Edible Wild Mushrooms of North America: A Field-to-kitchen Guide 9780292745940

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EDIBLE WILD MUSHROOMS OF NORTH AMERICA

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Edible Wild Mushrooms of North America A FIELD-TO-KITCHEN GUIDE BY DAVID W. FISCHER AND ALAN E. BESSETTE

University of Texas Press, Austin

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Copyright © 1992 by David W. Fischer and Alan E. Bessette All rights reserved Printed in China Eighth paperback printing, 2011 Requests for permission to reproduce material from this work should be sent to: Permissions University of Texas Press P.O. Box 7819 Austin, TX 78713-7819 www.utexas.edu/utpress/about /bpermission.html

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA Fischer, David W. (David William), 1959Edible wild mushrooms of North America : a field-to-kitchen guide / by David W. Fischer and Alan E. Bessette. — 1st ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-292-72080-0 (alk. paper) 1. Mushrooms, Edible—North America—Identification. 2. Mushrooms, Poisonous—North America—Identification. 3. Cookery (Mushrooms). I. Bessette, Alan. II. Title. QK617.F53 1992 589.2*220463 2*097—dc2o 91-24351

® The paper used in this book meets the minimum requirements of ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992 (R1997) (Permanence of Paper).

All photographs are by Alan E. Bessette except where indicated with initials at bottom of the photograph. DA

TB JB JC

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GL OM SM ARB KS

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David Arora Timothy J. Baroni Jack Billman John F. Connor, Jr. Warren Greene Emily Johnson Gary H. Lincoff Orson K. Miller, Jr. Susan Mitchell Arleen Rainis Bessette Kit Scates-Barnhart Joy Spurr Walter J. Sundberg Steve Trudell

All black-and-white drawings are by Philippa Brown.

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COfltCfltS

PREFACE k ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

X

PART ONE. Discovering Mycophagy i 1.

AN INTRODUCTION TO THE MUSHROOM

3

2.

FUNDAMENTALS OF THE HUNT

3.

WHAT HAVE YOU FOUND?

4.

THE MYCOPHAGIST'S TEN COMMANDMENTS

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HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE AND BEYOND

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13 17

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PART TWO. Forgotten Fruit: Edible Wild Mushrooms of North America 21 6.

CHANTERELLES AND SIMILAR MUSHROOMS

7.

GILLED MUSHROOMS

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BOLETES

9.

TOOTH MUSHROOMS

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93 IO7

IO.

CORAL-SHAPED, CLUB-SHAPED, AND CAULIFLOWER-SHAPED MUSHROOMS

11.

SHELFLIKE MUSHROOMS, PUFFBALLS, MORELS, AND JELLY FUNGI

112

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PART THREE. Poisonous Wild Mushrooms of North America 141 12.

MUSHROOM POISONING

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13.

POISONOUS WILD MUSHROOMS

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PART FOUR. Wild Mushrooms in the Kitchen 169 14.

PREPARING, PRESERVING, AND COOKING WILD MUSHROOMS

15.

WILD MUSHROOM RECIPES GLOSSARY

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179

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RECOMMENDED READING INDEX

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245

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Recipes Appetizers

Soups and Stews

Salads

Vegetables

Main Courses

Black Trumpet Cracker Spread 184

Arvensis Casino 189 Matsutake Canapes 204 Fried Two-colored Boletes 218 Baked Stuffed Morels 228 Marinated Wild Mushrooms 235 Sausage-stuffed Mushroom Caps 237 Stuffed Mushrooms 240 Meadow Mushroom Chicken Soup 187 Hunter's Stew 200 Honey-cap and Lamb Stew 211 Cream of Mushroom Soup 233 Tortellini in Mushroom Broth 241 Black Trumpet Sweet and Sour Salad 183 Lobster Mushroom Spinach Salad 186 Shaggy Mane Salad 194 Curried Cashew Chicken and Grayling Salad 199 Cauliflower Mushroom Salad 221 Hen of the Woods Salad 226 Wine-cap Stropharia with Madeira 191 Kasha and Shaggy Parasols 192 Snow Pea Pods and Fairy Ring Mushrooms 193 Orange-latex Milkies with Milkweed Pods 202 Corrugated-cap Milkies with Spiced Cauliflower 203 Fawn Mushrooms au Gratin 206 Hydnum Hash 220 Creamed Morels and Potatoes 229

MEAT Calabrese Mushroom Chili 181 Pork with Purple Laccaria and Plum Sauce 196 Cordon Blewit 201 Oriental Oyster Mushrooms and Steak 212 Late Fall Oyster Mushroom Pie 215 Bolete and Sausage Pizza Roll 218 Pheasant's Back Jambalaya 223 POULTRY Cornish Game Hens with Chanterelle Stuffing and Apricot Glaze 180 Swiss Chicken Edulis 219

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Main Courses

FISH AND SHELLFISH Black Trumpet Trout 184 Salmon with Black Trumpets and Horseradish Sauce 185 Laccaria Stir-fry 197 Chroogomphus and Dungeness Crab Cakes 198 Orange Roughy with Platterfuls 207 Oyster Mushrooms Mornay 213 Angel Wings and Scallop Crepes 214 King Bolete Thermidor 217 Hen and Lobster with Dill Sauce 222 Sulphur Shelf and Mussels 225 Baked Fish with Mushrooms and Garden Vegetables 232 PASTA

Pasta with Lactarius Provencal Sauce 194 Marinated Tricholoma and Pasta Delight 206 Entoloma and Pearl Onions in Madeira Sauce 208 Honey Mushrooms with Fettuccini 210 Duxelle and Ricotta Stuffed Shells 234

Meatless, or Nearly So

Sauces and Gravies Accompaniments

Dessert

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Curried Cinnabar-red Chanterelle Filo 181 Trumpet Chanterelle Omelet 182 Meadow Mushroom Pie 188 Reddening Lepiota Fritatta 191 Brick Cap Vegetable Casserole 209 Mock Chicken Cacciatore 224 Mock Chicken Paprikash 224 Sulphur Shelf Casserole 226 Puffball Parmesan 227 Fiddlehead-Morel Quiche 230 Scrambled Eggs and Wild Mushrooms 238 Seaweed and Wild Mushrooms 239 Wild Mushroom Gravy 188 Shaggy Mane Sauce 195 Blewit Cream Sauce 200 Morel Blender Hollandaise Sauce 230 Stropharia Cheese Muffins 190 Breaded Parasol Mushroom Caps 193 Steamed Gypsies in Sweet Red Pepper Sauce 205 Pickled Honey Mushrooms 210 Sauteed King Boletes 216 Mixed Mushroom Saute 236 Peppers and Mushrooms Filadelfia Style 240 Glazed Jellv Tooth 231

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B% 6RSON K. MIKLER, JR.,

in recognition of his many years of encouraging mycol^gists, both amateur and professional, and ifr acknowledgment M his work, which first sparked an