Design and Construction of Handbags

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DESIGN

AND

CONSTRUCTION 0p

日在圃oв在бs

SK

腰几

c‫ء‬

000 8us

м‫ء‬s‫اغ‬д‫ء‬n‫ء‬ Head of Leather Goods Department, Cordwainers

Technical College, London

五enden

OXFORD ‫א‬ε‫اعل‬

UNIVERSITY уовк

т0n0пт0

1960

PRESS

CONTENTS

r‫د‬

н在‫א‬oв‫رمف‬宪0

c0దు‫ةي‬smㅁcт置0‫א‬

Cut edge edge

2‫ء‬

handbags;

handbags

мnкmо‫د‬

ക്കുന

FRAMES

HANDBAG

SIMPLE

8.

FACED and

Faced

edge

frames;

Frame

бrτings‫د‬

Pipings.

39

mrmarmm‫י‬

cnsser

PATTERNS

§I

arrangement;

round

Gusset

fronts; Individual

modification;

side gussets.

62

FOLDS frame

patterns;

раnеmss

бusser

comer

百о且ds‫دةيب‬आंdе

FRENCH

prame

ебecrss

introduction.

section

Side

section

frame

sеcτiоп‫ةل‬

SEAMS

FRAMED 8ag

patterns.

PATTERNS

gusset

CORNER

gussets;

7I

seam

making;

Frame

CHANNEL οudineg

edge

TURNED

Seam

calculation;

French

seam

attachment.

BAGS

81

сhаnnе且

сun支ngs

construction;

channels;

IO.

;Wooden

Upright

French

9.

напd‫ال‬е

аnd

EDGE

Inset

GUSSET

ю Coloured

32

fitting; Shoulder

7.

Formation.

20

Machining;

ONE-PIECE

SIMPLE

numbering;

Side channels

craspss

composieion

6.

handbags;

;Faced

SEAMS

Skiving;

5.

edge handbags

FITTINGS

frames;

重аsτепеrsg

4.

Pattern

AND

Machine

;Turned

r

r0вм‫ابور‬т30‫א‬

cuттmо‫اغ‬mттвn‫א‬s

Formation;

3.

‫ء‬县хu

Turned-over

Convex

One-piece

도хτеr且оr

‫ال‬eаτhеrs

channels;

Side

paced section

channels.

BAGS

Pattern

89

approach;

cur

баτhеdngg

Gathers

and

pleats;

Box

pleating;

ν рleаeing‫اغ‬

99

II. STIFFENINGS

12.

LININGS

118

ㅁrоp‫د‬m тор Tops

mmigg

йcdngg

mac

of gussets;

divisions;

pdced τор

нп5пgg hningsg

rmedor

ヲ‫ةماعلواغف‬rоund

Lining-divisions;

Introduction

сарасnуs gussec

Inners;

of zip-fasteners

ㅁeрrhs uningss

Inners

with

;Lining-pockets;

vi

CONTENTS

srmmg

podrer gussets;

TRIPLE

SIDE

Framed frame

I4.

CURVED

FRAME

BAG

Glued

bags;

вох

dagss

Shaped-leg

frames.

size

shape;

168

lengths; еdgе

BASES

line

Top

THEIR

modification ;

ARRANGEMENTS

bottoms

nananerse

179 bottoms ;

;Tray-shaped

srra5ghr‫د‬

dorromsg

bottoms.

188 Flap formation;

principles;

Double

flaps; Flap

The drop-back flap; decoration.

EXTERIORS

5nrroducr5ong

patterns;

GUSSET

and

BAGS

ONE-PIECE

Basic

of

Square-mouth

PATTERN

;Raised

Flap stiffenings;

mear

collars;

condnuous

shaped

FLAPOVER

Importance

bags;

consrruceiom

AND

General

19.

152 τорs

BAGS

05enuh5eng

18.

Machine

cusser

сопsnuсdоns

examples;

Shape alteration

17.

Zip

BAGS

panem

edge

paced

16.

modification;

144

procedure;

Square-mouthed Zip

finishing;

modification.

Faced

ZIPPED

and

Gusset top

GUSSETS

pattern

pramess

15.

naps

podcer

οоnsrruсnоng

loops and pockets;

box bags.

Lining

13.

podcer

Elastic

199 shomder

Machine-aided

5nrroduceiong

examples;

тएसо‫ةيب‬重rame

Circular

patterns;

fold modification.

ADDITIONS

Vanderbilt turned

211

gussets;

bags;

Mitred

Two-piece corner

gussets;

gussets;

Pre-stiffened

Frame

fasteners;

Hinges.

20.

HANDLES

221

Design;

mng

Construction;

shaped

handles; cellaneous

INDEX

mng

Strength;

phn handhe

Pre-fabricated

Handle

types; Straight

оrпamеmadоns

handles;

Handle

民оuпdеd

fittings;

Mis-

fittings.

234

PREFACE

тhе cordenainers ь‫י‬аr5оus

раrτs

раττerпs

аnd

smradle

аs

5τ

‫ש‬οr고d

арреаred

оп

rhar

be invaluable

It is hoped proficiency

оr

‫ש‬h且сh

will enable

the subject

or technical

him to continue

examinations

such as those

of the

also

experi-

at their leisure. to reach a stage

on his own initiative

it will also be of some value as a reference

trade

and

in manufacture,

who have nopractical

that this book will help the beginner

that

he regarded

that a book upon this subject

concerned

like to study

comd

重or rhe smdem

indicated

to the many

ence and who would

ಲdsred

‫ש‬оr‫إب‬еr

reasons

be helpful to those retailers

that

попе

百оr rhe ехpеr支еnсеd

This and many other would

couege has rece5νed many 5mu5r5es 百rοm ror remboohs rhe design оr handdag

丁есhmca‫ال‬

оr τhе

City

book for teaching

and

of

and for

of London

Guilds

Institute. Irealize

that

comprehensive to enable to meet.

it

is impossible

to make

but in it sufficient

the serious-minded

a book

established

of this

principles

doohs

百оr τhe

wholly

student to solve the problems he is likely

also hope that it may serve to stimulate I

τеchmణ且

kind

are discussed

互ణτhеr

бооds

rndusrry‫و‬

production ല് ‫ש‬h虽сh

of more

so 百е‫ש‬

ех5sr

today. Although following

many

established

years of experience,

pattern-cutters

cuners

rhe sedes о重‫ اغ‬рdпс支р‫ال‬еs

in logical sequence to present composition

versed

thoroughly

hane given

hdped their

me алопg

wise

this book.

Without

the many

rh5s

‫ש‬оr虽হ‫و‬

direction A.M.B.I.M.,

College and

重оr

Iwould

has

‫ש‬h도сh

hаνe

been аrrаngеd

picture, and it is hoped blessing

the

of those

it would

that are

who

many

gratefully

and the Board

been

very

racmeies thank

апd

who

ห‫ةل‬hо

hape

ro τhоse

at

difficult

made

the

craftsmen

assisted

have unconsciously

experience

of teaching have

and present

о重‫ اغ‬eхреdепсе

on teaching—all

years

che

to the past

road

τhе

counsel

in writing

Technical

this

in the subject.

like to pay tribute

Ishould

a composite

arrangement

and

results

I hope they will agree after studying

of

the

successful

trial and error will be saved by future pattern-

book that many hours hy 꿋വിന്നdпg

obtain

the Cordwainers for me

аνайa‫اعل‬е

Principal,

J.

το

to present me

Korn,

m

τh互s

F.B.S.1.,

of Governors. W.C.

1959

D.

I

CHAPTER

consт囊苋夏cтro‫א‬

н요‫א‬oв且б

FORMATION

AND

DwRING the

last sixty

trade,

leather-goods rapidly that it forms a really important part of the and

course

of

por many τhе

and mеτa且 6n5ngs

rехτnеs‫و‬

р‫ال‬аsτ모сs‫و‬

соnτiпеmа‫ال‬

уణrs

demand‫و‬

dur

s5nce

and

In order to be successful

6rms

a woman wants

апd есоnоm5с

must

dy hand

new

and attractive not

On the other a good

fundamentals

design

in the

of carrying

of easy

be capable

mach5пe‫د‬

оr

a

of the craftsmen

hand a skilled

designs.

be attractive

only

her and must

thorough

of

knowledge

and the machines

соns5dеrа‫اعل‬e

and tools used in the making

produce

rhe

is however very keen both

must

have

аnd should spend some

reaused

hаνе

trading can only be maintained

a handbag

therefore

and capabilities

materials

8eir5sh

successful

to have about

manuracrure

designer

emр‫ال‬оуed‫و‬

고

೦5

pаrτ

grearer

but must above all fulfil its main purpose

appearance,

methods

আаr

a constant flow of original

by producing

The

mer τhе

‫اعل‬оr‫ال‬d

in quality and in design,

articles

manuracrurers

in world markets. Competition

opportunities

of other materials—

quantities

considerable

also absorbs

so

developed

has

industry

the handbag

years

the

likely to be

rime थाоr고dng

धर्मपरी rhe

of handbags.

craftsman

may

until he has spent

not have the ability

some

of colour, line, and composition,

time

in studying

to the

and has learned how

to

dmenㅁ At

least

careied

a handbag function

one

handbag

is now

а grear many оссаs互опsㅁ

оп

of some

sort

a necessity

rn racr

every

νеrу

woman

ror

rare

and

is

her ro апо‫ש‬

to be out of reach, whether she is at a social

such as a dance orcocktail

or merely

for

n 5s

party, visiting

friends,

shopping,

about her normal duties at home or at her place of employ-

ment. Many women will require several handbags and may

dаνе

usefulness

handhags

a handbag

ro go आईτh

is an essential

dmerenr

for various occasions,

оuರदेτs‫د‬

аs

арахт

part of the turn-out

重rоm

ns

of any well-

dressed woman. There different maredals

is therefore sizes, ಉh5ch

an infinite

shapes, mау

colours,

de

used

variety and

ror

of possible

fittings

rhe

as

designs

well

соmропепcs

as

о重

involving the

τhе

varied

dаg‫اعل‬

苋п

3

HANDBAG

dhen great

‫اغالاغ‬

‫هماغ‬

many

intended,

the exact

the appropriate

the choice of materials, penen evurse

rhe

md

ന്നnurnnuen

factors;

AND

CONSTRUCTION

FORMATION

the

and, very

the nature of the fittings

or enurncmm

please the ‘buyer’

мсж

hnpormm

cnnssder

finished

che

ല് വി‫و‬

of the retail organization,

а

is

article

in turn will

price, which

market

musr

dcsdgncr

for which

usc

influence likely,

deeign

the

musr

ല്

is in general

who

the best judge of what will please the ultimate purchaser.

Having decided on the general outline me dassncr method

men senh che rype

of joining

construction

CUT

EDGE

and the appropriate

or соп‫و‬cruceion

materials

and 5n eneicumr

rhe

parts. There are four main methods

the various

of

edge, faced edge, and turned.

called cut edge, rurned-ov'er

HANDBAGS

In this method the edges are not skived or turned over but retain the full thickness muhod laced

usod

together.

particularly

dy rhe

amareur‫و‬

where

тhе

rormer has

(Fig.

а

and polished.

deing

by

are used. of ‘glove’

or

dur саппов

ье

by the use

performed

by

hand

the same appearance

the glove

on both sides

of the work and it is much quicker to carry out. Innovations contrasting colour of thread may be used (black

The

materials

of cases, exposed

of vegetable

easily obtained

TURNED-OVER This

type

tannage.

п

หന്ന

apparent

ens

mmy during

feed sometimes

are,

edges which

semng

in the

of the

bag

is better

It also appears

pomr‫ء‬

majority being

and more

to be less

brittle

HANDBAGS

of construction,

where

(Fig. 2), is not used throughout

ras

a good

gmue апd hamss smchmg

το

EDGE

making the

because

such as a

on grey, or vice versa).

mcrerore

bag

need a good finish,

on vegetable

and me endre

edge

tanmage

when not Jaced

апd 5s

еус

for cut

selected

and

the manufacturer,

stitching can, thus saving considerable

of having

丁鼱 may de denmg m rhc

The

рunchеd

dener appearance

1). If both are

stitch has the advantage

used

may be improved

done by machine, while harness time and labour

еdgсs

leathers

hard, firm, or plated

appearance

smchsng

τhe

sometimes

It is however

The finished ‫ةل‬hаmess‫ال‬

stained

of the materia! and are usually

5s വിന്ന

ago‫ز‬

later

disturbs

decause

processes,

the

finished

the whole 5τ has

eneahnesses

is

visible

of a handbag ‫ש‬h且сh

decome

as

machining.

The

when

rounding

difficult

such

the turnover

turnover

construction

The method also demands a high degree of skill to prepare,

machine bends.

skive, and

nnenonc

cо‫א‬sาжucт‫ב‬o‫א‬

Fig.

complete

successfully.

main body of the bag

വന്ന

гопмпюп

Fig.

2

Therefore and

3

3

it is avoided, where possible,

for the

is only used in other parts when the design

mahs 5r соmрudsоrу‫ء‬ Here again the materials sdendan о重

ens

to be used play

eype оr 6n5sh‫اغ‬

sene

р‫اعل‬dణ‫و‬

an important

part in the

且ణrhеr dochs‫ د‬аnd harher

6

апd enens‫י‬

rhe cerm

аrе muod rhegsren

like part of a bag. This construction cutting and is basically

introduce 8১

cchsprer

rhe 5dns‫و‬

аc

colours,

b리r‫د‬

me surrοuпd료пg‫و‬

for economy in

makes

for this type of construction

that

they

the use of piecing

by

accessories,

French

and

വി rhe many

say norhmg

‫اعل‬

ror

used

who know

contrasting

FORMATION

from pieces

one of the reasons

being chosen by designers, can

AND

CONSTRUCTION

HANDHAG

seams

menirs τhаr

des5gn

become possible. This type of construction

also

calls

on the part of the pattern-cutter, snd рrоduα

‫اغ‬m derans

the machinist with the The a

he shomd

and are

for these

bags

variety,

since

when does

etc.,

may

the bag is being nor

provided

material

is

a

after

must

who being

co-operate

The

machining.

νеgеτa‫اعل‬с‫و‬

chrоmе‫و‬

soft

is of

of the kind of

sеm‫دل‬レchrоme‫و‬

responds

and

the आंक्षा

made.

distortion

complete

reasonably

skill

kind, provided it

of any

is

turned

धाhеrhеr

maner‫ء‬

the

be

there

of

dose undcrsrandmg

skilled

material

ന്നenge

а

degree

to visualize

be able

when the prototypes

‘non-cracking’

material

а‫ال‬sо hаνе

who in turn is highly

pattern-cutter

high

for a very

who should

to

the

distortion without cracking. If bags are to be made up on the French should

ror

de su5rable

applies

particularly

adhesives,

scam

to

rurrdng

plastics,

аnd

which

एसйh

generally

cotton-backed

In this connection

seam principle бх虽пg

plastics

the material

аdhе‫ء‬s重νс‫ء‬ require

are most

т‫اعل‬s special

suitable.

The unbacked

types are more suitable for piped or turned seams which,

hocause

rmure ല് me maredаﾇ‫و‬

опhе

gmr

а

dom

ఇpрణrапcе‫و‬

FORMATION When first design finished able

approaching

the pattern-cutter article

as it

to visualize

the

w madc оuτ and various

related

will fit

together

machine

will

cur‫اعل‬

the problem should appear

shape

to

In due course

up

the design

the pattern-cutter

οr me

rhe

ന്നdеm

This becomes dох

νers5оп

for a new

pictures

He should

parts

before

το сhеdc

of the then

重rеgucnrly pattern

and

the

that

me

pieces

hand

and

and economically. so experienced

prοсణsణ

be dealt

all

be

proceeding

the different

will become

сheddng

and shapes cannot

litde interior capacity. and

all angles.

that

patterns

mental

de ‫ש‬еп аdर्धाsеd

average woman knows that a handbag

τ‫ةلو‬pе

form

can be carried out efficiently

may de аd‫ال‬е ro വവി many Handbag sizes

from

to ensure

make

of cutting

to

of the individual

не wmupd

dimensions

processes

try

that he

memsoned‫ةيب‬

with at this stage but the

with no width at the base has very clear if a very large flat envelope аre

соmраred‫و‬

h

3s

оdν5оus

τhaτ

consтnucт里o‫اعل‬

н‫د‬屈нoвಗಿ8

the Capacity

ది‫א‬o

of the bag must be judged when closed, and

Ifa bulky article

not

when open.

is put into the flat type the bag is distorted

аnd ध्यе ‫آم‬sc rhe оr‫اعل‬nа卫

5nreneion оr a наτ‫ و‬undcroarm

the bare necessities—compact, This subject

7

ponhdanon

tissues, handkerchief,

will be further

considered

hag

ന

(Fig. 5)

carry

οn‫ال‬у

and purse.

when dealing

with handbag

bases. It can now hsenng

ಗಿಉ

be seen that a handbag

maaor

praeng

rronn

ьade‫و‬

should dorcorm

be of three

dimensions,

and nen епds‫و‬

τhc roral

being Called the body (Fig. 6, A). Thesixth

plane, the top, will, for the

sake

it is the one

of convenience,

relied нsр‫د‬

upon

rrame‫و‬

to

оr

be omitted,

supply dp

because

that

the feature of the design. Sometimes

ror

tes compheionenh

വി rhese धर्मп

is often

it carries

a

de dean ‫ש‬且rh

in sOme detail later.

one piece

of material

This shape is subject with the outline വ

as а drdeп

would

require

desired.

вaсh

This one-piece

which

is practically

a square

to alteration, provided It may

‫ש‬m сюаτе

৪

shape on the flat.

it supplies the finished

handdag

ല് dmercnr

hnerㅁ

method, if made from leather of substantial

many

processes

bag

be cut square, rectangular, elliptical,

to complete

its

thickness,

construction.

Paring

8

धन

HANDRAG

र्धार्थर्धाधार

wsist

ье

carrsed

in its shaping.

comes be

mm

CONSTRUCTION

Cost

in skins of limited

broken

‫اغاغاعل‬

down

оm

isa

h men nor

It should be mentioned

each

and,

hоలుеνer‫و‬

since

of these

me

so rhac

ам

leather

plancs

must

so as CO save

of parts

number

rramec

соп‫اغ‬сc

ccsr ല് chedr

greater than the valuc of thelcathersaved,

that plastic they

rhar

consideration,

and shapes,

sizes

da enr०dоne‫رب‬

advanuyr here, because

parcs

dns

into an economical

assembly tothe originaldesignis

one piece (Plate

оп

major

FORMATION

AND

materials

(in roll form) have the exteriors

enable handbag

to be made in than

far greater

a cost

1), thus saving labour,

that of

rhe maenm Plastic in sheet form also raises ns cheir

enesen

of leather imitations

problems

made upon them they

than the corresponding

plastic

rhe prcpmrory

of |ather since it must

in rolls. Nevertheless,

with plastic

аге

with

there

the best plastic more ехpens重‫ن‬е the

greatest

is

still a

and leather

m rhе

care,

casc

extreme

is not so important

This

during production.

panuns

much more

which is easy to wipe clean.

The beginner emdency

proceses

be handled

being essential

cleanliness

surrace cost

generally

distinct difference in the labour cost between dags dccause

to those of leather,

similar

3n sdag and cansng το τhе

аre mnsred

will often have difficulty

她 umsch

сm

cmy

should, however, persevere to take to pieces

for copying

оопмв

rrom

in the breaking లుрer虽еnсe

down process,

end

and resist the temptation in detail. This easy way

рrасdсe‫و‬

не

to obtain a model out can becomea

habit and destroy all initiative and originality. ears Proceeding from Fig. 6, B the aim should be to eliminate the csrncan nren ങ്ങenయిп as ‫ اش اعل‬০r ‫ ةعاساسم‬тье renm ന്ന rhc 佩 is an uneconomical

shape, and the division

further,

by gusset

division

may be done in numerous

separation,

should

as in Fig. 7, A

and

therefore

proceed

B. The three-piece

ways, as shown in the series

of

line

He diagrams,

with alterations

Figs. 8,9, and 10.

to the

major

parts

to give

body

shape—

HANDBAG

‫اعل‬ㄱ

моге divisions

നmр‫اغ‬х

required

may

ье enreied

tothe size of the original

pattern

subdivision

in the finished

introducing demned

dedgns

various

renuen‫اغ‬

naturally

9

lORMATION

窟

日屬

സr

of the front and back components,

they conform This

AND

CONSTRUCTION

ю

by mddng

有urrher

‫ء‬sudc

so long as when assembled

part.

increases

the

number

of seams

article and this in turn gives opportunities

designs, accessories,

ornamental

for

seams, and other

2

cн且pтన్п

MAKING-

CUTTING-PATTERNS

AND

罗оnм‫د‬表‫ء‬п0‫دع‬ MAKING-PATTERNS, ежеюл

are not usually because

sometimes

mrersor

and

made up into a replica

‫اعل‬hen

rhey are 8nished

and make any necessary is often made

and

or reproduced

of the bag in three dimensions of the cutting.

5৪ made το chedc τhе рarrerర్ｪs

a samme

adjustments.

A duplicate set of the final patterns The original patterns are stiffeneq

in a firm material

deariy

of

丁hе‫سو‬

filed for reference.

bound strawboard,

positions

consist

ror a drueprmp

as a sudseiruce

their main purpose is to help in the production

penems‫اغ‬

should

working-patterns,

called

paper рenerпs

for working

shcen

of pleats,

τhe

‫ש‬оrచెcеr

dench

accessories,

plain or brass-

like zinc, fibreboard,

This set of making-patterns

purposes.

rhe ройпrs

any

and

оr сопτacr‫و‬ marks

further

сeпrres‫و‬

to help

pro-

duction. From

the making-patterns,

ser 邑пdu des‫ב‬

고eаτher

раττems‫و‬

a set mdng

ing patterns, and padding patterns. completely to make

carry It

particularly

all the information

that

is not

pattems

good

available

Their areas and shapes

policy because

so it would

possible

with the turned may

to

аlsо

unless

only

the occasion

ణ

τhе

set

the design

where one

repear orders‫ء‬

тhеу

or cutting

but

not

both,

should

of

and

combination

may arise when they are needed

аre

should be taken that the information

set

and cutting.

of these

by both the cutter and maker at the same time, as often happens mass рrоduα且оп

was

combination

mamng‫د‬раrτеrп

for making

one

Each

snㅠеn‫ف‬

are generally

to havea

type of handbag,

de used

оr

be no use to attempt

however

is necessary have

is made.

reinrorceamem

the making-patterns,

simple. Itissometimes

cureing‫ف‬раττеms

henher

раnеrns‫و‬

from one another

a bag with only

extremely pattern,

different

of cutcing-patterns

rhererore

dupucarcd‫و‬

for one department

appear

on

each

set

during

duc

сarе

only, making and

thus avoid

confusion. The calculation depending needed

оп

of cutting-pattern

sizes

rhe rype οr соnsrruсdоп‫ف‬

is the addition

making-pattern edge നന്നവവിന്ന

of turnover

areas, as shown de оrаn

por

margins,

in Figs.

mrrteace

can

паτurе

be simple

a raced

where

11 and опе

or complex

еdgе sryle ап rhar 5s

12.

necessary, Should

musr see τhar

to the

the faced

по

еssепeiаl

MAKING-

AND

11

CUTTING-PATTERNS

따ヽ

‫رم‬2‫طط‬

‫اعل‬mರm

‫ همو‬లుmп

rr ‫ة‬

屠右

胁ュ

‫اغةيد‬

cunum

pnunn

ని

厂 幽‫ةيباغ‬

围g‫ء‬

marginal

‫ةيبدال‬ㅁ

п

for assembly

has occurred

This is one reason

why

of the

position

If a technical

purposes.

and mass production

‫اعلاك‬

‫د‬sర్ర్‫وي‬

п

has started

error of this nature

the seriousness

of such a

of the component part have been cut.

mistake is clear if large numbers

the

‫בה‬

‫ةنوء‬

have been omitted, such as those that act as seam

allowances

allowances

इक्ष्यप्र

‫اجلدن‬

дцд

a prototype

above)—and

is made (mentioned

is considered

pattern-cutter

to be one of respon-

sibility. In comparison, required

for

allowances

a more

turned

added

complex

handbags.

to them which must

the material cut to their shapes to form a single

together two

or more

different

surfaces,

angles

(Figs.

equally important SO, upon these viated

terms

have

machining

be absolutely

and

accurate

may

be

turnover because

is not just two or more pieces machined

plane

which

but often forms may

leave

their

a shape points

consisting

of

of contact

at

13 and 14).

to emphasize

patterns,

and

of cutting-patterns

series

These

signs

theimportance

the pattern-cutter which

convey

of their correct marking ;

issues

instructions

to the cutting

in abbre-

department

the

2

MAKING-

mmwa

‫ اغس‬р5ങ്ങ

реr

CUTTING-PATTERNS

AND

வпсle

and how

rhe

addition there should be added any markings time, for it must be understood labour cvst. Therefore, धाम‫اعل‬mпm

posdde

once

аmоum

marerm

5s

rn

de сur‫ةل‬

handling is an additional

that repeated

the pattern is in position should

d marddng

co

that will save construction

de

pattern is lifted. Time is lost during the production

of

for cutting,

done

beidre

the mg

large numbers

if

the bench worker has to place the pattern again on to the cut material to perform

any

kind

of marking

cutter. So again, it is necessary nsed

hnaniedgc

dedda

that

rhc 且টm3τar且oпs

yo

by

the

and tech-

;

2

:

A

done

mаr‫اعل‬пgs‫د‬

,

x

been

that experience

വി τhesс

cg

¥

have

could

to mention

/

¢

Fig. 15

Here patterns

it would

perhaps

to appreciate வ rhe

еdg‫ى‬

рdnr

hohs

assist

the machinist,

ध्यm

girth

set of cutting(Fig. 15). The

de rhe cemrs

аnd

chcddng

for example,

рല്nrs

a girth

piece, could not, with confidence,

оп

‫ وايلر‬88 c‫ءال‬

round

shoudd

out of

where, for example,

τheу

position.

point

noc do so τhеп

This

will

also

X, which should

τhe

alter

finish

to

το

an

perform

them, The aim would be to see that the three

has moved

position,

see a medium

of their markings

to

who, if machining,

elliptical or circular-shaped the task without ‫ ةيرب‬8‫ و‬c‫ و‬शिधर्मउ

be helpful

the importance

points ‫ש‬hо‫ال‬e its

top

vertically

MAKING-

cnen в‫وال‬

has

ല്ക്കു

mened

CUTTING-PATTERNS

AND

ല് posseiom

оur

sr

аnd‫د‬

13

podm х ‫ اك‬ю comacr

the centre of a frame thatis to be fitted top dead centre over the bottom, then the result when

is a distorted

standing

тhese

ро5ж

marhs

being

after

by

the

de cons5dered

any handbag

de

holes

The point

nణr

allowance

Where spacing attached

aperture arcached‫و‬ the

uроn than

them

these

τhе

another

on

more of

operation

would

of being

роs支dоns

аτ

cut τhe

leather

of great

me

be

‫ש‬hеre

the

‫ال‬earhеr

to indicate

outside

‫ש‬оrh く围g‫د‬

of

the

so

that

rబ‫ء‬

stitching. fixing

of a bar, covering

positions

any

tab or

and

and

some

being

all

sde оr rhe handdag‫د‬ for an accessory,

is required that

when

the

accessory

the is

not visible.

accessoeies

аre

which has

shape

h धारm

form,

from which the article is being

arranged

rhe

cutting,

апd

hole

so

same

meieian for

are

be

beless; this then guarantees

variety

dessgn

one point

can be adopted to

they

τhe支r

they

ല് τhe hand且க‫د‬

of the material

must

роssക്കുе‫و‬

аs

should

up bythe line

positions

holes are hidden

method is

are

composed

made dependng

mc

Y', Z! the

accessories

margin;

5п good guahry

апd у‫ و‬2 τhe роಯбоп

metal, others

rhe cdge

ര

at Y, Z, Y', Z! are

of the accessories;

These

that will rock

instead

made in the leather surface will show, which

a сrйne

machining

৪s

their being inside the margin or picked

рunеr‫د‬

bottom

positioned

the stitching

machining

margin, then the puncture ‫ש‬оu모d

diagonally

shomd

governed

that

arranged

bag with a twisted

frame

over the base.

centralized

margin

a

and

and

оссupу‫اغ‬

shows

the

geing

a dual

size

as

тhе leather

το

de

purpose.

the

anaсhеd‫و‬ First, an

accessory

рenerп‫و‬ surface

‫ש‬hеn

to

be

p‫ال‬аణd

through

this

MAKING-

Iq

AND GUTTING-PATTERNS

nmmanm nny or hen h en or chh hy en en uw hnhcr hr dme nren డతో enndhrcp unhan dy nn enum or en hmhcr 腺甜 ‫ اغ‬ന്നесന്നom‫اغ‬വി secondదిу‫داعلש ر‬ юп

enen ‫ساقالاعلدل اعل‬

സ

m出 rhn ‫اعل‬ന്ന

en hdp

ല് n വിങ്ങ

rm ам ‫ والسانل‬rhc cenen anm ‫ש‬hпе

in position, mark round these apertures, of the

shape. It must be clearly

eccessory

of these apertures

marking substitute

and cannot

always

understood

in addition

is not

rhc

tracing or marking

be adopted,

that

to point

‫ةم‬

ρм‫اغ‬m

anoutline the outline

Aoles;

but the judicious

it

is u

choice

of

one or other of these may save much bench work. In addition to point holes and aperture

guides

there may be shaded

lined-off areas which are, perhaps, onc of the most useful contributions ‘They indicate that in these areas may be placed

to the cutting-patterns. materials quality

which are slightly

creased, scarred, or loose in texture. ‘This

of material must not be placed

arranged

that it occupies

or in a shadowed

in prominent

any area upon the pattern

position upon the finished

portion of the gusset

which surrounds

a frame

"These areas vary in size and much depends frame, and method isualize

that

a

bag

of construction with inserted

for their

gussets

has

en rrnmc

so

that

part

or closed, such as the

hinge.

upon the design, planning.

type

It is easy

not only the front

‫ اعل‬omhg enen hm en ‫ ةم‬ല്ക്കു n nnghc നnc‫اعل‬mem ല്

but

is recessed

article or forms

creased when it is opened

which is automatically

positions which

of

to

and

ല് rhc pen

rhnr hdda rhc en‫ ء‬धामअलउ chc юр ല് dm suenn ‫ש انلاعل‬mpp‫اعل‬

en chg hmge ല് rhe

rmne

а

rdd ‫ ةم‬ende 5ns5de

she hng ய ങ്ങn

‫وال‬

outside, so that the space taken by these folds may be taken as a place for a lined-off area (Fig. 17).

part of the gussct which is attached area,

and, being in

pairs,

to the front ofthe bag as a shaded

left and right gussets must be considered; for,

MAKING:

um 3cn4mndcd

‫لاعلاسلال‬

the poorer

the front

‘!hesc

arcas

such

may

allows

rapmnunmcs

pleats for hiding ‘To wavy

interior

psmcm

р5есe‫ء‬

npcanumg being

of the

hecausc

lincs

тhe‫و‬с

as

so that

lining travels

be planned

τhere

patterns may

musr

eneeior

a guide after

‫ال‬hе

hnp rhen धीरक्षण

‫ال‬ന്നc

inserted

5৪

for

ങ്ങр‫ال‬e

space

mnrer‫واعل‬

isolated

its

bag provides

nenn

enrh

of the

assembling,

apply group

rhc

rheir purposc

placing

and

the

bag, provided

5n rhc

dircctions

in onc

nm he соnrused

the

of the

Often, a pleated

the same

appear

cutting

and

part

ല് rhe

in the material.

in the same direction

watermarking

in Fig. 18.

‫اعل‬

1§

will be scet on the gusset

on any

these weaknesses

douhdm

to act

material

he nnnchen

leather

for this concealment.

or lining

straight

of

rypro

quality

CUTTING-PATTBRES

side,

in the right-hand

composition

AND

йned

оп йnйng

patterns the

but upon

on

a few cach

аювв

rnr

mrmrns to fabric

cord of the

fabric

to present, where possible, harmony

cord

lines

themselves,

as

illustrated

MARING-

16

‫ اعل‬en wennd reason

en 5n

for its selection

pattern, across

of

AND

CUTTING-PATTERNS

me

dng chnn hs లుunrerрarr‫ة‬

as the cord and

if arranged

dds 5s ene

vertically

on the bias on others, the watermarkings

on one

are thrown

Bapover bags if the main section of the body lining is reverse to that of the flap (Fig. 19).

PATTERN

NUMBERING

the front.

n en

nennn

n സm邑

The side panels of the front are the reverse daape en other

опе

ens rhe рలు看eiоn

the right. Therefore,

unless further

instructions

it is impossible are added

of each other in surface

且献 വി rhe

сకిпτrс

to use

to ensure

that

ener

one

апd rhe

pattern

these

panels

only are

cut in pairs. This is done by adding to the side pattern cut (it does not

мఎк窟‫ال‬己ఇ‫د‬

which side is selected)

matter

;

it

is

completion correct

left

of

ssnglc

up’.

chc

one gmss

of singles

and

рa己rs

according

then turns

any method

the

over

рн

us

to his choice

pattern

provided

on the other വി mnds

for

he finishes

to

their

with the

mechod

ror

ud

some prefer another bearing

This

rererse

the

required

instruction s5dе‫و‬

сumng

method

dur‫و‬

unit

оrτan

nar

number

is supposed ns

‫داغ‬s

ndoprcd

dy

വി

(2) where there are a pair

to

and

prevent

happens

5n

the

words

the error

rcpeeidnn

of

‫اغالال‬ur缺‫و‬

are still possible.

mistakes

these

In comparing

is placed

the pattern

two methods in method

have

been cut; or in method

uncn

‫ اشل‬hane deen сधा‫ء‬ turn the pattern

either

‘

circle and the word

naarel

pairs.

cach

of patterns

cunsng

gross

or right

penrcm

manufacturers;

side

I

m

реrhарs‫و‬

; or he may adopt

number

тh5s

number

‫ال‬т

.

j

over, we find a repetition

rmumng

bags cuts the first

whether

‘this

the pattern

so rhe cnncr

gross

the

‘1’

it.

turned

Having s5dе‫و‬

cp了т‫اغ‬ర్c‫ماغ‬రాಗಿттвnнs

:

outside

‘over’

ಗಿ‫א‬o

replace

not

matter

which way

up

ofpanels

(2) it does not matter which one is used

ln dmh

యిe

τhе

рюpеr

аcdоn

musr de mhen‫ةيب‬

over when half have been cut, or discard

as required

the pattern

it does

(1) until half the number

in method

(2). Attention

and

given to such

detail is important.

COLOURED It

has

PATTERNS

been

the commercial

ser ല് வn巨пg‫د‬раnems

ങ്ങр置ere

This is perhaps satisfactory owing

to seasonal

practice

rrom

my

for many опе

years

to produce

rype аnd ന‫ال‬оur

when they are to be used for short

fashion trade, when their numbers

a

ei board‫ء‬ periods,

are small, but for

large numbers of patterns, when all groups are taken into consideration, it is a good idea to adopt a colour scheme, not necessarily but perhaps rming‫و‬

аnd

for the three main groups, namely, exterior

srmenmg grey,

black, red, and

if adopted

throughout a factory

As an alternative соdоured

smps

сο‫اعل‬ured

paper‫و‬

5s

ю

വിങ്ങ

τhere

п rhese кhree alternative

the time saved in sorting

tO imagine

admry

раuems‫د‬

or anyother

оr

shaped

dsseingussh

5s

smponanr‫د‬

dy

раnerпs тhe

need de no 5пd5сadоn

them before cutting

а

5s

rudder

ല്sо

rurrher

оr

τheу

may

of de

mу оrher rrenhnd래

group

adenmage

an rhe раnems

5п

is begun, and

the attachment

suecasruh

smmр‫ر‬

വി a pamcudar

లుణలుయిలుకి

to a minimum.

patterns

coloured

mrchs

аre

colours, it is not difficult

it reduces mistakes

to completely

5nh appued

grenps

for all groups

leather, interior

кeiτhоur

വി rms

hssmson

schemc

5s

enr

as ю umerher rhеу reprennr

18

MAKING-

meeinr teanhers

nr 5nrersnr

AND

CUTTING-PATTERNS

mang

rahrsen

ns rhrs 5৪ shourn

erc‫ن‬

elour, On the other hand if the pattems are all of one colour

Piece of every

group must

in addition

represents

It may

be appropriate

to discuss

i.c, the use of press

Patterns,

psen ror

‫ال‬psణ‫اغ‬

bear a written

опе

here

tools.

detail. of permanent

the advantages

This

it

of the material

indication

to all the other necessary

‫الس‬

‫اعل‬

then cach

does

not

all the

that

mean

dur rreg ucnuy

dagare сuτ dy permanem раnerns‫و‬

sen and shape оr соmpопсms such ลఇp‫و‬hఇവിe‫ و‬podten धा acccssory can hc uscd rnore man dag and mereren iusrmgs mc use οr рrణs τoо且s ror mahsng

chc ‫ةم‬धारㄷరా

number of identical

guarantee

ehsn en use ല് rhc ణme

standardization materials

components

required.

They

of cach part but are immense

as stiffenings

only

not

labour savers

are being pressed out in packs.

manufacturers made

to

it can

specifications

his particulars

Submit

be obtained

who advertisc

from

produced

by

journals,

in the form of paper patterns

tools

but, if informatool

press tools

‘hese

are

who

may

or drawings.

‘he

pattern-cutter,

the

‫فاعل‬

when such

established

the

in the trades’

genenh пурс

How these

are made will be of little assistance to the pattern-cutter, tion is required

ав

опс

ന്ന

extent of detail which the tool manufacturers

can include in their tools

is

point

remarkable

when

one realizes

that

holes,

shape of the material itself can be pressed limitation to the intricacy i.e. will the

additional

and the

markings,

The only

in one operation.

of thetool andits product is that of economy, cost

of the tool

by

be recovered

savings

in

material or labour ? Another type of

pattern is that

permanent

made from zinc. Patterns

can be selected in the same way as for press tools except press

tools

cutting-

applied

to cutting-patterns,

and making-patterns,

zinc

although

the

can

be

time

that, whercas for

used

saved

this

both for

way

cutting material is less.

ror

‫ ءدر‬வτന്നg‫د‬рanerп can be produced

sores

and

а hrge оюег

centres,

ctc. (indicated

When the template

is not rubbed

ene ന്നക്കുങ്ങ

оr

or

поr

merdr

a рress

are the positions holes

point fine

described

holes

awl and

ragged

with

ам rhrough rhe hо且ణ‫رب‬

the

leather at the same

previously).

serrated ‫اعل‬hсп

herc and τherс

has an extensive

आईrh che hand 5৪ much guteher

through

burr

hold the pattern in place, and

time. If the pattern

won

for acces-

are tapped

on the pattern to hold it in place while he cuts

the burrs bite into the leather,

рrсssnrс

punch

down but left

धारीh rhe ройп

exerts pressure

by point

is being made these

the zinc with a sharp centre underside

rhar does

in zinc. On this template

on the

edges

me

to

currer

round

it,

mark

the

area a little

τhап

maddng

MAKING-

5пd苋‫ن‬重duവിy pmmrn hoard

धर्मτh

ап

аधर्म‫ء‬

3৪ sein reguned

and

rhrcrs

the marking,

drmm

the rivets

AND

CUTTING-PATTERNS

оr‫اعل‬naп

п rhe

rnr use n

сап

rhmugh being

hurrs

he соνсred

sumdenny

held

in place

rar

धारक्षा

19

dσध्यn

and

on rhc undersddc rnr τhdr

by a second

ро5пю board

rhe धर्मधी

m do on top

of the zinc. It is casy

to spend much moncy

on patterns of this nature by having

them made by a tool maker from some harder metal, but it must be left to

the

judgment

adoption.

of the manufacturer

whether

the cost

justifies

their

CHAPTER

pк且мвs

IT

ts important

for a

pｪтт苋‫א‬бs

దిlर्थo

荤mmದ

hen m соmd켰ne

may hare mared

धा

durable,

and

mem бn‫اغ‬вhсsg

mг

handbag

various

efficient,

and to be

meen

must be covered with material, as should used a great

the

to know

pattern-cutter

fittngs well, which will be the most adte ю 5udgc han‫اغ‬

3

rhe hmen

wooden

deal during the war when there

frames

0r లు‫اعل‬sе‫و‬ were

which

were restrictions

on the

use of metal. It

is

to be able to examine one’s own framed

quite an education

after it has had some considerable

use; not only is it amazing

ment

is astonishing

some bags

receive,

shown up in frame ог

соmer‫ء‬

оr

a αnсh

the bag as a whole that the owner

囧置

and

herself

το

not

dosg

τhe owner

has contributed

en main gen

ല്

what

If a frame should

in the accessory;

loading the bag, and straining тhе

it

but

construction.

at its hinge

аrеะ

‫ألل‬

ങ്ങ de d置ణppㅇsп‫اغ‬d it is probable,

towards

m use

are

weaknesses

break

however, by over-

the damage

to close it.

the weak points when trying

rmmc

work

the treat-

иന്ന‫ز‬n

secndn

аnd

rsds

section; but a further type (Fig. 21) is known as the inverted section.

seen at a glance as the weakness frame

when

the ‘twist

it is opened

knob’

fastener

can be caused

and closed. have

no

by the movement

For example,

sort

frames

of mechanism;

of

the

closed

the

by

locking

窟nదిмనేs

is arranged

action

position.

centre

another, be

is

pnay

demeen

must

close

the

frame

the

rherm

धर्मऑन

gap

а

knobs

are set

along

are incorrect

rhg

in

are forced

np ০r mg

an

off-

one

past

there may ‫اغ‬g smgr

n

When the bagis closed both the front and back halves of the

momemarny

аю

reach

knobs

2苋

by fixing a knob each side of the frame

To

and if the angles at which they

closed.

鲁rame

రాrттп奸бs

入周己ｺ

rorced

dead centre,

just

ою

оr айgnmеm

before

bestrain at the hinge and corner

passing.

sn

At

rhe

this

momcm

moment

parts (Fig. 22). This

rhg

there

is worse on

. 1 :

|

'

‘ cvoseo

some

frames

than

on

others;

frame (which is attached ‫ש‬orsc

sumrrers rrom

angular or half-round

τh5s

the

cheaper

original

to the bag by machine) dmordon

rrens

shapes, or they may

inverted

is perhaps

сап

dc suppned

be rectangular

corner, but some of the dangers of twist knob fasteners

machine

one of the as recr‫ةيب‬

with a round

apply toall these

variations. Upright small

section frames

rounded

rrsmssd

hаνе

corners. mnred

of the cheaper Other

corncrs‫و‬

grades

are pressed out and have

frames

(including

drned

ror

grecner

the

better

snengrh

machine ല്опg

τhc

22

FRAMES

ന്നവി

നdτh

reasonably

оr rhc

‫الساعل‬

вαh

strong and should

able to withstand If viewed

లుm

gap оn

а

are

соrпеr

side section 5m5de

еνcry

which

frame

and

соrner‫و‬

section a small angle iron is fitted, strong enough the frame. The wider the frame section

നns巨dе‫دال‬еd

as well as being

knob fastener.

by a twist

a square-corner

shen

or rrame

rypes

stand up to normal use

the strain imposed

closely,

heen hrared

FITTINGS

AND

che соmeгs

аs

knob fastener

is not

the more rigid

In each type of upright hinge appears

flat. The

sman

held dy τh5s

are οn‫ال‬у

popular

nor

τhс

to retain the shape of it becomes

attached, owing to the greater Width of metal on the corners che dаg‫ و‬dur

has

5ns5de

angre

when

and round

mm a τмsr

on this type of frame.

and side

wider

section

frame

the shoulders

stronger

it should

srronger

重rame dm 5rs h5nge 5s ‫ש‬ణ‫ال‬cer‫اغ‬

be; if compared,

the upright тh5s

the end

of a

flat

section

5৪ ап

а

view

hinge may

maner

of

the

are, the seem the

оrоρ且п五oп‫و‬

but both types of frame section are superior in every way to the cheaper machine frame.

MACHINE

FRAMES

Unfortunately,

the machine

knob

twist

оr τhе

опе

fastener.

frame has two outstanding

and the other

of which one is aggravated

If a spring

‫ש‬ణlനеssеs

‫ש‬m

be

catch

completely

type of fastener

оνеrсоmе

аnd

weak

places

shattered

rhe

is used

or

md

by the instead,

rhc

rmmg

prolonged. Fig.

23

shows the back

and

front

and an enlargement of the corner ison

of

above,

this

frame

with the

views of the cheaper and

hinge

upright

it will be found that it is derived

mnddc

లుhеп

mached

frame (it is actually

το

а

inverted)

and

minimum.

are

When

enganm

opened

round

rhc msdde

mitred corners (they have not been brazed

(Fig.

23,

Band C) unlike those on an upright

‫ةس‬r en‫ و‬uench 5s рaп о百rhс

be thicker than the frame. limited. ( %,

in.)

The of

mitre

metal,

top

Therefore

is only

held

its

section

from the

s5de seceion

width

together).

section

at their

a

the

together

by

These mitres

bases

rrame nscm

the strength

fastener

of

as

frame, are on only

of these a

by a thin

so mey cannor corners is

narrow

upon these two points rests the strength A twist knob

only

is

in.

3

because

s©

comer on the frame.

com-

rop оr rhe dag and τhеrе

one side of the section and are held in position msge ല്ങ്ങ

а

frame a

mentioned

approximately

it looks like an upright

धर्मdrh о百mcവി

mcc

margin;

% in., whereas a true side section will measure

‫اعل‬gе

sections

h юою

narrow

of very

side

machine

By making

from both. If viewed

doscd‫و‬

dag апd

parts.

would

strain

margin of every

these points

FRAMES

FITTINGS

AND

23

сοmеrs‫و‬

the that

somc

framing

but

does not overstrain

for hinges, as they When a machine of the frame is like τhe

manuracmmrs

henddag

process,

Fig.

are sensitive

the frame

upward

down

to have

The same

to movement

touch when closed,

rhe

аng‫ال‬сs dudng

a frame

respect

fastener

must be shown

in the wrong direction.

धर्मп

рr‫اك‬s

tight

upanrds

when

‫ש‬hen

τhe

open, dag

5s

forces the hinge up between the legs of

it prevents

This

but if the hinge of the frame

of the bag is rather

h5nge

pressure

(Fig. 24) and

the frame is closed.

better

bagis looked at from one end the inside faces

and the gusset

pnn surroundsng

closed. This

the corners.

framed

should

23,

рur 5n enm mе‫اعل‬

it is much

can only

again at the risk of breakage

them

from coming

together

by bending

be put

right

(which

does often

when

the hinge

happen)

and the

a same thing is likely so on until the former c

to happen

hinge

again when

eventually

snaps.

types of frame section slight

the bag is next

On the other

tightness

closed, and

hand, with

of the material

the

will not

24

FRAMES

апю

rhe hsnges

аs

സ‫اعل‬d

hase enher

rrame

hsnge 5n τhe

or

क्षाt‫ש‬аrd

section

shorter

there is a similar

being

secured

by

the

to

hinge

3moh

frame, which is a of the

hinge and

pins

main

spacing collars,

to that

of the machine

tightness at these

if there is any gusset

and some part

of the bag out of the frame,

give way.

The danger with inner frames, which years

inner

frame

downwards

when things are put into the

zmmer,

ago, is that

frame hinge outwards;

the

eventually

base

gusset

it will snap and

the inner frame and had their hinges

frames

to the outside

plate attached

supporting

the

hinge

pin

thus

and

forced

and this bends the main

when fitted with inner frames; a popular

strengthened

being

is always

the two frame legs will part. At one time some

a small neat

as popular as they

are not now

were some

its

rhe enisc

оп

with an inner

in the pattern-cutting

usual result

dsrsenen

rype വി mschme

വി rhe раnеrп‫ف‬cunеr‫اغ‬

rhe responssdmcy

hinges is the direct pulling must

ье ь‫ال‬аmеd

attached

童n ㄷ‫اعل‬s

ro rhe

oamagc

casmor

frame

danger

frame hinge. The

ебесrs‫اغ‬

en denng

rogcrher

сοmс

ю

апу eighmcss

sо‫و‬

frame is fitted

secondary

frame, its position

eνеп

descnded

‫ש‬аy

FITTINGS

mn uhdy

аrе

5s 6ned3g

重аsrenеr‫اعلةيب‬s

क्षा‫اغو‬оrher

If an upright much

rhey

mner rmne

కun且అsаn

AND

was

adaptation

of the frame section, reinforcing

the

hinge

(Fig. 25). There

are

difference

many

outline

and the popular

types

to which

one because

gathered

of

frames

attached

‘sheens’

section

shape

the

The

and

入

metal

rrame

or ‘liners’,

for the covering

сoνеdпg

they

is cut

material is pushed up inside the frame section,

sheens are supplied

they are not used, as they pleats or gathers cannot

SIDE

only itself

section

as

are

of

is a

leather

other

frames

5s 巨mроrrаnr

are narrow

are put

আয়ারn

Soft

steel

into their main

too Wide

and

it will prevent

endch 且s пхеd w τhe dag‫ و‬rrom seaeing nsdr hsgh up 5n rhe sight. Although

the

for accommodating

by a covering

state,

which

before

where

of the section

cylindrical

capacity

is enhanced raw

to the top of bags

If the leather

frames.

in the

ro de ооνеred‫ء‬

with

are fitted

is

is shaped.

bags. As its appearence

enuch are meanr tags

it

given

its strength

or plastic, it is supplied

frame

of upright

from the examples

the extra the sheen,

rrame

оuτ ല്

with some upright section frames,

are only really

be accommodated

successful

on flat surfaces;

by a sheen.

CHANNELS

тhе

many

probably

the

endceies most

оr sdde

popular

secdon

kind

οτ

of frame

еdge‫ةيب‬οpе‫ء‬п도ng nowadays.

rrames

There

are

is, for

п‫د‬mмss

the long-legged

example, is long, the

even deeper.

Or

side

stops

which

frame, which has a leg as deep as the frame

are

a

of the greater

hy dosmg

വി τhеsе

опе

25

Fig. 26 shows this kind of frame

hinge. Because

and pushing

нттлнбв

రుнв

help

great

depth

百rаmеs

in preventing

and

leg it would be easy

of

rmed ‫ש‬虽τh

а

illustrates

damage to

swned rypc ०5 sprsng cmch

one half to the left and the other to the right, it can move

as far as the width of the catch if there are no side stops р3асе‫و‬ the

क्षाd

slot.

spring holes

rar

లులు

This

catches and

to the

force the

sort

లుоugh

重оr rhc rangue ല് τhе ణrсh

of movement

naturally

are fitted with posts, instead

prevent

this

sort

of movement

strains

to hold it in

το

come cm

the hinges.

or

Some

of a tongue, which fit into and

make side

stops

un-

пеоеങ്ങrу‫ء‬

WOODEN

FRAMES

If it should ever be necessary dm a साооdеn

rememder

rmme

to use wooden frames, it is important to dmers 百rоm

being likely to split if, for example, channel,

重rаmದ

аrе

there should

meam ro be നνеred‫ةم‬

hinges, which are a separate with its surface.

hinges raised

опе‫ر‬

decomcs

material.

rrom

ν‫اعل‬νеd

be an even space between

frame to allow for the covering

百mmе

mem

espedany

5п

whereas a metal channel can be opened and closed if necessary.

‫اعل‬oоdеп covering

a

too much material is forced into its

and‫و‬

‫ש‬hen

by the

let into the wood and flush

n

from the frame; this can be rectified too high the covering

లుd bddre

This space is controlled

metal fitting

If they are too deep this covering h5ngedound

ന്നe

the two halves of the

5s

space is lost and the

doscd‫و‬

‫اعل‬юnсhக

by a packing.

τhе

If they are

space is not only too wide, but the hinges

26

FRAMES

um

mute

а

5ump

аτ

τhe

FITTINGS

AND

base

വി ణсh

leg

undemeach

сονersпg

rhc

(Fig. 27). the bag is to be inserted

The channel in the frame into which

being particularly

be of even depth and width, the depth

4

P

{

%

Hl

afl

T

rmdn

| Ui

|

The cover of

Zo

|

=:

the type

Fig. 27

pattern

the shape

by

are governed

shapes

芦路 28 may be cencred

धर्मओ

to ensure

coverings

on the two frame surfaces

one-piece

method

is not

that

cover

for a two-piece Fig. 29 shows

than

7

i

a lot

me

NOT

ежra

such

With

but

the

there

two-piece

maredar

taking

must

be a neatly

any

skived

is

taken

much the same; on round softness or hardness тье rccenguhr

of

frames

This hard

needed pleats.

cover; it

from inside

up into the channel

the

again,

TO SCALE

pleats join

(Fig. 28, dotted line). The labour cost

out

for a one-piece

s/

covering

as

rhe 5rmde

ന്ന

We

NA

outline

it is closed.

рlеаrs

of time

the material

COVER

when

m use τhе

the frame and

‘

of the frame, round

еасh ৪5de 克苋 5τ 5s ടവി

firm materials

as the frame, and its width

channel, out and right round

оп

The

there will be no pleats in the

оr remanmg

to waste

how to measure

be as long

р3есе

that meet with

possible

ല് rhe dimcuhy

decause

опе

重асеs аnd h may ье more еcоnоmiса且

must

Fig. 28

leather, and the amount at one’s disposal,

leather, made thin enough

pdgsrdn

should

important.

are

Fig. 29

hidden

round

the

by

of the two coverings

the

choice

really

the

inside

facing

top

edge

is probably

depends

on

the

the leather.

‫ש‬οоdеп

rrame

пееds

gu5re

а

ddrerem

аpprణch‫و‬

ణ

FRAMES

hcre

rhe ‫ال‬аdоur

Square

corners

surfaces

ല് сσνеr虽пg

cannot

economdcar

method,

the outside

without

27

mitre

cons5deraeiom

joins on one or both

joins per frame is dependent

of

and here the one-piece

5r ‫ ىاغ ةم‬made оr 且eаrhеr

each inner

FITTINGS

5৪ τhе mosr 虽mрοrrаm

be covered

of each end; the number

the covering

on

cosr

AND

demusc

method

may

оr‫اغ‬τhе nw mnrcs

upon

not be so he madc

το

half of the frame (Fig. 30).

and

turning

the cover

over the top. With

both kinds

of

a cover

the wooden

covering

‫ىاغ‬

(Fig. 31). This cannot

dyed ro march

the difficulty, be considered

FRAME

after

be helped

rhe соνеr‫ء‬

and usually

ది rhrее०р5eсе

the wood หവി sohre

but may put up Costs too far to be practicable.

This will

later.

types

do not seriously

of frame fasteners ന descrsdc

affect

been described

knobs usually

shaped

are in existence

rhem ап‫ و‬ന്നd

pattern-cutting.

already

or looser so long as the welded

channel and burred

it would

that сasе

on a purse

over

be

rhe mdodry

is a device

made

of two

balls; on

to the angle at which they are bent and fixed, тhе

smanesr

on purse frames, but all sizes can be adjusted

knobs

апу

The twist knob fastener, which

in this chapter,

τhе srrengrh оr τhе且r snap dcpends‫ء‬

small

m

as spheres, acorns, drums, or flattened

their size and, according

The

corners

perrem

use arcemprsng

has

at the inside

FASTENERS

So many по

shows litile

where the material has to be cut to turn it up into the channel

of the frame shomng

foundation

orfixing

ехаmр‫ال‬еs

ध्यm de round

to make their grip tighter

point

frame are just

is not disturbed. cut through

the frame

at the back and cannot be treated very roughly.

The spring catch fastener is a reliable

one butits action, though simple,

may give trouble if the part of the frame where the spring

goes isfilled

AND

FRAMES

28

mo пghτ‫اك‬ is closed

‫ש‬hh

hendhag

it pinches

mareeid

the spring

FITTINGS

so rhar

and

ध्यhcп

rhc

channd

its tension.

reduces

seceicn

The pattern-

cutter must make sure that there is not going to be too much material at this point.

The spring

part material-covered,

catch

blocks or metal omament τhe

renen

as all-metal,

can be finished

fastener

or finished by the attachment of covered

5৪ gmaned

in opening.

which assists

аспж

ro receioe

propeceion

а

wooden

The underside оr

пр йхed

other side of the frame, and when the lip is in the groove

of τhe

ന്ന

the clasp

is

of the fastening a metal loop projects

locked. From the back underside

passing through the back half of the frame; a flat steel spring is inserted into the loop and its other end is bent ata right che

rrame en

ro рrоर्धाde

demgrensrcd

angle and slipped

rhe τсns5оп

రా5g‫ء‬

into

sag

QC

a, catch to give a stronger

A large bag may have a double spring necessitated en ‫واسماعل‬ tightly action.

by

by the extra оп

ап

5nνеrrеd

the machine

Wooden

fasteners;

they

length

machme

that

frames

neither

by a claw

of the frame and held down

over

The rhe

rmrne‫و‬

pinches

it

have

are closed

of frame.

the

both sides

catch

lock

suffers

dag 5s dampcd and

spring

nor

knob

twist

which

spring

is screwed

5п so the

weakens spring

catch

on to onc side

by its own weight.

There

‫م‬ｪs‫א‬

肌 ది

日鲁 33

ర్

‫و‬

nogan

are two examples rramе‫د‬

in Fig.

dur сопein‫اعل‬

a better fastening

33,

орепйпg

юнпలు

of which A is screwed аnd

as it is screwed

dosmg

en rene

be avoided

wo eighdy

n ‫اعلש‬

в is

and operates

If this kind of clasp

marh τhс henhen

by forcing it open, which

of the

rhe screm

to the top of the frame

from a fulcrum so that its position remains fixed. gdps

to the back

rnay hmsen

нοध्यeνer‫و‬

is not generally

rh3s сап

satisfactory.

CLASPS Clasps are mostly they

should

used on flapover

bags, but there is no reason why

not also be used on framed

bags

when

the frame

has

no

ಗಿнn

‫دو‬囊రుм旺s

The two types

fastener.

purposes;

ор톨ಲ್ಲе

to make

dapenc

has mఇпy

flap is

closed

movement.

intact

(which

may

sprsng

тhе strong

and

bag would

and

pass 5s

τhe

allow

соrроrаппg clapette

τhe

orr en rhe msa ‫اعلةم اعل‬е

оuτer

first. ‘The

mosr

the

is pressed

at

the

hase

down to hold

of the top half

5mporram

contents

വി

раn

(without

спаpene

а

to push the bag open).

grsps

τопguе

ध्यh虽сh

are

used

аnd

musr

expansion

it the gusset

the spring and may serve a double

dadc

de

of the

Riveting

is the

purpose

byin-

ror

аങ്ങсhmg

rhc

to the bag.

The position

of the clapette

on the bag is important;

the hole in the

flap must not be set so far in that the flap edge breaks or binds the hinge, тhe

lower

5s mrcd

the hinge) to form a tension.

attached

best way of attaching

two

when

on the back of the lower half

a protrusion

contacts

round

securely

has

and

through an eyelet hole in the flap. When

the top half of the clapette

the flap on to the post, while the spring remains

ьur

eneiadons‫و‬

The spring

when closed

w τhе hag కапd 5৪ enry ణrdу соνеred১‫و‬

with a metal post that projects the

their

stay in position

so that they can be leather-covered

5s аrrасhed

ham ‫اعل‬h5сh

for

the clasp

dasp

are supplied

pieces

29

most popular are the clapezze and the run lock,

upon a spring

rely

which

мтпнс5

and it must

mrn ‫ال‬оdc

the other

not be set so near the edge that

has mo scpamc

to the front

рапs‫و‬

of the bag; the flap part

with holes (for which a similar

a rotating

апd сопrrവിed

ornamental

hy а spdng‫و‬

లుh5сh

το

consists

away.

τhe пар

аnd

of two plates

in the flap) at their centres,

hole is made

which fit each side of the punched plate on which

оmะ‫ ء‬аnасhеd

itself on

it breaks

flap hole. The other

part is a flat

bar or geometrical figure is placed

虽百 hrohcn

സц‫ال‬d

లుеmuവിy

cause τhe

bag to come undone. This rotating piece must be raised above the plate sufficiently the

(Fig.

the upper two plates

to accommodate

flap so that

it

can go through

the flap

and the thickness

aperture

of

and turn to lock

34).

IN,

y Ys %

.

%

Fig. 34

NZ

*

\S

< The position

simplest

and

most

is with pin rivets.

of attaching

secure

way

If they

are self-locking

the flap

plates

in

plates the thickness

FRAMES

30

AND

FITTINGS

uhhc пар hmrecn rhem mun de ксрк

ю

а

тhс р‫ال‬аτеs

mmsmum

not be put too near the bottom edge of the flap—r

musa

in. from the edge

of theflap to the edge of the plates is about right. dapettes

Ifall-metal

n ss

han ങ്ങ‫س‬drу‫د‬

more subdued Clapette

and turn locks are used with metal handle ends

line with them, the effect

set in a horizontal

against the bright

fittings

in plastic

handle

metal

much

сдарспе

‫ש‬hsсh

νവി

may 且о০к

ends.

or perspex

or with an engraved and coloured

either

can be obtained

plain

decoration.

FITTINGS

HANDLE

Of the wide variety frames are the most

of handle

difficult

rhe son rhar 3s rdencd

оr

fittings

has

а

underside

The most

mem rongue

dghr

part

(Fig. 35). As far as it is Commercially

with handle fittings senng enenghd

already 0пе

attached

does

should

ren need

form an opinion of whether a fitting

а

attached

handles

available,

to fit securely.

section, or is hed in place by a secondary

ങ്ങ

of too

rhen bener το use a соνercd

secure

rhrough

screwed possible

be studied

hnmentedge

or

τhе

up

to

fitting is

rramc

from the

the aim must

to see if they

merauurgy

ro

is safe or not, but here is a brief

explanation : Metal can be joined in a number cesses are spot-welding Welding

joins

two

so en chey пന്ന Spot-welding spors nenod

of ways

and the most

usual

pro-

and brazing.

metals

by means

of heat; this

melts

both

surfaces

5mo ణch mhen

is the union of the metals and occurs

only at the localized

రాకసదిలులుఇ

Brazing metals rhhd

merd

ఇαmg

аs

ап

rhss рurрen

sener

generally

types

temperature somer

and

two

different

than cither

(the оr

опе

gheing hard аnd rsgsd resuns끄

handles,

supplied

sizes.

of

5s conssdered

of tin and lead,

like silver solder, and can be easily

fittings—frames,

fittings—are

аdhआंνеరు‫اغ‬

зд

is the joining

melts at a lower

This is done with analloy

a rigid fixative

standard

which

mems ror

Soft soldering.

Other

пттпк35

which is used on frame corners,

by a metal

rhc desr

入нo

locking

as complete

which

is

not

bent.

devices, handbag

inside

sets

and

mirror

are

of

CHAPTER

н在‫א‬ㅁв且б

4

sв在м8

THE NEXT step is to learn something τhсm‫ء‬

about

тhе ‫اعل‬nd ല് en co be used ‫اعلاعل‬ and the

in the design;

kind

of seam

it will all have to be taken

making

seams

and into

the

and how

to make

ror hs cmgcdocncss

ье сhоsеn

processes

account

involved

when

in the

cutting

pattern.

SKIVING Skiving is a process for paring down the thickness all over or along an edge, but the all-over опе

орсю5оп

dy

spnmng

а

n

machsnc‫د‬

ss

overs, turned seams, or for frame covers.

of

leather, either

form is done

nowadays

used

panscuharly

Plastic

materials

оп

in

enrр‫اغ‬

cannot

be

skived as easily as leather. The two main kinds of seam are faced edge and the skiving 6msh

me

skived

need not be taken too seriously,

rurnoens

ങ്ങ

too thinly,

made

το

оп

there

however,

а

with this type of has deen

п rhe ‫اغ‬аchеr

sdmsndng

is a risk

For the first

turned.

because

of it

by

split

being

the

stitching. Skiving for turned seams a considerable аrc

renmy

must be done very

rhidg

ങ്ങcdапу

оп

or tear

when

they

cdges

Thin

are machined.

аrе

Unless

it has

the seams rhe rsuh

sr王п‫اغ‬enйпg‫د‬

rhey

mo rh5my s‫اعل‬νed

or the stitches

are turned,

skiving

may

the whole

will stretch and throw

leather

weakened

when they

mgs र्धाτhоur

п‫اغ‬τhе

വി dc 且оpру апd ummpress5νе‫ن‬ are likely to break

of the bag.

on the appearance

effect

because

carefully

pull through

mean

of the

that

the

particular

piece out of shape. or handles

Pipings

into

introduced

skived will not hide the weakness seams, where one side is stuck thickness

a seam

which

of too thin leather.

to a stiffening,

there

has

been

badly

Even on French must

be enough

to give the seam strength.

Though

skiving

msrenory

ro usc

is generally а

hand hama

done

or pleats that are going to be crossed to make @ fairly Sometimes

even thickness

it is necessary

machine

by

ror р且асణ

it

is

usually

more

‫ اعلاعل‬τhe mds വി panel en

by other seams

to go through

to finish machine

(Figs, 13 and

the stitching

14)

machine.

skiving by hand—at points

HANDBAG

che юр

оп

dag

లుhcrе

ല് а bag หhen rhere

ldnsng бп p‫ال‬асe‫و‬

5৪

mdng

seirehsng

स्पh且ch

33

百оr enamphs

rramе‫و‬

а

round

ceny de

വп

SEAMS

വി rhe

me τор

enm

ог

оп

а

паропн

ro hold

dody

me

done mhc sen 5৪ smoorh and

even.

MACHINING

The

pattern-cutter

machinist

can

to turn out

do a great

deal

to

good work. Machining

make

on a bag

with a faced edge finish where it shows all

the

so

bag,

it

is

important

that

machine

has to pass over lumps

Properly

skived, for instance,

needle

from

the

edge,

too that

for

seams

the machining can

the

value

the line of

be even: if the

will probably

bad skiving

and

easier

round

should

where crossing

the stitches

will jump. It is important

even distance

the stitches

it

has an ornamental

have

should

easily

been

not

shorten

or the be an

affect

this

margin. Machine stitching

is sometimes

used as a superficial

on a flat part of a bag, but it is generally

ornamentation

of value to emphasize

the line

of the design (Fig. 36).

seam, and not too small as small stitches will cut theleather. On aturned seam with piping

the ideal tension

ല് rhe seam τ‫اعل‬сhncss The pattern-cutter seam allowances

so ehar 5r den relies

makes the stitch lock in the centre поτ

show ‫ש‬heп τum०d‫د‬

on the machinist

to keep

he specifies, and this is especially

exactly

necessary

to the

on corners

‫وي‬

sпട入мs

nmnnenu

of couse, where the slightest

variation

spoil the tir uf the stitfenings

or linings.

Tt is often Nevessary tofit a straight the

line af machining

must

exactly. ‘The pattern-cutter nnnems

‫ ةماغ‬senw

has to allow

nnd mmrhmed

നന്ന

nogechen

‫والاعلالاعل‬

5r ห‫س‬ய

and

к enn р5ссев

мю

chdchness‫و‬

de round

τhm

rhan ะhe dunnm

‫ ةم‬വിന്നവി

w mn rredy rhrangh she mnch5an

ല് rhe സсhmе‫د‬百eed ‫ש‬hne τhe prener hdpcd

τhrοugh

helps

must

meet

വി hrmher nre udcem nnd

rhe wp

geip rhe undcrnenh

hcenuse

nmher

rooc hodds rhe юр remher ‫والالاعلنل‬ mce кhe doenm ene sr sen w

but if matt surfaces

cages

nrc pmced

psecc

‫اعلاغ‬

has cnded

тhটs ‫ש‬m nhanys hnppcn 虽布 rhe maceeid

icularly so when leathers with glazed surfaces

Piece

the

for this, and with turned seam

up ‫ال‬enr

оne‫ء‬

to a curved one:

line of material

be unbroken

5r 5s auhe n seeious mranem०

nr ‫اغأباعلهم‬

the whole design and

can upset

are put together

the top one through.

rhe mmhed

and and

еdsсs

mhe ‫ ةم‬chrough‫و‬ ய

n ds

enerch‫ء‬

are machined

поr‫ س‬deing

тhss

5s pen०

face to face,

they grip each other and the under

The machine

operator

may obtain a

flush finish by helping the top piece through, but this can make wrinkles on the upper side—more This

problem

with a simple

in place all round

can be corrected

important

put

to the edge. The

discrepancy at the top of the bag

fairly easily when the frame is put on.)

pitfall for the machinist, is

in the

to see that

the machining

the top close

must be sure that the pattern allows for this. (If the same

bag is to have a frame fitted, a slight

Another

lines is demonstrated

the top must be level; then when the lining is

in, it can be machined

responsibility,

has been pulled.

and curved

bag shape in Figs. 37 and 38. The tops of the body and

have been machined

pattern-cutter

so if the bottom

of joining straight

use

the line

which is again the pattern-cutter’s

of cotton-backed of stretch

lines will be upset.

plastics,

is in the right

where

it is

direction,

or

HANPHAG

,

SEAMS

35

pdpd hens pgpmgs

nrc цийс

വിന

5mdudod

nr o ‫ل‬сsర్gпн owsgm

papmss

s‫ن‬m‫ى‬

‫اعلاللاعل‬

mddng

аs

mmod ап

dcsdgn‫و‬

‫اغاعلاعل‬

ങ്ങms‫ء‬

5nreremng

‫ داعل اعل‬madc ㅂp cspcdauy

ല് n pnmcumr

rcgusremems

ror

m dedgru

scrcnmh огйю scnnm ns धामп вdd ю me

τhe sdc аnd

ю

வhers

अलक्षा renurc

аre

supphcd

ങ്ങцу‫ةم‬mu‫ل‬e‫د‬ most

The

joins. When taper best applies

taken

to

produce

make

a corner.

whcre

a clean

to the seam

line will be controlled

piped

scams

on a flapover

pipings

heavy

When attention

pipings

where

effect

are

used

allowances

All sorts

the

three

the

seam it is

frame

or where

the

Special care must

piped

seams

pattern-cutter

be

converge

must

to

pay special

of the machine

the position

foot of the machine

puts an even

pipings, which may

inside skived Icather

fit over the piping shape

or plastic, neces-

can

be achieved

but shaped

are ideal.

with pipings.

A heavy

piping

could be used ona side section framed bag, one piece on

each s5de

ല് rhe hag ध्यhen

arranged

as one piece, passing collar

or yoke

on frameless

unings

by another

foot. Half feet are quite successful,

of effects

in two pieces

used

Plastic

have skived

by the piping. Flat leather and thin plastic pipings

presser

feet that

of a rolled

joins.

should

on them, but some of the bulkier made-up

a special

presser

meet

because

have cane, wire, or string fillings sitate

making

top is made.

are easily sewn on because the presser pressure

is

scam is going to be crossed

machining

girth

with

end to end, but leather

the piping so that it falls short of the cross seam. The same

bag tops

at

to butt

a piped

to

final

probkm

serious

can be made

piping

വി парs

оr

bags аmng

rmrreingp

‫اغ‬aर्धाпg

the h5ngc

round the hinge

close to the frame.

by putting τhe

edges

piping

rreeg

The same

between

ല് оpen‫د‬rор

邑巴 co‫اعل‬d

parts, giving

ье

an effect

idea could

the exteriors

dp dags‫ء‬

нand‫ال‬es

be and can

be made from the very heavy kinds of piping and used on faced edge as well as turned

designs (Fig. 39).

are only

There

two kinds

which has two leathers धर्मτh

pspsng

5пsсned‫د‬

of turned handbag

seams; the plain sear

only, and the piped seam which is the plain seam 8m ьу

arrangsng

τhe peneien

can be changed into what is known as a French

ല് τhе р‫اعل‬n ങ്ങന

seam—and

n

even this can

be piped. A French

French

inserting

tight.

seam as used

on handbags

seam by a tailor or dressmaker. a stiffening,

By varying

turning,

the shape

and

as a

would not be recognized

Fig. 40 shows that itis made by

gluing

ofthe stiffening

the

machined

different

seam

down

seam effects

are

HANDBAG 36

SEAMS

SEAMS

HANDBAG

асh巨еνеd‫اغ‬ gussets,

prench

seams

panelled

all-round

gussets

mosr

аre

fronts,

വിന്ന

so that the seam appears

this and the side-gusseted

type

rme

to be glued.

Only

it should

rr rhere

is

酸 τhe marer‫اعل‬

rhe bcg‫ و‬maddng

is machined

glued,

The

to it the edges must

doudr

anу

used den

n heepdng

аdοur

пοτ

enra

sarery

and will keep

so that

ghm एसец‫و‬

remove

may

hs pоs虽eiοп‫و‬

m

апу

doum 虽蛋

ап

5nch

5n rhe maddne

de ణughr

сase‫س‬

as

breaks

童оr enр‫ءآم‬

оr rahdc аdοur

and srudc

oνα‫و‬

measure

its shape

the body turnover

р支осеs

ооmers‫و‬

coo

margm

धर्मder

to cut the stitching,

is lasting,

or telescoped

more ‫ وآمةماعل‬spaced ro аνο且d une оп τhе gusser ৪5dе‫ و‬srramed ens

а

in which contacts the stiffening

be possible

‫اعل‬

ర్s a లుогτhಉhце

between

the comparison

the glued turnover in position.

long asit is not crushed аएसау‫و‬

on

that ifthe stiffeningwerethinner

mw

but as the gusset

if properly

edge,

s虽dе

can be made

on the front, by sticking the

Fig. 41 shows

the material turned

meet exactly, so that the gusset, and leave

र्धाτh

hags‫و‬

They

bag.

uendd go runher

is glued, of course,

р互లుеd

оп

of

It should be clear from this diagram rhg machme

This

used

bottoms.

and separate

seam On to the gusset stiffening.

37

pl тhis

0톤5gr

n does

nor рuτ

up

muсh‫د‬

success

machining Accurate

of French

allowances calculation

seams

and

on gussets

margin

of these

widths

is very

depends entirely of

the

important,

body

on the

turnovers.

especially

when

the

seam is to be curved. The width of the body

turnover is governed

and there is no real limit to it, but there should for making minimum

it

over

an inch wide

of } in. or

stretch of the material.

by the gusset

position,

be a very good reason

(as it can be on framed

bags).

The

thickness,

and

f in. depends

upon the type,

Every

has the effect of using up some

stiffening

38

HANDBAG

ല് rhe

mrnener This

enough.

be machined

धर्मdτh‫و‬

ध्यhеn

еνеn

must

be wide

슘

支n‫اعل‬

edge of the stiffening

noc

de

the gusset

to

й

धर्मde‫و‬

ങ്ങу

to allow

enough

on; then when it is turned

foul the extreme fortably

and

minimum

SEAMS

in, the machine

line must not

but just seat itself com-

board,

inside its inner edge.

If, for example, machining

the stiffening

margin

is

be allowed

% in. must

enough;

snrrenang

‫اعلاسم‬

is 8 in. across

7 in., the

е‫ى‬gе cpsg‫اغ‬

} in. thick and the

and

of yf in. as

total

a turnover

is not

clear

of the

the machine line

to set

‫ساعلف‬ ‫اغ‬

тhese

nnneners аrе

Whole

of their

necessardy

ran

to have

it may help the design

length;

ന്നde τhrസghоur

umrormiy

the gusset

τhе inset

further at the base than at the top, or the other way round, This means that

a turnover

can be

} in. at the bottom

minimum at the top. If a pattern

七周鹏 produсеd‫و‬ ‫اعل‬ps umess τh虽s

shomd

nsワτurnоνеr

互s done mareeid

de кеpτ

аτ

а

m5n5mum

апd

‫ש‬m dc ‫ש‬аsτеd

the width of any unnecessary

of two

be inset

amount

of

at

the same

3 in. (this

expansion

measure

τhе comers

inset

about

I

in., excluding

reduced

is

me

by

che

round, incorpora-

(unless

bytwice

the machining

is

of ends tofinish off,

in. of turnover),

machining

has been made up and the body top machined ‫اعلاعل‬ch

аr

‫ש‬m he

point). As an example, let the machine line

means §

धारdτh

will be reduced

in four stages, which makes eight sets

performed instead

of the gussets

bag were

of a flapover

bulky, and also when the body top is being machined ting the lining, the expansion

off to the

centre, tapering

for the body

commеrс‫اعل‬

meτhοdరు‫د‬

τhе

and

the

allowances; round

gusser

gusset

when this

in one operation

ехpensбоn

has

heen

1} in., as it has been taken up and back to each corner of

the body stiffening

(Fig. 44).

ets

Ir

Fig.

44

1.

A handbag

made

from one piece

offolded

plastic

2‫ء‬

丁umed

handhag

sn sorr

hsdc സτh

рanе‫ال‬

and

hor5aonra3

р3еаτ呈ng

CHAPTER

0nв‫ةيب‬prвcв

s夏мp己도

COMPOSITION IT

rrom

AND

mentioned

WAS

опе

p且еce

If complete into squares

elementary

аррrοх互maτe 5s еаs5еr s互ะе

το

৪5৪е

വി τhe

丁his

required

creasing

or decreasing

zip—and

can be made

srер‫د‬

are laid flat, they can be fitted

shapes

body

exteriors

rmr

οur

on

sguare

оr

So it is a good idea to cut the

οrа

hdр‫و‬

τoо‫و‬

το

each

bag

rrom

recrang置е

сοпνеп5еm

for

handbag

handbag be

рареr

धर्मu

material

Every

that

size of the pattern.

sendc धर्मτh

sheers‫ء‬

1

τh‫اغ‬rs లుm

(Fig. 45), of which the size is dependent

or rectangles and

pಗಿттвк‫א‬s

FORMATION

in Chapter

оr marerdat

the final shape

§

5udge

and

τhe

sdc ehan

τhе

problems

5τ

ruu‫د‬ ല്

аmоцm

an opportunity

the size before the pattern

аs

rrom

сuτ

аррrох코mаτс

provide

for

in-

is cut.

has some kind of top finishing—a

as these are separate

srsr

рaреr

το

it is not

pattern to fit all three. We will begin with a body

or a

flap, a frame, possible pattern

to cut

one

with a plain

top that can be used for a flapover bag. Generally

speaking

bags have five planes;

two ends. These, whether

front, back, bottom

from one

separated

and

another or all in one

piece, must be made up as one unit. Our one-piece which

has

hdng

divided

ror

rcsermd

for the gussets.

will be inserted

example

been

τhe

into three

rrorm

dadg

The diagrams

show

parts аnd

into

a square

or rectangle

(Fig.

45), the

centre

honom‫و‬

gusset

up. In Fig. 45, A and B are quite straightforward

across

тhe

the base

may be cut

deprh оr rhe

of

3

in various

mg

оп

in. The shaded

portion

ways to produce

placed done

paper

is

folded

down

to your left (if right

оп

opening

centre

handed) so that

dmh hams en τhе same eime

Having determined

ror

be cut

but C requires

some

the

gusset

effects. of this pattern. The

and

marking

accurаcу

the

folded

and cutting аnd

edge

can be

syrrrnmnryп

the length, depth, and base width, half the gusset

width is calculated

from B to F (it may include the machining

allowance of } in. to # in., or this allowance

o

may

end when made

representing

different

the exact

panel

ench s5de

ddc 5s 8 虽n‫ اغ‬umh τhe ‫ש‬呈dτh

ణсh

We will now go step by step through the making pattern

rhose

how these side panels

to any shape, so long as they make a complete

ехрlаnаdоп‫د‬

аnd

may be added afterwards

4°

SIMPLE

ONE-PIECE

PATTERNS

snnpts

as

point

from

E). The

оr

greater

gusset

opening

ю

бττ‫اغ‬mg

ns

соnτm且

धा虽drh‫و‬

than half the bag length

finished

bag a top opening

be first decided in proportion rop еdgе

du

రాнттвnd‫اك‬

allowance

at the top can be a

own judgment, as this is an example

matter of one’s rrame

он2‫ةيب‬p且5cв

what

size the complete

ро5m

now be positioned line BD, a neat

в

and

if these

square

doume τh5dmеss

w mahc

corner

hаνe

(A to centre

width greater

to the bag length,

rrom

dur w

and

line X) would

gusset

opening

ро反ms

give the

width will be, along

о апd

н

the machining

the

musr

less than j in. from the bag

cannot

be guaranteed

because

allowance

margin

on one side

shown by a dotted line; if this is to be ¥ in. and G, H positions jy in. from the line BD, there will be no clearance

space

the

srmem

ല് henher made dy τhс seam may roud mc dag

ing. On the diagram

is no

gussan

So it must

half this figure

pg тhе

are placed shape

оr τhе

than its length.

mark

m5nr

where there msg

is

are also

after machining

ror rhe seirrenmg Sometimes it is possible uen posms

ran

sufficiently

to allow

оп

to obtain

rhe ьоdу

рrоrгude

deyond τhe ma5or

machining

halves

marked

maker

оrrhе

(Fig. 46). Therefore,

of the gusset.

To produce

нnе το mart τhе роs邑τ孟оn

determines

the length

result

mareeias

5r5r 5s

ю

หവി

length

not needed except gusscr

when these

that

srrerch

required

it should

bc remmed

should

аrrеr

have a flat

top

an equal length of lines GK and GL, half the bottom

വി нne

of GL.

me

this base apex

a line is drawn from G to H and

rms

且百

to gain the extra

J is really рап

a reasonable

dur оn‫ال‬у

.

the bag

when putting in the stiffening The apex point

nпе‫و‬

and

互肌 HM.

‫ء‬msr

width is taken from

bdow

Now, by

арех

ро5m

folding

포g

along

rh5s YZ

ONE-PIECE

SIMPLE

aed

аnd peinr‫ةيب‬nว‫ء‬าr‫اعل‬ng

l‫ ور‬τhrough

body, GK is found.

ro rhe hdr gusser аrеа аnасhed

оп

is the exact

This

PATTERNS

required

now be joined up with F and by folding all four halves тhe angTe

of the gussets

民8上

length

ro rhg

of GL. K may the markings

and transferring

can be completed.

оr apprommardy

9రా

madc

τhus

smpormnn

5s

аs

п

not only influences

the rise and fall of the bases of the side gussets when

the

and

bag is opened

shape

धामhеп

economy

τhe

closed,

dody

sddes

it also has

but

νеreiса置‫و‬

поr

аre

an effect

on the pattern

and

3п

τh5s

τurn

വിസ

of material.

If this bag had separate like the outline

of the same shape, it would look

side gussets

in Fig. 47; if the gussets

were

into three

divided

parts

(1, 2, 3 in Fig. 47) the pattern would

look like Fig. 48. The angle KGL

in Fig. 45, which is 90°, is different

from the angle

pseces

ല് τhе dmded

The piece

90° example,

(with apex

when

marked

shape has deen οhrа5nಲd

made J) lie

5п rhe

up

and

‫ש‬ау

will make

closed,

base is to be raised

at G and rdsmg same

H must

pomr

length

к‫و‬ as

higher

position,

so

dcscddeds

支百 роmτs

0 апd н haen

οr

dy

GL)

已肌

‫ال‬о‫ש‬еdпg the

gusset

when

If

will

material when

more

sure rhar бк

కmаదిdng

base

for modification.

the bag is closed, the angles

So, by removing

be increased.

the gusset long as its

lowest

in its

been set too close to the line BD, there is no scope the gusset

made by the three

gussan

be

higher

when

5s

srm

the

che

bag is

closed. Modifications

to this

this is important

base

if it is a framed

τhеrе 重s an аuоങ്ങпсе possible

gusset

оr

올

iп‫د‬

ог

the

affect

bag—but

垂 虽几 rrom

top

they бн

of the are

gusset,

ro rhe

and

possible if

only hody

нпe‫ء‬

rr

5৪

to make the pattern and the bag without this, but there will be

strain on the gusset mn de passed of shape.

оп

This

seams

το rhe

may

when the

rronr

sound

апd

bag is fully

ьаdc‫و‬

draenng

an exaggeration,

but

opened

and

the strain

rhem 5സ‫رمء‬аrds the

next

and

оцк

two figures

will make it clear.

~ Example

A, Fig. 49. This

example

has been

machined

together

and

SIMPLE

ruhy

орened

great

the

copg

rhe

allowed

оплнпе

and

the

B, Fig. 50. This shows

top keeping

sei臣еnеd‫و‬

аnd

when it

is

en τhe

opened

lines.

frame to hold

This

43

unarrecred

decause

removed

me

τоp‫و‬

it would would

an unmachined

outline.

5п снп孟пg

act the distortion

that

If it is decided еюmp‫واغ‬

τhеrе

τhе gusser

were

епоugh of too

not

nm

from

inwards

same

to make

gusser

the top

width to produce practical

a

to make

emreme

еdges

most

base

the bag slope inwards

gusseτs‫و‬

ror

point

τhe

rణsоп

would

to counter-

on our original

rhe

wp

than

the

and the bottom апd

рuτ

m

рomτs

Another

роs‫اعل‬оп‫و‬

h

‫ש‬m So

this

to cut as well as

धारm

de

with

есопom呈с‫دل‬

the

ю

cuτ‫و‬

for design.

type

of bag

is

when

the sides

must slope upwards

and outwards

τh且s 互s ro drmg rhe rop crrrhe If it were

gusser

allowed

on theflat), the gusset’s

of

fall well below

when m нпе

to remain top centre

the top of the bag and allow

common

mistake

τhе sаmр‫ال‬е‫و‬

that

5৪ che ang2e

will

not

made

be

discovered

аτ τhe of

gusser

small

until

сοmеr

the gussets

the gusset

to its full width throughout

mnr

оп

а

upwards

probably

mamed

when

dag оr τh5s

opened,

its whole rype

pulling

rhe

to open

depth. This will be a

as rhe

the

after

оп

and if they

have been cut with an angle less than 90° it will be impossible

The

or

shortened.

in alignment

J is

centre seam. These comers are the top centres

gusset

ಗಿ8

bottom,

ro ranour‫د‬

machmmg

sedans

‫ש‬m

рапеrnюuner

sides

85τheг‫و‬

рaαеm

sacrificed

with the front top (when

when closed оdర్ecτs

by

were a

this type of pattern must be the same

with the top of the bag when it is closed. straight

if there

at the top, and a simple rule to remember is that halves

тhе

h‫ء‬

length

rhe

with

rhds

sо‫ء‬

hur

shown

it is opened.

outline that is economical

the tops of the gusset ‫اك‬

noticeable

the top shorter

If the apex

pitfall

srram‫و‬

to the shape

made

are cahen

of

is sometimes

usual

tumed,

धर्मτhоuτ

both the base and the top of the pattern.

pattern

up.

ല് τhе

though economy The

and

р3есев

opened

machined,

it.

ല് deing

धाауs

that they change

itis plain that

5৪

gusset fully

to the rest of the pattern

the top can be kept to the original rhe τhrеe

hag is dosed

be even more

results

when

to alter the slope of the body

аre

can be brought

be seen

But

be distorted

find that he has to make alterations

п

5s

pieces

the bag rigid all round when

mssmpce

rhis

the correct

dosed

fully

the dotted

п

me

been

PATTERNS

an angle.

Example at

аτ

has

material

ONE-PIECE

bag

rrame out

หവി

рип

of shape,

τhe and

causing trouble infitting the frame.

next

step

is

to make

this

kind

of simple

one-piece

pattern

‫الاعلف‬

s鲁мp苋‫ف‬в

accamimodate

οнs‫ةيب‬రాпకిcε

a frame, and we must

రా在ттన్m奸s

make

or an up-

of a side

a chojce

tight section frame (Chapter 3).

రాn嘉мs

птп‫א‬б

If an upright rhe guenrs

section

frame

is chosen,

musr haoe ‫اغ‬gusser

τор‫وو‬

gusset

that stands above the back and

area).

It is necessary

at

the corners

and back. The object is to ensure comrr

аnd teg оr τhе 百ramе

this allowance

it would

be

is wide, but

it can be deeper the top

top

point

given

angle.

ല്

to

has

deen

frame

any

to the

the

join

roldeds

front

for the

available

വിτhоur

upright

section

as the frame section

size

of the corner

fold

of the bag take in the frame.

of the bag, a line is taken

A at any

апоюапсе

ог

gussets

be at least as deep

snenad വി rhe wp еdge ог τhе gusser the

the

rhe gusser

according

Corners

that

rermembered

of the bag (Fig. 51, shaded

where

impossible

The topping must

or the positions

front

be

धर्मdτh

that there is material

വിവ

successfully.

it must

margmd

а

comdng

арргохimаτe且у

‫ال‬еνe且

up from the top of the body the

Naturally,

angle

taken

has

आईτh

line

at

an effect

upon the pattern shape. Take a perpendicular point A, to a height

line upwards

from the top corner

equal to one frame

section’s

depth,

B; then from this line AB take another line at right malce rhe τορ

еdgе оr τhе gusser

or the frame leg depth, must

nush md

sn

анgпmеm

6τ

mro

be measured

using the frame legitself, placing

rrame

ю

mch

the top

肌罢ョ

rhe

of

angles

rrame

the body,

making point

且eg‫اغ‬

which will hs 且engrh‫و‬

along this line from AB, by outside

surface

edge

mart он τhе ‫ال‬еg deprh‫و‬

of the

апd add

smpus

a stitching inner then

It is advisable,

(Chapter

3), to mark

the extreme

a

stitching

allowance,

but,

add

ല് τhе hmgc

τh‫د‬s

5s

m preennr

the centre iraming

ణп

frame.

de usеd‫و‬

gussеτ

If this

may be difficult;

р且us

srrasn

is not

45

with an

when the frame is fitted

frame

сеппе rtor

allowance.

юттsസs

oнв‫ف‬pлвсв

if there

а

is

seirchsng

round

done

of the hinge and

bottom no

rhc hsnge р5п

the gusset

the

frame,

inner

тhе

aпo‫ש‬апсе‫ء‬

suppcrrs

τhaτ

may betoo

reason

tight, and

the bag may even pull out of the frame when

it is closed. _

This

can be tested

with a strip of paper. Cut the strip

frame, insert the ends into opposite close

the frame.

consrms better

а

run rrame

marking

will break 且сg

虽s

or pull out

decper

than half the frame

measurement

After joined

τhаτ

The strip

off the

to the gusset

leg

to fit the open

corners, and, holding

depth,

‫ש‬hеп

dosed

opening

point

This

рrоप도dజ

аnd

а

width.

C is made,

base at D. The diagram

it in position,

of one corner.

shows

which

is

then

how the gusset

top

stands up above the body top, and a pattern, cut so that its centre (after machdnsngd this

5s 且оಉеr

to eliminate

rhan τhе dody

some

Fig. §3. This has contrasting

Fig.

To make the gusset

gcocn rrom

folded tops on

each

52‫و‬

the bag

5s made

mce

as shown in

side.

point

Fig.

5n 8০‫ و‬5nhe gusser

and

the frame leg line is still

5s madе‫و‬

it will open the full width the top line of the gusset

mem 5s соnτrопеd

53

drop in the centre like this the line taken up from

B is lowered,

lowered

draws

5n 围属

ав

inside

52

dicular,

possible

uпе‫و‬

fold

Be

LN

A to make

юр

of the gusset

by τhе shape

srareing

धर्मrh τhе нпе 且8

of the frame;

made

but if the line AB is

will form a V and the opening

വ

deprh ല് rh5s ν‫د‬

h 支s‫ و‬оr

move-

сοuдsе‫و‬

to open the frame toits full width, but only by straining,

the gusset

at

pеrреn‫د‬

upwards from the base and breaks

srm

which

the front and back

lines of the bag crosswise. наnddags

аге

поτ аhνaуs

time, so this method the interior gusset

ореned

of reducing

ro rhe

ruu धर्मdτh

or controlling

fold is common practice.

оrrhе重r

rrames

the opening

eenery

to reduce

46

SIMPLE

тherе

5s аnоτhеr

unframed

gussets

of danger

is

dencuny

that

at

ONE-PIECE

C,

the

5s

u‫س‬hsch

have

their

top

PATTERNS

о百rеn

seams

centre

round

down

of

rramed

धर्मrh

and

the

centre;

the

point

the "gusset

where

the

seam

begins. In the pattern rhan

go‫د‬

оп

described,

τhе

gusser

being perpendicular), opening) dscuhn

make

always

లుhiсh

avoid

has

rhe

and on the gusset

the line

苋n dorh саsеs

down

апу

making

the

horssonrar

cmade

with the sloped

top and bottom,

all have

the arrangement

horizontal

a bearing

top gusset

after machining

оr rh5s

angre

dm 卫oоhs

rrou‫اعل‬e

ddngs

go°

it will have

the

оп

effect

never used, and when the bag is gusset dener

below

the frame

dmn nor haर्धाпg

hinge

тhe

ехр‫ال‬апаeiоп

pme unrn

opened

de

be

affect

ro рrоduсе has

angle

ss

τhап

which

is

width the

but

this

is

far

gussеr‫اغ‬

five exampleshave body

the same

up く围鲁

mahing

rramed

τh도s

effect

mоrе

gusset

slack;

very

ror

anorher

made on the

produce a result

the

the pattern,

made

deen

τhе to

5n rhe

successrm sn

ല് hcen

and the angles опе

toits full controlled

frame, each having

rererence

some

rор‫و‬

material

marersar

enough

been cut from the same оп‫ال‬y rhree ല് rhem

gusser

ву

which joins

a shortening

and

difficult

will still

To show how these alternatives

um

it will have

framing

of adding

ro

the angle

Should

than 90°,

τhе sroped

slope,

ап de rerared

result.

will make

m

u‫س‬rопg‫ء‬

of the gusset

musr

on the

be less

that

入8

from C to D at the base a true perpen-

reduceion

νs ar τhe dase оr rhe gusser

they

dy

top (controlled

experiment it will be found that the slope of the body edge

οτ

at C less

angle

τορ

slope,

5псоятдㅁ

5৪

раnеm

ror

са‫ال‬сu且аr5оп

ro rhe

but

54‫ءو‬

rhe

fitting of the frame on to the body.

When frame

beginning

(not

inside

have: a frame

the

pattern,

the section)

length

the frame to the other measures is any

frame

and

beginning

leave the

pattern

leg measurement

§5);

frame cannot stretched

it

at

a frame

and see that

rrameps

is a good

be reduced

a little

will not

neatly

to mark

its

to

reach

the

section

of

across

the

inside

is

It

depth shorter

is

top

down than

of the

best

when

from the

the

inside

be any longer as this line and meer

umen

err on the

if there is a mistake

if it is short.

leg lengthwise

corners.

length

rop secdon rule

of one

might

a leg width

measurement,

edge

ofthe frame. It cannot

rhe dase еdgе оr rhe up (Fig.

frame

be

of the

legs

An example

measured.

outside

inside

of the

length

18 cm.

if it

good

the

top line of the body

must

of 20 cm.

from the inside

I cm., and therefore

Nopattern

the

rhe panern 5s made

short

side

as the

but the material

metal

may

be

SIMPLE

ONE-PIECE

끝‫دلدددندددحي‬

| e------

8०

PATTERNS

‫دلةيب‬

47

‫هيءاهدئدئهنةبدندل‬

|

1B Mm —-----|

Se AB

The dotted

line AB is half a centimetre

measuremenr‫و‬

so τhе

sroped

s도dеs

ല്

me

shorter dag

than the inside

shouTd

5usr

rouch

leg τhе

frame corners as they leave it after framing. There will, of course, have ध्यhеn τhe

ro de modmcadons If the

top

gusset toppings should రాఇ‫و‬

and

be equal 55১

rhe

length

front

сorners

if the correct

to the length

rom

dag

оr

of the bag

lengch

me rrame is

added

allowances

5s

‫ב‬o

crm口

roundеd‫اغ‬ of two

have been made, the total

of the frame.

In the

denuse

depths are 1.5 cm. each and the front top is

аre

to the depth

17

last

illustration

rhe gusser

юррmg

cm. The front top must

48

SIMPLE

rme

ONE-PIECE

me

allow

calculating

and cutting this type of patrern, it is best

the

line

AB to reach

is taken from one must

rrom

มdnന്ന코οn

rhe ‫اعلانل‬ @o-

5৪ ന്ന5 сm‫ز‬

sr

de ‫ال‬c‫د‬nh‫د‬n frame and

what

‫اس اعلربد‬hsch

PATTERNS

be given

rrame a

its

оr

หവി

go up ర్пrㅇ rhe

поτ

position.

correct

to the other—there

hngrh‫د‬

неге

а‫اغ‬

----10--------

So when

to remember thar

‫س‬о

must

be no

ехamр且ణะ

5

(oN Be-----7+----5

(A)

The

total length

section, ‫اعل‬p

of (B)

8 5п‫ واغ‬me gusm roppsngs

10

length is again

The frame

tops must

‫ اعلةي‬w rhc

two

is

10

in. (inclusive

rene

examples

lines are different

musr dc r ‫ اغةم‬ణc‫ב‬hp

10 in., but the front

be 1} in. each to make

她赌由

cng

SHOULDER

mddng a ന്നല്

perfectly

and neither will slope directly

chererore

de аю虽d०d

రాఇఇ

top is 7 in., so

the top body line

56l

will both fit the frame

away

of the frame. The second will be ugly and may expose md shend

of the leg

to make the front

in. to fit the frame.

the gusset

The

of the frame

which is } in.). If it has been decided

but

their

body

from the corners the frame hinges,

5刀

INTRODUCTION

The introduction

of a shoulder

into

a one-piece

design

makes

the

sr nen ьв

iM

Ly

‘

PN '

*

'

‘ ‘

PA 5 aeewnnt

“ Pd

‫ن‬

mrrnens

онв‫ ةيب‬пвсв

of ' /

| .

‘ ‘

!

1

1 ' 1

cd se

"-o

“sy “a.

-

Fig. 58

5०

०‫א‬屬‫دل‬p己5cక

33囧屬几5

that have been described

dangers

serting the pattern into a rectangle dormm ‫ال‬еngrh

‫ةم‬

ന

of the bag pattern

de керь

రాdтт置к‫س‬s

more or

мою

and the

apparent

Square

marer‫اعل‬

will be much longer;

first step of

is more difficult mn de

and

as

if the same

necded

remaining the same there will have to be more space

rhe mp

аs

the bottom

length is

between

two bags

धारीक्षा сuпing‫ف‬ We

cannot

donom

save material

‫ال‬еngτd‫و‬

‫اعلاعل‬сh

లుm

size of the space berween In preparing

a pattern

but we can avoid produce

pusen

в

入 аnd

hnger

two bags when

by increasing а‫ال‬sо

dесrణsc

the τhе

(Fig. 58).

cutting

portion

must

be pro-

area). Then, if the side line XX is folded

are marhed

rhrough

оп

ED added, the rule for arriving

topping

waste

dag апd

of this kind the body

duced first (Fig. 58, shaded md

а

апd mc gusser

τσ rhe gussсτ‫و‬

at the gusset

top length and

base V arrangement is the same. It is usual to make a faced

or turned-over

shoulders; if it is to be faced, turnovers and dodу

рans

tumed-over

о百rhе shonddcrs

く日昏

on the gusset

bur 且百 rherc

5s

ю

de

а

need only be made on the body

so that it will turn on to the gusset

shoulder

be allowed

58‫ و‬mp ‫ال‬eま‫ف‬τ‫دعב‬

edge, a turnover allowance

as a finish to these

edge

must

when in position

(Tig. 58,

left base shoulder). The shoulders

can be machined

and this is essential anh a τumеd‫ةيب‬ονar The shoulder convex

cmcen

with a faced

together

in this example is used

is of a safe

shape

and it is deep

ro matc a raced еdge decause

and

depth, but if a

and narrow, it will be

me mmouer

at the base, which makes turning difficult;

(Fig. 59).

it is not necessary

०dgе‫ء‬

type of shoulder

no difficulties

after the gusset is in position

edge finish though

rapers оп

a turned-over

in this case. The same applies

to a straight

ю

norhsng

edge presents line shoulder

6

CHAPTER

srmpls TO

TACKLE

exteriors

a

pacsn

more

advanced

stage

more

musτ

sadd

de

หവി

in

апо‫ש‬

τhem

This

paper.

of one-piece

A framed

will

give

and

example

bag

from

it

be

must

Care

patterns.

advanced

and

as

senrh

patterns. to any

nаpоνеrs‫و‬

to provide

satisfactory

posssbhs

smrdng

can be cut

eirher

one-piece

the

together,

shape to the article

up

remembered

25рpеd‫و‬

a replica results

The

design оr

of the bag

by

ensuring

w а msnhnum

еrrоrs

bag

that

edge

and

has its various stiffenings

the stitches тhus

passing

τhсsе

but act as a guide

must

in

mentioned

faced

Chapter

the

5,

one-piece

rechndgua

വി mmed లుоrh‫ء‬

rhg оppоsпc

more

(which

together

quick

The faced edge pattern and machined

made

redudng

arc оppоsmg

сοnsτrucdоn

bags

ву

of design and technical detail

will be taken first, using the front only (complete

shoulders)

although

attempting

dc

το

consrrucdom

principles

edge

can be stuck

ല് бпmg

аccцrаವು

with

of faced

models),

framed

before

described

making-patterns τhаr

of the design

аdοur

simple faced edge bags, further be

p在ттввns

and their break-down at a later stage into a number of separate

раnerпs‫د‬

may

52305

be taken,

cut, then covered

through

roundenons

the stiffenings— поτ оп3у

g5νе τhе

to the size of the final making-

however,

when

dealing

with

frames

to

ensure a correct fitting. The first musr

task is to determine

de sumdem

the bag size. The length,

‫ اعل‬cener τhe hmgesg

can for the time being be regarded the bottom

аnd

опе

from the bottom, which Having section

chosen

frame

the

(and

р虽eсe‫و‬

side gussets,

οr rhe dadc аnd

which,

front

shape

repeated,

will also

must next be determined.

rhe 重rаmе

rhe сun虽ng

much

οреn邑ng‫د‬

in one piece wider

would

വി а gusser

be uneconomical,

than the centre

(base

divide this area into three separate ьuτ ro рrоर्धाdе

more scope

width).

the back,

may de separared

gusset.

which

width of the bottom

back

is to fit an upright

provide

the back),

Since it is narrower

ro surround because

τhе

rronr

the

than and

the end widths are

It is therefore

advisable

parts, not only for economical

ror dజ5gn‫ةم‬

so rаr‫و‬

the frame leg;

leaving

rronr

will require an all-round

sample

of

gives sensible proportions.

be fitted with separate

donom as

as we know,

поτ d5scussed

as twice the depth

can be of any width which

The bag may йопь

rhe deprh‫د‬

to

cutting

§2

SIMPLE

आनमा

mgs

rnccd edgc

PATTERNS

EDGE

FACED

m сνсrу

5s 5mpnrranr‫و‬

лhе nnсh‫اعل‬пg

dcs5gn

should allow the final machining

to be done

quickly

with as few

as

be

worthy

of one

or

possible.

Should

the

design

stops, then some sacrifice

in the machining

‘The front making-pattern reinrercemenr‫و‬

be conadered

by the thickness when

টs соνсrсd‫و‬

producing

the

ns

any

‫ال‬епgпh

patterns,

shoulder

Prevents

n rrom

nnd preenn

turnover

that

reduces

sue

and

allowed

for when

need not placc—at

in one

fur any turnover that will rhc

ssmsdams

rmmc‫ء‬

scction

frame

the frame fromseating itself on top of the front

be considered

5s mcrcascd

turnover

except

епτсrmg

this

rhc

‘I’his

of a turnover.

the frame section, which must be cut to allow 5ncrenae

be made,

is cut to represent the size of the stiflening

hur ‫ש‬hеn rhds 百оundവിоn

in all directions

must

continuity

breaks

machining

two

depth

the section

depth

and

or back, must is

being

cal-

culated (Fig. 60).

iy

Lf

ee

on

Muth

|

|

a

ane

nenвт

‫اعلاغق‬

cussвт

=

60

దుввదిнбнмвпт

Having cut the front correctly, mcnr ಳവി deg rhe

Fig.

aT

next decide

man macmnmg

what

menuoned

the gusset

arrange-

nor

яmaсrе‫دل‬

аdоधе

5৪

as a flapover.

whether the bag is to be framed, orfinished

The following

principle applies to the base. ‘Two insct the

bottom

points must

be located which indicate

will be after

gussct

its attachment

where

the ends of

to the front

and back

(Hig. 60). It is important that they are a minimum of in. in from the § сοmar опа ఇuareюornerеd on the design.

Supposing

hag‫ و‬धाവിc chcsr maodmum

inset margin greater than the radius of the corner avoid

in gusset

complications

dssmncc

is rounded, it is better

a corner

construction,

depcnds

to have

the

(Fig. 60, left side) to

for

at

these

points

the

bottom and side gussets mect. Before enrmns‫י‬

enlarging

n ന്നuదిd

on the various

de as ന്നн

with a broken-boltom

‫اعل‬

gusset.

shapes

dణ‫ال‬

umh

of fronts а

and gusset

сurnр且erе

rramcd

modifi-

eacammc

наνsпg

rhe 5nscr

dcddcd

required width,

inset points stated.

A folded

and

depth

the frame-leg

outside

rronr rrom

point

c

and

C along this line that

Remember that gusset

A line is now

of the front

one-piece

(on fold)

to

half the bottom-

hmgrhㅁ

апу

rrom

h 5৪

depth is marked

to make

for upright

sections

is always

above

and back.

taken from E to the folded edge, either at right angles

to the fold FF or lowered

the

the

is taken

for the frame leg.

topping

topping

gusset

йпе 5६ rhcn mhen സവന

а

ro

upध्यаrds

the frame section

point E,to obtain the gusset

the top corners

rhe ппе вs

оп

between

of hinge

linc A (Fig. 61). ‘Then

condnued

ss cur ю rhe

gusscc

henom

to the space-line

off—centre

is marked

and ‫اغ‬us 5пsеr pomr o ss praced τhе

equal

$3

piece of paper for the side

making

top of frame,

rhe

posnsonsg

being

its length

PATTERNS

EDGE

PACED

SIMPLE

pattern,

to G, the alternatives

either

the controlled

being, as explained

opening

of the gusset

in

with

ヲర్йrйnఅ‫دءد‬пaоr rodd reducdom run gusser hy аdорeing me hodmnm τοр‫ء‬ D This is followed by a line taken from to the fold for the completion οr

of the

base.

required), folding

The

opened

rddmg

position

made

up and placed

is

then

cut

oneither

round

(adopting

the top

the front or back pattern for

(Fig. 62).

The dotted айн

outline

а

lines on Fig. 62 indicate 刀enব্লะ

which

cs

must

5s το rodd

be at

оп

right angles

shape of the frame, and HDisfolded the front, this

also

being

three units, completely

the

where EG and HD must

ro τhе оuτs5dе

to the front top as it forms the

at right angles

end position

folded, should

finish

еdge ല് τhе rramehg

of the

to the base line of

bottom

appear as in lig. 63.

gusset.

The

SIMPLE

s4

rrmr

тhе pattern

rnay

panem

can take

shape

FACED

he сur

any

line

inset

(point

X) ro the bottom

points

does not interfere

EDGE

ห‫د‬且τh

PATTERNS

οr

from

shou3ders

വിrhоur

the

base

point, D, as the shape

with the framing

ьarτs‫ العء د‬ехτremdу long shomder length to the bag but not capacity.

ห‫י‬оu且d

τhе

section

these two

between

or the joining

of the gusset as й adds

scren no рurpоse

It would

аnd

frame

of the

extra material

also require

for the gusset, as this must increase in size by the same ratio.

The

bag

carefully:

large shoulders

marerm сап

аs

to produce

me rronr

material

gusser

which

respecr

sr n 5s

mm our ro de आईdеr

nearly

needed

honom rar 5п‫و‬

ser τοο

τhаn

a small

for

τhс

purrhermоrе‫و‬

deadc口

οr

5п τh且s

be wrong

a side gusset

should

a shoulder,

carrying

when

obviously

It would

raise рrо‫اعل‬еms

mse о百τhе

especially

outline,

studied.

τhe roр‫و‬

be

bag with as much

mser margm

rdr shou里d

τhе

rhen urmecssary

is being used.

Five sample fronts

show

how shoulders,

can lengthen the bag but not increase

as panels for design purposes;

(Fig. 64).

are made up with pieces

if the fronts

It may save material

bag line, and bottom insets

capacity

but care

must

arranged

be taken that no seam made

gussets in this way falls on the bottom inset point; the side and bottom also

meet

machinist

GUSSET Having side

this

at

point

if any

and

will find it difficult

seam

of the

front

is

added,

the

to pass this point.

MODIFICATION mastered

gussets

g5ణ dg5d donoms‫و‬

broken-bottom

the

to it, two опе

further

gusset

modifications

deing пush

धर्मch

τhе

and the

can

rronr

fitting

of the

be made

which

апd

hase еdgఆ

dadc

will

and the other being raised (Fig. 65, A and B). Both differ from the threepart formation he rememdercd

described, rhar లుhеn

so the same patterns maddng

rhe धर्मdrh

cannot

be used. It will

ല് rhe dase gusser

ന്ന m

3.

Box

bag with prefabricated umh

foundation,

а mrпеd‫ف‬ονеr

covered

edge

нпйпg

in plastic

and

fitted

srмకి‫ال‬ది‫ء‬в

రా入c토n

spcs

రాది了入rm己‫الא‬

55

Pi)

the side gusset ю me

une

в

an additional

cng

60‫ و‬so

it made a difference and bottom

gussets.

3 in. was allowed

mar

स्पhen

of 4 in. between

me

from the folded edge

hd百‫ةيب‬рanem

the connecting

अलs

oened up

edges of the side

This was to ensure that when the bottom

gusset

56

SIMPLE

uen

denr

or denad

FACED

EDGE

me ssde gussu

PATTERNS

соцю

hend

strain on its base line. Should any shortening fail to reach the base

of

‫الرماعلانل‬

h र्धाrhоur

aпy

occur and the side gusset

the front at the inset margin, it is quite probable

that the normal machining

margin

secure it, but this difficulty

can be overcome

round the bag may fail to catch and by increasing

the stitching

margin.

入

denpnm

വി me

nen modshcanons

meneioned

are

shenm

бп

Fig. 66, A and B.Fig. 66, A is flush with the base of the front and back and since the bottom

bending

gusset, being rigid, will not have the side gusset

round it where they join, the } in. allowance

5৪ ०धारीτed‫ء‬

тhe

used to connect turnovers

mmowr

aτ

to the bottom gusset

connect

on the side gusset

τhe dene оr τhe s5de gusser

to the front and

п‫د‬론g‫ء‬

66‫و‬

ю

5s

ends (Fig. 65); the bottom gusset

back bases.

ర‫رب‬ಹ th

j

8

Fig. 66

—

oe

ee”

Fig 66, B has a raised bottom gusset, which has an additional margin

each side.

This

allowance

should

not

be

more

than

#

depth in. to

SIMPLE

amm

che posssdmry

धारh5сh‫و‬

虽百 rh5s

overloaded. the

depth

margin)

Point

bottom

cur‫و‬

of the

depth from

апd ㅁ

bag,

pp

folded

study

see

呈宪 опе

round

as

side gussets

a

that it can also

gusset

Then

the

compare

ror

de used

mree

τh‫ى‬е

style, and for the

or rhe same сumпg०panеm‫ء‬

юrпസеrs

edges

on the gusset

are made

must be fully

from the base

point, but

it is

of the

where

the

join that the change is necessary. hagns

machining

gusserg

rhe

each side to the inset

ьmhcп‫ةيب‬hσnоm

ห‫س‬hеп bottom

for the style of Fig. 65, B, but the same

the turnovers

round, while Fig. 66, A has loose

сяп

рапепю

of turned-over

in all three

section

dorrom

gusset is first

supernuous

dc

can be used for the broken-bottom

The arrangement understood;

тhе

of the

of the original

so if the bottom

and cut a trial pattern. ser оr

sry‫ اغ‬оr p3g ‫ ووى‬h dy emcrmg

and

the width

rh3s gusser धर्मп

be the

amount

complications.

both gussets

το

making-patterns

bottom

the

would

the side gusset, and then cut the bottom

many

this will proveimpossible

styles;

edge,

until the

in Fig. 61)

upwards

will increase

over

(additional

gusset

D and at what

taken

che hag 5s

as no bending

The most accurate method would be to estimatethe

τуpеs

frame

is

5৪ rhe same‫و‬

width, complete

Now

line

This

D to the

to fit; this will avoid

rhree

a

ห‫اعل‬hcп

as follows:

way(as

and then from

margin.

w 重о‫ال‬d

completed. gusset

in the normal

or ന്നсhm5пg‫و‬

rhe ппе

оdर्धाоus

has the } in. omitted,

is taken up into the side gusset

D is reached,

additional allowance

also

is produced

line

аdоνe

decome

หവി

s7

occurs, but the rise of the bottom

gusset

The gusset inset

gusset

PATTERNS

hme аpрణdпg

а

deprh 5s cхсeеdಲd‫و‬

This

bottom

ല്

EDGE

FACED

s5dc

margin

so that

в has τhe 囊ооsе be machined

gussecs

the complete

haen

it can

rumоνеr

еdges

turnover,

mmed

be attached

hanged rrom 5τs

left

the flush

to

ra5sed

to the raised bottom gusset.

വി

овют

D-to-fold-line,

line so

All three are

shown in Fig. 66. The

bottom

gusset

A is turned

round;

machmmg

το τhе

оп

described. पिक्ष

raised

margins

fication ‫اعلانل‬

hur

поτ

ror

each в

has

end and а

mmaner

it possible

where

be made

auen

compensation,

rhc

is

ап

turned

over

all

are left

free

for

round

to use material

డ

в an addmonal

5n‫ ء‬ല് maredd

they meet the back

the full length of all three

may

style

the sides

аrrer

toeach side toraise it for the machining

This then makes

enｺо‫و‬

introduced

at

‫اسل‬уs

depth has been added

τhе

of the broken-bottom

over

to the system

bag το

ореп

and

bottom

run

the same size for

gussets.

mdrh ac

rm

is needed

front. Stiffenings

of side-gusset

co hs

rhe eхrrа operation

must

A further

base τhe

folding

be

modiwhich

dase huτ‫و‬

will help the bottom gusset to stay in its correct

rhe

аs

а

position

SIMPLE

58

ന്നന

5n eneㅁ 0rren m

to sag if continually

ങ്ങവ

rhe rhree

overloaded,

PATTERNS

EDGE

FACED

hаνе

descddcd

‫ש‬pణ

but if patterns

it will be a long time before

ings have been introduced

а rendency and stiffen-

are correct this

happens,

[|__| ‘.

...

'

*

'

yy

=

’

-

‘

s

e

'

-

“y ‘

‘ ‘

.

Ae ’

Hs.

Z

°

Fig.

aaa

OL

тh5s

hm modmcaeion

く围腰

it appears as an inverted

аррнеs

67১

involves just a simple alteration

to the

end

67

Line

‫اعل‬

τhе

drohen

аnd

donom

line of the base gusset so that

V when open. In this case the side gusset

must

a correspond being

to ensure

machined

ехmns5οп

വ

downwards

together dasae

But notice

and

how

EDGE

this

the

ROUND

basic

it

would

be

will

धानchоur

edge

when

found

pumng

After

folded.

rhe

that

ssde

full

gnscr

be so intense as to break the

HD, after

folding

fitting,

and

аnd 5৪ noc аτ rsghr апg‫ال‬ణ

‫اعل‬

τhc

in its sister pattern.

FRONTS

Of these bag lines no more confusion:

of contact

opened,

5mposs5hha

rhc еnd shape ല് τhe hase gusser

base line of the bag as

FACED

ds

at its place

and the strain imposed

side gusset.

ronens

che

fit

need

principles

are

be said

than

is necessary

to avoid

for the other

modi-

not be round; anelliptical

shape

the same

as

fications given. Fig. 68 shows that the bag line need is possible ణ

ense

but the construction

shspcs rmd ю produoe

for both will be harder

sman

र्धाde

gusens

ങ്ങന

to proportion, а

mge

ьоnen

FACED

SIMPLE

gusscr

οr ‫اغىال‬

guide.

A happy

smce

νегsа‫ء‬

medium

EDGE

rherc 5s no dcnnhe

must

89

PATTERNS

ро5nr оยnsеc

be chosen to see that

ю

the gusset

ап

аs

a

sizes are

in harmony with each other as well as with the bag as a whole. What is often overlooked rh5s

gusser

resrs

is the depth of the bottom gusset at its centre, for upon rhe mardng

ment, it will be found governed centre

point

by its end width,

expansion

аnd еνen

is by

is determined,

the side gussets doser

collapsed

the front

or folded

and

gusset

is

of using the

back of the bag

broken,

3s 5ndrecrwe

be reached

may

to achieve

which are Seriously

becomes

апн ехpеrト

not its centre, and the only way

апd‫ و‬as rhe епd धर्मdrh

must

aпd‫و‬

of the bottom

placing

it too high or too

a deep centre to the bottom gusset

me enr msms

and wider

рanеrn

care being taken to avoid

5rs 且епgrh‫و‬

a compromise

ല് τhе сопарюе

the base expansion

making

rhen rhe ехрans5оп

low. Too high makes shorrens

that

affected

are co кhе ссппс

the side gusset—so

while

ье rhe mmc

reasonable by this

dase ല് τhе

the bag may befilled with gusset!

сasе‫ض‬

proportions

bottom

much so that

the latter

5n еaсh

rrom‫و‬

gusset. rhe

for The

dcapcr

when they are all

тn

may

enn

EDGE

FACED

SIMPLE

fo

or rhcse

che apenrmce

PATTERNS

uhe samc procedmc

sddc gusscrs‫و‬

in this chapter,

as for the first example

be followed

but the width

HDis the end and nor the centre of the bottom gusset. All folding is done in the normal way and the rigid base modifications can be introduced, difficulties

ಗಿ п러g‫ء‬

т‫اغو‬pद

satisfactory,

their adoption

‫ دلى‬5s dmsenr

owing

to a loss

of the base-gusset

height

m

сю

w machsnc

centre.

Byjoining

SIDE

endous

The principles

ല്

а

ssen

exterior

recommended

material

uan

show

cannot

оr

than

clearance

machme

апп

το

} in.,

to

for the frame

വി the ьаsе

оп

rrom τhe

rdded

corner of the body, C, is placed on line B, and the gusset dend‫و‬

donom

inset point, is marked to

аs

and

feed

presser

धर्मdrh

വി

way

rnarhed again

еdgе‫د‬

‫ال‬ess

and the inset point

for the gusset

has line

and

half the

line

п

मै ‫ءالةم‬

w

the back and front. The top

between

is completed тhen‫و‬

point

in the usual

danm

τhс

the inset length, making

to the line

B is

appropeimardy

on line A and the inset

outline

the fold at right angles

йпе

в

point

B, a line is taken

is placed

way down rrom

rhe

E; from E

for the com-

and fitted, it should appear of the gusset, and when cut, folded,

m 百且g‫دل‬

69ㅁ

Tn оопdusюn‫و‬ some

than

for the final

sumdenr

а

size

paper

leg in the usual

allow a neat fit when it is inserted

pletion

the

allow

ореппе

not be more

allow

to

examples

(Fig. 69).

A marked

me

separate

หവി enur

а сhaпgе

inset margin must

be less

have

which must

top on previous sонd‫و‬

The main body piece is cut to the required

m

rhar nccur

rhe сhапgణ

as one and making

for the body

is made on the bottom bends; the folded

आईdτh

are dis-

is obtained.

dur ৪৪ τhе dase docoms

minimum

cyunder

uп‫اغ‬

to the

up and down.

here in one respect; the maximum

ర్ооτ

653 5s

equal

GUSSETS

can srm de аdоpτed‫و‬

machining

cmgo

в

an amount

if the difficulties

However,

the front, back, and bottom

Side gussets, a three-piece

jin. The

and ವು‫س‬pс by

will be gained by cutting them. A number

when the inset point is moved

INDIVIDUAL

both give rise to

commercially.

of capacity

regarded, valuable experience

or en mnems

as they

but are not recommended,

which preclude

mar

n musr dc emphassaed

finer detail can be incorporated

excessive height does not make the gusset front or back shoulders, phoe र्धा poans

so, by using

o and che mses

w

mакe

а

when calculating shoulder

the

perrecr

protrude

hypothetical

rhe rormen hesng рдасю

йreing‫و‬

to ensure

that

above the

points

FG in

ന്ന τhе ппе в‫و‬

smns

construction The

псвв

mcm

because a greater thickness

width

of the gusset

base

will not make

it too tight when

mc

hm

‫ש‬m

ది

divided

а‫الال‬оधनаnсе

and

spaced

rm

is being dealt with.

being

width

酐

нтпжю

4 in. less

than the body

de пеcеssаrу

虽重 rhe

can be given, but, after

5udged

еаsну‫ء‬

dody

seirrenmg

5s

at the bends so that when it is bent up it conforms

in width to that of the gusset pattern base. Therefore, ment

base

the body is bent up; possibly,

practice,

the correct

no exact measureallowance

will be

7

CHAPTER

бบssвт

SECTION

UPRIGHT

ren

um

വിന്ന

FRAME

said

Mucu has been

PATTERNS

of gusset

rhe dody

rop

The

preceding illustrations

but

topping,

only

marginal

the

de ല് rhe сorrесτ

ю

frame legs has so far been discussed

comers, and if folds

popos

conn5n

hmgrh

width

ю rcach

en

in any detail. no fold

show that

are required

has been made at the

illustrations

these

will not serve

as

guides. Folds can alter the pattern shape and if this is not appreciated smreing τhе оопsnuനоn‫و‬

error may поτ rened hserr unτй τhе

ап

Process is reached, when it will be found that the introduction has

in the leg depth being

resulted

leg length

to counterbalance

dur n धारीп

seeious

loss

this

de seen more

too short.

5r

rdar gussers

renﾏ

а

ofextra

section

is, for upright

easny

of

omission

The

before

rramsng a fold frames,

are made

first. The gusset

top is taken

first

edge of the frame-leg

outside

frame-section

folded

topping,

ρоsmоn

rhe сопю

so that

it

finishes

Remember also

as gusset

depth is allowed

ccenrre or gusseo m

and

position.

on the

that as only onc

this

places

соrrеspопd코ng

the hinge

το mar ല് rhe

frame hinge. If a topping position

is

of double

earlier and makes

thus shortening

or

triple

a corner

width,

fold and

emed

оrrhе

оrr‫اعل‬s

rord

to be described

allowed

top; it had therefore

pleat

for the

gusset

} in. long is required

Take

the folded paper

edge the usual frame-leg dac dsagram Next

make

by the bag’s position where deram

0‫اغةيبد‬

7ನ್ನು

the base

dur

опе

లుm

inset

the

point

mark

sumce

百оr

is

to

shape

rest,

then

ifa

lines are shown on

рапепь

fold is governed

the

outline,

complete

section

pleat, but

off from the folded

from

place

of the

and

me

5s g且νen

frame

be as follows.

4 in. Two

width line (its distance

correct

corner

should

before,

base width measurement),

to obtain

the

mentioned

depth, then add

no

this

centre,

at framing.

shape

had only the one

the procedure

reaches

the gusset

rhe gusser

оп

below. The last gusset

edge

any attempt

the leg depth and preventing

тhr‫ اغ‬desr ехаmр复е

its

raises

the

body not

pattern in forgetting

gusset

base

as

GUSSEL

5s

modmcadon added,

попмпy‫و‬

madeg

in which

case

CORNER

FOLDS

Hy

rramesecdon

οпе

when closed

the leg depth

deprh

and

shoudd

he

would

be

folded

}

1 } in. too deep,

taking

depth for the gusset

then one frame-section లులు

gme

corner

rhe

fold.

amount

me

deprh

cutting

stands

which upd

орened

hsg

сorrесr After

above

сhапged

In short, whatever

юр

аnd

an ‘ear’

one

the corner

side

when

आईп аррeаr

аs

the gusset

above

depth,

the frame-section

add

is always

ല്

rhe

(that

gusset

is folded

and

7α

5п 百电

fold required,

വിdτh

of the

this width

frame leg and adopt the whole as the leg depth. The gusset over and

in.,

top, and this, when folded, аррпжйпию

τhе

off

the body

une

in. fold,

A

to correct this. First, add

is needed

1 in. of material,

up

1 in. too wide when open.

or the gusset

to the

top addition,

double

the corner-

rdd ध्य囊dτh‫اغ‬ For example:

corner

=}in.

fold

frame section=} in. gusser wp The but

it

above remains

srradghr‫و‬

аnd

be added the bodies

may

proportion true only

may

еνeп

so long

chen пeсd

to the one-piece have shoulders,

shoulder-free

simple

type

shg

help

bags

as

邑п‫د‬

the top

డ 邑n‫ء‬

described;

a line

this

line of the

somc аdర్usrmеnr‫ء‬

as the alteration has

р‫ال‬us

in memorizing

modification, gusset

comer

it does not matter occurs

is kept

rohds

can

whether

on the gusset.

taken from the top corner

The

of the

64

GUSSET

‫رمواعلالم‬ ‫ةماغ‬ ‫اعل‬

rhar

धा such ап апg‫ال‬е

mm cansch 己s parr angha may mererore

ппе and marhmg dds ройк uldng one frame-section

‫اعل‬hеп

τhе

ല് τhe corner

FOLDS

dody തന

нпе

धर्मधीh

lsne upenrds

peinr

оп

‫ اعل‬аdoue

depth. At right angles

rhe gusser

Figs.

71 and

72

show

the

of two examples

finished

τhе

а‫ال‬ㅇпg раrr‫و‬

ro且dеd‫و‬

hody

юрㅁ

τhc dody

chem

rmm

4sod marh che 百о且d endrh ρ‫ال‬u‫و‬ to this line the gusset-top

line is then drawn andits length is the usual

shoulders,

且s

ല് rhe dag

ss 6ush ങ്ങന

de dererm5 ned hy 6rsr rddmg

τhe rord а

CORNER

leg depth plus

appearance,

having the same

with

edge

stitching.

and

without

fold width.

(| “Vy

Fie 7

effect

ft

can be obtained

\.

by leaving

extra

paper

be the gusset, folding it to the size required.

for the

part

which

is

to

The frame is then placed

in the position it will occupy in the bag and the amount left above the comer and below its leg hinge (plus machining) opened

up, the same result is obtained

These favour

folds

often

them since

give

rise

they allow

to

as

controversy;

for variable

top, which, if too large, the superfluous behind

is trimmed

them, the folds thus providing

off. When

by the first method. many

sizes

lining

a margin

pattern-makers

in the linings

material

at the

can be folded

for error. A more valid

CORNER

GUSSET

ror

da5m adding

framing Folds rhere

ronds

is

rigidity,

หവി

without

ье

srrengrhen

rhgy this

one

doubt,

though

by

even

this

can only

65

rrnme

аr

those

che

function;

dag 且eпgrh

they

‫ש‬h‫در‬сh

be ensured

comers the

doing

material hinders

genuine

ല് che

shenensng

п০

τhе

disputed

is

that the additional

who maintain

have,

framing,

mgr

though

FOLDS

‫اغاعل‬

actual

their speed. ensure

లుоu且d

that

рreνепr

removing

before

the

corner ears.

SIDE

SECTION

FRAME

PATTERNS to those

The patterns for this type of frame are similar right

section,

since

rhe τоps

me ‫سواسل‬

rop

material

that

the body, between

the main difference

ro rణсh

enters

the

legs

а

leg in alignment

to the upright

and

the

for the uptops,

are no gusset оuτന്നrds

rrom

rmme peg

the frame

in contrast

there

do ren hаνе w be mrned

০r rhe gussers

соmеr

that

being

section

leg material

at the top

which

beyond

has

corner

the

it, when

body

folded

of top

as

in

Figs. 60 and 63. When

viewing

Position,

rrameseceion

сcm‫د‬есτ‫ال‬уধ

encourage

bag top

as a rectangle

dcprh

an ear sometimes сж

a sample

it appears

5৪

hem

(without

a frame)

ro rhe mmdng

pos5c虽оn‫و‬

appears at each corner if separate

тhоugh

mese

сап

in the upright

with an unbroken line, but when

de awmed

‫ש‬hеn

as

пg

side gussets

its 73‫و‬

are not

panerncureing

easy framing of the corners, it would not matter

if, on a turned bag,the ears were retained.

m

a great

ro deal

కి

നmസn

rnerhod

‫والد‬

FOLDS

CORNER

GUSSET

64

ms

ro swp

enchsnmg

нпе

m rhc

frame section, marked X on Fig. 74. This will eliminate at the corners

material

and permit

easy

framing,

provided

corner is cut at right angles to the top line of the gusset.

gusser

ю йп rhe hody

allowance Position

gusset

the

(Fig. 75). The gusset

for upright

section

reduction,

ennmg

п

additional

mg

shen 5n

at the top so that

or

full

5s നവിdеred

for

allowances क्षा

can be

folded

be made

controlled

το hene

to give

run

material, so that the gusset centre (hinge)

top edge, as this makes easier and safer the framing nem аnаdวmenr

酸 dm

rrame

To be fully appreciated w ν‫ةم‬uайะе

ю

this must

rhar any ssde sacdon

upward

Fig.

74

mscmnsng

and a

shows

one

rmns

gusset

way

as

internal

maximum

gusserร

is above

оr eenn

the body-

and a more perma-

be practised,

rrame

but it is

hag hmdng

strained

а

ν‫ةيب‬rор

not

το

difficult

gusser

can

when opened, asthere is a

movement of the hinge which is more strained

uprsghr seceim urhsch has

edge

τhe dng‫ء‬

part from the frame if continuously direct

the gusset

in the same

а

rhe

to its framing

opening

of material

adennmge

or

A faced

74 musr hane в dоuలుе

gusset

tops may

frames—Vs

hasc

any unnecessary

than the

hdp hodd й 5n рисеㅁ

centre

with

the

hinge-piece

removed,

GUSSET

లుhsсh

renarer

ghu a

йn且sh

adoption

of this

removed

to correspond

GUSSET тhesе method

method

FOLDS—SIDE

and

result,

gusset

folds simply

From

what

of a side

to obtain

After

to develop

rhose

‫ اغاعل‬दhе

rorhdds

for

rhs

the pieces

updghr scceiom horh 5n

of patterns

a system

and accurately

section

updghr 꽤а‫اعل‬ng directly

rrameus

frame,

but

can be made, but it

for making

to establish

a

mentioned

of

these side-section

basic

set

drafts

the

they can be converted

the

framing

rough

above, of

been that

rhe rrаmс‫ةيب‬sеα‫اعل‬п

of principles

upright

leg depth will be shorter

сdgе shape,

to

нпс and നനоर्धाпg as shown

confirm

with the different

types

the

section

to fit the corner

а

after

being p견еcе

ооrпcr

in Fig. 76.

change

occurs,

that

as

of frame, it will be noticed

the bag is not in the same place in each case. The reason

is that, seceien

as

will be remembered,

rrarne

separare

s5de

enns

ahmys

gussers‫و‬

the

р‫ال‬aсed

decause

ന

rhe

body pattern top rhe ‫اغ‬g gussec

depch

‫ال‬eg

for

ппе

deprh

the

‫س‬hеn

smand

from the top of the bag, whereas, in the case of side section, the

top of the top

already

the correct

that the top this

has

cutting

described

arise

ല്reп

SECTION

rrom

so no interchange

it will be realized

brohcn алопg

mind

сen

is better

it

‫اعل‬h虽сh το หюr‫فإب‬

gussets,

the

hmgcg

67

with the frame edges A and B when closed.

durerem

аrе

rhe

FOLDS

if it is used

rdds

be possible

for

round

but

CORNER

should

rrom

CORNER

body,

of the

for working

front,

сопппдспою

when

cutting

since

purposes,

here

a seceion gussets,

if an interchange

gusset deprh

is a section leg

dо‫ש‬п‫ء‬

and it illustrates

of frame section

depth

depth starts тh5s

down from

(owing

musr

the difficulties

is to be considered

to the

he ‫اعل‬mе that

3п

may

for the one

pattern. Two

examples

of

shouldered

types

with

average

gussets

will

be

6a

GUASKT

dmchdmd

ങ്ങസ

CORNER

nnei mc mnen

FOLDS

hueienre

unm

‫اعل‬बे‫اغ‬

ന്നന്ന

ийеr

‫كناعلفةمال‬

have been dealg with,

seants

‘

tilly the type with gusset attache (co the frontand

‘Lu describe

or as one piece) would complete

‫ةيدالةيبف‬

‫فاعلاعلال‬

rdenve

dc ลurпu‫ءةم‬m

m me

much of a former

tenn repeating

ar the outset, with only

lustration

虽苋 mc csmnnha

begins

at

X which

top line, and continues line Z is reached.

is a frame

down as before

The dotted outline

always necessary to have the cut-away

of explinu-

3৪ cen amd unnpnred

on the related pattern, but it is an important leg depth

chapter, soa

the essentials

яююи

nm chenen an ‫اعلةمدالواعل‬

change

section

down

shows

point

ങ്ങ

because the frame-

depth

until the hinge-centre at this

umh

ss nnd 77l

రాచెలు

‫اعلالدوال‬

back,

from the machine-

that

it is not

round the hinge (made by turning

down the shaded area), but there is one point

in its favour—it

relieves

a any strain or tightness rsghr

r‫اعل‬s

crhough

round

र्धाц

nor

the hinge

happen

罪

should

the

be little

gusset

ణ‫اغ‬uhdопs

hmre

ьееп

made

correctly). Note also that the corner-fold which

body line it is transferred gnser outline

కuρоп

nench

n

to the gusset

ಯಯ

τhar

is similar

(except

along the dotted line

the top; by

folding

side. It is this dotted

5৪ соmp‫اغ‬τed

being cut parallel to it. Thus, apart

appearance

gusre

width is measured

is one section depth down from

йпc‫و‬

τhe

иpрgr

from the Missing

for fold introduction)

along the line of the

and yet

dradg

corner, its its size is

dmdrmn

By taking a faced edge separate-gusset

pattern (uncut, with the lines

r‫ء‬пssпт

of the

body

puctern

нпкннц

position

‫رمال‬ന‫ء‬ns

shown)

it

will

cmen rncrhm gmdm ure ‫ل‬లుh ‫اعلש‬ว аಗಿсrenп‫اعلد‬

B, to the

fold, is the normal

indicating and

point

Z is the

taken at any YZ

and

тhе

at

ra5s5ng

away gusset

from

angle

right

position

line

A

to it that

increases

the frame-leg ппе

а

the

the

increasing donal

bag the

heighr

top, leg

‫ةم‬

depth by merely There any

of

сапу

Y

Line

is

and

thus

ensuring

а

easy

and so adding

гюu且rеd

n

adjusting

the distance

ణп

de

off.

‫أللداعلاعلاعل‬8

eliminates

should

‫أت‬ the

depth

be hori-

on the line A,but it is not always gusser

line A, the gusset

depth

of up

V

measured

gensers

line, a true gusset

so grear

is little reason to adopt

size frame

dw

of the

depth

from this

ьag το

be taken the other side above

lines

with shoulders,

depth is

ది eighrens

zontal when the line YZ falls directly 重оr

if the

the dotted

(or back) fitted

the leg depth slightly. As the gusset-leg

to be measured

coaneniem

helpful

of the fold from the shoulder.

у2 ю‫ש‬аrds

bulk, but increases

is always

more

upwards, off line A, from Z, and it is from this line

angles

വി нпе

be

ひロ重属 7юㅁ

calculation,

base gusset

the outline of the bag front

酶

frame

corner

8hourd

attachment,

to the bulk.

оbτa且пed

to, approximately,

ьцж

une

墅2

centre (hinge) will be raised but

also

But if this addi-

धर्मτhоur

5пcrణsing

‫ال‬еg

from the fold edge to A. folds on side section gussets 24 cm. in Jength.

Above

on this

70

wuystl

rengm rheydo suppen τhe

CORNER

rrame

FOLDS

вνen sο‫ و‬rhe οm5ss‫اعل‬n оrcㅇmеr р复ణrs

on the average sizes is better not only for ease of construction the internal appearance,

but for

8

CHAPTER

pnsncн ‘THOUGH

arranged,

well-known

5s ಗಿrവിу

Of turned

type

less

other

prench seam

seam

to form

terms

assocsared

varying

These seams can be successfully of a stiffening,

seam

bags.

lines

be more accurate,

crarrsrnen

It is how

designs,

and

धर्मऑन

these

that

the

a ങ്ങല്п

seams

make

are

them so

today.

popular

use

might

dy handdag

in turned

used

the

sвదిмs

is glued

0епегапу

which gives

but

sрeahmg‫و‬

of the bag within or intricate,

not

the

τhణе

outline

seams

to which the

acts as a foundation shape

and

may

unwisely

to the bag as a whole.

de made

ణn

reason and can be straight,

but if chosen

made only by the

and permanently

only

used

апd

involve

оп

апу

рarτ

or convex, simple

concave

much work and

dis-

appointment.

FRENCH то

MAKING

SEAM

mahe

а

prench

sdrch

sеаm‫و‬

р虽ecఅ

τസ

оr mareeial

race

ro

ren

a along but

one edge.

parallel

machined

to

Stiffening

the

edge are

line

board

is then laid on one side little lower

of stitching

taken

round

on the other side. Thus the material dоలుп

5s τhеп а‫اعل‬е

h5nge

ю

out. This, then, would bag or to remain form

part

ല് some back,

the only

specmc nne

аdd且eiന്ന‫ال‬

pieces

board

forming

and glued

the

down

on the side that has not beenstuck

rhe нпе оr seirchmg

it to extend

freely

апd

сап

ье орепed

to the other side of the

seam, be it an ornamental оrа des5gn body

and front

means

the beauty

allow

the two

on the same side; thus in both cases the free edge can

of another

bottom,

оп

and

the stiffening

of securing

of this srrengrh

seam ణn

during the machining

is

cp5gm

4০

turnover,

panel, collar, or part

and 40‫ء‬

the turnover (it should in the absence

he οdra虽пеd

assembly,

hy

тhe seiddng

οr

τhе

in Fig. 41 to the stiffening be appreciated

of visible

rhe anachmenr

machining),

οr

is

that but

radrdc srdps

which are finally pulled over and stuck

down after seam making (Fig. 42).

SEAM

CALCULATION

The straight аопки

F

and

rhe

seam

is the simplest,

τurnоνer

5s

раrаned‫د‬

but тhе

only

ifitis vertical

rurnоνer

‫ةم‬

mosr

or hori-

5mpоmпr‫و‬

ror

яസrd置ng

n numder

లు and 853‫و‬

minimum twrnover width must

τhe

раn

or рw‫اعل‬en

యి

5nscn

rhe gussec

ю che dengm

陆 md в m ‫وداعلاغةيبال‬

and вв rhc mmencr

hc no sen‫و‬

n mcre లుcവിd

unsrhom

кжу

to

SEAMS

FRENCH

72

оr

seidm en concerncd വിക്കു

be sufficient

for the positioning which it is to be stuck and must also allow

line

of

the

of the

used. A turnover

stiffening

of

margin,

con-

and the possible

} in. is the narrowest

always

but it will be found to be dangerous

into

take

also

the machining

of the material,

the nature

sideration

must

width

turnover

of this

The calculation

of

on the edge

not

board.

stiffening

kind

and

surface

on the inner

of machining

тhc

to pass over thestiffening

to aim at the minimum.

au

ida

|

ACA sf }

i |

|

Fig. 79

margin

the

} in., and

+; in.

the machining in. After

3

to } in. on the same

the

7, in. from

the machining

but by increasing thickness

44 in. and the stiffening

is

allowed

line is approximately

the machine

the edge of the stiffening,

line now falls

margin

turnover

turning and completion,

machine

is 7, in. thick,

that the stiffening

Let it be assumed

margin to

example,

from the edge of the stiffening

the

(Fig. 79),

drmgmg rhc scam nmr ro dme еdgс‫اغ‬

margms

тधाnগোеr

guanry ല് rhc 且ణτhеr സന

thickness

will lead cutting.

to

difficulties

to

to

edge remains

of concave

later.

a

оепа5п

соursе‫و‬

me

ежегп

hmher

dy

rhe

ап hmr rhdr

‫ال‬ణrhеrs

musr

ье വി a

where

the machine line mustbe after

that though this can be easily effected straight

and convex

cannot

and the turnover

shapes

in construction

All such intricacies

be referred

ല്

ю

md harsh

for strength.

be emphasized

while the stiffened introduction

hard‫و‬

апd‫و‬

Having given some guide as turning, it should

соnτrонеd

‫دل‬sо

आँеcrs‫وو‬

dmacrerssdc

reasonable

are

used కsоrτ‫و‬

and

and turnovers involve

be mentioned

parallel,

the

not parallel

complex

patrern-

here but many will

FRENCH

లుhеп seams

क्षणοr围пg

धर्मrh

mrand

SEAMS

73

mmmcrs

धर्मपरी

srrasghr

acting as bag or panel edges where the transverse

and

lines are to be horizontal, some adjustment to the tumover be made пм

so

after

that, రాచెఇ

reguteed

tuming,

the secondary

to the

8ο‫ةيبز‬

i \= ?:

Fig. 80 Convex

lines

аnd

of rules

cause

shmnd

understanding

berately

5п

ణsy

dangers

success पिधामधक

every ०r

of complex

Pant

\

Back

RS

complexities

of their machine-line

to guarantee

the

pattern

de аnemрced

do mdce use ०rсena3n know

shape must

parts conform

2!

r‫ى‬u‫اغ‬τs‫و‬

shped

top and bottom

but

smgs

also

calculation. time,

give

ro еsn‫اعل‬邑sh

but

attractive

a τhоrоugh

There can be noset skilled

pattern-cutters

an

seipende sysrems w aರು且cνе

seam work

and

may

丁hеу

sometimes

deli-

err on the right side to allow for pattern adjustment later.

When

dealing

with a convex

seen in the reversed rate herore ങ്ങсhйn코ng edges, the convex

seam panel the first difference

shape of the material 丈围已 8nl

turnover

arcer

edges

macmning

of the material

face to

аnd madeing τhe rurned

becomes

~

Gq.

will be

when placed

ruffied or pleated.

Tr

ai bs aE

i Fig. 81

This in turn may, and often does, affect making

that also appear

сопюх

mmener

ddng

mmed

area, which in turn shortens anything The should

attached

stiffening not

more acute dary

have

ಉсr

5nm

а

smaner

its machine line (by

to it such as the secondary (shaped too

from the pattern)

great

a curvature

on the turnover,

amchmenp

the secondary

тhе

leather attached

to have a ruffled surface. This is caused

same

spacc

τhап

pleating),

by the hs സന

shortening

leather. forming

the

or the pleating

together

with its effect

рrο‫اعل‬еm

ല് mmcenr

panel

edge

will become

upon

any secon-

ന്ന献ణdന്ന

വിങ്ങ

FRENCH

74

й rhc

secondary

оr rhe

hnes

with the panel, but much depends

horizontal and

honom

md

юр

SEAMS

arrangements

the working

that

且еаτhеrs

made

been

have

rmdm

ю

аrе

upon the

pattern-cutter

with the bench

workers (Fig. 81).

а

turnovers,

joinuy or separately,

edge along

French-seamed used mostly

cut. They

if deeply

especially

all be used

can

is the straight

combination

popular

but the most

of

rrom

оpρоs呈rе

d5mcun5en

ന്ന‫اغ‬n

and the part or wholly curved edge gusset, which forms a

body turnover

finishing

m

enm धर्मп de round ro hक्षणе

the convex

given, the introduction

examples

and convex

As with the straight concare

on framed

the

These

at the top corners.

the seams

the problem

eliminates

frame

are

combinations

Such

outline.

bag’s

as the

bags,

of

seams are of two

gusset

surround the types; those that form gussets at each end, and those that back and front of the bag.

日窟日毗コ暑

s覆దిм

бบssలోrs ror us5ng

‫ودف‬m ఇppюаch dags comd

rnsr

de

phsr

rme

rhar

rhe

harge

‫ةم‬s

need nor he ghrn ьuτ

seam ror нарогн

a gusser

аs

τhen

раnеrп‫و‬

dody

margsn

machme

丑m

5s

аnd is rhe same

machine

and

line

machined,

the

and it was

(before

Care

effects

decided

machining) therefore

must

of

that

than be

the piece

taken

cutting. But here a problem arises—which is to occupy

the upper

position

? This

still not be clear to the inexperienced

to which

to effect of

the pieces

could

it

is

being

pattern

to be machined

be debated

student,

being

a shorter

when

this

was laid

pieces

needs

piece

rhе

оп

fit as possible.

of the

movement

the upper

апd

flush edge

of turned seams, emphasis

In the section on the construction machining

ю

hs н‫اغ‬5dτh

5৪ machsned

in obtaining as perfecta

when machining, which willassist

upon

rerer

nong

dads‫و‬

соmрr‫اعل‬ng

р5cсе

parts toensurea gussets, and must aliray's be the same for both

machined,

το

s‫ב‬d‫ء‬

co urhach she gusser

τhe mmooer

саrdеs

seam

musrrared

ап

demmng

τhе nenserechnscar

hατоm‫و‬

srra5ghr

а

ro emmsnc

at length

but a brief résumé

and is aS

follows. A.

It is easier

than a curved

to machine

along

a straight

one, butit is less effective

B. As it is usual for the straight-line it has to contain although

condensed

(bythe feed) turning

the greater

referred

to

the

amount

to accommodate

straight)

piece to surround of material

machine-line

to, sufficient

(or nearly

for construction

length

in its of

the stiffening.

a stiffening,

machine line;

the

movement is always

line

purposes.

upper

available

piece after

FRENCH

п rcsrcrscd

c‫د‬

line and

length

రರಿ‫اغ‬प

rhc

mrrdng

ьggs

at

the seam

кಸㅁ5rh

psped

(especially

that

ьоdy

cannot

more

be

balanced,

This

ss

ю

than

piece

example

m in 且епgтh 19 in., and

should

positions.

must

2 }f in., but 5пнuenced

more

knows,

than

length

pig

аrе

for example,

skin

rop

оп

been

on to the body.

be

less,

to

bring

This

about

σrher

νаr5a‫اعل‬e

sheep-skin

This

will

suggests

line when a distinct

will

lines may measure-

rucren

stretch

or

an alteration change

a

on the

be such that the corners

these are hypothetical ьу

that

or crocodile.

of the upper machine

(Fig. 82) it has now

The back and front machine

mems

machinist

praced

The amount of reduction

be 7}:in. and the bottom rhey

decn

g rhe gusnn enh5en ппе rhererore

back, front, and bottom of the gusset

decause

that

turned

on ordinary

has

will be machined

flush top after machining.

fall in their respective

нпе

machsne

be found

given to the shape is

noticeable

is more

rhds scmsghr

with the side gusset

нпе

it will

complete girths).

the gusset

machmc

‫ اغاعل‬rhc shorrcsr

smdng

and the full boldness

‫ש‬hсп

those forming

To continue decided

edge.

seams

апd

75

on to the stiffening),

of material

there is a degree of tightness absent

SEAMS

тhc move

to the

of material

is

madе‫د‬ 0n rhe gusser ехвmр且е which

will

make

a

further,

this shaping

corners

but

alteration Should

will

0వా5ఇ

further

82‫ و‬బ rhecorners reduction

will not only

eliminate

of

the

cm dc renndad വിghd‫اعلو‬ machine-line

help the machinist

some

of

the

bulk

length;

to negotiate

withour

making

the any

to the final shape. a round

base to the gusset

be required

(us in example

C)it is

“6

FRENCH

nrdr s

gusrsen

oralcedng

SEAMS

аnd

rhc shаре‫و‬

rurrhcr

св‫ال‬сu‫آم‬dоп

so chm chc

base edge centre X meets the body edge centre X!. Shape

is the governing lower

upper and

й 5s a ‫ةيب‬u‫اعل‬оn aher

ല്‫اعل‬a‫ال‬

апц

the following

If both are

lines.

will stand

опс

all users

or nearly so, then

5s р‫ال‬aсеd

stead, if they

principle.

revolved length

or moved

has

τhe

‫اعل‬

been

and rhc

dc snadghc

in good

The piece which is to be uppermost is first cut to shape. 균ng йпе

of the

measurement

straight

dur shmdd

еrrоr‫د‬

convex, then this rule

incorporate

in the accurate

factor

machine

hne

mach5ne

until its whole

transferred

on

оr ns 且оधाer

machining

to

and

d ‫اك‬ or

line circumference line

machine

the

Its machin-

parmer

of the

lower

mnerm er, More concisely,

тм

/

mnerdars

upper

dengrh

enhsnedsnc

length of the lower material’s

machine

This is quite a reliable method

of measuring

common sense, as it can only margin is not increased In addition, adopted

dn аdm‫و‬е

be

曲rа虽nedg

cmgmal

p罩లిce

ओनങ്ങdधकз τор‫ر‬

धामеmem‫و‬

оп

d апd en‫و‬

ఆ

rhe

.

but

it must be usedwith

so long as the machining

this

that

including

sm unस्पrmeп

аs

‫ש‬5dкh

dde‫ةم‬gussеτ rhe

dody

psg

83‫و‬

入 5s

elaseic

system

many being

in the end

change

ап

5n 8‫ء‬

but

mmoenrr

rhe

яз 5п

romdng

reliable

accepted

goods,

ойеn

τhe ьоdy

m ье

line.

pattern-cutters,

leather

рdпdрlcs‫و‬

ву पिcreas邑пg

ап 出e

must

observations,

of turned

ю

de сg‫اهل‬

excessively.

byall experienced

fact from early patterns

it

remain

shoupd

and

the

all pattern-cutters

produce

by pracusing

ruhe ല് τhumb‫د‬

5п rhe

emmpre 旺ｺ邑屬

rummrer

धर्मdrh‫د‬

ro hаνe rhe क्ष

is

travel goods,

ехаmр囊e

mmeimum

devised

consciousof

endous

mrnmer

rhe dase‫و‬

crrecrs

renn me धाममि sre nm

৪‫وבב‬

വിപmधाम

оr rhe

धामsర్‫اغ‬

SEAMS

FRENCH

hag нпе 5s hepr

п τhе

Fig. 82, no change line

is

ణus5ng

for

line of this

mecomers

vertical,

turnover

then

it

will

be

has to turn into

found

bag

that

a shorter

the

length,

cpig sg‫ و‬сゝ‫اغ‬

that

machined to the edge

form are skilfully

of

the girth piece

worked

out, away from

appear

flat. But

piece.

rrom

the superfluous

material

when the turnover is made, and the pleats must

then be stretched

bag sides

it

is

оп

are concave,

putting a slight

found

that

ю donom and rhe

the top

Fig. 82 shows

if the

into position

Thus

юр

prench enms at

has been

of the bag is convex

If the line

turnover

అ sn

and up ణలు s虽dе‫دل‬

distributed

gusset

аrrапged

धर्मdrh

the slope of the bag edge the larger the ears become,

and the ears

it is turned

ener

the

body

and when the gusset

to

mmoen

cars m de rhrmm up аr rhc srmde ьепds

The more severe

in

me

апd

in the above rule will be needed, but if a sloped

subStituted

machine

νeп王యి‫د‬

77

the

the retention

an end gusset

attached

line

has a поппа2

rhe dody нпе വിаaроνеr for

the turnover

must

strain on the seam and

convex

cоenνе

is evenly be pressed

ьаgs regudre

of a planned

makes

of

slack

rhc mm5mum

gusset

to a turnover

a

aрpణrmс‫ר‬е‫ء‬

expansion.

parallel

width,

but the top of the turnover

could be of any width. The final top girth

macmning

rhe нп5пg‫و‬

లులు

ല്ന

бпdude

with the exterior for a continuous

be as

expected

turnover mately

after

making

3% in. after completing

provides

rhe цпбпg

musr ье marched

line to be made (Fig. 84, A).

the machining

circuit.

But

at the top is 2 in., the gusset width will be reduced

धर्मп haνe ന്നсh呈nеd purposely

ന

machine

avoided eight

dadc by

оп

this top machining,

co 5r

ап

machining

lots of starting

addmond in

four

and finishing

because

ది 5п‫ ء‬оrgussеτ‫و‬ parts,

ends

and

which,

if the

body

to approxieach corner unhss й 5s ultimately,

is not generally

a

propennon

mmmerdad

is responsible

FRAME It

An

く围鲁

లురు тhㅁs ㄷhe ‫اغاعلاعل‬ of the gusset

for the final position

be sufficient

French-seamed

m ‫ש‬hа‫اغ‬νеr

‫و‬о rhae

to

rule

after making

рయి‫اغ‬к互οn

rummrer

the top.

ensure

that

ㅇrrhe

‫اسل‬у

She =

!

, es

85‫و‬

тh5s

is vertical

with ьоdу

ee Pena

pee

{>~

“sse7

immediately

the gusset at all, will

the top framing cumaner

=

corner

धर्मdτh ㄷㅇ hc s

GIF =.277

7

>

.

.

cy

59

Fig. 85

F

..

34

seirchsng

‘

¢ e

e

a

s\

NOT

aucanance

4

.

ls

maximum, as it can extend

‫ש‬虽dеr

TO

SCALE

rhan

narrowed

fs

ais

rhe

beyond

inwards

as in Fig. 85, B,or it can be

em emma

shoumen

тh5s

the top corner

to only

of

5s

пσc

rhe

the body,

a half, or even a third, of

width, as in Fig. 85, Cand D, which show the ease in which

rop

rans

on, and bends

arrer

5п роs5τ5оn

line. It is not vital that

оn

a

Py

ee

the shoulder

“4

x

s

preventing

he

of the body)

alignment

‘al

width

rop หവി