Bordeaux/Burgundy: A Vintage Rivalry 9780520933316

Table of contents :
CONTENTS
MAPS
PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION
1. Weighing the Evidence
2. Markets and Consumer
3. The Physical Environment
4. Incomparable Wines
Conclusion: Farewell to Parochialism
Notes
Bibliography
INDEX

Citation preview

BORDEAUX / BURGUNDY

The publisher gratefully ac~nowledges thegenerous contribution to t h k book provided by the Literature in Translation Endowment Fund of the Oiziuersity of California Press Foundation, which is jupported by a major giftfiom Joan PuleuslZy.

Publie'avec le concouu du Minisdrefian~ais charge'de la culture, Centre Nationul du Liu1.e. Published with the assistance of the French Ministry of Culture2 National Center for. the Book.

BORDEAUX 1 BURGUNDY A Vintage Rival~y

Jean-Robert Pitte Translated by M. B. DeBevoise

F UNII'ERSITY O F CALIFORNIA PRESS Bevkelej~

Los Angeles

London

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English transldtmn 0 2ooX b) T h e Regents o l t h c U n i \ r r ~ ~ t ? of California. Originally published a\ Rordeaux Rou,gopze Leipa.woni r z v a b 0 Ed~tionsHdchette Lltteraturei, 2005. L i b r q uf Congress Cataloging-ln-Publicat~onU x a Pittc, Jean-Robert [RordraudRourgogne. Enghshl RordeaudRurgundy : a \ ~ n t a g erivalry / Jcnn-Rohrrt Pltte ; translated by M R. DeBevoisr. p. cm. Translatrd from French.

Originally pubhchrd: Parls : ~ d i t i o n sHnchcttc Lltt6raturc5, 2005. Includea b~bliograph~cal rcferenccr and index. rsss: 978-0-520-24940-0 (cloth : alk. paper) I . Wme and wine making-France-H 28-29,35, 112-13, 200-zo1n15; production quantities, 103; vineyard land area, 103; yields, 59, 64,89, '03 Burgundy, 84; Catholic Church's influence in, 23-27,28,48-49, 162,202j n q ; climate, 41, 49, 51, 57,62-63, 73; drinking habits, 145-52; estate ownership and developtnent, 44-46, 47. 11820; gastronomy, 147-52,210n119; map, X ; regional culture and style, 46, 123-27, 158; soils, 62, 70-71, 74-75, 84; underdeveloped terroirs, 58-64 burgundy, as color name, 133 Burgundy bottles, 136, 138, 139-41, 2071181; labels, 141-42 Burgundy wines, 31.42; aging potential, 43-44, 184nio; with Bordelais food, 152; Rordelais on, 3-4, 6-8; classification, xiii-xiv, 5-6,7o, 193n86; folklore and metaphor, 153-56; foreign imitations, loo-101; prices, 43, 45,64,79, I03,119,198n150,199n154, 202-31129; quality variability, I 19, 120-22,2o4n39,zo4n40; service and drinking etiquette, 139-40, I 44; SUPposed health benefits, 41-43, 160. See al.to spezzfic estates and appellationj Burgundy wine trade, 129; ancient Gaul, 18-19,zo-23; customer contacts with growers, 153; dubious practices, 97-98, 101; eighteenth-century, 47; Hospices

234

/ Index

Burgundy wine trade (continued) de Beaune auction, 202-31129, 210I 1n127;medieval times, 23-27,28-29, 31,35, 112-13,200-201n1 j ; merchants, 47,96-98, 120,202-jnq; Paris as market, g,27,41-44,49,5 j56, 130, 131-32; supply limits, 103, 105, 119-20,122, 198n150,1ggn154, 203n32 cabernet franc, 107, 109-10, I 13-14161, 181n15;in Bordeaux blends, 50,77, "0; at Cheval BlancFigeac, 78, 11 I , 19on58 cabernet sauvignon, go, 107, 113-40, 161, 1811115, 1gonj8; characteristic qualities, 8-9, I 10- I I , 167; establishment and distribution in Bordeaux, 76-77, 109-1 I , 167; foreign cabernets, 173 Cadets de Bourgogne, 160 Cahors, 64-65 Ca'ix, 6j California wines and viticulture, 134, 173 Calvet, Jean, 10,99 camerouge, 108 Canada, Burgundy trade in, 122 Capdemourlin, Jean, I I I Carlu, Jean, 142 Carmenere, 1811115 Carmenet grapes, 20 cassis, 61, 187n9 Castellane, Boniface de, Mart-chal de France, 139 Cathiard, Daniel, 150 Cathiard, Florence, 150 Catholicism, 167, 168; Catholic families in Bordeaux, 39, 163, 164; Church influence in Bordeaux, 169; Church influence in Burgundy, 23-27,28,4849, 162, 169-72,202-p29 Cazes, Jean-Michel, I jo cellar operations, j2,53,91-94, 138 ct-sar, 109, 113, 201n21 Chablis. 49, 64, 74, 75, 122, 155, 189901149; estate sizes, I 18; foreign imitations, loo

Chalon, 18, 20 chalosse, 108 Chambertin, 55,70,82, 119 Chambolle-Musigny, 107 Champagne, 58-59,70, 143,183n60, 187n13,19jn120,198n144; bottles and bottling technology, 54-55, 136; Burgundy-Champagne crossinvestment, 179-8onzj; ChampagneBurgundy rivalry, 42,43, 179n22; fertilizer use, 190n50, 193n8j; foreign imitations, 100, 134; grape prices, 19911156; grape varieties, I 14, 2oonj; land prices, 104-5 Champlitte, 58 Champy, 47 chaptalization, 63, 86, 102, 153 chardonnay, 49,59,62-63,107-8, 113, 114, 134, 186n93; California, 173 Charles VII, 36 Charles \'III,29 Charleton, Walter, 99 Chartreux monks, 39 Chartrons merchants. See Bordeaux merchants Chassagne, I 13 Chassagne-Montrachet, 92 Chiteau Ausone, I I I , I 16, 132 Chsteau Baudare, 67 Chdteau Beaulieu, I 16 Chiteau Bouscasst-, 1881123 Chdteau Branaire, 21 jn187 Chiteau Brane-Mouton, 127, 149 Chdteau Canon-La-Gaffeligre, 202n28 Chiteau Carbonnieux, 4 Chiteau Carsin, 13j Chiteau Cheval-Blanc, 80, 104, I I I , 132, 179-801127; soils, 76,78, 19on58 Chdteau Climens, 80, 90 Chdteau Cordeillan-Bages, 150 Chdteau Cos d'Estournel, 13, I 16, 173, 2ozn26 Chlteau de Cleray, 141 Chiteau de Fargues, 128 Chdteau de Gironville, 139

Index /

Chbteau de Haute-Serre, 65 Chiteau de Malle, I 16, 2o2n26 Chiteau de Meursault, I 18 Chiteau de Pommard, 9, 10, I 18 Chiteau de T'alandraud, I 17 Chlteau Doisy-Daene, 4,80 Chiteau d'Yquem, 4,68,80, I I 5-16, 128, 132,202n26; harvesting, 88,92; Jefferson's order, 96; labels, 143; ownership, 104,143,179-8onz7; soils and drainage, 72, 76, 78, 1gon6o Chiteau Figeac, 90 Chiteau Giscours, 16, 102, 198n146 Chlteau Haut-Brion, 4,95, 132, 185n88, 1911168; bottle shape, 20.71182; Hegel's order, 95-96; history of, .+o,41,68; Locke's comments on, 82, 1831159, 191-921170; Parker on, 94 Chiteau Haut-Marbuzet, 80, 158-59 Ch2teau La Croix-de-Louis, 80 Chiteau Lafite-Rothschild, 41,68, I 15, I 16, 132; barrel aging, 186n97; grape varieties, go, 108, 109; soils, 72, 76 Chiteau Lagrange, 80, 90, I 16 Chlteau Lagrezette, 65 Chiteau La hlission Haut-Brion, go Chiteau La hlondotte, I 17,202n28 Chdtenu Langoa, 40 Chiteau Latour, 41,68, gy, 132,161, I 7980n27, 1851188, 1grn6j; barrel aging, 18hng7;estate size, I 16; grape ~arieties, 109; label design, 142; 1993 sale, 104; prices, 191n63; soils, 57, 72, 74,76 Chiteau La Tour Figeac, 84 Chateau Leoville-Lascases, 109, r78n1o ChSteau Le Pin, 77, 117 Chbteau l ' ~ v a n g i l e ,162, 2051154 Chiteau Lynch-Bages, 150 Chiteau Margaux, 68,72,80, 84, 90, 165, 1851188; estate, "5, "6, 162; grape varieties, 108, 109 Chateau Marojallia, I I 7 Chiteau Montus, 188nzj Chbteau Mouton Cadet, 81, rg1n6; Chiteau hlouton-Rothschild, 4- 5, 72,92,

127,132, 1911168; Burgundy served at, 3-4; estate size, I 16; labels, 142, 2o8n93; museum at, 161 ChSteauneuf-du-Pape, 28,98 Chiteau Olivier, 73, 189n39 Chiteau Pape-Climent, 169 Chiteau Pavie, 90 Chiteau Pitrus, 77, 79, 104. 116- 17, 132, 2o2n26; grape varieties, 77, I I I ; prices, 79, 116-17, 19On54; W ~ S57, , 72, 76 Ch2teau Reynon, 80 Chiteau Kieussec, go, 205n5.t Chriteau Rouget, I 79-8onz7 Chiteau Smith-Haut-Lafite, 1o,90, rcjo Chiteau Sociando-Mallet, 80 Chiteau Tirecul La GraviPre, 66 Chiteau Tron~pette,39 Chiteau Trotanoy, 76 Chiteau T'alandraud, 88 ChStelaillon, 32 Chauvet, Jules, 90 Chenier, . h d r C , I chenin, I 14 Chenhve, 74 Chevaliers du Tastevin. See Confririe des Chevaliers clu Taste\ in Chez La Mere Blanc, 150 Chile, Chilean \vines, 134, 173 chilling wine, 144,208-9n101 Chirac, Rernadette, 127 Chorey-IPs-Beaune, 73, 187117, 19091n61 Cistercian order, 24, 170 Citeaux (abbe?), 24-25,26,44,$, 170, 1841160 CIT'B (Conseil Interprofessionel d u \'in de Bordeaux), 16-1 7 Clarence, D u k e of, George Plantagenet, 130 clarity, clarification, 94, 138, 166. classifications, 58, 81; Bordeaux, 67, 7172,81,1851188, I 91n68; Burgundy, xiii-xiv, 5-6, 70, 193n86 Clement T: Pope, 169 Clermont-Tonnerre glassworks, 55

236 / I n d e x

Constantine I, 21 consumption patterns, xii-xiii, 131-33. See ulso markets and consumers Conti, Prince of (Louis Fransois de Bourbon), 45-46,49 Contour, Alfred, 147 Corton, 63,70, j j Corton-Charlemagne, 44,62,70 cot, 50,64, 108-9, 181n15 C6te Chalonnaise, 59,6o-61, I 18, 122 Cbte de Beaune, 4. See also Beaune wines Cbte de Nuits, 4, 87 Cbte d'Or: ancient viticulture, 20, 21; estate sizes and ownership, I 18, I 19; g ~ a n d sct.us mapped, 30; land prices, 104; medieval viticulture, 23-27,2829. 36; seventeenth-century quality, 44. See alio Burgundy entries; specific estate3 und appellations 48,76,78 CBte RBtie, 19, 131 Clos F l o r i d h e , 80 Cbtes de Castillon, 80, 81 Clos-Jouve, Henri, 155 CBtm de Couchois, 109 Clos Saint-Jacques, 44 CBtes de Frontonnais, 66-67 Clos Salomon, 61, I 18 CBres de Marmandais, 67 Cloux de TTosne.48 COtes-du-RhOne, 49, 50, 105 Club des Oenarques, 145 Coulee de Serrant, 85 Cluny (abbey), 24,26 Coulon, Christian, I 50 Cobbold, David, 173- 74 courbu, 67 Cohen, Leonard, 161 ' Courel. Marie-Fran~oise,1 5 3 , ~'"136 Colck family, 39 Courrian, Philippe, 134 Colette, 125, 126 Creignou, Michel, 141 colombard, 50 crktnants, 43 color, 48; Bordeaux, 10, I 10- I I . 179n25; fortifying for, 101; ~ i n o t 101, , 1 ~ 8 n 1 4 4 ; Croonembourg, Andre de, 45-46,74 Croonembourg, Philippe de, 45 winemaking techniques and, 91,92 Cruse f ~ m i l y39, , IOI Columella, 19-20 cryoextraction, 90, 194n97 Concha y Toro, 134 Cumi?res, 19811144 Condillac, ~ t i e n n eBonnot de, I 58 Curnonsky. See Sailland, Maurice Confrerie des Chevaliers d u Tastevin, customers. See consumption patterns; , 172; and Bordelaih 125, 142, I j ~160, markets and consumers confrkries, 10,178n1o; p t h e r i n g s of,

climate, 51,57; Bordeaux, 73, 18yn.p; Burgundy, 41.49,51, 57,62-63,73; exposure, 51,57,59; interventions to protect vineyards, 25, 73-74 Clos de Beze, 44,4 5, 4 7, 48-49. "9 Clos de Chenbve, 26 Clos de la Perrikre, 44 Clos de la I'iolette, 44 Clos des Lambrays, I 18 Clos de Tart, I 18 Clos de Vougeot, 45,68,78- 79, 131, 153- 54, 162, 1911162; in "Babette's Feast," 168; Bordelais confreries received at, 1781110; grape varieties, 109; history of, 25, 26,27,78- 79, 170, 202-31129; land prices, 104; Moillard anniversary party at, 126-27; ownership and parcel size, 6, 9,78, I 19; soils,

147-49,160,210-11n127,214n1j9 confrkries, 10, 151, 1781110 Conseil Interprofessionel d u \'in de Bordeaux (CII'B), 16- 17

Dahl, Roald, I 54 Daubert, Fransois, 67 Dauvissat, Reni, 64

Dauvissat, Vincent, 64 decanting, 138, 139-40 Defoe, Daniel, 40 Deltnas, Jean-Bernard, 9 5 Demossier, Marion, 126 Desaugiers, hIarc Antoine, 2 Desseauve, Thierry, 60, 61, 63,66 Desvignes, Louis-Claude, 63 Diderot, Denis, I 58 Dijon, 22, 24,36, 129. 135; Foire Gastronomique, 1 4 9 21011123; mayoral elections, 169-70, 171 Dinesen, Isak, 168 Diodorus Siculus, 143 Dion. Roger, 51,69, XI, 189n36, 2061160; on Bordeaux' commercial ~rivileges, 36-37; on Burgundy wines and viticulturr, z 8 , q - 3 0 , I 12-13,2oo-z01n15; on consumers' role, I I , 14, 18,49; on Gallo-Roman \-iticulture and trade, 19, 21,22-23, 180n10; on role ofterroir, I4 Domaine Daniel Largeot, 190-y1n61 Domaine d'Azenay, 60 Domaine de Durban, 141 Domaine de la Rornanee, 43,+-45, 7475 Domaine de la RomanCe-Conti, 142, 181-821120,1851189; label design, 14"; value, 199nI5j; vineyards, 118, 119; viticultural practices, 85, 87; winemaking techniques, 92,93, 194-95n109, 195n110.See also RomanCe-Conti Domaine de la L'ougerie, 109 Dornaine F a i v e l e ~ I, I 8, ~ g q 155 n Dornaine Guffens-Heynen, 60 Domaine Porcheron, 1 I j Domaine Rene Engel, 179-8onz7 Domaine William Fi.vre, I 79-8onz7 Dordogne, 36,65-66 Doughty, Richard, 66 Dourthe, Philippe, 134 Doutrelant, Pierre-Marie, 101-2, 127, 166 drinking habits, 144-52, 170: 20gnro8, 212n150; watering wine, 42, 143-44,

14j,184n6o,143, 208n98. See also wine service Drouhin, Joseph, 4, I 18 Drouhin, Robert, 4 Duboscq, Henri, I 58-59 Duboscq family, 80 I h b o u r d i e u , Denis, 80,9o Ducasse, Alain, 89, 126 Duffour-Dubergier, Lodi-Martin, 139 Dumay, Raymond, 70,165 Eleanor of Aquitaine, 32 Pleuage, 93. See also cellar operations Elizabeth I1 of Great Britain. I zz England: Bordeaux's links with, 32-35, 164; as Bordeaux market, 40, 130-31: decanting ritual, 138; Engllsh drinking habits, 1841166; English taste references, 110-1 I; exports to, 32, 33-34, j j , 3 5 ; wine exports to, 40, 55. See alj0 Britain Enjalbert, Henri, 51, 71, 77, 134; o n Bordeaux' "invention" of quulity, 2728,29,48-49; on Burgundy, 44,49; on role of terroir, 72 enrageat, 108 Erasmus, j 1 , 4 1 Espagne, hlichel, 163 estate bottling, 142 estate size and ownership: Bordeaux, 4041,47, 1 1 ~ - 1 6 ,119, 128, 165-66; Rurgundy, 44-46, 118-20; multiregional/ foreign ownership, ro, 133-35, 17980n27; politics and, 2031130 >

Fagon, Guy Crescent, 41 -43, 1791122 Faiveley, Georges, 125, 151 Fanet, Jacques, 107-8 Farnoux-Reynaud, Lucien, I 57 Ferrand, Daniel de, 38 Ferret, J.-A., 60 Feuillat, Michel, 82, 90 Ftvre, Willia~n,118

238 / Index

Germain, Philippe, 61-62 Figeac, I I I , 1qonj8 Germanur, Saint, 23-24 financial investment, 17- 18, 68, 1881124; Germany, German wines, j j , 55, 130, aging and, I I I , 167; equipment costs, 1~1,201n20 195111 14; land prices, 81, 104- j. 114; multiregional and foreign investments, Gevrey-Chambertin, 4,84 10, 133-35, 179-8on27. See alio estate Gillet, hlartino Stanislao, Father, 6- 7 size and ownership Ginestet, Bernard, 3 - 4 7 7 , 127 Girard, KenC, 83, 176 Fischler, Claude, 102 C" T I L ry family, 60-61 Flanders, 32,35,41, 130%200-2o1n1 j glass bottles. See bottles Flanders, Count of, 35 glasses, 140, 143-44, 183n58, 207-8n86, Flaubert, Gustave, 96-07 20911 108 folle, 108 fortification: with out-of-region wines. glassmaking technology, 53- 54, 5j, 207I , jo,97-99, TOO, 101-2, 119, ~ q h n ~ j j , 81186 2oon6; with spirits, j3 globalization, 83, 135-36, I 75 global warming, 62-63 fortified wines, demand for, 30, 41 Goblet, D o m Lambert, 170 Frank, Bernard, 3 FrEmyot. Andri., 44 gouais, 109 French government cellars, 132-33 g1.atzd.i C ~ U S artificial : soils and climate modifications, 73-76, 78; Bordeaux, FrPre, Albert, 104 Freund family, I 18 71-73; Burgundy, 27,29,jo, 3 1 , j o ; Lvith improbable physical environFronsac, I I I ments, 76-79; prices, 79, 1911162, fiontignane, 136.207n81,2o 71182. See a130 Bordeaux bottles 191n6j.See al.io classifications; quality; i p e c ~ f i rpropertie3 futures sales, 167 grape varieties, 49- jo, 67, 107-14, 1821133; Bordeaux, 20,28,50, 108-9, G k o n , Jules, 98, 1y6n124 109-12, 113-14, 167, 200n6; BurGadille, Rolande, 61. 69-71, 73,79,97, 28-29, .+g- jo, 107-8, 109, 200-2o1nr 5 g~~ncly. Gagey, Pierre-Henry, 121 I 12- 14,200n j;clonal vs. mass selecGaillac, 19, 67 tions. 85, 87-88; in finished wine, xiii; historic geography of, 108-14; lost/ gamay, 4y,61,62, 109, I 13, 18jn89; Beaujolais, 63; Philip the Bold's ban, 28,29, declining varieties, 108-9; mixedI I2 variety vineyards, 28,49-50, 108, 109, garage wines, 7 7 , 8 j , 114, 116-1 7, 2o2n27 1861193; soils and, 107-8, 109, 11 1-12. Garonne, 36 See ulso viticulture; jpectfic uat.ieties Gascon wines, 35 grapc yields. See yields gastronomy, 147-52 grapput, 108 Gaul, ancient: drinking habits, 143, 145; Graves, 3 j, 41,44, 76, 107, I 16 viticulture and wine trade, 18-23, 26 Gregory, Saint, 24 George, Pierre, 98 Gregory of Tours, 24 Gregory XI, Pope, 169 GCrard, A n t i r k , 125 Grirnod de la Reynikre, Balthazar, 140 GCrard, Gaston, 125, 149, 171 Gerlier, Pierre-Marie, Cardinal, I 72 Grivelet, ror Germain, Gilbert, 61-62 Grivot, F r a n ~ o i s e97, , 18hn9o

Index

gros mansenp, 67 Grover \ h e y a r d s , 135 Guibert, Aim6. 134,206-71178 Guichard, F r a n p i s , 163 Hansi, 142 harvest banquests, I jo Haute-SaAne. 58 Hautes-CAtes, j2,61-62, 74,86, 109, I 8711; haut pays wines, 34,35,36,38, 50,67 health and wine, 9,97, I 5.3, I 59-60, 21311165; Louis XI\', 41-43 Hegel, Georg Wilhelm Friedrich, 95-96 Hemmer, Jacques, roI Henry 11, 32 Hkrault, 134-3 j Hermitage, 19,49, 108, 131; blending with ("Hermitaging"), 50, 99, I 19, 200116 Hoffnlann, E. T. X., 161 Halt, ,hhck, 170 Hospices de Beaune, 102, I 18, 171.2023""9 H6tel-Dieu de Beaune, 26-27 Hudelot, Bernard, 61 -62 ice wines, 19qn97 icing wine, 144,2o8-9n101 ile de Re, 32 fie d30l6ron,32 I S A O . See Institut National des Appellations d'Origine Innocent T'III, Pope, 169 Institut National des Appellations d'Origine (INAO), 59,69,75, 100, I I I , 121,209n1o8; classifications and ratings, 58,h1,81, 117, 186-87n2 Irouliguy, 67 Italian wines, 102, 1861197 Jablot, 61 Jacqueson, 60-61 J a n s e n l ~ m154, , 163 Japan, 64,133,135,188n24

Jayer, Gilles, 61 -62 Jayer, Henrl, 88, zo4n3y Jefferuon, Thomas, 1-2, ;o-71,82,96, 20 71182 Jerez ( w n e ) , 41 Jlrom6e famdy, 62 Jobert, Claude, 47, 48 John, King of England (John Lackland), 32-33> 343 '5' Johnson, hTathanlel,53, gy Jol!, Nicolas, 85 Jomard, Claude, 44 Jones, h m a n d a , 13j J u l ~ a nPhlllppe, , 142 Juppk, Alam, 144-45, 156,213n153 Jurangon, 67 K x k 6 , Takeshl, I 55 Kauffmann, Jean-Paul, 5-6. 12'7. I30 Ka! ser, ~ t l e n n e61 , kir, 61, 171-72 Klr, F k l ~ x 125, , 149, 156. 171-72. 187n9 Krau, ~ d o u d r d171, , 172,216n2o4 Krtssman, Jean, 18 1-abaume, 47 labels, X, 141-43, 177114, 208n92, 2081193. See also rnislabeling Lacouture, Jean, 6 La Digoine, 61 Ladoix, 187n7 Lafon family, 169 La Grande Rue, 87,1931186 Laguiche, Philibert de, 4- j Lamarche, F r a n ~ o i s 87 , Lamarche, Henri. 1y8n86 Lamothe (estate manager at Chdteau Latour), 99, 109 land ownership. See estate size and ownership Langres, 2 ~ , 2 4 , 2 7 , 4 4 , 4 8 Languedoc-Roussillon: Bordeaux and Burgundy houses' presence in, 134-35, 206-71178; land prices, 105; wines, 97, 102, 122, 196n123

240 /

Lanversin, Jacques de, 15 Lapierre, Marcel, 63 Laplanche, Jean, 9- 10 Laroche, Michel, I 18, 134 La Rochelle, 32, 33-34 La Roman&, 45,74-75, 184-85" 7 6 See a1.w Domaine de la Romanee La T2che, 118,119,193n86 Latour, Louis, I 18, 134 Laurent-Perrier champagnes, 132, 198n144 Laurin, Marc, 3 I Lavirotte, 47 Lawton, Abraham, 39 Lebrun, Laurent, 73 lees. See sediment Leeuwen, Kees van, 78, yo Leflaive, I 73 Lt-glise, Max, 90 Lelong, Maurice, 6, 155 Leneuf, Noel, 90 LCognan, 73 L e Roy, Pierre, Baron de Boiseaumarie, 98 Les Riceys, j X , 19811144 Libournais, 3 5, 76-77, I I I literature: Burgundy in, 125, 126; poets on Bordeaux/Burgundy, I , 2,9, 153, 154-55, 199-200n2 Locke, John, 40,82. 18jnj9, 191-92n70 Loire, S5, 90, I I j- 14 Loiseau, LCon, 84 London taverns, Bordeaux wines in, 40, 68,1831158 Lormont, 24 Loubat, Mme. Edmond, 104 Louis Jadot, I 18,121 Louis VII, 32 Louis VIII, jq Louis XI, 36 Louis XI\: 41-42, 43. 44,46, 49. 1-14, 179n22 Louis )i\5 I31 Lur-Saluces, Louis-Amt-dt-e de, 96

Index

Lur-Saluces, Roman-Bertrand de, I yon6o Lur-Saluces fam~ly,128 Lurton, Franfols, 134 LT'hlH, 104, 143, 179-8onz7 Lvnch famdy, 39 L\on\, 1,22, 23,63, 149- 50 hlicon, hficonnais, 22, 59-60, 66, 107-8, 120, I 2 2 h l i c o n - \ X , 59 hladeirn, 41 Madiran, 67, 1881123 Magrez, Rernard, 203-4n35 hlagrez, Philippe, 203-41135 malbec, 50,64, 108-9, 1x0, 181n15 Malesan, 93-94,203-4n35 malolactic fermentation, 89 m m s i n , 108 manure, 29, 1yon5o,193n85 Marey, Claude, 47 hfarey-hlonge, 47 hlargaux, 41, 71, 102 hlargrethe I1 of Denmark, 65 marketing. See advertising and promotion markets and consumers, xil-xiii, 55-56, 130-36; Bordeaux, xii-xiii, 35,37,40, 55, 13"-33; bottle shapes and, 141; Chablis, 64; consumer knowledge and quality classifications, 29, 31; current consumption patterns, xii-xiii, 13113; eighteenth century, 47,49; grape 1-ariety taste preferences, 108, I 10-1 I , 167; international competition, 85, 105, I 17-18,1~1-22,198n49; medieval Burgundy, 2 7 , 3 1 , 1 1 2 1 3 ; overpriced wines and, 77-78; paramount importance of, xii-xiii, I I , 14.37-38; Paris as Burgundy market, g,27,41-44,49, 55-56, I ~ O131-32; , quality improvements and, 49, 81; vs. role ofterroii., 13-18; supply and demand, 103-4, 105. "7. I 19. See also wine trade

Marquis de Laguiche hlontrachet, 3-4 Martin, Benigne, 169-70 hlarx, Thierry, 150 hlas de Daumas Gassac, 134-3 j Masson, Paul, 134 hlauriac, Frangois, 6-7, 127, 159 Maury, E. A., 159-60 Max, Laurent, 134 Mazis-Chambertin, 202-3n29 Medoc, 68, 106-7, 191n68; estate sizes, 1 16; grape varieties, 67, 108, I 10-1 I , I 58; land prices, 104; Pijassou's work on, 69, 71-72,73; promotional cainpaigns, 16-17; soils, 71-72, 76; viticultural history, 3 j, 38,41,44. See a l ~ o specific properttes melon, 109, I 13 n ~ e l o nde Bourgogne, 67 Meneau, hlarc, 129 Mentzelopoulos frtmily, 128 merlot, 50, 107, 109-10, 113, 158, 161, 181111g; in the Libournais, 77, 78, 106, 111-12

hleursault, 62-63, 71,92, 129, 131, 169, 170 Meyer, Lorenz, 164 microappellations, Burgundy, xiii-xiv, 5-6,118-20 Mlllau, Christian, 173, 216111, z16nz Minton, ~ d o u a r d3-4 , mislabeling. 100-101, 196-9jn139. See a l w adulterated wines mitte errand, F r a n ~ o i s ,132 Moillard, 98, 126-27 Motnmesuin, I r 8 Monb:lzillac, 65-66 Mondavi, Robert, 134,206-711 78 Mondavi wines, I I , 173 mondeuse, 67,201n21 Monselet, Charles, 2, 15j Montaigne, hlichel de, 143-44, 145, 158 Montesquieu, Charles de Secondat, baron de, 158 Monthdie, 187117

Xlontpez,~t,H e n r ~de, 65 kiontrachet, 3-4, 119, 131, 132, 178n1 I; reputation and prlces, 48, 68, 71, 82 Morgon, 63, I 87-881116 morlllon, I 12 ~Morlzot,44 Moselle mines, I 4I h l o u e ~ rChrlst~an, , 77 Mouetx, Jean-P~erre,77 Moueix t a m ~ l \ 128. , 2o2n26 Moul~n-a-\'ent, 63 muacadelle, 50 ~Muscadet,67, I 13 m u s ~ cv, me m d , 160-61 h l u s x t , Alfred de, 167 Napa \'alley, I 34 Napoleon, 144 Nathnnicl Johnston et Fils, 53, 99 Naudin, Claire, 61-62 [email protected] Burgundy \vine trade: wine merchants nCgrette, 67 Nerval, Girard de, I I j-16,202n26 Netherlands, 130, 168; Dutch merchants, 38-39,tI. 53 Neublans, 20 Ye\v Zealand, i u j Koah grape, 21 I noble rot, 52. 88 hToblet,Andre, 154, 181-82n20. 19495"'09 N o d , Henri, 125 noirien, I 12 Nossiter, Jonathan, I r , 1gjnq4 Nuits-Saint-Georges, 44,46, 129 Nusign!, 78 O l l ~ e rLouls, , 150 Olney, R ~ c h ~ l r 45 tl, Oporto ("me), 41 Opus One, 134 Oregon, 108 Ostertag, Andrt., 9 j

242

/ Index

Oury, Girard, 171 ownership. See estate size and ownership Oyens, Daniel, 38.39 Pacherenc d u T'ic Bilh, 67 Pallaro, Denis, 80, 81 I'aris: Bordeaux in, 131-33; as Burgundy market, g,27,41-44,49, j 5-56, 130, 131-32; as Champagne market, 1791122; Universal Exposition of 185j, 1911168 Parker, Robert, 94, "7, 187-88n16, 194n108 I'assetoutgrains, 109 Patriarche, 97, 202-31129 Pauillac, 41 Paul& d e Meursault, 210-1 1n127 Paul Masson winery, 134 Pave des Chartrons, 39 Piguy, Charles, 167 Pepys, Samuel, j o Pirigord wines, 65-66 Perrin, Alain-Dominique, 65 Petain, Philippe, Marshal, 171 petit manseng, 67 petit verdot, 50, 109, 110, 1811115 Petrarch, 169 I'eynaud, mile, 89-90, 135 Philip Augustus of France, 33, I53 Philip the Bold, 15,26,28-29,35, 112, zoo-2o1n1 j Philip the Good, 29, I 1 2 phylloxera, 22,52,58,99, 181-8znzo physical effects of wine, I 52-60,21111134 physical environment: artificial soil and climate improvements, 73-76, 78, 86; grandx c m s with lesser t e r r o i r ~76, 79; grape varieties and, 107-8; role considered, 13-17,69-7~,81-82,83, 174; winetnaking as expression of terroir, 95, 117, 175, 195111 10. See also climate; soils; termirx; v i m de termii.; viticulture Pichon family, 41 Piiassou, RenC, 8,53,73,76,214n74; on

dubious practices in Bordeaux, 98-99; biews o n role ofterroir, 69,71- 72, 191-921170 Pinault, Franfois, 104,128,179-80n27 pinot, 5, 107, 108, 170; characteristics, 101, I 13, 140, 153, 198n144; climate change and, 62; grapes, 26; history of, in Burgundy, 15,28-z9,4y, 112-13, zoo-2011115; mixed with other grapes, 109, I 12; potential outside the CAte d'Or, j9,60-61,63 pinot blanc, 113 pinot gris, 109, 113 Pirotre, Jean-Claude, 171 Pitters, William, 93 Pivot, Bernard, 6 Plinr the Elder, 19-20 poets on Bordeaux/Burgundy, I , 2,9,

Latour), 99 Pornerol. 76, 106, I I 1-12, I 16, 199-200112 Pomerol, Charles, 78 Pornmard, 71,jq, 106, 169, 199-200nz Pomrnard-Ruglens, 70 Pompadour, Xlme. de, 4 j , 46 Ponchon, Raoul, 9, 100-101,152 Pontac, Arnaud de, 40,82, 163 t e 40,68 Pontac, F r ~ n p ~ a - A u g u sde, Pontac family, 40,41 Pontack's Head tavern, 40,68 popes, ~ a p a court, l 27,28,31,104. 130, port, I I I . 139 Porte de Bourgogne, 8 Portuguese wines, I I I Pouilly-Fuissi, 60 Pouilly-sur-Loire, 14I Poulet, 47 Poupon, Pierre, 3 Prats. Bruno, 13 prices. See wine prices Prieur, hiartin, 62-63 Probus, Xlarcus A4urelius,23

Index

Protestantism, 163-64, 166, 168, 170; Protestant influence in Bordeaux, 39, 128, 162-66, 167 Puisais, Jacques, 83, go, 106- 7 Puligny, I 13 Puligny-Montrachet, 92, 107 Quai des Chartrons, 39, 40. See also Bordeaux merchants quality: aging suitability, 43-44, 47-49, 55,184n70; Burgundy, 27-29,43-44, 120-22, zoqnjq; customers' role in, 49, 81; eighteenth-century developments, 41,47-.+9,52-53; international competition rind, 85, 121-22; invention of grands t e w o i r ~68-73; , prices and, 81, 116-17,120,121-22, 199n1j6; role of physical environment considered, 1317,hg-72,81-82,83; underdeveloped Hurgundian t e w o i u , 58-64; underdeveloped southwestern tewoils, 64-67; vine age and, 85-86, 88; viticultural practices and, 84-89; winemaking's role, 79-83; yields and, 59,61,6.+, 88-89 Rauzan family, 41 Raveneau, Bernard, 64 Raveneau, Jean-hlarie, 64 Ravenacroft, Georgc, 1 8 j n j 8 real estate prices. See land prices regional cultural differences, 46, 123-30, I 58, 161-62; gastronomy and drinking habits, 141-52; religious differences, 162- 72 RCjalot, Michel, I 14-1 5, 165-66, 214n74, 214n17j,z14-1gn181, 21 jn191 religion, 162- 72; Catholic Church's influence in Burgundy, 23-27> 28, 48-49, 162, 169-72,202-3n29; Protestant influence in Bordeaux, 39,128, 162-66,167 restaurants, 40, 149-51, 183n58; Parisian cellars and wine lists, 131, 132

/

243

Rhineland, Gallo-Roman trade with, 22 Rhine wines, 35, zo1nzo RibCreau-Gayon, Jean, 89-90 Ricard, Claude, 127 Richelieu, Louis Francpis Arrnand d u Plessis, duc de, 13. 131, 143 Ridder, Jean de, 38,39 riesling, zolnzo Rioja, 134, 186n97 Robert Mondavi winery, I I , I 73 Rodier, Camille, 125, 151, 180114 Rolland, Michel, 90, 135, 1931194 Rolland, Romain, 125 R o m a n k C o n t i , 103, I 54, 155, I 56, 1781111, 193n86; characterizations of, 154, I 55, 156; history of, 45-46; prices, 198n150,199n154; size and ownership, I 18,119,190n57.See alio Domaine de la Romance-Conti Rome, ancient: Gallo-Roman wine trade and viticulture, 18-zj,z6 romorantin, I 14 Rothschild, Edmond de, 161-62 Rothschild, ~ r i de, c I 15,134, 19911155, 205n54 Rothschild, Philippe de, 3-4, 8, 121, 134, 142, 161 Rothachild, Philippine de, 127, 134, 149, '99"'55 Rothschild family, 128, 162, 205n54 Rouard family, 62 Roudik, Philippe, 98-99, 100, 1891140, zo1n25 Roupnel, Gaston, 23, 99-100, 125, 145, 153-54,180"4 Royal Oake Taverne, 40, 183n58 Rully, 59, 60-61 Sabatier, Robert, 98 Sailland, Maurice (dit Curnonsky), 98, '59 , Saint-Emilion, 76, I I 1-12, 1911168 Saint-EstPphe, 156

I 16, I

17, 129,

Index

s a i n t - ~ v r e m o n dCharles , de, 40, 18jn6o Saint-Julien, 156 Saintonge, 32 Saint-Vivant (abbey), 26,45 Salimbene de Adam, 31, I 841160 Santa Rita cabernet, 173 Santenots d u Milieu, 86 Sa6ne-et-Loire: ancient viticulture, 20 Sa6ne valley, 22 Saussignac, 66 Sauternes, 5,66, I 16,131, 141,191n68 sauvignon, 50,108-9, I I 3, 181n15 Savage, Jacques, jy scandals, 101, 102, 19811146 Schwartz, Ylan, 161 Schyler family, 39 sediment, 92, 136, 166. See aljo clarity Segur family, 41 s6m1llon, 50, I 14 Senard famdy, 169 Serres, Ollwer de, 14 sex, Burgundies compared to, 153, 154 S G A M Premler C r u , 167 35, Shakespeare, W ~ l l ~ a m shippmg, bottle technology and, 54-55, '37-38 Soclet6 des Alcools d u Quebec, 122 sods, 51,577, 83-85; Bordeaux, 71-72,74, 76,78, 109, 111, 19on58, Burgundy, 62, 70- 71~74-75,84; Dordogne, 65; fertilizer use, 29,86, 19on50, 1yjn84, 1931185; grape varieties and, 107-8, 109, 11 1-12; imported soils and artificial drainage, 73-76> 78, 1yon6o Sollers, Philippe, 7-8 Spanish wines, 41, 134, 173,186ny7 sparkling wines, 43,54-55 Steiner, Rudolf, 84 Strabo, 19 sugar: chaptalization, 63, 86, 102, 153 sweet wines, 38,41,53,66; Barsac and I, Sauternes, 5,66,8o, I I ~ , I ~141, 1y1n68 Swift, Jonathan, 40 sylvaner, 67

Syndlcat des Grands Crus Class& de Medoc, yy yYrah,2oon5,201n21 Tain-I'Hern~itage,yy, 108 Tainturier, Abbe (Fran~ois),52 tannat, 67, 188n23 tannins, 91, q j , 94, I 1 0 Tari family, 102, 128 tartaric acid, 86 taste preferences, 168; age and, 159; Bordeaux and Burgundy folklore and, 153-59; varietal preferences, 108, 110-13 tastings: glasses for, 144, 209n108; Millau's 1987 Paris tasting, 173,216n1, 2 I 6n2 T e n ~ p l ed u HP, 163, 164 Terrail, Claude, 132 t e r r o i ~emergence/de\~elopment ~: of grands terroirlc, g1,68-72; potential for improvement, 71-72,82-83; role considered, 13-17,69-72,81-82, 83, 174: unde~levelopedB u r p n d i a n tewoii?, 58-64; underdeveloped southwestern terroirs, 64-67; wines as expression of, xiii, I I , 95, I 17, 175, 195"' 1 0 . See also physical environment; oins de terroir Thevenet, Jean, 6o,66 Thienpont, Jacques, I 17 Thomas, Denis, 126, 134 toka!, 1 9 6 - ~ 7 n 1 j g Torres Gran Coronas Reserva, 173 Tour d3Argent,132 Trapet, Jean-Louis, 84 Treviri, 23 Trier, 23 Troy, Jean-Franpis de, 143 Turgot, Anne Robert Jacques, baron de I'Aulne, 37 ugni blanc, 50 ullage, 94 UNESCO World Herttage Sites, 129

Index

United States: French minegrowers in, 133-34; label censorship, 2081193; as market, 64, 121, 133 Tratican, Burgundian ties with, 169 \'eilletet, Pierre, I 15-16, zoznz6 vergy, 25 Yerhaegue brothers, 65 Tkrry-Chanson, 4 7 T'erzenay, 59 T'euillot, Louis, 145 TrCzelay, 191n68 L'ignes, Jean-Louis, 133-34 T'igouroux. Georges, 65 T'illaine, Aubert de, 61,75, 84, 1851189, 195n110 T'illaine, PamCla de, 61 T'illars-Fontaine, 26, h2 Villa Selongey, 20 T'illik-Morgon, 63 T'incenot, Henri, 154 Vincent, Gilbert, 120-21 vine age, 85-86,88 T'inexpo, 124, 129 vinification. See winemaking v i m de tewoir., xiii, I I. See also teiroiri v i m technologiyue~,xiii, 11,go-91 vintages: Burgundy's microvintagcs, xiii-xiv; Burgundy vintage variability, I 19, 120-22,204n39,2oln40 viticulture, 83-89; ancient Gaul, 19-23; clonal selections, 85; complantation, 26; cultivation :lnd weeding, 84-85,86; drainage, 73,74-75,7678, 1gon6o; rightcenth-century, 40-46,47; fcrtilizer use, 29,86,19on50, 1931184,1931185; frost protection, 74, 1891142; harvesting, 48-49,52,77,87-88, I 17; mass selection, 85, 87-88; medieval Bordeaux, 34-35,112; medieval Burgundy, 23zj,28-29, I 12; orpnichiodynaniic, 84; phylloxera and, 181-821120; planting between rows, 86; pro\ lnlng (layer~ng), 21-22,181-8znzo; prunmg and hunch thinning, 86-88; and viticul-

tural ~ractices,84-89; sulfur use, 53; tractor use, 84, 195111 14; trial-and-error in, 51; weeding, 86. See a1.w grape varieties; soils; yields Vizix allobrogicu, I 9 Vitir basilica (bituiica) , 20 T'olnay, 5,42,74,86, 184n6j T'oltaire, 158 tural practices, 61, 87, 88, 89 Wallonia, 3 I , zo6nho Waltz, Jean-Jacques (dit Hansi), 142 uatrring wine, 42, 143-++, 145, 1841160,143,208ng8 \vhite Bordeaux, y, 38, 107, 191n68; grape varieties, 50, 113, 1 14. See also Sauternes white Burgundies, 5, 8, 52,92, 107-8, 132; crkmants, 43; grape varieties, 49, 107-8, 113, I 14; underexploited teri'ozij, 62-63, 64. See alxo speczfic appellattonj Wijs, Guillaume, 38 Wilkinson, Jeffrey, zo4nqo Willemszoon, Jean de Rary, 39 MTilliamPitters, 2o3-4n35 wincmaking, y, 89-95; acidification, 86, 98, 102; Burgundy merchants as winemakers, 97; cellar operations, 52, 53, n , 86, 91-94, 138; ~ h a ~ t a l i z a t i o63, 102, 153; dubious practices, 95-102; as expression of teiroir, xiii, I I , 95, I I 7, 175, 195n110; fermentation additions and techniques, 90-93; globalization of winemaking expertise, 135-36; hygiene, 52- 53; medieval times, 27, I 12; multiple c u v i e j , 84, 1851184; new Bordeaux styles, I I 7- 18; oenological research and training, 89-90, 135; quality and, 79-83; role considered, 15,95; seventeenth- to nineteenthcentury improvements, 47-jy,52-53; technology In, X I I II, I , 89-91, 1 7 4 See also blending

246

/ Index

Burgundies, 139-40; decanting, 138, wine merchants, I , 96-97,1781111; 139-40; glasses, 140, 143-44, 18jnj8, ancient Gaul, 21; establishment of 207-81186, zogn108; serving temperaforeign merchants, 3 j,38-41,53. tures, 144,208-9n1o1. See also drinkSee also Bordeaux merchants; wine ing habits trade; ~pecz$c$rrns wine trade: ancient Gaul, 18-19; dubious wine museums, 214n170 practices, 95-102; foreign merchants' wine prices, 34,62, 190-g1n61, 191n62, role, 37,38-41, 53; futures sales, 167; 191n63; aging and, 167,215n187; Bordeaux, 79,103-4,116-17,167,202n27, wine culture and, 124. See also Bordeaux wine trade; Burgundy wine 21~ 1 8 7Burgundy, ; 43,45,64,79, trade; markets and consumers 103, r 19, 198nr50,1ggn154,202-3nzy; women: as pruners, 87; as wine international competition and, 85, 121-22; overpriced wines, 77- 78; metaphor, 153-54,155,157,158-59 price-quality relationship, 49,53,59, yields, 103, I 17, 187n4; green harvesting, 68,81, 116-17, 120, 121-22,199n156; 87-88; pruning and, 86-8 7; quality price supports/subsidies, 120-21; and, 59,61,64,88-89; vine age and, vintage variability and, 2041140 86; wine production quantities, 103, wine scandals, 101, 102, 198n146 114, 198n148, 198n149 wine service: bottle shapes and, 138-40;

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