Diy Quick-Fix Handbook 0276428072, 9780276428074

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home

of

Take

survey

your

it from

the

Assessing

the

condition

property

Check the

top

controls

Before you start any DIY, make sure you know where

Start your home survey with the roof. A pair of binoculars is

the water and gas stoptaps and main electricity

useful for inspecting it without having to climb a ladder.

supply switch are located. Keep a torch by the

If you can't see the whole roof surface from your garden

electricity meter, plus some fuse wire if the system

or the street, ask to view it from a neighbour's property.

has fuses (see page

174). Locate all drain inspection

chambers (manholes) and check that the covers can Stacks

be lifted easily if a drain becomes blocked

of trouble

Chimneys are the most exposed part of your house, so

(see page

138).

check them closely for signs of damage. Look for cracks in the pots and in the flaunchmg-the mortar bed in which the pots are embedded. If a stack is built against an outside wall, examine it for straightness. The combination of coal gases

Look for

condensing inside the flue and ram soaking through the

Check the gutters and downpipes for blockages (see page

mortar joints can set up a chemical reaction which makes the

44). Stains on the house walls can reveal where previous

brickwork bulge outwards. Repointing the brickwork (see

overflows have occurred. The next time it rains, check where

page 49) and lining the flue can arrest the problem, but a

gutters are overflowing or where water is leaking from

severely damaged stack may have to be completely rebuilt.

downpipe joints.

Include

the

overflows

garden

Remember to survey the garden at the same time as the rest of your home. Fences may be in poor s:

condition, a shed roof may be leaking, garden paths may need lighting, and nearby trees may be •:>

undermining boundary walls. A gate or door into the

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inspirations

visualise

A

sense

of

your

Prepare

a

plan

and

options

Illusions

direction

of

space

Find out in which direction north lies and mark it

Several design tricks can be used to make a room feel bigger

on your plan. Aspect can be vital if you're thinking

than it really is. For example, brightly lit rooms with pale walls,

of building a conservatory, or having skylights or

bare floors, simple furniture and sheer curtains feel spacious.

new windows put in the house-all of which

Strategically hung mirrors also add an illusion of extra space,

need to face south or west to get most sunshine

reflecting what lies through a window, around a corner or

and daylight.

beyond an open doorway.

Envisage

the

impact

That

shrinking

If you decide to have new openings made in a

feeling

wall, or an existing one enlarged, you can get an

A room can be made to feel

idea of the overall impact by sketching them

smaller too. Dark walls and

full-size on sheets of lining paper, then taping

ceilings seem to advance.

these in position on the wall surface.

A picture rail also makes a ceiling feel lower, especially if the wall above the rail is

Change

without

disruption

Instead of altering the dimensions of rooms by knocking them into one another to create bigger spaces or putting up stud walls to make them smaller, consider creating change by illusion. Using colour, lighting, furniture and furnishings to create different effects is cheaper and less disruptive than undertaking building work.

painted to match the ceiling colour. Heavy, patterned fabrics, dark furniture and focused lighting emphasise the shrinking effect.

Consider

start

Structural

the

making

alternatives

before

you

changes

considerations

Rooms with

a

view

Make sure a dividing wall is non-loadbearing before you

Glass creates an impression of space. Glazing a

knock it down to turn two rooms into one. One way to tell is

solid door at the end of a claustrophobic hall

to look at floorboards in the room above-if they run parallel

introduces a view of the outside or into a room,

to the wall, the joists they're laid on must be supported by

lets in light and makes the hall feel more

the wall-but seek expert advice if you're in any doubt.

spacious. Creating or emphasising a view of the garden through a window or french doors makes a room appear larger, especially if tall plants are

Counting the

potential

costs

kept away from the other side of the glass.

One room made from two will have more light if both the originals had windows, but the bigger area will be more expensive to heat. A sense of comfort may be lost if the

Lofty thoughts

enlarged room feels too long, too narrow or too low. In

Don't forget the loft when

addition, there will now be space where there were two

you're looking for extra

surfaces to stand furniture against and hang things on.

space. Although the roof trusses used in most houses since about

New

uses for

existing

areas

1950 usually

involve too much structural

You can make your home suit your lifestyle better by

work to make loft conversion

changing the way you use rooms. For example, an

practical, the roof spaces in

understairs cupboard could be converted into a downstairs

older properties can often be

toilet. You could house the washing machine, tumble drier

turned into an extra room

and airer in an old walk-in larder and increase food

(see page

storage in the kitchen. An integral garage is an obvious candidate for conversion into a playroom, a home office or a teenager's room if you're prepared to leave the car on the drive or street.

12).

solutions

Making

Risks

&

the

not worth

the

most

of

your

abilities

Opportunity to

saving

Always err on the side of caution if you're not confident

tackle

about your DIY skills-especially if the job involves working at

Scaffolding forms a

height. All the equipment needed for carrying out roof repairs

substantial part of the total

and alterations can be hired

cost of having a house re-

(see page 32), but if you are

other tasks

unsure about whether you can do the |ob safely, paying

roofed. Try to take advantage

professional contractors is preferable to risking injury

of it by having other jobs,

or worse.

such as painting the outside

-MJ

woodwork or repointing the ; s

H

brickwork, carried out while the scaffolding is in place. It will have to satisfy the requirements of different tradespeople (for example, providing planking and

—

access ladders for painters). You will probably have to pay extra to keep the scaffolding beyond the four weeks usually negotiated by roofers. Remember that you will not be covered by the contractor's insurance if O

'I you work from the scaffolding yourself. 11 'IS:

Ii.fi

m ;

if'"?

ri

F v ? k jji Wm 11 j

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FZ*l&r£S&.

u 'I'X'

■\:'-, ::'^4 V

c

i:

ladders

Make

Get

a

safety

good

your

top

priority

grip

Hold the rungs, not the ladder sides, when you climb m

or descend a ladder. If you miss your footing, you will automatically grab them and so avoid a fall. If you hold the sides and you slip, you will get skin burns from a ladder and splinters from a wooden one.

metal

Don't hug the

Stand

well

away

f T ladder; climb with your arms straight and your body upright.

Fit a stand-off to the top of your ladder to hold it away from overhanging eaves and allow you to work on the gutters.

« a

You may crack a plastic gutter if you rest a ladder against it.

«

Illl ififS c -

—■ m % £

mmt k ' ■ m -W-ry/ /Mm I

•

* vt ■ •

" mmmm

B'1- - ■ Bs

R

p-"-;

np

-A

rmmmi; j;

-J R

9

liiiJS

Power cables hanging from

Mat ladders are a potential safety hazard; use cordless power r tools whenever you can.

- :

■

1

Don't

climb

too

high

Use the top four rungs of a ladder as / ca

handholds only. If you try to stand on them and grab something higher up for

m support, such as a gutter or sill, you are quite likely to fall.

32

Bg it"'

i

1 Secure

a

firm

foothold

If a ladder is going to be in one position for a lengthy job, tie

i ?(

it to sturdy pegs driven into the ground on each side of the

RAISING

A

LADDER

uprights to prevent it slipping. On hard surfaces, or when you need to move the ladder frequently, get someone to stand on the bottom rung of the ladder and anchor it in place.

&

On soft ground, stand the ladder on a board to stop it from 4 1 M

sinking. Screw a batten to the board to prevent the ladder IZ

from sliding outwards, then tie and stake it. Alternatively, you can hire a ladder safety foot, which has a high-friction base.

1 m r

Get

an

extra

pair

of

1

4

hands

■() 4 : 4 i

Someone of average height can push up the top section of an extension ladder by only about 2m (6 ft 6 in) once it is in position. To extend the ladder further, lay it on the ground with its foot braced against the wall, then pull out the extension to the required length. Don't forget to turn the

1

ladder over before raising it, so the right side faces outwards.

there

Triple extension ladders are available with cord-and-pulley

obstacles in the way

Carry

ladder

are

upright

overhead

to

work

site

electricity cables

unless

I i

or other

i operation. These can be extended single-handed, but you will need help to control the ladder while setting it in position.

/ Dress for comfort and

I 1

safety

Wear thick-soled shoes with a good grip and, if you're going to be standing on one rung for long A periods, fit a hook-on platform to the ladder to fe:

Ai

prevent sore feet. Trousers and long-sleeved tops I protect you from knocks and scratches, and a safety helmet protects your head.

Keep

of the

glass

Lash a length of timber at least 75 x 50 mm across the top

2 To erect ladder, jam its feet against base of

of a ladder to enable you to paint or glaze a window.

wall,

The timber rests on the masonry at each side of the opening

walk towards wall

then

lift

top

end

over

your

head

'•I "I

and

i and holds the ladder safely away from the glass.

HiiHGBHi J

*v V M

jS'

3

% i.

Ladder

is

at

correct angle when, with

toes

touching bottom of ladder and arms and back straight, you can grasp rung at shoulder height

..'•/vj i

: r" --

rnmm r ladders

and

Stepladders

platforms

w

HI W! m SlH

m

V-r K. I I, J

1

7

I

7: .O'sr

BB

M FT

• •• i nV m

i

-mm

m m

I

x -- T V

iW

t ' i: v"

A

prop

to

stop

a

topple

Clamp or screw a 50x25 mm batten, long enough to reach the ground, to the back of a stepladder at an angle of around 45°, to make it more stable.

'

j". -■ : f fZ'-ZC' •v.

A

grip

to

stop

a

'

drop -T;W

Stretch strong elastic bands round the platform of a

sn

stepladder so you can tuck tools under them and prevent - --

them rolling off. A magnetic strip stuck to the platform edge Improvise

will do the same job for loose nails and screws.

a

'r

platform

Use the components of a slot-together platform tower to n make a mobile low-level work platform. Lock the wheels M., once the platform is in position. wamw. ..'C -

ma1/'-'-/

m

'n I.

Check

.

The

rv. 1■ .

Handy

holdall

Never climb a ladder with your

before

you

three-rung test

climb

Look for the

label

With the ladder set up, climb three rungs

By law a new ladder must carry a label

and jump up and down, then lean out to

stating its safe load rating. Many also have

each side to check that it won't settle.

a sticker, designed to be used with a spirit

Reposition the ladder on firmer ground or

level, that enables you to set up the

on a board if it moves.

ladder at a safe angle.

hands full. Instead, raise and lower tools and other items in

34

a small bucket tied to a length

Ladder

health

check

of rope, making sure the load

Before using an aluminium ladder, check that all the rungs are secure and that it is

is well balanced and not too

not dented or deformed. Inspect a wooden ladder for splits, broken rungs, missing or

heavy. Then hang the bucket

damaged reinforcing stays under the rungs, and rot and woodworm. Protect it with

on an S-hook-available from

varnish or clear wood preservative. Do not use paint, which hides defects. Check that

hardware shops and D1Y

hinges and stays on stepladders are securely attached. If a stepladder is an old wooden

stores-suspended from a rung.

one, make sure the restraint cords are sound.

r

-

Looking for faults roofs

Giving

your

roof

Cariy out a thorough inspection of the roof surface and any chimney stacks on

the

a regular basis, looking for the faults

once-over

described here, then problems can be fixed before they cause serious damage. VALLEY

RIDGE However, unless you are happy to work on your roof and to carry out necessary repairs m

m =v

MS

mm «r2 tM,5® -' vS -.^wm. «55 r ^'fT^TCntfiiTf - >W' .* h* I-

■ of

% '• ' '■-.

s-^

.>•

for you. ;yV

"V

«e FLAUNCH NC L' i'i.

- s

m

wSil&te

S-r-

- ■ si L-S

."■v

SnS

" ^ /• -=^

sag

V i n •v-

%

fie

py ;;

.< . • /:•

stack is intact. Then inspect the brickwork y

v: m

' and the pointing, noting any frost-damaged

•V'

A m i. .•

bricks or missing mortar. Consider having

s* &

•ft-

unused flues capped.

.> ■

m

JM W

■-A.

»

psnW n -•

FLASHING

'-7-

.y

(flaunching) holding them in place on the

m

m

i m

checking that the pots and the mortar layer

Vv

-y

•4*. >>s m

-^.5 V-*

■

--'V.C- r"~' ;S::7■jrfKS

-v 3S2

r

m:r

:-

>•

of trouble

Start at the top of each chimney stack,

.7

?'•

Stacks

•
• ■>r

--

Trouble with

the timbers

Always seek expert advice from a builder or surveyor before

Ridge

tile

healthcheck

Most houses have ridge and hip tiles set in a continuous mortar bed, and when this

i/ considering replacing slates or plain clay tiles with modern •V

concrete tiles. The weights of roofing materials vary greatly, and you may need to have the roof structure strengthened-a

4

cracks up the tiles can be dislodged by high winds, allowing water to get in and rot the timbers. Check that yours are all secure, and identify any loose ones with a chalk cross so they can be lifted and rebedded securely.

potentially expensive and highly c disruptive job. rftf

Slipping

slates

mean

rusty

nails

Stay

off the

tiles

Large numbers of slates slipping out of position indicate that

Roof tiles can be lifted and cracked, or even removed

the nails securing them to the battens have rusted through.

completely, by high winds. However, a more likely cause of

The slates themselves may be sound enough to be re-fixed,

damage is someone climbing onto the roof and standing

but you will probably find some that need replacing. Secure

directly on the tiles. Never do this yourself; one slip could be

the slates with copper nails that will not rust.

fatal. Use a roof ladder or crawl boards at all times.

35

roofs

Getting

on

top

of

Spread

the

the

load

problem

safely

Convert your ladder for roof work with a ridge hook, if you can obtain one which fits it. For extensive work on a roof, however, m

hire crawl boards, which are much more comfortable than an

m ordinary ladder. They also spread weight more evenly and reduce the risk of tiles or slates being cracked.

• f r-

h ■ ;-K*

i

r m

i *

i

m MY.

lr-4^

•

1

■5'-

m

m ■>i'~ m mm "A,

r." ^2 k£k

m WSSi ■

135

»i

m

Sound

^V, w

smm

i

X.

ring test

-y

Test a secondhand slate by tapping it lightly with a hammer. You'll hear a ringing sound if it's in good condition, and a dull sound if it's cracked. Look at the underside, too; it's usually

7

the first surface to powder and crumble. •>-

V

;

is

m Inspect the

valleys

r-;.

m

Valleys-the internal angles where two roof slopes meet-are usually lined with a metal tray T

secured to wooden boards that are themselves supported by the roof rafters. Keep them clear of wind-blown debris so they can't overflow and soak the woodwork. Check them for splits or tears too; any you find can be waterproofed

- ■-r.'

temporarily by sticking on some self-adhesive flashing tape.

mm Watch

the

verges

At gables, the end tiles of each row may

36

project beyond the face of the wall to form

Wear the

what is known as a verge. This overhang is

For maximum safety, wear a hard hat when working on a roof.

supported on plain tiles, slates or strips of fibre

Strong work gloves will protect your hands from sharp edges.

cement sheet bedded on top of the sloping

A tool pouch makes sure you have both hands free and reduces

masonry. Check that the mortar forming the

the chances of tools sliding down the roof. Always wear stout

verge is intact. If it's cracked or missing, high

boots with solid soles, so the rungs don't cut into your feet, and

winds could lift and dislodge the tiles.

add knee pads if you wish for extra comfort.

right

safety

gear

Using Safe

and

an

access tower

A slot-together access tower is the safest way to reach the

secure

When you've built the tower up to the required height, fit a

roof. You'll need one with a platform height of about 5 m

handrail and a set of toe boards all around the platform. Hire

(16 ft) to reach the eaves of a two-storey building. Choose a

stabilisers for towers with platform heights up to 6 m (20 ft),

narrow-width tower (above) if space is restricted, such as

or tie them securely to the building at eaves level.

between houses. Make sure the base of the tower is standing level and square, and spread the load on soft ground by putting boards under the legs. Fit lockable castors if the tower is on hard level ground, to make it secure, but

njz* easily moved.

■

'..j Firm

base

for the

feet

One of the most useful accessories for improving ladder safety is a base stabiliser, which can be bought or hired. The high-friction base resists slipping when the ladder is standing on a hard surface. It also spreads the load and --

stops the feet of the ladder from sinking into soft ground.

37 *

m my(3 :

m - ■'ijJ

i

mm*

m r 55

•-

rm

m

. r..*- S7

m&SSK

r-f-.rc

•./ : EB£ '•j tm m

m

ater f'

' -7''

m '4

m53?

}

V. I &

V. iii «a»a i mmmm; v' v.? ®mw JP ^&jkr. 7 ft. ,y ''.s

-;l m

•' • •

c

PLAIN TILES SPAN TWO OR THREE BATTENS

)

•w C

roofs

SLATES SPAN THREE BATTENS

Replacing

INTERLOCKING TILES SPAN TWO BATTENS

)

damaged

tiles

and

)

slates

:-,\r

■Nibs,

nails

or

c.i

clips

h-i r.'

How you replace a broken tile depends

16 m

m on how it is fixed to the underlying batten.

HZI

d;

Most plain tiles are made with nibs

Ripping through

re™

projecting from their top back edge, that

rusty

nails

Hire a tool called a slate ripper to m

hook over the batten and are nailed in

hook round and cut through the

place every fourth or fifth row.

nails that secure slates and tiles to

Interlocking tiles are often

their battens. Most tiles are not m

held with nails, or

nailed in place but all slates are fixed

by clips nailed to

with two nails—usually around half-

the batten. But you won't be able to tell

way up, but sometimes at the top.

just by looking, unless you can see the underside of the tiles from the loft space.

=.. . •; ^3- _

- -:

.. - ' Tl t ■'

m

"V

HDUI MrMifv.?' v'Viir-

■VMS

'

m ■

third coat (and a fourth one if

mtawH it's recommended). Wear old

i i

v m

tu

rrfy WM

'M-tk

1$*£kk r^^cc

roofs

Fast

shoes for the job—along with

H

%

-nm m *S

the broom, they'll only be fit for

5-i -V

fixes

throwing away afterwards.

for

felt

roofs O

Save

the

stone

chippings

Stand

The chippings on a flat roof protect the felt from overheating

on

boards

Flat roofs are generally not designed for access. If you V)

in the sun and the degradation caused by sunlight. Over time

have to climb onto one to clean windows or to paint

they tend to get washed into the gutter and then down the

an exterior wall, lay boards down to spread your

drain. Cover the top of the downpipe with a fine mesh to

weight. Don't walk on the unprotected roof-your

prevent this, and

O

rescue chippings from the gutter to scatter

weight will push the chippings through the felt—and

over any bald patches on the roof surface.

take care not to drop heavy tools. If you stand a ladder on a flat roof, rest its feet on a board, with

Solar-reflective coating is an alternative to chippings, but

a batten screwed along the outside edge to stop

needs renewing periodically to maintain its effectiveness.

the feet sliding outwards.

m

Tape

&

over

a

split

Scrape chippings from the surrounding area (far

■

left) and get rid of any moisture trapped in the 4

a

Sri

IS

h^rySfe; ■ W

split, speeding up the process with a hot-air gun i

\

*

S.

mastic, then prime the area round the split with a

* iiuim' kAjbIP'-U

m team

if you have one. Fill the split with bituminous

n

VK..

-

«•

: bitumen primer and allow it to dry. Cover the area

»•>

\

with a piece of self-adhesive roofing repair tape. ¥4

WB

-c :T/

-

Bed the tape down firmly by running an old

U2 m.

wallpaper seam roller over it a few times (left).

m -y'J* • — ..

-V r

n i s* ■

S,

p. * *

-

Tmk

If you suspect that the split lies directly over a a

— ? ■%

joint between underlying decking panels, continue t ^ the repair all the way to the roof edge.

41

roofs

Stick

down

Fast

the

fixes

for

felt

roofs

seams

Loose seams in roofing felt can be lifted and torn by high winds. Use roofing mastic or coldapplied felt adhesive to stick them down before LEAD WEDGE

this happens.

FLASHING

Release

chippings

with

heat x'mmm

Use a wide scraper to remove loose chippings

v.

from areas needing repair. If they are stuck to the felt, a hot-air gun will release them.

s.

- - >r.

Mending in

blisters

felt

Use a trimming knife to make

Secure

loose

lead

flashings

a cross-cut over the blister,

A lead flashing waterproofs the join between, for example,

taking care not to cut through

a porch or lean-to and a wall. The top edge of the flashing

the layer of felt below. Peel

should be wedged into a brickwork joint, then mortared in

back the flaps and thoroughly

place. If a flashing needs refixing, replace any missing

dry the area underneath using

wedges before repointing. Cut small strips of lead and

a hot-air gun. Spread cold-

fold them concertina-fashion, then tap them into place

applied felt adhesive to the

with a mallet.

mmmt v-t

4.- - ■ ■■ mt mm r-x1, m

H

■it TO/

Xyt

---

exposed area and press the ye: flaps back into place. When f

c

x

bonded, seal the cuts with a

Protect

heavy-duty bituminous mastic

If you live in a house with a flat roof covered in lead, zinc or

and replace the chippings.

copper, prevent acid attack from moss or lichen by treating it

a

metal

roof

regularly with a fungicide. Patch any splits in the metal sheet with self-adhesive flashing strip.

Two

ways to

insulate

Flat roofs can rot from below as well as above. Warm air from the room below condenses in the ceiling space, attacking the underside of the decking panels. The solution is to insulate the roof, after carrying out any V fA ■U •/ /[

necessary remedial work to the deck, and ( 'warm' roof ) this can be done in two ways. C INSULATION J A 'warm' roof is formed by laying rigid polystyrene sheet insulation over the existing decking and then adding a new layer of decking

0

COLD

ROOF

and roofing felt on top. It is the better option if the existing roof deck is still relatively sound.

VENTILATION GAP

A 'cold' roof has insulation beneath the roof deck, plus a L INSULATION ^ ventilation gap to ensure that air can reach the underside of the deck. This can be installed only if the deck has to be completely replaced or if the ceiling below is removed.

Mending

a

corrugated

plastic

roof

Cutting

corrugated

plastic

To hold the sheet you are sawing securely, support it on a pile of other sheets. Alternatively clamp it between two lengths of wood positioned parallel and close to !l

* >v

the cutting line. In cold weather, bring the

■■ m m

sheets indoors for sawing as the plastic becomes brittle and may crack in low

m -y-

,-'C

temperatures.

1

fS

'MF

1

Don't the

. 'V

crack

sheet

Avoid cracking plastic sheets

. . when you screw them down

y

the gutter has to

•Kit

carry. It also halves the c

gap between the gutter

PIPE CLIP

J )

and the edge of the tiles or slates, created by the fall of the gutter, so there is less RAINWATER SHOE chance of wind driving rain onto the wall in the gap between the edge of the roof and the gutter. Fixed

and

replaceable Water for the

seals

The rubber seals on gutter

garden

Diverter kits, available from garden centres and D1Y stores,

unions eventually perish.

enable you to fill a rainwater butt from the downpipe. The

Sometimes they are bonded

diverter returns water to the downpipe before the butt overflows.

and you have to buy an

Raise the butt on bricks or a stand, so a watering can will fit

entire new union to stop

under the tap.

the leak, but with some brands the seal can be Cutting

it fine

detached from its groove

— Always cut lengths of plastic

and replaced separately.

guttering and downpipe at ground level. Use a hacksaw or tenon ■

saw, and remove the burr with a

Cure

file, so that it can be neatly joined

Plastic gutters expand in the heat—you

to another length. To cut round

can hear them creaking in the sun—and

pipe squarely, wrap a piece of

sometimes sections come apart at the

paper around it so that the edges

unions. Check the joints after a spell of

line up, then stick it down with

hot weather. Tap the end of the gutter

tape. The edge of the paper

back into place with a mallet if it has

provides a cutting guide.

pulled out of a union.

dislocated

joints

w ft* 41.

.

brickwork

V\j*

Facelifts

i.'fi ^ " J' 1 e-se^f ^ ".-v,

'■

~itl ■'''• ';:

for

outside

'■v.: K

-v

Lock

4»2p ^ m i& «&

kv^,^

:

.

are a sure sign of frost damage. The longer the

»;.4

.

problem is ignored the worse it will get, so as soon

BK*' ..J^L

£ it ..aS Js

yj

moisture

Flakes of brick lying along the foot of a wall in winter

fci iliil &-\r, Bis

1

out

walls

as the weather warms up apply a colourless,

'«/TT -"• i W$mM ••■-■■ - ■

microporous water-repellent sealant, which will allow the bricks to breathe but will keep out moisture.

Bi

-

v.

ci arv

:--:.:r m

Vi« If you're going to apply it with a spray gun, choose

r< mk

z% fe

1

V

a still day, wear a respirator, and cover up to keep

PP : SStr :7.-vl

-# r v- -^1

the fluid off your skin.

1 RPC .

"• :-cC HB,**, k, J^>. "f't^vi-.-, l"'•' • • V '1 SI'TW'T»V-•v iii

-t-j*C'^xyNk'>■»-< It" w *

93 m* :
i

You can remove years of grime from bricks with .4

il v .--' le^E^a 'S V".

♦

^v-

nothing more elaborate than a stiff bristle brush and a

K« SJ bSi *

C

running hose. Work in horizontal bands from the top

»w| tvVsEfWW^^^S^LVfc

3

mtr

to the bottom of a wall, inspecting the pointing

■ / '■",. ••'r- --'iV,a

■

as you go. Use a solution of household ammonia— ft about half a cup in a bucket of water—on really grimy

Turn

a

damaged

brick

about-face

areas. Wear goggles and rubber gloves to protect your

Frost-damaged bricks should be replaced, but if you cannot

eyes and hands. 3

find a matching one turn the damaged brick around. Use a power drill, on hammer action, and a masonry bit to make

o

holes in the joint all around the brick to its full depth. Chip

Draw stains with

a

paste

away the remaining mortar with a plugging chisel, prise the

Remove stubborn stains like tar and oil with a paste made

brick out, then mortar it back into the hole, back to front.

from fuller's earth or ground chalk, mixed with paraffin or white spirit. Wipe over the stain with a little of the solvent used to make the paste, then spread a layer of paste over it

Give

salt the

brush-off

(below left). Finally, tape a plastic bag or a piece of

A white powdery deposit, called efflorescence, is

aluminium foil on top to stop the poultice drying out (below

common on new brick walls. It is caused by salts in

right). Over a few days the paste will draw the stain out and

the bricks reacting with rainwater. Don't try to wash it

you can wash the bricks clean.

off or you will make the problem last longer. Instead,

w

brush the affected area with a dry bristle brush until it

• ^ w ¥

stops recurring. m

5F KRl■3

m

harsh

m

•l\V.

s

>«-'

M mfih-

Avoid

* sB

measures -V.

Think hard before you have the outside of your home

f

sandblasted or cleaned with acidic chemicals.

m

•v.V

m

m.

Although the results can look effective, both methods 03

are harsh because they remove a layer from the

m'-? surface of the walls. Like a piece of old furniture that l-N has been rubbed down and lost its patina, your house could lose some of its character if you try to make the

.

oi---;

?s.

St • :

m

-en

old bricks look like new.

47

m

r imS TiL -x

:

mm

' Tti

,.r

vT-^r ^Ssl

-,,'V

B» Wi

.T^ fcri-.A' -■; jm

brickwork

-v.

fc'v

Patching

ws*

91

MS ift'rw

tiWi mm

mm. t BOBS

**

2>

up

the

joints

T

v.- - ,= _ ? 7 , . - -.

CBt! n

WEATHERSTRUCK JOINT

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Make

'•P

a

mortarboard

I

M

A scrap of 6 mm or 9 mm external plywood makes a good

ftT* •:■>. • H

:?

Xf iVft

tm

mortarboard. Ideally, you want a piece about 400 x 400 mm

mi V, -, - •

r na v.

; i

(16 x PSIS

tm

FLUSH JOINT

16 in). Drill a hole for a screw in the centre of the

piece and fix it to the end of a short length of broom handle.

-**?

Hold the board tight against the wall, directly below the joint being repointed. This minimises the amount of wet mortar getting on the face of the bricks or dropping on the ground.

iBL .A:^

t?iSK^SBara

-,- >•;'-/ '• —- i 'V.lfc

':

^=sV-:v' ---

sign of subsidence. Call in a e&5 - — to tc

strips across the cracks at : •: ->

adhesive. If any strips break

9 w. ^

-.••■:- 5SS

subsidence is the likely cause.

2C -4

at

:^v "to

v

*" 3 ||

Jcf

A

hi 'u

Fill hairline cracks in rendering

-

/ -

>' -'

> >- *v

* •-■ v

TK .>.y

with a coat of exterior masonry

'

if»* ■

■n _4 K *

V

•-

1

r

4^

.

■ ^ -W-• / // / /• / 1)

and cover their heads with exterior grade filler, or with a coloured wood stopper if the boards are stained rather than painted.

cladding

Boarding

exterior

walls

Doing the

splits

To repair a split in timber cladding, lever the split B open and squeeze in some exterior PVA woodworking adhesive (left). Tape may be strong enough to hold the split closed while the glue i

dries. Otherwise, screw a small block to the board

m

below and drive a wooden wedge between it and the bottom edge of the repaired m {>:■ :

board (right).

i •If.

Removing

damaged

timber

Reaching

hidden

nails ■

Gam access to a nail

■

securing the board above

18 the one you're replacing by i driving in two wedges. Then slide in a mini-hacksaw and

mrnm . • i : v. t

cut through the nail.

•-

9 9

m wo W/'-Av mrnm wm

-f--

li i

1 m T "T .

Cutting

a

broken

board

Saw through a damaged board directly above the centre of a support batten. Drive two wooden wedges under the edge of the board 1 on either side of the batten. This provides clearance for the saw as you cut through the

54

board. Then wedge a piece of scrap wood into

'Popping'

exposed

nails

the gap so that it covers the face of the good

To remove exposed nails, use a crowbar to lever up the

board below, protecting it from the saw blade.

bottom edge of the board, resting it on a piece of scrap

Cut as far as possible with the tenon saw.

wood to protect the face of the board below. Then hold the

Then wedge up the board above the cut board

crowbar blade beside the nail head and tap it to push the

and finish the cut with a padsaw (keyhole saw).

board back and pop out the nail.

Fixing

tricks

for

a

professional

•A'/tv.. . 1

mm m

m

V-

If

•im

A spacer for an

«■ n:

m m

Efi

•V

as

m

finish

even

overlap

: WMsmlm

m ■xm

Keep the overlap of the boards the same by

; f--

>T

making a spacer from a couple of pieces of scrap

n Tful r-

ww

wood. Mark the overlap you want on the longer

.

"K.

i

Wmmm mm '^:PM

-"r7H1-'■ _ 1

h4—

ei~*h±'T* n:-

m*fx

M.k

piece and pin the smaller offcut to it.

:v: k;k-. WtMSM

Avoid

&w

stains from

rusty

nails

Use galvanised roundhead nails to fix the boards. They won't corrode and cause rust '-f-si:

41 — RVil

stains as steel nails do. Punch the nail • .Vv i heads in slightly and fill the dimple with exterior filler.

?Tr

u

5~, r K.

mmm *sM, i, M f j m sr fai. 1 .■

i ■ m' Mi r n Mm mm

1

;■

/

« i. • U,

vc. a.

li

m

;

x: 9Q

One-handed Add

some

trick

If you don't have a spare hand to hold a

insulation

If you have to strip a large area of cladding, fit sheets of

nail, tuck it firmly into the claw of the

rigid polystyrene insulation between the battens and

hammer, point facing outwards, and drive it

cover them with waterproof building paper before fitting

into the board. Then unhook the claw and

new boards.

finish driving the nail.

Avoid

Protect

a

before fixing

A support while you

start to

nail

Treat every surface of a new

If you are working on your own, bend a narrow

Replace whole boards rather

board with preservative or

strip of soft sheet metal into an S shape and

than small sections if rot is

wood primer before fixing it

hook it over the top edge of the previous board

widespread, to avoid creating

in place. This will delay the

to support one end of the next board while you

a patchwork of repairs.

onset of rot in the future.

nail up its other end. This will not work if you

patchwork

look

are fixing cladding between projecting masonry piers, however, as they will prevent you from slipping the hook out for re-use after nailing Prevent

split

ends

up each board.

You can stop the wood splitting when nailing near the end of

Use old cut pieces of board you remove from

a board by drilling pilot holes first. For fixings elsewhere, blunt

around openings, fixtures or other obstructions as

the nails first by hammering their points on concrete.

templates when cutting replacements to size.

55

- ■

- -• fi£C ■

m

m

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fl

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floors

Discover

underneath

the

what

lies

boards

•■or-

/,

Open MSSSm

the

airways

Clear rubbish from the

m

Hit M.

'l. 3iVfl

suspended timber ground

&%

>w^

m^m^A m-H SS

crawl space beneath a

i

iv

?

•r::

floor. It can block the BiiSSii

airbricks in outside walls

'''it

and obstruct the voids in

fr rg»W

the honeycombed walls

J

.>'. that support the floor

• '(-••. c:>

31

V.-

joists, preventing air from

ms^: -y

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circulating freely.

m

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is

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BB« v; ■ h.r\ •>. 52SPi®v^:*S® •• 9Sv5&

:-.J Take

a

punch

to

i'?•.*' ^T m

the

heads

-X M V .1

idS sggapi'tt mm

A squeaky board can

u ,-. s M®Si - -v misse

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cr. ,5Vi?

m

m

im

k'

•/ ! Wv

mm tv: XS^Xf.'

sometimes be cured SXfXifippilX

■•Tr.y-d

by driving the nails a ssfc-wwaij masitSSKl little deeper with a nail

■

% m

punch. Locate the punch carefully so it i.

^ ,'v

m

— i

doesn't skid off the

rr

nail and scar the board

5^:; mms&

when you strike it. Talcum powder or

'■mk. if:').

chalk dust, brushed into the joints between squeaky boards,

Exchange

usually silences them

for

nails

screws

■: d* Kti V «. .%*B,7fc < ■ ')J%-U(fCz* X,» >

temporarily.

xs

Stop squeaky boards by replacing nails with screws. Use the old nail holes and choose

Tap

a

wedge

into

a

gap

You can fill wide gaps between boards with thin lengths of square-edge moulding, bought at a timber merchant or DIY store. Plane them to a slight wedge shape, then apply a little woodworking adhesive before tapping them into the gaps, thin edge first. Plane them down to floor level when the adhesive has set, then stain them to match the boards.

60

screws the same length as the nails but thicker, so they bite into the joist but don't go any deeper. You don't want to puncture a hidden pipe or cable.

When

Ripping

the

off the

boards

have

to

be

taken

up

tongues eS*SSC*

Before lifting a tongue-and-groove (t & g) floorboard, you will a need to cut through the jointed edges. The best tool for the job is a circular saw because you can set the blade depth. Lock the depth gauge to

15 mm to avoid cutting into a joist,

Ifi! . -

pipe or cable. If you need to remove just a short length of board, a handsaw will do the job; hold it at a low angle so

M &

the blade does not project too far into the underfloor space.

'.Vrr t; % 'Stil

f..

m

1

i

i' •

£ m m i

mk

i" r-i

- •■s ■

m i m

m

v:-

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It

X

A

§ \

m

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i

■w d m&f: ir

& y ■y

tm: W -

fcv'-V'.-CV- ,

O

Crosscut

beside

a

joist

O

A floorboard saw is designed for cutting out a section of floorboard without marking the ones on either side.

tf)

Make the cut alongside a joist (look for the nailing m lines that mark the centres of the joists). Then use a straightedge and sharp trimming knife to score a guideline for the saw. Angle the saw slightly off the i vertical so that the cut is bevelled; this makes the sawn line less noticeable when the board is replaced. A jigsaw can also be used, although you will have to drill a hole through the board to admit the saw blade. Make sure there are no cables or pipes in the way of the blade.

Si

%

A

What sort

T.

of

boards?

sei a Find out whether you've got square-edged

cn-

1 xn

floorboards (butted up against one another) or tongue-and-groove ones by trying to insert the

/i f.

blade of a knife between the boards. With w/.vM'-.' s m r ; ' -. j r '

$

/

-

%: Mia

y^mm

: t

t■

M

»

square-edged boards, there won't be any obstruction. If the knife won't go down more than about 6 mm ('A in), it's because the blade has found a tongue.

m 7.

■

m

fv„: :Msa JfT-f r'-w^

Tr 1 ,s \M'V

.V'\-Vi ,h

onto

a

m W i

/ f/t/m / 1 ,/ M WmM

FJ

il

fv

tm

%

floor

Ceramic tiles can be laid over old

il '4M;

%

suspended

floorboards if the boards are covered im

mm

to

first with

15 mm exterior grade

% ■m /> m -

'ts

11 Vt

m

r • i ■ ■" wmw:. imi-f/if !■/;

m

plywood; otherwise the natural

."t (0

W/M i

-wm./

movement of the boards will cause

'k \

12

&

■ m if.I fA ». the joints between the tiles to crack.

m m d 7>

Make sure that the joists are strong enough to bear the extra weight, and

% ri;s tm T' 1

%

\

11 m

, V'. /./f,

remember that the floor level will be Irfr i

mmm

raised by the thickness of the ply,

•kk V-.-i

m.

iii

adhesive and tiles.

& . ,i

W 1% IT*

N.

x

?: *2

I

mm. fcjti

"• 'A• K Ifh V'-• mw?

r.

mm m £2 *

ff . .

T, rsA

r: tM ^S~:

>•

s •r:

. Il

miK' 5

m m

A

batten

for the

end

w

'• '• •

Screw battens to the joists to support the ends of the % replaced board. They should fit tight under the boards on

i

m m

'Vv

1

either side, to ensure the replaced board is level with its neighbours.

Tailor

boards,

not joists

If a replacement board is thicker than the Grouped

for

effect

If you are laying new floorboards right across a room and intend to varnish them, try to group the boards so that the grain pattern and colour of the wood disguises the joins.

existing ones, take the waste out of the board, not the joists. Measure the difference exactly, then use a saw and chisel to notch the underside of the board where it is supported on joists.

mmm lifiifTiMll

$&?** mm-

?■

-vscanaB

. .

Lever .

edge

boards

into

place

Leave an expansion gap of about 9 mm (3/8 in)—which be covered by the skirting board—between edge boards and

i»fe

walls. To get an edge board tight against the one next to it, insert a batten into the gap and use it to lever the board into place. Then maintain the tension on the batten by tapping a wooden wedge between it and the wall while you

I

nail the board down. i

r-. Save

the

ceiling

Old ceilings can crack when boards are nailed Driving the

boards

down on the floor above. If yours are fragile,

together tightly

screw boards down instead, countersinking the

Floor cramps can be hired for driving

screw heads and hiding them with wood plugs or

boards together tightly before nailing.

dowels if the boards are being left bare.

Alternatively, a pair of wedges can be used-either wooden ones sawn from offcuts or the tough plastic sort sold in

DIY stores. Lay three or four boards

Secret

nailing for

exposed

floorboards

loose, with the grooved edge

Tongue-and-groove floorboards can be secret-nailed, leaving the floor

exposed if they are the tongue-and-

surface unmarked by fixings. If you are laying a complete new floor,

groove type. Then nail a spare length

hire a floor nailer (below) to help you finish the job more quickly.

of board across the joists to retain the

To drive a nail from the tool's magazine, simply strike the plunger with

wedges. Tighten the boards by driving

the mallet supplied.

o

e

(A

the wedges against each other, -n

•-r

m

preferably using two hammers. m

m

£

mm

iiiill Piil £1

m

m w "v:- i'&iS': v -

Vf

.A Y:

i

ImM 'iiSi

3if m ''ia 1 mm m Ai • i. ■mk

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mi

m

m

W' SBsn

m

¥

m -Si

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down

hardboard

m *

i A.

first 1 \■ r m

The joins between floorboards can show through the surface of

mm. L mm

m

floorcoverings such as linoleum, vinyl

-ipand cork, spoiling their appearance.

Vv-W' h X mm

with hardboard after first sinking any

|

m

•A

mvt /y

O

protruding nails with a nail punch.

pins, driving their diamond-shaped

m

-•t

m

Prevent this by covering the old floor

Fix the sheets down with hardboard

■ s-

'V: V .V\ V i nW-' \. Is Sihy>'' : f-Vi

11\ Vv* V Mm T SS S#,

s ''Si,,:

1

heads in flush with the hardboard.

63

floors

and

Laying

coverings

on

concrete

boards

Combating

rising

damp

Test for

dampness

Old concrete floors were often laid straight onto the ground

If you suspect that a concrete floor is damp, try this test

and can be damp as a result. If the damp is not too bad, it

before laying a floor covering over the top. Leave a solid

may be possible to keep the floor dn/ by coating the surface

object on the floor overnight so that air can't get at the area

of the concrete with an epoxy resin or rubber/bitumen

covered; if there's a dark patch when you move it the next

coating, but have the problem assessed by an expert first.

day, there is damp in the floor. You can hire an instrument called a hygrometer to measure the moisture content of the floor. Knowing

Levelling

uneven

concrete

how damp the floor is will help you to choose the

An uneven concrete floor surface can be treated with a self-

appropriate treatment.

smoothing compound, which will raise the floor level by 10 mm (3/8 in). Remember: you need to trowel the

about

finish out quickly to achieve good results.

mam

•mi .• '"it.

//

m

. . A

V

m

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IS

■

m

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ft*

Remove

with

a

spade

A spade is a good tool for removing old floor tiles that have been stuck to the sub-floor. File a sharp edge on the blade, then slide it under the tile edges and lever them up Hire a floor-tile stripper for removing large areas of ' f>' r

' "'-

flooring. The machine has a vibrating blade that can be ' adjusted to suit the old floor covering and the strength,

^ v

a'

mmM*

of the adhesive.

Incentives for

hard

labour STAGES

Break up an old concrete floor yourself if you are having a new floor laid and want to save money. Locate water and gas

SETTING

IN

OUT

TILES

pipes before you start. Hire a concrete breaker to make the job easier; one with vibration damping will be less tiring to use and you won't get 'vibration white finger'. Wear ear defenders, work gloves, goggles and steel-toed footwear.

Conceal

board

edges

Cover old floorboards with hardboard sheets before laying vinyl on top. Condition the sheets by brushing 500 ml of water onto the mesh side of each one, then stacking them flat in the room, mesh sides together, for 48 hours. Then nail them mesh side up. 1

Snap

chalk

lines

opposite walls to Stiffen

floors

before

Cover floorboards with

tiling

between

find

centre

midpoints

of

room.

of

Check

that they cross at right angles

15 mm exterior-grade plywood

before laying ceramic or quarry tiles. Without this, the natural movement of the boards will cause the tile joints to crack. Seal the ply with wood primer first. Remember that the thickness of ply, adhesive and tile will raise the floor by up to 40 mm (1 Vi in).

Buy

all

l:

tiles together

Purchase all the floor tiles you need at the same time, and ensure that batch numbers match, otherwise you may encounter colour variations.

mi

f.'VT!,-

X-'r

"v": "mi

2 Dry-lay rows of tiles along chalk lines. Then mm

mm

adjust

- . '■ W

&

perimeter

■ :r'

s

row

m

positions

are

equal

so and

cut of

tiles

at

reasonable

room size.

Mark chosen starting point on floor m.

S3 ,o m

m

■ V-

C-'i

fC

S!-1 c

r"!

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m

z

t• Ti

i

mm m m. ;

Ma -V.

%

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i^r

WA ir.! .

' T.

J

The

r*

professionaTs tool

A notched steel trowel is well worth buying if you have a large floor to cover. It enables you to spread the adhesive much more quickly and evenly than you can with the small plastic spreader included with flooring adhesives.

3

Stick

beginning

down at

tiles

centre

in of

pyramid room

outwards towards each wall and fit border tiles

and

pattern, working

in turn. Then

cut

floors

Options

in

Buying

and

storing

sheet

and

tiles

vinyl

It takes less time to lay vinyl sheet than vinyl tiles because it doesn't need adhesive, except perhaps in doorways, or careful measurement to find the centre of the room. However, packs of tiles are easier to carry, there's less wastage and cutting mistakes are usually limited to one tile (if you make an Ml A I 'M

error when cutting vinyl • M

Flick some water over the area you are «•

' ic

3*

-*

S V. ' —-i

-l: •

going to plaster. If it soaks in quickly,

.^ .TT

■ T-VW-.

-

jt suction

..

—• •

/

the

- - ? .. -hCw.-

-

y

Reduce

»" «

'y:._

"'•A'h-'---:. - Wvi,. s

. x Tj/"-

reduce the suction by brushing some

y

m diluted PVA sealer over the surface. This

_-ir-

will also help the plaster to bond.

-

/

■

/

£11 - -_

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Keep

it

clean STAGES

The container in which you mix plaster, any implements used to mix it, and the water itself must be absolutely clean.

PATCHING

Wash and rinse between mixes, so that no lumps of setting

IN

DAMAGED

LATH-AND-PLASTER

plaster or other impurities get into the next mix. 3

Add plaster to water, not the other way round. Sprinkle the plaster in gradually and keep stirring the mix until the

TT'--TV

consistency is right.

LV o Fixing

and

damaged

ceiling

wall

surfaces

1

Hack

away

all

loose

plaster,

using

a

club

hammer and sharp brick bolster Cover-up

options for

crumbling

plaster

One way to tackle plasterwork that's in poor condition is to a

cover it up. You can fix new plasterboard over old, but you need to use long stainless-steel twinfast screws to fix the

At ::•> .

new sheets to the wall or ceiling timbers. A false ceiling can be suspended below the old one and walls can be covered r

with, for example, timber cladding fixed to battens secured to the old wall. Bear in mind that all these solutions make the room slightly smaller and lower. Even if this won't spoil the dimensions of the room, many fittings, especially electrical

2 Prime laths with a coat of diluted PVA sealer,

ones, will have to be removed and repositioned on the new

then mix up undercoat plaster

wall or ceiling surface.

£ V >v

3

Apply

undercoat

to

a

level

about

3

mm

below existing surface. Leave it to set

A

patch

on

a

string

Square off the sides of a small hole in a stud wall or ceiling / using a padsaw. Then patch the damage with an offcut of /s ooard small enough to pass through the hole on the

' A

diagonal. Thread string through its face and tie it to a nail. \lext, spread filler or a plasterboard adhesive on the outer ace of the patch and push it through the hole. Rotate it and

Y}

jull on the string so it presses against the inner face of the /vallboard. Hold the string for a short while until the filler or adhesive gets a grip. Leave it to set hard, then cut off the string and plaster over the patch.

4 Mix

up

and

apply finish

plaster. As

it

dries,

spray on a little water and then polish surface with steel float

plastering

mmm :vv; C. : :'V:

Fixing

„w-c : : . :•

iiHgii

damaged

wall

-.-t;

m

■

w;.^:r

v-

mi

r'- '

mm :r. i

and mtmi mm

ceiling

surfaces IT • >••••.'

•in

wmm :-nc

•Si:

Repair

a

damaged

corner

The easiest way to patch a damaged external corner is to use a planed timber batten as a plastering guide. Pin the batten flush to one edge of the corner with masonry nails,

si

i leaving their heads projecting so you can remove it easily. Then plaster up to the batten. When the plaster has dried, remove the batten carefully and repeat the process from Til 1

:

the other side of the corner. Finish by rounding off the new

'hi 1 V.Tr, ' 1

umv '

;-"C

i-iisc

-W

m smm

,

corner with some fine abrasive paper. ■V,

wmasm mmmm

mmmmmi JiM? T,: c--

.

•b-c-.

i§f

(V

Cut

back to

the

timbers

If you need to repair a big hole in a partition wall or ceiling, square up the damage with a multi-purpose saw, cutting back to the edges of the studs or joists on each sicfe of the hole. Nail 50 x 25 mm battens to the joists or studs, then cut a patch of plasterboard to fit and nail it to the battens. Cover all the joints with plasterboard tape before plastering over the patch. , For a ceiling patch, skew nail 50 x 50 mm square supports ili w, ■T

between the joists at each side of the hole and nail the cut edges of the existing and new plasterboard to them. m •W

m

.-i What type •y '

of

plaster?

You can apply finish plaster to minor blemishes

r :-.V

and knocks needing a layer up to 3 -

mm thick. For

deeper patches, apply an undercoat of browning plaster first. If there is any risk of dampness, use a m ye

v-.r:

render made from sand and cement with added plasticiser rather than a gypsum plaster.

• .V m

I S

i

m -T

!

Fixing

IL

bulging

plaster

On a lath-and-plaster ceiling, the plaster may sag m

T. nm

k

m

away from the laths. Vacuum up any loose plaster

Wi

in the ceiling void. Push the sagging plaster back m -■

•T

",c

mmrnMtMi C/n?fTr-."iYi^i ■ TU'

up against the laths with a piece of board and

"11 T-. - -- -

V

a prop. Return to ceiling void and pour a runny ''•d m:

mix of bonding plaster over the area, leaving the board and prop in place until the plaster has set.

72

stud

walls

Planning

the

The stud

structure

of

a

new

anatomy

of a

wall

A stud wall, also known as

wall

a timber-framed partition wall, gets its name from the vertical timbers (studs) Himmm

mm that are fitted between the

m. &

horizontal head and sole

iv.-f

plates. This simple frame-

m .

work provides a sturdy support for the sheets of plasterboard that are nailed to it. The only other

7' mmmiMD. i 1 75

components involved are

m 1 ,7:

horizontal braces called m

mm

noggings fitted between

m 7*

the studs. These stop the i;; m

studs twisting, give the plasterboard extra support and provide fixing points

1

for shelves, wall cupboards and the like. /r

If the wall includes a

mrmzi m

m W$m

door opening, the sole

SI''

s®

plate is cut away and an

&

extra nogging is fitted above u

Mi ES s

v; 7

the door to act as a lintel.

m

The door opening is lined

3

with a casing, which protects the cut edges of the plasterboard. The door is 7m then hung within the casing.

Providing

light

and

services

If you intend to build a stud wall, plan its position

Building

the

new

wa

with care and get your plans approved by your local authority to ensure that they comply with

, d . , tv-:

' Yv;,

building regulations. Bear in mind that, although each room needs natural light (unless it is a kitchen or bathroom), regulations do not allow you to erect a wall which intersects an existing

:

Sae-.

.'

window, so a new window may be needed. You will also have to arrange lighting, heating

Beware Bnfi

and

of cables

pipes

- -

m

Before drilling any holes in your walls,

and possibly plumbing in each new room. :

:-C ceilings and floors, use an electronic detector

Coping with

high

to check for hidden

ceilings

If a room is more than 2.4 m high-the length of a

electricity cables and

sheet of plasterboard—you'll need to make up the

water or gas pipes.

height with cut-to-size pieces of board. Fit extra

:V■; tSKS!

noggings between the studs to support them.

73

stud

The

walls

Building

the

new

wall

Beefing

right timber for the job

Use 75 x 50 mm sawn timber for walls up to about 2.4 m (8 ft) high. For rooms with higher ceilings, use

100x50 mm

timber. Wood shrinks as it dries, so make sure your supply

up

the

insulation

Stud walls are poor sound insulators. You can improve their performance by using 12.5 mm plasterboard instead of the standard 9.5 mm—or, better still, by using

is well seasoned. If it is not, the resultant shrinkage in the

a double layer of 9.5 mm boards. Fix the second layer

structure can cause cracks to appear in the plaster, where the

with 50 mm nails and stagger the joints so they don't

stud wall meets the adjacent wall and ceiling surfaces. Check

coincide with those in the first layer. After cladding one

also that all the wood you buy is straight (see page 339); you cannot build a satisfactory stud wall with warped timber.

side of the wall, jam

100 mm thick glass-fibre insulation

batts between the studs, then clad the second side.

iitfiil Choose

the

best fixings

L'; N r'lv

To minimise the risk of cracking existing ceiling plaster by

liil ''■m as iill

hammering, use screws rather than nails to secure the head

A handy

plate to the ceiling joists and the sole plate to the floor joists.

Nail an offcut of wood

No. 10 screws 3V2 in long are ideal.

temporarily to the sole

Fasten the end studs to masonry side walls with

100

block

K

t , -•*

Vi

fhn

plate to hold each stud in 'K

mm long frame fixings or 4 in No, 10 screws and wall plugs.

position while you skew

Then use

nail it in place.

100 mm round wire nails to skew nail the rest of

mi

the studs to the head and sole plates, and to secure the noggings and other frame members, such as door casings.

o

Finding the joists Secure the head and sole plates to each joist they cross. Locate the floor joists by looking for the lines of nails in the boards. The ceiling

•' £

joists always run in the same direction as the floor joists; you can locate these initially by tapping the ceiling surface (a dead sound

\

T

indicates a joist), then more accurately by making test drillings or using a joist detector.

•p

If the new wall runs parallel to the joists, position it so it stands on top of a joist. You might need access to the ceiling void above so you can insert noggings and screw the head plate to them if ceiling and floor joists are not exactly aligned.

.5

■m m'-T.V;

m -•W

4-.:. m .v 'T^MBrraBntl Mr m

Bracing the

y-'-

studs

with

noggings

% Stagger noggings that are acting solely as braces for the studs so you can nail through the side of the stud into the end of each one. If the noggings must be in line-to provide a fixing for a row of cabinets, for example-cramp a block to the stud under each nogging to support it as you skew nail it in place.

Leave

clear

stud

marks STAGES

When all the studs are in place, mark their centre lines on the ceiling and floor along both sides of the wall as a guide

IN

ASSEMBLING

THE

when nailing on the plasterboard. FRAMEWORK

Room

for

manoeuvre

Don't drive the fixing screws fully home into the sole plate until the first stud is in position and you've checked whether it is truly vertical with a spirit level. If it's not, you can then adjust the sole plate position before driving in the screws. On solid ground floors, drill clearance holes

1

through the sole plate but don't fix it down until

of head plate on ceiling. Screw plate to joists

Use an offcut to mark position of each end

you've positioned the first stud on top of it and checked that it's vertical. Then you can drill and plug the holes in the floor and fix it in place.

Vary the

spacing

If you are fixing

Supporting

12.5 mm

heavy

weights T•

plasterboard, or using a

Plan the exact position of a

double thickness of the

heavy fixture, such as a wall

thinner 9.5 mm board,

cupboard or a washbasin,

space the studs at 600 mm

as you assemble the wall

2 Use plumb line to position sole plate directly

(2 ft) centres. If you're using

framework. Then you can

below, then screw it to floor. Screw end studs

a single thickness of 9.5 mm

include extra studs or

to side walls of room

board, space the studs at

noggings to support it before

400 mm (16 in) centres.

you nail up the plasterboard.

Running

cables

and

pipes

Drill holes through the centres of the studs and noggings to run cables and pipes vertically and horizontally within m

the wall. Don't run cables and pipes through the same holes, though.

iSfO

Mount sockets and light switches

3

Use

offcut to

on special plastic mounting boxes

fit studs

mark stud

positions.

Cut an

that fit flush in a hole cut in the *2^ brb.-m;:

plasterboard. You can get single and double boxes. a ■.

.v>

V

xa

Run electric cables inside PVC conduit clipped to the studs and / noggings if the wall cavity will be filled

ammam -&

with insulation. This will prevent them

/

from overheating. Cut notches for waste pipes Drill a hole, then saw out the wedge (left). Replace the cut-out

£r\

mm

or fit bridging pieces to strengthen

4

Insert noggings for stiffness and

the wood.

door openings

cas

-

Handling

plasterboard

m

Basic

requirements

There's more to plasterboard than meets the ■r:;; r

'(■eye. For lining ceilings and cladding stud walls,

iv.

UVv -

Cf'.™ -

you need standard plasterboard. This has one

.: /■

side faced with smooth ivory-coloured paper and MSSSMmil the other with rougher grey paper. Tapered■jf-' 7F

edged boards allow you to tape and fill the

':

.■ r-v;:;

nn

■ i - -—

Mis*. J.'l#

&

joints between boards neatly (see pages 79-81). 7 The standard thickness is 9.5 mm, but

i

12.5 mm mmmm

boards are also available. a K ■

• I

Special

i/

situations

There are several types of plasterboard made for special purposes. Foil-backed boards are designed '

to stop water vapour passing through wall and ceiling surfaces-for example, into a loft, where it could cause condensation and make the roof k

timbers rot. Boards backed with a layer of expanded polystyrene provide insulation for

fT

dry-lining cold external walls that are liable to

mm

condensation.

c

Standard

board

sizes

The standard 2400 x 1200 mm board size is .. .. !

convenient to use because the ceiling height in many houses is just under 2400 mm. However, sheets of this size are quite heavy and difficult to manoeuvre in tight spaces, and they can be easily damaged if they are knocked or bent, so get help when moving

m or fixing them. Smaller size boards are also available and are ideal for repair work.

. I; , ft; Smaller for

Mm!

ceilings

Small boards called plasterboard lath, measuring

1200x400 mm,

I r,*

%

are ideal for ceilings because

T"they are much easier to handle than full-sized boards when

VJy m

urn m i

working overhead. The rounded edges are strengthened by the plaster skim and the joints don't

m .. r.

WM WM ■

.--jj.

mmmp k: .'-4 .

- C '>

f-r v"

'i-'4,

' V,

.

i

•A

'

if

Give

warmth

to

walls

RJ. A plasterboard lining on a solid outside wall

;£3>s>> ■c

m

walls

i. ^ 90.

i

. If you scrape it on the bucket, you'll end up with

Plasterboard

■vyz

j provides extra insulation. Use foil-backed board to

Wx V •.

>'rv.

AS;

prevent condensation. Traditionally timber battens

'il

M

a m*

are put up first, and the boards nailed to them but so long as the wall is straight and flat, you can apply a series of dabs of plasterboard bonding

■Mmi mm*

AC

p&tts

au !& /r m Sv m. m

compound to the wall or board (depending on "c. *551:. rT;

-A KB

>

the manufacturer's recommendations), then press the boards into place.

» ,

IBE

g» >-y

£2

Horizontal bands of the bonding compound §»s spread along the top and bottom of the wall

e''W-$'}

reduce the airflow, improving the insulation, and 1^

R v-l "l

'A

provide a solid base for fixing skirting boards and

:'A 1

s •••••

nes cornices. Insert wedges at the bottom of the SiSii ■-^//r ftu

M - i 'V ' " -a:

m

,

c

sheets of board to keep them tight to the ceiling

m

-' while the compound dries.

■'•■'a A'-y Cft m

an

3W

m

•: '-.r

and make a mark on

I

sm -V»* p S$s^v>i5

■ j;

the floor wherever its

Cut sheet of board about 13 mm (V2 in) less '

bottom end projects

than floor to ceiling height. Start fixing boards

beyond the first line.

in a corner

Draw a second line parallel to the first one

(J

through the outermost of these marks. Fix the floor-level "O batten so its outer face is aligned with the outer line. Fix the \ vertical battens so their faces align with the batten at floor level, using packing where necessary. Finish off by fixing a tf) \

horizontal batten at ceiling level.

A ;

T; :L

m ",r:v .■Twti ->w

1 1

-.:Tv -

'

Use

frame fixings

The quickest way of fixing

2

Fix

board

battens is to use frame

studs,

fixings—all-in-one screws and

noggings fitted

to

tight

head

to

and

ceiling. sole

Nail

plates

to

vertical

and

to

any

or

o

wall plugs (see page 350). v/'A-': ;,W

m mi

m

.i

Drill holes through the : ; t-. .< battens and use them as a

.i P

template to drill into the wall. Insert the fixing and hammer 1

i

the screw home. ■ >; Drive

vsBStiz:

keeping

' rim. r. PsjyJe ryViF* H

Frame

ttiyM

reveals

window

nails in them

roughly every

at

least

9

mm

150

mm

(Ve in)

(6 in),

in

from

board edges. Tape all joints

Fix battens all round 1

:

4 it* i-ill

window and door openings to support the board edges.

IR"' 1:Li *

Make sure they align with sa ^f#'4 mm' 'Ik - ■ H i • MM -■K'.

the other battens horizontally

v

and vertically, and use packing where necessary.

4 Apply joint filler over tape and

use

it to fill

nail holes too

81

■ V.„ 1 m

y-

m

HANDRAIL The

weight-and-listen

test

Ask someone to walk slowly up and down the stairs when you want to locate creaking steps from inside an understairs cupboard. As the other person presses down on the treads, you can often see them flex slightly, as well as hear which joints are creaking.

BALUSTERS

C

t

[

NEWEL POST

p-

STRING

\

Bfi H

P

QUARTER SPACE LANDING

J

;
■~Ki® :

'•"v^

mitre angle (above).

' I(

mm —: ■ •-. ■"

Hold each board in place, mark its face where it crosses this mitre angle line and its back where it touches the corner of the wall. Extend the marks all round the boards and cut the mitres.

Inconspicuous joins When you need to join two lengths of moulding along a wall, make a scarf joint by cutting the two ends at 45° angles. You

Piaster

practice

can do this accurately using a jigsaw with an adjustable sole

Always saw fibrous plaster mouldings

plate (top). Fix one length in place, then position and fix the

from the face side, so that any 'breaking

other (above). Apply some woodworking adhesive to the cut

out' occurs on the back. If the moulding

ends and secure the joint with pins. Try to position it where it

has a hessian backing, cut through it with

not be seen-behind furniture, for example.

a sharp trimming knife. Mitre cut internal and external corners with a hardpoint saw, then drill clearance holes for

Guard

against

inaccuracy

the screws being used to secure the

If the floor slopes, do not match the height of a dado or

mouldings to the wall, otherwise they will

picture rail to it. Either hire a laser level (see page 330), or

crack the plaster when they are tightened.

mark the height of the moulding at one point only, then use

Seal the joints with plaster of Paris or a

the longest spirit level you can obtain to transfer the mark all

suitable filler, and sand smooth when dry.

around the room. Compensate for any slight inaccuracy in the level by turning it end over end as you go.

Bl Making

mitres

easy

A bench hook is a simple piece of equipment for s 7-:.

holding small pieces of wood steady while you saw them. By making accurate 45° saw slots in

\ - ,

Si ' rTCT'?.

the block screwed to its back edge, you can turn it into a mitre block that's ideal for cutting neat mitres on small panel mouldings and picture rails. A deep mitre box is useful for cutting skirting m ",r-

boards. Make it up from offcuts, slightly deeper than the height of the skirting board. For accuracy,

iissiii r-W1 cut the 45° slots in each side of the box with a

^^,v:

panel saw (see page 332) rather than a tenon

••• >••.'■ r-

saw. Stiffen the box by nailing or screwing a _ 9 couple of battens across the top at each end.

■—

./•

3

s

o

f

rs.'. -. 1tT' -

&

«•

■

am

m 9Q

r -

accurate 90° sawn end to trace the

to cut on the pulling stroke, so that the

The professional way to join mouldings

profile of the moulding onto the back

face of the moulding is not spoiled by

at inside corners is to butt one length

of the length you want to scribe (left).

splintering. The straight section of the

against the wall and scribe the second

Reverse the blade in a coping saw to

line can be squared onto the front of

one over it. Use an offcut with an

cut along the line (right). This enables it

the board and cut with a tenon saw.

Inside

knowledge

Ways

of

fixing V>'

■;- •V-r-vjyl*: • J.

mr*x

to Wa ■'M Wooden

wedges

for

nails

wm Mmmi

c-

A

-N\V:

m

B1 M

mi

mm. - i '. i

1

mi K

Fix skirting board to brickwork by nailing it to wooden m .-J -1 '// ''

wedges, driven into every fourth vertical joint. Make

p w

the wedges by chopping opposing tapers on the ends

m • - f.vr

•i —

■- i J -Ti ' ■~ *r PtoBiaH

of lengths of 75 x 25 mm timber, using a sharp

..

carpenter's axe. Choose pieces of wood at least 400 mm long so your hand is well out of the way of the axe. Drive the wedges into the brick joints and saw off flush with the wall.

.rafflw :

87

rff6! ■ ra

-

s1 m Ways

Too

hard

for

masonry

of

fixing

f,

i

nails?

Masonry nails are the quickest way of fixing skirting boards, but m try driving one into the wall first. They are easy to hammer into r-

m

the lightweight blocks used to build the interior walls of most modern houses, but it can be hard or impossible to get them into old bricks. Make sure you wear goggles, because the nails can ricochet if they're not struck squarely with the hammer.

L-.-

Backing CFILINC

c

3 •• /

7 \ /

/

/

blocks for

cornices

Nail

architraves

at the

top

Wooden cornicing is difficult to

Secure the mitre joints on architraves

locate accurately. Rip a square-

around door and window frames by

sectioned length of wood, say

nailing them together. Drive the nails

a 50 x 50 mm piece, diagonally

through the top piece, or head, where

to make triangular fillets.

they won't be seen, rather than through

Cut short blocks off the fillets

the side pieces, or legs, It's a good

and fix these along the junction

idea to drill pilot holes for the nails,

of the wall and ceiling. Hold

otherwise you're likely to split the wood

the cornicing in place against

when you hammer them down.

BACKING BLOCK

c

WOODEN CORNICE

3

the blocks and nail it to them.

Use

your weight Press the bottom edge of new

SB

skirting board tight down to the floor before nailing it,

mmBmm

A

crafty

quirk

by using a kneel board.

Nail through the

This is simply a piece

grooves and hollows

of floorboard or similar

of mouldings, especially

r. *

size timber, about

1.2 m

(4 ft) long, propped on the

if they're being varnished Once the nail heads

top edge of the loose skirting

are punched in and

board. Press down on it with

filled over, they'll be

one knee while fixing the

almost invisible.

skirting to the wall with nails or screws into wall plugs. On wooden floors that are

TV

' m m

Before going to a timber merchant

block into the floor against the

or architectural salvage yard for

time you move it along the

-.i.

replacement moulding, it's a good idea to record its shape. The best

wall. This traps the board

tool for the job is a profile gauge, a

so that it cannot slip

comb-like tool composed of sliding

-

plywood across the window frame until you can replace the glass.

'M

:»■

■VRMaKaMh

mm

vtmn .

m

Protection

St.

from

cuts

Always wear thick leather shoes when

Hi .#■ r"' mSmm trnk ?mKbm 1 m MM : ' " O' ■ wr-r, mm

mmhj 'u

removing a broken pane or cutting glass,

■

in case a jagged piece falls on your foot. i-

Protect your hands and eyes by wearing heavy gloves and safety spectacles

v-

or eoeeles.

m.

* 'Tim w r&m mSMM wm

f

The

best

glass

for

M m 1

m

the

m. i

■'L, rt •'ta.

Light

job

and

privacy

Choose patterned (obscured) glass where you need to let light in but at the same time retain your privacy-in bathroom windows and glazed front m doors, for example. =■-

Safe

and

secure

i i i-

lit

Use safety glass in doors and for any fixed panes

i prone to impact damage. m

m :S;

mm

-■V

h7

mm

rUv.

■iii m

:V

1 W.V IK* memmm,

M

Toughened glass shatters into harmless granules if broken. It must be ordered to size because it can't be cut or drilled once it has been made. Laminated glass, which can be cut in the usual way, is made of two layers of glass sandwiching a

Tape

a

cracked

pane

plastic interlayer. It cracks but doesn't fragment

If glass is cracked but intact, crisscross the pane with

because the interlayer holds the pieces together.

masking tape to lessen the risk of flying shards when you

It also makes good security glazing.

break it, then use a hacking knife to remove the putty.

Safety wired glass is often used in fire doors to

Break the pane from inside with a hammer and a block of

reduce the rate of spread of fire. It should not be

wood. Lift out large shards first, then chip out and remove

confused with ordinary wired glass, which has little

the smaller pieces.

security value.

amp

C',

Kfi

V

i*

-!•:iifl -tiiy.

-i'

: i .rrf-f 5^

K m

il

JSSti s^i ,

i

m &

BE

5^^i^Wi.'aiaE" WW"-- "i Mi

• Wjsz£ P#i

'••»

'

Cover with

w

'Vv

safety film

You can make conventional glass in high-risk areas safer by 3^

MSiT^x

covering it on the inside with a special strong self-adhesive g

ii ---

-y.

m

fi'sw % «>-

m

plastic film which holds it together if broken.

»a

m

$ . Tf^w w, £ M&t "' •* ^ -WSmpsSm mt? ';S5*SpiJn ^■Vl&r —■• .... ..

WIRED CLASS - ■■

mmm.

; ^5

105

glazing

Choose

Keeping

Watch

extra

the

heat

in

and

Secondary

weight

noise

out

choice

efficiency

Replacing existing glass with

Fit secondary glazing for thermal insulation inside

Fitting sealed double-glazed

double glazing means

windows that are an irreplaceable part of the

units in any window will

doubling the weight of any

building's architecture, such as leaded lights or

reduce heat losses.

opening casements. You may

Thirties-style curved steel windows. It can be set

Cut these even more by

have to fit stronger hinges to

close to the glass to leave a

specifying the use of low-

carry the extra load if the

emissivity glass in any new

casements sag and bind.

units you are ordering.

If you have sash windows,

Its thin metallic surface

the sashes will be carefully

coating helps to reflect heat

counterbalanced by matching

narrow internal sill.

t weights. Putting in double-

back into the room. It also reflects away heat from the

glazing units will make the

sun, reducing unwanted

sashes difficult to open-and

heat gain in the room

to keep open-unless you

*

72

sr

- :• without cutting the level of

replace the weights with

light it receives.

heavier ones.

tmt

, v.

&

7 Step

into

the

frame

n

7]

on

If existing window frames are sound but their glazing rebates r

■7 are too shallow to accept standard square-edges units, you \r1 77

can overcome the problem by

\

fitting so-called stepped units instead. With Roofing with

these, the outer layer

plastic

Pick polycarbonate sheeting for roofing conservatories.

of glass sits in the STEPPED

IT It is light but strong, and current types neither discolour

glazing rebate as a

in sunlight nor become brittle with age. The triple-wall

single pane does, /

version has two layers of enclosed cells for insulation,

while the body of / the unit fits within

so it keeps in heat more effectively than the original

X

twin-walled product with its single layer of cells. It is

the casement LTM.VX

frame. Order them

even stronger and more rigid too. 7

made to measure from

/ /

a glass merchant.

/

Measure

Soaking

up

the

and

sound

Double-glazed units keep out traffic and aeroplane noise

cut

with

confidence

better than single glazing-but not much better. For effective

106

sound insulation you need secondary glazing—an additional

Measuring

for

new

glass

glass layer inside the existing glazing and up to 200 mm

When sizing old windows for new glass, measure the

(8 in) away from it. Since the inner panes must be openable

height and width of the openings at several points in case

for ventilation, and as a means of escape, they are usually

they're not exactly square. Then size the glass according to

fitted into a sliding track mounted within the window opening.

the smallest dimensions. Deduct a fitting and expansion

For optimum performance, the secondary glazing should

allowance of 3 mm from the exact width and height of

use glass of a different thickness from the existing glazing, and

openings when you are cutting the glass yourself, but if

acoustic tiles should be stuck to the top, bottom and sides of

you're ordering it, give the glass merchants the tight

the window opening between the two layers of glazing.

measurements and let them make the allowance.

I-,

B

Protect your

hands

Glass can break under its own weight, so always carry it on edge-but not tucked under your arm, which is dangerous. MS Wear leather work gloves, and to cushion your palms even more slit two short lengths of garden hose and slip them over the edge of the glass where you are going to grip it.

m*

.!■ I }: —

E^-

-m

^lf, m-

;r-

si rC-' -w'

'Ir^^ I .1'

glass to discolour and

IcM ^: • s* -fly C • - V' - C t) ' V;' - A- •' '

. -

*1« v d/,: • iy.', r. - v'" 1 ;■ i • ,

ii v.

n'V,

f-C" P/il

Bridge l;|

'

f^| f: ; ; • :M

"

y"

plastic fittings

If you use any plastic fittings on metal pipe runs, these will ...

* I

break the earth continuity (see page

i

120). It is vitally

important to bridge every plastic fitting. Attach earth clamps to the pipes on either side of the fitting and link them with a

«; i short length of 4 mm2 earth cable; unless all metal supply pipework is bonded to earth, there is a risk of severe electric shock if an electrical fault occurs and makes the pipe live.

wm imMm

Allow for

space

expansion

'mm IS

Plastic waste pipes expand as r

hot water runs through them,

?mm mm m

so you need to make an allowance for this. If you are

*

using compression or push-fit fittings, make up each joint mm and then pull each pipe out

%

of the fitting by about 3 mm

% 'K-?1

rv

I

5*

(Vs in). With rigid solvent-weld fittings, fit a flexible expansion coupling in the pipe run about every 2.4 m (8 ft).

r

K

Line

up

the joints

m

When making up a run of pipework with solvent-weld joints, assemble the run dry rfirst of all and make sure the joints line up, especially elbows and tees. Make small pencil marks on both pipe and H -c

.

"

fitting at every joint to help you to align them correctly as you weld them together.

124

STAGES

SOLVENT

IN

WELDING

JOINTS

,1 ■ rrr

mm n

i-cv!

s;V

',>• ■- ■ (im&'MWm mm mmm m v.

m

1 r--.: m

Assemble joint dry, and

on

m-r

both

make register mark

pipe and fitting if precise joint align-

:

:

ment is essential i mm* 1'

\

B•1.

1

R //

^2

2

-r. " 5&aE~ &• ^

Roughen

end

of

pipe

and

inside

of fitting

with medium-grade abrasive paper » «

.■

•>■1

i

«K mmm mm &X~ir m.

mm wss

%

: -«■

/

-->

Easy assembly

3

Brush

solvent-weld

cement

into

Make compression and push-fit joints on waste

taking care not to get any on outside

fitting,

pipe runs easier to assemble by chamfering the cut end of each pipe slightly, so it slips into the O-ring inside the fitting without snagging on it. Smear a little silicone grease on the end of the pipe so it slides into the fitting more easily.

Choosing

plastic

Some plastic pipes can be used for domestic hot and cold-water supplies. Look for polybutylene (Hep20) pipe and cross-linked polyethylene (PEX pipe). These pipes are flexible, and because they are available in relatively long lengths (Hep20 comes in coils too), you do not need many joints. Connections can be made with standard brass compression fittings or with special plastic push-fit ones.

4

Push

and

pipe

align

into

register

for 10 seconds

fitting, marks.

give

it

Then

a

slight twist

hold

joint

still

Stop

pipes

Fixing

leaks

leaks with

Leave

tape

m 8ii i

■

in

-h Si®

be contained with self-

If you accidentally put a nail

amalgamating tape. Turn

through a pipe while fixing

off the water, then wrap the

floorboards, leave the nail

tape tightly around the pipe

where it is. It will form an

like a bandage. It will knit

almost perfect seal while

together to form an

you turn off the water and

effective seal.

drain the pipework ready

■ •i.

m

v-.-.-jVi-rSsa

BMmM . :

1

m BV

for repair.

•

!>K m

■

V

Lli

-rv^:a?ir« -. '•' saSM

rt/

1. »i L-K, ; '-;•/ i..k '.4vfe ■ '•-- * • ':••;• :'•""

,.-n"

si&l £•:= VtfiP-v • * t^?s^2 ;

Imm ■ mi-W'-Ymmm my tesJtSITfiS'itei mmmmm

&M

.

■^mSm mmM^] '£pp&M&-Si ,V ' 'ii_ :

|r •'* j' > HBHSiKi'i''i

: (?-■ .!• ■-;• f.--...•

place

-•jm

- .

nail

Small leaks in pipes can

* I '

n.'p-

the

m

-My'mmm

':y

f

^

Quick fix for

a

■mmmBtrnm, - ""

-aii. wtmrc

yy

ismimmm. i

/ : Vmw-i f'i m

tmm iiesiissi*

mm

leaking fitting

If you need to stop a leak without dismantling the fitting, use

m PlSpl

ppii a

warn an external leak sealer. Epoxy resin repair putty sets quickly

1

but is very difficult to remove later. Silicone paste sealant is

SI

better if the fitting is a compression type. Turn off the water,

w ''pt

'd'- yj

Wi r^'j

it as

SftlliiSSSro

I

I"-.-, •. ici.rr-i

t,

-"^r- .•

»

fmrnsmi :, 1 1 • «' < i • •:: € 1 i.'.djy-d . '■/vriVrr&

d

7.iyVv'F^yT^;>,d c.sPSiili ■ ^ ...

iSM Sli 5-tt

undo the fitting and warm the pipe slightly to dry it out.

MfS

m ssw^

clamp

Keep a proprietary pipe clamp (above) in your tool kit for

jgffi

emergencies. It can be fitted to a burst pipe in seconds with ITO just a screwdriver. For a temporary solution use a piece of i

^

ys garden hose and some hose clips or strong wire. First turn

■V! ■y

off the water. Split the hose, fit it over the pipe and secure •e with the hose clips or loops of wire, twisted tight with pliers.

i&ryv

.

Freeze Wrap

a

burst

pipe

A pipe-freezing kit lets you repair a burst pipe

around

If a compression fitting still drips after you've tried tightening

without having to turn the water off and drain

the nuts, dismantle it and start again. Turn off the water and

down the system. Flatten the pipe upstream of

drain the pipe. Then undo the nuts and slip the pipes out of

the damage to stop the flow, then freeze the pipe

the fitting. Wrap the brass olives with two turns of PTFE tape.

a little farther upstream. Make sure you have

Then reassemble the fitting and tighten the nuts.

replacement pipe and fittings to hand. Cut out the damaged section downstream from the frozen zone and make the repair as quickly as you can.

Flux for flow If you get a leak from a soldered joint, drain the

126

pipe and use heat from your blowlamp or hot-air

Turn

the

nuts

gun to dry it out thoroughly. Feed a little self-

When a compression fitting starts to leak, try tightening each

cleaning flux into the warmed joint. Then reheat the

nut very slightly. Don't tighten it by more than a quarter turn,

joint to melt the existing solder. The flux will help it

because you might squash the olive inside and make the

to flow into the gaps and seal the joint properly.

leak worse.

c

INDICATOR DISC

3

taps

c

Getting

at

the

works

RETAINING SCREW

Plug

HANDLE

in

first

Removing the

Before starting to dismantle a tap, turn off its water

handle

supply and put the plug in the plughole. This will

Some tap handles can

prevent any small parts you might drop from

be pulled off, but most

disappearing into the trap beneath the appliance.

have a small screw to

J

V

retain them. Look for it SHROUD

c

on the side of a

3 Washers

C

SPINDLE

c

or

discs?

traditional

(cross-top)

Traditional taps have a mechanism that moves a

tap handle. On a

rubber washer against or away from the water inlet

modern shrouded-head

to stop or start the flow. Many modern taps contain

tap, it is usually beneath

a pair of ceramic discs with holes through them,

the hot/cold indicator

one of which rotates to control the flow. Turn the

disc. Gently prise this off

tap on fully to find out which type you have.

to reveal the screw,

A ceramic disc tap needs just a quarter turn, a

which may also retain a

traditional tap at least two turns.

small washer.

)

HEADGEAR Reverse the washer If you don't have a suitable replacement tap washer,

1 ' •7 m

C

TAP WASHER

remove the old one, turn it

I V*

over and refit it. It will last a

)

little longer, until you have %

a chance to get a new one of the correct size.

Soften

the

bite

When dismantling •« JliSrl Turn

on

the

c

SPACER WASHER

chrome or gold3 plated taps, it's a

heat

Play a hot-air gun over a

good idea to wrap

stuck tap shroud to

the jaws of your

warm it up. This should

adjustable spanner (h EADGEAR

make the metal expand

)

PVC insulating tape to

il

and break the grip of

with a few turns of

the threads. If it doesn't,

stop them damaging

squirt a little silicone

the plating.

lubricating fluid into the

i

thread. You might need

tr'

to repeat the heating

c

TAP WASHER

and lubricating once or twice before the thread

c

TAP TAIL

-

is freed. Don't try this on taps fitted to a plastic basin or bath, however, as the heat could

r rM

damage it.

TAP TAIL

)

127

taps

Getting

at

the

works

When is

the

handle

stuck

If the cross-top handle won't come off an old fashioned shrouded tap, you might be able to remove it by using its shroud to push it off. Remove the screw securing the handle to the spindle and turn the tap on fully. Loosen the shroud and insert a thin spanner round SS 1: '•

the headgear nut. Then turn the tap handle to off; T: this action should jack the handle off the spindle.

.

" .-C-T

Keep

some

spares

Tap washers are very cheap, so you can afford m

;h to keep a supply in your

XT Hfi

m tool kit. They are still

'mm

made in just two imperial B sizes—Vi in and V4 in. m The larger size fits bath taps, the smaller size everything else.

Fitting

a

new

washer

Bed

in

an

insert Try

a

domed

washer

If a domed

If the seating (the water inlet inside the tap against which

washer doesn't

the washer closes) is worn, a standard washer may not

do the trick,

make a watertight seal against it. Try fitting a domed

the seating is

washer instead. This sits inside the seating and effectively

probably badly

changes the sealing point. The only drawback is that it takes

corroded. Buy

several more turns than usual to open the tap fully for a fast

a nylon insert to

flow rate.

push into the

WASHER

yyT

■ • •: NYLON INSERT

SEATING

tap seating and give the washer Dissolve

128

scale

a new surface

hTOj

The most common cause of jammed headgear nuts in

to seal against.

:

hard-water areas is limescale. Once you have removed the

If you cannot

headgear, soak the threaded parts in vinegar, lemon juice

bed the insert all the way into the seating by hand,

or a proprietary scale remover to dissolve the scale. Smear

replace the headgear and turn the tap on and off a

some silicone grease on them to lubricate and protect them

few times (before turning the water back on). This

before you reassemble the tap.

push the insert evenly into place.

a •*0^

Stop

mmS'i

weeping

■ •

When water oozes up from round the spindle of a tap, the packing gland mmm§m round it is faulty. You don't have to turn the water off to fix this. Tighten the small hexagonal gland nut on the top of

Protect the

the headgear by half a turn. If the leak

Remove the brass headgear from the tap body by turning it anticlockwise

persists, remove the gland nut and pack

with a spanner. As you do so, brace the tap with a piece of wood so that it cannot

in some RIFE tape pulled into a string.

rotate, otherwise the connection between the tap and the pipework may be

Replace the nut and test the tap.

damaged. Allowing the tap to rotate could also result in a cracked ceramic fitting.

Replacing

pipework

and

ceramic ware

■o

O-rings

l/l

Take

it with

you

The diverter on a shower mixer tap will

,7^. \

drip if the O-rings and washers inside

■PI

I

.

are worn. To replace them, you will

m have to remove the diverter by turning &

to 711^. mm® ■

off both taps then raising the diverter knob and undoing the headgear nut with a spanner. Take the complete unit ■ ■

with you to a plumbers' merchant so you can be sure of obtaining the correct

- v,

m

replacement O-rings and washers. Spouting

off

Swivel-spout mixers use one or two ■c linging the

T:

changes

lodern taps have O-rings instead of a acking gland. Remove the headgear, old it securely in one hand and turn le spindle clockwise to unscrew and ;move the washer unit. Prise off the Id O-ring with a small screwdriver and : a new one after smearing it with a tie silicone grease.

O-rings to seal the join between spout and tap body. If they are worn, water

i will ooze out between the two. To remove the spout, locate and remove the grub screw behind it if there is one. Otherwise turn the spout so it's parallel with the tap body and pull it sharply upwards. Remove the worn O-ring(s) and fit same-size replacement(s), applying a little silicone grease first.

129

taps

Changeover

time

Measure Swapping

supplies

the

two

■w

tails

Look at the two inlet pipes on a

Baths, basins and sinks usually have the hot tap on the

monobloc basin or sink mixer tap before

left and the cold tap on the right. If yours are the other

fitting it. If they're

way round and you find this confusing, undo the tap

diameter, you'll need reducing adaptors to

connectors and cut back the supply pipes by

connect them to the hot and cold supplies.

150 mm

10 mm or

12 mm in

(6 in) or so. Attach a flexible pipe and tap connector to

But if the pipes are expanded to

each pipe, then link each connector to the correct tap.

then standard

Swap over the hot and cold indicators on the tap handles.

will do the job.

15 mm,

15 mm straight coupling

# J

c

HOT TAP

( COLD TAP )

)

/

Check the * #•

*♦

spacing

When replacing a two-hole mixer tap on an old sink, you may

*«. find that the distance between the holes doesn't match the standard separation to which modern mixer taps are made. If this is the case, riF •

ask your plumbers' merchant for mixer taps with cranked swivel tails which can cope with a range of non-standard hole separations.

i ti

Made [3J1

for

mains

Most imported taps are designed to operate at

m

m.. wm

r

& i r

mains pressure, so do not

j■ COLD

;

fit them on appliances

SUPPLY PIPE supplied by low-pressure water from a cold-water

Off with

the

old

c

HOT SUPPLY PIPE tank or a hot-water cylinder.

Replacing old taps means

Water will merely trickle

disconnecting the supply pipework

from them.

from the tap tails, which can be difficult (see page

140), For a

start, you have to work in a confined space, and the tap

Pick

a

longer

spout

If you are choosing a sink

connector may be corroded. Apply

mixer tap to serve a sink with

some penetrating oil to the tap

two bowls, pick one with a

connector nuts, leave it for a while

130

f,

spout that projects by 230 mm

to soak into the threads, then use

rather than the standard

a crow's-foot spanner (also called

180 mm to make it easier to

a basin wrench) to undo the nuts.

a kettle or pan.

.

m. ' ''.' • .'iV ■(-v. •t"f» N i 'V ^Hi

V "-CT^ m*

r-.

& A &J ' tJ/ // mu.

Wv^w wm

x m:


■v.1"

i

mh ms

i

m

L ; |

M2 m

Gently

does

7

I

it

fi'.

2

Brace valve/body so votTdon't bend supply

Open a radiator air vent by at most half a turn anticlockwise.

pipe. Undo coupling nut and let water run out

Undo it further, and you might drop and lose the tiny needle

of radiator

that seals the vent. Hold a cloth

under the vent (top) or use

a combined bleed screw and container (above) to catch the 7

r

water. Close the vent when water starts to run out.

f

■ m. Water

shortage y?

If no water emerges from a radiator when you open the

3

air vent, then the hole may

When

be blocked, or the system

Clean

as

a

new

pin

may be short of water.

To unblock an air vent, turn

Open it

air

ventlto jppfed

stops,

undo

up

flo^of

coupling

nuts

water.

fully

on

both valves

\ Try bleeding another radiator

off the radiator valves. Then

on the same floor. If this has

open the vent with the key;

water in it, you can return to

remove the small needle

the original radiator and set

and put it in a safe place.

about unblocking the hole,

Use a thin piece of stiff wire

if no water comes out of the

to clear the hole in the body

7

IV7-

... A

second radiator, then check

of the vent by pushing any

that there is water in the

obstruction back into the

feed-and-expansion tank.

radiator. Replace the needle

4 Lift radiator off wall brackets and empty out

Refill it if it has run dry by

and reopen the radiator

any

pressing down the arm of

valves. Water should now

cloth

the float valve.

flow out through the vent.

taking it aside

remaining into

the

water. outlets

Stuff to

tissue

stop

paper

drips

or

before

radiators

Draining

the

if-?

.

KvSf

m

.v.

W&9

1 Keep

it

healthy :;Ac:at

A:5

m

r i -'Ay m

— m m mi • /

•rry

system

M m

5¥? m

^4, :.;'y

■V

iffi

-.

Keep a sealed heating

^

0* 3$

system healthy by m adding a chemical

•i ■ !i£

corrosion and scale

B

. ,

..V

inhibitor to the water. As there is no feed-

'■'Dd.

-.TV

•N-.f

V- ,'r TV . ■

and-expansion tank,

- • -j aK"

r-::

you have to pump it m in from a special cartridge through a iS®

radiator air vent. aaawE Islmk' wk m

Flush

out the

Fill

pipes

from

the

bottom

up

You can add special flushing agents to your heating system

To re-fill the system, close the drain cock and all the

to loosen debris from the circuit pipework and radiators.

air vents. Then allow water back into the feed-and-

Turn off the water supply to the feed-and-expansion tank.

expansion tank so the system fills up again from

Then drain about 20 litres of water from it through a hose

there. Bleed the system, opening the lowest air

attached to the dram cock at the lowest point on the system.

vents first until water flows out, and working back

Pour in the cleansing agent (normally a whole bottle) and

until you reach the top of the system.

turn the water back on so the tank refills to the original level.

Clean the heating system pipework thoroughly

Run the heating with the cleanser in for about a week. Then

by emptying and filling the system two or three

drain the system completely and refill it with clean water.

times. After the final refill, turn the boiler back on and let the pump circulate the heated water around the system. Bleed the radiators for a few days to

Allowing the

water

out

release air driven out of the water by heat.

Letting air into the system helps water to run out of it. Locate the drain cock at the bottom of the system, and run a hose from it to an outside gully. Open the drain cock and then open the air vents on

Fitting

a

each of the radiators in turn, working from the top of the system downwards (see page

119).

replacement

An Shut

160

off the

water

exact

match

The most common reason for replacing a steel panel radiator

Before repairing your radiators and central-heating pipework,

is because it has sprung a leak caused by corrosion eating it

you will need to drain the heating system. If it is an open

away from inside. If possible, buy a replacement that is the

system (see page

same model and size as the one it's replacing, so it will fit on

119), first turn off the boiler. Then shut

off the water supply to the heating circuit by turning off the

the existing brackets and will connect up to the existing

stoptap on the supply pipe to the feed-and-expansion tank.

pipework without the need for time-consuming adjustments.

If there is no stoptap, tie up the arm of the float valve to

Measure the old radiator, paying special attention to the

a length of wood laid across the tank so the valve can't

position and separation of the bracket hooks, and use this

let in water.

information to track down a suitable replacement.

STAGES

FITTING

A

IN

NEW

VALVE

ir:

V. \ V

m 1

Wind

PTFEtape

around

valve tail.

Screw

in

until hand tight, then a further 1 '/a turns Imperial

to

metric

Metric radiators are often a little shorter than their imperialsized equivalents, so the valve connections will not meet. Fit valve tail extenders to one or both ends of the new X radiator to make up the gap and avoid having to modify w the circuit pipework.

N Double

the

output

/

Choose a new convector radiator with fins on the back to replace a standard panel radiator of the same size, and you

2

Fit

new

will virtually double the heat output. However, the fins attract

body

dust and fluff and can be difficult to keep clean. Make a

tail to valve body by hand

on

olive

top.

on

circuit

Connect

pipe

and

sit

valve

coupling

nut

on

valve

simple dust buster by fixing a wad of washing-up sponge or any old rag to a straightened-out wire coat hanger.

v >
7".(^ir-V?^

--■-r qimst immmmkk

fe-

Y'-"

v

R

.Y

rofiPlfri»l>i.VlJ- |i :• wmmmmmmmm

?a®

Following a spate of harsh winters, the manufacturers have increased its wall thickness so it can cope with

':m ■/:-

lower temperatures

-^v mimmk

for longer.

m

Tailored

to

fit

Shape a length of insulation to encase a pipe with a gentler • ' &

--v.-

•Y bend, such as a vent pipe, by making a series of wedge-shaped

Krt

nicks in it. The insulation will then fit snugly round the curve.

A) -

m ■ • .-i mm • v:

'*• Again tape the joints to keep them closed. m

;\

Foam

alone

m m

W:

K':i n l-\.

for insulating pipes in inaccessible places such as where they

■m

?• *

m

Polyurethane foam filler, which comes in aerosol form, is ideal

m •W:-' m i

pass through walls. Squirt the foam into the gap, leave it to expand and set hard, then trim off any excess with a sharp knife. It is also good for insulating outside pipes and garden taps, since it sticks well to the metal. This stops rainwater penetrating

Cut

neat joints

the insulation and freezing the pipe inside. Make a

Make 45° cuts in split-sleeve pipe insulation with scissors

weatherproof box to fit round the tap and pipework from

or a sharp bread knife so you can form neat joins at

exterior-grade plywood, then fill the box with foam. Trim excess

elbows and tees. Use PVC insulating tape to keep the

foam away from the tap handle with a knife and fit a wooden

joints tightly closed and avoid a freeze-up.

cover to the box.

insulation

How

to

keep

the

heat

Add

mmi Mmmtsm m

in

an

extra

layer

Where plumbing pipes run across the loft floor, double up their protection against frost by insulating them in the usual way (see page

169)

m and then placing the loft * insulation over them. Keep electricity cables above the insulation wherever possible, m so they can't overheat. mm

msmm

mi m

Remember the hatch

Wv1

■

if

Tape a piece of insulation

m

m

blanket to the upper side

IS of the loft hatch and fit

m /if •-

m

i»h

self-adhesive foam draughtH' proofing around the edges

F " I* wmrftii mm M

itr'•:;„

(in: hi'Hi, i 'VwS1 :i61Sai®y"i">'i '.•■ V

KS

: -'•: ■

(

of the hatch opening, to

-r .t

prevent valuable heat from

* the room below escaping r ■

Meet the

'

::*;i

into the roof space.

standard

Add another layer of insulation blanket in your loft if what you have is less than

100 mm thick. The current Building Regulations / /

require a minimum of 200 mm of loft insulation in new houses, / so adding an extra

100 mm or

150 mm blanket on top of what is /

already there will bring your property up to present-day standards. Because glass fibre can irritate the skin, buy insulation

m

blanket that's wrapped in a thin layer of plastic to make it more pleasant to handle (above).

/

m -/

/

:

: »

/ i

■ Allow

breathing

space

/

ii

Keep loft insulation blanket away from the eaves by fitting proprietary plastic ventilator trays ^r between the joists. If the eaves ventilation is blocked, warm moist air rising from the house m

condense within the cold loft space and settle as

m. moisture on the roof timbers. This condensation can m cause the wood to rot, saturate the insulation and spoi

■TvT;

the plaster and decoration on the ceilings in upstairs rooms.

7:m

c Keep

the tank warm

Don't insulate the loft floor under the cold-water storage m

tank; a little warm air from the room below should be

w rt'

I'>'*'■

allowed to rise around the base of the tank, helping to

K A ■? r-\;v-

prevent it from freezing in very cold weather. Instead, r\

make as tight a seal as possible between the loft floor

n ">

A

i 4'-m §

insulation and the insulation around the tank itself, so that heat is trapped below the tank rather than being lost

*

%

m •• ^

>*P:

-M

W5?

>

V-r m;

a H

■- i

yt U#

mt ¥

■s#

■< m

f' >>

>>>

H • V1

into the roof space.

'1 m

S Fast

and

loose

If the space between your joists varies, as it may in older homes, or if your loft is an awkward shape, insulation blanket may not fit very well. Get round the problem by laying loosefill material instead. You can use vermiculite granules (above) or loose mineral wool, both of which can be pushed into hard-to-reach parts of the roof space with a broom. Plastic ventilator trays will stop the granules being lost down a cavity wall if it is open at the top. -K %

Blowing

in

the wind

V, Vermiculite granules laid as insulation in a well-ventilated loft will almost certainly be blown -- into heaps by draughts. You can prevent this by laying -V;

"if ■Vfr

am

.

■

.

■

the granules level with the tops of the joists and ;

fiSfi - y

' ,;v then covering them with sheets of building paper,

1

(Mf .V, ' , ; ai'tfvM • IfUBuJll. stapled over the joists. Don't use polythene; it will

" , "y '•ti im

1

."

..:X

trap water vapour and cause condensation.

C"'

y M

Warming the

,1I

f'A O mm PC

t:

1

■j. r* ':c- **4 -

-4 IB I 'L WM

i m

:.;W c:-

m

loft

Insulate the underside of the roof slope if you want a warm loft (to use as a playroom, for example). You need to

mm maintain a ventilation gap immediately

V

y

r

■

KM m

risk of condensation, so use insulation

X

X:- XvXVXX

below the roof covering to prevent any

X. 'X'.-fS

50 mm thick and don't push it against

JBV iL,.

- rX-r.lTi

the underside of the slates or tiles. m Slabs of mineral wool are stiff enough to wedge between the rafters and stay in place without support, but strips of 50 mm-thick insulation blanket will need to be held up by string wound between nails driven into the rafter sides. Line the roof slope with hardboard or plasterboard if you want to conceal the insulation and achieve a neater look. * _

^i\\

"

■

;

■ • -.

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.; • -•■ .-«•

. '• v-

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^ |' ■ "

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c=a Ls

MAIN SWITCH

6

El

systems

w

m.

nu

OM ON

*■ Investigating

0

OFF

O

supply OFP

mcb l-off

q-

B40

mcb Blfi

^lroe

Mcb

cf abtr

Be

ee

86

Orabtr

"r ; ; ( a

O

mcb Cr

Be

»

your

OFF power

DM

k

detective ■ 'v: •

M tetopr

Before you can fix faults or make any changes to

mm :r

''

the wiring system, you need to know where the main fuse board is, what circuits it supplies, which lights and appliances are on which circuits, what

Switching

sort of electrical protection the system offers and

Before doing any work on the wiring, make sure the power

how everything is wired up. In short, you have to

is off. If the system has MCBs, and you intend to work on

be an electrical detective. What you discover will

a single circuit, just switch off the relevant MCB (above).

be invaluable when you come to work on your

If the dead circuit is a lighting one and you need light, plug

wiring, and is crucial for your safety. The first thing

a lamp into a socket. Run an extension lead to a separately

to do is to find out where to turn the house's

supplied socket if you've switched off a power circuit and

power supply on and off.

need to use power tools.

Out with

the

old

The fuse board may be located in an entrance hall, understairs cupboard, or even in a

Upgrade from

a

fuse

box to

In homes built or rewired since the

a

off

consumer

unit

1960s, there will be a one-piece fuse box containing

the system's on/off switch and all the individual circuit fuses side by side. It may be housed in a cupboard or in an attached or integral garage, or may be openly displayed on a wall surface. The most modem type of fuse box is known as a consumer unit, and

basement if the property

contains a series of switches called miniature circuit breakers (MCBs) rather than circuit

has one. In older homes,

fuses. These are safer and more convenient than fuses, so if you still have the latter it is

if the wiring has not

well worth considering getting them replaced with a consumer unit containing MCBs.

been modernised, the board will contain a main on/off switch and a

Grabtree STTR BREAKER

series of separate fuse

IS IZ

m

boxes, each controlling u , o*q MAT mjt

oujnMS rzrvHA«n an individual circuit. UPJTAIKB uonTwa Such a system is obsolete MAIN SWITCH

Mwrt cr

oow-jAms UONIMG

an um rAir t* » DOWNSWH scoters

r.Mowcn ■3,

PftOTECTfcO RCD cmcorrs ->

-

^: lv-^

4«rfO\

. «D .

/Kit

—

and is probably highly — unsafe to use. If this ON

100A (MAINSWITCH ON

ON

ri:ST

OW

UN

U ^ ONI

sounds like the system L in your home, have it

OFF O

© 9

replaced immediately ■ M OFF ~^Or by a qualified electrician

1 CrM*rv* --

'

OFT O

OFF O

DS4?W DM 240v-v 50Hz

-7

OFF O

MCB

MCB

MCB

MCB

B40 Oat*** : •

B16 OrtHfV*

B6

B6 CroUf**

ON

ON

i

i.

SPUT LOAD OFF O RCCB OFF O 63A 30mA Ull No. X1SC30 Crabbw

DM

ON

OFF O

OFF O

OFF O

OFF O

MCB

MCB

MCB

MCB

MCB

B32 Cntx/M

B32 CiAIM*

B32 Crattna

B16 Cnbon

B10 CnWm*

mimvbi u&mrnmmmmmmmrn —

and, until then, do not attempt to do any . wiring work.

•v

mmm m

'4

i

ifi m

;T fV ■

I

74

mm

m%

BS4293 TEST ON i m

4

i

MCB

m

O 1

o:-.n plL-L" V-F.

832

O 63A 30fnA

MCB

.

. &&&**

OFF tistNo.363/S030

WlCB 86 B6

- LiH

bccb

o

OFF -F

o s'frS$

split load

O

^ -n

1

240V~ 50HZ

, w_rx-w,j.r.p7s*J'

Crabtree

RED

BLACK

ON

OFF

1

is®

L ■:

- ' '■ r RES i

WARNING: Preventing

shocks

and

fires

TEST BEFORE USE

mmm. fee

As well as MCBs, modem consumer units also contain a TEST

mv':

i

separate circuit breaker called a residual current device :« ■: ■ ?, i

(RCD). This is a safety feature that detects the current imbalance caused if you touch something that's live and current starts to flow to earth through your body. It cuts off the current in a fraction of a second-fast enough to prevent the shock from stopping your heart beating. It also detects current leaks resulting from problems such as faulty insulation, which can cause electrical fires to start, and again shuts off the power. If you have an RCD, check from time to time that it is working properly by pressing its test button to trip it off.

VI

VI mm

- KC-v. Tr.

5*. i

M

• V' -. . :> P.' . V

m

I ♦

i II

3

11 i ?!

VI

2S

Stay safe

outside

Even if your wiring system has an RCD to protect it, always plug garden power tools, such as lawnmowers and hedge trimmers, into a special socket outlet or adaptor containing a high-sensitivity RCD (above). This will give you even greater Pocket for

safety's

sake

If you have circuit fuses, turn off the power at the main

protection against the risk of shock if you cut through an extension lead and touch a live conductor.

on/off switch before starting work. Then remove the fuse for the circuit you will be working on. Keep it in your pocket so no one else can replace it until you have finished.

Don't

blow

a

fuse

Fuses exist to protect circuits from overloading. If you try to draw more current from a circuit than it's intended Counting

circuits

to supply, the cable may overheat and cause a fire.

\ typical modern home may have two or three lighting

The fuse is a weak link, designed to melt and cut off the

circuits, a similar number supplying socket outlets into which

current if overloading occurs. Take care when plugging

Dortable appliances are plugged, plus circuits to individual

in a number of appliances containing heating elements

appliances that use a lot of current-a cooker, an immersion

all at once: they are the big current consumers.

aeater or an electric shower, for example. Each circuit will

In modern installations the fuse's job is done by

nave its own circuit fuse or MCB in the consumer unit. Check

an MCB. This switches the current off if it detects an

rour unit so you know how many different circuits you have,

overload, and cannot be switched back on until all

and stick a label inside the lid so you can see at a glance

of the offending appliances have been turned off

vhich fuse or MCB controls which circuit.

or disconnected.

175

systems

Which

light,

which

Investigating

circuit?

Check

socket

your

power

allocation

supply

Keeping

spares

A 5-amp or 6-amp circuit fuse rating means

To find out which socket outlets are on

If your system is fitted with

that the circuit is supplying fixed lights.

which power circuit, follow the same

rewirable fuses, buy a

have more than one such circuit, it is helpful

procedure as for the light circuits, but with

couple of spare wired-up

to know which one supplies which rooms.

the 30-amp circuit fuses or 32-amp MCBs.

fuseholders-one rated at

The way to find out depends on whether

Don't expect ail the sockets in a room to be

5 amps and one at 30

you have fuses or MCBs. Either turn off the

on the same circuit; electricians often wire

amps-and keep them next

main switch and remove one of the fuses,

up outlets that are physically remote from

to the consumer unit. You

or simply switch off one of the MCBs. Then

one circuit-at the end of a long room, for

will then be able to replace

turn on all the fixed ceiling and wall lights in

example-as spurs from adjacent circuits.

a blown fuse as soon as the

the house, and make a note of which ones

It is important to know this, as you might

fault has been rectified,

are lit and which are not. That will tell you

otherwise go to work on an outlet you think

and rewire the fuse later at

which lights are on which circuit.

is isolated but which is live.

your leisure.

Health

checks for

If you

plugs

Your plugs should look like the one on the left, not the one on the right. Once a year, set aside a couple of hours to give the plugs on all your appliances a quick health check. Open each one up and check that all the terminal screws are tight and are gripping their flex cores securely, with no stray wires visible. Hold the plug and tug the flex to see that the cord grip is working. Replace any plug that has a cracked casing. Finally, check that the plug contains the correct fuse for the appliance-a 3-amp one (colour-coded red) if the wattage is below 700 watts, a 5-amp fuse if it's under (brown) otherwise.

1200 watts, and a

13-amp one

H

30S

CIRCUIT FUSES ^

m m •r-.

c

..AV 'A1"

PLUG FUSES ■mm

mm. m

:i

,

mm

K. fe I Be

prepared

for

emergencies

You can minimise the effects of electrical emergencies by being prepared. If the main fuse box contains rewirable or cartridge fuses, keep some fuse wire or ready-wired cartridges in all the necessary current ratings. Stock a supply of spare 3-amp and

13-amp plug fuses

too, plus spare light bulbs in all the different types and wattages you a: use around the house. Store everything together as an electrical first-

i I

aid kit, along with a torch, an insulated electrical screwdriver, a pair of

m Ms pliers, wire strippers, a continuity tester, some PVC earth sleeving and

i

a roll of PVC insulating tape.

i vm V)

PVC EARTH SLEEVING

S:

s V)

faultfinding

No

lights?

Tracing

No

problems

power?

Circuit

down?

Suspect a blown light bulb first, and

Unplug the appliance and plug in another.

When nothing on a circuit works,

fit a replacement of the correct type

If this works, the first appliance is at fault. If

turn off the lights and unplug the

and wattage, if mains lights still don't

it does not, then there is probably a fault in

appliances that run from it. Then

work, inspect the consumer unit to

the circuit. If the faulty appliance feels hot

check the main fuse box to see if the

see if the lighting circuit fuse has

or is smoking, take it to a service engineer

circuit fuse has blown or the MCB

blown or its miniature circuit breaker

for repairs. Otherwise check the plug and

has switched off. Replace the fuse or

(MCB) has switched itself off.

flex for loose or broken connections.

switch the MCB back on. If it blows or trips immediately, there is a fault on

If plug-in lights do not work, check first whether the plug fuse has

0ri^fKm r,v.., mm

j-" • ■ -■

the circuit wiring and you need to call 1 0 -i.

blown or whether there is a loose

an electrician to find it. If it does not,

A

flex connection inside the plug or the m

circuit MCB has cut off the supply.

switch on lights or plug in appliances 1 one by one to identify which is

light. Then check whether the power circuit fuse has blown or whether the

mm

causing the problem. Check, too, that

mtm mm wmit

you are not overloading the circuit. k

177

faultfinding

Watch

the

Tracing

problems

A safe

watts

grip

When replacing a bulb in a light fitting, check inside the

If a light bulb is smashed,

lampshade for a label indicating the maximum bulb wattage

turn the power to its

the manufacturer recommends. Do not exceed this, or you

circuit off at the mains.

risk damaging the shade or the fitting.

Then use pliers to grip \ the stump of the bulb and remove it from its

Look for the

fuse

lampholder. Wear safety

rating

Make sure that every appliance has the correct

goggles in case any of the

fuse in its plug, by checking its wattage (power

broken glass falls out.

consumption). For light fittings this is on the bulb; appliances have it printed somewhere on their outer casing. Fit a 3-amp fuse if the wattage is less than 700 watts, a 5-amp fuse if it's under 1200 watts (1.2 kw), and a

13-amp fuse for

higher wattages.

Total Reducing

sensitivity

power failure

If the whole house has no power, check first whether there is

Some lighting circuit MCBs can trip off whenever

a local power cut. If there is, report it to your electricity supply

a light bulb fails. The problem is caused by pieces

company. If yours is the only house without power and there

of rupturing element wire causing a short circuit inside the bulb. The solution is either to get an electrician to fit less sensitive MCBs on your lighting circuits, or to buy top-quality light bulbs which have a fuse in the base designed to blow when the lamp fails.

Using

is a residual current device (RCD)

in the consumer unit, this

may have tripped off. Try resetting it; if you cannot, the fault is still present. In this case run through the appliance and circuit checks, or call an electrician. Lastly, your main service fuse may have blown. If it has, call your supply company and ask for an engineer to come and replace it.

testers

■m

>■

Look for the

light

Plug

in

and

test

fiii. _ ■ One useful job for a

A socket-outlet tester will show whether

continuity tester is checking

outlets have been wired up correctly.

whether flex and cable cores

Plug it into the outlet you want to test,

are unbroken, since you

switch the power supply on and see

cannot inspect them visually.

which combination of the three

Just touch the probe to one

indicator lights is lit.

, n

m

U

i«< \(

m M

r... .' i

.:. i

St If

w I w

'-T end of each core and attach

Ti.;:

I J,

>", c

m.t

' the clip to the other; if the

-4

m

;

1 core is sound the indicator light comes on.

%

If you have a multimeter, use it as an ohmmeter to i

T

1H fAUlT IN REVERSED FAUI III IIO □□

measure the resistance of

> !•

iv,


2 Connect cores to terminal block, linking like cores and

covering the

bare

cable

earth

core

with green-and-yellow PVC sleeving ..

m

% |f|

\ \

4-

3 Push light fitting up into hole in ceiling until its

spring-loaded

jaws

grip

perimeter

of

hole

and lock it in place

199

4'

lighting

Spots

and

tubes

Guard

against

grease Some low-voltage lighting tracks use tiny pea-shaped quartz SBSfflgSBil MBSBnHBBHBi

:

halogen bulbs that fit 3;

into small parabolic reflectors. Always handle

.

Get

a

better

grip

JA Many spotlight bulbs are

these with paper tissue

quite a tight fit in their

or a handkerchief;

reflector lampholders. If you

otherwise grease from

have trouble undoing and

your skin can cause hot

removing a failed bulb, wind

spots that will make Curing

a

false

start

the bulb fail prematurely.

If a fluorescent tube is reluctant to start, suspect a faulty

Avoid turning them on

starter. Locate it on the base of the fitting, push it in and twist it anticlockwise to release it from its socket. Take it to the shop so you can identify the correct replacement.

around your finger and

and off repeatedly

thumb to enable you to get

too-this also shortens

a better grip on the smooth end of the bulb.

their life.

Templates Recessed

a couple of rubber bands

make

fitting

simple

fittings Use the template provided with the light fitting to mark the positions of the fixing screws. Wherever possible

Use joists for

planning

position the fitting directly below a joist and align its

Plan the wiring to a row of recessed light fittings according to

baseplate so at least two fixing screws go into the joist.

which way the ceiling joists run. If the row is parallel to the joists, cut the holes for the fittings and then feed the supply cables between the joists from one hole to the next, working from

A

below. If the row is at right angles, lift a single floorboard

If you cannot attach the light fitting

in the room above and drill holes through the joists,

to a joist, it is possible to fix it to

so the cables can be run through them

the ceiling (providing it is

from light to light.

lightweight) using cavity fixings such

batten

between

joists

as spring toggles. Large fittings with heavy glass diffusers need screwing Protection

in

the

loft

to timber battens secured between

Make sure that loft insulation is

the joists, so you will need access s

pulled clear of recessed light

to the ceiling void to fit these.

r

fittings, so they cannot •-

overheat and create a fire 1 u I

risk. If the fittings project above the tops of the joists,

m

Protect *

cores

from

heat

The temperature inside enclosed

make open-sided protective

light fittings can be surprisingly

boxes from offcuts of plywood

high when the light is on. Fit heat-

or chipboard to fit over them.

resistant sleeving over any

Then the fitting will not be

exposed flex and cable cores

damaged accidentally by anyone

within these fittings, to protect

moving about within the roof space

,

them from overheating.

■r:

outdoors

Effective

lights T-

Find

the

best

r

locations

Work out where to put outside lights by wiring up the fitting to an extension cable. Then, after dark, get a helper to hold the switched-on fitting against the house wall mmmm

in a variety of positions, so you can see exactly what is lit up. Use steps or a ladder if necessary. Remember that a little light

mmm

goes a long way in the dark, and oven bright lights merely dazzle. Carry out the

?same exercise to position lights beside paths and steps in the garden (right).

mM Watch

the

gSare

Floodlights suit football stadia more than back gardens, but if you

to' o

decide you must install them, think

d:

about your neighbours and angle :J

'Wf

the fittings so the light is directed

a.

down and onto your property only. Carelessly aligned floodlights can

o also be a hazard if they're fitted at o

the front of the house, where they could dazzle drivers.

Corner

positions m

Cut the number of outside lights you need m by positioning them on the corners of the house. Each light will then shine along two adjacent walls.

Automatic

b'uWtifa

/

control

Tilt the

drill

bit

Your outside lights can be controlled

Drill a hole through the house wall

by a simple on/off switch situated

with a large-diameter masonry drill

inside the house. Alternatively, they

bit for the cable to an outside light.

can be turned on automatically

Check that the hole will emerge

whenever anyone approaches the

somewhere accessible indoors,

house, if they are wired up to a

and angle the drill bit so the hole

passive infra-red

runs slightly uphill from the

(PIR) detector (left),

which senses body heat. Some

outside, to discourage rainwater

outside lights have the detector built

from getting in. Feed a length of

in. If you already have a number of

round PVC conduit through the

outside lights, installing a separate PIR

hole to protect the cable from

detector to control them is a relatively

chafing, and waterproof the exit

straightforward wiring job.

point with exterior sealant.

/ m

201

Power

outdoors

Effective

in

the

garden

lights Burying

cable

Ordinary PVC-sheathed cable can be run Choose

a

pick-up

underground so long

as it is first threaded through impact-resistant PVC conduit,

point

A light on the outside wall can be wired as a spur

assembled with solvent-welded joints. Bury it at least 450 mm

from an indoor circuit-a lighting circuit if the extra

(18 in) deep where paving will be laid. Increase this to 750 mm

light won't overload it, a power circuit otherwise.

(2 ft 6 in)

Pick whichever is the more convenient to access.

plastic warning tape (available from electrical wholesalers) over

Wire a spur from a power circuit via a fused

the conduit before backfilling the trench, to warn anyone digging

connection unit (FCU) fitted with a 5 amp fuse

the ground in the future that a cable is buried underneath it.

beneath lawns or flowerbeds. Wrap black-and-yellow

The FCU can also act as the light switch.

m

r.-i -. *

Low voltage,

low

cost

Mams-voltage lights in the garden must have their

5 m

own circuit, with the protection of a residual current -■ m device (RCD). Installing this circuit is a job for a professional electrician. You can save the expense

V

of this by choosing a low-voltage lighting set powered f'i from a transformer instead. The cable can safely be left lying on the surface of flowerbeds as it runs from

bHi 'i';

light to light.

iH mms 9mmm Easy wiring Choose light fittings with a terminal block inside to

Overhead

make the wiring as easy as possible. Then all you

It is always best to take cable runs to outbuildings underground.

have to do is feed the supply cable through the house

But if there is an existing patio or drive in the way that you don't

wall into the back of the fitting, and connect its cores

want to dig up, the cable will have to run overhead. It must be

to the block. Some fittings have a waterproof rubber

at least 3.7 m

sleeve through which the incoming cable passes.

5 m (17 ft)

With others you need to seal the join between the

house at eaves level to get maximum clearance. Take the cable

fitting's baseplate and the wall with a generous bead

to a tall post bolted to the outbuilding, and suspend it from an

of exterior sealant (below).

overhead support wire if the span is more than 3.5 m. Link this

■V-.'

power

(12 ft) above ground over a path or patio and

high if it crosses a driveway, so bring it out of the

wire to earth with a 4 mm2 earth cable.

r M m f i 'P i

Safety

shutdown

■'vVC* cV:-

^VvV.; Iryv "vTV

' -A,i, A

1 Tim

Any socket outlet powering an

&

Ifeaifl

.

electrical appliance that is

:\ 1 • ww:

being used outside, must be wm. m protected by a high-sensitivity - a. residual current device (RCD). This trips to off more quickly

v

■y .'

m

•

than the type of RCD usually -7"

r fitted to protect circuits in the

wa

: house, so offering even

ctn-ir. ' ■(

better protection against

Pi electric shock.

mIPISB

m 202

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mmm ifelPifeipti

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?■ 15;' o-}' •V-'T vjsl&m

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Wr % 1 m; l

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c-i:

mm '-Air

STAGES

FITTING

AN

IN

OUTSIDE

LIGHT

r:. »

1

3^1. ' HkW^ m. Bi

:

H'J (f' WS&

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f: Cvi it'" Pi

\'"f--ir f.' ,

t i '- y.

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1-^ iMil

I-'-

hi:; Ji

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ms .' -7;

i®

Wash

•j

with

sugar

soap

Clean dirt and grease off old paintwork

4

by washing it thoroughly with sugar V'-C.soap and water. The solution also takes h the shine off gloss-painted surfaces,

m 'W '/// a

providing a good key for the new coat

m t

of paint. Rinse off the sugar soap with

if#|i '

•ff-

y

■■'

.>x

dry before repainting.

i^

Dress for the job

3P

7 Ll

m: ^: --:

Protect your eyes and skin from sugar

m. m

r?•

' J

n

7

:

clean water and allow the paintwork to

yr Cg

t *'%!

>..

/

L'" m

'v - ■>

tr m

m T- • ■

m :\.y

m

::4 n:

HSS

SS

r

r-'I/ mm mm 5® "i / ,'4'jSv

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r mm ir

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s?

m -/ / .m; ./ -- r r 'v* i

US

-t-

mm m

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■90

Im

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-kj*

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-:v4i V: '

44 '

• 4//;

21 •'

I

rt rz A'* i V: ->L Sr-:

>■

sanding

floors

i wSmSm mmmlm

Stripping

back

to mm

bare

boards

m

zmmsm m

am im

" m Reaching the

edges V- ,

An edging sender is indispensable for getting right up to the

•: T

:

C-'c: 1 %

face of skirting boards. In small rooms where a drum sander is heavy and unwieldy to manoeuvre, it may be the only machine you need. Hire kneepads at the same time as the

^ . iifi

sander, because you'll be working on your knees all the time. \ m

m ESfiS

•1-

m

m

m CMS

i % ::?ms

u mm

>r.

mmmm

S?.

s

u.

mm

>;x

v:0m mi

mm .. i

m

Diagonally i

i

across

^.7J

hollows

Old floorboards may be cupped-hollow along their centres

m and curled up at the edges. As long as the cupping is not too marked, you can get rid of it by running the drum sander diagonally across the boards before you begin working along rr m the gram y #:

(above). Use coarse abrasive.

m m

w

.1 i

mm

When r

the

dust

settles

A floor sander creates a

lot of dust. Once it has settled, and

immediately before varnishing the floor, clean the entire room with a vacuum cleaner. Then get rid of any remaining dust by Bottoms

wiping the floor with a lint-free cloth dipped in white spirit.

up

If the top surface of a floorboard is too damaged to be worth sanding, try lifting it and inspecting the underside; you might be able to re-use it if you nail it down bottom side up.

'Start

and

stop

routine

Press down on the handle or operate a special lever to raise the drum off the boards before starting or stopping. If you allow it to be in contact with the boards while building up to full

r:"

(Si

Ar 1 mmmmi

speed or slowing down, they will be scarred. 1

V 'y?

Old

212

for

mm jBft. r.

m

old

If possible, replace badly damaged floorboards with

Getting

secondhand ones of the same width and thickness,

You will need a sander with a pointed base (see page 336)

obtained from a salvage yard. Take a short length of the

to get right into corners (left). An alternative is to use a wide

old board along with you for comparison. Secondhand

chisel or a plane blade to scrape the old finish off the boards.

replacements will blend in with the original boards far

Hold the blade with bevel away from you and scrape in the

better than new ones.

direction of the grain (right).

into

the

corners

•> r mgE# A

protective

for

the

coating

new-look

boards

Three

sorts

of sealer fS-

Polyurethane varnish is the usual choice, but it is solvent-based and takes a long time to dry. It also tends to yellow with age. Water-based varnishes and two-part catalysed lacquers provide a clearer finish, with less tendency to discolour. They diy fast, so you can apply several coats in a day, although that does mean you have to work quickly to keep a wet edge. Mix only as much of

Buy a

a two-part lacquer as you can use before it starts

Don't risk getting specks of old paint or bristles in the varnish

to set-usually in around an hour.

by using an old or cheap brush. Invest in a new, good-quality

Read the instructions, because varnishes

brush before you start. Synthetic fibre brushes are less prone

come in various grades and you need to choose

to hair loss than natural bristle types.

new

brush

tu one that is suitable for floors. Flooring-grade

Use a narrow brush to varnish the edge trims and the

varnish may itself be graded for use according

perimeter boards, then switch to a wider brush for fast

to the amount of wear and tear the floor is likely

coverage of the rest of the floor.

a.

to receive.

Be

alert to

fire

risk QTQ

Rub

on

the

first

Open the windows, ensure gas

coat

Thin the first coat of varnish with a little

flames-including pilot lights on a boiler or

white spirit and apply it with a clean rag,

cooker-are extinguished, and don't smoke

rubbing it into the boards. Then use a brush

nearby when varnishing a floor. Rags used

for subsequent coats. Never shake the tin;

to apply varnish or oil are highly flammable

the bubbles formed will appear as tiny

and should be left outside to dry before

blemishes in the dried varnish.

being thrown in the bin.

O

e

M

-M - '

mmmn^ m

■■. -

m

Alternative

35 r- mm 1

varnish

An oil polish will provide a hard-wearing

/ frF? •f-i

w.

alternative to varnish, and is well worth —

- ■

v:;

to

the effort if you have a beautiful old

vc:

timber floor. Use a product such as Danish oil, or mix your own using

/

1

part

of raw linseed oil to 8 parts of turpentine. You can colour the oil by mixing a stain into it (see page 281). Warm the oil to make it more fluid and to help absorption. It could be --

24 hours or more before the floor is dry enough for a second, more sparing coat. Keep applying coats until buffing raises a silky sheen, and water forms beads on the surface. mi

213

."Y i

Stabilise

surfaces

Test the stability of existing paint on an outside wall by Working rubbing it down with a dry, dark-coloured rag. If the rag outdoors collects a chalky deposit, scrub the wall with a stiff dry brush to remove loose material, then apply a stabilising solution. v

f

Protect from splashes .

Cover porch and bay window roofs, to prevent them from getting splashed

Handiest for the job

as you paint. To protect

Use a long-nap roller with a tough

paths and other hard

nylon pile or a large, synthetic-fibre

surfaces, lay some old

brush to apply masonty paint.

dustsheets or plastic m

A medium-bristle dustpan brush with

sheeting along the base of

v

a comfortable handle is also good

walls, but don't stand a ■

Si. for the job. Apply the paint to the

ladder on plastic sheeting

wall in vertical zigzags and fill in the

in case the ladder slips.

gaps with vertical strokes. tag • S&P '

■.

■

■ CSeariy a

-■i

better

Painting ornamental

z-

r^r

choice

brick surrounds m Pr®??

of doors, windows

tfsg;'' and chimney stacks

*

m v

is an irreversible

*

•e

decision-you won't be able to get the

St» •'w

»»

---.

paint off if you want

-;■ /? J»

I to at some later *.■

** &C>:

—

m \. ■ i

w&* V JSk

*r&mk ft . .a

date. If ornamental brickwork has

sw

& Hm

deteriorated, you can protect it

with a

te m ...

clear water-repellent

-■- ■'

as :

i

Mis■ 'jiiicone sealer.

&

i

. M rm^•---: m WE

214

»vir

"

Weather

eye

Stay ahead

of the

sun

Don't decorate outside

On sunny days, try and paint

on windy days; dust and

walls while they are in shadow,

grit is bound to get

otherwise they will dp/ too

blown onto the wet

quickly. If you are caught in the

paint. Cold weather can

sun's glare, protect the back of

make gloss paint dry

your neck, and if you're using

without a shine.

white paint, wear sunglasses.

PAINIINC

OF

A

EXTERIOR

SASH / y / 7

WINDOW

// '7/

CIN

/ T

/

// / //

Exterior

woodwork

77 Seal

against

rain

Lower top sash and

Position masking tape 2-3 mm (Vs in) away from

raise bottom one to its

full extent. Then paint exposed surfaces

the edge of the putty when masking window glass. Paint across this gap; it seals the junction between putty and glass against rain. Remove the tape before the paint has hardened.

X Let

paint

spots

set K

li

Use a rag dampened in white spirit or water to wipe wet paint off glass. Scrape off any spots you miss after the paint has set, but before it goes really hard. 2 Reverse both sashes to gain access to rest of bottom sash and complete painting it Let the

wood

breathe

Microporous paints and varnishes are the best choice for exterior woodwork. They are formulated m to allow any moisture trapped in the wood to escape, while at the same time preventing rain from getting through. The finish is also flexible, so it won't crack under the stress of thermal movement.

fAT --f

m

With both sashes closed, paint lower half of Right

brush

for

jambs and parting beads. Allow to dry

the job L' rH

Painting windows with many small fa: panes is a fiddly job. As an alternative to sticking masking tape

\

around the wood to . //; /x

stop paint getting on mtj

the glass, use a cutting-in brush to paint glazing bars.

Lower jambs

top

and

sash

parting

to

complete

beads.

Then

painting close

of

sashes

and paint face of frame

215 r

Prevent windows

and

doors

sticking

Paint windows and exterior doors early in the day,

painting

so that by evening the paint is dry enough for them to be closed. Exterior

Paint surfaces where openings and

woodwork frames meet first. Wedge doors open, so they can't blow shut or be closed by mistake. To ensure the joiner/ doesn't stick when you open it next day, smear a little petroleum jelly onto the frame rebates before shutting up for the night; it will wipe off easily in the morning.

Keep

clear

of grit

Pour small quantities of paint into a paint kettle when you're painting masonry and rendered walls. It prevents bits of grit from the wall being transferred to the tin

End H^'f* 'u * Jt

on

a

(see page 225).

complete

board

If you cannot paint the whole of a timber-clad wall at

Cr

Ok

one go, call a temporary stop when you reach the \\-x bottom edge of one complete board. Always 'feather' or i"-':

blend areas of wet paint into one another with light

-

brush strokes and little paint, otherwise you will end up

: vr

with lap marks, especially if you are using gloss paint.

Gutters

Camouflage

or

and

downpipes

contrast?

Getting

behind

a

downpipe

While

it's

on

the

ground

Choose a colour that camouflages or

You can buy a special brush with an

When you take down metal guttering

highlights gutters and downpipes.

angled head for painting behind

in order to replace a fascia board, take

Modern plastic gutters and pipes are

downpipes, but if you don't have one

the opportunity to remove any rust

probably best painted to blend into

position a piece of card behind the

with a wire brush and repaint the

their background, but decorative cast-

pipe to mask the masonry.

gutter before putting it back up. Make

iron fittings may be worth highlighting

sure you use a suitable primer on

by painting them a different colour.

aluminium.

Neighbourhood

watch

I

Painting

plastic

pipes

,sLook at what your neighbours

Plastic gutters and pipes can be left

have done before choosing an

unpainted; just wash them down with

exterior colour scheme for your home, espcially if you live in a

water containing a little bleach. If you do want to paint them, there's no need

v

m

terrace. Apparently simple choices, such as the colour of a front door,

to use an undercoat, Key the surface of w 'i

new plastic with fine abrasive paper to

can have a large impact on the

make the paint adhere better, or wait a

street scene. Do you want to stand

a

out or blend in?

w:

year before painting, by which time the weather will have taken the shine off

Primer,

undercoat

and

finish

m. mm Stick to c-.

separate

coats

Primers are designed to seal surfaces, undercoats to obliterate • ' •• : •

raV,-

underlying colour and provide a

/■

■ S

•-

strong key for the protective top

e r

m

coat. Using a combined primer/ undercoat may save time and

\r< ic ^

iSȣ

y

^>d

'H

C --

money, but you will generally not

V'.-

f

get results as good as those

».jP

© 'ml

achieved with separate coats.

r VOC COMTEflT 0J0%lo750%

■:V-

l^OCs (Volatile Organic Compounds/ contribute \ to atmospheric "W pollution .

^ Primer nnd

•■ '--.'"O

r

w 1

^

n

choice

wCOd

A primer specially formulated for a

1

•V * •*»*« 0 P® "

particular surface-plaster, wood or ■ ■

•- -

.** 'W*4,n*'»hWd

metal-will last longer and produce a

I

ifl

better finish than a universal primer. Copper pipe needs no primer,

* -r •»«---

Jbut an undercoat may be necessary

»

•U' mm ^ i

to hide the colour of the metal.

i i

i

i

c/ • i

§

.• »

mi m .

m ffvo '-_; f5|g3SS&S£i.

Obliterate

stains

Wax crayon and felt-tip pen marks, Pick

healthier

tar from cigarettes and water stains

paints

Water-based paints and varnishes have a lower volatile organic compound (VOC)

from plumbing leaks will all

content than solvent-based ones. This means they do less environmental damage

eventually show through layers of

and pose less of a health risk to people using them regularly. Use products with a

conventional paint. Smother them

low VOC rating if solvent-based paints give you nausea or headaches. Information

permanently with an aluminium

about VOCs is now often given on the container.

primer-sealer or with a proprietary stain-block. The latter is sold in aerosol form, ideal for small areas.

White won't yellow

Keep

mould

at

bay

White paint on radiators and central-heating

Steamy kitchens and bathrooms can be ideal

and hot-water pipes won't yellow if you use a

breeding grounds for mould, because of the

proprietary radiator enamel. This gives off strong

condensation that forms on wall and ceiling

fumes as it dries, so open the windows wide.

surfaces. Decorate them with special kitchen and bathroom paint containing a fungicide.

Hide

the

imperfections

Gloss paint shows up every blemish in a surface.

Volatile

combination

If your woodwork isn't perfect or you don't want to

Polystyrene ceiling tiles and solvent-based paints

spend long hours on preparation, use a more

make a highly combustible combination. Always

forgiving matt or eggshell finish instead.

paint these tiles with a water-based paint.

-W M

■j •

IT*-,

tW Brush,

roller, fts i .H J

-V pad

or

spray

gun? r-, . •-an

Invest

in

a

/V, H; w'

flexible frame

It's worth buying a good-quality paint roller, with a cage that

If 'f

■J , i

i

spins freely and springs back into position when you squeeze m

it. Look for a comfortable handle, with a threaded insert to "T n

take an extension pole. The pole will save you bending if you

n 1

%

II

want to paint a floor, or climbing a stepladder to reach HHSI

m ceilings, A telescopic pole is the most versatile type.

Choose your

sleeve

carefully

Use a cheap foam roller sleeve for general painting work where the standard of the finish is not important. For a good

. i

finish on a very smooth surface, a mohair sleeve with a short pile is best. A sleeve with a long lambswool or synthetic fibre mm pile forces paint into ever/ crevice on a highly textured

msm

surface. Use a long-nap sleeve with a tough nylon pile on rough exterior surfaces such as pebbledash.

What

size

brush?

The general rule is to use the widest brush that you can handle comfortably, and which is appropriate for Create

a

textured

finish

the surface being painted. A

100 mm brush is ideal

A sculptured roller sleeve will add a textured finish to a flat

for applying emulsion paint to walls, while a 75 mm

surface. Hessian, bark, swirl, patchwork and stipple effects

one is better for gloss-painting flat woodwork. The

are among those available. Some can be used to create a

wider the brush, the quicker you can paint, making it

repeating pattern with successive parallel passes of the roller.

easier to keep a wet edge as you work.

Reaching a

behind

radiator

•S-

--

Use a radiator roller or brush to paint behind a radiator.

:v

m

Ml

rW

i l

MM

Both tools have long V handles, so the new paint

:f_7 v

c. '

colour can be taken right out of sight. Be sure to remove

Get the

dust and cobwebs before

from

you start. Mask the newly

cheap

painted wall with plastic

best

a brush

A cheap brush is fine if a good

sheeting or hardboard when

finish isn't important-when

you come to painting the

brightening up an understairs cupboard,

radiator itself.

for example. Try to use the brush for priming and undercoating first, so that when it's time to apply the top coat it has stopped

Natural

versus

synthetic

shedding bristles.

Modern synthetic fibre brushes will perform as well as all but the finest hog bristle brushes, and suffer far less from 'hair loss' in use. They are also easier to clean than bristle brushes, and keep their shape better too.

. ,r

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a i muim

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