Delightful Nyonya Treats 9789814677899, 9814677892

The PeranakansA people ofmixed Chinese and Malay heritage, the Peranakans are known for theiroutstanding cuisine. Tradit

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Delightful Nyonya Treats
 9789814677899, 9814677892

Table of contents :
Cover
Copyright Page
Contents
Introduction
Acknowledgements
KUEH SARLAT LEPAK KACHANG
KUEH SARLAT PULOT HITAM
Kueh Talam Pandan
GETUK UBI
Kueh Lapis Kukos
KUEH PUTU TEGAIR
KUEH BUGIS
KUEH JAGUNG
ABOK-ABOK SAGo
ONDE-ONDE
KUEH KHOO
KUEH TALAM BERLAUK
Pulot Gula Melaka
KUEH PULOT TEKAN
KUEH DADAR
REMPAH UDANG
ALMOND sugee COOKIES
KUEH BANGKEK
KUEH BELANDA
KUEH BOLU
KUEH KARA KARA
KUEH KODOK
Sasagoon
Kueh Ambon
KUEH BENGKA UBI DURIAN
LONGAN TEA WITH RED DATES
BUBOR CHA CHA
PENGAT PISANG
CHENDOL
PULOT HITAM
Glossary of Ingredients
Weights and Measures
About the Author

Citation preview

Delightful

NyonyA TreAts Philip ChiA

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Editor: Melissa Tham Designer: Bernard Go Kwang Meng Photographer: Lua Hwa Beng, Filmtech Photography Copyright © 2016 Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited Published By Marshall Cavendish Cuisine An imprint of Marshall Cavendish International All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright owner. Request for permission should be addressed to the publisher, Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited, 1 New Industrial Road, Singapore 536196. Tel: (65) 6213 9300 Email: [email protected] Online bookstore: www.marshallcavendish.com/genref Limits of liability/disclaimer of warranty: the author and publisher of this book have used their best efforts in preparing this book. The publisher makes no representation or warranties with respect to the contents of this book and is not responsible for the outcome of any recipe in this book. While the publisher has reviewed each recipe carefully, the reader may not always achieve the results desired due to variations in ingredients, cooking temperatures and individual cooking abilities. The publisher shall in no event be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damage, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages. Other Marshall Cavendish offices: Marshall Cavendish Corporation. 99 White Plains Road, Tarrytown NY 10591-9001, USA • Marshall Cavendish International (Thailand) Co Ltd. 253 Asoke, 12Th Floor, Sukhumvit 21 Road, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand • Marshall Cavendish (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd, Times Subang, Lot 46, Subang Hi-Tech Industrial Park, Batu Tiga, 40000 Shah Alam, Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia. Marshall Cavendish is a trademark of Times Publishing Limited National Library Board, Singapore Cataloguing-in-Publication Data Chia, Philip, 1960- author. Delightful Nyonya treats / Philip Chia. – Singapore : Marshall Cavendish Cuisine, [2015] pages cm ISBN : 978-981-4677-89-9 (paperback) 1. Cooking, Peranakan. 2. Desserts – Singapore. 3. Desserts – Malaysia. 4. Cookbooks. I. Title. TX724.5.S55 641.59595 -- dc23

OCN919859627

Printed in Malaysia by Times Offset (M) Sdn Bhd

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Contents iNTRODUCTiON 4 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTs 7 Kuehs

Biscuits

Desserts

Kueh Sarlat Lepak Kachang 8 Kueh Sarlat Pulot Hitam 10 Kueh Talam Pandan 12 Getuk Ubi 14 Kueh Lapis Kukos 16 Kueh Putu Tegair 18 Kueh Bugis 20 Kueh Jagung 22 Abok-abok Sago 24 Onde-onde 26 Kueh Khoo 28 Kueh Talam Berlauk 30 Pulot Gula Melaka 32 Kueh Pulot Tekan 34 Kueh Dadar 36 Rempah Udang 38

Almond Sugee Cookies 40 Kueh Bangkek 42 Kueh Belanda 44 Kueh Bolu 46 Kueh Kara Kara 48 Kueh Kodok 50 Sasagoon 52

Longan Tea with Red Dates 58 Bubor Bubor Cha Cha 60 Pengat Pisang 62 Chendol 64 Pulot Hitam 66

CAkes

WEiGHTS And MEASURES 71

Kueh Ambon 54 Kueh Bengka Ubi Durian 56

ABOUT THE AUTHOR 72

GLOSSARY OF iNGREDIENTS 68

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Introduction Over the years, many friends have asked me to prepare Peranakan kuehs and desserts. As such, it has become necessary for me to compile these treasured recipes so that they can be shared with everyone. Nyonya kuehs are little cakes or pastries created by the Peranakans or Straits Chinese. These kuehs have a strong Malay influence and are made from local ingredients such as coconut milk, glutinous rice, tapioca flour, palm sugar and of course, the ubiquitous pandan leaves. What makes these kuehs so unique is that seemingly Chinese ingredients such as mung beans and red beans are used as well! The winning combination of Malay and Chinese ingredients therefore bring about endless variations for the kuehs as seen in this book. Peranakan kuehs have become so significant among the Babas and Nyonyas that they are almost

synonymous with their identities! When you think of the Peranakans, you immediately think of their delectable kuehs. The colourful and delicate kuehs will always be welcomed additions for your breakfast or afternoon tea tables. In this book, I have sought to simplify the recipes and adapt them for the modern kitchen so that new or experienced cooks will be able to prepare the food with ease and confidence. Some ingredients have also been modified with healthier options so that you can eat these irresistible kuehs and desserts with less guilt! As part of my heritage and culture, I shall continue to research more about Peranakan cuisine and share the recipes with all my friends and fans. I hope that you too, will join me in this exciting culinary journey! Happy cooking and eating!

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acknowledgements I would like to thank the team at Marshall Cavendish International (Asia), namely, Lydia, Bernard and Melissa and also my photographer Hwa Beng for giving me this opportunity to share these traditional Nyonya recipes that have been passed down from my family. Thank you also to my colleague and helper Abel Yeo for helping to prepare some of the kuehs and desserts featured in this book. I would also like to thank Chef Khoo WeeBin, Chef Nicholas Lam, Chef David Ang, Executive Chef David Toh, Chef Madeline Tan, Chef Cheng Hun Pin, Chef Paul Sin, and Chef Randy Chow. All of them have encouraged me tremendously in my culinary journey and they have also inspired me in many ways. Not forgetting the person whom I respect very much, my Father of Inspiration and Mentor, Chef Otto Wiebel, formerly Director of Kitchens for Raffles Group of Hotels in Singapore. Thank you for providing me with your invaluable advice and guidance. Lastly, I would like to thank my family and friends who have inspired me to excel in my culinary journey by constantly reminding me to evolve and think of new ways to elevate Peranakan cuisine to a higher level. Thank you for your endearing love, care and support over the years.

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KUEH SARLAT LEPAK KACHANG Steamed Coconut Egg Custard With Glutinous Rice And Black-Eyed Beans mAkes one 18-cm squAre cAke GLUTINOUS RICE LAYER pandan leaves, as needed, rinsed and knotted 400 g glutinous rice, soaked for 2 hours and drained 125 ml coconut milk 325 ml water 1

/2 tsp salt

80 g black-eyed beans (lepak kachang), rinsed, soaked for 1 hour and drained 2–3 dried blue pea flowers (bunga telang), rinsed water, as needed 1 banana leaf, oiled PANDAN LAYER 500 ml coconut milk 150 g sugar 10 pandan leaves, mixed with 100 ml water, blended then strained 1

/2 tsp salt

5 eggs 100 g rice flour 3 tsp cornflour a few drops green food colouring

1. Prepare glutinous rice layer. Fill cake tin with pandan leaves. 2. Spread drained glutinous rice in cake tin. Add coconut milk, 225 ml water and salt. Stir well to ensure that glutinous rice is evenly coated. Add black-eyed beans and mix well. 3. Place dried blue pea flowers in a bowl with remaining water. Leave to soak for 15 minutes. Strain colouring. 4. Steam glutinous rice for 30 minutes over high heat, then drizzle blue pea flower colouring over rice. Gently mix rice with a fork until blue colouring coats rice evenly. Steam for another 15 minutes until rice is cooked. 5. Allow rice to cool a little, then press down with an oiled banana leaf or spatula to flatten and compact rice. 6. Prepare pandan layer. In a saucepan, cook coconut milk, sugar, pandan juice and salt over low heat until mixture dissolves and there are no lumps. Set aside. 7. In a mixing bowl, beat eggs. Add coconut milk mixture and stir well. 8. Add rice flour and cornflour gradually, a little at a time, and mix well. Add green food colouring and mix well. 9. Sift pandan mixture, then pour over glutinous rice layer. 10. Steam for 20–25 minutes over high heat until pandan layer sets. 11. Allow kueh sarlat to cool completely before cutting into serving slices with an oiled knife.

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KUEH SARLAT PULOT HITAM steamed coconut egg custard with white and black glutinous rice cake mAkes one 18-cm squAre cAke GLUTINOUS RICE LAYER pandan leaves, as needed, rinsed and knotted 400 g glutinous rice, rinsed, soaked for 2 hours and drained 100 g black glutinous rice, rinsed, soaked for 2 hours and drained 125 ml coconut milk 225 ml water 1

/2 tsp salt

1 banana leaf, oiled PANDAN LAYER 500 ml coconut milk 150 g sugar 10 pandan leaves, mixed with 100 ml water, blended then strained 1

/2 tsp salt

5 eggs 100 g rice flour 3 tsp cornflour a few drops green food colouring

1. Prepare glutinous rice layer. Fill cake tin with pandan leaves. 2. Spread drained glutinous rice and black glutinous rice in cake tin. Add coconut milk, water and salt. Stir well to ensure that glutinous rice is evenly coated. 3. Steam for 30 minutes or until rice is cooked. Allow rice to cool a little, then press down with an oiled banana leaf to flatten and compact rice. 4. Prepare pandan layer. In a saucepan, cook coconut milk, sugar, pandan juice and salt over low heat until mixture dissolves and there are no lumps. Set aside. 5. In a mixing bowl, beat eggs. Add coconut milk mixture to mixing bowl and stir well. 6. Add rice flour and cornflour gradually, a little at a time, and mix well. 7. Add green food colouring and mix well. 8. Sift pandan mixture, then pour over glutinous rice layer. 9. Steam for 20–25 minutes over high heat until pandan layer sets. 10. Allow kueh sarlat pulot hitam to cool completely before cutting into serving slices with an oiled knife.

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Kueh Talam Pandan steamed rice pandan cake MAkes one 15-cm squAre cAke

PANDAN LAYER 60 g rice flour 20 g tapioca flour 20 g mung bean flour 175 g sugar 10 pandan leaves, mixed with 100 ml water, blended then strained 250 ml water 1

/2 tsp lye water

COCONUT CREAM LAYER 30 g rice flour 30 g mung bean flour 250 ml coconut milk 1

/4 tsp salt

1. Line 15-cm square cake tin with parchment paper. Set aside. 2. Prepare pandan layer. Combine rice flour, tapioca flour and mung bean flour in a double boiler pot. Mix well, then add sugar. 3. Add pandan juice and lye water and mix well until mixture is smooth and does not contain lumps. 4. Cook in a double boiler until pandan mixture thickens. 5. Remove from heat, then transfer pandan mixture into prepared cake tin. 6. Steam for 20 minutes over high heat. 7. Prepare coconut cream layer. Combine rice flour, mung bean flour and salt in a clean double boiler. 8. Add coconut milk gradually and stir well until mixture is smooth and does not contain lumps. 9. Cook over low heat until coconut cream mixture thickens. 10. Remove from heat, then pour over pandan layer. 11. Steam for 20 minutes over high heat until pandan layer sets. 12. Allow kueh talam pandan to cool completely before cutting into serving slices with an oiled knife.

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GETUK UBI tapioca in orange sugar with steamed grated coconut mAkes one 18-cm squAre cAke

500 g tapioca, washed and peeled 175 g orange sugar STEAMED GRATED COCONUT 500 g grated skinned coconut 1

/4 tsp salt

1. Prepare steamed grated coconut. Line a steaming tray with muslin cloth. Sprinkle grated skinned coconut with salt and steam for 5 minutes. Set aside to cool. 2. Steam tapioca in a pot for 20 minutes over low heat or until soft. 3. Remove from heat. Transfer into a large mixing bowl. 4. Add orange sugar. Using a fork, mash tapioca until sugar completely dissolves. 5. Spoon tapioca mash into a 18-cm square tray, then press down with the back of spoon to flatten and compact tapioca. 6. Allow getuk ubi to cool for a while before cutting into serving slices. 7. Coat with steamed grated coconut and serve. TIP: Do not mash the steamed tapioca too finely as the rough and uneven chunks provide more texture for the kueh.

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Kueh Lapis Kukos steamed nine-layer rice cake MAkes one 21-cm squAre cAke

oil, as needed 600 g castor sugar 1 tsp fine sea salt 3–5 pandan leaves, rinsed and knotted 1 litre coconut milk 1 litre water 350 g rice flour 350 g tapioca flour a few drops food colouring as desired

1. Brush a 21-cm square cake tin with a little oil. Set aside. 2. In a large heatproof bowl, mix castor sugar, sea salt and pandan leaves with coconut milk and water. Stir until mixture is smooth. 3. Bring to a boil over low heat until sugar dissolves. Remove pandan leaves. 4. Turn off heat and allow mixture to cool slightly. 5. In a large mixing bowl, add rice flour and tapioca flour. 6. Add coconut milk mixture and whisk slightly until batter is smooth and there are no lumps. 7. Divide batter into equal portions depending on the number of food colourings used. Add food colouring to each portion and mix well. Set aside a small amount of red coloured batter for the final layer. 8. Ladle batter randomly on prepared tin. Steam for 3–4 minutes over high heat until batter sets. Ladle a different coloured batter over the first layer and steam for another 3–4 minutes until second layer sets. Repeat with remaining batter. Ladle reserved red coloured batter as the final layer. 9. Allow kueh lapis kukos to cool before cutting into serving slices with an oiled knife.

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KUEH PUTU TEGAIR steamed tapioca with banana and sago MAkes one 21-cm squAre cAke

water, as needed 60 g sago, washed and soaked 1 kg grated tapioca 2 Tbsp butter, melted 225 g castor sugar 1 tsp vanilla essence 1

/2 tsp banana essence

250 ml coconut milk a few drops red and green food colouring 6 ripe bananas (preferably pisang raja), coarsely cut into small pieces STEAMED GRATED COCONUT 250 g grated skinned coconut 1

/2 tsp salt

1. Prepare steamed grated coconut. Line a steaming tray with muslin cloth. Sprinkle grated skinned coconut with salt and steam for 5 minutes. Set aside to cool. 2. Grease a 21-cm square cake tin. Set aside. 3. Bring a pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add sago and cook until sago is transparent. Stir continuously to prevent sago from sticking to the bottom of the pot. 4. Remove from heat. Set aside to cool. 5. In a large mixing bowl, mix grated tapioca with butter and castor sugar. Add vanilla essence and banana essence. Mix well until sugar dissolves. 6. Add coconut milk and cooked sago, then mix well. 7. Divide mixture equally into two portions. Add red and green food colouring to each portion. Stir to mix colours well. 8. Ladle green mixture on prepared cake tin and steam for 20–25 minutes. 9. Place cut bananas on first layer. 10. Ladle red mixture over the bananas. Steam for another 30–35 minutes to ensure cake is completely cooked. 11. Allow kueh putu tegair to cool completely before cutting into serving slices with an oiled knife. 12. Coat with steamed grated coconut and serve.

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KUEH BUGIS steamed glutinous rice cake with rich coconut milk MAkes 10 pieces

250 g glutinous rice flour 150 ml coconut milk 10 pandan leaves, mixed with 100 ml water, blended then strained banana leaves, as needed, cut into 10 x 16-cm squares and blanched to soften COCONUT SAUCE 100 ml coconut milk 50 ml water 50 g sugar 4–5 pandan leaves, rinsed and knotted 1

/4 tsp salt

1. Prepare coconut sauce. In a saucepan, mix coconut milk, sugar, pandan leaves, water and salt together. 2. Bring to a boil over very low heat, stirring continuously to prevent coconut sauce from burning at the bottom of the saucepan. 3. Remove from heat and set aside. 4. In a large mixing bowl, combine glutinous rice flour with coconut milk and pandan juice using a wooden ladle. 5. Mix well and knead lightly to form a smooth pliable dough. 6. Cover dough with a damp cloth to prevent it from drying. Set aside. 7. Spoon 2 Tbsp dough on a banana leaf square. Drizzle 1 Tbsp coconut sauce over. Wrap well, sealing open ends with mini bamboo sticks. Repeat until dough is used up. Steam for 15–20 minutes over high heat. 8. To serve, unwrap kueh bugis on a plate.

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KUEH JAGUNG chilled mung bean flour cake with sweet corn mAkes 8 pieces

120 g mung bean flour 150 g sugar 1

/4 tsp salt

250 ml coconut milk 750 ml water 50 g sweet corn, liquid drained banana leaves, as needed, cut into 15-cm square sheets

1. In a pot, mix mung bean flour and sugar with salt, coconut milk and water. Whisk lightly until flour and sugar dissolve and mixture is smooth and does not contain lumps. 2. Bring pot to a stove over low heat. Stir continuously until mixture thickens. 3. Place 11/2 Tbsp sweet corn on a banana leaf then top with 3 Tbsp sweet corn. 4. Wrap banana leaf tightly and keep refrigerated for 1 hour. 5. Unwrap kueh jagung and serve. TIP: Alternatively, sweet corn can be replaced with sliced ripe bananas.

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ABOK-ABOK SAGo steamed sago with palm sugar and grated coconut milk serves 10

750 ml water 250 g sago, rinsed, soaked for 30 minutes then drained COCONUT FILLING 150 g grated skinned coconut 100 g sugar 200 ml palm sugar syrup 1

/2 tsp salt

1. In a pot, bring water to a boil over high heat. Add sago and cook until transparent. Stir continuously to prevent mixture from sticking to the bottom of the pot. 2. Remove from heat. Drain sago. Set aside. 3. Prepare coconut filling. Cook grated skinned coconut, sugar, palm sugar syrup and salt in a clean pot until mixture is thick. 4. Stir continuously to prevent mixture from sticking to the bottom of the pot. Remove from heat. Set aside. 5. Place cooked sago in a jelly mould until half-filled. Add 1 Tbsp coconut filling, then top with more sago. 6. Repeat until ingredients are used up. 7. Keep abok-abok sago refrigerated until ready to serve. TIP: Alternatively, you can also add food colouring to the sago for more colour. For a more traditional way of making abok-abok sago, you can also wrap them in banana leaves and shape them into cones.

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ONDE-ONDE glutinous rice flour balls with palm sugar filling mAkes 35 bAlls

250 g glutinous rice flour 10 pandan leaves, mixed with 100 ml water, blended then strained 250 g palm sugar (gula melaka), finely chopped STEAMED GRATED COCONUT 100 g grated skinned coconut 1

/2 tsp salt

1. Prepare steamed grated coconut. Line a steaming tray with muslin cloth. Sprinkle grated skinned coconut with salt and steam for 5 minutes. Set aside to cool. 2. In a large mixing bowl, place glutinous rice flour, then add pandan juice, a little at a time. Knead well to get a smooth pliable dough. 3. Portion dough into 35 small balls, each about 15 g. Roll dough between your palms to form a smooth ball. 4. Make a small well in the centre of the ball of dough and fill with 5 g chopped palm sugar. Bring the edges of the dough up to enclose the palm sugar and pinch to seal. Roll between palms to form a ball again. 5. In a pot of boiling water, add onde-onde and cook over medium heat until they float to the surface. Remove balls with a slotted spoon and allow excess water to drip off. 6. Cook onde-onde in batches to avoid overcrowding the pot. Coat with steamed grated coconut while balls are still hot. 7. Transfer to a plate and serve.

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KUEH KHOO glutinous rice flour cake with mung bean filling mAkes 10 pieces

banana leaves, as needed, lightly oiled and cut into 5-cm squares DOUGH 60 g sweet potatoes, peeled, boiled and mashed 300 g glutinous rice flour + more needed 1 Tbsp sugar 100 ml coconut milk 50 ml water 3–5 drops each red, purple and orange food colouring 3–5 drops sesame paste FILLING 100 ml water 500 g mung beans, washed and soaked 450 g sugar 10–12 pandan leaves

1. Prepare dough. In a large mixing bowl, place mashed sweet potatoes and add glutinous rice flour, a little at a time. 2. Add sugar, coconut milk and water, then knead to get a smooth and pliable dough. 3. Divide dough into 5 equal portions. Add red, purple and orange food colouring to 4 portions of dough. Add sesame paste to remaining dough. Knead to make sure each portion of dough is evenly coloured. Set dough aside and cover with a damp cloth until ready to use. 4. Prepare filling. In a small pot, bring water to a boil over high heat. Add sugar and pandan leaves and cook until sugar dissolves. Remove pandan leaves. 5. In a separate pot, bring water to a boil over high heat. Add mung beans and steam for 20–30 minutes until soft. Set aside. 6. Transfer syrup into a food processor. Add steamed mung beans. Blend until filling is smooth. 7. Divide dough into 10 balls of 50 g. Flatten a ball of dough and top with 12 g mung bean filling. Bring the edges of the dough up to enclose filling. Roll between your palms to form a smooth ball. Repeat with remaining dough. 8. Dust kueh khoo moulds with glutinous rice flour. Press a ball of dough firmly into mould. Turn mould over and place each kueh khoo on a small square of banana leaf. Repeat with the rest of the balls of dough. 9. Place kueh khoo on a steamer. Steam over medium heat for 10 minutes. Remove kueh khoo from heat and cool slightly before serving. Brush lightly with oil whilst still warm.

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KUEH TALAM BERLAUK steamed savoury rice cake mAkes one 18-cm squAre cAke

fried shallots, as needed, for garnish 1 red chilli, finely sliced, for garnish 1 green chilli, finely sliced, for garnish FILLING 2 Tbsp cooking oil 1-cm knob ginger, peeled and finely diced 3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely diced 60 g ground roasted dried shrimps 2 red chillies, seeded and finely diced 4 sprigs coriander (cilantro) leaves, finely diced 3 sprigs spring onions (scallions), finely diced 11/2 tsp ground white pepper RICE CAKE 250 g rice flour 30 g cornflour 3 tsp sugar 1

/2 tsp salt

1 tsp ground white pepper 500 ml coconut cream 600 ml water

1. Brush a little oil on a 18-cm square cake tin. Set aside. 2. Prepare filling. Heat oil in a wok over medium heat. Sauté ginger and garlic until fragrant. Add remaining ingredients and stir-fry for 1 minute. 3. Remove from heat and set aside. 4. Prepare rice cake. In a pot, sift rice flour and cornflour together. 5. Add sugar, salt and ground white pepper. Mix well. 6. Add coconut cream and water gradually, a little at a time, and blend with a whisk to remove any lumps. 7. Place pot over medium heat and stir until mixture thickens. Add remaining ingredients. Mix well. 8. Transfer mixture into prepared cake tin. Steam for 20 minutes over high heat or until kueh talam berlauk is firm. 9. Allow kueh talam berlauk to cool completely before cutting into serving slices with an oiled knife. 10. Garnish with fried shallots and finely sliced chillies as desired. 11. Serve.

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Pulot Gula Melaka steamed glutinous rice with palm sugar syrup mAkes 10

500 g glutinous rice, rinsed, soaked for 2 hours then drained 3 tsp lye water PALM SUGAR SYRUP 200 ml palm sugar syrup 60 g rock sugar 125 ml water 5–7 pandan leaves, rinsed and knotted STEAMED GRATED COCONUT 120 g grated skinned coconut 1

/2 tsp salt

1. Prepare steamed grated coconut. Line a steaming tray with muslin cloth. Sprinkle grated skinned coconut with salt and steam for 5 minutes. Set aside to cool. 2. Prepare palm sugar syrup. In a small pot, bring palm sugar syrup, rock sugar, water and pandan leaves to a boil over high heat until mixture becomes slightly thick. Remove pandan leaves. Sift and set aside. 3. Add lye water to glutinous rice and mix well. 4. Fill a 5-cm silicon circular mould with glutinous rice. Press with spoon to firm and compact rice. 5. In a large pot of boiling water, cook kueh gula melaka for 1 hour. 6. Drain and allow pulot gula melaka to cool slightly before coating with steamed grated coconut. 7. Place pulot gula melaka on a plate and top with palm sugar syrup. TIP: The traditional method of preparing pulot gula melaka is to wrap the kueh in banana leaves that have been shaped into a cone. Spoon 2 Tbsp glutinous rice on the banana leaves and press with a spoon to ensure rice is firm and compact. Seal and tie with a raffia string.

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KUEH PULOT TEKAN steamed glutinous rice with coconut egg custard mAkes one 18-cm squAre cAke

600 g glutinous rice, rinsed, soaked overnight and drained 350 ml water pandan leaves, as needed, rinsed and knotted dried blue pea flowers (bunga telang), as needed 1 tsp fine sea salt 1 banana leaf KAYA 10 eggs 450 g castor sugar 250 ml coconut milk

1. Place glutinous rice and 250 ml water in a 18-cm square cake tin filled with pandan leaves. 2. Steam for 25–30 minutes. Once cooked, flake steamed glutinous rice with a fork. 3. Place dried blue pea flowers in a bowl with remaining water. Leave to soak for 15 minutes. Strain colouring. 4. Divide glutinous rice into two portions. Add blue pea flower colouring to one portion. 5. Mix well and return coloured rice to cake tin and steam for another 10–15 minutes. 6. Turn off heat. Press rice down with a banana leaf to flatten and compact rice. Cover with banana leaf. 7. Place a mortar and pestle or a heavy object on top of rice. Set aside for a few hours. 8. Prepare kaya. In a heatproof bowl, whisk eggs and castor sugar lightly until sugar dissolves. 9. Add coconut milk and mix well. Cook over medium heat in a double boiler. Stir occasionally until smooth and there are no lumps. 10. Remove from heat and set aside. Turn rice cakes out when cooled and firm. 11. Cut into serving sizes with an oiled knife. Top with kaya or serve kaya in a separate bowl.

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KUEH DADAR pandan pancakes with grated coconut fillings MAkes 12 pieces

coconut milk, as needed PALM SUGAR SYRUP 200 g palm sugar (gula melaka), chopped 50 g rock sugar 250 ml water 2–3 pandan leaves, rinsed and knotted COCONUT FILLING 600 g grated skinned coconut 400 ml palm sugar syrup 2 Tbsp sugar 100 ml water PANCAKES 4 eggs 75 ml coconut milk 10 pandan leaves, mixed with 100 ml water, blended then strained 1

/2 tsp salt

250 g plain (all-purpose) flour 1 Tbsp cornflour 1–3 drops green food colouring

1. Prepare palm sugar syrup. In a saucepan, boil palm sugar and rock sugar with water and pandan leaves over high heat until palm sugar and rock sugar dissolves. Remove pandan leaves. Sift. 2. Prepare coconut filling. In a pot, mix grated skinned coconut, palm sugar syrup, sugar and water. 3. Cook over low heat for 15 minutes, stirring to prevent coconut filling from burning at the bottom of the pot. Mix well. 4. Remove from heat and set aside. Allow filling to cool before using. 5. Prepare pancakes. In a mixing bowl, whisk eggs, then add coconut milk and pandan juice, a little at a time, with salt. Whisk until well mixed. 6. Fold in plain flour and cornflour. Whisk lightly until well mixed. Add green food colouring then mix well. Allow batter to sit for 10–15 minutes. 7. Heat oil in a small non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Add 2 Tbsp batter into pan and immediately swirl pan to make an even thin layer. 8. Cook until batter is set and pancake browns slightly, then flip it over to cook the other side for a few seconds. 9. Place pancake on a place. Repeat to make more pancakes until batter is used up. 10. Place 35 g coconut filling in the centre of a pancake, then fold both sides over and roll up to neatly enclose filling. Repeat until pancakes and filling are used up. 11. Drizzle coconut milk over or serve on the side.

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REMPAH UDANG glutinous rice with spicy dried shrimps mAkes 10 pieces

banana leaves, as needed, cut into 12-cm rectangle sheets cocktail sticks, as needed GLUTINOUS RICE 600 g glutinous rice, soaked for 4 hours 250 ml coconut milk 100 ml water 1

/2 tsp salt

REMPAH 15 dried chillies, seeded and soaked 150 g shallots, peeled and sliced 3 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced 2-cm knob turmeric or 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 stalk lemongrass, 4-cm from bulbous base, grounded 200 g dried shrimps FILLING 2 Tbsp cooking oil 100 g grated skinned coconut 1

/2 tsp salt

2 tsp sugar

1. Preheat oven griller to 180°C. 2. Prepare glutinous rice. Rinse and drain glutinous rice, then place on a steaming tray. 3. Add coconut milk, water and salt. Mix and steam for 45 minutes or until rice is cooked. 4. Set aside and allow glutinous rice to cool until ready to use. 5. Prepare rempah. In a mortar and pestle or a food processor, grind rempah ingredients into a paste. 6. Prepare filling. Heat oil in a wok over medium heat. Sauté rempah until fragrant. 7. Add dried shrimps and grated coconut. Stir-fry until golden brown, then add salt and sugar to taste. 8. Place 2 Tbsp glutinous rice on a banana leaf. Spoon enough filling along the middle and roll banana leaf neatly into a cylindrical parcel. Repeat with the rest of the glutinous rice and filling. 9. Secure open ends with cocktail sticks. 10. Grill in oven griller for 1–2 minutes until leaves turn slightly brown. 11. Remove from oven and serve warm.

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ALMOND sugee COOKIES almond semolina cookies mAkes 40 cookies

200 g plain (all-purpose) flour 50 g semolina flour 100 g icing sugar 1 tsp baking soda 1 tsp baking powder 50 g ground almonds 1

/4 tsp salt

150 ml corn oil 1 tsp vanilla essence

1. Preheat oven to 175°C. Line a baking tray with parchment paper. Set aside. 2. In a large mixing bowl, sift plain flour, semolina flour, icing sugar, baking soda and baking powder together. Add ground almonds and mix well. 3. Add corn oil and vanilla essence and knead to get a smooth dough. 4. Roll dough out to 1.5-cm thickness. Cut out cookies with a 2-cm square mould. 5. Place cookies on prepared tray, spaced apart. Bake at 175°C for 10–12 minutes. 6. Remove cookies from oven and leave to cool on a wire rack before serving. Store in an airtight container. TIP: For more texture, add 50 g crushed roasted sliced almonds to the batter.

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KUEH BANGKEK coconut cookies MAkes 85 cookies

350 ml coconut milk 300 g icing sugar 500 g cornflour 250 g tapioca flour 5 egg yolks, beaten 1

/2 tsp salt

1. Preheat oven to 175°C. Line a tray with lightly oiled parchment paper. Set aside. 2. In a pot, cook coconut milk with icing sugar over very low heat until sugar dissolves. Do not bring to a boil. Turn off heat and allow mixture to cool completely. Set aside. 3. In a mixing bowl, mix cornflour and tapioca flour together. 4. Add beaten egg yolks and salt to cooled coconut milk mixture, then gently pour mixture into mixing bowl, a little at a time. 5. Knead gently to get a soft and pliable dough. Roll dough out to 0.8-cm thickness on a floured surface. 6. Use cookie moulds to cut out desired designs then pinch the top of each cookie with a pastry pincer. 7. Place cookies on prepared baking tray. Bake at 175°C for 15 minutes. 8. Remove cookies from oven and leave to cool on a wire rack before serving. Store cookies in clean air-tight containers. 9. Kueh bangkek can be kept for 6 months if stored in an airtight container. TIP: To get the best results, fry the two types of flour in a wok without oil but over very low heat with a few strips of pandan leaves. Fry flour until light and fluffy to remove moisture. Ensure that flour is completely cool before using.

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KUEH BELANDA coconut egg roll MAkes 75 rolls

4 eggs 300 g castor sugar 350 ml coconut milk 300 g plain (all-purpose) flour

1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk eggs with castor sugar and gradually add coconut milk. 2. Once sugar dissolves, add flour into mixing bowl, a little at a time, mixing well with each addition. 3. Grease kueh belanda mould. Heat mould on both sides over charcoal grill. 4. Using a ladle, pour batter over heated mould. Allow excess batter to drip back into the mixing bowl. 5. Close mould tightly immediately and place on grill. Flip mould to ensure both sides are evenly cooked. 6. Release mould and flip crispy pancake onto a cutting board. Roll pancake into a small wrap while still hot. Repeat steps for remaining egg rolls. 7. Allow kueh belanda to cool before storing in an airtight tin container. TIP: In the old days, we would store kueh belanda in a “cream-crackers rectangle tin” and seal with scotch tape. It takes a lot of patience and endurance to roll the kueh belanda when the pancake is still hot.

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KUEH BOLU mini sponge cakes MAkes 40 pieces

cooking oil or coconut oil, as needed 250 g plain (all-purpose) flour 2 tsp baking powder 6 large eggs 200 g castor sugar

1. Preheat oven to 170°C. Heat kueh bolu moulds, if using, in oven. Brush moulds with oil or coconut oil. Set aside. 2. In a bowl, sift plain flour and baking powder together well. 3. Using a stand mixer, beat eggs and castor sugar until fluffy. Fold in sifted flour mixture at low speed. 4. Fill preheated kueh bolu moulds or mini paper cups with batter. Bake at 170°C for 15 minutes. 5. Remove kueh bolu from oven and leave to cool on a wire rack before turning out. 6. Store in an airtight container.

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KUEH KARA KARA rice flour net biscuits MAkes About 20-30 pieces

450 g castor sugar 600 ml hot water 500 g rice flour 300 ml cooking oil

1. Dissolve castor sugar in hot water. 2. In a heatproof mixing bowl, add rice flour. Pour hot sugar syrup into mixing bowl, a little at a time, using a whisk to form a smooth batter. 3. Set aside to cool until batter reaches room temperature. 4. Heat oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Pour 40 ml batter into a roti jala mould and move in a circular motion to form a thin lacy pancake. 5. Remove kueh kara kara from frying pan when golden brown. Fold kueh kara kara into rectangles or squares using chopsticks immediately. Drain on a paper towel. 6. Allow kueh kara kara to cool before storing in an airtight container. TIP: Traditionally, kueh kara kara was folded into half to form a half-moon shape but the shapes make it difficult for the snack to be stored.

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KUEH KODOK banana fritters mAkes 30

750 g ripe bananas (pisang raja), peeled 1 egg 200 ml coconut milk 50 g sugar 150 g plain (all-purpose) flour 1

/4 tsp salt

cooking oil, as needed

1. In a large mixing bowl, mash peeled bananas into a smooth paste. 2. Add egg, coconut milk, sugar, plain flour and salt. Mix well thoroughly. 3. Heat sufficient oil for deep-frying in a wok over medium heat. 4. Place 40 g banana mixture into wok and fry until golden brown. Fry kueh kodok in batches to avoid overcrowding wok. 5. Remove from heat. Drain on a paper towel. 6. Set aside to cool slightly before serving. TIP: A new way of eating this would be to serve it with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream.

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Sasagoon crispy rice flour and coconut serves 30

3 whole coconuts, grated and skinned 600 g rice flour 2 eggs, beaten 1

/2 tsp salt

300 g castor sugar

1. Place grated coconut in a wok and spread out evenly. Add rice flour, a little at a time, and mix well. 2. Add eggs and salt. Mix thoroughly. 3. In a wok, spread grated coconut evenly to coat the surface. Add rice flour, a little at a time, and mix well. 4. Fry over low heat until light golden brown and crisp. 5. Allow sasagoon to cool completely before adding castor sugar. Mix well then store in an airtight container. TIP: In the old days, we would store sasagoon in recycled tomato ketchup bottles and wrap the bottle caps in red paper.

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Kueh Ambon honeycomb cake mAkes one 18-cm cAke

coconut or corn oil, as needed 30 g dry yeast 310 g sugar 50 g plain (all-purpose) flour 120 ml warm water 400 ml coconut milk 8 pandan leaves, rinsed and knotted 170 g cornflour 6 eggs, lightly beaten 1 tsp vanilla essence 1

/2 tsp salt

3 drops yellow food colouring

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1. Preheat oven to 170°C. Grease an 18-cm brass cake mould with coconut or corn oil. Preheat cake mould. 2. In a mixing bowl, mix dry yeast, 10 g sugar and plain flour. Add warm water and mix batter well. Set aside to prove. 3. In a saucepan, cook remaining sugar, coconut milk and pandan leaves over very low heat until sugar is completely dissolved. Do not bring milk to a boil. Remove pandan leaves. Remove coconut milk mixture from heat and set aside. 4. In a separate mixing bowl, add cornflour, eggs, vanilla essence and salt. Mix well until batter is smooth. Add coconut milk mixture and yellow food colouring, then mix well. Stir in risen yeast dough and mix well. 5. Cover bowl with a damp tea towel and set aside to proof for 1–2 hours in a warm place or a proofing oven. 6. Stir batter and pour into prepared cake mould until three-quarters full. Bake at 170°C for 25–30 minutes until cake bubbles right through to the surface. Grill for another 5 minutes until top of kueh ambon is brown. 7. Remove from oven and leave to cool on a wire rack before cutting into serving slices with an oiled knife. TIP: To make durian pandan-flavoured kueh ambon, add 50 g fresh durian, reduce the amount of coconut milk by 50 ml and replace 3 drops yellow food colouring with pandan paste. Purée the durian and add to coconut milk in step 3.

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KUEH BENGKA UBI DURIAN baked tapioca and durian cake MAkes one 18-cm squAre cAke

oil, as needed 150 g durian, seeds removed 250 ml coconut milk 500 g grated tapioca 30 g butter, softened 200 g castor sugar 2 eggs, beaten 1 tsp tapioca flour 3 Tbsp palm sugar syrup 60 –75 g grated skinned coconut 1 tsp vanilla extract

1. Preheat oven to 180°C. Brush an 18-cm square cake tin with a little oil, then line with parchment paper. Set aside. 2. In a food processor, purée durian with coconut milk until creamy. Set aside until ready to use. 3. In a large mixing bowl, mix grated tapioca with softened butter, castor sugar, eggs and tapioca flour. Mix thoroughly until sugar dissolves. 4. Add palm sugar syrup and durian purée then mix well. 5. Add grated skinned coconut and vanilla extract and mix well. 6. Pour mixture into prepared cake tin. Bake at 180°C for 45 minutes until cooked. 7. Change oven baking mode to “top grill” and bake for 5 minutes until top layer is brown and crisp. 8. Remove from oven. Allow kueh bengka ubi durian to cool on a wire rack before cutting into serving slices.

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LONGAN TEA WITH RED DATES MAkes 2.5 litres

2.5 litres water 150 g dried longans 80 g red dates 80 g rock sugar 10–12 pandan leaves, rinsed and knotted

1. In a large pot, bring water, dried longans, red dates, rock sugar and pandan leaves to a boil over high heat. 2. Lower heat, then simmer for 30 minutes. 3. Serve hot or cold. TIP: You may omit the red dates on normal occasions if preferred. Red dates are usually added to the tea when served at weddings.

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BUBOR CHA CHA sweet potato, yam and coloured tapioca in coconut milk syrup Serves 10

250 g red sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into cubes 250 g yam, peeled and cut into cubes COLOURED TAPIOCA 250 g tapioca flour 1

/2 tsp baking soda

175 ml hot water a few drops each desired food colouring COCONUT MILK SYRUP 250 g rock sugar 8–10 pandan leaves, rinsed and knotted 250 ml water 1 litre coconut milk 1

/2 tsp salt

1. Prepare coloured tapioca. In a mixing bowl, sift tapioca flour and baking soda together. Add hot water, a little at a time, then mix well. 2. Knead to form a soft dough. Divide dough into equal portions. Add enough food colouring to each portion then knead well. 3. Roll each coloured dough into long strips of 0.8-mm in diameter. Cut into cubes. Set aside. 4. In a pot of boiling water, add coloured tapioca. Stir to prevent tapioca from sticking to the bottom of the pot. 5. Cook coloured tapioca until they rise to the surface. Place into a basin of cold water to stop the cooking process. 6. Steam sweet potatoes and yam for 5–8 minutes over high heat. Remove from heat and set aside. 7. Prepare coconut milk syrup. In a separate pot, bring rock sugar, pandan leaves and water to a boil over high heat. Lower heat and add coconut milk and salt. 8. Once boiled, remove from heat. 9. To serve, scoop sweet potatoes and coloured tapioca into individual bowls. Add coconut milk syrup. 10. Serve hot or cold with crushed ice.

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PENGAT PISANG sweet potatoes, yam and banana in coconut and palm sugar syrup Serves 10

150 g palm sugar syrup 3–4 pandan leaves, rinsed and knotted 100 ml water 60 g sago, rinsed and soaked 100 g yellow sweet potatoes, peeled and diced 100 g purple sweet potatoes, peeled and diced 500 g coconut milk 4–5 bananas (pisang raja), cut into 2.5-cm pieces

1. In a pot, bring palm sugar syrup over high heat with pandan leaves and water. Remove from heat and set aside. 2. In a clean pot, bring sago to a boil over high heat until sago is partially cooked. Sago should be partly clear with dots of opaque white in them. 3. Steam yellow and purple sweet potatoes over high heat for 20 minutes. 4. In a separate pot, simmer coconut milk and palm sugar syrup over low heat. 5. While stirring, add boiled sweet potatoes. Add bananas and simmer for 5 minutes. 6. Remove from heat. 7. Serve pengat pisang in individual bowls. TIP: Pengat pisang can be served hot or cold. If a richer taste is preferred, add a little more coconut milk. Alternatively, you can also add diced yam and orange sweet potatoes as well.

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CHENDOL GREEN BEAN FLOUR JELLY IN COCONUT MILK AND PALM SUGAR SYRUP Serves 8 CHENDOL JELLY 12–15 pandan leaves, rinsed and knotted 1 litre water 1

/4 tsp salt

1

/4 tsp green food colouring

120 g mung bean flour PALM SUGAR SYRUP 600 g palm sugar (gula melaka) 100 g rock sugar 300 ml water 6–8 pandan leaves, rinsed and knotted COCONUT MILK 1.8 kg grated skinned coconut, sifted 200 ml boiled water, cooled to room temperature 1

/2 tsp salt

1. Prepare chendol jelly. In a food processor, place pandan leaves and salt with water and blend until fine. 2. Using a muslin cloth, sift pandan paste into a pot. Add green food colouring and mung bean flour, a little at a time, whisking until mixture is smooth and does not contain lumps. 3. Bring pot to a boil over low heat, stirring continuously until mixture thickens. Remove from heat and leave to stand for 5 minutes. 4. Place chendol frame or a perforated ladle in a basin of ice water. Pour cooked chendol jelly mixture on to frame or ladle. Using the back of a big spoon, press mixture in long downward strokes to get chendol jelly in consistent sizes. 5. Leave chendol jelly to set in iced water until firm and ready to use. 6. Prepare palm sugar syrup. In a pot, bring palm sugar, rock sugar, water and pandan leaves to a boil over high heat. Cook until palm sugar syrup is quite thick. Remove from heat. Sift and set aside. 7. Prepare coconut milk. In a small pot, bring grated skinned coconut, water and salt to a boil over low heat. 8. Remove from heat once mixture boils. Transfer into a glass jar and chill in refrigerator until ready to use. 9. To serve, add 1–2 Tbsp palm sugar syrup into a small bowl, then add 3 Tbsp coconut milk. 10. Add crushed ice, then top with 2–3 Tbsp chendol jelly. 11. Serve. TIP: In recent years, we have started adding red beans/kidney beans and other ingredients to chendol.

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PULOT HITAM black glutinous rice with dried longan in palm sugar and coconut milk Serves 10 150 g palm sugar (gula melaka) 100 g rock sugar 1.2 litres water 300 g black glutinous rice, rinsed, soaked for 2 hours then drained 8–10 pandan leaves 1

/4 tsp salt

75 g dried longans 250 ml coconut milk

1. In a small pot, boil palm sugar and rock sugar with 150 ml water over high heat. Remove from heat, then sift and set aside. 2. In a large pot, place black glutinous rice, remaining water, pandan leaves and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add dried longans, then lower heat and simmer until black glutinous rice is almost cooked. 3. Add palm sugar syrup and continue to simmer until mixture thickens and is fully cooked. Stir constantly to prevent black glutinous rice from sticking to the bottom of the pot. 4. Remove from heat. Serve into individual bowls and top with coconut milk according to individual taste. TIP: You can replace coconut milk with coconut ice-cream. Similarly, if coconut ice cream is not available, it can be substituted with vanilla ice cream.

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Glossary of Ingredients

Banana leaf

Black-eyed beans

Black glutinous rice

Dried blue pea flowers

Dried longans

Dried shrimps

Dry yeast

Glutinous rice

Glutinous rice flour

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Grated skinned coconut

Lye water

Mung bean flour

Palm sugar

Pandan leaf

Pandan paste food colouring

Red dates

Rice flour

Rock sugar 69

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Sago

Semolina flour

Tapioca flour

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Weights and Measures Quantities for this book are given in Metric and American (spoon and cup) measures. Standard spoon and cup measurements used are: 1 teaspoon = 5 ml, 1 tablespoon = 15 ml, 1 cup = 250 ml. All measures are level unless otherwise stated. DRY MEASURES

LIQUID AND VOLUME MEASURES

Metric

Imperial

American

Metric

Imperial

5 ml 10 ml 15 ml 60 ml 85 ml 90 ml 125 ml 180 ml 250 ml 300 ml 375 ml 435 ml 500 ml 625 ml 750 ml 1 litre 1.25 litres 1.5 litres 2.5 litres

1

1 teaspoon 1 dessertspoon 1 tablespoon 1 /4 cup (4 tablespoons) 1 /3 cup 3 /8 cup (6 tablespoons) 1 /2 cup 3 /4 cup 1 cup 11/4 cups 11/2 cups 13/4 cups 2 cups 21/2 cups 3 cups 4 cups 5 cups 6 cups 10 cups

30 grams 45 grams 55 grams 70 grams 85 grams 100 grams 110 grams 125 grams 140 grams 280 grams 450 grams 500 grams 700 grams 800 grams 1 kilogram 1.5 kilograms 2 kilograms

1 ounce 11/2 ounces 2 ounces 21/2 ounces 3 ounces 31/2 ounces 4 ounces 41/2 ounces 5 ounces 10 ounces 16 ounces (1 pound) 1 pound, 11/2 ounces 11/2 pounds 13/4 pounds 2 pounds, 3 ounces 3 pounds, 41/2 ounces 4 pounds, 6 ounces

/6 fl oz 1 /3 fl oz 1 /2 fl oz 2 fl oz 21/2 fl oz 3 fl oz 4 fl oz 6 fl oz 8 fl oz 10 fl oz (1/2 pint) 12 fl oz 14 fl oz 16 fl oz 20 fl oz (1 pint) 24 fl oz (11/5 pints) 32 fl oz (13/5 pints) 40 fl oz (2 pints) 48 fl oz (22/5 pints) 80 fl oz (4 pints)

OVEN TEMPERATURE Very slow

LENGTH

°C

°F

Gas Regulo

Metric

Imperial

120

250

1

0.5 cm

1

/4 inch /2 inch /4 inch

Slow

150

300

2

1 cm

1

Moderately slow

160

325

3

1.5 cm

3

Moderate

180

350

4

2.5 cm

1 inch

Moderately hot

190/200

370/400

5/6

Hot

210/220

410/440

6/7

Very hot

230

450

8

Super hot

250/290

475/550

9/10 71

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About the Author Philip Chia www.rice.sg Philip Chia is a fourth generation Chinese Peranakan. He began his love affair with cooking from the age of six when he was taught to pound spices for sambal belacan using the batu lesong (mortar and pestle). As a teenager, he was invited to participate in a cooking competition where he emerged among the top eight in the finals judged by the late Mrs Lee Chin Koon, herself a doyenne of Peranakan cuisine. This event spurred him on to hone his cooking skills further. Throughout his growing years, Philip picked up tips and secrets of authentic Peranakan cooking from the older generation of Peranakans. Being an active member of The Peranakan Association also allowed him to develop a greater appreciation for the Peranakan culture. Today, Philip is highly sought-after as a Peranakan chef and cooking instructor. He is often invited as a guest chef to do Peranakan food promotions both locally and abroad. He has also appeared on several television programmes to promote Peranakan cooking. Philip Chia is also the author of Peranakan Heritage Cooking and Party-Perfect Peranakan Bites.

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