Cured Meat, Smoked Fish & Pickled Eggs 9781612129044, 9781612129037, 1612129048

Table of contents :
Cover
Title page
Copyright
Table of Contents
Introduction
Chapter 1: Techniques & How-Tos
Pickling
Hot-Water-Bath Canning
Pressure Canning
Dry Curing
Brine Curing
Drying
Freezing
Fat Curing
Hot Smoking
Cold Smoking
Chapter 2: Beef, Lamb & Game
Basic Beef Jerky
Sour Orange Beef Jerky
Miso-Yogurt Beef Jerky
Big Game Jerky
Meat Energy Bars
Pemmican (Native American Dried Fruit and Meat)
Biltong (South African Dried Meat)
Khlea (Moroccan Preserved Lamb)
Corned Beef
Pastrami
Chapter 3: Pork
Ham
Czech Pickled Hot Dogs
Bacon Extraordinaire
Cook It: Bacon, Roasted Tomato, and Onion Spread
Salt Pork
Cook It: Boston Baked Beans
Pork Rinds
Pork Belly Confit
Rousong (Pork Floss)
New Orleans-Style Pickle Meat
Cook It: Red Beans and Rice with Pickle Meat
Bak Kwa (Chinese- Style Dried Pork)
Coppiette (Roman-Style Dried Pork)
Chapter 4: Poultry
Chicken Stock
Duck Confit
Cook It: Duck Confit, Endive, and Apple Salad
Duck Breast Prosciutto
Smoked Turkey Leg
Thanksgiving Turkey Jerky
Chapter 5: Big Fish
Cold-Cured Gravlax
Hot-Smoked Fish
Cook It: Killer Smoked Fish Salad
Bacalao (Salted and Dried Cod)
Cook It: Bacalao, Tomato, and Olive Stew
Canned Salmon
Cook It: Salmon Croquettes
Salmon Jerky
Canned Tuna
Cook It: The Best Tuna Salad
Chapter 6: Small Fish
Pickled Herring
Creamed Herring
Cook It: Baked Chopped Herring
Pickled Shrimp
Cured Anchovies or Sardines
Chapter 7: Eggs & Dairy
Preserved Egg Yolks
Salt-Brined Eggs
Slightly Smoky Soy Sauce Eggs
Curry Pickled Eggs
Beet Pickled Eggs
Simple White Cheese
Czech Pickled Cheese
Preserved Herbed Feta
Yogurt
Dried Yogurt Bombs
Frozen Walnut-Yogurt Pops
Banana-Yogurt “Pappadams”
Chapter 8: Beans & Nuts
Tofu Jerky
Pickled Tofu
Sake-Brined Tofu
Canned Beans
Pickled Garbanzo Beans
Protein-Punched Three-Bean Salad
Edamame Pesto
Black Bean and Corn Relish
Honey-Preserved Pistachios
Thanks
Sources and Resources
Metric Conversion Charts
Index
Other Storey Titles

Citation preview

CURED MEAT SMOKED FISH & PICKLED EGGS

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CURED MEAT SMOKED FISH & PICKLED EGGS RECIPES AND TECHNIQUES FOR

Preserving Protein-Packed Foods KAREN SOLOMON

ß

Storey Publishing

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The mission of Storey Publishing is to serve our customers by publishing practical information that encourages personal independence in harmony with the environment. Edited by Carleen Madigan and Sarah Guare Art direction and book design by Alethea Morrison Text production by Jennifer Jepson Smith Indexed by Christine R. Lindemer, Boston Road Communications Cover and interior photography by © Aubrie Pick, except ix (left), 30, and 33 by Mars Vilaubi Photo styling by Claire Mack Food styling by Lillian Kang © 2018 by Karen Solomon All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote brief passages or reproduce illustrations in a review with appropriate credits; nor may any part of this book be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means — electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or other — without written permission from the publisher. The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our knowledge. All recommendations are made without guarantee on the part of the author or Storey Publishing. The author and publisher disclaim any liability in connection with the use of this information. Storey books are available for special premium and promotional uses and for customized editions. For further information, please call 800-793-9396.

Storey Publishing

210 MASS MoCA Way North Adams, MA 01247 storey.com

Be sure to read all instructions thoroughly before using any of the techniques or recipes in this book and follow all safety guidelines.

Printed in China by Toppan Leefung Printing Ltd. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Names: Solomon, Karen, author. Title: Cured meat, smoked fish & pickled eggs : recipes and techniques for preserving protein-packed foods / Karen Solomon. Other titles: Cured meat, smoked fish and pickled eggs Description: North Adams, MA : Storey Publishing, [2018] | Includes bibliographical references and index. Identifiers: LCCN 2017061051 (print) | LCCN 2018011530 (ebook) | ISBN 9781612129044 (ebook) | ISBN 9781612129037 (pbk. : alk. paper) Subjects: LCSH: Smoked foods. | Cooking (Smoked foods) | Meat—Preservation. | Canning and preserving. | LCGFT: Cookbooks. Classification: LCC TX835 (ebook) | LCC TX835 .S65 2018 (print) | DDC 641.6/16—dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017061051

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CONTENTS

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Introduction, 1

1: TECHNIQUES & HOW-TOS, 7

2: BEEF, LAMB & GAME, 35

Pickling, 9

Basic Beef Jerky, 36

Hot-Water-Bath Canning, 12

Sour Orange Beef Jerky, 38

Pressure Canning, 14

Miso-Yogurt Beef Jerky, 42

Dry Curing, 17

Big Game Jerky, 44

Brine Curing, 20

Meat Energy Bars, 47

Drying, 22

Pemmican (Native American Dried

Freezing, 26

Fruit and Meat), 49

Fat Curing, 27

Biltong (South African Dried Meat), 51

Hot Smoking, 29

Khlea (Moroccan Preserved Lamb), 55

Cold Smoking, 32

Corned Beef, 57 Pastrami, 60

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3: PORK, 63

4: POULTRY, 93

Ham, 64

Chicken Stock, 94

Czech Pickled Hot Dogs, 66

Duck Confit, 96

Bacon Extraordinaire, 68 Cook It: Bacon, Roasted Tomato, and Onion Spread, 71 Salt Pork, 73 Cook It: Boston Baked Beans, 75 Pork Rinds, 77 Pork Belly Confit, 80 Rousong (Pork Floss), 82 New Orleans–Style Pickle Meat, 84 Cook It: Red Beans and Rice with Pickle Meat, 85 Bak Kwa (Chinese-Style Dried Pork), 87 Coppiette (Roman-Style Dried Pork), 90

Cook It: Duck Confit, Endive, and Apple Salad, 98 Duck Breast Prosciutto, 101 Smoked Turkey Leg, 103 Thanksgiving Turkey Jerky, 104

5: BIG FISH, 107

6: SMALL FISH, 129

Cold-Cured Gravlax, 110

Pickled Herring, 130

Hot-Smoked Fish, 113

Creamed Herring, 131

Cook It: Killer Smoked Fish Salad, 114 Bacalao (Salted and Dried Cod), 115

Cook It: Baked Chopped Herring, 132 Pickled Shrimp, 134 Cured Anchovies or Sardines, 136

Cook It: Bacalao, Tomato, and Olive Stew, 116 Canned Salmon, 118 Cook It: Salmon Croquettes, 120 Salmon Jerky, 122 Canned Tuna, 124 Cook It: The Best Tuna Salad, 126

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7: EGGS & DAIRY, 139

8: BEANS & NUTS, 161

Preserved Egg Yolks, 140

Tofu Jerky, 162

Salt-Brined Eggs, 142

Pickled Tofu, 164

Slightly Smoky Soy Sauce Eggs, 143

Sake-Brined Tofu, 166

Curry Pickled Eggs, 144

Canned Beans, 167

Beet Pickled Eggs, 146

Pickled Garbanzo Beans, 169

Simple White Cheese, 147

Protein-Punched Three-Bean Salad, 171

Czech Pickled Cheese, 149

Edamame Pesto, 173

Preserved Herbed Feta, 153

Black Bean and Corn Relish, 174

Yogurt, 154

Honey-Preserved Pistachios, 176

Dried Yogurt Bombs, 156

Thanks, 178

Frozen Walnut-Yogurt Pops, 157

Sources and Resources, 179

Banana-Yogurt “Pappadams”, 158

Metric Conversion Charts, 181 Index, 182

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INTRODUCTION

F

ood preservation most commonly conjures images of Ball jars packed with vegetables and fruit. Pickles and jam continue to enjoy tremendous popularity, and home cooks love to fill a jar

for fun and flavor. But while pickled cucumbers and dried strawberries are delicious and refreshing, my quest for preserving real and satisfying food that’s ready to make into a meal at a moment’s notice has pushed me toward new food preservation frontiers. Even in my urban apartment kitchen, I have all of the space and tools required to craft preserved high-protein snacks and starters, as well as satisfying, full meals. All food eaters are welcome in this quest, but particularly if you’re paleo, gluten-free, or dairy-free, in these pages you will find bold flavors that meet your dietary demands. What goes best with some of your favorite preserves like chutney and mustard? Beef, fish, duck, eggs, beans, nuts, and all of their delicious, portable, protein-­packed flexibility once they have been pickled, brined, cured, smoked, and dried. Rather than seeking out the chalky, badly flavored protein powders of yesterday’s bodybuilders, I am a protein seeker who loves food

with real ingredients, and I’m willing to put in some kitchen time to craft something satisfying and delicious. For the most part, this book avoids using ingredients that are supplements or powders. I really prefer the taste of actual food. This book is for home cooks who continue to value the sweat equity of their own food, made to savor and share, with ingredients that they trust and select themselves. (While provenance is important for cauliflower, for many it is far more important for sustainable fish, poultry, and meat.) Bragging rights for pickled

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tomatoes is one thing. Boasting about your own pickled fish is a step beyond. Whether it’s beef or tofu, coppiette or bak kwa, your source for delicious protein snacking is in these pages.

PROTEIN BY THE NUMBERS

According to the United States Department of Agriculture, protein-­rich foods supply B vitamins like niacin, thiamin, ribo­flavin, and B6, along with vitamin E, iron, zinc, and magnesium. Protein is a building block for bones, ­muscles, cartilage, skin, and blood, as well as for enzymes, hormones, and vitamins. The USDA recommends a variety of foods for obtaining protein, including lean red meat for iron and 8 ounces of seafood weekly to help reduce the risk of heart disease. And though you have to dig a bit deeper for the information, they also recommend a varied protein intake that includes not just meat, poultry, and fish but also dairy, legumes, and nuts. How much protein do you need per day? Good question. It depends who you are and what you do. Pregnant women and nursing mothers need more protein, while the elderly and inactive require less. For general information,

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see the chart below. For specific information on your dietary needs, consult with your doctor or a nutritionist. The recipes in this book are organized by type of protein (meat and game, poultry, fish, beans and nuts, and so on), and ingredients were selected based on the biggest protein bang for the buck.

USDA DAILY PROTEIN RECOMMENDATIONS Children

Girls

Boys

Women

Men

2–3 years old

2 servings

4–8 years old

4 servings

9–13 years old

5 servings

14–18 years old

5 servings

9–13 years old

5 servings

14–18 years old

6½ servings

19–30 years old

5½ servings

31–50 years old

5 servings

51+ years old

5 servings

19–30 years old

6½ servings

31–50 years old

6 servings

51+ years old

5½ servings

One serving equals 1 ounce of meat, poultry, or fish, one egg, ½ ounce of nuts or seeds, 1 tablespoon of peanut butter, or ¼ cup of cooked beans or tofu. Chart adapted from Daily Protein Foods Table, ChooseMyPlate.gov, U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Introduction

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Anchovies are first salted, then cured in vinegar, then preserved in oil.

Meat and poultry. This is often the first food group that comes to mind when most people think of protein. Meat protein is an easy sell for those who eat meat — it’s flavorful, fast to cook, and delicious. If you’re a hunter, this is an especially alluring category because of the hands-on effort involved in skipping the butcher shop. There are many delicious, protein-packed reasons to choose meat. Lean, cooked beef and bison have about 9 grams of protein per ounce. Venison has about 10 grams.

Lean pork has about 8 grams per ounce, as does the same weight of boneless, skinless chicken breast or turkey breast. Skinless duck breast, however, is a bird of a different feather at about 7 grams of protein per ounce. Bacon might not be the meat you should reach for every day, but it does have about 3 protein grams per slice. While there are a lot of great reasons to eat meat, there are also many reasons not to. Some consider it unethical. And particularly when it comes to larger beasts, like cows, it’s not the most environmentally friendly choice either. And it’s expensive. But if you are eating meat, I definitely recommend sustainable choices — grass-fed beef, hormone- and antibiotic-­free — if it’s available and affordable. Fish. An ounce of fresh tuna is

very low in calories and has almost as much protein as beef — 8 grams per cooked ounce. Salmon and sardines are also great choices for protein content: 1 ounce of steamed or poached fish has 7 grams of protein. Pickled herring has about 4 grams per ounce. In general, the smaller the fish, the more sustainable it is as a food choice. I strongly suggest you eat fish with an eye toward ocean preservation, and the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program is an excellent resource for food fish choices.

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Dairy. Cheeses vary, but feta

cheese, used in some of the recipes here, has about 4 protein grams per ounce (cheddar has about 7 grams). Unsweetened whole-milk yogurt has 8 grams of protein per cup. And our friend the egg rolls in at 6 grams per large orb.

Legumes. What I find most interest-

ing are the vegan sources of protein, of which there are many, including some surprises. Legumes, such as beans, are a wonderful source for protein. Black beans, chickpeas, and kidney beans have as much protein as beef per ½-cup serving, plus some nice fiber as a bonus. Tofu, made from soybeans, has 2 grams per ounce. Edamame, the soybeans from which tofu is made, have 12 grams per cup.

Nuts and seeds. Peanuts have

8 grams of protein per ounce (and peanut butter has 7); almonds have 6, cashews have 5, and walnuts have 4. You probably knew nuts had protein, but did you know that pumpkin seeds have 9 grams of protein per ounce? Sesame seeds also add a little somethin’ somethin’ at 3 grams per ounce. Flax, hemp, and chia seeds, trendy as they are, have 3.5, 5, and 2.5 grams of protein, respectively, in just 1 tablespoon. Throw them into a smoothie! Whether you’re a carnivore, an herbivore, or an omnivore, your kitchen is awash in ingredients for make-ahead protein snacks.

Adding edamame to a three-bean salad gives it a delicious protein punch.

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1

TECHNIQUES & HOW-TOs

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H

ow do you preserve food? Short answer: remove the moisture, which is prone to rot, and/or keep the food away from air to protect it from the natural organisms that will cause it to

decompose. Both have the same general result: prolonging the food’s shelf life. When you start learning about food preservation, you will need to decide which method is the most delicious way to prolong (and ideally enhance) what you’re hoping to store long-term. There are the methods that have been used to preserve food for all of recorded history, and then there are the tried-and-true scientifically tested methods of safe food preservation that have been established in the past century or so by scientists and government advisory boards. You seem like a nice enough person. I mean, sure, we all have our flaws, but I would hate for your food-borne illness to be on my conscience. None of the recipes, as written here, will allow the food to spoil. But some people like to eat raw oysters and raw cheese; others don’t. Some people dump their milk on its date of expiration; others smell it to determine if it has gone off. I will give you all angles on a food preservation technique and its level of risk, both the way it has been done for centuries and the way that modern scientific analysis says is the absolute safest. It is up to you to decide your level of confidence in preservation techniques in the kitchen. Note that the hunter or farmer starting with fresh meat needs to take some extra precautions. If you’re starting with pork or wild game you’ve prepared yourself, the meat must be treated before it is cured to kill the

Trichinella parasite. To treat the meat, the National Center for Home Food Preservation recommends freezing meat cut thinner than 6 inches at 0ºF (–18ºC) or below for at least 30 days. Note that this requires a subzero freezer. A regular home freezer does not get cold enough for the job. Following is a breakdown of all of the various techniques used throughout the book.

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Techniques & How-Tos

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PICKLING Pickling is the act of preserving a food by replacing its water content with acid, the most common one being vinegar. The process by which the acidic solution replaces the water inside a food is called plasmolysis. Think about a wilted, mushy cucumber forgotten inside your refrigerator drawer. It decomposes because of its water content. Bacteria, molds, and yeast all need water to thrive. In nature, rotting food is a good thing, as it returns plant matter to the soil quickly so that it can become the compost required to grow more plants, which in turn can be eaten or fed to animals. But if that water is replaced with an acidic solution to deter decomposing microbes, it becomes a pickle. Science! Too much acid and the pickled food becomes too “hot” and biting; this is good for preservation, but bad for flavor. Too little and the food won’t properly cure. You want the right amount of acid that balances flavor and preservation, but the “right amount” varies based on the type of acid used and the moisture content of the food that is being preserved. Cooks usually make a brine, a liquid solution of an acid (such as distilled white vinegar, white wine vinegar, apple cider vinegar, or red wine vinegar) plus water to tame its heat and potency. It is possible to pickle with strong, big-­flavored vinegars like balsamic, but very often the flavor can be overpowering. And while it is frowned upon by the National Center for Home Food Preservation, fresh lemon juice or

fresh lime juice can also be a delicious pickling acid for refrigerator pickles, either on its own or in tandem with vinegar. (The center recommends bottled citrus juice for its stability and its known acid content, but its flavor leaves much to be desired. There are over 50 varieties of fresh lemons available around the country at different times of year, but all with different acid levels, and some, like Meyer lemons, aren’t acidic enough for food preservation.) As a rule, don’t expect pickles preserved with citrus juice to keep as long as those preserved with vinegar. It is a good idea to add some salt to the brine for flavor, but also because it helps pull the moisture out of the food (speeding the process of the acidic conversion). It

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isn’t necessary, but it’s also very delicious to add some sugar to a brine — not enough to make the pickle sweet, but just to balance the acid. More often than not, cooks add other flavoring agents to the brine as well, such as garlic, ginger, chile pepper, or fresh or dried herbs. The sky’s the limit! As a general rule of thumb, a tightly packed pint jar of food to be pickled usually contains 2 to 3 ounces each of water and vinegar, 1 teaspoon of kosher salt, and 1 tablespoon of sugar. This is my usual basic brine ratio, and I take it from there. Highly acidic vinegar pickles (those with a pH of 4.6 or below) can be stored in the refrigerator nearly indefinitely. Over time, the texture of the pickled food may degrade or soften, but if kept cold and beneath the brine line, the pickle will remain preserved. Vinegar-pickled vegetables, but not meat or fish, are also suitable for hot-water-bath canning (see page 12).

Equipment Needed for Pickling You don’t need any special equipment to make quick pickles or those stored in the refrigerator. Canned, shelf-stable pickles are another matter. Jump ahead to the canning section on page 12. A canning jar is a good choice because it’s heatproof and allows you to see whether the food is below the brine line, but any container that’s free of odors and has a lid will suffice.

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Pickling Step-by-Step 1. Chop and cook (if desired) the food that you are pickling. Smaller pieces of food pickle faster than larger ones. Razor-thin pieces can pickle in as little as 30 minutes. Dense, large food pieces are usually best after 3 to 5 days of pickling.

Onions — used either alone or as a complement to other ingredients — lend great flavor to pickles. The thinner the slice, the faster your food will cure.

2. Pack the food into a jar large enough to hold it and the brine to cover it. 3. Make a brine: Combine water, vinegar, and salt, plus any sugar and flavorings you might be using, in a saucepan. Bring the brine to a boil. 4. Pour the brine (including any solids) over the food in the jar. Cover the food with at least half an inch of brine at the top. 5. Screw the lid onto the jar and let it cool to room temperature, then store it in the refrigerator.

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What about Fermentation? Fermentation is old-school food preservation; it’s the stuff that fed our ancestors across the globe for millennia, back when vinegar was a luxury item out of reach for most cooks. The flavor of fermented food is like no other: swampy, sour, and savory. Fermentation encourages the growth of “good” microorganisms and simultaneously prevents the growth of spoilage-causing microorganisms. While vinegar pickles douse the food in a sea of acidity all at once to prevent spoilage, fermented food gradually acidifies and, thus, preserves. You’ll find a recipe for yogurt (fermented dairy) in this book, but that’s the only one that uses the fermentation technique. Fermented meat, poultry, and fish are not as common in modern Western cooking as fermented dairy or fermented vegetables, fruits, and grains. That’s because fermented animal proteins tend to have strong flavors — often more than the North American palate can bear. For fermentation to occur, you need a clean environment. Ceramic crocks are popular but expensive; glass or foodgrade plastic containers without any hidden cracks are far more affordable. Widemouthed canning jars also work really well. Any filled jars should be kept away from direct sunlight. In the case of

fruits and vegetables, salt is added, either with water to make a brine or mixed into the vegetables to help extrude their natural liquid, and then a weight is set on top to keep the pickles-to-be beneath the brine line. In the case of meat, it is rubbed with salt and curing salt on the outside and then left to ferment in a breezy, cool environment. Novice fermenters should rely on tested recipes to make certain they are curing safely.

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HOT-WATER-BATH CANNING This preservation method results in vacuum-sealed, air-locked jars that are shelf stable for up to 1 year and do not require refrigeration. The only foods safe for hot-water-bath canning, however, are those that are high in acid: fruits, fruit juices, jams, jellies, fruit spreads, some salsas, tomatoes with added acid, pickles, relishes, vinegars, and some chutneys, sauces, and condiments. In this book, the pickled beans are safe for water-bath canning. Unpickled beans must be pressure canned.

A canning funnel is a great tool for preventing brine splatter.

Equipment Needed for HotWater-Bath Canning • Clean canning jars (make sure there are no cracks or nicks on the rim) • New canning lids and threaded bands • A canning pot, or any heavy-bottomed pot wide enough to hold jars in a single layer and deep enough that you can cover filled jars with water by at least 2 inches • Canning tongs • Canning funnel (optional) • Canning rack (optional, but recommended)

Be sure there is enough water in your canning pot to cover your jars by at least 2 inches.

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Hot-Water-Bath Canning Step-by-Step 1. Wash and rinse the jars well, checking them for nicks and cracks, especially around the rim. Discard any imperfect jars. If you will be processing your filled jars

for 10 minutes or longer, you do not need to sterilize them. Skip to step 3. 2. If you will be processing your filled jars for 10 minutes or less, you must pre-sterilize your jar. Fit the rack into the canning pot and fill it with the empty jars and enough water to cover the jars by at least 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil, then start the clock. Boil the jars for a full 10 minutes to sterilize them. Then turn off the heat, keep the pot covered, and let the jars sit in the hot water while you prepare the recipe. 3. Follow the recipe instructions for preparing the food. If you sterilized your jars, just before you’re ready to fill them, remove the jars from the canning pot with the canning tongs. Save that hot water! Fill the jars with the solids up to the “shoulder,” or curved part; use a funnel, if you like, to keep the job neat. Add

Techniques & How-Tos

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enough liquid brine to cover the solids completely, leaving ½ inch of headspace (air) at the top of the jar. Gently stir the contents of the jars in an up-and-down motion with a clean butter knife or chopstick to remove any air bubbles. 4. Dip a clean kitchen towel into the hot water and use it to gently wipe the rims of the jars to remove any brine that may have splattered. Place a flat lid on top of each filled jar, wax ring down and shiny side up. Screw the bands onto the jars gently, only as tightly as your fingertips will allow (don’t screw it on snugly). 5. Once all the jars are filled, use the canning tongs to place them back into the pot, standing them straight up in the rack. Cover the pot and bring the water to a wild, rapid boil. Start the timer on the processing time for your recipe. You will see little air bubbles being released from the jars. This is good. While the jars process, line your countertop with a kitchen towel. 6. When the jars have finished processing, remove the lid from the pot, turn off the heat, and let the jars sit for 5 minutes before removing them with canning tongs and placing them on the towel-lined countertop. You will likely hear ­little pings and pops coming from the jars — that’s the sound of the lids vacuum-sealing into place.

7. Let the jars cool for at least a couple of hours or overnight. Test the lids for their seal by gently pressing the center of each lid. If there’s no give, the jar is sealed. Properly sealed jars can be dried, labeled with the contents and the date, and stored in the pantry for up to 1 year. If the jar has not sealed (meaning the lid bounces back when you press on the center), store the jar in the refrigerator. Notes: During storage, if the lids

pop open or if the food doesn’t look or smell right, by all means toss the food in the compost. However, if you’re just nervous about the safety of your canned food, before eating, cook the contents of the jar for 10 minutes at a very rapid boil to kill any potential pathogens. Or remove the lid from the jar and place it in a 350°F (180°C) oven for at least 30 minutes, or until the food reaches an internal temperature of 185°F (85°C). If you live at a higher altitude, you must adjust your canning accordingly. At 1,000 feet above sea level and higher, water boils at temperatures lower than 212°F (100°C). For safe canning, add 5 minutes of processing time for elevations of up to 3,000 feet, 10 minutes for those up to 6,000 feet, 15 minutes for up to 8,000 feet, and 20 minutes for up to 10,000 feet.

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PRESSURE CANNING Pressure canning gets the water hotter than boiling temperature (up to 240°F/115°C, rather than 212°F/100°C). This über-scalding temperature is able to kill the bacteria that is more likely to grow in low-acid foods like non-vinegared vegetables, soups, stews, stocks, meats, poultry, and seafood. Use this method to can fish, beans, and stock. Pressure canning has a lot in common with hot-water-bath canning, but it requires a pressure canning pot, which is a large stovetop or countertop appliance specifically designed for high-pressure heating. There are two types of pressure canners: dial gauge and weighted gauge. Dial gauge canners indicate the pressure inside the canner, but you must monitor them constantly and control them by adjusting the heat. Weighted gauge canners allow you to set the pressure levels on the canner, and they automatically release any pressure above the desired amount. Dial gauge canners are recommended for those living above sea level who need to make adjustments for altitude. Note that dial gauge canners must be ­calibrated for accuracy once a year.

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Equipment Needed for Pressure Canning • Pressure canner • Clean canning jars (make sure there are no cracks or nicks on the rim) • New canning lids and threaded bands • Canning tongs • Canning funnel (optional)

Pressure Canning Step-by-Step 1. Prepare the recipe according to the instructions. 2. Fill the jars per the recipe instructions. Use a funnel, if you like, for neater filling, and leave about 1 inch of headspace at the top of the jar. Gently stir the contents of the jar in an up-and-down motion with a clean butter knife to remove air bubbles.

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Pressure-can your own homemade chicken stock. It’s the best!

3. Dip a clean kitchen towel into hot water and use it to gently wipe the rim of each jar to remove any food that may have splattered. Place a lid on top of each filled jar, wax ring down and shiny side up. Screw the bands onto the jars somewhat tight, but not supertight. 4. Once all the jars are filled, place them on the rack of the pressure canner, standing them upright. Check the water level of the pressure canner and make sure it has

the amount of water recommended by the manufacturer (usually about 3 inches). 5. Lock the pressure canner lid in place but leave the vent open. Turn the heat to high and allow steam to escape through the vent pipe until you see it billowing out in a steady stream. Once you see a strong stream of steam, start the clock. Let the canner blow steam (ha!) for 10 minutes to ensure that there is no air left inside it. Then place the

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counterweight or weighted gauge on the vent pipe, or close the vent following your canner manufacturer’s instructions. 6. Adjust the heat as necessary to achieve and maintain the recommended pounds of pressure for the recipe. Start the clock on processing once the right pressure has been reached. Process the jars for the time recommended in the recipe. Be sure to keep an eye (or ear, as a weighted gauge canner can be loud) on your pressure gauge to make certain the pressure is steady. If the canner falls below the recommended pressure, bring it back up to the right pressure and restart the clock from the beginning. (Too much pressure is safe, but it can result in mushy food.) 7. Once the processing is finished, turn off the heat. Let the canner cool down to zero pounds of pressure before opening up the vent — again, follow your manufacturer’s instructions. Newer canners will not open until they have fully depressurized. Then let the canner rest, vent open, for 10 minutes. Line a countertop with a towel. Carefully lift the lid and use your canning tongs to move the jars to the towel. 8. Let the jars cool for a couple of hours or overnight. Test the lids for their seal by gently pressing the

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center of each lid. If there’s no give, the jar is sealed. If it is properly sealed, you can dry it, label the contents and the date, and store it in the pantry for up to 1 year. If a jar has not sealed (the lid bounces back when you press on the center), store it in the refrigerator and eat its contents within a week. Notes: If at any time during stor-

age the lids pop open or if the food doesn’t look or smell right, by all means toss the food in the compost. However, if you’re just nervous about the safety of your canned food, before eating, cook the contents of the jar for 10 minutes at a very rapid boil to kill any potential pathogens. Or remove the lid of the jar and place the jar in a 350°F (180°C) oven for at least 30 minutes, or until the food reaches an internal temperature of 185°F (85°C). If you live at a higher altitude, you must adjust your canner accordingly. At 1,000 feet above sea level and higher, water boils at temperatures lower than 212°F (100°C). For safe canning, add more pressure: On a dial gauge canner, for 2,000 to 4,000 feet, add 1 pound; for 4,000 to 6,000 feet, add 2 pounds; for 6,000 to 8,000 feet, add 3 pounds. For a weighted gauge canner, just use 15 pounds of pressure for any recipe that requires 10.

Cool your jars on a towel-lined counter.

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DRY CURING Dry curing involves rubbing or blanketing food with salt (and sometimes sugar and/or other spices) to pull out moisture as it dries. And oh, the deliciousness it can produce! This is the most common method for preparing bacon, some kinds of jerky, and also cured charcuterie like dry sausage and salami. In general, the resulting food is usually fairly salty in flavor and firm and rigid in texture. It can be eaten on its own or fried in slices, and chunks of it can be used to flavor vegetables, potatoes, stews, and more. Larger hunks can take weeks or months to cure; smaller pieces can cure in days or hours. Traditionally, dry-cured foods were rubbed with salt and then left in a cool, dark place with good airflow. Those looking to cure large cuts will need a cool basement or a dedicated dry-curing box, but we modern food adventurers have something far more efficient than a cave: a refrigerator! It’s cool, dark, away from predators (save for wily midnight snackers), and quite arid; the refrigerator is a wonderfully dry place to help dry-cured food release its moisture and avoid harmful bacteria. The salt is where the action is, as it pulls the water out of the cells of the food. And salt inhibits the growth of harmful microbes. The amount of salt in dry-cured foods should be about 3 percent of the weight of the food. For example, for every 100 grams of meat or fish, you need 3 grams of salt by weight.

Not everyone has a kitchen scale, and math is hard for many of us, so the best rule is this: for every pound of meat, use about 1 tablespoon of kosher salt for a dry cure. Some dry-cured foods are just buried in a mountain of salt, and sometimes sugar is added to help balance out the sharpness of the salt. Note that all of this salt is not absorbed into the flavor of the finished food — that would be unbearably salty! A blanket of salt just provides extra protection from disease-­causing bacteria and sops up a lot of the liquid that a dried protein can exude as it cures. Note that you should not reuse or eat any salt left over from dry curing. For meats dry-curing in the refrigerator for longer than 1 week, or for cures happening outside the refrigerator, mix sodium nitrite and/or sodium nitrate (also known as pink salt, InstaCure #1, or InstaCure #2) into the salt. This pink curing salt helps prevent

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spoiling, and as an added bonus, it helps keep the meat pink after curing and/or cooking. For cures that take longer than 1 week in the fridge, or for meat (like bacon) that will be cooked before being eaten, the National Center for Home Food Preservation recommends using InstaCure #1, which contains sodium nitrite and salt. For long cures outside the fridge that aren’t usually cooked before being eaten, such as a Virginia ham, the NCHFP recommends InstaCure #2, which contains sodium nitrite, sodium nitrate, and salt. In either case, use 1 ounce for every 25 pounds of meat, or 1 scant teaspoon of cure for every 5 pounds of meat. All of the drycured recipes in this book are done in the fridge in less than 1 week, so pink salt isn’t necessary for safety, though it may be used for appearance. Note that this specialty item can be tricky to locate. Find it at better butcher shops, or order it online (see Resources, page 179).

Equipment Needed for Dry Curing • Salt and curing salt (if using), plus any other spices or flavorings • A high-rimmed dish to catch any liquid expressed during the curing process • Plastic wrap, ziplock bags, or an airtight lid to keep the curing meat or fish moist

Dry Curing Step-by-Step 1. Trim and cut the meat according to the recipe instructions. 2. Combine the salt, curing salt if using, and any sugar and spices in a large rectangular baking dish or pan. Place the meat in the dish and rub the cure into the meat, spreading it evenly. (For thin and delicate fish, press them into the cure.) 3. Tuck the rubbed meat into a ­gallon or oversized ziplock plastic bag in a single layer and then lay the meat flat in a rimmed dish (in case any liquids escape from the bag). Or place the meat directly in the dish and cover it tightly with plastic wrap. Place it in the refrigerator and let cure according to the recipe instructions, massaging the liquids that will amass or flipping it as the recipe mandates.

Press the salt into the meat or fish for dry curing.

4. Inspect your meat after the requisite curing time. It should be firm to the touch all over, like a welldone steak. If the flesh still feels spongy and soft in spots, sprinkle it evenly with a little extra salt and let it cure a little longer. Check it again after 1 or 2 days. 5. Once the meat is fully cured, discard any solid spices. Brush off the meat or fish or rinse it well, following the recipe’s instructions. Some recipes keep the cure in place.

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BRINE CURING The love child of marinating and dry curing is brine curing, and it is what gives us corned beef, pastrami, and wet-cured ham, to name a few. In brine curing, meat or fish is dunked into a salt and water solution, which is often flavored with sugar and other spices. The food is submerged below the brine line while it cures. The resulting food is quite juicy and firm. Brined foods take on a well-rounded salty flavor (though they are not as salty as dry-cured foods), and they are usually cooked completely before being eaten. Traditionally, brine-cured food sat in a cool, dark location — in a cellar, for example — but in the modern day, it’s safer to store brining food in the refrigerator. It can take several days to a week to complete the process of osmosis (whereby the saltwater penetrates the cells of the food), depending on the size of the food to be cured. The meat or fish takes on the flavors of the salt and whatever else is in the brine. Brine curing requires a large food-safe bucket or container with a lid that can accommodate the size of the meat and enough brining solution to surround it on all sides. This technique also requires tremendous refrigerator space to accommodate the bucket for a week. (I’ve found that brining a ham or a corned beef is a great excuse to clean out the fridge.) As with dry curing, the salt is the most important thing, as it pulls out the water from the cells of the food and inhibits the growth

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of harmful microbes. The general rule for brine curing is about 1 cup of kosher salt for every gallon of water. What matters most is that there’s enough brine to surround the meat completely. A small hunk of brisket might need only 1 gallon of solution. A whole hog’s leg may need three times that amount. When brining meats, mix in sodium nitrite (also known as pink salt or InstaCure #1) with the salt. This pink curing salt gives the kosher salt a boost, helping to prevent harmful bacteria growth (and as an added bonus, it helps keep the meat pink after curing and/or cooking). Add 1 scant teaspoon of pink curing salt to your brine of 1 gallon or more. Just as you would for pickles, you can add other ingredients to the brine as well. I usually flavor pretty aggressively because the brine tends to mute the flavors. I often reach for a whole onion or several crushed garlic cloves,

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a large handful of fresh herbs, or the zest of a lemon or orange. I’m also a big fan of adding sugar to wet brines — not because it makes the meat sweet, but because it balances its savory flavor. While the curing process is happening, remember that this raw meat and all of its liquid can be quite harmful if ingested. Cleanliness is a must! After the curing process is complete, all of the flavoring agents should be discarded. If you’re planning to smoke the fish or meat, it should be dried thoroughly, until it’s sticky to the touch.

water on top of a plate) on top of the meat to keep it underwater. 3. Cover the container and place it in the refrigerator for the length of time specified in the recipe. Stir the container once every day or two to distribute the flavors. 4. When the meat is cured, drain it and discard all the solid flavoring ingredients. Cook the food according to the recipe instructions.

Use an inverted plate to weight curing meat below the brine line.

Equipment Needed for Brine Curing • Food-safe bucket or container with a lid (be sure it’s large enough to hold the food and brine) that can fit inside your refrigerator • Kosher salt • Sodium nitrite (InstaCure #1)

Brine Curing Step-by-Step 1. Combine the brine ingredients from the recipe in a food-safe bucket or container. 2. Add the meat or fish and make sure it is completely submerged in the brine. If necessary, place a weight (or a canning jar full of

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DRYING Humans have been successfully drying food around the fire, in the sun, or on hot rocks for centuries. But in the realm of modern food safety, even if you live in a terrifically hot and dry climate, drying food outdoors has its own government-recommended parameters. In modern times, when safety trumps food security for most of us, the best choice is to dry food either in the oven or in a food dehydrator. Dried food, also called dehydrated food, is most common within these pages in jerky form, but it is also the technique behind Dried Yogurt Bombs (page 156) and more. Dried food is portable, flavorful, well salted for flavor and preservation, and ripped with a toothsome, chewy texture. While it can easily be tossed into a backpack or a picnic basket for later eating, it’s safest to keep the whole stash in an airtight bag in the refrigerator between snacks. Flavor combinations and permutations abound, as do the cuts of protein that can be dried, from beef to poultry to fish to venison to tofu. Only lean cuts are suitable for drying, as meat cures but fat will go rancid over time. Some dried meat traditions feature ground meat, but overall this is not recommended, because of its higher incidence of contamination and its fat content. The Bak Kwa (page 87) is the only dried meat recipe here that starts with ground meat, but it should be grilled or cooked thoroughly before

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being eaten to kill any possible pathogens.

Equipment Needed for Oven Drying • Two large metal wire-grid racks (such as cooling racks) • Two large rimmed baking sheets • Parchment paper or silicone baking mats for both sheets • Cooking oil to prevent sticking

Equipment Needed for Drying in a Food Dehydrator • Food dehydrator

Food Preparation 1. It can be helpful, though it’s not essential, to freeze the fish or meat for 30 minutes to make it easier to slice thinly. Slice the food with a very sharp knife. Thinner, smaller pieces will dry more quickly, and uniform pieces will all dry in about

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Freezing meat for 20 to 30 minutes firms it, making it easier to cut thin, even slices.

the same amount of time. For chewier jerky, slice the meat with the grain; for more tender jerky, slice the meat against the grain. 2. Using a small knife, remove all traces of fat. Don’t skip this step. 3. Lay the trimmed meat between two layers of paper towels or clean kitchen towels and roll them up tightly to remove as much moisture as you can. 4. Dry-cure, marinate, or salt the food (with additional flavors) according to the recipe instructions.

Oven Drying Step-by-Step The best thing about drying food in the oven is that you probably already have one. You don’t need

a convection oven, but they are excellent for dehydrating. If you don’t have a convection oven, it’s best to prop open your oven door to improve air circulation during drying. 1. Position one rack in the middle of the oven and one on the b ­ ottom. Preheat the oven to its lowest setting (or according to the recipe instructions). 2. Line two large rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper, then place a wire rack over each sheet. Lightly rub a little oil on each rack to prevent sticking. 3. Lay the prepared food in a single layer without touching on each wire rack. The slices can be pretty close together, but leave just enough room for air to flow in between.

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4. Place the baking sheets in the preheated oven. If you don’t have a convection oven, wedge the oven door open with a wooden spoon handle. 5. Follow the recipe directions for drying times. Halfway through, spin the pans and switch their places to promote even drying. Start checking the food at the low end of the time range in the recipe instructions. Your jerky is ready when you’re able to bend a piece and it breaks, showing that the jerky has cooked all the way through. Remove the pans from the oven. Thoroughly dried jerky should break when you bend it and look “cooked” when split.

6. If your food is sweating beads of released fat, blot it thoroughly on both sides with paper towels while it’s still warm.

Using a Food Dehydrator Step-by-Step Most food dehydrators are very simple machines — you stack ventilated trays of food inside and a fan blows warm, dry air across them — but they take up a lot of cabinet space when not in use. Follow your manufacturer’s instructions for drying meat and fish. The recommended temperature for food safety is 160°F (70°C), but thicker foods can be dried at lower temperatures and then heated until the internal temperature reaches 160°F (70°C) after the drying process.

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1. Lay the prepared meat flat on the rack. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly. 2. Dry the meat at the temperature and for the duration specified in the recipe. Times will vary depending on your machine, the weather, and the thickness of your meat. Start checking the food at the low end of the time range in the recipe instructions. Your jerky is ready when you’re able to bend a piece and it breaks, showing that the jerky has cooked all the way through. Remove the food from the dehydrator. 3. If you have dried meat or fish below 160°F (70°C), preheat the oven to 275°F (140°C). Line two large rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper, then place a wire rack over each sheet. 4. Place the dried food on the wire racks, then place the baking sheets in the oven. For dried meat thinner than ¼ inch (like jerky), heat for 10 minutes in the preheated oven. Thicker strips require longer heating. Remove the pans from the oven. 5. If your food is sweating beads of released fat, blot it thoroughly with paper towels while it’s still warm.

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Food to be dried should be thin and laid flat, with space between pieces to allow air to circulate for even drying.

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FREEZING You know this appliance intimately, I’m sure. We don’t do a lot of freezing in this book, save for the Frozen Walnut-Yogurt Pops (page 157) and the Edamame Pesto (page 173), but of course this is a very helpful and modern way to preserve protein — particularly if you don’t have a pressure canner, as it’s also a great way to store beans. It’s essential that you select the right containers for freezing. Plastic is a better choice than glass, as things tend to bang around a lot in the freezer. For liquids, reach for food-safe plastic containers with tight-fitting lids. Fill them nearly all the way, leaving about an inch of headspace at the top. Too much air space will allow your food to develop freezer burn; too little space and the natural expansion of food as it freezes will force that lid to pop off. You can precook dried beans and freeze them, covered in their brine, in reusable pint containers (not canning jars). Wellwrapped bacon or jerky will keep for many moons in the freezer (at least 6 months). For best results with solid food, squeeze out as much air as possible and double- or triple-wrap the food. Don’t forget to mark the contents and date on each parcel. Plastic wrap is your friend in the freezer. It’s essential that you keep air away from food.

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FAT CURING Preserving food, particularly animal protein, by covering it in fat is an ancient form of retaining food security. Long before there was olive oil, coconut oil, or any other plant-derived cooking fat, someone discovered that the fat from animals, when melted down over the fire and poured over the meat to cover it completely, was a great way to keep away the natural microbes in the air that cause spoilage. While fat has a proclivity to go rancid, if kept in cold quarters (like the refrigerator), it keeps air, microbes, and insects away from meat. In addition to French duck confit, there are other traditional foods that are cured in fat and oil, including Mediterranean olive oil–cured fish and olive oil–cured cheese, and Indian pickles that are preserved with mustard oil. One great thing about fat-cured food is that you actually produce two delicious products: the meat (or fish, or whatever), to be enjoyed on its own or as the base of a dish, and its flavorful fat, useful for frying eggs, sautéing vegetables, and more. Both can be enjoyed on their own or in tandem to lend mad flavor to long-cooked stews and bean pots. (French cassoulet, the quintessential bean dish of duck confit, is a perfect example of the culinary power of fat-cured food.) Fatty, tough cuts of meat, such as duck legs and pork belly, are best suited to fat curing. The meat is first dry-cured in salt and other flavoring, and sometimes even airdried to help reduce its water content and prolong its shelf life.

The fatty meat is then covered in fat completely; for duck confit, the tradition is to use duck fat, but any sort of animal fat or plantbased fat can be used. If you’re using a fat that is hard at room temperature, such as coconut oil, lard, or tallow, it should first be gently heated (either in 10-second bursts in the microwave or by placing the jar in a pot of warm water) until it liquefies so that it can be poured. The meat to be fat-cured is slowly cooked in the fat to release its natural fats and to cook the meat all the way through until tender. The heat helps kill microorganisms and releases moisture from the meat. (Note that some fat-cured foods, such as olives, cheese, or cured sardines, do not require cooking in the fat.)

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After the meat has been cured in the fat, use a knife, chopstick, or other long kitchen tool to pop any air bubbles inside the jar.

After cooking and cooling, the food is packed tightly into a canning jar or other vessel that is able to withstand warm temperatures and won’t retain odors with long-term storage. Other flavoring agents, such as dried herbs, may be added to the jar. Use a jar or container that you can see through, and stir the contents with a knife or chopstick if needed to pop any air bubbles that might form inside. The hot liquid fat is then poured over the food to cover it by at least ½ inch; like wax, the fat creates an anaerobic environment, which helps prevent the food from spoiling. Put tight lids on the jars and keep them cold in the back of the fridge for months. The longer the meat cures in the fat, the more tender it becomes. While fat-cured meat is fully cooked, it is delicious times a thousand to sear the meat before serving to produce a crisp and appetizing exterior.

Equipment Needed for Fat Curing • Several cups of fat

Fat Curing Step-by-Step 1. Cure the meat in salt and other flavorings according to the recipe instructions. 2. If the fat you are using is hard at room temperature, warm it to a liquid state either by putting it in the microwave for 10-second bursts or by placing it in a heat-proof vessel in a pot of warm water. 3. Pour the fat over the meat so that the meat is completely covered. Some fat-cured food items cure and tenderize in the refrigerator. Others require a low, slow poaching in the oven. If required, cook the meat according to the ­recipe instructions. 4. The meat can be cooled and stored in its fat in the baking dish, covered with plastic wrap. Or, to save space in the refrigerator, transfer the meat to a widemouthed quart canning jar and pour the fat over it to cover completely. Use a knife or chopstick to pop any air bubbles inside the jar.

• A rimmed, flat dish for curing • A container with a tight-fitting lid for long-term storage

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5. Use the fat as a cooking oil, or save it for future batches of confit.

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HOT SMOKING If you own a barbecue grill, you already have almost everything you need to smoke meat, fish, nuts, cheese, and more. And if you don’t have a grill, there are still other ways to cheat at crafting smoky food flavor. There are two methods of smoking food: hot smoking and cold smoking. Hot smoking at low (but safe!) temperatures (140°F to 180°F/60°C to 82°C) is the most common method, and it’s the method that I recommend to the home cook. There are several ways to coldsmoke at a much lower temperature (85°F to 100°F/30°C to 38°C), but they are tricky to get right at home (see page 32). In hot smoking, you can buy a smoker and simply follow the manufacturer’s instructions. But if you’re looking to bust out the grill you already own, light a modest amount of charcoal or light a gas grill on low heat, and then add some wood or sawdust to the flames to slowly smolder. You can then place the meat or fish on the grill, as far away from the heat source as possible. The smoke passes over the food until the protein reaches a safe temperature for eating.

Equipment Needed for Hot Smoking • Charcoal or gas grill • Charcoal (I like 100 percent natural hardwood) or gas • Wood chips (soaked in water) or sawdust (I like hickory sawdust)

Hot Smoking Step-by-Step 1. Dry-cure or brine the meat or fish according to the recipe instructions. 2. Remove your meat from its cure or marinade (if using) and pat it dry. The recipe may instruct you to leave it in the refrigerator for a couple of hours or overnight to dry the surface further, until it feels tacky to the touch. Or, if you don’t want the raw meat to contaminate your other refrigerated food, you can leave it under a fan on high speed on the countertop for 30 to 60 minutes, until its surface is somewhat tacky.

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3. Scrub the grill rack with a heavy wire brush and open the grill vents on the bottom and at the top. If you’re using wood chips, place them in water to soak for at least 30 minutes. 4. For charcoal grills, carefully light 5 to 6 cups of charcoal. After about 25 minutes, the coals should be white-hot and not show any visible red flames. For gas grills, light one side of the grill on its lowest setting. Few things on earth are better than meat slowly smoked on the grill.

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5. If you’re using wood sawdust, wrap a couple of cups of sawdust in aluminum foil and poke tiny holes

into the foil so that the smoke from the sawdust can escape. 6. For charcoal grills, once the coals are ready, move them to one side on the bottom of the grill, then place the soaked wood chips or the foil pack of sawdust on top. If you’re using a gas grill and it has a smoking box, use it to hold the wood or sawdust; otherwise, place it on top of the heating element following the grill manufacturer’s instructions. Place the cooking grate in place. 7. Place your meat or fish on the cool (indirect) side of the grill, with

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the thickest part closest to the heat, skin side up (if there’s skin). Put the cover on the grill and position the open vents over the food, thus guiding the smoke over the meat as it escapes. The lid should always be on to trap the smoke inside. Once you see a steady stream of smoke coming out of the top of the grill, close the bottom vents.

8. Smoke the food until the internal temperature reaches what is specified in the recipe. Always test for temperature in the center of the thickest part of the flesh, away from the bone. If your food is going to take more than 2 hours to reach its safe temperature, you will probably need to light new coals after 1½ to 2 hours of smoking. You may also need to add a new dose of wood or sawdust if you’re smoking for more than 4 hours.

Fake Smoking Not everyone has a grill or a backyard, but that doesn’t mean that smoke-flavored food is out of reach. Enter the realm of fake smoking, which is not smoking at all, and it won’t preserve food, but it’s an easy way to add smoke flavor. Place the food on a wire rack over a parchment paper–lined rimmed baking sheet. Use a pastry brush to thinly distribute an extremely small amount (½ teaspoon or so) of liquid smoke over the food (only the stuff that’s real liquid smoke, please, with no additives). A little goes a long way. Slow-roast the meat or fish in a 150°F to 200°F (65°C to 90°C) oven. Depending on the thickness of what you’re cooking, this can take 1 to 3 hours. Voilà! Backyard flavor, minus the backyard.

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COLD SMOKING In cold smoking, food is smoked at a low temperature, between 85°F and 100°F (30°C and 38°C), for 8 to 12 hours at a stretch or more, leaving meat in the “unsafe zone” of 40°F to 140°F (5°C to 60°C) for long periods of time. Meats are usually cured first with preserving salt (like InstaCure #1) to help prevent spoilage, then left to dry completely, either in the refrigerator or under a fan, until the surface of the meat is sticky to the touch. To achieve the low temperatures, either the heat source is kept far away from the food or the smoke is created with very little heat. Cold-smoked foods tend to have a more tender, softer texture than hot-smoked foods. Besides being used for meat, fish, and poultry, this is a very useful method for adding smoke flavor to things like butter and cheese that would just melt in hot smoking. There are a few factors that make this method tricky to get right at home. To produce smoke with very low heat, you can use a couple of different methods. Coals or gas can be burned along with soaked wood chips or wood sawdust in one location (just as you would for hot smoking). But the smoke must then be piped into a cool temperature-­ controlled cold-smoking box far away from the flame. Cold smoking usually requires a lot of space and hardware. The pipes are often laid underground to help the smoke cool. A dedicated low-temperature refrigerator is a favorite cold-­smoking box because it is airtight, insulated, and well-priced and comes complete with racks ready to use. The space and handyman skills needed to build this sort of

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cold-smoking setup aren’t available to all, and while there are a few workarounds, I don’t wholeheartedly recommend them. There are also widely available and fairly inexpensive appliances sold as cold smokers, but most of them don’t truly keep food cold enough for real cold smoking. You don’t necessarily need to dig up your yard to lay underground pipes or buy a cold smoker. It is possible, with reservations and cautions, to just use the grill you already have. There is a family of perforated cold-smoking devices (one popular brand name is the A-MAZE-N smoker) meant to be used atop any kind of grill. You can also make

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a perforated smoker by partially inverting a fine-mesh sieve into a ring with a hole in the middle. I’m not a huge fan of this method for a few reasons. Most of these devices are designed to be used with barbecue pellets — a compressed kibble of sawdust — but the pellets often contain non-wood ingredients and can leave behind an oily residue. It is possible to cold-smoke in some of these devices with the wood dust or sawdust only, but I’ve found it difficult to light and difficult to maintain the smolder of the sawdust alone. If you go this route, keep a frequent eye on your stream of smoke for the entirety of the smoking time. And know that these cold smokers can

raise the internal temperature of the grill as much as 15°F (8°C). Use these cold smokers in the shade to keep the heat from building up. After the cold-smoking process, it’s safest, though not traditional, for meat, poultry, and fish to be heated to a safe internal temperature before being eaten. A meat thermometer is the only sure way to test for doneness and food safety. Fish is ready to eat when it reaches 140°F (60°C) in the center of its thickest part. Meat must reach at least 150°F (65°C), and poultry 160°F (70°C). (Note that for non-­ animal proteins like cheese and nuts that are smoked just for flavor, cold smoking alone is sufficient.) One way to cold smoke at home is to use barbecue pellets in a perforated cold smoker set on a grill.

Techniques & How-Tos 

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2

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O

utback hunters and grocery store gatherers alike are drawn to the succulent flavor and toothsome texture of red meat, from big game to beef. Beef jerky is the poster child of preserved

protein of any kind, but there are many ways to preserve beef, lamb, venison, elk, and buffalo. The large size of these animals speaks volumes about our need to preserve them; one can only eat so much of a giant beast in one sitting, and early humans, I can only imagine, must have tried every possible way to save some of that meat for tomorrow. Preserved meat is frequently enjoyed on its own (in the realm of jerky), as the base of a flavorful dish (I’m in love with khlea as the starter in a lentil pot), or sandwiched between bread for a hearty meal (come to mama, pastrami!). Leaner cuts of meat are best for drying; fattier pieces lend themselves better to fat curing and smoking. All of it is most delicious and made safer with a healthy dose of salt in the mix. In my opinion, the salt is as craveable as the meat. One other safety note: While many preserved-meat traditions have historically been practiced at room temperature, modern scientists insist that preserved meat of any kind should be heated to an internal temperature of 160°F (70°C) before consumption. The hunter or farmer starting with fresh meat needs to take some extra precautions (see page 7). Other than that . . . meat on! Flip the page and meet your meat.

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BASIC BEEF JERKY MAKES

Next to bacon, savory, toothsome beef jerky is one of the gateway

1 pound

preserved meats for beginners or vegetarians who’ve fallen off the wagon. This particular take on America’s new favorite snack food doesn’t

TIME

4–10 hours

require a food dehydrator; jerky dries just as beautifully in the oven. The

METHOD

be willing to slice the meat for you — it’s worth an ask. The other way

Drying (see page 22)

key to making beef jerky is slicing the meat very thinly. Your butcher may to ensure success is to know when it’s done. Look for a dry, shreddedlooking interior on a thick piece — if you find it, you’ve created portable protein gold. (See photo on page 41.)

2 pounds very lean top sirloin or flank steak



¼ cup dark brown sugar



2 tablespoons kosher salt



2 tablespoons soy sauce



4 cloves garlic, minced



2 teaspoons red pepper flakes (optional)



2 teaspoons freshly cracked black pepper (optional)

Neutral cooking oil (like olive, avocado, sunflower, or safflower oil) to lightly oil the racks (for oven drying)

1. Freeze the steak for 30 minutes to make it easier to slice thinly. With a very sharp knife, slice the meat against the grain as thinly as you possibly can, ⅛ to ¼ inch thick. 2. Use a small, sharp knife to remove every trace of fat from the meat. Don’t skip this step. Meat can

36 

be cured, whereas fat cannot, and the fat may go rancid later. 3. Lay the well-trimmed meat between two layers of paper towels and roll it up tightly to press out as much of the moisture as you can. 4. In a medium bowl, use your hands to toss the meat with the sugar, salt, soy sauce, garlic, and pepper flakes and black pepper, if using. Let the meat marinate for 1 hour to help boost its flavor. Remove the meat and discard the marinade. Now it’s time to dry the meat either in the oven or with a food dehydrator.

DRYING IN AN OVEN

1. Preheat your oven to its lowest setting. Position one rack in the middle of the oven and one rack on the bottom. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

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2. Lightly oil two wire cooling racks and place them on top of the lined baking sheets. Lay the marinated meat on the racks completely flat. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly.

at 160°F (70°C) for 3 to 8 hours, depending on your machine, the weather, and the thickness of the meat. Start checking the jerky after 3 hours. It’s ready when you’re able to bend a piece of jerky and it breaks.

3. Place the baking sheets in the oven. If you don’t have a convection oven, wedge the oven door open with a wooden spoon handle. Depending on your oven, the weather, and the thickness of the meat, your jerky will be done in 3 to 8 hours. Start checking the jerky after 3 hours. It’s ready when you’re able to bend a piece and it breaks.

STORAGE

DRYING IN A FOOD DEHYDRATOR

Lay the marinated meat on the rack completely flat. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly. Dry the meat

While your dried jerky is still warm, blot it with paper towels to remove any fat that may be sweating on the surface. Let cool, then store your jerky in a ziplock bag or an airtight container. While the jerky will keep at room temperature for several days, it will keep longer (6 weeks or more) refrigerated. Double-wrapped and frozen, the jerky will last for several months. For best results, fill an empty tea bag or a small piece of cheesecloth with raw rice, close it securely, and place it inside the container to help absorb any residual moisture.

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SOUR ORANGE BEEF JERKY MAKES

Ready to try something beyond the flavor of typical teriyaki? Tangy,

1 pound

warm, and piquant, this mojo-infused dried meat will have your taste buds taking flight.

TIME

4–10 hours

2 pounds very lean top sirloin or flank steak



3 cups sliced red onion (about ½ medium onion)



1 cup orange juice, fresh (from 2 big, juicy oranges) or store-bought

METHOD

Drying (see page 22)



½ cup lemon juice (from 2 juicy lemons)



2 tablespoons fine sea salt



4 teaspoons ground cumin

Neutral cooking oil (like olive, avocado, sunflower, or safflower oil) to lightly oil the racks (for oven drying)

1. Freeze the steak for 30 minutes to make it easier to slice thinly. With a very sharp knife, slice the meat against the grain as thinly as you possibly can, ⅛ to ¼ inch thick.

38 

4. In a medium bowl, toss the meat with the onion, orange juice, lemon juice, salt, and cumin. Allow the meat to marinate for 1 hour to help boost its flavor. Remove the meat and discard the marinade. (The meat may change color from the acidic juice. Once it dries, however, the color will correct to a succulent red.) Now it’s time to dry the meat either in the oven or with a food dehydrator.

DRYING IN AN OVEN

1. Preheat your oven to its lowest setting. Position one rack in the middle of the oven and one rack on the bottom. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

2. Use a small, sharp knife to remove every trace of fat from the meat. Don’t skip this step. Meat can be cured, whereas fat cannot, and the fat may go rancid later.

2. Lightly oil two wire cooling racks and place them on top of the lined baking sheets. Lay the marinated meat on the racks completely flat. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly.

3. Lay the well-trimmed meat between two layers of paper towels and roll it up tightly to press out as much of the moisture as you can.

3. Place the baking sheets in the oven. If you don’t have a convection oven, wedge the oven door open with a wooden spoon handle.

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Depending on your oven, the weather, and the thickness of the meat, your jerky will be done in 3 to 8 hours. Start checking the jerky after 3 hours. It’s ready when you’re able to bend a piece of jerky and it breaks.

DRYING IN A FOOD DEHYDRATOR

Lay the marinated meat on the rack completely flat. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly. Dry the meat at 160°F (70°C) for 3 to 8 hours, depending on your machine, the weather, and the thickness of the meat. Start checking the jerky after 3 hours. It’s ready when you’re able to bend a piece of jerky and it breaks.

STORAGE

While your dried jerky is still warm, blot it between paper towels to remove any fat that may be sweating on the surface. Let cool, then store your jerky in a ziplock bag or an airtight container. While the jerky will keep at room temperature for several days, it will keep longer (6 weeks or more) refrigerated. Double-wrapped and frozen, the jerky will keep for several months. For best results, fill an empty tea bag or a small piece of cheesecloth with raw rice, close it securely, and place it inside the container to help absorb any residual moisture.

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Salmon Jerky, page 122

Biltong, page 51

40 

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Coppiette, page 90

Basic Beef Jerky, page 36

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MISO-YOGURT BEEF JERKY MAKES

This is a jerky you’ll never find on a convenience store shelf. The heft

1 pound

of the yogurt helps boost the protein and gives the meat a softer, more unctuous texture. The salty, mild miso makes this jerky super-savory.

TIME

4–10 hours

Garlic and ginger? Just because. They always give meat a high kick of flavor and spice.

METHOD

Drying (see page 22)



2 pounds very lean top sirloin or flank steak



1 cup whole-milk yogurt



½ cup white miso



4 teaspoons finely minced garlic (from 3 or 4 large cloves)



2 teaspoons finely minced fresh ginger



2 teaspoons fine sea salt

Neutral cooking oil (like olive, avocado, sunflower, or safflower oil) to lightly oil the racks (for oven drying)

1. Freeze the meat for 30 minutes to make it easier to slice thinly. With a very sharp knife, slice the meat against the grain as thinly as you possibly can, ⅛ to ¼ inch thick. 2. Use a small, sharp knife to remove every trace of fat from the meat. Don’t skip this step. Meat can be cured, whereas fat cannot, and the fat may go rancid later. 3. Lay the well-trimmed meat between two layers of paper towels and roll it up tightly to press out as much of the moisture as you can.

42 

4. In a medium bowl, combine the yogurt, miso, garlic, ginger, and salt. Toss the beef with the marinade. Let the meat marinate for 30 minutes to help boost its flavor. Remove the meat and discard the marinade. Now it’s time to dry the meat either in the oven or with a food dehydrator.

DRYING IN AN OVEN

1. Preheat your oven to its lowest setting. Position one rack in the middle of the oven and one rack on the bottom. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. 2. Lightly oil two wire cooling racks and place them on top of the lined baking sheets. Lay the marinated meat on the racks completely flat. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly. 3. Place the baking sheets in the oven. If you don’t have a convection oven, wedge the oven door open with a wooden spoon handle. Depending on your oven, the weather, and the thickness of the

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meat, your jerky will be done in 3 to 8 hours. Start checking the jerky after 3 hours. It’s ready when you’re able to bend a piece of jerky and it breaks.

DRYING IN A FOOD DEHYDRATOR

Lay the marinated meat on the rack completely flat. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly. Dry the meat at 160°F (70°C) for 3 to 8 hours, depending on your machine, the weather, and the thickness of the meat. Start checking the jerky after 3 hours. It’s ready when you’re able to bend a piece of jerky and it breaks.

STORAGE

While your dried jerky is still warm, blot it between paper towels to remove any fat that may be sweating on the surface. Let cool, then store your jerky in a ziplock bag or an airtight container. While the jerky will keep at room temperature for several days, it will keep longer (6 weeks or more) refrigerated. Double-wrapped and frozen, the jerky will keep for several months. For best results, fill an empty tea bag or a small piece of cheesecloth with raw rice, close it securely, and place it inside the container to help absorb any residual moisture.

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BIG GAME JERKY MAKES

Maybe you hunt. Or maybe you hunt no further than your butcher shop.

About 1 pound

Either way, if your meat-loving dinner table is topped only with beef, pork, or chicken, you are missing out on some of the finest delicacies of

TIME

6–10 hours

the land. As with all jerky making, you want to select lean cuts of game

METHOD

marinade is savory, sweet, and complex. Oh, and the best way to crack

Drying (see page 22)

and trim off all the fat — think eye of round or tenderloin. This deep, dark cardamom pods is to just bite into them enough to make them split.

2 pounds lean venison, elk, or buffalo



½ cup Worcestershire sauce



¼ cup blackstrap molasses



¼ cup dark soy sauce



1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest



1 teaspoon caraway seeds



8 cardamom pods, cracked



3 garlic cloves, finely minced

Neutral cooking oil (like olive, avocado, sunflower, or safflower oil) to lightly oil the racks (for oven drying)

1. Remove as much fat from the meat as you can and freeze the meat for 20 to 30 minutes to make it easier to slice. With a very sharp knife, slice the meat as thinly as you possibly can, ¼ to ⅓ inch thick.

44 

2. In a large bowl, whisk together the Worcestershire sauce, molasses, soy sauce, lemon zest, caraway seeds, cardamom, and garlic. 3. Drop the sliced meat into the bowl one piece at a time to ensure that each piece is completely coated in the brine. Allow the meat to sit in the marinade for 90 minutes. Remove the meat and discard the marinade. Now it’s time to dry the meat either in the oven or with a food dehydrator.

DRYING IN AN OVEN

1. Preheat your oven to its lowest setting. Position one rack in the middle of the oven and one rack on the bottom. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

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2. Lightly oil two wire cooling racks and place them on top of the lined baking sheets. Lay the marinated meat on the racks completely flat. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly. 3. Place the baking sheets in the oven. If you don’t have a convection oven, wedge the oven door open with a wooden spoon handle. Depending on your oven, the weather, and the thickness of the meat, your jerky will be done in 3 to 8 hours. Start checking the jerky after 3 hours. It’s ready when you’re able to bend a piece of jerky and it breaks.

DRYING IN A FOOD DEHYDRATOR

Lay the marinated meat on the rack completely flat. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly. Dry the meat

at 160°F (70°C) for 3 to 8 hours, depending on your machine, the weather, and the thickness of the meat. Start checking the jerky after 3 hours. It’s ready when you’re able to bend a piece of jerky and it breaks.

STORAGE

While your dried jerky is still warm, blot it between paper towels to remove the fat that may be sweating on the surface. Let cool, then store your jerky in a ziplock bag or an airtight container. While the jerky will keep at room temperature for several days, it will keep longer (6 weeks or more) refrigerated. Double-wrapped and frozen, the jerky will keep for several months. For best results, fill a tea bag or a small piece of tied cheesecloth with raw rice and place it inside the container to help absorb any residual moisture.

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46 

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MEAT ENERGY BARS MAKES

Oh sure, there are many brands of meat-based energy bars,but there

16 bars

are many rewards to making your own, including total control over

TIME

About 2 hours

ingredients and quality. This hybrid of energy bar and jerky has a lot going for it, including the protein and nutrition of real meat, sweetness, crunch, and calories for heavy lifting. Based on the idea of pemmican

METHOD

(page 49), this is a great alternative use for surplus meat, and the flavor

Drying (see page 22)

variations are just about endless. When it comes to meat energy bars, store-bought is for suckers.

VA R I AT IONS

Feel free to swap out the chia seeds for your favorite nut or to use different dried fruit. A pinch of clove or cinnamon will also warm up the flavors.



¼ cup extra-virgin coconut oil, plus a bit more for the pan



6 ounces jerky of your choice



⅔ cup pumpkin seeds



1 cup dried mango



6 large dates, pits removed



2 tablespoons chia seeds



¼ cup honey

Kosher salt

1. Prepare an 8-inch square pan by rubbing the bottom, sides, and corners with a small amount of coconut oil. 2. Chop the jerky. If you’re using a knife, make sure it’s sharp, and work it over the jerky until it’s very fine. If you’re going to use a food processor, make sure the jerky is very dry and brittle: dry it on a rack over a rimmed baking sheet in the oven at its lowest temperature or in the food dehydrator at 160°F (70°C)

for 1 hour or more, until it crumbles easily. Then process the jerky until it is very fine. Transfer to a medium bowl. 3. Toast the pumpkin seeds to coax out more flavor: Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat. Toast the seeds, stirring constantly, until they turn golden brown, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer them to a plate to cool. 4. Chop the cooled pumpkin seeds, or put them in the food processor and pulse a few times to crumble; they should be about the size of bits of granola. Add them to the jerky. 5. Chop the mango and dates very finely, or put them in the food processor and process into a sticky paste. Add them to the jerky, along

Recipe continues on next page

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Meat Energy Bars (continued) with the chia seeds and honey. Melt the remaining ¼ cup coconut oil in the microwave, heating it for just a few seconds to make it easier to pour, then add it to the bowl. 6. Mix the contents of the bowl thoroughly with your hands; the mixture should compress and stick together when squeezed. Taste the mixture and add ½ teaspoon salt at a time if needed. 7. Press the mixture into the prepared pan very firmly until it is flat and even all over, particularly in

48 

the corners. Cover and refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour. Cut into 16 energy bars. Carefully remove each one with a knife or spatula. Serve the bars immediately, or wrap each one individually in ­plastic wrap.

STORAGE

Like jerky, these bars can easily be thrown into a backpack or lunchbox for the day, but they will keep for months in the fridge. Wrap each bar in plastic wrap, and then store the bars in a ziplock bag or airtight container.

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PEMMICAN

(NATIVE AMERICAN DRIED FRUIT AND MEAT) MAKES

Survivalists love it. Paleos love it. This ancient Native American food of

8 servings

dried meat, dried fruit, and animal fat is the inspiration for the meat-based

TIME

2–10 hours (depending on whether you make the tallow) METHODS

Drying (see page 22); Fat Curing (see page 27)

energy bars now flooding the market. It was adopted by fur traders in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries because it’s portable, calorically dense, nutritious, and well preserved for long journeys. The flavor is intense, but some travelers would eat it as is. Some would simmer it into a stew with onions or potatoes. Note that it might be more convenient to start with dried ground meat, but I prefer jerky strips because they’re leaner. This is also a good use for an abundance of dried fruit and jerky of any kind — beef, bison, elk, venison, or even dried tofu. This recipe calls for tallow, which is a great high-heat cooking fat that has a savory,

VA R I AT IONS

Feel free to try any kind of jerky or to replace all or part of the cranberries with dried cherries or dried blueberries. A small dash of honey, ground cloves, or ground cinnamon will also warm up the flavors.

meaty flavor beloved by chefs. You can use store-bought, or follow the directions here and make your own.

2 pounds (or more) suet (if you are making your own tallow; see page 50), or ¼ cup store-bought tallow



6 ounces jerky of your choice



1 cup dried cranberries



1 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Prepare a 5- by 9-inch loaf pan by rubbing a dab of tallow around the bottom, corners, and sides.

2. Chop the jerky. If you’re using a knife, make sure it’s sharp, and work it over the jerky until it’s very fine. If you’re going to use a food processor, make sure the jerky is very dry and brittle: dry it on a rack set over a rimmed baking sheet in the oven at its lowest temperature or in the food dehydrator at 160°F (70°C) for 1 hour or more, until it crumbles easily. Then process the jerky until it is very fine. Transfer to a medium mixing bowl.

Recipe continues on next page

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Pemmican (continued) 3. Chop the cranberries, or add them to the food processor and pulse a few times to crumble. They should be about the size of bits of granola. Add them to the jerky, along with the salt. 4. Melt the ¼ cup tallow in the microwave in 20-second bursts until it’s liquid enough to pour. Or place the jar of tallow in a pan of hot water until it melts. Add the tallow to the meat and fruit and stir well. The tallow will hold them together when it firms. 5. Taste the mixture and adjust the salt as necessary, adding it in ½-teaspoon increments if needed. And feel how soft your hands are from the tallow! Nice.

6. Press the mixture into the prepared loaf pan very firmly until it is flat and even, particularly in the corners. Cover and refrigerate until firm, for at least 1 hour. Slice into eight pieces. Carefully remove each piece with a knife or spatula. Serve the pemmican immediately, or wrap each piece individually in plastic wrap.

STORAGE

Like jerky, these bars can easily be thrown into a backpack or lunch box for the day, but they will keep for months in the fridge. Wrap each bar in plastic wrap and then store the bars in a ziplock bag or airtight container.

How to Make Tallow If you’re making your own tallow, you can prepare it months before you make your pemmican; tallow will keep, covered in the refrigerator, for at least 1 year. To make it, combine the suet with about 1 cup water in a large Dutch oven. Bring the water to a boil, uncovered, then reduce the heat to maintain a low simmer. Stir the tallow occasionally, breaking up large pieces. Once there’s enough liquid fat to cover the bottom of the pot and all of the water has boiled away, cover the pot to help hold in the heat. Cook until all of the hard fat has broken down into liquid, about 8 hours. Once the fat has been fully rendered, strain it into canning jars. Two pounds of suet makes about 1½ pints of tallow.

50 

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BILTONG

(SOUTH AFRICAN DRIED MEAT) MAKES

Former Top Chef contestant, beloved San Francisco Bay Area chef,

About 1 pound

and, above all, native-born South African Elizabeth Binder notes that

TIME

2–5 days

biltong is not the same thing as beef jerky. Yes, they are both dried meat. But real biltong can be beef or wild game — including springbok, kudu, wildebeest (all types of antelope), or ostrich. The meat is sliced thicker

METHOD

than jerky and then, after drying, cut into bite-size pieces. The meat is

Drying (see page 22)

hung so that it ages as it dries, which has a huge impact on its flavor. And despite the insistence of current U.S. food safety standards, biltong tends to have some fat. The seasoning of biltong is uniformly very simple: salt, pepper, and lots of freshly toasted coriander. (See photo on page 40.)



2 pounds beef fillet, sirloin, rump roast, top round, or bottom round



1 cup red wine vinegar



6 tablespoons coriander seeds



4 teaspoons black peppercorns



2 tablespoons kosher salt

Neutral cooking oil (like olive, avocado, sunflower, or safflower oil) to lightly oil the rack (for oven drying)

1. Slice the meat into large pieces about 1 inch thick. Pour the vinegar into a small bowl, then give each piece a quick dip in the vinegar. Let the meat dry on a rack under a fan for 30 to 60 minutes, or until it feels a bit tacky to the touch.

2. While you’re waiting for the meat to dry, toast the coriander seeds: Heat a small skillet over medium heat for 1 minute. Add the coriander and, stirring constantly, toast until light golden brown, about 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, and pour the coriander seeds into a bowl to let them cool. 3. Grind the toasted coriander and peppercorns in a spice grinder, coffee grinder, or food processor until finely ground. Pour the coriander, peppercorns, and salt into a medium bowl. Recipe continues on next page

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Biltong (continued) 4. Once the meat has dried, toss it with the ground spices. Cover the bowl and refrigerate overnight. Now it’s time to dry the meat either in the oven or with a food dehydrator.

DRYING IN AN OVEN

1. Preheat your oven to its lowest setting. Position one rack in the middle of the oven. Line one baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Lightly oil a wire cooling rack and place it on top of the lined baking sheet. Keeping the spices intact on the surface of the meat, lay the

meat on the rack completely flat. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly. 3. Place the baking sheets in the oven. If you don’t have a convection oven, wedge the oven door open with a wooden spoon handle. Depending on your oven, the weather, and the thickness of the meat, your biltong will be done in 5 to 9 hours. The meat has cured when it feels quite firm and stiff to the touch (like well-done meat) and when it is no longer raw in the middle.

Air Drying This is by far the most traditional method that has been used for making biltog for hundreds of years, but it is also the one that, in terms of food safety standards, is frowned upon by the USDA. Some folks go all out and build a biltong hanging box, equipped with a light bulb and fan. Others simply hang the meat on paper clips from a clothesline with a fan blowing beneath. Alternatively, to simulate the hanging method of drying, you can dry the meat on your food dehydrator’s lowest setting. This method takes 3 to 4 days to dry and age the meat, depending on its thickness and the weather. Though not traditional, if you do go this route, it’s a good idea to heat the cured meat in a 275°F (140°C) oven until it reaches an internal temperature of 160°F (70°C) afterward.

52 

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4. Raise the temperature of the oven to 275°F (140°C).

2. Preheat the oven to 275°F (140°C).

5. To be absolutely certain your biltong is free of contaminants, heat the dried meat in the preheated oven for at least 15 minutes, or until it reaches an internal temperature of 160°F (70°C).

3. To be absolutely certain your biltong is free of contaminants, heat the dried meat in the preheated oven for at least 15 minutes, or until it reaches an internal temperature of 160°F (70°C).

6. To serve the biltong, slice the meat into bite-size pieces.

4. To serve the biltong, slice the meat into bite-size pieces.

DRYING IN A FOOD DEHYDRATOR

STORAGE

1. Lay the meat, spices intact, on the rack completely flat. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly. For maximum food safety, dry the meat at 160°F (70°C) for 4 to 10 hours, depending on your machine, the weather, and the thickness of the meat. The biltong is ready when it feels very firm all the way through and, when a thick piece is cut, it looks completely cured.

Once it’s cool, store your biltong in a brown paper bag so it can breathe. While the biltong will keep at room temperature for several days, it will keep longer (6 weeks or more) refrigerated in the bag. Double-wrapped in a ziplock bag and frozen, it will keep for several months.

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KHLEA

(MOROCCAN PRESERVED LAMB) MAKES

Khlea, also known as khlii, is preserved lamb or beef that, when

1 quart

traditionally prepared, combines a couple of the best practices of

TIME

36 hours METHODS

Drying (see page 22); Fat Curing (see page 27)

ancient food preservation: sun drying and fat curing, with a quick frying in between to help kill any pathogens along the way. Modern food safety dictates a few changes to this recipe: we will dry it in a dehydrator or in the oven, and we’ll store it in the fridge. Khlea is traditionally served chopped with eggs or sautéed as the starting flavor of a pot of lentils, couscous, or beans. Its rich and flavorful fat is also great for cooking.

2 pounds boneless lamb shoulder

10 garlic cloves, finely minced

3 tablespoons kosher salt



1 tablespoon ground cumin



4 teaspoons ground coriander



1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

Neutral cooking oil (like olive, avocado, sunflower, or safflower oil) to lightly oil the racks (for oven drying)

2 cups animal fat (such as tallow, lard, or goose fat) or extra-virgin olive oil

1. Chop the lamb into 2-inch cubes, as you would for stew meat. While most preserved meat recipes call for trimming the fat, here we are going to leave it. Pat the meat dry between layers of paper towels until it’s sticky to the touch.

2. In a medium bowl, stir together the garlic, salt, cumin, coriander, and pepper flakes. Add the meat to the bowl and toss it thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours. Now it’s time to dry the meat either in the oven or with a food dehydrator.

DRYING IN AN OVEN

1. Preheat your oven to its lowest setting. Position one rack in the middle of the oven. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Lightly oil a wire cooling rack and place it on top of the lined baking sheet. Lay the marinated meat on the rack. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly. Recipe continues on next page

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Khlea (continued) 3. Place the baking sheets in the oven. If you don’t have a convection oven, wedge the oven door open with a wooden spoon handle. Depending on your oven, the weather, and the thickness of the meat, the lamb will be dry in 7 to 8 hours. It is ready when it feels hard (like cooked meat) all over. Now it’s time to fry and cure the meat.

DRYING IN A FOOD DEHYDRATOR

Lay the marinated meat on the rack. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly. Dry the meat at 160°F (70°C) for 7 to 8 hours, depending on your machine, the weather, and the thickness of the meat. The lamb is ready when it feels hard (like cooked meat) all over. Now it’s time to fry and cure the meat.

FRYING AND CURING

1. Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Melt the animal fat, and then carefully add the lamb to the pan in

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a single layer with space between the pieces; work in batches if necessary. Use tongs or chopsticks to fry the meat until golden brown on all sides, 4 to 6 minutes. 2. Pack the fried meat very, very tightly into a quart canning jar. Really press down on the meat to make it fit; it’s soft enough to be flexible, but not so soft that it will fall apart. 3. Carefully pour the warm fat from the pan into the jar. Cover the lamb completely by at least ½ inch. No part of the meat should be sticking out above the surface of the oil. If it is, add more liquefied fat or oil as necessary to cover it completely. The khlea is ready to eat, but it will become far more flavorful the longer it cures.

STORAGE

Let the jar cool completely and then store it, covered tightly, in the refrigerator. The khlea will keep for at least 6 months.

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CORNED BEEF MAKES

Why should St. Patrick’s Day get all the meat-filled glory? Any day

About 3 pounds

is a good day to get your meat in a brine. “Corning” the meat means,

TIME

essentially, pickling it in brine and spices. And as any corned beef

10–14 days

aficionado will tell you, this is delicious plated hot (with potatoes,

METHOD

mustard on rye bread. Don’t let the use of sodium nitrite (the pink curing

Brine Curing (see page 20)

cabbage, Irish soda bread, and, of course, beer) or sliced cold with salt available at some butcher shops or from online sausage-making suppliers) deter you. And if you’d rather have pastrami, cure the beef, then proceed to the instructions on page 60.

6 cups water



¾ cup kosher salt



¾ cup sugar



1 scant teaspoon pink curing salt (InstaCure #1)



1 tablespoon black peppercorns



2 teaspoons brown mustard seeds



2 teaspoons celery seeds



1 teaspoon caraway seeds



4 garlic cloves, crushed



2 star anise



1 large dried bay leaf



1 (4-pound) beef brisket



4 large new potatoes (optional)



3 large carrots, peeled and cut into large chunks (optional)



½ head green cabbage, cut in two, core intact (optional)

1. Add the water, salt, sugar, and curing salt to a large deep bowl or small food-safe bucket and stir well to dissolve the solids; the solution will be cloudy. Add the peppercorns, mustard seeds, celery seeds, caraway seeds, garlic, star anise, and bay leaf, then add the meat. Make sure the meat is completely submerged in the brining liquid. If necessary, invert a plate, place it on top of the meat, and weight it down to keep the meat safely below the top of the brine. 2. Cover the bowl and let the beef “corn” in the refrigerator for 10 to 14 days or until fully cured, stirring every couple of days to distribute the spices and checking to make sure the meat is fully covered in brine. The beef will be fully cured Recipe continues on next page

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Corned Beef (continued) when it feels stiff and firm throughout. If you wish to tie the meat for a prettier presentation, do so after the curing process. 3. Once cured, drain and rinse the meat and discard all of the brine ingredients. Place the meat in a large stockpot and cover it with fresh water by 1 inch. Cover and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1½ hours (really, don’t boil it, or else your meat will be tough). If you’re making a meal out of this, add the potatoes, carrots, and cabbage and let them simmer with the beef for the last 30 minutes. The meat is done when the internal temperature at its thickest part is 150°F (65°C).

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4. To serve the corned beef hot, trim away large hunks of excess fat. Slice the meat against the grain and on the bias and serve alongside the vegetables. To serve it cold, trim away the excess fat, cover tightly, and refrigerate for at least 8 hours. Slice the meat as thinly as possible.

STORAGE

Wrapped airtight and refrigerated, corned beef will keep for at least 1 week. Wrapped tightly and frozen, it will keep for at least 6 months.

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PASTRAMI MAKES

While it begins its life as basic corned beef, pastrami is an example of

About 3 pounds

some serious culinary magic. Making it is a two-step process: first you cure the meat in brine, and then you patiently and slowly smoke it to cook it

TIME

10–14 days for ­brining, plus 1– 2 days for smoking

and add flavor. Note that while your pastrami will be so very tempting to eat immediately after smoking, its initial saltiness may really bowl you over. It truly takes refrigeration, a day of mellowing, and two slices of rye and a healthy slather of mustard for this meat to reach its full potential. That said,

METHODS

Brine Curing (see page 20); Hot Smoking (see page 29) or Cold Smoking (see page 32)

if you don’t like salt as much as I do, soak the cured meat in a couple of changes of fresh water before smoking it. To slice your pastrami superthin for sandwiches, freeze your finished, chilled meaty masterpiece for about 30 minutes to firm it up, then go at it with your freshly sharpened knife.

1 (4-pound) cured Corned Beef, ­prepared through step 2 (page 57)



2 teaspoons finely crushed black peppercorns

1. Discard the brine (including all the solid ingredients) from the corned beef. If you’re planning to soak the meat to reduce its salinity, do it now: Soak the meat in fresh water for 1 hour. Drain and repeat. 2. Pat the meat dry and press on the pepper. Let it sit on a wire rack under a fan to help it dry while you prepare the grill for hot or cold smoking.

SMOKING

1. If hot-smoking, smoke the meat with the thickest portion closest to the flame until it reaches an

60 

internal temperature of 150°F (65°C) in the center of its thickest part. Note that you may need a s­ econd batch of coals after 1½ hours or so; the total cooking time should be 2 to 2½ hours. If cold-smoking, smoke the meat for 12 hours, then finish it in the oven at 250°F (120°C) or on a low-heat grill for about 1 hour, until it reaches an internal temperature of 160°F (70°C) in the center of its thickest part. 2. Allow the meat to cool completely, and then refrigerate it for 1 day before eating. Slice it thinly and enjoy.

STORAGE

Tightly wrapped, this pastrami will keep refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen for at least 6 months.

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3

PORK

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I

f I were forced to pick just one meat to enjoy for the rest of my days, it would be the almighty pig. Every bit — the meat, the fat, the skin, and even the ears — is extremely delicious. I know I shouldn’t

play favorites, but I cannot tell a lie: whether roasted, fried, grilled, dried, smoked, salted, or pickled, pork is the dinnertime beast to be reckoned with. There are many recipes here that will be familiar to you, including bacon, ham, and pork rinds. But I’ve also ventured down more untrodden paths, which brought me to Pork Belly Confit (page 80), which is pork belly (the same cut used for bacon) that has been given a French treatment. Other more unusual recipes, such as the Salt Pork (page 73) and the New Orleans–Style Pickle Meat (page 84), bring flavor and pork’s richness to slow-simmered suppers that are worth every minute of waiting. I am particularly in love with two of the Asian preparations of dried pork: Bak Kwa (page 87) and Rousong (page 82). Bak kwa is a thin and flavorful sheet of ground pork that is preserved and then grilled; rousong is pork meat so completely dry that it becomes almost like sprinkles of savory cotton candy on top of rice or eggs. Both, I can assure you, are dried pork that you don’t see often. Remember that while pork has historically been cured at cool room temperatures in many preserved-meat traditions, modern scientists insist that preserved pork should be heated to an internal temperature between 150°F and 160°F (65°C and 70°C) before being consumed. And hunters and farmers please take note: if you’ve killed your own pigs, you need to dress the meat immediately and take some extra precautions (see page 7). Now, get ready to pig out on some pig . . .

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HAM MAKES

A giant hunk of roast pork is one of the most soulful meals imaginable.

About 4 pounds

Brining makes it juicy and flavorful. The addition of pink curing salt (sodium nitrite) is the thing that separates the ham from the pork. The salt

TIME

10–14 days for ­brining, plus 5 hours for roasting or 1– 2 days for smoking

not only helps cure the meat but also keeps its flesh pink — a must for many ham devotees. Smoking the ham is not required, but you will be deeply rewarded for your extra effort. I find that when the ham is smoked, it doesn’t need a glaze, but if your taste buds insist, brush the glaze onto the smoked meat and keep it on the grill for 20 minutes longer.

METHODS

Brine Curing (see page 20); Hot Smoking (see page 29) or Cold Smoking (see page 32)

FOR THE BRINE 10 cups water

¾ cup dark brown sugar



¾ cup kosher salt



1 small yellow onion, cut into quarters



2 large fresh rosemary sprigs



4 small dried bay leaves

Zest of 1 small orange

1 scant teaspoon pink curing salt (InstaCure #1)



1 (5-pound) bone-in fresh ham

FOR THE GL A ZE (IF ROASTING)

⅓ cup dark brown sugar



1 tablespoon soy sauce

1. To make the brine, combine the water, sugar, salt, onion, rosemary, bay leaves, orange zest, and curing salt in a large deep bowl or small food-safe bucket. Stir until the sugar and salt have dissolved completely. 2. Place the ham into the brine and weight it, if necessary, to keep it completely submerged below the brine line. An inverted plate with a jar full of water or some rocks on top will probably do the trick. Cover with either a lid or plastic wrap and let the ham cure in the brine in the refrigerator for 10 to 14 days. Stir it occasionally to circulate the flavors while it cures.

About 2 tablespoons orange juice

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3. Discard the brine and all of the solids, and let the ham drain. Pat it dry completely. At this point, you can either roast your ham or smoke it.

SMOKING

ROASTING

2. If hot-smoking the meat, place the thickest portion closest to the flame and smoke the meat until it reaches an internal temperature of 150°F (65°C) in the center of its thickest part. Note that you may need a second batch of coals after 1½ hours or so, but the total smoking time should be 2 to 2½ hours. The glaze is not essential for the smoked meat, as the smoke has enough fl ­ avor on its own. If cold-smoking, smoke the meat for 12 hours, then finish it in the oven or on a grill set up for hot smoking until it reaches an internal temperature of 150°F (65°C).

1. Preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C). 2. Place the ham, fat side up, in a baking dish and place in the oven. Roast the ham for 1 hour, then reduce the temperature to 325°F (160°C) and roast for another 1 to 2 hours, until the internal temperature of the meat at its thickest part and away from the bone is 150°F (65°C). Start checking the temperature of the meat 1 hour after reducing the temperature. 3. To make the glaze, combine the sugar and soy sauce in a small bowl. Add the orange juice a little at a time until the glaze is thin enough to be brushed on with a pastry brush. 4. Once the meat reaches temperature, brush the glaze over the top and sides of the ham and return it to the oven for 20 minutes. Let the ham rest for 10 minutes before slicing and serving.

1. Pat the ham dry and let it sit under a direct fan while you prepare the grill and the charcoal (if using) for hot or cold smoking.

3. Let the meat rest for 10 minutes before slicing and serving.

STORAGE

Tightly wrapped, the ham will keep refrigerated for at least 1 week or frozen for at least 6 months.

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CZECH PICKLED HOT DOGS MAKES

Pickling might not be the first thing that comes to mind with hot dogs,

1 quart

but my kids will tell you that it makes the hot dogs more delicious. The dogs get firm, flavorful, and piquant from the onions and spices.

TIME

This Czech pub snack, called utopenci or “drowned men,” is meant to

2 weeks

be eaten from the jar with an ice-cold beer, but I also like to sauté the

METHOD

Pickling (see page 9)

pickled onions and dogs with some sauerkraut.



5 allspice berries



2 large dried bay leaves



1 large garlic clove, smashed



1 tablespoon black peppercorns



1 teaspoon red pepper flakes



1 pound good-quality hot dogs



1 small yellow onion, sliced into ­razor-thin strips



¾ cup distilled white vinegar



½ cup water



5 teaspoons sugar



2 teaspoons kosher salt

1. Place the allspice, bay leaves, garlic, peppercorns, and pepper flakes in a quart canning jar. 2. Remove the hot dogs from their package and pat them dry. Cut them in half. Carefully make a slit lengthwise from the center of each hot dog, being careful not to cut all the way through. You want to slit the dog and open it up like a hot dog bun, leaving the tips intact.

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3. Stuff the hot dogs with the raw onion, being careful not to use so much onion that they split in half. Pack the stuffed dogs into the jar as tightly as possible. If there are any remaining onions, pack them on top of the hot dogs. 4. Combine the vinegar, water, sugar, and salt in a small saucepan over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar and salt. Once the brine reaches a boil, remove from the heat and pour it over the hot dogs to cover them completely. Cover the jar and let it cool completely before moving to the refrigerator. While the hot dogs are safe to eat anytime, the flavors need 2 weeks to come together.

STORAGE

Keep these covered and refrigerated, ensuring that the solids stay below the brine line. This pickle will keep for several months.

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BACON EXTRAORDINAIRE MAKES

Americans are deeply in love with the meat of all meats, the cured

2 pounds

(often smoked) fatty belly of the pig. While its saturated fat content may make bacon a “sometimes” food for health, it is an “always” food

TIME

7–10 days

for those who swoon for swine, and each slice does contain 3 grams of

METHODS

you can slice and fry it immediately after curing, American-style bacon

Dry Curing (see page 17); Hot Smoking (optional; see page 29)

protein. Bacon must first be dry-rubbed and cured for 7 to 10 days. While is usually smoked as well. Note that you may need to order pork belly from your local butcher or grocery store. And if you can’t buy pink curing salt (sodium nitrite) from your local kitchen supply shop or butcher, order it online from a sausage-making supplier. For another way to fall in love with bacon, use the smoked bacon in Bacon, Roasted Tomato, and Onion Spread (page 71). 2½–3 pounds thick, center-cut skinless pork belly

½ cup sugar



1 tablespoon blackstrap molasses



2 tablespoons kosher salt, plus more as needed



½ teaspoon pink curing salt (InstaCure #1)



1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Trim any thin edges from the pork belly so that the piece is of even thickness. (You can save these excess pieces of belly for making sausage or lard, or for roasting into a tasty snack.)

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2. Combine the sugar and molasses in a large rectangular baking dish or pan. Mash until thoroughly incorporated; you’ll have a very dark brown sugar. Mix in the kosher salt, curing salt, and pepper. Add the meat to the dish and rub the cure into the meat (like a relaxing porcine spa treatment), spreading it evenly around the sides, top, and bottom. Tuck the rubbed meat into a 1-gallon or oversized ziplock plastic bag, placing it in a single layer. Lay the meat flat in a dish (in case any liquids escape from the bag) and chill in the refrigerator for 7 days, daily massaging the liquids that will accumulate inside the bag into the meat and flipping the bag over.

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3. Inspect your bacon. It should be firm to the touch all over, like touching a cooked steak. If the flesh still feels spongy and soft in spots, sprinkle it evenly with an additional 2 tablespoons kosher salt and let it cure a little longer. Check it again after 1 to 2 days. 4. Once the bacon is fully cured, brush off the rub, rinse the meat well, and pat it completely dry. At this point, your bacon is cured but not cooked. You can either fry the slices in a skillet now or smoke them and then fry. Either way, your bacon needs to be cooked before being eaten.

until browned on both sides. Drain on paper towels and enjoy.

STORAGE

Cured or smoked bacon can be stored in large slabs, in precut hunks for flavoring beans or other dishes, or in slices layered between pieces of parchment paper and sealed tightly in a freezer storage bag. It will keep in the refrigerator for up to 7 days or in the freezer for at least 3 months.

SMOKING

If you are smoking the meat, follow the directions for hot smoking beginning on page 29. You will need 3 cups of hickory sawdust. It will take 1½ to 2½ hours to smoke the pork belly. The interior of the meat must reach 150°F (65°C) to be fully cooked.

FRYING

When your bacon is ready, slice it as thin (or as thick) as you like it. (Freezing the bacon for 30 minutes will help you slice it very thinly.) Fry in a skillet over medium heat

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COOK IT

BACON, ROASTED TOMATO, AND ONION SPREAD Is this spread good on a BLT? Oh yes. Is it the hero of your new turkey sandwich? Absolutely. Slathered on toast beneath runny egg yolk? You’d better believe it, baby. This is the real deal in savory jams — sweet, smoky, and decadent. While this is an excellent use for your homemade bacon,

MAKES

About 1 pound TIME

2½ hours

the results will certainly not suffer if you use good-quality store-bought bacon instead. While lean this isn’t, each pint jar contains about 21 grams of protein. The acidic tomatoes and cured, smoky meat will keep for ages in the refrigerator.

2 pounds plum tomatoes



1 medium yellow onion (about 6 ounces)



2 tablespoons neutral oil

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

9 ounces Bacon Extraordinaire, smoked (page 68), or store-bought smoked bacon (about 7 thick-cut slices)



2 teaspoons brown sugar



1 teaspoon dried thyme



½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper



¼ teaspoon piment d’Espelette (French ground red chile pepper; optional)



2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar

1. Preheat your oven to 350°F (180°C). 2. Cut the tomatoes in half horizontally. Use your fingers to remove the juice and seeds from inside the fruit. Trim the onion and cut it into eight half-moons, leaving the wedges intact. 3. Arrange the tomatoes and onion on a large rimmed baking sheet, then toss with the oil and ¾ teaspoon of the salt. Spread everything in a single layer with the tomatoes cut side up. Place the baking sheet in the center of the oven and roast for 1½ to 2 hours, until the tomatoes and onions are fragrant and a little dark around the edges.

Recipe continues on next page

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Bacon, Roasted Tomato, and Onion Spread (continued) 4. Meanwhile, fry the bacon in batches in a large skillet over medium heat until brown on both sides, 6 to 8 minutes per batch. Drain the cooked bacon on paper towels.

STORAGE

In the refrigerator, this will keep for at least 2 weeks. Covered tightly and frozen, it will keep for at least 4 months.

5. Combine the tomatoes, onions, bacon, and any juices from the baking sheet in a food processor. Pulse to mix. Add the sugar, thyme, pepper, piment d’Espelette (if using), vinegar, and remaining ¾ teaspoon salt. Process to combine completely, leaving the mixture spreadable but a little chunky. Note that after cooling, the spread will thicken up. The spread is ready to eat immediately.

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SALT PORK MAKES

This unsmoked, uncooked, super-salty bacon must be cooked before

About 1 pound

being eaten. While it can be cooked and eaten on its own, its real

TIME

purpose in the kitchen is to add flavor and fat to slow-cooked food. Salt

1 week

pork is the backbone of Boston baked beans (page 75), New England

METHOD

I really like the warmth and fragrance salt pork gives to the pot, along

Dry Curing (see page 17)

clam chowder, and soul food collard greens. You can just use salt, but with all the other warm seasonings. You can use any scrap pieces of fatty pork — traditionally these scraps were taken on long sea voyages, covered in a giant barrel of salt and fished out when needed — but pork belly is much more widely available and is a great cut because of its meat-to-fat ratio.

3 tablespoons kosher salt



3 tablespoons dark brown sugar



1 teaspoon ground bay leaves



1 teaspoon ground cinnamon



¾ teaspoon ground nutmeg

1¼ pounds skinless pork belly

1. Combine the salt, sugar, bay, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a large shallow dish. 2. Cut the pork in half lengthwise so that you have two long pieces. Pat the meat dry with paper towels until it’s sticky. Press all sides of the pork into the salt mixture, really rubbing it in to get the mixture to stick to the pork.

3. Place each piece of pork in its own ziplock bag; roll and close the bag tightly to remove all of the air. Let the pork sit in the refrigerator for 1 week, flipping it once a day or so to redistribute the seasonings. The meat should feel stiff and cured after 7 days. 4. The pork is now ready to cook. If you wish to render some of its fat before cooking, simmer it for 20 minutes, drain, and then dry it completely before using.

STORAGE

The pork will keep in the refrigerator for 2 weeks. Wrapped tightly, it will keep in the freezer for several months.

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COOK IT

BOSTON BAKED BEANS This is one of those dishes that’s even better when (carefully) reheated

MAKES

the next day. Portable? Nope. Fast food? Definitely not. An outstanding

2 quarts

use for salt pork? Abso-freakin’-lutely. If you’ve never had homemade baked beans, you are hours away from having an ethereal relationship with navy beans. These are meant to be sweet, making them a great dish

TIME

1 day

to serve alongside smoky barbecue and tangy coleslaw. It’s amazing how just a small portion of meat can really stretch to flavor a whole mess of beans. This is a great way to use your homemade salt pork, but you can also purchase salt pork or slab bacon, or use the same weight of sliced bacon in a pinch.



1 pound dried navy beans



8 ounces salt pork (page 73) or slab bacon



1 large onion



1 large carrot



2 celery stalks



2 teaspoons kosher salt



3 garlic cloves, sliced thinly



¼ cup dark molasses



¼ cup dark brown sugar, plus more as needed



1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Salt and freshly ground black pepper Apple cider vinegar (optional)

1. Soak the beans overnight in enough water to cover by 2 inches. 2. Drain the beans and rinse them well. Preheat the oven to 310°F (155°C). 3. Heat an ovenproof Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Cut the salt pork into four big chunks and sear until golden brown on all sides, about 7 minutes, turning as needed. Remove the pork from the pot and lower the heat to medium. 4. Chop the onion, carrot, and celery into raisin-size pieces and add to the pot. Add the kosher salt and sauté until the onion softens, about 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic and sauté for 1 minute longer. Recipe continues on next page

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Boston Baked Beans (continued) 5. Pour about 2 cups of water into the pot and scrape up the delicious browned bits from the bottom. Crank the heat to high and stir in the molasses, brown sugar, and mustard until thoroughly combined. Add the drained beans and enough fresh water to cover them by 2 inches. Bring the mixture to a boil, cover tightly, and place the pot in the hot oven.

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6. Let the beans cook for about 7 hours, or until soft and tender. Stir the pot every couple of hours and add more water as needed. The beans should be somewhat thick and soupy. 7. Add salt and pepper to taste. If you’d like it sweeter, add more sugar by the teaspoon. For more acidity, add a tablespoon or so of apple cider vinegar.

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PORK RINDS MAKES

Here’s a surprise that potato chips don’t want you to know: pork rinds

About 1¾ pounds

have a whopping 17 grams of protein per 1-ounce serving. Of course,

TIME

About 14 hours

you’re more likely to buy pork rinds than to make them, but if you do find yourself in possession of some pig skin — say, left over from making your own Bacon Extraordinaire (page 68) or Salt Pork (page 73) — then you might wish to consider including homemade crispy, puffy pork rinds in your future. Making them is a two-step process: the skin is first slowly rendered of its fat, then it is flash-fried in hot lard or oil until it puffs and crisps. Feel free to use only salt as a seasoning, but a dash of sugar and ground chile makes these irresistible. These are delicious on their own, but they also lend heft and crunch to soups and salads when sprinkled on top. You will need a wok and a candy or deep-frying thermometer for this recipe.

2 pounds pig skin

About ¼ cup kosher salt

5 cups vegetable oil



2 tablespoons sugar



½ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper, or as desired

1. Preheat your oven to 200°F (90°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and place a wire rack on top of the paper. 2. Using a sharp knife, cut away as much fat as possible from the underside of the pig skin. Sprinkle the salt on both sides of the skin and place the skin on the prepared baking sheet, fat side down.

3. Place the baking sheet in the center of the oven and cook for 7 to 8 hours, until the fat is very soft and the skin starts to harden. Remove the skin from the oven and use a spoon to scrape away any remaining fat. Return the skin to the oven and cook for another 3 to 5 hours, until all of the fat has melted away and the skin is hard. 4. Once the skin is cool enough to handle, use your hands or kitchen shears to break the skin into 2-inch pieces.

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Pork Rinds (continued) 5. Heat the oil in a wok with a candy or deep-frying thermometer attached over medium-high heat until it reaches 360°F (182°C), 5 to 8 minutes. While you’re waiting, line a large baking sheet with clean paper bags, paper towels, or newspaper for draining, and have some long tongs ready. 6. Working in batches of about five rinds at a time (they will puff up to be much larger than their current size), carefully add the rinds to the oil and swirl them around until they puff dramatically, about 30 seconds. Remove them from the oil and let them drain in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet.

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7. Taste the pork rinds and season with additional salt if needed. If seasoning with sugar and cayenne, place the pork rinds in a large paper bag. Add the sugar and cayenne and shake the bag to evenly coat the rinds. Eat those delicious warm pork rinds immediately.

STORAGE

Puffed rinds will retain their crispiness for about 5 days when stored in a ziplock bag or container along with a tea bag or cheesecloth filled with a small amount of raw rice to help absorb the ambient moisture. The fully rendered hard skin (before frying) can be stored airtight in the refrigerator or freezer for up to 1 year.

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PORK BELLY CONFIT MAKES

While duck confit is a French classic of duck meat cooked and

About 1 quart

preserved in its own fat,the hefty fat content of pork belly makes it a fine candidate for fat curing as well. As with duck confit, making this is a

TIME

At least 4 days

two-step process: the meat is dry-rubbed in salt and seasonings to cure

METHODS

meat and help render some of its fat. The coconut oil here gives the pork

Dry Curing (see page 17); Fat Curing (see page 27)

it and add flavor, and then it is slowly poached in hot fat to tenderize the a lovely flavor. After curing, the meat is delicious when seared and served over steamed rice with wok-tossed greens or broccoli. Use every bit of the flavorful fat in place of oil or butter for cooking vegetables, frying eggs, searing meat, and more.

2 pounds skin-on pork belly



3 tablespoons kosher salt



2 tablespoons dark brown sugar



1 teaspoon ground cinnamon



¼ teaspoon ground cloves



¼ teaspoon dry mustard

About 30 razor-thin slices fresh ginger

6 large garlic cloves, sliced razor-thin

1–1½ cups extra-virgin coconut oil

1. Cut the pork into 2- to 3-inch chunks. 2. Combine the salt, sugar, cinnamon, cloves, and mustard in a small bowl. Rub the spice mixture on all sides of each piece of pork. Stud the pork with the ginger and garlic slices all over. Place the

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seasoned meat in a baking dish; it’s important to use a small dish that’s just large enough to hold the pork snugly in a single layer. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 days. 3. Preheat the oven to 200°F (90°C). 4. Brush away the garlic, ginger, and as much of the salt mixture as possible from the meat and discard. Return the meat to the dish. 5. Place the coconut oil in a heatproof measuring cup. To gently melt it, either put the measuring cup in the microwave for 10 seconds at a time, or submerge the measuring cup in a pan of warm water.

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6. Add enough coconut oil to the baking dish to just cover the surface of the pork. Place the pork into the oven and bake for 4 hours, or until tender when pierced with a fork. 7. Let the pork cool, then cover and let cure in the fat in the refrigerator for at least a few days before using. To serve, use a spoon to pull the pork out of the fat, then sear it on all sides.

STORAGE

You can let the pork cool in its baking dish with the fat covering it, then cover the dish with plastic wrap and store in the fridge. To save refrigerator space, you can also spoon the meat into a quart canning jar and then carefully pour the fat over the pork, pressing down on the meat as needed to submerge it completely. If completely covered in the fat, this meat will keep in the refrigerator for at least 6 months.

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ROUSONG (PORK FLOSS) MAKES

Rousong, pork floss, pork wool, meat floss, pork sung, pork fu — n o

4½ cups

matter what you call it, this savory Asian condiment adds a rich, salty flavor and the fluffy texture of cotton candy to any dish. Making it is a two-step

TIME

4½ hours

process that is lengthy but easy. The meat is simmered and braised until

METHOD

enjoyed on top of congee or jook, a rich rice soup, but it is also great

Pan-drying

incredibly tender, shredded, and then dried in a hot pan. It’s traditionally sprinkled on top of rice, noodles, tofu, pizza, or chocolate-covered bacon.

1 pound pork tenderloin, cut into 1½-inch chunks



6 cups water



½ cup soy sauce



¼ cup sugar



½ small, sweet apple



6 (¼-inch) slices fresh ginger



3 garlic cloves, smashed



1 star anise



2 tablespoons rice vinegar



¼ cup neutral cooking oil (like olive, avocado, sunflower, or safflower oil)

1. Combine the pork, water, soy sauce, sugar, apple, ginger, garlic, star anise, and vinegar in a large Dutch oven over high heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a low simmer. Cook the pork uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the pot contains just ½ inch or so of liquid, about 2½ hours. Then begin to stir

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the pot frequently to break up the meat, keep it from sticking, and help moisture escape. Increase the heat to medium and keep stirring until the bottom of the pot is dry, about 30 minutes longer. The meat should be completely fork-tender. (If it’s not, add another cup or so of water, cover, and let the meat gently simmer until completely fork-­ tender. Then remove the lid and let the liquid reduce completely.) 2. Remove the pot from the heat. Remove the ginger and any other remaining solids. Using a sturdy spoon, thoroughly shred the meat until there are no clumps. 3. Return the pot to medium-high heat. Add the oil and stir the meat to coat. Keep stirring and mashing and scraping the bottom of the pot until the meat is completely dry and flossy, 8 to 13 minutes. Your rousong is ready to eat.

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STORAGE

Spread out the rousong on a rimmed baking sheet to let it cool completely before storing. If you realize after cooling that it’s not completely dry, return it to the

pot and dry it further, then let it cool again. Store your rousong in an airtight container or a ziplock bag at room temperature for 4 months, or longer.

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NEW ORLEANS–STYLE PICKLE MEAT MAKES

Some people bring ham hocks, tasso, or smoked sausage to the bean

About 2 pounds

pot, and all meat flavorings are welcome. But in many Louisiana kitchens, proper red beans and rice (page 85) requires a healthy hunk of pickle

TIME

4–14 days

meat, also called pickled pork, for flavor and succulence. Historically, this

METHOD

meat. Today, you can purchase a chemical-laden version, but this far

Brine Curing (see page 20)

preserved meat comprises the bits and ends not usually eaten as fresh more flavorful small-batch version is easy enough to make at home.

¼ cup kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground bay leaves



½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper



½ teaspoon dry mustard



½ teaspoon ground allspice



¼ teaspoon ground cloves



1 large yellow onion



2 pounds pork shoulder, cut into 2½-inch cubes

1–2 cups apple cider vinegar 1–2 cups water

1. Combine the salt, bay, pepper, mustard, allspice, and cloves in a small bowl. 2. Peel the onion, cut it into quarters, then slice it as thinly as possible. Scatter half of the onion in a square baking dish just large enough to hold the meat in a single layer. 3. Roll each cube of pork in the spice and salt mixture and pack the

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pieces tightly on top of the onion. Scatter the other half of the onion on top and press it down to compress the meat and onion. 4. Combine 1 cup of the vinegar with 1 cup of the water. Gently pour the brine into the baking dish until it just covers the meat and onions. (Use the remainder of the vinegar and water if needed.) Cover the dish tightly with plastic wrap and leave it in the refrigerator for at least 4 days and up to 2 weeks. 5. To use the meat, discard the onions and remove the meat from the brine; do not rinse. Cook the meat, stewed thoroughly in a bean pot or simmered with greens, before eating.

STORAGE

Store the pickle meat in its brine in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, or wrapped airtight, without the onion and the brine, in the freezer for several months.

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COOK IT

RED BEANS AND RICE WITH PICKLE MEAT Red beans and rice is the chicken soup of the Louisiana soul — hearty,

MAKES

homey, and delicious. The warm spices of the pickled meat make this

About 3 quarts

dish fragrant and complex, but you can also substitute smoked sausage. This is one bean dish where canned just won’t cut it. This preparation traditionally contains small red beans, but if you can’t find them, you can

TIME

1 day

substitute dark red kidney beans. Eat this on its own, over rice, or with corn bread or crusty French bread.

1 pound dried red beans or dark red kidney beans



3 tablespoons bacon fat or extra-­ virgin olive oil



2 pounds New Orleans–Style Pickle Meat (page 84) or 1 pound smoked sausage



5 celery stalks



2 medium green bell peppers



1 large yellow onion



1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed



5 garlic cloves, finely minced



2 large dried bay leaves



1 teaspoon dried thyme



½ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper



½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish Chopped scallions, for garnish

1. Wash the beans and let them soak overnight or for at least 8 hours. Drain and rinse them well, then set aside. 2. Heat the bacon fat in a large Dutch oven over high heat for 1 minute. Add the meat to the pot in a single layer with space between the pieces. Let it brown, undisturbed, for 3 to 4 minutes per side. The meat will release easily from the pan when it’s ready to be turned. Once the meat is brown on all sides, remove it from the pot and set it aside. 3. Chop the celery, peppers, and onion into bean-size pieces. Add the onion and 1 teaspoon of the salt to the pot. Stir to coat the onion and cook until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the celery and peppers and cook, stirring often, until the Recipe continues on next page

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Red Beans and Rice with Pickle Meat (continued)

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vegetables soften and turn a bit brown, about 6 minutes longer. Add the garlic and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute.

5. Add the pepper and then season with salt to taste. Garnish with the parsley and scallions just before serving.

4. Add about 2 cups of water and scrape up all of those delicious brown bits from the bottom of the pot. Add the beans, meat, bay, thyme, and cayenne and stir to combine. Add enough water to cover everything in the pot by 2 inches and bring the liquid to a boil. Adjust the heat as needed to maintain a low simmer and cook until the beans are tender, about 4 hours. Do not boil, or else the meat will get tough.

STORAGE

Refrigerate and eat within 1 week. Or store in an airtight container and freeze for several months.

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BAK KWA (CHINESE-STYLE DRIED PORK) MAKES

8 ounces

Talk to anyone from Singapore, Malaysia, or parts of China about this traditional New Year’s street food and you will immediately get oohs and ahhs. Heavily spiced ground pork is dried into a large sheet of salty

TIME

About 6 hours

and sweet meat leather, which is then cut into squares and finished over a charcoal grill. Traditional preparations often call for red food coloring,

METHOD

but we’re going to skip that. Because there is ground meat involved,

Drying (see page 22)

take extra precaution with cleanliness, and make certain that the meat is thoroughly dried and then cooked until very hot before serving. If you have difficulty finding some of the Asian ingredients in your local grocery store, you will be able to purchase them online.

1 pound ground pork



2 tablespoons dark brown sugar



½ teaspoon five-spice powder



¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper



2 tablespoons fish sauce



2 tablespoons Shaoxing cooking wine, sake, or dry sherry



4 teaspoons soy sauce



2 teaspoons sriracha



½ teaspoon toasted sesame oil

Neutral cooking oil (like olive, ­avocado, sunflower, or safflower oil) for the rack

1. Preheat your oven to 200°F (90°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Combine the pork, sugar, fivespice powder, pepper, fish sauce,

wine, soy sauce, sriracha, and sesame oil in a large bowl. Mix thoroughly with clean hands. 3. Pour the meat mixture onto the baking sheet and press the meat into a thin, even layer that covers the entire pan. If you have an offset spatula, this is a great time to use it. Take your time here, as it is important that the meat is spread in an even layer. 4. Place the baking sheet in the oven. If you don’t have a convection oven, stick a wooden spoon in the oven door to let moisture escape. Dry the meat for about 3½ hours. You will see fat bubble up to the top, but the meat itself should be quite dry and one cohesive piece.

Recipe continues on next page

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Bak Kwa (continued) 5. Lightly oil a cooling rack. Remove the tray from the oven and carefully invert the sheet of meat onto the rack, peeling off the parchment. Lay a clean sheet of parchment or aluminum foil on the bottom of the sheet pan to catch any drips, and move the rack onto the pan. What was formerly the bottom of the bak kwa is now on top, with the rack beneath it to let air circulate. Return the baking sheet to the oven, replace the spoon, if using, in the door, and let the meat dry for another 2 hours, or until fully dry.

7. When you’re ready to eat the bak kwa, cook it on a grill over a hot fire, or in a skillet or stovetop grill pan over medium-high heat, until fragrant and lightly charred, 1 to 2 minutes per side.

STORAGE

You may store cut rectangles of dried bak kwa in a ziplock bag or airtight container in the refrigerator for several weeks, or double-wrapped in the freezer for several months. Don’t grill the bak kwa until you’re ready to serve it.

6. Use paper towels to blot the bak kwa on both sides and let it cool completely. Use a pizza cutter or sharp knife to cut the sheet into large rectangles, about 2 by 4 inches.

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COPPIETTE (ROMAN-STYLE DRIED PORK) MAKES

I hear that this dried meat was traditionally hung to dry in front of the

About 1 pound

fireplace at the local tavern. Pork loin can be sold under a number of names, including center-cut pork roast, center-cut loin, and center-cut

TIME

About 3½ days

rib roast. Essentially, you want a large hunk of lean, boneless pork. It will

METHODS

removed for drying). And while I’m not usually a big fan of garlic powder,

Dry Curing (see page 17); Drying (see page 22)

sometimes have a large fat cap on one side (delicious for roasting, but it works here because its flavor permeates the meat during the long drycuring time and stays flavorful even after the dip in red wine. (See photo on page 41.)

2 pounds pork loin



2 tablespoons kosher salt



1 teaspoon dried oregano



1 teaspoon red pepper flakes



1 teaspoon garlic powder

1½ cups dry red wine Neutral cooking oil (like olive, avocado, sunflower, or safflower oil) to lightly oil the rack (for oven drying)

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tightly into the bowl and cover the bowl with plastic wrap. Let it sit in the refrigerator for 3 days. 3. Pour the wine into a shallow bowl. Dip one piece of meat at a time into the wine to cover it completely, then let the wine drip back into the bowl. Lay the meat out on a rack. Now it’s time to dry the meat either in the oven or with a food dehydrator.

1. Cut away any fat from the meat and cut the meat into long, thick pieces (about ¾ inch thick and 6 inches long). Pat the meat dry all over with paper towels.

DRYING IN AN OVEN

2. Combine the salt, oregano, pepper flakes, and garlic powder in a medium bowl. Drop the meat into the bowl and, using your hands, massage it vigorously to rub the cure into the meat. Once it is coated evenly all over, pack the meat

2. Lightly oil a cooling rack and place it on top of the lined baking sheet. Lay the marinated meat on the rack completely flat. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly.

1. Preheat your oven to its lowest setting. Position one rack in the middle of the oven. Line one baking sheet with parchment paper.

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Air Drying You can air-dry the meat, but in terms of food safety standards, this is frowned upon by the USDA. People simply hang the meat with a fan blowing beneath it to keep the air circulating and help keep insects at bay. This method takes 3 to 4 days to dry and age the meat, depending on its thickness and the weather. If you choose this method to dry your meat, to be absolutely certain your coppiette is free of contaminants before serving it, heat the dried meat in a preheated 275°F (140°C) oven for at least 10 minutes, or until it reaches an internal temperature of 160°F (70°C).

3. Place the baking sheets in the oven. If you don’t have a convection oven, wedge the oven door open with a wooden spoon handle. Depending on your oven, the weather, and the thickness of the meat, your coppiette will be done in 5 to 9 hours. The coppiette is ready when it feels very firm all the way through. Cut into a thick piece to check. It should look cured all the way through.

DRYING IN A FOOD DEHYDRATOR

Lay the marinated meat on the rack completely flat. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly. For maximum food safety, dry the meat at 160°F (70°C) for 4 to 7 hours, depending

on your machine, the weather, and the thickness of the meat. The coppiette is ready when it feels very firm all the way through. Cut into a thick piece to check. It should look cured all the way through.

STORAGE

Once it is cool, store your coppiette in a ziplock bag or an airtight container. While the meat will keep at room temperature for several days, it will keep longer (6 weeks or more) refrigerated. Doublewrapped and frozen, the coppiette will keep for several months. For best results, fill an empty tea bag or a small piece of cheesecloth with raw rice, close it securely, and place it inside the container to help absorb any residual moisture.

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4

POULTRY

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C

hicken, turkey, duck, and other edible birds aren’t as rich in preserving traditions as the larger barnyard animals. It stands to reason, really: it’s easy enough for a small gathering of people

to eat a whole fowl in one sitting; thus the need to preserve these animals was never as pressing. Still, there are some fabulous traditions and some creative new ideas in bird preserving that you will want to take a gander at here. Making and preserving your own chicken stock is ground zero for everything that’s delicious in the kitchen, from soups and stews to rice and braises. While some people simply freeze their stock, it is always convenient to have it on the shelf. This is one of the most compelling reasons to dive deeply into pressure canning. Having homemade stock on hand can become habit-forming. Classic duck confit is the Holy Grail of all that is confit. Tough duck parts are preserved, flavored, and tenderized, and the cooking fat that enrobes them is pure kitchen gold. And this chapter includes a couple of takes on turkey. The flavors of Thanksgiving are captured in a dried jerky, and there is a brined, smoked turkey breast that would make any sandwich proud. Spread your wings, and let your adventure into preserved poultry take flight!

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CHICKEN STOCK MAKES

Stock is the flavored broth of long-simmered bones and, often,

About 7 quarts

vegetables, and it is used as an ingredient. Soup is the flavored (with salt and herbs) finished dish made, quite often, using stock. There are

TIME

Up to 1 day

few dishes that aren’t improved by your own flavorful homemade

METHOD

cannot cure. For shelf storage, chicken stock must be pressure-canned,

Pressure Canning (see page 14)

chicken stock, and few physical ailments that homemade chicken soup but it’s also easy enough to portion the stock into small plastic containers and freeze it. If you freeze it, be sure to leave 1 inch of headspace at the top to accommodate the expanding liquid in the freezer.

4 pounds chicken bones, particularly backs and necks



2 carrots, coarsely chopped



2 celery stalks, coarsely chopped



1 yellow onion, peeled, whole, with the root end removed

1. Place the chicken bones, carrots, celery, and onion in a large stockpot and cover with 3 inches of water. Cover the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. A foam will rise to the surface of the pot; skim it off (and keep skimming, as more foam will form) with a metal spoon and discard it. Reduce the heat to low, until the stock is just occasionally giving off small bubbles. Cover and let the stock cook for a minimum of 2 hours, or up to 12 hours, stirring occasionally. The longer it cooks, the richer the flavor will be.

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2. Strain the stock through a colander or a fine-mesh sieve, pressing down on the solids to help them release all of their golden liquid. Discard the solids. Your stock is now ready to use or to store.

PRESSURE CANNING

1. Review the directions for pressure canning on page 14. Bring the strained stock to a boil. Fill the jars with the stock, leaving 1 inch of headspace at the top. Wipe the rims and add the lids and bands. 2. Set the jars of stock in the canner. Be sure to check your canner’s water level — there should be 3 inches of water. Then turn the heat to high and, once steam has started to stream out, vent your pressure canner for 10 full minutes (or follow the m ­ anufacturer’s instructions).

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3. For pint jars in a dial-gauge pressure canner, process for 20 minutes at 11 pounds of pressure. For quart jars, process for 25 minutes at 11 pounds. Add additional pressure as necessary for your elevation; see page 16 for details. For pint jars in a weighted-­ gauge canner, process for 20 minutes at 10 pounds of pressure. For quart jars, process for 25 minutes at 10 pounds. Add additional pressure as necessary for your elevation; see page 16 for details.

4. Follow the instructions for cooling the jars on page 16.

STORAGE

The stock will keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, or in the freezer for up to 6 months. Pressure-canned stock will keep for up to 1 year.

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DUCK CONFIT MAKES

Duck confit is a classic example of preserving food in fat. Tough, fatty

About 1 quart

duck legs are made moist, flavorful, and lean by a three-step process: a brief salt cure, a slow poaching in fat, and then long-term storage

TIME

At least 4 days

covered in rich duck fat to keep out air. This dish has many uses, from

METHODS

(see page 98). Once you’ve made duck confit, the fat can be melted,

Dry Curing (see page 17); Fat Curing (see page 27)

classic cassoulet to duck rillettes to a simple salad with endive and apple strained, and reused in perpetuity. It gets richer and more flavorful with every use and is a wondrous thing for cooking. Duck fat can be hard to find commercially, however. If your local butcher doesn’t carry it, order the good stuff online from farmfreshduck.com.

2 pounds duck legs (about 4)



4 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced



8 fresh thyme sprigs, torn into smaller pieces

Leaves from 1 fresh rosemary sprig

3 large dried bay leaves, crumbled



3 tablespoons kosher salt

2–2½ cups duck fat

1. Use a sharp knife to separate the duck drumsticks from the thighs. 2. Scatter half of the garlic, half of the thyme, half of the rosemary, and half of the bay in an 8-inch square pan. Sprinkle the duck with the salt on all sides, and place it in the dish. Place the remaining garlic, thyme, rosemary, and bay on top of the duck, and then press the

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herbs into the duck to flavor to the meat. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 days. 3. Preheat the oven to 200°F (90°C). 4. Unwrap the duck and discard the herbs and garlic. Brush off any excess salt (but don’t rinse the duck) and pour out any liquid that has accumulated in the bottom of the dish. Place the duck back into the dish. 5. Melt the duck fat by either heating it in the microwave for 10 seconds at a time or placing it in a heatproof jar and setting the jar in a pan of warm water. Once the fat has liquefied, pour it over the duck to just cover it.

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6. Place the duck in the oven and let it slowly poach for about 3½ hours, or until the duck is tender to the bone. If you’ve left the leg quarters whole, the legs should wiggle easily in their joints. 7. Let the duck cool, then cover and let cure in the fat in the refrigerator. The duck is ready to eat at any time, but the meat will become more moist and tender if it sits in the refrigerator for at least 1 week.

STORAGE

The meat must be kept covered by the fat, and the container should be tightly covered. You can store the confit in its fat in the baking dish, covered with plastic wrap. Or, to save space in the refrigerator, transfer the duck to a widemouthed quart canning jar and pour the fat over it to cover completely. Use a knife or chopstick to pop any air bubbles inside the jar. The confit will keep for at least 5 months.

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COOK IT

DUCK CONFIT, ENDIVE, AND APPLE SALAD MAKES



2 servings



1 small shallot, sliced as thinly as possible



3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil



3 tablespoons lemon juice (from 1 juicy lemon)



½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper



2 duck confit leg quarters (legs and thighs)



2 heads endive (about 8 ounces total)



1 medium tart apple

TIME

30 minutes

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1. Place the salt and shallot in a large salad bowl. Mash the salt into the shallot with the back of a sturdy spoon. Stir in a teaspoonful or so of the olive oil, then gradually add the rest, whisking until fully incorporated. Whisk in the lemon juice and the pepper. Set the dressing aside while you prepare the rest of the salad.

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2. Remove the duck from its fat, scraping off nearly all the fat from the outside. Cook the duck, top side down, in a large skillet over medium-­high heat for 5 to 7 minutes. Then turn the duck in the pan, cooking on all sides until all the skin is crisped, about 12 minutes total. 3. While the duck is cooking, chop the endive into bite-size pieces. Leave the skin on the apple, but remove its core. Slice the apple into thin half-moons. Toss the endive and apple in the bowl with the vinaigrette and spoon the salad onto plates. Top the salad with the warmed duck and serve.

STORAGE

Store leftover salad separately from the duck; it will keep for 1 to 2 days, covered, in the refrigerator. Wrap leftover duck tightly and keep it refrigerated for up to 1 week; re-crisp it before serving.

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DUCK BREAST PROSCIUTTO MAKES

This is about as effortless as home-cured meat can get. A little salt and

10–12 ounces

sugar now will yield you a whole lot of flavor later. Not only is the flavor

TIME

rich and fragrant, but the prosciutto also presents beautifully on a cutting

At least 1 week

board with crackers or crostini, aged cheese, pickles, and almonds. Save

METHOD

vegetables or pasta dishes, or serve it on a sandwich or a salad. It will be

Dry Curing (see page 17)

this for company, use it like you would pancetta to give flavor to roasted ready to eat after about 1 week, but I prefer to age it for 2 weeks or so in the refrigerator so that the texture is firmer.

2 duck breasts (about 8 ounces each)



½ cup light brown sugar



¼ cup kosher salt



2 teaspoons finely minced orange zest



2 teaspoons ground coriander



1 teaspoon ground sage



1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Diagonally score the skin side of the duck breasts by lightly drawing a very sharp knife across the skin and through the fat cap, making the cuts about ½ inch apart. Make a second set of diagonal cuts in the opposite direction so that the skin and fat are scored to make a diamond pattern. 2. Pat the breasts dry with paper towels until they are a bit tacky to the touch. Place them in a shallow dish that can hold the duck flat in a single layer.

3. Combine the sugar, salt, orange zest, coriander, sage, and pepper in a small bowl. Rub this cure all over both sides of the duck, including into the crevices of the skin. Place the duck back in the dish, skin side up. Cover the dish tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 4 days. After a day or so, you’ll notice a lot of liquid in the bottom of the dish; this is normal and expected. 4. Flip the duck breasts and cover the dish tightly with the plastic wrap again. Refrigerate for another 3 days. 5. At this point, the duck should have a dark red color and feel firm all over, like a well-done steak. This means that your meat is cured. If it still feels very soft, flip the meat again and let it sit for another day or two.

Recipe continues on next page

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Duck Breast Prosciutto (continued) 6. Preheat your oven to 200°F (90°C). Place a rack over a rimmed baking sheet. 7. To ensure that your duck is safe to eat, place it on the rack, fat side up, in the preheated oven. Heat the duck for about 25 minutes, or until it reaches an internal temperature of 160°F (70°C).

STORAGE

Wrap your finished duck breast in waxed paper or parchment paper and store it in the cheese compartment of your refrigerator. If it gets too firm and dried out, shield it from the elements in a well-sealed ziplock bag. Wrapped well, it will keep in the refrigerator for at least 6 months.

8. Rinse the duck well and pat it very dry. Slice it razor-thin before serving.

How to Zest Citrus Fruit This recipe, and undoubtedly many others that will cross your kitchen counter, asks for finely minced zest. Zest is the very thin outermost layer of the fruit — the part with color. The white part just beneath is the pith, and this stuff is bitingly bitter and lacks the delicious and flavorful oils of the thin skin. When zesting, do your best to include as little of the pith as possible. My favorite way to extract zest is with a Microplane. I don’t use many gadgets, but this is a goodie that’s both inexpensive and small to store. You will soon start using it for grating ginger, nutmeg, and chocolate for drinks, and for creating a snow flurry of cheese atop your pasta. If you don’t have a Microplane on hand, any grater will do. Rub the orange against the grate in short bursts, turning it frequently, as this is the best way to stay away from the dreaded pith. And if all you have is a vegetable peeler, go forth and peel thinly, then use a knife to mince the zest to smithereens.

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SMOKED TURKEY LEG MAKES

Ready the mustard! A few slices of this smoked turkey, a good slather of

1½ pounds

your favorite mustard, and fresh, toothsome bread makes for sandwich

TIME

About 2½ days

heaven. Making smoked turkey is a two-step process: first brining the meat, and then smoking it. The liquid brine helps the meat stay juicy, and the salt helps preserve it and adds flavor. I like using bone-in

METHODS

Brine Curing (see page 20); Hot Smoking (see page 29) or Cold Smoking (see page 32)

legs because they have nice flavor. A meat thermometer is highly recommended here, as it is the only way to truly determine whether the meat is thoroughly smoked and safe to eat.

6 cups water



¼ cup kosher salt



2 tablespoons sugar



5 garlic cloves, smashed



2 tablespoons black peppercorns

2½ pounds bone-in turkey leg or turkey leg quarters

1. Combine the water, salt, sugar, garlic, and peppercorns in a deep bowl or food-safe bucket or container and mix thoroughly to dissolve the salt and sugar. Submerge the turkey completely in the brine. Cover the bird with an inverted plate and weight the plate with rocks or a jar full of water to help keep the turkey below the brine line. Move the bucket to the refrigerator and let it sit for 2 days. 2. Discard the brine and all the solid ingredients and pat the turkey dry. Let it sit on a rack under a fan

to help it dry while you prepare the grill for hot or cold smoking. 3. If hot-smoking, smoke the turkey skin side up, with the thickest portion closest to the flame, until it reaches an internal temperature of 160°F (70°C) in the center of its thickest part and away from the bone. Note that you may need a second batch of coals after about 1½ hours, but the total cooking time should be 2 to 2½ hours. If cold-smoking, smoke the meat for 12 hours, then finish it in the oven at 250°F (120°C) or on a low-flame grill for about 1 hour, until it reaches an internal temperature of 160°F (70°C).

STORAGE

Wrap the cooked and cooled turkey tightly with a double layer of plastic wrap. Store in the refrigerator for up to 10 days or in the freezer for several months.

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THANKSGIVING TURKEY JERKY MAKES

If the thought of enjoying Thanksgiving flavors in the backwoods or

About 8 ounces

when snacking on the go is appealing to you, this is your jerky. Sweet, acidic cranberry and savory herbs flavor low-fat, high-protein dried

TIME

Up to 1½ days

turkey jerky and make it pinkish. Not included: dried nuggets of pumpkin pie and stuffing alongside.

METHOD

Drying (see page 22)



2 pounds turkey breast, trimmed of all fat



3 cups cranberry juice cocktail



2 tablespoons kosher salt



2 garlic cloves, minced



3 fresh rosemary sprigs, cut into pieces, plus more for finishing



3 fresh sage sprigs, cut into pieces, plus more for finishing

DRYING IN AN OVEN

1. Preheat your oven to its lowest setting. Position one rack in the middle of the oven and one rack on the bottom. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

1. Freeze the meat for 30 minutes to make it easier to slice thinly. With a very sharp knife, slice the meat against the grain as thinly as you possibly can (⅛ to ¼ inch thick).

2. Lightly oil two wire cooling racks and place them on top of the lined baking sheets. Lay the marinated meat on the rack completely flat. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly. Sprinkle the meat with some of the leaves from the remaining fresh herbs.

2. Pour the cranberry juice into a large bowl and add the salt, garlic, rosemary, and sage. Add the meat. Mix to combine, cover, and let the meat marinate in the brine in the refrigerator for 12 to 24 hours.

3. Place the baking sheets in the oven. If you don’t have a convection oven, wedge the oven door open with a wooden spoon handle. Depending on your oven, the weather, and the thickness of the

Neutral cooking oil (like olive, avocado, sunflower, or safflower oil) to lightly oil the racks (for oven drying)

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3. Drain the meat, discarding the brine and all of the solids. Now it’s time to dry the meat.

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meat, your jerky will be done in 3 to 8 hours. Start checking the jerky after 3 hours. It’s ready when you’re able to bend a piece of jerky and it breaks.

DRYING IN A FOOD DEHYDRATOR

Lay the marinated meat on the rack completely flat. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly. Sprinkle the meat with some of the leaves from the remaining fresh herbs. Dry the meat at 160°F (70°C) for 3 to 10 hours, depending on your machine, the weather, and the thickness of the meat. Start checking the jerky after 3 hours. It’s ready when you’re able to bend a piece of jerky and it breaks.

STORAGE

While your dried jerky is still warm, blot it with paper towels to remove any fat that may be sweating on the surface. Let it cool, then store your jerky in a ziplock bag or an airtight container. While the jerky will keep at room temperature for several days, it will keep longer (6 weeks or more) refrigerated. Double-wrapped and frozen, the jerky will keep for several months. For best results, fill an empty tea bag or a small piece of cheesecloth with raw rice, close it securely, and place it inside the container to help absorb any residual moisture.

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5

BIG FISH

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M

ost of us have never tasted the real pleasures of homecanned fish or homemade cured and smoked fish. The tides must turn on this unfortunate culinary fact. I encourage you

to explore the riches that come from preserving your own fish. I know it seems intimidating: fish are scaly, full of innards, and, depending on where you live, sometimes hard to come by. While in some cases I recommend starting with a whole fish (hello, weekend angler!), in most cases it is perfectly acceptable to also start these recipes with fillets. This chapter covers big fish (think tuna and salmon), which sometimes entails large-scale preserving. If you’re not sure you like the taste of fish, I’d recommend the Salmon Jerky (page 122) or the HotSmoked Fish (page 113) made with something mild, like trout or halibut. To help ensure that our oceans continue to have fish, it’s a good idea to eat fish that is sustainably harvested. The Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program is an excellent resource. When buying fresh fish for preserving, choose fish that does not have a strong fishy odor. If you’re buying fillets, the flesh should appear to glisten. If you’re buying whole fish, look at the eyes; they should be clear and not cloudy. Frozen fish is a decent second choice. Confirm that the country of origin is a sustainable choice, and avoid products that look icy or that sport dark patches of freezer burn. Also avoid any products that appear to have weeped liquid, which is a sign of partial thawing.

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How to Fillet a Fish Okay, I know this is weird. And I don’t understand it. But there is something about gutting fish that I find enjoyable, meditative, and relaxing. In an episode of The Simpsons from long ago, Bart Simpson works in a fish factory in Osaka and speaks this mantra: “Knife goes in, guts come out. Knife goes in, guts come out.” I can completely relate. Cleaning fish is work; if this is too icky for you, a quality fishmonger will probably do the deed for you. But if you’re interested, you can get really good at this skill with practice. And, of course, you can always purchase fillets from the grocery store or seafood market for most of the recipes in this book. Only work with a sharp knife, or else you will make a smoothie of the tender fish flesh. Have patience; you may end up with some ugly fillets at first. They will still taste good, and you will develop your skill over time. Clear the countertop, clean out the sink, put on your apron, and apologize to fish everywhere. We’ve got fish to gut. 1. Remove the scales. This is a messy job, and one that you might want to do outdoors if possible. Hold the fish firmly and use your knife to very thoroughly scrape off

108 

the scales from the tail to the head, ideally under running water. Be sure to scrape off the scales at the top near the fins and on the underbelly. Flip the fish and scrape the scales off the other side. Check your work thoroughly by rubbing your fingers up the fish. Scales are not fun to eat. 2. Now slit the belly. Hold the fish in place firmly. With a dry, sharp knife, make a horizontal incision from the fin near the tail up the belly of the fish, sliding the knife in a smooth cut toward the bottom of the head. 3. Remove the guts. Welcome to everyone’s favorite part. Pull out all the solid bits and knobs from inside the fish and discard them. Rinse the inside of the fish really well to get a better look. Be sure to remove anything red or black and to rinse the fish thoroughly. 4. Remove the head. In small fish, it’s easy enough to tug up on the head to remove it and then keep gently tugging to pull out the backbone and tail in one fell swoop. For larger fish, simply cut off the head from behind the gills. 5. Free the fillet from its backbone. Hold the fish down firmly. Using a dry, sharp knife, hold the fish very steady with one hand, and then horizontally slice the fillet

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off the backbone, getting as close to the backbone as you can. Move your knife in smooth, broad strokes toward the tail. Flip the fish and slice off the remaining fillet on the second side; the second side is usually trickier because the fish is less stable. This step is the most challenging of the cleaning process, but it’s one that you will get the hang of with practice. 6. Remove the bones. This step isn’t necessary for tiny fish. But for big fish, the trick here is to get out the bones without tearing up the delicate fish flesh. Invert a large mixing

bowl and lay the fish over the bowl so it arcs; this position will make it easier for the bones to pop up. Using tweezers, culinary pliers, or your fingers, pull away all the tiny bones. 7. Skinning is optional. I really love crispy salmon skin and trout skin. But if you’re making crudo or ceviche, you might want to remove the skin (and if you do, by all means, fry it up separately!). Hold the filleted fish by the tail, with the skin end up. Use a dry, sharp knife in broad, smooth strokes to separate the flesh from the skin, holding on tightly to the tail.

To fillet a fish, keep your knife dry and cut with smooth, broad knife strokes.

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COLD-CURED GRAVLAX MAKES

Have a hankerin’ for some briny, cured seafood made with very little

12 ounces

effort? Hold on to your bagels, folks, because this is a recipe you’ll return to again and again for its simplicity and delicious results. Fresh

TIME

3 days

salmon is rubbed with sugar and salt to help it stiffen and cure; fresh dill

METHOD

entirely worth it. Eat this with eggs, on toast or bagels with cream cheese

adds herbaceous flavor. Yes, it’s a three-day wait, but the payout will be

Dry Curing (see page 17)

and capers, or on a toothpick with a pickle.

1 pound skin-on salmon fillet, ­preferably of even thickness



3 tablespoons kosher salt



3 tablespoons sugar



2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper



1 large bunch fresh dill, stems trimmed

1. Pat the salmon dry with paper towels. Let it sit in the refrigerator, uncovered, for about 30 minutes. The exterior of the fish should be dry and feel a little sticky. 2. Combine the salt, sugar, and pepper in a small bowl. Rub this mixture all over the fish, concentrating on the fleshiest part but also including the sides and the skin. Lay the fish, skin side down, on top of a large piece of plastic wrap. Lay the dill on top of the flesh and press it into place.

110 

3. Wrap the fish and the dill tightly in the plastic wrap, then wrap it again, making a tight package. Place the wrapped fish, skin side down, inside a ziplock bag or a shallow dish, as it may release some liquid as it cures. Place a flat 1-pound weight on top of the fish, such as a dinner plate with a bag of rice or beans on top. Allow the fish to cure in the refrigerator for 3 days. 4. Unwrap the fish and discard the dill. Rinse the fish and pat it dry. The National Center for Home Food Preservation recommends heating the fish to an internal temperature of 140°F (60°C). I must admit, however, that though this is the safest practice, it will completely change the silky texture of the fish. Nevertheless, preheat your oven to 200°F (90°C). 5. Place a rack on top of a baking sheet. Place the gravlax on the rack and heat in the oven for about 20 minutes, or until it reaches 140°F (60°C) at its thickest part.

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6. To serve, slice long, thin pieces against the grain of the fish. I find it easier to slice the whole thing at once, but this is up to you. Note that after curing, the skin gets sort of flabby.

STORAGE

Keep the fish, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Wrapped airtight, it can be frozen for up to 3 months.

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HOT-SMOKED FISH MAKES

Fish on the grill can be delicious. But fish cooked low and slow with

1½ pounds

plenty of smoke is the stuff that dreams are made of. Even if you don’t

TIME

have a grill or a backyard, you can buy an inexpensive grill and have a

About 2 hours

smoking party with friends at a park. A meat thermometer is the most

METHOD

crackers or bread, or top a salad with it, either crumbled as is or mixed

Hot Smoking (see page 29)

accurate gauge of the fish’s doneness. Eat this delicacy hot or cold, on with a squeeze of lemon and mayonnaise. You may use other fresh, firm fish instead of the salmon or trout, if you like.

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar



2 tablespoons kosher salt



½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper



½ teaspoon piment d’Espelette (French ground red chile pepper) or other pure ground chile powder (optional)



2 pounds skin-on salmon or trout fillets, preferably of even thickness

1. Combine the sugar, salt, pepper, and piment d’Espelette, if using, in a small bowl. Dry the fish thoroughly and rub it with the seasoning. Let it sit, uncovered, in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

3. When the grill is ready for smoking, smoke the fish until the internal temperature reaches 140°F (60°C); the timing will depend on the thickness of the fish, but start checking after 1 hour. If you aren’t using a thermometer, poke inside the thickest part of the fish; it should flake and appear opaque. 4. Allow the fish to cool a bit before serving.

STORAGE

Stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator, this fish will keep for at least 10 days.

2. Preheat the grill and prepare your wood chips or sawdust.

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COOK IT

KILLER SMOKED FISH SALAD MAKES

2½ cups TIME

20 minutes

Smoked fish is outstanding on its own, tossed into pasta, or atop a cold salad, but it also shines in a creamy salad. Whether you’re starting with homemade or store-bought fish, this is your go-to, company-ready preparation. Try this with any firm fish with great flavor, such as smoked salmon, trout, or halibut. Add salt and pepper to taste at the end; the saltiness of smoked fish can vary considerably. Serve it with crackers or crusty bread, or scoop it on top of romaine lettuce and sliced radishes.

1 cup sour cream



2 teaspoons prepared mustard



¼ cup finely minced red onion



¼ cup finely minced celery



¼ cup finely minced fresh dill



2. Fold in the fish. Coat it completely with the sour cream mixture, but don’t mash it.

1 teaspoon finely minced lemon zest

12 ounces smoked fish, flaked into walnut-­size pieces Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

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1. Thoroughly combine the sour cream, mustard, onion, celery, dill, and lemon zest in a medium bowl.

3. Taste the salad and add salt and pepper if needed, then enjoy.

STORAGE

Covered in the refrigerator, this salad will keep for up to 1 week.

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BACALAO (SALTED AND DRIED COD) MAKES

Cod preserved for the long haul is a staple food of nearly any seafaring

1–1½ pounds

country with a history of lengthy boat travel — Portugal, Spain, Italy,

TIME

Greece, and Scandinavia among them. Fresh fish is first cleaned and

About 8 days

then doused in salt to pull out the vast majority of its moisture. The fish is

METHODS

the dried fish must first be reconstituted in several changes of fresh

Dry Curing (see page 17); Drying (see page 22)

then dried to extend its shelf life by months and even years. For bacalao, water to remove the salt over a couple of days. The flavor and texture of bacalao is a necessary and delicious part of Portuguese salt cod fritters, Italian stewed bacalao with tomato sauce and capers, and Spain’s Basque stewed bacalao with olive oil.



2 pounds cod fillets, ½–¾ inch thick



2 pounds kosher salt

1. Cover the bottom of a rimmed baking dish (large enough to hold the fish in a single layer) with enough salt so that you can’t see through to the bottom. Lay the fish fillets on top, not touching, in a single layer. Pour salt over the top of the fish to bury it completely and press down on the salt gently to make sure the entire fish is covered. 2. Place the fish in the refrigerator and let it cure in the salt, uncovered, for 4 days, or until it feels stiff and cured. Check the fish by uncovering one piece and feeling it at its thickest part. 3. Remove the fish from the salt but retain any of the salt that

naturally clings to the surface. Discard the remaining salt left in the dish. 4. It’s time to dry the fish. I recommend that you do this in a food dehydrator, as the process is lengthy. Dry the fish at 140°F (60°C) until it is rock-hard, about 3 days, flipping it every 12 hours or so. 5. Before serving, soak the bacalao for 24 hours in enough cool tap water to cover it completely, changing the water every 8 hours. Drain the fish and pat it dry before cooking.

STORAGE

Store your dried bacalao wrapped tightly in waxed paper in the refrigerator, so it breathes and continues to dry out. It will keep for at least 1 year.

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COOK IT

BACALAO, TOMATO, AND OLIVE STEW MAKES

About 2 cups TIME

About 25 hours

Bacalao is a staple food of the Mediterranean,and for good reason: it stores like a champ, it has an assertive fishy flavor that goes well with bold ingredients like fresh herbs, garlic, tomato, and olive, and its texture is toothsome and meaty. And bacalao is versatile and easy to prepare, offering a lot of flavor for very little effort. It’s a rich dish, so a little goes a long way — this could easily be an appetizer for four people. Don’t forget the crusty baguette to help soak up every drop of the flavorful oil.

8 ounces bacalao (page 115)



½ cup extra-virgin olive oil



2 large fresh rosemary sprigs

10 kalamata olives

8 sun-dried tomato halves



2 large garlic cloves

Freshly ground black pepper

1 crusty baguette, for serving

1. To reconstitute the bacalao, soak it in enough cool tap water to cover it completely for 24 hours, changing the water every 8 hours. Drain the fish and pat it dry. 2. Preheat your oven to 325°F (160°C). 3. Pour the olive oil into an 8-inch square pan. Add the fish, skin side down. Lay the rosemary on top of

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the fish. Sprinkle the olives and the dried tomatoes on top. Roast the fish for about 40 minutes, or until the ingredients start to brown. 4. While the fish is cooking, thinly slice the garlic. Immediately after taking the fish from the oven, while the oil is still bubbling, sprinkle the garlic into the oil. 5. Let the dish rest for 10 minutes, then stir to coat everything in the oil and combine the flavors. Season with black pepper to taste. Spoon out small dishes of the stew with the flavorful oil and serve with the baguette.

STORAGE

Uneaten portions can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

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CANNED SALMON MAKES

Canning salmon may seem daunting, but it is one of the best reasons

Varies depending on what you start with

to own and use a pressure canner. Once a whole fish is cleaned of its head, tail, and fins, it is not necessary to fillet it; the bones and skin will

TIME

become soft enough to eat after processing — and the bones contain a

3–5 hours

good amount of calcium. (Review the directions on how to clean a fish on page 108.) Never can fish while it’s still frozen. If you’ve caught the

METHOD

Pressure Canning (see page 14)

fish yourself, be sure to clean it immediately. And if you’re starting with prepared fillets, then you’ve just saved yourself some time. How much fish to can depends on how many jars can be contained in your pressure canner. It just makes sense to maximize the canning process and get the most fish possible with your time. Note that these directions are only for canning salmon in pint or quart canning jars; no other jar should be used. I recommend widemouthed jars for this recipe, for easier packing. You may also use these directions for canning mackerel, steelhead trout, or trout. Note that crunchy crystals sometimes form in canned fish; know that these are perfectly safe to eat.

1 pound salmon fillets or cleaned fresh salmon for every pint jar, or 2 pounds for every quart jar



1 teaspoon kosher salt per pint jar, or 2 teaspoons per quart jar

1. Clean the widemouthed pint or quart canning jars and check for nicks and dents. 2. Cut the fish into any size that will pack tightly in the jars. Pieces that are 3½ inches wide are the

118 

easiest, but if you want smaller pieces, feel free. 3. Pack the jars tightly with the fish, leaving 1 inch of headspace. The skin can sometimes stick to the glass, so for easier cleaning, pack the jars with the skin on the inside. Add 1 teaspoon of salt per pint jar or 2 teaspoons per quart jar. Do not add any liquids. Wipe the rims clean and add the lids. Screw on the bands, but not supertight.

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4. Set the jars in the canner. Be sure to check your canner’s water level — there should be 3 inches of water. Then turn the heat to high and, once steam has started to stream out, vent your pressure canner for 10 full minutes (or follow the manufacturer’s instructions).

6. For pint jars in a weighted-gauge canner, process for 1 hour 40 minutes at 10 pounds of pressure. For quart jars, process for 2 hours 40 minutes at 10 pounds. Add additional pressure as necessary for your elevation; see page 16 for details.

5. For pint jars in a dial-gauge pressure canner, process for 1 hour 40 minutes at 11 pounds of pressure. For quart jars, process for 2 hours 40 minutes at 11 pounds. Add additional pressure as necessary for your elevation; see page 16 for details.

7. Follow the instructions for cooling the jars on page 16.

STORAGE

All jars that have safely sealed should be wiped down, labeled, and then stored for up to 1 year. Any jars that have not sealed properly should be refrigerated and used within 1 week.

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COOK IT

SALMON CROQUETTES MAKES

This was a staple dish of my mother’s mother. The amount of salmon

6 croquettes

always varies a bit in home-canned salmon, but this is a fairly difficult

TIME

20 minutes

recipe to flub. The only trick is to make sure you’ve used enough breadcrumbs to make the mixture stiff enough to hold its shape. These are delicious eaten warm or cold next to poached eggs and arugula, or made into a salmon croquette sandwich with mayonnaise and crisp lettuce on toasted bread. The croquettes are delicate, so handle them with a spatula, not tongs.

1 pint Canned Salmon (page 118), drained



½ cup breadcrumbs, cracker crumbs, or cereal crumbs, plus more as needed



⅓ cup finely minced fresh parsley



1 garlic clove, finely minced ⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 egg, lightly beaten



¼ cup milk



2 tablespoons mayonnaise



¼ cup neutral cooking oil (like olive, avocado, sunflower, or safflower oil)

Flaky finishing salt

2. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat for 1 minute. Use a ½-cup measuring cup to scoop a scant ½ cup of the salmon mixture. Use your hands to shape it into a patty ¾ to 1 inch thick, then place it in the pan. Cook three croquettes at a time, so as not to crowd the pan, until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes per side. Use a spatula to transfer the croquettes to a rack placed over paper towels to drain, and sprinkle with a pinch of the finishing salt before serving.

STORAGE

Wrap and refrigerate leftover croquettes. They will keep for up to 1 week.

1. Combine the salmon, breadcrumbs, parsley, garlic, pepper, egg, milk, and mayonnaise in a medium bowl. Mix with a fork until combined but not completely mashed and pasty.

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SALMON JERKY MAKES

Yes, fish can be jerky. I’m calling for salmon here, but trout or fresh tuna

About 12 ounces

is also delicious. You want a firm fish that will slice without falling apart. Leave the skin on, as it helps hold the slices together (it becomes entirely

TIME

4–10 hours

tender and edible once marinated and dried). Note that drying time

METHOD

minimum time. Feel free to give this marinade a whirl with beef as well.

Drying (see page 22)

will vary based on the thickness of the fish, so check your fish after the



2 pounds skin-on salmon fillets



4 large garlic cloves, finely minced



4 teaspoons finely minced fresh ginger



1 cup soy sauce



¾ cup pure maple syrup



¾ cup lemon juice (from 2 juicy lemons)

Freshly ground black pepper or red pepper flakes (optional) Neutral cooking oil (like olive, avocado, sunflower, or safflower oil) to lightly oil the racks (for oven drying)

1. Pat the salmon dry completely and freeze it for about 30 minutes to firm it up and make it easier to slice. 2. Meanwhile, combine the garlic, ginger, soy sauce, maple syrup, and lemon juice in a medium bowl.

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3. Slice the fish into long, ¼- to ⅓-inch-thick pieces. Slice against the grain for more tender jerky, or with the grain for firmer pieces. Add the fish pieces to the marinade and let them sit, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour at room temperature. 4. Pull the strips one by one from the marinade and lay them out to dry on paper towels in a flat, single layer. For a spicy kick, sprinkle the fish with black pepper or red pepper flakes. Now it’s time to dry the fish.

DRYING IN AN OVEN

1. Preheat your oven to its lowest setting. Position one rack in the middle of the oven and one rack on the bottom. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

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2. Lightly oil two wire cooling racks and place them on top of the lined baking sheets. Lay the marinated fish on the rack completely flat. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly. 3. Place the baking sheets in the oven. If you don’t have a convection oven, wedge the oven door open with a wooden spoon handle. Depending on your oven, the weather, and the thickness of the fish, your jerky will be done in 3 to 8 hours. Start checking the jerky after 3 hours. It’s ready when you’re able to bend a piece of jerky and it breaks.

STORAGE

While your dried jerky is still warm, blot it with paper towels to remove any fat that may be sweating on the surface. Once it is cool, store your jerky in a ziplock bag or an airtight container. While the jerky will keep at room temperature for several days, it will keep longer (6 weeks or more) refrigerated. Double-wrapped and frozen, the jerky will keep for several months. For best results, fill an empty tea bag or a small piece of cheesecloth with raw rice, close it securely, and place it inside the container to help absorb any residual moisture.

DRYING IN A FOOD DEHYDRATOR

Lay the marinated fish on the rack completely flat. Don’t let the pieces touch; allowing airflow in between pieces will help them dry more quickly. Dry the fish at 160°F (70°C) for 3 to 8 hours, depending on your machine, the weather, and the thickness of the meat. Start checking the jerky after 3 hours. It’s ready when you’re able to bend a piece and it breaks.

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CANNED TUNA MAKES

Unlike salmon, tuna is much better if you cook it first, refrigerate it, and

Varies

then prepare it for canning. Most of us won’t catch a massive whole tuna ourselves, but if you do, be sure to clean it immediately (see How to Fillet

TIME

1 day

a Fish on page 108). Never can fish while it’s still frozen. Note that these

METHOD

size should be used, but you can scale this recipe to can as many jars as

directions are only for canning tuna in pint canning jars; no other jar

Pressure Canning (see page 14)

can fit in your pressure canner. I recommend widemouthed jars for this recipe, for easier packing. Crunchy crystals sometimes form in canned fish; these are perfectly safe to eat. Most people prefer the taste of just the light tuna; the dark tuna has a much stronger, fishier flavor.

1 pound tuna fillet or cleaned fresh tuna per pint jar



1 teaspoon kosher salt per pint jar



¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil per pint jar, more or less as needed (optional)

1. Preheat your oven to 250°F (120°C). 2. Wrap the tuna in aluminum foil to keep it from drying out. Place the foil package on a baking sheet, then place in the oven. Cook for about 1 hour, or until the internal temperature at the thickest part of the flesh reaches 140°F (60°C). 3. Allow the fish to cool slightly after cooking and then refrigerate it for a couple of hours to firm the flesh.

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4. After the tuna has been cooked, it’s ready for canning. Clean the widemouthed pint jars and check for nicks and dents. 5. Peel off the tuna’s skin and remove any discolored flesh. If you only want the light tuna meat, cut away the dark meat as well. Cut the tuna into pieces large enough to pack very tightly into the jars. 6. Pack the jars tightly with the fish. Add 1 teaspoon of salt per jar. Cover the tuna with oil, if desired, or water, leaving 1 inch of headspace. Wipe the rims clean and add the lids. Screw on the bands, but not supertight.

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7. Set the jars in the canner. Be sure to check your canner’s water level — there should be 3 inches of water. Then turn the heat to high and, once steam has started to stream out, vent your pressure canner for 10 full minutes (or follow the manufacturer’s instructions). 8. In a dial-gauge pressure canner, process for 1 hour 40 minutes at 11 pounds of pressure. Add additional pressure as necessary for your elevation; see page 16 for details.

In a weighted-gauge canner, process for 1 hour 40 minutes at 10 pounds of pressure. Add additional pressure as necessary for your elevation; see page 16 for details. 9. Follow the instructions for cooling the jars on page 16.

STORAGE

All jars that have safely sealed should be wiped down, labeled, and stored for up to 1 year. Any jars that have not sealed properly should be refrigerated and used within 1 week.

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COOK IT

THE BEST TUNA SALAD MAKES

1 pound TIME

15 minutes

Use your own canned tuna or, if you like, you can just make lunch for yourself from a store-bought 7.5-ounce can of tuna; in that case, cut the amount of all of the remaining ingredients in half. I’m a big fan of everything in this salad, from the crunch, zing, and saltiness of the pickles and celery to the moistness of the mayo–olive oil combination that keeps the tuna from feeling overdressed. This is delicious in all the usual ways — in a sandwich or scooped onto a salad. But I also encourage you to try it on corn chips or tostadas.

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1 pint Canned Tuna (page 124)



¼ cup minced cornichons or other pickled cucumber



¼ cup minced celery



2 tablespoons capers in brine, undrained



⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper



2 tablespoons mayonnaise



2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil



2 teaspoons lemon juice

1. Drain the tuna and combine it with the cornichons, celery, capers, pepper, mayonnaise, olive oil, and lemon juice in a medium bowl. 2. Serve immediately, or store ­covered in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

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6

SMALL FISH

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Y

ou’ve probably heard the old adage that good things come in small packages. Diamonds, go-carts, hotel-size shampoo bottles . . . everything in miniature is better, for some reason. And

this is absolutely the axiom of tiny fish. Tiny fish are a fish-lover’s fish. They pack in a ton of flavor, they’re inexpensive, and they are usually more sustainable than their larger ocean cousins. But why preserve something so small? Because nature tends to give us a whole bunch of tiny fish all at once — more than we could ever eat fresh. Happily, tiny fish are much easier to preserve than their larger counterparts. Small fish can usually be scaled, beheaded, and gutted with little more than a butter knife and your fingers. And if you’re packing fish in oil, which I totally recommend, they store very easily in the refrigerator in a jar on the back of the shelf. The trick with the tiny guys, however, is finding them at the peak of their season. Fresh anchovies here in Northern California show up unexpectedly at the market in the spring. The herring here run only for a ­couple of weeks. They take some time to process, so I can only hope that when I cross paths with the tiny fish, I have the time to put them up. Cheers to the small, the mighty, and the fishy!

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PICKLED HERRING MAKES

I love every pickled fish I’ve ever met. Pickled herring is certainly an

About 1¼ pounds

acquired taste; if you’re not used to it, the flavor can seem particularly strong. But if you like pickles, and you like fish, I think you will find this

TIME

At least 1½ days METHODS

Brine Curing (see page 20); Pickling (see page 9) VA R I AT ION

For a Scandi­ navian twist to the herring, add to the brine a rounded tablespoon of toasted coriander seeds, 8 whole cloves, and a thinly sliced lemon layered with the onion and the fish.

insanely delicious. While herring is a good sustainable seafood, it has a short season. Sardines, mackerel, or whitefish are great pinch hitters in this preparation. Pickled herring makes a great appetizer on its own, and it’s excellent on top of toast, bagels, or green salad.

3 pounds herring, cleaned and filleted

FOR THE CURING SOLUTION

¼ cup kosher salt



4 cups water



4 dried bay leaves



1 tablespoon black peppercorns



1 small yellow onion, cut into ⅓-inch-wide strips

FOR THE BRINE

1 cup distilled white vinegar



¾ cup water



½ cup dry white wine



1 tablespoon sugar

1. Chop the fish into 2½- to 3-inch pieces and stack them in a quart canning jar. To make the curing solution, combine the salt and the water in a medium bowl, then pour it over the fish to cover it completely. Cover and let sit in the

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refrigerator to cure for 6 to 8 hours, until the fish is firm. 2. Drain the fish and discard the curing solution. In the bottom of a clean quart canning jar, layer the bay leaves and the peppercorns with the onion strips and the cured fish, ending with onion on top. Press down on the solids gently to pack them closely together. 3. To make the brine, combine the vinegar, water, wine, and sugar in a medium saucepan over high heat and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Bring the brine to a boil. Pour the boiling brine over the packed fish to cover by at least 1 inch. Cover, let cool to room temperature, then move the jar to the refrigerator. Allow the fish to pickle for at least 1 day before eating.

STORAGE

Kept fully submerged in the brine, this herring will keep in the refrigerator for several months.

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CREAMED HERRING MAKES

Some like their M&M’s with peanuts; some like them plain. Some insist

About 1½ pounds

that herring should be creamed, and so it shall be. Of course, I’m going

TIME

At least 1 hour

to recommend that you start with a jar of homemade pickled herring, but you could simply start with the store-bought stuff if you’re looking for a quick fix.

METHOD

Pickling (see page 9)

About 1 quart Pickled Herring (page 130)

2 cups sour cream

1. Drain the brine from the pickled herring and save half of the brine in a medium bowl. (Discard the remaining brine or save it for another use, such as marinade or salad dressing.)

3. Let the creamed herring sit, refrigerated, for at least 1 hour before eating.

STORAGE

Kept fully submerged in the brine, this herring will keep in the refrigerator for at least 2 months.

2. Combine the pickle brine with the sour cream, then pour this creamy brine back into the jar on top of the herring and onions.

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COOK IT

BAKED CHOPPED HERRING MAKES

This recipe is an excellent use for pickled herring. It is Depression-era

12 servings

cooking at its best, and my grandmother, Bubby Franks, used to make

TIME

About 1½ hours

this beloved family favorite often. This is her recipe, passed along to me from my Aunt Simmie, with some minor modifications (Weetabix instead of breadcrumbs or saltine crumbs and butter instead of margarine for better flavor). It is economical, eco-friendly, and pure nostalgia for fish lovers. Eat it warm from the oven or cold from the fridge, either with a fork and knife (as you would meatloaf) or as a spread on crackers (which makes it portable!). I know the cinnamon and sugar on top may seem at odds with the fish flavor, but trust me — they are as at home here as ketchup on meatloaf. 12 ounces Pickled Herring (page 130), drained, brine reserved

2 large celery stalks, trimmed and cut into quarters



1 medium apple, peeled, cored, and cut into quarters



2 eggs, lightly beaten



3 tablespoons butter, melted



2 Weetabix cereal wafers, crumbled, or ¼–½ cup breadcrumbs or cracker crumbs



½ teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper Ground cinnamon, for sprinkling Sugar, for sprinkling

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1. Preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C) and oil an 8-inch square pan. 2. Combine the drained herring (with its pickled onions), celery, and apple in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until the mixture is chopped and combined but still quite coarse. Scrape the mixture into a medium bowl. 3. Add the eggs and melted butter to the herring mixture. Add one of the crumbled Weetabix and stir until the mixture is somewhat stiff — it should hold its shape like the mixture for a meatloaf. If it’s still too wet, add additional Weetabix as needed. And if it gets

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too dry, add some of the pickle brine, 1 tablespoon at a time. Stir in the salt and season with pepper to taste. 4. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan and smooth the top evenly. Sprinkle it with cinnamon and sugar. Place on the middle rack in the oven and bake for about 50 minutes, or until the top is golden brown. 5. Let cool for 15 minutes before eating. Or cool and refrigerate until completely cold. Cut into squares and serve on its own or as a spread.

STORAGE

This will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for at least 1 week.

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PICKLED SHRIMP MAKES

Not only is this a snap to put together, but it’s also a beautiful and

About 1 quart

elegant appetizer ready to plate for company. This is a Southern favorite that often calls for a spicy kick. Feel free to add the kick if you wish, but

TIME

About 1 day

in my opinion the delicate shrimp get lost in the spice. Don’t forget to

METHOD

part of this pickle. You can use smaller shrimp if you wish, but just make

Pickling (see page 9)

eat the onion and celery along with the shrimp — they are an essential sure they’re fresh and high quality. A drizzle of good extra-virgin olive oil before serving can also work miracles. 6¾ cups water

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons kosher salt



1 pound large shrimp (about 14), shelled and deveined

10–12 thin lemon slices

¾ cup very thinly sliced red onion



¾ cup very thinly sliced celery



2 teaspoons black peppercorns



4 whole cloves



4 dried bay leaves



1 fresh tarragon sprig, chopped



¾ cup apple cider vinegar



1 large garlic clove, finely minced



2 tablespoons sugar

Extra-virgin olive oil, for serving

134 

1. Combine 6 cups of the water and 2 tablespoons of the salt in a medium saucepan over high heat. Bring to a rapid boil, then drop the shrimp into the water and cook, stirring often, until they are completely curled, about 2 minutes. Drain the shrimp, then rinse them under cold running water to stop the cooking. Let them drain and cool. Hang on to the pot, as we’ll use it again to make the brine. 2. Combine the shrimp, lemon, onion, celery, peppercorns, cloves, bay leaves, and tarragon in a medium bowl. Firmly pack the mixture into a quart canning jar. 3. Combine the remaining 2 teaspoons salt with the remaining ¾ cup water, the vinegar, the garlic, and the sugar in the medium saucepan. Heat over high heat until boiling, stirring to help dissolve the sugar and the salt. Pour the brine

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over the packed shrimp, making sure all the shrimp and vegetables are submerged. Cover the jar, let cool, and then refrigerate. 4. Allow the shrimp to marinate at least 4 hours in the refrigerator, but overnight (or longer) is best. Drizzle with olive oil before serving.

STORAGE

With all shrimp and vegetables fully submerged in the brine, these shrimp will keep for 2 to 3 weeks in the refrigerator. Note that if they sit for too long, their flavor will remain, but their texture will soften.

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CURED ANCHOVIES OR SARDINES MAKES

Fresh anchovies are hard to find. But when you are fortunate enough

About 1 quart

to find them, curing them this way produces something delicious that is a far cry from those packed anchovies you put in your pasta or Caesar

TIME

At least 2 days

salad. Fresh sardines (or other tiny fish) are also great in this fresh, briny cure. They are outrageously delicious atop crusty bread or crackers with

METHODS

Dry Curing (see page 17); Brine Curing (see page 20); Fat Curing (see page 27)

cold vodka, beer, or a minerally, light white wine.



3 pounds very fresh anchovies, sardines, or other tiny fish



⅔ cup kosher salt



2 cups white wine vinegar, plus more as needed



2 cups extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed



2 large garlic cloves, very thinly sliced



1 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)

1. Clean the fish following the directions on page 108 (this will take about 1 hour if the fish are really small). Rinse the fillets well and lay them on clean kitchen towels in a single layer to dry completely; pat dry until the surface is slightly tacky. 2. Pour the salt into a small rimmed dish and press each fish fillet into the salt to coat it completely on both sides. Pack the fish fillets tightly into an 8-inch square pan in layers, and top the fish with any of the remaining salt. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 12 hours.

136 

3. Drain the liquid but leave the salt on the fish. Cover the fish completely with the vinegar (adding more vinegar as necessary to submerge the fish). Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for another 12 hours. The fish will be quite firm. 4. Drain off the vinegar and discard it. Cover the fish completely with the olive oil (adding more as needed to make sure the fish are completely submerged). Cover with plastic wrap again and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, but ideally for a couple of days.

STORAGE

The fish will keep, submerged completely beneath the oil and tightly covered, in the refrigerator for at least 4 months. If you like, once the fish have firmed up in the oil for a few days, you can carefully transfer them to a quart jar with a lid, covering them completely with the oil, for easier storage. Sprinkle or toss with the garlic and pepper flakes when you are ready to serve.

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7

EGGS & DAIRY

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I

f you’re fortunate enough to have a genuine surplus of eggs and milk in your life, then this is your chapter. Compact in size, powerful in nutrition, easy to cook, and deli-

cious to eat, eggs are magical; they are truly a gift to protein lovers everywhere. The transformation of a cured egg can be amazing. Cured and pickled eggs have a texture that is unique; they become firmer and meatier. As with most other preserves, salt and/or vinegar is the key player here, and both yield unique results that must be tested and tasted to be believed. While I do not have a herd of cows at my disposal, I get stupidly ecstatic making my own simple dairy products, such as yogurt. I am genuinely surprised that it works every time — it feels more like magic than cooking. You’ll also see that I love to make a simple white cheese (or start with a store-bought cheese) and wash it in flavorful oil, which not only preserves the cheese but also adds complexity to its character.

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PRESERVED EGG YOLKS MAKES

Perhaps you’ve just whipped up a bunch of meringues, or an angel food

8 yolks

cake, or macaroons, and you find yourself with egg yolks to spare. Try salt-curing your bounty, and you will have a delicious secret ingredient at

TIME

About 4 days

the ready. Use them as you would Parmesan cheese for that same sort of

METHOD:

over avocado toast. You can also add flavors like cayenne or dried herbs

Dry Curing (see page 17)

savory, salty flavor: grate them over pasta or soups or stews, or sprinkle (powdery fine so as not to break the yolks) to the cure if you want to mix things up. Note that the recipe scales up or down well: plan on ¾ cup each of sugar and salt for every four yolks. 1½ cups sugar 1½ cups kosher salt

8 eggs

1. Combine 1 cup of the sugar and 1 cup of the salt in the bottom of an 8-inch square pan or container large enough to contain eight egg yolks without touching. 2. Use the back of a soupspoon to shape eight evenly spaced indentations in the salt and sugar cure. Don’t dig too deeply; you want every part of the bottom of the yolk to be touching sugar and salt. 3. In a separate dish, separate one egg. Carefully transfer the egg yolk into one of the indentations, and reserve the egg white for another use. Follow suit with the rest of the eggs, one at a time. It’s okay if you accidentally break a yolk, but it’s best to keep them intact.

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4. Gently pour the remaining ½ cup sugar and ½ cup salt on top of the yolks to form little mounds. Make certain that the yolks are c­ overed completely. 5. Cover the dish or container with a tight lid or plastic wrap. Carefully move it to the refrigerator and let the yolks cure for 4 days. 6. Preheat your oven to 200°F (90°C). 7. Take the dish from the fridge and remove all of the cured yolks; they will be firm enough to ­handle. Discard the salt and sugar and rinse the yolks to remove the extra cure.

8. Place a wire rack on a baking sheet. Place the yolks on the rack, then slide the pan in the oven. Let them dry and finish curing for 35 minutes. Your yolks are now ready to be used.

STORAGE

Keep the yolks wrapped in waxed paper in the cheese drawer; the longer they age, the harder and more cured they will become. Refrigerated, they will keep for at least 3 months.

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SALT-BRINED EGGS MAKES

Eggs are porous orbs. Their shells may look solid, but they’re not water­

6 eggs

tight. While you may be used to the idea of salting your cooked eggs, brining raw eggs in the shell in saltwater is a new frontier. The color of

TIME

At least 5 weeks

the egg yolks will brighten and their texture will become firm. The flavor

METHOD

cooked before being eaten. I find they are at their best when softly boiled

Brine Curing (see page 20)

is fascinating — salty, earthy, and unique. Note that these eggs must be for 6 minutes. Try them halved or chopped atop soups, stews, or rice.

6 eggs



¾ cup kosher salt



3 cups water

1. Place a 3-quart (or larger) container with a lid on a stable surface in a cool, out-of-the-way place away from direct sunlight. Carefully place the whole eggs inside the container, being careful not to break them as you go. 2. Combine the salt and water in a pitcher and stir until you have a cloudy brine. Gently pour the brine over the eggs to cover them completely. It’s important to keep the eggs below the brine line. If the eggs float, fill a ziplock bag with water and use it as a weight to gently submerge the eggs. 3. Allow the eggs to sit in the brine for at least 5 weeks. After 12 weeks, they will be too salty to enjoy. There won’t be any visual change in the eggs.

142 

4. To cook the eggs, place a small saucepan on top of the stove. Gently remove the eggs from the brine and carefully place them in the bottom of the pot (they’re still raw and they still could crack). Pour a pitcher of fresh water over the eggs to cover them completely. Cover the pot and cook over high heat until the water is boiling rapidly. Turn off the heat, keep the pot covered, and set a timer for 6 minutes. When the time is up, immediately drain the eggs and then run them under cold water until cool enough to handle. Use immediately, or refrigerate for up to 1 week. 5. To serve, gently roll an egg to crack the shell all over. Peel the egg. The white will be set but soft, and the yolk will be very firm and bright. Eat the eggs whole, split them in half lengthwise, or chop.

STORAGE

Once they are cooked, store the eggs in the refrigerator and eat within 1 week.

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SLIGHTLY SMOKY SOY SAUCE EGGS MAKES

You know those savory, tender hard-boiled eggs that bob in your bowl

6 eggs

of ramen? These are those eggs of your dreams, but with a nice little added

TIME

About 8 hours

twist: a tinge of smokiness and astringency from a potent and intoxicating Chinese tea. Eat these in soup, on top of rice, or simply out of hand on the go.

METHOD

Pickling (see page 9)



6 eggs

1½ cups water

1 cup soy sauce



2 tablespoons rice vinegar



2 tablespoons sugar



4 teaspoons lapsang souchong tea, in a tea bag or tea ball for easy removal

1. Carefully place the eggs in a single layer in a medium saucepan and cover with 2 inches of water. Cover the pot and cook over high heat until the water is boiling rapidly. Turn off the heat, keep the pot covered, and set a timer for 6 minutes. When the time is up, immediately drain the eggs and then run them under cold water until cool enough to handle. 2. Return the saucepan to the stove and add the water, soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, and tea. Bring this brine to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Turn off the heat and cover the brine to keep it warm. 3. Meanwhile, crack the eggshells for a marbled-looking egg, or peel

them completely for a smooth appearance and more soy sauce ­flavor. To crack an eggshell, gently rap its top and bottom against the countertop, then roll it along its side. If you’re peeling the eggs completely, for best results, start peeling the eggs from the large, round top, where you’ll notice a small pocket of space beneath the shell. 4. Place the cracked or peeled eggs in a 1½-quart canning jar. Discard the tea and pour the brine over the eggs to submerge them completely. If the eggs float, weight them down with a small ziplock bag full of water. 5. Cover the eggs and refrigerate for at least 6 hours to let them take on the flavor of the brine.

STORAGE

The eggs will keep, submerged and refrigerated in the brine, for up to 10 days, and refrigerated in an airtight container out of the brine for up to 5 days. Save the soy sauce brine, as it can be reused for at least one more batch of eggs.

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CURRY PICKLED EGGS MAKES

Like jerky, pickled eggs are portable, long-lasting, and full of protein

6 eggs

and savory, piquant flavor. The curry flavor here is light, but the sunny color of these beauties will make you return to them again and again.

TIME

At least 4 days METHOD

Pickling (see page 9)



6 eggs



2 tablespoons cumin seeds



2 teaspoons ground coriander

1½ cups water

1 cup apple cider vinegar



3 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled



3 thin slices fresh ginger



2 teaspoons ground turmeric



2 teaspoons black peppercorns



2 teaspoons kosher salt

1. Carefully place the eggs in a single layer in a medium saucepan and cover with 2 inches of water. Cover the pot and cook over high heat until the water is boiling rapidly. Turn off the heat, keep the pot covered, and set a timer for 6 minutes. When the time is up, immediately drain the eggs and then run them under cold water until cool enough to handle. 2. Dry the saucepan and return it to the stove. Add the cumin and the coriander and toast over medium heat, stirring frequently, until they become fragrant, about 2½ minutes. Immediately add the 1½ cups water

144 

to stop the cooking, then add the vinegar, garlic, ginger, turmeric, peppercorns, and salt. Bring the heat up to high and boil the brine. Once it reaches a rapid boil, turn off the heat and cover it to keep it warm and let the flavors steep. 3. Meanwhile, crack an eggshell by gently rapping its top and bottom against the countertop, then roll it along its side. For best results, start peeling the egg from the large, round top, where you’ll notice a small pocket of space beneath the shell. Follow suit with the rest of the eggs. 4. Place the peeled eggs in a 1½-quart canning jar. Pour the brine (including its solids) over the eggs to submerge them in the brine. 5. Cover the eggs and refrigerate for at least 4 days to let them take on the flavor of the brine.

STORAGE

Completely submerged in the brine and refrigerated, the eggs will keep for at least 3 weeks. The brine can be reused for at least one more batch of eggs.

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BEET PICKLED EGGS MAKES

Place these alongside the pretty yellow Curry Pickled Eggs (page 144)

6 eggs

and you have a beautiful, portable potluck item. Eat them whole with beer, slice them atop salads, or split them and make colorful deviled eggs.

TIME

At least 4 days METHOD

Pickling (see page 9)



6 eggs



1 very small red beet, peeled and quartered



1 garlic clove, smashed and peeled



2 teaspoons sugar



2 teaspoons kosher salt



1 teaspoon black peppercorns



½ teaspoon celery seeds



½ teaspoon dill seeds



¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)



2 whole cloves



1 small bay leaf

1½ cups water

¾ cup apple cider vinegar

1. Carefully place the eggs in a ­single layer in a medium saucepan and cover with 2 inches of water. Cover the pot and cook over high heat until the water is boiling rapidly. Turn off the heat, keep the pot covered, and set a timer for 6 minutes. When the time is up, immediately drain the eggs and then run them under cold water until cool enough to handle. 2. Combine the beet, garlic, sugar, salt, peppercorns, celery seeds,

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dill seeds, pepper flakes (if using), cloves, bay leaf, water, and vinegar in the saucepan over high heat. Bring this brine to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar and salt. Turn off the heat and cover to keep it warm. 3. Meanwhile, crack an eggshell by gently rapping its top and bottom against the countertop, then rolling it along its side. For best results, start peeling the egg from the large, round top, where you’ll notice a small pocket of space beneath the shell. Follow suit with the rest of the eggs. 4. Place the peeled eggs in a 1½-quart canning jar. Pour the warm brine (including all of the solids) over the eggs to submerge them in the brine completely. If the eggs stick to the side of the jar, shimmy or stir the jar to surround each egg with the brine. 5. Cover the eggs and refrigerate for at least 4 days.

STORAGE

Completely submerged in the brine and refrigerated, the eggs will keep for at least 3 weeks.

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SIMPLE WHITE CHEESE MAKES

If you have more milk than you know what to do withand you like simple,

6–8 ounces

fresh cheeses like Indian paneer, Mexican queso blanco, and Cyprus

TIME

2–6 hours

halloumi, then you are going to love this cheese. A candy or deep-frying thermometer is essential here, but they are relatively inexpensive and easy to store. For a firmer cheese, you’ll also need a small container with tiny holes stabbed into the bottom (hammering a thin nail a couple of times into a clean, recycled cottage cheese or sour cream container would work well) to press and shape the cheese, but this is optional.

1 gallon whole milk from any animal (not ultra-pasteurized)



½ cup apple cider vinegar or lemon juice (from 2 juicy lemons)



2 teaspoons kosher salt (optional, but recommended)

1–2 teaspoons dried herbs, such as thyme and oregano (optional)

1 (1-pint) plastic container with small holes in the bottom (optional, for a firmer cheese)

1. Attach a kitchen thermometer to a large pot and pour in the milk. Heat over medium-high heat, stirring often to prevent scorching, until the milk reaches at least 185°F (85°C) but gets no hotter than 190°F (88°C). It should take 20 to 25 minutes to reach this temperature.

2. Slowly add the vinegar to the pot and then stir lightly in an up-anddown motion just to distribute the acid. Turn off the heat and let the pot sit undisturbed for about 20 minutes. The curds (the solid proteins that will become cheese) will separate from the whey (the cloudy liquid). 3. Line a fine-mesh sieve with cheesecloth and set over a bowl. Gently scoop the curds into the cloth-lined sieve. Let the whey drain into the bowl until the dripping stops. At this point, you will have cheese curds that are ready to eat as you would ricotta, but I recommend you flavor the cheese with the salt and herbs. Gently combine the curds with the salt and herbs in a medium bowl, then pour them back into the sieve and let them drain thoroughly again.

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Simple White Cheese (continued) 4. If you’d like a firmer cheese, you will need to press this cheese to extract more moisture. To do so, spoon the curds into the pint container with holes in the bottom, and place the container on top of a folded kitchen towel to catch any moisture that exudes. Press down on the curds to flatten them and smooth the top. Cover the surface of the cheese with plastic wrap and then place a ½-pound weight on top (jars of food, clean rocks, or

a canning jar full of water). Make sure the weight is evenly distributed or you’ll end up with lumpy cheese. Allow the cheese to press for about 3 hours. Release the cheese from the mold, drain the ­liquid, and the cheese is ready to slice and eat.

STORAGE

This is a fresh cheese. It will keep, wrapped in waxed paper in the refrigerator, for about 1 week.

Don’t Throw Away That Whey! Whey, a fantastic by-product of cheese making, has many great uses. Add it to juices, smoothies, soups, or marinades — anywhere you’d like a little tangy refreshment. Pets and farm animals love it. Use it as the boiling liquid for cooking pasta or as the soaking liquid for any kind of grain. Some people also like to use it as a pickling brine to make fermented vegetables. If you don’t like the flavor, it’s also a terrific hair rinse for shiny locks!

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CZECH PICKLED CHEESE MAKES

Both strong and mellow, and rich with sweet nuttiness from the onions,

1 quart

this cheese is like no other. I highly recommend using a Spanish smoked

TIME

paprika (pimentón de la Vera) if you can find it, but Hungarian sweet

2 weeks

paprika will also work. This is very easy to put together, and it will be

METHOD

cheese, you can use the same amount of mozzarella or another mild

Fat Curing (see page 27)

your appetizer or snack on crusty bread for weeks. If you don’t like strong cheese in place of the Camembert. Once the cheese is gone, the flavored oil is outstanding as a bread dip, drizzled over soup, or shaken into a vinaigrette. This cheese also plays well with beer.

1 small yellow onion



1 tablespoon neutral cooking oil (like olive, avocado, sunflower, or safflower oil)

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced



8 ounces Camembert or Brie cheese



2 teaspoons smoked paprika or Hungarian sweet paprika

10 juniper berries

2 dried bay leaves



1 tablespoon black peppercorns

About 7 fresh thyme sprigs 1–1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil

1. Slice the onion into long, superthin strips. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and salt and sauté the onion until it browns all

over, 4 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring often, until the onion and garlic are soft and fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Remove from the heat, pour the onion mixture into a small bowl, and let it cool. 2. Cut the cheese wheel with a sharp knife into eight wedges. Starting at the tip end of each piece of cheese, slice it horizontally, but don’t cut through the last bit of the cheese near the rind; you’re going to stuff the cheese in the middle like frosting between layers of cake. Lift the top layer of one wedge and use a spoon to sprinkle the paprika between the layers of cheese, then spoon in 2 to 3 teaspoons of the onions. Follow suit with the remaining pieces of cheese.

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Czech Pickled Cheese (continued) 3. Add the juniper berries, bay leaves, and peppercorns to a quart jar. Press the thyme sprigs flat against the side of the jar. Stack the stuffed cheese in the jar, pressing on it lightly for a tight pack. If there are any remaining onions, use them to cover the cheese. Pour the olive oil over the solids in the jar to cover them completely.

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4. Cover the jar tightly and refrigerate. For the flavors to be at their best, wait 2 weeks before eating.

STORAGE

Keep the lid on the jar and make sure all the solids in the jar are covered completely by the oil. Always keep this refrigerated. If the oil solidifies, let the jar come to room temperature before eating.

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PRESERVED HERBED FETA MAKES

Bring your inexpensive feta to this recipe, because curing it in a flavorful

1 pint

brine breathes new life into an inexpensive, simple cheese. The variations

TIME

2 days METHOD

Pickling (see page 9) VA R I AT IONS

on this are just about endless, so feel free to experiment. Nearly any combination of strong flavors (like garlic or chile pepper), fresh herbs, acid or citrus, and a decent extra-virgin olive oil is going to yield delicious results. Smear this cheese on crackers, bagels, or crusty bread, crumble it onto a salad or a soup, or stuff it into an omelet. Toss the cheese into pasta or melt it on grilled vegetables. Save the oil and use it for dipping bread or making salad dressings and marinades. If you like, you may use a firm goat

Replace the thyme, rosemary, garlic, and chile pepper with any of the following combinations:

cheese in place of the feta.



¼ teaspoon piment d’Espelette (French ground red chile pepper) or ground cayenne pepper

Lemon slices, red pepper flakes, and fresh oregano sprigs



7 fresh thyme stems



½ fresh rosemary sprig



8 ounces feta cheese, cut into 1-inch cubes

Fresh dill sprigs, black peppercorns, coriander seeds, and a pinch of ground turmeric



¼ cup red wine vinegar

Kalamata olives, orange slices, and cumin seeds Crushed garlic, anchovies, and fresh thyme stems





1 large garlic clove, lightly crushed

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1. Place the garlic and the piment d’Espelette in the bottom of a pint jar. Tuck in the thyme and rosemary against the sides of the jar.

in enough oil to cover the cheese completely. Swirl the jar gently to release any air bubbles and mix the flavors. 3. Cover the jar tightly and let sit in the refrigerator for at least 2 days before serving, swirling it once a day to distribute the flavors. The longer it sits, the more flavorful the cheese will become.

STORAGE

Ensure that the cheese is always completely covered in oil. The cheese will keep for at least 4 months and will improve with age.

2. Pack the cheese into the jar, but try not to crush the cubes. Pour the vinegar over the cheese, then pour

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YOGURT MAKES

Here, I’m stealing a trick from my pal Nicole Easterday of FARMcurious,

1 quart

an online DIY kitchen enthusiast supply store (and a good resource for yogurt starter, if you like). She is an avid yogurt maker of many years, but

TIME

Up to 14 hours

her whole yogurt-making approach changed when she received a tip from culinary scientist Harold McGee to hold the milk at temperature for 30 minutes before adding the starter. The result is a homemade yogurt that is properly thick and creamy, and much better than the lumpy stuff made by most home yogurt makers. You will need a candy or deep-frying thermometer for this recipe. I also highly recommend a quart canning jar as well as a canning rack, a silicone trivet, or a thick, folded kitchen towel beneath the jar to keep it from rattling against the bottom of the pot. Before you get started, you’ll also need to figure out how you’re going to keep your yogurt warm during incubation (see step 4). Once you get the hang of making yogurt, this is a kitchen magic trick you will return to again and again.

1 quart whole milk

Yogurt starter or ¼ cup plain yogurt with live active yogurt cultures Ice cubes or frozen cold packs Cooler, slow cooker, or heating pads, to keep yogurt warm

1. Pour the milk into a quart canning jar. Line the bottom of a Dutch oven with a canning rack, a silicone trivet, or a folded kitchen towel, and place the jar on top. Fill the pot with water around the jar as high as it can go, leaving room for the water to boil without spilling over into the milk. Clip on or place a kitchen thermometer inside the milk.

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2. Set the pot over high heat and warm the milk until it reaches 180°F (82°C). It usually takes about 30 minutes to come to this temperature, but it’s important to stir the milk frequently to maintain the heat evenly. When the milk reaches 180°F (82°C), adjust the heat as needed to keep the milk between 180°F and 185°F (82°C and 85°C) for 30 minutes. Stir often. 3. Turn off the heat and carefully remove the jar of heated milk from the pot. Place it in the center of a metal bowl and slowly pour cool tap water around the jar to cool it. Stir

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the milk frequently to help it cool. Add ice cubes or ice packs to help chill the water around the jar and keep stirring. Let the milk cool to 115°F (46°C). Once it has cooled, add the yogurt starter (following the package directions for use) or the yogurt to inoculate the milk.

Note: If you don’t have a canning jar or a rack or trivet to set the jar on, you can still make yogurt by pouring the milk directly into the pot. However, placing the milk in a jar on top of a rack in a pot of water prevents the milk from burning or boiling.

4. Screw the lid and band onto the jar and move it to a warm place where it can stay between 100°F and 115°F (38°C and 46°C) for 6 to 12 hours. Some people use coolers made warm by jars of warm water. Others use their slow cooker. I wrap my jar of yogurt in a heating pad set to medium and place it on top of a towel on the counter. Then I stuff another small towel on top and leave it overnight. Note that the yogurt will get tangier the longer it sits, so start tasting it after 6 hours and find the length of time you prefer. 5. The yogurt is now ready to eat, but most people prefer to chill it first. Your finished yogurt will be smooth, with a small amount of liquid whey floating on top; either drink it or simply stir it into the yogurt.

STORAGE

Covered and refrigerated, this yogurt will keep for at least 1 month.

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DRIED YOGURT BOMBS MAKES

Forget those yogurt-covered pretzels, t he sugar in which far outweighs

24 bombs

the good of the yogurt, and make some of these. These portable balls do take time, but they are so simple to make: drain the yogurt to extract as

TIME

About 1 day

much moisture as possible, roll the stiff yogurt into balls, and dry them.

METHOD

or baked goods, or grate them on top of desserts. A food dehydrator is

Drying (see page 22)

Eat them as they are, break the balls into pieces to mix into your cereal better than the oven for this recipe because the bombs dry best at a low temperature.

4 cups whole-milk Greek-style yogurt



¼ cup confectioners’ sugar (optional)

1. Line a fine-mesh sieve with a clean, thin cotton kitchen towel and place the sieve over a large bowl. Pour the yogurt into the lined sieve. The yogurt won’t start dripping right away. Let it sit for 12 hours to extract as much liquid whey as possible. At room temperature, the yogurt will take on more of a tangy taste; if this isn’t your preference, put it in the fridge. The yogurt will become very thick, about the consistency of cream cheese.

the yogurt into a ball. Roll the ball in the sugar, then place it on the fruit leather tray of a food dehydrator. Repeat with the remaining yogurt. 3. Dry the balls at 135°F (57°C) for 8 hours, or until they are quite firm. Turn the balls upside down and dry them for another 2 to 3 hours, until firm all over.

STORAGE

Store the yogurt balls in an airtight container inside your refrigerator’s vegetable drawer. They will keep for at least 2 months.

2. Place the confectioners’ sugar, if using, in a shallow bowl. With damp hands, roll 2 tablespoons of

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FROZEN WALNUT-YOGURT POPS MAKES

The flavor combination of creamy yogurt with bitter, earthy walnuts

Six 3-ounce pops

tempered by sweet honey is one of my favorites. Stirred together in a

TIME

bowl, these ingredients make a breakfast or dessert that is so much more

5½ hours

than the sum of its simple parts. These flavors are the inspiration for these

METHOD

that’s soft and creamy like ice cream.

Freezing (see page 26)

protein-filled frozen treats, which are delicious and sweet, with a texture



½ rounded cup walnuts



2 cups Greek-style yogurt



½ cup honey



3 tablespoons pure maple syrup



1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Ice-pop molds or 2-ounce paper cups Ice-pop sticks

1. Chop the nuts very finely (they should be about the size of grains of rice). Combine the chopped walnuts, yogurt, honey, maple syrup, and vanilla in a medium bowl. Carefully pour the mixture into six 2-ounce ice-pop molds (or paper cups lined with plastic wrap). Place an ice-pop stick in the center of each pop. Freeze for about 5 hours, or until solid.

2. To unmold the pops, roll each pop mold under hot running water for 30 to 45 seconds, then gently pull on the stick. If you pull too hard, you will pull the stick out! Or remove the paper cups and peel off the plastic wrap.

STORAGE

Stored in their molds in an airtight container, these pops will keep in the freezer for at least 6 months.

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BANANA-YOGURT “PAPPADAMS” MAKES

This is by no means a real Indian pappadam — that delicious crisp lentil

Two 13- by 18-inch fruit leather pieces

cracker that Indian-food fans know and love. I only call this a pappadam

TIME

yogurt, topped with dark chia seeds and shredded coconut. Note that

About 6 hours

you can use a food dehydrator for this recipe (dry for 3 to 4 hours), but

because it looks like it. It’s a thin, light-tan fruit leather of banana and

the oven seems to work best. Feel free to swap out the bananas for

METHOD

Drying (see page 22)

peaches, strawberries, blackberries, blueberries, applesauce, pear sauce, cranberry sauce, or fruit butter.

2 cups Greek-style yogurt



1 pound bananas (3 large or 4 small)



2 tablespoons honey



1 tablespoon bourbon



¼ teaspoon kosher salt



3 tablespoons chia seeds



¼ cup unsweetened shredded coconut

1. Combine the yogurt, bananas, honey, bourbon, and salt in a blender. (Tip: Put the yogurt in the blender first for easier blending.) Purée until completely smooth. 2. Preheat the oven to 170°F (75°C). 3. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Divide the yogurt purée between the lined baking sheets, spreading the mixture very thin (⅛ to ¼ inch thick) with an offset spatula or rubber spatula. The yogurt should cover nearly the entire sheet but be slightly thinner

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in the middle and a bit thicker on the edges. Evenly sprinkle the purée with the chia seeds and then the coconut. 4. Put the baking sheets in the oven and dry the pappadam for 4 to 5 hours, until it’s tacky and solidified all over. The fruit should be sticky but not wet throughout; the center is usually the last part to dry. Remove the pan from the oven and gently peel the fruit from the parchment paper, releasing it from the edges first, then the middle. Flip it over on the baking sheet, then return it to the oven for 30 minutes longer. Use a pizza cutter to cut it into pieces.

STORAGE

Keep the pieces wrapped in parchment paper to prevent them from sticking to one another, then store in a ziplock bag or airtight container in the refrigerator. The pappadams will keep for several months.

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8

BEANS & NUTS

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I

am the first to raise my fork for a solid cut of meat when I’m in the mood, but I also burn out on meat a lot and can crave beans, legumes, grains, and nuts with equal food lust. I am truly an omni-

vore. And I have no dilemma about it. People don’t tend to think that non-animal foods pack in the protein, but beans and nuts are powerful protein bombs in their own right. Black beans, chickpeas, and kidney beans all have as much protein as beef, and added fiber to boot. Pumpkin seeds are bursting with protein as well. You don’t have to be a raging hippie to snack on nuts from time to time. Even if you need meat to make a dish feel like a meal for you, you can still include some plant sources of protein along with the meat. These recipes keep meals lively, add some nice variety, save you some cash, and give you that sense of fullness you crave with just a nod toward environmental stewardship. In this chapter, I tried to challenge your ideas about nuts and beans by pickling them, preserving them in honey, canning them (or freezing them) to keep them within easy grasp, and generally making them delicious. Try these ideas to add flavor, texture, and longevity to some of the beans, nuts, and tofu you already love.

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TOFU JERKY MAKES

Chewy, flavorful, and portable, this seasoned tofu jerky is ready for

About 5 ounces

your backpack when you’re on the move. Honey, brown sugar, and apple cider vinegar give it a tangy sweetness; soy sauce, garlic, and white

TIME

3–5 hours

pepper give it some savory pep. The longer you dry the tofu, the chewier

METHOD

it either in the oven or in a food dehydrator.

it will be, so feel free to tweak the drying time to your liking. You can dry

Drying (see page 22)



1 (14-ounce) package extra-firm tofu



1 teaspoon brown sugar



½ teaspoon garlic powder



¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper



2 tablespoons honey



5 teaspoons soy sauce



1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar



¼ teaspoon toasted sesame oil

3. Combine the sugar, garlic powder, pepper, honey, soy sauce, vinegar, and sesame oil in a medium bowl. The glaze will be thick and syrupy.

1. Drain the tofu and gently squeeze it to release as much moisture as possible.

4. If you’re drying the tofu in the oven, preheat your oven to 200°F (90°C). Lay a piece of parchment paper or a silicone baking mat on a large baking sheet and lightly oil a wire cooling rack to fit on top. If you’re drying the tofu in a food dehydrator, set it to 160°F (70°C).

2. Slice the tofu very thinly (¼ inch thick). Lay the tofu slices flat and in a single layer on two clean kitchen towels. Lay another clean towel on top and gently press it all over to help the tofu drain. If you have time, allow the tofu to sit between

5. Lay the tofu in a single layer on the wire rack or dehydrator tray, with a bit of room between each piece. Use a pastry brush to brush a layer of the glaze on the top side of the tofu. Flip the tofu, then brush a layer of glaze on the second side.

Neutral cooking oil (like olive, avocado, sunflower, or safflower oil) to lightly oil the rack (for oven drying)

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the towels for 1 to 3 hours to help wick away more of its moisture. (If you don’t have time, it’s okay; it just means more drying time later.)

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6. Place the tofu in the oven or food dehydrator and dry for 1 hour. Brush on a second layer of the glaze on both sides. Dry for another 1½ hours. If the tofu is not stiff and firm, flip the tofu again and dry for 1 more hour. 7. Let the tofu cool before eating.

STORAGE

Keep the tofu in the fridge for best storage, where it will keep for at least 4 weeks. In the freezer, it will keep for several months. Always keep it wrapped tightly in an airtight container. For best results, fill an empty tea bag or a small piece of cheesecloth with raw rice, close it securely, and place inside the container to help absorb any residual moisture.

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PICKLED TOFU MAKES

Yes, pickled tofu. Though this isn’t suitable for canning, it’s easy to put

1 quart

together and keep stored in the refrigerator for anytime you need a quick mealtime boost. You’ll find that the vinegary and savory vegetables are as

TIME

At least 3 days

delicious as the tofu. Eat this cold as a side dish or as part of a salad, on top of hot rice, or as a complement to cooked meat.

METHOD

Pickling (see page 9)



¼ ounce dried cremini mushrooms 1 small to medium carrot ½ medium white onion



1 (14-ounce) package extra-firm tofu



3 tablespoons peanut oil or any oil with a high smoking point



½ teaspoon kosher salt



2 small fresh tarragon sprigs



1 dried bay leaf



1 garlic clove, minced



2 tablespoons sugar



¾ cup distilled white vinegar



3 tablespoons tamari

1. Soak the mushrooms in 1 cup of warm tap water while you prepare the rest of the ingredients. Peel and trim the carrot and slice it into ½-inch-thick coins. Peel the onion and slice it into ½-inch-thick strips. 2. Drain the tofu and squeeze it gently to rid it of as much liquid as possible. Cut the tofu into bite-size pieces and blot them dry between two clean kitchen towels.

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3. Heat the oil in a wok or large skillet over medium-high heat for about 1 minute. Add the tofu and sprinkle it with the salt. Stir it often and cook until the tofu is golden brown all over, about 10 minutes. Set the tofu aside. 4. Now make the brine: Place the mushrooms and their soaking liquid (minus any dirt or sediment that may have fallen to the bottom) in a medium saucepan over high heat. Add the tarragon, bay leaf, garlic, sugar, vinegar, and tamari to the saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil, then add the carrot and onion and boil for 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat. 5. Add all the solids from the brine to a quart canning jar. Pack in the tofu on top. Pour all the liquid on top of the tofu and the vegetables to cover them completely. Cover the jar with the lid and let the jar cool to room temperature.

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6. Let this sit for at least 3 days in the refrigerator before serving to give the tofu time to absorb the flavors.

STORAGE

Covered and refrigerated with all ingredients below the brine line, this will keep for at least 2 months.

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SAKE-BRINED TOFU MAKES

Store-bought tofu can be preserved for a year if pickled in life-

14 ounces

lengthening Japanese rice wine. If left to float in water, tofu will eventually get slimy and decompose. But in a pool of preserving wine

TIME

At least 5 days

and a little salt, the tofu takes on a drunken flavor that adds a nice bite to

METHOD

drain it, pat it completely dry, and then fry it in plenty of hot oil until the

Pickling (see page 9)

its normally mild taste and texture. My favorite way to eat this tofu is to outside is crisp and the inside is creamy with the flavor of sake.

1 (14-ounce) package firm tofu



1 cup sake, plus more as needed



½ teaspoon kosher salt

1. Remove the tofu from its package, drain it, and gently press out as much moisture as you can. Tightly wrap the tofu in two clean kitchen towels and place a heavy cutting board on top to press, but not crush, the tofu. Let it sit for at least 3 hours to gently release as much moisture as possible.

3. Refrigerate the tofu for at least 5 days before using to let it soak up some of the sake flavor.

STORAGE

Kept covered and refrigerated with the tofu fully submerged in the sake, the tofu will keep for at least 1 year.

2. Cut the tofu into 1-inch cubes and transfer to a glass container large enough to hold the tofu (you can use a plastic container, but it will retain the odor of the sake). Pour the sake into a small bowl and stir in the salt. Pour the sake over the tofu to cover it completely by at least ½ inch, adding more sake if needed. Cover the container tightly and move it to the refrigerator.

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CANNED BEANS MAKES

I know you think we are entering the culinary loony bin here, b  ecause

About 9 pints

store-bought canned beans are plentiful and cheap, right? But if you’ve

TIME

never had the pleasure of homemade canned beans, they are a world

1 day

apart from the grocery-store variety — it’s like the difference between a

METHOD

aren’t slimy like store-bought, and you can use as much salt (or as little —

Pressure Canning (see page 14)

canned ham and the pork you’ve cured yourself. Home-canned beans even none) as you like. To really make stocking your pantry with your own beans worth it, don’t buy the cheap dried beans. Buy better dried beans from the farmers’ market or, if necessary, mail-order them from Rancho Gordo — they will be the best beans you’ve ever tasted. Can as many jars as you can comfortably fit into your canner to maximize your efforts. 3½ pounds good-quality dried beans, such as garbanzo, pinto, kidney, red, black, cannellini, or black-eyed peas

1 large yellow onion, peeled, whole, with the root end removed



2 large dried bay leaves



2 tablespoons plus 1½ teaspoons kosher salt (optional, but recommended)

1. Place the beans in a large pot and cover with water. Mix them around with your hand to rinse. Discard any bits of debris that float to the surface and pick out any stones.

2. Drain the beans, return them to the pot, and cover with clean tap water by at least 3 inches. Let the beans soak for at least 12 hours. 3. Clean nine pint canning jars and check for nicks and dents. 4. Drain the beans again, cover with clean water by 2 inches, and add the onion, bay leaves, and 1 tablespoon of the salt to the pot. Cover and bring the beans to a boil over high heat. Once boiling, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes. Remove and discard the onion and bay leaves.

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Canned Beans (continued) 5. Distribute the beans among nine pint jars, but don’t pack them more than two-thirds full. Add ½ teaspoon of salt to each jar. Top off the jars with the cooking liquid (and more water, if you run out of cooking liquid), leaving 1 inch of headspace. Wipe the rims clean and add the lids. Screw on the bands tightly, but not supertight. 6. Set the jars in the canner. Be sure to check your canner’s water level — there should be 3 inches of water. Then turn the heat to high and, once steam has started to stream out, vent your pressure canner for 10 full minutes (or follow the manufacturer’s instructions). 7. For pint jars in a dial-gauge pressure canner, process for 1 hour 15 minutes at 11 pounds of pressure. Add more pressure as necessary for your elevation; see page 16 for details.

168 

For pint jars in a weighted-­ gauge canner, process for 1 hour 15 minutes at 10 pounds of pressure. Add more pressure as necessary for your elevation; see page 16 for details. 8. Follow the instructions for cooling the jars on page 16.

STORAGE

All jars that have safely sealed should be wiped down, labeled, and then stored on the shelf for up to 1 year. Any jars that have not sealed properly should be refrigerated and used within 1 week. Note: I like canning beans in pint jars, but if you’re canning in quart jars, start with 5 pounds of beans, use 1 teaspoon of salt per jar, and process for 1½ hours at 11 pounds of pressure in a dialgauge canner, or 10 pounds of pressure in a weighted-gauge canner (adjusting for altitude as directed).

Beans & Nuts

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PICKLED GARBANZO BEANS MAKES

Garbanzo beans, chickpeas, ceci beans:these are all the same delicious

1 quart

bean. You may know them best as the star of hummus or falafel, and

TIME

About 5 days

some of those flavors — garlic, cumin, and lemon among them — pop up in this pickle. Eat these as a side dish with grilled or fatty meat, or sprinkle them on top of salads, deviled eggs, hummus, or gazpacho.

METHODS

Pickling (see page 9); Hot-Water-Bath Canning (see page 12)

1½ cups dried garbanzo beans (10 ounces)

2 garlic cloves, crushed



2 (2-inch) pieces lemon zest (removed with a vegetable peeler)



2 tablespoons sugar



1 tablespoon cumin seeds



1 tablespoon kosher salt



½ teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 cup water ¾ cup apple cider vinegar

1. Soak the beans for 12 hours in a Dutch oven with enough water to cover them by at least 2 inches. Drain and rinse the beans of their soaking liquid. You should have about 3¾ cups soaked beans. 2. Return the beans to the Dutch oven and cover with fresh water by 2 inches. Bring the beans to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer continuously just until the beans are cooked through but still firm, 30 to 60 minutes.

3. Drain the beans and rinse them again, then return them to the pot. Add the garlic, lemon zest, sugar, cumin seeds, salt, pepper flakes, water, and vinegar and place over high heat. Stir to combine, and then heat just until the brine boils. Remove the pot from the heat. 4. Ladle the beans and all of the solid spices into a quart canning jar, then pour the brine over the top to cover the beans completely. Cover and let the beans cool completely, then refrigerate. Let the beans absorb the brine for at least 4 days.

STORAGE

Kept covered and submerged in the brine in the refrigerator, these pickled beans will keep for at least 3 months. If canning, process for 15 minutes. The beans will keep on the shelf for up to 1 year. Note that the acid in the vinegar can toughen the beans over time.

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170 

Beans & Nuts

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PROTEIN-PUNCHED THREE-BEAN SALAD MAKES

Why do they call this a salad? Because that’s what your great-

About 2 quarts

grandmother called it as she placed it alongside the savory Jell-O mold

TIME

and the “meatloaf surprise.” But make no mistake — this “salad” is really

At least 2 hours

a pickle. It’s traditionally made from green beans, yellow wax beans, and

METHODS

vegetables for protein-packed edamame. Yellow wax beans will make for

Pickling (see page 9); Hot-Water-Bath Canning (see page 12)

red kidney beans or garbanzos, but here I’m swapping out some of the a prettier color pop, but if you can’t find them, green beans will certainly suffice.

2 cups canned or cooked red kidney beans (see step 1)



1 teaspoon plus 1 tablespoon kosher salt



8 ounces yellow wax beans or green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces



2 cups frozen edamame



2 cups water

1½ cups distilled white vinegar

¾ cup sugar



½ medium red onion, chopped into bean-size pieces (about 1 cup)

2–3 celery stalks, chopped into beansize pieces (about ¾ cup)

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1. Prepare the kidney beans: If you’re using canned beans, rinse the beans and drain them well. If you’re starting with dried beans, soak 1 cup (or more) of dried beans in water to cover overnight. Drain the beans and rinse them well. Add the soaked beans and enough fresh water to cover them by 2 inches to a medium saucepan. Bring the beans to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer the beans just until cooked through, 45 to 75 minutes. Measure out 2 cups of beans for the recipe and save any remaining beans for another use. 2. Add 8 cups of water and 1 teaspoon of the salt to a medium Dutch oven over high heat. Bring the water to a boil, then add the wax beans. Blanch the beans for Recipe continues on next page

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Protein-Punched Three-Bean Salad (continued) 2 minutes. Remove them with a slotted spoon and run them under cold water to stop the cooking. Drain the beans well. Keep the water boiling. 3. Add the edamame to the boiling water and cook just until they’re thawed, 30 to 45 seconds. Drain the edamame, run under cold water to stop the cooking, and then drain them well. 4. Return the empty pot to the stove and make the brine: Add the 2 cups water plus the vinegar, sugar, and remaining 1 tablespoon salt to the pot over high heat. Stir to dissolve the sugar and salt and bring the brine to a boil. Remove from the heat.

172 

5. Combine the kidney beans, wax beans, edamame, red onion, and celery in a large bowl and mix well. Pack the vegetables tightly into a 2-quart canning jar. Cover with the brine completely, leaving room for the olive oil. Add the olive oil to cover the top. 6. This salad is best if allowed to sit for at least 1 hour before being eaten, but it gets even better after a couple of days in the fridge.

STORAGE

Kept refrigerated and completely submerged in the brine, this pickle will keep for at least 6 months. If canning, process for 15 minutes. It will keep on the shelf for up to 1 year.

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EDAMAME PESTO MAKES

At 17 grams of protein per cup, edamame ( fresh young soybeans, often

3 cups

found frozen) are a protein powerhouse. They are sweet and creamy and

TIME

easy to work with. Best preserved by freezing, this spread is a delicious

20 minutes

way to up the protein ante with the power of walnuts, aged cheese, garlic,

METHOD

no sin that a sprig of green garnish can’t fix.

Freezing (see page 26)

and lemon. The pale color isn’t going to win any beauty contests, but it’s



⅔ cup walnuts



1 garlic clove, peeled



4 ounces Parmesan or romano cheese

2½ cups frozen shelled edamame, thawed

3 tablespoons lemon juice (from 1 juicy lemon)



2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more as needed



¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Toast the nuts in a medium skillet over medium-high heat until fragrant and light brown, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat immediately and transfer the nuts to a plate to let them cool. 2. Place the garlic in the bowl of a food processor and process until it is minced enough to stop moving in the blades. 3. Chop the cheese into large chunks and add it to the food processor. Once the nuts have cooled

slightly, add them to the processor bowl as well. Process the nuts and cheese until they’re grainy but not completely smooth. 4. Add the edamame, lemon juice, and salt to the nut and cheese mixture and process. With the machine running, stream in the olive oil and process until smooth. 5. Taste the pesto and season with salt and pepper as desired.

STORAGE

Portion the pesto into 1-cup containers with tight-fitting lids, leaving 1 inch of headspace. Freeze for up to 6 months. Note: This pesto is the right consistency for spreading on crusty bread. To thin it into a pasta sauce, add ¼ to ½ cup of the pasta cooking water to 1½ cups pesto. Toss with 1 pound of cooked pasta, then finish the dish with chopped fresh herbs, such as basil or parsley.

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BLACK BEAN AND CORN RELISH MAKES

Black beans add protein to the sweet corn,caramelized red pepper,

2½ pints

and onion in this relish with absolutely delicious results. I know that sometimes starting with canned beans is the only option, but the texture

TIME

1 hour to 1 day

of freshly cooked beans will reward you handsomely. The whole shebang

METHODS

for the brine to get cloudy as the corn releases its starch.

Pickling (see page 9); Hot-Water-Bath Canning (see page 12)

is as friendly atop a hot dog as it is on a tortilla chip. Note that it’s natural

1¾ cups canned or cooked black beans (see step 1) 1¾ cups frozen corn, thawed

2 tablespoons vegetable oil



2 cups chopped red onion (1 large onion)

1⅓ cups chopped red bell pepper (1 large pepper)

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1⅔ cups apple cider vinegar

¼ cup sugar



1 tablespoon prepared mustard



1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano

1. Prepare the black beans: If you’re using canned beans, rinse the beans and drain them well. If you’re starting with dried beans, soak 1 cup (or more) of dried beans overnight in enough water to cover them. Drain the beans and rinse them well. Transfer the soaked beans to a medium saucepan and add enough fresh water to cover them by 2 inches. Bring the beans to a boil over high heat, then reduce

174 

the heat to low and simmer just until the beans are tender to the bite, 45 to 75 minutes. Measure out 1¾ cups of beans for the recipe and save any remaining beans for another use. 2. Combine the beans and the corn in a large bowl. 3. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, and salt and sauté, stirring often, until the vegetables soften and taste sweet, 8 to 12 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat and add the vegetables to the bowl with the beans and corn. Stir to combine, then pack the vegetables tightly into three pint canning jars. 4. Now make the brine: Combine the vinegar, sugar, mustard, and oregano in a small saucepan. Bring it to a boil over high heat and stir just until the sugar dissolves. Turn off the heat, then pour the hot brine over the vegetables.

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5. This relish is ready to eat immediately, but it’s much better if you let it sit and marinate for at least a few hours.

STORAGE

Kept refrigerated, with all of the vegetables submerged beneath the brine, this will keep for at least 6 months. If canning, process for 15 minutes. It will keep on the shelf for up to 1 year.

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HONEY-PRESERVED PISTACHIOS MAKES

All nuts have protein, but pistachios have a ton of it:25 grams per cup

About 1 pint

(walnuts are also delicious in this recipe, but they have about half the protein). A few minutes of effort will yield a delicious and versatile sweet

TIME

20 minutes

condiment that can easily swing savory. Eat these with cheese, stuff the mixture into pitted dates, spoon it on top of ice cream, swirl it into yogurt, or dollop it on top of toast, muffins, or pancakes. Not only is this great to have in your fridge, but it makes a great quick gift for someone else’s fridge, too.

1 cup roasted, salted pistachios, shelled



¾ cup light-colored honey



¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil



1 rounded teaspoon finely minced lemon zest

1½ teaspoons finely minced fresh ginger

1 teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat a medium skillet over medium-high heat for 1 minute. Toast the pistachios in the pan, stirring or shaking often, until they’re lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. This will perk up their flavor. Remove the nuts from the pan and let them cool. If you’re using very fresh roasted nuts that already have great flavor, feel free to skip this step.

176 

2. Heat the honey in the microwave for 10 to 20 seconds to help it pour and mix more easily. If you don’t have a microwave, warm the honey jar in a pan of hot tap water for 30 to 45 seconds, until it’s able to pour easily. 3. Combine the honey, olive oil, lemon zest, ginger, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl with a bowl scraper to blend in every sweet and flavorful drop of the honey. 4. Once the nuts have cooled, add them to the honey mixture and stir to coat them completely. 5. Pour the mixture into a pint canning jar, cover, and refrigerate.

STORAGE

Stored covered in the refrigerator, these nuts will keep for at least 6 months.

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Beans & Nuts  

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THANKS My cup runneth over with gratitude for all those who worked so hard behind the scenes to make this book happen. The first tip of the hat goes to Danielle Svetcov, my agent, who not only represents me but also is, in equal parts, an effective whip maven and psychotherapist. Of course I also thank Sarah Guare and Carleen Madigan, my editors; Valerie Cimino, my copy editor; Nancy Ringer and Hannah Fries, my proofreaders; Aubrie Pick, my photographer; Lillian Kang, my food stylist; and the Storey team for t­ aking a chance on me. Thanks for very specific recipe inspiration goes to Nicole Easterday of FARMcurious and to the amazing chef Elizabeth Binder, one of the most knowledgeable chefs of South African cooking in the United States. And my beloved Gregory and Nerea win extra points for trying to teach me Basque cooking technique via WhatsApp! I had an army of recipe testers who came to my aid from just a simple Facebook post, and I am praying that I’m not leaving anyone out: Sora Bai, Lena Brooke, Roger C. Adams, Nisreen Witt, Sheila Nickadopolis, M. Quinn Sweeney, Dana Velden, Lisa Rogovin, Kelly Forde, Sam Tackeff, Arturo Najera, Joshua Clever, Christina Topham, Doug Fuller, Kendra Smith, John Lee, Alix Wall, and Eileen O’Neil. My apologies that I could not incorporate everyone who responded, but please know that I am touched by the generosity of your time and your insight. Of course, and as always, I beg the forgiveness of my loving family, Matthew, Emmett, and Desmond, for all of those weird dinners (seven kinds of pickles again tonight, guys!). All. The. Time. Maybe one day we won’t have 11 kinds of jerky, 4 different confits, and 3 quarts of pickled fish hogging all the refrigerator shelf space. The three of you are my most treasured recipe testers. Even when you hate everything. I love my mommy, Arlene Solomon, for teaching me always that cooking is fun and that food is love. Cooking for her now is one of my great adult pleasures. Ginger and Snickers, my beloved hounds: as always, everything that falls on the floor is all yours.

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SOURCES AND RESOURCES WEBSITES

Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program, a great resource for

learning sustainable choices at the seafood counter, and for learning what to buy

The Bean Institute, who provided nutrition information and cooking information and more general info about beans than I ever realized I needed to know www.beaninstitute.com

www.seafoodwatch.org

The Sausage Maker, great retailers

of smoking equipment, sausage stuffing equipment, and many other things that will get you addicted to preserving meat

www.sausagemaker.com

A-MAZE-N Products, makers of cold smoking devices who are extremely nice and entirely patient and provide excellent customer service www.amazenproducts.com

National Center for Home Food Preservation, know-it-alls about

modern food preservation safety techniques in the US funded by the Cooperative State Research, Education and Extension Service and the United States Department of Agriculture http://nchfp.uga.edu

University of Minnesota Extension Food Safety Program, another great

resource for the nitty-gritty on modern canning practices, etc.

https://www.extension.umn.edu/food

University of California Cooperative Extension Master Food Preserver Program, particularly Kathi Baxter,

/food-safety/

who kindly and patiently answered all of my questions on food preservation safety

The United States Department of Agriculture and National Institute of Food and Agriculture Complete Guide to Home Canning

http://ucfoodsafety.ucdavis.edu/Master

http://nchfp.uga.edu/publications

_Food_Preserver_Program/

/publications_usda.html

High Plains Bison Company, who kindly provided me with many pounds of delicious bison meat used in the development of these recipes

USDA SuperTracker Food-aPedia, a thorough website with a

www.highplainsbison.com

tremendous amount of nutrition information https://www.supertracker.usda.gov /foodapedia.aspx

 

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ChooseMyPlate, a guide to con-

sumer dietary information

https://www.choosemyplate.gov /protein-foods

Karen Solomon (that’s me!), for

r­ ecipes, food preservation questions, and more

www.ksolomon.com

University of Alaska Fairbanks Cooperative Extension Service,

for great information on fish preservation

https://www.uaf.edu/ces/

Rancho Gordo, just for being one of the nation’s finest growers and purveyors of top-quality heirloom varieties of dried beans

BOOKS

Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing, by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn Jerky Everything: Foolproof and Flavorful Recipes for Beef, Pork, Poultry, Game, Fish, Fruit, and Even Vegetables, by Pamela Braun Mrs. Wheelbarrow’s Practical Pantry: Recipes and Techniques for YearRound Preserving, by Cathy Barrow

www.ranchogordo.com

FARMcurious, in Oakland, CA, for the great tip on yogurt making and for being a tremendous resource for DIY kitchen enthusiast supplies and yogurt starter www.farmcurious.com

Farm Fresh Duck, the best nationally available resource for duck fat, duck meat, and all manner of treats for those who like to eat duck www.farmfreshduck.com

180 

Sources and Resources

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METRIC CONVERSION CHARTS Unless you have finely calibrated measuring equipment, conversions between US and metric measurements will be somewhat inexact. It’s important to convert the measurements for all of the ingredients in a ­recipe to maintain the same proportions as the original.

WEIGHT

VOLUME

To convert

to

multiply

To convert

to

multiply

ounces

grams

ounces by 28.35

teaspoons

milliliters

teaspoons by 4.93

pounds

grams

pounds by 453.5

tablespoons

milliliters

tablespoons by 14.79

pounds

kilograms

pounds by 0.45

cups

milliliters

cups by 236.59

cups

liters

cups by 0.24

TEMPERATURE

pints

milliliters

pints by 473.18

To convert

to

pints

liters

pints by 0.473

Fahrenheit

Celsius

quarts

milliliters

quarts by 946.36

quarts

liters

quarts by 0.946

gallons

liters

gallons by 3.785

subtract 32 from Fahrenheit temperature, multiply by 5, then divide by 9

 

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INDEX Page numbers in italic indicate photos; page numbers in bold indicate charts.

A

air drying, 52, 91 Anchovies or Sardines, Cured, 3, 136, 137 apple cider vinegar, 9 Beet Pickled Eggs, 146 Black Bean and Corn Relish, 174–75, 175 Curry Pickled Eggs, 144–45, 145 New Orleans-Style Pickle Meat, 84 Pickled Shrimp, 134–35, 135 Simple White Cheese, 147–48 apples Baked Chopped Herring, 132–33 Duck Confit, Endive, and Apple Salad, 98, 99

B

Bacalao (Salted and Dried Cod), 115 Bacalao, Tomato, and Olive Stew, 116, 117 bacon Bacon, Roasted Tomato, and Onion Spread, 70, 71–72 Bacon Extraordinaire, 68–69, 69 Baked Chopped Herring, 132–33 Bak Kwa (Chinese-Style Dried Pork), 87–88, 89 bananas

Banana-Yogurt “Pappadams,” 158, 159 beans, 5, 161. See also tofu Black Bean and Corn Relish, 174–75, 175 Boston Baked Beans, 75–76 Canned Beans, 167–68 canning and, 12, 14 Edamame Pesto, 173 Pickled Garbanzo Beans, 169 Protein-Punched Three-Bean Salad, 170, 171–72 protein quantity and, 5 Red Beans and Rice with Pickle Meat, 85–86 beef Basic Beef Jerky, 36–37, 41 Biltong (South African Dried Meat), 51–53 Corned Beef, 57–58, 59 Miso-Yogurt Beef Jerky, 42–43 Pastrami, 60, 61 Sour Orange Beef Jerky, 38–39 Beet Pickled Eggs, 138, 146 Big Game Jerky, 44–45 Biltong (South African Dried Meat), 40, 51–53 Black Bean and Corn Relish, 174– 75, 175 Boston Baked Beans, 74, 75–76 brine, 9. See also pickling brine curing, 20–21

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equipment for, 21 step-by-step, 21, 21 brined foods Sake-Brined Tofu, 166 Salt-Brined Eggs, 142 buffalo Big Game Jerky, 44–45, 46

C

cabbage Corned Beef, 57–58, 59 canned foods Canned Beans, 167–68 Canned Salmon, 118–19 Canned Tuna, 124–25 canning, hot-water-bath equipment for, 12, 12 step-by-step, 12–13 canning, pressure equipment for, 14, 15 step-by-step, 14–16 carrots Boston Baked Beans, 75–76 Chicken Stock, 94–95, 95 Corned Beef, 57–58, 59 Pickled Tofu, 164–65, 165 celery Baked Chopped Herring, 132–33 Boston Baked Beans, 75–76 Chicken Stock, 94–95, 95 Pickled Shrimp, 134–35 Protein-Punched Three-Bean Salad, 171–72 Red Beans and Rice with Pickle Meat, 85–86 cheese Czech Pickled Cheese, 149–150, 151 Edamame Pesto, 173

Preserved Herbed Feta, 152, 153 protein quantity and, 5 White Cheese, Simple, 147–48 chia seeds Banana-Yogurt “Pappadams,” 158, 159 Meat Energy Bars, 46, 47–48 Chicken Stock, 94–95, 95 citrus fruit. See also lemon juice/ lemon zest; orange juice/ orange zest zesting, 102 coconut, unsweetened shredded Banana-Yogurt “Pappadams,” 158, 159 cod Bacalao (Salted and Dried Cod), 115 Bacalao, Tomato, and Olive Stew, 116, 117 Cold-Cured Gravlax, 110–11, 111 cold smoking, 32–33, 33 confit Duck Confit, 96–97 Duck Confit, Endive, and Apple Salad, 98, 99 Pork Belly Confit, 80–81 Coppiette (Roman-Style Dried Pork), 41, 90–91 Corned Beef, 57–58, 59 Corn Relish, Black Bean and, 174–75, 175 cranberries Native American Dried Fruit and Meat (Pemmican), 49–50 Creamed Herring, 131 Croquettes, Salmon, 120, 121 cured foods Anchovies or Sardines, Cured, 136, 137

Index 

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cured foods, continued Gravlax, Cold-Cured, 110–11, 111 curing brine, 20–21, 21 dry, 17–19, 19 fat, 27–28, 28 Curry Pickled Eggs, 144, 145 Czech Pickled Cheese, 149–150, 151 Czech Pickled Hot Dogs, 66, 67

D

dairy products. See also cheese; sour cream; yogurt whey, 148 dates Meat Energy Bars, 46, 47–48 dehydrator, food. See drying dips and spreads Bacon, Roasted Tomato, and Onion Spread, 71–72 Dried Yogurt Bombs, 156 dry curing, 17–19, 19 equipment for, 19 step-by-step, 19, 19 drying, 22–25 air drying, 52, 91 equipment for, 22 food dehydrator, step-by-step, 24, 25 oven, step-by-step, 23–24 preparation of food for, 22–23 duck Duck Breast Prosciutto, 100, 101–2 Duck Confit, 96–97 Duck Confit, Endive, and Apple Salad, 98, 99

184 

E

edamame, 5, 5 Edamame Pesto, 173 Protein-Punched Three-Bean Salad, 170, 171–72 eggs, 139 Baked Chopped Herring, 132–33 Beet Pickled Eggs, 138, 146 Curry Pickled Eggs, 144, 145 Egg Yolks, Preserved, 140–41 Salmon Croquettes, 120, 121 Salt-Brined Eggs, 142 Slightly Smoky Soy Sauce Eggs, 143 elk Big Game Jerky, 44–45, 46 endive Duck Confit, Endive, and Apple Salad, 98, 99

F

fat curing, 27–28 equipment for, 28, 28 step-by-step, 28, 28 fermentation, 11 fish, 107, 129. See also specific type canning and, 14 filleting, step-by-step, 108–9, 109 Hot Smoked Fish, 112, 113 Killer Smoked Fish Salad, 114 protein quantity and, 3 food safety canning and, 13, 16 cold smoking and, 32 drying and, 22, 24, 52, 53, 91 microbes and, 17, 20, 27 temperature, internal, 13, 16, 24, 35, 52, 63, 91 freezing, 26, 26

Index

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drying meat and, 23, 23 food safety and, 7 Frozen Walnut-Yogurt Pops, 157 fruit. See also specific type citrus, zesting, 102 Meat Energy Bars, 46, 47–48 Native American Dried Fruit and Meat (Pemmican), 49–50

G

game, wild Big Game Jerky, 44–45, 46 food safety and, 7 ginger, fresh Curry Pickled Eggs, 144–45, 145 Honey-Preserved Pistachios, 176, 177 Miso-Yogurt Beef Jerky, 42–43 Pork Belly Confit, 80–81 Rousong (Pork Floss), 82–83, 83 Salmon Jerky, 122–23, 123 Gravlax, Cold-Cured, 110–11, 111

H

Ham, 64–65 herring Baked Chopped Herring, 132–33 Creamed Herring, 131 Pickled Herring, 130 honey Banana-Yogurt “Pappadams,” 158, 159 Frozen Walnut-Yogurt Pops, 157 Honey-Preserved Pistachios, 176, 177 Meat Energy Bars, 46, 47–48 Tofu Jerky, 162–63 Hot Dogs, Czech Pickled, 66, 67

Hot-Smoked Fish, 112, 113 hot smoking, 29–31, 30 equipment for, 29 step-by-step, 29–31

I

InstaCure #1, 17, 19, 20, 21, 32 Bacon Extraordinaire, 68–69, 69 Corned Beef, 57–58, 59 InstaCure #2, 17, 19

J

jerky, 24, 24 Basic Beef Jerky, 36–37, 41 Big Game Jerky, 44–45, 46 Meat Energy Bars, 46, 47–48 Miso-Yogurt Beef Jerky, 42–43 Pemmican (Native American Dried Fruit and Meat), 49–50 Salmon Jerky, 40, 122–23, 123 Sour Orange Beef Jerky, 38–39 Thanksgiving Turkey Jerky, 104–105 Tofu Jerky, 162–63

K

Khlea (Moroccan Preserved Lamb), 54, 55–56 Killer Smoked Fish Salad, 114

L

lamb Khlea (Moroccan Preserved Lamb), 54, 55–56 legumes. See beans; tofu

Index 

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lemon juice/lemon zest Honey-Preserved Pistachios, 176, 177 Pickled Garbanzo Beans, 169 Pickled Shrimp, 134–35, 135 Salmon Jerky, 122–23, 123 Simple White Cheese, 147–48 Sour Orange Beef Jerky, 38–39

M

mango, dried Meat Energy Bars, 46, 47–48 maple syrup Frozen Walnut-Yogurt Pops, 157 Salmon Jerky, 122–23, 123 meat, 35. See also jerky; specific type Biltong (South African Dried Meat), 40, 51–53 food safety and, 7, 35 Meat Energy Bars, 47–48 Pemmican (Native American Dried Fruit and Meat), 49–50 milk Simple White Cheese, 147–48 Yogurt, 154–55, 155 Miso-Yogurt Beef Jerky, 42–43 molasses Bacon Extraordinaire, 68–69, 69 Big Game Jerky, 44–45 Boston Baked Beans, 75–76 Moroccan Preserved Lamb (Khlea), 54, 55–56

N

New Orleans-Style Pickle Meat, 84 nuts, 161 Edamame Pesto, 173 Frozen Walnut-Yogurt Pops, 157

186 

Honey-Preserved Pistachios, 176, 177 protein quantity and, 5

O

olives Bacalao, Tomato, and Olive Stew, 116, 117 onions, 10, 10 Bacon, Roasted Tomato, and Onion Spread, 70, 71–72 Czech Pickled Cheese, 149–150, 151 Czech Pickled Hot Dogs, 66, 67 New Orleans-Style Pickle Meat, 84 Sour Orange Beef Jerky, 38–39 orange juice/orange zest Ham, 64–65 Sour Orange Beef Jerky, 38–39

P

Pastrami, 60, 61 Pemmican (Native American Dried Fruit and Meat), 49–50 peppers, bell Black Bean and Corn Relish, 174–75, 175 Red Beans and Rice with Pickle Meat, 85–86 Pesto, Edamame, 173 pickled foods Pickled Cheese, Czech, 149–150, 151 Pickled Eggs, Beet, 146 Pickled Garbanzo Beans, 169 Pickled Herring, 130 Pickled Hot Dogs, Czech, 66, 67

Index

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Pickled Shrimp, 134–35, 135 Pickled Tofu, 164–65, 165 Pickle Meat, New Orleans-Style, 84 Pickle Meat, Red Beans and Rice with, 85–86 pickling, 9–10 fermentation and, 11 step-by-step, 10 pig skin Pork Rinds, 77–78, 79 plasmolysis, 9 pork, 63 Bak Kwa (Chinese-Style Dried Pork), 87–88, 89 Boston Baked Beans, 75–76 Coppiette (Roman-Style Dried Pork), 41, 90–91 food safety and, 63 Ham, 64–65 Hot Dogs, Czech Pickled, 66, 67 New Orleans-Style Pickle Meat, 84 Pork Rinds, 77–78, 79 Red Beans and Rice with Pickle Meat, 85–86 Rousong (Pork Floss), 82–83, 83 pork belly. See also bacon Pork Belly Confit, 80–81 Salt Pork, 73, 74 potatoes Corned Beef, 57–58, 59 poultry, 93. See also specific type protein quantity and, 3 Preserved Egg Yolks, 140–41 Preserved Herbed Feta, 152, 153 protein, 2–5 in dairy products, 5 in fish, 3 in legumes, 5

in meat, 3 in poultry, 3 Protein-Punched Three-Bean Salad, 170, 171–72 USDA recommendations, 2 pumpkin seeds, 5, 161 Meat Energy Bars, 46, 47–48

R

Red Beans and Rice with Pickle Meat, 85–86 red wine vinegar, 9 Biltong (South African Dried Meat), 40, 51–53 Preserved Herbed Feta, 152, 153 Relish, Black Bean and Corn, 174–75, 175 rice Red Beans and Rice with Pickle Meat, 85–86 Rousong (Pork Floss), 82–83, 83

S

safety. See food safety Sake-Brined Tofu, 166 salad Duck Confit, Endive, and Apple Salad, 98, 99 Killer Smoked Fish Salad, 114 Protein-Punched Three-Bean Salad, 5, 170, 171–72 salmon Canned Salmon, 118–19 Cold-Cured Gravlax, 110–11, 111 Salmon Croquettes, 120, 121 Salmon Jerky, 40, 122–23, 123 salt, pink, 17–18, 19. See also InstaCure #1

Index 

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Salt-Brined Eggs, 142 Salt Pork, 73 Sardines or Anchovies, Cured, 136, 137 seeds. See also chia seeds; pumpkin seeds protein quantity and, 5, 161 Shrimp, Pickled, 134–35, 135 Simple White Cheese, 147–48 Slightly Smoky Soy Sauce Eggs, 143 smoked foods Hot-Smoked Fish, 112, 113 Killer Smoked Fish Salad, 114 Slightly Smoky Soy Sauce Eggs, 143 Smoked Turkey Leg, 103 smoking, types of cold, 32–33, 33 fake, 31 hot, 29–31, 30 sodium nitrate, 17, 19 sodium nitrite, 17, 19, 21. See also InstaCure #1 sour cream Creamed Herring, 131 Killer Smoked Fish Salad, 114 Sour Orange Beef Jerky, 38–39 soy sauce Big Game Jerky, 44–45 Rousong (Pork Floss), 82–83, 83 Salmon Jerky, 122–23, 123 Slightly Smoky Soy Sauce Eggs, 143 spreads. See dips and spreads stew Bacalao, Tomato, and Olive Stew, 116, 117

188 

stock, 14 Chicken Stock, 94–95, 95 suet Pemmican (Native American Dried Fruit and Meat), 49–50 sustainable choices, 1, 3, 107, 129, 130

T

tallow how to make, 50 Khlea (Moroccan Preserved Lamb), 55–56 Pemmican (Native American Dried Fruit and Meat), 49–50 tarragon sprigs, fresh Pickled Shrimp, 134–35, 135 Pickled Tofu, 164–65, 165 Thanksgiving Turkey Jerky, 104–5 tofu Pickled Tofu, 164–65, 165 protein quantity and, 5 Sake-Brined Tofu, 166 Tofu Jerky, 162–63 tomatoes Bacalao, Tomato, and Olive Stew, 116, 117 Bacon, Roasted Tomato, and Onion Spread, 70, 71–72 tuna Best Tuna Salad, The, 126, 127 Canned Tuna, 124–25 turkey Smoked Turkey Leg, 103 Thanksgiving Turkey Jerky, 104–5

Index

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V

venison Big Game Jerky, 44–45, 46 vinegar. See apple cider vinegar; red wine vinegar; white wine vinegar

W

white wine vinegar, 9 Anchovies or Sardines, Cured, 136–37, 137 Worcestershire sauce Big Game Jerky, 44–45

Y

yogurt, 139 Banana-Yogurt “Pappadams,” 158, 159 Dried Yogurt Bombs, 156 fermentation and, 11, 11 Frozen Walnut-Yogurt Pops, 157 Miso-Yogurt Beef Jerky, 42–43 protein quantity and, 5 Yogurt, 154–55, 155

Index 

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