Parc Chaumont

The highest in Paris, this park (see p57) is great for a family picnic. For many, this panoramic hilly site is the most pleasant and unexpected park in the city. Kids enjoy exploring the rugged terrain with its lake, grassy slopes, suspended bridges and waterfalls, as well as pony rides and puppet shows. Le Pavillion du Lac and Rosa Bonheur are perfect spots for drinks.

Carousel by the Eiffel Tower 1 Eiffel Tower The Parisian icon (see pp24–5) provides a dramatic backdrop to this solarpowered merry-go-round. 2 Jardin du Luxembourg Children can play the traditional French game of rings on this historic 1879 merry-go-round. 3 Montmartre At the foot of Sacré-Coeur (see pp26–7), this grand double-decker merry-go-round has gorgeous painted horses and carriages. 4 Parc de la Villette An airplane, a hot-air balloon and a Tintin-style space rocket join the wooden horses on this two-storey merry-go-round. 5 Jardin d’Acclimatation A traditional carousel with wooden horses is just one of the collection of merry-go-rounds here. 6 Jardins du Trocadéro A wonderful hot-air balloon graces this dual-platform merry-go-round (see p142). 7 Hôtel de Ville Lucky riders jump on whenever this seasonal merry-go-round appears in the heart of the town (see p44). 8 Jardin des Plantes The curious Dodo Manège (see p138) features extinct animals including horned, giraffe-like sivatherium. 9 Parc Monceau This charming little carousel is much loved by the local children (see p157). 10 Jardin des Tuileries Set among the trees, antique wooden horses spin round this enchanting merry-go-round (see p103).

Following pages Interior of the Opéra National de Paris Garnier

64 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Entertainment Venues National 1 Opéra de Paris Garnier

Going to the opera here (see p104) is not just a night out, but a whole experience. The theatre went back to hosting opera after a spell as a dance-only venue. The building itself is an example of excessive opulence, complete with grand staircase, mirrors and marble – and even an artificial lake deep underground.

2 FoliesBergère MAP F2 • 32 Rue Richer, 75009 • 08 92 68 16 50 • www. foliesbergere.com The epitome of Parisian cabaret, the Folies were, for a time, little more than a troupe of Poster for the Folies-Bergère high-kicking, barebreasted dancers. Today, the venue hosts everything from stand-up comedy to pop and rock concerts.

Lido 3 Le MAP C2 116 bis, Ave des •

Champs-Elysées, 75008 • 01 40 76 56 10 • www.lido.fr Home to the world-famous troupe of long-legged dancers, the Bluebell Girls, the Lido wows with fabulous special effects including aerial

ballets and an on-stage skating rink. Many regard this dinner-cabaret as an essential Parisian experience.

Crazy Horse Paris 4 Le MAP C3 12 Ave •

George V, 75008 • 01 47 23 32 32 • www.lecrazyhorseparis.com More risqué than the other big-name cabaret shows, the Saloon has a reputation for putting on the most professional as well as the sexiest productions. Striptease features, along with glamorous dancing girls and other cabaret acts. The computer-controlled lighting effects are spectacular.

Cirque d’Hiver 5 Le MAP H3 110 Rue •

Amelot, 75011 • 01 47 00 28 81 • www.cirquedhiver.com Worth visiting for the façade alone, this whimsical, circular listed building, dating from 1852, plays host to the traditional Cirque Bouglione, complete with acts such as trapeze artists, clowns, jugglers and tame tigers.

Rouge 6 Moulin At the home of the Can-Can,

Toulouse-Lautrec immortalized the theatre’s dancers on canvas during the belle époque and the results are on display in the Musée d’Orsay (see p17). The show (see p148) still has all the razzamatazz that has

The neon-lit exterior of the Moulin Rouge

Entertainment Venues ❮❮ 65 been dazzling audiences since 1889. The pre-show dinner is optional.

TOP 10 JAZZ CLUBS

7 Comédie-Française MAP L1 1 Pl Colette, 75001 •

01 44 58 14 00 • www.comediefrancaise.fr Paris’s oldest theatre was founded in 1680 and is still the only one with its own repertory company, staging both classical and modern drama (in French). Commonly known as the Maison de Molière (House of Molière) – an homage to the 17th-century playwright said to be the patron of French actors – it has been based in the current building since 1799. •

8

Opéra National de Paris Bastille

MAP H5 • Pl de la Bastille, 75012 • 08 92 89 90 90 (+33 1 71 25 24 23 from abroad) • www.operadeparis.fr Opened in 1992, this large modern building was heavily criticized, not least for its acoustics and poor facilities. However, this is still the best place to see opera in Paris.

du Châtelet 9 Théâtre MAP N3 2 Rue Edouard •

Colonne, 75001 • 01 40 28 28 40 • www.chatelet.com Inaugurated in 1862 along with the Théâtre de la Ville opposite it, this was at the time the city’s largest concert hall. Many years of renovations saw it refreshed in 2019. Its outreach programme draws new audiences to its varied repertoire of music, dance, theatre and Broadway shows.

de la Ville 0 Théâtre MAP N3 2 Pl du Châtelet, •

75004 01 42 74 22 77 Closed for renovations until 2021 • www. theatredelaville-paris.com Once known as the Sarah Bernhardt Theatre, after the great Parisian actress (see p160) who performed here and managed the theatre in the 19th century, today it puts on a range of theatre, dance, and classical and world music shows. Check website for temporary venues. •

•

Performance at New Morning 1 New Morning MAP F2 7–9 Rue des Petites Ecuries An eclectic mix of music, with jam sessions and impromptu performances. •

2 Au Duc des Lombards MAP N2 42 Rue des Lombards The best overseas jazz artists come here to play with home-grown talent. •

3 Baiser Salé MAP N2 58 Rue des Lombards Jazz, blues and World Music are the mainstays at this tiny cellar club. •

4 Caveau des Oubliettes MAP F5 52 Rue Garlande Jazz in an ex-dungeon, with free jam sessions on Tuesday–Thursday & Sunday. •

5 La Bellevilloise MAP F1 19–21 Rue Boyer An alternative music venue in Belleville, which is a local favourite for live music. •

6 Jazz Club Etoile MAP A2 81 Blvd Gouvion-St-Cyr Features visiting African-American musicians. Jazzy Brunch on Sunday. •

7 Sunset-Sunside MAP N2 60 Rue des Lombards A double serving of late-night jazz: acoustic and modern at street level; electric, fusion and groove in the cellar. •

8 Jazz Café Montparnasse MAP D6 13 Rue du Commandant Mouchotte Doors close at 2am, but open again six hours later on weekdays. Great place to wine and dine with eclectic music. •

9 Le Petit Journal St-Michel MAP M5 71 Blvd St-Michel New Orleans-style swinging jazz in a lively Latin Quarter cellar. •

10 Caveau de la Huchette MAP N4 5 Rue de la Huchette Worth every penny of the entrance fee. •

66 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Fine Dining

Elegant interior of Taillevent

1 Astrance 4 Taillevent There is probably no table in Exquisite haute cuisine in a Paris that is more coveted than one in the dining room of culinary genius Pascal Barbot (see p145). His imagina­ tive tasting menus are a culinary journey; the wine cellar is superb. You’ll need to book a month ahead for lunch, two months for dinner.

Piège – 2 Jean-François Le Grand Restaurant

One the most exciting restaurants (see p107) in Paris, mostly thanks to Piège’s masterful cooking, which may include dishes such as a tower of spaghetti with belly pork and truffles, and blue lobster cooked in fig leaves. Everything is spot on here, from the meticulously pre­ pared cuisine to the striking decor.

Jules Verne 3 Le Now in the hands of Meilleur

Ouvrier de France award­winner Frédéric Anton, this restaurant (see p123) on the second floor of the Eiffel Tower has entered the 21st century. It has been revamped with a pared­ back decor and there is a suitably luxurious menu, replete with truffles in winter. Service is excellent and the panoramic views are simply breathtaking, but you will need to book in advance.

19th­century mansion, Taillevent’s (see p117) atmospheric oak­panelled dining room is frequented by a mix of businessmen and romantic couples. Dishes such as rex rabbit with Cremona mustard and black radish feature on the seasonal menu and there’s an extensive and exceptional wine list. You need to book well ahead to dine here.

5 Septime Chef Bertrand Grébaut trained with Passard before setting up this Michelin­starred bistro (see p101) serving excellent seasonal dishes. The elegant, minimalistic decor and an open kitchen complement Grébaut’s avant­garde cooking. There are set menus at both lunch and dinner.

Stylish bistro Septime

Fine Dining ❮❮ 67 Ducasse 6 Alain au Plaza Athénée

The star chef’s interpretation of modern haute cuisine – based on fish, vegetables and grains – is served in this glamorous restaurant (see p117), along with a selection of fine wines.

Toutain 7 David Having worked with some of

the best chefs in Paris, David Toutain has set the bar high, as proved by his restaurant’s (see p123) two Michelin stars. On offer are surprising tasting menus which include signature dishes such as white chocolate sal­ sifies and other original touches.

Gagnaire 8 Pierre Famous French chef Pierre

Gagnaire, an advocate of molecular gastronomy, grows his own produce and creates culinary magic at this modern French diner (see p117). Try the foie gras roasted with anchovies which is served with red tuna tartare and tamarillo.

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

de Joël 0 L’Atelier Robuchon

Take a seat at the lacquered bar of this two­Michelin­starred restaurant (see p133) to experience France’s top chef Joël Robuchon’s take on contemporary cuisine. An open kitchen surrounded by 40 seats allows diners to observe while the meticulously crafted dishes are prepared. Signature dishes are the merlan Colbert (fried whiting), and carbonara with Alsatian cream and bacon.

9 Arpege Alain Passard’s three­

Michelin­star restaurant (see p122) is highly regarded in Paris. Dishes, using produce from the biodynamic garden, might include beetroot in a hibiscus­salt crust with bitter orange. Try his superb signature apple tart. BL

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68 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Cafés and Bars de Flore 1 Café A hang-out for

de 5 Café la Paix

artists and intellectuals Café de la Paix since the 1920s, Café (see p107) can be de Flore (see p131) found along one of attracted regulars Haussmann’s grand including Salvador boulevards, and has Dalí and Albert Camus. views of the opulent During World War II Opéra Garnier. This Jean-Paul Sartre and setting makes it hard Simone de Beauvoir to contest the pricier more or less lived at coffee served inside. the Flore. Although its The café is decked prices have skyrocketed floor to ceiling with Café de Flore since then, its charming decor typical of the Art Deco decor hasn’t changed Napoleon III style, making it a historic and it’s still a perennial favourite monument. Sip drinks and discuss with French filmmakers and literati. current affairs like Maupassant or Reliable coffee, best enjoyed outside. Zola would have in the 19th century.

Progrès 2 Le Don’t be fooled by the

fairly unremarkable exterior of this Parisian bar and café (see p100). Inside, an eclectic mix of locals are always congregating to catch up with friends and people-watch, a drink in hand the meanwhile. Wood panelling and chalkboards give the café a truly authentic, old-world feel.

Marly 3 Café Overlooking the courtyard of

the Louvre, this café (see p107) is as sleek as the former palace is royal. From morning coffee to evening wine, Café Marly is the place to rest in between visits to the museum. While it is a far cry from the usual corner café, the experience is justifiably regal thanks to its plush interior and velvet armchairs.

Closerie des Lilas 6 La The main restaurant here (see

p161) is expensive, but the bar is a good spot to soak up the atmosphere of this historic site, where artists and writers such as Georges Braque and Gertrude Stein came to mingle since its founding in 1847. Look out for the famous names of visitors etched on the tables in the bar. The outdoor seating makes for a lovely, leafy setting in summer. The busy brasserie also has live piano music in the evenings and attracts a chic crowd.

Deux Magots 7 Les This café (see p131) was a

rival to the neighbouring Flore as a rendezvous for the 20th-century

4 Carette This pavement café (see p101), situated just around the corner from the Jardins du Trocadero, is the perfect setting for lunch. French staples line the menu, and they serve an excellent Sunday brunch. Find a table on the terrace for an exemplary croque monsieur or one of the picture-perfect pastries.

Pavement tables at Les Deux Magots

Cafés and Bars ❮❮ 69 intellectual élite. Hemingway, Oscar Wilde, Djuna Barnes, André Breton and Paul Verlaine were all regulars, and Picasso met his muse Dora Maar here in 1937. Like many iconic Parisian cafés, Les Deux Magots is pricey, but the outside tables facing the boulevard and square – ideally experienced with a glass of fizz – are definitely worth the cost.

de la Mairie 8 Café Looking onto the breathtaking

St-Sulpice, this classic café (see p130) has a fabulous setting reminiscent of a scene from a Parisian film. It is always thrumming with local patrons sipping coffee while they watch the world go by, particularly in summer when additional tables and chairs are set up on the street outside. It's an ideal option for a quick lunch or glass of wine between shopping and sightseeing.

Fontaine de Belleville 9 La The city’s best-known roaster (see p161) brings artisan drinks to a classic café setting, meaning coffee aficionados can finally revel in a venue with a true Parisian feel. Light breakfasts, delicious desserts and evening cocktails make this place a perfect stop at any time of the day – and lunchtime is the ideal moment for a classic croque monsieur. Just up the street from the canal, La Fontaine de Belleville offers a welcome break from the crowds bustling for a waterfront table.

Relais de la Butte 0 Le The terrace in front of this

unassuming café (see p153), located high up in Montmartre, is one of Paris’s best outdoor theatres. Locals pass the evening watching the sun set over the city as the lights begin to sparkle. The food and drink play second fiddle to the experience of sitting in this little leafy enclave, which in the summer is always busy. Montmartre is laden with watering holes of varying quality, but Le Relais de la Butte is always a sure bet, as long as the weather cooperates.

TOP 10 WINE BARS

La Belle Hortense exterior 1 La Belle Hortense MAP G4 31 Rue Vieille du Temple 01 48 04 74 60 A wine bar that doubles as a bookshop. •

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2 L’Avant Comptoir MAP M5 3 Carrefour de l’Odéon 01 44 27 07 97 Jostle around the zinc bar for delicious little bites, and glasses of natural wine. •

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3 Frenchie Bar à Vins MAP F3 6 Rue du Nil 01 40 39 96 19 A superb international wine list. •

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4 Le Barav MAP R1 6 Rue Charles-François Dupuis 01 48 04 57 59 Well-priced wines in the upper Marais. •

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5 Le Garde Robe MAP M2 41 Rue de l’Arbre Sec 01 49 26 90 60 Cheeses, oysters and charcuterie round out the menu of natural wines here. •

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6 Septime La Cave 3 Rue Basfroi 01 43 67 14 87 Quaint wine store of Septime (see p66). •

7 Verjus Bar à Vins MAP E3 47 Rue Montpensier 01 42 97 54 40 This cosy wine bar specializes in independent French winemakers. •

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8 Déviant MAP F2 39 Rue des Petites Ecuries 01 48 24 66 79 Natural wines pair with small plates here. •

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9 Le Baron Rouge An unpretentious, long-time favourite (see p101) near the Aligre market that serves fresh oysters when in season. 10 Quedubon MAP H2 22 Rue du Plateau 01 42 38 18 65 A list of over 200 natural wines. •

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70 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Shops and Markets 3 Printemps MAP E2 64 Blvd Haussmann, •

75009 One of Paris’s top department stores, the iconic Printemps opened in 1864. Its goods range from designer clothing and accessories to mid-range labels and funky fashions, home decor and furniture. The sixth-floor brasserie is crowned with a lovely Art Nouveau stainedglass cupola.

Market 4 Bastille MAP H5 Blvd Richard-Lenoir, •

75011 Every Thursday and Sunday morning, this market stretches along the treelined boulevard that separates the Marais from the Bastille. Sunday is the best day, when locals come to socialize as well as shop for fish, meat, bread and cheese. Some stalls sell North African and other international food.

Galeries Lafayette

Lafayette 1 Galeries MAP E2 40 Blvd Haussmann, •

75009 This expansive store opened in 1894 as a monument to Parisian style, topped by a glorious steel-and-glass dome. Along with designer clothes, there’s a fabulous food hall. The seventh floor has great views.

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MAP P4 • Pl Louis-Lépine, 75004 Dating from 1808, the colourful Marché aux Fleurs – Reine Elisabeth II (flower market) on the Ile de la Cité is the oldest and one of the largest flower markets in Paris. Its blooms brighten up the area between the stark walls of the Conciergerie and Hôtel Dieu from Monday to Saturday – everything from orchids to orange trees. On Sundays it is joined by the Marché aux Oiseaux (bird market).

(see p104). Some of the most delectable speciality food shops in Paris are dotted around the edges of this square, including the famous

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Shops and Markets ❮❮ 71 Fauchon food hall. There’s Maille for mustard, Kaspia for caviar, Marquise de Sévigné for chocolates and La Maison de la Truffe (see p106) for truffles. Several elegant salons de thé offer a spot to sit and sip too.

its own line of menswear as well as the enormous La Grande Epicerie food hall.

6 Merci Featuring homeware,

clothing, furniture and a range of curated design products, Merci (see p98) is a playful alternative to traditional department stores. After a spot of shopping, visit the canteen on the kitchen level or grab a coffee at the charming ground-floor café. It’s the place to shop and be seen just north of the Marais.

Stall at Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen

Mouffetard 7 Rue One of the oldest market

aux Puces 9 Marché de St-Ouen

Bon Marché 8 Le MAP D5 22 Rue de Sèvres,

d’Aligre 0 Marché MAP H5 Pl d’Aligre, 75012

streets (see p136) in Paris winds downhill through the Latin Quarter every morning Tuesday to Sunday. Although this formerly cheap and bohemian market has been discovered as a tourist spot, it retains its charm, the narrow streets lined with speciality shops. There are also some good restaurants in the quieter side streets.

•

75007 Paris’s first department store was founded on the Left Bank in 1852, its structure partially designed by Gustave Eiffel (see p25). Today it’s even more hip than its competitors, with an in-store boutique featuring avantgarde fashions. It also has designer clothes, Le Bon Marché

Porte de Clignancourt, 75018 • Metro Porte de Clignancourt Every Saturday to Monday the largest antiques market in the world is held here. There are actually several markets here: the oldest, Marché Vernaison, is the most charming. Marché Biron offers a wide range of art, fine furniture, interesting jewellery and paintings.

•

Away from the tourist bustle, this market retains its authentic Parisian atmosphere. An indoor hall houses vendors selling cheese, artisan beer, olive oil and charcuterie among other high-quality goods. Outside, inexpensive fruit, vegetables and flowers fill the street-side stands each morning from Tuesday to Sunday.

72 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Paris for Free fine Art Nouveau pieces. There’s a charming inner garden with a café too. Check the website for details about occasional free lunchtime concerts held in the auditorium.

Visits to Museums 4 Free On the first Sunday of every

month, admission to the permanent collections of most Paris museums, including the Louvre (Oct–Mar), Pompidou Centre, Musée Rodin and Musée d’Orsay, is free to everyone.

de Ville 5 Hôtel Paris’s grand city hall (see Picturesque Place des Vosges

des Vosges 1 Place Originally named Place Royale, this exceptionally beautiful arcaded square (see p93) dating to 1605 is a peaceful area to stroll and sit. The Classical arcades contain many art galleries. At No. 6, the Maison de Victor Hugo is the former dwelling of the famous writer and contains a museum dedicated to his life. The permanent collections are free.

de Cinéma 2 Festival en Plein Air 229 Ave Jean Jaurès, 75019 • Metro Porte de Pantin • www.lavillette.com Each summer a giant screen is placed in Parc de la Villette (see p156), showing movies (in the original language, with French subtitles) in the open air every evening for a month. The films, which range from classics to the less well-known, are all free. Deckchairs and blankets are available for hire, and many people bring their own picnic to make an evening of it.

p44) hosts regular excellent, free exhibitions, usually on a Parisian theme; a recent show focused on the Liberation of Paris. Free events often take place on the forecourt, but the wide square is just as fine a place to people-watch on any regular day.

de Seine 6 Berges MAP B4–E4 www.lesberges. •

paris.fr The Berges de Seine, the stretch of river between the Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac and Musée d’Orsay, is an attractive, lively promenade with loads of free activities, such as concerts and workshops, board games, a climbing wall and play spaces for children. There’s a riverfront walkway on the Right Bank too.

des Beaux Arts 3 Musée de la Ville de Paris

The grand Neo-Classical Petit Palais (see p112) is anything but “little”, and is home to this fascinating collection of art and artifacts, including some

Berges de Seine

Paris for Free ❮❮ 73 Journées 7 Les du Patrimoine

TOP 10 BUDGET TIPS

www.journeesdupatrimoine. culture.fr On the third weekend of September, many buildings that are normally offlimits, such as the Elysée Palace, are opened up to the public for free.

d’Art Moderne 8 Musée de la Ville de Paris

This museum of modern art (see p142), with a forecourt giving onto the Seine, may not rival the Pompidou’s collection, but it’s free and often offers a calmer atmosphere. Almost all of the major 20th-century artists who worked in France are represented, including Picasso, Braque, Chagall and Modigliani, along with some new modern artists.

du 9 Cimetière Père Lachaise

It is easy to while away an entire afternoon at Père Lachaise cemetery (see p156), tracking down celebrity graves including those of Oscar Wilde, Colette, Balzac, Edith Piaf, Chopin and Jim Morrison. With its mossgrown tombs and ancient trees, it’s also an atmospheric and romantic place for a long stroll. Grave of Frédéric Chopin, Père Lachaise

and Choir Recitals 0 Organ Free organ recitals are given at 5pm on Sundays in the beautiful church of St-Eustache (see p85), which has one of the finest organs in France. La Madeleine (see p46) and Saint-Roch also host free classical music concerts.

A classic French breakfast 1 Out for breakfast Having breakfast at a café will cost considerably less than at a hotel. 2 Youth savings State-run museums, including the Louvre, are free for anyone under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 3 Set-price lunch Fixed price (prix fixe) lunches are usually good value and almost always cost less than evening meals. They can be a great way of dining at a top restaurant without breaking the bank. 4 Cutting transport costs Buying a carnet of tickets, a Mobilis or Paris Visite card will save on transport costs (see p165). 5 Lodgings for less It’s almost always cheaper to stay in an apartment, B&B or hostel than at a hotel (see p171). 6 Cut-price entertainment Half-price same-day theatre and concert tickets are sold at kiosks on Place de la Madeleine. 7 Order a carafe A carafe of wine is better value than a bottle, and the house wine is generally very good.

8 Museum pass With so many museums to visit, the Paris Museum Pass offers savings (www.parismuseumpass.com). 9 Sightseeing by bus The bus is a great way of sightseeing cheaply – for example, number 24 takes a scenic route along the Seine. 10 Cheaper movies Cinemas in the 5th arrondissement (around the Panthéon) are cheaper than those elsewhere.

74 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Festivals and Events

Fête de la Musique street performers

Music Film Screenings 1 Street www.fetedelamusique.culture. 4 www.feteducinema.com gouv.fr Parisians love to celebrate music. The Fête de la Musique, held on the summer equinox, is Paris’s largest music festival, when amateur and professional musicians take to the streets. There are performances in Place de la République and concert venues, but the most fun is to be had wandering through neighbourhoods.

Magic 2 Garden www.chateauversaillesspectacles.fr During summer weekend evenings the gardens of Versailles are home to the Grandes Eaux Nocturnes. Superb illuminations and install­ ations, plus a dazzling firework display over the Grand Canal, make this a midsummer night’s dream.

Cinema is embedded in Paris’s culture. The four­day Fête du Cinema, held in early summer, allows film buffs to watch films at cinemas across Paris for just €4. The focus is on niche, independent movies.

Mania 5 Cycling www.letour.fr

Don’t miss the Tour de France if you want to understand the French passion for cycling. Held annually since 1903, the world’s greatest and most gruelling cycle race approaches Paris after 23 days. On the final laps the riders pass the Louvre, race along the banks of the Seine, hurtle down the Rue de Rivoli and cross the finish line on the Champs­Elysées.

That Jazz 3 All www.parisjazzfestival.fr www.jazzalavillette.com Paris has a long tradition of jazz, which was introduced to the city in World War I. A summer highlight is the Paris Jazz Festival. The Parc Floral in the Bois de Vincennes (see p156) is the main setting, blending a verdant backdrop with jazz melodies. Jazz à la Villette in September takes place in the Cité de la Musique. •

The Tour de France event in Paris

Festivals and Events ❮❮ 75 Beach 6 City www.paris.fr

TOP 10 SPORTS EVENTS

This popular summer event trans­ forms a stretch of the Seine quais and the Canal du l’Ourcq into a mini Cannes, with tons of soft sand, deck chairs, parasols and palm trees.

Arts 7 Performing www.festival-automne.com

From plays and cabarets to music and dance, Paris stages a huge range of shows. For contemporary performing arts, head to the Festival d’Automne à Paris. Founded in 1972, this festival encourages people from all walks of life to performances of dance, music, film and drama.

Avant-Garde Art

8 www.parisinfo.com

A leader in avant­garde art in the early 20th century, Paris continues its cutting­edge artistic legacy with the Nuit Blanche, first held here in 2002. This free all­night contemp­ orary art event in early October gives a fresh perspective on the city, with installations and illuminations of famous landmarks.

Harvest 9 Grape Celebrations

Paris Marathon runners 1 Six Nations Rugby www.stadefrance.com The French team plays England, Scotland, Ireland, Wales and Italy. 2 La Verticale de la Tour Eiffel www.verticaletoureiffel.fr Race to the top of this iconic monument. 3 Paris Marathon www.schneiderelectricparis marathon.com Runners start at the Champs-Elysées and end at Avenue Foch. 4 Football Cup Final www.stadefrance.com The biggest event in French football. 5 French Tennis Open www.rolandgarros.com This legendary clay-court tournament is part of the prestigious Grand Slam.

www.fetesdesvendangesde montmartre.com Paris was once a major wine producer but these days only the vineyards at Montmartre produce wine (see p149), yielding just under a thousand bottles of Clos de Montmartre every year. To celebrate the grape harvest in early October, the Fêtes des Vendanges is held over five days on the Butte Montmartre and neighbouring districts with wine, food stalls, music and street theatre.

6 Top 14 Rugby Final www.stadefrance.com Some of the world’s finest rugby players take part in the final of the French Rugby league.

Festivals 0 Foodie www.omnivore.com

9 Qatar Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe www.parislongchamp.com This world-renowned horse race was first held in 1920

www.paristastefestivals.com Legendary for its cuisine, Paris is a foodie heaven. Try modern cuisine at Omnivore, a festival in March dedicated to culinary innovation, or savour dishes from leading chefs at Taste of Paris in May. •

7 Prix de Diane Longines www.evenements.france-galop.com This upmarket horse race in Chantilly, north of Paris, is named after the mythological goddess Diana. 8 La Parisienne www.la-parisienne.net Europe’s largest women-only race in aid of breast cancer research.

10 Rolex Paris Masters www.rolexparismasters.com After the French Open, this is regarded as the country’s next major tennis championship.

Paris Area by Area

A Gothic gargoyle stares out over Paris from Notre-Dame’s western façade

Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis

78

Beaubourg and Les Halles

84

Marais and the Bastille

92

Tuileries and Opéra Quarters

102

Champs-Elysées Quarter

110

Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters

118

St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters

124

Jardin des Plantes Quarter

134

Chaillot Quarter

140

Montmartre and Pigalle

146

Greater Paris

154

78 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis Paris was born on the Ile de la Cité. The first settlers came to this island on the Seine in 300 BC and it has been a focus of church and state power over many centuries, home to the great cathedral of Notre-Dame and the Palais de Justice. This tiny land mass is also the geographical heart of the city – all distances from Paris are measured from Point Zéro, just outside Notre-Dame. While the Ile de la Cité bustles with tourists, the smaller Ile St-Louis, linked to its neighbour by a footbridge, has been an exclusive residential enclave since the 17th century. Notre-Dame Its main street is lined with shops, galleries chimera and restaurants and is a lovely place for a stroll. ILE DE LA CITÉ AND ILE ST-LOUIS Châtelet Châtelet

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1 Notre-Dame See pp20–23. 2 Sainte-Chapelle See pp36–7. Archéologique 3 Crypte MAP P4 7 Parvis Notre•

Dame – Pl Jean-Paul II, 75004 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Adm Fascinating remnants of early Paris dating back to Gallo-Roman times were discovered in 1965, during an excavation of the square in front of Notre-Dame in order to build an underground car park. The archaeological crypt displays parts of 3rd-century Roman walls, rooms heated by hypocaust, as well as remains of medieval streets and foundations. The scale models showing the evolution of the city from its origins as a Celtic settlement are interesting.

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Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis ❮❮ 79

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Marché aux Fleurs, Ile de la Cité

aux Fleurs – 4 Marché Reine Elizabeth II MAP N3 One of the last remaining flower markets in the city centre, the beautiful Marché aux Fleurs (see p70) is also the oldest, dating from the early 19th century. It is held yearround, Monday to Saturday, in place Louis-Lépine, filling the north side of the Ile de la Cité with dazzling blooms from 8am to 7:30pm. There is also a bird market here on Sundays, which sells some rare species.

5 Conciergerie MAP N3 2 Blvd du Palais, •

75001 • Open 9:30am–6pm daily • Adm This imposing Gothic palace, built by Philippe le Bel (the Fair) in 1301–15, has a rich history. Parts of it were turned into a prison, controlled by the concierge, or keeper of the king’s mansion, hence the name. Ravaillac, assassin of Henri IV, was tortured here, but it was during the Revolution that the prison became a place of terror, when thousands were held here awaiting execution by guillotine. Today you can see the Salle des Gardes and the magnificent vaulted Salle des Gens d’Armes (Hall of the Men-at-Arms), a torture chamber, the Bonbec tower and the prison. The cell where Marie-Antoinette was held, and the history of other famous Revolution prisoners, is on display. Outside, look for the square Tour de l’Horloge, erected in 1370, which houses the city’s first public clock, still ticking.

80 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Pont Neuf, Paris’s oldest bridge, spanning the Seine

Neuf 6 Pont MAP M3

The name – New Bridge – is somewhat incongruous for the oldest surviving bridge in Paris. Following its completion in 1607, Henri IV christened it by charging across on his steed; the bronze equestrian statue of the king was melted down during the Revolution but replaced in 1818. Decorated with striking carved heads, the bridge was unique for its time in that it had no houses built upon it. It has 12 arches and a span of 275 m (912 ft) extending to both sides of the island.

de Justice 7 Palais MAP M3 10 Blvd du Palais, •

75001 • Open 9am–6pm Mon–Fri (ID required) Stretching across the west end of the Ile de la Cité from north to south, the Palais de Justice, along with the

Conciergerie, was once part of the Palais de la Cité, seat of Roman rule and the home of the French kings until 1358. It took its present name during the Revolution – prisoners passed through the Cour du Mai (May Courtyard) on their way to execution during this time – though the Revolutionary Tribunal eventually degenerated during Robespierre’s Reign of Terror. In 2018, most of the central law courts that had been housed here moved into new premises in the 17th arrondissement.

Dauphine 8 Place MAP M3

In 1607, Henri IV transformed this former royal garden into a triangular square and named it after his son, the Dauphin and future King Louis XIII. Surrounding the square were uniformly built houses of brick and white stone; No. 14 is one of the few THE GUILLOTINE

Palais de Justice

Dr Joseph Guillotine invented his “humane” beheading machine at his home near the Odéon and it was first used in April 1792. During the Revolution some 2,600 prisoners were executed on the places du Carrousel, de la Concorde, de la Bastille and de la Nation, after awaiting their fate in the Conciergerie prison.

Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis ❮❮ 81 that retains its original features. One side was destroyed to make way for the expansion of the Palais de Justice. Today this quiet spot is a good place to relax over a drink or meal (see p83).

St-Louis-en-l’Ile

9 MAP Q5

19 Rue St-Louisen-l’Ile, 75004 • Open 10am–1pm & 2–7:30pm Tue–Fri, 9:30am–1pm & 2–7:30pm Sat, 9am–1pm & 2–7pm Sun This Baroque church was designed between 1664 and 1726 by the royal architect Louis Le Vau. The exterior features an iron clock (1741) at the entrance and an iron spire, while the interior, richly decorated with gilding and marble, has a statue of St Louis holding his Crusader’s sword. •

A DAY ON THE ISLANDS Pont La Rose Neuf de France Conciergerie Marché aux Fleurs

Place Dauphine

Ile St-Louis

SainteChapelle Crypte Archéologique

NotreDame

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MORNING

View the exterior of the famous Notre-Dame (see pp20–23). This 850-year old cathedral suffered extensive damage in a major fire in 2019. It is now closed for renovations. From here head for the fragrant Marché aux Fleurs (see p79). You can buy all kinds of garden accessories, flowers and seeds. Take a coffee break at Le Flore en l’Ile (see p83), with its views of the cathedral and the Seine. The Crypte Archéologique (see p79) is worth a half-hour visit, before strolling towards Place Dauphine. This historic square is the perfect place to relax. There are plenty of places for lunch, but on a sunny day try La Rose de France (see p83), which has terrace seating. AFTERNOON

Square du Vert-Galant

du Vert-Galant 0 Square MAP M3

The tranquil western tip of the Ile de la Cité, with its verdant chestnut trees, lies beneath the Pont Neuf – take the steps behind Henri IV’s statue. The king had a notoriously amorous nature and the name of this peaceful square recalls his nickname, meaning “old flirt”. From here there is a wonderful view of the Louvre (see pp12–15) and the Right Bank. It is also the departure point for cruises on the Seine on Les Vedettes du Pont Neuf (see p171).

Soak up the views of the city from Pont Neuf before heading towards the Conciergerie (see p79). See Marie-Antoinette’s prison cell in this Gothic palaceturned-prison. Next, spend the rest of the afternoon at the ethereal Sainte-Chapelle (see pp36–7) when the sun beams through the lovely stained-glass windows. From here, start strolling the narrow streets of the beautiful Ile St-Louis, which are filled with shops and galleries (see p82) selling a wide range of Parisian products. Wind up with an afternoon treat by visiting Berthillon (see p83), considered the best ice-cream purveyor in all of France. See map on pp78–9

82 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Shopping 1 Lafitte MAP P4 8 Rue Jean du •

Bellay, 75004 • Closed Sun, Mon Foie gras and other regional products from the southwest await those look­ ing to indulge in French gastronomy.

& Co 2 Oliviers MAP Q5 81 Rue St-Louis-en•

I’lle, 75004 • Closed Sun This speciality food shop stocks high­quality olive oils from Provence and the Mediterranean basin. Check out the flavoured vinegars and truffled condiments too.

5 Laguiole MAP Q4 35 Rue des Deux •

Ponts, 75004 • Closed Sun (am) Browse an array of knives and cutlery sets from this iconic cutlery brand, which hails from the Aveyron region of southern France. Look for the famous bee motif on the handles.

6 Pylones MAP Q5 57 Rue St-Louis-en•

l’Ile, 75004 • Closed Mon Rubber and painted metal are used to create the whimsical jewellery and accessories sold here, along with a selection of novelty gifts.

Ulysse 3 Librairie Saint Louis MAP Q5 26 Rue St-Louis-en7 Boulangerie l’Ile, 75004 Closed am & Sun–Mon MAP Q5 80 Rue St-Louis -en•

•

•

Today Paris, tomorrow the world. This eccentric travel bookshop will take you anywhere you want with thousands of titles, antiquarian and new, in French and English – including many on Paris itself.

l’Ile, 75004 One of the few bakeries on the island, this tiny boulangerie has everything classic, ranging from hearty baguette sandwiches to buttery croissants.

de Rêve Moinet 4 Clair 8 Maison MAP Q5 35 Rue St-Louis-enMAP Q5 45 Rue St-Louis•

l’Ile, 75004 • Closed Sun This boutique sells original puppets, robots and miniature theatres, making it an ideal shop if you’re looking for a present with a difference.

•

en-l’Ile, 75004 • Closed Mon A family­run confectioner from Vichy, this cute shop sells traditional French sweets and chocolates. It is an enticing treat for all ages.

Ferme 9 La Saint-Aubin MAP Q5 • 76 Rue StLouis-en-l’Ile, 75004 • Closed Mon (am) Cheese in all shapes and sizes from across France are sold at this fromagerie. An aromatic delight.

0 Carion Minéraux

Clair de Rêve boutique

MAP Q5 • 92 Rue StLouis-en-l’Ile, 75004 • Closed Sun, Mon A wealth of meteorites, fossils and minerals. Some are made into imaginative jewellery.

Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis ❮❮ 83

Places to Eat Henri IV 1 Taverne MAP M3 13 Pl du Pont-Neuf, •

75001 01 43 54 27 90 Closed Sun, Aug • € A cosy wine bar with an extensive wine list and simple plates of charcuterie, cheese and snails. •

•

Le Sergent Recruteur

2 MAP Q4

41 Rue St-Louisen-l’Ile, 75004 • 01 85 15 26 80 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€€ Served in a stylishly refurbished space, the Michelin-starred tasting menus include imaginative modern interpretations of traditional dishes. •

PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50

Rose de France 7 La MAP M3 24 Pl Dauphine, •

75001 • 01 43 54 10 12 • €€ Dine on French classics on the lovely terrace or in the cosy dining room.

Fous de L’Ile 3 Les MAP Q4 33 Rue des •

Deux Ponts, 75004 • 01 43 25 76 67 • €€ This modern Parisian bistro serves typical dishes such as entrecôte or steak tartare. It also hosts exhibitions and live music.

Petit Plateau 4 Le MAP G5 1 Quai aux Fleurs, •

75004 • 01 44 07 61 86 • € This tearoom is a great lunch spot, serving delicious homemade salads, quiches and cakes.

de 5 Brasserie l’Isle St-Louis MAP P4 • 55 Quai de Bourbon, 75004 • 01 43 54 02 59 • Closed Wed, Aug • €€ Wooden tables and a rustic look complement hearty Alsace fare, such as tripe in Riesling wine. The terrace welcomes alfresco diners in summer.

6 Isami MAP P5

La Rose de France

Vache 8 L’Ilot MAP Q5 35 Rue St Louis •

en l’Ile, 75004 • 01 46 33 55 16 • €€ French classics still have some surprises – duck confit with raspberries, for example – at this tiny, unpretentious eatery. The table displays of flowers are spectacular.

Flore en l’Ile 9 Le MAP P5 42 Quai d’Orléans, •

75004 • 01 43 29 88 27 • €€ Go for the views as well as the food at this bistro-cum-tearoom, open from breakfast until 2am.

0 Berthillon MAP G5 31 Rue St-Louis•

4 Quai d’Orléans, 75004 • 01 40 46 06 97 • Closed Sun, Mon, Aug • €€€ This is consistently voted one of the best Japanese restaurants in the city. The sushi and sashimi platters are a work of art but space is limited so be sure to book ahead. •

en-l’Ile, 75004 • 01 43 54 31 61 • Closed Mon, Tue, 1 week Feb, 1 week Easter, Aug, late Oct • No credit cards • € There is always a queue outside this legendary ice cream and sorbet shop and tearoom but it is worth the wait. See map on pp78–9

84 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Beaubourg and Les Halles The small but lively Beaubourg Quarter, brimming with art galleries and cafés, Fontaine des Innocents has become a major tourist attraction since the Centre Georges Pompidou opened in 1977. Les Halles was the city’s marketplace for 800 years – novelist Emile Zola called it “the belly of Paris”. Its glass-roofed pavilions were demolished in 1969 but many of the surrounding bistros and speciality shops are still here. BEAUBOURG AND LES HALLES

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des Halles 2 Forum MAP N2

Ten years after the original market was demolished, the so-called “largest urban hole in Europe” was filled with this controversial shopping complex. This largely underground maze caters mainly to the young with designer-name boutiques. Outside, buskers, young people and tourists throng the steps and gardens. Part of a continuing project to revitalize the neighbourhood under the leadership of French architect David Mangin, the revamped shopping centre now has a huge undulating glass-and-steel roof, known as "the Canopy".

Jean Sans Peur 3 Tour MAP N1 20 Rue Etienne •

Marcel, 75002 • 01 40 26 20 28 • Open 1:30–6pm Wed–Sun • Adm After the Duke of Orléans was assassinated on his orders in 1407, the Duke of Burgundy feared reprisals. To protect himself, he built this 27-m- (88-ft-) tall tower onto his home, the Hôtel de Bourgogne, and moved his bedroom up to the fourth floor (reached by a flight of 140 steps). A remnant of the 15thcentury residence, the tower later became a theatre in the 17th to 18th centuries. Today it hosts exhibitions on life in the Middle Ages.

Chapelle de la Vierge, St-Eustache

Philippe de Champaigne (1631) and the tomb of politician Jean-Baptiste Colbert (1619–83) are the highlights. Don’t miss the naïve sculpture in the Chapelle des Pélerins d’Emmaüs, which recalls Les Halles’ market days, or the Keith Haring triptych in the Chapelle St-Vincent-de-Paul.

de Commerce – 5 Bourse Collection Pinault MAP M1 • 2 Rue de Viarmes, 75001 • www.boursedecommerce.fr The circular building that houses the Commodities Exchange was erected as a grain market in 1767 and remodelled in the 19th century. The building is undergoing extensive renovations to transform it into Paris’s newest contemporary cultural centre and is scheduled to reopen in spring 2021. The centre will feature billionaire businessman François Pinault’s art collection as well as host concerts, screenings and conferences.

4 St-Eustache MAP M1 2 Impasse St•

Eustache, 75001 • Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat & Sun With its majestic arches and pillars, St-Eustache is one of the most beautiful churches in Paris. Although Gothic in design, it took 105 years to build (1532–1637) and its interior decoration reflects the Renaissance style of this time. The church was modelled on Notre-Dame (see pp20– 23), with double side aisles and a ring of side chapels. The stained-glass windows made from sketches by

Façade of the Bourse de Commerce

86 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area des Innocents 6 Fontaine MAP N2 Rue St-Denis & •

Rue Berger, 75001 The Square des Innocents is a Les Halles crossroads and a hang-out for street performers and young people. It was built atop a cemetery in the 18th century, from which two million human remains were transferred to the Catacombs (see p58) at Denfert-Rochereau. The Renaissance fountain, the last of its era built in the city, was designed by Pierre Lescot and carved by sculptor Jean Goujon in 1547. It originally stood against a wall on rue St-Denis, and was moved to the new square, when the fourth side was added.

GEORGES POMPIDOU Georges Pompidou (1911–74) had the unenviable task of following Général de Gaulle as President of France, from 1969 until his death. During his tenure he initiated many architectural developments in Paris, including the controversial but ultimately successful Pompidou Centre, and the less popular scheme to demolish the Les Halles market.

St-Merry 7 Eglise MAP P2 76 Rue de la Verrerie, •

75004 • Open 3–7pm Mon–Sat (Nov– Mar: 2–6pm) Formerly the parish church of the Lombard moneylenders, St-Merry was built between 1520 and 1612, and reflects the Flamboyant Gothic style. Its name is a corruption of St-Médéric, who was buried on this site in the early 8th century. The bell in the church’s northwest turret, thought to be the oldest in Paris, dates from 1331. Other highlights include the decorative west front, the 17th-century organ loft, beautiful stained glass and carved wood panelling. There are free concerts at the weekends. Check www.accueilmusical.fr for timings.

l’Auxerrois 8 St-Germain MAP M2 2 Pl du Louvre, •

75001 • Open 9am–7pm daily • www.saintgermainauxerrois.fr When the Valois kings moved to the Louvre (see p12) palace in the 14th century, this became the church of the royal family. On 24 August 1572, the tolling of its bell was used as the signal for the St Bartholomew’s Day Massacre, when thousands of Huguenots who had come to Paris for the wedding of Henri of Navarre to Marguerite of Valois (see p22) were murdered. The church features a range of architectural styles, from its Flamboyant Gothic façade to its Renaissance choir. Check the website for details about the monthly guided tours.

Montorgueil 9 Rue MAP N1

Stained glass in Eglise St-Merry

This bustling market street was once part of the oldest marketplace of Paris, the historic Les Halles. Today, the centrally located and picturesque street has countless wine shops, bistros, boutiques, restaurants and gourmet cheese and pastry shops, all of which are a visitor's delight. Many Parisian chefs frequent the shops along Rue Montorgueil along with

Beaubourg and Les Halles ❮❮ 87 locals and tourists alike. Its charming and lively cafés are perfect for people-watching after indulging in delicious goods from any of its excellent bakeries.

St-Jacques 0 Tour MAP N3 Sq de la Tour

A DAY IN LES HALLES Rue Montorgueil Au Pied de Cochon St-Eustache

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St-Jacques, 75004 The late Gothic tower, dating from 1523, is all that remains of the church of St-Jacques-la-Boucherie, once the largest medieval church in Paris and a starting point for pilgrims on their journey to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. In the 17th century the mathematician and physicist Blaise Pascal used the tower for barometrical experiments. The church was pulled down after the Revolution. Visitors can take a tour to the top of the tower and visit the gardens (book online at www. desmotsetdesarts.com).

Fontaine des Innocents Le Zimmer Café

Forum des Halles Le Georges Centre Georges Pompidou Stravinsky Fountain Benoit

MORNING

Start your day with breakfast at Le Zimmer Café (1 Pl du Châtelet; 01 42 36 74 03; open 7:30am–1am daily) before exploring the permanent collection of the Musée National d’Art Moderne at the Centre Georges Pompidou (see pp32–3). Stop for refreshments at Le Georges (see p91), a chic brasserie at the top of the Centre Pompidou, which offers great views along with drinks, snacks or main meals. On leaving the Centre, turn left into Place Igor Stravinsky to admire the colourful Stravinsky Fountain (see p32). If you have booked ahead, take your seat at Michelin-starred bistro Benoit (see p91), whose lunchtime menu is far cheaper than in the evening. AFTERNOON

Pass the Fontaine des Innocents as you head for Les Halles, but first pay a visit to the church of St-Eustache (see p85), where the workers of the old Les Halles market worshipped. Walk under the green canopy over the Forum des Halles (see p85) and head for charming Rue Montorgueil and the little streets surrounding it – there are plenty of food shops and cafés to explore. Finish the day at the classic brasserie Au Pied de Cochon (see p91), which has a smart burgundy-and-cream terrace. It is a great spot for comfort foods such as pork terrine and onion soup au gratin.

Tour St-Jacques See map on p84

88 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Memories of Les Halles

Sumptuous interior of Au Pied de Cochon

Pied de Cochon 1 Au This 24-hour brasserie (see

p91) still serves dishes that used to appeal to the earthy tastes of market workers, including the eponymous pigs’ trotters.

Rocher de Cancale 6 Au MAP N1 78 Rue Montorgueil, •

75002 Once a gathering space for artists and writers during the early 19th century, this place is known for its oysters.

Cochon à l’Oreille Fresque 2 Le 7 La MAP F3 15 Rue Montmartre, MAP N1 100 Rue Rambuteau, •

75001 Dating back to the early 20th century, this ornate former working men’s café/bar, decorated with historic tiles and murals, has only a small dining room, so book in advance.

•

75001 This wonderful restaurant used to be a fishmonger. Original tiles and a fresco of a fishing scene still decorate the back room.

8 Dehillerin Sculpture MAP M1 18 Rue Coquillière, 3 St-Eustache 75001 The lively naïve sculpture by •

Raymond Mason in the church’s Chapelle des Pélerins d’Emmaüs is a tribute to the beloved market. Its colourful figures depict The Departure of Fruit and Vegetables from the Heart of Paris, 28 February 1969.

Aurouze

4 MAP F4

8 Rue des Halles, 75001 This shop is credited with getting rid of Les Halles’ most unwelcome inhabitants – rats. The window display is a taxidermy tribute to the once-common vermin. •

Stöhrer

5 MAP N1

• 51 Rue Montorgueil, 75002 One of Paris’s loveliest, old-fashioned patisseries, founded in 1730 by a chef who had worked for Louis XV.

Since 1820, everyone from army cooks to gourmet chefs has come here for copper pots, cast-iron pans and cooking utensils.

et Minart 9 Duthilleul MAP P1 14 Rue de Turbigo, •

75001 For more than 100 years this shop has sold French work clothes and uniforms, such as chef’s hats and watchmaker’s smocks.

Cloche des Halles 0 AMAPla M1 28 Rue Coquillière, •

75001 This wine bar and restaurant practically chimes with history. The “cloche” is the bronze bell whose peal once signalled the start and end of the market day.

Beaubourg and Les Halles ❮❮ 89

Food Shops 1 G.MAPDetou 7 Delitaly N1 58 Rue Tiquetonne, MAP F3 5 Rue des Petits •

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75002 The shelves at this chef’s paradise are laden with chocolates, teas, artisanal mustards and more.

Frères 2 Mariage MAP N1 190 Rue •

Montorgueil, 75002 This elegant and fragrant tea boutique has a dizzying array of teas and teapots.

Chocolatier 3 Charles MAP N1 15 Rue Montorgueil, •

75002 On a cold day, stop in at this familyrun chocolate shop for a take-out cup of their luscious hot chocolate; the ice creams in summer are delectable, too.

la Mère de 4 AFamille MAP N1 • 82 Rue Montorgueil, 75002 This branch of the oldest confectionary shop in Paris stocks regional French sweets, all in the brand’s vintage-inspired packaging.

Carreaux, 75002 You’ll find fresh and dried pastas, gourmet olive oils, tubs of antipasti and a mouthwatering selection of salami and other cured meats at this Italian deli.

Kayser 8 Eric MAP F3 16 Rue des Petits •

Carreaux, 75002 Beyond excellent baguettes, choose from all manner of delicious pastries and other baked goods to stock up on for tea.

Gourmande 9 Librairie MAP F3 92–96 Rue •

Montmartre, 75002 This fabulous bookshop has an extensive collection of books on wine and cooking, some in English.

Roger 0 Boucherie MAP N1 62 Rue Montorgueil, •

75002 From roasted chicken to meat pâté, this place has it all for you. They even prepare their own cuts in-house.

Fermette 5 La MAP N1 86 Rue •

Montorgueil, 75002 The enthusiastic cheesemongers here are ready with tips and tastings to help visitors make the perfect choice from the piles of cheese on display.

6 Boulangerie Collet MAP N1 • 100 Rue Montorgueil, 75002 Run by the same family for two generations, this traditional boulangerie is particularly known for its viennoiseries and light-as-air meringues.

Visitors at Boucherie Roger See map on p84

90 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Creative Dining in Les Halles Donuts 5 Boneshaker MAP F3 77 Rue d’Aboukir, •

75002 Away from the traditional pastry shops of Les Halles, Boneshaker produces delicious gourmet, small batch doughnuts.

Cevicheria 6 La MAP F3 14 Rue Bachaumont, •

Cosy interior of Lockwood

1 Lockwood MAP F3 73 Rue d’Aboukir, •

75002 Enjoy artisan coffee and brunch at the weekend, or spend an evening in Lockwood’s underground bar with light bites and great cocktails.

2 OMAPChâteau M1 68 Rue J J Rousseau, •

75001 Get tips for buying wine at O Château. This wine bar runs very popular sessions with English-speaking sommeliers. Consider a tasting dinner in one of their vaulted cellars.

de Patisserie 3 Fou MAP N1 45 Rue Montorgueil, •

75002 This retailer excels in bringing the best pastries from around the city to Les Halles. Sample pastries from some of the most popular chefs such as Pierre Hermé and Cyril Lignac. Here, shoppers can find cakes and other creative products by Paris’s biggest names.

75002 Try some fresh ceviche – a speciality of raw fish from various Latin American countries. At La Cevicheria it is inspired by its Peruvian version.

7 Lai’Tcha MAP M1 7 Rue du Jour, •

75002 Michelin-starred chef Adeline Grattard’s casual eatery, housed in a handsome modern space, is a dumpling bar in the daytime and a Chinese bistro in the evening – think scallop sticky rice and king crab rolls.

8 Experimental Cocktail Club MAP F3 • 37 Rue St Sauveur, 75002 Although French wine will always reign supreme, the cocktails at this speakeasy-style bar are a welcome addition to the drink options in Les Halles. Dress to impress and prepare to elbow your way to the busy bar.

Ses Gouts 9 Chacun MAP N1 20 Rue Montorgueil, •

75001 With fresh, rich milk from Normandy, and French sweets and fruits for garnishing, this elegant frozen yoghurt shop shouldn’t be missed.

4 Champeaux MAP N1 La Canopée, Forum 0 Grillé des Halles, Porte Rambuteau, 75001 MAP N1 •

Chef Alain Ducasse specializes in French classics and creative cocktails at this ultra-contemporary diner. Good service makes it a perfect stop at any time of the day.

• 6 Rue des Petits Carreaux, 75002 A new-generation gourmet kebab spot, Grillé serves delicious high-quality meats and baked-toorder flatbreads.

Beaubourg and Les Halles ❮❮ 91

Places to Eat Les Halles 1 AG MAP N1 14 Rue Mondétour, •

75001 01 42 61 37 17 €€€ Liberian-born chef Alan Geaam has three bistros in Paris, but the Les Halles spot is the prettiest thanks to its Art Deco glass ceiling. The food is excellent and creatively presented. •

•

Au Pied de Cochon

2 MAP M1

• 6 Rue Coquillière, 75001 • 01 40 13 77 00 • €€ A Les Halles favourite, this specializes in pig dishes. There are traditional brasserie options too, such as oysters and steak. Open 24 hours a day.

d’Auvergne 3 L’Ambassade MAP P1 22 Rue du Grenier •

St-Lazare, 75003 • 01 42 72 31 22 • Closed 2 weeks in Aug • €€ With the ambience of a rustic inn, this restaurant transports you to rural Auvergne. Plenty of pork and cabbage dishes are served here. Shared tables; good for solo diners.

de Montlhéry, 4 Tour Chez Denise MAP M2 • 5 Rue des Prouvaires, 75001 • 01 42 36 21 82 • Closed Sat, Sun mid-Jul–mid-Aug • €€ A Les Halles legend for its huge portions and convivial atmosphere. Book in advance.

PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50

Beaubourg 7 Café MAP P2 43 Rue St-Merri, •

75001 • 01 48 87 63 96 • €€€ The terrace here overlooks the Pompidou Centre. Steak tartare is a house special.

Montorgueil 8 L’Escargot MAP N1 38 Rue Montorgueil, •

75001 • 01 42 36 83 51 • €€€ At the heart of Rue Montorgueil, this Parisian institution is known for its signature French dish of snails, after which it is named. Enjoy the view from the terrace.

Georges 9 Le MAP G4 Centre Georges •

Pompidou, 19 Rue Beaubourg, 75004 • 01 44 78 47 99 • Closed Tue • €€€ Sleek design and a great view make this museum restaurant a superb choice for a glamorous night out.

Hangar 5 Le MAP G4 12 Impasse •

Berthaud, 75003 • 01 42 74 55 44 • Closed Sun & Mon • €€ This small, friendly bistro is no secret to the locals, who keep returning for the fabulous food, including the steak tartare and great desserts such as moelleux au chocolat.

Le Tambour

6 MAP N1

• 41 Rue Montmartre, 75002 • 01 42 33 06 90 • €€ This 24-hour bistro draws a lively crowd with its friendly service and hearty French fare.

Interior of Benoit bistro

0 Benoit MAP P1

• 20 Rue St-Martin, 75004 • 01 42 72 25 76 • Closed Aug • €€€ Opened in 1912, this Michelin-starred location is, justifiably, the most expensive bistro in Paris. Try the lunchtime menu to keep the cost down.

See map on p84

92 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Marais and the Bastille For many, the Marais is one of the most enjoyable quarters of Paris, with chic shops, galleries and dining, as well as fine museums and atmospheric medieval lanes, but the district was little more than a muddy swamp until Henri IV built the Place Royale (now Place des Vosges) in 1605. Following its notoriety as the birthplace of the Revolution, the Bastille district sank into oblivion, until artists and designers arrived in the 1990s. Its streets are now home to the city’s liveliest nightspots.

Statue, Musée Carnavalet

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Marais and the Bastille ❮❮ 93 Cognacq-Jay 1 Musée MAP Q3 8 Rue Elzévir, 75003 •

Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • www.museecognacqjay.paris.fr This small but excellent museum illustrates the sophisticated French lifestyle in the so-called Age of Enlightenment, which centred on Paris. The beautiful 18thcentury art and furniture on display were once the private collection of Ernest Cognacq and his wife, Marie-Louise Jay, founders of the former Samaritaine department store by Pont Neuf. It is superbly displayed in the Hôtel Donon, an elegant late-16th-century town mansion. •

Top 10 Sights see pp93–5

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Paris’s oldest square – one of the world’s most beautiful – was commissioned by Henri IV. Its 36 houses with red-gold brick and stone façades, slate roofs and dormer windows were laid out with striking symmetry in 1612. While the buildings were originally meant to house silk weavers, the likes of Cardinal Richelieu (1585–1642) and playwright Molière (1622–73) quickly moved in; this remains an upper-class residential address. However, everyone can enjoy a stroll around the area and visit the art galleries under the arcades.

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75003 • Open 10:30am–6pm Tue– Fri, 9:30am–6pm Sat & Sun • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm (free first Sun of month) • www.museepicasso paris.fr When the Spanish-born artist Pablo Picasso died in 1973, his family donated thousands of his works to the French state in lieu of estate taxes. Thus Paris enjoys the largest collection of Picassos in the world. Housed in the grand Hôtel Salé (see p96), which emerged from extensive renovations in late 2014, the collection (see p52) displays the range of his artistic development, from his Blue and Pink periods to Cubism, and reveals his mastery in a wide range of techniques and materials. Larger sculptures are housed in the garden and courtyard of the museum.

94 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area Carnavalet 4 Musée MAP R3 16 Rue des Francs •

Bourgeois, 75003 • Opening hours are subject to change, check website • Adm • www.carnavalet.paris.fr Devoted to the history of Paris, this renovated museum sprawls through two mansions, the 16thcentury Carnavalet and 17th-century Le Peletier de Saint-Fargeau. The former was the home of Madame de Sévigné, the famous letter-writer, from 1677 to 1696 and a gallery here is devoted to her life. The extensive museum contains period rooms filled with art and portraits, plus Revolutionary artifacts and memorabilia of 18th-century philosophers Rousseau and Voltaire.

de la Bastille 5 Place MAP H5

Originally, the Bastille was a fortress built by Charles V to defend the eastern edge of the city, but it soon became a jail for political prisoners. Angry citizens, rising up against the excesses of the monarchy, stormed the Bastille on 14 July 1789 (see p43) and destroyed this hated symbol of oppression, sparking the French Revolution. In its place is the bronze 52-m- (171-ft-) high Colonne de Juillet (July Column), crowned by the Angel of Liberty, which commemorates those who died in the 1830 and 1848 revolutions. Behind it is the Opéra Bastille, once the largest opera house in the world, which opened on the bicentennial of the Revolution in 1989. In order to divert traffic, certain sections of this busy square have now been pedestrianized. THE JEWISH QUARTER The Jewish Quarter, centred on rues des Rosiers and des Écouffes, was established in the 13th century and has attracted immigrants since the Revolution. Many Jews fled here to escape persecution in Eastern Europe, but were arrested during the Nazi Occupation. Since World War II, Sephardic Jews from North Africa have found new homes here.

Passage Lhomme

Passages 6 The MAP H5

The Bastille has been the quarter of working-class artisans and craft guilds since the 17th century and many furniture makers are still located in these small alleyways, called passages. Rue du Faubourg St-Antoine is lined with shops selling a striking array of traditional period furniture and modern designs, but don’t miss the narrow passages, such as Passage Lhomme, that run off this and other streets in the Bastille. Many artists and craftspeople have their ateliers (workshops) in these atmospheric alleys.

de la Chasse et 7 Musée de la Nature MAP Q2 • 62 Rue des Archives, 75003 • Opening hours are subject to change, check website • Closed public hols • Adm (free first Sun of month) • www.chassenature.org Occupying two well-preserved 17th- and 18th-century mansions, this refurbished museum explores the history of hunting, and humanity’s relationship with the natural world. Curated to resemble the home of a rich collector, the museum displays tapestries and gilt-framed period paintings alongside taxidermy animals, and fascinating curiosity cabinets. There are surprises in each elegantly organized room, from the astonishing Jan Fabre-designed ceiling of owl feathers to the sleepy fox curled up on a chair.

Marais and the Bastille ❮❮ 95 de Lappe 8 Rue MAP H5

Once famous for its 1930s dance halls (bals musettes), rue de Lappe is still the Bastille’s after-dark hotspot. This short, narrow street is filled with bars, clubs, restaurants and cafés, and positively throbs with music. Crowds of night-owls trawl the cobblestones looking for action, and spill into the adjoining rue de la Roquette and rue de Charonne, where there are even more trendy bars and restaurants.

Européenne 9 Maison de la Photographie MAP Q3 • 5–7 Rue de Fourcy, 75004 Open 11am–8pm Wed–Fri, 10am– 8pm Sat & Sun • Adm • www.mepfr.org This excellent gallery showcases contemporary European photography. It is housed in an early-18thcentury mansion, Hôtel Hénault de Cantorbre, where a mix of historic features and modern spaces shows off the gallery’s permanent collection and changing exhibitions of items from its archives. •

de Victor Hugo 0 Maison MAP R4 6 Pl des Vosges, •

75004 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Closed public hols • Adm for exhibitions • www.maisons victorhugo.paris.fr French author Victor Hugo (1802–85) lived on the second floor of the Hôtel de Rohan-Guéménée, the largest house on the place des Vosges, from 1832 to 1848. He wrote most of Les Misérables here (see p48), among other works. In 1903, the house became a museum covering his life.

Busts, Maison de Victor Hugo

A DAY IN THE MARAIS Marché des Enfants Rouges

Merci

Rue Vieille du Temple

Rue des Francs Bourgeois

L’As du Fallafel Rue des Rosiers Hôtel de Béthune-Sully

Musée Carnavalet Ma Bourgogne Place des Vosges Maison de Victor Hugo

Le Train Bleu 500 m (547 yards)

Place de la Bastille

MORNING

Begin at the Musée Carnavalet with its impressive 18th-century memorabilia. Afterwards, walk to the Place des Vosges (see p93): take in the whole square from the fountains in the centre. Have a coffee at Ma Bourgogne (19 Pl des Vosges; 01 42 78 44 64; open 8am–1am daily), right on the square. Head towards Maison de Victor Hugo, then go to the southwest corner of the square, through a wooden door to the garden of the Hôtel de Béthune-Sully (see p96). AFTERNOON

If the weather is nice, join the queue at L’As du Fallafel (see p101) for a hearty falafel wrap to eat in the nearby square Charles-Victor Langlois. Otherwise, for shelter and a greater choice, head for the lively Marché des Enfants Rouges (see p101) and its international food stalls. Spend a leisurely afternoon exploring the Marais, with its narrow, picturesque streets lined with shops and cafés. Pop into the fashionable boutiques along the Rue des Francs Bourgeois and Rue Vieille du Temple; bite into a slice of babka in the Jewish Quarter on Rue des Rosiers; then explore the ultra-hip Upper Marais, where concept store Merci (see p98) holds court. Walk through Place de la Bastille – once the site of the city’s dreaded prison – on the way to dinner in style beneath the chandeliers of Le Train Bleu (20 Blvd Diderot; 01 43 43 09 06), set inside the Gare de Lyon train station. See map on pp92–3

96 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Mansions de Coulanges 6 Hôtel MAP Q2 35 Rue des Francs •

Bourgeois, 75004 This 17th-century mansion was given a fresh makeover by new tenant Collectif Coulanges and is now a concept store and cultural space.

de Béthune-Sully 7 Hôtel MAP R4 62 Rue St-Antoine, •

The beautiful Hôtel de Soubise

de Soubise 1 Hôtel MAP Q2 60 Rue des Francs •

Bourgeois, 75003 • Open 10am– 5:30pm Mon, Wed–Fri, 2–5:30pm Sat & Sun Along with the adjacent Hôtel de Rohan, this mansion contains the national archives.

Salé 2 Hôtel Built in 1656–9 for Aubert de Fontenay, a salt-tax collector, this mansion is now the home of the Musée Picasso (see p93).

Hôtel Guénégaud

3 MAP P3

• 60 Rue des Archives, 75003 • Adm Designed by the architect François Mansart in the mid-17th century, this splendid mansion houses the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature (see p94).

de Beauvais 4 Hôtel MAP P3 68 Rue François •

Miron, 75004 • Closed to the public The young Mozart performed at this 17th-century mansion. Notice the balcony decorated with goats’ heads.

de St-Aignan 5 Hôtel MAP P2 71 Rue du Temple, •

75003 • Open 11am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat & Sun (for permanent exhibits) • Adm • www.mahj.org The plain exterior hides an enormous mansion within. It is now the Museum of Jewish Art and History. Medieval façade of Hôtel de Sens

75004 • Closed to the public, except the bookshop (open 1–7pm Tue– Sun) & the gardens Headquarters of the Centre des Monuments Nationaux, this 17th-century mansion houses a bookshop specializing in French culture and heritage.

de Lamoignon 8 Hôtel MAP Q3 24 Rue Pavée, 75004 •

Closed to the public This mansion was built in 1584 for the daughter of Henri II. •

de Marle 9 Hôtel MAP G4 11 Rue Payenne, •

75003 • Open 12–6pm Wed–Sun; café: 12–6pm Tue–Sun The Swedish Institute and its pretty courtyard café are located here.

de Sens 0 Hôtel MAP Q4 1 Rue Figuier, •

75004 • Closed to the public, except the library One of Paris’s few medieval mansions. Henri IV’s wife Marguerite de Valois (see p22) lived here after their divorce. It is now home to a fine arts library.

Marais and the Bastille ❮❮ 97

Galleries Marian Goodman Thaddeus Ropac 1 Galerie 7 Galerie MAP P2 79 Rue du Temple, MAP Q1 7 Rue Debelleyme, •

75003 • Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sat • mariangoodman.com Housed in a 17th-century mansion, this gallery is a slice of New York style. Artists include Jeff Wall and video-maker Steve McQueen.

Galerie Akié Arichi

2 MAP H5

26 Rue Keller, 75011 • Open 2–7pm Tue–Sat • www. akiearichi.com Exhibitions here cover photography, sculpture and painting, often with an Asian influence. •

•

75003 • Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sat • www.ropac.net A major contemporary gallery, Thaddeus Ropac exhibits new and influential international artists.

Sakura 8 Galerie MAP P3 21 Rue du Bourg •

Tibourg, 75004 • Open noon–8pm Tue–Sat, 2–7pm Sun • www.galeriesakura.com Pop art and daring works by international photographers are showcased at this offbeat gallery.

Alain Gutharc 3 Galerie MAP H4 7 Rue St-Claude, •

75003 • Open 11am–7pm Tue– Sat • www.alaingutharc.com Alain Gutharc devotes his space to the work of contemporary French artists.

Daniel 4 Galerie Templon MAP P2 • 30 Rue Beaubourg, 75003 • Open 10am–7pm Tue– Sat • Closed Aug • www. danieltemplon.com A favourite among the French contemporary art establishment, this gallery exhibits cuttingedge artists. Quirky exhibits at Galerie Sakura

Karsten Greve Zwirner 5 Galerie 9 David MAP R2 5 Rue Debelleyme, MAP Q1 108 Rue Vieille du •

75003 • Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sat • www.galerie-karsten-greve.com A leading international gallery with top names in modern and contemporary art and photography.

Patrick 6 Galerie Seguin MAP H4 • 5 Rue des Taillandiers, 75011 • Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat • www.patrickseguin.com This gallery features stylish 20thcentury furniture and architecture, including works by French architect and designer Jean Prouvé.

•

Temple, 75003 • Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sat • www.davidzwirner.com This powerhouse contemporary art gallery represents a global roster of major artists; the Paris branch is its sixth outpost.

0 Galerie20Vosges MAP H4 20 Pl des Vosges •

75004 • Open 11am–7:30pm Wed– Sun • www.galerie20vosges.com Contemporary artists, painters and sculptors showcase their unique work under the arcades of the regal Place des Vosges. See map on pp92–3

98 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Fashion and Accessory Shops

Lovely decor at Merci, a fashion-forward concept store

1 Merci MAP R2

111 Blvd Beaumarchais, 75003 This trendy multi-brand store stocks clothes and accessories alongside stylish homewares. •

2 Anatomica MAP P3 14 Rue du Bourg •

Tibourg, 75004 One of the best men’s stores in the city, carrying perfectly tailored clothes, and leather shoes from cult brand Alden.

Bompard 3 Eric MAP R3 14 Rue de Sévigné, •

75004 Everything is soft at this cashmere specialist – sweaters, scarves, gloves and much more.

et Lili 4 Antoine MAP Q2 51 Rue des Francs •

Bourgeois, 75004 Behind the bright pink shopfront, chic and easy-to-wear clothes for women are inspired by Romani and Asian styles, and made using vibrant natural fabrics. They sell children’s clothes and home furnishings too.

in bright colours, limited-edition patterns and pretty Liberty prints for kids as well as adults.

Paris 6 Monsieur MAP R1 53 Rue Charlot, •

75003 This store sells delicate gold and silver jewellery. Designer Nadia Azoug is often at work in the on-site atelier.

7 Sessùn MAP H5 34 Rue de Charonne, •

75011 This is the flagship store of the young, French womenswear label, which has chic, edgy clothes and accessories.

8 K.MAPJacques Q3 16 Rue Pavée, 75004 •

The classic Saint-Tropez sandal, given iconic status by Brigitte Bardot and never out of fashion, is stocked here, in some 60 styles and colours.

Marant 9 Isabel MAP H5 16 Rue de Charonne, •

75011 This designer is getting a lot of recognition outside France for her hip but elegant pieces.

Autour du Monde 5 Home 0 Bonton MAP G4 8 Rue des Francs MAP R1 5 Blvd des Filles du •

Bourgeois, 75003 • 01 42 77 06 08 French designer Serge Bensimon’s popular concept store stocks the brand’s classic canvas sneakers

•

Calvaire, 75003 A gorgeous store for kids, this has three levels of clothes, accessories, toys and even a vintage photo booth.

Marais and the Bastille ❮❮ 99

Specialist Shops Frères Bar à Parfum 1 Mariage 5 Liquides MAP Q3 30 Rue du Bourg MAP G3 9 Rue Normandie, •

Tibourg, 75004 This famous tea house was founded in 1854 and sells all kinds of blends, as well as tea-making paraphernalia.

•

75003 Behind its elegant black storefront in the Upper Marais, Liquides carries scents that you won’t find anywhere else.

Genin 2 Jacques à MAP G3 133 Rue de Turenne, 6 L’Arbre Lettres 75003 •

This trendy chocolatier is adored for his caramels and fruit jellies. He also bakes a fantastic millefeuille.

Manufacture 3 La de Chocolat MAP H4 • 40 Rue de la Roquette, 75011 The chocolaterie of Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse smells divine – and has the taste to back it up.

4 Fragonard MAP Q2 51 Rue des Francs •

Bourgeois, 75004 If you can’t visit this perfumemaker’s factory in the south of France, pick up some soaps and scents in this fragrant boutique.

MAP H5 • 62 Rue du Faubourg St-Antoine, 75012 This beautiful bookshop specializes in fine arts, literature and human sciences.

L’Arbre à Lettres

7 AMAPl’Olivier H5 23 Rue de Rivoli, •

75004 Opened in 1822, this shop specializes in sourcing the finest Provençal and Mediterranean olive oils, along with other culinary delights.

Tigre 8 Papier MAP R1 5 Rue des Filles •

du Calvaire, 75003 Stylish graphic notebooks, greeting cards and other quirkily designed paper products are on offer at this modern stationery shop.

9 Izraël MAP P3

• 30 Rue François Miron, 75004 Also called the “World of Spices”, this tiny store is a treasure trove of cheese, wine, rum, honey, mustard and myriad other delights.

Saint Paul 0 Village MAP R4 Between •

Soaps and scents at Fragonard

Rue St-Paul and Rue des Jardins St-Paul, 75004 An intriguing maze of art galleries, fine antiques and design shops, tucked away behind Eglise St-Paul. See map on pp92–3

100 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Fashionable Hang-outs the Hôtel de Ville for some above-par brews. It also boasts a shop that stocks coffee beans and unusual jams, as well as a coffee-tasting school.

In 5 Pop MAP H4

• 105 Rue Amelot, 75011 This shabby-chic bar and nightclub has good-value drinks, friendly staff, a cool crowd and funky DJs. It’s open seven days a week until late.

de l’Industrie 6 Café MAP H4 16 Rue St-Sabin, •

75011 A fashionable and sizable café that has three rooms where the walls are lined with paintings and old-fashioned artifacts. The food is inexpensive but pretty good, and the later it gets the better the buzz. Kitsch decor in Andy Wahloo

Andy Wahloo

1 MAP Q1

69 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003 In one of Henri IV’s former mansions, pop art and North African decor form a backdrop for some of the city’s most fashionable soirées. •

Zéro Zéro

2 MAP H4

89 Rue Amelot, 75011 It doesn’t get much cooler than this den-like bar with wood panelling and flowered wallpaper. Though not listed on the menu, cocktails are a speciality. •

La Perle

3 MAP Q2

• 78 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 • 01 42 72 69 93 This bistro is one of Paris’s most famous hang-outs. Its straightforward menu draws a fashionable crowd in the evenings.

La Caféothèque de Paris

4 MAP P4

•

52 Rue de l’Hôtel

de Ville, 75004 Coffee enthusiasts congregate at this coffee roaster located behind

7 Grazie MAP H4

• 91 Blvd Beaumarchais, 75003 • 01 42 78 11 96 An Italian pizzeria with an industrial loft-style decor, Grazie serves authentic pizzas and classy cocktails, and attracts a hip crowd.

Panic Room 8 Le MAP H4 101 Rue Amelot, •

75011 Top Parisian DJs set the tone at this quirky bar offering fancy cocktails, a smoking room and cellar dance floor.

Square Trousseau 9 Le MAP H5 1 Rue Antoine •

Vollon, 75012 This charming Bastille district brasserie, with its lovely heated terrace, is something of a media haunt, serving good food from breakfast into the early hours.

Progrès 0 Le MAP R2 1 Rue de Bretagne, •

75003 • 01 42 72 01 44 The terrace of this corner café in the trendy Upper Marais is the place to be during Paris Fashion Week.

Marais and the Bastille ❮❮ 101

Places to Eat 1 L’Ambroisie MAP R3 9 Pl des Vosges, •

75004 01 42 78 51 45 Closed Sun, Mon • €€€ The finest service matches the finest of food and wine. The chocolate tart is out of this world. Reserve ahead. •

2

•

Marché des Enfants Rouges

MAP R1 • 39 Rue de Bretagne, 75003 • Closed Mon • € Food from Morocco to the Caribbean is available at this old covered market. It gets crowded at weekends but is perfect for lunch during the week.

Carette

3 MAP G4

25 Pl des Vosges, 75003 • 01 48 87 94 07 • €€ Salads and sandwiches, as well as delicious cakes, feature at this lovely patisserie and tea room on the picturesque Place des Vosges (see p69). •

Chez Paul

4 MAP H5

• 13 Rue de Charonne, 75011 • 01 47 00 34 57 • €€ An old-style bistro with a simple but delicious menu and excellent wine list. Reserve your table ahead.

PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50

Clown Bar 5 Le MAP H4 114 Rue Amelot, •

75011 • 01 43 55 87 35 • Closed Mon & Tue • €€€ Inventive dishes and natural wines served in a circus-themed, Art Nouveau setting. Try the meaty pithiviers (pies).

Café 6 Breizh MAP G4 109 Rue Vieille du •

Temple, 75003 • 01 42 72 13 77 • €€ An award-winning crêperie offering savoury and sweet Breton pancakes. The selection of buckwheat galettes includes daily specials.

Baron Rouge 7 Le MAP H5 1 Rue Théophile •

Roussel, 75012 • 01 43 43 14 32 • Closed Mon • € Cold meats, cheeses and oysters are served in an authentic setting next to Marché d’Aligre (see p71).

Temps de Cerises 8 Le MAP R4 31 Rue de la Cerisaie, •

75004 • 01 42 72 08 63 • €€ One of the oldest restaurants in Paris, serving bacon-wrapped scallops, escargot and a selection of desserts.

9 Septime MAP H5 80 Rue de Charonne, •

75011 • 01 43 67 38 29 • €€€ Dishes such as cress and sorrel risotto and veal tartare are served at this modern restaurant. Book ahead.

du Fallafel 0 L’As MAP Q3 34 Rue des Rosiers, •

Interior of Chez Paul

75004 • 01 48 87 63 60 • Closed Fri D, Sat • € This is one of the best falafel joints in the city. The special with aubergine and spicy sauce is a must. See map on pp92–3

102 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Tuileries and Opéra Quarters These two quarters were once the province of the rich and the royal, and there’s still an air of luxury about them. Adjoining the lovely Tuileries Gardens is the largest museum in the world, the Louvre, while the grand Opera House gives the second quarter its name. The Place de la Concorde is one of the most historic sites in the city. Statue of Medea, Jardin des Tuileries

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Tuileries and Opéra Quarters ❮❮ 103 du Louvre 1 Musée See pp12–15. de Rivoli 2 Rue MAP M2

Commissioned by Napoleon and named for his victory over the Austrians at Rivoli in 1797, this grand street links the Louvre with the Champs-Elysées (see p111). It was intended as a backdrop for his victory marches but was not finished until the 1850s, long after the emperor’s death. Along one side, railings replaced the old Tuileries walls, opening up the view, while opposite, Neo-Classical apartments sit atop the long arcades. These are now lined with a mix of shops that sell everything from luxury goods to tourist souvenirs.

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de la Concorde 3 Place MAP D3

This historic octagonal square, covering more than 8 ha (20 acres), was built between 1755 and 1775 as the grand setting for a statue of Louis XV; by 1792 it had become the Place de la Révolution and its central monument was the guillotine. Louis XVI, Marie-Antoinette and more than 1,000 others were executed here (see p43). In 1795, in the spirit of reconciliation, it received its present name. The central obelisk, 23 m (75 ft) tall and covered in hieroglyphics, is from a 3,300-year-old Luxor temple, and was a gift from Egypt, erected in 1833. Two fountains and eight statues represent French cities. On the north side of the square are the Hôtel de la Marine and Hôtel Crillon.

des Tuileries 4 Jardin MAP J2

These gardens (see p56) were first laid out as part of the old Tuileries Palace, which was built for Catherine de Médicis in 1564 but burned down in 1871. André Le Nôtre redesigned them into formal French gardens in 1664. At the Louvre end is the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, erected by Napoleon in 1808. Also here is the entrance to an underground shopping centre, the Carrousel du Louvre. Nearby, sensuous nude sculptures by Aristide Maillol (1861–1944) adorn the ornamental pools and walkways. At the far end are the Jeu de Paume gallery (see p53) and the Musée de l’Orangerie (see p52), famous for its giant canvases of Monet waterlilies.

104 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area STORMING OF THE TUILERIES Visiting the Tuileries Gardens now, where children play and lovers stroll, it is hard to imagine the scenes that took place here on 20 June 1792. The palace and gardens were invaded by French citizens seeking to overthrow the monarchy. This was finally achieved on 10 August, when the Tuileries Palace was sacked and Louis XVI overthrown.

des Arts 5 Musée Décoratifs MAP M2 • 107 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm Thu for temporary exhibitions) • Adm • www.madparis.fr This huge collection covers the decorative arts from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. With over 100 rooms, its many highlights include the Medieval and Renaissance galleries, the Art Deco rooms and a superb jewellery collection. There are also displays of fashion, textiles, posters and advertising ephemera showcased in permanent and temporary exhibitions.

•

Vivienne and 6 Galerie Galerie Colbert MAP E3 • Galerie Vivienne: 4 Rue des Petits Champs, 75002; Galerie Colbert: 4 Rue Vivienne, 75002 • Galerie Vivienne: open 8:30am– 8:30pm daily; Galerie Colbert: open 9am–8pm daily These two 19th-century covered arcades are arguably the most beautiful of the few remaining passages. Built to rival each other, both feature frescoed floors and elegant lighting fixtures that entrall visitors. Today, they house shops, cafés and classes for students at the University of Paris.

square are some of the most upmarket épiceries (food stores) and speciality shops in the city.

8 Palais-Royal MAP L1 8 Rue Montpensier, •

75001 • Open Oct–Mar: 7am–8:30pm daily (Apr–May: to 10:15pm daily, Jun– Aug: to 11pm daily, Sep: to 9:30pm daily) • Public access to gardens & arcades only In the late 18th century extensive changes were made under the dukes of Orléans. The architect Victor Louis was commissioned to build 60 uniformly styled houses around three sides of the square and the adjacent theatre, which now houses the Comédie-Française (see p65). Today the arcades house specialist shops, galleries and restaurants, and the courtyard and gardens contain modern works of art (see p45).

National 9 Opéra de Paris Garnier MAP E2 • Pl de l’Opéra, 75009 01 71 25 24 23 • Open 10am– 6pm daily for pre-booked, timed slots (to 2:30pm on days of matinee performances and public hols) • Adm • www.operadeparis.fr Designed by Charles Garnier for Napoleon III in 1862, Paris’s opulent opera house took 13 years to complete. A range of styles from Classical to Baroque incorporates stone friezes and columns, statues •

de la Madeleine 7 Place MAP D3

Surrounded by 52 Corinthian columns, the Classical-style Madeleine church (see p48) commands this elegant square (see p70). On the east side a colourful flower market takes place from Monday to Saturday. Around the

Place Vendôme and Vendôme column

Tuileries and Opéra Quarters ❮❮ 105 A DAY IN THE TUILERIES Fauchon

Place de la Madeleine Place de la Concorde

Galerie Vivienne

Da Rosa Le Meurice

Pont de la Concorde

Jardin des Tuileries Rue de Rivoli

Performance at Opéra Garnier

and a green copper cupola. The ornate interior has a grand staircase, mosaic domed ceiling over the grand foyer and an auditorium with a ceiling by Marc Chagall. There’s even an underground lake – the inspiration for Gaston Leroux’s Phantom of the Opera – sadly closed to visitors (see p64).

Vendôme 0 Place MAP E3

Jules Hardouin-Mansart, the architect of Versailles (see p155), designed the façades of this elegant royal square for Louis XIV in 1698. It was originally intended for foreign embassies, but bankers soon moved in and built lavish dwellings. It remains home to jewellers and financiers today. The worldfamous Ritz hotel was established here at the turn of the 20th century. The column, topped by a statue of Napoleon, is a replica of the one destroyed by the Commune in 1871.

Galerie Colbert Jardin du Palais-Royal Louvre

MORNING

Visiting the Louvre (see pp12–15) takes planning, and you should pre-book a timed entry slot online or in person at the ticket desk. Pick up a map as you enter so that you can be sure to see the main highlights. Enjoy a morning coffee in an elegant café in the Richelieu or Denon wings within the museum. From the Louvre, either take a quick detour to Buren’s columns in the Jardin du Palais-Royal (see p56) or stroll west along Rue de Rivoli (see p103). Turn right onto Rue Rouget de Lisle and walk to the bottom to reach Da Rosa, a creative little bistro (19 bis Rue du Mont Thabor; 01 77 37 37 87; open 11am–11:30pm daily). AFTERNOON

Get some fresh air in the Jardin des Tuileries (see p103) then walk down to Place de la Madeleine to spend the afternoon browsing in its many gourmet stores, or visit the Galerie Vivienne and Galerie Colbert. Later, take tea in the café of one of the best shops, Fauchon (see p106). Walk down through Place de la Concorde (see p103) towards the 18th-century Pont de la Concorde to take in the views over the Seine. Look west towards the Eiffel Tower (see pp24–5) to catch a spectacular sunset panorama. Finish the day with a gastronomic dinner at two-Michelin-starred Le Meurice (see p107).

See map on pp102–3

106 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Food Shops Maison de la Truffe 5 La MAP D3 19 Pl de la •

Madeleine, 75008 France’s finest black truffles are sold here during the winter. Preserved truffles and other delicacies can be savoured in the shop or at home.

Maison du Miel 6 La MAP D3 24 Rue Vignon, •

75009 The “house of honey”, family-owned since 1908, is the place to try speciality honeys, to spread on your toast or your body in the form of soaps and oils. The chic Pierre Hermé café

Hermé 1 Pierre MAP E3 39 Ave de l’Opéra, •

75002 Follow the rainbow of exquisite macarons in classic and more intriguing flavours at this shop.

Grolet Opéra 2 Cedric MAP E3 35 Ave de l’Opéra, •

75002 Award-winning pâtissier Cedric Grolet’s stunning cakes and fruit tarts appear as art against the minimalist decor of his shop.

Kaspia 4 Caviar MAP D3 17 Pl de la •

• 6 Pl de la Madeleine, 75008 The retail outlet for one of France’s finest mustard-makers. Fresh mustard is served in lovely ceramic jars and seasonal limited-edition mustards are also available.

Maison du Chocolat 8 La MAP E3 8 Blvd de la •

Madeleine, 75009 A superb chocolate shop, which offers fine chocolates and exquisite patisserie including eclairs, tarts and mouthwatering macarons.

de 3 Marquise Sévigné MAP D3 • 16 Rue Tronchet, 75008 Chocolates and dragées (sugar-coated almonds) are the speciality at this haven for those with a sweet tooth.

7 Maille MAP D3

9 Fauchon MAP D3 11, 24–30 •

Pl de la Madeleine, 75008 The king of Parisian épiceries (grocers). The mouthwatering window displays are works of art Fauchon and tempt you inside for biscuit tin pastries, exotic fruits and some 3,500 other items.

Madeleine, 75008 The peak of indulgence. Choose from caviars from around the world, plus smoked eel, salmon and other fishy fare, along with a wide range of vodkas. Try an amazing baked potato with caviar in the upstairs dining room.

0 Ladurée MAP D3 16 Rue Royale, •

75008 This splendid belle époque tea salon has been serving some of the best macarons in Paris since 1862.

Tuileries and Opéra Quarters ❮❮ 107

Places to Eat Marly 1 Café MAP E4 93 Rue de Rivoli,

PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges

•

75001 01 49 26 06 60 €€ Set in one of Paris’s most enchanting locations, this brasserie (see p68) overlooks the glass pyramid of the Louvre. The menu is creative and irresistible. •

•

6 Kunitoraya MAP E3 1 Rue Villedo, 75001 •

Le Meurice

2 MAP E3

01 47 03 33 65 • Closed Wed • € There’s often a queue at this bustling udon bar serving perfect noodles in a rich broth. A larger sister restaurant is along the road at No. 5. •

• 228 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 • 01 44 58 10 55 • Closed Sat, Sun, Aug • €€€ Try exquisite dishes with pure flavours at Alain Ducasse’s splendid two-Michelin-starred venue.

Grand Véfour 3 Le MAP E3 17 Rue de Beaujolais, •

75001 • 01 42 96 56 27 • Closed Sat, Sun, Aug, some of Dec • €€€ Guy Martin’s beautiful 18th-century restaurant has two Michelin stars and is a gourmet treat.

Lucas Carton

4 MAP D3

€ under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50

Piège – 7 Jean-François Le Grand Restaurant MAP D3 • 7 Rue Aguesseau, 75008 • 01 53 05 00 00 • €€€ Located in an elite area, this chic restaurant (see p66) with striking and elegant interiors provides modern French cuisine.

de la Paix 8 Cafe MAP E3 5 Pl de l’Opéra, •

9 Pl de la Madeleine, 75008 • 01 42 65 22 90 • Closed Sun, Aug, public hols • €€€ Chef Julien Dumas takes the reins at one of Paris’s oldest gourmet restaurants. Superb quality food. •

75009 • 01 40 07 36 36 • €€€ Step back in time at this stunning gourmet restaurant (see p68), which first opened its doors in 1862. The café boasts a beautiful frescoed interior and the menu concentrates on seasonal produce.

Castiglione 5 Café MAP E3 235 Rue St-Honoré, 9 Restaurant du Palais Royal 75001 01 42 60 68 22 €€ •

•

•

The burgers at this classic brasserie are so popular that even the style gurus of Fashion Week will indulge.

MAP E3 • 110 Galerie de Valois, 75001 • 01 40 20 00 27 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€€ Contemporary French food is served in the bucolic setting of the PalaisRoyal gardens (see p57).

0 Verjus MAP E3

The elegant Café Castiglione

• 52 Rue de Richelieu, 75001 • 01 42 97 54 40 • Closed Sat, Sun • €€€ You need to book in advance for the set six-course gourmet dinner in the intimate dining room, but you can simply turn up to enjoy a lighter bite in the wine bar (47 Rue Montpensier), which doesn’t accept bookings.

See map on pp102–3

110 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Champs-Elysées Quarter The Champs-Elysées is the most famous street in Paris and the quarter that lies around it radiates wealth and power. It is home to the president of France, embassies and haute couture fashion houses, as well as five-star hotels and fine restaurants. The Champs-Elysées runs from Place de la Concorde to Place Charles de Gaulle, and it’s here that France celebrates national events or mourns at Petit Palais the funeral cortèges of the great and good.

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Champs-Elysées Quarter ❮❮ 111 de Triomphe 1 Arc See pp30–31. des Champs2 Avenue Elysées MAP C3 One of the most famous avenues in the world came into being when the royal gardener André Le Nôtre planted an arbour of trees beyond the border of the Jardin des Tuileries (see p103) in 1667. First called the Grand Cours (Great Way), it was later renamed after the Elysian Fields. In the mid19th century it acquired pedestrian paths, fountains, gas lights and cafés, and became a fashionable place for socializing and entertainment. Since the funeral of Napoleon in 1840, it has

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been the route for state processions, victory parades and other city events. The Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées is the prettiest part, with chestnut trees and flowerbeds. Today, the avenue has a car-free day on the first Sunday of every month, allowing visitors to experience it without any traffic. A walk along this thoroughfare is an essential Paris experience.

Palais 3 Grand MAP D3 3 Ave du Général•

Eisenhower, 75008 • 01 44 13 17 17 • Closed for renovations until 2024 • www.grandpalais.fr This immense belle époque exhibition hall was built for the Universal Exhibition in 1900. Its splendid glass roof is a landmark of the ChampsElysées. The façade is a mix of Art Nouveau ironwork, Neo-Classical stone columns and a mosaic frieze, with bronze horses and chariots at the four corners of the roof. The Galleries du Grand Palais host temporary art exhibitions.

Alexandre III 4 Pont MAP D3

Built for the 1900 Universal Exhibition to carry visitors over the Seine to the Grand and Petit Palais, this bridge (see p55) is a superb example of the steel architecture and ornate Art Nouveau style popular at the time. Named after Alexander III of Russia, who laid the foundation stone, its decoration displays both Russian and French heraldry. The bridge creates a splendid thoroughfare from the Champs-Elysées to the Hôtel des Invalides.

112 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area in 1969, the area is still referred to simply as l’Etoile, “the star”. The present place was laid out in accordance with Baron Haussmann’s plans of 1854. For motorists, it is the ultimate challenge, as traffic laws don’t really apply here.

du Faubourg 7 Rue St-Honoré MAP D3 Running parallel to the ChampsElysées, this is Paris’s equivalent of fashionable Fifth Avenue, Bond Street or Rodeo Drive. From Saint Laurent and Givenchy to Gucci and Hermès, the shopfronts read like a Who’s Who of fashion. Even if the prices may be out of reach, window-shopping is fun. There are also elegant antiques and art galleries. Look out for swallows that nest on many of the 19thcentury façades. The imposing Petit Palais

Palais 5 Petit MAP D3 Ave Winston Churchill, •

75008 • 01 53 43 40 00 • Open 10am– 6pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm Fri for temporary exhibitions) • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 14 Jul, 25 Dec • www.petitpalais.paris.fr The “little palace” echoes its iconic neighbour, the Grand Palais, in style. It is graced with Ionic columns and a dome. The palace was initially built for the Exposition Universelle in 1900, but now it houses the Musée des Beaux Arts de la Ville de Paris (see p72). The wing close to the river is used for temporary exhibitions, while the Champs-Elysées side of the palace houses the permanent collections featuring Greek and Roman artifacts, medieval and Renaissance clocks and jewellery, and furniture from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries.

Charles de Gaulle 6 Place MAP C3 Ave des Champs•

Elysées, 75008 Known as the Place de l’Etoile until the death of Charles de Gaulle

Montaigne 8 Avenue MAP C3

In the 19th century the Avenue Montaigne was a nightlife hotspot. Parisians danced the night away at the Mabille Dance Hall until it closed in 1870 and Adolphe Sax made music with his newly invented saxophone in the Winter Garden. Today this chic avenue is the most fashionable street and a rival to the Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré as it is home to more haute couture houses, such as Christian Dior and Valentino. There are also luxury hotels, top restaurants, popular cafés, and the Comédie des Champs-Elysées and Théâtre des Champs-Elysées. LA MARSEILLAISE The stirring French national anthem was written in 1792 by a French army engineer named Claude Joseph Rouget de Lisle. He lived for a time in this district, at 15 Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré. The rousing song got its name due to being sung by the troops from Marseille who were prominent in the storming of the Tuileries during the Revolution (see p43).

Champs-Elysées Quarter ❮❮ 113 de l’Elysée 9 Palais MAP D3 55 Rue du Faubourg •

St-Honoré, 75008 • Closed to the public Built in 1718, after the Revolution this elegant palace (see p47) was turned into a dance hall, then, in the 19th century, became the residence of Napoleon’s sister Caroline Murat, followed by his wife Empress Josephine. His nephew, Napoleon III, also lived here while plotting his 1851 coup. Since 1873 it has been the home of the president of France. For this reason, it is worth noting that the palace guards don’t like people getting too close to the building.

A DAY OF SHOPPING

Arc de Triomphe Prince de Galles Le Cinq Avenue Georges V

Avenue des Champs Elysées 1 km (0.5 miles) Ladurée

Avenue Montaigne Grand Palais Bar des Théâtres

MORNING

The Champs-Elysées quarter is a good area for leisurely walks. Start the morning strolling the grounds of the belle époque Grand Palais (see p111). The galleries host excellent exhibitions. Make your way to the Avenue Montaigne for exquisite windowshopping – Prada and Dior, among others, have their flagship stores here. Take a break in the Bar des Théâtres (44 Rue Jean Goujon; 01 45 62 04 91; closed Sun D), where fashion names and the theatre crowd from the Comédie des Champs-Elysées hang out.

Musée Jacquemart-André

Jacquemart0 Musée André MAP C2 • 158 Blvd Haussmann, 75008 01 45 62 11 59 • Open 10am–6pm daily (to 8:30pm Mon for temporary exhibits) • Adm • www.museejacquemart-andre.com This fine display of art and furniture, once belonging to avid collectors Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, is housed in a late19th-century mansion. It is best known for its Italian Renaissance works, including frescoes by Tiepolo and Paolo Uccello’s St George and the Dragon (c.1435). The reception rooms feature the art of the 18th-century “Ecole française”, with paintings by François Boucher and Jean-Honoré Fragonard. A charming period tearoom overlooks the gardens. •

Call ahead for a table at Le Cinq (see p117) to splurge on lunch, and head up the elegant Avenue Georges V, which is lined with luxury boutiques including Armani and Kenzo, and grande-dame hotels such as legendary Prince de Galles (see p173). AFTERNOON

Walk to and along the ChampsElysées (see p111), with French chanteur Joe Dassin’s jaunty 1969 tune in mind. The flagship stores of lots of high-end brands are here, along with luxury car showrooms and fast-food outlets – housed in some notable buildings. For tea and cakes en route, Ladurée (see p106) is a wonderfully elegant experience. Take the underpass to the Arc de Triomphe (see pp30–31) and climb to the top to admire Baron Haussmann’s star-shaped town grid and other views, which are superb at dusk when the avenues light up.

See map on pp110–11

114 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

International Connections de Marigny 1 Avenue MAP C3 American author John Steinbeck lived here for five months in 1954 and described Parisians as “the luckiest people in the world”.

2 8MAPRueC2Artois

Here, in September 2001, legendary Belgian mobster François Vanverbergh – godfather of the French Connection gang – fell victim to a drive-by assassin as he took his afternoon mineral water.

Avenue Montaigne 3 37 MAP C3

Having wowed Paris with her comeback performances, iconic German actress and singer Marlene Dietrich spent her reclusive final years in a luxury apartment here.

de l’Alma 4 Pont MAP C3

Diana, Princess of Wales, was killed in an accident in the underpass here in 1997. Her unofficial memorial, the Liberty Flame (see p54) attracts thousands of visitors each year.

Avenue George V, 5 31 Hôtel George V MAP C3 A roll-call of rockers – from the Rolling Stones and Jim Morrison to J-Lo and Madonna – have made this hotel their regular Paris home-from-home. Hôtel George V

Marcel Proust

Boulevard 6 102 Haussmann MAP D2 Hypochondriac author Marcel Proust lived in a cork-lined room (on display in the Musée Carnavalet, see p94), turning memories into a masterpiece – In Search of Lost Time.

Avenue George V 7 37 MAP C3

Franklin D. Roosevelt and his new bride Eleanor visited his aunt’s apartment here in 1905. He was later commemorated in the name of a nearby avenue.

Avenue des 8 49 Champs-Elysées MAP C3 Author Charles Dickens may well have had “the best of times and the worst of times” when he resided here during the winter of 1855–6. Ten years earlier he had also lived at 38 Rue de Courcelles.

Avenue des 9 114 Champs-Elysées MAP C2 Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont planned many of his amazing aeronautical feats – notably that of circling the Eiffel Tower in an airship in 1901 – from this address.

Elysée-Palace 0 Hôtel MAP C3

Mata Hari, the Dutch spy and exotic dancer, set up her lair in Room 113 before finally being arrested outside 25 Avenue Montaigne.

Champs-Elysées Quarter ❮❮ 115

Events on the Champs-Elysées July 1989 1 1616 8 14 Paris’s grand avenue was The parade on Bastille Day first laid out when Marie de Médicis, wife of Henri IV, had a carriage route, the Cours-la-Reine (Queen’s Way), constructed through the marshland along the Seine.

2 1667 Landscape gardener Le Nôtre lengthened the Jardin des Tuileries to meet the Cours-la-Reine, and opened up the view with a double row of chestnut trees, creating the Grand Cours.

3 1709 The avenue was renamed the

Champs-Elysées (Elysian Fields). In Greek mythology, the Elysian Fields were the “place of ideal happiness”, the abode of the blessed after death.

marking the bicentennial of the Revolution was a dazzling display of folk culture and avant-garde theatre. It was a distinct change from the usual military events, and was organized by Mitterand’s Culture Minister, Jack Lang.

2016 9 8In May a series of environmentally

friendly measures, the mayor of Paris decreed that the Champs-Elysées would be car-free on the first Sunday of each month, starting May 2016. This also allows pedestrians to experience the beautiful avenue without traffic.

4 1724 The Duke of Antin, overseer of the royal gardens, extended the avenue to the heights of Chaillot, the present site of the Arc de Triomphe (see pp30–31).

August 1944 5 26 Parisians celebrated the liberation of the city from Nazi Occupation with triumphant processions and festivities.

May 1968 6 30 The infamous demonstrations of May 1968, when student protests against state authority spilled over into massive gatherings and riots. De Gaulle and his supporters held a huge counter-demonstration on the Champs-Elysées, marking a turning point in the uprising.

Traffic-free Arc de Triomphe

July 2018 0 15 November 1970 Exactly 20 years after France’s 7 12 The death of President Charles first World Cup victory in 1998, Les de Gaulle was an immense event in France, as he had been a dominant French political figure for 30 years. He was honoured by a silent parade along the Champs-Elysées.

Bleus brought the trophy back home. To mark the day thousands of fans thronged the streets to celebrate France winning the cup, echoing its previous victory. See map on pp110–11

116 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Designer Shops 6 Hermès MAP C3 24 Rue du Faubourg •

St-Honoré, 75008 For timeless chic apparel, handbags and accessories head to this wellknown luxury brand. Shop for beautiful silk scarves here.

Sander 7 Jil MAP C3 56 Ave Montaigne, •

Chanel boutique window

1 Chanel MAP C3 51 Ave Montaigne, •

75008 Chanel classics, from the braided tweed jackets to two-toned shoes, as well as Lagerfeld’s more daring designs, are displayed in this branch of the main rue Cambon store.

Dior 2 Christian MAP C3 30–32 Ave •

Montaigne, 75008 The grey and white decor, with silk bows on chairs, makes a chic backdrop for fashions from lingerie to evening wear.

3 Givenchy MAP C3 28 Rue du Faubourg •

St-Honoré, 75008 This famous fashion house has been synonymous with Parisian style since the 1930s. Shop for women’s and men’s ready-to-wear outfits here.

4 Balenciaga MAP C3 57 Ave Montaigne, •

75008 This world-famous label is known for its modern creations, which are now designed by Demna Gvasalia.

5 Prada MAP C3

• 10 Ave Montaigne, 75008 The iconic Italian designer’s stylish boutique displays clothes and accessories from the latest collection.

75008 A minimal and modern store, just like the clothes it sells. Sander’s trouser suits, cashmere dresses and overcoats in neutral colours are displayed on two floors.

8 Chloé MAP C3

• 50 Ave Montaigne, 75008 Simple, classy, ready-to-wear designer women’s clothes and accessories are sold in this minimalist temple to feminine chic.

9 Eres MAP C3

• 40 Ave Montaigne, 75008 A range of luxury but understated swimwear and lingerie, in subtle colours, is beautifully displayed in this elegant boutique. Everything has a certain Parisian sensuality.

Bui 0 Barbara MAP C3 50 Ave Montaigne, •

75008 High-end Parisian fashion designer Barbara Bui has been creating elegant womenswear and accessories since the 1980s. Her collection is made from colourful, luxury fabrics.

Barbara Bui bag

Champs-Elysées Quarter ❮❮ 117

Places to Eat PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50

Ducasse au 1 Alain Plaza Athénée

6 Epicure MAP D2 112 Rue du •

Faubourg St-Honoré, 75008 • 01 53 43 43 40 • €€€ In Hôtel Le Bristol’s elegant dining room or on the garden terrace, diners can choose from chef Eric Frechon’s three-Michelin-starred menu.

MAP C3 • Plaza Athénée, 25 Ave Montaigne, 75008 • 01 58 00 22 43 • Closed Mon–Wed L, Sat, Sun, Aug, part of Dec • €€€ The menu at Alain Ducasse’s flagship three-Michelin-starred restaurant (see p67) focuses on sustainable fish, cereals and vegetables.

Jardin du Petit Palais 2 Le MAP D3 Petit Palais, Ave •

Winston Churchill, 75008 • 01 40 07 11 41 • Closed Mon, 1 Jan, 1 May, 14 Jul, 25 Dec • € Take a light lunch in the casual café of the Petit Palais, which opens onto a charming enclosed garden.

3 Honor MAP D3

• 54 Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 75008 • 07 82 52 93 63 • Closed Mon–Sat D, Sun • € A good option for breakfast or a light lunch, this friendly courtyard café has toasted wraps, homemade crumpets and craft coffees.

Bellota 4 Bellota MAP C3 11 Rue Clément •

Marot, 75008 • 01 47 20 03 13 • Closed Sun • € This intimate tapas bar and Spanish deli is a great place for excellent tapas, luxurious carvings of jamón ibérico and glasses of Spanish wine.

5 Taillevent MAP C3 15 Rue Lamennais, •

75008 • 01 44 95 15 01 • Closed Sat, Sun, Aug • €€€ One of the city’s best dining (see p66) experiences. The menu changes often, relying on fresh, seasonal ingredients.

Interior of Epicure

7 Gagnaire MAP C3 6 Rue Balzac, 75008 •

01 58 36 12 50 • Closed Sat, Sun, Aug, 1 week Dec–Jan • €€€ Celebrated for his artistry in blending flavours, Pierre Gagnaire (see p67) has three Michelin stars to his name. •

116 8 Le MAP B3

• 2 Rue Auguste Vacquerie, 75116 • 01 47 20 10 45 • €€ Wagyu beef burgers and excellent cocktails are on the menu at this offshoot of the Michelin-starred Pages.

des Chefs 9 L’Atelier MAP D2 10 Rue de •

Penthièvre, 75008 • 01 53 30 05 82 • Closed Mon • www.atelierdes chefs.fr • € This cooking school offers a range of classes in French and you get to eat the meal you’ve made after a session.

Cinq 0 Le MAP C3 31 Ave George V, •

75008 • 01 49 52 71 54 • €€€ The George V’s (see p114) threeMichelin-starred restaurant serves French cuisine with a modern twist. See map on pp110–11

118 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters Two of Paris’s best-known landmarks, the golden-domed Hôtel des Invalides and the Eiffel Tower, are found in these quarters. Large parts of the district were created in the 19th century, when there was still room to construct wide avenues and grassy esplanades. To the east of Les Invalides are stately mansions, now converted into embassies, and the French parliament. Jean Nouvel’s Musée du Quai The top of the Branly – Jacques Chirac is a striking Eiffel Tower feature beside the Seine.

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INVALIDES AND EIFFEL TOWER QUARTERS

Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters ❮❮ 119 des Invalides 1 Hôtel See pp38–9. Tower 2 Eiffel See pp24–5. des Egouts 3 Musée MAP C4 Opposite 93, •

Quai d’Orsay, 75007 • 01 53 68 27 81 • Adm In a city of glamour and grandeur, the sewers (égouts) of Paris are an incongruously popular attraction. They date from the Second Empire (1851–70), when Baron Haussmann was transforming the city (see p43). The sewers, which helped to sanitize and ventilate Paris, are considered one of his finest achievements.

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PontPont de lade la Concorde Concorde

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75007 • Open 10am–6pm daily (to 9pm Tue for temporary exhibitions) • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm The Army Museum (see pp38–9) contains one of the largest and most comprehensive collections of arms, armour and displays on military history in the world, offering a rich and varied visit. The range of weapons on display includes examples from prehistoric times to those used during World War II. Housed in the Hôtel des Invalides, the galleries occupy the old refectories in two wings on either side of the courtyard. The museum’s ticket price includes entry to the Musée des Plans-Reliefs, the Historial Charles de Gaulle, the Musée de l’Ordre de la Libération and Napoleon’s Tomb.

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Engineer Eugène Belgrand provided the designs for the ambitious project. The 2,100-km (1,300-mile) network covers the area from Les Halles to La Villette – if laid end-to-end it would stretch from Paris to Istanbul. An hour-long tour includes a walk through some of the tunnels. The museum, which is situated in the sewers beneath the Quai d’Orsay on the Left Bank, tells the story of the city’s water and sewers, from their beginnings to the present day through exhibits and an audio-visual show. The museum reopened in 2020 after extensive renovations.

Top 10 Sights see pp119–121 Places to Eat see p123 Mansions see p122

Courtyard of the Musée de l’Armée

120 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area Rodin 5 Musée MAP C4 77 Rue de Varenne, •

75007 • Open 10am–6:30pm Tue– Sun • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm • www.musee-rodin.fr An impressive collection of works by Auguste Rodin (1840–1917) is housed in the 18th-century Hôtel Biron (see p122), where the sculptor and artist spent the last nine years of his life. The museum showcases Rodin’s preparatory sketches, watercolours, and bronze and marble masterpieces, including The Kiss and Eve. Exhibits are displayed chronologically and thematically, showing the creative processes behind the artist’s finished sculptures – works that arguably paved the way for modern sculpture. The Musée Rodin is also home to the third-largest private garden in Paris, where works such as The Thinker, Monument to Balzac and The Gates of Hell stand amid the lime trees and rose bushes.

du Quai Branly – 6 Musée Jacques Chirac MAP B4 • 37 Quai Branly, 75007 Open 10:30am–7pm Tue–Sun (to 10pm Thu) • Closed 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm • www.quaibranly.fr The purpose of this museum is to showcase the arts of Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. The collection boasts nearly 300,000 artifacts, of which 3,500 are on display, including a fantastic array of African instruments, •

YOUNG NAPOLEON The most famous alumnus of the Ecole Militaire was Napoleon Bonaparte, who was admitted as a cadet, aged 15, in 1784 and was deemed “fit to be an excellent sailor”. He graduated as a lieutenant in the artillery, and his passing-out report stated that “he could go far if the circumstances are right”. The rest, as they say, is history.

Gabonese masks, Aztec statues and 17th- century painted animal hides from North America (once the pride of the French royal family). Designed by Jean Nouvel, the building is an exhibit in itself: glass is ingeniously used to allow the surrounding greenery to act as a natural backdrop to the collection.

Cler 7 Rue MAP C4

The pedestrianized cobblestone road that stretches south of Rue de Grenelle to Avenue de lLa MottePicquet is the most exclusive market street in Paris. Here greengrocers, fishmongers, butchers and wine merchants sell top-quality produce to the well-heeled residents of the area. Tear yourself away from the mouthwatering displays of cheeses and pastries, however, to feast your eyes on the Art Nouveau building at No. 23, also home to a pleasant café.

Militaire 8 Ecole MAP C5 1 Pl Joffre, •

Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac

75007 • Open during Journée de la Patrimoine (Sep) by special permission only (apply in writing) At the urging of his mistress Madame Pompadour, Louis XV approved the building of the Royal Military Academy in 1751. Its purpose was to educate the sons of impoverished officers. A grand edifice was designed by Jacques-Ange Gabriel, architect of the Place de la Concorde (see p103) and the Petit Trianon at Versailles, and completed in 1773. The central pavilion with its quadrangular dome and Corinthian pillars is a splendid example of the French Classical

Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters ❮❮ 121 style. An early cadet was Napoleon, whose passing-out report stated that “he could go far if the circumstances are right”. The massive complex is still in use as a military school today.

A DAY AROUND THE INVALIDES QUARTER Pont Alexandre III

Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac, Les Ombres

Eiffel Tower, Le Jules Verne

Les Cocottes

Musée de l’Armée Hôtel des Invalides

Musée Rodin

MORNING

Façade of the Ecole Militaire

9 UNESCO MAP C5 7 Pl de Fontenoy, •

75007 • 01 45 68 10 00 • Open by appointment only, book online at www.cultival.fr The headquarters of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) was built in 1958 by an international team of architects from France, Italy and the United States. It is a Y-shaped building of concrete and glass, which showcases 20th-century works by renowned international artists and is well worth a visit. There is a huge mural by Picasso, ceramics by Joan Miró, and a 2nd-century mosaic from El Djem in Tunisia. Outside is a giant mobile by Alexander Calder and a peaceful Japanese garden.

Nationale 0 Assemblée MAP D4 126 Rue de •

l’Université, 75007 • Open for tours only (passport required); advance reservation required, see www. assemblee-nationale.fr Built for the daughter of Louis XIV in 1722, the Palais-Bourbon has housed the lower house of the French parliament since 1827. The Council of the Five Hundred met here during the Revolution, and it was the headquarters of the German Occupation during World War II.

Begin the day with a visit to the Musée Rodin. A magnificent collection of Rodin’s works is displayed both indoors, and outside in the attractive garden. Stop for a coffee on the leafy terrace of the garden café. Alternatively, stroll through the Esplanade des Invalides, with the Hôtel des Invalides (see pp38– 9) as a grand backdrop. Pause to watch the pétanque players who gather in the shade of the trees along the eastern and western sides. Stop in to see Napoleon’s Tomb (see p39) and the Musée de l’Armée (see p119). Towards the Seine, admire the splendid Pont Alexandre III (see p55) before heading towards rue Saint-Dominique for lunch at Les Cocottes (see p123), top chef Christian Constant’s breezy, informal bistro. AFTERNOON

After lunch, follow the Rue de l’Université to the Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac and enjoy the fascinating collections of tribal art and superb modern architecture. Café Jacques, located in the museum’s gardens, is the perfect place to relish a cup of tea. Make sure you book ahead for a late afternoon visit to the Eiffel Tower (see pp24–5). The views are spectacular at dusk. Splash out on dinner at the world-famous Le Jules Verne (see p66) on level 2, or head back to Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac’s rooftop restaurant, Les Ombres (see p123). Book in advance for both.

See map on pp118–19

122 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Mansions

Façade of the elegant Hôtel Biron

Biron d’Estrées 1 Hôtel 6 Hôtel MAP B5 79 Rue de Grenelle, Built in 1730, from 1904 this •

elegant mansion was transformed into state-owned artists’ studios. Among its residents was Auguste Rodin (1840–1917). After the sculptor’s death the house became the Musée Rodin (see p120).

75007 • Closed to the public Three floors of pilasters feature on the 1713 former Russian embassy. Tsar Nicolas II lived here in 1896. It is now the residence of the Russian ambassador.

de Villeroy 2 Hôtel MAP D4 78–80 Rue de

d’Avaray 7 Hôtel MAP B5 85 Rue de Grenelle,

Varenne, 75007 • Closed to the public Built in 1724 for Comédie-Française actress Charlotte Desmarnes, this is now the Ministry of Agriculture.

75007 • Closed to the public Dating from 1728, this mansion belonged to the Avaray family for nearly 200 years. It is now owned by the Dutch government.

•

•

de Matignon 3 Hôtel de Brienne MAP D4 57 Rue de Varenne, 8 Hôtel 75007 Closed to the public MAP D4 14–16 Rue St •

•

•

One of the most beautiful mansions in the area is now the official residence of the French prime minister.

de Boisgelin 4 Hôtel MAP D4 47 Rue de Varenne, •

75007 • Call 01 49 54 03 00 for appointment Built in 1732 by Jean Sylvain Cartaud, this mansion has housed the Italian Embassy since 1938.

Dominique, 75007 • Closed to the public This mansion houses the Ministry of Defence. Napoleon’s mother lived here from 1806 to 1817.

de Noirmoutiers 9 Hôtel MAP B5 138–140 Rue de •

Grenelle, 75007 • Closed to the public Built in 1724, this was once the army staff headquarters. It now houses ministerial offices.

de Gallifet 5 Hôtel de Monaco MAP D4 50 Rue de Varenne, 0 Hôtel de Sagan 75007 Galleries: open 10am–1pm, •

•

3–6pm Mon–Fri This attractive mansion was built between 1776 and 1792 in Classical style. It is now the Italian Cultural Institute.

MAP D4 • 57 Rue St-Dominique, 75007 • Closed to the public Now the Polish ambassador’s house, this 1784 mansion served as the British Embassy until 1825.

Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters ❮❮ 123

Places to Eat Jules Verne 1 Le MAP B4 2nd Level, Eiffel

PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges

•

Tower, 75007 01 45 55 61 44 €€€ Book a window table for the view and then sit back and enjoy fine food from the kitchen of Frédéric Anton. A reservation is required for dinner. •

•

Casse-Noix 2 Le MAP B5 56 Rue de la •

Fédération, 75015 • 01 45 66 09 01 • Closed Sat & Sun • €€ A charming restaurant serving classic desserts such as île flottante (a poached meringue “island” floating on a “sea” of vanilla custard).

3 Arpège MAP D4 84 Rue de Varenne, •

75007 • 01 47 05 09 06 • Closed Sat & Sun • €€€ Among the best restaurants in the city. Chef Alain Passard produces exquisite food.

Toutain 4 David MAP D4 29 Rue Surcouf, •

75007 • 01 45 50 11 10 • Closed Sat & Sun • €€€ Awarded two Michelin stars, Chef David Toutain delivers eclectic cuisine that showcases fine seasonal produce and includes vegetarian dishes. The set lunch menu offers good value.

€ under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50

Constant 5 Café MAP C4 139 Rue •

St-Dominique, 75007 • 01 47 53 73 34 • Closed Tue, Wed • €€ This classic Parisian establishment serves seasonal, modern French fare popular with locals and tourists alike.

6 Thoumieux MAP C4 79 Rue St•

Dominique, 75007 • 01 47 05 79 00 • Closed Aug • €€€ Classic brasserie fare, such as tartare of beef and profiteroles, is served in an Art Deco-inspired dining room.

Jean 7 L’Ami MAP C4 27 Rue Malar, 75007 •

01 47 05 86 89 • Closed Sun & Mon • €€€ Inventive dishes include marinated scallops with ewe’s milk cheese. •

Cocottes 8 Les MAP C4 135 Rue •

St-Dominique, 75007 • 01 45 50 10 28 • Closed Sun & Mon • €€ Star chef Christian Constant’s fun French take on a diner – albeit one that serves lobster bisque.

Ombres 9 Les MAP B4 27 Quai Branly, •

75007 • 01 47 53 68 00 • €€€ Stylish rooftop restaurant offering fine food. At night it’s a great spot for watching the Eiffel Tower twinkle.

Fontaine de Mars 0 La MAP C4 129 Rue •

David Toutain interior

St-Dominique, 75007 • 01 47 05 46 44 • €€€ The rich, hearty cuisine of southwest France can be found here, such as cassoulet and duck confit.

124 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters St-Germain-des-Prés is a synonym for Paris’s café society, made famous by the writers and intellectuals who held court here in the first half of the 20th century. The Latin Quarter has been the scholastic centre of Paris for more than 700 years, and continues to buzz with student bookshops, cafés as well as jazz clubs. The area’s western border is the bustling Boulevard St-Michel; to the south is the Jardin du tranquil greenery of the Luxembourg Quarter. Luxembourg ST-GERMAIN, LATIN AND LUXEMBOURG QUARTERS

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St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters ❮❮ 125 d’Orsay 1 Musée See pp16–19. Panthéon 2 The See pp34–5. du Luxembourg 3 Jardin MAP L6 Rue de Médicis–Rue •

de Vaugirard, 75006 • Open dawn– dusk daily This 25-ha (60-acre) park (see p56) is a swathe of green on the very urban Left Bank. The formal gardens are set around the Palais du Luxembourg (see p45), with broad terraces circling the central octagonal pool. A highlight of the garden is the beautiful Medici

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Fountain (see p57). Statues, erected in the 19th century, include the painter Eugène Delacroix and St Geneviève, patron saint of Paris. There is also a children’s playground, open-air café, a bandstand, tennis courts, a puppet theatre and a bee-keeping school.

4 St-Sulpice MAP L5 2 Rue Palatine,

Top 10 Sights see pp125–7

E Châtelet R I V R I V Châtelet OL OL I I

Palais du Luxembourg

Jardin Jardin desdes Plantes Plantes

Pl St-Sulpice, 75006 • Open 7:30am– 7:30pm daily Begun in 1646, this vast church took 134 years to build. Its Classical façade features a two-tiered colonnade and two incongruously matched towers. The two holy water fonts by the front door are made from huge shells given to François I by the Venetian Republic. The restored Jacob Wrestling with the Angel and other fine murals by Delacroix (1798–1863) are in the chapel to the right of the main door.

Sorbonne 5 La MAP M5 1 Rue Victor Cousin, •

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75005 • 01 40 46 23 48 • Group tours only, 10:30am & 2:30pm Mon, Wed–Fri (advance booking) • Adm This famous university (see p45) was founded in 1253 as a theology college for poor students. It soon became the country’s main centre for religious studies. Philosophers Thomas Aquinas (c.1226–74) and Roger Bacon (1214– 92) taught here; Italian poet Dante (1265–1321), founder of the Jesuits St Ignatius Loyola (1491–1556), and church reformer John Calvin (1509– 64) are among its list of alumni. Its tradition for conservatism led to its closure during the Revolution (it was reopened by Napoleon in 1806) and also the student riots of 1968.

126 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area JAZZ ON THE LEFT BANK Jazz has been played in Paris, especially on the Left Bank, since the 1920s. A great number of black musicians moved here from the US because they found France to be less racially prejudiced than their homeland, and Paris became a second home for many great jazz musicians, such as Sidney Bechet and Albert Nicholas (below). The city has never lost its love of jazz, nor jazz its love for the city.

St-Germain 6 Boulevard MAP J3

This famous Left Bank boulevard runs for more than 3 km (2 miles), anchored by the bridges of the Seine at either end. At its heart is the church of St-Germain-des-Prés, established in 542, although the present church dates from the 11th century. Beyond the famous literary cafés, Flore and Les Deux Magots (see p131), the boulevard runs west past galleries, bookshops and designer boutiques

to the Pont de la Concorde. To the east, it cuts across the Latin Quarter, running through the pleasant street market in the place Maubert, to join the Pont de Sully, which connects to the Ile St-Louis (see p80).

National 7 Musée du Moyen Age MAP N5 • 28 Rue du Sommerard, 75005 • Check website for opening hours • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm • www.musee-moyenage.fr Also known as the Musée de Cluny, this mansion was built by the abbots of Cluny at the end of the 15th century and now houses a magnificent collection of art, from the Gallo-Roman period to the 15th century. It adjoins the ruins of 2nd-century Roman baths (thermes) with their huge vaulted frigidarium (cold bath). Nearby are the 21 carved stone heads of the kings of Judea from Notre-Dame, decapitated during the Revolution. The highlight is the exquisite Lady and the Unicorn tapestry series, representing the five senses (see p50), and the Book of Hours, which shows the Labours of the Months, accompanied by the relevant sign of the zodiac. Since 2016, the museum has been undergoing extensive renovation to modernize the space and improve its accessibility. It is scheduled to reopen to the public in autumn 2021.

Visitors on the fashionable Boulevard St-Germain

St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters ❮❮ 127 St-Michel 8 Boulevard MAP M4

The main drag of the Latin Quarter was created in the late 1860s as part of Baron Haussmann’s citywide makeover (see p43), and named after a chapel that once stood near its northern end. It is now lined with lively cafés, clothes shops and restaurants. To the east are rues de la Harpe and de la Huchette, dating back to medieval times. The latter forms an enclave of the city’s Greek community, with souvlaki stands and Greek restaurants. Place Statue of St-Michel was St Michael a pivotal spot during the Nazi occupation and in the student riots of 1968. Its huge bronze fountain depicts St Michael slaying Satan.

de la Tournelle 9 Quai MAP P5

From this riverbank, just before the Pont de l’Archevêché, there are lovely views across to Notre-Dame. The main attraction of this and the adjacent Quai de Montebello, however, are the dark-green stalls of the bouquinistes (see p128). The Pont de la Tournelle also offers splendid views up and down the Seine.

Musée Maillol

0 MAP J4

• 59–61 Rue de Grenelle, 75007 • Open only for exhibitions: 10:30am–6:30pm daily (to 8:30pm Fri) • www.museemaillol.com Dina Vierny, who modelled for the artist Aristide Maillol (1861–1944) from the age of 15 to 25, went on to set up this foundation dedicated largely to his works. Located in an 18th-century mansion, it features sculpture, paintings, engravings and terracotta works. The museum puts on two temporary exhibitions per year, highlighting modern and contemporary art in its many forms.

A DAY ON THE LEFT BANK Musée d’Orsay, Café Campana L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon Les Deux Magots Boulevard Quai de St-Germain Montebello Musée Café de Maillol Flore Dupin

Shakespeare and Company Quai de la Tournelle

MORNING

This area is as much about atmosphere as sightseeing, so take time to soak up some of that Left Bank feeling. Begin on the Quai de la Tournelle, strolling by the booksellers here and on the adjacent Quai de Montebello, which runs parallel to Rue de la Bûcherie, home to Shakespeare and Company (see p128). From here head south down any street away from the river to the busy Boulevard St-Germain. Turn right for two famous cafés, Café de Flore (see p68) and Les Deux Magots (see p131), and stop for a break at either one, joining the locals talking the morning away. Cut your way south to the Rue de Grenelle and the Musée Maillol, a truly delightful, lesser-known museum. Then enjoy lunch at Dupin (see p133), a popular bistro that attracts a mix of locals and tourists. AFTERNOON

Pre-book a timed entry to the Musée d’Orsay (see pp16–19) and spend an hour or two browsing the collections. The most popular works on display are those of the Impressionists, on the upper level. When you’ve finished exploring the museum, you can rest and enjoy tea and cake in the stylish Café Campana (see p17) or, if it’s dinner time, walk over to L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon (see p133), having booked in advance, to splurge on the Michelin-starred chef’s take on modern French cuisine. See map on pp124–5

128 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Booksellers Jeune 5 Gibert MAP F5 5 Pl St-Michel, •

27 Quai St-Michel, 75006 A couple of bookshops that sell everything from travel guides and French literature to cookery books and children’s stories.

6 Album MAP L4 8 Rue Dante, 75005 •

One of several shops on this street selling a wide range of specialist comic books (big business in France) from Tintin to erotica, as well as related merchandise.

Shakespeare and Company

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Présence 7 Librairie Africaine

Shakespeare and Company

MAP N5 • 37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Bibliophiles spend hours in the rooms and narrow passageways of Paris’s renowned English-language bookshop. There are regular author events and readings in English and French. The café next door serves great coffee and cakes.

2 Bouquinistes MAP N5

The green stalls of the second-hand booksellers (bouquinistes) on the quays of the Left Bank are a landmark. Pore over old postcards, books, posters, comics and sheet music.

MAP P6 • 25 bis, Rue des Ecoles, 75005 • Closed Aug A specialist on books about Africa, as the name suggests. It’s an excellent information point, too, if you want to find out where to eat African food or hear African music.

Francisco Book Co. 8 San MAP M5 17 Rue Monsieur •

le Prince, 75006 This hodge-podge of all genres carries exclusive used English books as well as collectibles and a carefully chosen selection of new titles and classics. If you have books to sell, there is usually a buyer on duty.

The Red Wheelbarrow d’Orsay Bookshop 9 MAP N5 9 Rue de Médicis, 3 Musée 75006 As well as its wonderful •

collections, the museum (see pp16– 19) has a remarkably large and comprehensive art bookshop.

French and English language books here range from contemporary literature to gastronomy.

La Hune 4 YellowKorner MAP L4 16 Rue de •

l’Abbaye, 75006 Part gallery, part bookstore, this reincarnation of the St-Germaindes-Prés institution focuses on photography.

Abbey Bookshop

Bookshop 0 Abbey MAP N5 29 Rue de •

la Parcheminerie, 75005 This quirky, Canadianowned shop in the Latin Quarter stocks books in French and English and serves coffee with maple syrup.

St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters ❮❮ 129

Specialist Food Shops Roger Ryst Dupeyron 1 Patrick MAP F5 108 Blvd St-Germain, 7 MAP N5 79 Rue du Bac, •

75006 One of the new generation of chocolatiers, Patrick Roger already has legions of fans thanks to his lifelike sculptures and ganachefilled chocolates.

Henri Le Roux

2 MAP L4

• 1 Rue de Bourbon le Château, 75006 • Closed Aug The award-winning chocolatier offers his trademark salted butter caramels and other delicacies such as cacao marshmallows.

Jean-Paul Hévin

3 MAP E6

3 Rue Vavin, 75006 • Closed Sun, Mon, Aug Another distinguished chocolatier with elegant, minimalist presentation and superb flavour combinations. •

Poilâne

4 MAP E5

8 Rue du ChercheMidi, 75006 • Closed Sun Founded in the 1930s, this tiny, delicious-smelling bakery produces rustic, naturally leavened loaves in a wood-fired oven. •

•

75007 • Closed Sun, Mon (am) The atmospheric Ryst Dupeyron wine shop specializes in fine Bordeaux, rare spirits and vintage Champagne.

Aoki 8 Sadaharu MAP E5 35 Rue de Vaugirard, •

75006 • Closed Mon Aoki cleverly incorporates Japanese flavours such as yuzu, green tea and black sesame into intoxicating classic French pastries that taste as good as they look.

9 Barthélémy MAP J4 51 Rue de Grenelle, •

75007 • Closed Sun & Mon Gorgeous farmhouse cheeses are piled high in this charming neighbourhood fromagerie.

& Gallais 0 Debauve MAP K4 30 Rue des Sts-Pères, •

75007 • Closed Sun This exquisite shop dates from 1800, when chocolate was sold for medicinal purposes.

Dernière 5 La Goutte MAP E5 • 6 Rue de Bourbon le Château, 75006 The English-speaking owners of this wine shop, which specializes in bottles from small producers, also run the nearby wine bar Fish La Boissonnerie.

Hermé 6 Pierre MAP L5 72 Rue •

Bonaparte, 75006 This boutique sells some of the city’s very finest cakes and pastries, including innovative flavoured macarons. Historic interior of Debauve & Gallais chocolatier See map on pp124–5

130 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Late-Night Bars de la Mairie 1 Café MAP K5 8 Pl St-Sulpice, •

75006 This is an old-fashioned Parisian café (see p69), which offers great views of St-Sulpice church from its busy pavement terrace. It is open until 2am daily except Sunday.

Cocktail 2 Prescription Club MAP L4 • 23 Rue Mazarine, 75006 The expertly mixed drinks are the main attraction at this chic and hip cocktail bar.

Comptoir des 3 Le Canettes – Chez Georges MAP E5 11 Rue des Canettes, 75006 Night owls flock to this old-school bar, which has been serving cheap beer and wine since 1952. The vaulted basement holds parties till 2am. •

Club 4 Castor MAP M4 14 Rue Hautefeuille, •

75006 • Closed Sun, Mon Clandestine cocktail bar with a great menu and a downstairs section.

10 Bar 5 Le MAP L5 10 Rue de l’Odéon, •

75006 • Closed Sun This atmospheric sangria bar, with an old jukebox, has been a neighbourhood institution since 1955. Happy hour is 6–8pm.

The Bombardier pub

Bombardier 6 The MAP F5 2 Pl du •

Panthéon, 75005 Sip drinks until late at this franglais pub, which offers great views of the Panthéon.

des Vins 7 Compagnie Surnaturels MAP E5 7 Rue Lobineau, 75006 This cosy, candlelit bar has a superb wine list that features several thousand wines. Enjoy a glass with a selection of delicious small plates. •

Piano Vache 8 Le MAP N6 8 Rue Laplace, •

75005 Popular with a young crowd, this relaxed, trendy bar, with walls covered in posters, has themed nights dedicated to jazz, rock, punk and pop.

Bar du Marché 9 Le MAP E5 75 Rue de •

Seine, 75006 This corner bar, with a popular terrace, appeals to locals and tourists alike, mostly due to its reasonably priced drinks and jovial waiters.

0 O’Neil MAP E5

Interior of Le 10 Bar

• 20 Rue des Canettes, 75006 Artisanal beers, from light, bubbly blondes to thick brown ales, are made on the premises of this pub. Don’t forget to tuck in to sweet and savoury flammekuechen (Alsacien cream-topped pizza), served until midnight.

St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters ❮❮ 131

Literary Haunts Palette 1 La MAP L4 43 Rue de Seine, •

75006 • Open 7am–2am daily This café has been patronized by the likes of Henry Miller, Apollinaire and Jacques Prévert.

Deux Magots 2 Les MAP K4 6 Pl St-Germain•

des-Prés, 75006 • 01 45 48 55 25 • Open 7:30am–1am daily This was home to the literary and artistic élite of Paris, such as Albert Camus and Picasso (see p68).

de Flore 3 Café MAP K4 172 Blvd St-Germain, •

75006 • 01 45 48 55 26 • Open 7:30am–1:30am daily Guillaume Apollinaire founded his literary magazine, Les Soirées de Paris, here (see p68) in 1913.

Procope 4 Le MAP L4 13 Rue de l’ Ancienne •

Comédie, 75006 • Open 12pm– midnight daily (to 1am Thu–Sat) The oldest café in Paris, this was a meeting place for writers such as Voltaire, Balzac and Zola.

Le Select

5 MAP E6

99 Blvd du Montparnasse, 75006 • Open 7am–2am daily (to 3am Fri & Sat) F. Scott Fitzgerald and Truman Capote are among many American writers who have drunk in this café. •

Hotel Pont Royal

6 MAP J3

5–7 Rue de Montalembert, 75007 • Open 11am– midnight daily Henry Miller drank at the bar here at the time of writing his Tropic of Capricorn and Tropic of Cancer.

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Shakespeare and Company

This renowned bookshop (see p128) was once described by novelist Henry Miller as a “wonderland of books”.

Beautiful Brasserie Lipp

8 Brasserie Lipp

MAP L4 • 151 Blvd St-Germain, 75006 • Open 9am–12:45am daily Ernest Hemingway pays homage to this café in A Moveable Feast, and André Gide was also a customer. It sponsors an annual literary prize.

Coupole 9 La MAP E6 102 Blvd du •

Montparnasse, 75014 • Open 8:30am– midnight (to 11pm Sun & Mon) This former coal depot became a lavish Art Deco brasserie frequented by Françoise Sagan.

Petit St-Benoît 0 Le MAP K3 4 Rue St-Benoît, •

75006 • Open noon–2:30pm & 6:30– 10:30pm Mon–Sat Albert Camus, Simone de Beauvoir and James Joyce once took their daily coffee here. See map on pp124–5

132 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Picnic Providers Germain Raspail 1 Saint 6 Marché Market MAP J4 Blvd Raspail, 75006 •

MAP L5 • 4-6 Rue Lobineau, 75006 • Closed Mon Find cheeses, charcuterie, foie gras and fresh produce all under one roof in this 19th-century covered market.

Judy Market

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18 Rue de Fleurus,

75006 Cold-pressed juices and colourful salads are among the healthy takeaway options at this smart canteen.

Maubert Market

3 MAP N5

Superb but pricey produce can be found at this food market held in the morning on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday (when it is all organic).

Rôtisserie d’Argent 7 La MAP P5 19 Quai de la •

Tournelle, 75005 Place an advance takeaway order of spit-roasted heritage chicken and other luxe picnic options at this bistro.

Grande Epicerie 8 La de Paris

Pl Maubert, 75006 This small market specializes in organic produce every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday morning. A good place to pick up olives, cheese, tomatoes and fruit.

MAP D5 • Le Bon Marché, 38 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Hunt for treasures such as Breton seaweed butter and coucou de Rennes at the food hall in Le Bon Marché (see p71).

Mulot 4 Maison MAP L4 76 Rue de Seine,

Pirée 9 Le MAP N5 47 Blvd St-Germain,

75006 • Closed Mon Tarts, sandwiches and good breads from this up-market patisserie and deli make for a chic picnic.

75005 Delicious, freshly prepared Greek and Armenian specialities, such as stuffed vegetables and honey-soaked cakes, are sold here.

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5 Naturalia MAP N6 36 Rue Monge, •

75005 • Closed Sun pm For a fully organic picnic, look no further than this grocery store: breads, wines, cheeses, hams, fruits, desserts and much more. Interior of Kayser

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0 Kayser MAP P6 8 Rue Monge, 75005 •

Closed Mon If you don’t want to make up your own picnic then try a ready-made sandwich from this bakery. Mouthwatering combinations include goat’s cheese with pear. •

St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters ❮❮ 133

Places to Eat PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges

chef Tsuyoshi Yamakawa creates new interpretations of French classics. His small plates let natural flavours shine.

€ under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50

1 Dupin MAP J5

• 11 Rue Dupin, 75006 01 42 22 64 56 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€€ Dishes such as scallops and wild mushrooms or confit aubergine are sublime – reserve a table in advance. •

2 Baieta MAP P5

• 5 Rue de Pontoise, 75005 • 01 42 02 59 19 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€€ Michelin-starred Niçoise chef Julia Sedefdjian cooks with verve at her friendly bistro. Try the bouillabaisse.

La Tour d’Argent

Green 3 Clover MAP E4 5 Rue Perronnet,

Tour d’Argent 7 La MAP P5 15 Quai de la

75007 • 01 75 50 00 05 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€ Jean-François Piège’s inventive modern cuisine focuses on vegetables and is served in this minimalist cosy bistro with an open kitchen.

Tournelle, 75005 • 01 43 54 23 31 • Closed Sun, Mon, Aug • €€€ This historic restaurant with fine views of Notre-Dame serves duckling as its speciality.

•

Le Comptoir du Relais

4 MAP L5

• 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006 • 01 44 27 07 97 • €€ Yves Camdeborde’s much-praised restaurant serves excellent bistro lunches and prix-fixe dinners.

•

de Joël 8 L’Atelier Robuchon MAP E4 • 5 Rue de Montalembert, 75007 • 01 42 22 56 56 • €€€ Sample mouthwatering French gastronomic cuisine by Joël Robuchon at this atelier (see p67).

Papilles 5 Lapérouse 9 Les MAP M4 51 Quai des Grands MAP F6 30 Rue Gay Lussac, •

•

Augustins, 75006 • 01 43 26 68 04 • Closed Sat L, Sun, Mon L, Aug • €€€ Classic French cuisine is served in a setting that has remained unchanged since 1766.

75005 • 01 43 25 20 79 • Closed Sun, Mon, Aug, 25 Dec–1 Jan • €€ Choose your wine straight off the shelves to accompany the greatvalue Market or Bistro menus.

Crèmerie 6 La MAP L5 9 Rue des Quatre

Moulin à Vent 0 Au MAP P6 20 Rue des Fossés

Vents, 75006 • 01 43 54 99 30 • Closed Mon L, Sun • €€ Beyond the charming façade of this intimate wine bar and informal bistro,

St-Bernard, 75005 • 01 43 54 99 37 • Closed Sat L, Sun, Mon L, Aug • €€€ One of the best bistros in Paris. Try the frogs’ legs sauteed in garlic.

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See map on pp124–5

134 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Jardin des Plantes Quarter This is traditionally one of the most peaceful areas of Paris. The medicinal herb gardens that give the quarter its name were established here in 1626. Near the gardens is the Arènes de Lutèce, a well-preserved Roman amphitheatre. Rue Mouffetard, a lively cobbled street winding down the hill from the bustling place de la Contrescarpe, dates from medieval times. The area is also home to a sizable Muslim community, focused on the Paris Mosque and the Institut du Monde Arabe cultural centre. JARDIN DES PLANTES QUARTER E O IS

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Jardin des Plantes Quarter ❮❮ 135 du Monde Arabe 3 Institut MAP G5 1 Rue des Fossés •

St-Bernard, Pl Mohammed V, 75005 • 01 40 51 38 38 • Open 10am–6pm Tue, Wed & Fri (to 7pm Thu, Sat & Sun) • Adm • www.imarabe.org This institute was founded in 1980 to promote cultural relations between France and the Arab world. The stunning building (1987) designed by architect Jean Nouvel (see p120) features a southern wall of 240 ornate photo-sensitive metal screens that open and close like camera apertures to regulate light entering the building. The design is based on the traditional latticed wooden screens of Islamic architecture. Inside is a museum featuring Islamic artworks, from 9th-century ceramics to contemporary art, as well as a tea salon and restaurant. Flowers in the Jardin des Plantes

National 4 Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle des Plantes 1 Jardin MAP G6 57 Rue Cuvier, 75005 MAP G6 Jardin des Plantes, •

01 40 79 56 01 • Open 8am–8pm daily (to 5:30pm in winter) The 17th-century royal medicinal herb garden (see p138) was planted by two physicians to Louis XIII. Opened in 1640, it flourished under the curatorship of Comte de Buffon. It contains some 6,500 species, and 10,000 plants. There’s a Cedar of Lebanon, planted in 1734, a hillside maze, and Alpine gardens. •

•

75005 • Open 10am–6pm Wed– Mon (advance booking required) • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm • www.mnhn.fr The Jardin des Plantes houses varied natural history exhibits. The Grande Galerie de l’Evolution (see p60) has stuffed African mammals, a massive whale skeleton and an endangered species exhibit (see p50).

2 Ménagerie MAP G6 Jardin des Plantes, •

75005 • Open summer: 9am–6pm (to 6:30pm Sun & hols); winter: 9am– 5pm (to 5:30pm Sun & hols) • Adm • www.zoodujardindesplantes.fr The country’s oldest public zoo (see p60) was founded during the Revolution to house the surviving animals from the royal menagerie at Versailles. Other animals were donated from circuses around the world. However, during the Siege of Paris in 1870–71 (see p43), most of the unfortunate creatures were eaten by hungry citizens. A favourite with children, the zoo has since been restocked.

Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle

136 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area Mosquée 5 Grande de Paris MAP G6 • 2 bis Pl du Puits de l’Ermite, 75005 • Open 9am–6pm Sat–Thu; call 01 45 35 78 17 to book a guided tour • Closed Islamic hols • Adm Built in 1922–6, this mosque is the spiritual centre for Parisian Muslims (see p49). The Hispano-Moorish decoration, especially the grand patio, was inspired by the Alhambra in Spain. The minaret soars nearly 33 m (100 ft). The complex has an Islamic school, tearoom and a hammam reminiscent of North Africa.

its 17th-century mansard roofs, old-fashioned painted shop signs and affordable restaurants. In the market you can buy everything from Auvergne sausage to horsemeat and perfectly ripened cheeses.

de Lutèce 7 Arènes MAP G6 49 Rue Monge, •

75005 • Open summer: 9am–8:30pm daily; winter: 8am–6pm daily The remains of the 2nd-century Roman amphitheatre from the settlement of Lutetia (see p42) lay buried for centuries and were only discovered in 1869 during construction of Rue Monge. The novelist Victor Hugo, concerned with the preservation of his city’s historic buildings, including NotreDame (see p23), led the campaign for its restoration. The original arena would have had 35 tiers and could seat 15,000 spectators for theatrical performances and gladiator fights.

de la 8 Place Contrescarpe

Tearoom, Grande Mosquée de Paris

Mouffetard 6 Rue MAP F6

Although Rue Mouffetard is most famous today for its lively street market held every Tuesday to Sunday (see p71), it has an equally colourful past. In Roman times this was the main road from Paris to Rome. Some say its name comes from the French word mouffette (skunk), as a reference to the odorous River Bièvre (now covered over) where waste was dumped by tanners and weavers from the nearby Gobelins tapestry factory. Though no longer poor nor bohemian, the neighbourhood still has lots of character, with

MAP F5 This bustling square has a village community feel, with busy cafés and restaurants and groups of students from the nearby Lycée Henri-IV hanging out here after dark. In medieval times, it lay outside the city walls, a remnant of which still stands on Rue Clovis. Notice the memorial plaque above the butcher’s at No. 1, which marks the site of the old Pine Cone Club, a café where François Rabelais and other writers gathered in the 16th century. FRENCH NORTH AFRICA France has long had close connections with North Africa, though not always harmonious. Its annexation of Algeria in 1834 led to the long and bloody Algerian War of Liberation (1954–62). Relations with Tunisia, which it governed from 1883 to 1956, and Morocco, also granted independence in 1956, were better. Many North Africans now live in Paris.

❮❮ 137 A DAY IN THE GARDENS Institut du Monde Arabe Le Buisson Ardent

Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle Jardin des Plantes

Arènes de Lutèce Place de la Contrescarpe Grande Mosquée de Paris Rue Mouffetard

Façade of St-Médard church

9 St-Médard MAP G6 141 Rue Mouffetard, •

75005 • Open 5–7:30 pm Mon; 8am– 12:30pm & 2:30–7:30pm Tue–Sat; 9am–12:30pm & 4–8:15pm Sun The church at the bottom of Rue Mouffetard dates back to the 9th century, when it was a parish church dedicated to St Médard, counsellor to the Merovingian kings. The present church, completed in 1655, is a mixture of Flamboyant Gothic and Renaissance styles. Among the fine paintings inside is the 17th-century St Joseph Walking with the Christ Child by Francisco de Zurbarán. The churchyard became notorious as it was the scene of hysterical fits in the 18th century, when a cult of convulsionnaires sought miracle cures at the grave of a Jansenist deacon.

Manufacture 0 La des Gobelins 42 Ave des Gobelins, 75013 • Open 1am–6pm Tue–Sun for temporary exhibitions; book a guided tour at www.cultival.fr This world-renowned tapestry factory was originally a dyeing workshop, founded by the Gobelin brothers in the mid-15th century. In 1662, Louis XIV’s minister Colbert set up a royal factory here and gathered the greatest craftsmen of the day to make furnishings for the palace at Versailles (see p155). Visitors can observe the traditional weaving process on a guided tour, which usually takes place on Wednesday afternoons.

Grande Galerie de l'Evolution

St-Médard

Café-Restaurant de la Mosquée

MORNING

Start the day by browsing the stalls at the fabulous market on Rue Mouffetard, which gets going by about 8am. Working upwards from the bottom of the street and the church of St-Médard, you’ll find plenty here to make up a delicious breakfast, whether from the many market stalls or from the grocers and cafés that dot the street. Don’t forget to take your eyes off the tempting produce every now and then to see the splendid old buildings on this medieval street. Follow Rue Mouffetard up to the café-lined Place de la Contrescarpe, then head to the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle (see p135) and the excellent Grande Galerie de l’Evolution (see p60). Stroll through the Jardin des Plantes (see p135) and take a break on one of the many benches to admire the plantings. Exit through the gate on Rue Cuvier, near Rue Linné, and make a detour to the Arènes de Lutèce on your way to Le Buisson Ardent (see p139) for a simple, authentic bistro lunch. AFTERNOON

Spend part of the afternoon at the Institut du Monde Arabe (see p135), exploring its beautiful Islamic artworks, before walking down to admire the Moorish architecture of the Grande Mosquée de Paris. Finish the day with a mint tea and a selection of maamoul and baklava at the Café-Restaurant de la Mosquée (39 Rue Geoffroy St-Hilaire; 01 43 31 14 32; open noon–midnight daily). See map on p134

138 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Jardin des Plantes Sights Tree Manège 1 Dinosaur 7 Dodo One of the trees in the The strange and exotic animals Botanical Gardens is a Ginkgo biloba, which was planted in 1795, but the species is known to have existed in exactly the same form in the days of the dinosaurs, 125 million years ago.

2

Cedar of Lebanon

This magnificent tree was planted in 1734, and came from London’s Botanic Gardens in Kew, although a story grew up that its seed was brought here all the way from Syria in the hat Cedar of Lebanon of a scientist.

Garden 3 Rose Having only been planted

in 1990 and so relatively modern compared to the other gardens, the beautiful roseraie has some 170 species of roses and 180 rose bushes on display. Spectacular when in full bloom in spring and summer.

Gardens 4 Rock One of the stars of the Botan­ ical Gardens, with more than 3,000 plants from the world’s diverse Alpine regions. There are samples from Corsica to the Caucasus, Morocco and the Himalayas.

on this magical merry­go­round (see p61) include a dodo, a triceratops, a horned turtle and even a sivatherium, which was like a giraffe with antlers.

Crocodile 8 Nile The crocodile in the Reptile

House now has a better home than he once did. It was found in 1998, when he was six months old, in the bathtub of a Paris hotel room, left behind as an unwanted pet.

Animal House 9 Young One of the zoo’s most popular

features for children is this house where young creatures, which for one reason or another cannot be looked after by their natural parents, are raised. Once they have reached adulthood they are returned to their natural habitat.

0 Greenhouses Otherwise known as Les

Grandes Serres, these 19th­century greenhouses were at one time the largest in the world. Today, they house a rainforest environment, a prickly Mexican cactus garden and a tropical winter garden which is kept at a constant 22°C (74°F) and 80 per cent humidity.

Japonica 5 Sophora Sent to Paris under the label

“unknown Chinese tree” by a Jesuit naturalist living in China, this tree, often called a Pagoda Tree, was planted in 1747, first flowered in 1777, and still flowers today.

Garden 6 Iris An unusual feature is this

designated garden which brings together more than 400 different varieties of iris.

Nineteenth-century greenhouse

Jardin des Plantes Quarter ❮❮ 139

Places to Eat PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50

Truffière 1 La MAP F6 4 Rue Blainville, •

75005 • 01 46 33 29 82 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€€ A 17th-century building, a wood fire and welcoming staff all make for a great little Michelin-approved bistro. Naturally, the menu features truffles.

Bel Ordinaire 5 Le MAP F6 5 Rue des Bazeilles, •

75005 • 09 81 11 72 78 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€ This new-generation bistro with an open kitchen and a large terrace prioritizes seasonal produce and natural wines.

6 L’Agrume MAP G6 15 Rue des Fossés •

St-Marcel, 75005 • 01 43 31 86 48 • Closed Sun & Mon, Tue D • €€€ Seafood fresh from Brittany features on the menu at this popular bistro. There are good-value set lunches too.

– Dealer de Café 7 DOSE MAP F6 73 Rue Mouffetard, •

75005 • 01 43 36 65 03 • Closed Mon • € Some of the best espressos and cappuccinos in Paris are served at this coffee shop. It also offers delicious healthy salads and toasties. La Truffière’s vaulted interior

Léna et Mimile 2 Chez MAP F6 32 Rue Tournefort, •

75005 • 01 47 07 72 47 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€ Those in the know avoid the touristy restaurants around Rue Mouffetard to savour a meal at this ambitious bistro with a peaceful terrace.

Petit Marguery 3 Au MAP F6 9 Blvd de Port-Royal, •

75013 • 01 43 31 58 59 • €€ One for meat lovers, with plenty of steak, veal and game on the menu. Boisterous atmosphere.

Buisson Ardent 4 Le MAP G6 25 Rue Jussieu, •

75005 • 01 43 54 93 02 • Closed Sun D (brunch only Sun) • €€ This creative bistro is a romantic night-time destination serving classic French dishes with a twist. Set menus offer good value.

Coco de Mer 8 Au MAP G6 34 Blvd St-Marcel, •

75005 • 06 20 26 77 67 • Closed Sun, Mon L, Aug • €€ This restaurant serves spicy Seychelles cuisine and has a “beach hut” terrace with soft sand. Vegetarians should book ahead.

Ter(re) 9 Kitchen MAP G5 26 Blvd St-Germain, •

75005 • 01 42 39 47 48 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€ Italian and Asian flavours mix at chef William Ledeuil’s zesty restaurant, which specializes in homemade pasta. Good cocktails too.

0 Flocon MAP F6 75 Rue Mouffetard, •

75005 • 01 47 07 19 29 • Closed Mon, Tue • €€ Locals applauded the opening of this well-priced bistro, where the imaginative cooking might include dishes such as artichoke carpaccio and buttery skate. See map on p134

140 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Chaillot Quarter Chaillot was a separate village until the 19th century, when it was swallowed up by the growing city and bestowed with wide avenues and grand mansions, many of which now house embassies. The quarter’s centrepiece is the glorious Palais de Chaillot, its white-stone wings embracing the Trocadéro Gardens and its terrace facing the Eiffel Tower, across the Seine. Behind the palace is Place du Trocadéro, laid out in Fish sculpture, Aquarium de Paris 1858 and ringed with smart cafés. CHAILLOT QUARTER

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Chaillot Quarter ❮❮ 141 a former quarry, the site has been designed to blend in with the Chaillot hillside. There is also a futuristic cinema complex showing nature films, and a modern French restaurant.

de Passy 3 Cimetière MAP A4 Pl du Trocadéro •

(entrance Rue du Commandant Schloesing), 75016 This small cemetery established in 1820 covers only 1 ha (2.5 acres), yet many famous people (see p144) have been laid to rest here with the Eiffel Tower as their eternal view. It is worth a visit just to admire the striking sculptures on the tombs. View from Palais de Chaillot

Palais de Chaillot

1 MAP B4

17 Pl du Trocadéro, 75016 The fall of his empire scuppered Napoleon’s plans for a palace for his son on Chaillot hill, but the site was later used for the Trocadéro palace, built for the Universal Exhibition of 1878. It was replaced by the present Neo-Classical building with its colonnaded wings for the prewar exhibition of 1937. The two pavilions house three museums, including the Musée de l’Homme. The broad terrace is the domain of souvenir sellers and skateboarders by day, while at night tourists come to admire the splendid view of the Eiffel Tower across the Seine. Two bronzes, Apollo by Henri Bouchard and Hercules by Pommier, stand at the front of the terrace. Beneath the terrace is the 1,200seat Théâtre National de Chaillot. •

de l’Architecture 4 Cité et du Patrimoine MAP B4 • Palais de Chaillot, 75116 01 58 51 52 00 • Open 11am–7pm Wed–Mon (to 9pm Thu) • Closed Tue • Adm (advance booking required) • www.citedelarchitecture.fr Occupying the east wing of the Palais de Chaillot, this museum is an ode to French architectural heritage, showcasing its development through the ages as well as contemporary architecture. The Galerie des Moulages (Medieval to Renaissance) contains moulded portions of churches and French cathedrals including Chartres. The Galerie d’Architecture Moderne et Contemporaine includes a reconstruction of an apartment designed by Le Corbusier, and architectural designs from 1990 onwards. The gallery in the Pavillon de Tête has a collection of murals copied from medieval frescoes. •

de Paris 2 Aquarium MAP B4 5 Ave Albert de Mun, •

75016 • Open 10am–7pm daily (to 10pm Sat) • Closed 14 Jul • Adm (advance booking required) • www. aquariumdeparis.com Originally constructed in 1878 for the Universal Exhibition, this aquarium is home to over 10,000 species, including seahorses, stonefish and some sharks and rays. Built into

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

142 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area GENERAL FOCH General Ferdinand Foch (1851–1929), whose statue stands in the centre of Place du Trocadéro, was commanderin-chief of the Allied armies by the end of World War I. His masterful command ultimately led to victory over Germany in 1918, whereupon he was made a Marshal of France and elected to the French Academy. He is interred at the Hôtel des Invalides (see pp38–9).

d’Art Moderne 5 Musée de la Ville de Paris MAP B4 • 11 Ave du Président Wilson, 75116 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 10pm Thu during temporary exhibitions) • Closed public hols • Adm for temporary exhibitions • www.mam.paris.fr This museum is housed in the east wing of the Palais de Tokyo (see p53), built for the 1937 World’s Fair. Its permanent collection consists of 10,000 works and includes such masters as Chagall, Picasso, Modigliani and Léger; further highlights include Raoul Dufy’s enormous mural The Spirit of Electricity (1937) and Picabia’s Lovers (After the Rain) (1925). The museum also showcases the work of up-and-coming artists in the west wing.

de Balzac 7 Maison MAP A4 47 Rue Raynouard, •

75016 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Closed public hols • Adm for temporary exhibitions • www. maisondebalzac.paris.fr The writer Honoré de Balzac (see p48) rented an apartment here from 1840 to 1847, assuming a false name to avoid his many creditors. He worked on several of his famous novels here, including La cousine Bette and La comédie humaine. The house is now a museum displaying first editions and manuscripts, personal mementoes and letters, and paintings and drawings of his friends and family. It also houses temporary exhibitions.

du Trocadéro 8 Jardins MAP B4

Designed in 1937, the tiered Trocadéro Gardens descend gently down Chaillot hill from the palace to the Seine and the Pont d’Iéna. The centrepiece of this 10-ha (25-acre) park is the long rectangular pool lined with stone and bronze statues, including Woman by Daniel Bacqué (1874–1947). Its illuminated fountains

de l’Homme 6 Musée MAP B4 17 Pl du Trocadéro, •

75016 • Open 11am–7pm Wed–Mon • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 14 Jul, 25 Dec • Adm • www.museedelhomme.fr This anthropological and ethnographic museum, opened in 1938, uses scientific and cultural approaches to explore the questions surrounding the human race. It is home to one of the world’s most comprehensive prehistoric collections. Reopened in 2015 after 5 years of renovations, it traces the history of mankind and addresses the questions, who are we, where do we come from, what is our future? Fossils, skulls, anthropological casts and other displays help visitors understand their biological evolution as well as the development of societies and cultures over the centuries.

Aerial view, Jardins du Trocadéro

Chaillot Quarter ❮❮ 143 (see p57) are spectacular at night. With flowering trees, walkways and bridges over small streams, the gardens are a romantic place for a stroll.

A DAY IN CHAILLOT Café Carette

Etude

Café du Trocadéro Cimetière de Passy

Musée National des Arts Asiatiques– Guimet Cité de l’Architecture

Palais de Chaillot Jardins du Trocadéro

Musée de l'Homme Eiffel Tower, Le Jules Verne

MORNING

Exhibits in the Musée du Vin

du Vin 9 Musée MAP A4 5 Square Charles •

Dickens, Rue des Eaux, 75016 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat • Adm • www. museeduvinparis.com The vaulted 14th-century cellars where the monks of Passy once made wine are an atmospheric setting for this wine museum. Waxwork figures recreate the history of the wine-making process, and there are displays of wine paraphernalia. The museum also has tasting sessions, wine for sale and an excellent restaurant.

National des 0 Musée Arts Asiatiques–Guimet MAP B3 • 6 Pl d’Iéna, 75116 • Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon (to 9pm Thu in summer) • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Adm • www.guimet.fr Founded in 1889, Musée National des Arts Asiatiques–Guimet is one of the world’s foremost museums of Asian art, and the largest European museum devoted to the subject. The Khmer Buddhist temple sculptures from Angkor Wat are the highlight of a fine collection of Cambodian art. Emile Guimet’s collection tracing Chinese and Japanese religion from the 4th to 19th centuries is also on display, as are rare artifacts from Afghanistan, India, Indonesia and Vietnam.

It would be hard to imagine a better start to a day in Paris than going to the Palais de Chaillot (see p141) and taking in its perfect view of the Eiffel Tower (see pp24–5) across the Seine. Afterwards, explore the treelined paths of the Jardins du Trocadéro, or tour the fascinating collections of the Cité de l’Architecture (see pp142) or the Musée de l’Homme (see p141). Have lunch at the Café du Trocadéro (8 Pl du Trocadéro; 01 44 05 37 00; open 7am–2am daily) and watch the comings and goings in the square. Or, for something a little fancier – and having made a reservation well in advance – walk up to the excellent Etude (see p145). AFTERNOON

In good weather, take a stroll through the Cimetière de Passy (see p141), where the extravagant tombstones and statuary speak to the good fortunes of the members of the 19th-century upper class buried here (see p144). Or, if it is wet out, pop into the Musée National des Arts Asiatiques– Guimet for its remarkable Eastern artifacts and artworks – don’t miss the stunning Riboud collection of rare textiles from India, Japan, China and Indonesia. Take tea, with éclairs, at Café Carette, back at the Place du Trocadéro (01 47 27 98 85; open 7am–11:30pm daily), or have an unforgettable dinner at the stylish Le Jules Verne (see p123). Be sure to book a table in advance.

See map on p140

144 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Graves in Cimetière de Passy Manet Emmanuel 1 Edouard 7 Comte de Las Cases Born in Paris in 1832, Manet became the most notorious artist in the city when works such as Olympia and Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe (see p16) were first exhibited. He died in Paris in 1883.

Claude Debussy

2 The French composer

Born in 1766, this historian and friend of Napoleon shared the emperor’s exile on the island of St Helena and recorded his memoirs. Las Cases himself died in Paris in 1842.

Edouard Manet

(1862–1918) achieved fame through works such as Prélude à l’Après-midi d’un Faune and La Mer, and was regarded as the musical equivalent of the Impressionist painters.

Morisot 3 Berthe The French Impressionist

artist was born in Paris in 1841, posed for Edouard Manet and later married his lawyer brother Eugène. One of the mainstays of the Impressionist movement, Morisot died in Paris in 1895.

4 Fernandel The lugubrious French film

actor known as Fernandel was born Fernand Contandin in Marseille in 1903. He made more than 100 films in a career that lasted from 1930 until his death in Paris in 1971.

Fauré 8 Gabriel The French composer,

probably best known today for his Requiem, was a great influence on the music of his time. He died in Paris in 1924, at the age of 79.

Mirbeau 9 Octave The satirical French novelist

and playwright was also an art critic and a journalist. Born in 1848, he died in Cheverchemont in 1917 and his body was brought to Passy for burial.

Farman 0 Henri The French aviator was born

in Paris in 1874 and died here in 1958. He was the first man to make a circular 1-km (0.5-mile) flight, and the first to fly cross-country in Europe. His gravestone shows him at the controls of a primitive plane.

Bashkirtseff 5 Marie This Russian artist became

more renowned as a diarist after her death from tuberculosis in 1884. Despite living for only 24 years she produced 84 volumes of diaries and their posthumous publication created a sensation due to their intimate nature.

Jay 6 Marie-Louise A former Bon Marché

shopgirl, Jay founded the historic Parisian department store La Samaritaine with her husband, Ernest Cognacq. The couple’s fine art collection forms the heart of the Musée Cognacq-Jay (see p93).

Grave of Henri Farman

Chaillot Quarter ❮❮ 145

Places to Eat PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50

Geaam 1 Alan MAP B2 19 Rue Lauriston, •

75016 • 01 45 01 72 97 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€€ In this refined restaurant, Michelinstarred chef Alan Geaam combines classic French cuisine with bright Lebanese flavours to create dishes such as langoustine cooked with soujouk spices.

Stella 2 Le MAP A3 133 Ave Victor •

Hugo, 75116 • 01 56 90 56 00 €€€ This jovial neighbourhood institution, with an almost retro charm, is a traditional Parisian brasserie in style and atmosphere. Le Stella serves fantastic seafood platters. •

l’Ecureuil 3 Mokus MAP B3 116 Ave Kléber, •

75016 • 01 42 56 23 56 • €€ This trendy pizzeria and burger bar is set in an industrial-inspired dining room, complete with neon lights and brick walls. It is a great place for comfort food. The menu also features several options for vegetarians.

Paul 6 Bistrot Chêne MAP B3 • 123 Rue Lauriston, 75116 • 01 43 59 45 47 • Closed Sun, Mon D • €€ Located near Trocadéro, this typically Parisian bistro offers quality food impeccably served.

Petit Rétro 7 Le MAP B3 5 Rue Mesnil, 75016 •

01 44 05 06 05 • Closed Sun • €€ There’s a cosy atmosphere and affordable prices at this 1900s bistro. The blanquette de veau is delicious. •

Bistrot des 8 Le Vignes MAP B4 • 1 Rue Jean Bologne, 75016 01 45 27 76 64 • €€ An unpretentious little bistro of the type everyone hopes to find in Paris. •

9 Etude MAP B3

• 14 Rue du Bouquet de Longchamp, 75116 • 01 45 05 11 41 • Closed Sat L, Sun, Mon • €€€ Chef Keisuke Yamagishi has been awarded a Michelin star for his perfectly balanced Franco-Japanese tasting menus. The restaurant prepares vegan menus as well, with advance notice.

4 Astrance MAP B4 4 Rue Beethoven, •

75116 • 01 40 50 84 40 • Closed Sat–Mon • €€€ Pascal Barbot serves fusion food at its best. Book at least a month in advance to secure a table.

5 Prunier MAP B3 16 Ave Victor Hugo, •

75016 • 01 44 17 35 85 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€€ Fish dishes reign at this restaurant, with its dazzling Art Deco interior.

Monsieur Bleu terrace

Bleu 0 Monsieur MAP B4 20 Ave de New York, •

75116 • 01 47 20 90 47 • €€ A glamorous modern brasserie within the Palais de Tokyo, near the Musée d’Art Moderne (see p142). Nibbles from the bar menu are perfect for enjoying on the terrace facing the Eiffel Tower. See map on p140

146 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Montmartre and Pigalle In the 19th and early 20th centuries, painters and poets put the “art” in Montmartre, and it will forever be associated with their bohemian lifestyle. Throngs of tourists climb the hill for the view from Sacré-Coeur, but you can still discover villagelike charms in the winding back streets. Pigalle, once home to dance halls and cabarets, is now better known for its adult shows and sex shops. Church of St-Pierre de Montmartre

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Montmartre and Pigalle ❮❮ 147

1 Sacré-Coeur See pp26–7. Paris 2 Dalí MAP F1 11 Rue Poulbot, •

75018 • Open 10am–6:30pm daily • Adm • www.daliparis.com The Dalí works here may not be the artist’s most famous, but this museum is still a must for any fan of the Spanish Surrealist (see p150). The impressive private collection – France’s largest – of Dalí’s paintings, sculptures, engravings, objects and furniture reveals the dramatic char­ acter of the 20th­century Catalan genius. Look out for the bronzes of his memorable “fluid” clocks.

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Cimetière de Montmartre

MAP E1 20 Ave Rachel, 75018 The main graveyard for the district lies beneath a busy road in an old gypsum quarry, though it’s more restful than first appears when you actually get below street level. The illustrious tombs, many with ornately sculpted monuments, packed tightly into this intimate space, reflect the artistic bent of the resi­ dents, who include composers Berlioz and Offenbach, writers Stendhal and Dumas, Russian dancer Nijinsky as well as the iconic film director François Truffaut. •

Portrait artist in the Place du Tertre

du Tertre 4 Place MAP F1

At 130 m (430 ft), Montmartre’s old village square, whose name means “hillock”, is the highest point in the city. Any picturesque charm it might once have had is now sadly hidden under the tourist­trap veneer of overpriced restaurants and portrait artists hawking their services, although the fairy lights at night are still atmospheric. No. 21 houses the Old Montmartre information office, with details about the area. Nearby is the church of St­Pierre de Montmartre, all that remains of the Benedictine abbey which stood here from 1133 until the Revolution.

de Montmartre 5 Musée 12 Rue Cortot, 75018 Open •

Cimetière de Montmartre

10am–6pm daily (Apr–Sep: to 7pm) • Adm • www.museede montmartre.fr The museum is set in Montmartre’s finest town house, known as Le Manoir de Rosimond after the 17th­century actor who once owned it. From 1875 it provided living quarters and studios for numerous artists. Using drawings, photographs and all sorts of memorabilia, the museum presents the history of the Montmartre area, from its 12th­ century convent days to the present, with an emphasis on the bohemian lifestyle of the belle époque. There is even a recreated 19th­century bistro, as well as lovely gardens where Renoir painted.

148 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Cancan dancers on stage at the Moulin Rouge

Rouge 6 Moulin MAP E1 82 Blvd de Clichy,

Lapin Agile 8 Au MAP F1 22 Rue des Saules,

75018 • Shows daily at 9pm & 11pm (dinner at 7pm) • www.moulinrouge.fr The Moulin Rouge (“red windmill”) is the most famous of the belle époque dance halls (see pp64–5) that once scandalized respectable citizens and attracted Montmartre’s artists and other bohemian characters. Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec immortalized the era with his sketches and posters of dancers such as Jane Avril, some of which now grace the Musée d’Orsay (see p17). Cabaret shows are still performed here.

75018 • Open 9pm–1am Tue–Sun • www.au-lapin-agile.com This belle époque restaurant and cabaret (see p152) was a popular hang-out for Picasso and Renoir, and poets Apollinaire and Paul Verlaine. It took its name from a humorous painting by André Gill of a rabbit (lapin) leaping out of a cooking pot, called the Lapin à Gill. In time it became known by its current name (“nimble rabbit”).

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Saint Pierre 7 Halle MAP F1 2 Rue Ronsard, •

75018 • Open 11am–6pm Mon– Fri, 11am–7pm Sat, noon–6pm Sun • Closed public hols, Aug weekends • Adm • www.hallesaintpierre.org The former covered market is now a cultural centre, which hosts temporary exhibitions of Art Brut. Coined by the painter Jean Dubuffet in 1945, the concept of Art Brut encompasses works created outside the boundaries of “official” culture, often by psychiatric patients, prisoners and children. The centre also has a permanent collection of native folk art. It stages avant-garde theatre and musical productions and holds literary evenings and debates.

Lapin à Gill by André Gill

Montmartre and Pigalle ❮❮ 149 des Abbesses 9 Place MAP E1

This pretty square lies at the base of the Butte Montmartre. Visit it via the metro station of the same name to appreciate one of the few original Art Nouveau stations left in the city. Designed by the architect Hector Guimard in 1900, it features green wrought-iron arches, amber lanterns and a ship shield, the symbol of Paris. Along with Porte Dauphine, it is the only station entrance to retain its original glass roof. A mural painted by local artists winds around the spiral staircase at the entrance. But don’t walk to the platform, take the elevator – it’s the deepest station in Paris, with 285 steps. THE MONTMARTRE VINEYARDS It’s hard to imagine it today, but Montmartre was once a French wine region said to match the quality of Bordeaux and Burgundy. There were 20,000 ha (50,000 acres) of Parisian vineyards in the mid-18th century, but today just 1,500 bottles of wine are made annually from the remaining 2,000 vines in Montmartre (below), and are sold in aid of charity.

A DAY IN MONTMARTRE Cimetière de St-Vincent La Maison Rose Moulin de la Galette Dalí Paris Moulin Rouge

Musée de Montmartre Clairon des Chasseurs SacréCoeur Place du Tertre Place des Abbesses La Fourmi

MORNING

As with all the city’s attractions, the sooner you get to Sacré-Coeur (see pp26–7) the more you will have it to yourself – it opens at 6am. Later in the morning, enjoy the bustle of Montmartre, and watch tourists having their portraits painted by the area’s street artists in the Place du Tertre (see p147). There are plenty of places to choose for a coffee, but the one most of the artists frequent is the Clairon des Chasseurs (3 Pl du Tertre; 01 42 62 40 08; open 7am–2am daily). For art of a more surreal kind, visit Dalí Paris (see p147). Head down Rue des Saules to continue the artistic theme with lunch at La Maison Rose (2 Rue de l’Abreuvoir; 01 42 64 49 62). Utrillo once painted this pretty pink restaurant. AFTERNOON

de la Galette 0 Moulin MAP E1 T-junction at Rue •

Tholozé and Rue Lepic, 75018 Montmartre once had more than 30 windmills, used for pressing grapes and grinding wheat; this is one of only two still standing. During the siege of Paris in 1814 its owner, Pierre-Charles Debray, was crucified on its sails by Russian soldiers. It became a dance hall in the 19th century and inspired paintings by Renoir and Van Gogh (see p150). Another windmill on the same street, the Moulin Radet, houses a restaurant confusingly called Le Moulin de la Galette.

Musée de Montmartre (see p147) is close by, as are the Montmartre Vineyards, and also the little Cimetière de St-Vincent where you will find Maurice Utrillo’s grave. Walk back up to Rue Lepic, which is a great place to shop. Next, see the Moulin de la Galette before heading towards the Place des Abbesses, one of Paris’s most picturesque squares. Don’t miss seeing the famous entrance to the Art Nouveau metro station. To the south is a great bar for an apéritif, La Fourmi (74 Rue des Martyrs; 01 42 64 70 35). Then finish off the day in style with a show at the world-famous Moulin Rouge cabaret. See map on p146

150 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Artists who Lived in Montmartre Weber 5 Louise Popularly known as La Goulue, Weber (1866-1929) was a well-known dancer at the Moulin Rouge, famous for her performances of the traditional cancan. Her fall from fame was almost as talked about as her rise to stardom.

Utrillo 6 Maurice Maurice Utrillo (1883–1955) Reclining Nude by Suzanne Valadon

Valadon 1 Suzanne Suzanne Valadon (1865–1938)

was one of the first female painters to find success in Montmartre. Today her bold masterpieces, challenging the conventions of the nude, are on display in France and even at the Met in New York.

Dalí 2 Salvador The Catalan painter

(1904–89) came to Paris in 1929 and held his first Surrealist exhibition that year. He kept a studio in Montmartre, and his work is now celebrated in Dalí Paris (see p147).

lived with his artist mother, Suzanne Valadon, at 12 Rue Cortot, now the Musée de Montmartre (see p147). His painted cityscapes include many atmospheric depictions of old Montmartre.

de Toulouse7 Henri Lautrec

More than any other artist, ToulouseLautrec (1864–1901) is associated with Montmartre for his sketches and posters of dancers at the Moulin Rouge and other dance halls (see p17). For most people, they epitomize the era to this day.

8 Dalida France’s disco queen,

Dalida (1933–87) performed over 700 songs in several languages, which are still popular today.

3 Vincent van Gogh

9 Amedeo Modigliani

The Dutch genius (1853–90) lived for a time on the third floor of 54 Rue Lepic. Many of his early paintings were inspired by the Moulin de la Galette windmill (see p149).

The Italian painter and sculptor (1884–1920) arrived in Paris in 1906, when he was 22, and was greatly influenced by Toulouse-Lautrec and the other famous Toulouse-Lautrec Edgar Degas bohemian artists on the Montmartre scene. The French artist Edgar Degas was born in Paris in 1834 Pierre-Auguste Renoir and lived in the city for the whole of his life, most of the time in Renoir (1841–1919) is another Montmartre, painting many of its artist who found inspiration in the street scenes and characters. He Moulin de la Galette, when he lived died here in 1917 and is buried in at 12 Rue Cortot. For a time he laid Montmartre cemetery (see p147). tables at Au Lapin Agile (see p148).

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Montmartre and Pigalle ❮❮ 151

Hidden Gems l’Evangéliste 1 St-Jean de Montmartre MAP E1 • 19 Rue des Abbesses, 75018 • Open daily This 1904 church is a clash of styles, from Moorish to Art Nouveau.

2 18th-Arrondissement City Hall 1 Pl Jules Joffrin, 75018 • Metro Jules Joffrin On display in this building are two Utrillo paintings.

des Artistes 3 Hameau MAP E1 11 Ave Junot, 75018 •

This little hamlet of artists’ studios is private, but no one will mind if you take a quiet look round.

de la Vie 4 Musée Romantique MAP E1 • 16 Rue Chaptal, 75009 Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Adm for temporary exhibitions George Sand was a frequent visitor to this house, which is now devoted to the writer. •

du Poteau 8 Rue Metro Jules Joffrin

A great market street with an authentic local feel.

du Martyrium 9 Crypte de St-Denis MAP E1 • 11 Rue Yvonne Le Tac, 75018 • 01 42 23 48 94 • Open 3–6pm Fri, 1st Sat & Sun of the month A simple 19th-century chapel, this is said to be on the spot where St Denis, the patron saint of Paris, was beheaded by the Romans in AD 250.

Gustave Moreau 0 Musée MAP E2 14 Rue de La •

Rochefoucauld, 75009 • Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon • Adm • www.musee-moreau.fr The former home of Symbolist artist Moreau displays a large collection of his imaginative works.

des Martyrs 5 Rue MAP E1

Filled with cute shops and cafés, this hilly street leading up to Montmartre is mostly full of locals and travellers looking for a reprieve.

Véron 6 Cité MAP E1 92 Blvd de •

Clichy, 75018 This bucolic cul-de-sac is home to the Académie des Arts Chorégraphiques, a prestigious dance school.

Suzanne 7 Square Buisson MAP E1 Named after a World War II Resistance fighter, this square is a quiet spot to unwind and relax.

Musée Gustave Moreau See map on p146

152 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Cabarets and Clubs Bus Palladium 6 Le MAP E1 6 Rue Pierre •

Fontaine, 75009 • 01 45 26 80 35 • Closed Sun This 1960s club, which was graced by The Beatles, now hosts concerts with an alternative/rock vibe.

Michou 7 Cabaret MAP E1 80 Rue des Martyrs, •

Old photograph of Au Lapin Agile

Lapin Agile 1 Au Poets and artists not only drank

75018 • 01 46 06 16 04 With outrageous drag artists and a compère whose behaviour can never be predicted, this place is close to the original spirit of Montmartre cabaret.

in this cabaret club (see p148), some – such as Renoir and Verlaine – also laid tables. Picasso even paid his bill with one of his Harlequin paintings.

Rouge 2 Moulin MAP E1 82 Blvd de Clichy, •

75018 As old as the Eiffel Tower (1889) and as much a part of the Parisian image, today’s troupe (see p148) of 60 Doriss Girls are the modern versions of Jane Avril and La Goulue.

3 Silencio MAP F3 142 Rue Montmartre, •

75002 • 01 40 13 12 33 David Lynch’s club, which opens to the general public from 11pm, mixes art, theatre and music in one of Paris’s most eclectic nightlife venues.

Cantine de la Cigale 4 La MAP E1 124 Blvd de •

Rochechouart, 75018 • 01 55 79 10 10 A popular brasserie by day, this lively hangout, next to the famed La Cigale theatre, hosts DJ sets on Friday and Saturday nights.

Nouvelle Eve 5 La MAP E1 25 Rue Pierre •

Fontaine, 75009 • 01 48 74 69 25 One of the lesser-known cabaret venues produces professional shows that feature colourful displays of the celebrated French cancan.

Cabaret Michou

Trois Baudets 8 Les MAP E1 64 Blvd de Clichy, •

75018 • 01 42 62 33 33 Famous French singer Serge Gainsbourg got his start at this venue.

Machine du Moulin 9 La Rouge MAP E1 • 90 Blvd de Clichy, 75018 01 53 41 88 89 Next to the Moulin Rouge, this venue hosts both club nights and concerts. •

Divan du Monde 0 Le MAP E1 75 Rue des Martyrs, •

75018 • 07 68 78 68 01 • Combined ticket with Madame Arthur World music gigs and a drag cabaret act coexist at this quirky spot.

Montmartre and Pigalle ❮❮ 153

Places to Eat PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50

Caillebotte 7 Restaurant MAP F2 8 Rue Hippolyte •

Lebas, 75009 • 01 53 20 88 70 • €€ Elegant yet simple dining with a contemporary edge, tucked away from Rue des Martyrs.

Rico 1 Coq Vaisseau Vert MAP E1 98 Rue Lepic, 75018 8 Le 01 42 59 82 89 €€ MAP E1 10 Rue de Parme, •

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Poultry is the star of the show at chef Antoine Westermann’s bistro. Try the rotisserie-style Bresse chicken with hand-cut fries.

75009 • 01 49 70 03 55 • Closed Sat L, Sun & 3 weeks in Aug • €€ This bistro offers innovative French dishes and a great selection of wines.

Pigalle 2 Boullion MAP E1 22 Blvd de Clichy,

Amour 9 Hôtel MAP F2 8 Rue de Navarin,

75018 • 01 42 59 69 31 • € A modern take on the classic French eatery, Boullion Pigalle serves wellpriced traditional fare. Reservation in advance is recommended.

75009 • 01 48 78 31 80 • €€ The modish restaurant in this hip hotel serves internationally inspired food with a mix of French classics.

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Table d’Eugène

3 18 Rue Eugène Sue, 75018 01 42 55 61 64 • Closed Sun, Mon & Aug • €€€ This chic restaurant serves fantastic gastronomic tasting menus at very reasonable prices. •

Relais de la Butte 4 Le MAP E1 12 Rue Ravignan, •

75018 • 01 42 23 24 34 • € A pavement café (see p69) perfect for sipping coffee, tucking into a charcuterie board or indulging in a glass of wine.

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0 Buvette MAP E1 28 Rue Henry •

Monnier, 75009 • 01 44 63 41 71 • € Under a gorgeous tin ceiling, this comfortable New York-style bistro serves cocktails, a mouthwatering chocolate mousse and classic French dishes prepared using locally sourced ingredients. Linger over a hearty brunch at the weekend.

5 Pétrelle MAP F1 34 Rue Pétrelle, •

75009 • 01 42 82 11 02 • Closed Sun L, Mon L, 1st week May & Aug • €€€ A restaurant with offbeat, eccentric decor, an intimate atmosphere and a menu using only local produce.

Pantruche 6 Le MAP F1 3 Rue Victor Massé, •

75009 • 01 48 78 55 60 • Closed Sat & Sun • €€ This bistro is a great go-to for French classics with fun twists.

Buvette, with its beautiful tin ceiling See map on p146

154 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Greater Paris Central Paris has more than enough on offer to keep any visitor occupied, but if time permits you should make at least one foray out of the centre, whether it be to the sumptuous Palace of Versailles, former home of the “Sun King” Louis XIV, or to the Magic Kingdom of Disneyland® Paris. The excellent metro system makes for easy day trips to the area’s two main parks, the Bois de Boulogne and the Bois de Vincennes, for a wide range of outdoor activities, from boating to horse riding or cycling, or just strolling amid pleasant greenery. In contrast to these bucolic pleasures is the cutting-edge modern architecture of La Défense. Visually stunning, it comprises Paris’s high-rise business district, with added attractions in its exhibition centres. Two large cemeteries outside the centre are The Grande Arche de la Défense worth a visit for their ornate tombs. GREATER PARIS 3 3

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Greater Paris ❮❮ 155 begun by Louis XIV around 1662, is overwhelming in its opulence and scale. Plan what you want to see and arrive early, as even a full day may not be long enough. If you’d like to spend a few days exploring, opt for the two-day passport, which includes one musical fountain show (Apr–Oct). Pre-booking your ticket online is essential.

Paris 2 Disneyland Marne-la-Vallée RER ®

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Fountain at Versailles

1 Versailles Place d’Armes, 78000 Versailles RER line C to Versailles-Château– Rive Gauche • Château: open Apr– Oct: 9am–6:30pm Tue–Sun (Nov– Mar: to 5:30pm Tue–Sun); gardens: open 8am–8:30pm daily (winter: 8am–6pm) • Closed public hols • Adm • www.chateauversailles.fr The top day trip from Paris has to be Versailles. This stunning chateau, •

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Places to Eat see p161

35 km 35 km (22 miles) (22 miles)

line A to Marne-la-Vallée Chessy/ Disneyland • See website for opening times and prices • www.disneyland paris.com Since its opening in 1992, this theme park still draws more people than the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower combined. In the shadow of the extravagant Château de la Belle au Bois Dormant (Sleeping Beauty Castle), visitors – whether young or youngat-heart – will enjoy the high-tech workings and imagination behind such attractions as the multisensory, 4D Ratatouille ride and the rollicking Pirates of the Caribbean. At the adjacent Walt Disney Studios® Park, dedicated to Disney’s movies and television shows, visitors can experience the thrill of special-effects rides and professional stunt shows. Marvel, Star Wars and Frozen attractions are the latest additions to the park.

Défense 3 La Metro Esplanade de la Défense or RER line A to La Défense– Grande Arche French vision and flair coupled with Parisian style are clearly shown by this modern urban development. This business and government centre was purposely built to the west of the city to allow the centre to remain unmarred by skyscrapers. More than just offices, however, the area is also an attraction in its own right, with stunning sights such as the Grande Arche, a cube-like structure with a centre large enough to contain Notre-Dame, and surrounded by artworks, a fountain, cafés and restaurants.

156 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area de Vincennes 4 Bois 94300 Vincennes Metro

de Boulogne 6 Bois MAP A2

Château de Vincennes/RER Vincennes Park open 24 hours daily; château open Sep–May: 10am–5pm (Jun– Aug: to 6pm) • Closed public hols • www.chateau-vincennes.fr Southeast of the city lies the Bois de Vincennes (see p58), which has several lakes with boating facilities, beautiful formal gardens, a Buddhist centre, a zoo and children’s play areas. The Château de Vincennes was a royal residence before Versailles and has the tallest keep in Europe. The more energetic can walk here all the way from the Bastille along Promenade Plantée, which follows, part way, a former railway viaduct.

7 Montparnasse Cemetery: open 8am–6pm

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de la Villette 5 Parc 211 Ave Jean-Jaurès, 75019 • Metro Porte de Pantin • 01 40 03 75 75 • Opening times vary depending on the attraction • Adm for certain attractions• www.lavillette.com More than just a park, this landscape (see p60) was created in 1993 to a futuristic design. It provides the usual park features of paths and gardens, but modern sculptures, zany park benches and several major attrac­ tions offer a different edge. These include the Philharmonie de Paris concert hall and museum, the inter­ active science museum, the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, and an Omnimax cinema in a geodesic dome. There are also play areas for children. In the summer, the park holds an open­air film festival.

Parc de la Villette’s Géode

This enormous park is Parisians’ favourite green retreat, especially on summer weekends when its 865 ha (2,135 acres) can become crowded. There is plenty to do here, apart from simply walking and picnicking, such as cycling, horse riding, boating or visiting the various attractions – including parks within the park, two race courses and the striking Frank Gehry­designed Fondation Louis Vuitton (see p159) contemporary arts centre. The park is open 24 hours a day, but is best avoided after dark.

•

Mon–Fri, 8:30am–6pm Sat, 9am– 6pm Sun (mid-Nov–mid-Mar: to 5:30pm) • Tour Montparnasse: www.tourmontparnasse56.com The area of Montparnasse is always recognisable due to the 210­m (689­ft) Tour Montparnasse, which offers spectacular views. It is set to undergo extensive renovation for the 2024 Olympics. Five minutes’ walk away is the area’s main draw, the Montparnasse Cemetery, where the great writers Maupassant, Sartre, de Beauvoir, Baudelaire and Samuel Beckett are buried. Nearby, too, the Catacombs (see p58) offer an intriguing underground experience of the city.

Lachaise Cemetery 8 Père 8 Blvd de Ménilmontant Metro Père-Lachaise • 01 55 25 82 10 • Open 8am–5:30pm Mon–Fri, 8:30am–5:30pm Sat, 9am–5:30pm Sun (Mar–Nov: to 6pm) This is the most visited cemetery in the world, largely due to rock music fans who come from around the world to see the grave of the leg­ endary singer Jim Morrison of The Doors. There are about one million other graves here, and some 70,000 different tombs, including those of Chopin, Oscar Wilde, Balzac, Edith Piaf, Colette, Molière and Delacroix. There are maps posted around the cemetery to help you find the most •

Greater Paris ❮❮ 157 famous graves (see p160), and it’s also possible to download a map from www.paris.fr/cimetieres.

A DAY IN THE BOIS DE VINCENNES La Rigadelle

METRO

Le Drapeau Ledru-Rollin metro & Baron Rouge 3 km (2 miles)

Porte Dorée metro SainteChapelle 5 km (3 miles)

Lac Daumesnil

Château de Vincennes metro Parc Floral de Paris Bois de Vincennes

MORNING

Père Lachaise Cemetery

Monceau 9 Parc Blvd de Courcelles, 75008 Metro Monceau This civilized little park (see p56) is no further from the city centre than Montmartre, yet it goes unnoticed by many visitors. It was created in 1778 by the Duc de Chartres and is still frequented by well-heeled residents. The park grounds are full of statues. •

Marmottan 0 Musée Monet 2 Rue Louis-Boilly, 75016 • Metro La Muette • Open 10am–6pm Tue– Sun (to 9pm Thu) • Adm • www. marmottan.fr Paul Marmottan was an art historian and his 19th-century mansion now houses the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet, including his Impression, Soleil Levant, which gave the Impressionist movement its name. The collection was donated by the artist’s son in 1966, and includes Monet’s own collection of works by Renoir and Gauguin.

To immerse yourself in a swathe of greenery, head to the Bois de Vincennes. Take metro line 1 to Château de Vincennes, stopping off at Le Drapeau brasserie (18 Ave de Paris; 01 43 65 17 94; open 7:30am–midnight Mon–Fri, from 8:30am Sat & Sun) for a cup of coffee. Cross over the road (or follow signs from the metro if you skipped coffee) to the medieval castle that was at the heart of the French monarchy until 1682, when Louis XIV decided to settle in Versailles. Look out for the ornate gate and stained-glass windows of the Gothic Sainte-Chapelle. For lunch, try La Rigadelle (23 Rue de Montreuil; 01 43 28 04 23; open Wed–Sun L & D), just outside the fortress, which specializes in fish and seafood dishes. AFTERNOON

THE TREATY OF VERSAILLES

Walk off lunch amid the flowers and botanical plants in the Parc Floral de Paris (see p59) within the Bois, then head for the charmingly kitsch mini-golf course featuring models of Parisian monuments. Afterwards, if you’re still feeling energetic, stroll to Lac Daumesnil, where you can rent a boat to row around the lake’s two islands.

France, Great Britain, the USA, Italy and Germany negotiated this agreement after World War I at Versailles, which required Germany to demilitarize parts of its territory, reduce the size of its army, abolish conscription, cease trading in military equipment and to pay compensation. The Treaty was signed on 28 June 1919.

Time to rejoin urban life? From the Porte Dorée metro station, near the Art Deco Palais de la Porte Dorée, take the metro westward to the hubbub of the Aligre quarter. Get out at LedruRollin metro station and walk to the lively Baron Rouge (see p101) for a well-earned aperitif. See map on pp154–5

158 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Versailles Sights Hall of Mirrors 1 The The spectacular 70-m- (233-ft-) long Galerie des Glaces has been magnificently restored. It was in this room that the Treaty of Versailles was signed in 1919, formally ending World War I.

Royale 2 Chapelle The Royal Chapel is regarded

as one of the finest Baroque buildings in the country. Finished in 1710, its elegant, white marble Corinthian columns and numerous murals make for an awe-inspiring place of prayer.

de Venus 3 Salon In this elaborate room, which is decorated predominantly in marble, a statue of Louis XIV, the creator of Versailles, stands centre stage, exuding regal splendour beneath the fine painted ceiling.

Bedchamber 4 Queen’s Nineteen royal infants were

born in this opulent room, which has been meticulously restored to exactly how it appeared when it was last used by Marie-Antoinette in 1789.

Queen’s Hamlet

5 Behind the Petit Trianon is

the Queen’s Hamlet, a life-size model village, built for Marie-Antoinette, that was also a functioning farm. The cottages, inspired by rural French architecture, have rustic exteriors, but the interiors are richly furnished.

Salon d’Apollon

d’Apollon 6 Salon Louis XIV’s throne room

is, naturally, one of the palace’s centrepieces, and features a suitably regal portrait of the great Sun King. Dedicated to the god Apollo, it strikingly reflects the French monarchy’s divine self-image.

Royal 7 L’Opéra The opulent opera house

was built in 1770 for the marriage of the Dauphin, the future Louis XVI, to Marie-Antoinette. The floors were designed so that they could be raised to stage level during special festivals.

Domaine de Trianon 8 Le In the southeast corner of the

gardens, Louis XIV and Louis XV had the Grand and Petit Trianon palaces built as “private” retreats. MarieAntoinette was given the Petit Trianon by Louis XVI.

Gardens 9 Palace The palace gardens feature

many walkways, landscaped topiary, fountains, pools, statues and the Orangery, where exotic plants were kept in the winter. The magnificent Fountain of Neptune is situated to the north of the North Wing.

Stables 0 Royal The magnificent stables have Cottages in the Queen’s Hamlet

been restored and they now house the famous Bartabas Academy of Equestrian Arts.

Greater Paris ❮❮ 159

Bois de Boulogne Features de Bagatelle Louis Vuitton 1 Parc 6 Fondation Differing garden styles feature A thrilling example of modern in this park, including English and Japanese, though for most visitors the major attraction is the huge rose garden, best seen in June.

du Pré-Catelan 2 Jardin This park-within-a-park is at the very centre of the Bois. Its lawns and wooded areas include a magnificent 200-year-old beech tree and the idyllic eponymous restaurant (see p161).

d’Acclimatation 3 Jardin The main children’s area

(see p61) of the Bois incorporates a small amusement park, a zoo with a farm and a pets’ corner, and a Herb Museum aimed especially at children.

La Grande Cascade

4 This artificial waterfall was

a major undertaking when the park was built, requiring concrete to be shipped down the Seine.

5 Lakes Two long, thin lakes adjoin

each other. The larger of the two, confusingly called Lac Inférieur (the other is Lac Supérieur) has boats for hire and a motor boat to take you to the islands. Boats for hire in the Bois de Boulogne

architecture, this spectacular glass Frank Gehry-designed building (see p53) is a cultural centre dedicated to modern art. It hosts regular art events and exhibitions.

de Longchamp 7 Château While he redesigned central Paris (see p43), Baron Haussmann landscaped the Bois de Boulogne. This chateau was given to him as a thank-you by Napoleon III.

Garden 8 Shakespeare In the Jardin du Pré-Catelan

is a little garden planted with all the trees, flowers and herbs mentioned in the plays of Shakespeare. There is a lovely open-air theatre.

des Serres 9 Jardin d’Auteuil

This 19th-century garden has a series of greenhouses where ornamental hothouse plants are grown. In the centre is a palm house with tropical plants.

0 Horse-Racing The Bois is home to two

race courses. To the west is the Hippodrome de Longchamp, where flat racing takes place, including the Qatar Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe (see p75); in the east, the Hippodrome d’Auteuil holds steeplechases.

160 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area

Notable Graves Morrison, Père 1 Jim Lachaise Cemetery The American lead singer of The Doors rock band spent the last few months of his life in Paris and died here in 1971. Fans still hold vigils at his grave, which is covered with scrawled messages from those who come from all over the world.

Paris in 1915, less than 1,500 m (5,000 ft) from where she was buried in 1963 in a simple black tomb.

Proust, Père 5 Marcel Lachaise Cemetery

The ultimate chronicler of the city, Proust was born in Paris in 1871. He (see p48) is buried in the family tomb.

Wilde, Père 2 Oscar Lachaise Cemetery

Beckett, 6 Samuel Montparnasse Cemetery

Chopin, Père 3 Frédéric Lachaise Cemetery

Sartre and 7 Jean-Paul Simone de Beauvoir,

Piaf, Père 4 Edith Lachaise Cemetery

Joined together in death as in life, even though they never actually lived together, their joint grave is a remarkably simple affair. Both of these philosophers were born, lived and died in Paris.

The Dublin-born author died in 1900, after allegedly uttering: “My wallpaper and I are fighting a duel to the death. One or the other of us has to go.” His tomb is unmissable, with a huge monument by Jacob Epstein.

The Polish composer was born in 1810 and died in Paris at the age of 39. The statue on his tomb represents “the genius of music sunk in grief”.

The iconic French chanteuse, known as the “little sparrow”, was born in poverty in the Belleville district of

The Irish-born Nobel Prize-winning writer (see p49) settled in Paris in 1937, having previously studied here. He died in 1989 and his gravestone is a simple slab, reflecting the writer’s enigmatic nature.

Montparnasse Cemetery

Bernhardt, Père 8 Sarah Lachaise Cemetery

A world-famous actress, Bernhardt played characters from Hamlet to Cleopatra in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and was one of the first dramatic artists to star on screen.

Bonheur, Père 9 Rosa Lachaise Cemetery

A leading Realist artist featured in the Musée d’Orsay, Bonheur was one of the 19th century’s most prominent painters, allowing her to publicly wear trousers before most French women could.

Père 0 Colette, Lachaise Cemetery

Edith Piaf’s gravestone

One of France’s most respected writers, her novel Gigi was adapted for the stage, when Colette famously picked a young Audrey Hepburn to play the leading role.

Greater Paris ❮❮ 161

Places to Eat PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50

Pré Catelan 1 Le Route de Suresnes, Bois de Boulogne, 75016 • Metro Porte Maillot • 01 44 14 41 14 • Closed Sun, Mon, 2 weeks Feb, 3 weeks Aug, 1 week Nov • €€€ Tucked away in the Bois de Boulogne (see p156) is this high-class dining pavilion in a romantic setting with elegant service.

6 Simonetta 32 Quai de la Marne, 75019 01 42 81 32 63 €€ Locals and families flock to this excellent canal-side pizzeria close to the Parc de la Villette. Eat on the terrace while watching life on the water. •

•

Gare 7 La 19 Chaussée de la Muette, 75016 • Metro La Muette • 01 42 15 15 31 • €€ Any visit to the Bois de Boulogne, should include a stop at this stylish brasserie in a former railway station.

Ramsay 2 Gordon au Trianon 1 Blvd de la Reine, 78000 Versailles • RER line C to Versailles • 01 30 84 50 18 • Closed Mon, Tue–Sat L, Sun, Jan, Aug • €€€ Gordon Ramsay’s protegé Frédéric Larquemin is the chef at this Michelin-starred restaurant.

Interior of La Gare

Le Baratin Fontaine de Belleville 8 3 Rue Jouye-Rouve, 75020 3 La 31–33 Rue Juliette Dodu, Metro Pyrénées 01 43 49 39 70 •

75010 • 09 81 75 54 54 • € This corner café (see p69) has had a facelift by Paris’s hippest coffee roaster. Craft coffee, innovative cocktails, and fresh food are all excellent.

Camondo 4 Le MAP D2 61 bis Rue de •

Monceau, 75008 • 01 45 63 40 40 • Closed Sun • €€€ Set in the Musée Nissim de Camondo (see p59), this restaurant serves modern dishes in an elegant courtyard.

Closerie des Lilas 5 La MAP E6 171 Blvd du •

Montparnasse, 75006 • 01 40 51 34 50 • €€ With its piano bar and terrace, this is a Montparnasse institution. The brasserie is cheaper than the main restaurant. The steak tartare is recommended.

•

Closed Sun & Mon • No vegetarian options • €€ A local favourite in Belleville, this bistro serves modern French cuisine with excellent wines. The fixed-price lunch is particularly popular. •

Perchoir 9 Le 14 Rue Crespin du Gast, 75020 Metro Ménilmontant • 01 83 62 64 22 • Closed Sun D, Mon, Tue, Wed–Sat L • €€ Rooftop restaurant, with an open-air cocktail bar, offering innovative French dishes for dinner and Sunday brunch. •

Urbaine 0 Brasserie 13 Rue Nungesser et Coli, 75016 • Metro Michel Ange Molitor • 01 56 07 08 50 • €€ Housed in the Art Deco Hotel Molitor, Brasserie Urbaine is famous for French classics with modern twists. See map on pp154–5

Streetsmart

Art Nouveau entrance to St-Michel metro station

Getting Around

164

Practical Information

168

Places to Stay

172

General Index

180

Acknowledgments

188

Phrase Book

190

Street Index

192

164 ❯❯ Streetsmart

Getting Around Arriving by Air

Beauvais Airport is some 70 km (43 miles) north Three aiports serve Paris. of Paris and is used Roissy-Charles-de-Gaulle mainly by budget airlines. Airport (CDG), 23 km There is a connecting (14 miles) northeast of bus link with Porte Maillot central Paris, is the metro station. It is wise arrival point for most to book the 90-minute international flights. Its journey in advance online. main terminals are some The Airport Shuttles distance apart, so check website searches the best which one you need in offers for services, includadvance. For more ing shared rides and information regarding private drivers, between flights, download the free the airports and your Aeroports de Paris app. destination. It provides CDG is connected to up-to-date prices for central Paris by Le Bus buses, taxis and all Direct and the RATP other options, allowing Roissybus services, as travellers to find what well as, the easiest option, fits their budget. the RER train line B3. This links with Gare du Nord, International Train Les Halles and St-Michel. Travel A taxi costs €53 from CDG to the Right Bank and €58 Regular high-speed trains to the Left Bank for up to connect Paris’s six international railway stations four people. to numerous major Orly Airport is 14 km cities across Europe. (8.5 miles) south of the Reservations for these city centre and is used services are essential, by French domestic seras seats get booked up vices and some international airlines. The airport quickly, particularly during peak times. is divided into four main You can buy tickets and separate zones – Orly 1, passes for multiple 2, 3 and 4 – each with international journeys its own arrivals and from Eurail or Interrail; departures area. however, you may need Le Bus Direct runs to pay an additional from Orly to and from reservation fee. Always Etoile, Invalides and Montparnasse metro and check carefully before boarding that your pass mainline stations. The high-speed Orlyval shuttle is valid on the service you train serves both of Orly’s wish to use. Eurostar runs a fast, terminals from Antony regular service from on RER line B4. Metro London to central Paris signs to Orly on RER C via the Channel Tunnel. refer to Orly town (not Thalys runs a highOrly Airport). Taxi journey speed service between times generally take about 30 minutes and cost Paris, Brussels and €37 to the Right Bank and Amsterdam ten times a day, with a variety of €32 to the Left Bank.

special offers, package deals and half-price lastminute discounts. Students and those under 26 can benefit from discounted rail travel both to and within France. For more information on discounted travel, visit the Eurail or Interrail website.

Domestic Train Travel Paris has a number of main train stations situated at various locations right across the city, all of which serve different regions. The French state railway, OUI SNCF, has two services in Paris: the Banlieue suburban service and the Grandes Lignes, or long-distance service. The suburban service operates within the five-zone network. The long-distance service operates throughout France. The TGV offers a reliable high-speed service which should be booked in advance. There are also a number of budget high-speed trains, such as Ouigo. Before boarding a train, remember to time-punch (composter) tickets to validate your journey; this does not apply for e-tickets. Tickets for city transport cannot be used on Banlieue trains, with the exception of some RER tickets to stations with both SNCF and RER lines.

Public Transport The metro, RER, buses and trams are all run

Getting Around ❮❮ 165 by RATP (Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens). Safety and hygiene measures, timetables, ticket information, trans­ port maps and more can be found on their website.

validated using the machine on the bus. Anyone travelling without a valid ticket on any mode of transport may be fined.

Aeroports de Paris

Metro and RER

Airport Shuttles

The Paris metro has 14 main lines and two The Paris metropolitan minor lines. The RER is a area is divided into five system of five lines of ticket zones. Central commuter trains that Paris is zone 1, Roissy­ travel underground in Charles­de­Gaulle Airport central Paris and above is in zone 5, and Orly ground in outlying areas. Airport and Versailles are The two systems overlap in zone 4. The metro in the city centre. RER network serves zones 1–3. trips outside the city To avoid buying paper centre require special tickets you can get a tickets; fares to suburbs Navigo pass, a recharge­ and nearby towns vary. able smart card that can be used on the metro, Buses and Trams RER and buses. The Most buses must be Navigo Easy costs €2 flagged down at desig­ for the pass and can be topped up with credit and nated stops. Your ticket may be used for transfers with as many standard to other bus and tramway fares as you like. A ten­ lines for 90 minutes journey top­up will cost (between the first and last less on the Navigo Easy validation). Each time you than when bought as a change buses or trams, paper carnet.The Passe Navigo Découverte costs you must validate your ticket again. Exceptions to €5 for the pass and can this rule are the Balabus, then be loaded with a Noctambus, Orlybus and week’s unlimited travel in zones 1–5. You will need Roissybus services, and lines 221, 297, 299, 350 a passport­sized photo and to add your signature and 351. There are 48 night bus to the pass. lines, called Noctilien, Visitors can also enjoy serving Paris and its unlimited travel on the suburbs. The terminus for metro, RER and Paris most lines is Châtelet. buses with a Paris Visite Eight tram lines, T1 to pass, valid for 1, 3 or 5 consecutive days in zones T8, operate in Paris, mainly servicing the 1–3, or a Mobilis card, valid in the zones of your outskirts of the city. You can travel on the trams choice for one day. Both of these are available from using regular metro tickets and passes. They the RATP. Children aged don’t run past the most 11 and under travel free. major tourist attractions Bus­only paper tickets but can be a pleasant can be purchased on way to see the outer board from the driver. reaches of Paris. All bus tickets must be

Tickets

DIRECTORY ARRIVING BY AIR ∑ aeroportsdeparis.fr

∑ aiportshuttles.com

Beauvais Airport ∑ aeroportparis

beauvais.com Le Bus Direct ∑ lebusdirect.com

Orly Airport ∑ parisaeroport.fr

RATP Roissybus ∑ ratp.fr/en/titres-et-

tarifs/airport-tickets Roissy-Charles-de-Gaulle Airport (CDG) ∑ parisaeroport.fr

INTERNATIONAL TRAIN TRAVEL Eurail ∑ eurail.com

Eurostar ∑ eurostar.com

Interrail ∑ interrail.eu

Thalys ∑ thalys.com

DOMESTIC TRAIN TRAVEL OUI SNCF ∑ oui.sncf.com

Ouigo ∑ ouigo.com

PUBLIC TRANSPORT RATP ∑ ratp.fr

TICKETS Navigo ∑ navigo.fr

166 ❯❯ Streetsmart Long-Distance Bus Travel

motorway access. Paris is surrounded by an outer ring road called the Two major coach oper­ Boulevard Périphérique. ators, FlixBus and All motorways leading to BlaBlaBus, link Paris to the capital link in to the other towns in France and Périphérique, which destinations throughout separates the city from Europe. Between the two the suburbs. Each former companies – low­cost city gate, called a porte, alternatives to planes and now corresponds to an trains – travellers from exit onto or from the Paris can reach London, Périphérique. Arriving Brussels, Amsterdam, motorists should take Milan and Barcelona, as time to check their well as Warsaw, Zagreb destination address and and Bucharest, among consult a map of central other cities. Paris to find the closest corresponding porte. To take your own car Taxis into France you will have Taxis can be hailed in the to carry proof of regis­ street or from one of tration, valid insurance the 500 or so taxi ranks documents, a full and dotted all over the city. valid driving licence, and The meter will show an passport at all times. initial starting charge (around €2.60). There Driving in Paris is generally an additional Driving in Paris is not charge for more than three passengers and for recommended. Traffic is often heavy, there are luggage weighing more than 5 kg and bulky items many one­way streets (but not for wheelchairs). and parking can be Vélo taxis are motorized notoriously difficult, not to mention expensive. tricycle rickshaws that For those who must offer a green alternative drive in the city, Paris is to traditional taxis. G7 a limited traffic zone and Taxis has a large fleet of electric and hybrid cars. If it is compulsory for all you’re after a motorcycle vehicles to display a Crit’Air sticker with a taxi, book with CityBird. number ranging from 1 Taxi apps such as Uber, to 5, which denotes the Free Now and Bolt also level of pollution in operate in Paris. ascending order. In the event of high pollution Driving to Paris levels, vehicles with Autoroutes (motorways) certain stickers may be converge on Paris from banned from the road. all directions. For those The stickers can be travelling from Britain purchased from the Air to Paris by road, the Quality Certificate Service. simplest way is to use the Park in areas with a Eurotunnel trains that run large “P” or payant sign between the terminals at on the pavement or Folkestone and Calais, road, and pay at the which both have direct parking meter with La

Paris Carte (available from any kiosk), a credit or debit card, or by using the PaybyPhone app. Paris has numerous underground car parks, signposted by a white “P” on a blue background.

Car Rental To rent a car in France you must be 21 years old or over and have held a valid driver’s licence for at least a year. You will also need to present a credit card to secure the rental deposit. Check the regulations regarding the type of driving licence you will need to drive in France with your local automobile association before you travel. Ada.Paris is a self­ service car rental firm that operates throughout Paris and the Paris region. You can pick up a car from one parking station, make your journey and park at any other station in the region.

Rules of the Road Always drive on the right. Unless otherwise sign­ posted, vehicles coming from the right have right of way. Cars on a round­ about usually have right of way, although the Arc de Triomphe is a hair­ raising exception because cars give way to traffic on the right. At all times, drivers must carry a valid driver’s licence, registration and insurance documents. The wearing of seat belts is compulsory, and it is prohibited to sound your horn in the city. For motorbikes and scooters, the wearing of helmets

Getting Around ❮❮ 167 and protective gloves is compulsory. In the city centre, it is against the law to use the bus lanes at all times. France strictly enforces its drink-drive limit of 0.05 percent BAC (blood alcohol content).

Boats and Ferries Several companies run regular passenger and vehicle ferry services from the UK. P&O Ferries offers services from Dover to Calais, Condor Ferries operates between Poole and St-Malo and DFDS Seaways runs routes from Newhaven to Dieppe and from Dover to Dunkirk. Brittany Ferries makes crossings from Plymouth to Roscoff, from Poole and Portsmouth to Cherbourg, and from Portsmouth to Le Havre and Caen. They also run an overnight service from Portsmouth to St-Malo. Driving to Paris from Cherbourg takes about four hours; from Dieppe

or Le Havre, about two and a half hours; and from Calais, two hours.

Paris by Boat Paris’s riverboat shuttle, the hop-on-hop-off Batobus, runs every 20 to 45 minutes, with more frequent services in spring and summer. Tickets can be bought at Batobus stops and at RATP and tourist offices.

Cycling Paris is reasonably flat, manageably small and has many backstreets where traffic is restricted. You can hire a bicycle and download a free map of the city’s cycle lanes at Paris à Vélo. Allovelo has a selection of electic bikes for hire. The Vélib’ shared bike scheme is available 24 hours a day. There are some 1,400 Vélib’ docking terminals dotted throughout the city; payment is made via the smartphone

app or by credit card at the terminals. For regular bikes, the first half-hour is free, increasing by €1 for every additional halfhour; for electric bikes the first half-hour is €1, increasing by €2 for every additional half-hour.

Bicycle Tours Fat Tyre Tours offers trips to Paris’s most famous landmarks, while Paris à Vélo runs multilingual tours to more offbeat locations. Bike About Tours organizes small group tours around Paris and Versailles.

Walking Walking is by far the most agreeable way to explore central Paris and the best way to experience its beauty and culture. Most sights are only a short distance apart. The Office du Tourisme et des Congrès de Paris has walking itineraries on their website.

DIRECTORY LONG-DISTANCE BUS TRAVEL BlaBla Bus ∑ blablacar.fr/bus Flixbus ∑ global.fixbus.com TAXIS CityBird ∑ city-bird.com G7 Taxis ∑ taxisg7.com DRIVING IN PARIS Air Quality Certificate Service ∑ certificat-air.gouv.fr PaybyPhone ∑ paybyphone.fr

CAR RENTAL Ada.Paris ∑ ada.fr BOATS AND FERRIES Brittany Ferries ∑ brittany-ferries.co.uk Condor Ferries ∑ condorferries.co.uk DFDS Seaways ∑ dfdsseaways.co.uk P&O Ferries ∑ poferries.com

PARIS BY BOAT Batobus ∑ batobus.com

CYCLING Allovelo ∑ allovelo.paris Paris à Vélo ∑ paris.fr/velo Vélib ∑ velib-metropole.fr

BICYCLE TOURS Bike About Tours ∑ bikeabouttours.com Fat Tyre Tours ∑ fattiretours.com

WALKING Office du Tourisme et des Congrès de Paris ∑ parisinfo.com

168 ❯❯ Streetsmart

Practical Information Passports and Visas of belongings, medical For entry requirements, including visas, consult your nearest French embassy or check the France-Visas website. EU nationals and citizens of the UK, US, Canada, Australia and New Zealand do not need a visa for a stay of up to three months as long as their passport is valid for at least three months beyond the end of their stay.

care, cancellations and delays, and read the small print carefully. EU citizens are eligible for free emergency medical care in France, provided they have a valid EHIC (European Health Insurance Card).

can give details of the nearest doctor. Unless stated otherwise, tap water in France is safe to drink. No vaccinations are needed for France.

Smoking, Alcohol and Drugs

Smoking is prohibited in all public places, but France has a worldis allowed on restaurant, class healthcare system. café and pub outside Emergency medical care terraces, as long as is free for all EU nationals they are not enclosed. The possession of Government Advice with an EHIC card. Be sure to present this as narcotics is prohibited Now, more than ever, it early on as possible. You and could result in a is important to consult may have to pay for treat- prison sentence. both your and the French ment and reclaim the Unless stated otherwise, government’s advice money later. For other alcohol consumption on before travelling. The visitors, payment of the streets is permitted. UK Foreign and medical expenses is the Commonwealth Office, patient’s responsibility. ID the US Department of It is therefore important State, the Australian to arrange comprehensive There is no requirement Department of Foreign for visitors to carry ID, but medical insurance Affairs and Trade and in the event of a routine before travelling. Gouvernement France check you may be asked Paris hospitals are offer the latest information listed on the Assistance to show your passport. If on security, health and you don’t have it with you, Publique website. The local regulations. the police may escort you most centrally located hospital is the Hôtel Dieu. to wherever your passport In the case of a dental is being kept. Customs emergency, SOS Dentaire Information will provide a prompt Personal Security You can find information house call, but be on the laws relating to prepared to pay a substan- Paris is generally a safe city to visit. Petty theft is goods and currency taken tial fee for this visit. A as common here as in in or out of France on the dental practice can be most major cities. Pickofficial France Tourism found at the Centre pockets often frequent website. For EU citizens Médical Europe. tourist spots and wander there are no limits on A green cross (usually goods that can be taken in flashing neon) indicates the metro system and RER so guard your belongings into or out of France, a pharmacy (chemist). at all times. To report a provided they are for They are usually open theft, go to the nearest your personal use. 9am–7pm Monday to police station (commissariat Saturday. At other times, de police). A list of police the address of the duty Insurance stations can be found on pharmacy will usually be We recommend that you displayed. Pharmacies the Office du Tourisme take out a comprehensive will advise on minor et des Congrès de Paris policy covering theft, loss health problems and website. Get a copy of

Health

Practical Information ❮❮ 169 the crime report in order to make an insurance claim. If you have your passport stolen, contact your embassy. For emergency police, fire department or ambulance services call 112 – the operator will ask which service you require. For medical emergencies you can also dial 15 for SAMU (ambulance). The direct number for the police is 17 and for the fire department it is 18. When travelling late at night, avoid long transfers in metro stations such as Châtelet-Les-Halles and Montparnasse. The last RER trains to and from outlying areas should also be avoided. Paris is a diverse, multicultural city. As a rule, Parisians are accepting of all people, regardless of their race, gender or sexuality. Same-sex marriage

was legalized in 2013 and France recognized the right to legally change your gender in 2016. Paris has a thriving LGBT+ scene, centred in the Marais district. The Centre LGBT Paris Ile-deFrance offers advice and hosts regular events. It also has a library and bar. Events in recent years have led to an increased army and police presence in Paris, which should be regarded as normal. Expect bag checks at most major attractions. Small groups of armed guards patrolling are common scenes.

organizations working to further improve accessibility throughout France’s capital. The Office du Tourisme et des Congrès de Paris lists easily accessible sights, adapted public toilets and routes for visitors with mobility, visual or hearing impairment, while Jaccede has details of accessible museums, hotels, bars, restaurants and cinemas. The Vianavigo website provides detailed information on accessible public transport, including a route planner that can be tailored to your specific needs. SNCF’s Accès Plus Travellers website is a useful source with Specific of information regarding Requirements accessible train travel. Paris’s historic buildings Les Compagnons du and cobbled streets can Voyage will provide an make the city tricky to escort for persons with navigate. However, most limited mobility or visual of Paris’s top attractions or hearing impariment are wheelchair-accessible on public transport, for a and there are a number of small fee.

DIRECTORY PASSPORTS AND VISAS France-Visas ∑ france-visas.gouv.fr

INSURANCE EHIC ∑ ec.europa.eu

GOVERNMENT ADVICE Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade ∑ smartraveller.gov.au Gouvernement France ∑ gouvernement.fr UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office ∑ gov.uk/foreign-traveladvice US Department of State ∑ travel.state.gov

HEALTH Assistance Publique ∑ apap.fr Centre Médical Europe MAP E2 • 44 Rue d’Amsterdam, 75009 ∑ centre-medicaleurope.fr Hôtel Dieu MAP N4 • Pl du Parvis Notre Dame, 75004 § 01 42 34 82 34 SOS Dentaire 87 Blvd Port Royal, 75013 ∑ sosdentaire.com

CUSTOMS INFORMATION France Tourism ∑ ee.france.fr

PERSONAL SECURITY Centre LGBT Paris Ile-de- France ∑ centrelgbtparis.org

Fire Department

§ 18

Office du Tourisme et des Congrès de Paris ∑ parisinfo.com Police § 17 Police, Fire Department and Ambulance § 112 SAMU (ambulance) § 15

TRAVELLERS WITH SPECIFIC REQUIREMENTS Accès Plus ∑ accessbilite.sncf.com Les Compagnons du Voyage ∑ compagnons.com Jaccede ∑ jaccede.com Vianavigo ∑ actus.lab.vianavigo.com

170 ❯❯ Streetsmart 260 public places, including museums, parks France operates Central and libraries. These European Time (CET), are clearly signposted which is 1 hour ahead of with the Paris-Wifi logo. Greenwich Mean Time Simply select the Paris_ (GMT), 6 hours ahead of Wi-Fi_ network on your US Eastern Standard device, fill in your details Time (EST) and 9 hours when prompted and you ahead of PST (Pacific will then be connected to Time Zone). The clock the web for free. moves forward 1 hour Cafés and restaurants during daylight saving usually permit free use of time from the last Sunday their Wi-Fi as long as you in March until the last make a purchase, and Sunday in October. Keep many hotels provide free in mind the French use Wi-Fi to guests. the 24-hour clock. Visitors with EU tariffs will be able to use their devices abroad without Money being affected by data France’s currency is the roaming charges. Users euro (€). Most establish- will be charged the same ments accept major rates for data, SMS and credit, debit and prepaid voice calls as they would currency cards, but it’s pay at home. Those not always a good idea to on EU tariffs should carry some cash too. check roaming rates Contactless payments are with their provider. A widely accepted in Paris. cheaper option may be to Tipping in restaurants purchase a French SIM is considered polite. If card (you will need to you are pleased with the show ID). service a tip of 5–10% of the total bill is appreciated. Postal Services Hotel porters and housekeeping generally expect The postal service in France is fast and relia tip of €1 to €2 per bag or day. It is sufficient to tip able. The main post office in Paris, La Poste Paris taxi drivers €1 to €2. Louvre, is located at Electrical Appliances 16 rue Etienne Marcel and has the longest Electricity runs on opening hours. 220V out of double, Most post offices have round-pin wall sockets. self-service machines to You will need adaptors, weigh and frank your and possibly a transmail. For simple letters former (for some US and postcards, you can electrical appliances). buy stamps at a tabac (tobacconist) rather than try to find a post office Mobile Phones (La Poste). Not all tabacs and Wi-Fi advertise the service, but Free Wi-Fi hotspots if they sell postcards it is dotted all over Paris worth asking. Some provide fast internet hotels and newsagents access in more than also sell postage stamps.

Time Zone

Weather Paris has a temperate and pleasant climate. Summers can be hot, with temperatures sometimes reaching 35–40°C (95–105°F). Both spring and autumn are mild, with a fair amount of rain, but there are also many bright days. Winter is cold, though the light then can be beautiful.

Opening Hours Department stores and chain boutiques are usually open 10am– 8pm Monday to Saturday. Some open on Sunday too. Independent shops often don’t open up until 10 or 11am, and may be closed during the holidays, on Mondays and/or between noon and 2pm, but some open on Sundays in main tourist areas. Many food shops are open on a Sunday morning. Museums are generally open 9/10am to 5/6pm and some have a late opening one evening a week. Most museums close either on a Monday or Tuesday. Banks are usually open Tuesday to Saturday 9am–4pm. Businesses, banks, most shops and many restaurants are closed on New Year’s Day, Easter Monday, 1 May (Labour Day), 8 May (VE Day), Ascension Day (40 days after Easter), Whitsun (7th Sunday after Easter), Whit Monday (the day after Whitsun), 14 July (Bastille Day), 15 August (Assumption), 1 November (All Saints’ Day), 11 November (Armistice Day) and 25 December (Christmas Day).

Practical Information ❮❮ 171 COVID-19 The pandemic continues to affect Paris. Some museums, tourist attractions and hospitality venues are operating on reduced or temporary opening hours, and require visitors to make advance bookings for a specific date and time. Always check ahead before visiting.

60 attractions for 2, 3, 4 or 6 consecutive days. It also includes unlimited travel on the metro, buses and RER within central Paris, and a ticket for a hop-on hop-off bus tour.

receipt and passport at customs when you depart to receive your refund.

Accommodation

Paris offers a huge variety of accommodation, including luxury five-star Local Customs hotels, family-run B&Bs, Etiquette (la politesse) is budget hostels and important to Parisians. On private apartments. The entering a store or café, Office du Tourisme et des you are expected to say Congrès de Paris website “bonjour” to staff, and provides an extensive list when leaving, “au revoir”. of options. Book as far in advance Visitor Information Be sure to add “s’il vous plaît” (please) when as you can, as hotels get The Paris tourism board, ordering something and booked up quickly, espeOffice du Tourisme et des “pardon” if you bump into cially in spring and autumn and around Congrès de Paris, has a someone accidentally. Christmas and New Year. very useful website. Its The French usually France offers more than main information centre shake hands on meeting 9,000 campsites all over is located close to the someone for the first the country, in hugely Hôtel de Ville metro time. Friends and varied landscapes. A station. There are also colleagues who know information points at Gare each other well greet each full list and information about facilities is availdu Nord and Beauvais other with a kiss on each able on the Camping Airport, on the Champscheek. If you are unsure France website. Élysées, at the Carrousel what’s expected, wait to All places of accommdu Louvre and near the see if they proffer a hand odation are obliged by law Opéra Garnier. or a cheek. to add a tourist tax (taxe de Visit Paris Region séjour touristique) to their serves both Paris and Language rates. This ranges from the wider Ile de France French is the official 0.5 to 5 euros per person region, and is the best language spoken in Paris. per night. source of advice and The French are fiercely information on visiting proud of their language, places outside the city. It DIRECTORY but don’t let this put you has offices at Roissy– off. Mastering a few CDG and Orly airports, VISITOR niceties goes a long way Disneyland® Paris and INFORMATION Galeries Lafayette. though you can get Office du Tourisme et Entry to some national by without knowing the des Congrès de Paris and municipal museums language at all. MAP G4 is free on the first Sunday • 29 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 of each month. Visitors Taxes and Refunds ∑ parisinfo.com under 18 years of age and EU passport holders aged VAT is around 20% in Paris Pass France. Non-EU residents 18–26 years are usually ∑ parispass.com admitted free of charge to can claim back tax on Visit Paris Region certain goods. Look out national museums, and ∑ visitparisregion.com for the Global Refund Taxthere are sometimes disFree sign, where the counts for students and ACCOMMODATION those over 60 who have ID retailer will supply a Camping France showing their date of birth. form and issue a détaxe ∑ campingfrance.com receipt. Present the The Paris Pass offers goods receipt, détaxe access to more than

172 ❯❯ Streetsmart

Places to Stay Twenty minutes on foot from the Louvre, the hotel is on a quiet street away from the crowds. For a € under €150 €€ €150–€350 €€€ over €350 more serene experience, ask for a room facing the Boutique Hotels couple of the 18th-century interior courtyard. Opéra-Comique. WellHôtel Amour Hôtel Vernet appointed, cheerfully MAP E2 8 Rue Navarin, decorated rooms have a MAP C3 25 Rue Vernet, 75009 01 48 78 31 80 courtesy tray; guests also 75008 01 44 31 98 00 www.hotelamourparis. have access to the pool. www.hotelvernetfr €€ paris.com €€€ Hôtel Baume Just below the hill of Steps away from the MAP M5 7 Rue Casimir Champs-Elysées, this Montmartre, this trendy Delavigne, 75006 01 53 hotel combines cuttinghotel and bistro has 10 28 50 www.baume- edge contemporary medium-sized rooms with different themes, all hotel-paris.com/en/ €€€ design with the elegant Minutes from the Jardin brightly decorated with framework of the postcutting-edge photography de Luxembourg, this Haussmannian building modern hotel has been (some erotic) and pop that it occupies. Enjoy outfitted with a glamorous breakfast underneath art. As it is on a quiet residential street, guests Art Deco-inspired interior. the ornate, Gustave-EiffelOn the upper floors, spa- designed glass dome. can experience Parisian bohemia without the usual cious suites with a large W Paris - Opéra crowds. Visitors can also terrace overlook the Hotel Neo-Classical Théâtre stay in the sister Hôtel MAP E2 4 Rue de l’Odéon. Grand Amour if Hôtel Meyerbeer, 75009 Amour is fully booked. Hôtel Bel Ami 01 77 48 94 94 www. Hôtel du Temps MAP K4 7/11 Rue Stwparisopera.com €€€ MAP F2 11 Rue de Benoît, 75006 01 42 Ideally located next to the Montholon, 75009 01 61 53 53 www.hotel Opéra National de Paris 47 70 37 16 www.hotel- belami-paris.fr €€€ Garnier, the W brings its du-temps.fr €€ Occupying a former trendy, modern flair to Vintage furniture and 19th-century printing Paris with 91 ultra-chic textiles give this creatively works, this bright, stylish rooms and suites. Opt decorated small hotel, hotel is on a small side for a room with a view near the Gare du Nord, street in the heart of lively of the opera house. a home-away-from-home St-Germain-des-Prés. feel. Some rooms can be A good choice for design- Luxury Hotels snug, but the imaginative conscious families, it Hôtel Molitor touches fill the space has connecting rooms, 13 Rue Nungesser et Coli, with charm and style. as well as larger rooms 75016 Metro Michelthat include a sofabed. La Maison Favart Ange – Molitor 01 56 07 MAP E3 5 Rue de Hôtel de Nell 08 50 www.mltr.fr €€ Marivaux, 75002 01 42 MAP F2 9 Rue du An immaculate and 97 59 83 www.lamaison Conservatoire, 75009 stunning hotel which 01 44 83 83 60 www. breathes new life into favart.com €€ There is a sense of theatre hoteldenell.com €€€ the historic Art Deco at this graceful, small hotel The sleek, minimalist Piscine Molitor, where the beautiful people of dedicated to the colourful rooms in this contem1930s Paris made waves. lives of Charles-Simon and porary hotel are ideal Minutes from the elegant for a chic Parisian stay. Justine Favart, the “It” PRICE CATEGORIES For a standard double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.

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Places to Stay ❮❮ 173 botanical gardens in the Le Royal Monceau MAP C2 37 Ave Hoche, Bois de Boulogne, it is within walking distance of 75008 01 42 99 88 00 www.leroyalmonceau. the metro to central Paris. com €€€ Four Seasons This Paris branch of George V the Raffles hotel chain MAP C3 31 Ave George features interiors by V, 75008 01 49 52 70 00 Philippe Starck, two www.fourseasons.com/ superb restaurants and paris €€€ a Clarins spa with a pool. One of the most luxurious Mandarin Oriental and fashionable hotels MAP E3 251 Rue in Paris, the George V combines period features St-Honoré, 75001 01 70 98 78 88 www. with modern amenities. mandarinoriental.com/ Bedrooms are spacious, beautifully decorated and paris €€€ On one of Paris’s most have marble bathrooms. The three-Michelin-starred fashionable streets, this centrally located hotel has restaurant, Le Cinq (see elegant rooms and suites, p117), is unquestionably one of the finest places to plus a top-floor four-beddine in the whole of Paris. room apartment with a rooftop terrace. In addition Hôtel de Crillon to a two-Michelin-starred MAP D3 10 Pl de la restaurant, the hotel has Concorde, 75008 01 its own cake shop. 44 71 15 00 www. rosewoodhotels.com/en/ The Peninsula Paris MAP B3 19 Ave Kléber, hotel-de-crillon €€€ This luxury hotel is 75016 01 58 12 28 88 www.peninsula.com housed in a Neo-Classical €€€ building dating from Occupying a sumptuously 1758. The stylish rooms restored 1908 building, feature flat-screen TVs and Nespresso machines steps away from the Arc while the en suite marble de Triomphe, this hotel feels modern and has bathrooms have heated some great contemporary floors. Visitors can enjoy artworks on display in live music in the bar. its vast public areas. Hôtel Raphaël Among the six drinking MAP B3 17 Ave Kleber, and dining outlets in the 75116 01 53 64 32 00 hotel, the Oiseau Blanc www.raphael-hotel. restaurant stands out com €€€ for its spectacular views. In a 1920s building close to Gershwin wrote the the Arc de Triomphe, this musical An American fine hotel has traditionally in Paris here in 1928. decorated rooms with modern facilities. Rooms Prince de Galles MAP C3 33 Ave George on higher floors have V, 75008 01 53 23 77 77 stunning city views; the www.princedegalles rooftop’s terrace restaurant and Champagne bar paris.com €€€ Steps from the luxury (open in summer) overand haute couture looks the Eiffel Tower. •

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boutiques, this gloriously restored Art Deco hotel features handsome rooms (some with a balcony or terrace), two restaurants and a cocktail bar. Guests can use the on-site spa and gym.

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Ritz Paris MAP D3 15 Pl Vendôme, 75001 01 43 16 30 30 www.ritzparis.com €€€ This iconic 1898 hotel enjoys a superb location overlooking the elegant Place Vendôme. The lovely, spacious rooms with French decor have exquisite antiques and marble bathrooms. The fabulous Hemingwayinspired bar is not to be missed. •

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Shangri-La Paris MAP A3 10 Ave d’Iéna, 75116 01 53 67 19 98 www.shangri-la.com €€€ Housed in the former home of Napoleon’s grand-nephew, this fabulous hotel is located in the elegant 16th arron­ dissement. Most of the rooms have views of the Eiffel Tower. •

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The Westin Paris MAP E3 3 Rue de Castiglione, 75001 01 44 77 11 11 www. westin.marriott.com €€€ The Westin is a world away from the usual anonymity of chain hotels due to its location in a 19th-century building designed by Charles Garnier. The original atmosphere has been retained, but the rooms offer everything you would expect from a hotel of this class. •

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174 ❯❯ Streetsmart Romantic Hotels

decor and sparkling crystal chandeliers Five Hotel evoke the essence of 3 Rue Flatters, 75005 18th-century romance Metro Les Gobelins here. Rooms facing 01 43 31 74 21 www. the street have large thefivehotel.com €€ French windows; others Fibre-optic lighting creates overlook the quiet a glittering atmosphere in inner courtyard. this boutique hotel’s 24 Hôtel d’Aubusson rooms. The rooms come in nine colours and boast MAP M4 33 Rue five “olfactory ambiences” Dauphine, 75006 01 by Esteban. The Five has 43 29 43 43 www.hotel daubusson.com €€ already established a The rooms in this 17threputation as the perfect century building are lovers’ hideaway hotel. spacious and many of them Hôtel Bellechasse have beams. The hotel’s MAP J2 8 Rue de café doubles as a chic jazz Bellechasse, 75007 bar, which regularly hosts 01 45 50 22 31 www. concerts and events. lebellechasse.com €€ The opulent rooms at this Hôtel Costes MAP E3 239–241 Rue boutique hotel – all rich colours, plush fabrics and St-Honoré, 75001 01 decorated ceilings – were 42 44 50 00 www.hotel costes.com €€€ designed by Christian Lacroix. Evening cocktails Book a first-floor room overlooking the courtyard may be followed by for a romantic place to breakfast in bed. The stay. Low lighting and Musée d’Orsay is a few dark furniture add to the minutes’ walk away. seductive mood, as does Hôtel Bourg Tibourg the swimming pool, live MAP P3 19 Rue du music and trendy Bourg Tibourg, 75004 restaurant. 01 42 78 47 39 www. Hôtel Particulier bourgtibourg.com €€ The rooms in this hotel are Montmartre MAP E1 23 Ave Junot, furnished with antiques Pavillon D, 75018 01 and luxurious fabrics. 53 41 81 40 www. Public spaces are hung with tapestries, and there hotelparticulier.com €€€ is a library lounge. Most rooms are small and even This hotel is a romantic the lift is tiny but the loca- hideaway right in the heart of Montmartre, tion, in the heart of the housed in a former private Marais, makes up for it. residence between the Hôtel Caron de picturesque Avenue Junot Beaumarchais and Rue Lepic. The five MAP R2 12 Rue Vieille suites are individually du Temple, 75004 01 42 decorated by artists in 72 34 12 www.caronde quirky and decadent beaumarchais.com €€ style.It is surrounded by Wooden beams, a log a vast, beautiful garden, fire, candlelight, charming abundant with vegetation. • •

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Le Relais Christine MAP M4 3 Rue Christine, 75006 01 40 51 60 80 www.relais-christine. com €€€ This historic mansion with a spa offers a quiet side-street escape from the St-Germain bustle. Guests can opt for a terraced room overlooking the secluded garden and take breakfast in the vaulted dining room, which was once the refectory of an abbey. •

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L’Hôtel MAP E4 13 Rue des Beaux-Arts, 75006 01 44 41 99 00 www.lhotel.com €€€ This hotel has come up in the world since Oscar Wilde expired here, having uttered the famous words, “My wallpaper and I are fighting a duel to the death. One or the other of us has to go.” Fashionable as it has become, with its stylish decor by Jacques Garcia as well as a bookable private hammam, the hotel still retains its quirky charm. •

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Hotels in Great Locations Hôtel Brighton MAP K1 218 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 01 47 03 61 61 www.paris-hotelbrighton.com €€ Enjoy the Rue de Rivoli, within walking distance of numerous attractions, without paying the usual prices associated with this location. The venerable Hôtel Brighton was a famous stop on many a Briton’s Grand Tour. Ask for a room with a view over the Tuileries gardens opposite or of the Eiffel Tower. •

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Places to Stay ❮❮ 175 Hôtel de la Place du Louvre

Hôtel du Jeu de Paume

are decorated in either a contemporary style MAP M2 21 Rue des MAP Q5 54 Rue St-Louis- or classic 1930s French, Prêtres-St-Germainen-l’Ile, 75004 01 43 26 depending on which wing 14 18 www.jeude l’Auxerrois, 75001 01 you stay in. The hotel also 42 33 78 68 www.paris- paumehotel.com €€ boasts an Italian restauhotel-place-du-louvre. Tucked away on the Ile rant, l’Assaggio. com €€ St-Louis is this characHôtel Le Bristol Paris The 20 rooms in this neat terful old building with little hotel may be small, ancient beamed ceilings. MAP D3 112 Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, but many of them offer a Some rooms overlook a superb view onto the peaceful courtyard, and all 75008 01 53 43 43 00 www.lebristolparis.com colonnade of the Louvre are quite small, but the €€€ museum. The decor is welcoming atmosphere Prices reflect the level of bright and fresh, and makes up for that. luxury and the location, cleverly mixes classic Hôtel Edouard VII on the Rue du Faubourg and modern influences. MAP E3 39 Ave de St-Honoré. Rooms are Hôtel des l’Opéra, 75002 01 42 spacious, and fitted out Deux-Iles 61 56 90 www.hotel with antique furniture. MAP Q5 59 Rue edouard7-paris.fr €€ They offer indulgently St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004 An elegant boutique large marble bathrooms, 01 43 26 13 35 www. hotel with eclectic design as well as all the latest deuxiles-paris-hotel.com features and oodles of modern facilities. There €€ charm. Most rooms have are also two restaurants. To stay on one of the the bonus of breathSeine islands is a treat, taking balcony views over Pavillon de la Reine and to do it in this hotel the spectacular Opéra is a double treat. The National de Paris Garnier. MAP R3 28 Pl des Vosges, 75003 01 40 bedrooms may be small, The bar serves tailor29 19 19 www.pavillondue to the building’s made cocktails and a 17th-century origins, range of snacks, and the de-la-reine.com €€€ but the cheerful decor, restaurant offers inventive This may well be the best hotel in the Marais, right the intimacy (only 17 seasonal cuisine. on the Place des Vosges. rooms) and the hidden Hôtel Les Dames It offers lovely rooms, a patio with its flowers du Panthéon spa and a quiet courtyard. and fountain more MAP N6 19 Pl du The list of famous guests than compensate. Panthéon, 75005 01 43 includes Georges Simenon Hôtel d’Orsay 54 32 95 www.hotelles and Victor Hugo. MAP J2 93 Rue de Lille, damesdupantheon.com €€ Rooms with 75007 01 47 05 85 54 www.paris-hotel-orsay. This retro-inspired hotel a View com €€ has great views across to Artus Hôtel Art-lovers will enjoy this the Panthéon, and the MAP L4 34 Rue de Buci, hotel in an 18th-century feel of an 18th-century building near the magtownhouse – some rooms 75006 01 43 29 07 20 www.artushotel.com nificent Musée d’Orsay. have four-poster beds and €€ The hotel’s bright and spacious bathrooms. Indulge yourself in the food modern decor is strikingly Castille shops of the Rue de Buci, offset with choice items of elegant antique furniture MAP E3 33–37 Rue then pamper yourself even here and there. Several Cambon, 75001 01 44 more back in this hotel – 58 44 58 www.castille. more expensive suites especially if you have are also available. A buffet com €€€ booked the suite with a This elegant hotel is breakfast is served in a Jacuzzi, from which there light and airy room under located near Place are views of the rooftops Vendôme. The bedrooms of the Latin Quarter. a glass roof. •

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For a key to hotel price categories see p172

176 ❯❯ Streetsmart Bourgogne & Montana

Hotel Square MAP A5 3 Rue de Boulainvilliers, 75016 01 44 14 91 90 www. hotelsquare.com €€ The Square is an ultrachic boutique hotel with 22 rooms and views over Paris. The dramatic architecture includes a four-storey exhibition wall featuring a regularly changing display of works by modern artists. Classic and inventive cuisine is served at the sleek Zebra brasserie, and there is also a spa. •

MAP D4 3 Rue de Bourgogne, 75007 01 45 51 20 22 www. bourgogne-montana. com €€ A stylish hotel, with the Musée d’Orsay as well as the Invalides close by. Rooms feature Empire-style furnishings and Kenzo-designed wallpaper. Some topfloor rooms have views across the Seine. •

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Hôtel des Grands Hommes MAP N6 17 Pl du Panthéon, 75005 01 46 34 19 60 www.hoteldes grandshommes.com €€ Enjoy great upper-floor views of the Panthéon from this intimate 30-room hotel in an 18th-century house. Rooms are a good size. •

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Hôtel du Quai Voltaire •

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Hôtel Notre-Dame St-Michel MAP N4 1 Quai StMichel, 75005 01 43 54 20 43 www.hotelnotre dameparis.com €€ Located right by the Seine with magnificent views of Notre-Dame. Rooms may be small, but they have been lavishly decorated by Christian Lacroix. •

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Les Rives de Notre-Dame

Le Metropolitan MAP A3 10 Pl de Mexico, 75116 01 56 90 40 04 www.hotelle metropolitan paris.com €€€ Five upper suites offer striking views of the Eiffel Tower; the best has a giant bull’s-eye window. Lower-floor rooms have good, but less spectacular, balcony views. •

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MAP N4 15 Quai St-Michel, 75005 01 43 54 81 16 www.rivesde notredame.com €€ The views of Notre-Dame Family-Friendly from this 10-room Latin Quarter hotel are arguably Hotels the best in Paris. The Hôtel des Arts spacious and airy rooms feature charming wooden MAP F2 7 Cité Bergère, 6 Rue du Faubourg ceiling beams. Montmartre, 75009 Terrass Hôtel 01 42 46 73 30 www. MAP E1 12–14 Rue hoteldesarts.fr € Joseph de Maistre, 75018 This hotel is great for 01 46 06 72 85 www. families on a budget, terrass-hotel.com €€ with triple rooms and cots Located in Montmartre, available. It’s tucked away the Terrass has fabulous in the Grand Boulevards views over the city from district – home to many its rooftop bar and resrestaurants and shops. taurant. All the bedrooms Ibis Paris Bastille are stylish and modern, Faubourg Saint but the best rooms Antoine and suites look over MAP H5 13 Rue treetops and rooftops Trousseau, 75011 01 to the Eiffel Tower. 48 05 55 55 www.ibis. Hôtel Régina com € MAP K1 2 Pl des A popular budget option, Pyramides, 75001 01 42 this hotel in the Ibis 60 31 10 www.reginachain is a five-minute hotel.com/en €€€ walk from the bustling Across the Rue de Rivoli Marché d’Aligre. Triple from the Louvre, with rooms and smartly views of the museum designed duplex rooms and the Tuileries, this are perfect for families. •

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MAP K2 19 Quai Voltaire, 75007 01 42 61 50 91 www.quaivoltaire.fr No air conditioning €€ Impressionist artist Camille Pissarro (1830– 1903) painted the view of the Seine and Notre-Dame visible from most of the guest rooms here. Rooms are small, but the warm welcome and the location make up for that. •

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old hotel has been used as a backdrop for a number of films. The rooms are elegantly decorated and there’s a terrace for alfresco dining. The bar is reminiscent of Victorian England, with its oak panelling and plush sofas.

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Places to Stay ❮❮ 177 Yooma Urban Lodge MAP B5 51 Quai de Grenelle, 75015 01 44 09 00 13 www.yoomahotels.com € A 15-minute riverside walk from the Eiffel Tower, this fun, modern hotel has colourful, wellpriced bedrooms that can accommodate up to six people. Cooking classes for the entire family can be organized, and remote child monitoring is available, too, so parents can have a night out. •

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children, including baby kits with cots, bottle warmers and anti-slip mats for the bathrooms.

good facilities and a friendly, helpful ambience. Rooms as well as suites are elegant.

Relais St-Germain

Medium-Priced Hotels

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Gardette Park Hotel MAP H4 1 Rue du Général Blaise, 75011 01 47 00 57 93 www. hotelgardettepark.com €€ The tastefully decorated junior suites at this hotel, on a leafy square with a playground, accommodate up to four people. There are plenty of resturants nearby and the Marais is a short walk away. •

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MAP L4 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006 01 44 27 07 97 www.hotel-parisrelais-saint-germain.com €€ A delightful 17th-century property, this St-Germaindes-Prés townhouse hotel has rooms and familyfriendly suites dedicated to famous writers. The Louvre, Musée d’Orsay and Notre-Dame cathedral are all within walking distance, as is the Jardin du Luxembourg, with its sailboats and playground. Babysitting can be arranged. •

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MAP E2 60 Rue Richer, 75009 01 53 24 98 98 www.residencenell.com €€ The 17 chic, understated apartments and suites Hôtel St-Jacques in this handsomely MAP N5 35 Rue des renovated building range Ecoles, 75005 01 44 07 from studios to luxury 45 45 www.paris-hotel- living spaces and each stjacques.com €€ has a kitchenette so Numerous Left Bank families can stock up attractions are within at the grocery shops and walking distance of this bakeries nearby. Large comfortable hotel with families should ask for triple-bed rooms and cots adjoining suites. available. The ToulouseSofitel Paris Lautrec Bar serves Baltimore Tour excellent cocktails. •

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MAP N5 44 Rue Jacob, 75006 01 42 60 34 72 www.hotel-dangleterre. com No air conditioning €€ Hemingway once stayed at this hotel. Most of the rooms have high ceilings, and some are furnished with antiques. Standard rooms can be on the small side, but more spacious superior rooms can be reserved at an extra cost. •

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Hôtel de Banville 166 Blvd Berthier, 75017 01 42 67 70 16 www.hotelbanville.fr €€ This wonderful 1927 mansion may be away from the centre but it blends old-world charm with contemporary furnishings in a very modern and stylish way. Once a month on Thursdays, there is live music in the hall. Several bedrooms have balconies. •

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Hôtel de l’Abbaye MAP K5 10 Rue Cassette, 75006 01 45 44 38 11 www.hotel abbayeparis.com €€ This delightful, quiet hotel, in a 16th-century former convent, is set around a leafy cobbled courtyard near St-Sulpice. It is perfect for exploring much of the Left Bank, and is a haven to return to. The 44 rooms are all different. The top-floor suites have rooftop views. •

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MAP B3 88 bis, Ave MAP M2 19 Rue des Kléber, 75016 01 44 34 Prêtres-St-Germain54 54 www.sofitel.com €€ l’Auxerrois, 75001 01 40 41 96 42 www.relais Part of the Accor hotel dulouvre.com €€ chain and located in the Right by the Louvre, this most beautiful district, great family hotel offers between the Trocadéro several family suites and and the Arc de Triomphe, connecting rooms, as well this boutique hotel caters as a host of extras for well for families, with •

Hôtel d’Angleterre

For a key to hotel price categories see p172

178 ❯❯ Streetsmart Hôtel des Trois Poussins MAP E1 15 Rue Clauzel, 75009 01 53 32 81 81 www.les3poussins.com €€ This hotel is in the Pigalle area but well away from the sleazier side of the district. Some rooms are small, but the higher up they are, the better the view of the city becomes. The decor is modern with warm colours and each room has a quirky artwork on the wall. •

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close to the Latin Quarter and the Marais, this hotel combines sleek modern design and high-tech facilities with the odd old beam or stone wall.

Budget Hotels Generator Hostel MAP E2 9-11 Pl du Colonel Fabien, 75010 01 70 98 84 00 www. staygenerator.com € With attractive options for budget travellers looking for a more grownup vibe, Paris’s Generator hostel has it all. A great location, private rooms and a number of dining options make it a good choice for solo travellers. •

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MAP M5 43 Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, 75006 01 43 26 98 64 www. hotelsaintpaulparis.com €€ This 17th-century building features antique furniture, beamed ceilings and even some four-poster beds. Several rooms have great Henriette Hôtel Jeanne d’Arc 9 Rue des Gobelins, 75013 views over Paris and the 3 Rue de Jarente, 75004 Metro Les Gobelins Sorbonne. Breakfast is Metro St-Paul 01 48 01 47 07 26 90 www. served in a cellar with 87 62 11 www.hotel hotelhenriette.com € a vaulted ceiling. jeannedarc.com No On a quiet street close La Régence air conditioning €€ to many Left Bank sights, Visitors could easily spend Etoile Hôtel this relaxed, family-friendly a whole weekend in Paris MAP B2 24 Ave Carnot, hotel has smartly deco75017 01 58 05 42 42 without wandering far rated, modern bedrooms www.hotelregence from this charming, welland a sunny inner courtequipped hotel, surrounded etoile.com €€ yard for breakfasts. as it is by the many Marais Very reasonably priced Hôtel Arvor district attractions. considering its standard Saint-Georges of luxury and its location Hôtel le Senat MAP E2 8 Rue Laferrière, (just a short walk away MAP M5 10 Rue de from the Arc de Triomphe), 75009 01 48 78 60 92 hotelarvor.com No Vaugirard, 75006 01 the Régence Etoile 43 54 54 54 www.hotel features handsome public air conditioning € senat.com €€ spaces with classic decor This boutique hotel at the Just a few steps away foot of Montmartre has and plush modern bedfrom the Jardin de comfortable rooms, many rooms with plasma TVs, Luxembourg, this small mini-bars as well as safes. boasting views across modern hotel is smartly Paris. Two-room suites, Le Citizen decorated in cheerul one in the attic and one colours. Some rooms can MAP H2 96 Quai de opening onto a small patio, Jenmapes, 75010 01 83 are suitable for families. accommodate families 62 55 50 www.lecitizen and the two duplex Hôtel Chopin hotel.com €€ terrace suites on the top MAP F2 46 Passage This modern eco-hotel floors have fantastic is within walking distance Jouffroy, 75009 01 47 70 panoramic views. of Place de la Republique, 58 10 www.hotelchopin. Hôtel Notre-Dame fr No air conditioning € Gare du Nord and Gare Paris Maître Albert This characterful, historic de l’Est. It boasts views MAP N5 19 Rue Maître over Canal St-Martin. hotel dating from 1846 Albert, 75005 01 43 has rooms with plenty of Each of the 12 rooms 26 79 00 www.hotelcharm. Top-floor rooms and suites offers guests notredame-charmeparis. a complimentary minibar have picture-perfect roofcom €€ and use of an iPad. There top views, while others Situated in a quiet street is a wide choice of restau- overlook the atmospheric opposite Notre-Dame, Passage Jouffroy. rants nearby, too. •

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Places to Stay ❮❮ 179 Hôtel de Nesle MAP L4 7 Rue de Nesle, 75006 01 43 54 62 41 www.hoteldenesleparis. com € Centrally located, this atmospheric hotel, com­ plete with a large courtyard garden, is colourfully decorated with murals and vintage wallpaper. Not all rooms are en­suite. •

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Forum des Halles. The cosy, cheerful rooms all have free Wi­Fi.

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Hôtel Familia MAP P6 11 Rue des Ecoles, 75005 01 43 54 55 27 www.familia hotel.com € This good­value option in the heart of the Latin Quarter is a friendly hotel housed in an 1865 building within walking distance of many landmarks. The best rooms have a charming wrought­iron balcony. •

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in this budget hotel, well­placed in the heart of Montmartre and just minutes away on foot from Sacré­Coeur. The amenities are basic, but the stunning views of the Eiffel Tower from the upper floors are priceless.

Le Caulaincourt Square Hostel

2 Square Caulaincourt, 75018 01 46 06 46 06 www.caulaincourt.com No air conditioning € This is one part budget Hôtel Joyce hotel, one part hostel, MAP E2 29 Rue la with a warm, friendly Bruyère, 75009 01 55 atmosphere and easy 07 00 01 www.astotel. access to the sights of com € Montmartre. It is just Located at the crossroads a few minutes’ walk of the theatre district, to Moulin Rouge and Place St Georges and Sacré­Coeur. South Pigalle, this wittily L’Ermitage Sacrédecorated modern hotel Hôtel des Grandes has a fresh, informal feel Coeur Ecoles and well­equipped rooms MAP E1 24 Rue MAP P6 75 Rue du Lamarck, 75018 06 with organic toiletries. Cardinal Lemoine, 75005 Room rates include a good­ 12 49 05 15 www. 01 43 26 79 23 www. value buffet breakfast. ermitagesacrecoeur.fr No credit cards No en.hoteldesgrandes Hôtel Le Clos Médicis air conditioning € ecoles.com No air MAP M5 56 Rue conditioning € A wonderful family­run A secret hideaway in a Monsieur-le-Prince, 75006 hotel in Montmartre. 01 43 29 10 80 www. Some rooms have views lovely part of Paris, the three buildings that make closmedicis.com € over the city, others This was built in 1773 for overlook a garden, up this 51­room family­ the Médici family; historic and the furniture is run hotel are set around a beautiful garden. Floral features now seamlessly antique or retro. wallpaper abounds in the combine with modern design. Rooms are small, Mama Shelter East reasonably sized rooms, 109 Rue de Bagnolet, but compensations are which have a country 75020 Metro Gambetta cottage feel. The location the garden, bar, and the 01 43 48 48 48 www. location, in a quiet street is perfect for exploring mamashelter.com € off Boulevard St­Michel. the Latin Quarter. Created by world­famous Hôtel du Cygne Hôtel Regyn’s designer Philippe Starck, MAP N1 3–5 Rue du Montmartre this hotel close to Père Cygne, 75001 01 42 60 14 MAP E1 18 Pl des Lachaise cemetery offers 16 www.hotelducygne.fr Abbesses, 75018 01 ultra­stylish yet affordable No air conditioning € 42 54 45 21 www.paris- rooms. The lively restau­ This lovely hotel is housed hotels-montmartre.com rant is very popular, and No air conditioning € there’s a rooftop sundeck in a restored late­17th­ century building, just five Colourful decor livens offering panoramic views minutes’ walk away from up the smallish rooms of the city.

MAP Q3 42 bis Rue de Rivoli, 75004 01 42 78 55 29 www. hoteldenice.com No air conditioning € A ten­minute walk to Notre­Dame cathedral, and even less to the shops and cafés of the Marais, this quirky small hotel with antique furnishings has a romantic, 19th­ century charm. •

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180 ❯❯ General Index

General Index Page numbers in bold refer to Top 10 Highlights.

A

Abadie, Paul 27 Accommodation 171 apartments 73, 171 bed-and-breakfast 73, 171 budget tips 73 camping 171 hotels see Hotels Air, arriving by 164 Airports 164 Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée 67, 117 Alexander III, Czar 112 Alexander III, Pope 20 Alphand, Adolphe 57 Ambulances 169 André, Edouard 51, 113 Anne of Austria 15 Antin, Duke of 115 Apollinaire, Guillaume 131, 148 Aquarium de Paris 141 Aquinas, Thomas 125 Aragon, Louis 131 Arc de Triomphe 11, 30–31, 113 Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel 31, 103 Arènes de Lutèce 136, 137 Argonaute 60 Arpège 67, 123 Art galleries 52–3 Marais and the Bastille 97 see also Museums and galleries Art Nouveau 18 Assemblée Nationale 121 L’Astrance 66, 145 L’Atelier de Jöel Robuchon 67 Aurouze 88 Avenue des ChampsElysées 30, 111, 114, 115 Avenue Montaigne 112, 113, 114 Avril, Jane 17, 148, 152

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Bacon, Roger 125 Baker, Josephine 64

Balzac, Honoré de 131, 156 Maison de Balzac 143 Le Père Goriot 48 Barge cruise 58–9 Barnes, Djuna 68 Bars 68–9 beer bars 90 late-night bars 130 St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters 130 wine bars 69 Bashkirtseff, Marie 144 Bastien-Lepage, Jules 18 Bastille Market 70 Bastille prison see Marais and the Bastille; Revolution Baudelaire, Charles 68, 156 The Beatles 152 Beaubourg and Les Halles 84–91 beer bars 90 food shops 89 places to eat 88, 91 shopping 88, 90 De Beauvoir, Simone 68, 131, 156, 160 Bechet, Sidney 126 Beckett, Samuel 45, 156, 160 Beer bars 90 Bercy Village 59 Berges de Seine 72 Berlioz, Hector 39, 147 Bernhardt, Sarah 65 Bird markets 70, 79 Boats 167 barge cruise 58–9 Batobus 167 Ferries 167 riverboat 167 Bois de Boulogne 56, 156, 157, 159 Bois de Vincennes 56, 59, 74, 156, 157 Le Bon Marché 71 Bonnard, Pierre 18 Books booksellers 82, 128 foreign writers 45 historical novels 48–9 literary haunts 131 Botanical Gardens see Jardin des Plantes Bouchard, Henri 141

Bouchardon, Edmé 57 Boucher, François 15, 51, 113 Boulevard St-Germain 126, 127 Boulevard St-Michel 126–7 Bourdelle, Antoine 25 Bourse de Commerce – Collection Pinault 85 Braille, Louis 35 Brancusi, Constantin 33 Braque, Georges 73, 142, 150 Man with a Guitar 33 Breton, André 68 Bridges Pont Alexandre III 55, 111 Pont de l’Alma 54, 114 Pont d’léna 54 Pont Neuf 80 Brosse, Salomon de 47 Le Brun, Charles 21 Budget tips 73 Buffon, Comte de 135 Buren, Daniel 57 Buses 165 budget tips 73 travellers with specific requirements Buttes-aux-Cailles 59

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Cabarets 152 Café de Flore 68, 126, 127, 131 Café Campana 17, 127 Café Marly 13, 68 Café de la Paix 68 Cafés 68–9 set-priced lunch 73 Caffè Sterne 69 Calder, Alexander 121 Calvin, John 125 Cameron, Julia Margaret 18 Camondo, Count Moïse de 59 Camping 171 Camus, Albert 45, 68, 131 Canals barge cruise 58–9 Capet, Hugues 42 Capote, Truman 131 Car, arriving by 166 Car rental 166 Carette 68-69 Carnet 73

General Index ❮❮ 181 Cartaud, Jean Sylvain 122 Cassatt, Mary 19 Catacombs 58 Catherine de’Medici 15, 42, 103 Cemeteries Cimetière de Montmartre 147, 150 Cimetière du Montparnasse 156, 1 60 Cimetière de Passy 141, 143, 144 Cimetière du Père Lachaise 73, 156, 160 Cimetière St-Vincent 149 notable graves 73, 144, 160 Le Centquatre-Paris 59 Centre Georges Pompidou 11, 32–3, 53, 86, 87 free entry 72 Stravinsky fountain 57 Chagall, Marc 73, 105, 142 Chaillot Quarter 140–45 restaurants 145 Chalgrin, Jean-François 49 Champ-de-Mars 25 Champaigne, Philippe de 85 Champs-Elysées 30, 111, 114, 115 Champs-Elysées Quarter 110–117 designer shops 116 events 115 international connections 114 places to eat 117 shopping 112, 113, 116 Charlemagne, Emperor 42 Charles V, King 12, 15, 47, 94 Charles VIII, King 36 Château de Longchamp 159 Château de Vincennes 156, 157 Chevalier, Maurice 64 Chez Jeannette 69 Children 60–61 Disneyland Paris 60, 155 Chopin, Frédéric 73, 156, 160 Churches 46–7 Dôme Church 38, 39, 46, 55 Eglise St-Merry 86 La Madeleine 46, 105

Churches (cont.) Notre-Dame see NotreDame Panthéon 11, 34–5, 46 Sacré-Coeur 10, 26–7, 149 Sainte-Chapelle 8, 11, 36–7, 46, 81 St-Eustache 46–7, 73, 85, 87, 88 St-Germain l’Auxerrois 86 St-Louis-en-l’Ile 81 St-Médard 137 St-Sulpice 49, 125 Cimetière de Montmartre 147, 150 Cimetière du Montparnasse 156, 160 Cimetière de Passy 141, 143, 144 Cimetière du Père Lachaise 73, 156, 160 Cimetière St-Vincent 149 Le Cirque d’Hiver 64 Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine 51, 141–2 Cité des Enfants 60 Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie 60, 156 La Closerie des Lilas 68, 161 Clubs jazz 65 Montmartre and Pigalle 152 Le Cobusier 142 Colbert, Jean-Baptiste 85, 137 Colette 156, 160 Comédie-Française 65, 104, 122 Commune see Paris Commune Concessions 73 Conciergerie 44, 55, 79 La Coupole 45, 131 Coustou, Guillaume 12, 15 Coustou, Nicolas 21 COVID-19 171 Coysevox, Antoine 21 Le Crazy Horse Paris 64 Crime 168, 169 Crypte Archéologique 79, 81 Customs 168 Cycling bicycle hire 167 guided tours 167 races 74

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Dali, Salvador 68, 147, 150 Dalí Paris 147, 149, 150 Dalí Paris 147, 149, 150 Dante 125 Danton, Georges Jacques 43 Dassin, Joe 113 Daumier, Honoré 18 David Toutain restaurant 67, 123 Debray, Pierre-Charles 149 Debussy, Claude 144 La Défense 154, 155 Degas, Edgar 18, 19, 150 Blue Dancers 18 Young Dancer of Fourteen 16 Delacroix, Eugene 14, 18, 49, 125, 156 Denis, St 151 Dentists 168 Designer shops 112, 116 Desmarnes, Charlotte 122 Les Deux Magots 68, 126, 127, 131 Diana, Princess of Wales 54, 114 Dickens, Charles 48, 114 Diderot, Denis 35 Dietrich, Marlene 114 Dining see Cafés; Restaurants Disneyland Paris 60, 155 Dôme Church 38, 39, 46, 55 Domestic train travel 164 Donatello 14 Drag artists 152 Driving 166 Driving licence 166 Dufy, Raoul 142, 150 Dumas, Alexandre 147

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Eating-out see Cafés; Restaurants Ecole Militaire 120–21 Eglise de Dôme 38, 39, 46, 55 Eglise St-Merry 86 Eiffel, Gustave 24, 25, 71 Eiffel Tower 10, 24–5, 60, 121, 143 merry-go-round 61 see also Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters Electrical appliances 170 Emmanuel de Las Cases, Comte 144 Emergencies 169

182 ❯❯ General Index Entertainment budget tips 73 cabarets 152 clubs 65, 152 festivals 75 jazz 65, 74, 126, 152 venues 64–5 Epstein, Jacob 160

Free first Sunday of the month 72 French Revolution see Revolution French Tennis Open 75

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Gabriel, Jacques-Ange 120 Galerie Vivienne and Galerie Colbert 104, 105 Galeries Lafayette 70 Farman, Henri 144 Galleries see Art galleries; Fauré, Gabriel 144 Museums and galleries Fernandel 144 Gardens see Parks and Ferries 167 gardens Festival d’Automne à Paris Garnier, Charles 68, 104, 75 173 Festival de Cinéma en Gauguin, Paul 18, 157 Plein Air 72 La Belle Angèle 17 Festivals and events 74–5 De Gaulle, Charles 22, 23, Fête du Cinéma 74 39, 86, 115 Fête de la Musique 74 Gehry, Frank 53, 156 Fêtes des Vendanges 75 Geneviève, Ste 34, 35, 42, Film 16, 68, 72, 73, 74 125 Fitzgerald, F. Scott 45, 131 Géode 60, 156 Flaubert, Gustave 48 Flower markets 70, 79, 81 Géricault, Théodore The Raft of the Medusa Foch, Marshal Ferdinand 39, 142 13 Folies-Bergère 64 Gide, André 131 Fondation Louis Vuitton 53, Gill, André 148 156, 159 Goujon, Jean 57, 86 Fontaine des Innocents 57, Grand Palais 56, 111 86, 87 Grande Arche 31, 155 Fontenay, Aubert de 96 Grande Galerie de Food and drink see Bars; l’Evolution 60, 135 Cafés; Food shops; Grande Mosquée de Paris Restaurants 49, 136, 137 Food shops Grande Synagogue de la Beaubourg and Les Victoire 49 Halles 90 Grandes Eaux Nocturnes picnic providers 132 74 specialist food shops Graves 73, 144, 160 see also Cemeteries 129 Greater Paris 154–61 St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters Gris, Juan 150 Gros, Antoine 31 129, 132 Guillotine 80 Tuileries and Opéra Guillotine, Dr Joseph 80 Quarters 106 Guimard, Hector 49, 149 Football 75, 115 Guimet, Emile 143 Forum des Halles 85 Fosse, Charles de la 38 H Foucault, Jean 35 Foucault’s Pendulum 35 Les Halles see Beaubourg Fountains 57, 86, 125, 155 and Les Halles Fragonard, Jean-Honoré Hals, Frans 14 14, 51, 113 Hardouin-Mansart, Jules Franco-Prussian War 26, 104 27, 43 Haussmann, Baron 43, 57, François I, King 12, 15, 125 113, 119, 126, 159 François II, King 22 Health 168

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Hemingway, Ernest 45, 68, 131, 177 Henri II, King 15, 42 Henri IV (Henry of Navarre), King 22, 42, 44, 79, 86 Louvre 15, 55 Place Dauphine 80 Place des Vosges 72, 92, 93 Pont Neuf 80 Square du Vert-Galant 81 Henry VI, King of England 22 Hérouard, Jean 135 Hippodrome de Longchamp 159 Historic buildings 44–5 Historical events 42–3 Historical novels 48–9 Hitler, Adolf 43 Horse-racing 75, 159 Hospitals 168 Hôtel Dieu 44 Hôtel des Invalides 11, 38–9, 119, 121, 142 Hôtel de Ville 44, 61, 72 Hotels 172–9 boutique hotels 172 budget hotels 178–9 budget tips 73 family-friendly hotels 176–7 great locations 174–5 luxury hotels 172–3 medium-priced hotels 177–8 romantic hotels 174 rooms with a view 175–6 Hugo, Victor 23, 49, 136 The Hunchback of NotreDame 23, 48 Maison de Victor Hugo 95 Les Misérables 48, 95 tomb 35

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Ignatius Loyola, St 125 Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis 78–83 Ile de la Cité and Ile places to eat 83 shopping 82 Impressionists 18, 19, 127 Institut du Monde Arabe 135, 137 Insurance 168 International train travel 164

General Index ❮❮ 183 Late-night bars 130 Latin Quarter see St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters Leck, Bart van der 33 Compositie n°3 33 Lefèbvre, Hippolyte 27 Left Bank 126 J see also St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Jacquemart, Nélie 51, 113 Quarters Jardin d’Acclimatation 61, Legentil, Alexandre 26 159 Jardin du Luxembourg 56, Léger, Fernand 142 Leonardo da Vinci 14, 15 61, 125 Mona Lisa 12, 15 Jardin du Palais-Royal 57 Leroux, Gaston 105 Jardin des Plantes 56, 61, Lescot, Pierre 86 135, 137, 138 Jardin des Plantes Quarter Liberty Flame 54 Le Lido 64 134–9 Literature see Books restaurants 139 Jardin du Pré Catelan 159 Local customs 171 Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil Long-distance bus travel 166 159 Jardin des Tuileries 56, 61, Louis IX, King (St Louis) 27, 81 103, 104, 105, 108–9 Notre-Dame 23 Jardins du Trocadéro 54, Palais de Justice 47 61, 142 Sainte-Chapelle 11, 36, Jazz 152 37 clubs 65 Louis, Victor 104 festival 75 Louis XI, King 37 Left Bank 126 Louis XIII, King 21, 47, 135 Jean-François Piège – Louvre 15, 55 Le Grand Restaurant Notre-Dame 21 66, 107 Louis XIV, King Jeu de Paume 53, 103 Louvre 12, 13, 15 Jewish Quarter 94 Notre-Dame 21 Joan of Arc 22, 23, 27 Palais Bourbon 38 Josephine, Empress 22, Palais-Royal 47 113 Place Vendôme 104 Les Journées du Versailles 44, 155, 158 Patrimoine 73 Louis XV, King 34, 47, 103, Joyce, James 45, 131 120 Le Jules Verne 66, 121, Louis XVI, King 104 123, 143 execution 43, 103 K Versailles 44 Louvre museum see Kandinsky, Vasily 33 Musée du Louvre Avec l’arc noir 33 Luxembourg Quarter see Klimt, Gustav 18 St-Germain, Latin and Kundera, Milan 45 Luxembourg Quarters Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters 118–23 Hôtel des Invalides 11, 38–9, 119, 121, 142 mansions 122 places to eat 123 see also Eiffel Tower

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The Lady and the Unicorn 50, 126 Lalique, René-Jules 18 Laloux, Victor 55 Lang, Jack 115 Language 171 Au Lapin Agile 148, 150, 152

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Maar, Dora 68 MacLeish, Archibald 68 La Madeleine 46, 105 Madonna 114 Maillol, Aristide 56, 103 Musée Maillol 53, 127 Maison de Balzac 143

Maison Européenne de la Photographie 53, 95 Maison de Victor Hugo 95 Manet, Edouard 18, 19, 150 Le Dejeuner sur l’herbe 16 grave 144 Nana 45 Olympia 16 On the Beach 19 Mansart, François 96 Mansions Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters 122 Marais and the Bastille 96 La Manufacture des Gobelins 137 Marais and the Bastille 47, 49, 92–101 Bastille Market 70 Bastille prison 42, 43, 48, 94 fashion and accessory shops 98 fashionable hang-outs 100 galleries 97 mansions 96 places to eat 101 specialist shops 99 Marat, Jean-Paul 43 Marathon 75 Marceau, General 31 Marché d’Aligre 71 Marché aux Fleurs – Reine Elisabeth II 70, 79, 81 Marché aux Oiseaux 70 Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen 71 Marguerite de Valois 22, 86, 96 Marie-Antoinette, Queen Conciergerie 44, 79 execution 43, 103 Versailles 44, 158 Marie de Médicis 47, 57, 115 Markets 70–71 Marly Horses 12, 14 Marmottan, Paul 157 La Marseillaise 112 Mary Stuart 22 Mason, Raymond 88 Mata Hari 114 Matisse, Henri 18 Maupassant, Guy de 156 Bel-Ami 48 Mauriac, François 131

184 ❯❯ General Index Médard, St 137 Médici Fountain 57 Medium-priced hotels 177–8 Ménagerie 135 Merci 71 Merry-go-rounds 61 Merson, Luc Olivier 26 Michelangelo, Slaves 12, 14 Miller, Henry 45, 131 Mirbeau, Octave 144 Miró, Joan 121 Mitford, Nancy 45 Mobile phones 170 Modigliani, Amedeo 52, 73, 142, 150 Le Moiturier, Antoine 14 Molière 57, 93, 156 Mona Lisa 12, 15 Monastier, Jacques 85 Monet, Claude 19 Blue Waterlilies 16 Cathedral at Rouen 19 Musée de l’Orangerie 52, 103 Musée Marmottan Monet 19, 157 Musée d’Orsay 18 Money 170 Montaigne, Avenue 112, 113 Montmartre and Pigalle 7, 61, 146–53 artists 150 cabarets and clubs 152 escape the crowds 151 places to eat 153 Sacré-Coeur 10, 26–7, 149 vineyards 149 Montparnasse 156 Moreau, Gustave 151 Morisot, Berthe 18, 144 Morrison, Jim 73, 114, 156, 160 Moulin de la Galette 149 Moulin Rouge 64–5, 148, 149, 152 Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus 96 Munch, Edvard 18 Musée des Egouts 119 Musée d’Orsay 6, 10, 16–19, 55, 127 bookshop 128 free entry 72 Toulouse-Lautrec display 64, 148

Musée du Louvre 10, 12–15, 50, 55 free entry 72, 73 little-visited Louvre 58 planning your visit 105 Pyramid 7, 12, 40 Museums and galleries 50–51 Arc de Triomphe 30 art galleries 52–3, 97 budget tips 73 Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine 51, 141–2 Dalí Paris 147, 149, 150 Fondation Louis Vuitton 53, 156, 159 free entry 72 free first Sunday of the month 72 Galerie Vivienne and Galerie Colbert 104, 105 Grand Palais 56, 111 Grande Galerie de l’Evolution 60, 135 Halle Saint Pierre 151 Jeu de Paume 53, 103 Maison de Balzac 143 Maison Européenne de la Photographie 53, 95 Maison de Victor Hugo 95 Musée de l’Armée 38, 50 119, 121 Musée d’Art Moderne see Centre Georges Pompidou Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris 73, 142 Musée des Arts Décoratifs 50, 104 Musée des Arts et Métiers 51 Musée des Arts Forains 61 Musée des Beaux Arts de la Ville de Paris 72 Musée Carnavalet 94 Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature 94 Musée Cognacq-Jay 93 Musée Gustave Moreau 151 Musée de l’Homme 142 Musée JacquemartAndré 51, 113 Musée du Louvre see Musée du Louvre Musée de la Magie et des Automates 60

Museums and galleries (cont.) Musée Maillol 53, 127 Musée Marmottan Monet 19, 157 Musée de la Mode et du Textile 50, 104 Musée des Monuments Français 51 Musée de Montmartre 147, 149 Musée National d’Art Moderns 53 Musée National des Arts Asiatiques-Guimet 143 Musée National du Moyen Age 50, 126 Musée Nissim de Camondo 59 Musée de l’Orangerie 52, 103 Musée de l’Ordre de la Libération 39, 119 Musée d’Orsay see Musée d’Orsay Musée Picasso 52, 93 Musée des Plans-Reliefs 39, 119 Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac 50, 120, 121 Musée Rodin 52, 72, 120, 121, 122 Musée de la Vie Romantique 151 Musée du Vin 142 Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle 50, 135, 137 museum pass 73 opening hours 170, 171 Palais de la Découverte 112 Palais de Tokyo 53 Parc de la Villette 60, 61, 72, 156 Pavillon de l’Arsenal 58 Music festivals 75 jazz 65, 74, 126, 152

N

Nabis Movement 18 Napoleon I, Emperor 122, 141, 144 Arc de Triomphe 11, 30, 31, 115 Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel 31, 103

General Index ❮❮ 185 Palais de Justice 47, 80 Palais de Tokyo 53 Palais du Luxembourg 47 Palais-Royal 47, 57, 104 Panthéon 11, 34–5, 46 Parc Astérix 60 Parc de Bagatelle 159 Parc des ButtesChaumont 57, 61 Parc Floral de Paris 59 Parc Monceau 56–7, 61, 157 Parc Montsouris 57 Parc de la Villette 60, 61, 72, 156 Paris Commune 43, 44, 94, 104 Paris Jazz Festival 74 Paris Marathon 75 Paris Plages 75 La Parisienne 75 Parisii tribe 42 Parking 166 Parks and gardens 56–7 Bois de Boulogne 56, 156, 157, 159 Bois de Vincennes 56, 59, 156, 157 Champ-de-Mars 25 Jardin du Luxembourg 56, 61, 125 Jardin du Palais-Royal 57 Jardin des Plantes 56, 61, 135, 137, 138 Jardin du Pré Catelan 159 Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil 159 O Jardin des Tuileries 56, 61, 103, 105 Off the beaten track 58–9 Jardins du Trocadéro 54, Offenbach, Jacques 147 61, 142 Opening hours 170, 171 Parc de Bagatelle 159 Opéra National de Paris Parc des ButtesBastille 65 Chaumont 57, 61 Opéra National de Paris Parc Floral de Paris 59 Garnier 62–3, 64, 104–5 Parc Monceau 56–7, 61, Opéra Quarter see 157 Tuileries and Opéra Parc Montsouris 57 Quarters Shakespeare Garden 159 L’Orangerie 52, 103 Square du Vert-Galant 81 Organ and Choir recitals 73 Versailles 57, 158 Orléans, dukes of 47, 104 The Passages 94 Orwell, George 45 Passports 168 P Pavillon de l’Arsenal 58 Pei, I.M. 12 Palais Bourbon 38 Pepin the Short 42 Palais de Chaillot 56, 141, Père Lachaise cemetery 143 73, 156, 160 Palais de l’Elysée 47, 113

Napoleon I, Emperor (cont.) Champs-Elysées 111, 113 Châtelet Fountain 57 coronation 43 Ecole Miiitaire 120 Eglise du Dôme 46 Musée du Louvre 12 Notre-Dame 22, 23 Palais de l’Elysée 47 Place Vendôme 104 Rue de Rivoli 103 La Sorbonne 125 tomb 11, 38, 46, 121 Napoleon III, Emperor 43, 113 Franco-Prussian War 27 Opéra National de Paris Garnier 104 Palais de l’Elysée 113 Naturalism 18 Nicholas, Albert 126 Nicolas II, Czar 12 Nijinsky, Vaslav 147 Nin, Anaïs 45 North Africa 136 Le Nôtre, Andre 103, 111, 115 Notre-Dame 10, 20–23, 55, 81 organ and choir recitals 73 views 28–9, 76–7 Nouvel, Jean 50, 118, 120, 135 Novels 48–9 Nuit Blanche 74

Perrault, Claude 13 Personal security 168 Pétanque 57, 121 Petit Palais 56, 72, 110, 112 Pharmacies 168 Philip IV, King (Philip the Fair) 22, 79 Philippe-Auguste, King 12 Piaf, Edith 156, 160 Piano, Renzo 32 Picabia, Francis 142 Picasso, Pablo 58, 73, 142, 150 Au Lapin Agile 148, 152 Les Deux Magots 68 Musée de l’Orangerie 52 Musée Maillol 127 Musée Picasso 52, 93 UNESCO headquarters 121 Picnic providers 132 Pierre Gagnaire 67, 117 Pigalle see Montmartre and Pigalle Pissarro, Camille 19, 175 Pius VII, Pope 22 Place Charles de Gaulle 112 Place des Abbesses 149 Place de la Bastille 94, 95 Place de la Concorde 103, 105, 120 Place de la Contrescarpe 136, 137 Place Dauphine 80 Place de la Madeleine 70–71, 73, 105 Place du Tertre 7, 147, 149 Place Vendôme 104 Place des Vosges 72, 92, 93, 95 Places to eat see Cafés; Restaurants Places of worship 46–7 Point Zéro 78 Police 168, 169 Pommier, Albert 141 Pompadour, Madame de 47, 120 Pompidou Centre see Centre Georges Pompidou Pompidou, Georges 86 Pont Alexandre III 55, 111 Pont-Aven School 18 Pont de l’Alma 54, 114 Pont d’Iéna 54 Pont Neuf 80 Post-Impressionists 18 Postal services 170

186 ❯❯ General Index Prévert, Jacques 131 Printemps 70 Prix de Diane Longines 75 Le Procope 131 Le Progrès 68 Promenade Plantée 58, 156 Proust, Marcel 114, 160 A la Recherche du Temps Perdu 48, 114 Public transport 164 Puget, Pierre 14 Puvis de Chavannes, Pierre 34

Q

Qatar Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe 75, 159 Quai de la Tournelle 127

R

Rabelais, François 136 Ravaillac, François 44, 79 Refunds 171 Rembrandt 14, 51, 58 Renoir, Pierre-Auguste 18, 19, 147, 150 Au Lapin Agile 148, 150, 152 Dancing at the Moulin de la Galette 17, 149 Musée Marmottan Monet 157 Musée de l’Orangerie 52 Musée d’Orsay 18 Le Relais de la Butte 69 Restaurants 66–7 Beaubourg and Les Halles 88, 91 budget tips 73 Chaillot Quarter 145 Champs-Elysées Quarter 117 fine dining 66–7 Greater Paris 161 Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis 83 Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters 123 Jardin des Plantes Quarter 139 Marais and the Bastille 101 Montmartre and Pigalle 153 picnic providers 132 set-priced lunch 73

Restaurants (cont.) St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters 133 Tuileries and Opéra Quarters 107 Revolution 42, 43, 47, 80, 94 bicentennial 115 Conciergerie 44, 55, 79 Council of the Five Hundred 121 The Marseillaise 112 Musée Carnavalet 94 Notre-Dame 23 novels 48 Panthéon 34, 46 La Sorbonne 125 storming of the Bastille 42, 43, 94 Richelieu, Cardinal 47, 93 Riverfront sights 54–5 Robespierre, Maximilien de 43 Rodin, Auguste 18, 122 Musée Rodin 52, 72, 120, 121, 122 Rogers, Richard 32 Rolling Stones 114 Romans 42, 79, 136, 151 Romanticism 18 Roosevelt, Franklin D. 114 Rosa Bonheur 160 Rouget de Lisle, Claude Joseph 112 Rousseau, Jean-Jacques 94 Rue Cler 120 Rue de Lappe 95 Rue de Rivoli 103, 105 Rue du Faubourg-StHonoré 112 Rue Montorgueil 86, 87 Rue Mouffetard 71, 134, 136, 137 Rugby 75

S

Sacré-Coeur 10, 26–7, 149 Safety 168 Sagan, Françoise 131 St Bartholomew’s Day Massacre 42, 86 Saint-Phalle, Niki de 33 Sainte-Chapelle 8, 11, 36–7, 46, 81 St-Eustache 46–7, 73, 85, 87, 88

St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters 125–33 booksellers 128 late-night bars 130 literary haunts 131 picnic providers 132 places to eat 133 shopping 128, 129, 132 specialist food shops 129 St-Germain l’Auxerrois 86 St-Louis-en-l’Ile 81 St-Médard 137 St-Sulpice 49, 125 Sand, George 151 Santos-Dumont, Alberto 114 Sartre, Jean-Paul 68, 131, 156, 160 Sax, Adolphe 112 Security 168, 169 Septime 66, 101 Sewers 119 Shakespeare and Company 45, 127, 128, 131 Shakespeare Garden 159 Shopping 70–71, 170 Beaubourg and Les Halles 88, 90 booksellers 82, 128 Champs-Elysées Quarter 112, 113, 116 designer shops 112, 116 fashion and accessory shops 98 food shops 89, 106, 129 Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis 82 Marais and the Bastille 98–9 markets 70–71 opening hours 170, 171 specialist shops 99, 129 St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters 128, 129, 132 Tuileries and Opéra Quarters 106 Sickert, Walter 19 Sisley, Alfred 19 Six Nations Rugby 75 La Sorbonne 47, 125 Soufflot, Jacques-Germain 115 Sports cycling 74, 75 events 75

General Index ❮❮ 187 Sports (cont.) football 75, 115 horse-racing 75, 159 marathon 75 rubgy 75 tennis 75 Square Suzanne Buisson 151 Square du Vert-Galant 81 Steinbeck, John 114 Stendhal 147 Stravinsky, Igor 32, 57 Sully, Bishop Maurice de 20 Sully, Duc de 96 Symbolism 18 Synagogues 49

T

Taillevent 66, 117 Taxes 171 Taxis 166 Tennis 75 Terroir, Alphonse 34 Théâtre du Châtelet 65 Théâtre de la Ville 65 Tickets and travel cards 165 Tiepolo, Giovanni Battista 113 Time zone 170 Tinguely, Jean 32 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier 30 Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de 18, 150 Jane Avril Dancing 17 Moulin Rouge 64, 148 Musée d’Orsay 64, 148 Tour de France 74, 75 Tour, Georges de la 14 Tour Jean Sans Peur 85 Tour St-Jacques 87 Trains domestic train travel 164 Eurostar 164 international train travel 164 metro 164, 165, 169 Orlyval 164 RER trains 164, 165 tickets 165 Travel 164–7 airports 164 arriving in Paris 164 budget tips 73 government advice 168 insurance 168 long-distance bus 166

Travel (cont.) metro 164, 165 tickets 165 trams 165 travel cards 165 travellers with specific requirements 169 walking 167 see also Boats; Buses; Cycling; Trains Travellers with specific requirements 169 Treaty of Versailles 157, 158 Truffaut, François 147 Tuileries and Opéra Quarters 102–7 food shops 106 Jardin des Tuileries 56, 61, 103, 104, 105, 108–9 places to eat 107 Tuileries Palace 43, 104

U

Uccello, Paolo 113 UNESCO 121 Utrillo, Maurice 149, 150, 151

V

Valadon, Suzanne 150 Van Gogh, Vincent 19, 149, 150 Bedroom at Arles 16–17 Musée d’Orsay 16, 18 Vanverbergh, François 114 Le Vau, Louis 81 Vauban, Marshal 39 Venus de Milo 12 Verlaine, Paul 68, 148, 152 Vermeer, Jan 14 The Lacemaker 13 Versailles 31, 44, 155, 157 fountains 57, 155 furnishings 137 gardens 57, 158 Grandes Eaux Nocturnes 74 menagerie 135 Petit Trianon 120, 158 Revolution 43 sights 158 Vierny, Dina 53, 127 Vineyards 149 Viollet-le-Duc, Eugène 20, 21, 23

Visas 168 Visitor information 169 Voltaire 11, 35, 94, 131

W

Walking 167 Watteau, Jean 14 Weather 170 Welles, Orson 16 Whistler, James 18, 19 Wi-Fi 170 Wilde, Oscar 68, 73, 156, 160 Wine bars 69 Winged Victory of Samothrace 12 World War II 68 Boulevard St-Michel 127 Jewish citizens 59, 94 Liberation 23, 43, 115 Liberty Flame 54 Order of Liberation 39 Palais Bourbon 121 the Resistance 43, 54, 151 Wren, Sir Christopher 34 Writers 48–9 literary haunts 131

Y

Youth savings 73

Z

Zola, Emile 84, 131 Nana 45 tomb 34 Zoos 56, 138, 156, 159 Ménagerie 135 Zurbarán, Francisco de 137

188 ❯❯ Acknowledgments

Acknowledgments Author

Donna Dailey and Mike Gerrard are awardwinning journalists, specializing in travel, food and wine and have written more than 30 guidebooks between them. Mike Gerrard’s Time for Food guide to Paris for Thomas Cook won the Benjamin Franklin Award for the best new guidebook in 2001. Their work has appeared in international publications such as the Times, Washington Post and Global Adventure. Additional contributors Ruth Reisenberger, M Astella Saw

Publishing Director Georgina Dee Publisher Vivien Antwi Design Director Phil Ormerod Editorial Michelle Crane, Rachel Fox,

Fay Franklin, Fíodhna Ní Ghríofa, Freddie Marriage, Sally Schafer, Christine Stroyan

Cover Design Maxine Pedliham, Vinita Venugopal

Design Tessa Bindloss, Richard Czapnik, Marisa Renzullo

Picture Research Phoebe Lowndes, Susie Peachey, Ellen Root, Oran Tarjan

Cartography Mohammad Hassan, Suresh

Kumar, Casper Morris, Simonetta Giori DTP Jason Little, George Nimmo Production Nancy-Jane Maun Factchecker Bryan Pirolli Proofreader Kate Berens Indexer Patricia Baker Illustrator Chris Orr & Associates Commissioned Photography Max Alexander, Neil Lukas, Eric Meacher, Rough Guides/Lydia Evans, Rough Guides/James McConnachie, Jules Selmes, Valerio Vincenzo, Peter Wilson.  Revisions Avanika, Hansa Babra, Parnika Bagla, Marta Bescos, Subhadeep Biswas, Anna Brooke, Aishwarya Gosain, Mohammad Hassan, Sumita Khatwani, Shikha Kulkarni, Bandana Paul, Kanika Praharaj, Rada Radojicic, Lucy Richards, Rohit Rojal, Ankita Sharma, Farah Sheikh, Azeem Siddiqui, Beverly Smart, Hollie Teague, Manjari Thakur, Priyanka Thakur, Stuti Tiwari Bhatia, Richa Verma, Åsa Westerlund, Tanveer Zaidi First edition created by Book Creation Services Ltd, London

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190 ❯❯ Phrase Book

Phrase Book In an Emergency Help! Au secours! oh sekoor Stop! Arrêtez! aret-ay Call… Appelez… apuh-lay …a doctor! …un médecin! uñ medsañ …an …une oon ambulance! ambulance! oñboo-loñs …the police! …la police! lah poh-lees …the fire …les leh poñ-peeyay brigade! pompiers!

Communication Essentials Yes/No Please Thank you Excuse me

Oui/Non S’il vous plaît Merci Excusez-moi

Hello Goodbye Good night What? When? Why? Where?

Bonjour Au revoir Bonsoir Quel, quelle? Quand? Pourquoi? Où?

wee/noñ seel voo play mer-see exkoo-zay mwah boñzhoor oh ruh-vwar boñ-swar kel, kel koñ poor-kwah oo

I would like … Je voudrais… zhuh voo-dray Do you take Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo credit cards? acceptez les zaksept-ay leh cartes de crédit? kart duh krehdee This one. Celui-ci. suhl-wee-see That one. Celui-là. suhl-wee-lah expensive cher shehr cheap pas cher, pah shehr, bon marché, boñ mar-shay size, clothes la taille tye size, shoes la pointure pwañ-tur

Types of Shop antique shop bakery bank bookshop cake shop cheese shop chemist department store delicatessen gift shop

Useful Phrases

greengrocer

Comment komallez-vous? moñ talay voo Very well, Très bien, treh byañ Pleased to Enchanté de oñshoñ-tay duh meet you. faire votre fehr votr konconnaissance. ay-sans Where is/are…? Où est/sont…? oo ay/soñ Which Quelle est la kel ay lah deerway to..? direction pour..? ek-syoñ poor Do you speak Parlez-vous par-lay voo English? anglais? oñg-lay I don’t Je ne compr- zhuh nuh komunderstand. ends pas. proñ pah I’m sorry. Excusez-moi. exkoo-zay mwah

grocery market newsagent

How are you?

Useful Words big small hot cold good bad open closed left right entrance exit toilet

grand petit chaud froid bon mauvais ouvert fermé gauche droit l’entrée la sortie les toilettes

groñ puh-tee show frwah boñ moh-veh oo-ver fer-meh gohsh drwah l’on-tray sor-tee twah-let

Shopping How much is it? Ça fait combien?sa fay kom-byañ What time… A quelle heure… ah kel urr …do you open? …êtes-vous et-voo oo-ver ouvert? …do you close? …êtes-vous et-voo fer-may fermé? Do you have?

Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo avez? zavay

post office supermarket tobacconist travel agent

le magasin d’antiquités la boulangerie la banque la librairie la pâtisserie la fromagerie la pharmacie le grand magasin la charcuterie le magasin de cadeaux le marchand de légumes l’alimentation le marché le magasin de journaux la poste, le bureau de poste, le PTT le supermarché le tabac l’agence de voyages

maga-zañ d’oñteekee-tay booloñ-zhuree boñk lee-brehree patee-sree fromazh-ree farmah-see groñ maga-zañ sharkoot-ree maga-zañ duh kadoh mar-shoñ duh lay-goom alee-moñtasyoñ marsh-ay maga-zañ duh zhoor-no pohst, booroh duh pohst, peh-teh-teh soo pehrmarshay tabah l’azhoñs duh vwayazh

Sightseeing art gallery bus station cathedral church garden library museum railway station tourist office town hall

la galerie d’art la gare routière la cathédrale l’église le jardin la bibliothèque le musée la gare (SNCF) l’office du tourisme l’hôtel de ville

galer-ree dart gahr roo-tee-yehr katay-dral l’aygleez zhar-dañ beebleeo-tek moo-zay gahr (es-en-say-ef) ohfees doo tooreesm l’ohtel duh veel

Staying in a Hotel Do you have a Est-ce que vous es-kuh voovacant room? avez une zavay oon chambre? shambr I have a J’ai fait une zhay fay oon reservation. réservation. rayzehrva-syoñ single room la chambre à shambr ah une personne oon pehr-son twin room la chambre à shambr ah deux lits duh lee room with a la chambre avec shambr avek bath, shower salle de bains, sal duh bañ, une douche oon doosh

Phrase Book ❮❮ 191 double room, with a double bed

la chambre à shambr ah deux personnes, duh pehr-son avec un grand avek un gronñ lit lee

onions orange juice pepper pork potatoes

Avez-vous une avay-voo oon table libre? tahbl duh leebr Je voudrais zhuh voo-dray réserver rayzehr-vay une table. oon tahbl L’addition s’il l’adee-syoñ seel vous plaît. voo play Madame, mah-dam, Mademoiselle/ mahMonsieur demwahzel/ muh-syuh

rice roast salt sausage seafood snails soup

Eating Out Have you got a table? I want to reserve a table. The bill please. Waitress/ waiter

le menu, la carte men-oo, kart le menu à men-oo ah prix fixe pree feeks le couvert koo-vehr la carte des vins kart-deh vañ le verre vehr la bouteille boo-tay le couteau koo-toh la fourchette for-shet la cuillère kwee-yehr le petit puh-tee déjeuner deh-zhuh-nay lunch le déjeuner deh-zhuh-nay dinner le dîner dee-nay main course le plat principal plah prañsee-pal starter, first l’entrée, le hors l’oñ-tray, course d’oeuvre or-duhvr dish of the day le plat du jour plah doo zhoor wine bar le bar à vin bar ah vañ café le café ka-fay menu fixed-price menu cover charge wine list glass bottle knife fork spoon breakfast

Menu Decoder baked cuit au four beef le boeuf beer la bière boiled bouilli bread le pain butter le beurre cake le gâteau cheese le fromage chicken le poulet chips les frites chocolate le chocolat coffee le café dessert le dessert duck le canard egg l’oeuf fish le poisson fresh fruit le fruit frais garlic l’ail grilled grillé ham le jambon ice, ice cream la glace lamb l’agneau lemon le citron fresh lemon juice le citron pressé meat la viande milk le lait mineral water l’eau minérale oil l’huile

kweet oh foor buhf bee-yehr boo-yee pan burr gah-toh from-azh poo-lay freet shoko-lah kah-fay deh-ser kanar l’uf pwah-ssoñ frwee freh l’eye gree-yay zhoñ-boñ glas l’anyoh see-troñ see-troñ presseh vee-yand leh l’oh meeney-ral l’weel

steak sugar tea vegetables vinegar water red wine white wine

les oignons leh zonyoñ l’orange pressée l’oroñzh presseh le poivre pwavr le porc por les pommes pom duh tehr de terre le riz ree rôti row-tee le sel sel la saucisse sohsees les fruits de mer frwee duh mer les escargots leh zes-kar-goh la soupe, soop, le potage poh-tazh le bifteck, le steak beef-tek, stek le sucre sookr le thé tay les légumes lay-goom le vinaigre veenaygr l’eau l’oh le vin rouge vañ roozh le vin blanc vañ bloñ

Numbers 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 1,000

zéro zeh-roh un, une uñ, oon deux duh trois trwah quatre katr cinq sañk six sees sept set huit weet neuf nerf dix dees onze oñz douze dooz treize trehz quatorze katorz quinze kañz seize sehz dix-sept dees-set dix-huit dees-weet dix-neuf dees-nerf vingt vañ trente tront quarante karoñt cinquante sañkoñt soixante swasoñt soixante-dix swasoñt-dees quatre-vingts katr-vañ quatre-vingt-dix katr-vañ-dees cent soñ mille meel

Time one minute one hour half an hour one day Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

une minute oon mee-noot une heure oon urr une demi-heure urr duh-me urr un jour urr zhorr lundi luñ-dee mardi mar-dee mercredi mehrkruh-dee jeudi zhuh-dee vendredi voñdruh-dee samedi sam-dee dimanche dee-moñsh

192 ❯❯ Map Index

Map Index Archives, Rue des Q2 Assas, Rue d’ K6 Austerlitz, Quai d’ H6 B.-Franklin, Rue B4 Bac, Rue du J3 Bastille, Boulevard de la H5 Bastille, Place de la H5 Beaubourg, Rue P1 Beaumarchais, Boulevard H4 Berger, Rue N2 Bonaparte, Rue L3 Breteuil, Avenue de D5 Buci, Rue de L4 Buffon, Rue G6 Capucines, Boulevard des E3 Cardinal Lemoine, Rue du P6 Carnot, Avenue B2 Celestins, Quai des Q4 Champs Elysées, Avenue des C3 Charles De Gaulle, Avenue A2 Charonne, Rue de H5 Chemin Vert, Rue du H4 Cherche Midi, Rue du K5 Cité, Rue de la N4 Cler, Rue C4 Clery, Rue de F3 Clichy, Boulevard de E1 Concorde, Place de la D3 Contrescarpe, Place de la F6 Coquillere, Rue M1 Courcelles, Rue de C2 Croix des Petits Champs, Rue M1 Cuvier, Rue G6 Dante, Rue N5 Dauphine, Place M3 Deux Ponts, Rue des Q5 Dupin, Rue J5 Duquesne, Avenue C5 Durantin, Rue E1 Ecole de Medicine, Rue de l’ M5 Ecoles, Rue des N5 Ecouffes, Rue des Q3 Edgar Quinet, Boulevard E6 Faubourg du Temple, Rue du H3 Faubourg Montmartre, Rue du F2 Faubourg St Denis, Rue du G2 Faubourg St Honoré, Rue du D3

Faubourg St Martin, Rue du G2 Ferronnerie, Rue de la N2 Foch, Avenue A2 Fontaine, Rue E1 Francois Miron, Rue P3 Francs Bourgeois, Rue des Q2 Franklin-D.-Roosevelt, Avenue C3 George V, Avenue C3 Georges Pompidou, Place P2 Gouvion St Cyr, Boulevard B1 Grand Cerf, Passage du N1 Grande Armée, Avenue de la B2 Grands Augustins, Quai des M4 Grands Augustins, Rue des M4 Grenelle, Boulevard de B5 Grenelle, Quai de B5 Grenelle, Rue de J4 Halles, Rue des N2 Haussmann, Boulevard E2 Henri IV, Boulevard R5 Henri IV, Quai R5 Hotel de Ville, Quai de l’ P3 Iéna, Avenue d’ B3 Invalides, Boulevard des D5 Italiens, Boulevard des E3 Jacob, Rue K3 Jean Jaures, Avenue H1 Jussieu, Rue P6 Kleber, Avenue B3 Lappe, Rue de H5 Lepic, Rue E1 Lombards, Rue des N2 Louvre, Quai du L2 Louvre, Rue du M1 Madeleine, Place de la D3 Malesherbes, Boulevard D2 Marceau, Avenue B3 Marigny, Avenue de D3 Maubert, Place N5 Mazarine, Rue L4 Monge, Rue P6 Montaigne, Avenue C3 Montebello, Quai de N4 Montmartre, Boulevard F2 Montmartre, Rue F3 Montorgueil, Rue N1

Montparnasse, Boulevard du E6 Mouffetard, Rue F6 Oberkampf, Rue H3 Odéon, Place de l’ L5 Odéon, Rue de l’ L5 Opéra, Avenue de l’ L1 Orsay, Quai d’ C4 P Lescot, Rue N1 Paix, Rue de la E3 Palais-Royal, Place du L1 Passy, Rue de A4 Peripherique, Boulevard A2 Pigalle, Place E1 Poissonniere, Boulevard F3 Pont Neuf, Rue du M2 President Kennedy, Avenue du A5 President Wilson, Avenue du B4 Quatre Septembre, Rue du E3 Racine, Rue M5 Rambuteau, Rue N1 Raspail, Boulevard J4 Raynouard, Rue A4 Renard, Rue du P2 République, Avenue de la H3 République, Place de la G3 Richard Lenoir, Boulevard H3 Richelieu, Rue de L1 Rivoli, Rue de M2 Rosiers, Rue des Q3 Royale, Rue D3 Saints Pères, Rue des K4 Sebastopol, Boulevard de N2 Seine, Rue de L4 Sevres, Rue de J5 Sorbonne, Place de la M5 Soufflot, Rue M6 St Bernard, Quai Q6 St Denis, Boulevard G3 St Denis, Rue N2 St Dominique, Rue C4 St Germain, Boulevard M5 St Honoré, Rue E3 St Jacques, Rue N5 St Louis en l’Ile, Rue Q5 St Martin, Boulevard G3 St Martin, Rue P1 St Merri, Rue P2 St Michel, Boulevard M5 St Michel, Quai N4 St Severin, Rue N4 St Sulpice, Place K5

St Sulpice, Rue L5 Ste Croix de la Bretonnerie, Rue Q3 Suffren, Avenue de C5 Temple, Boulevard du H3 Temple, Rue du Q1 Tertre, Place du F1 Tournelle, Quai de la P5 Trocadèro, Place du B4 Tuileries, Quai des J2 Turenne, Rue de R2 Université, Rue de l’ J3 Valois, Rue de L1 Varenne, Rue de J4 Vendome, Place E3 Verrerie, Rue de la P3 Versailles, Avenue de A5 Victor Hugo, Avenue A3 Vieille du Temple, Rue Q3 Villette, Boulevard de la H2 Voltaire, Boulevard H4 Voltaire, Quai K2 Vosges, Place des R3 W Churchill, Avenue D3 Wagram, Avenue de C1