Colorado's Indian Peaks : Classic Hikes and Climbs [2 ed.] 9781555918194, 9781555914042

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COLORADO’S INDIAN PEAKS

COLORADO’S INDIAN PEAKS Classic Hikes and Climbs

Gerry Roach

FULCRUM PUBLISHING Golden, Colorado

Copyright © 1998 Gerry Roach Interior photographs copyright © 1998 Gerry Roach Front cover photograph of Lone Eagle Peak from Mirror Lake copyright © 1998 Eric Wunrow Book and map design by Bill Spahr Poem on page 19 copyright © 1982 by Eloise Roach All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the publisher. Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity and depends on both the good decisionmaking and safe climbing technique of the climber. The information contained in this book is based upon the experiences of the author and might not be perceived as accurate by other persons. This book is not a substitute for sound judgment. Extreme care should be taken when following any of the routes or techniques described in this book. This book is intended for use by hikers and climbers who have requisite training, experience and knowledge. It is not intended to be used as an instructional guide. Proper clothing and equipment are essential when attempting to climb any of the routes described in this book. Failure to have the requisite experience, equipment and conditioning may subject you to extreme physical danger, including injury and death. The safety of the routes described in this book may have changed since the book’s publication as well as any associated dangers. Maps pictured in this book are for route definition only; use updated, full-scale U.S.G.S. quadrangles for any actual climbs. Neither Fulcrum Publishing nor the author assume any liability for injury that may arise from the use of this book. There are no warranties, either express or implied, that the information contained within this book is reliable. There are no implied warranties of merchantability as to this book. There are no warranties that extend beyond the description on the face hereof. Use of this book indicates the user’s assumption of risk that it may contain errors as well as the user’s acknowledgment that the user is solely accountable for his or her own abilities to climb in a safe and responsible manner. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Roach, Gerry. Colorado’s Indian Peaks : classic hikes and climbs / Gerry Roach. p. cm. Includes index. ISBN 1-55591-404-7 (pbk.) 1. Hiking—Colorado—Indian Peaks Wilderness—Guidebooks. 2. Mountaineering—Colorado—Indian Peaks Wilderness—Guidebooks. 3. Colorado—Guidebooks. 4. Indian Peaks Wilderness (Colo.)—Guidebooks. I. Title. GV199.42.C62I538 1998 917.88’32—dc21 97-49102 CIP Printed in the United States of America 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 Fulcrum Publishing 4690 Table Mountain Drive, Suite 100 Golden, Colorado 80403 (800) 992-2908 • (303) 277-1623 www.fulcrumbooks.com

Dedicated to Franz Mohling and Carl Pfiffner

Blessed by the sun, Kissed by the moon, We made love on the summit. The peak lay still and deep Below us. —Gerry Roach

A storm over Apache Peak.

CONTENTS List of Photographs viii List of Maps ix Preface xi Introduction xiii Safety First xv Leave No Trace xix The Rating System xxi

Part I—Trailheads and Hiking Trails Chapter 1—Trailheads 2 Chapter 2—Hiking Trails 11

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Part II—The Peaks 19 Chapter 3—Ogalalla Peak to Navajo Peak 21 Chapter 4—Roaring Fork and Hell Canyon 63 Chapter 5—Lone Eagle Cirque 79 Chapter 6—Navajo Peak to Arapaho Pass 99 Chapter 7—Arapaho Pass to Rollins Pass 111 Chapter 8—Rollins Pass to Berthoud Pass 131 Chapter 9—Special Events and Divide Traverses 148 Tables 162 The Peaks 162 *Classic* Routes 166 Index 169 About the Author 177

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PHOTOGRAPHS viii

A storm over Apache Peak vi The east face of Mount Irving Hale x The summit block of Marten Peak 1 Thunderbolt Peak from the west 19 Elk Tooth and Ogalalla from the east 24 Ogalalla from the south 28 “Ooh La La!” from the north 29 Sawtooth from the southeast 31 “Algonquin” from the northeast 36 Audubon from the east 37 The southeast face of Paiute seen from Brainard Lake 41 Mount Toll from the east 43 Mount Toll from the west 44 The southwest couloirs of Shoshoni 49 Apache from the east 52 Fair Glacier on Apache 54 A perfect August day on Dicker’s Peck 56 Navajo Snowfield and north face of Navajo 59 Hiamovi Mountain and “Hiamovi Tower” from the southeast Cooper from the north 74 Cooper from the south 75 Lone Eagle Cirque from the north 79 Lone Eagle from Mirror Lake 87 “Cherokee” from the north 89 The northeast face of Achonee 92 “Hopi” from the north 95 The west face of North Arapaho 103 The north face of North Arapaho 104 South Arapaho from the south 107 The Arapahos from the east 109 Neva from the west 112 Neva from the east 115 The southeast face of Jasper 119 Devils Thumb from the west 123 Challenger Glacier from the east 127 Skyscraper Glacier from the east 128 Super Star couloir on James Peak 138 The east face of James Peak 140 Starlight couloir on James Peak 142 Mohling Traverse from the west 150 Southwest ridge of Marten Peak 161 Gerry Roach after Gasherbrum II 177

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INTRODUCTION

MAPS Map 1—Saint Vrain Mountain 20 Map 2—Middle Saint Vrain 23 Map 3—Ogalalla Peak 26 Map 4—Sawtooth Mountain 32 Map 5—Mount Audubon 38 Map 6—Apache Peak 48 Map 7—Lower Roaring Fork 62 Map 8—Watanga Mountain 64 Map 9—Hiamovi Mountain 70 Map 10—Monarch Lake 78 Map 11—Thunderbolt Peak 80 Map 12—Lone Eagle Cirque 84 Map 13—Arapaho Peaks 98 Map 14—Mount Neva 116 Map 15—“Skyscraper Peak” 124 Map 16—Rollins Pass 125 Map 17—East Portal 130 Map 18—James Peak 134 Map 19—Parry Peak 144 Map 20—Mount Flora 146

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The east face of Mount Irving Hale.

INTRODUCTION

PREFACE Colorado’s Indian Peaks: Classic Hikes and Climbs is a celebration of the joys that come from climbing Colorado’s peaks. The Indian Peaks Wilderness offers the hiker and mountaineer one of the finest arrays of alpine challenges in the Rocky Mountains. You can be in the heart of this wilderness in a few hours from Denver’s metropolitan area, and the proximity of these peaks to population centers makes them even more precious. There is a lifetime of adventures waiting for you in Colorado’s mountains. I discuss 21 trailheads, 29 trails, 49 peaks and 127 routes. The book’s scope is from the northern Indian Peaks Wilderness boundary to Berthoud Pass south of the wilderness. The peaks are described from north to south. Each peak’s routes start with the easiest route then continue from north to south. I grew up climbing with the following definition of difficulty: 5.7 is hard climbing, 5.8 is when you are really worried about falling off and 5.9 is when you are falling off. If that definition sounds familiar, then this book is for you. The hardest climb in this guide is rated 5.7. Over the years, I have cherished the easy routes as much as the harder ones, and I have tried to include a mixture of routes that will titillate the senses of almost anybody. All of the routes in this guide lead to the summit of a peak. This guide takes a fresh look at the wilderness. Thirty-three percent of the routes are walk-ups (Class 1, Class 2, Easy Snow), 37 percent are scrambles (Class 3, Moderate Snow) and 30 percent are technical climbs (Class 4, Class 5, Steep Snow). Thirty-three routes have been designated *Classic*. This book is designed to be used with good maps. The U.S.G.S. quadrangles are recommended. They are available in many shops as well as at the Map Sales Office in the Denver Federal Center (303-202-4700). The introduction to each chapter specifies which quadrangles are required. This is a guidebook pure and simple. It describes where to climb but not how to climb. No book can make your judgments, but there are several good instructional books that can aid the process

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of learning fundamentals. For an introduction to the sport of mountaineering, I recommend Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills by the Seattle Mountaineers. Make sure you get this book’s latest edition, as early editions are badly out of date. This guide is not a history book and does not record the names of people who did the first ascents of routes. Most of the climbs in this book are easy enough that the first ascents cannot be known with any certainty. These routes belong to everybody. You can spend days climbing in Colorado and never see another person. Most climbing activity is centered on a handful of routes. If you are tired of crowded routes, try Fair Glacier, Dicker’s Peck, “Iroquois” or Skyscraper Glacier. Colorado is full of wilderness! Unlike most guidebooks that are a compilation of many people’s route descriptions, this book is the result of one man’s labor of love. I started climbing in Colorado in 1955 and have spent the last 42 years climbing these routes. I have climbed every peak in this guide and finished climbing every named peak in the Indian Peaks Wilderness in 1978. I have climbed most of the routes in this guide. I specifically climbed many routes for this guide and wrote them up immediately after each climb. I have field-checked this guide extensively. I received valuable assistance from Chris Haaland, Steve Komito, Gary Neptune, Glenn Porzak and John Oppenlander of the U.S. Forest Service. The fact that one person has climbed and reported on these routes gives consistency to the descriptions. I believe climbing is a very personal activity, and I seldom give opinions that might intrude on yours. Still, my bias may have crept in from time to time. This guide is not comprehensive in its coverage of peaks and routes. I have not revealed all the secrets of these special peaks. There are many more routes I could have included. For every route I climbed, I saw two more! Never lose your spirit of discovery. You should finish each workout, each climb and each book wanting more. I welcome route information and constructive criticism from readers. Mail your comments to Gerry Roach, P.O. Box 3303, Boulder, CO 80303, or e-mail them to [email protected]. Anyone who climbs all the classic routes in this guide deserves the title Dr. Rangelove. Anyone who does that plus climbs all the peaks in the Indian Peaks Wilderness has clearly graduated Summit Cum Laude! Climb safely and don’t forget to have fun.

INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION The Indian Peaks Wilderness protects the mountain splendor located between Rocky Mountain National Park and Rollins Pass. Created in 1978, it is now the most frequently visited wilderness area in the Rocky Mountains. The Indian Peaks Wilderness is less than one-third the size of Rocky Mountain National Park and has less than one-third the number of named peaks in the park. Of its 35 named peaks, 32 are over 11,000 feet, 23 are over 12,000 feet and 7 are over 13,000 feet. Although the Indian Peaks Wilderness is smaller than Rocky Mountain National Park, it is no less spectacular. In addition to the important named peaks, this guide also covers many significant unnamed peaks. The worth of this wilderness to mountaineers can be measured by the size of this book, which covers more than two-thirds as much material as my guidebook to Rocky Mountain National Park. The regulations for wilderness areas are different than for national parks because the charters in the Wilderness Act are different than the charters of the National Park Service. Wilderness areas are administered by many departments but most of the Indian Peaks Wilderness is administered by the U.S. Forest Service, which is part of the Department of Agriculture. The National Park Service, part of the Department of the Interior, manages a narrow strip of the Indian Peaks Wilderness on the northern end of the wilderness. A summary of the wilderness regulations common to both agencies follows. All motorized and mechanical equipment and means of transport (including bicycles) are prohibited in wilderness areas. There are no roads into wilderness areas. There are no restrictions on technical climbing in the Indian Peaks Wilderness, but, as part of the nonmechanized policy, motorized drills are not allowed. A permit is required for camping in the wilderness area between June 1 and September 15. Commercial and organized groups must have permits for camping or day hiking at all times. The maximum group size is 12. Campsites must be at least 100 feet from lakes, streams and trails. Dogs must be leashed.

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS Permits can be obtained from the following U.S. Forest Service offices: Boulder Ranger District USDA Forest Service 2995 Baseline Road, Room 110 Boulder, CO 80303 (303) 444-6600 Office hours: Monday–Friday, 8:00 A.M.–4:30 P.M.

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Sulphur Ranger District USDA Forest Service 62429 U.S. Highway 40 Granby, CO 80446 (970) 887-4100 Summer office hours: Monday–Friday, 8:00 A.M.–4:30 P.M. Estes Park Office USDA Forest Service 161 Second Street Estes Park, CO 80517 (970) 586-3440 Summer office hours: 7 days a week, 9:00 A.M.–5:00 P.M. (may vary) Reservation requests can be made in person or by mail at the above offices after March 1. Phone requests are not accepted. In 1998 permits cost $5.00. Permits are issued for 19 travel zones in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. The popular Four Lakes Travel Zone west of Brainard Lake is closed to all camping from May 1 to November 30. Camping in the Caribou, Crater, Diamond and Jasper Lakes travel zones is restricted to designated sites only from May 1 to November 30. Beyond these restrictions, you can camp anywhere (even above treeline) in your travel zone. Camping in the wilderness area is limited to two weeks in any four-week period. These two weeks can be in one or more travel zones. Only a certain number of groups (sometimes small) are allowed each night in a travel zone. Fires are prohibited east of the Continental Divide and in several of the popular areas west of the divide. In spite of the apparent maze of regulations, it is easy to climb and camp in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Plan ahead, especially if you want to go to popular areas at popular times. There are some old-timers who think that the Indian Peaks have been ruined. I

INTRODUCTION disagree with them. Before 1978, the Indian Peaks were being loved to death. Environmental scars were everywhere. The permit system outlined above has been in effect for 15 years and the results are noticeable. The scars are healing. In the summer of 1987, I traversed the entire length of the Indian Peaks Wilderness and spent eight consecutive nights in the wilderness. I saw no roads, very few people and lots of wildlife. I had a magnificent experience and witnessed firsthand that, indeed, the wilderness system is working.

Safety First Climbing is dangerous and each individual should approach these peaks with caution. Conditions can vary tremendously depending on time of day and time of year. My route descriptions assume good summer conditions. Lightning is always a serious hazard in Colorado during the summer months. Snow conditions and cornices vary from year to year. Spring and early-summer avalanches can be a function of winter storms that occurred months earlier. The previous winter’s snowfall determines snow conditions in August. Before charging forth with your city energy and competitive urges, take some time to understand the mountain environment you are about to enter. Carefully study your chosen route and don’t be afraid to retreat if your condition, or the mountain’s, is unfavorable. Better yet, do an easier climb nearby and get familiar with the area. When both you and the mountain are ready, come back and do your dream climb.

Lightning Dangers • Lightning is dangerous! • Lightning is the greatest external hazard to summer mountaineering in Colorado. • Lightning kills people every year in Colorado’s mountains. • Direct hits are usually fatal. Precautions • Start early! Be off summits by noon and back in the valley by early afternoon.

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Observe thunderhead buildup carefully, noting speed and direction; towering thunderheads with black bottoms are bad. When lightning starts nearby, count the seconds between flash and thunder, then divide by 5 to get the distance to the flash in miles. Repeat to determine if lightning is approaching. Try to determine if the activity is cloud to cloud or ground strikes. Get off summits and ridges.

Protection • You cannot outrun a storm; physics wins. • When caught, seek a safety zone in the 45 degree cone near a point 5 to 10 times your height. • Be aware of ground currents; the current from a ground strike disperses along the ground or cliff, especially in wet cracks. • Wet ropes are good conductors. • Snow is not a good conductor. • Separate yourself from metal objects. • Avoid spark gaps under boulders and trees. • Disperse the group. Survivors can revive one who is hit. • Crouch on boot soles, ideally on dry, insulating material like moss or grass. Dirt is better than rock. Avoid water. • Do not put your hands down. Put elbows on knees and hands on head. This gives current a short path through your arms rather than the longer path through your vital organs. • Do not lie down; current easily goes through your vital organs. First Aid • Know and give CPR. Many lightning strike victims have been revived by CPR. • Treat for burns. • Evacuate.

Avalanche Hazard Forecasting • Avalanches are the greatest external hazard to winter mountaineering in Colorado. • Loose snow avalanches start at a single point and fan downward; the danger is highest after new snowfall. • Slab avalanches occur when a whole slope starts in motion at once.

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Consistent winds over 15 mph can build up soft slabs. Consistent winds from 25 to 50 mph can build up hard slabs. Hard slabs develop more rapidly at low temperatures and are sensitive to temperature changes. Most avalanches occur on slopes between 30 and 45 degrees. Most avalanches that trap people are triggered by the victims themselves. Most avalanches that trap skiers are relatively small. Avalanches occur on open slopes, in gullies and in stands of open trees. Ridges, outcrops and dense trees (too dense to ski comfortably) are safer. Beware of avalanche danger during and after heavy winter storms. The risk danger factor declines with time. The rate of decline depends strongly on temperature. Near 32°F, the danger may persist for only a few hours. Below 0°F, it may last for many days or even weeks. Deep snow serves to smooth out terrain irregularities and promote avalanching. Warm snow will bond to a warm surface much better than cold snow will bond to a cold surface. Therefore, watch the temperature at the start of a storm. It generally takes 10 to 12 inches of new snow to produce serious avalanche danger. Prolonged snowfalls of 1 inch per hour or greater should always be viewed with suspicion. Snowfalls that begin warm then cool off tend to be more stable than those with the opposite trend. Extensive sluffing after a fresh snowfall is evidence of stability. Sunballs rolling down a slope are indicators of rapid changes taking place in the snow. The danger is not high if the sunballs are small and penetrate only a few inches in the surface layer. If these balls grow in size during the day and eventually achieve the form of large snow wheels that penetrate deeply into the snow, then wet-snow avalanching may be imminent. “Talking snow,” a hollow drumlike sound under your footsteps or skis, or a booming sound with or without a dropping jar, is a sign of serious avalanche hazard. Other things being equal, convex slopes offer more slab avalanche danger than concave slopes; however, many avalanches do start on concave profiles.

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS Precautions • Never travel alone. • Avoid avalanche areas and times of high danger. The probability of getting caught is a function of the time you spend in the danger zone. • Carry at least one shovel and avalanche beacons, if possible.

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If you must cross an avalanche slope: • Go one at a time through the danger zone. If you are buried, your rescue depends on your unburied companions. • Remove wrist loops of your ski poles. • Unhitch any ski safety straps. • Put on hat, mittens and close your parka. • Loosen pack straps. If you are caught in an avalanche: • Discard poles, skis and pack. • Attempt to stay on the surface with a swimming motion. • Attempt to work to the side of the avalanche. • Grab trees. • Close your mouth. • As the avalanche slows, cover your face with your hands. • Make an air space. • Don’t shout when buried. Sound goes into but not out of snow. Rescue • Don’t panic. A buried person only has a 30% chance of survival after 30 minutes. Organized rescue in most backcountry situations is at least one hour from the scene. The lives of your buried companions depend largely on what you do. • Assess any additional avalanche hazard and plan escape routes. • Mark the last seen point. • If equipped with avalanche beacons, the entire unburied party must turn to receive. Hunt in a pattern that zeroes in on the strongest signal. Turn volume down and pinpoint the victim’s exact position, then dig. • Do a quick search below the last seen point. Scruff around. Look for any clues and mark their location. Search likely areas near trees, on benches and near the end of the debris. • Start a thorough search. Search the most likely area first. Use ski poles as probes if that’s all you have. Do a coarse probe

INTRODUCTION

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with probe holes about two feet apart. Have all searchers in a straight line moving uphill. A coarse probe has a 70% chance of finding a victim buried in the probe area. Repeat coarse probe of most likely area several times then move on to the next most likely area. Go for help. When to send some of your party for additional help is a judgment call depending on the size of your group, how far back you are and the availability of trained rescue groups.

Leave No Trace If you are going to use the wilderness resource then it is your responsibility to help protect it from environmental damage. The old adage “Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints” is no longer good enough. The footprints of thousands of visitors can cause extensive damage to fragile alpine areas. The ground plants above treeline are especially vulnerable as they cling to a tenuous existence. If you wipe out a patch of tundra with a careless step it may take a hundred years for the plant to recover. In some cases it may never recover. The routes in this book all pass through the alpine zone. Tread lightly. Stick to the trails. Walk on snow when you can. Walk on rocks in the tundra, not on the tundra itself. Let your eyes do the walking sometimes. You do not have to explore every inch on foot. Respect the environment you are entering. If you don’t show respect, you are an intruder, not a visitor. The tenets of the Leave No Trace movement are simple. Learn them. Do them. For information and materials on Leave No Trace call (800) 332-4100. The six tenets are:

1. Plan Ahead and Prepare • Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you are visiting. • Visit the backcountry in small groups. • Avoid popular areas during times of high use. • Choose equipment and clothing in subdued colors. • Repackage food into reusable containers.

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2. Camp and Travel on Durable Surfaces On the Trail • Stay on designated trails. Walk in single file in the middle of the path. • Do not shortcut switchbacks. • Where multiple trails exist, choose the one that is most worn. • Where no trails exist, spread out across the terrain. • When traveling cross-country, choose the most durable surfaces available: rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. • Rest on rock or in designated sites. • Avoid wetlands and riparian areas. • Use a map and compass to eliminate the need for rock cairns, tree scars and ribbons. • Step to the downhill side of the trail and talk softly when encountering pack stock. At Camp • Choose an established, legal site that will not be damaged by your stay. • Restrict activities to the area where vegetation is compacted or absent. • Keep pollutants out of water sources by camping at least 200 feet (70 adult steps) from lakes and streams. • Move campsites frequently.

3. Pack It in, Pack It Out • Pack everything that you bring into wild country back out with you. • Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations securely. • Pick up all spilled foods. 4. Properly Dispose of What You Can’t Pack Out • Deposit human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp or trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished. • Use toilet paper or wipes sparingly. Pack them out. • To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water 200 feet away from streams or lakes, and use small amounts of biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dish water. • Inspect your campsite for trash and evidence of your stay. Pack out all trash: yours and others’.

INTRODUCTION 5. Leave What You Find • Treat our national heritage with respect. Leave plants, rocks and historical artifacts as you find them. • Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site should not be necessary. • Let nature’s sounds prevail. Keep loud voices and noises to a minimum. • Control pets at all times. Remove dog feces. • Do not build structures or furniture or dig trenches. 6. Minimize Use and Impact of Fires • Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the backcountry. Always carry a lightweight stove for cooking. Enjoy a candle lantern instead of a fire. • When fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans or mound fires. Do not scar large rocks or overhangs. • Gather sticks no larger than an adult’s wrist. • Do not snap branches off live, dead or downed trees. • Put out campfires completely. • Remove all unburned trash from fire ring and scatter the cool ashes over a large area well away from camp.

The Rating System I have used the Yosemite Decimal System to rate each route’s difficulty. Each route’s rating has three parts: Grade, Class and Snow Steepness. Grade rates the route’s overall difficulty. Class rates the route’s most difficult free-climbing rock pitch. There are no aid routes in this guide. Snow Steepness rates the route’s steepest snow or ice (if any).

Grade A Roman numeral from I to IV, representing an ascending order of difficulty, denotes a route’s overall difficulty. This number does not apply to a route’s individual pitches or moves. As used in this guide, the Grade rates a route’s overall length and commitment as follows: Grade I: A short day climb. May require up to 3,000 vertical feet of elevation gain and/or three pitches of technical climbing.

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS Grade II: A day climb. May require up to 6,000 vertical feet of elevation gain and/or six pitches of technical climbing. Grade III: A long day climb. May require up to 10,000 vertical feet of elevation gain and/or 10 pitches of technical climbing and/or a considerable amount of Class 3 scrambling. Grade IV: A very long day climb. Will require more than 10,000 vertical feet of elevation gain and/or 10 pitches of technical climbing.

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There are no Grade IV routes in this guide, but you can combine two or more climbs to produce a route of this grade. For example, the North Face of Lone Eagle Peak plus the Mohling Traverse is a Grade IV route. The word “Grade” is usually implicit and does not appear in the ratings. Only the Roman numeral appears. The term “technical climbing” refers to Class 4 or Class 5 climbing on rock, or climbing on a snow slope steeper than 40 degrees. “Classes” are defined later. A “pitch” is usually 100 to 150 feet long. People can and have done each route in this guide in one day from the nearest trailhead. The use of a high camp can make any route easier. My Grades are based on the route being done in one day from the nearest trailhead. If you do a technically easy Grade III route with a lot of elevation gain from a high camp, it will only be Grade II or Grade I. To grade your ascent from a high camp, evaluate the vertical gain and number of technical pitches from the high camp to the summit(s). You can use these two criteria, as listed above, to grade any ascent. I have given the round-trip mileage and elevation gain for each route. The elevation gain includes any extra ups, both on the ascent and descent. This typically happens when you must traverse over false summits. If you ascend one route and descend another, your round-trip mileage may be different from the mileage listed with each route. This is most likely to be the case when you ascend a difficult route and descend an easier route.

Class A route’s class is denoted by the word “Class,” followed by a number from 1 to 5.14, in ascending order of difficulty of the route’s most difficult free climbing rock pitch. Difficulties from Class 1 to Class 4 are described with a single digit only. When the difficulty reaches Class 5, the description includes decimal places. In this guide Class 5 difficulty ranges from 5.0 to 5.7. I have made no attempt to

INTRODUCTION distinguish between 5.0, 5.1 and 5.2. I indicate difficulty in this range with Class 5.0–5.2. I have not used adjectives such as easy, difficult or severe for the rock pitches. What is easy for one person may be difficult for another, and words like this only confuse the issue. In place of adjectives, I use examples to describe difficulty. The answer to the question, “Just how hard is Class 4 anyway?” is “Climb Lone Eagle Peak’s Solo Flight route, then you will know.” A list of example routes follows. I have ordered the routes roughly from easiest to hardest within each Class. Class 1: Class 2: Class 3: Class 4:

Class 5.0–5.2: Class 5.3–5.4: Class 5.5:

Class 5.6: Class 5.7:

Mount Audubon–East Slopes Mount Saint Vrain–East Slopes James Peak–North Slopes South Arapaho Peak–Southeast Ridge Paiute Peak–East Ridge Apache Peak–East Slopes Navajo Peak–West Chimney Lone Eagle Peak–Solo Flight Mount Neva–North Ridge Mount Toll–Northeast Ramp Navajo Peak–Navajo Snowfield and North Face Devils Thumb–Devils Spiral “Hiamovi Tower”–Southeast Buttress Dicker’s Peck–Dicking Around “Hiamovi Tower”–Variation 4 of Southeast Buttress Mount Toll–Northeast Face Mount Toll–North Ridge “Hiamovi Tower”–Variation 3 of Southeast Buttress Lone Eagle Peak–North Face

These difficulty ratings are for good dry conditions. High-country rock rapidly becomes more difficult as it becomes wet, and a route becomes a different climb entirely when snow covered. For example, the difficulty of Paiute’s East Ridge can jump from Class 3 to Class 4 and even Class 5 when it is wet or snow covered. I rarely discuss descent routes. You can descend by reversing the ascent route or by descending easier routes. When I include technical routes on a peak, I always discuss an easier route and this

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is usually the logical descent route. There are often several easy routes to choose from. You must use good mountaineering judgment when selecting descent routes. Since I have defined difficulty on rock by example, people unfamiliar with the Yosemite Decimal System will have to do some climbs before they understand what the different class ratings mean. This is particularly true for the more difficult ratings. For the easier ratings, the following descriptions can help. Class 1 is trail hiking or any hiking across open country that is no more difficult than walking on a maintained trail. Class 2 is offtrail hiking. Class 2 usually means bushwhacking or hiking on a talus slope. You are not yet using handholds for upward movement. Class 3 is the easiest climbing category, and people usually call it scrambling. You are beginning to look for and use handholds for upward movement. You are now using basic climbing, not walking, movements. Occasionally putting your hand down for balance while crossing a talus slope does not qualify as Class 3. That is still Class 2. Class 4 and Class 5 are in the realm of climbing. As the difficulty increases, the climbing process becomes more and more thoughtful. For a good understanding of difficulties harder than Class 3, go out and do some of the example climbs. Neither the Grade nor the Class ratings make any statement about how exposed a route is. Exposure is a subjective fear that varies widely from person to person. Exposure usually increases with difficulty, but there are some notable exceptions to this rule. Some Class 2 passages are very exposed.

Snow Steepness The third part of the rating system used in this guide refers to the route’s steepest snow or ice. The Snow Steepness rating is not part of the Yosemite Decimal System, but I have added it to provide more information about a route. If there is no snow or ice on a route, then this designation is absent. Since a slope’s steepness can be measured, this part of the rating is easy to define. The following adjectives refer to a snow slope’s angle. Easy: Moderate: Steep: Very Steep: Vertical:

0 to 30 degrees 30 to 45 degrees 45 to 60 degrees 60 to 80 degrees 80 to 90 degrees

INTRODUCTION Climbers seldom measure a slope angle accurately. They usually estimate the angle by the slope’s feel, and these feelings vary widely. Even experienced climbers are notorious for guessing a slope angle to be steeper than it is. I have kept this in mind when determining the slope angles used in this guide. When a slope angle hovers around the critical junction between Moderate and Steep, I apply the Steep rating. My difficulty ratings make no statement about the equipment that you should or should not use. Historically, Class 3 meant unroped climbing and Class 4 was roped climbing. Unfortunately, there is a lot of historical momentum behind those old definitions. I disagree with defining difficulty in terms of equipment. Under the old definition, when people tell me that they “Third Classed” a pitch, all I know is that they climbed it unroped. I do not know how hard it is. After all, the Diamond on Longs Peak (5.10) has been “Third Classed.” I know how hard a pitch I am willing to do unroped, but I do not know how hard a pitch they are willing to do unroped. There are many people who can free solo up and down every route in this guide, and there are many more who cannot do any of the routes, with or without a rope. The decision of when to rope up must always be the individual’s. The Yosemite Decimal System is widely used in this country, but the National Climbing Classification System (NCCS) is also used. The following table summarizes the correspondence between the two systems. Decimal Class 1 Class 2 Class 3 Class 4 Class 5.0–5.2 Class 5.3–5.4 Class 5.5–5.6 Class 5.7 Class 5.8 Class 5.9 Class 5.10a, b Class 5.10c, d Class 5.11a, b

NCCS F1 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 F9 F10 F11 F12

xxv

INDIAN PEAKS WILDERNESS AREA i Co n t

Estes Park

n

en ta l e vid Di

40 

Rocky Mountain National Park

Lake Granby

36 

7

Lyons Allenspark

7 Longmont

Indian Peaks Wilderness Area

Granby

36 

Ward

72 40 





Winter Park Ski Area

Eldora Ski Area

25 

Boulder

119

36 

Nederland Rollinsville

119 Berthoud Pass

 Dumont

70 

 Loveland Ski Area



70 

Golden

6 

Denver

70 

Colorado

TRAILHEADS Part I

TRAILHEADS AND HIKING TRAILS The first part of this book gives directions to trailheads and basic information about the main trails of the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Hiking these trails is a rewarding experience by itself. One of the satisfactions of climbing in Colorado is just getting to the peaks. The peaks’ isolation from civilization is what makes them so special. We have plenty of civilization. We need more peaks. A civilized version of a peak is called a gym. There is no comparison between a gym and Lone Eagle Peak. These trails travel through the buffer zone between civilization and the peaks. The approach to a peak provides an important transition time when you leave the “other world” behind and prepare yourself for an encounter with the real world.

The summit block of Marten Peak.

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS Chapter 1

TRAILHEADS 2

This chapter gives directions to the major trailheads of the Indian Peaks Wilderness. A trailhead is the important place where the machines of civilization are left behind. If only we could stay up forever, but alas we must return to the trailhead! The trailhead hears all the hopes, fears and pompous boasting at the beginning of a trip, and it sees all the smiles and frowns at the end of a trip. It hears the victory stories and the horror stories. It feels all the fancy strutting and the limping, blistered feet. If only the Long Lake Trailhead could talk. Oh, the stories that it could tell! Directions to the trailheads begin at a U.S. or Colorado highway. The major highways leading to the east side of the Indian Peaks are Colorado 7 from Lyons, Colorado 119 from Boulder and Colorado 72 from Denver. Portions of these highways run north-south on the east side of the Indian Peaks and are known as the Peak to Peak Highway. The major highways west of Denver are U.S. 40, Interstate 70 and U.S. 6. U.S. 40 crosses the Continental Divide at Berthoud Pass and continues north along the west side of the Indian Peaks. Interstate 70 goes through the Eisenhower Tunnel under the divide and U.S. 6 goes over the divide at Loveland Pass. This chapter is divided in two sections: trailheads east of the divide and trailheads west of the divide. Both sections are organized from north to south. Only trailheads that provide access to the peaks in this guide are included.

Trailheads East of the Divide Saint Vrain Mountain Trailhead This trailhead is at 8,940 feet and provides access to the Mount Saint Vrain Trail. This trailhead is south of Allenspark on Colorado 72 (Peak to Peak Highway). Allenspark is 3.2 miles west of

TRAILHEADS the junction of Colorado 7 and Colorado 72 on the Peak to Peak Highway. Find “Ski Road Co Rd 107” in downtown Allenspark and measure from this point. Go south on Ski Road through Allenspark for 1.5 miles to a signed Y junction. Take the west (right) fork and switchback up the hill for another 0.5 mile to the marked trailhead.

Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead This trailhead is at 8,750 feet and provides access to the Buchanan Pass Trail and the Saint Vrain Glacier Trail. This trailhead is west of Colorado 72 (Peak to Peak Highway) and can be reached from the north or the south. For the northern approach, measure from the junction of Colorado 7 and Colorado 72 on the Peak to Peak Highway. From this junction, go south 4.1 miles on Colorado 72 to Middle Saint Vrain Road. For the southern approach, go north 6.1 miles from Ward on Colorado 72 to Middle Saint Vrain Road. From the junction of Middle Saint Vrain Road and Colorado 72, go west 1.2 miles on Middle Saint Vrain Road to the trailhead. The Buchanan Pass Trail climbs west on the north side of Middle Saint Vrain Creek and a 4WD road climbs west on the south side of the creek. With a 4WD vehicle you can drive west an additional 4.0 miles to the Indian Peaks Wilderness boundary and reduce the hiking mileage to either Buchanan Pass or Saint Vrain Glaciers. This road really is a 4WD road and passenger cars will not like it. It may be closed during wet conditions. Beaver Creek Trailhead This trailhead is at 9,200 feet and provides access to the Beaver Creek Trail and the Buchanan Pass Trail. This trailhead is west of Colorado 72 (Peak to Peak Highway) and can be reached from the north or the south. For the northern approach, measure from the junction of Colorado 7 and Colorado 72. From this junction, go south 7.6 miles on Colorado 72 to South Saint Vrain Road. For the southern approach, go north 2.6 miles from Ward on Colorado 72 to South Saint Vrain Road. From the junction of South Saint Vrain Road and Colorado 72, go west 2.7 miles on South Saint Vrain Road to the trailhead. The trailhead is on the north side of Beaver Reservoir. If you are equipped with a passenger car and your destination is Buchanan Pass, then you may want to choose this trailhead rather

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS than the Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead. The Beaver Creek Trailhead is 450 vertical feet higher than the Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead. The distance to Buchanan Pass is slightly shorter but the trail is rougher.

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Mitchell Lake Trailhead This trailhead is at 10,500 feet and provides access to the Buchanan Pass Trail, the Beaver Creek Trail, the Mount Audubon Trail and the Blue Lake Trail. This trailhead is west of Colorado 72 (Peak to Peak Highway) and can be reached from the north or the south. For the northern approach, go south 10.2 miles on Colorado 72 from its junction with Colorado 7. For the southern approach, go north 12.0 miles on Colorado 72 from Nederland to the Brainard Lake Road, which is just north of Ward. Turn west on Brainard Lake Road and go 4.9 miles on a paved road to Brainard Lake. Go 0.4 mile around the north side of Brainard Lake to a junction on the west side of the lake with a sign for both the Long Lake and the Mitchell Lake trailheads. Turn west (right), go 0.1 mile to a junction, take the northern (right) road and continue 0.3 mile to the trailhead. Long Lake Trailhead This trailhead is at 10,500 feet and provides access to the Pawnee Pass Trail and the Isabelle Glacier Trail. This trailhead is west of Colorado 72 (Peak to Peak Highway) and can be reached from the north or the south. For the northern approach, go south 10.2 miles on Colorado 72 from its junction with Colorado 7. For the southern approach, go north 12.0 miles on Colorado 72 from Nederland to Brainard Lake Road, which is just north of Ward. Turn west on Brainard Lake Road and go 4.9 miles on a paved road to Brainard Lake. Go 0.4 mile around the north side of Brainard Lake to a junction on the west side of the lake with a sign for both the Long Lake and the Mitchell Lake trailheads. Turn west (right), go 0.1 mile to a junction, take the southern (left) road and continue 0.4 mile to the trailhead. There is a large parking lot at this trailhead, but this is the most popular trailhead in the Indian Peaks and the parking lot often overflows on sunny summer Sundays. Rainbow Lakes Trailhead This trailhead is at 9,960 feet and provides access to the Glacier Rim Trail and the Rainbow Lakes Trail. This trailhead is west of Colorado 72 (Peak to Peak Highway) and can be reached from the

TRAILHEADS north or the south. For the northern approach, go south 15.0 miles on Colorado 72 from its junction with Colorado 7. For the southern approach, go north 7.2 miles on Colorado 72 from Nederland to a road marked with a sign for the University of Colorado Mountain Research Camp. Turn west off Colorado 72 and follow Boulder County Road 116 5.2 miles to the trailhead. Stay left at 0.8 mile and at 3.5 miles. The last 4.0 miles of this road are very rocky and rough but still passable for most passenger cars. A Forest Service campground is located near the trailhead.

Fourth of July Trailhead This trailhead is at 10,150 feet and provides access to the Arapaho Glacier Trail, the Arapaho Pass Trail and the Diamond Lake Trail. To reach it, go south 0.5 mile on Colorado 119 from Nederland to the Eldora turnoff. Turn north (right) off Colorado 119, go west past the turn to the Eldora Ski Area and continue west to the town of Eldora. It is 3.2 miles from Colorado 119 to the town of Eldora. From the center of Eldora at 6th Street, continue west 1.5 miles on a dirt road to a signed junction. Take the northern (right) road and continue up a series of steep hills 4.5 miles to the trailhead, which is just beyond the Buckingham Campground. There are a reasonable number of parking spaces at or near the trailhead. The last 4.5 miles are rough but passable for most passenger cars. The road is graded each June. Hessie Trailhead This trailhead is at 9,000 feet and provides access to the Devils Thumb Trail, the Woodland Lake Trail, the King Lake Trail and the Bob and Betty Lakes Trail. To reach the Hessie Trailhead, go south 0.5 mile on Colorado 119 from Nederland to the Eldora turnoff. Turn north (right) off Colorado 119, go west past the turn to the Eldora Ski Area and continue west to the town of Eldora. It is 3.2 miles from Colorado 119 to the town of Eldora. From the center of Eldora at 6th Street, continue west 1.5 miles on a dirt road to a signed junction. Take the southern (left) road and continue for a final 0.5 mile past the old Hessie townsite to the end of the road at the North Fork of Middle Boulder Creek. The last 0.5 mile of the road are very rough and may not be suitable for some passenger cars. Parking at the end of the road is limited, and it is best to park at the Hessie townsite or at the signed junction.

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS Rollins Pass Trailhead Both the eastern and western approaches to Rollins Pass are discussed later in this chapter in the section covering trailheads on the west side of the Continental Divide.

6

East Portal Trailhead This trailhead is at 9,200 feet and provides access to the Forest Lakes Trail and the South Boulder Creek Trail. The South Boulder Creek Trail reaches Rogers Pass on the Continental Divide. East Portal is the eastern entrance to the Moffat Tunnel under the Continental Divide. To reach East Portal, go to Rollinsville on Colorado 119 (Peak to Peak Highway). Rollinsville is 4.9 miles south of Nederland and 21.1 miles north of U.S. 6. Turn west on a good dirt road and follow it west 8.2 miles to East Portal. Park 200 yards east of the entrance to the Moffat Tunnel and cross to the south side of the railroad tracks near the tunnel. The start of the trail is 100 yards southwest. Lower Mammoth Gulch Trailhead This trailhead is at 10,340 feet and provides access to the Ute Trail and the east side of James Peak. A 4WD vehicle is required to reach this trailhead. Go to Rollinsville on Colorado 119 (Peak to Peak Highway). Rollinsville is 4.9 miles south of Nederland and 21.1 miles north of U.S. 6. Turn west on a good dirt road and follow it west 5.0 miles to Tolland. Continue west another 0.2 mile to Mammoth Gulch Road. Turn south (left) and follow Mammoth Gulch Road 2.0 miles to another junction. Turn west (right) and follow the 4WD road west 3.8 miles to the end of the road in Mammoth Gulch. Upper Mammoth Gulch Trailhead This trailhead is at 11,570 feet and provides access to the Ute Trail and James Peak’s east side. A 4WD vehicle is required to reach this trailhead. Go to Rollinsville on Colorado 119 (Peak to Peak Highway). Rollinsville is 4.9 miles south of Nederland and 21.1 miles north of U.S. 6. Turn west on a good dirt road and follow it west 5.0 miles to Tolland. Continue west another 0.2 mile to Mammoth Gulch Road. Turn south (left) and follow Mammoth Gulch Road 4.0 miles to another junction at the old townsite of Nugget. (You can also reach this junction from Central City via Apex.) Turn west and

TRAILHEADS follow the 4WD road west 3.0 miles as it climbs around the north side of Kingston Peak to the end of the road on the steep northfacing slope above Mammoth Gulch. In June snowbanks block this road at 11,000 feet.

Saint Mary’s Glacier Trailhead This trailhead is at 10,380 feet and provides access to the Saint Mary’s Glacier Trail and James Peak’s east side. To reach it, take Exit 238 off Interstate 70. This exit is 2.0 miles west of Exit 240 in the center of Idaho Springs. After exiting the interstate, continue west 0.3 mile to Fall River Road. Turn north (right) onto Fall River Road and follow it 9.0 miles to a large parking lot on the west (left) side of the road. Park here or at a smaller lot 100 yards north on the east (right) side of the road. The Saint Mary’s Glacier Trail starts on the west side of the Fall River Road just north of this small parking lot. The area around Saint Mary’s Glacier contains a lot of private property, but public access to the glacier is allowed on the main trail. Loch Lomond Trailhead This trailhead is at 11,200 feet and provides access to James Peak’s southeast side and Mount Bancroft’s east side. A 4WD vehicle is required to get all the way to Loch Lomond. To reach Loch Lomond, take Exit 238 off Interstate 70. This exit is 2.0 miles west of Exit 240 in the center of Idaho Springs. After exiting the interstate, continue west 0.3 mile to Fall River Road. Turn north (right) onto Fall River Road and follow it 8.4 miles to Road 275. There is a maze of subdivision roads west of Fall River Road, and the road to Loch Lomond is not marked in any way. The following directions should help until new roads are built. From the junction of Fall River Road and Road 275, turn west (left) on Road 275 (dirt). Measuring from this point, go straight at 0.15 mile, straight at 0.55 mile, slightly left at 0.7 mile and right at 1.05 miles. Follow this road another 2.0 miles to Loch Lomond. A 4WD vehicle is required for the last 1.75 miles to the lake. Fall River Trailhead This trailhead is at 10,740 feet and provides access to the east sides of Mounts Bancroft, Parry, Eva and Witter. To reach it, take Exit 238 off Interstate 70. This exit is 2.0 miles west of Exit 240 in the center of Idaho Springs. After exiting the interstate, continue west

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS

8

0.3 mile to Fall River Road. Turn north (right) onto Fall River Road and follow it 6.7 miles to a dirt road heading west from a switchback on Fall River Road. Turn west (left) onto this dirt road and follow it west 2.4 miles to a Y junction at 10,400 feet. The road to this point is rough but passable for most passenger cars. The southern (left) branch of the Y junction is a steep 4WD road that leads west a mile to Chinns Lake and Sherwin Lake. This is the most direct route to Witter Peak. The northern (right) branch of the Y junction is the main road and it continues west a final 0.9 mile to a point below Fall River Reservoir. This reservoir is not named on the 1974 Empire Quadrangle. The final 0.3 mile of this road are steep and may not be suitable for some passenger cars. Bancroft, Parry and Eva are all easily reached from Fall River Reservoir. Witter can be reached from the Fall River Reservoir by hiking south 300 yards to Chinns Lake.

Trailheads West of the Divide Roaring Fork Trailhead This trailhead is at 8,300 feet and provides access to the Roaring Fork Trail. To reach it, go 11.0 miles south from Grand Lake on U.S. 34 or go 5.0 miles north on U.S. 34 from U.S. 40 near Granby. Turn east and follow a good dirt road 9.4 miles along the south side of Lake Granby to Big Rock Campground. This campground is at the west end of Arapaho Bay on the west end of Lake Granby. Turn northwest (left) and go 0.8 mile along the north side of Arapaho Bay to the trailhead located on the north side of the road near Moraine Campground. Monarch Lake Trailhead This trailhead is at 8,340 feet and provides access to Cascade Trail, Hell Canyon Trail, Gourd Lake Trail, Buchanan Pass Trail, Crater Lake Trail and Arapaho Pass Trail. This is one of the major trailheads on the west side of the divide and it serves a lot of territory! To reach the Monarch Lake Trailhead, go 11.0 miles south from Grand Lake on U.S. 34 or go 5.0 miles north on U.S. 34 from U.S. 40 near Granby. Turn east and follow a good dirt road 9.4 miles along the south side of Lake Granby to Big Rock Campground.

TRAILHEADS This campground is at the west end of Arapaho Bay on the west end of Lake Granby. From the campground, continue southeast another 0.7 mile to the trailhead.

Meadow Creek Trailhead This trailhead is at 10,050 feet and provides access to the Caribou Pass Trail and the Columbine Lake Trail. It is one of the highest trailheads on the west side of the divide. To reach it, go 2.8 miles north on U.S. 40 from the center of Fraser or go southeast 1.1 miles on U.S. 40 from the Tabernash post office. Turn east on a dirt road marked with a sign indicating public access to forest service land. The total distance from this point to the trailhead is 11.0 miles. Measuring from U.S. 40, turn left at 0.2 mile, left at 1.0 miles, left at 6.0 miles, right at 6.7 miles and reach Meadow Creek Reservoir after 8.4 miles. Continue on the main road around the north side of the reservoir and turn left at 10.8 miles. The trailhead is at the edge of a meadow 0.2 mile beyond this turn. Devils Thumb Park Trailhead This trailhead is at 9,650 feet and provides access to the west end of the Corona Trail and Devils Thumb Pass. To reach it, leave U.S. 40 just north of Fraser and turn east onto County Road 8. Go 7.8 miles east and then north to a spur road. Turn east (right) on the spur road and follow it for 0.3 mile. Park near a dam on Cabin Creek which is 0.5 mile west of Devils Thumb Park. The Corona Trail is faint across the meadows of Devils Thumb Park but becomes distinct on the park’s east side. Rollins Pass Trailhead This trailhead is on the Continental Divide at 11,671 feet and provides access to the Corona Trail, the Bob and Betty Lakes Trail, the King Lake Trail and the Continental Divide south of Rollins Pass. The old Corona townsite is on Rollins Pass, which is also referred to as Corona Pass. The road over Rollins Pass follows an old railroad grade and is quite a piece of construction work. Rollins Pass can be reached by vehicle from the west side of the divide but not from the east. From the west side of the divide, go 1.5 miles south from the main entrance to the Winter Park ski area on U.S. 40 or go 1.7 miles north from the center of the town of Winter Park on U.S. 40. Turn east onto Rollins Pass Road and

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS

10

follow it 13.8 miles to the pass. The dirt road is gentle, although rough near the pass, and is passable for some passenger cars. The Indian Peaks Wilderness boundary is 100 yards north of the pass. Rollins Pass Road is closed to motor vehicles on the east side of the divide because of collapses in the Needle Eye Tunnel and aging trestles on the north side of Point 11,829. Hikers can reach the pass from the east with a 2.0-mile hike from Yankee Doodle Lake. To reach Yankee Doodle Lake, turn west at Rollinsville on Colorado 119 and go 7.5 miles to the east end of Rollins Pass Road, which climbs the hill north of the valley. Follow Rollins Pass Road 9.7 miles to Yankee Doodle Lake.

Rogers Pass Trailhead This trailhead is at 11,860 feet and provides access to the Ute Trail, the South Boulder Creek Trail and the Continental Divide north of Rogers Pass. Rogers Pass is on the Continental Divide 5.4 miles south of Rollins Pass. It can no longer be reached by vehicle from the west side of the divide. To reach Rogers Pass, go 1.5 miles south from the main entrance to the Winter Park ski area on U.S. 40 or go 1.7 miles north from the center of the town of Winter Park on U.S. 40. Turn east onto Rollins Pass Road and follow it 10.2 miles to Riflesight Notch. Park here. This point can be reached with a passenger car. Leave Rollins Pass Road, turn south (right) on the old 4WD road and hike on it for 2.3 miles to Rogers Pass.

HIKING TRAILS Chapter 2

HIKING TRAILS This chapter describes the major trails of the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Only the trails that provide access to the peaks in this guide are covered. The minor trails that prowl the lowlands are not included. The intent of this chapter is to provide the basic information required to get you to the high country. Each trail is matched with its parent trailhead(s) and is given a unique name that is used throughout the book. Sometimes there are multiple names for the same trail. For example, the names used by the U.S. Park Service and U.S. Forest Service do not always match the names on the U.S.G.S. quadrangles. Sometimes the names on signs at the trailheads or along the trails do not match the other sources. In general, I have used the names that appear on the U.S.G.S. quadrangles. This chapter is divided in two sections: trails east of the Continental Divide and trails west of the divide. Both sections are organized from north to south.

Trails East of the Divide Mount Saint Vrain Trail This trail starts from the Mount Saint Vrain Trailhead, climbs over the Meadow Mountain–Mount Saint Vrain saddle and descends to the Buchanan Pass Trail. From the Mount Saint Vrain Trailhead, the trail climbs west, enters the Indian Peaks Wilderness after 0.6 mile and reaches the 11,220-foot saddle south of Meadow Mountain after 3.0 miles. The trail enters Rocky Mountain National Park for the next 0.5 mile as it climbs south to the 11,340-foot saddle northeast of Mount Saint Vrain. The trail continues south for another 0.5 mile across Mount Saint Vrain’s southeast shoulder, then it descends southwest for 2.0 miles to join the Buchanan Pass Trail at the wilderness boundary at 9,800 feet.

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS Saint Vrain Glacier Trail This trail starts from the Buchanan Pass Trail at the Indian Peaks Wilderness boundary on the east side of the Continental Divide. This point is 4.0 miles west of the Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead. The Saint Vrain Glacier Trail climbs northwest for an additional 4.0 miles to Gibraltar Lake at the base of the southern Saint Vrain Glaciers.

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Buchanan Pass Trail (East) On the east side of the Continental Divide, this trail starts at the Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead. The Buchanan Pass Trail climbs west on the north side of Middle Saint Vrain Creek and a 4WD road climbs west on the south side of the creek. With a 4WD vehicle you can drive west an additional 4.0 miles to the Indian Peaks Wilderness boundary and reduce the hiking mileage to either Buchanan Pass or Saint Vrain Glaciers. The 4WD road may be closed during wet conditions. From the wilderness boundary, the Buchanan Pass Trail climbs southwest then west 2.8 miles to Buchanan Pass at 11,837 feet. The total distance from the Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead to Buchanan Pass is 6.8 miles. Beaver Creek Trail The north end of this trail is at the Beaver Creek Trailhead and the southern end is at the Mitchell Lake Trailhead. The trail goes west 3.0 miles from the Beaver Creek Trailhead to the Indian Peaks Wilderness boundary. This point is 4.5 miles north of the Mitchell Lake Trailhead. A spur trail leads west from this point 1.5 miles to the Buchanan Pass Trail. Mount Audubon Trail This trail leaves the Beaver Creek Trail 1.5 miles north of the Mitchell Lake Trailhead and climbs up Mount Audubon’s east slopes. It is 3.9 miles from the Mitchell Lake Trailhead to Mount Audubon’s summit. Blue Lake Trail This trail starts at the Mitchell Lake Trailhead and goes west to Mitchell Lake and Blue Lake in the basin between Mounts Audubon, Paiute and Toll. It is 1.0 mile to Mitchell Lake and 2.0 miles to Blue Lake.

HIKING TRAILS Pawnee Pass Trail This trail starts at the Long Lake Trailhead and goes west past Long Lake to Lake Isabelle. It is 2.25 miles from the Long Lake Trailhead to Lake Isabelle. From Lake Isabelle, the trail climbs steeply northwest to Pawnee Pass. It is 4.25 miles from the Long Lake Trailhead to Pawnee Pass. The trail above Lake Isabelle is incorrectly marked on the 1978 Ward Quadrangle. The map shows the trail climbing above Lake Isabelle’s west end, when in reality it climbs above Lake Isabelle’s east end. Isabelle Glacier Trail This trail leaves the Pawnee Pass Trail at Lake Isabelle, 2.25 miles west of the Long Lake Trailhead. The trail goes around Lake Isabelle’s north side and continues west to an unnamed lake at 11,400 feet. The trail switchbacks up the slope on this lake’s north side to reach the east end of Isabelle Glacier. It is 4.25 miles from the Long Lake Trailhead to Isabelle Glacier. This trail is not marked on the 1978 Ward or 1978 Monarch Lake quadrangles. Glacier Rim Trail The north end of this trail is at the Rainbow Lakes Trailhead and the south end is at the Fourth of July Mine, 2.0 miles northwest of the Fourth of July Trailhead. From the Rainbow Lakes Trailhead, the Glacier Rim Trail climbs west up Caribou Ridge and reaches Arapaho Saddle after 6.0 miles. From the Fourth of July Mine, the Glacier Rim Trail switchbacks up the slope northeast of the mine to reach Arapaho Saddle. It is 1.5 miles from the Fourth of July Mine to Arapaho Saddle and 3.5 miles from the Fourth of July Trailhead to Arapaho Saddle. Arapaho Pass Trail (East) On the east side of the Continental Divide, this trail starts at the Fourth of July Trailhead. From the Fourth of July Trailhead, it climbs steadily northwest 3.0 miles to Arapaho Pass on the Continental Divide at 11,906 feet. Diamond Lake Trail The north end of this trail is on the Arapaho Pass Trail, 0.5 mile northwest of the Fourth of July Trailhead. The south end of this trail is on the Devils Thumb Trail, 0.7 mile east of Jasper Lake at

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS 10,750 feet. From the Arapaho Pass Trail, the Diamond Lake Trail descends, crossing the North Fork of Middle Boulder Creek then climbing south to Diamond Lake. It is 2.0 miles from the Arapaho Pass Trail to Diamond Lake and 2.5 miles from the Fourth of July Trailhead to Diamond Lake. The southern part of this trail is incorrectly marked on the 1958 East Portal Quadrangle. The map shows the trail contouring around Point 12,055 near 10,900 feet, when in reality it climbs to 11,500 feet as it crosses the east slope of Point 12,055. Portions of the trail in this area are faint.

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Devils Thumb Trail This trail starts at the Hessie Trailhead, climbs northwest 5.0 miles to Jasper Lake and continues west another mile to Devils Thumb Lake. The trail above Devils Thumb Lake is incorrectly marked on the 1958 East Portal Quadrangle. The map shows it climbing directly from the lake to Devils Thumb Pass, when in reality it climbs southwest from Devils Thumb Lake to reach the Continental Divide and the Corona Trail just south of Point 12,123. The Corona Trail then contours around the west side of Point 12,123 and descends north to Devils Thumb Pass. It is 7.0 miles from the Hessie Trailhead to the Continental Divide. Woodland Lake Trail This trail leaves the Devils Thumb Trail 2.2 miles west of the Hessie Trailhead and climbs west another 2.0 miles to Woodland Lake. The trail continues west from Woodland Lake another 0.5 mile to Skyscraper Reservoir at 11,221 feet. King Lake Trail This trail leaves the Devils Thumb Trail 1.1 miles west of the Hessie Trailhead and climbs west 4.2 miles to King Lake at 11,431 feet. King Lake is just below the Continental Divide 0.7 mile northwest of Rollins Pass. It is 6.0 miles from the Hessie Trailhead to Rollins Pass. Bob and Betty Lakes Trail This short but useful trail goes between the Corona Trail and Bob Lake. The south end of the trail is on the Corona Trail 0.4 mile northwest of Rollins Pass. The trail descends on the east side of the Continental Divide, passes King Lake and descends to 11,200 feet

HIKING TRAILS before climbing north to Betty Lake and, finally, Bob Lake at 11,600 feet.

Forest Lakes Trail This short trail leaves the South Boulder Creek Trail 1.0 mile southwest of the East Portal Trailhead and climbs north another 2.0 miles to Forest Lakes. The last 0.5 mile of the trail to the lakes is faint. South Boulder Creek Trail The east end of this trail is at the East Portal Trailhead, and the west end is at the Rogers Pass Trailhead on the Continental Divide. The trail climbs southwest up South Boulder Creek from the East Portal Trailhead and reaches Heart Lake after 4.0 miles. The trail then climbs steeply southwest another 0.5 mile to Rogers Pass at 11,860 feet. Ute Trail The east end of this trail is at the Upper Mammoth Gulch Trailhead and the west end is at the Rogers Pass Trailhead. It is 5.0 miles between these two trailheads. This Ute Trail should not be confused with another Ute Trail near Trail Ridge Road in Rocky Mountain National Park. From the Upper Mammoth Gulch Trailhead, the trail descends west 0.75 mile to a junction with the James Peak Lake Trail. The James Peak Lake Trail is a short spur trail that continues west another 0.25 mile to James Peak Lake. The Ute Trail heads north from the junction to Echo Lake. Echo Lake is 1.5 miles from the trailhead. From Echo Lake, the Ute Trail climbs north to James Peak’s long northeast ridge then follows that ridge southwest to the Continental Divide at 12,300 feet. The trail crosses the divide and descends north on the west side of the divide for the final mile to Rogers Pass. Saint Mary’s Glacier Trail The Saint Mary’s Glacier Trail starts on the west side of Fall River Road just north of the parking lots at the Saint Mary’s Glacier Trailhead. The trail climbs steeply north 0.4 mile to Saint Mary’s Lake. Saint Mary’s Glacier is 250 yards north of the lake. The area around Saint Mary’s Glacier contains a lot of private property, but public access to the glacier is allowed on the main trail.

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS

Trails West of the Divide

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Roaring Fork Trail This trail starts at the Roaring Fork Trailhead, climbs northeast up the Roaring Fork drainage and reaches upper Hell Canyon. From the trailhead, the trail climbs steeply to get into the Roaring Fork drainage, then climbs more sedately to a junction at 9,900 feet. This junction is 3.5 miles from the trailhead. A spur trail climbs north a mile from this junction to Watanga Lake. The main Roaring Fork Trail climbs steeply east a long mile from the 9,900 foot junction to the 11,200 foot pass between Hiamovi Mountain and Mount Irving Hale. From here the trail descends slightly as it continues northeast to Stone Lake in upper Hell Canyon. It is 6.6 miles from the trailhead to Stone Lake. It is easier to reach Stone Lake via this trail than via the Hell Canyon Trail. The Roaring Fork Trail is not marked on the 1958 Isolation Peak Quadrangle. Hell Canyon Trail This unmaintained trail starts at 8,640 feet on the Cascade Trail and climbs north into Hell Canyon. The Hell Canyon Trail leaves the Cascade Trail 2.3 miles east of the Monarch Lake Trailhead at a point 80 feet west of the bridge over Hell Creek. The junction is unmarked and the rough Hell Canyon Trail climbs abruptly. Measuring from the Cascade Trail, the Hell Canyon Trail reaches Long Lake after 2.0 miles, Crawford Lake after 2.5 miles and Stone Lake after 4.0 miles. It is easier to reach Stone Lake via the Roaring Fork Trail than via the Hell Canyon Trail. The Hell Canyon Trail is not marked on the 1978 Monarch Lake or 1958 Isolation Peak quadrangles. Gourd Lake Trail This trail starts at 9,560 feet on the Buchanan Pass Trail and climbs north to Gourd Lake. The Gourd Lake–Buchanan Pass trail junction is 5.5 miles east of the Monarch Lake Trailhead and 2.2 miles east of the Buchanan Pass–Cascade trail junction. The signed Gourd Lake–Buchanan Pass trail junction is 0.3 mile east of the point where the Buchanan Pass Trail crosses the creek from Gourd Lake. The Gourd Lake Trail switchbacks up the steep slope above

HIKING TRAILS the Buchanan Pass Trail and reaches Gourd Lake after 2.7 miles. It is 8.2 miles from the Monarch Lake Trailhead to Gourd Lake. The Gourd Lake Trail is not marked on the 1978 Monarch Lake or 1958 Isolation Peak quadrangles.

Buchanan Pass Trail (West) On the west side of the Continental Divide, this trail starts at 8,800 feet on the Cascade Trail. The Buchanan Pass–Cascade trail junction is 3.3 miles east of the Monarch Lake Trailhead. The Buchanan Pass Trail climbs northeast from this junction to 9,700 feet near the junction of Buchanan Creek and Thunderbolt Creek, then climbs steeply east to Buchanan Pass at 11,837 feet. It is 9.2 miles from the Monarch Lake Trailhead to Buchanan Pass. Cascade Trail This major trail starts at the Monarch Lake Trailhead and climbs east to Pawnee Pass. The trail goes around Monarch Lake’s north side, then climbs to the Buchanan Pass–Cascade trail junction at 8,800 feet. The Cascade Trail crosses Buchanan Creek and climbs southeast on Cascade Creek’s north side to the Cascade–Crater Lake trail junction at 10,120 feet. The Cascade Trail climbs east from this junction to Pawnee Lake at 10,860 feet, then switchbacks up the steep slope southeast of Pawnee Lake to Pawnee Pass on the Continental Divide at 12,541 feet. From the Monarch Lake Trailhead it is 3.3 miles to the Buchanan Pass–Cascade trail junction, 6.8 miles to the Cascade– Crater Lake trail junction, 8.4 miles to Pawnee Lake and 10.5 miles to Pawnee Pass. The Cascade Trail meets the Pawnee Pass Trail on Pawnee Pass. Crater Lake Trail This short but important trail starts at 10,120 feet on the Cascade Trail and goes 1.0 mile south to Mirror Lake and Crater Lake. It is 7.8 miles from the Monarch Lake Trailhead to Crater Lake. Arapaho Pass Trail (West) On the west side of the Continental Divide, this trail starts at the Monarch Lake Trailhead. From the trailhead, the trail goes around Monarch Lake’s south side, then climbs southeast on Arapaho Creek’s north side. The trail crosses the creek at 9,740 feet and

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS climbs to Caribou Lake at 11,147 feet. The trail switchbacks up the steep north-facing slope above Caribou Lake to Arapaho Pass on the Continental Divide at 11,906 feet. From the Monarch Lake Trailhead, it is 9.5 miles to Caribou Lake and 10.8 miles to Arapaho Pass.

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Caribou Pass Trail This trail starts at the Meadow Creek Trailhead and goes east to Caribou Pass and Arapaho Pass. From the trailhead, the Caribou Pass Trail climbs gently southeast on Meadow Creek’s north side to the Caribou Pass–Columbine Lake trail junction then climbs steeply east to Caribou Pass at 11,800 feet. Caribou Pass is between Satanta Peak and Mount Neva. From Caribou Pass the trail climbs south above the pass and contours southeast across the steep northeast face of Point 12,536 on Mount Neva’s north ridge to 12,100 feet above Arapaho Pass. The trail then descends east to Arapaho Pass on the Continental Divide at 11,906 feet. The trail is washed out in places on the traverse between Caribou Pass and Arapaho Pass and is not passable for horses. From the Meadow Creek Trailhead it is 1.8 miles to the Caribou Pass–Columbine Lake trail junction, 3.0 miles to Caribou Pass and 4.0 miles to Arapaho Pass. Columbine Lake Trail This short trail starts on the Caribou Pass Trail 1.8 miles east of the Meadow Creek Trailhead and goes southeast 1.0 mile to Columbine Lake at 11,060 feet. It is 2.8 miles from the trailhead to Columbine Lake. The last part of the trail to the lake can be faint as it crosses some wet meadows. Corona Trail The north end of this trail is at the Devils Thumb Park Trailhead and the south end is at the Rollins Pass Trailhead. From Rollins Pass at 11,671 feet, the Corona Trail goes north on the west side of the Continental Divide to Devils Thumb Pass at 11,747 feet, then descends west to the Devils Thumb Park Trailhead. The Corona Trail is 6.5 miles long, with a high point of 12,000 feet. Starting at Rollins Pass, this trail provides a nice downhill hike.

OGALALLA PEAK TO NAVAJO PEAK Part II

THE PEAKS The human race is

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Off to the spaces This world is a bore. So turn your faces Toward higher places— ’Or what’s a heaven for? —Eloise Roach

Thunderbolt Peak from the west.

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Saint Vrain Mountain

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OGALALLA PEAK TO NAVAJO PEAK Chapter 3

OGALALLA PEAK TO NAVAJO PEAK Required U.S.G.S. Quadrangles: Isolation Peak, Allenspark, Monarch Lake and Ward This chapter covers the peaks on or east of the Continental Divide from Ogalalla Peak to Navajo Peak. Four of the seven thirteeners in the Indian Peaks Wilderness are in this chapter. You can reach most of these peaks from the Mitchell Lake and Long Lake trailheads near Brainard Lake. These are the most accessible peaks in the Indian Peaks Wilderness and some of the most accessible peaks in the Front Range. If you are quick, you can be on the Continental Divide in two hours after leaving the metropolitan area! You can run up Mount Audubon after work! The Brainard Lake area is crowded in the summer, but most of the visitors are not headed for the summits of the peaks. Far fewer people climb the Indian Peaks than climb Longs Peak. The routes in this chapter are not crowded. There are many adventures waiting for you above tree line in the Indian Peaks!

Meadow Mountain

11,632 Feet

See Map 1 on page 20 Our journey south along the range begins on a gentle note. Meadow Mountain is a rounded summit that is the easternmost summit above tree line on the long ridge running east of Ogalalla Peak on the Continental Divide. Meadow Mountain is visible from the Peak to Peak Highway near Allenspark. Meadow Mountain provides a nice training hike for the higher peaks and has a great summit view. It is also a popular winter climb.

South Slopes I, Class 2 From Mount Saint Vrain Trailhead: 6.7 miles, 2,700 feet This is a hike for all seasons. Start at the Saint Vrain Mountain Trailhead and follow the Saint Vrain Mountain Trail west into the

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS Indian Peaks Wilderness. The trail climbs steadily and reaches the 11,220-foot saddle south of Meadow Mountain after 3.0 miles. Leave the trail and hike north up the rounded slope for 0.35 mile to the summit. The only Class 2 is on the talus near the summit, the rest of the hike is Class 1. From the summit you will have an expansive view of Wild Basin and it’s attendant peaks. Longs Peak dominates the view to the north.

Saint Vrain Mountain 22

12,162 Feet

See Map 1 on page 20 This rotund summit is 1.25 miles southwest of Meadow Mountain and 3.7 miles east of Elk Tooth. It forms the eastern high point of the long ridge running east from Ogalalla Peak on the Continental Divide. The view from Saint Vrain Mountain’s summit is stunning. Bring your camera.

East Slopes II, Class 1 From Saint Vrain Mountain Trailhead: 8.6 miles, 3,225 feet From Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead: 14.8 miles, 3,420 feet From Middle Saint Vrain Wilderness Boundary: 5.8 miles, 2,370 feet This is another hike for all seasons. Start at the Saint Vrain Mountain Trailhead and follow the Saint Vrain Mountain Trail west for 3.0 miles to the 11,220-foot saddle south of Meadow Mountain. Stay on the trail as it turns south, enters Rocky Mountain Park and climbs gently to the 11,340-foot saddle east of the rounded mass of upper Saint Vrain Mountain. You can also reach this saddle from the Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead via the start of the Buchanan Pass Trail and the southern part of the Saint Vrain Mountain Trail. From the 11,340-foot saddle, leave the trail, dodge some trees and hike west up the slope for 0.7 mile to the summit. From the summit, take some time to examine the higher peaks to the west. The Coney Lakes Cirque, Saint Vrain Glaciers and Wild Basin are all wide open for your inspection. Extra Credit From the 11,340-foot saddle east of Saint Vrain Mountain, you can also climb east for 0.3 mile to Point 11,479. The eastern hump is the highest. This short side trip off the trail gives you yet another view to savor.

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Elk Tooth and Ogalalla from the east. (September)

Elk Tooth

12,848 Feet

See Map 3 on page 26 This craggy peak is 0.7 mile east of the Continental Divide on the ridge that forms the southern boundary of Wild Basin. Elk Tooth’s north and south faces are steep and convoluted, especially the south face. Elk Tooth is fun to climb and is not as hard as it looks. Elk Tooth is connected to Ogalalla on the Continental Divide by an interesting ridge, and these two peaks are often climbed together. For a description of the connecting ridge see the East Ridge Route on Ogalalla.

East Ridge II, Class 3 From Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead: 18.0 miles, 4,100 feet From Middle Saint Vrain Wilderness Boundary: 9.0 miles, 3,050 feet This is the easiest route to Elk Tooth’s summit. You can approach the route from either Wild Basin or the Middle Saint Vrain drainage. The Wild Basin approach is longer and requires more elevation gain. The length of the approach from the Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead depends on how far you drive up the 4WD road in the lower part of the valley. From the valley, hike west up the Saint Vrain Glacier Trail to 10,800 feet, then climb northwest to the 12,100foot shoulder on Elk Tooth’s east ridge. In June your approach to

OGALALLA PEAK TO NAVAJO PEAK the ridge will be up a moderate snow slope that has been called the Snake by skiers. Later in the summer, when snow is long gone on this south-facing slope, climb up talus to the ridge. From the shoulder, climb west up the ridge to 12,600 feet where the ridge flattens out. Continue west on or near the ridge crest. You can avoid any difficulties by staying on the ridge’s north (right) side. The ridge opens onto a talus slope near the summit, and you can easily reach the summit from the northeast.

Ogalalla Peak

13,138 Feet

See Map 3 on page 26 This important peak is on the Continental Divide at the southwest corner of Wild Basin and at the northwest corner of the Middle Saint Vrain drainage. Ogalalla’s long east ridge, which includes Elk Tooth, separates Wild Basin from the Middle Saint Vrain drainage. A long ridge running west from Point 13,049 just south of Ogalalla separates Paradise Park from Hell Canyon and the Roaring Fork drainage. After Rocky Mountain National Park’s southern boundary was changed to follow the Paradise Park–Hell Canyon ridge line, Ogalalla became the southernmost thirteener in the park. Ogalalla is the highest summit on the Continental Divide for 5.0 miles to the north and 10.0 miles to the south. Ogalalla is a rugged, challenging and rewarding peak. All of the approaches to Ogalalla are long. Because of the peak’s remote position, it is not climbed very often. You can approach Ogalalla via Wild Basin, the Middle Saint Vrain drainage or Hell Canyon. The Middle Saint Vrain is the most used and shortest approach. Once you are on the Continental Divide, you can reach Ogalalla’s summit by hiking. The trick is getting up on the divide. Several routes are given to aid this process.

Southwest Slopes II, Class 2 From Roaring Fork Trailhead: 18.0 miles, 6,950 feet From Monarch Lake Trailhead via Hell Canyon Trail: 12.8 miles, 5,670 feet From Monarch Lake Trailhead via Gourd Lake Trail: 22.4 miles, 5,670 feet From the Roaring Fork Trailhead, this is the easiest route up Ogalalla from the west side of the divide. It is a long hike and is normally done with a high camp in upper Hell Canyon at either

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OGALALLA PEAK TO NAVAJO PEAK Stone Lake or Upper Lake. You can also reach the route from a camp at Gourd Lake. You can reach upper Hell Canyon via the Hell Canyon Trail or Roaring Fork Trail. The Roaring Fork Trail is the easiest and preferred approach. Approach Gourd Lake via the Cascade, Buchanan Pass and Gourd Lake trails. From Upper Lake in Hell Canyon, climb east up scree and talus to the 11,850-foot saddle between Cooper Peak and a long slope leading north up to the Continental Divide. You can reach this saddle from Gourd Lake by hiking north to Island Lake at 11,400 feet, then northwest up scree 0.4 mile to the saddle. This is a pristine and beautiful area. From the saddle north of Cooper Peak, climb north 0.6 mile up to the Continental Divide. This slope is steep at first, but gradually relents. Go over the summit of Point 12,945, alias “Ooh La La!”. There is a good view from this summit of Ogalalla and Elk Tooth. Ooh La La! Descend northwest from the summit of “Ooh La La!” on talus and climb north to Point 13,049. This stretch of the Continental Divide can look a bit imposing but with a little route-finding the difficulty is only Class 2. On the summit of Point 13,049, you enter Rocky Mountain National Park and, for a moment, you can stand suspended between the splendors of the Indian Peaks Wilderness and the park. Ogalalla’s summit is a gentle 0.4-mile stroll northeast, and it eagerly awaits you.

East Ridge II, Class 4 *Classic* From Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead: 19.4 miles, 5,330 feet From Middle Saint Vrain Wilderness Boundary: 10.4 miles, 4,280 feet This is the 0.7-mile-long connecting ridge between Ogalalla and Elk Tooth. Elk Tooth is a rugged peak east of Ogalalla. This route is a wonderful scramble which allows you to climb Elk Tooth and Ogalalla together. The ridge requires route-finding but is not as hard as it looks. Any Class 4 climbing encountered is minimal and short. You can approach the climb from either Wild Basin or the Middle Saint Vrain drainage. See Elk Tooth for those approaches. From Elk Tooth’s summit, descend northwest on talus and stay on the north side of the ridge. Bypass several towers as you approach the Elk Tooth–Ogalalla saddle. Take your time and don’t rush into anything difficult. With a little looking around, you can find surprise ledges to get around these towers.

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Ogalalla from the south. (August)

From the Elk Tooth–Ogalalla saddle, move to the south side of the ridge and climb west toward Ogalalla. The scrambling for several hundred feet above the saddle does not exceed Class 2. As you approach Ogalalla, the climbing becomes more difficult and a final, southeast-facing cliff guards Ogalalla’s summit. Stay on the south side of the ridge. Traverse southwest on ledges under the final cliff, then climb north up a gully to the summit (Class 4). An alternative finish is to climb the southeast (right) side of the final cliff (Class 4) and approach the summit from the east.

Ogalalla Express II, Class 3, Moderate Snow From Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead: 20.4 miles, 4,400 feet From Middle Saint Vrain Wilderness Boundary: 11.4 miles, 3,350 feet This is the easiest route up Ogalalla from the upper Middle Saint Vrain drainage. It is also a good descent route. It ascends a long, narrow scree slope on the south side of Ogalalla that reaches the Continental Divide 200 yards southwest of the summit. This slope has some moderate snow on it through July, but the snow is gone by August. This is not a very pleasant route once the snow on it has melted. From the Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead, hike up the Saint Vrain Glacier Trail to 10,900 feet. Continue west under Elk Tooth’s south face to the base of Ogalalla’s southeast face at 12,000 feet. This

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“Ooh La La!” from the north. (August)

point is between the northernmost Saint Vrain Glacier and Ogalalla. You can see the route to the west. The route ascends either of a pair of southeast-facing scree ramps right under the broken south face of Ogalalla. Seek out or avoid any snow as you see fit. The upper parts of the scree ramp run into some small cliffs below the divide, and some Class 3 scrambling and/or moderate snow climbing is required to reach the divide. The exact route through these minor cliffs is a matter of choice. There are several small couloirs running up through the final cliffs that retain snow longer than the lower part of the route. The route reaches the divide in the broad saddle between Point 13,049 and Ogalalla. Stroll 200 yards northeast to Ogalalla’s summit.

“Ooh La La!”

12,945 Feet

See Map 3 on page 26 This unnamed peak is on the Continental Divide 0.6 mile south of Ogalalla. “Ooh La La!” is at the west end of the Middle Saint Vrain drainage. It is a significant summit with a steep northeast face rising above the northernmost Saint Vrain Glacier. In fact, “Ooh La La!” directs the entire chorus of Saint Vrain Glaciers flowing below it.

C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS “Ooh La La!” is usually climbed together with Ogalalla and is ascended as part of Ogalalla’s Southwest Slopes Route. You can easily approach “Ooh La La!” from the southeast by hiking along the Continental Divide. There are some interesting mountaineering routes on the peak’s east side.

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Ooh La La Express II, Class 3, Steep Snow *Classic* From Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead: 20.4 miles, 4,210 feet From Middle Saint Vrain Wilderness Boundary: 11.4 miles, 3,160 feet This route ascends the northernmost and largest Saint Vrain Glacier, then a nifty, twisty couloir above it. This couloir reaches the Continental Divide in the saddle between “Ooh La La!” and Point 13,049. There is snow in this couloir year-round. Follow the approach for the Ogalalla Express Route on Ogalalla to 11,800 feet in the high basin between Ogalalla and “Ooh La La!” From here, climb southwest and ascend the large northern Saint Vrain Glacier. The angle of the glacier is moderate. The steep, express couloir is above the top of the glacier on the north side of the northeast face of “Ooh La La!” By August a large bergschrund (crevasse) forms between the couloir and the glacier. This bergschrund can prove to be a significant problem in late summer. The couloir turns south before it reaches the divide and, as the couloir is inset into the face, a helmet is recommended for this climb. There is not a serious cornice problem at the top of the couloir. Once you are on the divide, hike 250 yards southeast to the summit of “Ooh La La!”. Vrain Drain II, Class 3, Steep Snow From Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead: 20.2 miles, 4,210 feet From Middle Saint Vrain Wilderness Boundary: 11.2 miles, 3,160 feet This couloir rises above Saint Vrain Glacier just south of “Ooh La La!” It reaches the Continental Divide 0.3 mile south of the summit of “Ooh La La!” There is snow in this couloir year-round, but a gap begins to form near the top in August. Follow the approach for the Ogalalla Express Route on Ogalalla to 11,400 feet, then head southwest to the bottom of the glacier. This glacier is smaller and steeper than the northernmost Saint Vrain Glacier. It sweeps up to the obvious steep couloir above it. In August there is a bergschrund (crevasse) between the glacier and the couloir, but you can avoid it. This couloir is not inset into the

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Sawtooth from the southeast. (October)

face and is really just an upper arm of the glacier. Any cornice at the top of the couloir will be very blunted by August and you can easily bypass it on the rocks north of the couloir in any case. Once you are on the divide, stroll north 0.3 mile to the summit of “Ooh La La!”.

Sawtooth Mountain

12,304 Feet

See Map 4 on page 32 The distinct profile of this small peak has spawned curiosity for years. The highest point is 0.4 mile south of Buchanan Pass and 200 yards east of the Continental Divide. Sawtooth is at the west end of the Middle Saint Vrain drainage and at the east end of the Buchanan Creek drainage. You can see Sawtooth from many vantage points to the east, but not from the southeast as Audubon hides it. The distinctive sawtooth shape is formed by the combination of a rounded north slope and a steep south face. The routes on this peak are short but fun. The approach to Sawtooth is long. From either side of the divide, you use the Buchanan Pass Trail for at least part of the approach. When you start on the east side of the divide, you can use

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OGALALLA PEAK TO NAVAJO PEAK the Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead, the Beaver Creek Trailhead or the Mitchell Lake Trailhead. From the Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead, follow the Buchanan Pass Trail west 6.0 miles to Sawtooth’s northeast side. From the Beaver Creek Trailhead, follow the Beaver Creek Trail west 3.0 miles to the Buchanan Pass Trail and follow that trail west another 2.5 miles to Sawtooth’s northeast side. From the Mitchell Lake Trailhead, follow the Beaver Creek Trail north 6.0 miles to the Buchanan Pass Trail and follow that trail west for another 2.5 miles to Sawtooth’s northeast side. From the west side of the divide, start at the Monarch Lake Trailhead. Follow the Cascade Trail east 3.3 miles and continue east on the Buchanan Pass Trail another 5.9 miles to Buchanan Pass.

North Slopes II, Class 2 From Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead: 14.4 miles, 3,560 feet From Middle Saint Vrain Wilderness Boundary: 5.8 miles, 2,510 feet From Beaver Creek Trailhead: 13.4 miles, 3,110 feet From Mitchell Lake Trailhead: 19.4 miles, 4,890 feet From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 19.2 miles, 3,970 feet This long hike is the easiest route on Sawtooth. Follow one of the approaches described above and continue all the way to Buchanan Pass at 11,837 feet. From the pass, climb south and then southeast 0.4 mile to the summit. The final climb is an easy talus slope, with the highest point above the south face at the southeast end of a broad ridge. Extra Credit 1. From Buchanan Pass at 11,837 feet hike north for 0.5 mile to the rounded summit of Point 12,391. This ranked summit is on the Continental Divide and gives you expansive views of the northern Indian Peaks. 2. For even more credit and views, continue from Point 12,391 northwest then north along the divide for another 0.8 mile to Point 12,277, another ranked summit. The ridge between Point 12,391 and Point 12,277 requires a little minor Class 3 scrambling.

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East Ridge II, Class 3 From Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead: 12.4 miles, 3,560 feet From Middle Saint Vrain Wilderness Boundary: 3.8 miles, 2,510 feet From Beaver Creek Trailhead: 11.4 miles, 3,110 feet From Mitchell Lake Trailhead: 17.4 miles, 4,890 feet Sawtooth’s mile-long east ridge provides a fun scramble. This route is only slightly more difficult than a hike and makes a good alternative for someone looking for a little spice without a lot of commitment. Follow one of the approaches on the east side of the divide to 10,400 feet on the Buchanan Pass Trail. Leave the trail, hike east to the base of the ridge and ascend it. There is some minor Class 3 scrambling along the way, but you can avoid any real difficulties on the lower part of the ridge by staying on the ridge’s south side. At 12,000 feet, the ridge ends in an east-facing talus slope below the summit. It is easy to descend by the North Slopes Route and the Buchanan Pass Trail, thus completing a nice Tour de Sawtooth. South Face II, Class 5.0–5.6 From Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead: 12.8 miles, 3,560 feet From Middle Saint Vrain Wilderness Boundary: 4.2 miles, 2,510 feet From Beaver Creek Trailhead: 11.8 miles, 3,110 feet From Mitchell Lake Trailhead: 17.8 miles, 4,890 feet This face gives Sawtooth its distinctive shape. Approach from the east, leave the Buchanan Pass Trail at 10,400 feet and hike southwest then west 1.2 miles to the base of the face. The face provides a maximum of 600 vertical feet of climbing. The rock on this face is reported to be bad. A variety of routes can be done with the details left to the souls who want to find their own way.

“Coney Island”

11,580 Feet

See Map 4 on page 32 This small peak is notable for the exceptional views from its summit. Located 0.6 mile southeast of Sawtooth Mountain and 0.5 mile northwest of Coney Lake, “Coney Island” provides a perch above one of the Indian Peaks’ finest valleys. From the summit you can spy on Paiute’s dramatic north face from a safe distance. “Coney Island” is easy to climb but is seldom visited.

OGALALLA PEAK TO NAVAJO PEAK East Ridge I, Class 2 From Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead: 11.8 miles, 2,840 feet From Middle Saint Vrain Wilderness Boundary: 3.2 miles, 1,790 feet From Beaver Creek Trailhead: 10.8 miles, 2,390 feet From Mitchell Lake Trailhead: 16.8 miles, 4,170 feet The gentle east ridge of “Coney Island” provides a placid hike to a view-ridden summit. Follow one of the approaches on the east side of the divide described with Sawtooth Mountain to 10,200 feet on the Buchanan Pass Trail. This point is at the junction of the Buchanan Pass and Beaver Creek Trails. Leave the trail and hike 0.2 mile south to the unnamed creek that drains the basin between Sawtooth’s south face and the ridge connecting “Coney Island” with the Continental Divide. Cross the creek and continue south for another 0.2 mile to the rounded, lower east ridge of “Coney Island.” Follow this increasingly distinct ridge west for 1.0 mile as it curves up to the summit. From the top, take some time to soak in the views of the Coney Lakes basin, the north faces of Audubon and Paiute and Sawtooth’s south face.

“Algonquin”

12,574 Feet

See Map 4 on page 32 This peak is on the Continental Divide 1.25 miles south of Sawtooth Mountain and 1.0 mile north of Paiute Peak. The summit of “Algonquin” hovers near the junction of Heaven and Earth. Your pedestrian ascent from the east will be abruptly awarded with a sweeping vista of the Lone Eagle Cirque west of the Continental Divide. “Algonquin” is for lovers.

East Ridge II, Class 2 *Classic* From Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead: 14.2 miles, 4,030 feet From Middle Saint Vrain Wilderness Boundary: 6.0 miles, 2,980 feet From Beaver Creek Trailhead: 13.6 miles, 3,580 feet From Mitchell Lake Trailhead: 19.6 miles, 5,360 feet This hike can dramatically improve your outlook on life. Follow one of the approaches on the east side of the divide described with Sawtooth Mountain to 10,200 feet on the Buchanan Pass Trail. This point is at the junction of the Buchanan Pass and Beaver Creek Trails. Leave the trail and hike 1.3 miles southwest up the drainage

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“Algonquin” from the northeast. (September)

between Sawtooth’s south face and the ridge connecting “Coney Island” with the Continental Divide. Pass under the north face of “Coney Island” and hike to the 11,180-foot connecting saddle between “Coney Island” and the east ridge of “Algonquin”. If you want to climb “Coney Island” enroute, follow “Coney Island”’s East Ridge Route then descend the middle of “Coney Island”’s north face. A steep cliff on the west ridge of “Coney Island” blocks easy passage. From the 11,180-foot connecting saddle, climb 0.2 mile southwest up a steep slope then follow the rounded ridge 0.3 mile west to Point 12,155 on the Continental Divide. The view opens to the northwest but the best view to the southwest is still hidden by “Algonquin”’s upper slopes. Descend 0.25 mile southwest to a broad saddle, then amble 0.5 mile southwest up gentle grassy slopes to the summit. The view of the Lone Eagle cirque will certainly draw your undivided attention. From the safety of this summit you can also contemplate Paiute’s north face and the rugged ridge connecting “Algonquin” to Paiute. The summit of “Algonquin” stands between grass and rock, between an ambling ascent and a wild ridge, between love and strength. Your presence here can unite these diverse elements, which is a powerful and empowering feeling. “Algonquin” has a second summit 0.2 mile south of the 12,574foot summit that is 12,560+ feet. From the map alone it is possible

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Audubon from the east. (October)

that this second summit could be higher than the 12,574-foot summit. The author verified with a hand level that it is not. Appropriately, the 12,574-foot summit is the high point of “Algonquin”.

Mount Audubon

13,223 Feet

See Map 5 on page 38 This is the easiest Indian Peak over 13,000 feet. Audubon is 0.85 mile east of Paiute Peak and the Continental Divide. It is connected to Paiute by a ridge. The salient features of Audubon are its great mass and its extensive east slopes. You can easily see Audubon from many vantage points to the east and it dominates your view from Brainard Lake.

East Slopes I, Class 1 From Mitchell Lake Trailhead: 7.8 miles, 2,730 feet A trail reaches Audubon’s summit. From the north end of the parking lot at the Mitchell Lake Trailhead, follow the Beaver Creek Trail north 1.5 miles to the beginning of the Mount Audubon Trail. This pleasant trail winds up Audubon’s vast east slope and approaches the summit from the northeast. The top part of the trail consists of talus.

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OGALALLA PEAK TO NAVAJO PEAK Extra Credit You can also climb the 12,706-foot summit of “Mount Notabon,” which is 0.6 mile northeast of Audubon and a short distance above the trail.

Southeast Ridge I, Class 3 From Mitchell Lake Trailhead: 5.4 miles, 2,730 feet This short ridge forms the south edge of a small east-facing cirque 0.5 mile east of Audubon’s summit. You can see the cirque from Brainard Lake, but it does not show all its secrets from below. From the Mitchell Lake Trailhead, follow the Blue Lake Trail 1.0 mile to Mitchell Lake. Leave the trail on the lake’s south side and go around the west end of the lake. Hike 0.4 mile north into the bottom of the basin below the small east-facing cirque, then hike west up onto the crest of the southeast ridge. Follow the view-ridden ridge west to an exposed point where the ridge abruptly ends above a surprising notch. The introduction is over. Descend a devious, steep and exposed Class 3 pitch to get into the notch. Now climb the nifty Class 3 wall west of the notch to the open slopes above. The difficulties are over. Climb 0.6 mile northwest up a broad talus slope to the summit. Variations 1. The Autobon I, Class 3, Moderate Snow (Seasonal) This variation avoids the exposed descent into the notch and in early summer adds an easy snow climb. From the west end of Mitchell Lake, hike west for 0.5 mile. Turn north and climb a shallow south-facing couloir into the notch. Continue up the nifty Class 3 wall and on to the summit. 2. The Audubahn I, Class 3, Moderate Snow/Ice For even more fun, hike up into the basin below the small east-facing cirque. As you enjoy this special, seldom-visited place, you will see its shady secret to the south. Climb the inset north-facing couloir to the notch on the southeast ridge. This hidden alpine couloir holds good snow well into summer and can provide an ice challenge in August. From the notch, continue up the nifty Class 3 wall and on to the summit.

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South Face I, Class 3, Moderate Snow From Mitchell Lake Trailhead: 6.0 miles, 2,730 feet There are three shallow couloirs on Audubon’s south face. The westernmost is called Crooked Couloir and it provides the best snow. The other two are innocuous but remain available for aficionados of the obscure. The Crooked Couloir provides a nice climb when snow conditions are favorable, but because of the southern exposure, the snow melts out of this couloir by July. This route provides a speedy descent in June. From the Mitchell Lake Trailhead, follow the Blue Lake Trail 2.0 miles to Blue Lake at 11,300 feet. The south face of Audubon is directly above the north side of Blue Lake. Choose your couloir and ascend it directly to the summit. Northwest Face II, Class 2, Moderate Snow From Mitchell Lake Trailhead: 14.4 miles, 4,650 feet With descent of East Slopes: 10.9 miles, 3,690 feet Like the south face, Audubon’s northwest face has three shallow couloirs. Called the Coney Couloirs they all provide nice snow climbs in June, rising above the seldom-visited Coney Lakes. The approach to these couloirs is long, yet your reward will be a visit to one of the Indian Peak’s finest valleys and a unique approach to Audubon’s summit. Start at the Mitchell Lake Trailhead and follow the Beaver Creek Trail north for 1.5 miles to the start of the Mount Audubon Trail at 11,280 feet. Don’t take the Mount Audubon Trail but continue north on the Beaver Creek Trail for another 0.9 mile to 10,800 feet. Leave the trail when it switchbacks down to the east and contour northwest near tree line to Audubon’s broad northeast ridge. Go to a 10,980-foot saddle between the tiny Point 11,087 and Audubon’s vast slopes. Descend north down a couloir on moderate snow for 600 feet. This descent is the crux of the approach and is a good tune-up for the climb. Hike west up the valley for a mile to Coney Lake at 10,580 feet. Go around the south side of Coney Lake and continue southwest up the valley for a mile to Upper Coney Lake at 10,940 feet. The long approach is over, and you are in paradise with access to a unique view of Paiute’s rugged north face. The easternmost Coney Couloir is the easiest of the three, starting 0.3 mile below Upper Coney Lake and rising 1,400 feet to a point on Audubon’s northeast ridge just above the 12,580-foot

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The southeast face of Paiute seen from Brainard Lake. (October)

saddle between “Notabon” and Audubon. The steepness reaches 35 degrees. The central Coney Couloir starts above the southeast side of Upper Coney Lake and rises 1,800 feet in a sweet steep to a point very close to Audubon’s summit. The top of this couloir melts out early and you may have to scramble up some rocks at the top. The westernmost Coney Couloir is the steepest of the three, reaching 40 degrees. It starts above the south side of Upper Coney Lake and rises 1,800 feet to a point on Audubon’s west ridge 0.25 mile west of the summit. Choose your couloir and ascend it. Descend the East Slopes Route.

Paiute Peak

13,088 Feet

See Map 5 on page 38 This peak is on the Continental Divide 0.85 mile west of Mount Audubon. Paiute sits at the heads of four major drainages and is a very important summit geographically. You can see Paiute’s southeast face from Brainard Lake but this view does not reveal the peak’s complex nature. Paiute has steep, convoluted north and west faces, which are seldom seen or climbed. Paiute’s north face is one of the most serious obstacles to traversing right along the crest of the Continental Divide in the Front Range.

C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS Southeast Face I, Class 2 From Mitchell Lake Trailhead: 7.2 miles, 2,590 feet You can easily approach and climb Paiute from Brainard Lake. This is the easiest route on Paiute. From the Mitchell Lake Trailhead, follow the Blue Lake Trail 2.0 miles to Blue Lake at 11,300 feet. Paiute is 0.9 mile northwest of Blue Lake, and you can see the route from the lake. From Blue Lake, climb northwest to an unnamed lake at 11,833 feet and continue west another 0.25 mile. Turn north (right), ascend a narrow scree slope to Paiute’s south ridge at 12,800 feet and follow this ridge to the summit.

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Variation From the unnamed lake at 11,833 feet, climb directly up the southeast face to the summit. This face consists of broken ledges, which require some route-finding and Class 3 scrambling.

East Ridge II, Class 3 *Classic* From Mitchell Lake Trailhead: 9.2 miles, 3,800 feet With descent of Southeast Ridge: 8.2 miles, 3,200 feet Paiute and Audubon are often climbed together. From Audubon’s summit, hike west on talus down Audubon’s west ridge to the 12,600-foot saddle between Paiute and Audubon. From the saddle, continue west up Paiute’s east ridge. Stay on the south side of the ridge. Near the summit there are some slabs south of the ridge crest that require a little minor Class 3 scrambling. It is 0.85 mile from Audubon to Paiute.

Mount Toll

12,979 Feet

See Map 5 on page 38 Even without an Indian name, Mount Toll is one of the best Indian Peaks. Located on the Continental Divide 0.6 mile south of Paiute Peak and 0.9 mile north of Pawnee Pass, Toll has a striking northeast face that can be seen from Brainard Lake and many other locations to the east. This peak provides several good routes, including rock climbs, snow climbs and a walk-up. You can easily approach Mount Toll. For the routes on the peak’s north and east sides, start at the Mitchell Lake Trailhead and follow the Blue Lake Trail 2.0 miles to Blue Lake at 11,300 feet. Toll is 0.9 mile west of Blue Lake, and you can easily approach the

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Mount Toll from the east. (October)

peak’s north and east sides from here. For the South Slopes Route, start at the Long Lake Trailhead and follow the Pawnee Pass Trail 4.25 miles to Pawnee Pass.

South Slopes II, Class 2 From Long Lake Trailhead: 10.4 miles, 3,300 feet This is the easiest route to Mount Toll’s summit and is often used as a descent route. From Pawnee Pass, climb north to Pawnee Peak’s summit and descend on the north side of that peak to the broad Toll-Pawnee saddle at 12,550 feet. In June and July there is a snow slope on Pawnee’s north side, but it can be avoided. From the saddle, hike north up a talus slope for 0.25 mile to Toll’s summit. North Ridge II, Class 5.6 *Classic* From Mitchell Lake Trailhead: 6.6 miles, 2,480 feet This fine route follows the crest of the Continental Divide along one of its most challenging ridges. From Blue Lake, hike west 0.8 mile to the 12,400-foot saddle at the base of Toll’s north ridge. Climb directly up the ridge for three 5.6 pitches to a wide ledge halfway up the ridge. A difficult buttress blocks an easy ascent up the ridge above this ledge. Traverse southwest along the big ledge and finish the climb in Class 4 gullies on the west side of the peak.

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Mount Toll from the west. (October)

Variation A more difficult finish climbs up the east (left) side of the difficult buttress above the big ledge.

Northeast Face II, Class 5.6, Moderate Snow *Classic* From Mitchell Lake Trailhead: 6.2 miles, 2,480 feet You can see Toll’s northeast face from Brainard Lake. The face separates the northeast buttress (the right skyline from Brainard Lake) from the gentle southeast face. The northeast buttress is separated from the north ridge (not visible from Brainard Lake) by a tiny north face consisting mostly of a chimney system. There are two nearly horizontal ledges angling across the northeast face. One is low on the face and angles up to the north. The other is high on the face and crosses the entire face. These ledges remain snow covered through much of the summer.

OGALALLA PEAK TO NAVAJO PEAK From Blue Lake, hike west 0.7 mile to the base of the northeast face. Climb up to the south (left) end of the lower ledge and follow it north to a point 100 feet south of the northeast buttress. Climb up the chimney system above this point for two pitches to the upper ledge. The second pitch is Class 5.6. Continue above the upper ledge for two or three more interesting pitches, one of which is Class 5.6, and arrive abruptly on the summit.

Northeast Ramp II, Class 5.0–5.2, Steep Snow From Mitchell Lake Trailhead: 6.2 miles, 2,480 feet This is an excellent mountaineering route when snow conditions are good. Follow the Northeast Face Route to a point in the middle of the northeast face on the lower ledge. Leave the ledge and climb up a snow-covered ramp angling up to the east (left) across the face. The easiest route follows this ramp all the way across the face to join the Southeast Face Route at 12,600 feet. The ramp is snow covered through early July. Variations Many variations are possible on this route, as you can climb straight up from the ramp at several points. All of these variations make the climb more difficult. Early in the summer the climbing alternates between snow and rock.

East Chimney I, Class 4 From Mitchell Lake Trailhead: 6.2 miles, 2,480 feet This short climb provides a good introduction to the northeast face and avoids the difficulties in the center of the face. Follow the Northeast Face Route to the beginning of the lower ledge. Do not traverse north along this ledge. Climb up a broken chimney system above the beginning of the lower ledge for two Class 4 pitches and join the Southeast Face Route at 12,500 feet. Southeast Face I, Class 2, Moderate Snow *Classic* From Mitchell Lake Trailhead: 6.4 miles, 2,480 feet This is a wonderful snow climb, and in June you can climb on snow all the way from Blue Lake to Toll’s summit. There is a large snow slope west of Blue Lake that has an arm extending high onto Toll’s southeast face. This arm is just south of the cliffs of the northeast face. By August most of the snow is gone, but this general line

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still provides a good means of climbing from Blue Lake to the TollPawnee saddle. From Blue Lake, climb west and then southwest to overcome a steep section between 11,600 feet and 11,800 feet. In June and early July there is a moderate snow slope in this area. Continue west toward the south (left) edge of the steep northeast face. At 12,100 feet get onto the large east-facing snow slope south of the northeast face. The slope is steeper near its north edge and gentler toward the middle. The north side of the snow slope provides the longest snow climb, as it connects to an upper arm of the snow slope leading directly toward the summit. By July the snow in this upper arm ends a few hundred feet below the summit in a talus field. An easier, shorter snow climb heads up the center of the lower snow slope and reaches the Toll-Pawnee saddle.

Pawnee Peak

12,943 Feet

See Map 5 on page 38 The easiest Indian Peak on the divide, Pawnee Peak is located on the Continental Divide 0.4 mile north of Pawnee Pass.

South Slopes I, Class 2 From Long Lake Trailhead: 9.4 miles, 2,450 feet From the Long Lake Trailhead, follow the Pawnee Pass Trail 4.25 miles to Pawnee Pass, then head north up the gentle talus slope to the summit. The west side of this peak is steep and there is a commanding view from the summit. Pawnee is often climbed together with Toll. East Ridge I, Class 3 *Classic* From Long Lake Trailhead: 7.4 miles, 2,700 feet With descent of South Slopes: 8.4 miles, 2,570 feet For those secure on exposed scrambling, this route is a delight and allows you to bag two peaks. This ridge provides views of both cirques above Brainard Lake. Follow Little Pawnee Peak’s East Ridge Route to the summit of Little Pawnee Peak. Turn off your autopilot as the fun has just begun. Start the 0.7 mile traverse to Pawnee Peak by doing a tricky Class 3 descent west off Little Pawnee’s summit. Continue west and pass two gendarmes and a buttress on their north (right) sides.

OGALALLA PEAK TO NAVAJO PEAK The scrambling is often exposed and the route-finding challenging. Unexpected drops on the ridge force you to find a way to downclimb to the north, then traverse west when you can. After you safely pass the 12,660-foot buttress, the difficulties will be behind you. Continue west for 0.4 mile up talus to Pawnee’s summit.

Little Pawnee Peak

12,466 Feet

See Map 5 on page 38 Located 0.7 mile east of Pawnee Peak and the Continental Divide, this little summit lies on a ridge running east from Pawnee Peak toward Brainard Lake. Little Pawnee is 0.4 mile south of Blue Lake and 0.9 mile north of Lake Isabelle. Little Pawnee Peak has more mountaineering interest than Pawnee Peak.

East Ridge I, Class 3 From Long Lake Trailhead: 6.0 miles, 1,970 feet Little Pawnee can be climbed most easily by leaving the Pawnee Pass Trail near the west end of Long Lake and bushwhacking north to the ridge crest 1.0 mile east of the summit at 11,450 feet. Follow the broad ridge west and then northwest to the summit. The ridge narrows as you approach the summit and the exposure increases. Do a Class 3 scramble into and out of a small notch, then enjoy the Class 3 summit pitch. North Couloirs I, Class 3, Steep Snow From Mitchell Lake Trailhead: 5.0 miles, 1,970 feet Little Pawnee has some steep, early summer snow couloirs on its broken north face. You can easily approach them by following the Blue Lake Trail to 11,100 feet below Blue Lake. The most straightforward couloir reaches the east ridge at 12,000 feet, 0.4 mile east of the summit. Two steeper couloirs go into the notches just east and west of the summit. A Class 3 scramble will take you from either notch to the summit.

Shoshoni Peak

12,967 Feet

See Map 6 on page 48 This peak is on the Continental Divide 0.6 mile south of Pawnee Pass. Shoshoni is a peak of contrasts. It has a gentle north side and a

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Apache Peak

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The southwest couloirs of Shoshoni. ( June)

very steep south face. Its summit is not seen very well from most locations. The south face of the peak is composed of two huge rock buttresses separated by a deep gully. There are some classic rock routes to be done on these buttresses. Shoshoni is separated from Apache Peak to the south by a series of pinnacles known as the Chessmen. A traverse along the Continental Divide between these two peaks is not practical. A variety of practical climbs are suggested on this shy peak. .

North Slopes I, Class 2 From Long Lake Trailhead: 10.2 miles, 2,990 feet From the Long Lake Trailhead, follow the Pawnee Pass Trail 4.25 miles to Pawnee Pass. From Pawnee Pass, hike southwest across Point 12,878 and Point 12,860. Continue south for 0.5 mile across gentle slopes, then climb to the summit, which is a small tower south of the gentle slopes. North Couloir II, Class 2, Moderate Snow From Long Lake Trailhead: 13.0 miles, 3,510 feet With descent of North Slopes: 11.6 miles, 3,770 feet There is a moderate snow couloir on the north side of Point 12,860, which provides an interesting climb. The snow stays in this couloir through mid-July. You can approach it by following the Pawnee Pass Trail to 11,500 feet on the west side of the Continental Divide then

C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS contouring west to the base of the couloir. From the top of the couloir at 12,700 feet, hike southeast 0.5 mile to the summit.

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Southwest Couloirs II, Class 3–5.2, Steep Snow From Long Lake Trailhead: 8.8 miles, 2,470 feet With descent of North Slopes: 9.5 miles, 2,730 feet Shoshoni’s southwest face rises above Isabelle Glacier and contains three couloirs that radiate toward the summit. They provide early summer snow climbs. The easternmost couloir faces west and reaches a point in the rocks at the top of the south face buttresses. It melts out early in the summer. The central and westernmost couloirs face south and hold their snow better. The central couloir presents no obstacles and reaches the summit plateau 250 yards west of the summit. The westernmost couloir is a short distance farther west and is the steepest of the three couloirs. It is narrow and has a rock pitch at the bottom.

Apache Peak

13,441 Feet

See Map 6 on page 48 Apache Peak is the second highest Indian Peak and is the master of the entire Brainard Lake drainage. It is on the Continental Divide 1.5 miles southwest of Pawnee Pass and 0.4 mile northwest of Navajo Peak. A massive peak with large northwest, southwest and east faces, Apache is the culminating point of three great ridges. The peak is bound by Isabelle Glacier to the northeast and the Navajo Snowfield to the southeast. You can see Navajo Snowfield from Brainard Lake under the northeast side of cone-shaped Navajo Peak. Apache’s broad summit area belies the steep slopes below it. Apache’s summit overlooks Crater Lake Basin to the northwest and Wheeler Basin to the southwest. You can survey a lot of territory from this summit. In spite of Apache’s massive nature, the peak does not excite much rock climbing interest and most of its routes are snow climbs. The large northwest and southwest faces are steep, broken and uninteresting. Apache’s north ridge contains several large towers called the Chessmen, but I know of no ascents on them. Routes on the peak’s east and south sides are approached as follows. From the Long Lake Trailhead, follow the Isabelle Glacier Trail 2.25 miles to Lake Isabelle. Do not head up toward Pawnee Pass. Continue on the Isabelle Glacier Trail around the north side

OGALALLA PEAK TO NAVAJO PEAK of Lake Isabelle and, after another mile, reach an unnamed lake at 11,420 feet. In early summer the basin above this lake is full of snow. Leave the trail, continue west from the unnamed lake and climb a moderate snow/talus slope to some open terraces at 11,900 feet. From here, the Queens Way Route continues up to the northwest onto Isabelle Glacier. The Apache Couloir and East Ledges routes continue southwest up some terraces to the upper basin under Apache and Navajo at 12,200 feet.

Queens Way I, Class 2, Moderate Snow *Classic* From Long Lake Trailhead: 9.9 miles, 2,950 feet Queen Isabelle probably never climbed in the Indian Peaks Wilderness but, if she had, this would have been her route. The route ascends the northeast-facing couloir that extends from Isabelle Glacier toward Apache’s summit. You can see the couloir from Brainard Lake. In early summer after snow conditions stabilize, this is the easiest route up Apache. The snow in this couloir remains throughout the summer. Follow the approach described earlier and get up onto the large Isabelle Glacier at 12,200 feet. Swing up into the couloir and ascend it to 13,000 feet. The couloir is 100 feet wide and the angle reaches 35 degrees. Rockfall is not likely in this couloir, as it is not deeply inset into the face. The couloir ends at 13,000 feet and the talus slopes of the upper east face take you easily up to the summit. Apache Couloir II, Class 3, Steep Snow *Classic* From Long Lake Trailhead: 9.0 miles, 2,950 feet This is the east-facing couloir on Apache’s east face, north of Navajo Snowfield. It is steeper than the Queens Way. The Apache Couloir is a serious climb. Snow remains in the lower part of the couloir throughout the summer, but the upper part melts out. Crampons are useful after July 1. From the basin below Apache and Navajo at 12,200 feet, the obvious couloir is directly west. It gets steeper rapidly as you head up into it, and the angle reaches 45 degrees. The couloir becomes inset into the face for a few hundred feet and the feeling here is distinctly alpine. The couloir has an ignoble ending at 13,000 feet, and it is best to exit the couloir on its south (left) side. From the top of the couloir, climb west up talus and another optional snow slope to the broad summit slopes. Stroll north 200 yards to the summit.

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Apache from the east. (October)

East Ledges I, Class 3 From Long Lake Trailhead: 9.0 miles, 2,950 feet In late summer when the snow melts, this becomes the easiest route to Apache’s summit. The route is between Apache Couloir and Navajo Snowfield. There are only three spots of minimal Class 3 scrambling, and it is close to being a walk-up but it does require careful route-finding. If this route is climbed in June, it includes some easy and moderate snow slopes. From the basin below Apache and Navajo at 12,200 feet, head up toward Navajo Snowfield. This slope is steepening, easy snow in June and scree in August. Avoid the slabs directly under Navajo Snowfield by scrambling through a narrow Class 3 gap between the cliffs on the south side of Apache Couloir and the boilerplate slabs under Navajo Snowfield. This gap is on the north edge of the slopes leading up to Navajo Snowfield. Work up scree and ledges toward the north side of Navajo Snowfield and look sharp for ledges leading up to the north (right) toward Apache. Finding these ledges is the key to this route. Cross a barrier rock band with 10 feet of Class 3 scrambling and do an ascending traverse north on grass-covered ledges. There are a few painted blue bullets on the rock near the barrier rock band. You must cross a smaller rock band on the ascending traverse, but there

OGALALLA PEAK TO NAVAJO PEAK are several places where you can accomplish this with a few feet of Class 3 scrambling. The grass gives way to scree and then talus as the slope becomes gentler at 12,800 feet. Head west up talus to a broad shoulder south of the summit at 13,200 feet. Stroll 200 yards north to Apache’s summit.

South Ridge II, Class 3 From Long Lake Trailhead: 9.8 miles, 3,100 feet This route is normally used when traversing between Apache and Navajo. You can also ascend Navajo Snowfield and continue up the South Ridge of Apache to produce a nice mixed climb on Apache. The route starts in the notch between Apache and Navajo, which contains the comic pinnacle Dicker’s Peck. To reach this notch, either ascend Navajo Snowfield or descend the West Chimney Route on Navajo. See Navajo Peak for details on these routes. From the notch between Dicker’s Peck and Apache, climb 20 feet north up a broken face and get onto the ridge. The hardest moves of the route are right above the notch, but with a little routefinding the difficulty does not exceed Class 3. Once you are on the ridge, continue northwest on or near the ridge crest. There is some pleasant Class 3 scrambling here. Head north on talus and skirt the 13,300-foot false summit on its west side. Continue north 400 yards across easy slopes to the summit. Fair Glacier III, Class 3, Steep Snow/Ice *Classic* From Long Lake Trailhead: 20.5 miles, 7,790 feet From Long Lake Trailhead with descent of East Ledges: 14.75 miles, 5,360 feet From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 20.2 miles, 5,100 feet From Crater Lake: 4.6 miles, 3,140 feet This is the finest mountaineering route on Apache and one of the best climbs in the Indian Peaks. North-facing Fair Glacier is on Apache’s northwest face above the Crater Lake valley. The glacier rises 1,400 feet to Apache’s west ridge at 12,750 feet and is visible for long distances from vantage points to the north. An ascent of Fair Glacier involves significant logistical problems. If you climb the glacier from a camp at Crater Lake, then the problem becomes, how do you return to Crater Lake from the top of Apache? This is not easy to do. This problem is only compounded by attempting a one-day ascent from the west. If you do the climb

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Fair Glacier on Apache. (August)

in one day from the east, then the approach is very long, but it is easy to descend one of the east side routes and return to Brainard Lake. The best solution seems to be the one-day blitz from the east. Get in shape, leave early, hike over Pawnee Pass and continue on the trail to Crater Lake. Continue south from Crater Lake to Triangle Lake. Fair Glacier is 0.5 mile south of Triangle Lake and is obvious from there. Fair Glacier is very wide at the bottom but narrows to 100 yards halfway up. As summer progresses, a large crevasse forms at this halfway point and extends almost completely across the glacier. Through most of the summer you can bypass it on its east (left) end. In September it can be a serious obstacle. Above the crevasse, the angle is 45 degrees. The prospect of sliding down into

OGALALLA PEAK TO NAVAJO PEAK the crevasse is something to consider and avoid. By August some blue ice forms at the top of the glacier, but you can avoid it on the glacier’s west (right) edge. The snow continues all the way to Apache’s west ridge at 12,750 feet. There is usually no cornice. Once you are on the ridge, scramble east on the ridge’s south side to the large talus slope forming Apache’s upper south face (Class 3). Hike northeast up this talus slope 0.25 mile to the summit. Descend one of the east side routes. Variation From half height on Fair Glacier there is a steep couloir originating on the glacier’s west (right) side. This couloir reaches the ridge slightly west of Mount George’s summit and is really a route on Mount George. The couloir is steeper than Fair Glacier. A significant crevasse forms at the bottom of the couloir that can force you onto the rock to get around it. Extra Credit From the top of Fair Glacier, the inert summit of Mount George (12,876 feet) is 200 yards west. You can reach it with Class 3 scrambling on the ridge’s south side.

Dicker’s Peck

13,140 Feet

See Map 6 on page 48 This humorous pinnacle sits right on the Continental Divide in the notch between Apache and Navajo. It is visible for long distances, especially from the west side of the divide. It is not visible from Brainard Lake but swings into view as you approach Navajo Snowfield. The steep pinnacle is 65 feet high on its north side. An ascent of Dicker’s Peck makes a nice addition to an ascent of Navajo and/ or Apache. It is almost always climbed with at least one of those parental peaks. You can approach the pinnacle by ascending Navajo Snowfield, descending Apache’s South Ridge Route or descending Navajo’s West Chimney Route.

Dicking Around I, Class 5.5 *Classic* From Long Lake Trailhead: 9.0 miles, 2,640 feet This is the easiest and probably only route to the summit of Dicker’s Peck. It ascends the north and upper west faces of the

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A perfect August day on Dicker’s Peck.

pinnacle. One 75-foot pitch is required. From the bottom of the north face, climb 40 feet straight up steep, broken rock (Class 5.4). This effort gets you to a ledge. Follow the ledge around to the pinnacle’s west side (Class 4). From a comfortable stance on this ledge, you can see the rest of the route on the upper west face. Pull up off the ledge and climb a smooth 10-foot wall with a crack in it (Class 5.5). This is the hardest move of the route. Above this wall, a tiny summit overhang blocks direct passage to the summit. Step south (right) around a corner to a pair of solid footholds above a great void (Class 4). It is 2,500 vertical feet down into Wheeler Basin and the exposure here is sensational. Finish the route by ascending a final 10-foot, Class 5.2 wall to the top.

OGALALLA PEAK TO NAVAJO PEAK Variation Climb directly over the summit overhang on the pinnacle’s west side (Class 5.7). Descent This is not a good rock to be on top of without a rope. There are two old, fixed pitons on the summit for an anchor. Rappel 65 feet down the north face to the ground.

Navajo Peak

13,409 Feet

See Map 6 on page 48 This dramatic cone-shaped peak is the third highest in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. It is on the Continental Divide at the west end of Niwot Ridge, which separates the Brainard Lake drainage to the north from the city of Boulder watershed to the south. You can see Navajo from Brainard Lake and Lake Isabelle. The rock on the upper part of the peak is solid and the top of the peak is marked by a vertical, pink-colored band of solid rock. Navajo provides some surprisingly good routes. All of the routes on Navajo use the following approach. From the Long Lake Trailhead, follow the Pawnee Pass Trail 2.25 miles to Lake Isabelle. Do not head up toward Pawnee Pass. Continue west on the Isabelle Glacier Trail around the north side of Lake Isabelle and, after another mile, reach an unnamed lake at 11,420 feet. In early summer, the basin above this lake is full of snow and the fun begins. Leave the trail, continue west from the unnamed lake and climb a moderate snow/talus slope to some open terraces at 11,900 feet. Head southwest up these terraces to 12,200 feet in the upper basin under Apache and Navajo. You can see Navajo, Airplane Gully and Navajo Snowfield from here.

Airplane Gully I, Class 3 *Classic* From Long Lake Trailhead: 9.2 miles, 2,910 feet This is the standard route up Navajo and is justifiably popular. The scrambling is fun and there are expansive views in every direction. The top part of this route is in the city of Boulder watershed, but the city does not bother people climbing on it. Information on the Boulder watershed is in the introduction to chapter 6.

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Follow the approach to the basin below the peak at 12,200 feet. The north-facing Airplane Gully is south of this basin and reaches Niwot Ridge 0.25 mile east of Navajo. Wreckage of a large airplane resides near the top of this gully. The plane is difficult to spot from below, but pieces of wreckage are scattered for some distance down the gully. Airplane Gully is the only gully that goes through to Niwot Ridge without any cliffs in it. Ascend Airplane Gully to Niwot Ridge. The gully contains moderate snow in June and scree in August. The airplane is actually in a western branch of the gully near Niwot Ridge. It is reasonable to go straight up the main gully or up the branch gully past the airplane. It is shorter to go past the airplane. Once you are on Niwot Ridge, climb west up the peak’s broken southeast slopes. As you approach the pink-colored summit cliff, stay below it and continue climbing west to a platform at the summit cliff’s west edge. There is a great view of North Arapaho’s north face from this point. The broken ledges leading to this platform involve an occasional step of Class 3 scrambling. From the platform, scramble northeast on or near the ridge crest for 200 feet to the summit (Class 3). Variation Find and climb a 40-foot, south-facing Class 3 chimney through the east end of the pink-colored summit cliff. The summit is 30 feet west from the top of the chimney. This chimney is deeply inset into the summit cliff and you can easily see it from below. This popular variation penetrates the mysteries of the summit cliff and provides a direct route to the summit. Extra Credit From the top of Airplane Gully at 12,860 feet on Niwot Ridge, hike and scramble east for 0.4 mile to the 13,023-foot summit of Niwot Ridge. You will be rewarded with a unique and spectacular view. It is illegal to descend south from Niwot Ridge in to the City of Boulder watershed.

Navajo Snowfield and North Face II, Class 5.0–5.2, Steep Snow *Classic* From Long Lake Trailhead: 9.2 miles, 2,910 feet This is the best mixed climb in the Indian Peaks and has proven popular over the years. It ascends the prominent Navajo Snowfield to

OGALALLA PEAK TO NAVAJO PEAK

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Navajo Snowfield and north face of Navajo. ( June)

the notch between Navajo and Apache, then heads up the steep north face of Navajo. Navajo Snowfield is under Navajo’s northeast side and is blatantly obvious from the basin below the peak at 12,200 feet. Navajo Snowfield is a permanent snow slope of significant proportions, 200 yards wide and rising 800 vertical feet to the notch on the Continental Divide north of Navajo. This notch is also graced with a peculiar pinnacle named Dicker’s Peck. The snowfield is steeper on its south side, with the minimum steepness found on its north side. The angle in the center of the snowfield is 45 degrees. Choose your line and ascend the snowfield to the notch. In late August a 60-foot-deep crevasse forms on the upper, north side of the snowfield, but it is easy to walk around it. In August and September there is some ice on the south side of the snowfield. From the top of the snowfield, get into the notch between Dicker’s Peck and Navajo’s north face. There is an enormous boulder here with a gap under it that leans against Dicker’s Peck—maybe even holding the pinnacle up! Climb up Navajo’s north face past several ledges for 200 feet of moderate-angled Class 4–5.2. This easier climbing is blocked by a vertical step in the face. This step is not the pink-colored summit cliff. That is still 200 feet higher. The key to an easy ascent of this lower step is on its west (right) end. Climb west up a sloping ramp under the step to an improbable, exposed stance at its west end (Class

C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS 4). Ascend a steep 10-foot, Class 5.0–5.2 crack that is the route’s logical and physical crux and full of good holds to easier ground. The pink-colored summit cliff is now clearly visible. Scramble up under the west side of the summit cliff, then traverse south under it to a platform southwest of the summit (Class 3). This platform is on the Airplane Gully Route. Scramble northeast on or near the ridge crest 200 feet to the summit (Class 3).

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Variations 1. Ascend an obvious 30-foot, Class 5.7 crack directly up the center of the vertical step on the north face. 2. Climb up the 50-foot-high west face of the pink-colored summit cliff (Class 5.3–5.4). This rock is very solid and provides a wonderful direct finish to a fine climb. There are at least two ways of ascending this face.

West Chimney II, Class 4 From Long Lake Trailhead: 9.2 miles, 2,910 feet This chimney is the easiest way to ascend from the Navajo-Apache notch to Navajo’s summit. It is most often used when traversing between the two peaks. When combined with Navajo Snowfield, it provides an exciting route up Navajo. In June this chimney contains snow, allowing you to climb all the way up Navajo on snow. Follow the Navajo Snowfield and North Face Route to the notch between Dicker’s Peck and Navajo’s north face. Do not start up Navajo’s north face. Climb 100 feet southwest up a sloping ramp (Class 3) that leads around to the peak’s west side. This ramp starts at the level of the notch between Dicker’s Peck and Navajo. From a platform at the top of this ramp, you can see the West Chimney and the rest of Navajo’s complicated west side. The West Chimney is the northernmost gully on the west face and can be easily reached from the platform at the top of the sloping ramp. Climb 100 feet up the 6-foot wide chimney to easier ground. There is one Class 4 move just below a horn, and the rest of the chimney is steep Class 3 when it is dry. The chimney contains steep snow in June. Scramble up above the top of the chimney to the west face of the pink-colored summit cliff and the top part of the North Face Route. When descending the West Chimney Route, be sure to get into the northernmost chimney and not the next one south. It drops off lower down.

OGALALLA PEAK TO NAVAJO PEAK

Niwot Mountain

11,471 Feet

This rounded summit marks the eastern end of Niwot Ridge that extends east for 5.0 miles from Navajo Peak and provides gentle relief from the peaks on the Continental Divide. It also makes a nice winter ascent.

North Slopes I, Class 2 From Red Rock Lake: 4.6 miles, 1,370 feet From the parking area east of Red Rock Lake on the Brainard Lake Road, follow the dirt road 1.5 miles southwest to Lefthand Reservoir at 10,600 feet. From the south end of the reservoir dam, climb south for 0.8 mile to the summit. Enroute, there are many wind-blasted trees and bushes as you pass tree line.

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Lower Roaring Fork

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ROARING FORK AND HELL CANYON Chapter 4

ROARING FORK AND HELL CANYON 63 Required U.S.G.S. Quadrangles: Shadow Mountain, Isolation Peak, Strawberry Lake and Monarch Lake This chapter covers the eight peaks in the Roaring Fork and Hell Canyon drainages. These two valleys are on the west side of the Continental Divide in the northwest portion of the Indian Peaks Wilderness. The headwaters of these two valleys form the boundary between Rocky Mountain National Park and the Indian Peaks Wilderness. These valleys are approached from the Roaring Fork Trailhead and the Monarch Lake Trailhead. These small peaks are seldom climbed, and though they are generally easy to climb, there are many technical surprises tucked away on them. Good things come in small packages, and this area is a paradise of miniature adventures.

Mount Adams

12,121 Feet

See Map 8 on page 64 This large peak rests between Paradise Park and the Roaring Fork drainages. Mount Adams’ remote summit is 3.3 miles west of Ouzel Peak, which is on the Continental Divide. Mount Adams’ summit is in Rocky Mountain National Park, but the approach up the Roaring Fork is in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Some of the best days in the Front Range are to be found on lesser summits like Mount Adams. From this summit you can command a large area without many people in it. Mount Adams waits for you.

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Watanga Mountain

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ROARING FORK AND HELL CANYON South Slopes II, Class 2 From Roaring Fork Trailhead: 13.0 miles, 3,820 feet You can easily reach Mount Adams from the Roaring Fork Trailhead. Follow the Roaring Fork Trail 3.5 miles to a junction at 9,900 feet, then follow the trail north another mile to Watanga Lake. From Watanga Lake, hike north up Watanga Creek to the 11,400-foot saddle between Mount Adams and Point 11,721 (alias “Roaring Peak”). From this saddle, climb east then north 0.75 mile to the flat summit on Mount Adams. Variation From Watanga Lake, hike north then east to the 11,800-foot saddle between Mount Adams and Watanga Mountain. From this saddle, hike northwest 0.6 mile across gentle terrain to the summit. Combining this variation with the route described above makes a nice Tour de Adams. Extra Credit From the 11,400-foot saddle on the regular route, hike west up the short, steep east ridge of 11,721-foot “Roaring Peak.” Aw, go ahead and let out a roar on the summit!

Twin Peaks

11,957 Feet

See Map 8 on page 64 Twin Peaks are the westernmost high summits on the long, complicated ridge running west from Ogalalla Peak, which is on the Continental Divide. Unlike most of the other summits in this area, you can see Twin Peaks from vantage points to the west. Twin Peaks form the west side of the Roaring Fork drainage and are gentle on all sides except the east where a steep face rises above Watanga Lake. Twin Peaks provide a scenic hike and are easily approached from the Roaring Fork Trail.

Northeast Ridge II, Class 2 From Roaring Fork Trailhead: 12.6 miles, 3,660 feet This is the easiest route on Twin Peaks and allows you to sample the pleasures of the high country without a lot of commitment. From the Roaring Fork Trailhead, follow the Roaring Fork Trail 3.5 miles to a junction at 9,900 feet, then follow the trail north for another mile to Watanga Lake.

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS The highest summit of Twin Peaks is a mile west of Watanga Lake above a broken east face. Hike northwest from Watanga Lake 0.5 mile, then west 0.2 mile to the 11,340-foot saddle between 11,721-foot “Roaring Peak” and Twin Peaks. When approaching the saddle, stay north of the cliffs. From the saddle, hike southwest 0.7 mile across open country to the flat summit.

Watanga Mountain 66

12,375 Feet

See Map 8 on page 64 This cheerful summit is 2.5 miles west of Ogalalla Peak on a long ridge running west from the Continental Divide. Watanga separates Paradise Park from the Roaring Fork drainages. The slopes of Watanga are gentle except for a very steep north face lying hidden in the depths of Paradise Park. The view of the surrounding wilderness is striking from Watanga’s summit.

West Slopes II, Class 2 From Roaring Fork Trailhead: 12.0 miles, 4,075 feet This is the easiest route on Watanga and is a recommended hike to a remote summit. From the Roaring Fork Trailhead, follow the Roaring Fork Trail 3.5 miles to a junction at 9,900 feet, then follow the trail north another mile to Watanga Lake. From Watanga Lake, hike southeast 0.5 mile, then northeast a final mile to the summit. You can easily avoid any difficulties.

Hiamovi Mountain

12,395 Feet

See Map 9 on page 70 Hiamovi is the monarch of all the peaks west of the divide in the Roaring Fork–Hell Canyon area, and it dominates the ridge between these two valleys. Hiamovi’s summit is 0.25 mile south of the Rocky Mountain National Park boundary. There is a wonderful view of Paradise Park, the Roaring Fork peaks and Hell Canyon from Hiamovi’s summit. Hiamovi’s slopes are convoluted. The west side is gentle while the other faces are steeper and contain many sections of broken cliffs. There is an eloquent summit 0.4 mile east of Hiamovi known as “Hiamovi Tower,” which adds a great deal of stature to Hiamovi’s east side. You can easily approach Hiamovi’s secrets from the Roaring Fork Trail.

ROARING FORK AND HELL CANYON Southwest Slopes II, Class 2 From Roaring Fork Trailhead: 11.8 miles, 4,100 feet This is the easiest route up Hiamovi. It is also the logical route to use when making a one-day ascent of Hiamovi from the Roaring Fork Trailhead. Follow the Roaring Fork Trail 4.5 miles to the 11,200-foot saddle between Hiamovi and Mount Irving Hale. Leave the trail and hike northeast 1.4 miles up gentle slopes to the summit. South Face II, Class 3 From Roaring Fork Trailhead: 13.2 miles, 5,100 feet From Stone Lake: 2.4 miles, 1,950 feet This is the shortest route up Hiamovi from Stone Lake. From the Roaring Fork Trailhead, follow the Roaring Fork Trail 3.5 miles to a junction at 9,900 feet, then follow the trail west a steep mile to the 11,200-foot saddle between Hiamovi and Mount Irving Hale. Continue northeast on the trail another mile to a point 0.5 mile southwest of Stone Lake in upper Hell Canyon. This point is at 10,700 feet and is 5.5 miles from the Roaring Fork Trailhead. Hiamovi’s south side rises above the trail and consists of a series of broken cliffs. Leave the trail, climb north and dodge any serious cliffs. At 11,150 feet there is a beautiful lake west of the direct line up the peak, which is worth a detour. As you approach Hiamovi’s summit, there are two choices for easy ascent. For the easier climb, scramble up a talus-filled gully to the summit plateau 150 yards west of the summit. A more scenic and sporting route finishes on Hiamovi’s east ridge. Climb to 12,200 feet on the east ridge above a buttress and enjoy a nice Class 3 scramble on the upper part of the ridge.

“Hiamovi Tower”

12,220 Feet

See Map 9 on page 70 “Hiamovi Tower” is a racy minaret 0.4 mile east of Hiamovi Mountain’s summit. It is a significant summit that rises at least 280 vertical feet above the saddle connecting it to Hiamovi Mountain. The vertical rise on the east side of “Hiamovi Tower” is another story. The tower’s east face sweeps up 1,400 vertical feet above Stone Lake in a series of spectacular buttresses. The rock on “Hiamovi Tower” is good, and this peak provides some great

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Hiamovi Mountain and “Hiamovi Tower” from the southeast. ( July)

mountaineering routes, especially when it is climbed together with Hiamovi Mountain. Approach the tower via the Roaring Fork Trail.

West Ridge II, Class 3 From Roaring Fork Trailhead: 13.0 miles, 4,920 feet From Stone Lake: 2.2 miles, 1,775 feet This is the easiest route up “Hiamovi Tower” and is the logical route to use when climbing the tower and Hiamovi Mountain together. Follow Hiamovi Mountain’s South Face Route to 11,800 feet, then climb northeast to the 11,900-foot saddle between Hiamovi Mountain and “Hiamovi Tower.” Climb east 250 yards to the tower’s summit. Skirt an initial buttress on its south side. A higher buttress requires 50 feet of steep Class 3 climbing on its southwest side. Southeast Buttress III, Class 5.4 *Classic* From Roaring Fork Trailhead: 13.0 miles, 5,220 feet From Stone Lake: 2.2 miles, 1,775 feet This is the premier mountaineering route on “Hiamovi Tower” and one of the best climbs of its grade in the Indian Peaks. Eight roped pitches on good rock and the isolated position combine to produce a comprehensive experience. The route ascends directly

ROARING FORK AND HELL CANYON from Stone Lake to the summit up the Southeast Buttress. Three major steps form this buttress. Many variations are possible on this broken face, and the climb can be made harder or easier as you choose. The climb can be started or escaped on the two ledge systems that separate the buttresses. The easiest line directly up the three buttresses is described, then several important variations are given. Variations one and two make the climb easier. Variations three and four make the climb more difficult (Class 5.5–5.7) and even more direct. Follow the Roaring Fork Trail to a meadow 200 yards west of Stone Lake. You can see the route in profile when approaching this point from the south. Leave the trail, hike north and ascend a narrowing, south-facing talus gully that penetrates some of the lowest cliffs of the southeast buttress. You can see this gully from the trail, and it is the obvious weakness in the lower cliffs. Near the top of the gully, 40 feet of Class 4 climbing will get you past some chockstones. Above the chockstones, scramble up to the base of the first buttress and move north (right) 100 feet to the bottom of a major crack system that leads up the wall. The first buttress has some overhangs near its top. The route up the first buttress requires two pitches and ascends a long southeast-facing crack in some smooth slabs north (right) of the overhangs. You can see this crack from the trail. It is steep near the bottom, but lays back higher up and has some grass in it. The first pitch ascends the crack for 150 feet of steep, enjoyable climbing. There are two Class 5.4 cruxes on this pitch, and the rest of the pitch is Class 5.0–5.2. The second pitch continues up the crack on lower-angle rock and is mostly Class 4 with one Class 5.0–5.2 crux. The second buttress requires five moderate-length pitches and is clearly visible from the top of the first buttress. Study it before you scramble over to the base of it. The lower part of the buttress is very steep and has some white rock on a vertical wall. The upper part of the buttress has three sets of overhangs that make the whole project look improbable at first. Scramble across a broad bench to the base of the second buttress and move south (left) 100 feet under the vertical wall with the white rock in it. Find a smooth south-facing, north-angling ramp penetrating the lower cliff of the second buttress. This ramp is almost a dihedral and there is a clean, inviting crack between it and the steep wall above. The third pitch ascends the ramp for 110 feet of enjoyable Class 5.0–5.2 climbing. This ramp is much easier than it looks.

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Hiamovi Mountain

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ROARING FORK AND HELL CANYON The fourth pitch continues up the wall above the ramp for 100 feet of Class 4–5.2 climbing. The difficulty on this pitch depends on the exact line taken. This pitch ends on a large ledge system with several small trees on it. You are now above the steep lower wall of the second buttress, but still well below the upper overhangs. The fifth pitch continues directly up the steep wall above the large ledge via an obvious and delightful Class 5.4 crack. This pitch reaches a smaller ledge after 40 feet, traverses north (right) 15 feet and continues straight up the northernmost of two cracks for another 40 feet of Class 5.3 to a good belay. These cracks are right on the crest of the southeast buttress, and this is an absorbing pitch. From the top of this pitch, you can see the upper overhangs. The sixth pitch climbs 120 feet of Class 5.0–5.2 into an alcove between the two upper overhangs. The seventh pitch climbs 50 feet up a north-facing, chimney-crack system, which is 30 feet south (left) of a clean crack in the vertical wall at the west end of the alcove. You can now see the third buttress. The third buttress requires one pitch. There is an obvious crack near the center of the buttress with a small gully-chimney system north of it. Scramble west to the base of the buttress (Class 3) and head up into the chimney-gully system. The eighth pitch ascends this north-facing system 100 feet to the top of the buttress. The crux of this pitch is a V-slot 60 feet up. Overcome it with a few Class 5.3–5.4 moves. From the top of the third buttress, scramble west 150 feet to the summit (Class 3). “Hiamovi Tower” is yours! Descend via the west ridge. Variations 1. Avoid the difficulties of the first buttress by scrambling up grass ramps 100 yards south of the first pitch. 2. Both of the Class 5.3–5.4 cracks on the fifth pitch can be avoided. Hike south (left) 60 feet on the large ledge, then scramble up to a smaller ledge and traverse north (right) 100 feet on this ledge to a northeast-facing alcove (exposed Class 3). This traverse crosses the direct pitch. Climb southwest up the back wall of the alcove to the top of the fifth pitch (Class 4). This variation is devious but much easier than the Class 5.3–5.4 cracks. 3. You can make the seventh pitch more exciting by climbing 50 feet directly up the clean crack in the vertical wall at the west end of the alcove (Class 5.7). The first 15 feet of this crack are the most difficult.

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS 4. You can make the eighth pitch harder and much more aesthetic by climbing up the obvious crack 40 feet south of the chimney-gully system (Class 5.5). This very clean crack is 90 feet high and provides consistent, delightful Class 5.5 movement. Exit the crack to the north (right) to avoid the little overhang at the top. This is the most eloquent pitch on the southeast buttress.

Mount Irving Hale 72

11,754 Feet

See Map 9 on page 70 This small distinct peak is 2.0 miles southwest of Hiamovi Mountain on the ridge that separates the Roaring Fork from Hell Canyon. Irving Hale’s west side is gentle, but the east face is steep and beautiful. From the summit there is a commanding view of Hell Canyon and the west side of the Indian Peaks.

North Ridge II, Class 2 From Roaring Fork Trailhead: 11.0 miles, 3,460 feet This is the easiest route on Irving Hale and provides a nice day hike to a summit with a breathtaking view. From the Roaring Fork Trailhead, follow the Roaring Fork Trail 3.5 miles to a junction at 9,900 feet, then follow the trail west a steep mile to the 11,200-foot saddle between Hiamovi Mountain and Mount Irving Hale. This saddle is at tree line, and the views start to open up. From the saddle, leave the trail and hike south 0.7 mile across gentle country to the summit.

Cooper Peak

12,296 Feet

See Map 9 on page 70 This secluded peak is 0.6 mile southwest of the Continental Divide on a ridge that separates Hell Canyon from the Island Lake and Gourd Lake drainages. Cooper is neither high nor well known, but it epitomizes the joys of the lesser summits. Cooper provides lots of little adventures in a beautiful and remote setting. Approach Cooper from either Hell Canyon or Gourd Lake, as good trails lead into both valleys. To reach Stone Lake in upper Hell Canyon, start at the Roaring Fork Trailhead and follow the Roaring Fork Trail 6.0 miles to Stone Lake. This is the shorter and easier approach.

ROARING FORK AND HELL CANYON To reach Gourd Lake, start at the Monarch Lake Trailhead and follow the Cascade Trail 3.3 miles to its junction with the Buchanan Pass Trail. Follow the Buchanan Pass Trail another 2.2 miles to its junction with the Gourd Lake Trail, then follow the Gourd Lake Trail 2.7 miles to Gourd Lake.

Southwest Ridge II, Class 2 From Roaring Fork Trailhead: 14.0 miles, 5,300 feet From Stone Lake: 2.0 miles, 1,660 feet From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 19.4 miles, 3,960 feet From Gourd Lake: 3.0 miles, 1,480 feet This ridge is the easiest route up Cooper and is used when climbing Cooper and Marten together. The ridge starts at the 11,600foot saddle between Cooper and Marten. This saddle can be reached from either the east or the west. From Stone Lake on the west side, climb directly southeast up a small scree couloir or broken ledges near it to the saddle. It is easier but longer to reach the saddle from Gourd Lake. From Gourd Lake, hike northwest 0.4 mile to a small saddle at 11,300 feet. This saddle separates the Gourd Lake drainage from the Island Lake drainage. They are not the same. Descend northwest to some beautiful unnamed lakes and then ascend grass and scree to the saddle. From the saddle, climb northeast on the ridge’s east side. Scramble up a 100-foot-long mini-couloir (Class 2+) to pass the only difficulty on this ridge. At 12,000 feet, the ridge opens onto the broad upper slopes. Hike 300 yards northeast to the summit. North Ridge II, Class 3 From Roaring Fork Trailhead: 14.0 miles, 5,300 feet From Stone Lake: 2.0 miles, 1,660 feet From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 20.4 miles, 3,960 feet From Gourd Lake: 4.0 miles, 1,480 feet This ridge provides an interesting scramble. The ridge starts at the 11,850-foot saddle between Cooper and the Continental Divide. You can reach this saddle from either the east or the west. From Stone Lake, hike north to Upper Lake, then east up grass and scree to the saddle. From Gourd Lake, hike north a scenic mile to Island Lake, which is not named on the 1958 Isolation Peak Quadrangle. Hike around the west side of Island Lake and continue northwest

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Cooper from the north. (August)

another 0.4 mile up steep scree to the saddle. When the saddle is approached from the Island Lake side, the north ridge looks improbable, but it is not as difficult as it looks. From the saddle, climb south up the ridge and dodge any real difficulties. Some minor Class 3 scrambling is required. As you approach the summit, bypass some gendarmes on the west.

North Couloir II, Class 3, Steep Snow From Roaring Fork Trailhead: 14.0 miles, 5,300 feet From Stone Lake: 2.0 miles, 1,660 feet From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 20.4 miles, 3,960 feet From Gourd Lake: 4.0 miles, 1,480 feet This couloir provides a short technical challenge in a wilderness setting. This couloir is on Cooper’s north side, 100 yards east of the north ridge. Although snow remains in this deeply shaded couloir through August, it is in the best condition in July.

ROARING FORK AND HELL CANYON Follow either of the approaches for the North Ridge Route. If approaching from Stone Lake, descend 150 feet on the east side of the ridge from the 11,850-foot saddle, then scramble south to the base of the couloir. If approaching from Gourd Lake, do not go all the way to the saddle. Just hike up to the start of the couloir at 11,800 feet. The narrow couloir provides 500 vertical feet of steep snow excitement and deposits you 100 yards northwest of the summit.

East Face II, Class 3 From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 19.6 miles, 3,960 feet From Gourd Lake: 3.2 miles, 1,480 feet Cooper’s broken east face provides a direct route from Island Lake to the summit. A couloir rises above the island in Island Lake to

Cooper from the south. (August)

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS Cooper’s south shoulder at 12,100 feet. The best Class 3 scrambling is just north of this couloir. You can find harder routes farther north and an easier route on the couloir’s south side. Once you are on the south shoulder, hike 250 yards north across talus to the summit.

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South Buttress II, Class 4 From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 18.8 miles, 3,960 feet From Gourd Lake: 2.4 miles, 1,480 feet Cooper has a beautiful south buttress rising above some small unnamed lakes halfway between Gourd Lake and Island Lake. This buttress provides a wonderful two- or three-pitch climb on good rock.

Marten Peak

12,041 Feet

See Map 9 on page 70 This nifty peak is 0.7 mile southwest of Cooper Peak on the ridge that separates Hell Canyon from the Gourd Lake drainage. Marten is lower than Cooper but has a craggy, distinctive summit. Peak baggers find Marten a refreshing little project. Cooper and Marten are usually climbed together. Refer to Cooper for the approaches to Stone Lake and Gourd Lake.

Northeast Ridge II, Class 3 *Classic* From Roaring Fork Trailhead: 13.8 miles, 5,040 feet From Stone Lake: 1.8 miles, 1,400 feet From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 19.2 miles, 3,700 feet From Gourd Lake: 2.8 miles, 1,220 feet This ridge is the easiest route on Marten and is used when climbing Cooper and Marten together. Refer to the Southwest Ridge Route on Cooper for directions to the 11,600-foot saddle between Cooper and Marten. From the saddle, hike southwest up the ridge. The summit tower is small but can look imposing as you approach it. Traverse below the summit tower on a wide ledge on the ridge’s east side. Traverse all the way around to a notch south of the summit. Scramble up 30 feet toward the summit (Class 3). Avoid the next steep 30 feet by executing an exposed Class 3 traverse around a corner to the east (right) and scramble up to the summit from the east.

ROARING FORK AND HELL CANYON West Couloir II, Class 3, Steep Snow From Roaring Fork Trailhead: 13.2 miles, 5,040 feet From Stone Lake: 1.2 miles, 1,400 feet This couloir on Marten’s west side reaches the northeast ridge 200 yards north of the summit. This couloir is in condition for snow climbing in June and part of July. The snow melts by August. When it is in good condition, this is a fun mountaineering route up Marten. This route must be approached from Stone Lake in upper Hell Canyon. From Stone Lake, hike south 0.4 mile to the bottom of the couloir at 11,200 feet. This broad couloir provides 600 vertical feet of snow climbing and reaches 45 degrees for 200 feet near the top where the couloir becomes inset into the face. The couloir reaches a small notch on the northeast ridge near a pinnacle with a peculiar stack of boulders on top of it. Follow the upper part of the Northeast Ridge Route to the summit. Southwest Ridge II, Class 3 From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 21.4 miles, 4,060 feet From Gourd Lake: 5.0 miles, 1,580 feet A casual glance at the map may convince you that this is the easiest route on Marten. It is not. It has a surprise finish. From Gourd Lake hike west for 0.7 mile, descending slightly to the Island Lake drainage. Cross the stream and climb northwest for another 0.8 mile to the gentle 11,060-foot saddle between Marten and Point 11,361 (alias “Martenette”). Climb northeast up the broad ridge for 0.9 mile toward Marten. Just as you think you are going to walk to the top, you reach a 12,020-foot false summit and should consider your future. A nasty notch with a pinnacle in it separates you from the summit tower. Do an exposed, devious descent on the east side of the ridge and traverse north below the pinnacle (Class 3). There are at least two ways to climb up to the summit tower. The easiest one climbs north across a slab and winds up to the large ledge east of the summit tower (Class 3). This is the traverse ledge used by the Northeast Ridge Route. Reaching this point is harder than climbing the summit tower. Climb the summit tower via the finish described with the Northeast Ridge Route (Class 3). Extra Credit From the 11,060-foot saddle, hike southwest for 0.4 mile to the gentle summit of Point 11,361 (alias “Martenette”). This ranked summit is one of the Indian Peaks’ little gems.

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Monarch Lake

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LONE E AGLE C IRQUE Chapter 5

LONE EAGLE CIRQUE Required U.S.G.S. Quadrangle: Monarch Lake This chapter covers the seven peaks in Lone Eagle Cirque. This north-facing cirque is on the west side of the Continental Divide between Cascade Creek and Arapaho Creek. It is the most magnificent cirque on the west side of the Continental Divide in the Indian Peaks. The formation of this cirque defies differential glaciation. You can approach it from either the Long Lake Trailhead or the Monarch Lake Trailhead. The centerpiece of this cirque is Lone Eagle Peak, home of one of this book’s best climbs. There are many other wonderful climbs on the peaks surrounding Lone Eagle. Several of these peaks are unnamed, but they are more dramatic than many of the named peaks in this book. Lone Eagle Cirque is the Glacier Gorge of the Indian Peaks. Rock, snow and ice—it’s all here.

Lone Eagle Cirque from the north. (October)

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Thunderbolt Peak

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LONE E AGLE C IRQUE

Thunderbolt Peak

11,938 Feet

See Map 11 on page 80 This peak is 2.0 miles west of Paiute Peak and the Continental Divide. It is at the west end of a long ridge running west from Paiute that separates Cascade Creek to the south and Buchanan Creek to the north. The slopes of Thunderbolt are rugged but straightforward, and this peak does not excite much mountaineering interest in the summer. A winter ascent definitely makes Thunderbolt more exciting.

South Slopes II, Class 2 From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 13.0 miles, 3,600 feet This is the easiest route on Thunderbolt. From the Monarch Lake Trailhead, follow the Cascade Trail east 5.5 miles to 9,700 feet. There are some flat meadows here. Leave the trail and climb north a steep mile to the summit. This slope is steep and rough at first, but relents slightly as you reach the upper basin. Stay to the west (left) side of the basin for the most direct route to the summit. Extra Credit “Blackfoot” is easily reached from Thunderbolt by hiking 0.9 mile southeast from Thunderbolt’s summit.

“Blackfoot”

12,113 Feet

See Map 11 on page 80 This unnamed summit is 1.25 miles west of Paiute Peak and 0.9 mile southeast of Thunderbolt Peak. It is the high point of the connecting ridge between Paiute and Thunderbolt. “Blackfoot” is a significant peak that rises at least 353 vertical feet from the saddle connecting it to Paiute. It has steep south-facing ramparts rising above the Cascade Trail, and the connecting ridge to Paiute is rugged. “Blackfoot” has more mountaineering interest than Thunderbolt, and from its summit there is a comprehensive view of Lone Eagle Cirque.

Southwest Slopes II, Class 2 From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 13.4 miles, 3,780 feet This is the easiest route to the summit of “Blackfoot.” Follow Thunderbolt Peak’s South Slopes Route to 10,200 feet, then head

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS northeast to the summit of “Blackfoot.” A broad gully provides easy going on the upper part of this slope.

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North Face Couloir II, Class 3, Steep Snow From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 17.2 miles, 3,780 feet With descent of Southwest Slopes: 15.3 miles, 3,780 feet This is the premier mountaineering route on the north sides of Thunderbolt and “Blackfoot.” It ascends a hidden but definitive couloir that reaches a notch near the summit of “Blackfoot.” This couloir is in the best condition in early July and melts out in August. From the Monarch Lake Trailhead, follow the Cascade Trail 3.3 miles to its junction with the Buchanan Pass Trail. Follow the Buchanan Pass Trail another 3.0 miles to a bridge at 9,700 feet. Leave the Buchanan Pass Trail and hike south for 1.3 miles to an unnamed lake at 10,650 feet. From this lake, hike west 0.5 mile into the high basin under the north face of “Blackfoot.” You cannot see the couloir until you reach this high basin. There is a snowfield in this basin throughout the summer. The north-facing couloir heads up the peak’s steep face from the snowfield’s upper, east end. The couloir is inset into the face and provides 500 vertical feet of steep snow climbing. The couloir reaches a notch 100 yards northeast of the summit of “Blackfoot.” From this notch, a final Class 3 scramble southwest takes you to the summit. The easiest way to return to the Buchanan Pass Trail is to hike northwest 0.7 mile and descend the north ridge of Point 11,780. If this route is done as a day climb, then it is best to descend the Southwest Slopes Route and return on the Cascade Trail. This traverse provides a good Tour de “Blackfoot.” South Face II, Class 3 From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 15.8 miles, 3,780 feet This steep and interesting route leaves the Cascade Trail at 10,500 feet and climbs north through the cliff bands on the south side of “Blackfoot.” Scramble into the notch 100 yards northeast of the summit (Class 3) and enjoy the final Class 3 scramble southwest to the summit. Variation As you approach the summit cliffs, do an ascending traverse southwest (left) and reach the summit from the south (Class 3).

LONE E AGLE C IRQUE Extra Credit For a good tour, start from a camp at Pawnee Lake, ascend the South Face Route on “Blackfoot,” traverse to Thunderbolt, descend Thunderbolt’s South Slopes Route and follow the Cascade Trail back up to Pawnee Lake.

Lone Eagle Peak

11,940 Feet

See Map 12 on page 84 From Mirror Lake, Lone Eagle is the most astonishing peak in the Indian Peaks. Lone Eagle’s pinpoint summit defies imagination. It jolts the senses and appears apocryphal. Rationality returns when you view the peak from other vantage points. Lone Eagle is actually the end of a spectacular ridge descending north from the 12,799-foot summit of “Iroquois.” Lone Eagle is thrust out into the center of a large cirque, and its steep north face rises more than 1,000 vertical feet above Crater Lake. Lone Eagle Cirque is the most impressive cirque on the west side of the Continental Divide in the Indian Peaks. Lone Eagle Peak is almost completely surrounded by eight higher peaks, yet it dominates the entire area. The dichotomy of this unique summit is that it can only muster one closed contour line on the Monarch Lake Quadrangle. Lone Eagle is traditionally climbed from a camp at Crater Lake. You can reach Crater Lake by following the Cascade Trail from the Monarch Lake Trailhead and then taking the Crater Lake Trail south for the last mile. It is 7.8 miles from Monarch Lake to Crater Lake. Crater Lake can also be reached from the Long Lake Trailhead near Brainard Lake. Follow the Pawnee Pass Trail 4.25 miles to Pawnee Pass, descend to the west side of the divide on the Cascade Trail and go past Pawnee Lake to the Crater Lake Trail. This approach requires 9.25 miles of hiking and more elevation gain, but the drive from the metropolitan areas on the east side of the divide is much shorter, so you have a choice between more driving or more hiking! A viable alternative that makes the approach over Pawnee Pass more palatable is to climb Lone Eagle from a camp at Pawnee Lake rather than from the traditional camp at Crater Lake. A one-day ascent of Lone Eagle is possible, but this activity is reserved for the extremely fit.

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Lone Eagle Cirque

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LONE E AGLE C IRQUE Solo Flight II, Class 4 *Classic* From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 18.0 miles, 3,800 feet From Long Lake Trailhead: 20.3 miles, 6,490 feet From Crater Lake: 2.4 miles, 1,840 feet This obtuse route is the easiest way to reach Lone Eagle Peak’s exposed summit. The route climbs south under the peak’s east face, then turns 180 degrees and approaches the summit from the south. Interestingly enough, the final approach to the summit consists mostly of traversing and downclimbing. This circuitous but time-tested route provides a breathtaking climb in a spectacular setting. From Crater Lake’s northeast side, climb southeast to a point just below Lone Eagle’s north face. Continue climbing southeast and stay below the cliffs of Lone Eagle’s northeast face. The easiest going is actually right under the cliffs, and you may be treated to some wonderful flower displays at the base of the rocks. It is also reasonable to hike across talus some distance below the cliffs. Stay below the cliffs and continue south to a point where you can look down on Triangle Lake. It is 0.5 mile from the base of the north face to this point. It is not necessary to go to Triangle Lake, only to see it. Lone Eagle’s cliffs finally start to relent and the route ascends southwest up a ramp bordered on its north side by a dwindling cliff band. Look sharp for a good place to leave the ramp and climb northwest (right) up through this cliff band. There are at least three places to ascend this cliff band with 50 feet of Class 3 climbing. Some cairns mark the upper two places. Once you are above the dwindling cliff band, traverse north on a broad ramp. Here, you are finally headed toward the summit instead of away from it. After 200 yards of traversing, do an ascending traverse northwest up broken ledges to a pair of small notches in the convoluted ridge. This ascending traverse follows the path of least resistance and involves an occasional Class 3 move. The two notches are at the east end of a short east-west stretch in the otherwise north-south ridge. The view north from the north notch can be disheartening at first, but at least you can finally see the summit. It is 250 yards north and below you. The summit is not the highest point on the ridge, but it is the farthest north. Climb west through the southern notch and descend 20 feet on the west side of the ridge (Class 3). Turn north (right) and climb 30 feet into another notch with a curious chockstone in it (Class 3). This notch is on the east-west

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portion of the ridge. The short climb between these two notches is your only excursion onto the ridge’s west side. From here on the route is exposed and more serious. There is a steep gully descending north from the notch with the chockstone in it. Get on the gully’s west side, traverse north and descend slightly to a series of easy ledges 100 feet north of the notch (Class 3). There are at least two ways to accomplish this maneuver. These ledges are on the east side of the ridge running north toward the summit. Traverse north 100 yards on the ledges (Class 3). When the ledges bump into cliffs, descend 70 feet east down a south-angling Class 4 pitch to a lower series of ledges. This pitch is the crux of the route and can be downclimbed or rappelled. If desired, a rope can be left in place on this pitch to aid your return trip. Traverse north 200 feet on the lower series of ledges (Class 3) and engage the summit’s single closed contour. Ascend 60 feet northwest across the summit ridge’s east side to the summit (Class 4). The job isn’t complete until you tiptoe north 30 feet on the narrow ridge to the most spectacular point. This is a complicated route, but take heart. It follows the path of least resistance, consists mostly of easy Class 3 scrambling, is festooned with cairns and, most important of all, leads to an incredible summit.

North Face III, Class 5.7 *Classic* From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 16.6 miles, 3,600 feet With descent of Solo Flight: 17.3 miles, 3,700 feet From Crater Lake: 1.0 mile, 1,640 feet With descent of Solo Flight: 1.7 miles, 1,740 feet This is the time-tested and classic Stettner Route on Lone Eagle’s north face. It is a serious rock climb in a remote setting and you should approach it with the proper skills polished and ready. If you don’t know what the proper skills are, then stay away from this route. For those competent at the Class 5.7 level, this is indeed a Colorado Classic. It is easy to get off-route on this complicated face and many parties do just that. You should study the face carefully before launching. It is split into a lower wall capped by some summit cliffs. The lower wall and the summit cliffs are separated by a large bench. The large lower wall has tempting, easy sections interspersed with very difficult climbing. The bottom of the lower wall is marked with a long southeast-angling, tree-covered ramp, which is one of

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Lone Eagle from Mirror Lake. ( July)

the keys to the route. You can easily see the ramp from Mirror Lake, but it is partly obscured from Crater Lake. You cannot easily see the large bench between the lower wall and the summit cliffs from Mirror Lake, but it begins to show from Crater Lake. It is prominent from vantage points south of Crater Lake. The route on the summit cliffs is easier to find, but the summit cliffs contain the crux pitch. The climb requires nine or ten roped pitches plus some scrambling. From Crater Lake’s northeast side, hike 200 yards southeast up a scree and grass slope to the highest point directly under the north face. Aim between two large pine trees higher up and climb up a black Class 4 gully to the lower end of a southeast-angling, tree-covered ramp. Follow the ramp southeast (left) for two or three Class 5.0–5.2 pitches.

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A large gully system intersects the ramp. This gully system is the key to the lower wall but is hidden in views from both Mirror Lake and Crater Lake. Ascend the gully system for four pitches to the bench between the lower wall and the summit cliffs. The first pitch in the gully system is Class 5.0–5.2 and ends at the base of a prominent, intimidating chimney. The next pitch ascends this 100foot, Class 5.5 chimney to some grassy ledges. There are lots of face holds on the sides of the chimney. Above the chimney, scramble up a Class 3 pitch to the base of a short wall. Climb 75 feet up the center of this Class 5.4 wall to the large bench at the top of the lower wall. Once you are on the bench, scramble around to the peak’s west side. Scramble as high as possible on a lower-angle, west-facing rib below the steep summit cliffs (Class 4). The 150-foot, Class 5.7 crux pitch ascends two nearly vertical, parallel cracks on the steep west-facing wall above the rib. There are four fixed pins on this pitch. The crux pitch must be done to penetrate the summit cliffs. There is no other way around it. The crux pitch ends at another large bench extending around to the summit’s east side. Traverse 100 feet east (left) on this ledge (Class 3). Climb 140 feet up a prominent Class 5.3 chimney. Finish the climb with a short Class 5.3 pitch up a crack on the summit block’s northeast side. Lone Eagle’s exposed summit seems welcome after this climb! Descend the Solo Flight Route. Variations 1. From the start of the southeast-angling, tree-covered ramp, do not go up the ramp, but climb straight up the wall for two Class 5.4 pitches. The top of the second pitch is on a horizontal tree-covered ledge. Traverse east (left) on this ledge and get into the bottom of the gully system. 2. You can avoid the entire lower wall. Scramble up grasscovered ledges on the lower part of the west face and climb one Class 5.3–5.4 pitch to the bottom of a lower-angle slope leading easily up the bench below the Class 5.7 crux pitch. 3. The Class 5.3–5.4 pitch of Variation 2 can be avoided by scrambling 300 yards south under the west face, then traversing back north (left) to the crux Class 5.7 pitch. This variation can be used to escape the climb from the bench below the crux pitch.

LONE E AGLE C IRQUE

“Cherokee”

12,130 Feet

See Map 12 on page 84 This unnamed summit is 0.9 mile northwest of Lone Eagle Peak and 0.7 mile northeast of Mount Achonee. It is connected to Mount Achonee by a jagged ridge and forms the steep mountain wall northwest of Crater Lake. “Cherokee” is a significant summit that rises at least 330 vertical feet above the saddle connecting it to Achonee. You can easily see the north side of “Cherokee” from the Cascade Trail near 10,000 feet. The view from the summit of “Cherokee” is magnificent.

Southeast and Northeast Faces II, Class 3 *Classic* From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 17.0 miles, 3,790 feet From Crater Lake: 1.4 miles, 1,830 feet This is the easiest route up “Cherokee,” and it provides a scintillating tour. The lower part of the route is on the southeast face and is easily previewed from Lone Eagle Peak’s summit. The upper part of the route is on the northeast face and can be seen from the Cascade Trail between 9,600 feet and 10,500 feet. Refer to Lone Eagle Peak for directions to Crater Lake. From the old cabin on Crater Lake’s northwest side, climb northwest up the steep slope above the lake. This slope is ridden with boilerplate

“Cherokee” from the north. (October)

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slabs interspersed with grass alleyways. Scramble up the lower-angle slabs and avoid any steeper sections. Climb the southeast face to 11,000 feet and find a north-angling ramp leading to the 11,500-foot saddle between Point 11,602 and “Cherokee.” This saddle is the key to the route, as it allows passage from the lower southeast face to the upper northeast face. From Crater Lake, this saddle appears as a distinct U-shaped notch in the northeast ridge of “Cherokee.” From the saddle, do an ascending traverse west into the center of the small northeast face to avoid some cliffs. There is a small gully in the northeast face’s west side that appears to be the path of least resistance, but the rock in this gully is flaky and unpleasant. It is easier to climb the steep, broken Class 3 slope east (left) of this gully. Above the gully, climb a Class 2 talus slope up to the summit.

South Face II, Class 4 From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 17.6 miles, 3,790 feet From Crater Lake: 2.0 miles, 1,830 feet This route ascends the broad gully system in the center of the south face of “Cherokee.” Any snow in this south-facing gully rapidly melts out, and the upper part of the gully becomes a rubblefilled mess. On rare occasions when the upper gully is filled with stable snow, this route provides a good mountaineering experience. You cannot see the south face of “Cherokee” from Crater Lake. From Crater Lake’s southwest end, hike and scramble west 0.4 mile to a bench at 11,100 feet in the basin between “Cherokee” and Mount Achonee. You can see the route from here. The bottom part of the main, central gully consists of two horrible black holes capped with chockstones. This is not the way to start the climb! Fortunately, there is another gully 150 feet east. Unfortunately, this gully also has a black hole at the bottom of it, but not to worry— a broken section of rock is located 50 feet east (right) of the eastern gully. Climb a 120-foot, Class 4 pitch up the broken rock east of the eastern gully. This pitch is the crux of the route and once you are above it, the difficulty does not exceed Class 3 with careful routefinding. Ascend the eastern gully 200 feet, then traverse west (left) into the main, central gully. Either climb up the main gully or the broken Class 3 rock west of the gully. The main gully steepens near the top and the upper part is filled with rubble after the snow melts out. This is not a good place for a

LONE E AGLE C IRQUE large party. The gully reaches a saddle 150 feet west of the summit. The summit view offers some compensation for your ascent of this questionable route. Descend the Southeast and Northeast Faces Route.

Mount Achonee

12,649 Feet

See Map 12 on page 84 This remote peak is 1.0 mile west of Lone Eagle Peak, 0.7 mile southwest of “Cherokee” and 0.6 mile north of “Hopi.” With its steep north and east faces, Achonee forms part of the mountain wall above Crater Lake. The peak’s west side is gentle and rises above Arapaho Creek and the Arapaho Pass Trail. The impressive 12,060-foot “Achonee Tower” is 0.25 mile northeast of Mount Achonee. “Achonee Tower” has an 800-foot-high east face, and from Crater Lake you see it in front of Mount Achonee.

West Slopes II, Class 2 From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 12.0 miles, 4,310 feet This is the easiest route on Achonee and the best route to use for a one-day ascent. From the Monarch Lake Trailhead, follow the Arapaho Pass Trail 4.0 miles to 9,000 feet. Leave the trail and bushwhack east a mile to tree line. This is a steep and arduous bushwhack. If you leave the trail much higher, the bushwhack becomes very steep. From tree line, hike east a final mile up the gentle upper slopes to the summit. Northeast Face II, Class 4 *Classic* From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 18.0 miles, 4,310 feet From Crater Lake: 2.4 miles, 2,350 feet This is a fun and direct route up Achonee from Crater Lake. It flirts with the difficulties of the northeast face, but avoids them at the last second. You cannot see the upper part of this route from Crater Lake, as “Achonee Tower” blocks the view. Refer to Lone Eagle Peak for directions to Crater Lake. From Crater Lake’s southwest end, hike and scramble west for 0.4 mile to a bench at 11,100 feet in the basin between “Cherokee” and Mount Achonee. “Achonee Tower” begins to emerge as a separate summit, and the northeast face’s secrets unfold. Climb south between “Achonee Tower” and Achonee’s north ridge to 12,000 feet. As you approach the upper cliffs of the northeast

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The northest face of Achonee. (October)

face, turn west (right) and do an ascending traverse to the north to reach Achonee’s north ridge at 12,200 feet. This traverse is the route’s crux. With careful route-finding the difficulty does not exceed Class 4, but there is some exposure. Once you are on the north ridge, scramble south 0.2 mile to the summit. An ascent of this route combined with a descent of the Southeast Gully Route makes a nice Tour de Achonee. Variations 1. Achonee Arrow (Steep Snow) At 12,000 feet, do not traverse back north, but ascend a steep northeast-facing snow couloir on the west edge of the upper northeast face. This couloir holds snow through the summer and reaches Achonee’s north ridge 0.1 mile north of the summit. 2. Upper East Ridge (Class 5.0–5.4?) At 12,000 feet, do not traverse back north, but do an ascending traverse southeast to the upper part of Achonee’s east ridge. Climb west up this ridge to the summit. There are three or four pitches of 5.0–5.4 (?) climbing on the ridge. Extra Credit From 12,000 feet, climb northeast 200 yards to the summit of “Achonee Tower.”

LONE E AGLE C IRQUE Northeast Gully II, Class 3, Moderate Snow From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 18.8 miles, 4,310 feet From Crater Lake: 3.2 miles, 2,350 feet This is the easiest route up Achonee from Crater Lake. The route ascends an northeast-facing gully to Achonee’s south ridge. You can see this gully from Crater Lake, and it is significant because, other than the trail, it is the easiest route out of Crater Lake Cirque. Hike around the west side of Crater Lake and scramble southwest up a long, grassy ramp under the cliffs on the east side of “Achonee Tower.” Continue south into the upper basin between Achonee and “Hopi.” Climb southwest to the base of the gully at 12,000 feet and ascend it to Achonee’s south ridge at 12,480 feet. The gully has moderate snow in June and scree in August. Once on the ridge, hike 0.4 mile north to the summit.

“Hopi”

12,780 Feet

See Map 12 on page 84 This unnamed summit is 0.6 mile south of Mount Achonee and 0.6 mile west of “Iroquois.” It rises at least 480 vertical feet above its connecting saddle with “Iroquois” and is a significant summit. The north face of “Hopi” rises above Crater Lake. You can see the distinctive shape of “Hopi” from vantage points far to the north. “Hopi” has two summits of nearly equal height which are 120 yards apart. The western summit is lower and generic. The higher eastern summit is spectacular and exposed. You can see these twin summits from Crater Lake, but this view is badly foreshortened.

West Slopes II, Class 2 From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 13.2 miles, 4,440 feet This is the easiest route to the summit of “Hopi” and is the logical route to use when making a one-day ascent. Follow Achonee’s West Slopes Route to Achonee’s summit. Hike south 0.6 mile to the summit of “Hopi.” Descents 1. The easiest descent route is to retrace your steps and skirt west below Achonee’s summit.

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS 2. There is a direct Class 3 descent route from the summit of “Hopi” to the Arapaho Pass Trail. Descend south on easy grass slopes to Point 12,056, then drop straight south and get into a narrow avalanche gully. This gully is quite steep, but has no significant cliffs in it.

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Hopi Glacier II, Class 3, Moderate Snow *Classic* From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 18.4 miles, 4,440 feet From Crater Lake: 2.8 miles, 2,480 feet This is the premier mountaineering route on “Hopi.” Hopi Glacier is a permanent snowfield on the northwest side of “Hopi” and should not be confused with Peck Glacier on the northeast side of “Hopi.” Hopi Glacier angles up under the north face of “Hopi” and reaches the west ridge of “Hopi.” The upper part of the glacier can be seen from Crater Lake. The Hopi Glacier is neither shown nor named on the 1978 Monarch Lake Quadrangle. Refer to Lone Eagle Peak for directions to Crater Lake. From Crater Lake, follow Achonee’s Northeast Gully Route to 11,600 feet in the high basin between Achonee and “Hopi.” You can see both the Northeast Gully and Hopi Glacier from here. Head south 0.25 mile, get onto the narrow Hopi Glacier at a convenient place and angle up to the southwest on moderate snow. The upper part of the glacier is in a shallow couloir between Point 12,707 and “Hopi.” The angle reaches 40 degrees near the top. The upper 200 feet of the glacier melts in August, but a Class 3 scramble on the rocks west of the glacier makes a good substitute finish. Once you are on the ridge, hike 200 yards east to the lower, western summit of “Hopi.” Be sure to hike another 150 yards east to the higher, eastern summit and creep out to the very exposed highest point. From here you can peer back down on your route. To return to Crater Lake, descend Achonee’s Northeast Gully Route. East Face II, Class 3 From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 18.0–21.4 miles, 4,440 feet From Fourth of July Trailhead: 16.2–17.2 miles, 5,840–6,960 feet From lower Lost Tribe Lake: 1.8 miles, 1,560 feet This route is most likely to be used when climbing “Iroquois” and “Hopi” together, but it is a rewarding climb by itself. Follow the Southwest Face Route on “Iroquois” to 11,600 feet, then climb northwest 0.25 mile to 12,000 feet at the base of the east face. There is a phallic pinnacle on the ridge above known as the Dode.

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“Hopi” from the north. (October)

Only the Dode knows what goes on in this basin! You can also reach the east face of “Hopi” from the summit of “Iroquois.” Descend the Southwest Face Route of “Iroquois” to a point in the gully just above the lower cliff band. Leave the gully and traverse west on ledges into the basin between “Iroquois” and “Hopi.” Stay well south of the ridge crest and contour west at 12,000 feet toward “Hopi.” Finish the route by climbing the east face of “Hopi.” Scramble up some big boulders on the north (right) side of an ugly gully (Class 3) to a spectacular notch high on the east ridge of “Hopi.” Scramble up on or near the top part of this ridge to the remarkable eastern summit (Class 3).

Southeast Face II, Class 3 From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 18.2–21.6 miles, 4,440 feet From Fourth of July Trailhead: 16.4–17.4 miles, 5,840–6,960 feet From lower Lost Tribe Lake: 2.0 miles, 1,560 feet This is the easiest route from Lost Tribe Lakes to the summit of “Hopi.” Follow the Southwest Face Route on “Iroquois” to Lost Tribe Lakes. From the lakes, climb west up the basin under the south side of “Hopi.” Break through to the south ridge of “Hopi” at 11,900 feet (Class 3) and hike north up the grass slopes to the summit.

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“Iroquois”

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12,799 Feet

See Map 12 on page 84 This unnamed peak is 0.7 mile northwest of Apache Peak and 0.6 mile east of “Hopi.” It sits at the T-junction between Apache’s long west ridge and the ridge leading south from Lone Eagle Peak. It is a magnificent peak even though it rises a maximum of only 318 vertical feet from the saddle connecting it to Apache Peak. Mount George’s inert summit is between “Iroquois” and Apache. I have wondered for years why Mount George has a name and this summit does not. The best view in the Indian Peaks awaits you on the summit of “Iroquois.” If you have never been on top of this peak, make it your next outing.

Southwest Face II, Class 2+ *Classic* From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 18.2–21.6 miles, 4,460 feet From Fourth of July Trailhead: 16.4–17.4 miles, 5,860–6,980 feet From lower Lost Tribe Lake: 2.0 miles, 1,580 feet This is one of the most remote climbs in the Indian Peaks. If you are looking for solitude, this is it. Follow the Arapaho Pass Trail to 10,300 feet in Coyote Park on the west side of the Continental Divide. Leave the Arapaho Pass Trail and follow a rough trail 1.0 mile north to 10,500 feet in Wheeler Basin. Bushwhack north 0.6 mile to two unnamed lakes at 11,200 feet. The nickname “Lost Tribe Lakes” has been given to these lakes. This is the most pristine place in the Indian Peaks and is reserved for those willing to work for it. An alternate approach to these lakes is to bushwhack a steep mile northeast from 9,740 feet on the Arapaho Pass Trail. The challenge is met immediately on this route. This is a difficult bushwhack requiring a lot of effort and route-finding. No matter how you reach Lost Tribe Lakes, they are worth the effort. You can clearly see the southwest face of “Iroquois” northeast of Lost Tribe Lakes. Study it carefully. The route is only Class 3, but does require some route-finding. There is a large cliff band across the bottom of the face. Hike northeast from Lost Tribe Lakes to the base of the face and ascend a grassy Class 3 gully in the center of the face until you are just above the initial cliff band. This gully is surprisingly steep. Leave the gully and traverse east (right) on a good ledge to the lower end of a large talus field below the summit. You can escape

LONE E AGLE C IRQUE from the gully higher up, but any higher escape is more difficult. Ascend the talus field to the summit. The talus field is steep at first and requires an occasional Class 2+ move. The talus slope moderates as you approach the summit, but hold on to your hat. The summit appears abruptly and is incredibly exposed. Actually standing on the highest point requires a lot of nerve. Consider the probability of the entire summit block disappearing with you on it. The view will knock your socks off. Variation In early summer the gully on the east side of the face is snow filled and provides a reasonable alternate route to get past the initial cliff band. Climb high into the gully, then escape west (left) to the talus field. When the snow melts out of this gully, it is filled with loose rocks. Extra Credit Traverse from “Iroquois” to Mount George and on to Apache (Class 4). Use the top part of the above variation to reach the notch in the ridge south of “Iroquois.” Stay on the south side of the ridge and strike out for Mount George. This a long and arduous adventure.

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N AVAJO P EAK TO A RAPAHO P ASS Chapter 6

NAVAJO PEAK TO ARAPAHO PASS Required U.S.G.S. Quadrangles: Monarch Lake and Ward This chapter covers the peaks on or east of the Continental Divide from Navajo Peak to Arapaho Pass. This stretch of the divide contains the famous Arapaho Peaks and Arapaho Glacier. North Arapaho Peak is the highest peak in the Indian Peaks Wilderness and Arapaho Glacier is the largest glacier in the Front Range. This is an important area, but there is a catch. Looking at the wonders of the Arapaho Glacier Cirque is all that the public can do. The city of Boulder owns Arapaho Glacier and a large tract of land surrounding it. This land, which is supported by public taxes, has been closed to the public since 1904. For many years the city of Boulder sponsored an annual Arapaho Glacier hike every August, but that practice was abandoned in 1973. The facts of the Boulder watershed are as follows. The northern boundary of the watershed is a stair-step line along Niwot Ridge. The western boundary is a stair-step line along the Continental Divide between Navajo and South Arapaho peaks. The southern boundary is a stair-step line along Caribou Ridge east of South Arapaho Peak. Silver Lake, Island Lake, Goose Lake, Triple Lakes, Lake Albion and Green Lakes are contained in this area and form the heartland of the watershed. The Niwot Ridge Biosphere Reserve is another tract of land along Niwot Ridge that is closed to the public. This is federal land and the University of Colorado does research here. The biosphere reserve extends east from 12,400 feet on Niwot Ridge, and its western boundary is more than a mile east of Navajo Peak. The closure of the biosphere reserve is of little consequence to mountaineers, as there are no significant peaks on this land. There are, however, several significant peaks in or near the Boulder watershed. The summits of “Deshawa,” Arikaree, Kiowa and Albion are in the watershed. The route from Arapaho Saddle to South Arapaho Peak is in the watershed, as is much of the Arapaho Glacier Trail above Rainbow Lakes. The summit of South

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Arapaho is on the watershed boundary. The summits of Navajo and North Arapaho are just out of the watershed. The south ridge and most of the northeast ridge of North Arapaho are just out of the watershed. When hiking North Arapaho, South Arapaho and “Old Baldy,” it is extremely important to stay on established trails on the ridgeline. It is illegal to hike east from established trails on North Arapaho and South Arapaho and illegal to hike north from established trails on “Old Baldy.” The fine for being caught in the watershed is substantial, and judges who hear cases of trespassers will levy a fine every time. City of Boulder employees patrol the area. There are not many escape routes, and the patrols will run you down. A strange logic prevails here. After paying taxes to the city of Boulder for 45 years, I was unable to get coherent answers to simple questions about the watershed. There is no published statement about the city’s policy. The patrols will probably look the other way for ascents of the Airplane Gully Route on Navajo, the Arapaho Glacier Trail, the Southeast Ridge of South Arapaho and the South Ridge of North Arapaho. They will definitely come after you if you are spotted on Arikaree, Kiowa, Albion or the east side of “Deshawa.” Although this is the way it has been in the past, the situation can change at any time. The stair-step nature of the line only further complicates the issue. It is good to know exactly where the line is. The Indian Peaks Wilderness Area map shows the approximate location of the boundary lines. The new U.S. Forest Service quads, for sale at 2995 Baseline Road in Boulder, show the boundary.

Arikaree Peak

13,150 Feet

See Map 6 on page 48 This fine peak is on the Continental Divide 0.6 mile southeast of Navajo Peak. The north and east sides of the peak are in the city of Boulder watershed and are not open to the public. Information on the Boulder watershed is given in the beginning of this chapter. Arikaree is the focal point of the ongoing Byzantine battle between the city of Boulder and those who feel that mountains should not be locked up. If you climb from Wheeler Basin to the west, you can reach the 12,780-foot saddle 200 yards south of Arikaree’s summit without entering the watershed. However, the last 200 yards are in the watershed. While the city looks the other way for some popular tours that nick the corners of the stair-step watershed boundary, they do

N AVAJO P EAK TO A RAPAHO P ASS not like this one. One climber was accosted on Arikaree’s summit after an ascent from Wheeler Basin and recounted a tale of near assault by an overzealous patroler before executing an escape back into the sanctuary of the Indian Peaks Wilderness.

“Deshawa”

12,820 Feet

See Map 13 on page 98 “Deshawa” is the unnamed summit on the Continental Divide between Arikaree and North Arapaho. An effort was made to make the name Deshawa official but, it does not appear on the 1978 Monarch Lake Quadrangle. Information on the Boulder watershed is given in the beginning of this chapter.

West Slopes II, Class 2 From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 22.8 miles, 4,480 feet From Fourth of July Trailhead: 17.6 miles, 5,890 feet The summit of “Deshawa” and its eastern slopes are in the watershed. While the city looks the other way, you can climb “Deshawa” from Wheeler Basin to the west; it is a long haul. To do it, follow the Arapaho Pass Trail to 10,300 feet in Coyote Park on the west side of the Continental Divide. Leave the Arapaho Pass Trail and follow a rough trail 1.0 mile north into Wheeler Basin. Continue east another mile through Wheeler Basin’s fairyland. Swing south into the upper basin under North Arapaho’s north face. Climb to 12,000 feet then climb south up a long talus slope to the 12,600foot saddle between “Deshawa” and North Arapaho. Hike 200 yards northeast up talus to the summit of “Deshawa.”

North Arapaho Peak

13,502 Feet

See Map 13 on page 98 North Arapaho is the highest peak in the Indian Peaks Wilderness, the highest peak in Grand County and one of the finest peaks in the Front Range. It is also the highest peak on the Continental Divide between Berthoud Pass and the Wyoming border. The slightly higher summit of Chiefs Head Peak is 200 yards east of the divide. The east-facing cirque below North Arapaho and its neighbor South Arapaho holds the mighty Arapaho Glacier, which is the

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS largest glacier in the Front Range. The summit of North Arapaho also has the largest cairn in the Indian Peaks, which can be seen for many miles. The Arapaho Peaks and Arapaho Glacier are visible from Arapahoe Road in Boulder.

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South Ridge II, Class 3 *Classic* From Fourth of July Trailhead: 9.2 miles, 3,560 feet This well-traveled traverse ridge from South Arapaho is the easiest route to North Arapaho’s summit and one of the most popular Indian Peaks Classics. There are probably 10 times as many ascents of North Arapaho via this route than via all the other routes on the peak combined. This route is the likely descent route after an ascent via another route. The route has four short Class 3 cruxes. Follow South Arapaho’s Southeast Ridge Route to South Arapaho’s summit. From here there is a commanding view of Arapaho Glacier and the cirque below North Arapaho. It can feel quite alpine, especially with a few clouds swirling around. It is 0.6 mile along the ridge from South Arapaho to North Arapaho, with a net elevation gain of only 105 feet. This traverse can be exciting during a thunderstorm and there are no good escape routes. Remember to allow time for the return trip. To begin the traverse to North Arapaho, scramble northwest from South Arapaho’s summit and descend slightly. Pass by the top of Arapaho Glacier and climb a short Class 3 step. Continue scrambling on or near the ridge as it swings around to the north. The early going on this stretch of the ridge is straightforward. Continue north, staying on the ridge’s west side. The exposure off the ridge’s east side increases rapidly and dramatically in this stretch. There is a small gendarme on the ridge containing the second Class 3 crux. Scramble up to a small saddle on gendarme’s south side and climb directly up a smooth and solid 10-foot, Class 3 south face to the top of the gendarme. You can traverse below this gendarme on the ridge’s west side, but you need to drop some distance off the ridge to do this and it is not worth it. Unless there is lightning in the area, it is best to tackle the gendarme directly. There are some old painted arrows on the rock near here to aid your route-finding abilities. Once you are north of the crux gendarme, stay on or west of the ridge and pass below two more gendarmes. At points you may be as much as 100 feet below the ridge, but seldom more than that. The third Class 3 crux appears abruptly. Climb down a 30-foot, Class 3 face on the ridge’s west side to avoid a vertical step on the ridge.

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The west face of North Arapaho. ( June)

As you approach North Arapaho’s final summit massif, look for a gully descending southwest from the summit plateau. The final Class 3 challenge is ascending that gully. Scramble up to the ridge crest, and ascend the gully to a notch. Hike up on the ridge’s west side to reach the summit plateau. Hike 100 yards north to the highest point. North Arapaho is yours!

Northeast Ridge II, Class 4 From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 24.6 miles, 4,400 feet From Fourth of July Trailhead: 19.4 miles, 6,810 feet With descent of South Ridge: 14.3 miles, 5,160 feet This route follows the Continental Divide from “Deshawa” to North Arapaho. The route briefly intersects the stair-step boundary of the Boulder watershed. If the ridge is approached from Wheeler Basin to the west, this is a legal route on North Arapaho. The route begins on the summit of “Deshawa” and is in full view from there. It can appear a bit intimidating at first. The crux is a steep buttress halfway along the ridge. From the summit of “Deshawa,” descend southwest to the saddle between “Deshawa” and North Arapaho. Work southwest along the gradually steepening ridge 0.25 mile until the crux buttress is encountered. Climb the crux buttress via an exposed Class 4 pitch up a sloping ledge system on the ridge’s west side.

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The north face of North Arapaho. ( June)

Above the crux buttress, scramble up 100 yards on or near the ridge, then move to the ridge’s east side and ascend a long Class 3 ramp below the cliffs of the ridge. As the long ramp begins to die into the steep summit cliffs, work back up to the ridge crest at a likely looking notch. The last few hundred feet of the route require some route-finding. The route is on the ridge’s west side, which has now merged with the top part of the north face. The finish is fun, as it ducks over small notches and up-ramps. The monster summit cairn appears abruptly.

North Face II, Class 3, Moderate/Steep Snow From Monarch Lake Trailhead: 24.1 miles, 4,160 feet From Fourth of July Trailhead: 18.9 miles, 6,570 feet With descent of South Ridge: 13.8 miles, 4,920 feet This has to be the most obscure route in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. No matter how it is done, the approach is long and arduous. The face offers 1,700 vertical feet of moderate to steep terrain. When snow conditions are good, this face provides the longest snow climb in the Indian Peaks. The snow on this route is in good condition from early June through mid-July. The best view of this route is from the summits of Apache or Navajo peaks. A one-day ascent of this face from any trailhead would be a heroic feat. It is easier from a camp on the Arapaho Pass Trail.

N AVAJO P EAK TO A RAPAHO P ASS To approach this climb, follow the Arapaho Pass Trail to 10,300 feet in Coyote Park on the west side of the Continental Divide. Leave the Arapaho Pass Trail and follow a rough trail 1.0 mile north into Wheeler Basin. Continue east another mile through Wheeler Basin’s fairyland. Swing south into the upper basin to the base of the face at 11,800 feet. The face is composed of a complex series of snowfields and vague couloirs. Your exact route is a matter of choice. The most coherent choices that yield the longest snow climbs are a narrow couloir in the center of the face or a broad snow slope hugging the west edge of the face. Because of the west-trending nature of the snow slopes on this face, you are likely to end up on the west edge of the face above 12,600 feet. It is natural to reach a prominent notch on the northwest ridge at 13,200 feet. This notch is also at the top of the North Star couloir on the west face. From here, a series of short gullies leads up to the expansive summit.

North Star II, Class 3, Moderate Snow *Classic* From Fourth of July Trailhead: 7.8 miles, 4,360 feet With descent of South Ridge: 8.5 miles, 4,060 feet When it is in good condition, this is the premier mountaineering route on North Arapaho. It ascends a slender snow couloir on the peak’s west face and is one of the longest snow climbs in the Indian Peaks. While the approach to this route is long, it can be climbed in a long day from the Fourth of July Trailhead. North Star is not as long an undertaking as the North Face Route. This is definitely an early summer snow climb. By mid-July most of the snow melts out, and the couloir becomes a nasty scree gully. Depending on the vagaries of wind and snowfall, the upper 500 feet of the couloir can be scree in some years—even in June. It is wise to preview conditions on this route. The best place to do that is from the summit of Neva or Satanta. From Fourth of July Trailhead, follow the Arapaho Pass Trail 2.0 miles to the Fourth of July Mine. Leave the trail and climb north up a small basin 0.6 mile to the 11,900-foot pass between South Arapaho Peak and 12,300-foot “Quarter to 5 Peak.” Cross the pass and descend to 11,400 feet on the northwest side of the pass. In June there are several easy and moderate snow slopes near this pass. Contour north 0.5 mile, keeping a watchful eye on the sweeping west face of the Arapahos above you. The North Star couloir is

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on the west face of North Arapaho, 200 yards north of an eastwest line across North Arapaho’s summit. The narrow North Star couloir is difficult to spot from below. It is easier to find if you have previewed the route. You have gone too far north when you begin bumping into the south-facing cliffs of North Arapaho’s long northwest ridge leading to Point 12,839. Once you have located the couloir, simply head up into it. The couloir begins at 11,800 feet and never exceeds 45 degrees as it lazily wanders up the face. It provides between 900 and 1,400 vertical feet of snow climbing, depending on the condition of the upper part of the couloir. The couloir ends at a significant notch in the northwest ridge at 13,200 feet, from which you can peer down the North Face Route. From the notch, move to the upper part of the north face and finish the climb by scrambling up a series of short gullies to the summit plateau. This route provides a unique approach to North Arapaho’s flat summit.

South Arapaho Peak

13,397 Feet

See Map 13 on page 98 This minor summit rises a maximum of only 116 feet above the low point of its connecting ridge to North Arapaho, yet it reigns as the fourth highest peak in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. South Arapaho is dramatic when viewed from some vantage points to the east. Together with North Arapaho, it forms the east-facing cirque that holds the mighty Arapaho Glacier. This peak is usually ascended by its easy Southeast Ridge Route, but it also offers some superb snow climbs.

Southeast Ridge II, Class 2 From Fourth of July Trailhead: 8.0 miles, 3,250 feet This is the easiest route to South Arapaho’s summit and one of the most popular climbs in the Indian Peaks. From Fourth of July Trailhead, follow Arapaho Pass Trail 2.0 miles to the Fourth of July Mine at 11,240 feet. The mine still has a few interesting relics of a bygone era. Arapaho Pass and Arapaho Saddle are not the same place. Arapaho Pass is on the Continental Divide at 11,900 feet and is almost 2.0 miles away from South Arapaho Peak. Arapaho Saddle is the high, 12,700-foot saddle 0.5 mile southeast of South Arapaho Peak. You want to go to Arapaho Saddle.

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South Arapaho from the south. ( June)

From the Fourth of July Mine, leave the Arapaho Pass Trail and follow the Arapaho Glacier Trail 1.5 miles as it switchbacks up the broad slopes northeast of the mine to Arapaho Saddle. You can also reach Arapaho Saddle by starting at the Rainbow Lakes Trailhead and following the Arapaho Glacier Trail 6.0 miles. No matter how you reach it, a grand vista appears as you arrive at the saddle. Arapaho Saddle is technically in the Boulder watershed, but you will not be hassled here. Arapaho Saddle is the end of the maintained trail, but a good spur trail continues up the southeast ridge for the final 0.5 mile and 700 vertical feet to the summit. The trail stays fairly close to the ridge crest, and you can get occasional views down into the cirque below. South Arapaho’s summit has a very good view of the Arapaho Glacier Cirque. Extra Credit 1. From Arapaho Saddle, hike 0.5 mile east to Point 13,038. This ranked summit has carried the inauspicious nickname of “Old Baldy” for many years. “Old Baldy” rises at least 318 feet above Arapaho Saddle. While the name is uninspired, the view from this summit is superb. In fact, the view of the Arapaho Glacier Cirque is better from this summit than from the top of South Arapaho.

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2. From the Fourth of July Mine, continue up the Arapaho Pass Trail another 0.5 mile. Leave the trail, turn north (right) and climb up talus slopes to Point 12,300. This summit has carried the nickname “Quarter to 5 Peak” since the mid1960s when two very inspired individuals decided they would climb Jasper Peak. After numerous delays, they finally left Fourth of July Trailhead at quarter to five in the afternoon. They blasted up the trail at a high rate of speed, only to discover that Jasper was way across the basin and quite out of reach in the waning daylight. They climbed “Quarter to 5 Peak” that evening instead!

Skywalker II, Class 3, Steep Snow *Classic* From Fourth of July Trailhead: 5.8 miles, 3,250 feet With descent of Southeast Ridge: 6.9 miles, 3,250 feet This is the premier mountaineering route on South Arapaho. It ascends the large snow couloir on the peak’s south face. You can easily see the Skywalker couloir from the Fourth of July Mine and from many vantage points to the south. Because of its easy visibility and proximity to a major trail, this couloir has attracted a lot of climbers over the years. There has been at least one fatal accident here in which the victims misjudged the snow conditions. They were too early in the season and the snow avalanched on them. This couloir is no more dangerous than many of the climbs in this book, but some words of caution need to be repeated here. Snow conditions vary greatly from year to year and from month to month. Before charging forth with your city energy and competitive urges, take some time to understand the mountain environment you are entering. Study your couloir and its snow conditions carefully. Don’t be afraid to back off early in the ascent if the snow seems unstable. Better yet, do an easier climb nearby and gain knowledge of the snow conditions and the weather patterns in the area. Then, when conditions are clearly settled, come back and do your dream climb. The following observations are drawn from my experience with this area. May is too early for Skywalker. In some years, the first two weeks of June can also be too early. The couloir is stable from mid-June to mid-July. It remains in reasonable condition until the first of August. After July 1, crampons should be carried. A helmet should be worn at all times as the couloir is deeply inset into the face and has steep rock above it.

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The Arapahos from the east. (November)

Despite these limitations, this is a fantastic climb. From the Fourth of July Trailhead, follow the Arapaho Pass Trail 2.0 miles to the Fourth of July Mine. Follow the Arapaho Glacier Trail 0.4 mile, leave it and angle south 0.25 mile to the snow-covered slopes below the couloir. The couloir gradually steepens as it becomes more deeply inset into the face. The rock on the sides of the couloir is striated and beautiful. The feeling in the heart of Skywalker is distinctly alpine. This couloir does not extend all the way up to the ridge, and there is steep rock looming above the top of the snow to further enhance your reverie. As Skywalker approaches this rock, the angle reaches 55 degrees before the couloir fans out into a wider but still steep snow slope. To reach easier ground, angle up to the west (left) across this upper snow slope and traverse straight west just below the steep rock above. In July there is a moat between the snow and rock, which you can scurry along in safety for the final exit traverse. Once you are on easier ground, scramble north up to the ridge and head 100 yards east to South Arapaho’s summit. Variations 1. Princess Leia (Very Steep Snow/Ice) For one or two weeks a year, a direct finish can be done. During June there is a very steep and narrow snow/ice hose

C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS penetrating the steep rock band above the main couloir. This direct finish involves one or two pitches of 60- to 70-degree snow or ice and possibly some rock climbing of unknown difficulty. When this continuation to the climb melts out, it leaves a steep, wet and chockstone-infested chimney. This direct finish is a dicey proposition at best and further entrenches the need for picking stable conditions.

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2. Han Solo You can also finish this climb by moving east (right) from the upper snowfield. This finish adds two or three pitches of rock climbing and makes the route a mixed climb. You should attempt this finish after the rock above the couloir has finished shedding snow and has had a chance to dry out.

Streetwalker II, Class 3, Moderate/Steep Snow (Seasonal) From Fourth of July Trailhead: 5.8 miles, 3,250 feet With descent of Southeast Ridge: 6.9 miles, 3,250 feet This route provides an easier alternative to Skywalker. It also provides a sporty descent after an ascent of Skywalker. If Skywalker is in bad shape, Streetwalker will be in worse shape. Approach as for Skywalker. If Skywalker is not to your liking, climb northeast to the poorly defined Streetwalker couloir, which is 250 yards east of Skywalker. Climb moderate snow to a diagonal rock band half way up. Find a way through the rocks (Class 3) and continue up steepening snow. Exit the couloir to the east (right) when you choose. You can determine the steepness of your finish with your exit point. The top of the Southeast Ridge Route is a short distance above the top of the couloir. Follow it west to the summit.

ARAPAHO PASS TO ROLLINS PASS Chapter 7

ARAPAHO PASS TO ROLLINS PASS Required U.S.G.S. Quadrangles: Monarch Lake and East Portal This chapter covers the four peaks on the Continental Divide between Arapaho Pass and Rollins Pass. These peaks are the southern outliers of the Indian Peaks Wilderness. They are not as spectacular as the higher Indian Peaks farther north, but they have several excellent routes on them. These peaks are popular as early summer training climbs, and most of the routes in this chapter are Grade I. You can approach this area from the following trailheads: Fourth of July, Hessie, Meadow Creek, Devils Thumb Park and Rollins Pass.

Mount Neva

12,814 Feet

See Map 14 on page 116 This small peak has a lot of charm and offers the mountaineer a wide choice of routes. There are hiking routes, scrambling routes, snow routes and rock routes. Neva is 0.75 mile southwest of Arapaho Pass, and you can see Neva while hiking up the Arapaho Pass Trail. Its easy access, and good snow routes make Neva a favorite for early summer training expeditions. Neva is a good place to preview conditions on North Arapaho’s North Star Route. Almost all routes on Neva start with a hike to Arapaho Pass. From the Fourth of July Trailhead, follow the Arapaho Pass Trail for 3.0 miles to Arapaho Pass at 11,906 feet. Lake Dorothy is nestled at the edge of the basin below Neva’s eastern cirque 0.3 mile west of the pass. To reach the routes on Neva’s northeast face, hike around Lake Dorothy’s east side, then continue south up a snow or scree slope to the upper basin underneath the northeast face. This basin is snow filled in June.

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Neva from the west. (September)

Northwest Ridge I, Class 2 From Meadow Creek Trailhead: 8.0 miles, 2,770 feet From Fourth of July Trailhead: 11.6 miles, 4,750 feet This is the easiest route on Neva. It is not a very logical route for a one-day ascent from the east side of the Continental Divide, but it is an easy day from the Meadow Creek Trailhead on the west side of the divide. Unlike the other routes, this route passes Columbine Lake. A camp at Columbine Lake makes this route an easy excursion. From the Meadow Creek Trailhead, follow the Caribou Pass Trail east 1.8 miles, stay south (right) at a junction and continue east another mile on the Columbine Lake Trail to Columbine Lake at 11,060 feet. To reach Columbine Lake from Arapaho Pass, follow the Caribou Pass Trail as it climbs gently west 0.25 mile to 12,100 feet, then descends 0.5 mile across the steep escarpment north of Lake Dorothy to Caribou Pass at 11,800 feet. Follow the trail a few hundred yards down on the west side of Caribou Pass, then leave the trail and hike south down to Columbine Lake. There is a faint trail in this area, but it is hard to find. From Columbine Lake’s south side, hike south up an old trail to the 11,500-foot saddle between Point 11,831 and Neva’s northwest ridge. From this saddle, hike up the northwest ridge to the open slopes on the west side of Neva’s summit.

ARAPAHO PASS TO ROLLINS PASS Extra Credit 1. From the 11,500-foot saddle at the base of Neva’s northwest ridge, pick one of two available game trails and hike west to the shoulder of Point 11,831. Stroll north 0.4 mile to the highest point and peer back down to Columbine Lake. 2. Don’t stop here! Hike south 0.6 mile to an 11,420-foot saddle and scramble up a steep north-facing talus slope to the summit of Point 11,801. This little peak has a large, hidden east face. Both of these peaks are significant, as they rise 311 and 361 vertical feet respectively above their parent saddles. These peaks remain nameless to humans, but the animals make their home here. 3. Still going! From Caribou Pass above Columbine Lake, hike north for 0.4 mile to 11,979-foot Satanta Peak. This suspended summit is a good place to relax if you have the day off.

North Ridge I, Class 4 *Classic* From Fourth of July Trailhead: 8.6 miles, 2,870 feet This is a surprising and interesting ridge. It is not a hiking route. It requires good route-finding skills, involves a fair amount of exposed climbing and, for some parties, takes on the stature of a roped rock climb. It is shorter and harder than the traverse from South Arapaho to North Arapaho. From Lake Dorothy’s north side, hike west up easy slopes on a small trail to the start of the ridge. Scramble south a short distance to Point 12,536 and contemplate your future. You can see the route’s crux 300 yards south of Point 12,536. On the ridge’s east side there is a large, smooth north-facing wall with some light-colored stripes across it. There is a detached pinnacle where this wall connects to the north ridge. The route’s crux climbs into and then above the notch between the wall and the pinnacle. You can see this notch from Lake Dorothy. The crux is not as hard as it looks, but if you find the prospect terrifying, then a retreat from Point 12,536 would be prudent. To continue from Point 12,536, descend 100 feet on the ridge’s east side down a series of exposed steps and work south into the notch just south of Point 12,536. From this notch, descend 150 feet on the ridge’s west side, then traverse south on ledges to avoid the difficulties of the gendarmes on this portion of the ridge. Ascend slightly to the saddle north of the crux.

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From the saddle north of the crux, climb south on steepening, solid Class 3 rock on the ridge’s west side and reach the ridge crest before the climbing gets too serious. Peer around the ridge’s east side into the gully descending north from the pinnacle-wall notch. Do an ascending traverse up exposed Class 3 ramps and ledges to reach this gully 15 feet below the notch. The route’s crux is a steep 30-foot, northwest-facing Class 4 wall above this point. From the top of the crux wall, scramble up to the ridge and continue south along the ridge crest to Point 12,700. There is some exposed, wonderful Class 3 scrambling in this section. From Point 12,700 descend south to a saddle at the top of the Phoebe couloirs. Continue south up an easy Class 3 step to open slopes 300 yards north of the summit.

Phoebe I, Class 3, Moderate/Steep Snow From Fourth of July Trailhead: 8.0 miles, 2,670 feet This is the northernmost of the snow couloirs on Neva’s northeast face, and you can see it from the Arapaho Pass Trail. It is not the small couloir directly west of Lake Dorothy. Phoebe is southwest of the lake and rises above the upper basin. Phoebe is an early summer climb. By mid-July it is completely melted out, revealing an unpleasant scree slope. The climb is short but steep. Phoebe is on the northern end of the northeast face and is not a very direct route to Neva’s summit. Phoebe is actually a series of two or three couloirs separated by small rock abutments. The southern couloir usually has a cornice above it, while the northern couloir reaches the ridge without a cornice and is the safer choice. The couloirs are 300 feet high and reach a maximum angle of 45 to 50 degrees. They all reach the north ridge just south of Point 12,700. From this saddle, an easy Class 3 scramble south along the ridge leads to the open slopes north of the summit. Desdemona I, Class 2, Moderate Snow From Fourth of July Trailhead: 7.8 miles, 2,670 feet This couloir is located at the junction of the east-facing and northfacing portions of Neva’s northeast face. It is 200 yards south of Phoebe. Desdemona is seldom climbed and for good reason. There is a cornice threatening the route in May and June. By July the upper part of the couloir has melted out. Juliet is 100 yards east, has no cornice above it and is a safer route. Late June is the best time for an ascent of Desdemona. Once you are into the upper basin, head southwest across the basin and carefully consider the condition of the cornice.

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Neva from the east. ( June)

There are actually two couloirs to choose from in the upper part of the face, but both have cornices above them. The eastern couloir is the easier and more direct line. The couloirs are only 300 feet high and either can be climbed quickly. You can bypass the cornice above the eastern couloir on its east (left) side. The top of the couloirs leave you on the open slopes 300 yards northwest of the summit.

Juliet I, Class 2, Moderate Snow *Classic* From Fourth of July Trailhead: 7.8 miles, 2,670 feet Juliet is the easternmost continuous snow couloir on the northfacing portion of Neva’s northeast face. It is 100 yards east of Desdemona. This couloir is the most popular early summer snow climb on Neva. There is no cornice at the top of Juliet and her popularity is justified. Head south across the upper basin and climb up into the gradually steepening couloir. The angle reaches 40 degrees in the middle of the couloir, then relaxes in the upper portion as the couloir widens and deposits you serenely on the ridge. Hike 200 yards southeast to the summit. Northeast Slopes I, Class 3, Moderate Snow From Fourth of July Trailhead: 7.6 miles, 2,670 feet This popular route is 100 yards east of Juliet. It becomes the default route on this side of Neva after the snow couloirs melt out.

1 mi

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Contour Interval 40 feet



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Magnetic north declination

11.5º

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Mount Neva

MAP 14

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ARAPAHO PASS TO ROLLINS PASS Head south across the upper basin and ascend the snow slope until it ends in the rocks north of the summit. This point varies a lot depending on the month. In early June you can reach the summit on snow, and by July there is a sharp demarcation between snow and rock halfway up the face. Pick your spot to get from the snow to the rock (Class 3), then work up onto a talus slope and arrive directly on the summit from the north.

Jasper Peak

12,923 Feet

See Map 14 on page 116 This prominent peak is not named on the 1958 East Portal Quadrangle, but the register on the summit has had the name Jasper Peak for many years. You can see Jasper to the south when hiking up the Arapaho Pass Trail. Jasper is sometimes confused with Neva. Neva is just above Lake Dorothy near Arapaho Pass, and Jasper is on the Continental Divide 1.0 mile south of Neva. Jasper provides several moderate mountaineering routes and is often climbed together with Neva. If you are climbing Neva and Jasper together, it is best to traverse from Neva to Jasper, as the descents are easier from Jasper. The Northeast Ridge, Northeast Slopes, East Ridge, Gaiteraid and Storm Gulch routes all provide suitable descents from Jasper.

Northeast Slopes I, Class 2, Moderate Snow in June From Fourth of July Trailhead: 6.6 miles, 2,860 feet This is the easiest route up Jasper from the northeast. Jasper’s northwest face is a large, unpleasant talus field, but the small basin facing northeast contains a snow slope, which provides a civilized route. The northeast basin is bounded by Point 12,068 and Point 12,047 on the north, and Point 12,587 on the south. Reaching this beautiful basin requires some bushwhacking, but it is worth the effort. From the Fourth of July Trailhead, follow the Arapaho Pass Trail 0.5 mile to its junction with the Diamond Lake Trail, then follow the Diamond Lake Trail down to its crossing of Middle Boulder Creek. Once you are on the creek’s south side, leave the Diamond Lake Trail. Follow a small trail upstream 100 yards, then start angling west up the slope. The easiest route into the upper basin stays south of Point 11,190 and Point 11,620. Cross a small pass south of

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Point 11,620 and descend slightly to a beautiful unnamed lake at 11,550 feet. You can see the rest of the route from this lake. In early summer there may be a long glissade track down the snow slope that fills the upper basin. Continue west past the lake. The wreckage of a small plane is 200 yards west of the lake on the basin’s north side at 11,700 feet. From the plane wreckage, climb southwest onto the upper snow slopes. The exact route is a matter of choice and depends on snow conditions. The triangular face narrows to a false summit at 12,860 feet. From the false summit, scramble 200 yards southwest over talus to the main summit.

Northeast Ridge I, Class 3 From Fourth of July Trailhead: 6.8 miles, 2,860 feet This scenic ridge romp is slightly more difficult than the Northeast Slopes Route. Refer to the Northeast Slopes Route for directions to the unnamed lake at 11,550 feet. From the lake, angle west up talus and arrive on the northeast ridge at the 12,000-foot saddle just west of Point 12,068. Once you are on the ridge, simply ascend it 0.5 mile, cross Jasper’s small false summit and continue southwest to the main summit. East Ridge I, Class 3 From Fourth of July Trailhead: 10.0 miles, 2,950 feet This ridge is longer than the Northeast Ridge, but offers even better views as you cross Point 12,587. This is the easiest route to Jasper’s summit from Diamond Lake. From the Fourth of July Trailhead, follow the Arapaho Pass Trail 0.5 mile to its junction with the Diamond Lake Trail, then follow the Diamond Lake Trail another 2.0 miles to Diamond Lake at 10,950 feet. Stay on Diamond Lake’s north side and hike west for 0.5 mile to a bench at 11,400 feet, then climb northwest up steep talus to the crest of the east ridge at 12,000 feet. Follow the ridge west 1.0 mile, crossing Point 12,587 en route, to the small false summit northeast of the main summit. You also cross this false summit on the Northeast Ridge and Northeast Slopes routes. From the false summit, scramble 200 yards southwest over talus to the main summit. There is usually a large cornice between Point 12,587 and the false summit. This cornice can persist in a dangerous configuration until late summer. It is a peculiar cornice because it overhangs to

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The southeast face of Jasper. ( June)

the southwest. The winter westerlies clearly get turned around near this saddle. Exercise caution if you are crossing snow along this section of the ridge.

Snow Lion II, Class 3, Moderate Snow *Classic* From Fourth of July Trailhead: 9.6 miles, 2,780 feet This is the best mountaineering route on Jasper, but like an elusive wild animal, it is rarely available. It ascends Jasper’s small southeast face. In early June you can climb on snow from Upper Diamond Lake to the summit. By mid-June the route starts to melt out, and by July the snow on this route is gone. A good rule for this route is if the last mile of the Diamond Lake Trail has a lot of snow on it, then the route should be in good condition. Follow the East Ridge Route to Diamond Lake. Stay on Diamond Lake’s north side and head west up the valley 1.3 miles to Upper Diamond Lake at 11,740 feet. The hike up this basin is easy, remote and beautiful. The Snow Lion Route does not swing into view until you reach Upper Diamond Lake. A variety of routes are possible on the small, interesting southeast face above Upper Diamond Lake. The line of the Snow Lion Route stays on the snow and ascends directly up the middle of the face. The slope starts out gently, then relentlessly steepens. There is a rock band in the middle of the face, which you must pass, and it

C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS is this section of the route that melts out first. Above the rock band, the snow steepens to a maximum of 45 degrees before relaxing slightly. Swing to the west (left) as you approach the summit ridge and top out 50 feet from the summit cairn. Yahoo!

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Snow Leopard II, Class 3, Steep Snow From Fourth of July Trailhead: 9.8 miles, 2,780 feet This route ascends a couloir on the southern portion of the southeast face. It remains in condition through July, long after the Snow Lion Route has melted out. The Snow Leopard couloir has a cornice at the top, which is menacing in June. This cornice becomes blunted by late July. Study the condition of this cornice before heading up into this steep couloir. Follow the Snow Lion Route to Upper Diamond Lake. The Snow Leopard Route does not become visible until you reach the lake. From the small snow-filled basin above the lake, head up toward the center of the face, then turn west (left) and head up into the couloir. The angle is moderate at first, but steepens to 55 degrees below the cornice. You can easily avoid the cornice on the rocks to the south (left). An exciting alternative is to climb directly up the vertical face of the cornice. This is feasible by late July when the cornice is blunted. The top of the couloir is at 12,600 feet and Jasper’s summit is 300 yards north. Gaiteraid II, Class 2, Moderate Snow From Fourth of July Trailhead: 10.0 miles, 2,780 feet This interesting route provides an easier alternative to the Snow Lion or Snow Leopard routes, but still allows you to enjoy the scenic hike to Upper Diamond Lake and a unique approach to Jasper’s summit. Gaiteraid does not melt out as fast as Snow Lion and remains in good shape through the summer. A reasonable plan is to hike to Upper Diamond Lake, take a good look at conditions, then make a route selection. Follow the Snow Lion Route to Upper Diamond Lake. You can see Gaiteraid before you reach the lake, but Snow Lion and Snow Leopard remain hidden until you arrive at the lake. Snow Lion ascends directly up the southeast face, Snow Leopard ascends a steep couloir on the south portion of the face and Gaiteraid ascends a broad snow slope at the southern edge of this face. Gaiteraid reaches Jasper’s southeast ridge at 12,300 feet and provides a shorter, gentler snow climb than either Snow Lion or Snow Leopard.

ARAPAHO PASS TO ROLLINS PASS From Upper Diamond Lake, continue west across easy snow slopes and ascend Gaiteraid’s broad slope for 400 feet to the southeast ridge. The slope steepens to 35 degrees on its east edge and reaches 45 degrees on its west edge. Choose the exact line to suit your mood. Once you are on the ridge, hike northwest up talus and grass to Jasper’s summit.

Storm Gulch and South Slopes II, Class 2 From Hessie Trailhead: 13.0 miles, 4,130 feet This is a very scenic hiking route up Jasper. It ascends the beautiful basin above Jasper Lake that contains Storm Lake and Upper Storm Lake. This pristine basin is the archetypal Front Range valley. From the Hessie Trailhead, follow the Devils Thumb Trail for 5.0 miles to Jasper Lake at 10,800 feet. Hike around the lake’s southwest side on small trails and pick a route up to Storm Lake at 11,420 feet. This is a beautiful lake, and here the adventure unfolds. The valley above Storm Lake contains several small benches, lakes, waterfalls, rock slabs, flowers … perhaps your imagination can conjure up a unicorn. Upper Storm Lake remains frozen until late summer and may contain trolls. Before reaching the upper lake, angle slightly south (left) and ascend easy grass and/or snow slopes south of Upper Storm Lake. These easy slopes reach the Continental Divide at 12,400 feet. Once you are on the divide, turn north, descend slightly and hike easily up Jasper’s south slopes for 620 vertical feet to the summit. Variation In June and early July you can reach the divide by ascending a moderate snow slope north of Upper Storm Lake. This is a more direct route to the summit and adds a mountaineering challenge to the ascent.

Devils Thumb

12,100 Feet

See Map 15 on page 124 Every climbing area should have at least one Devils Thumb! The Devils Thumb of the Indian Peaks is just east of the Continental Divide, 1.2 miles south of Jasper Peak and 3.0 miles north of Rollins Pass. It is a free-standing spire with a large south face. It is visible from the west side of the divide, but is seen from only a few locations

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on the east side of the divide. It should not be confused with the much more visible Devils Thumb in the Flatirons above Boulder, Colorado. When you see it from a distance, Devils Thumb appears to rise directly from the Continental Divide, but it is actually east of the divide. Devils Thumb is part of a large south face rising above Devils Thumb Lake. The thumb has a Class 5.8 route on its south face. The easiest route climbs from the notch north of the summit and provides a spectacular Class 5.4 climb. Devils Thumb can be approached from the Hessie Trailhead, the Rollins Pass Trailhead or the Devils Thumb Park Trailhead. From the Hessie Trailhead, follow the Devils Thumb Trail to Devils Thumb Lake. The Devils Thumb Trail above Devils Thumb Lake is incorrectly marked on the 1958 East Portal Quadrangle. The trail does not ascend directly from Devils Thumb Lake to Devils Thumb Pass as shown on the map. The trail climbs southwest from Devils Thumb Lake to the saddle south of Point 12,123 and joins the Corona Trail. The Corona Trail skirts west of Point 12,123 and descends to Devils Thumb Pass. You can climb the moderate snow slope below the pass to avoid the trail’s circuitous route. From the Rollins Pass Trailhead, hike 3.3 miles north on the Corona Trail to Devils Thumb Pass. From the Devils Thumb Park Trailhead, hike east 3.2 miles on the Corona Trail to Devils Thumb Pass.

Devils Spiral I, Class 5.4 *Classic* From Rollins Pass Trailhead: 7.4 miles, 1,200 feet From Devils Thumb Park Trailhead: 7.2 miles, 2,550 feet From Hessie Trailhead: 13.4–15.4 miles, 3,400–3,830 feet This is the easiest route to Devils Thumb’s summit. It spirals completely around the spire and provides a unique tour of the devil’s territory. From Devils Thumb Pass, hike north up the divide and keep an eye on the thumb. Hike above the level of the notch just north of the thumb. Scramble east and climb up a 100-foot, westfacing wall (Class 4) to a ridge north of and above the notch. Descend on the east side of the ridge to the notch (Class 5.4). There is one Class 5.4 move in this descent, which may be the hardest move of the climb, especially since you first encounter it while downclimbing. From the notch, angle up to the southeast 60 feet on a narrowing Class 4 ramp. Go around a corner and get onto the thumb’s upper east face. Angle up to the south (left) 50 feet across this steep

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Devils Thumb from the west. (August)

Class 5.0–5.2 face as the exposure increases dramatically below you. Creep up around another corner onto the top part of the very narrow south face. The final Class 5.3 moves to the summit are directly up this south face. The exposure is fierce here, but the summit is only a few feet away. Descents 1. Downclimb the route. 2. Rappel 100 feet north from the summit to the notch. A secure anchor can be difficult to find on the summit, so be prepared to downclimb the route before attempting it. Extra Credit From the Continental Divide just west of Devils Thumb, hike north for 0.3 mile to Point 12,660, one of the Indian Peaks’ ranked

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS summits. This hike will give you a chance to stretch your legs after your ascent of Devils Thumb. It is also a good alternative if Devils Thumb is not to your liking.

“Skyscraper Peak” 126

12,383 Feet

See Map 15 on page 124 This unnamed peak is the most distinguished summit on the gentle stretch of the Continental Divide between Jasper Peak and James Peak. It is 2.0 miles north of Rollins Pass, and you can see it from there. From the summit, Bob and Betty Lakes are 0.75 mile south, Skyscraper Reservoir is 0.5 mile southeast and Devils Thumb Lake is 1.0 mile north. Although this peak is unnamed on the 1958 East Portal Quadrangle, it rises 636 vertical feet above Devils Thumb Pass, which is the highest saddle connecting “Skyscraper Peak” to higher ground. Many named peaks have much smaller rises by the same measure. The name “Skyscraper Peak” has been on this summit for many years. “Skyscraper Peak” is the culminating point on a long east-west ridge that is the remnant of the carving action of two glaciers. You can easily reach the summit with a short Class 3 scramble east from the Corona Trail. The glaciers offer a pair of interesting snow climbs.

West Ridge I, Class 3 From Rollins Pass Trailhead: 5.6 miles, 880 feet This is the easiest route on “Skyscraper Peak” and one of the shortest routes anywhere. From the Rollins Pass Trailhead follow the Corona Trail north for 2.0 miles. Leave the trail and hike east up the narrowing west ridge of “Skyscraper Peak.” Finish the ascent with a little easy Class 3 scrambling to this suspended summit. Challenger Glacier II, Class 3, Very Steep Snow From Rollins Pass Trailhead: 9.4 miles, 2,100 feet With descent of West Ridge: 7.7 miles, 1,480 feet From Hessie Trailhead: 14.0 miles, 3,600 feet This aerial glacier is on the northeast cirque of “Skyscraper Peak.” The top of the glacier reaches the divide 0.4 mile west of the summit. Like a good glacier, this climb is available year-round, but it is more pleasant before mid-July when the talus slopes below the glacier are snow covered.

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Challenger Glacier from the east. (August)

There are two possibilities for approaching this climb. From the Hessie Trailhead, follow the Devils Thumb Trail to Devils Thumb Lake, then hike southwest for a mile across the basin to the base of the glacier. An alternate approach is to start from the Rollins Pass Trailhead and follow the Corona Trail north for 3.0 miles along the divide. From the saddle south of Point 12,123, descend east on the Devils Thumb Trail to 11,400 feet, leave the trail and descend into the basin to the base of the glacier. The route is obvious from the basin below the glacier. The angle steepens fiendishly for 500 vertical feet as you approach the summit cornice. If you attack the cornice directly, the angle becomes very steep even if the cornice is blunted. Once you are on the divide, scramble 0.4 mile east to the summit. Variation You can make a more sedate finish by traversing north (right) on a large Class 3 escape ledge. This ledge is on the north (right) side of the glacier, 150 feet below the cornice.

East Ridge II, Class 3 From Hessie Trailhead: 11.0 miles, 3,400 feet This ridge provides good views and a sometimes airy traverse to “Skyscraper Peak.” From the Hessie Trailhead, follow the Woodland Lake Trail to Skyscraper Reservoir. From the reservoir’s north

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Skyscraper Glacier from the east. (August)

side, climb north to the east ridge and follow it west 0.4 mile to the summit. Return to Skyscraper Reservoir by scrambling west, then descending south and east.

Skyscraper Glacier I, Class 3, Moderate/Steep Snow *Classic* From Rollins Pass Trailhead: 5.5 miles, 1,960 feet With descent of West Ridge: 5.3 miles, 1,420 feet This is a very enjoyable route on “Skyscraper Peak.” Southfacing Skyscraper Glacier rises above Bob Lake and reaches the divide 0.4 mile west of the summit. In spite of its southern exposure, Skyscraper Glacier remains in good shape throughout the summer. The shortest approach for this climb is from Rollins Pass. From the Rollins Pass Trailhead, follow the Corona Trail northwest 0.3 mile to its junction with the Bob and Betty Lakes Trail. Follow this trail down to King Lake and continue north on the trail to Bob Lake. In June you can climb on snow all the way from Bob Lake to the divide, and even in August most of this distance can be covered on snow. The slopes above the lake are easy, but the angle steepens as you approach the upper part of the basin. The glacier’s main, upper portion is quite wide and your exact route is a matter of choice. The west (left) side of the glacier is the steepest. There is a long cornice with some gaps in it at the top of the glacier, which you can climb through proudly to the divide. The summit is 0.4

ARAPAHO PASS TO ROLLINS PASS mile east. It is an easy 2.0-mile hike back to Rollins Pass along the Corona Trail via the West Ridge Route. Variation In June there is a gentler alternative to the main glacier. There is an easy/moderate snow slope east (right) of the glacier, which reaches the divide without any cornice problems. This slope melts out by August, but it still provides a good escape from the glacier if you do not like what you see out there.

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ROLLINS PASS TO BERTHOUD PASS Chapter 8

ROLLINS PASS TO BERTHOUD PASS Required U.S.G.S. Quadrangles: East Portal, Empire and Berthoud Pass This chapter covers the nine peaks on the Continental Divide between Rollins Pass and Berthoud Pass. This stretch of the divide is more gentle than the rugged areas farther north, and these peaks are easy to climb. Many pleasant days have been spent in this area. Several interesting mountaineering routes are tucked away on the east faces of some of these peaks. James Peak’s east face in particular is the home of some very exciting snow couloirs. All of these peaks provide good early summer training climbs. You can approach this area from the following trailheads: Rollins Pass, East Portal, Rogers Pass, Lower and Upper Mammoth Gulch, Saint Mary’s Glacier, Loch Lomond, Fall River and Berthoud Pass.

“Sprint Peak”

12,110 Feet

See Map 17 on page 130 This small, unnamed peak lies directly west of East Portal on the Continental Divide. It is flanked by Crater Lakes to the southeast and Arapaho Lakes to the northeast. The steep terrain above these lakes gives this otherwise undistinguished summit some mountaineering interest.

Crater Couloirs II, Class 4, Steep Snow From East Portal Trailhead: 7.0 miles, 2,910 feet From Rogers Pass Trailhead: 3.8 miles, 2,730 feet With descent of West Slopes: 3.1 miles, 1,870 feet There are two steep couloirs on the southeast face of “Sprint Peak.” These climbs are in good condition in June and melt out as the summer progresses. Both of the couloirs are visible from the western Crater Lake.

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There are two approaches to this climb. From the East Portal Trailhead, follow the South Boulder Creek Trail 1.8 miles, then follow a trail northwest up to the western Crater Lake. For a shorter approach, leave the Rollins Pass Road near Riflesight Notch and hike east up to Point 12,060. From this gentle summit, which contains the wreckage of an old phone line, descend east and then north to a point above the western Crater Lake. The southern couloir is gentler and shorter than the northern one, but it still merits the steep rating. The northern couloir is very steep near the top where it is deeply inset into the face. Cornices can be a problem, and both of these couloirs are serious undertakings. The summit of “Sprint Peak” is a short distance northeast from the tops of the couloirs. Extra Credit 1. From the summit of “Sprint Peak” hike north along the divide for 1.0 mile to Point 12,072, alias “Beacon Peak.” For many years this unranked summit held a lighthouse to keep small airplanes from crashing into the Continental Divide. The beacon is gone but the name remains as a reminder of an earlier era. “Beacon Peak” is also an easy 1.2-mile hike south from Rollins Pass. 2. For a lazy hike, leave the Rollins Pass Road at 11,580 feet 0.9 mile south of Rollins Pass. Hike down to Pumphouse Lake at 11,334 feet then hike 0.4 mile southwest up to Mount Epworth’s 11,843-foot summit.

“Heartbeat Peak”

12,251 Feet

See Map 17 on page 130 This unnamed peak is on the Continental Divide 0.5 mile northwest of Heart Lake and 0.75 mile north of Rogers Pass. This is a significant summit, as it rises 391 vertical feet above Rogers Pass, which is the highest saddle connecting it to higher ground. The gentle summit of “Heartbeat Peak” is easily reached from the south or the north by hiking along the Continental Divide. It is the eastfacing cirque above Iceberg Lakes 0.5 mile north of the summit that gives the peak some mountaineering interest.

ROLLINS PASS TO BERTHOUD PASS Icebox Express II, Class 2, Moderate Snow From East Portal Trailhead: 8.0 miles, 3,050 feet If this couloir doesn’t titillate your senses, the prospect of taking a slide directly into Iceberg Lake surely will. The couloir rises above the southern Iceberg Lake in an enchanting setting. This climb is in good condition from mid-May through mid-July. You can preview the condition of this couloir from strategic points near Rollinsville. From the East Portal Trailhead, follow the South Boulder Creek Trail 2.0 miles to 10,160 feet. Leave the trail, bushwhack west to Clayton Lake and continue west to the southern Iceberg Lake. Hike around the lake’s south end and angle up into the couloir. The couloir provides 500 feet of steepening, moderate snow and ends abruptly on the divide. There may be a cornice at the top. Once you are on the divide, stroll 0.3 mile south to the summit of “Heartbeat Peak.” You can descend easily by hiking southeast down to Heart Lake and regaining the South Boulder Creek Trail. Variation An easier alternative, which avoids the cornice at the top, stays south (left) of the couloir on a broad snow slope. This slope is gentler than the couloir.

James Peak

13,294 Feet

See Map 18 on page 134 This prominent peak is the second highest peak on the Continental Divide between the Arapaho Peaks and Berthoud Pass. James Peak varies from gentle slopes to a nearly vertical east face. With its proximity to Denver and easy approach, the peak is justifiably popular. The summit marks the junction of Gilpin, Clear Creek and Grand counties. James is the highest peak in Gilpin County. By far the most popular approach to James Peak is via Saint Mary’s Glacier on the peak’s gentle southeast slopes. Three other approaches require a 4WD vehicle but provide good access to the north face, the east face and the south face. For details on these approaches, see the Saint Mary’s Glacier Trailhead, the Rogers Pass Trailhead, the Upper and Lower Mammoth Gulch Trailhead and the Loch Lomond Trailhead.

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ROLLINS PASS TO BERTHOUD PASS Saint Mary’s Glacier is a multisport snow playground enjoyed by thousands of people each year. In the winter it is a good testing ground for winter camping skills and equipment. In the spring and summer, skiers sharpen their turns and mountaineers practice snowclimbing skills. The glacier is an ideal place for these activities, as it is easy to choose a slope angle from very gentle to very steep. The glacier’s lower part is gentle on the north and steepens to the south. These slopes do not have a good runout, and an uncontrolled fall on the steep slopes above Saint Mary’s Lake can be worse than humiliating. The glacier’s upper part fills a small valley leading up to the west. The most popular slopes for snow school are the south-facing slopes above this valley, which provide various angles and good runouts.

Southeast Slopes I, Class 2, Easy Snow From Saint Mary’s Glacier Trailhead: 7.0 miles, 2,920 feet From Upper Mammoth Gulch Trailhead: 5.6 miles, 1,970 feet From Loch Lomond Trailhead: 4.4 miles, 2,100 feet This is the standard hiking route up James Peak and presents no technical difficulties, but does require a crossing of Saint Mary’s Glacier. From the Saint Mary’s Glacier Trailhead at 10,400 feet, leave the paved road and follow the rough 4WD road northwest 0.5 mile to Saint Mary’s Lake. The bottom of Saint Mary’s Glacier is 200 yards north of the lake. Climb west up easy snow slopes on the glacier’s north side and continue west up the glacier’s easy upper portion. You can first see the peak a few hundred yards above the top of the glacier at 11,500 feet. The uninitiated may perceive the peak as a long way away, and by Front Range standards it is. Continue west 1.5 miles across the gentle slopes of Jamaica to the peak’s upper slopes at 12,100 feet. This large open area can be difficult to navigate across in a whiteout, and many people have missed Saint Mary’s Glacier when descending east back across Jamaica. You can be misled by the terrain into the drainages south of the glacier. It is a good idea to look back during the ascent and understand where the glacier is. In winter or other low visibility conditions, protect your retreat with a compass reading. From Jamaica’s west end, either cross a snow slope to gain the southeast ridge or swing south and ascend the southeast slopes. The southeast ridge provides better views, and the easier southeast slopes avoid the snow. Either way is gentle, as the final 1,200 vertical feet require a mile.

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS Variations 1. From the Upper Mammoth Gulch Trailhead at 11,500 feet, climb south up the old, blocked 4WD road to 12,000 feet on the shoulder west of Kingston Peak. Turn west, descend slightly to Jamaica and join the regular route. 2. From the Loch Lomond Trailhead at 11,200 feet, hike north 0.8 mile to the west end of Jamaica and join the regular route. This approach shortens the climb considerably but requires a 4WD vehicle.

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Extra Credit 1. Kingston Peak’s gentle 12,147-foot summit is 0.75 mile north of the top of Saint Mary’s Glacier and makes a nice addition to this hike. 2. From the east side of Saint Mary’s Lake just below Saint Mary’s Glacier, hike east up a scruffy slope to Fox Mountain’s 10,921-foot summit. This nifty perch provides a unique view of the glacier.

North Slopes I, Class 2 From Rogers Pass Trailhead: 7.6 miles, 2,200 feet This route ascends the gentle north slope of James Peak above the Ute Trail. From Riflesight Notch hike 2.3 miles up the old 4WD road to the Rogers Pass Trailhead. Pick up the Ute Trail on the west side of the divide and follow it south a mile as it skirts the gendarmes on this section of the divide. The trail deposits you on James Peak’s north slopes at 12,300 feet. The summit is an easy 0.5-mile hike up to the south. Extra Credit From the Ute Trail east of the divide, descend 0.5 mile north into a tiny basin. Climb north then east to Haystack Mountain’s 11,780foot summit. This little peak has a small but surprising east face.

Northeast Slopes II, Class 2, Easy/Moderate Snow From Saint Mary’s Glacier Trailhead: 8.2 miles, 4,520 feet With descent of Southeast Slopes: 7.7 miles, 3,720 feet From Upper Mammoth Gulch Trailhead: 4.2 miles, 2,670 feet This easy route provides a scenic but longer alternative to the Southeast Slopes Route. When combined with a descent of that

ROLLINS PASS TO BERTHOUD PASS route, it provides a nice Tour de James. The Northeast Slopes Route passes James Peak Lake and climbs toward the upper basin underneath the peak’s impressive east face. You can avoid the difficulties of this face by circling around to the peak’s north side. This route can be approached from either the Saint Mary’s Glacier or Mammoth Gulch trailheads. From the Saint Mary’s Glacier Trailhead, follow the Southeast Slopes Route up Saint Mary’s Glacier and cross the gentle slopes of Jamaica to the broad 11,900foot saddle between James Peak and Kingston Peak. From the west end of this saddle, descend steeply north 700 vertical feet to the junction of the Ute Trail and the James Peak Lake Trail. This slope is snow or grass depending on the season. Follow the James Peak Lake Trail west 0.3 mile to James Peak Lake at 11,212 feet. Another alternative is to cross the shoulder west of the summit of Kingston Peak and descend to the Upper Mammoth Gulch Trailhead. From the Upper Mammoth Gulch Trailhead at 11,500 feet, descend west on the Ute Trail to a junction at 11,150 feet, then continue west to James Peak Lake. The distance from the trailhead to the lake is 1.0 mile. Hike around either side of James Peak Lake and climb west into the upper basin underneath James’ east face. The easiest route into the upper basin is via a snow slope northwest of the lake, which reaches the basin’s north side at 11,800 feet. From the north side of the upper basin, the exact route up onto the broad north face of James Peak is a matter of choice. The easiest route climbs up slightly to the east on easy snow and grass to reach the northeast ridge where it joins the North Slopes Route at 12,500 feet. For a more exciting route, and a closer look at the east face, head up into the basin for a few hundred yards, then cut up to the north. The farther into the basin you go, the harder the escape is. Once you are on the broad north slopes, hike south up talus 0.4 mile to the summit. The descent can be done by either reversing this route or by heading down the easy Southeast Slopes Route.

Starbright II, Class 3, Moderate Snow From Saint Mary’s Glacier Trailhead: 8.0 miles, 4,520 feet With descent of Southeast Slopes: 7.5 miles, 3,720 feet From Upper Mammoth Gulch Trailhead: 4.4 miles, 2,670 feet This curious route on the east face’s north edge is a mixed climb of dubious quality. Follow one of the approaches for the Northeast Slopes Route to the upper basin under the east face at 11,800 feet.

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Super Star couloir on James Peak. ( June)

Starbright is the couloir just north of the main portion of the east face and is visible from this point. Stay on the basin’s north side and climb west on steepening snow to the couloir’s entrance. By early June the upper portion of this route melts out, but the bottom portion is still snow. Climb up the moderate snow until it ends, then continue up the loose Class 3 rock above and join the Northeast Slopes Route 400 yards below the summit.

Super Star II, Class 5.4, Steep Snow *Classic* From Saint Mary’s Glacier Trailhead: 8.0 miles, 4,520 feet With descent of Southeast Slopes: 7.5 miles, 3,720 feet From Upper Mammoth Gulch Trailhead: 4.4 miles, 2,670 feet This is the shortest and steepest of three snow couloirs on James Peak’s east face. This steep and committing route is on the northern

ROLLINS PASS TO BERTHOUD PASS portion of the east face. This route’s main difficulty is the large cornice that forms at the top. As summer progresses it becomes blunted but is still a serious obstacle. You can see this route from the Southeast Slopes Route, but not from the basin below until you reach the entrance to the couloir. It is prudent to check out the condition of this couloir before attempting it. By August the snow in this couloir is completely gone. Follow one of the approaches described with the Northeast Slopes Route to the upper basin under the east face at 11,800 feet. You can see both Shooting Star and Sky Pilot from here but not Super Star. Cross the basin and climb up toward the center of the face on steepening, moderate snow. As you approach the face, Sky Pilot veers off to the south (left) and Shooting Star starts up into the center of the face. Just below the bottom of Shooting Star, you can see Super Star to the north. Carefully consider the condition of the cornice before proceeding up into Super Star. The southeast-facing couloir is straightforward 50-degree snow that gradually steepens as you approach the cornice. It is three pitches up to the cornice. You can avoid the cornice by climbing rocks on the east (right) side of the couloir 100 feet below the cornice. Finish the climb by circling around to the east (right) on Class 5.4 rock to easy ground. James Peak’s summit is 300 yards south.

Shooting Star II, Class 2, Steep Snow/Ice *Classic* From Saint Mary’s Glacier Trailhead: 7.6 miles, 4,520 feet With descent of Southeast Slopes: 7.3 miles, 3,720 feet From Upper Mammoth Gulch Trailhead: 4.0 miles, 2,670 feet This is the premier mountaineering route on James Peak. It ascends the narrow couloir near the middle of the east face, which tops out practically on the summit. While this couloir is an obvious and beautiful line, the climb should be done only during stable conditions. Most of the couloir is directly under the steepest part of the east face, and it receives a great deal of rockfall. In May and early June when there is a lot of snow in the couloir, the face above it is still shedding a great deal of debris. The face above the couloir is usually clean by mid-June, but the large number of rocks in the snow during my June 19 ascent bore testimony to the earlier bombardment. You can see Shooting Star from many vantage points to the east, and it is prudent to monitor conditions carefully before attempting this route. By August the snow in this couloir is gone.

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The east face of James Peak. ( June)

Follow one of the approaches described with the Northeast Slopes Route to the upper basin under the east face at 11,800 feet. You can see both Shooting Star and Sky Pilot from here, but not Super Star. Shooting Star is the northern, narrow couloir in the center of the face. Cross the basin and climb up to the couloir entrance on steepening, moderate snow. As you approach the face, Sky Pilot veers off to the south (left). Just before entering Shooting Star, you can see Super Star to the north (right). This is a spectacular and exciting place. The couloir’s bottom part angles slightly up to the south, and this portion of the route is the most exposed to rockfall. The angle in the lower portion is 40 degrees. The couloir’s upper part is steeper, ascends more directly toward the summit and becomes more deeply inset into the face. This portion of the couloir is usually shaded and can contain 200 feet of ice, even in June. Later in the summer there is always ice in this upper portion, and crampons are a must for the route. A rope length below the top, there is a 20-foot, 60-degree section that was snow, not ice, on June 19. The couloir ends abruptly and without a cornice a few feet from the trail on the Southeast Slopes Route. You might surprise a hiker! James Peak’s gentle summit is 100 feet away. Enjoy.

ROLLINS PASS TO BERTHOUD PASS Sky Pilot II, Class 4, Moderate Snow From Saint Mary’s Glacier Trailhead: 8.0 miles, 4,520 feet With descent of Southeast Slopes: 7.5 miles, 3,720 feet From Upper Mammoth Gulch Trailhead: 4.4 miles, 2,670 feet This route angles up to the south across the lower east face and is a safer, less committing route than Shooting Star. It is still a serious undertaking. Follow one of the approaches described with the Northeast Slopes Route to the upper basin under the east face at 11,800 feet. You can see both Shooting Star and Sky Pilot from here but not Super Star. Sky Pilot is the southern ramp and couloir system on the east face. Cross the basin and start up the steepening, moderate snow at the base of the face. Before reaching the base of the face and the start of Shooting Star, angle up to the south (left) on moderate snow to a small bench. There is a spectacular view of Super Star from here, and you can clearly see the rest of Sky Pilot to the south. Sky Pilot’s next several hundred feet are a ramp not a couloir. Very early in the summer this ramp is completely snow covered, but its lower edge rapidly melts out. By mid-June you can avoid the snow on the ramp and scramble up the Class 3 rock on the outside edge of the ramp. At the upper end of the ramp there is a nasty section where a small gully crosses the Sky Pilot ramp. This gully drops off steeply below the ramp. Cross to the south side of the gully via an exposed Class 4 maneuver. If snow conditions permit, it is best to get right up under the rocks of the east face and traverse past the narrow gully right where it emerges from the face above. Once you are past the gully, ascend a broad north-facing couloir 300 feet. The snow in this couloir was mushy and of dubious quality on my June 12 ascent. Three hundred feet below the ridge, the couloir splits into two narrower couloirs. Either couloir provides a reasonable finish, but the western (right) one is slightly longer, steeper and more aesthetic. Neither finish has a cornice at the top. Once you are on the ridge, hike 200 yards northwest to James Peak’s summit. Starlight II, Class 2, Moderate Snow From Saint Mary’s Glacier Trailhead: 8.2 miles, 4,520 feet With descent of Southeast Slopes: 7.7 miles, 3,720 feet From Upper Mammoth Gulch Trailhead: 4.6 miles, 2,670 feet This snow couloir offers an interesting mountaineering route in James Peak’s eastern cirque but does not require a great deal of

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Starlight couloir on James Peak. ( June)

commitment. The couloir is not on the peak’s large east face but on the north-facing slopes east of the east face. Because of its exposure, this couloir does not have a cornice at its top, and this is a good early summer climb. The couloir is usually in good condition in May and early June. By late June the upper portion of the couloir begins melting out, revealing unpleasant scree. Follow one of the approaches described with the Northeast Slopes Route to the upper basin under the east face at 11,800 feet. You cannot see Starlight on the approach, but it swings into view as you enter the upper basin. The couloir faces north and is some distance east of the large east face. Climb south across the basin 0.5 mile and enter the couloir at 12,400 feet. The couloir steepens and narrows toward the top. It reaches a maximum angle of 35 degrees and a minimum width of 20 feet. The couloir deposits you placidly on James Peak’s east ridge at 12,950 feet. Hike a gentle 0.3 mile west to the summit. Descend via the Southeast Slopes Route.

Ice Lake Couloir I, Class 3, Moderate Snow From Loch Lomond Trailhead: 4.4 miles, 2,100 feet This south-facing couloir rises directly above Ice Lake on James Peak’s south side and is definitely an early summer route. By August it is an unpleasant scree slope. From the Loch Lomond

ROLLINS PASS TO BERTHOUD PASS Trailhead, hike a mile northwest up the basin to Ice Lake and find the couloir above the lake’s north side. The couloir provides 500 vertical feet of moderate snow before it deposits you on James Peak’s gentle southeast slopes at 12,700 feet. Hike 0.5 mile north to the summit.

South Ridge I, Class 3 From Mount Bancroft: 1.2 miles, 700 feet (one way) This ridge is used when climbing James and Bancroft together. You can reach James Peak’s south ridge by descending Bancroft’s north ridge to the James-Bancroft saddle at 12,600 feet. From the saddle’s south end, do some Class 3 scrambling and a little routefinding to reach James Peak’s broad summit slopes. Hike 0.5 mile north to the summit.

Mount Bancroft

13,250 Feet

See Map 19 on page 144 Mount Bancroft is 1.3 miles south of James Peak. Gentle and easy to climb, Bancroft is often climbed together with either James or Parry.

Southeast Ridge I, Class 2 From Loch Lomond Trailhead: 3.6 miles, 2,050 feet From Fall River Trailhead: 3.6 miles, 2,510 feet This is the easiest route to Bancroft’s summit, but it requires a 4WD vehicle. From the Loch Lomond Trailhead at 11,200 feet, hike 0.6 mile southwest to Bancroft’s gentle southeast ridge and ascend it to the summit. Variation Start at the Fall River Trailhead and climb north 0.6 mile to the southeast ridge. This trailhead is 500 vertical feet lower, but can be reached with a passenger car. The Fall River Trailhead is the trailhead to use if you are climbing Bancroft and Parry together.

North Ridge I, Class 2 From James Peak: 1.2 miles, 650 feet (one way) This ridge is used when climbing James and Bancroft together. Descend James Peak’s south ridge to the James-Bancroft saddle at 12,600 feet (Class 3). Ascend Bancroft’s north ridge or the slope

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Parry Peak

MAP 19

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ROLLINS PASS TO BERTHOUD PASS east of it to a shoulder at 13,000 feet (Class 2). Hike 0.3 mile southwest to the summit.

West Ridge I, Class 2 From Parry Peak: 0.7 miles, 253 feet (one way) This ridge is used when climbing Bancroft and Parry together. The gentle ridge between Bancroft and Parry is 0.7 mile long and presents no technical difficulties.

Parry Peak

13,391 Feet

See Map 19 on page 144 Parry is on the Continental Divide 1.6 miles southwest of James. Parry is the highest peak on the Continental Divide between the Arapaho Peaks and Berthoud Pass. Other than this dubious distinction, it is not a very exciting peak. Parry is easy to climb and is usually climbed together with Bancroft or Eva. The connecting ridges with both Bancroft and Eva are Class 2 hikes.

South Slopes I, Class 2 From Fall River Trailhead: 4.4 miles, 2,650 feet This is the easiest way to reach Parry’s summit without traversing from Bancroft or Eva. Start at the Fall River Trailhead and hike northwest 1.6 miles to 12,200 feet in the basin between Parry and Eva. From here, climb north up steep scree and talus to the summit.

Mount Eva Witter Peak

13,130 Feet 12,884 Feet

See Map 19 on page 144 These two summits are above Chinns Lake at the head of the Fall River drainage, and are easily climbed together.

Chinns Lake Basin I, Class 2 From Fall River Trailhead, Mount Eva: 5.0 miles, 2,390 feet From Fall River Trailhead,Witter Peak: 5.0 miles, 2,150 feet From Fall River Trailhead, both peaks: 7.0 miles, 2,540 feet This is an easy hike up two gentle peaks. From the Fall River Trailhead, hike 0.3 mile southwest to Chinns Lake. From Chinns Lake,

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Mount Flora

MAP 20

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ROLLINS PASS TO BERTHOUD PASS hike 1.8 miles west up the basin between Eva and Witter to the EvaWitter saddle at 12,740 feet. Eva is 0.5 mile northeast. Witter’s summit is 0.5 mile east of the divide at the end of a very gentle ridge. Variation Chinns Lake can also be reached by a 4WD road angling west from 0.9 mile east of the Fall River Trailhead.

Mount Flora 13,132 Colorado Mines Peak

Feet 12,493 Feet

See Map 20 on page 146 Our southward journey through the Indian Peaks also ends on a gentle note. These two gentle peaks are the first summits encountered when hiking north along the Continental Divide from Berthoud Pass. Mount Flora provides an easy hike from a paved road to a high summit.

Southwest Ridge I, Class 2 From Berthoud Pass, Colorado Mines Peak: 2.0 miles, 1,180 feet From Berthoud Pass, both peaks: 5.4 miles, 2,530 feet From Berthoud Pass on U.S. 40, climb east 0.75 mile to the summit of Colorado Mines Peak. There is a locked service road to this summit and several buildings on top. From the summit of Colorado Mines Peak, hike northeast along the Continental Divide 1.7 miles to Flora’s summit. This stretch of the divide is gentle. There are no buildings on Flora’s summit, only flowers. Extra Credit 1. From Flora’s summit, traverse southeast 0.8 mile to Breckinridge Peak’s gentle 12,889-foot summit. 2. To challenge your legs, hike south from a point 0.7 mile southwest of Flora. Cross Point 12,845 and descend to Cone Mountain’s tiny 12,244-foot summit.

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SPECIAL EVENTS AND DIVIDE TRAVERSES 148 This chapter is devoted to interesting ways that the peaks in this book can be climbed together. It is common in Colorado to climb two or more peaks together. The special events and traverses discussed here are arduous events that combine three and even thirty peaks. These events are for climbers looking for new ways to challenge themselves. All of these events are challenging. Some of the challenges can be accomplished in one day. Some of the events require several days and take on an expedition flavor. Several of the routes cross the Continental Divide, and one is the lengthwise traverse of the divide. Traversing on foot across or along the Continental Divide is an interesting and challenging project. It spawns the pioneer spirit. The traverse along the Continental Divide from Berthoud Pass to Milner Pass was first described in Rocky Mountain National Park: Classic Hikes & Climbs. This traverse crosses all of the Indian Peaks Wilderness Area and most of Rocky Mountain National Park. It connects these preserves and is the premiere mountaineering adventure in the Front Range. There is a lot of room for creativity when planning an excursion from one watershed to another. You can go from east to west or from west to east. There are numerous places where crossings can be made. Some are easy and some are strenuous. A crossing can be done in one or more days. Because the trailheads are generally higher on the east side of the divide, it is usually easier to start on the east side. While any crossing can be done in either direction, they are all given from east to west for consistency. They are also ordered from north to south. Obviously, any crossing of the divide requires a significant vehicle shuttle. It helps to be dropped off and/or picked up.

S PECIAL EVENTS AND DIVIDE TRAVERSES In addition to these events, some people may choose to challenge themselves by climbing all the classic routes in this book. Maybe someone would like to set a speed record for that event? Because I created this designation, I can announce that my record is 35 years! Certainly someone can do better than that. Another challenge is to climb every peak in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Don’t forget to climb all the fourteeners in Colorado. Heck, why stop there? Climb every fourteener in the United States, Canada and Mexico, plus the 10 highest peaks in North America. How about the 50 classic climbs in North America? For the soul who first achieves that feat, I can only hope that some diabolical author doesn’t write a book called Another Fifty Classics! I can see it now. All of these successful people end up in Classic Climbers Heaven. They stroll into the library for a little look around and what do they find? Titles like Classics Galore, More Classics, More Classics Galore, 2,001 Colorado Classics, My Life with the Classics! Hell’s library (with apologies to Gary Larson). Say! How about Everest? Then there are the seven continent summits. Then there are all the 8,000-meter peaks. Anyone got a ticket to the moon? Mars? Some people rely on the 10 essentials. I rely on my Classic Commandments of Mountaineering: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12.

Never get separated from your lunch. Never get separated from your sleeping bag. Never get separated from your primal urges. Carefully consider where your primal urges are leading you. One must go the wrong way at least some of the time. First aid above 26,000 feet consists of getting below 26,000 feet. Never step on the rope. Never bivouac. Surfer Girl is not in the mountains. Never pass up a chance to pee. Don’t eat yellow snow. Have fun and don’t forget why you started.

Mohling Traverse

III, Difficulty Unknown

This traverse is named in memory of the late, great Franz Mohling who spoke with reverence about the day he spent traversing south

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Mohling Traverse from the west. (October)

from the summit of Lone Eagle Peak to “a higher summit.” The traverse goes from Lone Eagle Peak to “Iroquois.” A sketch of the route is included here but many of the details are left for those who want to share Franz’s adventure. There can be great solace in penetrating the unknown. Start the traverse on Lone Eagle Peak’s summit. Descend the Solo Flight Route to the two notches where the Solo Flight Route takes its only excursion to the west side of the ridge. Leave the Solo Flight Route and descend west 200 feet. Do an ascending traverse south on ledges for 200 yards to a deep U notch in the ridge. You cannot see this U notch from Crater Lake. Stay on the ridge’s west side and climb the steep, broken north face of a huge gendarme known as “Limbo” (12,420 feet). “Limbo” is the highest summit on the ridge between Lone Eagle and “Iroquois.” Descend the south side of “Limbo” to the “Limbo”“Iroquois” saddle. Climb the north face of “Iroquois.” This face is the most difficult part of the traverse. Escapes 1. You can climb east through the deep U notch and descend east to rejoin the Solo Flight Route.

S PECIAL EVENTS AND DIVIDE TRAVERSES 2. You can descend east from the “Limbo”-“Iroquois” saddle and rejoin the Solo Flight Route. Descent The easiest descent from the summit of “Iroquois” to Crater Lake is to traverse west over “Hopi” and descend Achonee’s Southeast Gully Route (Class 3).

Buchanan Pass

II, Class 1

This traverse is on maintained trails and is often combined with Pawnee Pass to make a nice circle tour. The east-west traverse across Buchanan Pass requires 16.0 miles, 3,150 vertical feet of elevation gain and 3,500 vertical feet of descent. The traverse can be reduced by 4.0 miles and 1,100 vertical feet if a 4WD vehicle is used up to the Indian Peaks Wilderness boundary on the east side of the divide. This shortcut reduces this traverse to a Grade I. Start at the Saint Vrain Trailhead and follow the 4WD road west 4.0 miles to the wilderness boundary. Continue west 2.8 miles on the Buchanan Pass Trail to Buchanan Pass at 11,837 feet. From the pass, follow the Buchanan Pass Trail down the west side of the pass 5.9 miles to its junction with the Cascade Trail. Continue west on that trail a final 3.3 miles to the Monarch Lake Trailhead. Variation Start at the Mitchell Lake Trailhead above Brainard Lake and follow the Beaver Creek Trail north 6.0 miles to the Buchanan Pass Trail. Hike west over Buchanan Pass to the junction of the Buchanan Pass Trail and the Cascade Trail. Follow the Cascade Trail east to Pawnee Pass and return to Brainard Lake on the Pawnee Pass Trail. This circle tour requires 26.4 miles and 6,900 vertical feet of elevation gain. It makes a wonderful multiday backpack and is also a good route for a macho mountain marathon. Extra Credit From the top of Buchanan Pass, hike southeast up talus 0.4 mile to the summit of Sawtooth Mountain (12,304 feet).

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Pawnee Pass

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I, Class 1

Pawnee Pass has always been a test piece for hikers. The round-trip hike to Pawnee Pass from Brainard Lake is rewarding by itself. The complete traverse of the divide via Pawnee Pass is sublime. Pawnee Pass is 700 feet higher than Buchanan Pass, but the east-side trailhead compensates for this by being at 10,500 feet. The eastwest traverse requires 14.75 miles, 2,040 vertical feet of elevation gain and 4,200 vertical feet of descent. Start at the Long Lake Trailhead and follow the Pawnee Pass Trail west 4.25 miles to Pawnee Pass at 12,541 feet. Descend west from the pass 10.5 miles on the Cascade Trail to the Monarch Lake Trailhead. This trip makes a nice two-day backpack with a camp at either Pawnee Lake or Crater Lake. Extra Credit 1. From Pawnee Pass, hike north up talus 0.4 mile to the summit of Pawnee Peak (12,943 feet). 2. Four miles west of Pawnee Pass, follow the Crater Lake Trail south 1.0 mile to beautiful Crater Lake. This side hike adds 2.0 miles to the traverse, but is well worth the extra effort. Crater Lake is a nice place to camp.

Arapaho Pass

I, Class 1

Traversing the divide via Arapaho Pass is a close second to Pawnee Pass as the best divide crossing in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. This traverse makes a leisurely two-day backpack with a camp at Caribou Lake. The east-west traverse requires 13.8 miles, 1,750 vertical feet of elevation gain and 3,100 vertical feet of descent. Start at the Fourth of July Trailhead and follow the Arapaho Pass Trail northwest 3.0 miles to Arapaho Pass at 11,906 feet. Do not make the mistake of going to Arapaho Saddle, which is high on the east side of South Arapaho Peak. From Arapaho Pass, descend north 1.3 miles to Caribou Lake and continue northwest on the Arapaho Trail 8.0 miles to a trail junction southwest of Monarch Lake. The final 1.5 miles to the Monarch Lake Trailhead are on the Southside Trail around the south side of Monarch Lake. It is 10.8 miles from Arapaho Pass to the Monarch Lake Trailhead.

S PECIAL EVENTS AND DIVIDE TRAVERSES

Caribou Pass

I, Class 1

This traverse has the distinction of being the shortest and easiest divide crossing between Milner Pass and Berthoud Pass. The trailheads on both sides of the divide are high and the distance is short. A camp at either Lake Dorothy or Columbine Lake converts this mellow traverse into a party! This traverse works equally well in either direction. The east-west traverse requires 7.0 miles, 1,950 vertical feet of elevation gain and 2,050 vertical feet of descent. Start at the Fourth of July Trailhead and follow the Arapaho Pass Trail northwest 3.0 miles to Arapaho Pass at 11,906 feet. Continue west on the Caribou Pass Trail 0.3 mile to the high point of the expedition at 12,100 feet near Lake Dorothy, then descend northwest to Caribou Pass at 11,800 feet. It is 1.0 mile from Arapaho Pass to Caribou Pass. The trail is washed out in several places on this traverse. From Caribou Pass, descend northwest 3.0 miles to the Meadow Creek Trailhead at 10,050 feet. Variation From Caribou Pass, descend northwest on the trail 0.25 mile, leave the trail and descend south to Columbine Lake. Finish the traverse by hiking northwest 1.0 mile on the Columbine Lake Trail to rejoin the Caribou Pass Trail 1.8 miles from the Meadow Creek Trailhead. Extra Credit From Caribou Pass, hike north up a gentle slope 0.35 mile to the summit of Satanta Peak (11,979 feet).

Devils Thumb Pass

I, Class 1

This divide crossing has not proven popular over the years. The trailhead on the east side of the divide is low and the trailhead on the west side is obscure. The east-west traverse requires 8.5 miles, 3,000 vertical feet of elevation gain and 2,350 vertical feet of descent. This is one of the few divide crossings that is easier from west to east but it is described east-west for consistency. Start at the Hessie Trailhead and follow the Devils Thumb Trail 5.0 miles to Devils Thumb Lake. The Devils Thumb Trail is

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS incorrectly marked on the 1958 East Portal Quadrangle. The trail does not ascend directly to Devils Thumb Pass, but climbs southwest to the divide 200 yards south of Point 12,123. The trail reaches the divide at 12,000 feet, which is the high point of the expedition. Once you are on the divide, follow the Corona Trail north as it skirts west of Point 12,123 and descends to Devils Thumb Pass at 11,747 feet. From here, descend west on the Corona Trail 2.3 miles to the Devils Thumb Park Trailhead.

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Rollins Pass

I, Class 2

See the Rollins Pass Trailhead for information on the Rollins Pass Road. Rollins Pass is the lowest pass on the Continental Divide between Milner Pass and Berthoud Pass. For nonmechanized travelers, this route is most often used in the winter as a ski traverse. Starting at the Lake Eldora Ski Area, this traverse requires a maximum of 21.0 miles, 2,300 vertical feet of elevation gain and 2,700 vertical feet of descent. From the Lake Eldora Ski Area, follow the Jenny Creek Trail 5.0 miles to the vicinity of Yankee Doodle Lake. Climb south to Guinn Mountain, continue west along the narrow ridge to join the Rollins Pass Road at 11,400 feet and follow the road west 1.5 miles to Rollins Pass. From the pass, the surest means of descent is to follow the Rollins Pass Road west 13.8 miles to U.S. 40. Skiers who find the old railroad grade too gentle for their liking can find plenty of shortcuts.

Rogers Pass

I, Class 1

This pass on the Continental Divide is seldom used to cross the divide. It is blocked to 4WD vehicles on the west side of the divide, and Rogers Pass serves neither hikers nor drivers very well. The east-west traverse to the Rollins Pass Road requires 7.0 miles, 2,650 vertical feet of elevation gain and 750 vertical feet of descent. Start at the East Portal Trailhead and follow the South Boulder Creek Trail 4.0 miles to Heart Lake. Continue another 0.5 mile up to Rogers Pass at 11,860 feet. From the pass, follow the old 4WD road north 2.3 miles to Riflesight Notch on the Rollins Pass Road.

S PECIAL EVENTS AND DIVIDE TRAVERSES

Pfiffner Traverse (one to two weeks) *Classic* In the late 1950s, Carl Pfiffner spoke passionately about traversing from the Arapaho Peaks to Longs Peak along the Continental Divide. This project retains all of its original mystique and is the ultimate mountaineering adventure in the Front Range. You can extend the adventure by going from Berthoud Pass to Milner Pass. There are many variations to this complicated project and any attempt requires your creativity. It certainly challenged mine. I have been climbing the Front Range for over 40 years, but this quest gave me a much deeper respect for it. There are several technical obstacles to traversing right on the crest of the Continental Divide. From south to north, they are: Neva’s north ridge, South Arapaho’s southwest face, North Arapaho’s northeast ridge, north ridge of “Deshawa,” Arikaree’s northwest ridge, Navajo’s north face, Apache’s north ridge, Toll’s north ridge, Paiute’s northwest ridge, Isolation’s north ridge and McHenrys Notch. Overcoming all of these problems on one continuous journey is a monumental project indeed! Dropping off the divide to avoid the tough spots leads to other problems. The drainages must then be crossed “against the grain,” producing large elevation gains and losses. The trail system does not help much, as the trails generally follow the east-west drainages. Any traverse on or near the divide is a significant undertaking that is not done very often. I had toyed with the idea of doing a trip along the divide since the 1950s, but had been deterred for many years by the thought of carrying ropes and hardware for many miles along the easy stretches of the divide and then dangling on the tough spots with all the camping gear. Finally in 1987, I did my own version of the Pfiffner Traverse. There are as many variations on this theme as there are people to do it, but I include my plans and itinerary as a general guide for those who are interested in pursuing this grand adventure. My trip went from Berthoud Pass to Milner Pass because those are the two paved roads that bind the heart of the Front Range. I chose to go from south to north for no really good reason other than it seemed more aesthetic to march north. The trip took 16 days simply because that was the number of days I had to devote to

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the project. My goal was not to stay on the crest of the divide exactly, but to move through interesting country, climb lots of peaks and be away from civilization for 16 days. I worked out a detailed schedule with ten days for forward marching and six days for day climbs along the way. Camping reservations were the next order of business. Camping above tree line is prohibited in Rocky Mountain National Park, which meant I would have to drop down each night into a crosscountry zone or a designated campsite. Many areas of the Indian Peaks Wilderness are also on the designated campsite system. I went first to the park backcountry office and got reservations as close to my original plan as possible, then went to the Forest Service and got the rest of my reservations. Finally, to keep my pack from being too heavy, I carefully hid food caches near Columbine Lake, Crater Lake and Lake Verna. To deposit and retrieve these food caches required 80 extra miles of hiking. I started the traverse on August 1 after a night of tremendous thunderstorms. Here is my story. Day 1. The trip started in swirling mist punctuated by dawn. Climbing silently above Berthoud Pass, I squinted north and spotted Ida. It was only an outline and impossibly far away. I could only point and utter the single word, “Ida.” Forward march! From Berthoud Pass, I carried my pack over Colorado Mines Peak, Flora, Eva, Parry, Bancroft and James before dropping wearily down to Rogers Pass after 10 hours of effort. My original plan called for dropping down to Heart Lake to camp, but it was a beautiful evening and I elected to camp right on the divide. It was the only chance to do so easily. I melted snow for water. Day 2. Forward march! I went from Rogers Pass to Columbine Lake, crossing the entire East Portal Quadrangle in one swell foop. I summited many of the unnamed peaks along this stretch of the divide, including “Heartbeat Peak,” “Sprint Peak” and “Skyscraper Peak.” I also peered down every couloir as I strolled along in shorts and running shoes. Finally, running out of time and growing weary, I traversed on the west sides of Jasper and Neva. I descended the lower part of Neva’s northwest ridge to Columbine Lake and my first food cache. This was another 10-hour day. The logic behind covering so much ground in the first two days was simply to buy more playtime in the heart of the

S PECIAL EVENTS AND DIVIDE TRAVERSES range. I needed perfect weather for these two days and, fortunately, got it. The cache at Columbine Lake kept my pack light. Even so, if I were to do the trip again, I would take three days for this distance. Day 3. I went from Columbine Lake to the nice campsite at 9,840 feet on the Arapaho Pass Trail west of the divide. This was an easy day. I carried my pack over the top of Satanta Peak and descended the grass directly to Caribou Lake. This was a good shortcut. Day 4. My first day climb. I bushwhacked from the bridge on the Arapaho Pass Trail at 9,740 feet directly up to Lost Tribe Lakes and climbed the Southwest Face Route of “Iroquois,” then traversed to “Hopi.” The bushwhack up to the lakes was tough and convinced me to abandon plans for carrying my pack to Crater Lake via a high route that I had spotted earlier. From the top of “Hopi,” I descended to Point 12,056, then dropped straight south down a steep avalanche chute, which worked out well and deposited me on the Arapaho Pass Trail five minutes below camp. Day 5. I hiked to Crater Lake on the Arapaho Pass and Cascade trails. My decision to abandon the high route was a good one. The trail miles flowed by easily. I was learning. The goodies in my second food cache were great! Day 6. Day climb time. I hurried up Lone Eagle Peak just minutes ahead of a serious storm, then beat a retreat back to the tent. I was entertained that evening by “Bugs,” a friendly bunny near the tent. Day 7. RAIN!! I had grand plans for a second day climb from Crater Lake, but they got washed up. I took a rest day. No sign of “Bugs” today. Day 8. I hiked from Crater Lake to Island Lake, following the Cascade Trail, the Buchanan Pass Trail and the Gourd Lake Trail, then bushwhacked above Gourd Lake to the highest site I could find above Island Lake. I was slightly sick from the “slime-ing” that I received at Crater Lake, and this turned into a tough day. That evening a young red fox pranced

157

C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS around camp trying to play with me as I lay in the tent with only my head sticking out. He came within a few feet of me, which was a truly remarkable animal sighting. Day 9. I did a leisurely day climb of Cooper and Marten and found my name on Marten from 10 years earlier. I kept this day easy in preparation for the next one.

158

Day 10. This turned out to be the toughest day. I went from Island Lake to Lake Verna, and in so doing crossed from the Indian Peaks Wilderness into Rocky Mountain National Park. The park does not allow camping in Paradise Park and the closest legal campsite to the Indian Peaks Wilderness is at Lake Verna. My original plan was to cross the 10,500-foot pass at the north end of Hell Canyon and work through Paradise Park near tree line. I wisely abandoned this plan and got back up on the divide. In this case the decision to go high was a good one. I got up at dawn. Through the windswept morning I carried my pack over “Ooh La La!,” Ogalalla and Ouzel, then dropped my pack near the 12,200-foot pass south of Isolation. After bagging Isolation from the south, I continued my Tour de Isolation by contouring around to the 11,900foot pass on the peak’s west side. I had to drop lower than I wanted to avoid a section of house-sized boulders, then slogged wearily back up to the pass. I dropped my pack again and bagged “Fleur de Lis” before descending past Fifth Lake to finally reach Lake Verna. This was an 11-hour day and I again had perfect weather when I needed it. Despite the goodies in my food cache, I was too tired to eat much. The Monarch Lake drainages had held me for seven nights, but I was in a new domain now. Day 11. I spent the next morning reorganizing my third and final food cache. In the afternoon I went back up to Spirit Lake, then bushwhacked up to the 11,400-foot pass between “Ptarmigans Beak” and Mount Alice. This bushwhack was steep at first, but then moderated. I was learning to minimize these encounters. From the pass, I descended into the park’s cross-country zone 3M. The East Inlet drainage had held me for only one night, but this was an intense time.

S PECIAL EVENTS AND DIVIDE TRAVERSES Day 12. My original plan was to do the Triple Crown on this day, but the reality of bushwhacking up to Lake Powell, then getting out of that basin the next day, sank in along with a new bunch of clouds. I climbed Andrews Peak and “Ptarmigans Beak” instead. As I watched the clouds move in on McHenrys, I realized that McHenrys Notch had pushed me this far west. Day 13. I went from zone 3M to zone 2M. I climbed to the 11,400-foot pass northeast of Andrews, then descended to Lake Nanita and picked up the trail. I had learned to use the trails when I could. I dropped my pack on the 11,050-foot pass between Lake Nanita and Lake Nokoni, then climbed Ptarmigan Mountain via the east ridge behind Ptarmigan Towers. On the descent I scrambled up to the top of Tower Three and was treated to a huge golden eagle that spiraled up between the towers to check me out. I zoomed down the trail into the depths of the North Inlet, then cast about in the rain for a trail up to Bench Lake. I found a vaguely cairned route as I struggled up past the cascades of War Dance Falls. This was the toughest bushwhack of the trip, but at least my camp would be legal. I went beyond Bench Lake to camp at the edge of a huge meadow full of deer that seemed unconcerned with my existence. This had been a tough day, but I was now hardened to the routine. Day 14. I floated up the pristine basin of Ptarmigan Creek and surprised several elk. I dropped my pack on the 11,550-foot pass at the head of the basin and climbed Snowdrift Peak. I remembered standing on this summit with Bruce Carson in May 1975. Bruce transmitted a real love of mountains on that trip. He died later that summer in the Himalayas when a cornice broke under him. The North Inlet held me for three nights. Back at my pack, I rolled north and picked up the Tonahutu Creek Trail, which led me easily to my designated campsite below Haynach Lakes. An icy wind blew all day. The heat wave was over. An entire herd of elk, including a bull with a huge rack, wandered within a few feet of my tent all night. This was their territory and I felt like an intruder.

159

C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS Day 15. My final day climb. I went back up the Tonahutu Creek Trail and fought upward in a blasting wind to the top of Sprague Mountain. I could only look at Hayden Spire, as the wind was strong enough to knock me over. Hayden Spire had been my last peak in Rocky Mountain National Park almost 10 years earlier, and I had hoped to revisit that summit.

160

Day 16. My final day began at midnight with rain drumming steadily on the tent. The weather had gone “out.” My final day was one of those exposed days where I needed to spend many hours on the divide. As I lay in the tent, I desperately wanted to finish the traverse and wondered just how bad it would have to be to keep me off the divide. The rain continued to fall and clouds gripped my tiny tent. How many nights had I lain awake on the world’s great peaks willing the clouds to part and the wind to fall? This trip had taken on an expedition flavor. I started moving at dawn. I spread out the maps and, with the headlamp on, worked out all the alternate routes. They were not good. I either went high or bailed out. The rain stopped and I moved up. As I ascended so did the clouds, and I saw new snow on the divide. I dropped my pack on the 11,600-foot pass above Haynach Lakes and headed for Nakai. Chief Cheley and Ida were still socked in. As I climbed, the clouds parted. They were being torn apart by my old friend the wind. On the summit of Nakai, I remembered my other visit to this summit 12 years earlier. It was a moment out of time. As I climbed Nakai, the snow melted on the divide. It was still August. I made my final upward push and went out to Cracktop. I peered intently down Cracktop couloir wondering about future adventures. I scrambled over Chief Cheley and faced the peak that had seemed impossibly far away on that first morning. Ida was my 30th peak and on the summit a mangy marmot was cruising around and intently sniffing the wind. He was sniffing for winter. I rolled down. As I approached Milner Pass, a tourist asked me, “Where does this trail go?” Without breaking stride I replied, “Berthoud Pass! … But you have to walk for 16 days!” I came. I saw. I climbed. The only thing left behind was the following nonsense in a summit register somewhere between Berthoud Pass and Milner Pass.

S PECIAL EVENTS AND DIVIDE TRAVERSES

‘Twas brillig, in the slithy toves Did gyre and gimble in the wabe All mimsy were the borogroves And the mome raths outgrabe. Beware the Iron Men, my son! The jaws that bite, the teeth that gnash!’ … (With apologies to Lewis Carroll!)

Southwest ridge of Marten Peak.

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TABLES 162

THE PEAKS This list’s scope is all summits over 10,500 feet elevation in the greater Indian Peaks Wilderness area. The list’s area is bounded by the northern Indian Peaks Wilderness boundary and the 10,500foot contour line to the east, south and west of the wilderness. Peaks west of Berthoud Pass are not included. The list covers 93 summits. I have listed five peaks that are just out of this area. Mount Adams is just north of the wilderness but is commonly climbed from the Roaring Fork in the wilderness, so I include it in the text and on this list. Four peaks, Klondike Mountain and Points 10,583, 10,626, 10,854, have connecting saddles that are below 10,500 feet but they are ranked summits and have neighbors in the list area. I include them for completeness. A peak qualifies for this list if it is named or ranked. Named summits are on the list if they are ranked or unranked. The 67 officially named summits include 25 peaks, 14 mounts, 17 mountains, 1 tooth (Elk Tooth), 1 thumb (Devils Thumb), 1 peck (Dicker’s Peck), 1 named ridge (Niwot Ridge), 2 named benchmarks (Cum and Caribou), 4 hills and 1 historic named point that does not rank (“Beacon Peak”). Unofficial names are enclosed in quotes. I list 58 ranked summits whether they are named or not. I rank a summit if it rises at least 300 feet from the highest connecting saddle to a higher ranked summit. The closest, higher ranked summit is the neighbor. This may be a different peak than the higher ranked summit above the highest connecting saddle. In the rare case where there are two or more connecting saddles of the same elevation leading to different higher ranked summits, the closest summit is the neighbor.

T HE P EAKS I have given interpolated elevations to summits and saddles that are only shown with contour lines. All the U.S.G.S. quads covering this area have 40-foot contour intervals. Thus, I have added 20 feet to the highest contour of a summit without a given elevation. I have given unmarked saddles an elevation halfway between the highest contour that does not go through the saddle and the lowest contour that does go through the saddle. If, using either given or interpolated elevations, a summit rises at least 300 feet from its highest connecting saddle to a higher ranked summit, it has a “hard rank.” Summits that do not have a hard rank but could rank if interpolated elevations were not used for either the summit or connecting saddle have a “soft rank.” There are three soft ranks on this list: “Ooh La La!,” “Iroquois” and Point 12,277. These summits have an S in the Rank column. Lack of an S means the peak has a hard rank. The Mile column shows the straight line map distance in miles between the peak and its neighbor. The Quadrangle column gives the U.S.G.S. 7.5-minute quad that shows the summit of the peak. The neighbor may be on a different quad or outside the list’s area. Use the Date column to track your climbs.

Colorado’s Indian Peaks Sorted by Elevation Date Rank Elev. 1 13,502 2 13,441 3 13,409 13,397 4 13,391 5 13,294 6 13,276 13,250 7 13,223 8 13,150 13,140 9 13,138 10 13,132 11 13,130 12 13,088

Peak Name North Arapaho Peak Apache Peak Navajo Peak South Arapaho Peak Parry Peak James Peak Kiowa Peak Mount Bancroft Mount Audubon Arikaree Peak Dicker’s Peck Ogalalla Peak Mount Flora Mount Eva Paiute Peak

Neighbor

Drop Mile

Quadrangle

Chiefs Head Peak 1,665 15.4 Monarch Lake North Arapaho 1,101 2.2 Monarch Lake Apache Peak 309 0.4 Monarch Lake North Arapaho 97 0.5 Monarch Lake North Arapaho 1,720 12.5 Empire Parry Peak 714 1.5 Empire Navajo Peak 736 1.3 Ward Parry Peak 253 0.7 Empire Apache Peak 843 3.4 Ward Kiowa Peak 570 0.8 Monarch Lake Navajo Peak 40 0.1 Monarch Lake Copeland Mtn. 718 1.4 Isolation Peak Parry Peak 686 2.4 Empire Parry Peak 430 0.8 Empire Mount Audubon 468 0.9 Monarch Lake

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS Date Rank Elev.

164

13 13,038 13,023 14 12,979 15 12,967 16S 12,945 17 12,943 18 12,923 12,889 12,884 12,876 19 12,848 12,820 20 12,814 21S 12,799 22 12,780 12,706 23 12,660 12,649 24 12,609 25 12,574 26 12,493 12,466 27 12,395 28 12,391 29 12,383 30 12,375 12,310 31 12,304 32 12,300 33 12,296 34S 12,277 35 12,251 12,224 36 12,220 37 12,162 12,147 38 12,130 39 12,121 40 12,113 12,110 12,100

Peak Name “Old Baldy” Niwot Ridge Mount Toll Shoshoni Peak “Ooh La La!” Pawnee Peak Jasper Peak Breckinridge Peak Witter Peak Mount George Elk Tooth “Deshawa” Mount Neva “Iroquois” “Hopi” “Mount Notabon” Point 12,660 Mount Achonee Mount Albion “Algonquin” Colorado Mines Peak Little Pawnee Peak Hiamovi Mountain Point 12,391 “Skyscraper Peak” Watanga Mountain Caribou Benchmark Sawtooth Mountain “Quarter to 5 Peak” Cooper Peak Point 12,277 “Heartbeat Peak” Cone Mountain “Hiamovi Tower” Saint Vrain Mtn. Kingston Peak “Cherokee” Mount Adams “Blackfoot” “Sprint Peak” Devils Thumb

Neighbor

Drop Mile

North Arapaho 338 Navajo Peak 163 Apache Peak 439 Apache Peak 347 Ogalalla Peak 285 Shoshoni Peak 402 North Arapaho 1,017 Mount Flora 149 Mount Eva 144 Apache Peak 136 Ogalalla Peak 468 North Arapaho 240 Jasper Peak 474 Apache Peak 299 “Iroquois” 520 Mount Audubon 126 Jasper Peak 360 “Hopi” 229 Kiowa Peak 389 Paiute Peak 434 Mount Flora 353 Pawnee Peak 126 Ogalalla Peak 895 “Ooh La La!” 451 Point 12,660 636 Hiamovi Mtn. 595 “Old Baldy” 10 “Algonquin” 364 Mount Neva 394 “Ooh La La!” 436 Point 12,391 297 James Peak 391 Mount Flora 144 Hiamovi Mtn. 320 Elk Tooth 902 James Peak 247 “Hopi” 350 Watanga Mtn. 301 Paiute Peak 373 “Heartbeat Peak” 250 Point 12,660 40

0.7 0.6 2.3 0.9 0.6 1.0 2.8 0.7 0.9 0.4 0.7 0.7 0.9 0.7 0.6 0.6 0.8 0.6 0.7 0.9 1.6 0.6 1.7 2.6 1.6 1.2 1.4 1.2 1.5 0.8 0.7 2.1 1.5 0.4 3.7 2.1 1.2 1.5 1.2 1.7 0.3

Quadrangle Monarch Lake Monarch Lake Monarch Lake Monarch Lake Isolation Peak Monarch Lake East Portal Empire Empire Monarch Lake Isolation Peak Monarch Lake Monarch Lake Monarch Lake Monarch Lake Ward East Portal Monarch Lake Ward Monarch Lake Berthoud Pass Ward Isolation Peak Isolation Peak East Portal Isolation Peak Ward Allenspark Monarch Lake Isolation Peak Isolation Peak East Portal Empire Isolation Peak Allenspark Empire Monarch Lake Isolation Peak Monarch Lake East Portal East Portal

T HE P EAKS Date Rank Elev.

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50

51

52

53 54 55

56 57 58

12,072 12,060 12,041 11,979 11,957 11,940 11,938 11,843 11,831 11,801 11,780 11,754 11,721 11,632 11,580 11,534 11,471 11,361 11,340 11,239 11,220 11,205 10,948 10,921 10,900 10,870 10,860 10,854 10,810 10,770 10,749 10,636 10,626 10,618 10,588 10,583 10,508

Peak Name “Beacon Peak” “Achonee Tower” Marten Peak Satanta Peak Twin Peaks Lone Eagle Peak Thunderbolt Peak Mount Epworth Point 11,831 Point 11,801 Haystack Mountain Mount Irving Hale “Roaring Peak” Meadow Mountain “Coney Island” Nebraska Hill Niwot Mountain “Martenette” Bald Mountain Yankee Hill Guinn Mountain Woodland Mountain Montana Mountain Fox Mountain Pile Hill Colorado Mountain Chittenden Mountain Point 10,854 Bryan Mountain Klondike Mountain Sheridan Hill California Mountain Point 10,626 Cum Benchmark Lonesome Peak Point 10,583 Mount Acoma

Neighbor “Heartbeat Peak” “Hopi” Cooper Peak Mount Neva Mount Adams “Iroquois” “Blackfoot” “Skyscraper Peak” Mount Neva Point 11,831 James Peak Hiamovi Mtn. Mount Adams Saint Vrain Mtn. Sawtooth Mtn. James Peak Navajo Peak Marten Peak “Old Baldy” James Peak “Skyscraper Peak” “Skyscraper Peak” James Peak James Peak James Peak Montana Mtn. Jasper Peak Point 11,831 “Skyscraper Peak” “Old Baldy” James Peak Colorado Mtn. Mount Neva James Peak Mount Neva Saint Vrain Mtn. Twin Peaks

Drop Mile 212 120 461 199 617 40 318 503 331 381 120 574 301 412 400 154 91 301 40 139 120 65 408 181 120 330 80 554 190 310 129 56 526 78 448 483 168

2.7 0.8 0.7 1.3 1.7 0.6 0.9 2.7 1.0 0.7 1.0 1.9 0.7 1.2 0.5 2.9 5.0 1.0 2.1 3.9 2.2 1.6 4.9 2.8 3.5 1.4 3.7 3.0 3.6 3.2 5.1 0.5 5.4 4.1 6.1 3.4 1.8

Quadrangle East Portal Monarch Lake Isolation Peak Monarch Lake Shadow Mountain Monarch Lake Monarch Lake East Portal Monarch Lake Monarch Lake Empire Isolation Peak Isolation Peak Allenspark Ward East Portal Ward Isolation Peak Nederland Central City East Portal East Portal Central City Empire Central City Nederland Nederland Strawberry Lake Nederland Nederland Central City Central City Strawberry Lake Empire Monarch Lake Allenspark Shadow Mountain

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*CLASSIC* ROUTES 166

Airplane Gully of Navajo Peak Apache Couloir of Apache Peak Devils Spiral of Devils Thumb Dicking Around of Dicker’s Peck East Ridge of “Algonquin” East Ridge of Ogalalla Peak East Ridge of Paiute Peak East Ridge of Pawnee Peak Fair Glacier of Apache Peak Hopi Glacier of “Hopi” Juliet of Mount Neva Navajo Snowfield and North Face of Navajo Peak North Face of Lone Eagle Peak North Ridge of Mount Neva North Ridge of Mount Toll North Star of North Arapaho Peak Northeast Face of Mount Achonee Northeast Face of Mount Toll Northeast Ridge of Marten Peak Ooh La La Express of “Ooh La La!” Pfiffner Traverse of the Continental Divide Queens Way of Apache Peak Shooting Star of James Peak Skyscraper Glacier of “Skyscraper Peak” Skywalker of South Arapaho Peak Snow Lion of Jasper Peak Solo Flight of Lone Eagle Peak

I, Class 3 II, Class 3, Steep Snow I, Class 5.4 I, Class 5.5 II, Class 2 II, Class 4 II, Class 3 I, Class 3 III, Class 3, Steep Snow/Ice II, Class 3, Moderate Snow I, Class 2, Moderate Snow II, Class 5.0–5.2, Steep Snow III, Class 5.7 I, Class 4 II, Class 5.6 II, Class 3, Moderate Snow II, Class 4 II, Class 5.6, Moderate Snow II, Class 3 II, Class 3, Steep Snow (one to two weeks) I, Class 2, Moderate Snow II, Class 2, Steep Snow/Ice I, Class 3, Moderate/Steep Snow II, Class 3, Steep Snow II, Class 3, Moderate Snow II, Class 4

EAKS *C LASSICT HE* RPOUTES South Ridge of North Arapaho Peak Southeast and Northeast Faces of “Cherokee” Southeast Buttress of “Hiamovi Tower” Southeast Face of Mount Toll Southwest Face of “Iroquois” Super Star of James Peak

II, Class 4 II, Class 3 III, Class 5.4 I, Class 2, Moderate Snow II, Class 2+ II, Class 5.4, Steep Snow

167

I NDEX

INDEX Achonee Arrow Variation of Northeast Face of Mount Achonee Steep Snow “Achonee Tower” 12,060’ Airplane Gully of Navajo Peak I, Class 3 *Classic* “Algonquin” 12,574’ East Ridge II, Class 2 *Classic* Apache Couloir of Apache Peak II, Class 3, Steep Snow *Classic* Apache Peak 13,441’ Apache Couloir II, Class 3, Steep Snow *Classic* East Ledges I, Class 3 Fair Glacier III, Class 3, Steep Snow/Ice *Classic* Queens Way I, Class 2, Moderate Snow *Classic* South Ridge II, Class 3 Arapaho Pass Divide Traverse I, Class 1 Arapaho Pass Trail (East) Arapaho Pass Trail (West) Arikaree Peak 13,150’

92 92 57 35 35 51 50 51 52 53 51 53 152 13 17 100

“Beacon Peak” 12,072’ Beaver Creek Trail Beaver Creek Trailhead “Blackfoot” 12,113’ North Face Couloir South Face Southwest Slopes Blue Lake Trail Bob and Betty Lakes Trail Breckinridge Peak 12,889’ Buchanan Pass Divide Traverse Buchanan Pass Trail (East) Buchanan Pass Trail (West)

132 12 3 81 82 82 81 12 14 147 151 12 17

Caribou Pass Divide Traverse Caribou Pass Trail Cascade Trail Challenger Glacier of “Skyscraper Peak”

II, Class 3, Steep Snow II, Class 3 II, Class 2

II, Class 1

I, Class 1

153 18 17

II, Class 3, Very Steep Snow

126

169

C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS

170

“Cherokee” 12,130’ South Face Southeast and Northeast Faces Chinns Lake Basin of Mount Eva Chinns Lake Basin of Witter Peak Colorado Mines Peak 12,493’ Southwest Ridge Columbine Lake Trail Cone Mountain 12,224’ “Coney Island” 11,580’ East Ridge Cooper Peak 12,296’ East Face North Couloir North Ridge South Buttress Southwest Ridge Corona Trail Crater Couloirs of “Sprint Peak” Crater Lake Trail Desdemona of Mount Neva “Deshawa” 12,820’ West Slopes Devils Spiral of Devils Thumb Devils Thumb 12,100’ Devils Spiral Devils Thumb Park Trailhead Devils Thumb Pass Divide Traverse Devils Thumb Trail Diamond Lake Trail Dicker’s Peck 13,140’ Dicking Around Dicking Around of Dicker’s Peck East Chimney of Mount Toll East Face of Cooper Peak East Face of “Hopi” East Ledges of Apache Peak East Portal Trailhead East Ridge of “Algonquin” East Ridge of “Coney Island” East Ridge of Elk Tooth East Ridge of Jasper Peak East Ridge of Little Pawnee Peak

II, Class 4 II, Class 3 *Classic* I, Class 2 I, Class 2 I, Class 2

I, Class 2 II, Class 3 II, Class 3, Steep Snow II, Class 3 II, Class 4 II, Class 2 II, Class 4, Steep Snow

I, Class 2, Moderate Snow II, Class 2 I, Class 5.4 *Classic* I, Class 5.4 *Classic* I, Class 1

I, Class 5.5 *Classic* I, Class 5.5 *Classic* I, Class 4 II, Class 3 II, Class 3 I, Class 3 II, Class 2 *Classic* I, Class 2 II, Class 3 I, Class 3 I, Class 3

89 90 89 145 145 147 147 18 147 34 35 72 75 74 73 76 73 18 131 17 114 101 101 122 121 122 9 153 14 13 55 55 55 45 75 94 52 6 35 35 24 118 47

I NDEX East Ridge of Ogalalla Peak East Ridge of Paiute Peak East Ridge of Pawnee Peak East Ridge of Sawtooth Mountain East Ridge of “Skyscraper Peak” East Slopes of Mount Audubon East Slopes of Saint Vrain Mountain Elk Tooth 12,848’ East Ridge Fall River Trailhead Fair Glacier of Apache Peak Forest Lakes Trail Fourth of July Trailhead Fox Mountain 10,921’ Gaiteraid of Jasper Peak Glacier Rim Trail Gourd Lake Trail Han Solo Variation of Skywalker of South Arapaho Peak Haystack Mountain 11,780’ “Heartbeat Peak” 12,251’ Icebox Express Hell Canyon Trail Hessie Trailhead Hiamovi Mountain 12,395’ South Face Southwest Slopes “Hiamovi Tower” 12,220’ Southeast Buttress West Ridge “Hopi” 12,780’ East Face Hopi Glacier Southeast Face West Slopes Hopi Glacier of “Hopi” Ice Lake Couloir of James Peak Icebox Express of “Heartbeat Peak” “Iroquois” 12,799’ Southwest Face Isabelle Glacier Trail

II, Class 4 *Classic* II, Class 3 *Classic* I, Class 3 *Classic* II, Class 3 II, Class 3 I, Class 1 II, Class 1 II, Class 3

III, Class 3, Steep Snow/Ice *Classic*

II, Class 2, Moderate Snow

II, Class 2, Moderate Snow

II, Class 3 II, Class 2 III, Class 5.4 *Classic* II, Class 3 II, Class 3 II, Class 3, Moderate Snow II, Class 3 II, Class 2 II, Class 3, Moderate Snow *Classic* I, Class 2, Moderate Snow II, Class 2, Moderate Snow II, Class 2+ *Classic*

27 42 46 34 127 37 22 24 24 7 53 15 5 136 120 13 16

110 136 132 133 16 5 66 67 67 67 68 68 93 94 94 95 93 94 142 133 96 96 13

171

C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS

172

James Peak 13,294’ Ice Lake Couloir North Slopes Northeast Slopes Shooting Star Sky Pilot South Ridge Southeast Slopes Starbright Starlight Super Star Jasper Peak 12,923’ East Ridge Gaiteraid Northeast Ridge Northeast Slopes Snow Leopard Snow Lion Storm Gulch and South Slopes Juliet of Mount Neva

I, Class 2, Moderate Snow I, Class 2 II, Class 2, Easy/Moderate Snow II, Class 2, Steep Snow/Ice *Classic* II, Class 4, Moderate Snow I, Class 3 I, Class 2, Easy Snow II, Class 2, Moderate Snow II, Class 2, Moderate Snow II, Class 5.4, Steep Snow *Classic* I, Class 3 II, Class 2, Moderate Snow I, Class 3 I, Class 2, Moderate Snow (Seasonal) II, Class 3, Steep Snow II, Class 3, Moderate Snow *Classic* II, Class 2 I, Class 2, Moderate Snow *Classic*

Kiowa Peak 13,276’ King Lake Trail Kingston Peak 12,147’ Little Pawnee Peak 12,466’ East Ridge North Couloirs Loch Lomond Trailhead Lone Eagle Peak 11,940’ North Face Solo Flight Long Lake Trailhead Lower Mammoth Gulch Trailhead Marten Peak 12,041’ Northeast Ridge Southwest Ridge West Couloir “Martenette” 11,361’ Meadow Creek Trailhead Meadow Mountain 11,632’ South Slopes Middle Saint Vrain Trailhead Mitchell Lake Trailhead

133 142 136 136 139 141 143 135 137 141 138 117 118 120 118 117 120 119 121 115 99 14 136

I, Class 3 I, Class 3, Steep Snow

III, Class 5.7 *Classic* II, Class 4 *Classic*

II, Class 3 *Classic* II, Class 3 II, Class 3, Steep Snow

I, Class 2

47 47 47 7 83 86 85 4 6 76 76 77 77 77 9 21 21 3 4

I NDEX Mohling Traverse Monarch Lake Trailhead Mount Achonee 12,649’ Achonee Arrow Variation of Northeast Face Northeast Face Northeast Gully Upper East Ridge Variation of Northeast Face West Slopes Mount Adams 12,121’ South Slopes Mount Albion 12,609’ Mount Audubon 13,223’ East Slopes Northwest Face South Face Southeast Ridge The Audubahn Variation of Southeast Ridge The Autobon Variation of Southeast Ridge Mount Audubon Trail Mount Bancroft 13,250’ North Ridge Southeast Ridge West Ridge Mount Epworth 11,843’ Mount Eva 13,130’ Chinns Lake Basin Mount Flora 13,132’ Southwest Ridge Mount George 12,876’ Mount Irving Hale 11,754’ North Ridge Mount Neva 12,814’ Desdemona Juliet North Ridge Northeast Slopes Northwest Ridge Phoebe “Mount Notabon” 12,706’ Mount Toll 12,979’ East Chimney

III, Difficulty Unknown

149 8 91

Steep Snow II, Class 4 *Classic* II, Class 3, Moderate Snow

92 91 93

Class 5.0–5.4 (?) II, Class 2

I, Class 1 II, Class 2, Moderate Snow I, Class 3, Moderate Snow I, Class 3

92 91 63 65 99 37 37 40 40 39

I, Class 3, Moderate Snow/Ice

39

II, Class 2

I, Class 3, Moderate Snow

I, Class 2 I, Class 2 I, Class 2

I, Class 2 I, Class 2

II, Class 2 I, Class 2, Moderate Snow I, Class 2, Moderate Snow *Classic* I, Class 4 *Classic* I, Class 3, Moderate Snow I, Class 2 I, Class 3, Moderate/Steep Snow

I, Class 4

39 12 143 143 143 145 132 145 145 147 147 55 72 72 111 114 115 113 115 112 114 39 42 45

173

C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS North Ridge Northeast Face Northeast Ramp South Slopes Southeast Face

174

Navajo Peak 13,409’ Airplane Gully Navajo Snowfield and North Face West Chimney Navajo Snowfield and North Face of Navajo Peak Niwot Mountain 11,471’ North Slopes Niwot Ridge 13,023’ North Arapaho Peak 13,502’ North Face North Star Northeast Ridge South Ridge North Couloir of Cooper Peak North Couloir of Shoshoni Peak North Couloirs of Little Pawnee Peak North Face Couloir of “Blackfoot” North Face of Lone Eagle Peak North Face of North Arapaho Peak North Ridge of Cooper Peak North Ridge of Mount Bancroft North Ridge of Mount Irving Hale North Ridge of Mount Neva North Ridge of Mount Toll North Slopes of James Peak North Slopes of Niwot Mountain North Slopes of Sawtooth Mountain North Slopes of Shoshoni Peak North Star of North Arapaho Peak Northeast Face of Mount Achonee Northeast Face of Mount Toll Northeast Gully of Mount Achonee Northeast Ramp of Mount Toll Northeast Ridge of Jasper Peak Northeast Ridge of Marten Peak Northeast Ridge of North Arapaho Peak

II, Class 5.6 *Classic* II, Class 5.6, Moderate Snow *Classic* II, Class 5.0–5.2, Steep Snow I, Class 2 I, Class 2, Moderate Snow *Classic*

43 44 45 43 45

I, Class 3 *Classic*

57 57

II, Class 5.0–5.2, Steep Snow *Classic* II, Class 4

58 60

II, Class 5.0–5.2, Steep Snow *Classic*

58 61 I, Class 2 61 58 101 II, Class 3, Moderate/Steep Snow 104 II, Class 3, Moderate Snow *Classic* 105 II, Class 4 103 II, Class 4 *Classic* 102 II, Class 3, Steep Snow 74 II, Class 2, Moderate Snow 49 I, Class 3, Steep Snow 47 II, Class 3, Steep Snow 82 III, Class 5.7 *Classic* 86 II, Class 3, Moderate/Steep Snow 104 II, Class 3 73 I, Class 2 143 II, Class 2 72 I, Class 4 *Classic* 113 II, Class 5.6 *Classic* 43 I, Class 2 136 I, Class 2 61 II, Class 2 33 I, Class 2 49 II, Class 3, Moderate Snow *Classic* 105 II, Class 4 *Classic* 91 II, Class 5.6, Moderate Snow *Classic* 44 II, Class 3, Moderate Snow 93 II, Class 5.0–5.2, Steep Snow 45 I, Class 3 118 II, Class 3 *Classic* 76 II, Class 4

103

I NDEX Northeast Ridge of Twin Peaks Northeast Slopes of James Peak Northeast Slopes of Jasper Peak Northeast Slopes of Mount Neva Northwest Face of Mount Audubon Northwest Ridge of Mount Neva

II, Class 2 II, Class 2, Easy/Moderate Snow I, Class 2, Moderate Snow (Seasonal) I, Class 3, Moderate Snow II, Class 2, Moderate Snow I, Class 2

65 136 117 115 40 112

Ogalalla Express of Ogalalla Peak Ogalalla Peak 13,138’ East Ridge Ogalalla Express Southwest Slopes “Old Baldy” 13,038’ “Ooh La La!” 12,945’ Ooh La La Express Vrain Drain Ooh La La Express of “Ooh La La!”

II, Class 3, Moderate Snow

28 25 27 28 25 107 29 30 30 30

Paiute Peak 13,088’ East Ridge Southeast Face Parry Peak 13,391’ South Slopes Pawnee Pass Divide Traverse Pawnee Pass Trail Pawnee Peak 12,943’ South Slopes East Ridge Pfiffner Traverse of the Continental Divide (one to two weeks) Phoebe of Mount Neva Point 12,660’ Point 12,391’ Point 12,277’ Point 11,831’ Point 11,801’ Point 11,479’ Princess Leia Variation of Skywalker of South Arapaho Peak “Quarter to 5 Peak” 12,300’ Queens Way of Apache Peak Rainbow Lakes Trailhead Roaring Fork Trail

II, Class 4 *Classic* II, Class 3, Moderate Snow II, Class 2

II, Class 3, Steep Snow *Classic* II, Class 3, Steep Snow II, Class 3, Steep Snow *Classic*

II, Class 3 *Classic* I, Class 2 I, Class 2 I, Class 1

I, Class 2 I, Class 3 *Classic*

31 42 42 145 145 152 13 46 46 46

*Classic* I, Class 3, Moderate/Steep Snow

155 114 123 33 33 113 113 22

Very Steep Snow/Ice

109

I, Class 2, Moderate Snow *Classic*

108 51 4 16

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C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS Roaring Fork Trailhead “Roaring Peak” 11,721’ Rogers Pass Divide Traverse Rogers Pass Trailhead Rollins Pass Divide Traverse Rollins Pass Trailhead

176

Saint Mary’s Glacier Trail Saint Mary’s Glacier Trailhead Saint Vrain Glacier Trail Saint Vrain Mountain 12,162’ East Slopes Saint Vrain Mountain Trail Saint Vrain Mountain Trailhead Satanta Peak 11,979’ Sawtooth Mountain 12,304’ East Ridge North Slopes South Face Shooting Star of James Peak Shoshoni Peak 12,967’ North Couloir North Slopes Southwest Couloirs Sky Pilot of James Peak Skyscraper Glacier of “Skyscraper Peak” “Skyscraper Peak” 12,383’ Challenger Glacier East Ridge Skyscraper Glacier West Ridge Skywalker of South Arapaho Peak Snow Leopard of Jasper Peak Snow Lion of Jasper Peak Solo Flight of Lone Eagle Peak South Arapaho Peak 13,397’ Han Solo Variation of Skywalker Princess Leia Variation of Skywalker Skywalker Southeast Ridge Streetwalker South Boulder Creek Trail

I, Class 1 I, Class 2

II, Class 1

II, Class 3 II, Class 2 II, Class 5.0–5.6 II, Class 2, Steep Snow/Ice *Classic* II, Class 2, Moderate Snow I, Class 2 II, Class 3–5.2, Steep Snow II, Class 4, Moderate Snow I, Class 3, Mod./Steep Snow *Classic* II, Class 3, Very Steep Snow II, Class 3 I, Class 3, Mod./Steep Snow *Classic* I, Class 3 II, Class 3, Steep Snow II, Class 3, Steep Snow II, Class 3, Moderate Snow *Classic* II, Class 4 *Classic*

8 65 154 10 154 9 15 7 12 22 22 11 2 113 31 34 33 34 139 47 49 49 50 141 128 126 126 127 128 126 108 120 119 85 106 110

Very Steep Snow/Ice II, Class 3, Steep Snow *Classic* II, Class 2 II, Class 3, Moderate/Steep Snow

109 108 106 110 15

I NDEX South Buttress of Cooper Peak South Face of “Blackfoot” South Face of “Cherokee” South Face of Hiamovi Mountain South Face of Mount Audubon South Face of Sawtooth Mountain South Ridge of Apache Peak South Ridge of James Peak South Ridge of North Arapaho Peak South Slopes of Mount Adams South Slopes of Meadow Mountain South Slopes of Mount Toll South Slopes of Parry Peak South Slopes of Pawnee Peak South Slopes of Thunderbolt Peak Southeast and Northeast Faces of “Cherokee” Southeast Buttress of “Hiamovi Tower” Southeast Face of “Hopi” Southeast Face of Mount Toll Southeast Face of Paiute Peak Southeast Ridge of Mount Audubon Southeast Ridge of Mount Bancroft Southeast Ridge of South Arapaho Peak Southeast Slopes of James Peak Southwest Couloirs of Shoshoni Peak Southwest Face of “Iroquois” Southwest Ridge of Colorado Mines Peak Southwest Ridge of Cooper Peak Southwest Ridge of Marten Southwest Ridge of Mount Flora Southwest Slopes of “Blackfoot” Southwest Slopes of Hiamovi Mountain Southwest Slopes of Ogalalla Peak “Sprint Peak” 12,110’ Crater Couloirs Starbright of James Peak Starlight of James Peak Storm Gulch and South Slopes of Jasper Peak Streetwalker of South Arapaho Peak

II, Class 4 II, Class 3 II, Class 4 II, Class 3 I, Class 3, Moderate Snow II, Class 5.0–5.6 II, Class 3 I, Class 3 II, Class 4 *Classic* II, Class 2 I, Class 2 I, Class 2 I, Class 2 I, Class 2 II, Class 2 II, Class 3 *Classic*

76 82 90 67 40 34 53 143 102 65 21 43 145 46 81 89

III, Class 5.4 *Classic* II, Class 3 I, Class 2, Moderate Snow *Classic* I, Class 2 I, Class 3 I, Class 2

68 95 45 42 39 143

II, Class 2 I, Class 2, Easy Snow II, Class 3–5.2, Steep Snow II, Class 3 *Classic*

106 135 50 96

I, Class 2 II, Class 2 II, Class 3 I, Class 2 II, Class 2

147 73 77 147 81

II, Class 2 II, Class 2 II, Class 4, Steep Snow II, Class 2, Moderate Snow II, Class 2, Moderate Snow

67 25 131 131 137 141

II, Class 2 II, Class 3, Moderate/Steep Snow

121 110

177

C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS Super Star of James Peak The Audubahn Variation of Southeast Ridge of Mount Audubon The Autobon Variation of Southeast Ridge of Mount Audubon Thunderbolt Peak 11,938’ South Slopes Twin Peaks 11,957’ Northeast Ridge

178

II, Class 5.4, Steep Snow *Classic*

138

I, Class 3, Moderate Snow/Ice

39

I, Class 3, Moderate Snow

39 81 81 65 65

II, Class 2 II, Class 2

Upper East Ridge Variation of Northeast Face of Mount Achonee Upper Mammoth Gulch Trailhead Ute Trail

Class 5.0–5.4 (?)

92 6 15

Vrain Drain of “Ooh La La!”

II, Class 3, Steep Snow

30

Watanga Mountain 12,375’ West Slopes West Chimney of Navajo Peak West Couloir of Marten Peak West Ridge of “Hiamovi Tower” West Ridge of Mount Bancroft West Ridge of “Skyscraper Peak” West Slopes of “Deshawa” West Slopes of “Hopi” West Slopes of Mount Achonee West Slopes of Watanga Mountain Witter Peak 12,884’ Chinns Lake Basin Woodland Lake Trail

II, Class 2 II, Class 4 II, Class 3, Steep Snow II, Class 3 I, Class 2 I, Class 3 II, Class 2 II, Class 2 II, Class 2 II, Class 2 I, Class 2

66 66 60 77 68 145 126 101 93 91 66 145 145 14

ROARING FORK AND HELL CANYON

Photo by Clyde Soles.

179

Gerry Roach after Gasherbrum II.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Gerry Roach is a world-class mountaineer. After climbing Mount Everest in 1983, he went on to become the second person to climb the highest peak on each of the seven continents in 1985. In more than 40 years of mountaineering, Gerry has climbed in dozens of states and countries. He has been on 12 Alaskan expeditions, 10 Andean expeditions and 7 Himalayan expeditions, including first ascents in the kingdom of Bhutan. In 1997 he summited Gasherbrum II in the Karakoram Range. He is a member of the American Alpine Club. Closer to home, Gerry has climbed more than 1,200 named peaks in Colorado, including all the fourteeners. He has climbed every named peak in the Colorado counties of Boulder, Gilpin, Clear Creek and Jefferson. He finished climbing every named peak in the Indian Peaks Wilderness and Rocky Mountain National Park in 1978. Gerry is also an accomplished rock climber. He is the author of Flatiron Classics: A Guide to Easy Climbs & Trails in Boulder’s Flatirons (Fulcrum), Rocky Mountain National Park: Classic Hikes & Climbs (Fulcrum) and Colorado’s Fourteeners:

C OLORADO’S I NDIAN P EAKS From Hikes to Climbs, Revised & Updated (Fulcrum), which remains the definitive guide to Colorado’s highest peaks. In Colorado’s Indian Peaks: Classic Hikes and Climbs, Gerry continues to convey his intimate knowledge of and love for Colorado’s high peaks. He returns to Colorado’s mountains time and time again to hone his skills. Mountaineering in this rugged and beautiful state forms the foundation for his successful expeditions to Earth’s great peaks. Gerry lives in Boulder, Colorado, with his wife Jennifer.

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The Climb Against Cancer In July 1997 a team of dedicated mountaineers climbed the southwest ridge of Gasherbrum II (26,360 feet) near K2 in the Karakoram Range. This was a climb against cancer. Cancer is one of the leading causes of death in the United States. The goal of the 1997 USA Karakoram Cancer Research Gasherbrum II Expedition was to raise awareness of cancer and to secure funds for the CU Cancer Research Foundation in Denver and the Islamic Cancer Foundation in Pakistan. This climb was part of an ongoing effort that has raised a third of a million dollars in the last twenty years. Our hugely successful expedition created an outstanding adventure for many, placed ten members on the summit and raised over $10,000 for cancer research. The author reached the summit on July 13, 1997, and scattered his sister Jan’s ashes to the high winds. Jan died of breast cancer in 1996. The Colorado Cancer Foundation was founded by families and friends wanting to join the fight against cancer in a personal way. The money we raise goes directly to the division of Medical Oncology at the University of Colorado Health Sciences Center to support basic and clinical cancer research and patient care. Support the cause! Send your tax deductible contribution to: The Colorado Cancer Foundation P.O. Box 7116 Boulder, CO 80306-7116 (303) 995-8130 All proceeds go to support cancer research