Altai Himalaya

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ALTAI -HIMALAYA

ALTAI-

HIMALAYA A

By

Travel Diary

NICHOLAS ROERICH

WITH TWENTY REPRODUCTIONS FROM PAINTINGS

FREDERICK NEW YORK

A.

STOKES COMPANY MCMXXIX

Copyright, 1929, by

CORONA MUNDI, INTERNATIONAL ART CENTER, INC. All Rights Reserved

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

——

PUBLISHER’S Zuloaga, visiting the Roerich

NOTE

Museum

New

in

York, in an

interview for the press, said: “In the creative art of Roerich,

which

see that

have always

I

Russia some force

cannot impart what great

artist,

coming

is

is

it

felt.

to the

—but

I

Here

is

world

—

realize

its

I

evidence that from I

cannot measure,

I

approach: Roerich

great worker; his creation expresses proud and lofty

sentiments.” Boris Grigorief has said: “His

Before

world. great

artist,

and

me I

able to arouse the

name

is

on the

of the entire

lips

the magazine, Studio, dedicated to our

is

am proud when human soul.”

think that Roerich

I

so

is

Whitman, valuing the interwork of Roerich, wrote: “We who

In the Foreword (1925), Serge national significance of the last

search the paths of international understanding and the structure of universal peace,

must look upon Roerich

forerunner of

new world

this

Ivan Narodny,

in

a

of

recent

all

as the apostle

and

nations.”

“Prophet of Universal

article,

Beauty,” said: “Leonardo da Vinci was at the same time a painter,

an architect and an engineer. he

said of Roerich

not only a towering painter, but a profound philosopher

is

and

The same can be

a distinguished scientist.”

An

extensive literature has been dedicated to Nicholas Roerich.

Information of his

monographs doni

life

and works up

of A. Rostislavov (1918); A.

(1915); N. Selivanova

(1916);

S.

to 1916,

Makovsky

(1923); in

(1906-16);

S.

may

be had in the

Mantl (1910); A. Guiarticles of A. Benois

Yaremitch

(1916);

L.

Andreyef (1918); A. Remisoff (1916); M. Voloshin, G. Bottomley, S.

Gorodetzky,

W.

Baltrushaitis,

[v]

I.

Lazarevsky,

I.

Takeuchi,

V. Pica, L. Vauxelles, Arsene Alexandre, A. Koiransky, B. O. Dymoff, M. Fokine, Denis Roche,

Grigorief, Phillips,

Leo Feigenberg, O. M.

M. Martin and

Sayler, C.

Sir

Claude

Brinton, V. Ritter,

others.

Special issues of magazines were dedicated to Roerich’s art

by

Mir

lss\ustva;

lss\ustvo;

Decoratif, Paris; Studio,

Vessi;

Zolotoye

Runo;

L’Art

New

York;

London; The Touchstone,

London; Gazette des Beaux Arts, Paris; Volne Smeri, Prague; Dilo, Prague; Art and Archceology, Washington; and Colour,

many

others.

Information about his various foreign works

many

New

series

of editions: Studio,

is

strewn in

London; International Studio,

York; Emporium, Milan; Les Arts

et les Artistes, Paris;

Volne Smeri and Dilo, Prague; Deutsche Kunst, Darmstadt; The

many

Review, Calcutta; and

other Hindu, Japanese and Ameri-

can magazines.

The

New

large

York

of 1923-25.

monograph, “Himalaya,” published by Brentano’s,

(1926), gives 100 reproductions of Roerich’s paintings

The monograph

published by Corona Mundi, Inter-

national Art Center, in 1923, also “Nicholas Roerich,” published

by Editions de

la

Revue du Vrai

et

du Beau,

as well as Roerich’s

works “Adamant” (1923) and “Paths of Blessing” (1925), quaint us with his consciousness in

For four and a half

all its

years, Roerich in

encompassed Central Asia.

phases.

an unrepeatable

circle,

Starting in the Himalayas so beloved

of him, he courageously brought his obstacles again to the

ac-

same place

Expedition through

all

in the foothills of these highest

mountains of the world.

The

entire series of paintings

orable journey

Expedition will is

which he made on

that

mem-

and the published works of the members of the reflect its

valuable results.

Now

the opportunity

offered to read Roerich’s travel notes, those “thoughts

upon

horseback and in the tent,” induced by the contemplation of lofty

[vi]

PUBLISHER’S NOTE mountains and boundless deserts wrapped in the inviolable secrecy of the East.

What

is

book?

this

work

because such a

still

is

to be written.

No.

geographer or an ethnologist? Asia.

In

Obviously not,

a scientific treatise?

Is it

It

the diary of a

Is it is

Symphony

the

Some such phrase would characterize it best. conclusion it may not be amiss to quote a fragment

of Roerich’s letters sent International Art

from

Center, in

Little

of one

Corona Mundi,

Tibet, to in

1925,

of

which he

indicates

his

program and purpose: “Friends,

it

would have been

the entire journey in

all

its

far easier for

me

have

to

fairy-tale of ‘fantasy,’

set

which

down colors

every peak and every desert space with unprecedented truth.

But then some will be incredulous, ness does not believe in the sun.

Facts are needed.

already rising?

down fragments

setting

the East.

now

its

.

.

down

setting

sleeps in dark-

possible that the sun

it

am

who

writing only

of the thoughts as they

But even in

related.

East.

As

am

I

Is I

he

as

distances

facts,

and

tales,

facts.

now as

the Sunrise comes

I

live

is

am in

they are

from the

.”

news from the Roerich American Expedition,

after

lengthy wanderings in Tibet, came this telegram on

May

the

first

24, 1928:

“Roerich

American

artistic

and

of paintings to

after

many

Thus ended big Central

reached Himalayas.

Many

Expedition

scientific results.

New

safely reached you.

Hope

York.

Many

“Expedition started in

hardships

Asiatic Expedition.

Already sent several last

has

series

sending from Mongolia

observations regarding Buddhism.

1924 from Sikhim through Punjab,

Kashmir, Ladak, Karakorum, Khotan, Kashgar, Karashahr, Urumchi,

Irtysh, Altai

Mountains, Oyrot region, Mongolia, Central

Gobi, Kansu, Tsaidam, Tibet. [vii]

PUBLISHER’S NOTE “Peaceful American flag encircled Central Asia.

Everywhere

warmly greeted except Khotan and Lhasa Governments. Further movement Expedition from Khotan assisted by British Consul at

On

Kashgar. robbers. spite of

Tibetan territory have been attacked by armed

Superiority of our firearms prevented bloodshed.

Tibetan passports Expedition forcibly stopped by Tibetan

authorities

on Oct.

6,

two days north of Nagchu. With inhuman

cruelty Expedition has been detained for five

of

In

summer

15,000 feet in

tents

months

at altitude

amidst severe cold about 40

degrees below Centigrade.

“Expedition suffered from want of fuel and fodder. stay in Tibet five

During

men, Mongols, Buriats and Tibetans died and

By order of authorities all Lhasa Government and Calcutta

ninety caravan animals perished. letters

and wires addressed

Forbidden to speak to passing cara-

British authorities seized.

vans.

to

Forbidden to buy foodstuffs from population.

and medicines came

to

an end.

The

presence of three

Money

women

in

caravan and medical certificate about heart weakness not taken into consideration. tion

started

Expedition

With

southward. safe.

severe Winter.

great difficulties

on March

All nine European

4,

members

Expediof the

Courageously bore hardships of exceptionally Greetings.”

[viii]

CONTENTS PAGE

Publisher’s

Note

v

Introduction by Claude Bragdon

xiii

PART I.

India (1924)

1

SlKHIM (1924)

31

III.

Pir-Panzal (1925)

69

IV.

Ladak (1925)

83

II.

V. Lamayuru-Hemis (1925) VI. VII. VIII.

IX.

100

Leh— Karakorum— Khotan Khotan

Takla Makan

—Karashahr

—Dzungaria

Karashahr

XII.

125

160

(1925-1926)

(1926)

(1926)

X. Altai (1926) XI.

(1925)

193

255

334

Mongolia (1926-1927)

351

Tibet (1927-1928)

3 66

Glossary

395

[lx]

ILLUSTRATIONS Reproductions from Paintings by Nicholas Roerich in the Roerich

Museum New Yor ,

/^

Portrait of Nicholas Roerich by Sviatoslaw Roerich

.

Frontispiece FACING PAGE

Commands of Rigden

2

Japo

Tibetan Lama

26

Sanctuaries and Citadels

58

Confucius the Just

88

(

Banners of the East Series )

Lamayuru Monastery

(

Leh, Ladak

Series )

Karakorum

( Maitreya

Lada \ )

( Maitreya

Series )

120

Pass

Signs of Maitreya

104

140 ( Maitreya

168

Series )

Guardian of the Entrance

190

Sacred Caves

236

( Maitreya

Series )

Woman

264

Mongolian Lama

298

Tibetan

Oirot, Messenger of the

White Burkhan

(

Banners of the East

Series )

336

Tenpei-Jal-Tsin Baishin, City of the Ja-Lama in the Central Gobi

356

Tsam

366

in

Mongolia

Sharugen Kham, Tibet

376

Chatu Gompa on the Brahmaputra

378

Chungtu Royal Monastery Near Saskya

380

Shekar Dzong (Near Shigatse)

390

[xi]

—

INTRODUCTION On May

1923, Nicholas Roerich left

8,

America

for India,

and

he has been wandering about in remote, dangerous and seldom“Altai-Himalaya”

visited parts of Asia ever since.

is

the record

of his mission, just as his series of pictures “Tibetan Paths,”

“Banners of the East,” “His Country,” are records in terms of

But “Altai-Himalaya,” though penned on horseback and

paint.

in the tent,

and

under conditions the most

much

as

some

of the earth’s

medium

more than

Roerich works, or in whatever he artist,

it

is

be on

Now,

a character its

word: what do

I

to

is

for Roerich an

tion,

because

it

most

mean by

form

ill

man.

compounded

Though

in this connection?

it

if I

failed to

to avoid

I

yet I

have in mind?

justify

it,

of view

intelligible or

Without attempting

therefore,

I

shall

in the

same sense

And

to elucidate, explain or

from which one may regard Roerich life

life.

to

even plausible what

simply say that there

powers which preside over the

a ques-

mentioning what seems

how

make

should per-

answer such

the very raison d’etre of his journey, his art, his possible to

and

of such unusual elements

me

is it

sincere

ears either a meaningless or a hateful

service

would be

expressing, there

uncomprehended.

esoteric side

“esoteric”

is

For in whatever

but the embodied intelligence

the man, the whole character of the

as to

a literal transcription

most magnificent scenery.

shines forth not only the

simple,

much more,

richer than the ordinary diary of travel, as his

paintings of the Himalayas are of

difficult, is as

as

is

a tenable point

an envoy of those

and evolution of humanity

that gardeners preside over a garden: that he

journeys into desolate and forbidden lands for the fulfillment of a mission the purpose of

which [

xiii ]

will increasingly reveal

itself.

INTRODUCTION Whether one

believes this or not,

it

would be hard

ambassador of good will from the West

better

accomplishment and

culture, Roerich

is

to the East, for

summit

the reason that although he represents the

imagine a

to

European

of

deeply Oriental in his

temperament, sympathies and point of view.

One

has only to look at

imagine

— the

to see

—

or, if

reincarnated Eastern sage.

Ladak

India, in Tibet, in nesses

him

of Siberia he

(Little Tibet),

you must have

Certain

and

it

is

it so,

that in

in the white fast-

was received with an honor, accorded a

confidence and even an affection, quite different from the ordi-

nary attitude of these peoples toward strangers, which has the reputation of being covertly or openly hostile.

Roerich and his

caravan encountered frustration and

too,

measure, but

it

to the spiritual

tered

was

is

interesting to note

hostility,

how

exactly in proportion

unique quality, and their recog-

nition of the unprecedented nature of his mission

among them.

This book was written “in the saddle,” more

about

in full

development of the various peoples he encoun-

their response to his

figuratively.

and

There

is

a certain vividness,

literally

than

immediacy, authenticity

for this reason, giving the reader a sense of actual par-

it

ticipation perhaps impossible to be imparted in

any other way,

together with intimate glimpses of the workings of the author’s

mind

in

the presence of sublime scenery,

new human

types,

strange manners and customs, and under the assaults of hardship,

danger, and the stresses and strains of exploration in almost un-

trodden lands. personality, of

Roerich

is

a

man

of original, strong and definite

which everything he does bears the stamp.

expressions are themselves revealing, eloquent

—not

attempting to describe.

only of him-

The

self,

but of the thing he

and

three- word sentences, the subjects without predicates

is

have been suffered to remain have so

much

just as

one-, two-

xiv

]

—they

he wrote them because they

the merit of the sketch, the jotting, put [

His

down

in

INTRODUCTION the

moment

of that “first fine careless rapture”

premeditated form of art

This

a

is

and even

is

likely to leak

book whose surface

for concealing

from

which

in a

more

away. sake of

exists for the

its

depth,

but the most penetrating, what

all

But in order

that depth contains, as surfaces sometimes do.

to

give you every possible advantage, and for your further enlight-

enment upon Roerich’s antecedent accomplishments and life, I shall devote the remainder of this essay to what I have learned and know of Roerich, and what In the history of the fine

from time

to

I

think of him.

arts, certain

individuals have appeared

time whose work has a unique, profound and indeed

them from their conclassify them in any known

which

a mystical quality

differentiates

making it impossible to category or to ally them with any school, because they resemble themselves only and one another, like some spaceless and timetemporaries,

—

less

order of

Such were Leonardo, Rembrandt,

initiates.

Diirer,

Blake, and, in other fields, Beethoven and Balzac; such also, in our

own

times and in a lesser way, were Rodin, Ryder and

work shows

Burne-Jones, for their eerie beauty

which

the sign

is

flashes of that

daemonic and

whereby they may be

identified as

belonging to that mythical mystic brotherhood. Roerich, in his self as a

life,

member

the time of his

in his character

of this fraternity.

first

—Europe,

auras of diverse peoples,

seeds of their

of

For

thirty-five years

—he

America, Asia

scattering

him-

—since

has been going

making pilgrimages

and always and everywhere

some

in his art reveals

exhibition in Russia

and down the world

of beauty,

and

—absorbing

to

up the

remote places,

wisdom, planting seeds

which have sprung up, flowered, and

scattered

own.

In Russia, as secretary of the Society for the Encouragement of Arts,

and

later as director of the school of that society,

he was

an important agent in organizing and coordinating that native,

new and powerful impulse which [xv]

in painting, in music, in the

:

INTRODUCTION drama and in the dance later spread throughout the civilized world for it is not too much to say that everything which now goes by the name of modernism had Russia for

nificant in this connection that Stanislavsky

aid in the

Moscow Art

the Sacre

dn Printemps,

mise-en-scene,

and

It is sig-

enlisted Roerich’s

Theatre, that Stravinsky, dedicated to for

that

which Roerich designed the

Andriev, Gorky, Mestrovic,

who

Tagore and others throughout the world newness, have paid

cradle.

its

him

the tribute of their

him

original

Zuloaga,

represent the

homage and

their

praise.

Coming

to

America with an exhibition

of his paintings, at

the invitation of the Chicago Art Institute, Roerich immediately

took steps to resume and repeat the work he had inaugurated in Russia, that of uniting the arts,

beauty, for he believed, as

many

that beauty

and

is

the universal

national animosities

may

and thus uniting others are

To

this

with the help of friends, a school in which

were

to

Arts,

and

be taught, under the

The

which usually

beset

home on

filled in:

of

all

this

of the fine arts

Intervicissi-

character in a

image of which would be

—but

it

Riverside Drive,

by Roerich

and

end he founded,

Corona Mundi, an

enterprises

rush-light in a wind-swept darkness

vast outlines, sketched

racial

school passed through those

civilization such as ours, the best

to-day a permanent

to believe,

of Master Institute of United

a year later he established

national Art Center.

tudes

title

coming whereby

true solvent

be dissolved.

men through

survived,

New

at this time,

a

and has

York.

Other

have not been

they include Cor Ardens, an affiliation of the creators

of beauty everywhere throughout the world, and Alatas, an international,

non-commercial publishing association for the

inter-

change and dissemination of new and constructive ideas through the I

mediumship

of the “art preservative.”

mention these enterprises

to

show

vision, to indicate his function as a

[xvi]

the vast sweep of Roerich’s

prophet and a pioneer, clearly

INTRODUCTION foreseeing and quietly planning a better order in a world in the grip of

its

so recent terrible nightmare, not yet risen

a bed drenched with blood

Should

and stained by

come

his prophecies

true,

still

from

tears.

and should

his

dreams of

binding humanity into a brotherhood through beauty materialize, it is

for this that

he will doubtless be most honored and longest

remembered, but

known

painter of hauntingly

a

as

and on a

are of all kinds

he

to us, his contemporaries,

is

naturally best

These

beautiful pictures.

vast variety of subjects, but in general

they represent nature strained through a mystical consciousness

—the

light that

is

on

sea

and land

translated,

by some potent

magic, into the light that never was on sea or land. the idealist without affronting the realist.

satisfies

Hindu to

novelist

know how

and

poet,

remarked

to a friend that

Mukerji, the if

he wanted

the Himalayas impressed a beholder, he should

see Roerich’s paintings of

them, because along with a true render-

ing of their form and color, something of their

municated

Roerich

was com-

spirit

too.

After a brief sojourn in America he forsook the ordered and easy

life

of

cities,

difficulties of

and unappalled by the

such a quest, he

set

rigors,

dangers and

out for Asia, “trailing clouds of

glory” as he went, so to speak, in the shape of paintings of the

Grand Canyon, the Santa Fe country, the Pacific, India and the Far East. The culmination of his life work, up to the present, is

in those

Path,”

groups of paintings named by

“Himalaya,” and

him “The Tibetan

“Banners of the East.”

These are

freighted with mystical meanings which, even though unintelligible to all save the initiated, yet act

consciousness as does perfume the emotions. cryptic

It is

upon the

upon

senses, or as

its

music upon

not that Roerich attempts to be deliberately

—on the contrary, a great deal of his

naive in

the unenlightened

simplicity— but the average

idea of esotericism, that

it

symbolism

mind

is

so resents the very

closes itself to a certain extent.

[xvii

]

almost

INTRODUCTION Roerich’s symbolism, as

I

say, requires

no

glossary, possessing

An

the characteristics of directness and universality.

method

of his general

what he names

seen in that painting of

is

example

“The Miracle.” It represents a titanic Grand Canyon, a world primeval, stark,

the Messiah series, entitled, valley, not unlike the

Prominent in the

rock-strewn, without visible flora or fauna.

foreground

On

road.

and over

a natural bridge,

is

the near side of the bridge are a

bridge passes a

this

few human

prostrate before the miracle of a great radiance

figures,

coming from

behind the bridge, the aura of some supernatural presence whose figure

is

not yet

Here

visible.

symbology

a simple, natural

is

none of them

subject perhaps to different interpretations, but

Considered objectively, the picture

is

simply a

dramatization of that expectancy of a messiah which

is

so general

contradictory.

nowadays, and his presence

influence

it

holds forth the healing promise, that though

not seen, his aura brightens the darkness, his

is

already

is

denuded

subjectivity, the

the soul after

trials

Considered from the standpoint of

felt.

valley

might symbolize the condition of

and purgations; the road, the “small old

path” to freedom and perfection; the bridge, that stage on that

path where the transit

is

between the lower and the

effected

higher consciousness; the prostrate figures, those “qualities” which

must be redeemed and “carried of the

felt

approach of the “golden person” bringing release

from bondage through

the shining of the inward light.

But the great merit of

this

picture, freighted

as

it

is

with

class), lies in its

beauty of

and composition. The mystic and metaphysician

in Roerich

meaning (and color

over,” awe-struck at the miracle

that of others of

never submerge the

artist,

its

with the

himself the use of symbols he

still

is

his pictures are not sermons, but songs.

the fact that

it

conveys a message,

as a delight to the visual sense, [

when he

result that

is

lyrical

and not

]

literary:

“The Miracle,” not a morality so

abounding in

xviii

permits

spatial

despite

much

rhythms

INTRODUCTION and color harmonies

The

old yellow Chinese rug. indelible impression

and

as fine

is

nearest to the throne of

“story”

but the final

and

work

is

there,

this

is

as

it

priceless

should be,

talents the creative artist

is

God.

Roerich’s archaeological pictures

pioneer I

some

one of beauty, and

for in the hierarchy of trades

Of

subtle as those of

I

shall not speak,

nor of his

in the theatre, important as that has been, because

feel that these things,

and dominated

his

which

at

consciousness

important to him than what

I

one time absorbed

his

mind

have since become far

shall call his mystical quest.

has the feeling that in everything he does he

is

less

One

seeking the hidden

Word, in point of fact. hunter, armed not with a gun,

truth, the unrevealed beauty, the Lost

Like some mighty indefatigable

but with his pen and brushes, he stalks his quarry across oceans, rivers,

he

is

mountains, though knowing

seeking

is

in himself.

Both in

all

the while that the thing

his writing

and

in his paint-

draw beauty which

ing he permits us to participate in this adventure, and thus nearer to that truth which is

is

beauty,

and

that

truth.

Claude Bragdon

1

1

ALTAI -HIMALAYA

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Part

I

INDIA (1924) Siani glides by.

Here

the “Twelve Apostles”

—fantastic

the gateway to Mecca.

toward the center.

To

are the Wells of little

The

Here is

are

Jeddah,

the steamer are praying

behind the pink sands,

the right the boundaries of

ancient cornice.

Here

islands.

The Moslems on

East, where,

Abraham.

Nubia

hidden their

is

are lying like

hulks of wrecked vessels cleave to the

an

reefs.

The Red Sea can be merciless as can the Arabian sandstorms. Not in vain does the fiery finger of the Stromboli Volcano threaten and warn by night. But now in the winter the Red Sea is

blue, not hot,

and the dolphins leap

fairylike design lie the

The

Arabian Bays

mad

—Korya

Japanese do not lose an opportunity to

One

This nation does not waste time.

and sharply

their field-glasses

practical are their questions:

move

merriment.

In a

Morya.

visit

the Pyramids.

how quickly And how persistently

should see

about.

Nothing

the vacant touring of tired Europe.

come

in

superfluous.

“Well,

now

This

finally

is

we

not will

to an understanding,” says the Japanese in a businesslike

way without any

sentimentality.

And may

this

businesslike

attitude be the guarantee of cooperation!

In Cairo in the mosque

sat a

boy of seven or eight and chant-

ingly read the lines of the Koran.

One

could not pass by without

noticing his penetrating striving.

And

in the walls of that

mosque was boldly imbedded

the cannon-ball of Napoleon.

[1]

same

And

that

same conqueror

of empires broke the

image of the Great

Sphinx.

But

if

the sphinx of Egypt

mutilated, the sphinx of Asia

is

remains safeguarded by the great heart of Asia are preserved and

Ancient Ceylon are the palaces

are

met by

peddler.

—the

Lanka

Greek with

Italian chauffeur.

treasures of the

hour has come.

Ramayana. In

strange.

It is

The policeman

the Swiss Consul.

A

its

of the

and pagodas?

The

deserts.

is

Dutch

post-cards.

But where

Colombo we

A

Irish.

French

An

tea-peddlers.

But where are the Singhalese? Have they

all

emigrated to Europe?

The the are

Buddha and Maitreya reveal themselves in Kelaniya Temple near Colombo. The powerful images first

aspects of

guarded

in the

Hinayana prides

dusk of the temple.

itself

Mahayana on the refinement and purity of The great restored stupa near the temple re-

before many-varied its

philosophy.

minds one of the ancient foundation of all,

But, after

this place.

only in fragments do Colombo and Ceylon recall the ancient

Lanka

of

Hanuman, Rama, Ravana and

Buddhism, Ceylon

is

an important

other giants.

site.

Many

And

for

temples and

palaces guard the fragments of one of the best periods of the

Teaching.

Outside of the ruins which are known, numerous

unsuspected treasures are buried under the roots of powerful

That which has remained above the soil gives an idea of the past splendor of the former mighty city. You do not

jungles.

need to search for the

They proclaim

places.

exploration can only give results

measure.

One must approach

The

•

is

it

carried

such ruins fully

Ceylon

palace alone has 900 chambers. •

if

•

•

themselves.

is

on

But

in a broad

fortified, as

an important

one

site.

•

public baths near the bitter-sweet mountain, Lavinia, do

not suggest the domain of ancient giants.

[2]

Slender palms shame-

INDIA facedly

bend down

Like skeletons

the spray of the tide.

to

stand the fragments of Anuradhapura; consider that Anurad-

hapura

is

And Adam’s Peak is not enticing. Anuradhapura one may judge how powerful

not entirely explored.

By the remains

of

was Borobodur in

Java. •

And

•

•

again, ceaselessly, are gliding by the faces of our fellow

of the Cairo Pyramids,

whom we

with

travelers: the Japanese,

Is

it

Crevices of dessicated

And

south.

A

really India?

wept over the remains

which have passed from

become the curio-museum

to

•

•

of a greedy guide.

Meager

thin shore line.

So does India hide

soil.

a valiant history

its

trees.

little

face

from the

the black Dravidians as yet do not remind us of the

Vedas and Mahabharata. Multicolored All the

life, all

is

Madura with

the remains of Dravidian strata.

the nerve of the exchange,

was near the temple.

In the passages of the temple are the bazaar, the court, the

sermon, the elephant

reciter of the

who wanders

processions.

The

in

Ramayana, the

it.

But the

;

ingenious stone carving of the temple

much

Sarma, the

colors.

city council

did not listen to

the temple according to their that so

and the sacred

freedom and the camels of the

with the present-day crude over

gossip,

own

of fine understanding

is

is

him and is

gone and has

colored

sorrows

artist,

Sarma

plan.

religious

colored

saddened

as yet

been

replaced only by indifference.

He

warns us not to go

far in our

elements of the population city of 1,000,000.

Sarma

Europe and America. of is

may

be hostile.

attire

And

because some

yet

Madura

is

a

inquires about the condition of artists in

He

is

Europe and America can incomprehensible to

European

him

genuinely surprised that the live

by the labor of their hands.

that art can provide a [

3

artists

]

means of

It

liveli-

ALTAI-HIMALAYA With them,

hood.

the occupation of artist

There are almost no

one.

is

the most profitless

Sarma

collectors.

himself,

tall,

white garments, with sad, calm speech, awaits something

and knows

possibility of a

such things happen in in

and he

meeting with Tagore.

met George

not meet!

We

in

meeting him in

But in India

in Boston.

itself

York;

we

did

already was preparing for his tour in China.

There were many curious occurrences. to find Tagore.

New

could not go to Bolpur and Tagore could not

He

be in Calcutta.

Strangely

In London, the poet found us.

life.

America we succeeded

also

better,

the burden of the present.

all

There was no

Then

in

We

thought that in

would be known on every

In Calcutta

we

his native city his

We

corner.

took a

tried

name

motor and

requested to be taken straight to the poet Tagore, and in vain

we

rode for three hours through the

to

the

Then

Maharajah Tagore.

First

city.

we were taken

hundred policemen and

a

peddlers and passing Babus sent us into the most varied alleys. Finally six volunteer guides were hanging on our motor.

And

we ourselves, in this bushy manner, finally remembered the name of Dwarka nath Tagore Street where the house of Tagore

so

was

situated.

It is

tation

said that

when Tagore

from Calcutta came

received the

Nobel

prize, a

depu-

him, but the poet severely asked

to

them: “Where were you before?

I

remain the same person,

and the prize has not added anything

to

me.”

Greetings to

Tagore!

We

met

the relations of our friend Tagore

Tagore, brother of Rabindranath,

artist

Gogonendranath Tagore, nephew

head of the Bengal School.

of the poet, also an

retary of the Bengal Society of Artists.

modernists.

A

splendid

artist is [

Kumar 4

]

—Abanindranath

Now

artist, sec-

he imitates the

Haidar, present Director

INDIA

Much

artist.

resolution

all

Thorny

also

is

of

Vivekananda.

is

a

young

scientist, a biologist

He

began

In this

house above the laboratory

Ramakrishna, Vivekananda

carries into life the principles of

proclaimed his evocation to action and

vividly the portraits of

can explain

difficult? is

Why

his wife.

We

striving.

sat in

the path of

knowledge and beauty

is

the

does humanity accept with such hesitation

predestined?

to see that in India the

new

beloved leaders.

memorial hearth. Greetings!

this

It is

therefore the greater joy, to see in

India, the signs of an ascent of

legions of

his

Ramakrishna and

one with their purity and

why

name

top chamber he formulates his thoughts,

little

complete silence near

and

This young man, pupil of the

group.

this

fearlessly

faces impress

that

that

Here, before

his laboratory in the

little

to the relics of

Vivekananda,

who

One remembers

all

this

condition of scientists and

surrounded by the things which belonged to

most

it

a struggling

In his peaceful

closest pupil of

Who

is

scientists.

and other teachers of

Both

Why

Hindu

room dedicated

knowledge.

India!

artists of

of the

way

the

pupil of Sir Jagadis Bose.

this master,

Hindu

of the

life

precarious?

an example, in

is

the

is

needed in order not to abandon

countries of the world the

artists is so

us

is

Greetings to the

thorny path. in

Hard

Lucknow.

the School in

of

number

knowledge and of schools

is

art.

It is

joyful

increasing and that

enlightened workers for science and beauty are

ready to serve in the victory of evolution.

two monuments to Dakshineswar, the Temple where

In Calcutta, not far behind the

Ramakrishna.

On

one shore,

long lived Ramakrishna.

Almost

the Mission of Ramakrishna, the self,

city,

are

opposite, across the river,

mausoleum

of the teacher him-

of his wife, of Vivekananda, and a collection of [

5

]

is

many mem-

ALTAI-HIMALAYA orable objects.

Hindu is

Vivekananda dreamt

University.

that here should be a real

Vivekananda took care of

a great peace here

and

with

is

it

oneself so near to Calcutta with

difficulty that

one

realizes

its

bazaars

the terror of

all

There

this place.

and confusion.

We

met

Sister Christine,

Her

kananda.

now,

again to the old ness

is

work was broken up by

useful

after the lapse of site.

almost the only living pupil of Vive-

And

the war.

many years, Sister Christine has returned The people are changed. The conscious-

consumed with

And

local problems.

with the

Sister Christine to find contact

not easy for

is

it

new waves

of

Hindu

life.

On

the

memorable day of Ramakrishna,

as

many

as half a

million of his admirers gather. •

•

From

•

•

•

the purest to the most hideous: In special streets of

Bombay, behind

bars,

the

sit

women

merchandise which clings close to the hands, in their desecration.

calls,

And

a

prostitutes.

In this living

bars, in these outstretched

contained the whole terror of bodily

is

Hindu Sadhu

passes

through with his burning

incense in order to purify the spot!

When we

entered the Chartered

Bank

of India

door there came to meet us the sacred cow; and

amusing was

this correlation of •

The one

•

to shoot

them.

how

of the

strikingly

bank and sacred cow! •

•

•

The Maharajah

tigers roar in Jaipur.

—out

has forbidden any

In Golta Pass two tribes of

monkeys

are at

The guide arranges a battle for a most reasonable Nowadays all battles may be arranged thus easily!

war.

•

The cobras.

•

•

•

fee.

•

Fakirs are seated, “charming” the old, half-living toothless

The

pitiful

Hatha-yogi

is

whirling in the bazaar, making

[

6

]

INDIA the most gymnastic contortions for the purification of his

“The

horses, but to

do

this

make

to

offers

spiritualist”

the

carriage

spirit.

move without

is

necessary “that there should not be

is

a fantastic

it

one cloud in the sky.”

And

along with

of old Rajputana their balconies

this

—Amber where the princesses looked down from

upon

the tournaments of their suitors

gate, every little door, astonishes

Near here

beauty.

and romantic fragment

is

one by the correlations of

in

any fantasy

—only

is

Jaipur with

charm Agra

of an

—rare

fairylike astrological observatory

its

Hindu Moslem

unspoiled

chips of a departed culture.

city.

And

the “play”

And

can accumulate such unexpected creations.

life

its

the penetrating and fantastic Golta Pass

which could not be imagined of

where every

;

here also

and with the

Fatehpur-Sikri, the frescoes of

Ajanta are already unsafe. •

•

•

•

•

All the remains of the constructions of

seeming sadness. Here the great Unifier of best visions so misunderstood Sikri,

he conversed with

who had

attained his level.

knowledge.

Here he

by

his

a veil of

country buried his

his contemporaries.

In Fatehpur-

wise Birbal, and with the few

his

Here he

built the

temple of universal

few friends and foresaw that the

lost his

would not be

welfare of the State created by him,

And Agra and

Akbar have

preserved.

Fatehpur-Sikri are full of a kind of limitless

Akbar knew how the well-being which he bestowed on his people would be pillaged. Perhaps he already knew how the last emperor of India would live to the middle of the ninesorrow.

teenth century, peddling the furniture of his palace and chipping

from the walls of

his palace in •

With Benares

all still

Delhi the fragments of mosaics. •

•

•

•

the dustiness gathered by time, the architecture of retains

its

charm.

All the mixture of form of the

[7l

ALTAI-HIMALAYA old Hindu, Dravidian and Moslem, can give

One can

the unprejudiced architect.

easily

new

solutions to

imagine a combina-

tion of the many-storied Tibetan structure, with the comforts of

One can draw

an American sky-scraper.

palaces of Benares to the palaces of Venice private dwelling.

One can

I

Hindu complained

said to

idea,

but

to

me

him, “If there are no let

and

to a

livable

develop the style of American pueblos,

with the newest understanding,

A

from the

a parallel

as

is

being done in Santa Fe.

of the lack of

architects, let

him proceed from out

of the

an

Hindu artist

harmony

consciousness combined with the character of

its

architects.

develop an of the folk

One One

nature.”

cannot defile the whole world with a uniform building.

make

cannot

visualize

Comanches and Apaches

propriateness

On

out of Java a Swedish Stockzund.

like a chalice, offers his entire

man, cupping

possessions to the rising

In the evening she

may

fireflies

of the

woman’s

the dark watery surface.

soul, prayer-inspired, travel

minded

of other things.

priests of the

these

long upon

We

spirit

golden temples.

We

who

send

recall those

Yogis

into space their thoughts, thus constructing the

Not

And

Beholding these offerings of the

one can even forget the stout

tion.

again be

sending upon the stream of the sacred river a garland

of lights as prayers for the welfare of her children.

are

his

quickly telling her rhythms performs her morn-

ing Pranayama on the shore. there,

Ap-

must be maintained.

A woman

sun.

one cannot

in the houses of Boston.

the shores of the Ganges, a gray-bearded

palms

And

coming

evolu-

the usual priests these, but active hermits; they are

bringing our thought near to the energy which will be revealed

by

scientists in the

very near future.

Gigantic stupas of Buddhism fence.

The same Kurgans

—burial mounds surrounded by a

of [

all

8

]

centuries

and

nations.

The

INDIA Kurgans of Upsala

way

the

Novgorod; the Steppe Kurgans of Scythians,

to

rounded by stones; tions

Sweden; Russian Kurgans of Volhov on

in

all tell

the legends of the

which have been described by the

much

Everywhere,

Hence

of Benares

same solemn cremaArabian

skillful

traveler,

Everywhere, the same purifying conflagrations.

Ibn Fadlan.

wood.

sur-

the

incense, rose water

smoke from

Burning Ghats

the bodies in the

And

not turbid.

is

and fragrant sandalcremation

in Tibet, also,

Regard the gentle child games of the Orient complicated rhythms of the chants and

— and

listen to the

music.

soft

used.

is

There

are

not evident the profanities of the West.

The Maharajah

of

Mysore

is

awakened with

special songs

—

songs of beginning and of end.

Madura

In

in a

crowded

He

of the “sacred images.” this

Thus

knowledge.

alley,

is

man models the forms old man — with him dies

an old

the last

is

dying the

past.

So

approaching the

is

future.

On

the fields are standing, in circles, the figures of white

Whence

ceramic horses.

them, the subtle bodies of

through

the nights.

women

it is

are

said

made

the Valkyries

of

go galloping

erect in flight.

a goat’s leap to the gathering of witches

the flight

to

Upon

Backs, which are doubled during the day

in household tasks, at night are

say

mounts?

are these resplendent

—the

virgins

?

of the

Shall one

No, rather air

—the

is it

leap

toward a wondrous future.

Each day

a

woman’s hand molds

of the house into a special design.

the house

all

is

well,

This

and there [

9

the sand at the entrance

is

]

is

the symbol that within

neither sickness, death nor

ALTAI-HIMALAYA woman

of the

be no happiness in the house then the hand

If there

discord.

becomes

A

stilled.

seeming shield of beauty

placed before the house by the hand of the

And

lent hour.

little girls

woman

•

•

He

dom.

An

inexplicable

custom of India.

lives in this

Vivekananda

benevo-

in schools early are being taught a

variety of designs for the signs of happiness.

beauty

at the

is

called the

•

•

women

•

of India to

work and

also asked the so-called Christians, “If

to free-

you so love

why do you not follow it?” So spoke Ramakrishna who passed through the substance of

the teaching of Jesus the pupil of all

teachings and learned through

“not to deny.”

life

kananda was not merely an industrious “Swami”

How

lion-like rings in his letters. •

“Buddhism ing,” says the

is

•

is

—something

needed now!

•

•

the most scientific and most cooperative teach-

Hindu

truly great savant life

•

he

Vive-

biologist, Bose.

who found

his

It is

way

how

a joy to hear

this

to the mysteries of plant

speaks about the Vedanta, Mahabharata, and about the poetry

Only

of the legends of the Himalaya. the merited place for

And accompanying

all

true

knowledge can find

existing things.

the voice of the savant, simple

and com-

prehensive, the silvery tones of an electric apparatus tinkle out the pulse of the

life

of the plants, reopening pages of the world’s

knowledge, long since Bose’s

mother

in her

her son an education.

dom,”

says:

ditions.

a

“Here

See

good storm

sealed.

how

day sold

The

all

her jewels in order to give

scientist, in

are the children of the rich in luxurious con-

they become puffed and baggy.

to bring

them back

yaseff’s

all

the manifestations of

review of his works.

They need

to healthy normalcy.”

ing the pulse of the plant world, the

somely

demonstrating “His king-

life.

One

[10]

scientist

He

Know-

approaches whole-

values highly Timir-

of Bose’s best books

was

INDIA written on the heights of the Punjab in Mayavati

Bose and Tagore

—noble images of India! powerful Trimurti of Elephanta,

frescoes of Ajanta, the

and the gigantic stupa

And

this

in Sarnath, all speak of other ancient times.

former beauty

silhouette of a

the shrine

Vivekananda departed too soon.

of Vivekananda.

The

— in

also

glimmers in the

woman who carries

fine

her eternal water

and slender

—water which

feeds the hearth.

And the

the well, as in biblical times, remains the central spot of

whole population.

In the very backyard, in a tiny bed of meager flowers, rests

homely image

a small

family of last

Hindu

The him its

of Ganeshi, elephant of happiness.

coolies living in the shanty offers to

Not much happiness has

grains of rice.

this

image brought

them.

to

Against the evidence of such refined values

Ramakrishna, Rabindranath Tagore,

become reconciled the temples.

now

to

which

to that

Here

is

seen in

one cannot

constitutes the contents of

—Lingam

Up

in Elephanta.

in the sanctuaries of this cult are seen the traces of fresh

offerings. vessel of

From

the ancient

wisdom we know

knowledge” and we know the

from times immemorial of

now

are

Sir Jagadis Bose,

still

a phallic cult

as

this

the basis of this worship

that “Linga

scientific

is

explanation

wise distribution of energy. is

forgotten and

it

the

But

has degraded

into superstition.

Another ugly us,

was

spectacle!

led a white

little

In a golden temple of Benares, before goat.

She was led into the sanctuary.

There evidently she was approved of because frantically protesting, she

in a

little

was hurriedly dragged before

us.

while, In a

minute, she was stretched out on the threshold of the temple

[ii]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA and the broad knife cut

went

sacrificial

appearance

is

The

them

such animals

teaching which

as quite different.

undecorative and they cannot guard the

is

As long

beauty of the symbols of knowledge. castes

And

animals.

sanctioned the priests, evidently pictured their

of the goat

do not partake of any

the population evidently brings each day.

Even

difficult to believe

The meat

for food, because prfests

meat except that of offered

was

It

had taken place!

that a sacred action

evidently

her head.

off

as the rule of

not comprehended properly the country cannot develop.

During our founded on

stay

this

we

read of several

difficult

family dramas

ground of an evidently surviving prejudice.

At

the same time, the Vedanta and Advaita clearly establish the

Some of the most cosmogonic parts of Vedas are written by women, and now in India has arrived epoch of the woman. Greetings to the women of India! principle of unity.

In spite of a superabundance of tourists they seem to

America very of

tourists

little.

life

are called

can understand

this.

and never enters into

of the country.

a real

the

know

The whole mass

quickly flows through the sheet-iron channels

tourist companies,

with the

One

the

and

of

active contact

In the north of India, Americans

“nomads” because the agencies give

to these hurrying,

breathless groups a special character, completely outside of the

people’s understanding.

Out

of the

windows

of the car glide by

those original producers of nation.

But

who

Ramakrishna or female, of

all

utilities

cares for these

says: “In

Brahmin

Atman

little villages,

and the makers of the

primary sources?

there

is

no

distinction of

male

or Kshatriya and the like.”

Ramakrishna executed the work sonally, that there

huddled

were no

of the sweeper to show, per-

distinctions.

[12]

INDIA In December,

we want

now

regarded with astonishment: “But

Whereas the only time

feared.

is

We

go into the Himalayas.

to

November to February. Already From May to August only rises.

there

for the

March

in

Himalayas

is

from

the curtain of fog

and for

rarely

Snow

snow!”

is

are

brief periods

can one see the entire glimmering range of snow; and truly such

grandeur

is

nowhere

paralleled.

when you are approaching the Grand Canyon of Ariwhen you approach the foothills of the Himalayas you go

Just as

zona,

through the most uninteresting landscape.

And

dawn

only for a moment, at

you

giants appear before

the

as

And

And

messengers.

first

they are hidden in the curly jungles.

do the white

in Siliguri,

And

again tea plantations.

again barrack-like structures and factories.

And

times does a typical habitation appear and conceal vision

a

as

attacks of tigers tea

itself

There

is

a

again

about the cases of

Belgian mis-

from Kurseong.

becomes

cave-ins

tales

only some-

There are mountains of

and leopards.

with the mark, Orange Pekoe.

sionary It

There are

from another world.

again

cool.

from the

Crowds last

of small coolies are repairing the

monsoon.

In the frosty air one cannot

summer monsoon downpour

even imagine the pressure of the

from which

all

nature becomes moldy.

There are few

birds.

Eagles are seen.

The view

Mountains are densely covered. disappoints you. to find

Is it

of Darjeeling

itself

necessary to seek the Himalayas in order

merely a corner of Switzerland?

The

colorful types of

the bazaar are not apparent at once, and the regular barracks

and bungalows already

We aging.

strike one’s eye.

search for a house.

We

The

first

are assured there are [

13

]

information

no good

is

houses.

not encour-

Some

are

ALTAI-HIMALAYA shown the

to us, lacking outlook

wooden country houses and fences. This We want something, beyond there before the

—

not suitable.

is

image of play

we

its

the Himalayas,

all

are persistent.

And

house

Lama

just

is

go

does not

city orchestra

will find nothing there!”

But

and we find an excellent

ourselves,

calmness and solitude, and the entire chain of

Himalayas before the Dalai

We

where the

“You

conventional tunes.

house.

in

of

streets

little

and grounds, some immersed

And

us.

still

during his long

another surprise: Just here lived flight

from Lhasa.

For

us, this

what 'is needed.

Not on one

we awakened by

occasion only were

and the rhythmic beats around the house.

who, bowing

to the

ground many

times,

the chanting

These are the lamas

marched around our

dwelling.

Somewhere the people are babbling that in devil which appears as a black pig. A haunted But we are not afraid of

told.

village,

devils,

and

house

this

house, as

in the

lives a

we were

neighboring

many black pigs which resemble monkeys who came into the bathroom

Bhutia Basti, there are

Did not our dear and ate the peas and flowers around

boars.

the house play the part of

the devil?

There

is

the tiresome need of having

reason always the same: castes. does not clean the path. caste,

his

he

hand.

sweeper.

He

is

a blacksmith

It

many

servants

reaches absurdity.

Why?

It

The

the

porter

appears that according to

and has no right

broom into and become a

to take a

Otherwise he will become defiled

He

—and

decides the problem in a very original fashion.

begins to brush around the garden with five fingers, creep-

ing along the ground. caste

and hints

The groom

at his descent

him from mysterious

from

is

from the high Kshatriya

a king,

which did not hinder

operations with the horse feed.

in the kitchen religious meetings are arranged.

chairman of the

local

Ary a Samaj, [14]

persistently

Sometimes

And

the cook,

persuades his

Buddhists are not limited by caste and

something.

listeners to

are free to perform

all

and easy

are quick to understand

There are many of

Kham

They work

kinds of work.

tales

to adapt themselves.

about Tibetans, the warriorlike tribe

and about the wild Goloks,

who

They bring one back again even

“dogs.”

are merry,

fast,

themselves wild

call

to the times of Sieg-

They cement their brotherly oaths by mixing and drinking brotherly blood. They never part with their weapons.

fried:

“His Country” begins to unfold, East”

begun.

is

“Banners of the

as the series

In June, after the

first

rains, all the

One

begins to be covered with white spots of mold.

up the place considerably

come

in order that the

tempera

has to heat

mold should dry and

off.

“His Country.” of the

Mahatmas.

In Sikhim,

To

was one of the Ashrams

itself,

Sikhim, Mahatmas came on mountain

Their physical presence communicates a solemn im-

horses.

Of course now the Ashram has been from Sikhim. Of course now the Mahatmas have

portance to these parts. transferred left

But they were here, and therefore the

Sikhim.

of the chain

glimmer

Accompanied by majestic Rinpoche

still

more

pupils,

beautifully.

artists

from Chumbi.

and

a

He

.

.

Shambhala stitious tical

comes the

sculptor,

walks throughout the All

In a long talk, the lama points out that

be attained only through Shambhala. as a

myth.

peaks

.

whole country erecting new images of Maitreya. hastened.

silver

For those

who

legendary invention, this indication

But there are also others,

fortified

is

is

all

being

may

imagine a super-

by more prac-

knowledge.

The

noble Atisha, the Pillar of the teaching, walked from

India to Tibet for the purification of the teaching.

[i5l

The

teacher

—

Altai- Himalaya The

passed by the retreat of Milarepa. conscious

passing procession and

of the

wishing to

forces of the Pillar of the teaching, appeared sitting

The noble Atisha

of a blade of grass. of the hermit,

upon the end

came dov/n from the

equal, but

And when

while under thee,

it

is

the teachers

me

slightly bent,

The noble Atisha our knowledge; but I come from the

has retained

smiled: “Verily, equal

also rose

“Our knowledge

said:

the blade of grass under

is

the

on the end

and

porte-chaise

of the next blade of grass.

why

test

seeing this manifestation

exchanged brotherly greetings, Milarepa is

became

great hermit

tension?”

its

country where the Blessed Tathagata himself lived and taught,

and

this consciousness raises

What magnets

me.”

are laid in India?

Indescribable

round dance near Madras, with

of the children’s

and miniature Krishna, Lei and Kupava.

The

is

its

the

charm

tiny

Gopis

best images are

strewn in the unrealized wealth.

India

how

knows

the all-penetrating

power of the magnet.

about miracles in India, friends of the west will ask?

will say that

we have

not seen “miracles,” but

And

We

we have encoun-

tered every manifestation of psychic energy.

If

one wants to

speak about the manifestations of a “higher miraculous” power then

it

useless to

is

altogether.

talk

But to comprehend the

materially-attained development of psycho-physical energy, then

India gives even

now

the

most remarkable manifestations.

The

celebrated “evil eye” of the east exists, and the people die sub-

missively at the ordained date,

by a

act

it

the

command

any form

still

more

of will

exists in

festations are

if

they are not able to counter-

greatly trained will.

from

The

transmission of

a distance does exist.

highly complicated correlations.

Suggestion in

Some mani-

being performed consciously and a greater part

subconsciously through natural ability and beneficial atmospheric

[16]

INDIA And

conditions.

which

that

unusual for

is

that very thing for the cultured

European,

a civilized

Hindu, or rather

Asiatic, will be

an almost daily material occurrence. •

•

Observe

how

•

a

•

remarkable are the physiological comparisons

Hindus between cosmic manifestations and the human organism. The womb, the navel, the phallus and the heart, traced by the

all

these long since have been included in the fine system of

development of the universal

cell.

Only

the people into a discussion of

this.

Again

fidence

influence

sons

practiced.

is

may come and

necessary that con-

Inquisition people were

But

voking the teraphim.

is

established at the dining table.

which cannot be

During the period of

difficult to entice

it is

in India

And now,

even

in the

burned for

now

means of

this

Malabar Hills dark per-

because of an unfulfilled request will try

“You

to touch you, while they say to you: “Sahib will be sick” or If the

organism

weak, the

command

will live only ten days.”

fatigued or

the will

if

can remedy

this

counteraction

The and

is

at that

moment

fulfilled,

is

only by a counter-suggestion.

is less

in-

is

and one

But often the

powerful or not applied in time.

cases related about the “evil eye” provide a remarkable,

as yet

nologists.

untouched, problem for the psychiatrists and crimi-

The person who

on the appointed day begins of resistance

and

to lose his life

energy and his power

finally the apparatus stops.

do not apply suggestion to poison the

has received this stroke of the will,

in

time are

The

doctors

at loss for a cure,

paralyzed nervous system

still

who

and begin

more.

Incipient

anaemia, a stroke of the heart or spleen, or gall bladder, nervous

spasms and choking are often the

visible effects of the

of the invading will.

to ascertain just

of the attack

on the

It is difficult

particular organs occurs;

imagine that the most feeble organ succumbs to

how the one may

a

17

]

nature rather

nervous attack.

In a small and more crude manner the same practice [

command

is

apparent

ALTAI-HIMALAYA in

Shamanism, but the gradations

are entirely incomparable.

murder or harm by

far

is

its

applications

out that such

more dangerous than

a

can one seek the limits of such sug-

In the East one sometimes hears a significant sentence:

gestions?

“He

and

justly pointed

is

power

will

And where

physical one.

It

of the will

shall not live.”

It

means one has sensed

the spark of the

will-stroke. •

•

Two and

qualities

precision.

•

•

must be conceded

For the East, both

•

to the English: steadfastness

qualities are remarkable.

cision according to the ordained dates of course

necessary because “the worst theft

Do

time.”

It

all

not be late

to

be respected.

Then

traces

in the Statesman,

absolutely

is

some one

else’s

found by the Everest

an English Major related

during one of the expeditions into the region of the Hima-

layas, rise,

you wish

the theft of

began with the unknown

Expedition.

how

if

is

Pre-

he encountered a strange mountain inhabitant.

At sun-

amidst the frosty snows, the Major walked away from the

camp and climbed

neighboring rocks.

the

Glancing

near-by rocks, the Major to his astonishment beheld a

almost naked, standing, leaning on a high bow.

at

tall

the

man

The mountain

inhabitant did not look at the Major, his attention being completely attracted slope.

And

by something unseen behind the curve of the

suddenly the

man

bent, strained himself,

madly dangerous

leaps rushed

When

told his people about the

and

the

said:

Major

and by

from the rocks and disappeared.

“Sahib has seen a ‘snow’ man.

meeting they smiled

They

are

watching the

guarded places.” •

They

tell

in a train

•

•

•

of a recent case in Bengal.

without a

of the train.

•

The

ticket.

bells rang.

At the

The [18]

A

Sadhu was traveling

first station

he was put out

locomotive whistled and did

INDIA not move.

So

membered

the

Sadhu who had been put

he be put back

Then

in his place.

off

passengers re-

and demanded moved.

the train

that

This

is

mass suggestion!

verily

A

The

continued for some time.

it

European lady

living in India entered a dense part of her

garden and became

walks were not

path was somewhat

made

in

revery

a

laid out in that place.

and saw

there again

lost

why

to

as

Three days

the

later she

went

end of the

a freshly traced path, but the

She called the old gardener:

lost.

garden

“Who

has

the path?”

“Mem-Sahib wanted

to

have the garden path but

know how to end it!” Then the woman remembered

that

the

thought about the garden path was not

Sir Jagadis

completion of her

clear.

Bose affirms that the sensitiveness of plants

pletely astonishing.

long before

did not

I

it is

As

is

com-

the plants feel the formation of a cloud

visible to the eye, so the East feels the

thought

at

inception.

its

In the close interrelation between the visible and the invisible,

and

charm

in the epic simplicity of their interplay, lies the

of

India.

The Tibetan ments with

comes out

The

is

He

\aftans.

most astonishing

And

well-fitting.

all this

is

is

takes it

all

measure-

that the \ajtan

not done without care!

quality of gold for the trimming, the color of the lining

—

all

this

very narrow and one

the

making

his eye, but

and the length is

tailor

many

is

is

thought out.

astonished

seams. [

19]

how

The

local

homespun

evenly they can smooth

ALTAI-HIMALAYA

it

If

we

is

astonishing

take the accredited historical data of the

how

from the obvious

last

definitely the folk-consciousness

middle

survivals of the

ages.

Those

century

was freed

who defend

such survivals should examine these historic paths and convince themselves and realize that what

is

dental but under rational guidance

now is not and control. He who occurring

In sudden support of fundamental Buddhism, the

Huxley

says,

“No one

and

is

reincarnation has

entitled to the

sideration

Two

itself,

As

Like the teaching of

in its

roots in the

its

As

a

Buddhism: “As

As

net.

a rhinoceros treading all

Energy of application in

action.

of dissatisfaction giving birth to the eternal striving

which

man

Where, ophy of

a lion un-

study and manifestation of energy in

Energy of armament.

forms.

brings

reality

wind, not to be captured by a

a lotus leaf impervious to water.

Energy

world of

analogies.”

beautiful characterizations of

— solitude!” “The

of

same support commanded by every con-

which evolves from

frightened by noises.

realist

but a superficial thinker rejects the

teaching of reincarnation as nonsense. evolution

fails

cannot understand evolution.

to recognize this rationality,

realists,

acci-

into the cosmic rhythm.”

then,

is

the inactive pessimism?

despair, as

Buddhism

small comprehension. the false romanticism scientists,

So said Asanga.

is

Where

is

the philos-

sometimes called by persons of

How many books have been written under of the nineteenth century? How many

not versed in the languages, have fed their minds

with these vague sour conclusions ? again an image

armed with

all

— Buddha,

And now

there has appeared

with a sword, with leonine daring,

energies, within the universal structure, cosmic

in striving.

[20]

INDIA “Watch

the

movement

of the stars, as one

who

participates in

them, and constantly consider the transmutation of one element into another, because such a process purifies one from the grime of earthly life.”

educated

So

Hindu from

out the Himalayas. •

•

L.

Horn

writes:

tion, the old

So also says an

Marcus Aurelius.

reflects

•

•

•

“With the acceptance of the teachings of evolu-

forms of thought everywhere are crumbling.

New

dogmas and we have before us the spectacle of a general intellectual movement in a direction becoming ever more strange parallel with eastern philosideas arise in the place of outlived

—

ophy.

“The unheard-of speed and current in the

variety of the scientific progress

cannot but

last fifty years

call

forth an equally

unprecedented hastening of thought in the broad non-scientific circles of society.

That the highest and most complete organisms

develop out of the simplest organisms; that upon one physical basis of life stands the

traced a line

which

and not substance

in the

tion

new

it is

evolution

The

is

and

life

—

philosophy.

not

living world; that there cannot be

divides animal

the difference between tion

whole

all this

and vegetable kingdoms; that

non-life

is

already has

a difference in grada-

become commonplace

After the recognition of physical evolu-

difficult to say that the

acknowledgment of psychic

only a question of time.”

observation of the East astonishes and rejoices one.

And

not the obvious power of observation which leads to a dead stereotype; but observation, fine

and

silent in its substance.

One

remembers how the teacher asked the newly arriving pupil describe a room, but the

swimming

only a tiny

room was empty and

fish.

tion

is

him saying

he could have written

revealed the

was

In three hours the pupil wrote three

pages, but the teacher rejected little fish

in a vessel

to

all his life.

that about this

one

In technical imita-

same sharp observation. In the adaptation of [

21

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA the meter of a song, in the character of a

you

Somewhere

an all-powerful culture.

see

veloped in their mantles, were compared to

This

ophers of Greece, and

them

better, call

still

Upanishads, Bhagavad-gita, Mahabharata.

when

Greece existed

movements,

the Hindus, en-

Roman

senators.

Rather liken them to the philos-

an inane comparison.

is

in

call,

India was

the creators of the

For neither

And

flourishing.

Rome the

nor

latest

excavations begin to support this indubitable deduction. •

•

Tao Te Ching

In the

•

•

•

drawn

are

the following subdivisions

of the types of scientists: “Scientists of the highest

class,

ing about Tao, seriously bring their knowledge into tists

it.

And

Scien-

life.

on hearing about Tao, sometimes

of the middle grade,

observe

on hear-

sometimes

lose

The

again.

it

scientists of the

lowest class on hearing about Tao, only laugh loudly at

it.”

Lao Tze knew.

a

Hindus regard objects of art with fine understanding. From Hindu, you naturally expect an interesting approach and un-

usual remarks, and so

Hindu

is

a real joy.

Therefore to show paintings to a

it is.

How

not think that they are occupied only in will be astonished by their

silent,

contrary this

do not think

remarks about

is

a

good

that

sign.

tonality,

Sometimes he

will tell

you

tired.

On

means he has entered

mood, and one can expect from him tions.

about tech-

If the observer

he has become

It

You

contemplation.

its

nique, and about the expressiveness of the line.

be long

Do

captivatingly they approach art!

the

into a

especially interesting deduc-

whole parable.

a

will be nothing vulgar or crude in

it.

It

is

And

astonishing

there

how

transformed are the people of the East before the creations of art.

Indeed

it is

more

difficult for a

current of creation and as a rule he impression.

[22]

European is

less

to enter into the

able to synthesize his

— INDIA In the epic designs of India

all

can be coordinated.

the

If in

crowd, your next neighbor should be a skeleton, pale with

Next

you are not frightened.

rosy,

to

you will lean a Sadhu,

colored with blue stripes and with a head-dress are not surprised.

A

cheat you.

You

The

the crowd

—you

dung.

You

fearful

are smiling.

to India?

They do not

There

And you

in processions.

But do they

their consent.

like

a procession of

is

You

curved fangs.

whose sake you have come

are those for

in the bazaars

sit

cow

of

chariot of Jagernath crushes

Nagis of Rajputana with blades

And where

made

Fakir with toothless cobras will

are not astonished.

are calm.

and they do not walk

will not enter their dwellings without really exist

Are not

?

leisurely authors

writing about them only for the sake of being unique? yes,

they

And in human

exist,

this

and there

exists their

sharpening of

human

And no

substance.

lep-

knowledge and

qualities

is

Yes,

their skill.

being exalted

leprosy will turn you

all

away from

India.

All that takes place at the metapsychical institute in Paris

—the

experiments of Ndtzing and Richet in ectoplasm; the experi-

ments of Baraduque

in the

photography of physical emanations,

the works of Kotik in the exteriorization of sensitiveness and the

attempts of Beckhterev in thought-transmission at a distance all this is

familiar to India.

Only, not

as unbelievable novelties,

They speak

but as laws long since known.

little

on

these themes,

because of the dearth of scientifically enlightened fellow-conversationalists.

to

The

open the doors

and not

method of Hinduism and Buddhism is him who knocks, but not to call any one

ancient

to coerce

must be powerful.

to

any one.

But the quality of the knock

also

In the practical teaching of Buddhism, inde-

pendence of consciousness

is

sharply

emphasized, and

as

its

consequence, an unconquerable forbearing and all-conquering patience.

The

greatest patience will

[23]

win a

victory.

So

let

the

!

ALTAI-HIMALAYA ignorant deniers immerse themselves in the true East to learn and to absorb the

power of containment. •

•

•

•

•

Two characteristic episodes are related about When he was in India, he was asked whether psychic powers.

The Tashi Lama

and

All search was in vain.

denly disappeared.

considerable period of time, the officers saw

officers,

he sud-

Finally,

after

him calmly

me

years ago told

Indian

was shown

to

him once

saw

that he himself

upon the blank

cities

me

This incident reminds

search, the guards.

a

sitting

in fruitless

of Gorki,

who

vivid images of

metallic leaves of an album,

which

With

all his

in vivid

colors

by a Hindu.

in Caucasia

Gorki absolutely affirms that he saw

realism,

which the Hindu pointed out

that

In a short

same garden and around him were running,

in the

Lama.

he possessed any

silently smiled.

time, though closely surrounded by guards

many

the Tashi

to

him.

Greetings to Alexei

Maximovitch •

Attraction by thought to

is

e

•

spoke and thought

The

astonishing.

have an old Tibetan Buddha, but

We

•

•

among

this

ourselves

desire

was expressed

already difficult now.

is

how

to get

In a few

it.

days came a lama and brought an excellent Buddha: “The lady

wanted

from

to

my

have a Buddha and

house

altar.

I

I

cannot

am

sell

told to give the

the sacred image

Buddha

—accept

it

as a gift.”

“But

how

did you

know

“The White Tara came

of our desire to have a

dream and

in a

told

Buddha ?”

me

to bring

it

to you.”

And

so

it

happens. •

Recently

we

•

•

•

read in the Statesman that the lowest castes of

India begin willingly to accept Buddhism. in a talk with

Gandhi, spoke against

[24]

Rabindranath Tagore,

castes.

Out

of the

mouth

INDIA Brahmin

of a

avowal

this

is

Many

significant.

and

significant

beautiful signs.

must be given

Special attention

many most

valuable indications:

“When

and Tishya and the planet Jupiter Krita

(Satya)

to the Puranas

—therein

are

and the moon,

the sun

one mansion, then the

are in

So does the Vishnu Purana

age will begin.”

point out the age of Maitreya.

Lamas

coming

are constantly

They spread

to us.

on the lawn; and chantingly pointing with a relate a

whole

The

epic.

A

stick,

The

visual reactions

nun comes.

She

they

merge

vivid colors of the paintings

with the natural colors of nature. valued since long ago.

little

paintings

have been

at the threshold

sits

and throwing back her handsome head she chants her prayers.

We

can only distinguish “Tra shi sho!”

tion of language

is

very

great

and the number of

the

still

difference

dialects of the small tribes

The Kung

house of the Dalai Lama.

remarkable

is

important old

the coincidence of

man

(this

is

a

is

very

is

also great.

to salute the

title like

a

duke;

Conung, Kung, King)

is

an

with a wife and daughter, round of face

Ukrainian; with numerous servants; on big black mules

shod with kets.

But

from Lhasa comes Kung Kusho of Doring

Finally

like a

All these mountain dialects

difficult.

somewhat resemble Tibetan.

Altogether the ques-

On

silver are

high saddles and many-colored horse blan-

their foreheads

image of Chintamani. Chinese

Kung was

1912 the

This led to a revolt in Tibet. our Buddhist objects.

and

rejoices at

are

making Tibetan

Buddhism.

In

They almost wounded him.

soldiers.

secretary.

they wear vivid red caps with the

He

is

dishes.

We

They

The Kung

We

is

man.

by

killed his

astonished

are breakfasting.

speak of the

a very ceremonious old

[25]

attacked

movement

We of

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Interesting are the tales about the attacks of the cavalry of

Kham

Wild

and Golok.

riders

do not need

with teeth and

as in ancient narratives, take part in the battle

During

hoof.

is

of the horses.

If all

means

avalanche

this

of attack are exhausted the riders

from the ground and

There

laughter.

to the

Sometimes they disappear under the stomachs

borne onward.

take stones

up

battle, the riders take off their \halats

Helmeted, with swords, lances and guns,

waist.

Their horses,

reins.

is

with screams resembling

fight

one sign which

once quiets

at

this avalanche.

Of course every tribe has its particularities in battle and by not knowing them one can weaken the best force. Tibetan women and

in songs

in life

sometimes are not behindhand in manifesta-

They throw hot water on

tions of courage.

meet the temporary conquerors with •

Near is

Ghum

•

•

derision.

•

•

stands a high rock.

lying a significant prophecy.

significant objects.

It is

wrong

enemy; they

the

It is said

that

on

its

peak

In each stupa are enclosed

to think that the bookshelves dis-

played in temples to some travelers comprise the entire book treasures of the monastery.

Besides

these

volumes of

official

teachings everywhere in the secret recesses of the abbot there

One

are manuscripts of unusual interest.

thing

is

dangerous.

Often these hidden places are harmed by dampness, or mice, or are simply forgotten during

lama

will

tell

some hasty evacuation.

down

you: “I have written

They

do not carry them with me.

Then some unexpected

event happens

the prophecies but

are lying ;

the

Often a I

under a stone.”

lama hastens

to put his

sack on his back and depart; and the invaluable manuscripts are lost.

Some trousers”

bring

idiomatic

means

difficulties

commands

to get

are

characteristic:

ready for a march.

into negotiations.

in very high terms about “the hair

[26]

“To put on

Idiomatic terms often

Once an ambassador spoke of Brahma.” Nobody under-

From

a painting by Nicholas

Roerich

TIBETAN LAMA

Roerich

Museum, N. V

INDIA him and

stood

nothing

the negotiations

mind than

else in

had

However, he had

to stop.

the river Brahmaputra.

Often the

languages taught in universities do not help in the local places.

A

Chinese book, “Wei Tsang T’u-Shih,” thus describes the

Potala:

The

“The mountain

luster of the

palaces are glowing in a purple sheen.

mountain peaks

the beauty and perfection of

all

equal unto emerald.

is

make

objects

Verily

incom-

this place

parable.”

We

are reading of the builder of the Potala, the fifth Dalai

Lama, named “Ruler fearlessness.”

Lama

Dalai

It

is

of conjurations, eloquent, holy ocean of

who on becoming His Worthiness

he,

in 1642, built Potala, the red palace,

dMarpo, on the red mountain Marpo

ri.

He

Pho Brang

also

built the

remarkable monasteries Mo-ru, Labrang Garmakhiya, and others.

and the

He

also erected

saints of

Buddhism.

Tibet the second time. this

on the rock the

During

Gruber, the

colossal relief of

his rule

the

many

Buddha

Mongols entered

Jesuit, dislikes

much

very

strong leader, although he finds that he was cautious in his

methods, assiduous and devoted to

Unusual

is

the end of this Dalai

version the Dalai

hidden for

a

Lama

few years

political matters to

the Dalai

Lama is

now

Lama.

According

to

one

in order to give opportunity for various

be adjusted.

According

abandoned

voluntarily

to another version

his rule

same seclusion

and hid himself

in the Himalayas.

paralleled by the following ancient legend: “Every

century the Arhats until

and knowledge.

died in the eighties and his death was

for several years in the very

History

art

make an

effort to enlighten the

not one of these efforts has been successful.

followed failure.

It is

said that until the

world.

But

Failure has

day when a lama will

be born in a western body and appear as a spiritual conqueror for the destruction of the century-old ignorance, until then there will be

little

success in dissolving the snares of the West.”

[27]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA The Chinese emperors

lived

according to the astronomical

For each season of the year there was a

seasons of the year.

special colored garment.

Each period of the year used to be

spent in a special part of the palace.

The method

of Buddhist teaching reminds one of the

method

of the Kabala, that of not imposing, but attracting, and pointing

out the best way.

They speak about

a remarkable monastery,

Mo-ru, and about the special learning of the lamas of that monas-

For the three summer months the lamas go away

tery.

to the

west for meditation.

During the “hearings” the lamas often cover This

cloth.

recalls “biblical”

ceremony.

pletely,

a “soft voice,” always

from head

times,

how

himself up.” vatsky.

is

altogether other

Contemporaries were

Germain sometimes “wrapped

Let us remember also the

Lamas

which

ture

From

this purpose.

strangely Saint

Appolonius,

wrapped himself com-

the very same details reach us.

astonished

how

long scarf of woolen texture.

to foot, in a

This scarf was kept only for

with

the statement

It recalls

of Damis, the pupil of Appolonius of Tyana, of

when he heard

their heads

warm

shawl of Bla-

carefully observe a certain condition of tempera-

favorable to the induction of different manifes-

tations.

Lady Lytton came splendid

traditions

Bulwer-Lytton.

to see the pictures.

remain from

Then came Colonel

whole Everest Expedition. to find out

ing,

their

By

In the Lytton family celebrated

Bailey.

grandfather

Then came

the way, they persistently

whether we did not ascend Everest.

the

wanted

In the paint-

“Burning of Darkness,” * they recognized the exact image of

the glacier near Everest, and they did not understand * “Burning of Darkness”

(“His Country”

York.

[28]

Series),

Roerich

how

this

Museum, New

— INDIA characteristic view, seen only

by them, could have come into the

picture.

A

page of the true East: “Again they will come with the ques-

tion,

‘How

One

one deal with obstacles?’

shall

dered by the family; one by

A

poverty; one by the attacks of the enemies. to

show

When cisely

Every obstacle must be the birth of

difficulties

from

himself

matter in what

The

possibilities.

Success

lies in

we

long do

the enlarging of the

come near

impossible to

It is

Friends, so long as

as the birth of possibility, so

not understand the teaching.

fear.

to a

coward would garb

attire a

find the page about fear.

do not seem

consciousness.

rider likes

appear in the face of obstacles, they result pre-

No

fear.

we must

obstacles

good

on untrained horses and prefers obstacles

his skill

smooth path.

hin-

is

occupation; one by

distasteful

a

person

in the presence of

ray of courage shall lead above the manifestations of

obstacles, because

now, when the world knows where

seed of blood

growing.

is

can go courageously.

If

path

If the

means we can open the soul. that somewhere a new enemy

is

unknown

one has

If

it

—the

go

strewn by bones one

is

peoples speak in

to

ready.

languages

to hasten

Be

—

it

means

blessed, obstacles,

through you we grow.” India,

I

know

thy sorrows, but

I

shall

same joyous tremor

as the first flower

From

we

thy Brahmins

the Vedic wisdom.

We

ment

who

on the spring meadow.

who understood Rajah who strove for the

shall select the

We

shall

notice Vaishya

have exalted their craft and labor for the

of the world.

A

dagger of faith over bonfire over a

widow.

a

boiling kettle

white goat.

is

The phantom Menacing

blown by the whirlwind. And deadly burning But we

know

The

flame of a

Complicated

are thy vestures

are thy inclement

thy fragrant essences.

[29]

and

uplift-

the forge of India.

Conjurations and sorcery.

are the folds of thy garments, India.

rocks, India.

thee with the

shall select the greatest

finding of the path of truth.

Shudra

remember

India,

we

ALTAI-HIMALAYA know

the depths

great

Aum, which

and

leads to the Inexpressible

thy great Guiding Spirit.

Thy

India,

sacred scriptures in which

the future. as the

And we

most precious

We know the Heights. We know

finesse of thy thoughts.

shall

first

is

we know

outlined the past, the present,

remember

flower

[

thy ancient wisdom!

thee with the same tremor

on the spring meadow.

30

]

Part

II

SIKHIM (1924)

Evokingly and sharply the arrows whistle

across the gulley,

The Sikhimese remember their One says: “The arrow is better than

from out the bamboo grove. favorite ancient pastimes. a bullet.

It

sings as

it

strikes

while the bullet screeches as

it flies

outward.”

In the morning a red leaf was brought to us: “In the evening

Senge will fires it

began to

came

After sunset upon the zigzag of the path, the

arrive.”

out and the trumpets to resound.

flash

on

rolling

—motley, noisy,

with handmade horses,

a dragon,

guns and many-colored

crowd receding explosions

of

And

dances!

the banners

ards of Jenghiz

If

some

to

understand

whom

upon

whom,

just

?

.

These

the staffs

Polovetsky

are

— these

are the stand-

Touching

will be understood.

Knowledge

which image;

a \hati\;

By

Or

whom,

and

is

needed in order

if so,

to

whom,

To

a bearskin;

a fur coat; to

whom,

a

whether one with designs

the hieroglyphs of these objects one can read

entire relationship with

great scientist

.

the finesse of intention in these gifts:

all

a leopard skin; to

or a white one.

.

Khan!

an image, and

\halat; to

their

spark.

of the gifts of the lamas.

whom,

drumming; with with paper yaks. With pop-

trumpeting,

enamel of the night amid the

you understand, then you

are

to

flaming

finally

the dance proceeded, the motley

fires

into the violet

the

And

you.

Are you recognized

as

a

are you left within the limits of conventional

[3i]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Or

politeness?

are

you

understood “ceremony”

left is

without attention?

Often the non-

simply a short subtle code of gesture

and conduct.

Two

world of the ravines

One

worlds find expression in the Himalayas. soil

—

full of the

and grotesque

smoke of

melts the

enchantment of these

up

hills rear

Upon

gleam banners, suburgans or

stupas.

the

Deep which

parts.

to the cloud-line, into

and monasteries.

villages

is

the heights

The ascending mountain

Eagles vie in their flight with the

passes curve with sharp turns.

colorful kites flown by the villagers.

In the bamboo-stalks and

amid the fern the sleek body of a tiger or a leopard adds a glimmer of rich supplementary color. On the branches skulk dwarfed bears; and a horde of bearded monkeys often

the

escorts the solitary pilgrim.

An

earthly world

this,

full

of diversities!

stands beside a blooming rhododendron. all this

is

stately

larch

entangled.

And

earthly wealth shades into the blue mist of the rolling

A

distances.

Above to

All

A

chain of clouds crowns the lowering mist.

this synthetic picture,

new

behold

it is

strange, unexpectedly startling,

ramparts mounting the clouds.

lous waves, above the twilight,

Above

the nebu-

glimmer the sparkling snows.

Erect, infinitely beauteous, stand these dazzling, impassable peaks.

Two

distinct worlds, intersected

Besides

Mount

surpass in height

we

survey

all

by a mist!

Everest, fifteen peaks of the

Mont

Blanc.

If

Himalayan chain

from the great

the approaches to the

snowy border and

white domes of the peaks, nowhere, to one’s recollection, such an open barricade of elevations. pect one

obtains

From

this

all is

the

there

superb pros-

an especially enthralling impression of the

grandeur of the Himalayas

To

Rangith

river

—“Dwelling

of snows.”

the side of the ascent, the summits

[S^]

merge

into

one im-

SIKHIM placable wall It

is

—the jagged, unending ridge of the

difficult to discern

snowy summits of and Lhasa

—the

The upper

that just at that point are hidden the

Jelep-la

and Nathu-la on the way

portion of the Buddhist banners bear the cross-

teachings intertwined

all

to Shigatse

fog seems especially often to envelop this road.

shaped spear, disk, crescent and of

Sacred Lizard.

Are not the emblems

lotus-petals.

upon one

In these re-

flagstaff?

minders of the symbols of the elements of Nature every one will find an image near to him.

Upon

the ikons and ornaments of Tibet often

ing with precious stones, the image of the fish

—the

is

found, glow-

—that happy sign

same found upon the walls of the Roman catacombs.

one conception

is

of the “Elements

united the Buddha’s

“Wheel

of

life,”

In

the Circle

forming the mystery” of the Christian church

The many-eyed seraphim and Luminous Mother of the World penetrate

and the “Wheel of Ezekiel.” multiple eyes of the

equally into the recesses of the soul.

In the cults of Zoroaster there a flame.

Hebrew

The same flaming

chalice

silver shekels of the

remoter antiquity.

In the

represented the chalice with

is

is

engraved upon the ancient

time of Solomon and of an even

Hindu

excavations of the periods from

Chandragupta Maurya, we observe the same powerfully

stylized

Sergius of Radonega, laboring over the enlightenment

image.

of Russia, administered

from the flaming

chalice.

Upon Tibetan

images, the Bodhisattvas are holding the chalice blossoming with

tongues of flame. of

Aflame, too, was the

life.

verily

remember the Druid chalice Holy Grail. Not in imagination;

also

by deeds are being interwoven the great teachings of

ages, the It

One may

language of pure

all

fire!

has long since been said, “Faith without deeds

Buddha pronounced three paths: the shorter way of faith, and the [

33

the long shortest ]

way

is

dead.”

of knowledge,

way— through

action.

ALTAI-HIMALAYA David and Solomon Vedanta

extols the manifestation of works.

dation of

all

covenants, action

of the

of the details of the arrangement of the temple altars?

and hermits, who buried themselves

of the ascetics

What

stone coffins?

jurations; the wreaths

bosom

of the

and incense ?

And

and the

of the image-lamps

and candles of

the

And

heartfelt prayer, flung

in

its

And

kin

his closest

—are

Mohammed

castles are

they not like

Verily, not by accident have Buddhist

too

significance

telling of the visitation of the

of

upon

wrought gem-bedecked vestments ?

legends been carved upon the frescoes of the

Profound

of con-

musk

Buddha by

the stones of Stephen?

fires

in their

the birch of Trinity, the

Ganges?

the stones flung at

Pisa.

the

is

respond to our conception of the Christmas Tree?

desires, not

the

This

placed foremost.

Hindu Trimurti alien to the Trinity? Buddhist Tree of Wishes, hung with the objects of all

Are the symbols

What What

Verily, in the foun-

of the Spirit.

creative fire

Does the

is

The

the strivings of labor.

also glorify

is

mother of

Campo

the

Moslem legend

Jesus to the

before the birth of the Prophet.

towering, in the very same

Santo in

flight, as

mother

And Ladakian the eagles’ nests

of Faienza or Montefalcone.

In Jeddah, this gateway to Mecca, the cially venerate is

the

and guard the

so-called

same Archangel Gabriel

—he

Mogul queens bore

the revered

From

Mary, Mother of the World.

Tomb

of the

—who upon Mount Hira bade preaching—the same one! ments

Mohammedans

And

of Eve.

Old and

espe-

New

Testa-

Mohammed commence

title

of Miriam.

it

his

Miriam,

times immemorial have the

most ancient forgotten temples extolled the anticipation of the

new

epochs. [

34

]

SIKHIM In the ancient

Temple

of the

city,

Kish, has recently been discovered the

Mother of the World.

Sarnath and Gaya, the scenes of Buddha’s personal achieve-

now

ments, are fallen in ruins, too, Jerusalem. is

So

“Because Jesus himself witnessed that the prophet

without honor in his

own •

According

only the goal of pilgrims.

•

•

•

•

Buddha’s

to the legend,

in the presence of the

country.”

High Ones. The

“the holiest stupa” but

location

its

of Buddha’s achievements

was performed

initiation

is

of initiation

site

not disclosed.

on the Ganges

are

known,

the scenes of the birth and death of the teacher

is

called

The

sites

as well as

— in Nepal.

Ac-

cording to some indications the initiation was performed farther north

—beyond the Himalayas, because Buddha came down from

the north for the performance of his works. Jesus until his thirtieth year

Whither

lies

Who

?

Korya-Morya ?

knows

Shall

But where was

those haloed retreats

they

be

revealed

?

?

The

legendary mountain Meru, according to the Mahabharata, and

Shambhala

the equally legendary height

both lay in the north and served

And

as the

in

Buddhist teaching,

summit

for initiations.

not everywhere until the appointed date, can the details of

knowledge be

these places of high

Wise

intercourses

—one

told.

clearer

sees

from above.

Instead of

petty quarrels of denunciation, history recalls to us truly inter-

national

golian

ties.

pointed out as a historical fact that a

It is

Bogdo-Khan was saved from

of Nicholas.”

This

whose knowledge

is

is

illness

Mon-

by the “appearance

averred by the Mongolian Khutukhtus,

considered very high.

only do not overlook them.

All

is

full of signs,

Observe keenly and joyously, and

flexibly. [

35

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Upon

woman we

the wrist of a Tibetan

observed a strange

blue sign, which on closer inspection showed the appearance of a

When she woman revealed

tattooed blue cross of equal ends.

explanation of this sign, the

was asked the that a Tibetan

physician had applied the sign during “a very dangerous cough”

— evidently

pneumonia.

Tibetan

physicians

generally

inject

This sign was made by the per-

medicines under such signs.

sonal physician of the Dalai-Lama during his three years’ stay in Darjeeling.

Swastika

is

a symbol of the conception of fire

and

life.

According

to the

Lama

prophecy of

Tsa-rinpoche, the present

attempt to conquer Everest will end only in

whether the old lama

is

right.* •

The lama seemed

•

•

efforts in the physical

body?

at

any

Is

it

risk.

•

this very

window f

is

an

•

expend such

their astral bodies, for

obstacle. •

•

•

the high priest sent prayers to Tibet

which was troubled by the Chinese. wall of the Himalaya, he kept •

“Why

not simpler to be there in

For with ease do lamas project

which, of course, no height

From

•

•

astonished at the desire of foreigners to

ascend the summit of Everest,

spirit?”

Let us see

losses.

years, facing the

vigil. •

•

For three

•

•

In the time of the old Jesuit mission, about 300 years ago, in

Lhasa, there was a Christian chapel.

Now

Great lamas visited

no one even remembers the approximate

The lama

here bewails the visiting hunters

site

of

—they

it.

came and

* The Lama proved to be right. t The author lived in the so-called Talai-Pho-Brang where the Dalai stayed about three years during his flight from Tibet. [

36

]

it.

Lama

SIKHIM killed

many

forest,

few

And now when

stags!

animals to approach him his

We

complaint.

who was

a

the East,

all

him

And

him.

reminded of the

are

into the

he loves the

culture rings in

of old

tale

shepherd beyond the Ural, and

Avramy,

when he prayed

to

the sheep in silence turned also toward the sunrise.

him who was

Chinese

was the custom

it

to confine in the

defeated during a scientific argument.

An

learn more!

“A

to

strolls

Not savagery but deep

!

In Buddhist monasteries library

come

are the stags that

lama

the

Let

excellent custom!

Amban

(governor), an evil and dissolute man, was

desirous of visiting a venerated holy abbot of the local monastery in Tibet.

when he

By

persistence

and force he demanded an audience, but

entered the reception

throne, instead of the holy in fright he rushed

making fine

his

way by

reminder

room

of the abbot, he

man, the image

force,

of a hideous pig,

Thus

from the presence.

saw on the

the dissolute

man,

found an image worthy of him!

As

to all despots:

ye measure so shall

it

and

A

be meas-

ured unto you.” •

A

legend of Central Asia

ground dwellers blessed

all

ing in their course.

t

•

tells

—the Agharti.

kingdom,

mysterious

*

of the mysterious nation, under-

Approaching the gates into

living beings

Recall,

•

become

silent,

this

reverently paus-

now, the Russian legend about the

“Tchud” which went underground

To

persecution of the evil forces.

to

escape the

this secreted place also leads

the sacred legend of the subterranean Kitege.

Everything comes

from the North.

The whole world troves, temples

tells its tales

of

merging under water!

underground

know [

of the treasures

37

]

treasure

The Russian and Norman

peasant relates about this with equal surety. inhabitant of the desert

cities,

So, too, does the

which sometimes

ALTAI-HI MALAYA glimmer from under the sand waves and then time

—recede

again under the earth.

Around one

beacon-fire are gathering those

We

the predestined dates.

knowledge vent,

—knowledge

when

—until the ordained

truth

is

who remember

do not speak of superstitions but of

revealed in beautiful symbols.

so manifold

In

?

Why

La Manche even now

is

in-

seen

the city which has been “submerged” under water.

Many

sources

tell

of the subterranean dwellings in the district

A

and Koko-Nor.

of Lhasa

following

legend:

Genden were

built

When

lama from Mongolia foundations

the

recalls

monastery

the

of

the

during the time of the Teacher Tsong-kha-pa,

in the fourteenth century,

it

was noticed

that through the gaps

smoke of incense. A passage was broken through and there was found a cave in which, motionless, was seated an old man. Tsong-kha-pa aroused him from his ecstasy and the old man asked for a cup of milk. Then he asked what teaching now existed upon earth. After which he of the rocks there arose the

disappeared.

It

is

also pointed out that the Potala, the palace

of the Dalai-Lama, has hidden recesses of the greatest antiquity.

By

the facial expressions of the high lamas one will not discover

One must seek through other paths. much lies underground — how much more

anything. If so

veil of silence.

sponse.

nothing

An

It

—has only

We

insist,

after the first cautious re-

Another who

heard rumors. just

And why

not betray.

naive to

under the

authoritative astrologer assures us that he

ways of antiquity things.

is

lies

now

insists

is

is

versed in the

he has not even heard of such

should they answer otherwise?

Most heinous

knows

treason

They must

—and there are many

discern the true devotion and behind

it

traitors.

the structure of the

future. »

It is said

Temple

that

•

•

•

•

Solomon manifested such devotion toward the

that even

when

breathing his [

38

]

last,

lest

he interrupt

SIKHIM or

harm

until

the

work

of construction, he remained upright in prayer

an ant bored through

The example

his staff.

of perse-

verance and devotion! •

•

•

•

•

Unexplained have remained the strivings of Solomon toward the

One

Beginning, sheltering

forms of knowledge.

all

doned Fatehpur-Sikri (near Agra)

is

full

Aban-

of the signs of this unity

which was understood by Akbar the Great who preached the spirit of

One Temple.

In the center of the palace-court

is

still

standing the temple of united religion. Superficial writers wonder

why

the walls of this mysterious structure bear the remains of

such varied signs

—the traces of Buddhism

and Christian fragments.

mingled with Hindu

This united torch was already mani-

fested in life!

“Wise

Him

in heart

and mighty

and hath had peace,

treadeth

upon the waves

in strength;

Who

who

hath resisted

spreadeth out the heavens and

of the sea

—Who maketh

Arcturus and

Orion and the Pleiades and the inner part of the south

—Who

doeth things great and incomprehensible and wonderful of which there

is

no number”

—exclaims

not the mysterious signs of

Watan and Senzar

lamas pointing toward

We

the Festival of Unity

it?

is

And

Job about the One.

received by great

asked the Lama, “Is

approaching?”

He

are

it

true that

looked closely

at us,

then answered, “Such are the prophecies.”

In 1924, according to Tibetan calculations, the for here a century

is

new

era began,

not calculated as a hundred years but as

sixty.

You

listen to the

reading of the Bhagavad-Gita

;

you hear the

exclamation of the Buddhist servers of the temples. to the singing of the choir.

You

listen

Does there not appear before you [

39

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA the

One Image — the One common Will toward

of consciousness, embracing and conquering,

joy, to the unity

to the exalting

beginning?

Aum?

and enlightening

Should we not

happiness and

reflect

Why

why

Covenants

all

tell

the manifestation of

is

of the

same

active

phenomena always

accompanied not only by the same unexplainable words, but always by a vivid action of spirit?

And

volted.” invisible

The In

writings say,

“He

without the wondrous “uprising,” without

action, nothing

became

lightened;

The

filled

is

He

decisive.

realized

re-

this

and became en-

with invincible courage!

formulae themselves often astonish by their universality.

them

summons

are united the

of the mysteries with the prayers

of the most unexpected cults separated by whole epochs and

whole continents. is

the

same

The language

“Hallelujah, is

•

Hallelujah,

•

•

•

Hallelujah,”

a conjuration of ancient rites.

Babylonians, through the Israelites

known by

Mother of the World

for all cradles. •

Halelu”

of the

it

or

“Halelu,

From

Halelu,

the Chaldeans,

reached our

era.

It is also

several tribes of India.

In this region the simple guide will suddenly turn around on his path

and proclaim: “But men must

session

one and

is

will unite

among discern

all

are equal

men?” So

thinks and ponders the simple, poor

all

standing, he walked.

In the hope of the guide you

powerful unity and righteous under-

One

valued Buddha in the same

Only

man,

powerful proclamation of Vivekananda; without

depreciation, only in

of us.

But will That soon come, Which

!

the blue hills of Sikhim. the

finally realize that pos-

wishes that our priests of the West

way

in such benevolent

as the

understanding

of the future structure, [

enlightened lamas speak

40

]

lies

the guarantee

SIKHIM All creators of Unity must be recognized. Principally

With

let

us have

laboratory?

of ignorant denials.

one succeeds in getting plants which nurture

difficulty

the musk-deer.

less

how

But

Below the

bring

to

mountain pine

this

to the

altitude of 6,000 feet, the plants perish.

Most often from Bhutan the ragged, deep blue furling waves of fog crawl upward. Not only the snowy ridges but also the steps to the is

mountain paths

difficult to believe there

is

are

wrapped

in the dense mist.

a hidden glimmer.

Shall

begin denying the very existence of the Himalayas?

means they

are invisible, that

thing

is

invisible to us

it

does not

If

not they

Whenever some-

are non-existent!

we presume

we

It

exist.

Such

is

the

decision of ignorance.

Intricate are the

many

mountain paths with

are the earth-covered pits

are the intercrossing currents ness

under the green-blue

beneath the flowers. is

And

their

under the

many

How

turns.

Many

horse’s hoofs!

and streams, with the torpid dampTruly

foliage.

many

the language of the

are the serpents

murmuring

foliage

incomprehensible. Early are the stars aglow here.

Toward

the East, undiminished,

flames the triple-constellation of Orion, this astonishing constellation

which

of the

old

finds

its

way through

observatories,

such as

teachings.

undoubtedly

The

In the archives

much remarkable

data

which surround some conthe Bear and Orion amaze you by their wide-

could be found about stellations

all

it.

cults

spread popularity.

The wisdom of the Shamans designates them for worship. Nor did Job accidentally point to them alone as the supreme The glimmer spreads everywhere. In the act of achievement. latest number of the Journal of the London Asiatic Society is [41

]

ALT AI-HI MALAYA this

“The Emperor Baber near the beginmemoirs says: ‘On the outskirts of Barakoh is a

very important item:

ning of his

mosque called the Jawza Madjid. The is House of Orion. Jawza is a name ancient cult was the

now most likely effaced Thus we see how unceasingly Again are the astronomic

The

constellation of

The

Magi.”

compared

huge

bulletins telling of

flashed

up

observatories in Jaipur

The

to the

mountain on

body four

it

their backs.

The he

is

It

is

for the

safely?

and metal rings and

How

is

it

possible

high with such an immeasurable

feet

Much

laughter

further one goes toward Tibet the the

by a pleasantry.

in Delhi over-

Yet instead of groans you hear laughter from

stones!

And

its

Their heads are bent so low that one cannot

under the bent back.

people.

and

in

small Lepchas, coolies of Sikhim, bear

Will they be able to bear

burden of

in the East

their fantastic conviction.

structure.

to overload a

Only

was

weight

and astro-chemistry

distinguish their faces, because of the shawl chains.

this constellation.

Orion contains the signs of the “Three

The

air is pure.

unknown

from

Verily, the Star of the East!

import.

stones

desert.

the inexplicable

to the significance of Atlas, supporting the

whelm one with The

identified?

does Orion attract the eye of men.

feel the vital sense of astrology

scientific

of Orion.’ ”

significance of Orion, too, in ancient teaching

of the world.

do you

word With what

of the

by the sands of the great

which have suddenly

rays,

meaning

mosque pointed out by Baber

It is

pink

real

more

The

air

heard in Sikhim.

more communicative

The

are the

often one hears singing accompanied is

chief of the caravan

mounted firmly on

is

clearer here.

is

called Sardar.

the white

In his purple kaftan,

mountain pony.

Many

are

the white horses here.

The

caves of Kinchenjunga, [

where were guarded the 42

]

treasures,

— SIKHIM are

In one of the caves

far off.

still

Sambhava

(teacher of Tibet) and behind

And

never yet opened by man.

Padma

the statue of

is

it is

seen a stone door

yet they say:

“Nothing remains

hidden!” •

The human curled

But

—no

itself

is

it

•

•

consciousness often

Thus

also

known how

“like a dog’s

straighten

was

it

•

is

how you

matter

in curling back.”

sists

•

it

tail.

out,

it

If

has

it

still

per-

told by the ancient Chinese.

completely the consciousness has

been transformed by a mere touch.

“Why

do you not

pearls or setting

tell

us

you know,

all

By

landmarks?”

will pass the entire

way.

You

as if

you were strewing

these signposts

alone

—by

human

you yourself Accord-

feet.

ing to your growth shall you yourself gather pearls.

By your

own hands

will

shall

By your own hands

you match them.

develop dynamic power.

“You

will return”

you

and project your

will.

Otherwise matter will again not flow out in the “song of ceaseless

labor.”

from

In this way, superficial curiosity will be divided

They

true striving.

tell

of

where any one coming from the

to

found an

at

once be convinced of phenomena.

institute

offer these strange to

wash

their

who

one “modern sage”

comers from the

hands for the

tests.

But

if

through the

this “sage” forgot to

street at least the

wherewithal

There are ways which we

shell of the objects of every

be enabled to behold the summits of the cosmos

wondrous and undiminishing outlook the unsheathed eye.

The medical

shall the

43

will.

day you will

—what

a

new

world have for

lore of the ancients acclaimed

laughter as useful for the purification of the glands. [

could

street

must approach only with pure hands and with our own

And

offered

]

How

useful

ALTAI-HIMALAYA then must a smile be for the brain!

Thus

shall the

con juries of fear be transformed into the valiant

trembling

call of joy.

#

The motley powerful of the

feet of the

White Guards.

threatening the violators.

With

.

horrible

The

misty aureoles of lights are

.

cold respect or else with a clerical sense of the scientific,

do we examine the Tibetan and Nepal banner-paintings British

Museum,

the

But

in Chicago.

Musee Guimet

meaning

The

to

you

of vital

is

evil entities

with

symbols are transformed from ornaments into a

The images

living epos.

and they speak

this site,

The good and

for the local world.

their endless

Museum do we ap-

Every gesture of Buddha’s hand

quite differently.

in the

in Paris, or the Field

in a completely different attitude

proach the same paintings on

tones.

are

grins,

In explosive gasps flare up the gold

tongues of the primeval flame. .

the

Red and green “guardians

many-armed and with

entrances,”

glowing.

down by

figures of hell are being trampled

are enfolded in a stirring

harmony

work although

finest of these are of ancient

the

of

new

paintings are also at times excellent.

Let us predict for these images a great future

—

twenty

just as

years ago the future importance of the old Russian ikons

Merited attention has been given to the Chinese and

predicted.

Japanese

art.

An But

art concisely.

of Japan, after the

the Persian and for study

was

elaborate literature

after a study of classic Egypt, after the subtlety

romance of China and

Mogul

miniature,

and admiration.

to the fore.

has expressed this free

The

now

after the

arabesque of

appears a

art of Central Asia

new is

object

coming

In the fiery fantasy; in the dignity of the fine form;

in the intense

and complex gradation of tones [

44

]

is

manifested this

— SIKHIM completely unique and striking

But in

art.

its

quiescent expres-

sion this art responds to the mystery of the cradle of humanity.

In

forms Asia,

itself it

and

to

which

in time shall be directed inquiries

researches.

Only,

it

without

knock upon the doors of

necessary to

is

With full profound and anonymous

without weapons, without pillage.

threats,

must we gather the

readiness

beauty

this

pearls of

achievements; without superficial

hypocrisy and without

scientific

bribed treachery.

To

study the

barbaric

life

of a nightingale by

killing

it

—

is

it

not

? •

One remembers Kara-khoto

in

•

•

•

•

keenly some objects discovered by Kozloff in

Mongolia.

of the deserts

wondrous

Especially does one recall the

image of the woman’s head. cities

first

—how

If

such a people lived in the silenced

far

were these places from being a

wilderness!

Wisely, wisely did the deserts succeed in guarding for pos-

new treasures, and not only material treasures. One must recall not only the swords of the Tartar

terity

ing the

life

and

travelers

moned I

to

Even

searchers.

the finest of

and

in

how

treasures

Mongolia for

to search.

If

fared one

.

measur-

also the tents of all

Khan’s camps were sum-

the

Sometimes

it

young doctor who was

Poor

service.

soul,

is

it,

and

lie at

sent

he knew not what

young generation could

were prepared for

unlifted.

to the

in

.

artists.

remember how badly

Urga

There are

of Central Asia.

.

realize

what

the edge of the road

only a question of lifting up

the

treasures.

A

little

shepherd boy found 120 pounds of gold in Scythian

objects, because

he was attracted by the glimmer of metal which

sparkled on the slope of the

hill, [

45

washed ]

off

by the

rain.

How

ALTAI-HIMALAYA many by

such sparks are glimmering!

But often our eyes are dulled

laziness.

The

Maitreya

blessed

always represented crowned by a

is

In Tashi-Lunpo, the monastery of the

wreath, in a great image.

Tashi-Lama, three years ago there was placed a gigantic image

new age of universal Unity. This been invoked with the new approaching era of Tibetan

of Maitreya, bearer of the idea has

chronology.

During the

service

Therein

passed around.

smoking Tibetan

the temples

in

is

empty

—

this

is

is

the idea of the grail in this filling

of the vessels before the Blessed Image. the vessel

tea

One must

never leave

contrary to the custom of the East.

Then

the gigantic trumpets are sounded, like the voices of storm and

thunder, with their

summons

to the future.

Backs adorned with

their purple mantles are bent low, thinking of the future. like a fiery field,

And

under the image of the Dream of the World,

one hundred and eight

are glimmering.

fires

In a special compartment are guarded the masks of the keepers. possible that these frightful visages can symbolize the

Is it

of benevolence

?

However,

these are not symbols of benevolence

For there

but symbols of earthly elemental forces.

and the

Even

way

is

the heaven

earth.

the physical world of Tantrik teaching,

which has been

modern understanding, must be conceived The teacher, Padma Sambhava, would not have

so degraded in

sub-

limely.

pro-

claimed only a physical teaching. •

I

•

•

•

•

look upon an ancient painting of the Monastery Daling.

Here

are the acts of the teacher,

Here

forces are represented in action.

hatted lama with Solomon’s Star a dragon.

Here

is

the teacher [

Padma Sambhava. is

upon

the teacher as a blackhis headdress, striking

summoning

46

]

All his

the rain.

Here he

SIKHI M saves a

drowning one; he charms small

evil spirits;

weaponless,

he conquers beasts and by a magic weapon he smites a first

tiger,

Here he makes

covering his head with the sacred triangle.

harmless the serpents; here he conjures the stormy current; and

he sends

mountain

Now

Now

rain.

he

fearlessly converses

Here the teacher

spirit.

with the gigantic

above

flies

And

finally in the circle of a

poor family, he prays for a be-

nign sea voyage for the absent master of the house. clouded

is

his teaching

now,

its

foundation

No matter how gleams through.

stills

“The Paradise of Padma the Temple surrounded by the

again, another ancient painting:

The

Sambhava.”

teacher

in

sits

The Temple

Righteous Ones.

from the earthly world by

stands

upon

Of

ascent!

smirched even

this

grimaces are also

A

course,

his

manifestation.

recourse to magic powers.

On New

picture

of the

How

encrusted with false

all religions.

beyond the confines of magic.

—seems

clear

commentators have be-

course, the teacher, Tsong-kha-pa,

Lamas

mountain separated

and upon them the self-denying

voyagers are crossing to the temple. illuminated

a

Across the river are

a blue river.

stretched white hati\s (scarfs)

Of

mountains.

out of the shelter of the cave he hastens to comfort the

world.

Or

all

He

still

is

nearer.

forbade the

—that

His teaching

monks

He

rose

to

have

of the Yellow

less spoiled.

Year’s Eve, February 4, after sunset, the fires in the

monasteries upon the the far-away

drums

hill

dart up.

reverberate.

And

... In

the ringing gongs and

the

morning

are held the

dances.

Before the jurations

New

Year, the evil entities are destroyed by con-

and dances.

In the Dance of the Stags, the effigy of [

47

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA the evil entity

midst of the

hacked and

is

circle

parts strewn

its

around.

In the

proudly walks the Guardian of the Teaching,

—while black-headed

lamas whirl around,

swirling the wings of their broad sleeves.

Musicians in high

brandishing his sword

yellow hats are coming to the fore, like Berendeys in “Snow-

And

maiden.”

above the ornamented cornices of the temple the

eagles wheel, while

crowds stand out

The dances cance, with

removed

is

assembled

turrets of the hill the

in colorful relief.

New

themselves on the

Year’s day acquire signifi-

How

frightful symbols of evil entities.

their

the impression

against the sunny sive

from the

made by

far

these awe-inspiring masks,

background of the Himalayas, from the oppres-

dark corners of Museums where these examples are so often

collected, frightening the visitor

tional hell

Of

!

course, this hell

of the weakly developed souls,

is

by the apparition of a conveninvoked only for the terrifying

and much fantasy

is

devoted to

the intensifying of these hellish countenances. •

In the monastery of the

luminous.

with

a simple

chief lord of

•

Red Caps

the impression

is

not so

Red Monasteries

of

drag forward the black soul of a dead murderer.

like servitors

They weigh out the balance,

•

•

Padma Sambhava this is more physically conventional. The play starts “mystery” of the judgment over the dead. The hell approaches with his assistants. The beast-

In the

symbolization

•

his crimes.

The

and the murderer

is

chalice of his sins weighs

down

thereupon thrust into a seeth-

The same occurs to the soul of a female sinner. But then there is summoned forth a saint* in the vestments of a lama. He is adorned in a white scarf. Of course, the court ing caldron.

must be

just, so three

messengers of joy lead the exalted one

into paradise!

[

48

]

SIKHIM who came

Fifteen years ago there died a remarkable lama

from Mongolia. Russian

ascetic.

We saw his image —resembling A powerful visage, unconquerably

cheek bones; the eyes are piercing. this

strong

spirit,

the type of

hard are the

“During the departure of

rainbow shone over the monastery founded

a

by him.”

The lama

possessed rare books

One must send

rare books.

Remarkable books concerning his

There

into the

works of European

who

difficult to

the

remote

obtain

districts.

book of one Tashi-Lama,

a treatise

There are

collections

on the transmigration

Shambhala often find For instance,

scientists.

lived at the

in the

end of the eighteenth century. to Tibet,

remaining

In the thirties of the

monasteries.

their

way

ceme-

buried an enigmatic man, Hungarian by

is

walking from Hungary

known

very

are not translated.

tery of Darjeeling birth,

is

teachings brought from

The

is

sacred Shambhala.

visit to

They

it is

a trusted person into

exist; there

of symbolic parables. of souls.

—and

Koros, as he was called, died.

last

many

He came

years in un-

century,

Csoma de

In his works he pointed out the

teachings from Shambhala, designating the next hierarchy to

succeed Buddha.

It is

here from Hungary.

One more Lama often

very characteristic that this savant

His activity was entirely enigmatic.

spark about Shambhala. fell

A

very well

into the sanctuary,

to disappear altogether,

Tashi-

Shambhala.

These

being transported

ecstasies vividly transport

one to the discourses of the time of Saint John de

were raised

known

into an ecstasy during his talks with his pupils.

Sometimes he seemed

Saint Theresa

came

when both

la

Croix with

blessed conversationalists in exultation

to the ceiling of the

[

room.

49

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Remembering

exalted occurrences, one also recalls the sparks

“A

of indignation.

Blessed

One was

so indignant, that a spark of lightning struck

Of

the offender.

slanderer once approached Buddha, but the

course, the Blessed

blow and revived the defamer, but the

One

had been so shocked

latter

The

that he forgot his plan of attack.

arrested the counter-

sparks of the counter-

blow!”

“The

case

also told that

is

Sengchen Lama, before

would soon reincarnate again

tion in Lhasa, pointed out that he

on

earth.

And

truly very soon in Chinese

same

a boy with the

rare

and

his execu-

Turkestan was born

characteristic physical defect

on

his

Lama. Now this Mongolian prince is more than twenty years of age. At present in our service is the son of the servant of the late Lama, and he was wont to travel on the errands of his father to the young prince.” knee, which distinguished the late

•

Whoever in the

is

•

•

•

•

acquainted with riding horseback in Caucasia or

Arizona and Colorado canyons, will

the steeps of the hills of Sikhim.

know how

to climb

Only, instead of the colorful

tragedy of American wonders, here you behold an ascending

garden cultivated by the mysterious in

its

are

unknown

caves

sit

hermits,

composing the legend of

He who ancient

known

has

town

sites

And

rise of exalted teaching.

who upon

celestial

the strings of earth

life.

the approaches to the old monasteries and

in Russia with

their

blossoming

hills

and

fragrant pine groves, will understand the feeling on the approach to the monasteries of Sikhim.

I

always repeat that

to see a beautiful spot, ask the inhabitants of a

out the most ancient

knew how

site.

to select the

with

its

wheels of

niches for seats

life, its

town

to point

These people of times immemorial

most beautiful

Every mountain summit

you want

if

is

places.

crowned by

a beautiful

mendong,

prayers carved in relief and with

from which you behold the image of the [

50

]

its

far-off

SIKHIM distances.

Here lamas and

Here each

ners are fluttering.

Here ban-

travelers are meditating.

down

rider will slow

his horse.

From the mountain summit you plunge again into the receding hills. The ribs of the checkered hillocks also disappear, like the backs of panthers, tigers and wolves. After the

hills,

and monsters impede the way.

The

snakes

like tigers

Green gnomes

again the fairy-tales of the forest.

The verdant webs

wind themselves around

and leopards here

intertwine.

The moss-

the trunks.

are lurking.

An

enchanted world

this!

The most

fantastic hills

ing Sacred Chalice

—a

and rocks form themselves into

a seem-

In the center of the valley

vast valley.

unapproachably stands the mountain of the White Stone, girded by two

rivers.

crowned by the Monastery Tashi-ding, which

It is

means “Valley open

to heaven.”

to search the endless wrinkles

and

An

ancient place this.

cavities of

unearth the treasures collected by the monastery stone, fulfillment of all wishes; the

hundred images of Buddha; porarily hidden

;

and

all else

Try

rocks.

its

Try to

—the miraculous

immortal Amritha and a

as well as all the sacred

books tem-

spoken of in the ancient manuscript,

“The Voyage through Sikhim.”

The approaches

have the impossible

trails

down

must be traversed by human

crossing on the suspended

hazardous.

bamboo

bridge

is

feet!

especially

Below, the mountain river rushes and roars, bearing

the icy current

on the steep

recently

been transformed into steep footpaths.

Verily, the path of the spirit

One

Only

to Tashi-ding are very difficult.

slope,

from Kinchenjunga.

And

you pause many times: Shall

above the bridge I

at last arrive?

One must hold one’s breath to conquer this age-old mountain. Upon the upper slope an honorary reception is arranged for us by the land owners. us,

Ale, sugar-cane and tangerines await

under the canopy of rushes adorned with

their yellow garlands.

Farther off resound the reverberant drums and silver gongs:

[5i]

The

On

reception of the monastery.

the last slope

we

met

are

by the pipers and trumpeters.

Amidst the rows of

crowd you reach

a colorful

Behind the gates of the monastery,

place.

the lamas receive you.

In the front

head lama of the monastery, stands

row

in purple

garments,

man,

a venerable old

image

like a delicately carved

Thus you walk up

of the fifteenth century.

the ancient

to the spreading

turquoise tents in the midst of a forest of stupas and amidst

many-colored banners, amidst the sparkling rows of

In the

first

full

moon

after

New

fires.

Year, which

on the twentieth of February, there was the annual Tashi-ding.

The

this year

fell

festival in

miracle of the self-filling chalice occurs at

the time.

Since

miracle

ancient days

has been

mountain

full

moon, the

A

chalice

diminished but sometimes

war.

Now

is

drawn and poured

In the presence of witnesses, chalice

closed

is

year later at sunrise during the same

unsealed amidst due ceremony and

is is

this

designated spot in the

of water

chalice.

sealed.

war

a

Maharajah of Sikhim, the

the quantity of water

year of the great

From

vessel

wooden

representatives of the

and hermetically

than eight generations ago

ordained.

river a small

into an ancient

—

—more

measured. it

Sometimes the water has

has increased considerably.

which meant

the water tripled in quantity,

the water has diminished by

half,

In the

which means

famine and disorder. This

evil

omen

has been intensified by another sign.

On

February twentieth there occurred a complete eclipse of the

moon.

Never has there been

The trumpets

so evil a sign.

sound, the whistles shiiek, the people in cos-

tumes, as though from the “Snowmaiden,” proceed to the great stupa.

The

choir, singing,

winds [

52

]

its

way around

the crowds.

SIKHIM Many

The drums of the lamas resoundmoment darkness falls athwart the clear

prostrate themselves.

At

ingly thunder.

this

The golden

moonlight!

of offerings

gleam out

moon!

has stolen the

Never was

it

as

though

The demon

Occurs a complete eclipse!

against black velvet.

Rakhu

fires

so until this day of

miracle in Tashi-ding. Said Asura

Razayana by

Rakhu deceit,

when, on the

And

orbit!”

to the sun: “Because thou hast carried shall

I

swallow

thee,

god of sun,

day, you will unite

thirtieth

Rakhu pronounced

further

I

be cut asunder,

shall seize thee

I

a prophetic threat: “In

watching the

commanded

and devour thee on the

date of the fifteenth, during the time of the full attentively the people are

time

the knots of the

penalty that thou, moon, although recognizing me, that

at that

away

And

moon!”

eclipse of the

moon and

sun and beat upon the drums and threaten Rakhu.

But there was

beheld garlands of

At

one good omen.

also

fire starting to

sunrise the head

glow upon the peaks

lama

of the

mountains.

When

the

moon was

menced around

the

restored to the world, the dancing

main

stupa, a typical Russian round.

songs are also like the Russian; their import a

monastery dwells our Lord Buddha.

offering”

but

I

—so

We

begins one song; or “Mighty

shall find a spot for

it

close to

my

is

spiritual.

bring to is

com-

The “In

him our

the sacred

book

heart” or, “I recollect

the sacred monastery.”

In a white kaftan the approaches.

We

artist

who

decorated the local temple

have arranged for him to go with us to paint

the Blessed Maitreya.

He

will demonstrate the technique of the

local painting.

[

53

]

—

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Red, yellow, white, purple kaftans; women’s sleeves of crimson, green sing,

and white.

Peaked

and for two nights walk around the

They

Padma Sambhava gave

They walk around another teacher’s

foot

upon which

his benediction of the site.

stone bearing the imprint of the

and the imprint of hoofs and paws of

beasts.

again the chorus marches around the stupa, singing of the

fulfillment of

desires.

all

•

•

•

•

•

Entering the temple, you walk along your

of the altar wall,

Maitreya-Buddha

is

is

These positions are

earth.

armed,

Buddha

Upon

spiritual

like

Buddha.

to the wall

Sect, in the center

Or now, perhaps

Sometimes the lower temple

at the right.

is

the upper one to Buddha.

closely related to the inner

heaven;

represents

up

meanings of the

Padma Sambhava

the

the side niches are images of Avalokiteshvara

conclave of brotherhood, many-headed and many-

our Russian Hundred-Armed One.

statues of the asteries

the statue of

Padma Sambhava and

dedicated to

teachings:

left

Within the temples of the Yellow

of the altar.

a

talk,

stupa.

are touching their foreheads to the stone

the teacher,

And

The people

hats, fur-edged.

There are

also

“Keepers of Lightning,” of the founders of Mon-

and of sixteen Arhats,

sitting in

carved caves.

Upon

the altar are lamps and various offerings, seven chalices with

water, a saucer of

The

with incense, a shrine with

rice, censers

relics.

walls are generally covered with frescoes, especially one

wall, that of the altar.

At

the entrance stand the images of the

guardians of the four hemispheres.

found an image of the seven

among them on

In every temple will be

treasures vouchsafed to

a white horse

humanity;

the image of the miraculous

is

stone.

In a special compartment are kept the sacred books. [

54

]

The

SIKHIM common dream

of the monasteries

books; but books are expensive

is

—a

number of volume costs up to a

to increase the

sacred

thousand rupees. Especially touching

is

the evening, here in the

ornamented beams.

the service of the thousand lights, in

low frescoed temple, with

In the center

is

a long table

its

on which

are set; along the walls also stand rows of lights,

of fires caressingly undulates and sways,

columns and

wrapped

and

fires

this sea

in a veil of

smoke from the sandalwood, wild mint and other fragrances, which are consumed in the urns. During this service the singing, too,

of exquisite harmony.

is

Along

High

saddles are covered with bright fabrics.

are bearing the bulging-bellied luggage.

There

pilgrims seeking a resting place for the night. a

few banners

A

the dead.

wind their way. Wild white ponies

paths, the caravans of the pilgrims

all

raised in

crowd up

memory

are

crowds of

Here and

there are

of the living and oftener for

to 1,200 collects together

—but a peaceful,

good crowd.

At

dawn, long before

early

mountain drone of

are

still

soft

amber, the

creeps along

life

when the snows on the camp begins to stir. The

sunrise,

and broadens; the cadence of

early

prayer mingles with the stamping of horses and mules.

In the morning, a procession makes

its

way toward our

tents.

The head lama himself proclaims the bringing of gifts. After him follow high uplifted trays with rice, with the ribs of a ram, with sugar-cane, with ale and fruit. The lama himself makes the offering to our traveling kitchen.

Amidst the under

a

stupas are spread the tents of the pilgrims.

green canopy are sitting lamas from Tibet.

Here

Women

are

The hand drums

turning for them the lengthy pages of the prayer book.

lamas are intoning Tantrik songs,

and gongs.

Where

is

to the

sounds of

Stravinsky, Stokovsky, Prokofieff, [

55

]

where

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Zavadsky, to portray the powerful modes of these stirring calls?

And how

fine

the white-gold face of her

is

who

turns the pages

before the singers.

Not

group from Nepal are clapping hands

far off, a

beat and chanting.

moved,

ecstatically

In the center, a

dances the Sherpa Dance,

It

is

motion

full

rhythmic

features un-

of the fine

Sometimes she moves her hands

gestures of conjuration. fluttering

woman, with

in

and

like a bird

utters a

in a

weird birdlike

call.

indeed striking.

There the wanderers from Bhutan are praying under canopy.

a red

Before the distribution of the healing waters, a sacred

procession walks around the stupas.

them

in high red hats; after

In the front are trumpeters

the lamas in tiaras,

and behind are

borne a long row of sacred books.

At

head lama quietly speaks of

sunset, within the tent, the

the sanctuaries of Sikhim.

He

relates the “miracles”

which he

has heard, or has himself seen; of the buzzing of swarms of

and

invisible bees; of the singing

celestial

music; of the appari-

At our departure the lama pointed out two gracious omens: Upon our way, coming to meet us, were three brimming bamboo water-pails carried by water carriers tions of sacred images.

and two woodsmen with

full fagots of

wood.

# #

Tashi-ding

is

#

one of Sikhim’s prominent

to the parish of a great monastery, travel It

away.

It

is

also

sites

Pemayangtse, and

on the peak, standing

has been newly rebuilt.

Its

and belongs

like a

is

a day’s

bulwark.

renovation has been done with

such sensitiveness that even the most recent painting gives you joy by

its

fine

and ingenious decoration. [

56

]

And

the carvings

on

SIKHIM And

the casements are fairylike.

the

you into the wooden temples of Russia. lamas with their sive red

festive purple

Dignified are the head

garments and with their impresNevertheless one recalls

adorning their heads.

tiaras

heavy doorways lead

tall

with most pleasure the eighty-year-old abbot of Tashi-ding, ever zealous and careful to improve his structure, with his economical eye penetrating everywhere.

Behind the gates of Pemayangtse are standing ancient

three-hundred-year-old

A

Berendey.

trees

tiny street of the lamas’

—like homes

Berendey, painted and ornamented with

and

the

its

is

as

guardians

fairy

like the

forest

of

suburb of

many-colored porches

stairways.

Here a small

is

“Heaven’s Sacred Mountain” and upon

mountain

There

lake.

is

also a small

its

peaks shines

temple erected

on the spot where the founder of the Red Sect in Sikhim

From Dubdi, The

Lake and thence

the founder passed to the Sacred

into the ancient

Sanga Choling.

four most ancient monasteries of Sikhim are Dubdi, Sanga

And

Choling, Daling and Robling.

the meanings of their

are noble ones: “Palace of Meditation,” “Island of Secret ing,” “Island of Lightning”

An

excellent monastery

Daling with

boo grove.

its

and “Island of Happy

is

ners

—gold

are

no

at the altar

is

we

preciously kept a sealed

on a black background. but there

of the founder;

Teach-

blue-white, porcelainlike entrance amidst a

Here

relics,

names

Striving.”

Sanga Choling; nor do

taining relics of the founder of the monastery.

when

lies

the

a stone

life in

Choling there

sacred by the blessing

the monastery

is

undefiled the

firm, but each besmirching of life

makes the stone

Here

are those tiny doors, beloved to

me

[

57

]

bam-

There are ban-

In Sanga

made

forget

box con-

is

stone

lived.

in

crack.

Novgorod and

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Here

Yaroslavl.

beautiful

is

fresco

polychrome ornaments entwining

and doors.

Here

to the faith,

true widow’s

also lighting a

fire

adamantly

“the Keeper of Lightning.”

rises

Although the

the

casements of the windows

of dedicated offerings.

fires

—a

are

same rounded backs of pilgrims devoted

are the

and the

all

Here

painting.

Our

And

mite.

Padma Sambhava, was

teacher,

coolies are

above them

never in Pe-

mayangtse, yet in the monastery are kept the things which

belonged

to this

sealed but

founder of the religion.

on some occasions

shown;

are

The

things are kept

a garment, headdress,

wondrous chime, two magic daggers and image of Buddha.

beads, tiny bells of a

small exquisite

And the

more thunderous in Pemayangtse and dragon guardians seem more terrifying and the influence of the trumpets sound

the monastery

rajah are near. rajah is

ruins of the palace of the

According to the

was chosen

few

The

greater.

is

custom the religion.

first

Maha-

Maha-

But there

in the big monastery.

solitary temples

rounded by peach and

biblical

by the head of the

to reign

no figure of Maitreya

A

a

with a single

rose flowers

fire

before them, sur-

and intertwining orchids and

wild peonies, indicate closer the path of simple attainment of the

Teaching.

Out

of the forest walks a peasant and his head

white flowers.

Where

Only

this possible?

is

•

•

•

•

the

hills,

Through

is

no poverty.

The

amidst blossoming

in Sikhim.

Where

trees,

Here

stand the quiet

little

no

Upon houses.

and glimmer

are people carrying their vege-

tables; here they pasture their cattle [

there are

people are living simply.

the colored branches shine the bright stars

the snow-covered peaks.

adorned with

•

Are the inhabitants of Sikhim poor? riches there

is

58

]

and smile kindly.

Here

CITADELS

AND

SANCTUARIES

SIKHIM with fairylike music they walk along the steep paths in wedding

Knowing

processions.

And

bodies.

of reincarnation they quietly cremate the

Mark, they are often singing.

they are singing.

Verily, one can sing

under a canopy of various flowers and

Orchids, like colorful eyes, cling to the trunks of the

plants.

Pink, purple and yellow bouquets are strewn along

giant trees.

way like bright sparks. And many have their ancient powers of

these are not simply plants;

the

Nature awaits here

healing.

Come

full of gifts.

hither and be cured.

Charura, Parura, Orrura are the three important curative against cough, cold

and

Charura

fever.

is

Parura like a green chestnut and Orrura

the red bark of

is

fever

is

yellow cherry;

like a

like a yellowish-green

All three are sharp to the taste and full of tannin.

crab-apple.

Here

fruits

Aku Ombo,

to cure

wounds. Salve against

Sergi Phurba, like a dry giant bean.

Chuta, the dry

bitter root, will cure swelling

and heal the

brown powder

The red-stemmed Tze produces

magenta;

for

Purma

bitter

of Berekuro

the stomach,

dendron; while the

Memshing

is

for incenses.

effective for

is

Dangero heal

colds.

Pati

head ornaments

is

women’s

much

leaf of

A

ailments.

The

a disinfectant for

is

a

flowers of

like the flower of the red

Dysro

is

broth from the roots

a sacred plant in Nepal,

at festivals.

Bassack

throat.

where

it

is

rhodo-

wounds. used for

Endless are the useful plants await-

ing the best application and study.

The just as

upon

leaves of the herb

do the “snow-frogs” *

a stone

animal,

Ava Duti

it

you

are said “to soften” stones,

in the

see the print of

an

Himalayas.

elk’s foot or the

seems they have eaten or touched

Turning again

to legends: near

this

—a

paw

if

of an

wondrous herb.

Phalut on the road to Kinchen-

junga grows a precious plant, the black aconite. * Snow-frogs”

Therefore

Its

flower lights

legend which attributes to snow-frogs the ability to soften

stones. [

59

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA up

at night,

again

is

and by

glow one

its

fulfills

us not to superstition but to that

wishes

all

•

•

•

•

a conjuration

offering receives

good or

of

lay there

we

leads

•

The branches

gift.

rhododendron and some other plants were

evil,

there,

our house, and covered with a

their leaves pointing to is

which

same source wherein so much

Before our gates was found a strange

This

—and

concealed.

lies

fir tree,

Here

the trace of the legend of the Russian fire flower, that

enchanted blossom which

still

locates this rare plant.

(Sunnium) and the man who

upon himself

which

all

is

sworn upon

at

it.

with stone.

raises this it,

whether

For many days

sickness or sorrow or joy.

and even horses shied

flat

of a

The same

it

conjuration

observed in the suburb of Jaipur; there in the middle of a lamb’s

street, in a flat basket, lay a

rupees.

None touched them.

liver,

and three

flowers

silver

These conjurations are of very

ancient origin. •

•

•

•

Everywhere are legends of the accidental

which was followed by dumbness and

spots, the revelation of

even death. Thus accidentally teries,

it is

wandered

discoveries of sacred

told that

one Shikari (a hunter) in Assam,

into a sacred place

and when he attempted

to reveal

and beheld

them he was

its

mys-

stricken

dumb. •

On

the shore of the sea

and near the top of

it

is

•

is

•

•

•

moving

a stick.

It

moves on alone

tied a lighted tinder.

Thus do

the

conjurers of the coast of Malabar invoke their conjurations to

burn the house of an enemy. overtake such a stick but

A

it

Doctor Jones of Calcutta

“walked away” beyond

legend from around Mongolia:

and her son was desirous

“A

that a high [

60

]

his

tried to

own

pace.

venerated mother died

lama possessed of exalted

SIKHIM powers should perform the

services over her.

But such a lama

moment

of death deposited

The son

could not be found.

at the

the spirit of the departing one into a sandalwood casket, strongly

and himself invited the

sealed this sanctuary

The lamas

Tibet.

gan

change

to

exertion.

concentrated upon the casket; one of them be-

becoming

in countenance, first

Then suddenly

the eyes of

red, then blue

from

the casket burst into splinters before

This lama was able to free the

all.

from

best lamas

spirit

and thus

could perform the service.” •

•

•

•

•

The people here know everything; they have heard everything. One can remember and disclose all things in the twilight: of “Nam-Yg” (heavenly letters) the letters and sacred books which

—

are falling

change

from heaven; of rings of

silver or turquoise

their color as a sign of foreboding

from heaven

the stone bead, sent

and warning; of

A woman the image of

•

•

•

in the

she discovered an image and brought

soon she forgot

stone and put

it

is

found

in her

into a coffer

known.

might

receive

morning amid her

flowers

it

that she

into her shrine.

and Buddha disappeared from the

woman

Next time the

disappeared.

it

All this

•

was very pious and dreamt Buddha. Working

Si,

guard the health; of the

to

finding of objects which disappear afterward. •

which

But

shrine.

garden a whirling sparkling

and forgot

Then

it.

the stone

Neglect always results in the disappearance of the

bestowed happiness.

Do

not record the things which can be read in books but those

which

are related to

living ones. life.

Not by

you the

in person; for those

thoughts are the

book but by the thought

Understand the sparks of the primordial

[

61

]

shall bliss.

you judge

ALTAI-HIMALAYA In the twilight under the flowing

in the purple sheen

stars,

of the mist, sounds the soft voice of the lama, telling his calm tale of the

“King

and wisdom, possessed of

of the

new

The

tale

World,” of His power, of His action

of the

which each warrior

of His legions, in

some extraordinary

gift.

And

he

tells

shall be

of the dates

age of general well-being

is

taken from an ancient Tibetan book, wherein,

under symbolic names, are given the future movements of the

Dalai-Lama and Tashi-Lama, which have already been

There are described the

whom

of rulers under

the country shall fall during the reign of the monkeys.

But afterwards

Someone

shall the rule

of greatness.

—which will be in When this earth

He was

•

•

The

Blessed

artist,

•

Thou

said

shalt take the

the artist

consented and desig-

artist

could not take the

hand trembled

Then

proached the Blessed One.

Buddha to depart from Dharmapala to bequeath

One

but the

exact measurements because his

And

•

asked by four lords of

nated the most worthy

reflection.”

calculated in twelve years

for the Blessed

mankind His image.

near the water.

is

1936.

came

the time

be regained and then will come

His coming

•

to

marks

special physical

fulfilled.

so

Buddha,

when he

ap-

“I shall stand

my

measurements from

was thus enabled

to

do

so,

and

exe-

cuted four images, modeled from a sacred alloy of seven metals.

Two are

of these images are

still

now

in

Lhasa and the remaining two

hidden until the appointed time.

One Tibetan

ruler married Chinese

and Nepal princesses

in

order that through them he might attract to Tibet the two sacred

images of Buddha.

Twelve hundred

Sambhava brought

years

after

closer to

Buddha, the

men [62]

teacher

Padma

the teachings of the Blessed

SIKHIM One.

At

the birth of

Padma Sambhava

the skies were aglow

all

The

and the shepherds saw miraculous tokens. Teacher was manifested

Sambhava did not

to the

world

eight-year-old

Lotus flower.

in the

new

die but departed to teach

Padma

Had

countries.

he not done so the world would be threatened with

disaster.

In the cave Kandro Sampo, not far from Tashi-ding, near a

Padma Sambhava

certain hot spring, dwelt

A

himself.

certain

giant, thinking to penetrate across to Tibet, attempted to build

a passage into the Sacred

and growing great

bold venturer.

And now

is

Padma Sambhava and behind this

it is

in the cave

a stone door.

their revelation

the image of

It is

known

so resonant a tone

?

The

in the

Buddhist temples have

ruler of Tibet decided to

summon from

from the place where dwelt the Blessed One,

a learned

lama, in order to purify the fundamentals of the teaching.

The High Lama of design of a new trumpet so

meet the guest?

vision,

that

have not yet come.

Wherefore do the giant trumpets

to

Thus

door the Teacher hid sacred mysteries for the future.

But the dates for

India,

up

Blessed Teacher rose

in height struck the

was the giant destroyed. behind

The

Land.

gave the

Tibet, having

How had

a

that the guest should

be received with unprecedented sound; and the meeting was a

wonderful one

—not by

the wealth of gold but by the grandeur

of sound! •

•

Why

do the gongs

volume?

And

•

•

•

in the temple ring out

as silver,

with such great

resound the gongs and

and evening, when the atmosphere

is

bells at

dawn

Their sound

tense.

re-

minds one of the legend of the great Lama and the Chinese emperor. the

Lama,

In order to the emperor

test

made

and covering them with

The Lama made

the

knowledge and clairvoyance of

for

him

a seat

from sacred books

fabrics, invited the guest to sit

certain prayers

and then

[63]

sat

down.

down.

The em-

ALTAI-HIMALAYA demanded

peror

how

could you

knowledge

of him, “If your

down on

sit

the sacred books?”

peror, instead of his sacred volumes,

The emperor thereupon gave But the

of liquid chime.

And

Lama.

sacred volumes,” answered the

to the

Lama

so universal,

is

“There are no

found only blank papers.

Lama many

indeed the waters carried to

him

chimes, clear as the waters of the

A

She said bring

it

him,

to

to

me

‘I

The

now.’

He

dog. silk

is

A

it

of Buddha.’

nought.

if

But the traveler

from

last

in the

espies the skull of a

in yellow

it

him,

old

in silk, saying, ‘This

it

the most sacred

And

glow with pure from

rites,

is

then

the tooth

the miracle rays

directing is

all

and many miracles and

it.”

searched for twelve years for Maitreya-Buddha.

As he walked along

his

her

accomplished.

where did he find him, and becoming angry, he faith.

home, he

his

woman asks of request, my son?’ He

The

wrapped

sacred manifestations result

A man

my

her holy of holies.

tooth begins to

will not

the mother puts the tooth into her shrine,

and performs before to

you

son went to Lhasa and again forgot

to the house.

And

to bring

But where can one find sacred objects

gives her the dog’s tooth

The

your eyes

half day’s journey

‘Have you forgotten again

worship

river.

decides to take out a tooth and folding

he brings

monastery.”

the bells, with their crystal

shall die here before

recalled the promise.

There

my

Buddha. But the youth forgot her request.

the mother’s request.

desert?

they are

If

mother many times asked her son

to her a sacred relic of

bells

ordered them to be thrown into

necessary to me, the river will bring these gifts to

“Talismans.

and

gifts

the river, saying, “I will not be able to carry these.

And

em-

the astonished

No-

rejected his

way he beheld one who with

a

horsehair was sawing an iron rod, repeating to himself, “If the

whole of fusion

life is

fell

not enough yet will

upon him —

I

saw

“What mean my [64]

this

through.”

Con-

twelve years,” he said,

SIKHIM “in the face of such persistence?

my

will return to

I

search.”

Thereupon Maitreya-Buddha himself appeared before the man and

said,

“Long

already have

I

been with you but you did

me and

not see me, and you repulsed

spat

upon me.

I

will

make a test. Go to the bazaar. I will be upon your shoulder.” The man went, aware that he carried Maitreya. But the men around him shrank from him, closing their noses and eyes. “Wherefore do you shrink from me, people?” he asked. “What a fright

you have on your shoulder

—an

ill-smelling

Again the people did not

boils!” they replied.

dog

The lama

—one

Now

can retain.

seeing.

“There are three kinds of teaching

says,

the stranger, one for our

who

Maitreya-

see

Buddha, for each beheld only what he was worthy of

full of

own, and the third

for

for the initiated

through ignorance they slaughter animals,

they drink wine, they have property and eat meat and live squalidly. is

Does

religion permit

teaching; where

The

is

all this ?

teaching, there

is

Where

beauty, there

beauty.

Your emotions and desires are Therefore know clearly what you desire. Buddha you shall behold the dog.

people here are sensitive.

transmitted so easily.

Otherwise instead of

That which

hidden in the past

is

is

not of importance

and unfinished,

which

in age-old books, copied

dust.

For the new construction, that which

into

is

life is

the living

important.

word

is

measured the

Under Kinchenjunga ing the treasures.

Not through

lies

now

—that

covered with resolves itself

library shelves but

through

possibility of future structures.

are secreted the caves in

which

are rest-

In stone coffins the cave dwellers are praying,

torturing themselves in the

name

of the future.

But the sun

already has defined the future; not in secret caves but in full sunlight one perceives the worship and expectation of Maitreya-

[65]

!

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Buddha.

It is

now

three years since the Tashi

New

and openly dedicated the great

The

intense, invisible

The Tashi Lama

is

work

Image

Incidentally,

it

may

solemnly

in his Tashi-lhunpo.

progresses.

now on

way

his

to

Unprecedented through the ages

China.

Lama

Mongolia by way of

is

Mystery!

this event.

be that through Sikhim passed only the ab-

ducting detachment and the

Lama

moved on

himself

to

Mon-

golia. •

On

•

morning upon

a sacred

•

•

•

mountain

the

started to

glow rows

of fire—another mystery! •

Just

now

the

wave

•

•

•

of attention

is

•

turned toward Tibet

—behind

the mountain rampart events are stirring, but Tibetan secrecy is

Information

great.

contradictory.

is

Whither disappeared the

Lama ? What military manoeuvers proceed on border? What transpires on the Mongolian line? Tashi

the Chinese

A

year of

events

Sikhim

called the land of lightning.

is

occurs lightning but steps”?

For

it

is it

not simpler to

would be

Of

call it

course, here also

“the land of future

imagine a better threshold

difficult to

to the mysteries of the future than this unexplored, rarely pene-

trated country of rocks

As behind

and

flowers.

on

a tiny silver apple

Himalayas reveal themselves.

steps of the

do the

a saucer,

hills

and

Hundreds, perhaps

more, are the monasteries in Sikhim, each crowning the top of a summit.

monastery

A in

small temple in

Rinchenpong.

gleaming white Pemayangtse, ding

is

almost unseen.

On

and opposite Robling and

Chakong;

Upon still

a big

the next

suburgan and

mountain appears

higher, Sanga Choling.

the other side of the valley still [

nearer Namtse.

66

]

is

Tashi-

Daling

For a distance

— SIKHIM of forty miles one

may behold

we must

the monasteries for

not

forget that here one sees extremely far.

And

again before us

is

And

the wall to Tibet.

bone of the lizard but the snow-white girdle the peaks of this wall

arrow northward

— there

upon

outlined

is

—the girdle of the earth.

not the back-

Let us point the

must be the base of Mount Meru.

The Talmud relates that the dove brought the first olive branch to Noah from Mount Moriah. And Mount Moriah and the mountain Meru both lie in Asia. Here is the beginning of all Here

things.

Here

the source for

is

raised the first

is

Muntazar.*

Here

Some one is

up the

in his ear,

Here above

his

and garbed

Don-dub, the

local

all

all

searchers.

—Messiah

disputes, the

new

branch of the

olive

world.

commune. and touched our

voluntarily approached

man, with

this

M!

ordained the universal

is

and

image of the Blessed Maitreya

Thrice powerful

teachings have raised

travelers

all

Who

tent!

long black braid and a turquoise earring in a

white kaftan?

We

ikon painter.

It is

the

Lama, Pema

“Can you

ask,

paint for

us the Blessed Maitreya, exactly like the one in Tashi-lhunpo?”

He

consents and

now

he

sits

on

a tiny

rug in the corner of the

white gallery, and with various pigments, paints the Image of symbols. it

He

prepares the fabric for the painting and covers

with lev\as (a mixture of chalk on glue), and irons

a shell.

full

He works

exactly like Russian ikon painters.

same way does he grind

his colors, heat

them on

a coal

with

it

In the

pan

;

and

thus does he keep an additional brush in his thick black hair.

His Tibetan wife helps him to prepare his colors.

And

so, in

the corner of the white gallery

the ingenious image, many-colored.

more like *

clearly defines the Blessed

One.

And

is

being conceived

each symbol upon

Here

is

the frightful bird-

Garuda and wise Magi and Ganeshi, elephant

Muntazar

—the

of happiness,

Messiah now awaited by the Mohammedans. [

67

]

it

ALTAI-HIMALAYA and Chintamani, the

Steed, bearing

stone, Treasure of the

World.

And upon

the

A

labors.

The

chants

And

laid

pure gold.

lama chants hymns fervent;

this

as

means he

when

the

waxing moon

one hears through the house the In the darkness the

he is

itself.

another wonder occurs, only possible in this land.

the deep twilight

flute.

is

artist

become more

beginning upon the Image

back the miraculous

its

sacred cycle of chosen symbols.

image and the hands

Like our ikon painters, the

on

possesses all things,

handmade upon his rug,

silvery tones of a

lama

artist

In

is

sitting

playing with rapture before the image of Maitreya-Messiah-

Muntazar.

The

Strings of the Earth!

Talai-Pho-Brang.

[

68

]

Part

III

PIR-PANZAL (1925)

have passed the hordes of the great Mongols

Where

Where

has the lost tribe of Israel concealed itself?

Where

“Throne of Solomon”? the religion of

Where

is

Where

demons?

Where

Jehangir?

Where

stands the

the paths of Christ the

Wan-

the bonfires of the Shamans, Bon-po, of

Where glow

derer?

lie

?

the mysterious cave,

Shalimar, the gardens of

Lhasa, Khotan?

of Pamir,

roads

the

are

is

Where is the path Where are the walls Where did Avan-

Amarnath?

of Alexander the Great to forgotten Taxila

?

Where did Ashvagosha teach? tisvamin create ? Where are the citadels of ChandraguptaMaurya? Where are the stones of wisdom of King Asoka? All have passed by way of Kashmir. Here lie the ancient ways

of

Akbar?

.

And

of Asia. great

East.

are the sandy deserts

on the way to Peshawar; and the

blue peaks of Sonamarg; and the white slopes of Zoji-La. in the flight of the eagles steed roses

is

the

.

each caravan flashes by as a connecting link in the

body of the

Here

.

is

the

same untiring

Nor

same unalterable motion.

And

spirit; in the fleet

does the world of

and shawls of Kashmir resemble that forgotten and hidden

world of Kashmiri blades. •

“Sacre

du Printemps”

Stravinsky,

with

its

we

•

•

•

—when

•

we composed

it

together with

could not conceive that Kashmir would greet us

very setting.

the vivid spring sky

In Ghari, camping out by night,

became

afire

[69]

with

stars

when

and the mountains

ALT AI-HI MALAYA were azured, we observed rows of

The

fires

Then

about.

into motion, separated

started

And

fiery processions.

began

mountain

the

and strangely

circles

circled

became aglow with

slopes

these

in the village below, dark silhouettes

on long

to whirl about brandishing resin torches

The flaming

proclaimed the end of winter

the songs proclaimed the Sacred Spring. the

upon the mountains.

fires

This

is

staffs.

And

frosts.

the festival of

Ninth of March. •

•

•

•

•

The cuckoo on the meadow

“Bulbul,” the nightingale, sings on the apple tree.

White

reckons out a long

life.

and

boiling.

a

samovar

is

linens are spread

Red and yellow

apples

and sweet

cakes are passed around to those seated upon the spring grass.

The eyes of the violets and the white and yellow woven into a many-hued carpet. At evening, flocks

narcissus are

of ducks

and

geese completely cover the tiny islands over the lakes.

Small

them

—unless

on the spring

bears steal out

the mother-bear

The

river

is

with her cubs.

.

.

.

Upon

tall

gleam often

In the sheds

lie

.

line of

And

is

this?

And

the teeth of the encoun-

The

sleighs.

straw roof

in

Schuya or Kolomna?

“City of the Sun.”

[

70

In the is

over-

the road are gnarled willow

Along

the greetings of the children are noisy.

Is it

steer their

oxen drag themselves

—veritable Moscow

yard, a crane screeches above the well.

trees.

boatsmen

in the smile of greeting.

the sleighs

grown with green moss.

fears

Three-hundred-year-old plantains

poplars guard the ways.

tered travelers

.

a broad road the

and the wheels grind along.

and

.

A

banks are sloping.

canopied boats.

But none

glades.

]

It is

But where

in Srinagar, in the

PIR-PANZAL Tiny, big-bellied steps of stone

pillars

—the

—small ornamental

designs

gilded roofs of the temple

—steep

—creaking,

little

orna-

—rusty locks—low doors with their “curtesy” — carved balustrades — slanting on stony — the odor of old lacquer— small windows with diminutive panes. mented window-shutters

little

floors

tiles

Where

are

we then?

Is this

How

Maharajah of Kashmir. mains from

Upon one

antiquity.'

the road are

sees the faces of

hang two of the

gazes

paintings

This

is

curious

these

of Yaroslavl?

What

daws?

of the endless flocks of

branches behind the windows?

Are

Kremlin of Rostov?

Are they the temples

the monasteries of Suzdal?

And what

the

of the

naked

the chief palace of the is

everything which

re-

But the modern additions are hideous.

many

Fords.

Americans.

In the hotel dining

room

In the jewelry shop, side-by-side,

—one of the view of Delhi, the other the view

Moscow Kremlin. Among the crystals into which one for destiny; among the sapphires of Kashmir and the

Tibetan turquoises, are shimmering green Chinese jadaites like a garden,

kaftans.

—and

many-colored are the borders of the embroidered

Like precious shawls the rooms of the

museum

are

strewn with minute Iran-designs and “Gandhara,” belabored by destiny, unifies the cleft branches of

West and

East.

In the styles of the temples and mosques; in the angular carved

dragons; in the tentlike, sloping hexagonal tower,

is

seen an

Norway drawn the Roman-

unexpected combination of the old wooden churches of

and the Chinese pagodas.

Out

of one well

is

esque Chimera, the animal ornaments of Altai and the tiny

animals of Chinese Turkestan and China. of the nations have carried afar the

The

fort of

Akbar

flights,

[7i]

Siberian paths

same meaning of adornment.

stands firmly planted.

climbed the steepnesses and

The

But

after

you have

you may perceive that the

ALTAI-HIMALAYA The

old bricks and the claybeaten cement barely hold together. arches are ready to give way. •

•

«

•

•

Nishad, the garden of Akbar, occupies the to the hill

—a

The

high place.

the corners are the

structures are

from the lake

site

modest and upon

towers so beloved by him.

little

They

are

characterized by simplicity and brightness.

Shalimar its

—the

garden of Jehangir

ants of the

Moguls

—of

that luxury

The

to poverty.

with

of outward show,

is less

which brought the descendlast

Mogul, in Delhi,

secretly

and destroyed the valuable

sold furniture out of the palace

ings of the walls of

also in character

is

There

possessor, standing “for itself.”

but more of luxury

—

fac-

Thus ended

Shah Jehan and Aurungzeb.

the great dynasty. •

•

•

•

•

Kashmir accompanied the making of each of Such a searching for rhythm his designs with a special chant. reminds us of the great harmony of labor.

The weaver

No this

of

song

relates

name.

This

why is

mountain “Throne of Solomon” bears

the

a place of such antiquity.

Janaka, son of

Asoka, had already dedicated here one of the

Seven centuries

temples. secrated

to

Solomon?

Mahadeva.

.

later the .

The mountain

a legend that

.

life

Buddhist

temple was rebuilt and con-

But whence comes the name of

received the

Solomon, desiring

of a sovereign’s

first

name

a respite

of

Solomon from

from the conventions

and from the burdens of

his

court, trans-

ported himself upon a flying carpet to this mountain with his favorite wife.

Here, again,

we come upon

“flying apparatus” possessed by is

in

Solomon.

Turkestan and in Persia.

[

72

]

the

A

mention of that

similar

mountain

PIR-PANZ AL It

is

not alone the mountain “Throne of Solomon” which In the valley

transports the consciousness into biblical spheres.

reverenced in a special manner.

of Sindh the prophet Elijah

is

Most

how

stirring are the legends;

saves fishermen

and

the prophet sitting in his cave

Under

travelers.

various aspects, at times

benevolent, at times stormy, the prophet appears to defend the

works of by

many

Purple

justice

and

Mohammedans and Hindus,

piety.

divided

differences, equally reverence the prophet Elijah.

Moslem

will always recall

iris

covered with these flowers.

have blossomed,

lilies

But there

cemeteries. also

is

joy.

They are The lilacs

nodding and the wild

of the valley are

cherry tree glistens.

After the “miniature design” of rests before the

modern Kashmir,

Martand and Avantipur.

ruins of

the ninth and tenth centuries have flowered.

One

ground of the sapphire mighty

massed hillocks conceal of the

may

might of Asia

be noted upon

its

the

back-

Himalayas, have stood

are but partly revealed.

entire palaces

and

cities.

The sloping, The spectacle

Gleams of

not yet revealed.

is

also,

Here the solemn

feels also that here, against the

foothills of the

They

structures.

Here,

Romanesque merges with

fantasy of the Asiatic cradle of the

joyous cult of Vishnu.

the eye

fragmentary pages.

it

Loving hands

only will

complete the beautiful realization. •

•

•

•

•

“Hail to Thee, Hakaura, our Horus,

God

of Existence, De-

fender of the Land, bridling the desert by the serpent of His Uraeus, dispatching the

arrow without the aid of the bow,

does the Goddess Sekhmet.

Asians to Third.

flight.”

Two

row without

The

So speaks the

king’s

hymn

in

word would turn

as

the

honor of Senusert the

phrases have a special meaning: “Shooting the ara

bow”

— action at a distance.

“Bridler of the desert

—reminds

one of the most an-

by the serpent of His Uraeus” [

73

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA cient cult of Asia

—the wife and

The

serpent.

snakelike capitals

of the pillars of Asia

and of the Mayans speak of the same

cult of the wise wife.

The

the same tale: In the middle

magic flower

in his hand.

and

of hands, dark

Before the king

is

light,

a

is

a multitude

And

heads.

As

the king of serpents with the

with a veiled head, and to her the

the background to this entire group

which have

of snakes

around

sits

tells

The king is endowed with two pairs because wisdom has a complete armor.

woman

king entrusts wisdom.

Kashmir

old plaque found in

image

central

this

risen

and united

is

their

procession

a

of

individual figures of rulers each wearing around his neck the

image of the like

and animal-like

ancient sign.

This sign of wisdom forces the human-

serpent.

and help the owners of the

djins to serve

Into a long trumpet far-off the djins transmit mes-

Djins bring flowers for the adornment of

sages.

life.

the guise of animals, transport themselves through the

They

bring caskets with gems.

So

nels.

is

air.

They

are present in the guise of senti-

preserved the ancient symbol of wisdom.

“Gulidjan-Marda”

—thus

Djins, in

—“Illo-Aladin-Shabasha”—“Illaila-Suleiman” Oars with corded blades

the rowers call to each other.

cut the yellow waters, •

•

•

•

•

Modern Srinagar is not more than one hundred and fifty to two hundred years old. Of the ancient “City of the Sun” nothing remains. The old mosque remains only as a shell. In the ugly

rivets of the

“wharf” are seen

excellent stones of the ninth

traces of the reliefs of the

and eleventh

separate fragments; nothing binds

centuries.

them with

There are

the dirty small

houses of the present day.

The

old bridges must soon crumble.

canals of

Kashmir?

hedges

Was

?

this

Who

Who

originated the

lined the roads with so

many

poplar

not done by some of the nomads from Central [

74

]

PIR-PANZAL where winter

Asia,

where canals

necessitates the

needed for irrigating the sands?

are

—the

these shi\ara

light,

gondolalike boats

Along the even bank one

And

the yellow banks

The

river

Vular

Jhelum

is

paths,

and

Where

did

—originate? end of the tow-rope.

travels at the

remind one of the Volga or the

Mississippi.

the nerve of Kashmir.

the largest lake, the most beautiful and

is

the most

For two nights our boat was dangerously driven against

stormy.

We

the clay bank.

working

On

marking of the

there,

this lake

should

were

it

everything

have remained there,

still

not that the “ark” might have cracked. is

Panzal, glimmering with

Toward

so attractive.

To

snows.

its

To

the massive mountains.

the west

is

Pir-

the north and east are

the south stretch the distances of

Srinagar.

Before sunset an astonishing Valhalla

Pir-Panzal,

and

in the

be

still

morning the

up over

rises

eastern mountains are crystal

blue.

Upon

the sandbanks flocks are herding and each horse

visible

upon

the far-off bank, so unusually transparent

Near the

eastern

bank

the ruins of a temple,

is

is

the

is

air.

seen a small island on which stand

and often the

fakirs

The world

meditation are seated there.

and the sadhus

of religion

is

less

in

ap-

parent in Kashmir.

The

details of the

ported into any far,

ruined temple on the island could be trans-

Romanesque

and everywhere sowed the seeds of

ment

of the

women’s caps

instead of red

enamel we •

Around hoopoes

resounds.

•

•

Above

•

•

swallows.

little

On

deck, the

the fields the song of the skylark

In the center of the village

a chapel with a green, tentlike roof.

tains are standing

The adorn-

see red glass inlaid in copper.

strewn with stones, like our northern is

their style.

the Gothic fibula save that

recalls

the boat soar lovely

strut about.

Goths wandered

cathedral, for the

is

a cemetery

zjalnil{.

75

]

hillock

the hillock

Venerable, scrawny plan-

guard over the quietude. [

Upon

—a

Near the

villages

— ALTAI-HIMALAYA and “town-sites”

are the remains of temples

in

ruins

—sandy

mounds with their sand-strewn antiquity. Toward evening the rowers commence their drawling songs “like the burla\s.” And packs of dogs pierce the air with their howls. From the far

—

North

distant It is

South one finds the same structure of

to the

amazing! •

•

On

the northeast of

this pass there

a

is

•

•

•

Lake Vular the mountains converge.

kind of compelling power. The

pur, has quite an individual character,

to the mountains, turns the road first

ascent

and when you reach the

lies

gleams white a

new

first

as a

gateway.

summit

up

to

Upon camp. Then on,

rising path.

night

down

into

narrow

Ladak

strip,

afterwards sinking far

and Chitral is

difficult,

Each turbaned

after

are especially guarded.

them.

The Russian words

A

If

then Gilgit and Chitral are

Violet and purple rocks; and

snow

peaks,

rider attracts one’s attention;

is

Each pack of loaded ponies

he not perhaps from the North?

draws one’s eye

pass

still

positively forbidding.

beautifully blue.

first

Here,

site.

along the very edge where the snow

Gilgit

the road toward

the

is

You

Gilgit.

and watch the windings of the

the peak of the very the path

to

In

Banda-

village,

post office you can understand the importance of the

the

life.

significant corner!

sandu\, \araul, samovar, tchai, chapra\,

sudi-sudi, kavarda\, \olpa \*

—and

many

other words, resound

strangely but distinctly in the speech of Kashmir.

The

braided

bark-shoes remind one of other northern paths.

The boatman is preparing a Kashmiri dinner for us. Six cooks arrive. The table is strewn with blue iris. Since morning, except for tea, we have received nothing. Sobra, his brother Ramsana, * Trunk, help, tea-kettle, tea, horse-blanket, here-here, upside down, pointed cap. [

76

]

— ANZ AL

PI R-P

Ibrahim and other unknown brothers and uncles are here

skillful

—and

even perhaps the hundred-year-old grandfather himself

sitting

with his hookah in the kitchen-boat.

themselves over some mystery. the

Finally, at seven in the evening

makes

dinner

mysterious

All are busying

its

Twenty-seven

appearance.

The sum of Almond soup,

courses are served in turn and each has to be tasted. the inventiveness of this sextet of cooks comprises:

Namki

polaw, Mehtee, Tabak Maz, Kabab,

Roogan Yosch,

Kurma, Abgosh, Alubukhar Kurma, Chana Kurma, Marzewangan Kurma, Subzee Kurma, Namki Kabab Akhtabi, Koofta, Koofta Tikea, Dampokhta Kokarpootoo, Kandee Roogan Yosch, Metla polaw, Thula Shoom, Rewash, Methazoont, Metha Thool, Deesee Alu, Plireenee, Thula Halwa Dupiaz,

Batha

—thus

termed

is it

ner

is

possible to is

this apotheosis of tell

them

And how

spices.

that just the ingeniousness of the din-

so foreign to us!

men

Kashmiri singing: Seven with long

sitara.

skilled one, before

and

mutton and

in the center a

Three have

two

saazes.

tables.

woman

in white turbans,

one red-headed,

Further on

At the corner

singer, in blue

sits

the most

two

are

shawl and

singers,

silver brace-

They sing songs of Persia and Arabia; Urdu and Kashmiri songs. And, as in the reliefs of Assyria, the woman raises her forefinger or her left palm or crosses her hands

lets

and

strings of beads.

—

—

upon her temples. Sometimes like a “duckling” she jumps up and softly runs around the circle. The Persian song “Suram” The “Shakhis the song of farewell and eternal remembrance. naz,” the Arabian song:

“The

richest

with him beyond the grave.” all servitors

friends

—

it

The world

extolled him.”

matters not is

naught

how

—and

the Kashmiri song, says:

Or:

And distant

one will not carry

“When

the song of

Urdu

77

runs:

“Two

—will think the same thoughts.

“Thou walkest upon [

wealth

Christ ascended

must depart from

all

his

]

it.”

“Kochur,”

the road but art

— ALTAI-HIMALAYA Thou

not visible to me.

away from me.

man

one

the wine of

behold

already

I

manner

all

of words.

Better

was

and walkest

“If

the

“Kamach,” the Kashmiri song, runs: “They of Christ in

life

Everything depends on God.”

woman,

or

me

gavest

entire

I

see but

world.”

say their praises

He

than sun and

moon.”

And

on

thus,

cord, glorify Christ

and creation

Following them,

the

all

boatmen move

And

and over

in

And

forest.

their

own

ac-

hour of midnight.

until the

turbans and sway as they chant.

whispers of the

Moslems, of

a red carpet, eight

in time with the white

the saazes drone like the

our Confucian Chinese repeats over

And

Tibetan ya\podu, meaning “good.”

Victrola resounds with Rimsky-Korsakoff’s

“Song

then the

of Lei,” sung

by Chaliapin, and the turbans of the Kashmiris nod understand-

There

ing^. the

is

And the entire And what has

“Song of Akbar.”

out the least friction. is

The program

one consciousness!

finishes

with

midnight has passed withbeen mutually understood

accepted with a kindly smile.

Can one change such letters

mawling grimace?

Can one

flesh.

Of

course

it

banality.

One can

were shown the

One can

is

substitute for the smile

not

One can

invoke a whole horror of ugliness. of universal good.

We

sent to the natives by foreigners

which were

shameful questions of the the

of understanding into the

Possibly one can.

vulgarity of ugliness?

shameful

communion

a

difficult.

One can

destroy this feeling

depart with the impress of searing

always go into the darkness of ignorance and

prejudice. •

As

in Sikhim, so in

understanding. thoughts, gesture.

when

One one’s

•

•

•

Kashmir, one

•

is

amazed by the

spiritual

has hardly enough time to crystallize one’s

companion has made

And how many

fine thoughts

the intuition! [

78

]

his

complementary

one can sow by way of

—

PIR-PANZAL Once again rhythmically the rowers call to each other “Amposch-pamposch” “Dazgir-Kashmir” “Shahan-Shah-PadiShah.” And the meaning of these calls is “The land of roses,” “The temple,” “King of Kings,” “Lotos,” “Man,” and “All is

—

—

well.”

.

.

.

*

We

live

on the

•

•

•

•

The storms, continuous, days in succession. The hailstones are the The stars are like candles. And each week

foothills of Pir-Panzal.

blinding, last three size of dove’s eggs.

there are earthquakes.

In Siberia, upon the steep hillocks are similar town-sites girdled

by thundering these dwellings

and high above glimmer the white caps of the

Here

mountains.

Cedar and pine groves austerely guard

torrents.

musk-

are woodpeckers, turtle-doves, orioles,

In just this same way,

deer and mountain-goats.

yellow, unpainted sturdy house.

wdth evergreen, but

if

there

is

If

storm

there .

.

sun,

is

we

live in the

all

is

fragrant

For three days

.

it

thun-

dered and the glare of lightning blinded one cruelly during the

Rings of lightning!

night. hail

The gushing

suddenly blanched the green

The

series

rains

poured down, and

What

hills.

a storm!

“Banners of the East” unfolded:

Conqueror before the spring of

life.

2.

i.

Moses the

Buddha the Leader upon

the summit, surrounded by the glory of the heavens.

the Builder, laboring with his the traveler in exile. elers rise

(Japan).

6.

5.

stood facing

forces.

4.

Confucius the

Just,

Yen-No-Guyo-Dja, Friend of the Trav-

Milarepa, the

comprehending the

who

own

Sergius

3.

One

Who

voices of the Devas.

Mahakala himself.

8.

Hearkened 7.

—

at

sun-

rDorje the Daring,

Sahara the Beneficent

Arrow, never slackening

in

Mohammed upon Mount

Hira (the message of the Archangel

Gabriel).

10.

upon the lake

missions

its

of

benevolence.

9.

Nagarjuna, Conqueror of the Serpent, beholding the vision of the Ruler of the Nagi. [

79

]

11.

Oirot the

ALTAI. HIMALAYA Messenger of the White Burkhan, the legend of those already in the

of Christ.

14.

17. Chalice.

Museum:

Lao-Tze.

18.

15.

12.

The Ancient

In Mongolia there

is

a

Mother of the World.

Tsong-kha-pa.

In

would ascend

moments the high

white paper horses

scatter

horse as a symbol of Buddha, of strength and happiness. these steeds of Valkyrie, the resplendent horses,

out, whirling,

and carrying help

Procopius was wont to

sit

to the

unknown

would

float

stricken ones.

on the Dvina blessing the unknown

and these lamas upon the mountain ridges of Asia

seafarers:

have sent horses to the the

Signs

Padma Sambhava.

custom of great antiquity.

mountain and with conjurations would

And

13.

Serpent.

of national disaster or danger, the lamas

—the

16.

And

Altai.

Unknown

is

In this sending to

far-off stricken ones.

seen the same concern for the general happiness.

Such customs of lamas

This

is

not “sitting beneath

a tree,” nor requests flung into space ; not the

ornamental gestures

of a ritual

—a

;

but a

are precious.

“command”

for help to the far-off stricken ones

heavenly voice demanding that

Two

human

ills

be alleviated.

other touching images must not be forgotten: Mani, the

founder of so-called Manicheism, in the third century was crucified

upon

the gates of the city in Persia for his belief in the

synthesis of teaching

and for

his idea of the

Guru Kambala, gave his head and service and Kambala and horses, in

other one,

—

as a

Commune.

The

symbol of devotion

their essence,

both enter

into the “Banners of the East.”

Manicheism

lived long.

In Italy

existed until the fourteenth century.

itself,

Manicheans, persecuted,

Perhaps

it is

from them

Benozzo Gozzoli adopted the themes of the Pisan

that

frescoes, of

the four encounters of the Prince Siddhartha-Buddha,

which

Hindu

Ruler,

enlightened there

is

his

consciousness.

Instead

a cavalcade of Italian signori.

[80]

of

And

the

in certain Eastern

—

somewhere from the depths

conceptions, as

if

one perceives

the

sumptuous ornate rocks and blankets and the East

sit

What

with

The

it?

is

“Pardus” of

Or

(insignia) of cru-

more

has the

ancient organiza-

believers, penetrated

How many

consciousness of East and West.

How many

sur-

echoes of crusades, about which even

Mani

tion of synthesis, of

his

his gilded horse-

Tamed

upon the coat-of-arms

as

Herri met de Bles dreamt?

festations!

Gozzoli with

behind the saddles, and the turban gracefully

rounds the helmet, saders.

his pine trees;

bearing vivid banners.

staffs

of understanding,

of

fantasy

characteristic

—

and linked the

unexplained mani-

How many

names slandered!

truly

enlightened researches are buried into one heap with the cast-off

Future studies and researches must be undertaken in an

refuse.

unprejudiced

Another

spirit

with an eye only to truth and

and West:

detail linking East

Do

you remember the

Turfan Mother of the World, with the child?

image

justice.

Perhaps Nestori-

Or

ans or Manicheans

left

more

image has remained, transmitted from times

still

correctly, this

more remote.

many

this

The

culable.

Not toward

this

of

concealed the wife is

already incal-

the page of the Bible, not toward the sym-

image point: Continents no longer

molded the beauty

light-bearing essence.

knowledge of

is

antiquity of the symbol

bols of the Kabala, does this

existing have

Kwan Yin—who knows how

Behind them

ages old they are?

and the serpent.

or

Kali,

in the center of Asia.

of the

Mother of the World

Only ignorance

insists

on the lack

antiquity. •

You may wonder how we

•

•

•

•

fare without theaters.

But we have

—only without a stage, in actual Perwith theater — legends about unheard-of peoples;

drama here each day haps a Chinese

life.

perhaps the threatening monologue of the policeman; perhaps the

ill-omened ballet of the Kashmiri merchants [

81

]

Schaitans;

ALTAI-HIMALAYA perhaps the drama of a boat beaten by the waves; perhaps the procession of horses or the peaceful evening songs, or a furioso

Nor does one have to hang frayed curtains, nor must one make up one’s face, when the whole world participates in the mystery of evolution; when renewed understanding triumphantly enters into life, in new creations of uniof hail and earthquake.

versal beauty.

In Mongolia the march was proclaimed by the sending of an

And

arrow to the Prince-noyon. to

Feodor-Tyron

also

came from the •

George and

I

rides

on horses

the arrow which

•

•

•

came

East. •

upon a horse from Yarkand; and from Khotan. My horse has a star;

the Chinese the

Yarkand

horse bears a Chinese brand, the cross within a square of the coat of arms of Tian.

[82]

flying

—a

sign

Part IV

LADAK (i9 2 5) Indra,

Agni and Surya

—

air,

Trimurti-Trinity remains behind.

Vedas, the great Ind, leads us to is

as a greeting

—the

seat,

and the sun!

fire

its

The

ancient Sarasvati of the

snowy

contemplation

motion, unswervingness, impetuosity. unfailing have been the ways of the

The Hindu

sources.

—then

the

Ganges

the Ind suggests

And how

movement

If

alluring

and

of nations through

Hindu-Kush and Pamir!

the

Again

The

a caravan.

Again, days and dates are readily forgotten.

character of the day becomes

or name.

Like the Egyptians

more important than

who named

its

number

the years according

— to their qualities “the year of or “the year of lean crops” —one marks only the quality of the days. Perhaps, the day of the horse—when the mounts through the snowy bridge; the night of a wolf—when the packs stealthily approached the camps; the dawn of the eagle — when the golden eagle with a whir of wings sped upon the tent; the sunset of the —when as battle,”

fell

castle

though sprung from the arose unexpectedly.

fiery

copper peak, the vision of a

In place of a turban, from out the stone

—the

there rose before us the shaggy cap of

castle

way toward

the land

Buddha.

The

qualities of

Buddha

are as follows: Sakya

Blessed;

Saddha

—the

wise

— Sakya the lion; Bhagavat Teacher; Jina — the Conqueror.

one of the clan of Sakya; Sakyasinha

—the

Muni — the

[83]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Thus spoke Buddha are degraded

and

to the zealots

and hypocrites: “Your

One among you walks naked;

ridiculous.

another will not begin to eat from a pitcher or to

two companions or two dishes. Annot accept alms from the house where lives a pregnant

other will

two

platter, or refuses

the table between

sit at

woman

rules

or

vessels

where he encounters and

Some

a dog.

will not eat

from

One

gulp refrain from eating.

at the seventh

One lies naked upon thorned plants or upon cow’s dung. What do you expect, voluntary workers, for your ‘hard’ labors? You await alms and respect from the laity and when you achieve this reward, you not

will

sit

upon

bench or mat.

a

—

become deeply wedded do not

desire to

temporary

to the comforts of the

When

renounce them.

you

see visitors

life

and

approach-

ing from a distance you immediately assume the appearance of

having been discovered offered coarser victuals

yourself

all

in

profound meditation.

you hand them on to

you assume the mask of modesty.

sion;

Not

you are

keeping for

others,

You succumb

the dainty morsels.

When

to vices

and

such,

the true

is

pas-

asceticism.”

It

took Buddha six years to convert Kashyapa.

the fires of altars

which were strange

ness of the set convictions of

Buddha could add whenever beauty,

to

new

scientific

to

him

He

even

lit

before the stubborn-

Kashyapa could be broken, and

teaching the “old authority.”

For

reason and vital enlightenment are

invoked, the “old fortresses” are especially invulnerable.

One

down

preju-

must

realize all the difficulties of

dices, if

it

Buddha

took six years for one

man

in breaking

to absorb the beautiful

simplicity before he could extinguish the useless fire of unnecessary superstitious offerings.

His was the task to to see

how under

live for eighty years constantly teaching;

one’s very eyes the teaching

[84]

was perverted;

to

LADAK realize

how many

rulers

and

priests accepted the teachings

only

new

con-

out of self-interested motive; to foresee the shells of a ventionality already prepared.

He who

.

.

contained within himself the understanding of the

uselessness of power, exclaimed: tion is

.

and benevolence

“Go, oh beggars, carry

In the one word, “beggars,”

to the people.”

The time

contained his complete gospel.

salva-

has

come when from

out the gilding of the idol there stands forth the image of

Buddha, the great intoxication

and

moning men

teacher,

who

preaches against killing, against

This powerful image appears, sum-

excesses.

to a revaluation of values, to labor

and

to achieve-

ment.

Many

times the teaching of

Buddha was

purified, but

again quickly covered with the soot of prejudices. disfigured into a heap of treatises clature.

Why,

it

Its vitality

was

was

and of metaphysical nomen-

then, be astonished

if

there

still

remain erect

the walls of the monastery of Lamayuru, stronghold of the faith of

Bon-po with

birth of

Shaman

its

invocations,

founded long before the

Buddha?

Nevertheless this brought about a healthy realization: they be-

came accustomed the

heralded

to purify the teachings.

Of

course

synods in Rajagriha, Vaisali and

it

was not

Patna which

brought back the teachings to their original simplicity of the

community.

But strong-spirited individual teachers sincerely

tried to reveal again the beautiful

image of the teaching: Atisha,

defeating convention, wrestled with the somber survival of the sorcery of Bon-po.

Ashvagosha, the creator of the entire Ma-

hayana of the north, applied the form of dramatic productions for the sake of conviction

and

visualization.

The bold Nagarjuna

wisdom on Lake Yum Tso from his discourses with Nagi, “King of Serpents.” The Tibetan Orpheus, Milarepa, surreaped

[85]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA rounded by animals, hearkened

Padma Sambhava conquered

mountains.

—powerful Caps.

The

figure,

and

clear

figures

Tsong-kha-pa was beloved of the

active

—who

the forces of nature

by the conventions of the Red

distorted

Yellow Caps.

entire north as founder of the

—solitary

to the prophetic voices of the

And many

others

understood the predicted evolution and

purged the gospel of Buddha from the dust of conventional forms.

Their works, again, were covered by the musty layer of

mechanical

The

ritual.

conventional

mind

of the

“man

of every-

day,” though he accepted the teaching of Buddha, tried to clothe it

with

his

own

prejudiced understanding.

Neither from Alara Kalama, or from Uddaka Ramaputta could

Buddha toward

find reality,

a

saving

The

decision.

could not be

satisfied

reformer,

who

strove

by the misinterpretations

Buddha walked far off to the secret places of the mountains. The legends bring the bold searcher even to Altai and the legend of the White Burkhan is being preserved upon Altai in all its reality. Near the mysterious Uruvela, Buddha approaches the simplest expression of all his attainments. of the Rig-Veda.

—

And on to

the shores of Naranjana he

is

illumined by the decision

pronounce the words concerning general welfare: of the

re-

nunciation of the personal, of the significance of labor for the general well-being, and of the meaning of knowledge. lish a scientific

approach

to religion

was

To

estab-

a true attainment.

To

expose the self-interested priests and Brahmins was the summit of fearlessness.

was

difficult

To

reveal the true levers of hidden

human

forces

beyond expression.

In the conception of the evolution of humanity, the figure of

Buddha, the Enlightened One, takes an unquestionably beautiful place.

[

86

]

LADAK Buddha had

hear bodily the tremor of destruction of his

to

Confucius had to tread the path of

native city, Kapilavastu. exile

from place

Temple

placed in a

ments.

not to be wondered

It is

remember

which he wandered

his cart in

is

together with his works and musical instru-

teachings of Confucius us

And

to place.

the

lies

his teachings:

at,

because at the base of the

same idea

“When

Let

of cooperation.

the hearts of mortals shall be

kindled by love, then the whole world will be as one family. All

men

and the same element.” .

.

“He who

.

.

.

.

man and

of his neighbor.”

“Hypocrisy

is

the

as

one

most hateful

who

in the

daytime appears

as

an

night busies himself with stealing the goods

at .

by virtue

only covers himself by the semblance of

virtue resembles an evil-doer

honest

things,

all

mutual order and union, will appear

of the astonishing

vice.”

one man, and

will in themselves be

.

.

“Beware of those who make themselves the exponents of virtue rather than

its

Be not deceived by

followers.

their scientific argu-

For although they may be understood

ments.

as the expression

of the soul’s convictions, they are nevertheless only the fruits of

a corrupt

mind and

the intellectually corroded impulses of the

heart.

Those who discourse with apparent

mility,

on general well-being, are not always examples of those

virtues.”

.

.

and

art,

in

attire,

steadfastness,

the prescribed virtues.”

.

.

.

.

“The

comes for others a

there

of

righteousness,

goodness, are

arts.

Apply the precepts of

avaricious one, himself being restless, be-

terrifying

dictate thy actions.”

“To

the pursuit

.

“Acquire science and the fine .

propriety,

aversion to flatterers, love of the humble, lack

of greed, prudence,

wisdom.”

on hu-

.

“Temperance, simplicity science

sensitiveness

.

.

and disgusting

object.

Let prudence

.

discriminate between men, whether they be good or evil, is

no

better

way than

to look into the pupil of the eye;

[87]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA because the pupil of the eye cannot conceal the vice which

hidden in the heart.”

“Do to

not

the

let

.

.

.

humble ones

feel

your high position nor display

your equals the preeminence of your merits.”

“There

finally

I

I

.

.

.

nothing which cannot be obtained by persistence.

is

Each day

can bring a basket of earth, and

up

shall raise

“Man must become

mountain.”

a

.

.

if

persist in

I

The laws

of the

.

rents, influencing

and

.

.

impeding

.

.

action of heaven

effects great

.

movements

of constellations are carried out simultaneously without

each other.”

it,

.

the coworker of heaven and earth.”

“All beings nurture each other.

“The

is

and earth

divided into endless cur-

is

each being individually; their general action

transformations

—therein

the greatness of heaven

is

earth.”

“Conscientiousness,

humaneness

and valor

versal qualities; but in order to apply

are

them, sincerity

“The man who has not determined

his destination

three is

uni-

needed.”

cannot be

considered a great man.”

panacea for

“Is there not a

Do

humanity?

all

that exists?

Is this

not love to

not do unto another what you do not wish for

yourself.” “If a

can govern himself, what

man

difficulty

could he en-

counter in governing a state?”

“A

sage

is

firm but not stubborn.”

.

.

.

“Be slow in words and

quick in action.”

“A from

wise one expects

all

from himself; the mediocre one,

all

others.”

“I love the

glow

of virtue

which does not proclaim

loud words and pompous movements.

prides himself

on

his

nonentity, the one desiring freedom excessively, [

88

]

in

Noise and proclamations

are secondary things in the reformation of peoples

“The ignorant one who

itself

”

knowledge, the

men who

return

Museum,

Roerich

JUST

Scries)

East

THE

the

of CONFUCIUS

(Banners

Roerich

Nicholas

by

painting

a From

LADAK to the ancient customs, all are subject to unavoidable misfortunes.”

“An

archer provides an example for a sage.

When

he does

not reach the center of the target he searches for the cause within himself.”

Proclaiming the general well-being, Confucius was compelled

have his cart of

to

Our

hand.

flight ever at

.

.

.

These

old Chinese speaks in whispers about Confucius.

old thoughts seem like the footprints of ancient Chinese travelers,

who

have given us so

much

useful information about India

and

Central Asia.

all

•

If

•

•

•

•

behind the present idol of Buddha

the lofty image of

Buddha

it

is

the Teacher, then

difficult to perceive it is still

more unex-

pected to hear in Tibetan mountains beautiful words about Jesus.

Yet Buddhists preserve the teachings of reverence to Jesus

who

There have been to Egypt.

But

been in India

is it

about the Christ

about a second

visit

too completely that such legends

in the

how many

in the so-called

all

parts of

Apocryphal legends they spread

And

then,

how much

truth

is

veiled

Apocryphal legends!

Many remember is still

so-called

most ancient times.

what

Asia, probably does not realize

life exist in

an immense influence the Nestorians have had in Asia and

of Christ

incredible that after that, he could have

Whoever doubts

?

and lamas pay

passed and taught here.

distinct glimpses

why

Jesus,

the lines

more wonderful

from the book of Notovitch, but

to discover,

on

it

this site, in several variants,

same version of the legend of Issa. The local people know nothing of any published book but they know the legend and

the

with deep reverence they speak of relation still

Issa.

One might wonder what

Moslems, Hindus or Buddhists have with

more

significant to see

how

Issa.

vital are great ideas

they penetrate even the most remote places.

[89]

But

and

it is

how

Never may one

ALTAI-HIMALAYA discover the source of such legends.

But even

from ancient Nestorian Apocrypha,

at present

see the

it is

instructive to

Hindu,

how

relate

preached beside a small pool near the bazaar under a great

Issa tree,

which now no longer

dications

you may

see

how

Legends say that

•

•

working and poor

ones.

regarded.

by the Jewish people

killed

Roman

government.

Teacher

killed the Great

is

•

•

was not

Jesus

but by representatives of the

and the wealthy

In such purely physical in-

exists.

seriously this subject

•

the

they originated

widespread and deep consideration paid to the subject.

significant to hear a local inhabitant, a

It is

if

The path

who

The empire

carried light to

of attainment of light!

Let us hearken to the way in which they speak of Jesus in

which have the estimated antiquity of many

Asia: In the legends centuries,

it

is

related that Issa (Jesus) secretly left his parents

and together with the merchants of Jerusalem turned toward the Indus to become perfected in the highest Teaching. It is

“He

related that,

passed his time in several ancient

of India such as Benares.

All loved

peace with Vaishas and Shudras

him

whom

cities

because Issa dwelt in

he instructed and helped.

“But the Brahmins and Kshatriyas told him that Brahma

for-

womb

and

bade those to approach feet.

who were

The Vaishas were allowed

created out of his

to listen to the

Vedas only on

holidays and the Shudras were forbidden not only to be present at the

reading of the Vedas, but could not even look at them.

“Issa said that tions.

man had

In order to pay

ficed his fellows in

Man demeans

filled the

homage

temples with his abomina-

to metals

board.

stones,

man

sacri-

whom

dwells a spark of the Supreme Spirit.

who

labor by the sweat of their brows, in

those

order to gain the good will of the sluggard set

and

But they

who

who

sits at

the lavishly

deprive their brothers of the

blessing shall be themselves stripped of [

90

]

it.

common

“Vaishas and Shudras were asked what they could perform. the idols.

Do

neighbor.

Help the poor. Sustain

Do

with astonishment and

struck Issa

not consider yourself

bade them ‘Worship not

Do

first.

not humiliate your

Do

the feeble.

no one.

evil to

not covet that which you do not possess and which

is

pos-

But

Issa,

sessed by others.’

“Many, learning of such words, decided forewarned, departed from

to kill Issa.

by night.

this place

“Afterward, Issa went into Nepal and into the Himalaya mountains.”

“

.

.

.

‘Well, perform for us a miracle,’

the Temple.

Then

Issa replied to

appearance from the very day

who

cannot behold them

is

when

demanded

them: ‘Miracles made the world

should

attest his

with one’s

become

a pure

make human because

all is

men should own eyes but

and worthy offerings,

to feel

soul.”

ye,

.

you await that

if

.

it

.

with the heart, and

“Not only

shall

to

you not

Do

not

steal

the goods

would be usurpation from your near one.

may in turn who divert men from

not be cheated.”

Issa said:

the true path and

the people with superstitions and prejudices, of the seeing ones,

life.

but you must not slaughter animals,

not cheat, that you

“Beware,

He

not strive to behold the Eternal

given for the use of man.

of others, because that

Do

created.

power by miracle.”’

“Issa taught that Spirit

was

their

deprived of the greatest gift of

But woe to you, enemies of men, woe unto you,

He

the servitors of

who

who

fill

blind the vision

and who preach subservience

to

material

things.”

Upon

his return to the land of Israel, Issa taught:

“Do

not

be subject to despair; do not desert your homes; do not defile the nobility of your feelings; be patience.

imbued with hope and with

Raise up the fallen and sustain the hungry; succor

the ailing in order that you be entirely pure and just last

day which

I

am

preparing for you.

[9i]

If

upon

that

you would perform

ALTAI-HIMALAYA deeds of benevolence and love, perform them with a generous

And

heart.

there not be in these deeds the hope of gain or

let

any calculations of

The

profit.”

“Then

legends continue thus:

Pilate, ruler of Jerusalem,

gave orders to lay hands upon the preacher

him

Issa

and

to deliver

to the judges, without however, arousing the displeasure

of the people.”

“But

Issa

taught: ‘Do not seek straight paths in darkness,

But gather force and support each other.

possessed by fear.

who

supports his neighbor strengthens himself.

“

tried to revive the laws of

‘I

And

He

you that you do not understand

say unto

I

Moses in the hearts of the people. their true

ing because they do not teach revenge but forgiveness.

meaning

“Then

of these laws

is

distorted.’

mean-

But the

”

the ruler sent to Issa his disguised servants that they

should watch his actions and report to him about his words to the people.” “

‘Thou

just

man,’ said the disguised servant of the ruler of

Jerusalem approaching

Issa,

‘Teach

us,

should

we

fulfill

the will

of Caesar or await the approaching deliverance?’

“But foretell I

Issa,

recognizing the disguised servants,

said,

did not

‘I

unto you that you would be delivered from Caesar; but

said that the soul

which was immersed

in sin

would be

deliv-

ered from sin.’”

“At

this time,

pushed back.

Then

universe; in her

of

that

all

death.

is

Upon

an old

lies

woman

Issa said,

approached the crowd, but was

‘Reverence

Woman, mother

the truth of creation.

good and

She

beautiful.

is

She

is

of the

the foundation

the source of

life

and

her depends the existence of man, because she

She gives birth

the sustenance of his labors.

she watches over your growth.

Bless her.

to

you

Honor

is

in travail,

her.

Defend

her.

Love your wives and honor them, because to-morrow they

shall

be mothers, and

later

—progenitors of a whole [

92

]

race.

Their

LADAK man, soothes the embittered heart and tames the Wife and mother they are the adornments of the uni-

love ennobles

—

beast. verse.’

“

‘As light divides

itself

man good

the gift to divide in

Your

best thoughts

from darkness, intent

must belong

to

so does

woman

from the thought

woman.

possess

of evil.

Gather from them

your moral strength, which you must possess to sustain your

Do not humiliate her, for therein you will humiliate yourselves. And all which you will do to mother, to wife, to widow or to another woman in sorrow — that shall you also do near ones.

for the Spirit.’

“So taught to

make

Issa;

but the ruler Pilate ordered one of his servants

accusation against him.

“Said Issa: ‘Not far hence

when by

the time

is

the Highest

Will the people will become purified and united into one family.’

“And

dignity and teach thy subordinates to live

without

this

thou couldst also have had the means of accusing

an innocent one ?’

Thus

”

the legends of Asia

ennobled and near to

And

Buddha

teachings of Jesus and

But beautiful

expressed so clearly.

Who

will lessen

life ?

And

it

it

is

Asia preserves in

its

not astonishing that the

are leading all nations into

And who

one

shall be

opposed to

is

this idea?

the simplest and most beautiful decision of

Unity of

and of Buddha

And

Jesus, so

that the light-giving idea of unity

is,

the earthly Unity

into the great

weave such an image of

nations.

all

mountains such legends.

family.

‘Why demean thy in deceit when even

then turning to the ruler, he said

lie

all

and

scientifically

The commandments

worlds.

upon one

Sanskrit and of Pali unite

Another version

so easily

is

shelf.

And

merging of Jesus

the signs of ancient

all aspirations.

also speaks about the life of Jesus in Tibet:

“Near Lhasa was a temple of teaching with a wealth of manu[

93

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Jesus

scripts.

was

great sage of

with them.

to acquaint himself

Meng-ste, a

the East, was in this temple.”

all

“Finally Jesus reached a mountain pass and in the chief city of Ladak, Leh, he was joyously accepted by

“And

of the lower class.” in the bazaars (the

gathered

“Not

people

Jesus taught in the monasteries

and

market places); whever the simple people

—there he taught.” from

far

woman whose son had died And in the presence of a multi-

this place lived a

and she brought him

to Jesus.

tude,

hand on the

his

laid

Jesus

And many

healed.

monks and

child,

and the child

rose

brought their children and Jesus laid his

hands upon them, healing them.”

“Among the Ladakis, Jesus passed many days, teaching them. And they loved him and when the time of his departure came they sorrowed as children.” •

•

•

Said Jesus of skilled singers:

power ?

For

in

one short

life

•

•

“Whence

is

their talent

and

their

they could not possibly accumulate

a quality of voice and a knowledge of the laws of harmonies.

Are

these miracles

of natural laws.

molded

?

No, because

Many still

•

•

•

And

they

come

manifestations.”

•

other legends and manuscripts relate of Issa in Asia.

many

•

Jesus

qualities.

more from varied •

After the

things take place as a result

thousands of years ago these people already

harmonies and their

their

again to learn

Still

all

vital

•

•

•

•

conception of general well-being indicated by

and preserved by Buddhists, one cannot but

recall the

words

of Eusebius in his book, “Life of Constantine”: “In order to attach to Christianity greater attraction in the eyes of the nobility the priests adopted the outer garments

were used

in

pagan

cults.”

Every one [

94

]

and adornments which

who knows

the cult of

L AD Mithra can appreciate the Platonist

AK

justice of this

A

remark.

devout neo-

and worshiper of the ancient philosophy, Clement of

Alexandria, taught Christian bishops.

Russian princes perished in the tents of Khans

Ignorance!

for their refusal to reverence the

image of Buddha

—yet

at the

same time the monasteries of Tibet were already preserving the wonderful

lines

the destruction of the

own

Cyril of Alexandria brought about

about Jesus.

woman

Hypatia, but

ascetic

pupil, Cinesius, that the bishopric of

was

it

to her

Ptolemy was offered

even before he accepted baptism. Superstition! to trample

Jerome advised the newly converted Christians

upon the body of

Cynicism!

Pope Leo

X

pagan mother.

their

“How

exclaimed,

useful to us

is

this

allegory of Christ!”

It

should not be forgotten that Origen,

who knew

the

mean-

ing of the ancient mysteries and understood the true significance of the teaching of Jesus, even he could speak in the

“The Acts”: “And

all

the believers were together and

everything in united possession.

and

And

all

properties

words of

And

were distributed

which were

the estates

held sold

to each according to his need.

each day, dwelling unitedly and breaking bread in their

homes, they partook of their food with joy and simplicity of the heart.”

Origen understood

why

this general

and saw profoundly into the sometimes extremely

him

this title;

teacher.

truth.

liberal in

well-being was important

Because of

bestowing the

this,

title

of saint, refused

but even enemies did not refuse to

For he approached the teaching

not fear to speak of

what was evident

[

95

]

to

the Church,

call

scientifically

him.

Origen a

and did

;

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Of what was Origen accused? “Lives of the Saints” thus speaks of him: “Origen, the wonder of his age by reason of the prodigiousness of his mind and the profundity of his erudition, was condemned for heresy in two Alexandrian Councils and, after his death, in the

Council of Constantinople.

think correctly about

many

Origen did not

truths of the Christian Church.

Ex-

pounding the non-gentile teachings of the preexistence of the

soul,

he did not

number

properly upon Christ, believing that a certain

reflect

of spiritual beings of equal worth were created, of

whom

one strove with such flaming love that he became united with

Word and became

the Highest

its

bearer

upon

to the heretical belief in the incarnation of the

God- Word and

the creation of the world, Origen did not rightly the death of Christ by crucifixion, representing

which had

its

nature

is

gifted.

to the acts of natural forces .”

.

.

it

comprehend as

something

He

counterpart in a spiritual world.

spiritual

much

attributed too

Holding

earth.

with which our

—Admirable were the councils which could

speak against the infinite cosmic meaning of matter!

Sergius, Builder of

accept alms.

Food and other

exchange for labor.

The

Communities, forebade articles

his

coworkers to

might be accepted only

Hungering, himself, he offered

in

his labor.

building up of communities and enlightenment alone pre-

occupied

this

remarkable man.

tropolite

and

his refusal to

life as

His refusal of the

wear precious metals appear

natural acts, without any pose.

fatigable labor

;

His

life

Me-

in his

was one of inde-

he chose young, completely unknown coworkers

he preached simplicity, sonal property

office of

as above, so

was not because of

of his realization of the

harm

The refusal of perany command, but because below.

of this idea.

In the ranks of

builders of communities, Sergius retains a great place.

They

are not so

numerous

—these [

96

]

builders of a

life

which

re-

LADAK sponds in

its

inner

meaning

to the future evolution.

And we

should carefully record these names of future illumination, ex-

tending their

One

until our day.

lists

of the great

“You were

Mahatmas

told that our

knowledge was limited

who

system: ergo, as philosophers the

name, we could not

what you termed sort beyond the existence

of India says:

desired to remain worthy of

deny or affirm the existence of

either

a supreme, omnipotent, intelligent limits

Being of some

But

of that solar system.

if

such an

not absolutely impossible, yet, unless the uniformity

is

we

of Nature’s laws breaks at those limits

highly improbable.

Our

or denies, for

doctrine it

and

which

therefore,

we deny God both

We know

there

it

it

is

emphatically the

as regards the solar

knows no compromises.

teaches only that

is

maintain that

we deny most

Nevertheless,

position of agnosticism in this direction

system.

to this solar

Neither affirms

knows

to be the truth,

philosophers and Buddhists.

as

no such thing

in our system

as

God,

either

personal or impersonal.”

Amid

strife

and

in the manifestation of truth,

human

of time ascend the law-givers of

ing leader;

Amos,

upon the

chariots

welfare: Moses, the untir-

the austere; Buddha, lion-conqueror;

fucius, justice of life; Zoroaster,

Con-

flaming poet of the sun; Plato,

transfigured and reflected in his “Shadows”; Blessed Issa, great in the

immortal

Sergius, great teacher fell

and

ascetic.

All walked untiringly;

victim to the persecution of their day;

teachings of general well-being all

Origen, the wise commentator;

sacrifice; solitary

knew

would

all

inevitably

knew come

all

that the to pass;

that each sacrifice for the sake of the general well-being

was but the approach of the way.

[

97

]

—— — ——

!

ALTAI-HI MALAYA On

the mountain they

And

simply.

tell

in the deserts

of these teachings

The

about

listen to

them

and upon the steppes people sing

their daily life about eternity

being.

and

in

and about the same general well-

Tibetans, the Mongols, the Buriats,

all

remember

this happiness. •

And upon what do remember tation of

•

•

the peoples of Asia ponder

White Burkhan

the

Him twenty

are turning to the

•

*

The

?

Altaians

—they even suffered in their expec-

years ago.

Upon

the

summit

of

Herem

they

White Burkhan:

Thou who

dwellest behind white clouds

Behind the blue

skies

Three Kurbustans!

Thou wearing

four tresses

White Burkhan!

Thou

Spirit of Altai

White Burkhan!

Thou

A

peopling within thyself, in gold and

nation,

Thou who Sun

White

Altai!

illuminest the day

— Burkhan!

Thou who illuminest Moon — Burkhan Let

silver,

my

call

the night

be inscribed

Within the book Sudur!

The White Burkhan commands

that the idols be burnt

promises great yield to the people’s lands and pastures. the general well-being will also reach to the Altai.

coming

How

Thus of

is

and

And

so

encampments of

being transfigured the ancient legend about the

Buddha

to Altai.

ponder the people of Asia? [

98

]

The

Buriats are singing:

—

LADAK You will say: Sun stand still! What means its setting? You will say: Century await! What means its aging? You will say: Moon be What means its wane? You will say: Century What means its aging?

still!

await!

You will say: Snow remain! What means its melting? You will say: Elders remain! What means their passing? You will say: Cloud be still! What means its hiding? You will say: Elders remain! What means their passing? Mongols

are singing:

“He who

has no possessions which he

would gather with thoughts of gain; who has naught with which he would not have strength enough to part; who thinks firmly he possesses the lasting and beautiful delight.”

The the

ancient Chinese have preserved the beautiful

Mother of the Sun,

calling her Ruler of the East!

[

99

]

hymn

of

V

Part

LAMAYURU-HEMIS (1925)

Among

the manuscripts in the ancient Chinese watch-towers

were found

dictionaries

and the biographies of famous women.

Such was the modernity of ancient peoples.

When tomed

you already

the beauties of Asia, and are accus-

to all the richness of

astonish you, to

know

and again

its

colors, nevertheless they

your feelings, so that you

elate

again

feel able

accomplish the impossible.

Flies,

mosquitoes,

fleas,

All possible gifts has Kashmir.

earwigs!

departure was not without bloodshed.

Our

of ruffians attacked our caravan

iron rods; seven of our

and began

men were

preserve order with revolvers and

hurt.

Tangmarg

In

to beat our

a

band

men

with

was necessary

It

to

In Ghund, our hostlers

rifles.

fed the horses with poisonous grass; the horses began to shiver

and

finally lay

up and down.

down.

My

is

had

to be

The

made

drivers

fires

walked

and

around the

also

ammu-

A

wildcat crept into the tent under George’s bed.

Khan

(our caravan leader) brought five ragamuffins:

nition box.

“This

entire night they

horse, Mastan, suffered especially,

Sabsa, that of George.

Sattar

The

a special

guard from the

village.

For

in the neighbor-

wandering many Afridi (from Afghan).

hood

are

rob.”

The

ragamuffins slept near the tents.

[100]

They may Nobody came to rob.

LAMAYURU-HEMIS Wet, rainy the wet tents

man came

We

Baltal.

when

had not

yet succeeded in spreading

new

there arose a

A

provocation.

with a report that our people had

police-

moment

at that

destroyed a sanitary post and had seriously insulted the

just

doctor.

Fortunately, the guard at the railway station did not

confirm

this

answer any

We

invention.

evil

The

insults.

again bid our

caravaneers insisted

men

not to

upon our spending

an extra day in Baltal because of their fear of avalanches on

We

Zoji.

discussed, walked, reconnoitered

with hesitation decided to move on. although

The

wind.

There were no avalanches,

always on the edges of the mountain, there

as

Upon

been separate falling stones. icy

on the mountain and

became

fur coats

may have

the pass, as usual,

was an

lighter than gauze!

we gave him cognac. At once, three more “became sick”; and when we gave them laxatives they began to demand the same medicine as we The

had

Balti

gave to the

first

a

stomach ache.

Thoughtlessly,

one. •

•

•

•

•

women were

In the field near Dras remarkably beautiful

working.

They were

of an Arabian type, dressed in black shirts

We

with black bands on their heads.

who came

but were told they were Afridi, tures

thought these were Dards

from Afghan; these are the ones of

to the

whom

summer

pas-

the people are

afraid.

There are

stories of

how

caravans were looted: one Tibetan

Amban

caravan was captured by the

of Sining.

The

other

was

destroyed completely by a Mongolian Ja-lama, who, beginning his

career

as

a

statesman, finished as a feudal

\hoshuns, up to now, are marauding in Tsaidam. •

•

•

[

ioi

•

]

•

bandit.

His

— ALTAI-HIMALAYA There

are stories about the high interest

by the Sinkiang interest,

We

and army

officials

which

is

exacting up to twenty per cent per month.

It is terrible.

encounter the passing caravans: All sorts of people

Dards,

The tongues

Ladakis, Astoris and Yarkandis.

Baltis,

completely different.

It

is

like

Or with

the Rhine

of Kashmir.

It

Transparent, ephemeral,

?

difficult to

is

—beyond,

Further, further

After Zoji

all

flitting is

the beauty

and amber sands.

Kashmir remained behind with

poisonous herbs, cholera and

over a thundering river,

the Tyrol?

imagine oneself in mighty Asia.

to the rocks

changed.

are

an exodus of nations.

Did the ancient Goths not compare Kashmir with

its

money on

All loan

officers.

extorted

insects.

we seemed

all

Crossing the icy bridges

to cross into

another country.

People seem more honest; the streams seem more health-giving;

more

the herbs are

And

the air

of the

first

The

heat.

curative

and the stones are multi-colored.

seems exhilarating.

itself

autumn

frosts.

Mornings are brisk

In the afternoon there

rocks are purple and green of hue.

like rich carpets.

And

is

—

as

a clear dry

Grasses are golden

the recesses of the mountains as well as

the slime of the river-bed and the healing aromatic herbs

Here

are prepared to contribute their gifts.

—

all

verily great decisions

are possible.

Beyond Dras we encounter the

two stone

the road are a stone

horse

?

able that this

rider.

Is this

not a messenger of the

first

Buddhist message.

stelae representing Maitreya.

with the image of a Is this

first

rider not

new world ?

Near

Nearby,

upon

a white

It is

remark-

Buddhist emblem happens to be just the image

of Maitreya.

[102]

LAMA YURU-HEMIS we

In Maulbeck, order.

We

visited a typical

home

Tibetan

climbed up on a slanting ladder

on a

as

of the old

raised bridge.

We found

Within was the house chapel, and an odor of incense. a portly hostess

—a

view, encompassing

the balconies

are peaceful.

door, a girl squeezes out vegetable

the skin of a yak, and her head

a fantasy of sand

Upon

the floor near the

oil for

Behind her

lamps.

crowned by

is

wondrous

a

is

and

the mountains

all

The rooms

formations.

From

widow.

a

is

weighty head-

dress of turquoise.

In Dras

the

is

first

But

sign of Maitreya.

in ancient

Maulbeck,

a gigantic

image of the Coming One powerfully stands beside

the road.

Every traveler must pass by

Two

hands

of far-off worlds.

Two

this rock.

reach toward the sky, like the

summons

hands reach downward

the benediction

know

that Maitreya

like

coming.

is

image that Fa-hsien wrote

Is

it

of earth.

not about this gigantic

in his diaries?

So

it

would seem.

The Monastery, Maulbeck, with two temples and ruins,

crowns the rocks with an unusually heroic chord.

And

precious bronze wedge! is

asleep.

Forgotten

is

the

And

endless

As

a

the country of forgotten heroism

legend of Herodotus about ants

bringing gold from the shore of the Indus.

about this gold.

They

But some remember

Gessar-Khan promises

to

open the gold

upon a certain date to the people who will be worthily able meet the coming tide of Maitreya the age of universal unity

fields

to

—

Buddha

ordained by

Ladaki heads,

and

drivers,

himself.

who

rinse their

are

We

wash

their

mouths before each meal.

resoundingly and joyously.

on the road.

Buddhists,

And my

go merrily.

We

houettes of the rocks.

[103]

hands and

And

they sing

black hostler begins a dance observe the colors and

sil-

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Whoever

Lamayuru and Maulbeck knew what was

built

beauty and fearlessness.

Before such expanse, before such decora-

And

tions, Italian cities pale.

such decoration as the

Where

bow

Here

amazing.

only of the

Red

in

one find

Peak,” or the endless

the slopes near the Tibetan

•

•

•

•

Lamayuru,

in this very stronghold not

among

but even Bon-po,

sects

images stands a great image of Maitreya.

Even here did

about 200 years ago.

will

before such true beauty. •

It is

all

Where

sands.

a country equal to these forsaken spots?

lies

Let us be just and

solemn rows of stupas are

castle of “Tiger’s

crowning

ruins of the castles

Kharbu?

these

upon tourmaline

like joyous torches

true

this

It

the

row

of

was placed here

knowledge

penetrate.

Maitreya alone binds firmly the Mahayana and Hinayana including Ceylon. sects.

There

is

In this reverence are united Yellow and

magnificence in

Red

this reverence of the future.

The caravans, meeting, greet each other. They always inquire, “Whence do you come?” They never inquire, “Who are you?” Movement has already effaced personality. Above the caravans sound the calls, “Shabash” (good way ahead) or “Kabarda” (danger, attention).

And

thunderous Indus, there a sweep of sharp stones

truly,

is

on the

steep banks of the yellow,

always danger of a cruel, swift

which can brush the horse

tide,

into the whirl-

pool of the torrent.

Saspul

At

teries.

gigantic giants,

is

an open, merry place. the very road

is

Around

Manjushri and Avalokiteshvara. stela

are

many monas-

a small monastery, and within

image of the seated Maitreya.

an ancient stone

it

On

it

a

the side also stand

In the front temple

is

with the same images, which dates from

the tenth century or earlier.

The lama [104]

of the temple talks with

(LADAK)

Series)

MONASTERY

Maitreya

( LAMAYURU

LAMA YURU-HEMIS knowledge about Maitreya.

This temple has been

little

noticed

in descriptions. •

•

•

•

Maitreya stands as the symbol of the future. perceived the signs of the past. deer, of

we

did

similar images?

recall

stylization,

Why, on The same

We

saw only one

—an

of people, perhaps representing a ritual.

America and Asia a

stretch

semi-grotto where

unknown Basgo

travelers

is

a whimsical

dom

we

had

North

the stones of

technique, the same

Few

are the

archer and several rows

Through

hands to each other. paused for

Where

horses.

and the same reverence for animals.

images.

also

the rocks are images of

mountain goats with twisted horns, of

America; upon Siberian rocks:

human

Upon

But we

rest,

these images,

On

the wall of

the hands of

some

also left the figures of animals.

an ancient monastery upon the sharp

and variegated

line,

cliffs.

without any minuteness,

Such is sel-

seen.

The Ladaki

villages are not ill-smelling.

On

often smells incense, wild mint, sage, apples

We

passed Kalatse.

the contrary, one

and

apricots.

There upon the bridge was nailed the

hand of the “robber,” Sukamir, who attempted to conquer Ladak for Kashmir. A cat had devoured this venal hand and in its place it was found necessary to borrow the hand of a dead lama,

—

lest

the svmbol suffer.

Already missionaries are in Kalatse.

Encampments from Srinagar to Leh: Ganderbal, Kangan, Ghund, Sonamarg, Baltal (Zoji), Matayan, Dras, Kharbu, Kargil, Maulbeck, Tibetan Kharbu, Lamayuru, Nuria, Saspul (Basgo), Nyimu. The last may be omitted if the night-lodging is prepared in Leh.

[105]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Wheat is

does not fear an altitude of 12,000

adaptable as high as 15,000

instead of oats.

A

feet,

and barley

Horses are fed with barley

feet.

certain veterinarian attempted to prove that

barley was very harmful for horses but

Tibet in practice has

all

proved the opposite. •

In the time of

war and

India was increased. Gilgit

is

•

•

•

revolution the trade of Turkestan and

Leh

In

•

the former political inspector of

stationed as special trade agent. •

•

•

•

•

Bearded vultures, white-tailed eagles and European falcons of brownish-gold are perching upon the sapphires and tourmalines of the mountains. *

On New

•

•

•

Year the Tibetans bring

ing greens, because the Tibetan of February. in the fields.

And in Lhasa What then is

•

New

at that

Buddha

to

Year

is

freshly blossom-

beginning

at the

time they prepare for work

there better

and fresher and more

symbolic of striving to offer to Buddha than the fresh seedlings, this first

message of the awakened

life?

Either one must accept what exists in

Of

recourse in personal superstitions.

its

full reality or find

course, reality

But then, one must take the actual living

facts.

is

These

precious. facts will

bring their offering of tender verdure to Buddha; they also will

evoke dreams of the unity of the peoples. the structure of the

new

unions.

They

But these

facts

will give rise to

one can verify

only in the desert beyond the accessible boundaries, outside of the sphere of influence; where there are no slanderers, no

where one thinks

all

afresh

;

where

any outlined regulations.

[

106]

decisions

liars;

do not depend upon

LAMAYURU-HEMIS We are looking upon the inexhaustibly We note where and how were conceived

rich rock formations.

the examples of sym-

Nature, having no outlet, inscribed epics with their

bolic images.

One

wealth of ornamentation, on the rocks.

how

perceives

the

forms of imagery blend with the mountain atmosphere.

Just

those forms, thought out in the West, here begin to live

and

become convincing: One may expect the appearance Yin; or

Lhamo

Kuan

of

prepares the element of destruction; or

image of Mahakala may

issue

from the mass of the

the

And

cliff.

how many enchanted stone knights await their liberation! How many enchanted helmets and swords are hidden in the chasms! This

is

not the unlifelike Durandale from Rockamadura.

the real tragedy and achievement of

Gessar

Khan

along the

And

fiery rocks.

an orange mantle,

same

And Bruguma

life.

under a tremendous banyan

a Sanyasin, in all

sits

as in the times of

is

of

Crafty Locke runs

kin to Brunhilde of Siegfried.

is

This

tree, in

ways and manners the

Gautama Buddha.

Over the mountains rings out the “Forging of the Sword” and the “Call of Valkyrie” and the “Magic Fire Music” and the

“Roar of Fafner .” annihilate

I

Wagner.

remember Stravinsky once was ready No,

monies of achievement are not to be destroyed. of

Wagner

also true,

is

Ragtime and

and rings remarkably

fox-trots will not supplant

Tyrolian rocks and in the Villa at Pisa,

with a true enthusiasm and his sweep Asia.

An

Humanity unusual

still

fire in

the exclamation of E.

houette of E.

I.

gradually the

lives

against a fire

And

in the

Wagner.

the music

mountains.

Upon

Wagner became

the

filled

is

fit

for the heights of

Nyimu!

I

was awakened by

by beauty.

the village I.:

har-

realism, these

Igor, this heroic

to

Fire!”

“Fire!

I

awoke and saw

the

sil-

background of undulating bluish flame;

died out.

It

appears that E.

[107]

I.

approached

ALTAI-HIMALAYA The

the bed and touched the blanket. flashed up.

less,

E.

the flame spread

The

tried to extinguish

more and more

ceased as

fire

I.

it

bluish flame,

strongly.

it

warm, odor-

with her hands but

Then

she called me.

began, without leaving the slightest trace

on anything. Unforgettable was this leaping flame, unconsuming and vivid. The tent was entirely illumined. As always during phenomena, only afterwards we could

talk over all the unusual

details of this fire.

Dr. Francke relates the words of his Tibetan fellow traveler at the source of the Indus, in view of certain heights: “Behind

them

Ba-yul, the country of

lies

tall

Only highly

beings.

veloped people can find out something about the Ba-yul.

But

a simple

if

man

de-

in this

life

approaches the snowy boundaries

he sometimes hears only voices incomprehensible to him.”

A

Ladaki song:

Through

Hindu word?

the gates of the east entered the

way of the sacred kingdom erects the gates of

Say, did you pass by

The

Persian

Did you

The

the south.

them?

pass through

celestial

message of China opens to us the western

How

did you pass the

And

the gates of the north belong to Gessar

How

way

The

way

did you pass the

Did you east

of the Chinese sign

way

gates.

?

Khan.

of the sword stroke?

pass the gates leading to Lhasa,

where

lies

the

of the seekers of truth?

—the

gates of India.

There, hallowing the sacred

word and custom, we rested. The Persian kingdom possesses the

gates of the south.

There we revered the border of the noble

The

Faith.

celestial

ones.

message of China opened to us the western

gates. [

108]

LAMA YURU-HEMIS Affirming the dates

The gates to By the clash

And

it

gave us happiness.

the warrior, Gessar, are on the north.

we

of swords

passed these nations.

through the gates of Lhasa, seeking for truth,

We

passed, testing in silence our spirit.

The geographical

oddities of the song evidently result

from the

accumulations of different races.

Another beautiful Ladaki song:

One is visited by wisdom and one is only an onlooker. Some can achieve wholly naught, therefore one must

test

himself here.

But

to

him who

already comes with wisdom, there

is

spe-

cial bliss.

Does the High One need the wisdom of nine signs ?

And

does the mediocre one need the same?

Are you coming

as friend of

high

estate or

desire a purse?

Did you come without

Do

threats

?

you wish the covenant of friendship?

There are three kinds of enemies. There are three kinds of

friends.

Would you enumerate them? There are three enemies:

An enemy who induces sickness, An enemy who hates the spirit, An enemy who avenges in bloodshed.

We did not come as enemies, We are friend to you. We name three friends: Our

Liberator Buddha,

[109]

do you only

ALTAI-HIMALAYA The union of a harmonious family, The union of love and blood. Here

are the three friends.

Verily,

it

is

so.

•

We

•

•

•

book of Claude Bragdon, “Epi-

recall the beautiful little

We

sodes of an Unwritten History.” several

more

episodes.

All that he does

It

is

so sincere

is

•

him with

could furnish

always pleasant to meet Bragdon.

and

fine.

Pay attention to the blending of Kuan Yin, Aryabalo Gessar

kiteshvara.

insists

upon the

structure

—Avalo-

of the

temple,

Aryabalo.

The name

of

Gessar

has

reached

as

far

as

the

Volga

site

of the

(Astrakhan). •

Gessar

is

•

•

•

•

being identified with Assur.

The temple

of Gessar

Khan was

built

upon the

manifestation of Avalokiteshvara.

The ners,

people of Ordoss place before the house five colored ban-

the colors of the rainbow, awaiting the

— great being “Tengiras Ochirta'i.”

The abbot of the monastery Wu-t’a'i shan in Red Path to Shambhala,” describes many details this

forbidden place.

At the end of

detail, to the effect that the traveler

it

there

is

coming

of the

the book, of the

“The

way

into

a characteristic

saw on the very edge of the

safeguarded place, a caravan of Mongols with

salt,

although they

did not suspect the nearness of the dwelling.

A

when he went to by an underground passage. The passage

Buriat lama gives the information that

Shambhala he was

led

sometimes became so narrow that one could hardly push through

[no]

a

LAMA YURU-HEMIS the thoroughbred ram,

which was being

led into the forbidden

place.

Mongolian lamas indicate

several “safeguarded” places in the

There came

boundaries of Khangai and Gobi.

several hurried

messengers from the Himalayas.

Near Kalatse to

name

the

are pointed out

of

many

Gessar Khan:

Saddle of Gessar.

4.

Spinning wheel of Bruguma.

high rock

—a

3.

is

of

5.

—of

are dedicated

Gessar

Bruguma, wife

Khan.

of Gessar.

Castle of Gessar

Khan —

white spot indicates the sign of a door.

On Sumur upon This lion

which

Garuda

i.

Tambourine

2.

places

the rock

is

upon Tibetan and

an image of

a

crowned

lion.

military banners.

Mongols speak about the coming of “Meru.” In the spring in

Ladak

singing and archery.

weave

a festival of Gessar, celebrated with

is

From

the

names

of the songs one

may

a complete garland about Gessar.

Let us remember the names: Gessar the Conqueror; Gessar

and the Treasury of the Giants; The Wisdom of Bruguma; Father and Mother, the All-powerful; The Return of Gessar and Bru-

guma; The Voices of Heaven; The Conjuration of the Arrow; The Four Victories of Gessar; The Prayer of Gessar; Upon the Peak Shrar; Gessar the Ruler of Lightning; The Victory Song of Gessar; Praise to Gessar.

These

titles

alone proclaim the path of folk-consciousness, of

the national dignity and the

dream about the hero of freedom.

Both Ladakis and Mongols await fighters and builders of

They endow them not only with serpentine cunning it

is

to observe the

and the

a leonine courage but with

tirelessness of a stag.

How

growth of the consciousness and

of heroic symbols!

[in]

life.

wondrous its

forging

— ALTAI-HIMALAYA The images upon

the rocks can be ascribed to three periods:

the Neolith, the ancient faith of Bon-po and the superstition of

In the technique of the images themselves one

a later period.

can distinguish the firm, succulent stylization of antiquity and the restrained, sharp line of later drawings.

The name

of

Orion

about Gessar Khan:

is

On

often connected with the narrative

Altai, the

Outch means Orion;

Outch-Sure.

mountain Beluha

is

called

Sure, the dwelling of

Gods;

Sumer and Hindu Sumeru. Upon the mountain Outch-Sure one ascends by a White Khatik. The heavenly bird upon the mountain Outch-Sure has conquered the dragon. Tsagan Ubugun, white old man, is always near to thus correlating to the Mongolian

the Great Bear. •

They

•

•

•

say in the caravan that the

carry special banners

and sing

a

•

Mongolian

soldiers

hymn composed

—

tseriks

by them about

the approach of the time of Shambhala.

From One

border to border, from mouth to mouth.

does not care to give to the local images any ethnographical

or geographical character.

and

Citadels.”

Let them go

as

banners: “Sanctuaries

Let them, by their general tone of heroism and

attainment, themselves speak for this country.

Spitug

is

a powerful monastery, the

teachings of Tsong-kha-pa.

working community.

Here

The abbot

first,

according to the

are not ruins, but a living

of the monastery

workers are learned and strikingly keen men.

and

and

his co-

Before one has

yet completely spoken, they are ready to continue your finished

thought correctly.

In Spitug

lies

knowledge of the prophecies. in

Leh

in a special

the

image of Maitreya and the

In one of the divisions of Spitug

compartment stands [112]

a great

image of Dukar,

LAMAYURU-HEMIS Mother of the World, with numberless with the arrow of

Coming One.

At her

justice.

At her

Maitreya

right, stands

many-armed image

the

left,

eyes of omniscience,

and

—the

of the Ava-

lokiteshvara, this conclave of the Brotherhood of the Great Unity.

One should remember

the correlation of these three symbols.

This correlation has never been remarked upon or explained. In both branches of Spitug, the murals are excellent, with

They have promised

strong tones and feeling of balance. cure for us the same

To

camp came

our

yaks, he

had

just

is

spots

painted these stirring walls.

crossed

Khardong

were Khardong and Sasser easier.

from Yarkand.

riding a missionary

Pass, losing

He

He

a staggeringly hard journey.”

higher was

He

who

His watch had stopped.

days and dates. “It

artist

He

to pro-

all

On

sense of

repeated constantly:

told us that the worst

Pass, while

Karakorum, though

praised highly the people of Turkestan.

informed us that the

Amban

is

already awaiting us and con-

siders us his guests.

The monastery Sheh, laid out. finest

In

seven miles from Leh,

a tremendous, two-storied

it is

mural of any seen by us thus

wonderfully

is

image of Buddha, the

far.

In Trikshe also are the great images of Buddha, Maitreya and

The

Manjushri. see friendly

lamas there.

who, judging by

One must Hemis. of

On

The

and dejection.

black dogs are

together.

his erratic laughter,

faces.

Of

And

We

did not

was not quite normal.

—

let

feels the strange

us go to

atmosphere

have strange fearful

Black ravens

And

at bones.

course, the temple

Buddhism

stupas

Dark banners.

gnawing

simpler.

There was only an old Mongolian lama

approaching one already

—ugly

closes itself.

somewhat

also see the reverse side of

darkness

images

paintings are

fly

above and

the canyon tightly in-

and the houses are

all

huddled

the objects of service are heaped together in dark [

113]

\

ALTAI-HIMALAYA The lamas

corners like pillaged loot.

“Hemis, a big name, but

laughs.

Our guide monastery.” Of course,

are half-literate.

a little

small, not according to size, but to inner meaning.

The only

apparent prejudice and greed.

was

that

upon the neighboring sharp

fine

rocks, at

appeared and, standing long upon the

cliffs,

Here

is

thing about

it

morning, the

stags

turned their heads

to greet the sun.

It is

who left lying down

an old monastery founded by a great lama

about Shambhala and these manuscripts are

a

book

below,

out of sight, probably feeding the mice.

Regarding the legends of Jesus

To

denial.

—

our amazement denial

there

first

comes from the

of missionaries.

Then

mentary, reticent

details, difficult to obtain.

slowly,

was a complete

first

by

little

little,

circle

creep in frag-

Finally

it

appears

Ladak have heard and know about

that the old people in

the

legends. •

Such legends about of the

book of Shambhala

•

•

•

and the Book of Shambhala

Jesus

And

the “darkest” place.

•

the figure of the lama

—stands

like

—the

And how many

in dusty corners?

For the Tantrik-lamas have no

them.

It

was necessary

And how fanaticism!

simple

How

How easy to purify is it

difficult to

meaning greatest

of the

it

is

in

compiler

an idol in some

fantastic headgear.

lie

sort of

other relics have perished

to see this other side of

to brush aside this

interest in

Buddhism.

grime and dust of

simple to restore the stirring mural paintings!

and

to cleanse the finely

wrought

statues!

bring the monastic organizations back to the

working

Lion (Sinha)

Nor full

order, according to the teachings of the

—Buddha. •

•

•

[H4]

•

•

LAMAYURU-HEMIS am

“I

the

King

Tibetan garb, approached

who was conquered

Now we

his

tell

means

him we

He

us.

is

and

love his country

and the guest

in a fine, subtle

Red

now

we

so

speak at

We

who

tea,

and

are remark-

speak of the teaching

many

rises

We

observances.

The king

of ancient things, of the finesse of the work.

which

of Ladak,

way, remarks that the Yellow and

almost alike in

us to see his palace,

in

a fine, intellectual face.

is

his people

and honesty.

King

the former

And

are very limited.

man

the slender, slight

His

by Kashmiris.

able for their calmness

Sects are

—thus

Ladak”

of

speak invites

high upon the rocks overlooking

Leh.

We

climb the steep, uncertain

dark crossings. balconies, tains

We

We

staircases.

upon the

pause, rapt in joy,

from which before us spreads the

and sand-mounds.

which lead

tiny doors

We

must bow

pass along the terraces

vista of all

and

moun-

in order to enter the low,

The temple

into the house temple.

dedicated to Dukar, the resplendent Mother of the World.

On

the center again stands her image.

Although the king now nevertheless, before

walls

hang many

in

lives

her right hand

images are fresh

these

of the paintings here

is

finer

flowers.

The

finely colored banners.

In

— Buddha.

summer

Stog, the

is

palace,

On

the

general feeling

than in Sikhim, and one

feels the

great influence of Tashi-lhunpo.

Near the

palace, in a separate temple,

The

image of Maitreya.

placed the gigantic

is

wall painting there

is

very majestic.

Often, the murals of Italy or of Russian churches, were either too detailed or too general in parts.

But here one

is

startled

by

the unusual combination of breadth of understanding of the general parts, is

two

with their richness of

stories

high

—up

the higher floor, the statue

was done

able.

It is as

as

The

detail.

lower

to the waist in the

Image

itself.

Perhaps

an afterthought, but

though the

its

common man [ii5]

figure of Maitreya floor,

and on

this division of the

idea

is

quite remark-

should not perceive

at

ALTAI-HIMALAYA One must

once the entire grandeur of the symbol.

upper way in order to reach the Image

—

ascend the

though of a higher

as

The lower floor is bathed in twilight while above, through the narrow windows without glass, the rays of the bright, allpenetrating sun pour in. And near you are great number of

world.

and the glistening sand and

stupas

fantastic

networks of the

gates. •

The Mongolian lama

•

•

•

•

has arrived and with

of news; they await our arrival in Lhasa.

He

says, all are discussing the prophecies.

and has already traveled from Urga organization of the lamas

We

is

are talking with the

near Darjeeling.

It

him

a

new wave

In monasteries, he

an excellent lama

is

to Ceylon.

How

far this

penetrating everywhere!

lama about what happened

must be recorded:

We

Ghum.

automobile near the monastery

to us

were going in an

Approaching us there

appeared a porte-chaise, carried by four servants in white garments, while the lama himself

garment with

a

crown upon

in a

sat

his head.

ing face, with a small black beard.

remarkably beautiful

He had

a bright,

The automobile had

down, and the lama smiled and joyously nodded thought that

this

But afterwards chaises,

was the important abbot of

we

to slow

his head.

We

a large monastery.

discovered that lamas are not carried in porte-

nor do they wear crowns

when

Nor do

traveling.

No

lamas in Sikhim appear in such beautiful garments. ever heard of such a

The

welcom-

lama

one

—and a face like his we found nowhere.

chauffeur slowed up the automobile while driving before

the lama,

The

which enabled us sharply

last

flight

of the

to observe his face.

Tashi-Lama had a heroic

character.

Three hundred armed lamas accompanied the visionary refugee.

Each of them, and the Tashi-Lama himself, by the

bridle, because the flight

was hurried

[n6]

led

an extra horse

—and pursuit threat-

LAMA YURU-HEMIS ened them from

message was brought to them,

Lhasan horsemen were hastening

in time, that 500

escape on the

A

all sides.

Nagchu

and the pursuit was cut

off.

in turn-

A

snowstorm

So, full-armed,

amidst an

— the

fulfillment

ing to the side and escaping through a gorge. rose

to cut off

The Tashi-Lama succeeded

Pass.

just

incessant galloping, an historic flight occurred

of the ancient prophecies, so important for the future, took place.

According

to

an eyewitness, the monk-artist Gelong

him from Tashi-lhunpo only

Tashi, the Tashi-Lama took with

Out

the pictures of Shambhala.

two

to

who

told us that

only through Shambhala!

In

of Maitreya are being raised

and

is

on the way, he gave

of them,

well-known Khutukhtas; and here

poche, from the Chumbi,

Champa

many

in

Ladak was Rin-

now

the shortest

way

monasteries the images

restored!

From hand to hand among the local inhabitants the prophecies and new commands are traveling. With excitement they are comparing the dates which have already been prepare and await, await, await.

Some one comes

in the

manuscript of Shambhala.

One must

.

We

ask

him

to bring

coming

of these

structures are vital

of thought

One

is

the

ones, in order to realize

meaning

are connected with the structures of the future.

is

new

it.

of Shambhala.

the dates of events are not a curious oddity for

stance

they

evening and whispers about a

important for them

vitally

.

And

be in these places to understand what occurs!

must look into the eyes

how And

.

fulfilled.

Though

sometimes dust-ridden and perverted,

and

you

stirs

the thought.

realize the

them but these

their sub-

Following the development

dreams and hopes.

And

out of these

fragments has been pieced together the real departure of the

Tashi-Lama

—an

important one.

Three years before frescoes be painted

The new web

his departure, the

on the walls of [

117]

of the world!

Tashi-Lama ordered

his inner

chambers.

that

In these

ALTAI-HIMALAYA frescoes in clear symbols are represented all the

the

Tashi-Lama through various

Throughout Ladak

wanderings of

countries.

are scattered stones with images of a cross,

The most

apparently Druid or Nestorian.

ancient and

gotten country preserves the Druid signs and

now

for-

possible later

all

symbols.

Not

from the

far

called ancient

more than

Dard

site

Buddha stand most

of

Their age

graves.

of course considerably

is

a thousand years.

Three items of information reached us legends of Jesus.

A

one Ladaki

that according to the

official

Hindu

Abbot

of Hemis, there

was

which

Jesus taught.”

(This

and

a pool,

The

invented,

when

“A

Hemis

sat in

Another

said

“I

have heard from

words of the former beside

some new version about

a tree

and

a small pool in

it

nonsensical invention composed by a

(One may ask why

months.”

several

and proofs.)

coincides with other versions

says: “Is

it

not a Nestorian legend?

were many legends and true ones. ing about

to us:

Leh

a tree is

one day about the

in

unheard before.)

missionary says:

who

Pole

ancient tombs

Among them

But missionaries

know

Thus slowly

news begins

noth-

it.”

So the subject to leak out.

is

The

being discussed. chief thing

and the wonderful meaning

is it

the

the unusual depth of the legend

has to the lamas throughout the

entire East.

A

good and

sensitive

Hindu spoke meaningly about

“Why

script of the life of Issa.

Egypt during the time of years of course

in study.

from

sources

do

these sermons lead

[118]

?

Palestine

The

have naturally impressed themselves upon

what

manu-

does one always place Issa in

his absence

were passed

the

?

His young

traces of his learning

his later sermons.

What

is

there in

them

To of

LAMAYURU-HEMIS And why

Egyptian? India?

why

to understand

It is difficult

Buddhism

—of

wandering of

Issa

does one not see traces of the

by caravan path into India and into the region

now

occupied by

Tibet, should be so vehemently denied.”

The

teachings of India were famed far and wide;

Hindu

us even

Appolonius of Tyana and

recall the description of the life of visits to

let

sages.

Another speaker reminds us a slab with an inscribed

that in Syria there

was found

governmental edict about the persecution

of the followers of Jesus as enemies of the government. archaeological find

must be curious

toricity of Jesus the

And how

Teacher.

who deny

for those

first

those

catacombs themselves

does one explain the

who

love

scornfully

to

deny when something

knowledge

enters their consciousness; but then,

into seminaristic scholasticism art.

In what possible

way

and slander

difficult

transformed

is

cultivated as a fine

is

could a recent forgery penetrate into

the consciousness of the whole East?

And where

who could write a long know such an one.

and Tibetan?

Each day the lama

And

There are always

exist.

still

This

the his-

tiny coins used by the early Christians in the catacombs?

the

his

treatise in Pali

rejoices

and astonishes

us.

is

the scientist

We

He

do not

has seen

much and knows so much and is able so keenly to discriminate among the people. Just now he has brought us the information that a name very close to us is mentioned in the most ancient so

There

prophecies.

is

not the slightest bigotry in the lama and

for the defense of the foundations

He

he

is

even ready to take arms.

—

“Do not speak to this man he will babble “And now I had better leave you.” And there

will whisper:

everything.”

.

.

.

is

nothing personal

is

to

move

felt

behind

his motives.

farther!

[U9]

And how

ready he

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Leh is a remarkable site. Here the legends connected the paths of Buddha and Christ. Buddha went through Leh northwards.

communed

Issa

here with the people on his

and cautiously the legends

Secretly

sound them because lamas, above

way from

are guarded.

all

people,

Tibet.

It is difficult

know how

to

to

keep

—and not merely that of tongue but also of inner understanding— can one approach Only by means

silent.

of a

common

One becomes

their significant mysteries.

when he

than yourself.

convinced that every

Even by

educated Gelong knows much. guess

language

agrees or inwardly laughs at you,

How many

one cannot

his eyes

knowing more

ones can

stories these silent

of the

tell

who have found themselves in the most ridicuBut now has come the time of the illumination

passing “savants” lous positions!

of Asia.

Wonderful

Their robes strangely

have the Ladakis.

Often instead of the

Russian Byzantine ornaments.

recall the

fur

voices

slung behind

the

shoulders,

cloth with embroidered designs,

there

which

short

a

is

mantle of

gives the impression of

Their high em-

the ancient corsno (Byzantine mantle-cloak).

broidered hats are like those of Boyars.

In their girdles are

metal depositories for a pen and a pair of reed pipes, and with these latter they

fill

the hours of their

the evening with ringing melodies.

work

in the fields the Ladakis

heads wreaths of barley and flowers. ing joyous sound

Once again came live in his palace.

terraces,

from

here.

the

signs

changed.

the

From

•

King

of Ladak.

this site of the

one must paint a

their

—such ring-

itself!

•

•

•

wear on

the songs

—are like the nature of Ladak •

high

And

During

As

a result

sermons of

series of

all

we

Issa,

are to

from

its

that can be seen

In these high places, purified by winds, occurred of

great

Of

communions.

course

the

places

have

Destructions and constructions succeeded one another. [

120

]

Museum.

Roerich

Series)

LADAK

(Maitreya

LEH,

Roerich

Nicholas

by

painting

a From

— LAM A YURU-HEMIS The conquerors have brought new accumulations, but the basic The same heavenly frames as silhouette remains unchanged. formerly are crowning the earth tides of

And

sand like a sea congealed.

sweeping up from the earth.

And

— the same glowing

here

is

the

site

of

.

.

The

hewn

old

which

cliffs

.

Buddha.

It is

A

eroded by time.

legend

now

But

the

and rugged stones speak only of destruction.

stones have

in their turn

and the

the deafening winds,

speaks of a “great and very ancient structure.”

abutments of

stars

gone

to the structure of later stupas,

One fact is evident habitation. Not far off is an

have already crumbled.

you stand upon a place of ancient

old village and a sharp-peaked heap of ruins

—remains

of an

ancient fortress merged together like a monolith.

The

days are

Crowds

filled

with our settling in the Ladaki palace.

of people are coming: envoys

chants, Ak-sakal the Elder, Tasildar chief) and, again, the

King

from Lhasa, Tibetan mer-

from Kashmir (the

district

of Ladak.

King Lama came himself. In spite of his poverty he brought with him about ten accompanying lamas and relaFrom the conversation it became apparent that the family tives.

The

old

knows

of the king

of the manuscripts about Issa.

formed us that many Mohammedans would

Then followed

document.

They

also in-

like to possess this

conversation about prophecies con-

nected with Shambhala, about the dates and about that which fills

reality

crowd and

with beauty.

in white kaftans

The bow

King Lama departs and the before him in reverence, simply old

beautifully.

As simply

yesterday in the street did a

woman, walking

the field of stubble, approach and stretch out a

They

are

now

harvesting the golden barley.

[m]

hand of

Rows

out of

greeting.

of people

ALTAI-HIMALAYA with flower wreaths on their heads, carry on their backs sheaves of golden

wheat and sing

stirringly

and joyously, in golden

full-

voiced garlands of song.

And

so

we

castles pale in

which

rises

comparison with the

in

Where have we

chalice

The

of

many-colored

the

upon such ruined

Mehesky

Of

mountains.

course, these are the

are dwelling not the

descendants of Gessar Khan.

mass

Where have we Of course in the

alleys?

—the Moon people.*

Only here

very same towers.

ruins of Italian

this picturesque pile, this

seen such lofty roof-terraces?

previously walked

painting of

Ladaki palace.

in a

live

All Kings of

Mehesky, but

Ladak

trace their

descent from the heroic Gessar Khan.

How

wonderful that George knows

Only without

lects.

spiritual things.

with

clear, true

necessary Tibetan dia-

a translator will people here speak about

Now

one must absorb, with

approach.

Curiosity

is

not

full

knowledge,

Only

fitting.

insistent

knowledge!

love of

•

•

The

all

eighth of September.

sages will miss us here.

•

•

Letters

The

e

from America.

letters traveled for six

Many

mes-

weeks

—but

successfully reached the steamer.

Upon

the walls of the

room chosen

painted vases with many-colored plants. are

all

the symbols of Chintamani

the world.

And

its

the

bedroom walls

stone of the treasure of

big Berendey-like balusters.

are above a high threshold

And

On

dining-room are

the carved pillars, black from age, support the

dusky ceiling with

glass.

—the

as the

Little doors

and the narrow windows are without

before nightfall the

wind blows

* Painting of Roerich, 1915. [

122

]

freely

through the

LAMA YURU-HEMIS passageways.

floor

And upon

Yarkand. bal,

The

is

covered with bright felting from

the lower terrace a black

and the white dog, Amdong,

dog barks

new

are our

—Tum-

fellow travelers.

During the night the wind whistles and the old walls shake.

am

I

painting in the upper chamber which has

the roofs.

all

Its

doors have broad carved casements and the

have intricately frescoed

pillars

ceilings are patterned

before?

Where have “Snowmaiden”

in the

upon

exit

its

Where have

by age.

I

enter and say: “Well, here

is

Chicago

setting.

verily the true

chamber

seen this

Of

these bright colors sparkled? * in the

and dark

Stairs, steps

capitals.

My

course

dear ones

Berendey in

his

own

chamber.”

Berendeyev\a ended sooner than we thought

One must

tarry.

wind approaches. longer.

Karakorum before The way to Shayok is

pass

the

—the

fall

autumn

does not northeast

passable only a

Moreover, the people already have taken the bridges

apart for fuel, and the water has risen to the height of a

There remains the path through the Khardong and Sasser

Many

man.

passes.

varied imperative considerations cause us to hasten the date

of departure.

Hence with

With

a large caravan one

becomes a

subject.

mules and yaks, with rams and with

horses, with

—

we go on the old trail but with the signs of new possibiliwe will walk upon the mountains. And then down to the

dogs, ties,

week

deserts.

Is it

possible to descend

element of the sand

is

also

But the

beckoning and the desert nights and

And

sunrises are also glowing.

from the mountains?

in this

glimmer of beauty

lies

the

whole conception and hope.

Karakorum

—the black

throne.

Beyond

lies

China

—again the

old patrimony of Buddha.

*

Snowmaiden

in Roerich’s setting for the [

123

]

Chicago Opera Co., 1921.

ALTAI-HIMALAYA On

a red steed, unbridled,

with flaming banner, rushes the

Great Rider, in armor and blowing upon the sacred conch-shell.

From him sengers

are darting tongues of flame

—birds.

Behind him

and the White Tara send

lie

the mountains

the gathering of the Great Lamas.

in

is

held

Beneath him are the guardians

as the

symbols of the last

site.

This

day of our

Ladak.

In the courtyard they complete the loading of the yaks. are

mes-

Snows

exultingly

ancient Tibetan picture was brought to us on the life

fly

—Beluha.

Above him

blessings.

and herds of domestic animals

and before him

now

setting out!

And

the day

is

We

sparkling.

September

18th.

Part VI

LEH—KARAKORUM— KHOTAN (1925)

September 18th

At

last

one can

finally leave all of

Kashmir’s falseness and

dirt.

One can forget half-ruined Srinagar. One can forget the attack made on our caravan by armed bandits. The Moravian mission in

Leh has some

strange restrictions and informs us of

sent to rent us one of

ment

to

houses on condition that

do no “Religious,

one could explain etc.

its

just

And who

had.

No

what meaning the mysterious semi and

could pledge himself not to exceed the in-

We

along without the headquarters of the mission

Only

con-

sign an agree-

semi-religious, etc., propaganda.”

comprehensible limit of semi and etc.?

Only

the Ladaki King.

I

its

in the

were able

— in

to get

the Palace of

mountains does one

feel safe.

in the desert passes ignorance does not reach one.

September igth

We

learned

how

widespread are the legends about

Issa.

It is

the substance of these legends.

The

important only to

know

sermons related

them, of unity, of the significance of

and

all

for us.

in

the indications about Buddhism, are so remarkably timely

Lamas know

the significance of these legends.

why do people resent and knows how to slander the

so-called

that

many

basically true than

of the

many

so-called official

“Apocrypha.”

But

who

“Apocrypha”

documents?

[125]

can

And

Every one

slander these legends?

does not need a high intelligence. nize

woman

For slander fail

are

to recogfar

more

The Kraledvorsky

ALTAI-HTMALAYA manuscript which was accepted by every one happened to be a forgery

—while

many genuine documents do

consciousness.

one’s

It

enough

is

Evangel of the Ebionites.

It is better,

on the

legends of

“the best of

Issa,

human

contemporary consciousness

to

is

and be astonished how widely

how

persistent

For

we

biography.

this

—and

where

is

it

humanly to recommunicated in the Appreciate

how

close

the substance of these legends the East

all

knows

of

them and

loaded the yaks, horses, mules, donkeys,

an ethnographical museum.

where, according to tradition,

The

We

Issa first taught.

caravaneers are

passed the pool

To

the left remain

Behind them, the place where Buddha,

the prehistoric tombs. the

sons.”

—a complete biblical procession.

like a case of

it

Origen, Jerome

the repetition of them.

is

a long time

sheep, dogs

of

the so-called

instead of useless discussions,

and thoughts which are

facts

as

existence

second century, knows of

Irenaeus, in the

flect

remember

Such authorities

and Epiphany speak about the

now?

to

not enter into any

ancient founder of the Order, went northward through

Khotan.

Farther on, ruins of structures and the garden which

speaks so

much

We

to us.

which on the way, convey

to distant travelers their parting

The

of hope for the future.

with the temple Dukar

passed by stony reliefs of Maitreya,

—the

word

palace remained behind the rock,

many-armed Mother of the World. The last sign from Leh was the farewell of the women of Ladak. They went out upon the road carrying the illumined,

They

blessed milk of yaks.

sprinkled the milk on the fore-

heads of the horses and travelers in order to give them the

power

of yaks, so needed

pery ribs of the glaciers.

Up

to

Khardong, the

on the

steep inclines

and upon the

The women bade us farewell. ascent is easy. The hot sun set, and

toward evening there sprang up a sharp, cold wind. to spread

wind.

slip-

We

had

our camp on a naked Arctic plain, under the cutting

The Kashmiris

very slyly [

would not show the Ladakis

126]

LEH — KARAKORUM-KHOTAN many there

And

of the things.

by reason of the

at twilight,

gale,

was an indescribable confusion.

And

above us stood snow-covered Khardong!

rose unap-

It

proachably.

September 20th

We

ascended the pass on yaks at three o’clock in the morning.

These heavy, woolly animals are truly irreplaceable because of their soft step

broken

and

steadiness; but, of course, only

For a wild yak

in.

is

when

they are

Once, the

entirely untamable.

Tibetans provided unbroken yaks for a Chinese regiment and

immediately three-quarters of the riders were thrown to the

Our

earth. is

majestic but the entire

powerful

had

to

We tately

glacier.

The view from Khardong northern part of Khardong is one steep,

was not

ascent

The

difficult.

descent was tiresome and dangerous.

We

walk and creep! saw how one loaded yak tripped and was slipping

down

smooth

the

rib of the glacier;

of the precipice, the yak, straining his short strong

Many

feet.

itself,

but

precipi-

very edge

at the

down with

clutched

animals and people begin to be

attacked by hemorrhages and headaches along ascents higher than 16,000 feet;

we

on our way even now

is

seen frozen blood.

pass the skeleton of a horse that

well.

After the crossing they

was frozen on Khardong,

tell

had

a caravan of Baltis

screaming.

Even now,

come numb. One has sible to paint.

But beautiful lake.

They

their

Some

hands to

them with snow.

One can imagine how is

say

this

it is

threatening glacier!

it is

their

very deep. [

The

127]

us

all is

comprising about of the

mouths

in the fall, the fingers

to rub

With

us of an entire caravan that

one hundred horses was found frozen.

found frozen holding

fallen.

Already

and

men were as

though

toes soon be-

almost impos-

It is

here during the winter.

Far below

entire path

is

is

a turquoise

strewn with

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Looking back,

gigantic bowlders.

seems

it

though the pass

as

would be impenetrable. September 2 1st After the

of the pass and glacier the road seems

difficulties

After the piercing cold

easy.

—heat and

are hot; the mountains with their are

the beds of the streams.

into the stony masses

And

many

Sometimes

Briar roses

The

in the

sands

Here

stream disappears

a

indicates the

and tamarisks are every-

Nubra River

river itself, in flood tide, can

Now

torrent.

The

rims, recede.

the natives in this valley of the

friendly people.

ponderous

snowy

and only the rumbling tumult

flow of the invisible water.

where.

a vivid sun.

fall, its

current

is

are

become a

divided into

channels of unusually beautiful and intricate design.

We

go beyond the usual encampment.

We

in Territ, in a real Tibetan house.

slept overnight

In

camp there are three parties: Buddhist, Moslem and Chinese. They are not without mutual suspicions of one another. They eat separately. Our old Lun-po happens to be the son of the Elder in Leh and is a big landowner. He has his estates and houses everywhere, in Leh, in Hemis and in Territ and in different places in Changthang. He told us how many monasour

teries

were destroyed during the periods of past

one of his statues

own

houses here are such ruins, full of chips and

and the remains of destroyed books.

Lun-po came

to us only

to the question as to clearly

during the

who

last

days.

he was, he proudly

is

the treasurer in

are sorry that

He

came, and

lifted his eyes

and

He also tells Hemis and knows how many

shown

secreted objects there are not

remain with us and

to

go

his braid

is

really a

to visitors.

Lun-po wants

He wants to cut off my braid!”

to different countries.

learn Russian; he begs only one thing:

And

few

We

pronounced “Bhoti,” meaning Buddhist.

us his brother

to

In

invasions.

“Do

wonderful one [

128]

not

—black

and down

to

LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN his knees.

We

No

calmed him.

one will make any attempts

against this symbol of his national pride.

knows and

China the order has been given

that in

that in Tibet

it

show

And

He

are approaching his property

fits

We

—the

lock.

window, and

The sandy

designs of ornaments the swastika is

heavy

a

which

is

pillar

remain

pride he

are painted

and

fruit trees.

There

vivid cornice.

is

a great ring for a

covered with colored

is

to

With

fields

low broad door with

a

floor

middle of the room

A

room.

sleep in a frescoed Tibetan

a broad

walls of

There are many

over with a vivid design.

in a house.

and he begs us not

in the tents but to stay overnight in his house.

shows us the gates (Chorten)

good com-

a

is

panion for the heights and glaciers but hardly

We

queues

Lun-po, in moments of pleasure,

broad and healthy tongue.

a

to cut the

forbidden to show the tongue as a sign

is

of devotion and gratitude. likes to

Apparently he already

felt.

In the

often repeated.

In the

and on

a

wide

pilaster

is

an image of Chintamani, the Treasure of the World.

Every Tibetan

estate

The

the feudal palaces.

strangely reminiscent of the plan of

is

entire building

higher than the height of a man. gates.

Behind the wall

is

The

a square

is

entrance

as into

many

an armor

Beyond

hall.

is

through thick

of outer yard and here

horses are neighing and fires are burning.

go

surrounded by a wall

From

the yard you

the inner courtyard with

it is

doors into the household living quarters.

From there many rooms.

a ladder leads to the second floor,

which has

A

from which you have

similar ladder leads to a

vista of the far

ladder.

Ready

a broad

mountains, of rivers and the entire route.

corner of the roof like a tower.

roof

flat

also

is

And

The

occupied by an elaborately designed chamber to the roof of this

chamber

leads another

for the defense, independently, stand the Tibetan

estates. •

•

•

[

129]

•

•

— ALTAI-HIMALAYA September 22nd It

is

On

morning.

a clear

hedges of briar

roses.

It

the edges of the road are whole

Ahead

an easy journey.

is

golden sands and behind them the blue mountains,

with white caps of early snow. road

is

an old monastery

— Sandoling. Through

our lama?

there, perhaps,

even hot.

It is

We

A

of us are

shades

all

mile from the

decide to enter:

village dwellings,

not

Is

through

stony streams, through rocky masses, dangerous for the horses’

we

feet,

ascend.

We

were not attracted by the lamas in the

monastery; but behind them there

who knows much

one

is

something

invisible

—some

leading Sandoling on the path of the

is

future.

At Sandoling is the final outpost of Buddhism before the desert and therefore we wanted to know: What signs are in this

monastery?

There

is

image glowing with strong of Dukar.

It is

new

a

altar of

There

colors.

Maitreya with a is

an excellent image

pleasant to see the rich collection of banners

Among them

these banners were painted in Ladak.

very colorful ones of various fantastic subjects.

with vivid

silk.

monastery

is

There

shall hasten to find

of our

Lun-po

is

good

a

is

are

All are

The head lama

library.

him.

here

on the road

left

—but

It

we

shall

go

of the

In the

to the frontier.

a long village.

is

farther.

some

trimmed

Again we do not find our lama.

absent.

morning he had

early

new

We

Another house

The banks

of

the streams and the slopes of the mountain are covered with snow-

white soda.

The

strata of the

and brown, indicating the

how

mountain

slopes are blue, crimson

abundance of metals.

vast

It

some-

seems to us that radium must be here, in these blessed,

unexploited regions. •

•

•

•

•

September 23rd

The is

Of course, on maps, the frontier through Karakorum but upon the heights no one

frontier site—Panimikh.

indicated

—

[130]

LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN has established the frontiers

Of

human

course,

Panimikh, bridge

as

—and human kind ends in Panimikh

endeavor often extends further, to be expected for our

was

encountered by us in other

were told that

We

from Yarkand.

Beyond

further passage, the

This mysterious repairing of the roads was

fell to pieces.

We

also.

localities.

were stopping two Sahibs

in the village

had hardly had time

to

unfold our tents

they approached us; they were two Swedish missionaries,

when

They

one of them the ailing Germanson.

Germanson

the

of

tells

About

on the road.

places

difficult

return to Stockholm.

Chinese Turkestan he speaks without special enthusiasm. Opposite Panimikh, behind the a red rock, as though glued,

river,

on the background of

a monastery of the

is

Red

Sect.

Against the red background of the mountains, one cannot even

approach

see the

to the

monastery.

It is as

though, to save

itself

from enemies, the monastery had flown up and perched on the unseen ledge.

Far

goes to the right almost touching the

evening,

we

There

a fantasy of

is

Nubra, and our road

to the left flows the

row

of

cliffs.

are nearing the foot of the pass,

mountain masses.

We

So,

toward

Karaul davan.

pause at the very

beginning of the steep ascent.

The evening ends with an unexpected encounter with a Moslem. At the frontier of the desert there proceeds a talk about

Mohammed,

about the domestic

his reverence for

ment

of the

of Jesus

is

woman.

The

life

of the Prophet

and about

talk continues about the

move-

Achmadis, and about legends saying that the tomb

in Srinagar

about the legends of

and the tomb of Mary Issa!

Moslems

in Kashgar.

Again

are especially interested in

these legends.

The moon comes!

rises in conflict

with the bonfires.

Finally the lama

In order to avoid the bridge he was led

through a torrent.

In the mountains, [

131

]

it is

somewhere

so everywhere.

Even

ALTAI-HIMALAYA may

being familiar with thirty ways, you

The lama

first.

go on

will

not

know

the thirty-

the pass by night; they prepare a

lantern and an ax for him. •

«

•

•

«

September 24th Karaul davan, although lower than Khardong, seemed to us

more

What

bowlders along the descent. here, to polish

was a path of good

Many

Here

briars. all

positions,

that the evil smell

and is

skeletons are congealed as

Territ

Horses,

:

in all stages of decomposition.

little

perceived in this cold

jumping

in a

if

Among

was drowned.

position.

the bowlders,

air.

It is

we

Omar-Khan’s horse

squeezed together between the rocks. the fording a sheep

entailed

Near

started the trail of skeletons

like the last leap of the Valkyries.

At

work was

gigantic

and accumulate these heavy bulks!

donkeys, yaks, in It is

masses of enormous

Especially severe are the

difficult.

are fell.

possible that the great

Is it

caravan paths of the past eternally came up against these huge

masses ?

From behind

a stone rises a strange figure in a woolly

and

a lantern.

The moon

rose early

cap, a fur kaftan

Yarkandi.

of the pass successfully. It

This

is

knowledge.

the lama dressed as a

and the lama crossed the comb

The same day

—an unexpected discovery. He

appears that the lama speaks Russian.

of our friends.

When

one spoke Russian in his presence, not a

And

never once showed his knowledge of what

of

it is

clear

how

difficult

knowledge of the lamas.

it

is

Toward

for four hours, although

two hours.

We

we

could

still

we

said in Russian.

the evening

measure

— snow

to interrupt the

and

march

have proceeded boldly

gave in unnecessarily

[132]

in his answers he

to appraise the

wind; the servants and caravaneers decide

for

many

even knows

All the while no one would have suspected such

muscle revealed that he understood.

Once more

Yarkand

—and

we came

right

LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN We

into a strip of the first snow. ful glacier,

pass the night near the power-

Two more

amidst endless bowlders.

horses

fell.

September 25th

The approach is

to Sasser Pass

is

a complete Arctic stillness.

The

beautiful spot.

higher than 17,000

and snowpeaks

Glaciers

are broad lines; all the

try to hide

it

There are

Omar-Khan

from

lost

As

us.

two more

we

Overnight

mencing.

numb

human

also this

if

up

There

structure.

Everywhere are the tombs, and our people

could have any effect on us!

The purga

horses.

(blizzard)

are thickly covered with

water in the pitchers freezes.

hands become

most

ornaments and arabesques are discarded.

people become more concentrated.

bodies of animals.

—a

billows of the clouds roll by and open

new, endlessly new, combinations of the cosmic

The

There

feet.

It is

so quickly.

is

snow.

com-

The

impossible to paint because the

Kashmir we Our fur shoes come in

good that

It is

lined our tents with heavy material.

in

handy.

You,

my young

friends,

I

remind you

to provide yourselves

with clothes for heat and especially for cold. quickly and sharply.

Have always

ties.

at

hand

erations are the teeth

Have bandages

colds.

Suddenly you cease a

eat

much.

Do

is

and

for cuts

Very useful

is

The

used in the tea keeps the

chief consid-

also prevention against

All this has already

—pyramidon.

light

your extremi-

of wine on the heights

Tibetan tea; It is

cold approaches

to feel

chest.

bruises.

Any kind

Against headaches

and warms one very well.

which

medicine

and the stomach;

been of use in our caravan. very harmful.

little

The

it

is

One

lips

should not

really a

and nourishing.

is

hot soup

The soda

from painful chapping.

not overfeed the dogs and horses, otherwise bleeding will

begin and you will have to do away with the animal.

path

is

covered with the traces of blood.

The whole One must make sure,

in advance, that the horses have already been [

133

]

on the heights.

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Many

remain

social differences are erased; all

Young

ing, equally near to danger.

conditions of the caravan

ways

will

you learn

certain step

the

is

number

you

On

untried horses perish at once.

work-

just people, equally

know

you must

friends,

all

Only upon such

with the elements, where each un-

already an actual death.

There you will forget

There the

and hours.

of days

difficult passes all

in the desert.

life

to fight

such

shine for

stars will

The foundation of all teachings is bitter-sweet, summer suburban camps, but

heavenly runes.

as

Not

fearlessness.

in

on the severe heights, learn keenness of thought and resource-

Not only during

fulness of action.

toriums, but

work

upon

of matter

lectures, in well-heated audi-

the cold glaciers, realize the

and you

beginning of something

Again the piercing

will understand that each still

gale.

more

The

the tent are flapping noisily

significant

fire

—they

and

power end

to

but the

is

beautiful.

The wings

becomes dim.

want

of the

of

fly.

September 2 6th Sasser

davan met us

a pricking

purga had commenced.

gigantic moraine

is

it

We

will be

marked with many bodies

is

Before

severely.

ascend to Sasser

dawn

—

worse.

still

of animals.

The

Our

this

We

completely covered with frozen snow.

hurry to go farther because path

way most

in every

entire

icy trail

along

the edge sometimes narrows completely, only allowing of a horsehoof.

The

through the

from

glaciers.

Gegen had an

Especially dangerous

his horse.

on the greenish

the sun flashes

—

endurable glow.

all

ice.

walked

is

the ascent

Amidst the

the white

six

on the arched is

glaciers, for a

kingdom

slipping

moment,

dazzles with an un-

Straight before us appears a

wondrous

black lake between white shores; and again everything

Beyond the

ered by the opaque purga. [

134

]

hours

attack of bleeding; he fell

Sabsa, George’s horse,

surface of the cap of the glacier. terribly

We

horses proceed by themselves.

glaciers

we

is

little

cov-

proceed

— LEH-KARAKORUM-KHOTAN They

grazing camels.

we

our astonishment,

Finally, to

along an Arctic ridge.

travel as far as the

see

northern foot of Sasser,

and there take over the loads which were transported by horses and yaks through the Sasser. Some of our Ladakis going through the passes for the

time, never have seen camels

first

and timidly they go around these long-bodied

My

horses are snorting. his

pass by Sasser Serai

The

Gurban, looks back, and shaking

threateningly repeats: “Sasseri!

fist,

We

hostler,

curiosities.

—a ruined

Sasseri!”

We

stony square.

stopped

in the beautiful valley beside the current of the river Shayok.

On

the right

By

Turkestan.

the

of

side

and

and

in

some

places even to

dangerous for horses and men.

is

week

the road takes almost a

Unexpectedly,

purple rocks.

It is

the unseen one.

longer. into a

astonishing to

remember

white giants.

we come

One

often disappear.

order to

road to

winter

go with

In September the river reaches the height of one’s

the stream.

way.

the

road one avoids the passes, but one has to

this

cross the river very often,

shoulders,

stream passes

narrow

The it

descended from them.

go the shorter

shall

between two

crevice

what extent

has to pass these places

all

And

We

In addition,

all

signs of a road

more than once

the contours and windings of the road colors are beautiful. is

To

peaks and yellow slopes.

Behind us

strange to realize that

are purple

are the

we have

left

and velvety brown

little

rocks.

islands.

To

right flows the river

and clouds of snowy dust whirl about.

sky

Milky white clouds,

is

not

at rest.

creeping behind Sasser.

Had we

we would have avoided September monsoon of Kashmir Sasser

the

just

—many sharply outlined snowStraight ahead of us — the light gray

the

bed of Shayok, with some reddish and bronze-green

Beyond them

in

like

the

The

heavy threads, are

hurried ahead one day toward

these

snowy

creeps along

persecutions.

The

and pursues us over

mountains, changing from a pouring rain into a severe [

135

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA The

purga.

Nature

restlessness of

The

reflected in the animals.

is

horses are kicking; the dogs are snarling. o

•

•

•

•

September 27th

At dawn, everything

again frozen.

is

The

with a deep snow. have to ford Shayok.

Everything

Now

horses are shivering.

Like black

covered

they will

silhouettes, the riders are hurry-

They have succeeded

ing upon the light shore.

is

in finding a

fording place, where the water reaches up only to the stomach of the horse.

After the broad valley

canyon.

It

was formed

blue stream, the

were

full of

we

down

at

once into a narrow

an unusually fantastic way.

in

The

night was cracking.

ice of the

white cracks

dived

—like

pages of runes.

We

pected ascents and turns in narrow passes.

On

ures.

emerged upon

The

No, they

a

varied treas-

—

moving two lonely figures every new this silence. Are these not treasure seekfrom some caravan

are people

and twigs of withered bush, sibility

some inner

reflect

the slopes are

being astonishes one in ers?

red walls

Again, unex-

broad valley surrounded by vari-colored mountains. shining layers in the mountain slopes

In the

of obtaining fuel

for their

fire.

sent for

After

roots

this, all pos-

gone and one must make provision

is

for several days.

Among

the mountains are small,

shores quick

little

few

eagles.

On

stopped unusually early

On

The

the mossy altitude of

Ravens are cawing.

account of the lack of fuel

—by

two

o’clock.

sacks to gather the roots of bushes. zoli,

lakes.

wood-snipes are scurrying.

16,000 feet does not frighten them. are very

muddy

The

As on

There

we

also

people went with

the frescoes of Goz-

appear the groups of faceted purple mountains, cut by

warm

brown hillocks. Light yellow swamp grass covers the deep valley. The black horses stand out with unusual sharpness against They seem immeasurably big. the light yellow background. [136]

LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN Here

in the

spaces of Asia originated the tales of the

Giant

the height or the purity of the air

which

Bogatyrs.

Either

makes

proportions bigger, and the rider,

all

behind a

is

who

appears from

The middle-sized Kirghiz dog bear. The scale of measurements

looks like a giant.

on the proportions of

takes is

hill,

it

a

great here.

Mighty must be the streams

with these eroded pebbles.

broad river beds

filled

the beauty of the

Grand Canyon you

Near Karakorum you giants

—

is it

What

feel

some

Reflected in

tragic catastrophe.

long incomprehensible labor as of

feel the

not here that structures of the future were prepared

The

wind!

skin

chapped

is

very difficult with the languages

It is

six

a

mountains to leave such

in the

though

as

?

cut.

—in the caravan one hears

languages absolutely unrelated to each other.

The

provision of hay has disappeared.

hostlers

ate

how,

we

understood that our

up

a

The cook was

deeply offended.

informing us about various significant things.

is

news

is

known

in various countries,

colors.

is

to us

—but

Again we

is

under

are astonished at the

The whole

it

of Asia

wandering organization.

glasses

is

pierced as with roots by

astonishing

It is

fires,

like

glow-worms,

Quicker than by couriers,

And

is

how quickly the And then, these

unexpected

attract

winged news

the

they whisper beside the long pipe.

September It

flies

of different

knowledge of the organi-

news spreads without any mail communications. caravan

instructive to see

being reflected the very same con-

Different countries are as

zation of lamas. this

long time: Finally,

the hay.

of this

ditions.

clear that the

Nazar-bey screamed

The lama

Much

is

have fed their horses with the hay.

something for cook

It

.

.

.

listeners.

to the bazaars.

Understand!

2 8th

a cold night.

Everything

is

firmly frozen.

The

day was woven out of beautiful yellow and red tones. [

137

]

entire

First

we

ALTAI-HIMALAYA We

proceeded upon the steep, crumbling slopes of the red gorge. passed the old stony rampart

little

old river bed

along

iridescent, yellow,

Afterwards,

streams.

— the

hillside

Debsang.

we For

;

with cragged walls

like cities

six

hours

long-silenced.

It

like solitary

;

colored with infinite feeling.

week.

I

But the caravaneers are looking

Kashmiri dragon already shows E.

I.

would

has been on horseback

watch-

monuments

never repeated,

a full variety,

is

we went

are like pyra-

towers; like gates to some forbidden countries; like of battles,

green and

crossed to the broad

They

of solemn sand formations.

all sorts

mids of giants

remains of military fortresses

Below were the

or frontier posts.

ultramarine

—the

like to stop here for a at the

sky where the icy

stormy wings.

its

She does not

the ten days.

all

She had never been horseback riding and

like small decisions.

And

here she suddenly went on horseback through Karakorum.

always she injured in

is

valiant

and the

first

one ready.

Kashmir has somehow ceased

Even her knee

to trouble her.

It

is

simply astonishing! In the evening colder.

It

we

would be

reached Debsang davan.

better

Debsang were

if

meaning the Red Throne. At

It

called

became

still

Ulan Korum,

the entrance protrudes a powerful

rock like a red cap.

Be cautious with the mountain streams. They their crystal purity but in the water

rejoice

one with

behind a turn there

may

be

a dead horse or a camel with a bloody jaw. •

•

•

•

•

September 29th

We world.

passed Debsang. It is

disappeared.

We

impossible to call

went out upon the roof of the it

otherwise.

All the peaks have

Before us there are seeming covers as of some

powerful inner domes.

Looking

at these

sandy domes

possible to imagine one’s self at an altitude of 18,000 feet. less spaces.

To

the

left,

far off,

is

[138]

it

is

im-

Limit-

Godwin’s White Peak.

To

LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN on the horizon are the masses of Kuen

the right

All

lun.

is

so

The blue sky merges on are domes of a golden hue. like pure white cones. The

variegated and glorious and sweeping.

pure cobalt and the grassless cupolas

And file

the far-off peaks are silhouetted

of the caravan does not disturb the silence of the highest road

of the world.

The

hostler asks:

What

an even surface?

We

it is

is

that here, at such a height

hundred

cases

There

a sharp

The men

is

We

We

wind blowing.

reach

are hurrying

but the crossing has to be

it

was already too dark

we

and

is

Its

when we reached

to sketch or to take photographs.

It is

considered

is

of snow, but this

Karghalik

left until

In

decided to go to Suget davan and Sanju davan

instead of Karghalik. 18,000 feet

toward

Karakorum means Black Throne.

black cap had been seen for several miles, but

the evening

think that

of the expedition were buried in this place.

to-morrow morning.

it

such

there inside?”

of the Fillippi Expedition here.

Karakorum.

it,

is

read a Latin inscription upon a stone, concerning the

camping a

“Why

way we

much

true that Sanju difficult,

also higher than

depending upon the amount

save six days.

water, and

is

some

Besides,

of the

on the way

men complain

to

that

several times a

day they have to go waist-deep in water, and in

October

dangerous.

this

is

September 30th

Karakorum. Again everything with a stinging blizzard.

at times

All that

seven o’clock to

is

The morning

begins

covered with mist.

One

Vaguely the black cap of Kara-

gleams through.

we now

saw yesterday.

frozen.

Everything

cannot sketch nor photograph.

korum

is

see has

nothing in

common

with what

we

Thus we proceed under the sharp wind from two in this rarefied air. The pass itself is broad

but not difficult except for those on foot. [

139

]

One

has the strange

ALTAI-HIMALAYA sensation of feeling breathless even at the slightest

Upon the who pass,

in spite of their breathlessness,

landmark

to

The

crest of the pass

commemorate

descent

is

pyramid of stones

a small

is

movement.

do not forget

—those

to set a

the conquest.

not steep, but the wind becomes stronger.

It is

necessary to cover the face with something, and one remembers the usefulness of Tibetan silk masks for traveling.

day the snow slows

—whole no

down and

panoramas appear

masses of snowy cupolas and cones.

There are even

birds.

At

six o’clock

deep silence

is

we a

a full

We

whole amphitheater of

moon— and

We

cross the highest road of the world, 18,600 feet.

soil!”

and

Our Chinese

October

We posite

some reason shakes

for

meditatively utters: “Chinese his head.

reached the division of the road to Kokyar or Sanju.

Baksun Bulak

is

a

wondrous white mountain

delicate in

its

of the frozen Fjords of

Ladoga

in

powerful.

winter.

The

profiles.

Norway

But here

it

is

—so

fine, so

or the blue fairy-tale of

all

more broad and more

Before us, in the distance, are mountains etched with

road grazed two Tibetan antelopes

—one

raised

The Buddhists did “We have enough food with us.” Some one

gazed long

Op-

bright sun reminded

white outlines, as upon the old Chinese landscapes.

at the caravan.

Right

the confidence of these slender creatures.

donkey with

The

cross

1st

untouched and

a

The There

a sight never seen before.

is

in the

the silence of cold, pure, undefiled nature.

the frontier of China.

me

Around us snowy summits.

pause on a broad river bed.

delicacy of the pearly tones is

beautiful white

During the

a fragrant load of

cinnamon.

people explain that this tired

rest until the

next caravan.

little

head and

not shoot them: else will betray at the

Where

is

road

his

lies

owner ?

donkey has been

There are no wild

[140]

its

Near the

beasts here.

left to

And

— LEH— KARAKORUM— KHOTAN We

traveler will break this special ethic of the caravan.

no

saw loads

left

by some people on

also

They remained

Sasser.

untouched.

October 2nd In the frosty sun of the morning, before our camp, the

Mount

Thus, the Mahatma Ak-

Patos was clearly outlined.

named

Dorje, passing from Tibet,

this

summit

highest

Ridge (Patos phonetically, but Aktag in the

mount

snowy of the

local dialect).

The

stands above the division of road to Karghalik-Yarkand

The path Karghalik-Yarkand

and Karakash-Khotan. there are only

two

lower

is

passes, not very high, but therefore

having

The Karakash-Khotan path is higher and more mountainous. The passes are higher but on the other hand

many

rivers.

shorter.

The mount towers like a cone between the two wings of the white ridge. The lama, upon hearing about it, whispers: “The great teacher

Buddhism

The day on,

is

was not against a

good

teaching.’

started peacefully.

up the gradual

true

Buddhism.

He

said

‘The true

”

We

continued from seven o’clock

incline of Suget davan.

The

ascent

is

almost

many

skeletons.

The

peace of Nature forces you to forget the altitude.

Near the

road

lies

imperceptible and

a

woolly

imperceptibly,

it

is

little

we

not startling to see so

dog

just as

though

reached the Pass

itself.

so

it

was

The

here.

straight

the white

mournful design. spots of the

black sky.

snowy

is

always severe.

and easy way was suddenly

carved out into a powerful, jagged ascent. spread

three o’clock

well always to

It is

ask about the northern side of the Pass; this side

And

By

alive.

In the distance were

purple mountains covered by a somewhat

A

blizzard

commenced; and

dust, pitilessly

resounded the almost bluish-

The path was completely

covered.

Four caravans had assembled, comprising up

[141]

into the bare

to four

hundred

ALTAI-HIMALAYA The

horses.

loaded, experienced mules were

The

followed them.

entire descent

And

and shoving.

bling, gliding

It

we

The

air vibrated

with the

everything crept down, stum-

The people were

was dangerous.

W reached the stopping-point only

astonished at the early snow. at

sent ahead;

was covered with the black

zigzags of the silhouettes of horses. shouts of “Hosh! Hosh!”

first

nine o’clock in the evening, by moonlight.

The Turks

quar-

Nazar-bey wanted to lead us some-

reled with the Buddhists.

The Chinese rushed

him with a whip. The human quarrels affected the animals. The horses began to snort. The affair ended with a fight of the dogs wild Tumbal hurt where

far off.

at

—

Amdong very E.

I.

seriously.

goes on horseback for more than thirteen hours without

dismounting.

It

shows that the usual

conquered by something October

else,

so-called fatigue

may

be

more powerful.

yd

Again, the

piles of stones;

beautiful against the

warm

red and yellow bushes appear, very

white haze of the sands.

willow appears beside the stream.

A

meager

Partridges and hares are seen.

whole, surprisingly few animals.

We

passed by some

old walls transformed into heaps of stone.

The

people are anx-

But

as a

ious to reach the Chinese post,

we

ally

descend.

Kurul or Karaul-Surget.

Already some kind of

flat

Gradu-

walls are seen.

—

Somebody runs out from behind the gates then scurries to hide. Some one comes out to meet us. Amidst the wide hot plain, surrounded by snow mountains, stands the clay square, Kurul.

mers Kuen

lun.

In the fortress are twenty-five soldiers, Sarts

and Kirghiz and one Chinese lator.

hung With

We

saw no arms.

Only

a big single-barreled this

In the distance, enticingly glim-

officer

in the

gun with

and

trans-

narrow room of the

officer

with

a secretary

a cock, like a duck’s head.

instrument one cannot shoot very much.

[142]

LEH-KARAKORUM-KHOTAN Chinese frontier

If Shin-lo, this

how

touched

we were by

would only know

officer here,

his hearty reception!

Isolated in these

mountains, deprived of every means of communication,

far-off

this officer

by

and kindness reminded us of those

his help

of the better China.

It

was

so important to us

—because

we go And we

China with sincere friendship and an open heart!

to

met and

we

said farewell to Shin-lo

most

heartily.

traits

Out

of friendship

even unfolded our tents on the dusty yard of the

The

fort.

people wanted to remain here at least one more day, because the desert has already begun.

They

But we regret some-

rejoice.

thing unrepeatable: Crystals of the summits, will the lace of the desert sands

Other caravans

you?

replace

around the camp-fire.

arrive.

Conversation, smiles, pipes and

They rest.

talk

They

whisper: “In Bhutan, they await the coming soon of Shambhala.”

—“First was

India, then China, afterward Russia

be Shambhala.”

.

.

and now

will

.

Temple under the image of Buddha is an underground lake. Once a year they descend and throw into the lake

“In the boiling

precious stones.”

Thus

is

.

.

.

being discussed a whole saga of beauty.

Camp-fires!

You

stand like banners of the people’s

a mile

from Kurul when we reached the

Fire-flies of the desert!

decisions.

October 4th

We

had not passed

current of the river, Karakash daria, which

means Black

Nefrite.

Along the streams of Karakash were found certain kinds of jade which gave to Khotan its past glory. One of the western gates of the great

Wall of China was even

because through

used to be brought these beloved stones.

it

in these places they

of jade.

The

recalls the best

called the Jade

Gate

Now

do not even remember about the quarrying

color of

Karakash

kinds of jade.

It is

[i43]

daria,

so bluish-green,

itself

a quick river, a joyous river,

ALTAI-HIMALAYA And

a noisy river.

We pass

would think

the native country, not only of jade

is

For several days Karakash daria becomes our

but also of gold. guide.

this

several

—venerated Moslem graves.

Mazars

One

that their semispherical roofs, with a tower in the

middle, were nothing else than the forms of an ancient Buddhist Chorten.

When we

approached the tomb of a

down from

guide jumped

offered his worship.

body

so beautiful a

Fort Shahidula Besides,

in

Kirghiz

beautiful gesture

expect from this clumsy

difficult to

movement. abandoned

is

and with a

his horse

was

It

saint, the

—

it is

these places, cannons

the usual lonely clay square.

made

have never yet

their

appearance and have not threatened the clay walls. It

becomes

The

hot.

and above 18,000

it

altitude

is

not more than 12,000 feet

the yaks are ready for the passage of

We

word Sanju davan. Toward

affects the breathing.

—the northeastern

ning the shamal sprang up time

we were

tains

were hidden; the sky became gray.

it

and moved slowly

encountered.

horses slink

gale.

in the midst of a real sand ptirga.

the sand rose

thing

receive

down and

The

As

For the

The

red

that evefirst

moun-

high, thick pillars,

in a spiral, penetrating every-

The

try to fly into midair.

tents

All color-

turn their backs to the winds.

and only Karakash hastens on

—as

emerald

as

proceeded through the entire day, along the Karakash.

It

ings disappear before.

•

•

•

•

•

October 5th

We is

difficult to

remember how many times we forded

In some places it

it

reached up to the horse’s belly, in other places

was lower than the knees.

was washed away.

We

had

On

one rocky edge the entire

to hurry

and

bowlders in the tumult of the current. stony road.

Two

the river.

cross along separate

Again came

horses of Nazar-bey broke their legs.

where, the shamal of yesterday

left

[i44]

its

trail

traces.

a severe

Every-

Mountains are

— LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN All day, a cloud of all-penetrating

covered with a gray haze. dust hangs in the

ing

is

The

changed.

sky has become purple.

ous river glimmers as before with little

first

encampments of

yurtas covered the rock.

Small

fields

The whole

One’s eyes smart.

air.

felts,

color-

Only the

joy-

The

greenish sparks.

its

mountain Kirghiz appeared

the

or stony squares leaning against the

Here

begin.

women

are small Kirghiz

high white head-dresses and red kaftans, some with peaked Kirghiz caps.

If

turesque group

is

soft tones of the

in a bright red kaftan

and

On

child in a light gray cover.

Beside her

Who the

would wish

trails

above the turbulent

river.

We

have not the energy to stop in

On

the neighboring slopes

the

two holds the pegs

spot.

Gradually

a lock torn

horse

fell

we

dim purple Very

steep lie

site

in a

is

camp.

There

and neither of

With difficulty we damage in the luggage.

of the tents.

discover the

sky.

yard permeated with dust.

also difficult to

is

a

dusty caravanserai.

a

is

is

in a green

The camping

either solid rock only, or soft shifting sands

the

is

it

this

man

Egypt?

to paint the Flight to

sandy valley, in the middle of which

is

In her arms

a

is

Above them

kaftan with a red-peaked hat.

woman

a tiny gray donkey, a

high head-dress.

a

pic-

purple background of the sandy

set against the

mountains.

little

A

only the photographs are successful!

in

find a

Here

away; there a ya\htan has been soaked when the

into the river.

Again, the camp-fires.

known woolly

people.

Again there gather some

We

must

say,

harm.

these clumsy strangers did us

sort of

however, that none

The

un-

among

notorious thievery of

the Kirghiz did not touch us.

Again, some of the whispers of the camp-fires: “Burkhan Bullat

(meaning the Sword of Buddha) appears then nothing will withstand

it.”

—“Ulan

at certain

145

]

and

Tserik became terribly

— strong.” “Everything that the enemies do — themselves.” “More than a hundred years [

dates

will

turn

ago two

against scientist

— ALT AI-HI MALAYA Brahmins went

“The go

to

to

Shambhala and

Buddha was

Blessed

— northwards.” “In Abbot

Conqueror the

— One.” “The before the

way

is

Khotan and from

in

there decided

one of the best monasteries of China

the doctor of metaphysics

the head

out toward the north.”

set

a Buriat.”

is

— “On a Kalmuck.”

—“In

the big Monastery

the picture of

from the sword

fire of justice flashes

Buddha

the

of the Blessed

Prophet said that Damascus would be destroyed

new

Thus

era.”

the pilgrims are whispering

We

of Gaya, Sarnath or to Mecca.

meet long

files

of gray-

bearded A\huns and veiled female figures on the road. are hastening before the approaching winter.

They

on the

They

are a speedy

mail.

The day ended with an

invisible

Gigantic clouds of dust like

a sliamal.

transmigration of the peoples.

One must know

Where else is there such extremities of heat and frost? Where else are the winds so unbearable after midday? Where are the rivers so treacherous when they overflow during the floods and where are the sands also this threatening

so pitiless?

image of Asia.

And where

else

is

the gold not

removed from the

Where else are so many skulls gleaming white under sun? The broad hand of Asia!

banks? the

October 6th

Again we make our way along

the Karakash.

We

come

to a

great old Kirghiz cemetery, mazars with the semispherical vaulted roofs.

Low

tombs surrounded with

hanging on the ends.

staffs

and with

horse-tails

Unquestionably these mazars are very

often old Buddhist Chortens.

Beyond

the mazar,

we

leave the

stream of Karakash and begin noticeably to ascend the mountain

The gorge graduAt the left in the yellow sandstone mounally narrows here. They are like the tain we notice caves several stories high. caves of Tun-huang. The natives and caravaneers say that they against the current of a

mountain stream.

[

146]

LEH— KARAKORUM— KHOTAN we recognize The approaches

are old Kirghiz houses, but of course,

here the

remains of a vanishing Buddhism.

to

worn away by

of these caves have been

the elements.

above, like aeries, remain the isolated entrances.

if

It

charac-

is

from Sanju Pass

that these caves are hidden not far

teristic

many High as

they protected themselves by these mountains, from the waves

The

of Islam.

caves

Gurban,

in these regions but

The

them.

An

hostler,

a

Moslem, knows of other similar

somehow

is

caves nevertheless

apparently scornful of

are very

imposing.

immeasurable antiquity emanates from these mountains.

The sandy haze

them seemingly

elevates

And

into the skies.

the mountains, instead of signifying limits and obstacles, tempt

We

us once again upward.

had heard

that there

reach the very bottom of Sanju.

was no snow on the Pass but we had hardly

received this information

when

the Kashmiri dragon overtook

us and everything began to be covered with snow.

We

ing storm.

The caravan

arrives

avalanche of yaks

down

tramples

It is

a pierc-

huddled together, awaiting the belated

are

We

is

dark.

the

in

From

the

Pass,

tents.

black

a

rushing on, and while running, almost

Noise and rumble.

the camp.

Snow and

cold.

But the camp, crouched in the gorge, looks unusually picturesque. Something,

The

as of the paintings of old

fire-light shines

on the bronze

On

tents flutter like birds.

Omarkhan.

Again there

holy mountain Sabur are

many

with the

the rocks

are whispers of the desert:

seen an

unknown

ancient

“Near the

city.

There

To-morrow we must arise and at day-break snow and wind

houses and Chortens.”

stars.

will start

is

Through the dark one yaks. The wings of the is the gigantic shadow of

faces.

horns of the black, invisible

sees the

Bosch or Peter Breughel.

It is

up again

a long

way

—

to assail us.

October 7th Nevertheless, the dragon overtook us during the night. f

147]

Every-

— ALTAI-HIMALAYA thing

We

snow and

covered with

is

The

hurry on.

— 18,300

But

feet.

seventh pass

it

is

Sanju.

is

How

not long.

We are again astonished at them.

ceed!

the chest of

my

We

frozen.

try out the yaks.

It is

the steepest one

clingingly the yaks pro-

The

saddle strap around

We

yak gives away with a snap.

must bind

it

with cords because on the steep descents one strap will not hold.

Only the very summit of Sanju must

skillfully

jump

There the yak

dangerous.

is

between two upper crags

across the crevice

There you must resign yourself

of a bare rock.

Gegen

footedness of the yak.

happily only bruises his leg. the northern side

is

It

might be worse.

amount

a great

down from

falls

We

of snow.

and slipping on the sharp zigzags, we descend

completely merge.

tains

heights, where, although

verberating!

lenge to

cold,

is

it

pity

a

is

There the word,

it

must hasten;

with

best flat

snow moun-

farewell to the

crystally

desert, itself

but

course on

—those

to bid is

Of

It is

In the silvery fog, the It

his yak,

steeply.

not to take mountain sticks with sharp points metallic points are better.

to the sure-

pure and

re-

sounds like a chal-

already transformed into ruins, or not yet thus

all cities

fallen.

Why

does

it

seem so sad

to depart further

Kwen

from

lun,

from the most ancient ridge ?

The encampments

women and

of

Mountain Kirghiz

—one

children are clean

start

again.

The

does not see the dreadful

disfiguring skin diseases.

Down caves.

below in the sandy

From

middle

amassed.

of

the

—

it is all

the

also,,

hillside,

From them

forms: Rhinoceroses, skeletons

some dark hollows

these caves woolly yaks creep out

into prehistoric times; then,

the

inclines are

and transport you

the same thing happened.

yellow

worn-away

hillocks

In are

protrude stone blocks of most fantastic

tigers,

work

dogs and some

of water

[148]

sort of

which has long

enthroned

since flowed

— LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN The

away.

One

hillside

does not see

snow

warm

fenced by the

is

purple mountains.

We stopped

in the direction of the desert.

Within,

near an aul comprising nine yurtas.

is

it

They

clean.

bring out melons, watermelons and peaches which they get from

alive

Guma

The mountains

are

with ringing echoes, barking and neighing thunder out

like

Bazaar or the

the Sanju

Bazaar.

The Kirghiz women show

trumpets in the mountain gorges.

their embroideries but they will not sell; each

works

for herself.

October 8th

We

short tranquil passage.

It is a

Sanju

oasis.

there

is

stopped ten miles from the

Isolated yurtas of Kirghiz are scattered about.

Often

one boy driving a whole caravan of camels.

Each day

come

patients

Once more we

what mean the great sands

feel

all-penetrating, searing,

the mountains

with stomach trouble or colds.

to us

become

not more than 7,000

is

not lower than 4,000

A

series of paintings,

What

impeding the breathing.

The

visibly lower.

is

of the desert

feet,

regret;

altitude of the path

while the southern part of the desert

feet.

becomes warmer and warmer.

It

“Maitreya,”

conceived.

is

— camp-fires. “Rinpoche says that now the way — Shambhala— everybody knows that” “Many — buried everywhere” “Three campaigns of the

Again there is

are

only through

prophecies

are

— Mongols” “In

the desert behind Keriya a subterranean river flowed above the

ground”

—“And

of precious

when they dynamited the rock it was all not stones” “And there, where one cannot pass, one

—

can go by underground passages.”

Much

is

related

.

.

.

and the matters of every day

are interwoven

with something great and already predestined.

Much

spoken about underground passages.

natural.

many

castles,

passages

which

But

it

is

are glued to the rocks, long

were constructed

to [

the water,

149

]

is

being

From

underground

and through

these,

ALTAI-HIMALAYA donkeys used

new

Gradually before

to carry the water.

us, rises a

picture of significant lives.

October gth Sanju

—an we

We

oasis.

farewell

said

them.

Of

are probably not worse than these

—but

course,

shall return to

The

them.

whispered.

thing unusual:

rock which

we saw

we

a farewell

On

—the

still

mountain bestowed on us someon the very

last

touch, appeared the same designs that

on the way back

in Dardistan

from

sad to descend

the border of the oasis, just

could

mountains

on us what the heights have

desert cannot bestow

As

course, other it is

Of

mountains.

the

to

to

Ladak.

In the books

about Ladak, these are called Dard designs, although apparently

And

they bring us back to the Neoliths.

here,

in

Turkestan, on the shiny brown masses of rock, are again, silhouettes,

same

the

archers,

cessions of people.

These are

grations of the people. this, that these

kingdom.

And

designs were

ritual dances,

rounds and pro-

verily messengers of the transmi-

there

left

is

some

special

meaning

in

on the border of the mountain

Farewell, mountains!

Groves of poplars and apricot spreads the

as light

same mountain sheep with

the

huge twisted horns and the same

Chinese

kingdom

trees appear,

of the sand.

It

and beyond them

reminds us of Egypt along

the Nile, or of Arabia. It is

time for breakfast and

are galloping is

we want

toward us and beckon us

to stop; but to

come

some

farther.

riders

There

already prepared a dastar\han from the Kirghiz Elders.

bright patterned

felts,

On

picturesquely are spread heaps of melons,

watermelons, pears, eggs, roast chicken and in the center, half of a baked mutton.

looking as

if

Here

are

round yellow cookies, with

holes,

they might have been torn out of a painting by

Peter Aerdsen.

It

reminded us of dear Kluchino, Novgorod,

of our excavations of the Stone [

Age and

150]

of hospitable Efim.

LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN And

here are the same kaftans, and beards, and colored girdles

and small caps bordered with wolf fur or beaver.

many

of fact,

of these bearded

and are very pleased

if

they possess

They know almost nothing distribute

among

men know

these people books in

were minus uniforms altogether.

One

will ask,

It

where then

would be good

uniforms of the

soldiers, in

are

but

all

these people were killed by the Kashmiris

No

one was killed by a Ladaki-Buddhist.

over the graves of murdered travelers.

And

special delight in the consciousness that in the

peopled place you are safer and

A

End

cities.

A

inquires

if

less

True,

and Afghans.

then there

is

a

most distant un-

molested than in the

streets

London policeman at the entrance of the you are armed and prepared for danger.

night walk in the suburbs of Montparnasse or Montmartre in

Paris, or in

Hoboken, near

New

York,

is

far

than the paths of Himalaya and Karakorum. of

back and

The Kirghiz recruits Can such an army act at all? Where then are the dangers?

monuments

East

to

Turki about America.

several

Western

objects.

Because in the cemetery in Leh there are

the alluring attacks?

of

words

soldiers they were.

Very ragged

chest.

single Russian

red inscriptions on the entire

imperial times with

a matter

some small Russian

of America.

Thought should be given to this. For the first time we saw Chinese

As

Texas and Arizona

And,

more

And

full of

danger

the tornadoes

— are they not equal to a gale on the heights

?

besides, these dangers of nature are essentially so joyous,

so greatly

awaken

the vigor and purify the consciousness.

exist collectors of caustic

unsafe

exclamations of danger, but the most

bamboo

or rope bridge evokes in you a stubborn resource-

What

a pity, to descend out of the unpeopled spaces

fulness.

to the whirl of the

One

There

stop

human

crowd.

beyond Sanju are

said to be

[i5i]

Buddhist antiquities.

ALTAI-HIMALAYA October ioth

We

emerged into

heroism

is

Here Ladaki

a completely different country.

No

no more.

singing of the Ladakis.

more

are there the garlands of clear

strange that only

It is

among

Ladakis,

the castles on the waterless, courageous

No more are there peaks. No more the

suburgans and \urgans of fearlessness.

The mountains have

did

we

find strong

and agreeable

disappeared into a gray mist. to direct the eye

Here

?

who

sandy.

are peaceful, agricultural slow Turki,

They

in the

marches

Khan and Tamerlane. It is hot. In Sanju bazaar, it From behind the clay walls and fruit-trees are a multi-

tude of faces peeping out,

The

crowd.

and whither

to live,

have forgotten completely that they took part

of Jenghis is

How now

are peaceful, agricultural, ignorant Sarts,

Here

a forgotten oasis.

voices.

colorings

offer us fruit

of fear

full

—a

and hiding

whole

remind one of the Nijni-Novgorod

and roasted mutton.

Fair.

Finally they bring us

a gift of a Kirghiz dog.

and into the Maidan comes riding

Bells ring out official

—again

very kind

a

a Chinese

He

and obliging one.

from the

ished that he did not receive a letter about us

ban of Yarkand but he explains that the Republic has discarded special notifications port.

And we

possess

—which

means Roerich.

Loluchi

a

expectations.

When we

of the help of

all

versity of Peking.

of the Roosevelts,

there

is

a

Are

in

it

of

the Chinese officials

of

hope that China will

fulfill

is

the

first

place

our

received the passport they assured us

governors, of the deputation from the Uni-

The Chinese

who

the present day

must be Aksu.

China

name

official

speaks about the passage

turned toward Yarkand.

He

tells

the ruins of the imperial palace twelve days from Khotan, until

Am-

Chinese pass-

long passport under the

We

higher ranks so obliging?

if

aston-

is

still

Soon we

yields start

antiquities.

We

[152]

which

understand

out on an old Silk Road.

where can be found

us of

Here

antiquities, because these

— LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN Khotan

places as well as

are

mentioned

in the literature of three

or four centuries before our present era. deserts, in the oases,

the islands of the

were the strongholds of the

unknown

before the transmigration into erect

On

last

multitudes

Clouds stand

lands.

on the horizon, but these are not the usual clouds

are the plaits of whirling sands.

—these

Probably somewhere there

is

strong buran.

as a

nth

October

Accompanied by

the chirping of birds,

amid the bleating of

the herds, beside the joyous gurgling of the ari\s,

Soon we turned away from the

oasis

we

Sanju.

left

and ascended along the

sandy incline of a river bed and found ourselves in the real

The

desert.

hills

The though interweaving some new

reclined in weak, uncertain silhouettes.

air vibrated

on the horizon

formations.

The

full

as

design of the sand spread out

—

this

is

the

Unencompassable, over which passed the great hordes.

veritable

Jenghis and Tamerlane passed just here and, as of the seas there does not

upon

the waves

remain the trace of a boat, so on the

sands remains no vestige of those movements.

Here

rises

And

the desert.

there is

is

the

whole tenderness, the whole mercilessness of the Kirghiz point to the hazy pink northeast

the great Takla

Makan!

There are buried

cities.

There

—the capital of the former Tokhars. Their manuscripts known to us —but does one know how to pronounce these

Kucha

are

signs?

By

analogies one can read the letters, but the phonetic

indications of the sound has disappeared. inclines of the mountains,

long before

it

Karashahr

was covered, according

historians, the chalice of

Peshawar.

is

And

still

Farther on, upon the

—an ancient place.

There,

to the evidence of

Chinese

Buddha was brought

to

Karashahr from

farther, are the foothills of the heavenly

mountains where dwell the semi-dependent Kalmucks

member

their

history,

their

who

re-

mountains and the pastures and

[i53]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA And

sacred mounts.

Buddha

Blessed

The

The

shield of the sand quivers.

We

carried

away from

the desert

One can from

after a strong buran,

temples and walls of say

which the

eradicable signs are ebbed

Much

inquire about antiquities.

neath the sands.

would you

the great Altai,

lies

reached.

away.

The

further

still

—but

has already been

more remains hidden

still

be-

them only gropingly. And now

find

these depths

unknown

emerge new

By

habitations.

stupas,

the

where the most important things

few

new

signs,

are buried?

inhabitants themselves in speaking are indifferent to the

discoveries.

In the distance you see from afar the herds of wild kulans.

From

a distance, silhouetted, a rider approaches.

approach and

see a

white

and two pomegranates.

This

traveler,

met upon

This

guest.

is

far

he

and spreads out something white.

looks at us, stops, dismounts

We

From

felt

on which are

An unknown

the way.

from an unknown

a dastarkjian

is

two melons

laid

friendly

hand

to a

a veritable enchanted tablecloth, blanching amidst

A

the immeasurable sands.

greeting from the

unknown

—to the

unknown.

We is

reached Sanju, an inhabited dusty farming

a labyrinth of clay walls; already

tetter, a

thing which

we

People

came and took with them all inhabitants had accumulated. China begins

of the old true

—or

tell

We could

us that two Chinese

the Buddhist antiques, If this

be true

—

it

officials

which the

means

that im-

to understand the significance of the study

One must

monuments.

whether these

simply for their

children, one sees

did not see in the mountains.

not find any antiquities.

perial

upon the

There

site.

own

see

if this

did not take

officials

altogether

story

is

away

these things

benefit. •

•

•

we

proceed along the same Silk

•

•

October 12th

From

Sanju to Pialma

[

154

]

Road—

LEH— KARAKORUM— KHOTAN and “silky”

it is

but the road

not only because the silk caravans passed there,

new Old

and iridescent with

milky desert with the

tions of sand; a

The wind

waves.

silk

itself is

of sand

finest designs

whirls the pearly dust and beneath your eyes

mile-posts are standing erect

Behind us

— the

going on

a leave of absence to

number

On

are ringing.

Amban

them

of

a big

overtakes us.

He

—before him he has curious —but very uncouth.

Tun-huang

He

two months.

a journey of

greater

bells

little

gray horse the son of the neighboring

He

the combina-

meshes are created upon the surface of the ground.

lacy

half-destroyed.

is

all

is

some information concerning Khotan, speaks about the antiquities of Tun-huang. In Pialma there are also antiquities from Takla Makan. gives us

long passage.

It is a

past four

—but

longer.

We

proceed quickly from seven to half-

the people say that to-morrow’s road will be

make our

better than in Sanju

and dogs

We

ceaselessly

stop in a fruit orchard

—

where the camels, donkeys,

it

still

infinitely

is

horses, roosters

thundered their choruses through the entire

night. •

•

•

•

•

October 13th

From Pialma to Zawa is about thirty-eight miles. We left before dawn under the sign of Orion. For the first time during the journey, we saw the beloved constellation. Again the desert. Toward ten o’clock it is hot, reddened and searing. The stirrup burns the foot through the boot. What must it be like in summer ? It is not without cause that during the summer they travel by night marches.

At

the right, one sees the blue inclines of

remind us of Santa Fe.

Makan

—

I

The son

On

the

Amban

is

lun

—they

the pink sands of Takla

Arizona.

recall the desert of

of the

left,

Kuen

—sayings

singing Chinese namthars

about Chinese giants: Unexpectedly sharp, with nasal inhala[

155

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA with shouts and the beating of some

tions,

rhythms and

final cadenzas.

It is difficult

sort of inexplicable

to associate this

with

the epos of giants.

Under the necks of the horses the small straps of bells are ringing. Red tassels wave beneath the reins. So, did the great hordes thunder here.

Three doves flew with us

come from

in this desert

;

There in the midst of the desert

thousands of doves pro-

live

Every traveler throws them a

This benevolent spot

is

they

They were messengers they brought an old worshiped mazar and mosque.

?

us to a remarkable place,

tected by legend.

Where could

for a long time.

much

The

worshiped.

bit of corn.

sight of these

countless flocks of doves breathes forth to you a strange surprise.

an unexpected San Marco.

It is

way

sengers pointing out the is

These doves are wayside mes-

to the travelers of the desert.

“one Chinaman killed and

said

ate

It

such a dove and died

immediately.”

The day ends with

the golden grassy steppe with barhhans

which resemble \urgans.

is

the beginning of the

and reminds us of Southern Ukraine.

oasis is

This

sadness

—Amdong

What

could not withstand the desert heat.

Now

quick.

a Finnish dog; he

we

shall carry

him

Amdong

a pity!

was

Tumbal

there remains only black

so woolly

and

—a ferocious

one

In order not to lose this guardian

frightening the population. also

In the evening there

The Lhasan mountain dog

has perished.

reminded us so much of

Khotan

in a palanquin to-morrow. •

•

«

•

•

October 14th

From Zawa we go

to

Khotan.

oasis:

An

They

are harvesting the corn

unbroken

The

entire path

line of villages, small bazaars

horses are performing

all

and

barley.

along an

and gardens.

Again donkeys and

kinds of domestic work.

[156]

is

Again the

LEH — KARAKORUM — KHOTAN women

have covered

They have small

faces.

boyars’ hats

and

on the Byzantine miniatures. Gradually, unnoThere ticeably, we are entering the bazaars of Khotan itself. remains little of the ancient city. Khotan was known for its jade, From all this naught is left. The carpets its rugs and its song. white

are

veils as

modernized; imitations of jade are common; of the songs

there are only the simple

Moslem songs accompanied by

long two-stringed “guitar.”

There now remain the

connected with

maize and dried

still

silk,

cotton,

an unattractive narrow bazaar and dusty

fruits.

alleys

a very

industries

There

is

between the

clay structures.

Ancient Khotan was ten miles away from here, where the village of Yotkan. sites

are those covered

antiquity

We

flow of

ceased.

stop temporarily in the dusty garden square in the center

We

are trying to fight for a house in the suburbs.

not easy to obtain, because apparently

one’s interest not comprehensible to us.

Chinese

officials are

guard of

soldiers

for a long time.

ernor.

now

interesting

The

with mosques and mazars.

from Yotkan has almost

of the city. It is

As often happens, the most

is

and beks.

sentinels comprise a

But they inquire

Visits to the Taotai,

Everywhere we have

with some

In the beginning the

The honorary

decent.

conflicts

it

if

we

Amban and

tea in little saucers

Without delay come the return

will live here

Military

Gov-

with not elab-

The Military Governor has a green coach lined with purple. The Taotai has a two-horsed carriage and each horse has a separate wooden arch above it. The bridles are all Russian. Then comes a luncheon at the Taotai it lasts from two to six. More than forty courses. The victrola jangles out Chinese legends and songs. Of course the rhythms are very complicated

orate sweets.

visits.

—

and the variety of instruments can hardly be reproduced by the noisy records.

At the end

of the luncheon the old official of the [

157

3

ALTAI-HIMALAYA yamen becomes drunk and

wailingly grumbles something, prob-

ably funny.

A

merchant suggests: “Instead of hiring help, buy a

native

dozen

The

girls.

we do

girl

we

anything; however,

human

it

are is

we

accustomed not

it

be astonished at

to

permissible to be astonished at the sale

beings.

Kerim Bek who was stationed with blackguard. The stupidly smiling Amban

be a

But

are listening to

begins!

It

We

house you can paint but outside not.”

He

smiles again

ask

him

more

still

stupidly

and

We

pose of

work

artistic

point out that

same

says the

is

says:

“In the

thing.

We

But he abso-

precisely with the pur-

that the expedition has been sent

The Amban

included in our passport.

and repeats

it

us happens to

inquire the reasons.

to confirm this notification in writing.

lutely refuses.

it is

thirty rupees.”

is

not intend to buy girls although

seriously because

of

good

price of a

and

that

smiles thrice stupidly

his unaccountable prohibition.

The most vivid spot arrival of Tumbal in the

Khotan was the

of our entrance into

The Ladakis brought in his woolly majesty to the bazaar with loud songs. The black creature scowled and sat very important. The crowd rushed to the palanquin.

palanquin but immediately flew away from bazaar howling: considered

it

“A

their

bear!”

All the

officials

it

along the entire

coming

to see us

duty to inquire about the fearful beast and

the Military Governor, wanting to look at our Tibetan animal, for safety’s sake took

George by the hand.

Wonderful guards

are these Tibetan wolfhounds!

October 24th

We

return

home

in the evening

[158]

from the Taotai.

The raven

LEH— KARAKORUM— KHOTAN horses of “the honorary escort”

By moonlight,

our horses.

become

startled

silently stand the

fucian temple with their gongs.

and frighten

towers of the Con-

The gongs have been

silent all

the time.

The road brightly

lies

lies

northward.

Straight ahead,

the Great Bear.

.

.

.

[i59]

low over the horizon,

Part VII

KHOTAN (1925-1926)

Our

Ladakis had intended to go with us to the most

faithful

distant parts.

In

Khotan they soon became somewhat

They wandered through

depressed.

the bazaars; they complained that the

people pulled their braids; they grieved because of the Chinese

They assured us that the Chinese Taotai would order them beaten. They said that the Taotai himself had killed a man. At last the whole sack-garbed crowd of Ladakis came; they officials.

smiled, they shifted about, they crowded close to one another,

they repeated what good yum-\usho (mistress) and yab-\usho (great gentleman),

we were; and

finally

with

tears they

begged

They hinted that if we would go further on our way at once they would remain with us, but that in Khotan it was impossible to live. They left us very touchingly, hurrying through the snowy passes. Although it was only the beginning of November they were held back in Sanju where the crossing had become impassable. We then apprecius to

let

them go home.

ated the advice just after

we had

had, to start as early as possible, because

our passage, there started a continuous blizzard and

the severest frosts.

We

did not even consider their statement that

to live in friends,

was impossible

Khotan; but soon we were convinced that our simple

who had

valiantly

gone through

Karakorum, had become saddened

The

it

strangest

in

all

the skeletons of

Khotan, not without cause.

symptoms began. Not only did they not want

give us a suitable house, but they assured us that [

160]

to

we would have

KHOTAN to live at the bazaar

Taotai to watch us. a suitable

where

Kudai Berdi

to

Bai,

would be more convenient

When we

house in the

which we had

it

ourselves

was

outskirts, there

overcome

made an

for the

effort to find

mass of obstacles

a

Our

fearlessly ourselves.

well-wisher,

and the Afghanistan Aksakal helped us greatly

Amban permitted us to make an month. He signified through this that

to procure the house, but the

agreement only for one

we were undesirable tenants, yet neither would he permit us to leave. The permission to sketch was not given. A repulsive Bek was stationed to watch us. Finally there came a new Amban and the

The

affair

became

Taotai’s child

The

help.

more complicated.

still

became

They asked

ill.

cure was successful and

ingly to thank us.

But

their

all

E.

I.

to

three officials

come and

came seem-

conduct was outrageous.

They

laughed, gesticulated, spat and said that our passport was altogether unauthentic.

They proposed

to insult

Mr. Cheng-lo (the

Chinese Ambassador in Paris) for giving out such a passport. Everything, verily, assumed ugly proportions. flowers

—the

But these were

berries appeared the next day.

The Amban came and

said that a telegram

had been received

from Urumchi, from the governor of the province, with the

demand

to expel

our Expedition, and precisely through Sanju.

This meant a return through a path closed by snow in winter.

Of

we were

already accustomed to the hypocrisy of the

of Khotan,

and we did not doubt that there was no

course

officials

telegram and that the whole story was a fraud.

added the tempestuous Amban, Taotai

maybe he

will

New

you will personally ask Mr.

show some clemency.”

that the officials did not permit

and we had

“if

to search for

“However,”

One

should note

any of our telegrams

to pass,

an opportunity to send telegrams to

York, Peking and Paris, by roundabout ways through the

consulate in Kashgar.

Besides this, the

[161]

Amban

pointed out that

ALTAI-HIMALAYA the officials

had the complete right

away

to take

all

my

artist’s

equipment.

The

And

next day the Taotai changed his anger into clemency.

on account of the cure of

his son

by E.

he would not expel us by way of Sanju.

he notified us that

I.,

But

his clemency, be-

cause of the cure of his son, quickly evaporated and the

Our

arms, three

They

were sealed and taken away.

might the

The

arms were not even taken into consideration.

When

case

was brought into the room for the packing

arms, even the Chinese stepped back,

coffin.”

Kashgar we officials

enormous

of the

It

them back.

said that in

permits from the British

receive

to carry

December 29th the guns and three revolvers,

Finally on

threatened to search our house. search took place.

officials

E.

I.

added “This

would seem

is

the coffin of such type of officials.”

were already

that the inventions of oppression

exhausted, but ignorance prompted one notified us that our

With

passports.

this,

China demanded nothing

perial passports.

Quite accidentally

They

more “game.”

American papers did not

and demanded pre-war of Republican

murmuring “a

interest officials

the “wise” officials

less

than the old im-

we had with

us an old pass-

port and the Certificate of the Swedish Order of the Northern Star.

The

to send

it

“buffalos” copied this

somewhere.

The demand revolution

for a pre-war passport after nine years of Chinese

showed us

ill-qualified,

that the officials of

Kashgar and Urumchi

My

We

are not only

dear friends,

Amban Chang Fu,

resourcefulness.

plan to go immediately to

in order to find a if

you want

bloodedness and patience, go to the

Ma, and

Khotan

but that they are limitlessly ignorant; and to remain

here would be even dangerous.

istration.

and the other one, and pretended

city of

will teach

more

admin-

to try out your cold-

Here Taotai

Khotan.

you with

Before our departure,

sensible

their

all

we heard

a

medieval

rumor

bazaar that serious trouble was brewing for the Taotai. [

162]

in the It

is

;

KHOTAN and the

that he received the position of the Taotai

rumored

murder which he

for the

from the governor of the province,

himself executed of the military governor of Kashgar

however,

him

revealed that the

it is

star

year;

last

murder was accomplished not by

Now

alone but also by the soldiers.

one

may

believe that

murderers must become Taotais.

all

The was

details of the

crucified

and

mander

of

spurted

upon the

murder

two days

after

Khotan

are medieval.

The captured man

of crucifixion the present

com-

him at such close range that the blood At the same time his soldiers were also

shot at

victor.

shooting with him. I

am

writing with sorrow for the Chinese.

I

can imagine

the best Chinese will blush for such contemporaries! the tales of Sven Hedin,

recall

Russian soldiers;

his trunks for

Amban

waiver to the

how

robbery;

was forced

that he

new

chief for his nose

Amban

—that

searched

had no claims against them

to enter the court of the

Let the

know

officials

Let us

Filchner gave his signed

It is

Amban

how

for

Kosloff

with twenty Cos-

sad to realize and to see that

order of the state has not yet changed

evalism.

least

Chinese

badly Prjevalsky fared in Khotan;

sacks to quell the lawlessness.

the

how how

how

its

gloomy medi-

get along without the aid of a handker-

is

not important.

But

let

the

Amban

at

something.

During the search

of our things, the

Amban

recalled several

times that the Russians at the frontier of Manchuria bro\e his teapot

And

all

his petty rancor revealed itself in this

another very heinous crime did the Russians do; think only,

they vaccinated the wife of the Taotai from Aksu! is

information.

related with rancor.

indignantly said to the

—This felony

During the search of our

Amban, who ordered

things, E.

I.

that the yakhtan

own things be opened: “Look, Amban, there is And so the wife of the Taotai from Aksu was

containing her

my

corset.”

avenged!

Our Chinaman

is

[

indignant and shocked:

163]

While

— ALTAI-HIMALAYA and diplomat, with

he, a Chinese officer

stood

by,

a literary reputation,

and carried away our arms!

they usurped

deprived the Expedition of

means

its

He

of defense.

They

says:

“This

work of robbers.” Local Moslems come, advise and warn and try to show sympathy. One can imagine what these quiet, cowed people, who have lost their identities, have to bear. is

the

One can imagine how much and youths have

the Chinese intellectuals, students

to stand, they

who

are so sensitive to the

grime

of license. It is

necessary to find ways to depart.

of the frost.

The camels

are ready.

“Tell the escorting soldiers,

not in the rear

— Chinese

the Expedition

sewed

it;

old Chinese whispers:

they have guns, to go in front and

will be carried in

It

The Amban

The banner of front. Tzung

Officer.”

does not

Mongolian descent

know

anything about

—instructs

him

Once,

brated painter.

Kucha

lived a cele-

as a deposit against a loan,

he brought

his painting representing a

head of cabbage and a

asked 3,000 sar (equivalent to $2,700). the place of the owner, gave

He was

The Bek

art.

by means of the

politely

following ancient legend: “In olden times in

returned.

in spite

red with yellow and the inscription in black: “Lo, an

American Art

of

must go,

shoot from behind.”

ready.

is

if

The

We

him

A

boy,

butterfly

who was

the requested loan.

and

taking

The owner

indignant that for a cabbage and a butterfly,

much money. He chased away the boy and considered the money lost. Winter came and on the appointed day the artist brought the money and asked to have the painting one should give so

back.

saw

They took

out the painting and the owner, to his terror,

that the butterfly

demanded was upset. The artist

the boy.

But

his

had disappeared from the

complete picture

picture.

as described.

The

The owner

painter said, ‘So you have unjustly thrown out

now

only he can help you.’ [

164]

The owner

called

KHOTAN The boy

the boy.

and the

for three days kept the picture near the fire

not appreciated the

have

but he

artist,

butterflies

the

and made him

rich

Amban, but even crime

fire re-

So perfect

called the butterfly to life in winter as well.

And

The same

Only the warmth of the

also in the painting.

painter.’

appear in the

For the winter they disappear.

summer-time.

happens

the boy said: ‘You have

so perfect that his colors

is

The

the qualities of nature.

all

warm

Then

butterfly appeared again.

is

this

owner was ashamed and adopted the boy for his wisdom.” So does the Bek teach the

the

Buddha

said in the Sutras:

“The

greatest

ignorance.”

is

Among

the Moslems,

of Damascus.

news has spread about the destruction

The Moslems

are indignant.

Precisely

by harm-

ing the sanctuaries and by pillage will this breach be most easily In Paris they cannot even imagine

defined forever.

through the depths of Asia flow of

Moslem thought

why Muntazar,

asked us

same

letter

M.

Is this

also asked about

the statement of

through

his

deserves great attention.

Messiah, Maitreya,

quickly

However, the

bird-messengers.

fly

how

all

One Moslem start

with the

not the very same manifestation?

Buddhism.

They

Buddha being

They

listened very attentively to

also

a

man, but being great

supreme knowledge of Buddha reverencing woman;

Buddha having himself shown the manifestation of Maitreya. One day Kalmucks came from Karashahr. They came to make obeisance before Buddhist objects which we possess. Kalmucks know that here Buddha passed going northward. kind; of

interesting to notice that Sir Charles Bell in his last

book

about Tibet points out that Buddha might have been of

Mon-

It is

golian descent. of

is

populated by Mongoloids and the tribe

Sakya might have been sprung from them.

that

Then,

especially

Buddha northward. All signs, remains, must be examined anew. The gigantic image

interesting all

Nepal

is

the direction of

[165]

— ALTAI-HIMALAYA of Maitreya, described.

ought

on the rock near Maulbeck,

is

often mentioned and

does not occur to one that the whole huge rock

It

to be

from

investigated

already in

Khotan

inscription

on the reverse

all

But when

sides.

quite accidentally

we heard

side of the rock.

It

we were

about a Chinese

was an immeas-

urable pity to have lost this possibility; because a Chinese was

with

And

us.

then,

what could

this

unexpected language have

One can expect Sanskrit, Pali, Tibetan and even Mongolian! But why did a Chinese hand write upon the rock of Maitreya? Monuments should always be approached with an meant?

open mind.

The

antiques in

Khotan

During the

exhausted.

are really

two months, outside of two or three fragments, and a dozen iminothing was brought to

tations,

for

treasure

us.

And

has ceased.

And

the occupation of seeking

the tales breathe of old

Yotkan

munications already described by Sir Aurel Stein.

meaning the

site

Khotan

of old

—

is

really populated

and covered by Moslem cemeteries.

Sarts

quarians often refer to the

name

com-

by peaceful

Just as Italian anti-

now

of Bode, here also

they are

continually speaking about Sir John Marshall or about Sir Aurel Stein.

There have not remained any ancient

Life

congealed as happens before a wave of

is

Why,

in point of fact,

of Chinese Turkestan

?

Khotan considered

is

We do not see the

We live on a big road branching to to the Province

Kansu and

do the

camels sound.

bells of

the donkeys.

being created. it

is

now

By such

The rug

objects in daily use.

a

new

commercial center

nerve of this commerce.

Aksu, Kucha and Tun-huang,

into the depths of China.

call of

steps the rotations of industry are not

industry has deteriorated considerably, life.

Properly speaking the

Khotan designs have completely degenerated.

And

But seldom

Seldom does one hear the

conventional and without

disappeared.

constructions.

The

jade has

another characteristic pointed out by ancient [

166]

KHOTAN authors has disappeared: singing has ceased, and has been reIn contrast with such singing, that

placed by fierce screams. of the Ladakis

full of

is

has ceased to sing, It

rhythm and

means

it

which Fa-hsien

same Khotan to

the very

is

our era dedicated the

in the fourth century of

The

people

Buddhists and find joy in music.

There

exalted description: “This country thrives happily.

They

are rich.

belong to

from the

all

members of communes and they almost all Mahayana. They all live and derive their support commune. The villages are spread on big expanses

more than

are

are

10,000

and before the door of each house

They

(Suburghan).

all

are

guests with everything that

is

is

a small

raised

very hospitable and

The

necessary.

ruler of the coun-

Gomati, which belongs to Mahayana.

beating of gongs

all

sit

in

members

of the

commune

harmonious order and keep

with the dishes.

To what

.

.

.

Some

of us

silence,

went on

Appian

Way

or the

Road

to Ostia

and do not

The

does not relate contemporary Khotan with

At

the

gather for a meal.

to Kashgar.”

extent can reality be changed!

pagoda

provide the

try placed us in

All

a people

that they are greatly depressed.

strange to think that this

is

When

freshness.

.

.

clatter .

present evidence past, just as the

its

do not lead

to the present

Roman Rome. It is

in

a pity that Fa-hsien did not travel further than

what

and even

now

Russian Turkestan, because everywhere there

in Persia are traces of

And Bokhara

yet.

name this

is

is

nothing

of a Buddhist monastery.

philogical

else

at all discovered

than Vihara, the distorted

George

successfully discovered

Pamir, Afghanistan, Persia

traces of those flowerings art

Buddhism, not

transformation in Paris and Pelliot absolutely

agreed with him.

“The

Kashgar

of culture,

was incomparable, and

a

the best gifts.”

[167]

when

work

—everywhere

as

of art

are

chronicles say:

and

a

book were

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Tsung had

We

a dream.

“A

I.,

George and

Tsung comes running

sabers, slashed Yang-tu-t’u.

laughs:

three, E.

Now

very good dream.

all

Han Chen

Tzi

dream and

with pleasure

and

interprets

that, if

Tsung emphasizes

dream, Tu-t’u fared badly.

tell it

the victory will be yours,

and Tu-t’u will fare badly.” also smiles broadly

to

with

I,

this

only in a

the importance

of the dream: “If Tu-t’u treats the great guests badly things

him and he

will fare badly with

Khotan

is

So

in far-away

rendered a verdict against Tu-t’u in Urumchi: “More

than a year he will not

He

decision.

will not live.”

evidently the

We

live.”

“You have

laughs.

truth will assert

speak to the Sart about

already replaced Kerim-Bek,

itself

with Tu-t’u.”

Although

Tu-t’u makes fun of the Peking government he himself

Who

in a furnace of hatred.

Ma,

robber,

churians?

The In

or

Any

Aksu

The Khotan one from Kuldja with his Man-

will

or the

sit

in his place

?

enterprising troops can easily take Sinkiang.

will be set a place for the

the

image of Rigden-japo

first

light of the

New

of Mongolia begin.

way bringing new messages. Temple of Shambhala. When

Era

will reach Urga, then will flash the

— truth.

Then

will the true renaissance

In Kucha, in the bazaars, recently

two

ing lamas distributed images and a prayer of Shambhala. the nuclei of revivified

celebrated

Buddha.

Buddhism have found

New

of the

Burkhan Bulat

is

Era.

Khotan

near Khotan.

The Maitreya Approaches.”

2.

New

Series

4.

The

of one of

the path of

Ghum

of the lies

the

Era.”

comprises seven parts:

“The Steed

holds of the Walls,”

Here,

The magnets

are planted “as truly as under the stone of

prophecy about the

is

arriv-

shelter.

Suburghan near Khotan must be the place

the manifestations

ways

sitting

is

pilgrims are passing on their

Urga

also,

this

of Happiness.”

“The Banner [168]

i.

3.

“Shambhala

“The Strong-

of the Future.”

5.

“The

MAITREYA

Scries)

OF

IGNS

(Maitreya

KHOTAN Power

of the

Caves.”

“The Whispers

6.

of the Desert.”

7.

“Maitreya the Conqueror.”

December

1st

One cannot imagine

more

a

striking contrast than the tones

Himalayas and Ladak

of the

Sometimes

it

Where

is

is

gone or the eyes are

is

are the crystals of purple, blue

The

and dusty storeroom!

rosions of time cut the skin like glass

eye

desert. filled

and green ?

the abundance of fiery yellow and vivid red colorings a gray

It is like

comparison with the

seems that one’s eyesight

And where

with dust.

in

and

?

all-penetrating cor-

eat the tissues.

so accustomed to tonelessness, that, not glimpsing

any

The col-

Also, unnoticeably, a sand storm starts

ors, it slides as into a void.

up and our black Tumbal becomes woolly gray. Sometimes the Occasionally we are reminded of the charm stars are beautiful.

Kuen lun. The home-made mowing

of the mountains by the faint blue range of

donkeys are bemoaning machines

also groan.

Some

repulsive. is

their lot.

The

the

gigantic goiters of the people are

say they are

already such a race.”

And

The

“from the water.”

size of the goiters seriously affects

the nerves and psychology of the consciousness.

The water

in the creeks

The lama wanted

to

says

that

is

Others, “this

covered with

The

frost begins.

ice.

one very learned Buddhist in Ladak

arrange a discussion with George on the subject of

Buddhism.

At

that time the

ing the discussion.

He

lama was timorous about arrang-

says: “I

was uncertain whether your son

could speak about the foundations of the teaching.

Nowadays

many foreigners who call themselves Buddhists, but they do not know anything and judge according to untruthful books and commentaries. Nowadays there are many such pseudoBut now I am sorry that I did not arrange this Buddhists. there are so

debate in

Ladak because your son knows [

169]

everything.

He knows

ALTAI-HIMALAYA more than many learned lamas. and gradually

tions unnoticeably

me

to

Here

everything.

you; and you have explained

to

Ladak we did not have an

a pity that in

It is

have put various ques-

I

Once I was traveling here with the great scientist, P. I asked him various questions but he did not answer them. He only became angry, because he did not know how opportunity to speak.

to answer.”

The lama would

much

like very

to see the Khazars, a

Mon-

golian tribe which remained after the invasion in Afghanistan.

January

7926

ist,

The lamas starts to

Buddha: “An

often repeat the words of

oil

lamp

smoke before extinguishing.”

Instead of being able quietly to depart from the rule of the

Taotai there arise

new

insults

leaving dangerous Khotan.

ing,

comes

tells

us:

a messenger

“Mr. Taotai

To go through

ist,

from the Taotai, and

We

the desert

Our

difficulties.

are ready.

But January

specifies that

not through Kashgar.”

senseless

The camels

things are already packed. at

and

We

feel joy

early in the in

morn-

embarrassment

you go through Tun-huang

“Our arms were taken away. without arms is impossible. Not only say:

every expedition, but every merchant going through the desert

has arms with him.

Kashgar.

Moreover,

Urumchi.

And

Besides,

our

money

has been sent for us to

co-workers,

Americans, go

the

to

fourth, the Taotai himself has just approved our

going to Kashgar.”

The messenger

me

to tell

“But

it

you is

to

smiles, “All this

difficult to

cates for “It

true.

go

to

are robbers!”

But Mr. Taotai changed

you the path through the desert

means

that

we cannot

see either [

Tun-huang.”

But the Taotai himself said

there!

Kansu

But Mr. Taotai sent

true.

go through the sands

that in the Province of

“Quite

is

17°

]

his decision

to

and

indi-

Tun-huang.”

Yarkand, nor Kashgar,

KHOTAN Aksu

neither

All these orders of the Chinese

or Kucha.

officials

bring insult to the United States!”

To-day

“Speak yourself with Mr. Taotai. if

you

will

New

is

Year and

beg Mr. Taotai very well maybe he will again change

his orders.”

we

“But

want

don’t

We

to beg.

The messenger only

desire justice.”

we go

smiles and suggests again that

to-day to the Taotai.

Here

also the people

whisper to us a colorful

procession

went

case

huge

and was carried on poles by four people.

This

into the court of the Taotai during his festival

The Chinese

lunch.

was made of

The

a very

for our arms, without special reason, size, like a coffin,

detail:

And

again whispered, “a coffin.”

the Taotai

himself became pale and ordered them quickly to carry the case out of his court into the is

yamen

of the

Amban. He knows

committing an offense for which he will have

We go to the On

rocks, fish

our

and

to answer.

As is prescribed for the action of a tragic drama must be combined with the side-

Taotai.

Grand Guignol, show:

that he

the

way we meet all sorts

tion to congratulate us

paper dragons,

a procession carrying

of tinsel.

on the

They

New

are

coming

in our direc-

Year.

The conference with the Taotai exceeded all limits of patience. We told him about the necessity of changing American checks in Kashgar. We told him about the necessity of having our teeth attended to. We told him about the hurried necessity of communicating with

New

We

York.

We

offended the dignity of America. reasons.

said that

by

his

told about

all

conduct he causes

and

But the Taotai answered that we could go either

through the Sanju Pass back to India (which lous because the Pass

is

go through the desert with robbers, against

would be detained

covered with

ice until

is

obviously ridicu-

June) or

we

could

Kansu (without arms, though infested whom he himself had warned us) or we

in

to

;

Khotan. [

171

pointed out that our forced

I ]

ALT AI-HI MALAYA detention was an arrest for which

we gave no

The Taotai

cause.

repeated the same words, insisting that our passport, which was

given by order of the Peking government, was not valid. possible that

Mr. Chang Lo, the representative of China,

League of Nations, does not know how the Taotai

out that in view of such offensive conduct,

The

at the

to give a passport?

had never heard of the League of Nations.

China completely.

Is it

I

But

pointed

desired to leave

I

The

Taotai repeated the same thing.

people behind the Taotai’s back laughed and pointed to his head.

We

disputed unceasingly.

It

was impossible

to follow

The

complicated fissure of ignorance and madness.

We

trying to annihilate our sympathy for China.

up

this

Taotai was

remembered

one of our acquaintances, a progressive Chinese, in America.

my

Listening to

asked sadly: I

defense of China, he

“And you

am

answered, “I

yourself, have

somehow withered and

you already been

intending to go there.”

He

in

added:

China?”

“We

shall

speak after your return.”

And

so

we

returned to our house arrested.

New

We

sat

upon our

Year’s

Day by composing

a written address to the Consuls of Kashgar:

“The Roerich Ex-

packed trunks and we ended the

pedition on the eve of leaving for Kashgar has been arrested by the Chinese officials of

Khotan without cause occasioned on the

part of the Expedition.

“In view of the absence of a United States Consul,

we

are

addressing ourselves herewith to the representatives of foreign

governments that they

in the city of

show

Kashgar with the urgent demand

the most serious consideration in obtaining per-

mission at once for the Expedition to proceed to Kashgar.

In

the event that permission of the Kashgar Taotai be insufficient

we beg

that they telegraph at our expense to the

eral of the Province of

Governor-Gen-

Urumchi.

“Three causes compel us precipitately are: First, the necessity to

to

hurry on.

communicate with our [

172]

These

representatives

KHOTAN from America; second, the Swedish Mission;

necessity necessity

the

third,

to

the doctor of the

see

money

of receiving

in

Kashgar.”

And

we

so

nine days,

if

Our

shall wait.

they reach at

We

all.

have received back

our very important telegrams undispatched.

come

really

can reach only in

letters at best

dangerous, because the

Everything has be-

Of what

We

Our arms

do they wish

to deprive us

are

?

have received a note about the seizure of our arms.

am

begins thus: “I

me

else

way

every

are in

officials

hindering our communications with America. seized.

five of

It

giving this paper for the reason that before

appeared a foreign man, Hulitzu, the other name, Loluchi,

etc. It

appears that Hulitzu means Roerich and Loluchi

Who

Roerich. It is

this

can

make anything

out of this diabolic nonsense!

America

again completely ignored in

significant that

manuscript.

It

is

seems that altogether the Taotai, even more

than Columbus, doubts the existence of some kind of

to-him America, which E.

She

I. is

men.”

is

“What

George

shall

is

called

She

very depressed.

says:

also

is

unknown-

Mei-Kuo.

set

out with such an open heart.

one do with humanity; these are not

very downcast: “But that China, which

is

shown to us in museums and lectures, has nothing in common with what is occurring!” Our Chinese has drooped altogether, and begs us not

to speak of

anything because they will

“because these are thieves, murderers and dogs!” whispers,

“The Chinese never

act differently.”

kill us,

The lama

All this becomes

dangerous. Sir

Aurel Stein gives in

his

book, as an authentic

fact, that

the

Taotai in Kashgar for a few years of his administration transferred to

Hankow

communication

in his

name

impossible,

authoritative scientist.

But

2,000,000 taels.

although is

it

[

*73

Sir

possible? ]

We

Aurel Is

it

thought Stein

this

an

is

possible?

.

.

.

And And

you, builders of

you many?

are

new

how

China,

hard

it

must be

for you!

But of course the history of the world has

always been created by the minority.

I

hope that the Roosevelts had

And

the sack of Khotan.

from

saves one

daily

in our

And

And

way.

communications with the Taotai and

there

after all, this

is

They happily avoided

easier.

withal, hunting in the mountains

harmed

In the mountains no one

ban.

it

was no one

to

us,

Am-

nor placed obstacles

change

his decisions daily.

And

not a difference of psychologies.

our

Chinese and the Moslems equally understand the whole dangerous absurdity of the situation.

man who would

a faithful

Just

now some

one offered to find

place our letter to the Consuls into

the postbag, because to-day near the post office

some

suspicious

watchers were noticed. •

•

•

•

•

]anuary 2nd

A cial

be

merchant came inquiring about the

Khotan meets

One may

in such hostility those

not enter and

may

commer-

But what connections can there

connections with America.

if

possibilities of

not leave.

coming from America ? Such commercial con-

nections! •

•

The more cally

is

•

•

•

more sympathetiThey offer to send

hostile the officials are to us, the

the population inclined toward us.

over our addresses to the Consuls in a

more

certain way.

Our

people are sincerely indignant, especially at the seizure of the

arms.

They

say:

“They

will never return the arms.”

Chinese advise us to go on Russian roads.

want

belief that the officials, as usual,

Our the

case

is

being discussed from

is

[

all sides at

intensified.

174

]

express the

to extort a large bribe.

Bek accompanied George even during

that the surveillance over us

They

Three

To-day

the bazaar. his ride.

It

means

KHOTAN am

I

writing

Verily,

it

these details because

all

We

have a passport from the Peking

a special letter of

recommendation from the Chinese

instructive!

is

government;

Ambassador

London;

in

Washington;

With

us

is

wonderful

in Paris; a

Consul in Calcutta; a

seum

will be useful for others.

it

from

from the United

from the Archaeological Society United

six institutions in the

my

With

paintings.

And

French and other passports.

even with

us

this

in

States.

With

a Chinese, a former officer and diplomat.

books published about

States

from the Victoria and Albert Mu-

letter

a letter

letters

letter

us are

English,

are

complete sym-

posium, one risks falling prey to the tyranny of dangerous desAll this

pots.

Just

now

is

very instructive.

they have brought a

from the bazaar.

tion

house were found cover that

my

pictures

On

verifying

this,

it

who

guns.

To-morrow they will disaeroplanes. They speak

travels

from Tibet on ioo

comes out that •

•

January

during the search of our

wings of

are

about a Great Foreigner

“authentic” communica-

see,

Don’t you

many machine

new

•

•

this is also

horses!

about us.

•

yd

They speak in the bazaar about the fight of the ten Chinese generals. They speak about the death of Chang-Tso-Lin. They speak about foreigners

On

verification,

our

letter to the

it

who

brought four hundred cases of arms.

appears that this

Consuls

The men

left.

the desert without arms.

rumor

It is

is

also about us.

are afraid to

To-day

go through

what

impossible to foresee into

the present events will resolve themselves.

January 4th

A

Sunday bazaar communication: At the bazaar the Kalmucks

were betting about our cessful, as

never before.

The Taotai himself with

success.

And

And

the forecasting

they ran to communicate

his foolish raids [

175

]

is

was it

suc-

to us.

helping in the spread-

ALTAI-HIMALAYA We

ing of absurd rumors.

some way

shall in

or other leave,

but he will strangle himself in his garden of madness.

have

I

decided to communicate with America and to give up the plan of going through China.

undertook to paint but troversies

I

One can

common

many

reasons against

tongue with the most primitive

•

•

knows it

a

hinders the

gun under

we

course

remedy: “This

a sure

•

woman from

is

he says with

foolish.

has to shoot with

away and the woman The Chinaman has another con-

important

a very

air:

“The Tibetans

are

This

In the heaven there are a dragon and a bird.

One

He

where only

dislikes very

is

The Chinese

knows

that there

women live and they give much " revived corpses”

birth only

rain.”

also

are formulating for the Governor-General our accusation

We

against the Taotai as follows:

Khotan

of the following:

i.

Of

tural goal of our expedition.

into consideration

the

United States in India. the pursuit of artistic all

art

2.

work

toward

America and toward the

Of

cul-

his insulting refusal to take

from the Consul-General of the

letter 3.

accuse Ma-ta-jen Taotai of

a deeply insulting attitude

the dignity of the United States of

ing

One

giving birth.

only one dragon.

exists a district

We

dif-

But the Chinese

are helpless.

that in heaven there

dragon cannot make

to girls.

going through a

the bed and the devil will run

They think

fools.

woman

the devil sitting under the bed and

is

will give birth immediately!” jecture;

wives, are

•

•

to ask us to help a

Of

many

tribes,

and do not enter into any evolution.

absolutely not acceptable

ficult childbirth.

I

cross the highest mountains,

but savages in dress clothes with decorations and

They come

it.

did not agree to pursue foolish con-

with madmen.

one can find a

have too

I

Of in

his insulting prohibition

Khotan under

threat of confiscat-

materials belonging to the expedition.

insulting refusal to take into consideration [

U6]

put upon

all letters

4.

Of

the

and authori-

KHOTAN from the American

zations

expedition.

5.

dignity.

Of

6.

Of

institutions

which have organized the

the insulting behavior toward our personal to recognize

the insulting refusal

as

valid our

Chinese passport given to us by order of the Peking government,

through Mr. Cheng Lo, the Chinese Ambassador in

Paris.

the refusal to take into consideration the letter given

Cheng Lo

to all

governors of Turkestan.

the expedition in expedition.

one hunter’s tion of all

Khotan which ruined

Of

Of

by Mr.

forcibly detaining

the scheduled plans of the

The insulting seizure of all our arms (two guns, gun and three revolvers), which deprived the expedi9.

means

of defense, although every traveler crossing

the desert carries arms. to

8.

7.

10.

Of

and inhuman threat

the insulting

send the expedition beyond the boundaries of China through

n. Of

the Pass of Sanju closed with snow.

the insulting refusal

to take into consideration the presence in the expedition of a

middle-aged lady.

12.

Of

and inhuman intent

insulting

to send

Tun-huang withmembers suffering from

the expedition to the desert in the direction of

money and with the 13. Of the insulting and humiliating change of his each day. 14. Of the insulting and inhuman refusal

out arms, without their teeth.

own to

orders

permit a personal consultation with the doctor of the Swedish

Mission in Kashgar.

15.

Of

the insulting refusal to permit us to

money affairs personally in Kashgar. 16. Of his insulting demand that we show the invalid pre-war passport, nine years after the revolution. 17. Of his insulting refusal to permit arrange our

us to If

communicate with American

institutions

would

Ma-ta-jen, the Taotai of Khotan,

indications

from the Governor-General

strive to direct the

expedition just there.

to permit us to proceed to

intentions. a full

Urumchi

The above-mentioned

and immediate

via

•

•

[

177

like to follow the

Urumchi he would His repeated refusals

Kashgar show

his criminal

accusations force us to

satisfaction. •

at

from Kashgar.

•

]

•

demand

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Also one must notice that in to the officials that

all

we

negotiations,

such actions as theirs would

pointed out

reflect

on the

Chinese students and Chinese quarters so numerous and widespread in America.

But

it

was

clear that the fate of their

com-

patriots did not interest the criminal officials in the slightest.

Our lama informs on

us that a lama

a pilgrimage to Tibet

The lama gave a horse

him was going

to

and was arrested by Chinese

officials.

a bribe to the local colonel of a thousand lan,

and two

pieces of cloth.

And

The lama walked

him through.

known

in the night the latter let

by crossing

for nine days

at

night and during the day hid himself in the sands.

January $th Vedantists call Buddhists “Nastika.”

However, Vedanta

knows only I

The formula

Buddha;

“I take refuge in

is:

knowledge

— Buddha

of initiation of a Buddhist

this

man, the

the

The Teaching;

take refuge in

Does not

take refuge in the Order.”

less

I

means godless people.

concede a personal god but

also does not

the principle.

It

formula lead to end-

greater teacher of light,

summoning to go fearlessly along the path of general well-being. The entire contemporary evolution was foretold by Buddha this lion of fearlessness and attain-

reverencing knowledge and

—

ment.

An

occidental newspaper

from India reached

Of

discovered muscles in plants.

not muscles.

Bose

course,

demonstrating

is

if

just

us.

Bose has

there are nerves, that page

why

which

is

needed for the coming evolution.

January 6th

Another “wonderful”

woman

servant

came

detail

about Khotan.

to be hired [

—a

178]

strange

A

month ago a Moslem woman;

she at once threw back her veil and started vulgarly to smile,

The cheeks were

offering her services.

thick as a finger cially sent,

— in

one straight

We refused.

unclean.

One

line.

She

left.

felt

something

spe-

To-day an old Chinese

Amban

complained about rumors which the

The eyebrows

rouged.

made

spread that he

washwoman. The old man is again indignant. At once we remembered the rouged one. Travelers, be careful! The old man protests: “The Amban himself has a wine shop in Yarkand. If only we could get soldiers from the dishonorable offers to the

Consul!”

If

even a Chinese dreams of the Consul’s soldiers one

can imagine his mood.

The

characteristics of the fifth

ing of fearlessness; Akochir or the sound

A; Tara; Visvapani

Buddha: The North; the

Ak

bless-

Dorje (the crossed Dorje);

(the many-armed,

all

bestowing)

Maitreya.

In his article in the Shanghai ness of Tibet,” Dr.

seen one of

body of a in the sits

its

Lao Tsin

says, “in

most remarkable

who, they

scientist

costume of

a

in an armchair

Times of

one of the sanctuaries

characteristics

—the

Tibetan lama,

as

he was during his

like a

man

I

have

mummified

died 350 years ago.

say,

and appears

1925, “In the wilder-

Garbed life,

he

rather fallen asleep

him on the table lies an unfinished manuscript over which he was at work before his death. The body has turned yellow and dry with time, but as

than dead hundreds of years since.

a

whole

it

Before

Many

has kept incredibly well.

legends were

around these remains of the ancient Tibetan

scientist.

woven I

was

assured that three times during the period since his death, the

body had changed altogether

its

original position.

and came back only

the keepers of the temple,

after

coming

And

once

it

two or three

into the

disappeared days.

chamber where the

remains were kept, discovered that the manuscript before [

179

]

Once

him

ALTAI-HIMALAYA was completed with

a

message of the greatest importance for the

whole world.”

Okakura but could

much

tea’

not also suspect you Westerners of the ‘lack of

tea’

notes:

we

“You can laugh

your constitution?

in

having

at us

You have gained an expansion

We

possessions at the price of all calmness.

harmony without it?

The

force against any attack.

East in certain respects

sky of contemporary humanity for wealth

darkness of conscience.

‘too

is is

of your

have created the

Would you

believe

The

greater than the West!

broken in the cyclopic fight

The world moves gropingly in the egoism and vulgarity. One buys science with a bad One manifests good will, out of love for utility.

and despotism.

East and West, like two dragons tossed by the turbulent sea, are fighting in vain to conquer the precious stone of

‘Ny-uka’ in order to heal the great disaster.

We

life.

We

need

await the great

Avatar.” •

Aurobindo Ghose

says,

come when you must

•

•

“We

•

•

say to humanity, ‘The time has

take the great step and rise out of a

material existence into the higher, deeper and wider

life

toward

The problems which have troubled mankind can only be solved by conquering the kingdom within; which humanity moves.

not by harnessing the forces of Nature to the service of comfort

and luxury, but by mastering the

forces of the intellect

man

the spirit; by vindicating the freedom of

and

within as well

as

without and by conquering, from within, external Nature.”

Alexandra David-Neel says

(“La Vie de Peuple,” 1925,

in her article,

Paris.)

travagant dreams but in those

“We

immense

“The Coming Hero”: can smile at these ex-

regions

where they

are

accepted with unshaken belief and with the greatest reverence, their influence can

become powerful and foreshadow completely [

180]

KHOTAN unexpected events which the most

skillful of politicians

is

unable

to foresee.”

Read the

David-Neel about the old lama

story of

Read the

flowers

upon the

coming

of the time of Shambhala.

lama

glaciers.

tale of the

From

who

brought

lama about the

a local story-teller the

transformed into a participant in international events.

is

David-Neel has brought from Tibet several

new

variants of the

manuscript about Shambhala.

For a

whole net of prophecies and very

scientist the

indications

drawn

across the entire

Asia, represents a remarkable interest.

significant

immeasurable distances of

A

poet

would

say that the

sand and stones were speaking because often the ways of speeding information are absolutely undecipherable.

this

And you

need but relate a piece of information when, immediately, one

you

gives

in reply a

more

still

And

significant piece of news.

at this, the half-shut eyes are faintly glistening.

And

so

we

Once we

live.

the heights, and once

receive a piece of information

from the

To-day

abyss.

from

a soldier stopped

our Chinese at the bazaar, caught hold of his horse by the bridle,

and demanded money from him.

Yesterday one of our

woman on the road and tried to demand And in such a country they have left us without

“guards” stopped a

money from

her.

arms!

strange that Prjevalsky also had unpleasant expci i-

It is

ences just in Khotan.

Khotan.

So we

sit

Marco Polo condemns

the customs

on our trunks amidst untold infamy.

brought us information from the bazaar that the Taotai

of

They

is

intro-

Buddha

spent

ducing the opium trade in Khotan. •

•

•

•

•

January 8th

A their

number

of

members

of the brotherhood of

time in quarrels and the Blessed [

181

]

One

left

them.

The

neigh-

ALTAI-HIMALAYA boring donors were repelled by the quarreling ones and the

were humbled and came

to

Buddha asking him

said:

But

“Such reconciliation will not be fundamental.

On

the contrary, fearlessly uncover

Only then

of your animosity.

Going

to Asia

made

us carry flour

was no is

there

much

and

will reconciliation be real.”

Everything

and

rice

with

They warned

us.

us take forage.

is

there in

needed.

It

They

us that there

However, everything

for the ten days of desert through

provision

is

Kashmiri agencies know nothing.

They made

sugar.

the roots of the quarrels and

all

do not take much food.

quantity.

sufficient

to forget every-

among them.

thing not referring to the causes of quarrels

Buddha

latter

Karakorum, not

only makes the caravan senselessly

long! •

•

•

•

•

January ioth

How becomes exist.

is

our consciousness enriched by sitting in Khotan?

clear that a life

Imagine the

lies,

such as that in Khotan should not people plunged into complete

lives of 100,000

Out of darkness are being born treachery and ignorance. The people have

darkness, divested of disease, vice,

It

all light.

retained only their small trade, achieved by cheating and treachery.

The understanding

of quality in the products has died out.

The understanding about

celerity in

understanding of the victory of labor in the slush of bazaars it

has perished.

demolished.

The

Submersion

and a mutual strangulation goes on. Thus

cannot continue!

The lama who warned is

is

work

us that “Chinese cannot act differently”

predicting another occurrence.

He

says:

When

they see that

things cannot continue in such insolence and cruelty, they will assure you that nothing at so to us

all

and they were always [

happened, that friends.

182]

Note

it

only appeared

that they transmit

KHOTAN everything by

word

mouth and

of

that the frightened Beks will

The

deny everything that they have seen and heard. proof

the receipt regarding the seizure of the arms.”

is

You, builders of

The

falos.”

New

place for

Our Khotan and he

sits

them

is

the zoo.

It

so

when

it

I is

tell

silver coins

come

him

to

which have become

appears that he keeps his riches in the

ground and our earth

And

with the humor

miserly friend: “I

visit to a

and washes heaps of

absolutely black.

black.

China, remove more quickly the “buf-

friend, Kudai-Berdi-Bai, relates

of the East, about his

black

only

such that the silver gets absolutely

is

him, ‘Dost thou

hidden from people.

get black in the other world, ”

if

see,

even the

And

silver gets

thy face will also

thou wilt uselessly hide thy

riches.’

This

is

Two cently

from the

a tale

practical East.

days away from Khotan, along the Karakash, were re-

found great auriferous sands.

who worked on and turned

to

mentioned.

the stream of the river Keriya

Karakash.

Of

A

The

left their

few more gold-bearing

course, all this

In natural resources Sinkiang

January

Thousands of gold seekers

is

is

were

exploited by very crude means.

a rich province.

nth

sensation of Khotan!

dinner arranged by some

Bazaar rumors came, about the

official

in

Kashgar.

It

cussed at the bazaars in the most fantastic way. officials,

rivers

work

merchants and also

many

is

being

The

dis-

Taotai,

of the poorest inhabitants

were

The places were so arranged that the Taotai and the officials were among the most ragged beggars. The same thing happened with the richest man of the city. The host said: “Now we are not in office. Here we are all men, are all equals. invited to the dinner.

[183]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA we

To-morrow you

not so?

Is it

According

are equal people.”

impression was very great.

One

will be the head, Taotai,

So

is

to the echoes in

and to-day

Khotan

the

being related in the bazaar.

cannot discern where the people’s creation begins.

January 12th

came from America. Through Kuldja from November 5th and through Tashkent from December 1st; almost the same amount of time as to Ladak from New York. Beloved friends, Letters

we

read with joy about

all

works, exhibitions,

lectures, the school,

among broad masses; because needed. You are bringing true joy

the propaganda of art is

so imperatively

this

into the

of youth and are kindling the heart-fires.

life

We

heard about some gigantic statues in Central Asia.

know which; maybe

difficult to

Bamian, the half-destroyed

in

all

The height

of one of these

The same

these are the celebrated statues

city

between Kabul and Balkh.

Some

170 feet.

consider

them

Others see in them the most ancient

entirely of Buddhist origin.

antiquity.

is

It is

unclearness as about the stone giants on

the Easter Island.

Our Chinese want

is

go back

to

deeply offended by the to

tremendous vivid notice

“The American

who

court

Roerich

In

?

it

good

art officer,

“Lo”

!

as

—black and red.

—in

there

due

the gates

some

In translation

does not

it

sort of

means:

It

appears that “Lo” means

Chinese, also means “alarm.”

was

to the

He

Lo, forbids any one to enter into the

has no business there.”

Khotan

preted the

!

He hung on

China.

officials.

a fire

during the night.

unworthy conduct

guests.

[184]

The

Sarts inter-

of the officials against

KHOTAN January

A

iph

telegram came: “Washington undertakes necessary meas-

ures.”

But the arms were

cannot attempt to sketch in

I

unknown

deal of experience

and reasons

dogs have taught

me

papers and to deprive us of

all

without arms

countries.

have a great

I

Not only people but wild

for this.

custom.

this

And

taken away.

all

Isn’t

means

it

insolent to ignore

all

There have

of defense?

many cases of oppression of expeditions but such an act not known in literature. I am placing the responsibility upon

been is

the government of the Chinese Republic.

January 15th

From America came

a telegram so distorted that

meaning.

The unseen

news about

a big quarrel

possible to understand the

the bazaar brought the

Taotai and

And is

a

even days of seeming inactivity are

near Kuldja!

little

And

There

casket!

there

is

where

to

is

of his predecessor.

from

between the

There

And

teen years that

we

are

everyday

common

Here

information that

common

life,

end.

know

the discussion

order of things.

when

There

each circumstance It is

now

for seven-

watching the manifestations of the hasten-

Between the tomb of

ing of evolution.

is

the people do not

are periods, called the “balls of events,”

toward one and the same

full of signs.

China simply doesn’t recognize

From

keep their money.

ascends to the problems of the

rolls

friends

news about the monastery

Maitreya!

often the ruler of a district of

money

was im-

Amban.

remarkable

the

it

that

which

passes

away

and between the cradle of the future, electrons of untold energy are gathering

new

mountain abodes Maitreya.

is

formations.

And

the painter-hermit of the

tracing with surety the battle and victory of

Confidently he

is

of those approaching ones,

tracing the lines

and the

[185]

and the

distinctions

signs of those passing

away!

ALTAI-HIMALAYA And

and indisputably he

quietly

“Homage

the

dedication:

to the ruler of the law, to the exalted ruler of the

In Burkan Bulat will be the

northern country of Shambhala.”

Temple

signing

is

of Shambhala.

]anuary iyth

The

are intensifying their criminality.

officials

open packages addressed

started to

Amban, way to the

that

the

heart of America.

we have us

all

means of

The Amban to

is

open

Now

and

all letters

to

shooting.

I

belong

to seize

soldiers,

defend

American I

gical

another.

Of

officer of the

run away

that the

him

The Amban

in confirmation of

Two

case.

Amban

also tell

came galloping

the secretary

all

answer him that

we

at the sight

pack of dogs, by

a

arms taken by him

America

institutions but again

by shooting each other.

when,

I

from an attack of

itself

completely ignored.

the city

But that instead of

our arms.

because they

point out to the

to the

that

However, three years ago an American expedi-

of our one dog.

had

Khotan knows

all

an order from Urumchi

is

arms, they will give us military escort.

tion

which opens

self-defense.”

notifies us that there

cannot trust their

him, “Do not

Yet you and the Taotai have deprived

received money.

of

shall say to

just the Statue of Liberty

forget,

it

To-day he opened a

to us.

We

package from the Shanghai bank.

The Amban

my

is

being

that his soldiers will

end

did not have time to reach

remarks about the guard,

to us, asking help in a serious sur-

of the Taotai’s closest bodyguards shot one

course

we

are not surgeons.

It

appears that the

Taotai was stealing some things and the other guard and, as a result, the two were seriously wounded.

discovered

it

And from

these thieves

vide our guard.

ing a stranger’s

Our

and

old

letter in

assassins, the

man

Ts’ai

Taotai wishes to pro-

Han Chen

says,

“For open-

China formerly, one was punished by

having an eye taken out and a hand cut [

186

]

off.

But here there are

KHOTAN no

officers

but robbers.”

will find the central

It

will be enlightening to see

power of

how we

Urumchi.

the province Sinkiang, in

January iSth

The

first

speckled

snow

little

fell.

E.

I.

is

Masses of

feeding the birds.

Hindus often feed the

birds surrounded her.

birds

during the winter months.

January igth

We

received a letter

from the English Consul

Apparently they are making

in

efforts to enable us to leave

Kashgar.

Khotan.

January 20th

There

is

a letter

He

from the English Consul.

notifies us that

following his efforts and those of the Kashgar Taotai, the Governor-General invites us immediately to proceed

We

will see

how and when

to

Kashgar.

the local “Governors” are going to

notify us.

Toward evening

Amban

the

Khudai-Berdi-Bai that a

letter

notifies

us

briefly

through

has been received from the Gov-

Even

ernor-General with permission for us to go to Kashgar. the

commands

of the Governor-General are being transmitted

through the private note of a private man.

At our

tion!

first

meeting

I

What

an organiza-

Akbar the kingdom and

said to the Taotai that

Great called travelers the best ambassadors of his

always took care to preserve goood relationship with them. say

now

actively

that

I

to the Taotai,

describe

all

mood and

that occurred.

according to the committed

China

is

to write

evil,

a Confucian country

on your

can

“You, Ma-ta-jen, for three months very

have created our

would

I

I

did not hide from you

Confucius ordained that

one must

and according

act, in Just

to

portrait: Ma-ta-jen, ignorant

[187]

measure.

Confucius

and

I

have

cruel savage.”

ALTAI-HIMALAYA And

according to the teaching of Buddha, “ignorance

And

fied as the greatest crime.”

who

jected all

we

all

the

had approached with

quali-

same wise Confucius

and knowledge.

rebelled against art

is

However,

a sincere desire to inscribe into

notes that the powers of China

re-

our

had become more cultured than

And now

during the times of the decline of the empire. again piercingly look into the eyes of the

new

officials.

us

let

Does

there not hide behind their shoulders an ignorant Ma-ta-jen?

People have started to move. trunks, the best are

American

passes nor let through

trunks.

any

Out of all the They do not bend on all

Preparations!

— Belber. The

dust.

horse takes easily two

Rather bad are the Kashmiri ya\tans.

Our Chinese

is

on the part of the Taotai. “the customs”

He

rejoicing.

was

Now

apparently feared direct assaults

he recognizes that

He made

his following

us bring

fire-

crackers to the Taotai, the day of the completion of his

new

of

house.

He

superfluous.

arranged a procession with

gifts

Khotan. Against our wishes he brought cards

According

was

to the results this

all

in vain.

when he came to to the new Amban.

He

explains, that

these are not officers but bandits, but he also agrees that one

must abandon these customs.

As one might expect from

now

these ignorant officials of Khotan,

command from the efforts. They do not know

they give us to understand that the

Governor-General came through their

that in the letter of the British Consul the order of the receipt

of the

command

is

clearly

outlined and they think that

we

believe them.

A

mafa

five sar; a

(a carriage)

pack horse,

from Khotan

six sar.

to

Kashgar

costs twenty-

(A sar is about one Mexican

[

188

]

dollar.)

KHOTAN From

Some have

peared to be spoiled.

warned

in India they

still

but tropical films are a film or

more,

The

local

things.

Of

course,

is

lines

all

And

either white or black.

bearded

men

and black

While

spots.

are

Well,

our regular films turn out.

cloudy.

all

necessary ones ap-

us that these so-called tropical films

Generally

give bad results.

Of

many and

the developed negatives

coming

course, the true intention

often a whole half of

Very good are Agfa. to talk over all sorts of is

not revealed at once.

they wish to hear about the

new

They

customs.

They think that all men must labor. All is well and the tea is being consumed in full accord. But suddenly one drags from out his bosom a number of a London newspaper with a reprint of a drawing from think that these customs could be good.

Moscow magazine, Bezbojni\. Allah also received his unlucky share there. The bearded one “naively” inquires, “But this seems to be Allah?” Of course it is evident and he concludes sourly: “We do not touch their Lenin. Then why do they offend our Allah? And then, do they know the whole Koran? Let them not offend us Moslems. We are many.” The bearded ones a

sourly departed.

.

.

.

In Cairo, near Napoleon’s cannon-balls which stuck out in the walls of the

remove these these

A poral

Mosque,

traces of

I

“Why He answered: “We

asked the guide:

war?”

do you not guard

shall

marks of western sentiments.” representative of Japanese newspapers

punishment of children permitted

great country, the answer of the attacks

on Japan

Samurai, the warriors;

women;

was

Japan?”

in the negative.

“Is cor-

As

the heroism

the intensified labor of

and

befits

Really, are

The courage and honor

just?

[

in

was asked,

self-sacrifice

many of the

of the

workmen and husbandmen

189]

a

give

ALTAI-HIMALAYA undeniable charm to Nippon.

On

Japanese. friends.

never had any collisions with

the contrary, there appeared sensitive Japanese

my

recall

I

I

not refute them, but

articles,

long since, about Japan.

even will reaffirm

I

much

of

I

what was

shall told.

Eliseeff, in Paris,

spoke about the methods of teaching in Japanese

monasteries.

is

demand

It

that the

drama: The prince.

him cold

answer should not contain the

As

the personal.

very remarkable: Sudden questions and the

in

life,

appear the episodes of the Japanese

assassins are stealthily creeping to kill

Shockingly subtle

for her child. official

mourning over is

is

prince

when

her

torn with sorrow.

plan but nevertheless

it

considers his personality as

if

his

crown

the expression of her

supposed

the

Tao-Te-Ching points out: “A sage places

less his

the

In the helplessness of the moment, the nurse exchanges

mother’s heart

last

least intrusion of

personality

appears on the

ends are realized?

first

place.

He

detached from him, and neverthe-

preserved.

is

his personality in the

Is it

not because of

this,

that

Because he has no personal and private

He is free from self-exposition and therefore he gives light. He is free from self-affirmation and therefore is being distinguished. He is free from self-pride and therefore his merits are acknowledged. He is free from self-satisfaction and therefore he enjoys superiority. And because of that he is to such ends.

an extent free from any competition.

compete with him. like a child

He who

No

one

in the

possesses the qualities of

—the venomous insects

will not sting

man

ordains:

“By

creates of himself

introspection,

Tao

him; wild

mals will not attack him, birds of prey will not

Buddha

world can

strike

is

ani-

him!”

by virtue and purity a wise

an island which cannot be submerged by

any floods” (Udanavarga).

[190]

KHOTAN January 2 yd

Our Chinese and lama apparently know well Chinese

of

The

“prophecies.”

according

their

to

repeatedly assure us of their friend-

officials

and put the blame

ship

happens

Everything

official.

a certain type

for everything that

Governor-General of the Sinkiang province.

happened on the

Now

the

officials

have the problem, on what pretext to return our seized arms in order to restore everything to an elusive oral condition and to say: “All

that

was the fantasy of

occurred

months we passed through

For three

travelers.”

a

wonderful schooling; something

of the course experienced by

us nevertheless remains unclear.

why

For instance,

did the

way

every

officials in

prevent us from

communicating with America and why did they return us the telegrams undispatched?

is

it

known

to

everybody

Kashgar and the English Consulate one can always

that through

communicate. the

Whereas,

The

And

officials.

local people at

to

once warned us not to believe

our questions

as to

why,

since

we

did noth-

ing wrong, the local bearded one repeated, “Because they are

But

fools.”

sort of

also in the actions of hopeless fools there

even distorted sense.

It

is

some

means, therefore, that here

is

concealed not only stupidity but even criminality.

A

telegram came from

New

York: “American minister

is

acting.”

Let us finish by a page of that China which

we

did not see:

“Finally the yellow ruler, son of heaven, conquered the of earth his

and darkness.

head the

blue jade.

solar arch

The

But the giant

in his

agony knocked with

and broke into fragments the cupola of

stars lost their nests

and the moon wandered

without aim amidst the scattered fragments of night. the

He

did not search in vain. [

191

]

In despair

who could restore the From the eastern sea arose

ruler searched everywhere to find

heavens.

demon

ALTAI-HIMALAYA armor of

the ruleress, the heavenly Ny-uka, shining in her

She forged the

five colors of the

rainbow

in her

flames.

magic forge

and restored the heavens.” Let us not forget the colorful pollen of Japan which not yet

“Komio, the regent

see.

my hand

thee,

of Nara, sang,

oh

will defile thee,

on the bosom of the meadow, of the past, present

And of the hast

and

so ” future.’

I

did

pluck

as I see thee

Buddhas

dedicate thee to the

again a page from the true East apostrophizes the Mother

World: “Thou,

woven

Untold

Who hast

Thy

Face!

Thou,

Who

the texture of the far-off worlds, Messenger of the

Ruler of the Elusive

!

covered

Bestower of the Unrepeatable.

!

“By Thy command the ocean becomes winds

shall

‘If I

Thus

flower.

we

and the whirl-

silent

trace the outlines of invisible signs.

.

.

.

And

She

who

covered her face will stand on guard alone in the glory of the

And none

signs.

ascend to the summit, none will per-

will

ceive the glory of the twelve-signed

the spirals of light she herself has is

the Leader of those

who go

From

symbol of her power.

woven

the sign in silence.

toward attainment.

Four

She

corners,

the sign of affirmation, are manifested by her as a benediction to those

“A

who

silent

have made their decision.

command,

.

.

all-penetrating, unchangeable, indivisible,

irrefutable, blinding, generous,

harmed,

.

unpronounced,

indescribable, unrepeatable, un-

timeless,

manifested in the lightning!”

[

192]

undelayable

—the

lightning

Part VIII

TAKLA MAKAN— KARASHAHR (1926)

January 2 yth

Timur Bey are

some

is

our

historical

new

names;

all

are Shahs, Sultans, Beys.

to

weigh our

things.

transports one into the Neolithic

with some “magic” jade on a

little

circles

and

him

more

We

Truly

Age and we

The

stick

cap proclaims the number

such stones with holes from

them

called

7.

stops

that

is

grusily, plumb-lines; but

why to-morrow we go toward

on the way

to

Kashgar

3.

Yangi Hissar;

Yaberchat;

13.

Our friends, the Kalmucks, way to Aksu and Karashahr. rang the low-toned

rugs from

many

scale

massive green piece of

Zangu Chuda; 4. Guma bazaar; Karghalik; 8. Posgam; 9. Yarkand;

Kizil; 12.

gates,

little

we found

must go eastward and

Pialma;

kim;

Akhun.

correctly, these are weights.

the west! 2.

A

the

string slides along as a counterbalance for the

alone.

the Neolithic

Even

The arrangement of the Age. On a beam hangs a

signs.

trunk and “the magi” in a round seen by

look, there

to himself the title

most insignificant one appropriates

He comes

Wherever you

caravaneer.

Khotan

to

1.

Cholak;

5.

10.

Zawa; 6.

Ak-

Kokrabat; n.

Kashgar.

passed us yesterday on the shortest In the darkness of dawn, past our

bells of their camels.

With them

Toin Lama.

valuable messages

14.

are:

They

carried

they also carried

which can be appreciated by the Bud-

dhist consciousness.

Again

in

our caravan there will be three currents: Buddhist,

Moslem, Chinese.

The

last

one [

the weakest.

is

193

]

The

last

inven-

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Han Chen — the

tion of Ts’ai

banner of the expedition with the

big inscription “Lo” (Roerich) which also means “Alarm,”

on

a vivid red staff.

and, as

officials

we

Ts’ai

Hang Chen

put

is

took our cards to the

Amban,

expected, the rogues, Taotai and

assured us that they had greatly helped us.

The mafas came

lama and

for the

Ts’ai

Han

Chen.

It

is

evident that these carriages have not changed since the fifteenth

They would be good

century.

for

any museum.

Kudai-Berdi-

Bai brought a dastarhjian in the shape of roasted mutton and Incidentally, the Chinese colonel also realized that some-

pastry.

thing unfortunate had happened. caps; again the ferocious roar of

on the road.

started

came statue,

For the

And

flying to us.

became seemingly

last

Again

loads; again woolly

time the

sheep came. transfixed

we

In the morning

Tumbal.

little

Tumbal,

on the

Khotan

birds of

a black

like

baggage.

pile of

January 2 8th

From

We is

seven o’clock in the morning

saw the type

of

work

that of the Dardistans

Nepalese, but worst of incapacity

is

hard

all,

of Ladakis

collected the caravan.

—swift,

and Kashmiris.

From

We

Worse

energetic.

Good

that of Khotanese.

to imagine.

forty horses with effort.

we

the

is

Such

work

laziness

of

and

seven to twelve they loaded

went through Khotan; again we

were convinced that whatever bears the marks of old Khotan is

not so bad and shows remnants of carving, of some ornamenta-

tion

and proportion.

less

heap of clay and

But everything new has become a sensepitiful stakes.

At

the bazaar you some-

times see faces, not wicked, but depressed and void of any expression. It

is

Khotan have exhausted

clear that places like

their old

sap and can be rejuvenated only by a radical reconstruction.

The Chinese sit behind the clay walls show no desire to cooperate with the [

194

]

of the Chinese city.

population.

They

They remain

TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR accidental newcomers,

ments

A

From

become dusty and brains have become

Life has

to help.

dusty.

and do not think of making any improve-

flash of vigorous lightning

is

needed.

afar appears the silhouette of light gray

from

grieves one to depart

this

remarkable range

Kwen

—

it

lun.

It

grieves one

Himalayas are again receding.

to realize that the

Again we have

guard of

a

five

soldiers.

It

is

known

not

whether we are guarding them or whether they are guarding us.

Karakash darya

thin

ice.

burning.

The morning Buds

are

Han Chen

the sun

that

we

already

is

Beside the road perch gray-

Again Zawa.

passed nine wayside towers.

says smiling,

Khotan thinks

of

midday

cold but by

is

on the branches.

We

crested larks. Ts’ai

frozen and the horses break through the

is

with a toothless mouth, “The Taotai

will return again to

Such a

Khotan.

stupid official!”

But

we

now

all

are again in the desert.

so

much

from us because

Again the purple

of the evening

The caravan with our belongings

sands; again bonfires. delayed,

officials are far

thoughts of stupid

and we wait quite complicate

colored feltings.

at ease as

do not

life

On

the sands are

it

stationed with us to

was apparent

He

moon and the human poison.

said,

opium

the chief protector of

bek and

“Of

course,

a statue

is

.

.

it

is

In the eve-

officer

Ts’ai

who were Han Chen

very bad, but to

erected.”

silence of the night

of the

with

that the

smoked opium. George asked

reprimand them.

many-

of flame, fiery and courageous,

whirl out toward the endless long evening clouds. ning, in Zawa,

much

though these things which

exist.

The gay tongues

is

And

the light

were again permeated

.

January 29th

dawn we ourselves had again to arouse the whole caraTimur Bey went away somewhere and proved himself a

Before van.

sluggard.

I

began to

call

alongside the tents in Tibetan, “Long, [

195

]

—

long, long”

—

On

the people.

and began that

is

it

as

Again the

the traces of light

become more

wearisome

the twilight

unknown shall

dull

in all directions.

snow

a

The

It

silvery tones

The snowy mountains toward and more

In

tired.

message from the desert from the back of an

At eight

Nystrom

Here, awaiting us

According

under a

to his tales,

officials.

and insolent changing of

instability

•

•

•

we

the Swedish

is

with the Chinese

as ours

a

Well,

o’clock, in the darkness,

(in Chinese, Liseti).

such cases

same hypocritical

the

But the sands are

varied.

have seldom become so

moon, we enter Pialma.

many

But

doves.

camel: “In Pialma the water has dried up.”

missionary,

seems

ready to

is

mazar with

are everywhere.

We

as before.

—the

Again

desert.

ethereal

go somehow.

he had

with a big horn came out

the miller notifying the peasants that he

have become more severe. left

man

the hillock, a

blow a sustained note

to

grind grain.

now

Tibetans cry early in the morning, rousing

as the

The

decisions.

•

January goth

The

Around

fog descends.

us

the bluish-white fog

is

Sometimes the sands assume

circular plateau of the sands.

we

are

going along a very

bur\hans, thin abrupt

still

plateau with rare

low

ton of a donkey.

Each one

of

line

Here, half-ruined towers

them

in forty minutes.

ten

li

apart.

The waves

on the horizon.

plateau

Half-covered,

bushes.

little

flat

What

a

But

sculptural character or resemble the shell of a pearl.

to-day

and the

One can

of the sand

lies

potais

the skele-

—stick

out.

easily cross a potai

merge

into an even

could disturb the monotony of

this

?

In the desert of Khotan, a rumor reached us about the well-

known

traveler, Kosloff.

They

say that

when

Kosloff was in

Karashahr, there was a “horrible dragon” living there, but the courageous Russian bogatyr conquered the dangerous dragon, conjured him, and sealed

him [

in a glass jar.

196]

By

this

act the

TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR whole

district

They speak

was saved.

of the buried cities

A

they point with their hands toward Takla-Makan.

and

sort of

reverence and superstitious fear resound as they pronounce the

name

They go from Pialma

of caravans.

files

In this direction are spread two narrow

of the great desert.

nothing

And no

else.

And no

sounds.

dust winds into a blue curtain.

And here is And the pearly

for fuel. colors.

Like ancient catafalques the

mafas proceed rhythmically and the purple wheels slowly turn.

The

from the wind he has donned the most amazing yellow

protection

Whence

cape with the longest red cloak. are buried

To

some thousands of

the left the

file

this

invention?

of a caravan departs.

they go to the Tibetan lakes for orable meeting!

walks boldly.

From

His

gait

afar, is

is

Yes,

it

in the desert.

he tell

is

meet.

Where here

to?

This

is

Yes, so

is

this

is

A

They

He

will

shows

toward

us.

go anywhere,

all his teeth,

We

A

cap with ear-laps.

all

and they

Wherefrom

tongue?

One

Wherefrom,

with

start

to

Chang-thang;

And

Wherefore

united valiant step?

this

the courage of lonely marches

this passing friend

alone

find mutual acquaintances.

that brings us so close to the Ladakis?

common

gray

“Djuli, Djuli,” he greets.

him whither each one went. it

is,

memman. He

another through Kokyar; another was freezing in Sanju.

what

it

another

silhouetted a small

stretches out his hand.

attracted

it

not that of a Sart; and a Chinese does

a Ladaki.

We

and he

to gleam,

And

is

And

salt.

not go solitary through the desert. cloak.

In

years.

the direction straight to Tibet, to Chang-thang.

We

As

red cloak of the Chinese officer shows flame-colored.

?

We

wanted

to

keep

us.

January 31st

wind and fog the vivid morning glows radiantly. far as Chuda; the people ask us to defer the pass to

After the

We

go

as

Guma for

two

days.

We shall [

do

this.

i97]

The Chinese department

ALTAI-HIMALAYA of the caravan disintegrated

Chen

and became

his gloves

Altogether

it

was again apparent

his

Chang was

butterflies.

bed because

Han Chen

up is

excellently

carefully preoccupied beside

The

the Sarts.

and

soldiers

And

in caps resembled anything except warriors. their

march,

proper Chinese bed has to look like a moun-

a

Sung boldly attacked

tain.

lost

soldier lost his

to us, that, for a

Ts’ai

col-

Sung

road.

The Chinese

the Chinese are absolutely unfit.

mounted

Tang-ke-chang

somewhere on the

irritated.

Han

the fourth day Ts’ai

already had the appearance of a corpse.

lapsed and even remained

horse.

On

first.

officers

the guns with

muzzles hermetically stuffed-up and with the triggers bound

are transformed

true there are

would run

from an

no robbers

active apparatus into a symbol.

here, but in

at sight of the first

Again we find side of each

any case

organized column.

hidden some such

is

troop

this entire

From

the bluish-white spots of snow.

bar\han

It

the north

light, fragrant spot.

Assuredly the snow gives to the ground an especial fragrance.

—

One cannot believe that to-day is the last day of January spring. The Turkis are working better to-day, and for this Poor ones

receive a sheep.

—they

appreciate every token.

parently the proprietor of the caravan

is

pressing them.

what kind

?

Gegen

at the It is

verily,

of a “ladder of octopi”

is

this

is

it

is

they

Ap-

And

again angry

Chinese. pleasant to it is

February

Guma

come

spring.

I

to the

encampment

Yes, yes,

before dark.

have been painting.

ist

Bazaar.

formations.

We

At times

of stupas or towers.

marched through some it

There

the impression of shores there were a sea.

seemed is

as

fantastic

though these were remains

more snow. The white

and between them

So convincing

[198]

is

sand

it

seems

slopes give as

though

the impression of the sea

— TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR that one has to

no such water

Again

is

one’s self that in the desert there are

surfaces.

“prepared” for us a dusty garden; again beks and

We

soldiers.

remind

in spreading

had hardly succeeded

our tents before

Our impression of him is better than that of The Amban knows about our Khotan the one in Khotan. He wonders troubles. He is indignant at the Khotan officials. the

Amban

came.

can prohibit a painter from working and confirms the

how one

fact that the cult.

road to Tun-huang through the desert

for the “T’ai-T’ai” *

And

themes: In

Guma

Kansu.

Urumchi

In

outdoors as

it

we do

here.

Kashgar there are Karashahr.

Amban

is

it

In

summer;

very cold;

Guma

it

it

hotter than in

is

impossible to

is

the horses are not

we

his nine-year-old son.

go away.

And George

his return visit.

sit

good but

knew without him.

also

in

There

is

a

With

the

Afterward they put father and

son into a vividly-colored two-wheeled conveyance all

go on

horses and the best pacing horses are in

tall

All this

now

is

to

diffi-

conversation turns to childish

very hot in

is

very

would be impossible

it

The

such a road for two months.

is

mafa

—and

has again to go on horseback to pay

crowd

Above

at the gates.

the clay

The soldiers are To-morrow we shall

walls a mass of heads in woolly caps peer out. noisily

whipping the uninvited

spectators.

In Cholak

stop in Selyak instead of Cholak.

all

the water has

dried up.

The evening ends with Chinese paper lanterns arrives. circle is

young

the old his

man; he

A

procession with

Before the gates of the garden, a close

formed and they begin

woman and

dances.

to dance.

First,

an old man, a

a camel.

The young woman runs away from

catches her

and the camel decoratively shakes

woolly neck.

Then

the dance of the ship accompanied by a song.

In a red

paper boat swings “the beauty,” and the boatman, in a role like *

T’ai-T’ai— lady. [

199

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Charon,

rowing

is

at the

bow

Afterwards dragons

of the boat.

and horsemen on paper horses. They sing: “As in the heaven are being born the

stars, so

from the

not subtle but there

It is

common

nothing

is

emerging the waters.”

earth, are

or insolent about

The

Voices of grown-ups mingle with clear young voices.

it.

darkness of the night

is

with the movements of a simple

filled

and not unruly crowd. February 2nd

A

The

wintry white desert.

abruptly

commences

low snowy

hills.

Guma

after

On

On

Bazaar.

account of the water

caravans, with a

An

gray sky.

Selyak

as these.

few gnarled

silent desert.

Moldavak

—who

A

camels, half a dozen dogs and

Nothing

here strange information reaches us about Khotan. alias

to stop in

a simple clay serai for

the frightened children of the proprietor.

—

plain

have not yet had

amidst the

trees

Some

eastern wind.

is

flat

the horizon are

we had

We

Selyak at one o’clock in the afternoon.

such short crossings

A

torrents are frozen.

else.

And

Karken Bey

looked so remarkably like a European,

proclaimed himself a Persian

citizen,

but proved to be a director

Ottoman bank and a Catholic. This is, verily, a combination. In his workshop they are imitating carpets,

of the

strange follow-

Museum. With he connected? And in what

ing the ones found in the editions of the British

what firm

in

London

or Paris

is

antique shops does one encounter his imitations?

At from back,

the bazaar in

Guma

their faces

order to see us better.

is

in

put together like

the

a

women

lifted

back their

The

veil,

veils

thrown

\o\oshni\ (Slavonic headgear).

Probably the form of some \o\oshni\s developed from the raised veil.

The bek

in

Guma

is

even have to use make-up.

an absolute “Sadko” and he does not

For

all

the operas of Rimsky-Korsa-

koff there are characters ready made.

In the road the soldiers are telling our T’sai [

200

]

Han Chen

the

— TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR reason

why

their horses are so poor.

ernment twenty-five or

They

or ten.”

all

end

are speaking about the

Somehow

to the arrested one,

had

murder

the gov-

pay

of the

fifteen

Kashgar

the murderer hastened

without the

of the

trial

Gov-

Everywhere are mercenary motives of some kind.

ernor-General.

We

officials bill

thirty sars, but they themselves

Titai by the Taotai of Khotan. to put an

“The

to leave

Chang

Guma. He

in

an example of the destructive

effect of

collapsed completely

As soon

opium.

as the

smoker, from out his smoky den, comes into vigorous conditions of nature, he falls apart like a card house.

The water

in Selyak

is

weak

like

Again we

be ugly looking and unsavory.

Not

far off

stakes.

I

is

a lonely

coffee.

The

tea turns out to

are setting

tomb with two animal

up the

tails

tents.

on the bent

have been painting.

We are reading Vladimirtzeff’s description of the life of Jenghis Khan. A fine, vital savant Vladimirtzeff. Recently he has is

published several books and

needed for the time

!

It is

all

of such virile content!

a pity that

Rudnief

is

silent.

to translate the description of the life of Jenghis ica.

This enterprising fundamental

February

spirit will

Khan

And

so

One ought for

Amer-

be valued there.

yd

During the night the caravans

pass by

ring out as a complete orchestra.

—the

bells of the

camels

Finally one caravan walks

From morning on there a wind. The desert is completely white. The winter has started and through the entire long crossing we go as in the far north. We pass an old langar with the ruins of towers. The low trees stand out in silhouette and we can see Ak-kem — a small village with a few little huts. Our caravan is very much delayed and we sit and wait once more. against our tent

and almost crushes

it.

is

Again endless

tales

about the cowardice of the Chinese colonel

T’ung-ling); about the treachery of Taotai; about the stupidity

[201

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Amban. Never and nowhere

of the

unanimous condemnation of the it

down;

it

officials.

It is

The Chinese department

horse.

pletely without luck.

E.

This

eight to four.

must have been

I.

com-

is

has been trotting on her horse from

astonishing.

is

twice

fell

of the caravan

set

com-

will have

Sung

officials.

its

such

even boring to

new China

this;

change the character of

pletely to

from the

cannot continue like

we heard

before have

In some former time she

a rider.

From somewhere

they are bringing very beautiful feltings, as In

coverings for the floor.

complicated mosaic

Khotan we saw none Better than

design.

koshmas and chintzes

A

like these.

Truly,

the carpets.

The

are the best of the local industries.

designs of the chintzes are the same as in Russia in the seventeenth

century or earlier.

I

have been painting.

February 4th

From Ak-kem the

snowy

disappear.

to

desert.

Karghalik

They

Somehow

is

say that in a day the

from Selyak

the strip

Maybe

always exceptionally snowy.

range of mountains

a short but a cold crossing along

—other reasons

peculiarity of the local places

is

it

is

snow to

Karghalik

is

the influence of

some

The

other

are not apparent.

that silver

will again

and even gold become

absolutely black; probably the consistency of the soil contributes

Gradually along the extended outskirts

to this.

Karghalik Bazaar. Alas! Srinagar.

We

The customary Amban.”

We

severe smell

it

recalls ill-smelling

why it is so dirty here, worse than in Guma. reply: “Amban pu hao.” That means a “mean

ask

We

and look

had

to resign ourselves to our operetta escort, the

for a garden outside the city.

tary house with a garden.

of the

its

enter the

receive quarters in the very bazaar itself amidst unbeliev-

able dirt.

beks,

By

we

Khotan Taotai end.

We

found a

To-morrow, the gloomy Will [

202

it ]

be better?

One

soli-

possessions

thing this

TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR criminal could not spoil: he could not contaminate the air of the

A

desert.

wonderful prelude

The day ends artists

all

maiden

of a

resembling the balalaika.

And

This

lanterns are not bad. lit

dow

Give

less goiters.

of light

The

stilts.

natural

strings

could find sugges-

fragment of creation for a

desert.

win-

to this people at least a small

and the vehement

fire

of the hearts will flare up. •

•

•

•

a

Bolm

a

the servants in red with paper

little

up the deadness of the

Here are

on

accompanied by

is

DiaghilefT and

tions for their compositions.

minute

the dance

the boat are

The same Russian dance concerning

reveal themselves.

young man’s courtship

is

air is brisk.

The dragon and

again with dances.

But best of

seen again.

The

to spring.

February yth

The

Karghalik said farewell poorly. appeared to be

We

idiots.

could not get any horses; finally

one bek appeared on a wild of E.

I.

The blow

fell just

was softened by the

beks, stationed with us,

colt

which kicked Olla

on the leg of E.

they force upon us these beks and soldiers?

mained soldiers

in

in

Karghalik

—many

after the

murders.

Karghalik are bad.

mean.”

as a servant.

We The

(They pronounce

The snow

murder of

ask our

should

Yesterday a

happened, he

the

Amban

salt

re-

by the the beks

“Amban

answer:

stopped at once beyond Karghalik.

We passed two bazaars. We passed teries

it

Amban

snowy expanse ended; but then the white

it

Besides discomfort

Tsung why even

stereotyped

here not

it

As

why

truly,

and expense they do not contribute anything. Chinese came to be hired

horse

But happily

I.

And,

Gilgit soft boots.

— the

is

but Ambal.)

Apparently the

marshes

started.

wretched mosques and ceme-

and we entered the long Posgam bazaar.

We

do not

stay

in the tents but in the house of the elder, a big house

with dark

on the

floor; the

little

table

rooms.

Again many-colored

and armchairs

are

even T

feltings are

upholstered with

203]

leather.

Of

ALTAI-HIMALAYA course this house was pointed out to us by an incidental Pun-

from the bazaar because

jabian

When

from moving.

deprived

end,

tions

We

wilderness?

all

the beks only hindered us

will these hopelessly

of

have

monotonous

and deteriorating

color

Of

just passed a forge.

in

habita-

and

filth

course

it

would

be wonderful for the details of a setting of the Nieblungen, but as

an agricultural instrument

Take away

like bellows.

cannot be of any worth.

men and

holes are half-naked

little

it

In the

children blowing into toy-

the excitement of the caravan

and every-

thing will sink into a complete paralysis.

February 6th

Almost the

entire crossing to

Yarkand

is

amidst the peaceful

For a moment the rumbling surface of Yarkand

borders of oases.

For a

darya glimmered.

moment

the colorful crossing

on

rafts

amidst the icy shores flashed out, amidst the gathering of horses, camels, mules and mafas; and afterward the mazars and clay huts.

And

road.

Thus up

a house

is

the heavy-topped trunks of the willows beside the to

Yarkand

prepared for

up

itself,

us, in the

bazaar

itself;

but there appears

They

a deliverer in the shape of a Ladaki Aksakal.

town and

out of

quarters for our

in a quiet

garden

men, with red

we

carpets and,

most important,

From Posgam

— was the salutation of the Punjabi “Urus Kharosh.”

our farewell here

is

lead us

find a white house with

with the Lhasa language of the Aksakal himself.

And

Again

to the clay walls.

We

the familiar Tibetan language.

missionaries.

We

visit

cure our old man, the Chinese;

to different tales of the local customs;

how

we

Chinese

the Swedish listen

again

officials

are

driving the population toward complete ruin, after which they easily

govern the pauperized pariahs.

English Consul. Asiatic

bank

He

invites us to

also offers three

A

letter

came from

stop with him.

rooms in Kashgar.

[204]

The

the

local

TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR 'February yth

A A

day in Yarkand.

Our

strange thing; absolutely

people are eating mutton.

beg

all

to continue

with

Silence.

Even the

us.

Chinese soldiers of the escort say they would joyfully go further

with

an

us.

A

officer,

they

all

Ghinese captain entered our service as a sweeper; also

beg us; so that

until

we

He makes

a

Urumchi we

reach

We

strange international combination.

Amban.

Amban;

an Armenian, the major-domo of the former

better

paid a

impression

shall

visit to

than

go

in a

the local

Khotan

the

“rulers.”

Han Chen began to relate the circumstances Khotan captivity, the Amban became sincerely indignant.

When of our

our Ts’ai

But the most remarkable thing the

Amban,

letters

is

that,

according to the words of

from Peking about our passage were received

everywhere with requests to help us along. nant.

How

The Amban

is

indig-

did the Khotan people dare to disregard the order

from Peking? Again we pass through bazaars

On

tion:

the doorways of the

as in

Khotan.

yamen, instead of a

A

slight varia-

catlike dragon,

there are pictures of a series of warriors with swords. o’clock the soldiers

red

umbrella,

and the beks come

peaceful tea-party.

the

Then

we

agreeable compliments,

for Ts’ai

Han Chen. The

Chinese theater follows.

part.

by a

follows

that he could

arrange a good lunch because of our hasty departure.

many

three

to us and, preceded

Amban himself. The Amban apologizes

arrives

At

A

a

not

After

Chinese doctor comes

sentries stand in black turbans.

They

A

are trying out the horses.

peaceful medieval nonsense as in the paintings of Vinckboons.

From somewhere rumors in

creep into

Yarkand about some events

China; about the movements of Feng, about the closing of

banks in Peking; about the actions of the old dynasty!

But

no one knows anything and one cannot understand a thing.

[

205

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA February 8th

Buddha was opposed

and was put

try to vindicate himself

him but

the time to liberate said that never

and

Then came would not come out.

the prisoner

a quiet place,

where they fed one and did not

noise,

With

disturb his meditation.

did not

into prison.

and nowhere did he have such

where there was no

man

He

In a crowd an old lama was arrested.

esting case.

labor

In Darjeeling not long ago there was an inter-

intensive work.

He

He demanded

to prisons.

difficulty they

persuaded the old

to leave the prison.

The lama

“Do

says:

not beat people but

This remark

out their penalty.”

them

let

work

justly

provoked on seeing that the

is

beks are striking people and are planting furrows of hatred, protests

At

and humiliation.

we do

the time of our departure

makes

itself

in size

a

much

better impression than

and more varied

and walls give

a

in

certain

beyond the tops of the

its

Khotan;

and even the

trade;

left

the

bigger

is

And

there,

—the ridge of

appear the mountains

Kashgar, which does not leave our

it

clay towers

decorative impression.

trees,

Yarkand

not escape a fray.

whole way.

And

everything becomes beautified; and tiny ice-covered lakes and blue rivers and

brown

We

of rocky mountains.

own

planet

love the mountains so

has started to

the Chinese.

We

Our

announced

Han

to demoralize

have to use severe measures.

shall

We are standing behind the boundary of a little will be

much!

appeared that Ts’ai

It

smoke opium and has begun

the rest of the caravan.

It

background

would be very mountainous!

Again trouble with

Chen

hillocks appear against a blue

that every one that

village,

Kokrabat.

smokes opium

will be

discharged immediately. •

•

•

*

•

February gth

Again the mazars, the graves with banners. [

206

]

Little

mosques

TAKLA MAKAN— KAR ASH AHR for the

How much

Namaz.

desert

on

before

a

more touching

Namaz in the than the Namaz

the

is

rug before the face of heaven,

a little

Very humble, these by-way

barren clay wall.

mosques, with crooked walls and toylike

we have

Where

turrets.

did

For the whole

the creativeness of this country disappear to?

time

clay

seen only one filigree earring, not bad, and a

couple of silver buttons.

women

In the sun,

on donkeys with

bright green and scarlet che\mens, are gracefully riding by. It

seems

It is

as

though there are fewer

A man is

must be other

rides past us

reasons.

with a falcon in his hands.

you sometimes have

We are followed We remember how

to shoot

them

along the Kara-kum sands

and pebbles gives

of chipped stones

At

—meaning

falcon

by

flocks

in

Mon-

to rid yourself of the

We

are

going

the black sands.

A

layer

innumerable flocks of crows that attack the horses.

the desert.

The

the favorite sport here.

still

meddling crows and ravens.

golia

Aside from the quality of

growth of the thyroid gland.

the water there

of

Khotan.

an interesting problem to investigate the cause of that mon-

strous

hunt

goiters here than in

a grayish pearly surface to

the left the masses of mountains continue.

strange to think that beyond these mountains

is

It is

already Russian

Turkestan, and that these ranges end in the heights of Pamir. It is

the

day, after three months,

first

beautiful, colorful

and varied.

And

when

the desert

is

the blue sky adorns

with an especially subtle design of feathery white cloudlets.

really itself

Upon

snow glitters. The pink footblue mist out of which emerges the outline

the crests of the mountains the hills

disappear into a

of the ridges.

The men that

is

good

A

bright day.

are anticipating the visit to Kashgar. in

Kashgar

is

The good houses The good horses are

called foreign.

The good boots are foreign. The good carts are foreign.

are foreign.

foreign.

Everything

—inns.

or three abandoned langars

[207]

And

We

are

passing two

in clouds of darken-

ALTAI-HIMALAYA we

ing dust

considered

is

A

clay squares of huts. it

big old

Moslem

The

The

The

him go

to let

soon

as

as

We

possible.

afar

holes of the old

Han

We

whole night.

the

at

silent

From

people complain about Ts’ai

man smoked opium

old

arrived

cemetery.

looks like a whole big city of red clay.

graves are black.

have

already

crossing

half-abandoned place with

a strange,

is

The

camp.

will

one but we

long

a

Kizil

two-thirty.

where we

enter Kizil

Chen.

decided

cannot retain in the

caravan such an unpleasant example; Sung holds out better than

He does not smoke and shows resourcehim why the little finger on his left hand appears he was a terrible gambler who lost

the rest of the Chinese.

We

fulness.

asked

was amputated.

became poor, and

everything, self

It

cut off his

little

linger,

in order to

pay

he him-

and thus we have one gambler, one

murdered Amban, one from

officer of the

his debts,

the caravan of the

murdered American, Langdon; one a confirmed smoker of

opium

—quite

variety.

a

Ladaki, Ramsana, adorned himself to such an extent that

Our

he even pinned

to his chest

the greatest desire of

good

made

be

He

horse.

is

out of him.

Ramsana

to carry a gun,

is

His father

is

a

and

Moslem and

his

ride a

man

can

mother

marks the lamas recognized

of

But

a garter.

eighteen years old and a useful

By some kind

Buddhist.

two buckles from

in

a

him

the reincarnated dead abbot of the monastery, but his father, a confirmed

Moslem, interfered with •

•

•

his

monastic career.

•

February ioth Mist; the north

we

wind and dense clouds

of mist.

For long

journeyed through sandy corridors and deep creeks.

long time

we have

Then gray brown

tone.

salt It

For a

not seen such an amount of all-pervading sand.

marshes appeared and low hillocks of a bluish-

became more

beautiful,

[208]

and when we approached

R

TAKLA M AK AN— K AR ASH AH Kingul darya with high shores, with bridge, with

dams and with

became quite

lovely.

We

drawings.

A house was We stopped

frozen high hanging

a

a cluster

and

of houses

walls,

it

Such landscapes one finds on old Chinese

entered into the long bazaar of Yangi Hissar.

prepared in the bazaar and

The

Swedish Mission.

the

in

as usual

it

was not good. was

conversation

about Stockholm, about the curing of goiter with iodine and

movement of Feng toward Sinkiang. They say that behind the grave of Mohammed

the

empty grave prepared

for

ready for the coming of the Messiah.

and

now

Every one

and of

his

murdered

Khotan coincide except

the stories of

Here they

heading.

two

somewhere.

And now

days,

and that then the

In the papers

of crucifixion.

Here continue

ruins.

we

hear

tales

built

by the ruler this

tragedy

and treachery, the

for murderers.

The

sale

hasten-

a

Buddhist temple.

Buddhism

existed

;

but

it is

did not happen to hear previously about these

That means

is

remained on

body was thrown out

Kashgar are the ruins of

that in

mazar of Miriam and

We

crucifixions

be, because in these regions

The evening

his

ruler

necessary.

is

say that near

interesting that

In general

was described of

little

and generous remuneration

ing of evolution

They recount

trial.

mazar (the grave)

stands empty.

must

own way.

for the details of the be-

say that the crucified

the cross for

of people

in his

son.

the medieval details of this murder, without

it

second

Hindu merchants came to give us their “salaam” us upon our arrival. They show us photographs

of the crucified Titai

So

an

the

to greet

They

his

is

In Ispahan, in Persia, they keep a saddled white horse

coming.

Just

time of

the

in

Jesus,

there

Kashgar there are mosques and the

the ruins of

Buddhism!

spent with the Swedish folk.

about the richness of

than three per cent of the area

is

[209]

this

A

quiet supper.

country where not more

cultivated.

In the near-by

ALTAI-HIMALAYA mountains

and

iron, copper, silver

dered Titai intended to

these possibilities have again been

sunken in darkness.

nth

February

We

now

developments, but

certain

start

The mur-

coal are found.

The

bid farewell to the hospitable family of Anderson.

seven-month-old Sven stared with his blue eyes

at E.

her finger tightly and did not want to

We spoke about

let

her go.

I.,

caught

many

the fertility of the district where, besides varied vegetables, curative herbs: ricinus, licorice, digitalis

One can imagine how

and

others, are

growing

the plain

would develop under

the tractors of Ford.

They speak about

the absence of forests

in these localities; but

two

wild.

are short) there

is

Or it

which does not

to plant

is

radium

whole spaces with

trunks of former forests.

take with us

below the

best samples.

It is

There

has only to collect are just like spring.

is it

that,

oil?

how

easy

in these places as well as the

only necessary to apply the

least

district will

become unrec-

plenty of water during the

summer; one

in reservoirs.

Now

in

February the days

Only December and January

cold air of the night

would only not

At

is

While excavating, great

trees.

and resourcefulness and the

ognizable.

We

mountains?

in the

stumps have often been found

diligence

fall

crossings

not be that here in the neighborhood there

it

that there

is

march away (and the

a wonderful store of coal.

a piece of this product

And may

days’

is

of a refreshing nature.

fear everything

new and

if

are cold. If

The

the Chinese

their officials

were

chosen according to merit and not according to their capacity for robbing!

Otherwise, whence

richment of the

Ambans and

manifestation of assiduity

enrichment of the

We stopped in

is

officials,

this

incomprehensibly speedy en-

Taotais?

By such means every

only for the ends of the most speedy

immersed

in

opium and gambling.

Yaberchat, a small place four hours from Kashgar.

[210]

R

TAKLA MAKAN— KARASHAH We

could easily have

made

the route to

but on account of the pack horses

we had

among heavy-topped willows and

Kashgar

in

one day,

to stay in the outskirts,

clay walls.

February 12th

low brush, naked willows and

Mist,

ings over ice-covered streams.

The

Kashgar.

There

walls are

First

more imposing than the Yarkand

more verve and motion

is

bumpy road, with crosswe pass the new city of a

in the bazaar.

two

two

a distance of about

is

Prisoners in

Between the new and

chains are begging alms for their food. the old city

Toward

p’o-t’ai.

Consul awaits us for breakfast while the house of the being

is

us ride

red Chaprassi” from the English Consul.

“vividly

made

ready.

The

British

walls.

local

The bank

Consul and his wife inquire In the bank they

sympathetically about the affairs at Khotan.

speak “about the character” of the Chinese administration.

seems that the Khotan Taotai

and nobody

The

is

is

known

in the

whole province

The caravan

astonished at his action.

It

arrives.

things are brought in.

February 13th

The Chinese are

awakened by the

the wall

was

it

came.

we

New

Year!

Major Gillan, the

Behind

We

thought

British Consul,

It

appears that they are both Scotch.

morning we

rockets.

and shots are heard.

fire.

and

Among

his wife

the Scotch

long ago found sympathetic people, and these belong to a

Moslem who

The Ladaki Aksakal comes.

lived for a long time in

He

translator of the consulate comes.

of

and

a

fine type of Scotch clans.

a

o’clock in the

noise of firecrackers

a pillar of flame

is

At four

smoking

selves the

of

opium and hemp

Lhasa and Shigatse.

He

is

The

complains of the increase

hashish.

The

rich permit

them-

luxury of using expensive opium, and the poor ones

dope themselves with homemade hashish. [211

]

The

possibility

of

ALTAI-HIMALAYA earning a livelihood

is

Formerly about

very poor here.

thirty

thousand people went each year to other countries for their living.

And ficials

again endless

by

When

pillage.

—who

you

of-

are seated in a peaceful Chinese

remember about the robbers

restaurant in America,

and Ambans

about the enrichment of Chinese

tales

—the Taotais

are keeping the people in complete torpor.

Let the sight-seeing motors

to

Chinatown remind you how mil-

lions of people are perishing in the darkness of ignorance.

The director of the branch of the new wave of information. Each part money, which

is

local

bank, A., comes.

of the province has

its

accepted with reluctance in the neighboring

the value of one-third of a sar; in Kuldja, they have their

which the population

quarter of a lan

As

ing parts.

is

calls

At

roubles.

obtained by tearing the

that,

is

under Ians of

it

some

pieces of

which one-half

But when

former value, one pastes

its

One may

receive

an advertisement of a

sale of

any kind of paper.

consists of

half or a

monetary symbols

a result of such operations the

necessary to give the symbol

own

into correspond-

bill

are turned into tatters, deprived of any designation. it

own

In Kashgar are sars; in Urumchi, Ians, which have

provinces.

Ians,

A

soap or something as unexpected.

We

see the

Swedish missionary, Palmberg.

In spite of the

medical activity of the Swedish Missions, they are periodically subject to persecution

on the part of the

Recently they

officials.

even had temporarily to discontinue the work, and yet they are the only doctors in the whole large

garrison

nowhere

is

there a doctor.

in the

The

Not even

district.

inhabitants

local

world do people know what

abandoned Chinese Turkestan, handful of ignoramuses.

left as

it

They beseech

is

us:

at the

us that

tell

is

occurring in

to the

plunder of a

“Write and

tell

to

the world about the deterioration of an entire country into a

savage state.”

Again prisoners

in chains are passing,

[212]

begging

TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR alms.

This custom was

to see

it

in usage

now

common

in the fifteenth century, but

astonishes one.

February 14th

We is

are sitting in semi-inactivity because the Chinese

being celebrated for several days.

can Consul

in Calcutta, dear

which were not

of the year

Mr. Jenkins, figured out

The

tions of the

the Ameriall

the days

affected by the holidays of the different

here they celebrated the European

Chinese.

Year

There remained only fifty-two working days.

local nationalities.

And

remember how

I

New

New

Year and

now

the

various explanations hinder greatly the calcula-

Moslem, Chinese, Tibetan

months.

—

these calcu-

all

late different dates.

A

comes and

Sart

Kucha

says that near

the inhabitants are

destroying the remains of the Buddhist temples. is

that

and

many

travelers

and

frescoes,

They

these guests. frescoes

it is

and Chinese

.

The

.

.

reason

are interested in these ruins

people to accommodate

difficult for the

built a great fire within the ruins,

were destroyed. One may suspect

and the

also another cause

Whether by

ancient iconoclasm of the Moslems.

all

this or

— the some

other means, soon these small remnants of Tokhars and Uigurs will also disappear.

February iyth

we visit The yamen

In the morning good-nature.

The

the Taotai.

has a

more

There

not see the tattered soldiers.

impression

livable aspect.

is

no crowd

Tao, the manager of the foreign department,

Of

is

One

of beks.

is

recommendation

astonishment

are

found

at the actions of

excellent.

Khotan.

They

And

does

Mr.

also present.

course, our passports appear to be absolutely correct.

letters of

one of

The

they express

will immediately

send a telegram to the Governor-General about the return of

our arms.

During the day we saw the Swedish missionary, [213]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Torquist, and

many

inhabitants of the local colony.

to notice that for a long time

curious

It is

now, the Governor-General has

attempted to leave Urumchi with his pillaged goods.

But the

neighboring province does not permit him to pass without the

payment

many

of a tribute of

vans, comprising several confiscated.

Now

to foreign banks.

the Titai

and

wagons with

the “dignitary”

One

Thus, one of

millions.

is

silver,

has already been

trying to transfer his capital

also should note that after the

his son, in

his cara-

murder of

Kashgar, their families suffered com-

The earrings were ripped out of They brought a photo of the crucified

plete robbery.

the ears of the

son’s wife.

Titai.

look upon this brutality committed without

thought of responsibility!

from Aksu

The

is

trial

Friends,

and without

Incidentally, they say that the Taotai

already collecting soldiers to proceed to Khotan.

pillaged goods

do not

lie

in the

same place

for long.

February 16th

The

Taotai arrived.

Boring conversations about the cult of

ancestors, about astrology, about the weather.

photographs of

my

paintings.

He

said that

He

looked

he had already

graphed to Urumchi about permission for us to proceed. permissions for each step recall the most brutal times and

bored by

it,

to the last degree.

Even

to

we again observed the local types. faces. Many more beggars and cripples some gold.

The Kirghiz

Hindus and Turki accept

are bringing it

These

we

are

Passing through the

These are very cruel

city

rupees.

tele-

complain about the rude-

ness of the officials, one needs permission.

must exchange the remaining

the

at

than in Yarkand.

We it

We

are advised to take

from the mountains.

gladly.

February ijth

The day tarantas.

A

for

new

the exchange driver

of

money.

The

selection

—a Cossack refugee from Orenburg. [214]

of a

An

TAKLA MAKAN— KARASH AHR instructive scene in the bazaar.

A

mullah with

The

the people to the mosque.

The enthusiasm

They

in the side-streets.

mosques

—are visited

more

expect

and many are hurrying

difficulty

say that Medresse

Even

rarely.

is

whip

lashes of the

backs, the shoulders, the faces.

evoked with

whip

a

chasing

strike the

for prayer

is

to hide themselves

— the

schools at the

in the wilderness, the people

and more profound forms of knowledge.

refined

•

•

•

•

•

February 18th

Not

from the

far

Of

rock, three windows.

LeCoq and

explored by

remnants of

found

The

Stein.

From below one

can distinguish

of especial note have been

objects

Death from

a dwelling place for her in the rock, but her destiny

on

wanted

and

a rope

in

it

was

a scorpion’s sting

In order to save her the king constructed

predicted for her.

princess

The

people adorn these caves with a legend:

old king had a daughter.

The

high in the

see,

course, these are the Buddhist caves,

No

frescoes.

there.

one can

village Artish,

a

to taste

some

was

fulfilled.

She drew up a basket

grapes.

venomous scorpion was hiding.

Fifteen miles eastward, in the middle of the cemetery, the

tomb

Mary

of

the mother of Issa

Why,

of the legend are slipping away.

nobody can

tell.

It is

pointed out.

is

just

same concerning

the

Mary

The in

details

Kashgar,

Are

Issa in Srinagar.

Nestorianism and Manicheism here

there not

some

Along whip in

the bazaar, Kadi, the judge, passes pompously, with a his

traces of

hand.

He

is

going

Of

to catch gamblers.

?

course,

the groups of gamblers quickly disperse and after the passing

of the “guard” they at once collect again. is

despoiling the population.

Opposite the entrance sweets.

On

of the gods.

one

who

is

the wall

Who

is

awaited.

We

Like opium, gambling

enter

with

New

a Chinese

dwelling.

Year’s offerings and

is

an

is

a vividly colored picture of the “ruler”

it?

altar

It is

Each

the

in his

[215]

same Gessar;

own way.

it

The

the

same

New

Year

is

ALTAI-HIMALAYA is

welcomed

precisely

almost Moslem,

is

we

also, life

see

Kuan

is

new and

And

ages). less

is

and

is

one more image the “Ruler

There are only two

intricate.

The

his guardian.

simple work, but very decorative.

not performed.

There,

belief.

“Ruler,” sitting at

In the forehead

The

a precious stone like a red star.

yard of a small temple. is

Kashgar which

in

watching the flame of a red candle.

of the “Ruler,” of

all

—The “Ruler”

the table,

Even

image.

Yin, the Mother of the World, and Man-long-

This image

of Gods.”

his

hidden the Far Eastern

is

(the synthesis of

figures

with

The temple

We

went

itself is closed.

Opposite the entrance

picture

is

into the

The

service

a stage for the Chinese

is

theater.

The

setting sun

immovable and

city,

Tumen

narrow ridge you go toward the sandy

side a

The

slopes. first

flooding the banks of

is

sight of

Along-

daria.

slopes.

Like a dead

breathless, stand the clay walls above these

trees are

naked.

what one may

One can

call a

see very far.

Central Asiatic

This

city.

is

the

And

not

under ill-smelling sheds of the narrow bazaars; not by the faces of lepers; but in the golden rays of the sun

and

movability of the walls you realize that Kashgar

in the imis

verily

an

old place.

February igth

Many

subterranean waters are in Kashgar.

the rivers

what

and the

like malaria.

rice fields gives a special

The

flooding of

kind of fever some-

There are widely varying symptoms: aching

of joints; sleepiness, pain in the extremities. It is

not easy to receive

money on checks from China.

were awaiting us since November, but

now

it is

Taels

already the end

of February and the post office delays handing over the money.

The money may, of They tell us that one

course, have been given out

of the local

ambans

on percentage.

refused, for a long time,

to transfer the collected taxes to the Governor-General, because

[216]

TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR they were loaned out on percentage for the enrichment of the

Amban. They brought photographs rows of people with chopped cut tendons.

The

on time “to

whom

murdered

the

with

stars

of the victims “of justice”:

off fingers or soles of the feet

majority of them were unable or could not pay

Here

was necessary.”

are also photographs of

two ribbons

Titai in his full “glory” with

and with widespread

Here

legs.

crossed,

are also photographs

of the developments

of oil-wells, started by the Titai;

of the wives of Titai

and other

Old

local officials.

from America from October 30th through Peking.

months and

a half to reach us this

Apparently to find horses here

Yarkand.

little

hospital

is

better

group

letters It

came

took three

way.

is

still

more

At Dr. Yalovenko’s, we found

His

for us.

with

all

difficult

than in

drugs necessary

equipped than the one of the

Swedish Mission.

We

drink tea

Near the

stupa. cross

a

at the Gillans’;

we go with them

river the road starts to

to inspect a

become muddy.

narrow bridge and ascend amidst the

fantastic

We sand

formations created by water and earthquake.

Of course, here was the most ancient part of Kashgar; here may be found Buddhist traces. The stupa itself has become a formless mass and only the remnants of the bricks lying at the

bottom, reveal the construction.

Its

than the great stupa in Sarnath.

In reality there remains only

size

is

great; not smaller

the base, and the whole top cupola has disappeared. cult

among sand

masked ruins

slopes to distinguish ruins.

are buried

It is

How many

underneath the currents of

of such

rivers

under the sloping Kurgans, under the typical Asiatic cover. It

becomes cold toward evening.

And,

diffi-

and .

.

.

purple-silhouetted,

stands Kashgar with a Chinese temple on the wall of the city.

The as is

it

silhouette

is

not devoid of calmness and grandeur but this

is,

were, a false grandeur, because the mass of the silhouette

transformed into the fragility of clay and sand buildings.

[217]

Late

ALTAI-HIMALAYA George Chu, the Chinese

in the evening,

secretary of the British

Consul, arrives with the good news that a telegram from the Tu-t’u of

But

Urumchi has come, and

that

we

are permitted to leave.

Kashgar Taotai and the

in spite of the request of the

Consul, our two guns and three revolvers are

permission to paint

and Taotai

Chu

is

says:

teacher in Peking and

good message

to

and the

sealed

not even mentioned, although the Consul

distinctly asked about

smilingly

left

British

in the telegrams.

English

learned

“I I

it

have been glad to

Mr. George

from an American help and to bring a

an American Expedition.”

February 20th

We

prepare the caravan in a hurry, in order to leave more

quickly before the beginning of the spring thaw and before the flooding of the 1,800 miles.

river.

The

is

a big

Urumchi

to

get horses.

It is difficult to

Fergan where there

sent to

journey

good

a

is

All the best horses are

demand

for horses

from

Russia.

We mad

have

to discharge Ts’ai

Han Chen;

Musu; he

yesterday and beat the Ladaki

We

smoking.

go

to express

help in sending telegrams.

he became completely is

a victim to

opium

our gratitude to Mr. Gillan for his

I tell

him how

agreeable

to find

it is

such cultural regard for the tasks of our Expedition.

I

regret

that in spite of his representation neither the

arms nor the per-

him

to give us the text

mission to sketch have been given.

I

ask

of the telegrams that he sent, for inclusion in our diary.

exchange of rupees which rose in value to the

some

talk about the

sars.

There are rumors about the exchange of the current

a

new

Taoists

it

sars for

Nobody knows anything. Just as the missionary “The Chinese are born Confucians. They live as

currency.

Torquist says:

So

Then

and die Buddhists.”

much

is

We

should like to see real Chinese.

being spoken about the intensive work in Canton.

possible that there they

do not know about the dark [218

J

life

Is

of

— TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR Chinese Turkestan?

Is it

possible that they

one robber usurps the place of another robber and not for the people’s welfare, not for

motives and personal enrichment?

“power”

— the

rich beks

— are

him

crucifies

but for personal

justice,

And

how

do not know

helpers

the

the

of

treading with whips on the bent

backs of the poor. •

•

•

•

•

February 21st All the good horses have been

impossible to find horses.

It is

Now

dispatched to Andijan to transport goods from abroad. they are

demanding one

precedented.

We

Urumchi we

will

is

1,800 miles.

Outside the Gissarlik

—a

We

city,

to

is

go

fifty-five

and

this

near the horse-market, is

is

cupola of a mazar, one’s moles

means

is

un-

that to It

will soon begin.

an interesting mazar,

said to belong to

a belief that if

price

days instead of forty.

must hurry because the thaw

mazar which

There

count.

will have to take arbas,

have

The

day for horses.

sar a

some Mongolian

one throws a piece of clay

at the

fall off.

February 2 3rd not easy to receive

It is

Since

November, the post

Mexican

dollars.

money through office

It is really

the Chinese post

has not been able to collect 1,600

ridiculous

when one knows

local general,

by commission of the Governor-General

ferring 10,000

pounds of “personal savings” through

We

went

to the Taotai to talk about our

mission to sketch.

office.

The Taotai came

that the is

trans-

here.

arms and the per-

to a resolution,

“Try

to

Our arms became rusted from dampness. When we pointed it out, we were told by the interpreter of the Consulate, “Do not make too much fuss about it.” Again we felt ourselves in a country not of paint and

justice,

that

if

if

the police prohibit

it,

then stop.”

but in a country of personal license.

Tu

We

were

also told

T’u (the Governor-General) will find us worthy then

[219]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA he will permit us our arms and the indifference is

is

needed

interesting to

possibility of

work.

Colossal

to accept seriously all these sentences.

know by what means and with what

It

apparatus

the Governor-General will investigate our “worthiness,” for the

work and cials is

for the arms.

.

.

evident to us without any special apparatus.

these depths of ignorance? that

But the “worthiness” of similar

.

we

To

cap the climax

As

out the revolvers.

February

usual, the visit

tales

sits

a warrior.

sits

nag from

a village.

A

Such hypocrisy!

cannon

When

drawn by two the

On

muzzle of the cannon

“An army” which went

if

horses.

the horses stop, they add one

more

forth 20,000 strong,

reached the battleground about

sars,

number. They count the Therefore,

is

On

a soldier.

an expense of 6,000,000

of caps.

ended with assurances that

about the movements of the Chinese army of Sin-

each one of them

2,000 in

stipulated

2 4th

kiang are interesting.

at

was

That means, we should not take

they had helped us very much.

also

Whence come

should not remove from the case containing the arms,

any more than were permitted.

The

it

offi-

there are

army by the number not enough “warriors” in the

size of the

The calculation of cavalry is by men and horses, or doubly. Nowhere is this forgotten province written about as it actually is. Unknowingly some of the travelers don a dress suit, when they visit the Taotai, but it is time to tell what really exists. It is time to speak simply, in the name of human dignity. One may consider “seriously” the surviving carts,

they put out caps on sticks.

customs of the inhabitants of the Solomon Islands, but a king-

dom

with 400,000,000 people cannot be looked upon in our times

from the point of view of ethnographical in every

way

country out of

and how

to help the true its

curiosities.

One ought

workers of China to bring the

tragi-comical situation.

We

do not know what

will be our further path, but the observations of the [

220

]

TAKLA MAKAN— KARASH AHR unembellished

quered

in

Sinkiang was con-

of Sinkiang appall us.

life

The

time by Mongols, Arabs, Chinese, Tibetans.

its

backs of the Sarts endured everything and they brought their salaams. •

m

m

•

•

February 25th If

you have

a

Chinese postal money-order,

that as yet

you have the money.

check

1,600

for

Mexican

does not

it

mean

China cannot even redeem

Whereas the

dollars.

local

a

bank

Friends, do not use

through Tashkent pays you immediately.

The letters are opened, many things do you; and money is not delivered to you. Again, one

the Chinese mail.

not

reach

has

to transport one’s consciousness to the

Solomon

Islands

and then

one can understand better the actions of the Sinkiang company.

And

here again the British Consul and his secretary, Chu,

must take

steps for us.

we

special favor,

We the

Washington or

Chu

which

our hope that

We

Paris Embassies.

Major and Mrs. Gillan.

We

to their personal influence, as a

finally receive that

express to Mr.

Khotan.

Thanks

is

common

one’s

we

will

right.

meet him

in

exchange greetings with

Truly, they have helped us to leave

ask each other where

we

shall

meet again.

February 2 6th

We

left.

In the

morning

the Consul with his wife

came

to say

good-by; the Secretary of the Consulate, Chu, the Director of the Bank,

We

Anokhin; Dr. Yalovenko; the family of

said good-by.

again?

We

We

sat for a while.

pass through the

the sandy gray road.

At the

pools, rice fields, fever-beds. lakes.

A

not long.

Kashgar bazaars. the

left,

At

milky spring mist

Toward

Where

shall

We

overhanging.

three o’clock

we

Yamdom. [221

]

we meet

go through

Kashgar River glows blue;

the right are villages,

is

Krijhoffs.

The

and muddy crossing

is

stopped in a small village,

ALTAI-HIMALAYA We and

Han

have parted with Ts’ai

led

women away from

remember and he

two

his

down.

fell

the bazaars

The

stories:

He smoked opium

Chen.

and beat the

horse under

servants.

him was

I

frightened

For that he broke the horse’s leg with a

An

stone.

Another

hand.

Here the vengeance was

story:

came down and scratched

eagle

meat

subtle; a piece of

with gunpowder was put out on a long wick.

The

his

stuffed

eagle seized

the meat and exploded.

The man who goes ahead as the scout is called Dorogha here. Toward evening it gets cold. There is no snow. The mountains are not seen.

February 27th

A

Salt marshes, bushes, willows, small villages.

By

ing to Faizabad.

half-past one,

we

are already at the

Nevertheless, in the book of routes, the

Faizabad

is

Even

divided into three days.

one can reach

it

sooner.

How

at a

thoroughly

untrue “facts” are lying on the shelves of

much

site.

way from Kashgar

to

slow walking pace

all

the books with

information about the “facts” must be inspected.

too

short cross-

libraries

Too many and there

is

reverence attached to the printed word, without any

revaluation.

Anew, anew, anew

— through new consciousness

and new con-

tainment.

And some

people respect

money

as such!

Just

now wooden

chips were brought to us with inscribed signs, and the people assure us that this it

is

real

money: And the

Everywhere

actively occupied

in

in the bazaars are

gambling.

I

a furious exclamation: “I

chips.”

According

aggerated.

The

to the local

chip

is

best

money, because

This authority apparently stands

issued by the gamblers.

in high esteem.

bank

is

groups of

remember hearing

in

men some

do not pay you with wooden

customs

this

remark was not ex-

brown, three-and-a-half inches long, and [

222

]

TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR on

inscribed by hand, are Chinese signs.

it,

money is

because

very simple here.

refuses to

The redemption of these signs After the sign is worn out the government at the treasury, and the last owner of such

does not

it

redeem

it

tear.

a symbol liquidated the State debt. of our further

had

to

investigated the sites that these are not

We

sometimes have to

book of

stretches, otherwise

They sent us two send them back.

in fifty days.

We

We

encampments and we found

correctly given in the

combine two

People love this

routes.

will not reach

Urumchi even

soldiers as escorts

— true bandits.

we

February 2 8th

The whole

night,

they were singing in

till

all

four o’clock, under the full green moon,

around

in the different \ishla\s

honor of the month of Barat.

lowed by

The

distance, the

They sang

wildly, but mel-

notes sometimes resounded beautifully.

singing was not by Sarts, but by Torguts.

How

did Torguts

come

to

Moslem Faizabad?

How Of

strange!

course these

former wars. Until now, they have retained their

are prisoners of

customs of singing their resonant songs under the

Analyzing the

probably

nationalities,

full

moon.

you can sometimes distinguish them

by the remnants of their garments, sometimes by the language

and sometimes by the ancient sacred chants. the melodies of their native land ring out.

heart readily responds to this

call.

It is

During the nights

And somehow

the

instructive to follow the

combinations of peoples covered by the sands of the deserts.

We

rose early, at five o’clock, because -he road

p’o-t’ai.

It

means

a

about sixty miles. sand, bar\hans.

hundred and dust

Ci.'nese lee,

long

—fifteen

which means

marshes, greenish-gray; then dead

First, salt

The

fifty

is

is

opaque; the thin brush has been

uprooted for fuel and because of

this the entire desert

is

being

completely devastated, while two stops away from Kashgar are

wonderful coal and

oil deposits.

People themselves through their

[223]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA ignorance deplete their

and under the sun,

lying;

difficult to

move

Kara julgun,

Near

soil. it

The caravan There

drink tea out of the local \ungan.

The

March It

is

it

is

called

is

We

late.

not enough black

ist

we went

har\hans are ently there

away

is

still

sketches are multiplying.

Almost the

seems to be the most desolate crossing.

time

as

encampment

of the

site

a small gray village.

paint to depict this teapot.

is

already burning hot and

is

The

in furs.

the small rivers ice

along the

filled

was

with gigantic old stumps and

a big forest here but

The

the wood.

though along

a gnarled cemetery.

we

it

and one proceeds

scanty brush cannot gray.

Gray

also are

On

account

which have begun.

making twelve

are

is

Appar-

roots.

people have carried

The

Everything

the pools and the spring floods of these floods

now

sands have scattered

withstand the sand burans.

All the

of old destroyed forests.

sites

p’o-t’ai,

instead of eight.

Ditches, stumps, sand slopes; the biggest Chinese road

parable to a small

During the day we meet

trail.

entire

a

com-

is

few

sparse

caravans, but they, of course, cannot comprise the nerve of true

commerce.

The gray linger,

Everything

is

dead.

On

village Urdaklik.

though they cannot

dusty horizon.

And

see

these

flat

roofs silent figures

anything from their roof but the

people have no outlook or hope.

During the night the

Occasional travelers pass by them. a caravan will suddenly flare up. silence.

the

And

fire

of

again the same oppressive

Geese and ducks are flying toward the spring floods

but here only the crows and rooks are keeping house. of a plow,

some wooden implement of the stone

possible that the beks

and Chinese ambans succeed

Instead

age.

Is

it

in enrich-

ing themselves at the expense of these people also?

Our Chinese

escort has

no

luck.

In three days, three

[224]

warriors”

— TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR managed a

down from

to fall

whole regiment of such It is

What

their horses.

tseri\s, as

armies the cannons are

on the backs of people, and the enemies

shoot in the air and at night

there were

they are called here?

related that in certain Chinese

carried

if

daytime

in the

together at their gambling.

sit

March 2nd Turkestan

Chinese

been

has

logical standpoint; the ancient conquest

present consciousness of the country.

we cannot

forgotten by destiny. of the Tokhar,

It is

archaeo-

and the change of

ruler-

Yet, in the progress of the

cover with silence this vast country

very instructive to follow the remnants

Uigur and Mongol constructions, but

and astonishing

instructive

the

But nothing has been related of the

ship have been recounted.

world’s evolution

from

described

of the country has turned:

also very

it is

what the consciousness

to see into

Again the same sandy gray hope-

lessness.

The buran to speak

gach

—

lasts

more

trees

We

the entire day.

go beside “the

The

correctly, the forest-cemetery.

— are

sticking

Instead of the sun there

is

out,

surviving \ar-

brushy

crooked,

How

a silvery circle.

forest”

and

clearly

horny.

one

sees

which impelled the great migrators and conquerors toward the west and south. Imagining a great migration, do

the reason

not picture is

drowned

shoes or hoofs

feet,

— everything

up

to the waistline

in a thick dusty cloud.

We overtake an old man. He complaining about something. We understand that somebody has broken his shoulder and that is

they have driven

Karakorum

away

heights, they are

more

ethical.

meet three caravans of donkeys and half in

Chuga.

that this

is

We

Of

sixteen of his horses.

a

covered fourteen-and-a-half

the greatest Chinese road?

be called a power which keeps

its

course on the

During the day we

dozen

p’o-t’ai.

And

We

carts. Is

it

stop

possible

can a government

chief artery in such condition

[225]

?

ALTAI-HIMALAYA One

has to cry out about

impeding E.

I.

March

culture.

caught cold.

yd

It is especially

travel

about every ignorant deed

as

this,

is

absurd to realize that a whole day of exhausting

equal to two hours’ ride by automobile or to an hour

The

by aeroplane.

roads here could be utilized easily for auto-

mobiles and one would not even have to build aerodromes.

Per-

haps nothing would so awaken the people’s consciousness

as a

bird with a message of good cheer and with necessary sup-

steel plies.

Through

these aisles, with their

files

and over-

of dusty

loaded donkeys, would be opened a crevice of reason.

Sir

Aurel

Stein expresses in his books the fear lest the primitiveness of this

country be disturbed by the building of railroads and other dences of civilization.

evi-

always have been against uncultural

I

evidences of civilization, but there are

moments

of such paralysis

of a country that one needs every supermeasure of enlightenment.

But the Buddhist knows the reason of the apathy of the country: In the Books of Kanjur the teaching of

it is

said that

Buddha, the

trees

would droop and welfare would

We

make our way

We

marshes.

first

if

the country should reject

would wither and

disappear.

along the so-called “forest,” then

get into the flood of

Yarkand darya;

reach the clay walls and towers of Maral-bashi. at these walls

with a cannon

long bazaar of Maral-bashi bazaars, or equal to

all

The Amban

the city.

our

name

will not

go

Among

omitted.

is

is

dirtier

We

salt

finally,

Do

we

not shoot

— too much dust will remain!

others.

The

and darker than the other halt in a

garden far behind

has sent to inquire our names.

that in the order of the

the grass

It

appears

Kashgar Taotai regarding our passage

No, with Chinese conduct of

affairs

you

far!

the sars

which were given [226]

to us

with such

difficulty in

TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR Kashgar,

many

There should be ten

are valueless.

them, but often the tenth, the middle

money

the

which you

is

letter, is

torn out and then

Carefully examine

no longer accepted.

on

letters

all

money

whether from the bazaar or from the governor’s

receive

yamen. George remembers that Prjevalsky was the Tun-huang, but afterwards the honor of claimed by other

As

scientists.

first

to speak about

this

discovery

was

early as the Seventies, Prjevalsky

spoke about these remarkable cave temples.

Near Maral-bashi

times one finds poisonous

A

new

if

lakes.

we

and, according to the

will ask him.

command

He

Amban

It is

insolent

and absurd.

How

to tell

him

that

and the

we do

late

hour

to

can

command

we

question

of the Gover-

Again the people

“The Amban does not know any customs.” spite of fatigue

not need soldiers

of the Governor-General they are

about the fulfillment of the

nor-General?

informs us that he will

we do

But

guarding our confiscated and sealed arms. the

But some-

Fish abound.

fish.

from the Amban.

insolence

send us soldiers

few

are a

Sung had

bring the

Amban

to

say:

go

in

to reason,

not need the soldiers but they are needed

by the order of the Governor-General.

March 4th They send new simply like

soldiers.

insects.

he himself turned

ment

to flight thirty tserikj

of tserikj surrendered to

all this is

We

We

They do not even look like people, remembered the stories of M.; how and how

two gunners.

a

whole

regi-

Yes, apparently

not exaggerated.

first

went by a dismal

plain.

Soon, at the right, against

the yellow sky, appeared the opal silhouette of the mountains.

Welcome, beloved mountains! Suleiman lake

relates,

“A

was

giant

was too big and with

his

living here.

He saw

that the

sword he chopped the slopes from

[227]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA the neighboring mountains

mountain

and threw them

this

a beautiful garden and holy people live there but

is

nobody can enter without

their permission.

have tried

Sarts

And

go there but nobody has ever come back.”

to

Behind

here.

Suleiman

pointed to the southeast.

Soon an unpleasant experience gallop to meet us and

We

the road.

had

to

warn make

is

in store for us.

us that water has

Some

begun

people

to overflow

One

a detour of twenty miles.

also

has to place this against the account of our arrest and detention

We

Khotan.

in

time for

lost the best

Now we

travel.

will be

delayed everywhere by floods.

Another

“Under Urumchi

tale:

also live holy people.

asked the to return

home, and the holy

the

wooden

of

shall

I

chips.

man

gave the

Kalmuck

?’

He

a lapful

thought,

took them and threw

Where

them out

Only two chips remained caught, and when he

into the woods. lo!

mountain and there

The Kalmuck took them and

carry these rarities

came home,

a steep

Once a Kalmuck wounded a mountain the Kalmuck to a holy man. The man remain with them but the Kalmuck asked

ram led Kalmuck to

ram and

is

And

gold hung to his garments.

so the

Kalmuck

lost.”

We ous

are going further, near gray sandy

strata.

giant holy his

We man.

pass an old tomb.

They

mountains with vigor-

Then we

pass a

mazar of a

say that even the trails of the hoofs of

horses have remained on the mountain.

The mountains

become more beautful and merge into the romantic silhouette of Bible lore. Not far from here is an ancient site, Haivar. Near the road are the remains of the Chinese fortress, Angelik.

Then,

again, sands and floods.

Another ever enters

tale: it

is

heaps of gold. itself,

“Not

far

lost in If

from Angelik

wonder

is

at the rich

an old house.

adornments and the

one takes a heap of gold the door

and he cannot

leave.

And [228]

until

Who-

closes

by

he returns the gold, to

TAKLA MAK AN — KARASHAHR the very last grain, so long the door will remain unopened. similar place

one can even

a city,

Kucha

in

see

the

a structure like

smoke but only on Fridays can

But one cannot carry out gold from

one enter.

And

There stands

near Uch-Turfan.

is

A

this site either.

they found an underground opening like a whole

They brought thousands of wagons with The stones are to be stones to fill it in but they could not. The tomb of a saint was also found there. seen even now.

subterranean passage.

—

Thirty-nine doors were open into

And

fortieth.

so they covered

it

but they could not open the

The

again.”

it

remember

people

about the predicted beautiful gardens and about foreign

also

gold. It

and

becomes dark. stars,

We

come

to the village

some one was praying, by the Is it

If

your desire

is

by the Elder.

this

is

our guard.

•

•

to give a gift to these barefooted night

.

.

of the

and shallow

to

is

A

Yaka Khuduk. burnt

There are many boar.

river banks.

telegraph wire.

This

is

the

telegram from

New

York, there was a

letters

and only the one

whom

and about what?

last

Often

same

we

line

think that

code or a mischievous joke, where only the is

travel

which In the

series of unintelligible

word “Advise” was

One may

Again

Boar-weed

forest.

transmits telegrams in an absolutely unintelligible shape. last

away

.

tedious crossings

a single

guards

All that you give will be taken

in vain.

unbearable dust; hidden ditches.

under

—

$th

you want

One

•

•

For what?

stands the chalice of Orion.

the bonfire barefooted youths are lying •

March

Bonfires

for a long, long time,

light of a bonfire.

High

not for enlightenment?

Around

And

and dreams of the people.

Tumshuk.

last

it

legible. is

To

a very sly

provocative

word

comprehensible.

Another

tale:

“In Kashgar recently lived a holy man.

[229]

He

ALTAI-HIMALAYA when

heard took

six

people in the holy place were praying, although

months

There

to reach that place.

is

it

such an holy place

behind the mountains.

In the district of Orenburg also there

He

heard about the present and the future,

man.

lived such a

and about the war and about famine.

In two hundred years

the Sarts expect a great saint, and perhaps earlier.”

We wind

and whirls

rises

March It is

tall

Sometimes a

Here are small

cruel pillars of sand.

naked bushes and sandy

clay huts,

a

on the dusty bank of Yarkand darya.

stop

river banks.

6th

On

very simple to give an idea of our passage of to-day! a

good

bit of

wool and

stick

in

round dish place

pieces of

crawl over

bumpy

this

gray dust; throw in a few gray

fragments of matches.

and for realism, blow

plain,

Let ants in order to

it

create pillars of dust.

And

so

we

creep along.

there the water

is

bitter so

We

we had

spend the night in a \ishla\ in to

its

expected to stay in Chulan, but

make

to

New

a detour in order to

At

Chulan.

gray clay huts a light silhouette of mountains

pectedly

—the

thresholds of T’ian Shan.

E.

I.’s

the approach

seen unex-

is

cold

is

tor-

still

turing her.

Suleiman

relates

how now

dealing in sausage casings; one

can (Brenner).

The

in

two firms

country are

this

German

(Faust) and one Ameri-

prices of casings

have risen so unprece-

dentedly that the works have become unprofitable. strange to

know

that the casings of the sausages in

The same

markets come from Khotan and Aksu. in the cotton trade.

ferent

unmatched

varieties

and

With

in this silk,

way

to a chosen sample.

[230]

very

American

mix

similar difficulties occur.

It

is

dif-

are ruining the value

impossible to obtain the delivery of an

quality equal

is

obstacles occur

In order to raise the prices they

of the entire product. is

It

entire

It

order of a

impossible to obtain

TAKLA MAKAN— KARASH A HR All this reduces the industry to

material of a chosen shade.

medieval conditions.

The melons and

the raisins are of

good

quality.

The amber sun

melts into the dusk of the horizon.

Somewhere some one

distances the eyes of the bonfires light up.

and weaving the design of rumors.

sitting

is

The

songs thunder out.

March

noisy

Tamasha

is

In the dusk the

held.

yth

appears that the water in old Chulan

It

In the

New

better than in

is

very good, even

New

But the inhabitants of

Chulan.

Chulan

decided to lure the passers-by and threw dead mules and dogs

The caravan

into the lake of old Chulan.

country and

We

went

Khuduk,

this case of

is

on the

little village.

It

seems incredible that

on the greatest road of China.

left stretches a

Chutu

All along are

mass of mountains and the pearly

adorn the horizon.

Another Solomon.

mon

quite typical.

is

thirteen p’o-t’ai, as far as the small habitation of

this little station

foothills

the nerve of the

luring the passers-by

a battered-down

sands, but

is

“Near the

tale:

city

Osch

There even remain the

there

little

is still

a

Mountain

of

impressions where Solo-

prayed on his knees.”

We

recall

how

the British Consul in Kashgar notified us that

George’s friend Allen Priest was in

Urumchi

as late as

November.

we met Priest on the threshold of the Vatican in Rome. And now we find him on the Asiatic roads — an active sensitive man. The British Consul says that he received the permission to go from Siberia to Peking. Will we still find him

After Boston

in

Urumchi?

meet anywhere It is

There are people with

whom

—where

our dear Americans?

long since

we

shall

we meet

is

agreeable to

have seen so noble a sunset with such broad

The golden

gradations of opal purple hues. dulled, lingered

it

sun,

somewhat

long on the crags of the far-off mountains.

[231

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA And

it

went leaving a

From E.

is

In the outskirts on the plain are our tents.

silent.

down.

above, Orion peers

I.

The

To-day there are no songs.

the limits of this country. village

These mountains mark

soft fiery pillar.

has almost recovered.

March 8th

We

approach Ujkul,

first

by sands; afterward two

altogether ten

habitations; fields;

They

p’o-t’ai.

p’o-t’ai of

start

to sow.

The plow is of the stone age. Two oxen drag one horny wooden device. Can one plow deeply with such utensil? The day is springlike. A fresh wind and the warmth They

are plowing.

Ujkul

of the sun. a

few occurrences

all

the morning,

fell

at three,

fell

on

Thereupon

him.

down and

had hidden

a

A

it

horse

he died.

bad

fell; his

occurrence.

head swelled

In the mafa of the Gegen,

We

ridge.

feared

was discovered

the entire load

this

For a day there are

a long dusty village.

in the caravan!

and

the middle horse raise

is

fell out.

could not

that yesterday a cart

And

When we

we

the guarding tseri\

reprimanded him he

idiotically smiled.

The

cool evening approaches;

the Chinese language.

speak about the decline of

There are 40,000 signs

one of them expresses the sign

we

letter

R.

which approximately expressed

collected, but not

In olden times there was a this letter,

but afterward

disappeared out of the 8,000 signs used in daily oneself

why

One

dictionaries preserve 32,000 unnecessary signs?

these unnecessary tatters

evolution.

life.

And

is

it

asks

In

seen the complete decline of Chinese

“Do

not go

“Can one expect

justice

as a result the local people

into this yard; there are Chinese!” or

whisper:

from Chinese?”

And how many young them

people are innocently dragging after

the results of the ignorance

and grandfathers.

How

and

cruelty of their fathers

they must hasten to get rid of such an

[232]

— TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR many thousands

If all these

inheritance!

of signs have led

toward ignorance, one should quickly

Valiantly and severely one has

these skeletons of conventions.

Otherwise,

to cut out the decay of survivals.

nations vanished so often

Matter less

is

weaving

thread from

keep

power departs one

how

it

the water

When

hand?

would be

possi-

for the people immediately.

And

to lay railroad lines

is

along the plains here!

During the whole week

especially bad.

—one cannot drink

the head of a

the criminal

and the

was yellowish brown, and to-day

ill-smelling

“Great

?

did Confucius have to

will have to provide railroads

To-day the water

draw

Why

cosmic web.”

growth and exchange

easy

have entire

history of the earth

traveling cart always at

his

bility of

from the

why

design and mercilessly casts out each use-

its

its

oneself

liberate

them from

it.

it is

You may

Dungan from

soapy gray and

expect

some one

out the well in a pail.

to

This

has already happened!

March

gth

From Ujkul we go Yakub-bek,

who

from Chinese with

many

to

Aksu, the

half a century ago tried to liberate Turkestan

but could not find

rule,

ditches.

The

river

though

as

Gray sky and

we remember

a yellow

We offer

recall

this

plowed

—

it

how

all

own

is

dank

means white water

bridges, as everywhere, are is

field.

the chief road of China!

We

remember America;

Grand Canyon, Colo-

Again we mentally urge our friends

—to know better

Americans a

full of its

And

The road

allies.

the beauties of Santa Fe, the

rado and Arizona.

Americans

alive.

Aksu

The

has already started to overflow.

dancing

capital of the unsuccessful

—the

the beauties of their superb country.

types of ungifted Jean Cocteaux in special dish of nonsense.

.

.

.

Europe

But America

is

possibilities.

Imperceptibly

we approach

the borders of Aksu.

[233]

The same

ALTAI-HIMALAYA little

and

clay houses

one on the Chinese

muddy

from here

We

Kalmucks.

stop

Andijan Aksakal.

To-day the mafa\esh

new

the

where

the Colonel.

city,

The

cities.

little drier,

Amban and

in

old

live the

Five days

Iliisk district of

the

garden of the

in the

dusty.

It is

first

until

a

Muzart Pass toward the

the

is

two

always,

The new,

place.

Taotai,

officials,

As

stalls.

bloodshed occurred.

Two

he bled and almost took out

tramps beat our Screaming.

his eye.

The tramps were caught. They bound them and took them to the Amban. And our revolvers are sealed, because the Noise.

Governor-General (that

is

the Tu-t’u) does not trust our Ameri-

The Governor

can papers of recommendation. not

know

his province;

he

is

of course does

busy transferring his riches to

ferent banks through various fantastic ways: to get

out of this territory!

The

a long time.

perversion.

An

The Lama

local

bazaar

more quickly

begs us not to remain in notorious for

is

its

agreeable exception; he speaks English, a

personally Allan Priest

converse a long time.

(now

The Amban

Priest

is

of other

Bank and

in Peking).

and

him about

the

Khotan ignoramuses. He shrugs

says: “Probably

you are

in

We

begs us to remain for a day,

otherwise he cannot arrange for two horses until Kucha. tell

and

to visit us.

little bit

languages; he was employed in the Russian Asiatic

knows

Aksu

thievery

The Amban comes

getting dark.

It is

it

dif-

China for the

We

his shoulders

first

time.”

A

who is watching events and who knows the significance of many things. He will come for luncheon to-morrow. He is the first cultured Chinese we encountered here. He does not seem to have the aggressiveness of Chu in Kashgar. The Amban of Aksu is somewhat on the type of earnest Chinese students, whom one may meet in American sympathetic type of young

and Parisian

universities.

we had molded

official,

We

rejoice to

meet

this type

because

our understanding of contemporary China ac-

[234]

TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR cording to his type and not according to the buffalos.

what

happen

will

further. •

March

•

•

•

•

10th

we heard

Early in the morning

dawn on is

Let us see

at

the passes did the Ladaki sing their prayers; and so

Our two Ladaki

here.

Thus

familiar singing.

it

caravaneers are sitting under a tree

and are singing harmonious hymns

to

Tara and the Lord

Maitreya.

Pan

We

Amban, comes.

Tsi-lu, the

speak about Chinese prob-

lems, about religion, about the teachings of

very

much

about the

life

he cannot do anything he cannot

start

in

Aksu.

there.

He

life.

Being alone and a subordinate,

We

wished him success

The Amban brought two

issues of

papers of the ninth and sixteenth of January.

Chang Tso Lin government.

complains

dreams of leaving because

anything constructive.

in his intentions.

He

We

Chinese

read

how

has declared himself independent of the central

We

read also of the resignation of Feng. •

•

•

•

•

March nth The last Chinese in the caravan has exploded! It came out that Sung has spent each night in the bazaar playing cards. The amputated finger did not teach him a lesson. Of our Chinese, two turned out to be opium smokers, and two gamblers. And here the best of the Chinese

Aksu

—

is

whom we

anxious to leave this country and

do anything.

And who

will be the

met

—the

Amban

in

he cannot

feels that

one to undertake, courage-

ously and self-sacrificingly, to turn this dusty cemetery into a flourishing garden? there; but there

We

is

Silver

no

solicitous

go by a long path

First the clay walls of the

Then bur\hans and

and copper and

reeds.

to

and

oil

—

all

are

hand.

Karakhuduk (eighteen

new

We

coal

city.

march

[235]

Then

p’o-t’ai ).

the pearly desert.

until midnight.

We

stop

ALTAI-HIMALAYA at a

Chinese inn.

Another worry: the backs of the pack horses

are rotting because the caravaneers never

the luggage it

permeated with

is

remove the saddles; and

a repulsive odor.

will be necessary to regulate this caravan evil

;

In the future

horses,

mules and

camels are so burdened here that one cannot permit them to be

devoured

and

alive

by worms. Tibetans pity the horses. But Kashmiri

Sarts consign

March

them

to the

wanted

to attach an

we had

great noise

no

continues: To-day our famous escort

to eject the uninvited recruit.

nor habitations

blue cragged places one

The

hills.

may

—far

around us

lines are

silhouetted.

is

sunset

we approach

We

have no doubt that these it is.

Some

and the entrances

to

them

are crumbled.

ceilings

and the walls

Of

The

slope.

course

the

it is

Near

the

of

them

Moslems who have

ground

a little

below

deare

seen the remnants of ornaments, covered over with Turki in-

But the most enticing thing

scriptions.

neath the

floor.

It

means

mention of

the hollow sound be-

is

that below, in the buried part of the

rock, are also caves, not even filled in.

ties

At

In such

so

stroyed the images they hate. still

are

And

But three caves are on a low are pretty well gone.

There

Very high up on the sandy

are openings of old Buddhist caves.

are outlined very high

ice.

the desert, ending in

is

expect old monuments.

something

is still

have

The sun

simple and powerful.

a lonely langar, Toghrak-dang. rocks,

We

sand formations.

fantastic, ancient

already burning but in the shade there trees

With

arrested criminal to our caravan.

the entire day has been such a beautiful one.

been going through is

It is difficult to believe.

12th

The Sinkiang anecdote

And

worms.

this place in Stein.

We

It recalls to

do not remember any us the

of the fifth to the eighth centuries.

East.

view

The

Tokhar

antiqui-

caves face the

Before the eyes of the hermits spread the broad mountain

—a good and

beautiful place.

[236]

Under

the cave a mountain

CAVES

Series)

(Maitreya

SACRED

TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR murmurs

spring

—not a waterfall but just a light

thin spring runs through a

woman.

of the Sart

Among

here.

stream.

The

wooden

pail

draw

their water

many

pieces of basalt

course, beside the caves there

were stupas and

which were covered by the avalanche of

separate structures,

postman

Little bells are ringing; the

two

into the

So, also, did the hermits

the crumbled fragments

Of

glow darkly.

wooden trough

little

is

hurrying to pass us with

From Kashgar

sealed bags of mail.

rocks.

to

Urumchi

the mail

takes thirteen days. •

•

March

•

•

13th

The

children from the langar hasten to gather the papers

by the caravan.

The

box.

•

One

little girl

from

finds a colorful label

exultation of the possessor

is

unbounded.

not having colored postal cards to distribute.

If

vividly colored

joy and will

We like

little

The

pictures.

a

match

We

regret

you want

do

find a place in a child’s heart in the quickest way,

left

children will take

it

to

through

them with

remember.

We

bid farewell to the caves.

high waves with congealed

pass rich sand formations,

crests,

or like threatening out-

stretched fingers, or like towers with bridges, or like tents.

After

we descend again to the sands. Probably a buran from Takla Makan has swept past here. Everything is drowned the mountains

in clouds of thick dust.

langar.

we meet

We

Again some people

shall stop in

are quarreling noisily.

several droves of horses.

toward Andijan.

Kushtami

The breed

They go

of horses

to the is

not

in a dusty

On

our

way

Russian border fine.

We

are

nearing the horse country and the breed becomes inferior: the values and reputations have to be carefully examined.

apparent already in the jade, ing, in ceramics,

silk,

and many other

This was

horses; in the quality of singthings.

be afraid to examine traditions because

[237]

it is

And

one should not

time to transport one’s

— ALTAI-HIMALAYA from the

self

One can know

past to the future.

the past but one

has to direct one’s consciousness toward the future.

In the yard of the langar

Near the place

two

are

a

is

band of professional gamblers. Karakirghiz

tents of

Amban

Exactly in this place an escort given by the a traveler.

One

—notorious

once robbed

The

has to take special precautions.

did not send any guards.

we had

If

our

rifles

thieves.

village

everything would

be well, but the ceremony of the sealing of the arms was

openly in order that the servants and

One

road would know.

The

only guard

is

cannot rely upon the Chinese

•

prisoner

the knaves along the

It

•

•

•

•

expected, during the night an outrageous

appeared that in

The

was frenzied gambling.

of our refusal, the

spite

went along with our caravan.

During the night there

prisoner lost

much money. They

bound him. ... In

a

“honorary”

Quicker, quicker out of this region!

escort.

word, the Chinese have arranged for us an

After the buran, everything merges into mist. disappear.

They

Yellow

the poplars the buds swell.

But we are

We

snow.

there, near the rivers, lies late city of Bai.

The mountains

and occasional black oxen

fields

On

are sowing.

at the

standing in a field

should stop in the

terrified at the dirt of the

set

Bai

is

of

up the a

tents.

nephew

nephews and

suls.

made.

among It is

old tombs

is

mazars.

bazaar and

to all are given positions of

Amban

in

Ambans and Con-

To-day important decisions are

a communication. •

are

Apparently he has a collection

of the Tu-t’u.

•

We

In the darkness

interesting to note that the

The Sinkiang Company! There

plow.

But here and

decide to go five p’o-t’ai farther to the small langar.

we

escort.

our Tibetan Tumbal.

March 14th As one might have thing occurred.

all

made

•

[238]

•

•

— TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR March 15th

A

Three

p’o-t’ai

from

In these mountains

where we

Kizil,

The remnants

caves have been explored by Stein.

On

have been burned by the local iconoclasts.

huge herds of sheep and

The answer the horses

is

is

—these

We

We

to

March

find

going for

away

a

sale.

foreigners.

to find

work,

Andijan, to Kuldje,

which

attract the travel

a bazaar

and again they

Where from long way eighteen

well, Urus.”

Kucha we have

have to leave

To

here.

go through

“You go

are calling to us,

work

are three arteries

of the entire country.

is

and communications with

trade

because one cannot find any

To-morrow

way we

are they being driven?

time, hordes of Sarts are going

Chuguchak

of the paintings

the

and the wool, everything

bulls

The common dream

to

Where

goats.

shall stop, the

the same: to Andijan; the sheep, and the goats and

and the

At the same

The mountains

fields.

opal silhouette.

at the right are of a pale

are caves.

Yellow

Purple-gray sky.

dull day.

—

is

this?

p’o-t’ai.

at five o’clock.

16th

One

of the

most beautiful days.

freezing and then there

is

a hot sun.

Up

to seven o’clock

it

is

First a valiant desert, in

Afterwards a crossing brings the most unusual

pearly tones.

sand formations, like congealed ocean waves, like hundred-towered castles, like cathedrals, like yurtas variety.

far

In the Toghrak-dang langar

from there

Two

p’o-t’ai

are

two

away

caves,

it

in

an endless

feed the horses.

On

a slope rises a tower, Kizil

looking back

are the dark entrances of caves.

there over the sandy

we

all

mounds.

we

We

karga

notice that not far

dismount and hurry

These are the same celebrated

seems to me, some of which LeCoq reproduced.

as always, reproductions

Not

caves with traces of colored decoration.

from Kucha on

meaning the red raven.

—and

do not give even a [239]

But,

fraction of the real

ALTAI-HIMALAYA One must come to this amphitheater of former temples toward evening, when the impression is intensified by the quietude of nature. One has to imagine all these cavernimpression.

with darkened walls and

shrines, not

In the niches one has to imagine the figures

brilliantly frescoed.

One and

of the Blessed

which

of Bodhisattvas,

now

are

carried

In one cave remain the traces of images of thousands

away.

of Buddhas.

In another cave remains the place of repose of

Buddha and

a part of the ceiling.

covered with

Moslem

low

but vividly and

vaults,

spaces.

structures.

The bottoms of the walls are Under the floor one feels holrow of unopened subterranean

inscriptions.

Apparently there

One cannot

a

is

consider these excavations completed

Not

the hollowness of the hidden parts resounds so apparently.

Lamaism, but

Buddhism

of true

traces

Of

silence of these caves.

course

it

is

if

apparent in the

are

wonderful that examples

museums

of the frescoes have been scattered into the

of Europe.

But the walls of the caves remain denuded and the true image of the shrines has disappeared

We

are going to

—only the skeletons have remained. Why

seems cleaner than the others.

Mullah, forces them to clean the impossible to halt in the bazaar. the city but

has fallen?

how

A

There

town.

beg that they

can one reach

of him. riage.

this

is

a

may

And

The cook

Here we

course a

is

it

garden behind

which

friend, a Sart, leads us out of

The

stables.

Why ?

chicken-coop the

are in the capital of Tokhars.

Tokhar King, Pochan, was persecuted by

hostlers

In the house for

They mean an

whole group of healthy peasants

[240]

again

same darkness emerges

deprived of a soul.”

calls the

city

Elder, the old

in the complete darkness

sleep in the kitchen.

the

The

They mention

garden and a house and

man

?

Of

streets.

and an unexpected

the servants lives “a

insane man.

it

is

savior appears; out of this

a white turban,

The

Kucha, passing a row of gardens.

little

is

afraid

chickens’ car-

Here

it is

the Chinese

that the

and flew

TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR him

out of the city on a dragon, taking with

Much March

is

rumored about the gold

Buddhist caves.

in the

spent in negotiations with arba\eshs,

is

mafa\eshs and \ora\eshs; after

becomes

everything seems impossible.

at first

an avalanche of unnecessary discussion everything

At

possible.

first, as

mated

as

days

the customary period.

is

his treasure!

iyth

The whole morning Then

all

Whereas,

twelve long days.

where are the

a

We

They

all

these faces.

are not visible.

more Mongoloid type appears

Turk

but in general, these are the same

Tokhars disappeared leaving no

traces

is esti-

everybody knows, eight

as

peer into

Tokhars ?

traces of the

haps something of

far as Karashahr, the road

Sarts.

And Per-

in the features,

And

thus, the

and no one knows even the

true pronunciation of the symbols of their writings.

come

So, before the eyes of history has is

unknown; nor

without a

is

it

And

trace.

known how Just so

whither he flew on the dragon

same country

—in

this

thing about the inhabitants

One cannot

from whence

and disappeared

scattered

not a savage people but one with a written

language, with culture.

in this

it

a nation,

is

is

it

with their Tzar Pochan:

known. And

pear-garden

who were

it is

—and

strange to

not

know

sit

any-

here not long ago.

obtain objects of antiquity here either

—“Some-

where, some one knows about them in Takla Makan.”

March 18th At one o’clock

at night,

Loud and

and

shrill

drums, trumpets and singing began.

persistent

were the screams of “Allah.”

These are the Moslems preparing for the ing the day they have to aplenty.

fast,

but

at

fast of

Ramazan.

Dur-

night they can partake of food

In order not to outsleep the period of eating, the good

Moslems play and dance on the eve of the

day’s fast.

The dogs

barked a great deal and were running wild during the night. [241

]

ALTAI. HIMALAYA camp and he noticed that the government guards, the tseri\s, slept heavily. Ramsana took away the rifle from one of them, went around the camp and fell asleep with the rifle. The tseri\ was startled when he awoke in the morning without his gun. Oh, these unhappy Ramsana got up

in order to inspect the

tseri\s!

came

In the morning

been in

a

Swedish

She has

missionary.

How-

country for fifteen years and not one convert!

this

with doctoring and midwifery

ever, the missionary busies herself

and here

woman

absolutely necessary because

is

it

all

these “cities” are

without a single doctor.

Then

firm, Brenner Brothers of

wool

A

We

begins the American day.

New

to see the

They

York.

An entire community

business.

go

American

are in the gut

of vigorous

working people.

unique community with children and with a joyous

growing work.

tion of the

The

business

is

and

realiza-

With

developing.

the primitiveness of the apparatus one has to admire the fine

all

results.

on

a

Here they

hand-made

are waiting to

are assorting

and washing the wool.

press they are pressing

lift

it.

Here

Here,

a line of camels

the white heaps of wool and to carry

them

abroad, to Tientsin and to the ports for Europe and America.

In the whole artel there are no books; for the entire community there

is

lenko.

New

one

world.

a joy to be able to give

It is

There are

two books. praise

murdered

the

D.

Testament and an accidental volume of Koro-

is

about the

affairs of the Sarts.

They ask what happens

Titai.

skillfully interpreting the local

religious discussions.

which

are spread

much

intolerance.

strangle the

tales

them old newspapers and

new

In this

way

the intolerance

by the Mullahs find

And many

customs by

and

resistance.

They in

the

way

of

superstition

And

there

is

of the local Beys have planned to

foreign enterprise.

D. and P. show themselves

as pioneers for

[242]

America in

this

TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR They

country.

listen to

our

tales

the mineral riches of the Torgut

about America.

and

D.

tells

about

Iliisk district.

The Kalmuck administration does not hesitate to make innovations. The people praise the Sarts for their work. They have initiative, ability and The Kalmucks

are excellent

marksmen.

adaptability.

many

In the country are

narrators of legends

which touch the questions of the Koran and

and

questions upset the routine of superstition.

custom of sending young

a curious

men

Often the

religion.

enter into a dialogue with the narrator.

listeners

fairy tales

Often keen

In Turfan exists

with an experienced

guide in the guise of a story-teller through the whole country,

Thus

even to Mecca.

Through

versity.

is

evolving a unique experimental uni-

may

explain the adaptability of Tur-

festivities

usually end with a song about

one

this,

fanians.

The

gatherings and

Issa (Jesus):

“As

Issa

went on

his

wanderings, he saw a great head.

human

the road lay a dead

head.

Issa

On

thought that the great

And Issa decided to do good and to resurrect this great head. And the head covered itself with skin. And the eyes filled themselves. And there grew a great body and the blood flowed. And the heart was filled. And

head belonged

the

to a great

man.

mighty giant rose and thanked

usefulness to

There

among which

are

the is

Issa that

he resurrected him for

humankind.”

many

legends about the flights of Solomon, and

Kalmucks

nothing

else

is

than one of the manuscripts already

to us, “Issa, the Best of

trated here not

very widely spread a legend about Jesus

Human

Sons.”

Of

from Hemis but from another

Everywhere are spread the signs of beauty.

them

fearlessly

course

It is

it

known

has pene-

original source.

time to gather

without superstition.

Again information

is

given to us about ancient places: About

[243]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA many

and stupas along Kizil darya.

caves

been excavated and part of them are

still

on the bazaar they sold “a trunk with

Part of

them have

Not long ago

hidden.

antiquities”

brought from

Lob (near Lob-nor). There are tales about old cities along the stream of Tarim or Yarkand darya. There are people who know these cities. The fossilized bodies in the burial grounds indicate a very great stature, taller of course than Mongolians. The expeditions

which were

there,

completed the

Now

part of the work.

easier

and most apparent

more concealed

there yet remains the

work demanding greater construction and preparation. In Kucha it is already warm. The young grass is getting green and is two inches high. We learn that from Karashahr to Urumchi one can go by the mountain road. It will be five days shorter.

In this way, one can avoid the hot

where there sea level).

is

In the

summer

Tukson,

Turfan Oasis (960 feet below Turfan people bury themselves in

in

walk more than one

approaching heat, there better to

at

a descent into the

the earth and cannot

is

site

mud

is

p’o-t’ai.

Besides the

by now, on the great road.

go through the Kalmuck

territory,

It

along the moun-

tain passes.

March igth Ramsana again took and

would

And

around the camp.

strolled

and asked him

his feet

gun away from

the

to return the

the sleeping tseri\

again the tseri\

gun

bowed

as otherwise the

to

Amban

beat him.

They

ask on

what

Chinese currency

by anything and Governor.

Of

is

the comparatively high exchange of the

based.

But

all

now

that

circulates like dry leaves

course, this

is

it is

by

not guaranteed

command

of the

one of the successive misunderstand-

ings and justice will soon clarify

Until

know

it.

in Tibet there exists a

custom of

cuting gambling houses and brothels.

[244]

A

specially prose-

certain

lama

called

TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR Geko Lama, upon a

learning of the existence of such houses, takes

dozen lamas with whips and

And

presents himself at the house.

peak of the orgy

at the very

on the

spot, all

“Of him who came

earlier”:

then, there

present are whipped. Interesting

is

the

Kalmuck

song,

“One man pondered long and forgot to come to the elections of a Noyon (prince). Another man did not sleep that night and came first. And he was selected Noyon, because he entered first. And so the former who pondered, sits and broods that for him no place was found

As

Noyon.”

in the yurta of the

many marks

in other countries, so here are

Often on the rocks one can

see tiny projecting piles of stones.

These are the signs of

treasures.

can find directions

how

as to

In the monastery records one

one

one, for his

tomb

recently.

B. has

marked

pile

called Ishan here,

is

knowledge of

there reached six quarters in length. tion of Lob-nor.

may go from one D.

to another to the site of the treasure.

B. has seen an ancient

according

at certain times of the day,

to the indications of the shadows,

meaning the holy

of treasures.

religious subjects.

The tibial bone found The spot is in the direcSo there are interesting

it.

indications for the future.

March

We

20th bid farewell to the workers’ group

again noticed that wherever there

on

a troy\a;

of town.

is

labor there

D. and M. went on horseback

Again questions: Where

discuss the newspapers

at

shall

and books we

to

Brenner’s.

We

P.

went

joy.

is

accompany us out

we meet?

left for a

They

long time.

will

For

our farewell they demonstrated to us the wonderful pace of their

Karashahr horses. calls

D.

It fills

We

“Now

you

shall encircle a part of the

are sinking into the

our eyes.

We

milky

desert.

A

Gobi,”

shamal begins.

turn into a yellow mass.

Every day comes new significant information.

[245]

“The Mon-

ALTAI-HIMALAYA army has reached the river Urungu and threatens Sinkiang.” Nobody in Europe and America knows about the affairs golian

of the local countries.

We

are stopping in the village Yaka-arik.

Underground

creeks are often used here.

fully to the tradition of

underground

This corresponds

passages, so prevalent in

Precisely in Central Asia, are interwoven fairy tales

Asia.

European measures

reality.

From Peking an

establish

Urumchi.

it

The

are not applicable here.

was proposed

aeroplane

to the Tu-t’u

of Sinkiang to

communication between

Peking and

Tu-t’u answered that in this province this would

not be practicable, because his people were wild and would to the mountains.

Of

course the people

would not

flee;

more

quickly.

these air messengers.

flee

but rumors

of the various ignorant activities of the Governor-General

spread

and

would

The people would very quickly welcome The dream of the Orient about the flying Solomon, would be

carpets,

which the people

born in

their expectation of the iron birds.

attribute

to

For in Tibet

re-

also

the most ancient prophecies have envisaged iron birds and iron

There

serpents.

are also, as in traces of the

fundamental teach-

ing of Buddha, references to the cosmogonic problems of planetary evolution

began

to speak about

woman

Buddhism,

life.

As soon

as

we

as of a realistic teaching, the

Kucha hastened to leave us, saying, “The Buddhism are taken from Christianity.” But the

missionary in

scriptures of Pillars of first

and of the development of

Asoka were standing before

Christianity

and

in the

century before Christ the recording of the covenants of

Gautama was

already begun.

One

has to regard things

more

simply and without prejudice. •

March 2 1st Not long ago

•

•

•

the travels of Sven

precedented heroism; and

now

E.

I.

[246]

•

Hedin appeared as an unis crossing the same deserts

TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR and heights with no thought that it is anything extraordinary. Now the representatives of Brenner are traversing the same expanses where Sven Hedin, according to his books, almost perished

And soon iron And the fairy tale

from lack of water.

same

these

places.

new

by the

birds will swiftly

of the past will be replaced

fairy tale of the cosmos.

High

Since evening the cicadas have been singing. the shining

moon. There

the fragrance of grass.

is

o’clock at night the buran struck.

was

all

should desert.

We

aflutter. fly

Mother

they call

it

Approaching

of pearl

Tommy

The

silvery

Here we

We

sun

Belyan-khan which goes a

is

This

tent

And we

Brenner’s

Two women

are going to Karaul.

and

We

stop in the garden of

shall

suffocated us again with their deep

last p’o-t’ai

limping.

is

On

to Tientsin.

kazan troy\a.

He

has malanders.

He

will be out

In the evening everything becomes quiet.

sets.

are called Ferengi-Bey.

and go from Kurat through

It is

our

fifth

name

a

Kalmuck encampment, by way

the monastery Sharasiime on the mountain road to

The Kalmucks,

as a nation,

go through

The Dungans,

thus far.

whether we can avoid Karashahr

are trying to find out

instructive to

two

flying

The

morning.

spread out a big caravan.

of service for five days.

came

and opal and above, dull sapphire.

p’o-t’ai.

is

at

morning again the pearly Gobi

the

in

from Chuguchak

The

until

It

But

stands

to prepare ourselves in case the tent

us, tinkling,

passed fourteen

sands.

is

here,

three Tartar girls

Yangiabad.

had

And

away.

the road, in order, or, as

Verily struck.

dragon and roared threateningly

like a

above

fly

Urumchi.

have slipped out of attention.

their ulus for a

of

It is

week.

or Chinese Moslems, occupy a strange position

They are frankly disliked by Moslem, Chinese and Kalmucks. The word “Dungan” itself is pronounced with a certain contempt. The faces of the Dungans are scarcely attrac-

in the country.

tive.

There

is

much

cruelty in them. [

247

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA We

proceed as far

as

Bogar, a dusty bazaar

into nine p’o-t’ai, but apparently

Here the

p’o-t’ai are

and long

p’o-t’ai.

we go by

First

mud.

is

The hoopoes

There

is

a

long

are short p’o-t’ai

uphill

p’o-t’ai,

is

strange measure of distance.

To

the opal desert.

the left are

upon

before Bogar one comes

p’o-t’ai

road

mountain

a

divided

It is

more, judging by the time.

counted peculiarly.

Down

A

a short p’o-t’ai.

it is

site.

a

swampy

Three

hills.

On

oasis.

the

Big flocks of ducks and geese are on the wing. are strutting about in a

most pompous way.

The end

say of them: “These are former men.”

They

of the road

is

enveloped in clouds of dust.

A

On

dusty garden.

the fence

Sung persuades him

Politely

“It

sitting the

is

son of the

not good to

is

sit

on

Amban.

a fence.”

But nothing helps, and Sung applies the customary means here

and throws

From

a stone.

disappears.

you hear the same remarks about the inaccuracy

all sides

of existing maps. It is

The boy

In some are omitted important

and

necessary to examine the transcription of the name.

from the Chinese, and

the Turki,

local jargon

maps

trouble

which

is

on the

in others,

many

In some

from some kind of

Even

not recognized anywhere.

there are a great

details.

In some they are taken from

are introduced non-existing names.

staff

sites

errors

in the

which promise one much

route. •

•

a

•

•

March 23rd

Was cities.

of

not Tamerlane a great disinfector?

He

We know

little

sorts

all

what

it

means

of contagion.

can be done with them?

ought

to is

turn toward

its

final

new

decay

places.

—

it

is

cities.

For the people’s welfare, one

burn them and plan new in

clay cities full

Here we have passed twelve

What

the old

to destroy

many

destroyed

villages beside

difficult to force

Here the Tung-ling [248]

them.

While

the natives to

of

Kucha

con-

R

TAKLA M AK AN— K AR ASH A H strutted a

ground

We

new

city alongside the old city.

We

follow a broad plain.

Nobody knows

The

place.

go further

behind Chader.

shall stop

p’o-t’ai.

We

pass Yangizar.

caravan

is

under-

It is

delayed.

dark.

Sabsa’s

Mastan and Olla are keeping up remarkably.

swollen.

is

We

forest.

have passed sixteen

back

streets,

But the people are afraid of the new

canals.

through a dusty

We

Broad

The caravan

distances.

arrives at

one

at night.

March 24th

A

tiring day.

It is

Up

low shrubs.

to

Chirchi

caravan of Belyankhan. the

same

To-day

The

firm. is

house of the

We

we

is

twelve

by a dusty

We

p’o-t’ai.

forest

Our

and

pass a big

In Chirchi stands another caravan of

pioneers of America are working.

The day

are sending our thoughts to America, to the

Museum and

the school,

dear friends,

annual meeting. spaces

it

are passing

the day of our institutions in America!

of the founders.

observed.

We

hot.

The

is

it

as

if

where the day

we were

is

being

present at your

distance does not exist.

Traversing these

recall the plains of the Mississippi

and Missouri and

We

the immeasurable steppes of Russia. the caravan of Belyankhan.

This

is

are even rejoicing at

already cooperation with

As though both continents, divided by a cosmic catastrophe, remembered their former unity. How much of Mongolian there is in the types of the later Mayans and the red-skinned Indians! How much equal breadth there is in America and in Asia. And now in its moment of regeneration, Asia rememAsia:

bers

its

distant

March 25th They show of greasy

ties.

Greetings to America!

us another species of monetary symbols

little

rag and a dirty

of the local currency:

de\hans.

little

Lans (or

But a Kashgar lan

is

bone.

This

sar or teza )

equal to three

[249]

is

— some sort

the situation

are equal to 400

Urumchi

lans

and

ALTAI-HIMALAYA an Urumchi lan

You

considered 800 dehjians.

with you.

But because of

suffering.

Can such

will say

is

nonsense.

money

differences in standards of

the reason that people ask

is

it

Khotan lan I

is

agree

nonsense, millions of people are

this

in one province be further complicated

This

A

equal to three Kuldja Ians.

is

existing

by wooden and rag signs ?

why

the value of Chinese

currency has stood so high until now.

Nowhere accessible

upper layer of discoveries has already been exported to

Europe and

The

itself.

hidden

as for the

layers, let

them remain

demand

dignity of the countries

are disposing of the people’s treasures for their

many

of

Yangi Hissar (designated

thousands of Ians

and

the taxes without limit until

he regains

as

is

sun.

and

in It

also

summer said,

and came out

God

himself a god. before him. a god.

king’s

they bake

it is

still

new

position

cool,

but by midday

caravans begin to travel by night

about the heat of Turfan

tales

little

cakes on the stones under the

“There are many underground springs here,

man and

after six

passages.”

months of wandering.

in Barkul.

He

sat

In the past they once

he hid himself in a subterranean passage

another thing happened long ago:

search of

was

Again

many underground

tortured a holy

And

The

already burning.

is

lost

has especially increased

will not leave for his

morning

In the

during the summer.

where

Andijan)

to

through the desert with small brush.

p’o-t’ai

reach Tim.

the sun

Ambans own benefit. The

his loss.

Twelve more

We

that they should

Consul

as

Now he

at cards.

for Asia

But so far the

wisely dispose of their true resources.

Amban

Apparently the

are objects of antiquity to be found.

They came

and read

a

“Some people went

to a

book and

king

who

in

considered

his cat held a candle

The pilgrims decided to test whether the king really They argued, ‘If we let loose a mouse, will the

shrewd

power should

cat

run

stop the

after it? cat.’

If

the king

Thereupon they [250]

is

let

a

a

god then

mouse

his

loose,

TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR and the king’s

cat ran

now saw

people

“They went

away and threw down the was not

that the king

further.

bread and asked

if

They met

a god.

who

a shepherd

He

but the shepherd did not wish to take his dog.

dog ran and

him.

after

would

find

The shepherd

killed the dog.

“They approached

Only

to seek

them more

who had

to the city to

such

money had

to the

Some time

buy bread

to take his

He

at the bazaar. at the

money, saying that

not been current.

The shepherd

open.

And

all

passed

afterward

them

of the giant

for 2,000 years

quickly returned after

him

in

But apparently the holy people

by tempest or by prayer.

army but much

though they

And

offered

coming

have no need for kings, for the mountain closed. either

him

been sent for something came out; he

order to investigate this wonder.

entire

What

door closed after them.

mountain and the king of the place hurried

opened

But the

God!

money, but the people were astonished and they refused

easily.

did not even have pity on

where the holy people dwell, no one knows.

came

said that be-

a chasm-like crevice in the mountain.

as they entered, the stone

the shepherd

gave them

They took him,

he could be their comrade.

cause of the animal, people

The

candle.

as they labored

Nor could

it

The king brought at this

be his

mountain, and

perished in the attempt, the mountain did not

near this mountain

is

the

tomb

of the king.

Such

deeds there were and such underground passages there are.”

A tales

young Baksha overtakes us on horseback. and

tells

legends,

and he “conjures

He

sings fairy

— devils” “Baksha,

sing

He takes out from behind his back a long-stringed gejac\. He sings as he rides. He plays. The strings sound well. And somehow one forgets the dry sands and the hot sun. Two melodies resound. Now the higher one

the tale of Shabistan!”

dominates, as

thunders out

Then

if

its

in supplication or

command;

again the lower

victorious affirmation.

the Baksha takes the tambourine and

[251]

fills

the desert

ALTAI-HIMALAYA We

with widely varied rhythms.

we

the country of the Sarts,

rejoice that

on the

last

day in

are accompanied by the song

To-morrow we

melodies of the Baksha Sart.

and

shall reach the

ulus of the Kalmucks.

At

the

to the north, out of the fog

Behind

Shan.

At

left,

are the

it

Kalmucks and beyond

it

Semirechye.

Tim, is a great ancient stupa and ruins of old banners of Buddhism. It is said that the mountain

the entrance to

structures,

where Buddha was and snow now

was

all

fell

and extinguished the

initiated

of the Blessed One,

it

looms the ridge of T’ian

snow

encircle this

But

aflame.

mountain and

it

is

after the prayer

Ice

fire.

difficult to find

until the predestined date.

A

warm

quiet

evening, a milky spring sky.

encampment

reach an

Karashahr and go chi!

We

of the

there,

If

one only could

Kalmuck Khan without

entering

by monasteries and mountains, to Urum-

are awaiting the

Kalmucks.

This

is

significant.

March 26th

A

beautiful day.

fair,

First

All sapphire and amethyst.

T’ian Shan.

From below

of fine sand formations.

mountain

river.

A

Then we

crossed a

row

the hill flashed a blue

—the

We

followed

custom house.

The

The first Kalmucks appear. George Mongolian on them. They understand each other. We

boundary of Kalmuck

soil.

stop in a langar, not far

The

rose the range of

powerful and overflowing one.

In front of us, closed gates

the river.

tries his

from the north,

from Mingoi Saur (thousand

ruins are enveloped in a legend that a

certain place.

The people dug.

lama saw a

ruins).

light at a

They reached water and

there

appeared a water-serpent.

There

is

a belief that

on these

sites

stood a large monastery

containing the chalice of Buddha, which disappeared from Pe-

shawar, and which

Now we

is

mentioned by Fa-hsien in Karashahr.

are stopping by the river, near strata of coal.

[252]

This

is

— TAKLA MAKAN — KARASHAHR the

day without dust

first

The Kalmuck

in blossom.

now walking around Behind the

river

We recall the

—again mountain

glow the shepherds’

the hopes of the Kalmucks.

formation

as to

what

this

a full

We

recall

Of what

one’s

palm

sent to him.

full of holes.

is

how

Torgut leader can achieve

then a long farewell to Dzungaria!

is

shines.

Chuntse,

Toin Lama. Later there came should he

what

moon

bonfires.

And

to accept

first tree is

though we were

It is as

At night

borders.

its

one, told us about

first

soil smiles.

The

air.

.

.

if

fail to

full in-

he

able

is

accept

avail to

it

speak

if

.

March 27th

The

the mountains recede

Again

a dusty

and the

and famished

river disappears

On

There

deal of inflammable clay slate.

we

In a whirl of dust crossing

there

seldom

is

A

the surface

is

a great

coal in the mountains.

is

The

multi-colored crowd; piles of

camels and horses.

nothing Buddhist.

sees the faces of

a village road, in-

Such crossings there were on the

rafts.

small tributaries of the Volga. balls; carts, mules,

toward the south.

reach the river opposite Karashahr.

on primitive

is

Again

desert.

stead of a broad Chinese highway.

itself,

Soon

crossing to Karashahr (or Karachahr, or Karachar).

Still

And Sarts

Kalmucks, marked

again, in the city

and Chinese.

as they are

One

by greater

keenness and alertness. S.,

a representative of Belyankhan, meets us.

He

praises the

Kalmucks.

We have to change servants. everybody

is

afraid,

afraid of Chinese

able rupees. gols.

They

happens

Our

terrorizing Gorban, of

to be very

timorous himself.

and of Kalmucks and trembles

Sarts are apparently afraid of

fear their keenness.

We

of Sarts in the caravan by Kalmucks.

observe this nation which

may now [253

]

shall

He

is

for his miser-

Kalmucks and Mon-

have to

How

whom

fill

in the loss

illuminating

it is

to

enter the pages of history.

ALTAI-HIMALAYA How

refreshing

it

to leave the sands selves

when

sight of

is

to penetrate again into the

and the

dust.

mountains and

Even the horses shake them-

they approach fresh water and mountains.

At

mountains our Tibetans, Tsering and Ramsana,

the

fairly

leap with joy.

Smile, is

Kalmuck

soil.

The

Series

conceived.

[

254

]

“Asurgina and Orovani”

Part IX

KARASHAHR—DZUNGARIA (1926)

March

2 8th

Karashahr, in translation, means Black City.

Urumchi

On

this

Strange in

the

is

call

Red Temple (Hung-Miao-Tzi).

expanse are the countries of the Torguts and Khoshuts. the destiny of the Kalmucks.

an inexplicable manner.

cupy the

The Chinese

Iliisk district; the

nation

is

dispersed

In Chinese Sinkiang, the Olets oc-

Torguts, Karashahr; the Khoshuts,

Dzungaria; the Oirots, Mongolia; the Besides these there are

The

Kalmuck

Damsok

are

in

Tibet.

ulus, scattered in Caucasia, Altai,

Semirechye, Astrakhan, along the Don, and near Orenburg.

Near

the holy

mountain Sabur stand the remains of the

Kalmuck King,

Aisha.

In the scattered yurtas begin to appear

the signs of self-consciousness. tell

A

of the

coming

city of the

The

prophecies of the forefathers

dates.

dispute between a Sart Bey and the

Kalmuck.

The

Sart

The Kalmuck answers, calmly: “If a Sart comes among us we feed him and give him drink, and we feed his horse and give him provisions on his journey. But if a Kalmuck comes to the Sart, he is not given says provokingly:

“You have no god.”

food and his horse remains hungry. possesses the essential.

The

Judge for yourself,

Sarts defile the

Buddhist teaching

and mock the Buddhist images but the Kalmucks vere your inscriptions.’ the

first

who

‘We reBut you have no images because when say,

images were bestowed, you were far distant and could

not perceive them.”

[255]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA teaching can

Those

dispute with Buddhists.

It is difficult to

much

so

tell

who go

various guises, for the help of mankind.

Gautama

new

But

we

if

S.

praises the

Kalmucks

“One does not need Sarts, especially the

We

earth, in

Unprejudiced, they

styli-

encounter a teaching based

ahead of

far

epoch.

its

word:

for the steadfastness of their

written agreements.

It is

not as with the

beks and beys.”

encounter a few beautiful Karashahr horses.

This

is

the

breed which one sees on ancient miniatures and on

identical

Some

the statuettes of old China.

But here

extinct. It

we

knowledge of evolution

true

on

eliminate from these tales the

zation of language and images

on the

forth

movements, recalling the commands of

social

himself.

the

of the evolution of life; they speak

about the messengers from Shambhala

speak of the

who know

it is

scientists

considered this breed

before us, vigorous, dark-bay, firm in gait.

would be good

for other countries to

To-morrow we

will

go

to the

examine

encampment

this breed.

of the

Kalmuck

Khan. Hardly has evening

fallen before a

new Sinkiang villainy

great excitement and says that the

S. arrives in

Amban

occurs.

will not

permit us to go by the short road and orders us to continue our route through the sands and heat of Toksun, the long and weari-

some highway.

An

derision of the artist

added

insult,

an added imposition, an added

and the man.

see the monasteries?

Is

by way of the dry sands

?

it

Is it

possible that

We

possible that

an

artist

arrange at

all

home.

that

is

necessary.

His secretary says

hurry to the Taotai.

The

is

now no

old

man

His secretary

Amban will We go to the Amban. He is not that the Amban “fears for us on we

can go, that the

account of the great snows on the mountain pass.” that there

cannot

must go only

pretends to be indisposed and cannot receive us. shouts from the balcony that

we

longer any snow, that

[256]

we do

We

explain

not have to

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA go by way of high Teke-davan, that we will go through Sumundavan, which

is

lower.

At seven o’clock they promise to bring us course the snow of the Amban is by no means

of a white color.

These Chinese

These Chinese are capable of ruining each day. are capable of transforming each

We

day into

Of

the answer.

a prison

and

a torture.

await the evening and nevertheless prepare to depart.

There

come Torguts, returning from Kobdo.

A Khoshut

He

lama comes.

us valuable tales.

The lama from

Not

He

asks us to heal his eyes.

fairy tales but facts.

Uliasutai has written a

brings

Facts are needed.

book about the approach

of the time of Shambhala.

The nephew

In the evening the answer comes.

and the postmaster bring In spite

it.

Of

of the Taotai

course the answer

of the heat, of the humidity and dust,

the long way, through hot Toksun.

E.

I.

is

we must go by

says she will die

the heat, but the Chinese smile and notify us that their

has a very small heart.

ernor-General

We

compose

this

negative.

from

Governor

telegram to the Gov-

:

Please wire instructions to the Magistrate at Karashahr

Urumchi by Health of Mrs. Roerich does not allow her to continue journey through the hot sandy desert of the long road. The mountain road permits to reach

to allow Roerich Expedition to proceed to

mountain way.

Urumchi much

sooner.

Until the arrival of an answer of the

we

shall

go

to the

encampment

Torgut Khan and the monastery Sharasiime.

The sense of surveillance and compulsion is abominable. What work can be accomplished when behind one’s back stands the order of the

Amban and when

the Governor-General has a “very

[257]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA small heart”

?

One’s whole

mood

is

spoiled

and we are waiting

again as though in some medieval Chinese dungeon.

March

We

29th

with the dawn.

arise

in order that the Chinese S.

difficulties.

brimmed

All our

may

men

hasten to leave earlier

not have time to invent

accompanies us for a long distance.

In a broad-

hat and in a yellow, old military coat, he

poised on his ambling horse as

We

if

he came from a

new well-

sits

New

Mexican

The sun is burning hot. To the north is again a vague silhouette of mountains; separate great yurtas; herds of camels. The riders wear round caps of Tibetan cut. After nine p’o-t’ai we arrive at the encampment. The bazaar is cleaner than the cities of the Sarts. The white buildings of the post shine in the sun. The walls, the yards, the walks, are broadly constructed. They lead us ranch.

go by the yellow steppe; high

White

through a broad yard into a big room.

We

Chinese furniture, bearskins.

drink

from the Gegen-regent (the Khan being

grass.

They bring

tea.

a minor).

whom we

same reincarnated Sengchen Lama

walls, black

a card

This

is

the

mentioned in the

To-morrow we shall see him. We shall stop in the field behind the encampment opposite the mountains. A wonderful sensation. Kalmucks come and are speaking to our lama. The Kalmucks ask whether we have pieces of Sikhim

notes.

They

magnet. carefully,

women

until

ask about Tibet, about Mongolia,

they

know with

certainty

Toin-Lama, the Gegan riders,

who we

are in very beautiful, well-fitting attire.

wall a military trumpet resounds

who

ruler.

He

—these

all

are

this are.

very

The

Behind the

the Cossacks of

has two hundred

Kalmuck

are taught the Cossack formation.

March 30th

A

clear

morning.

Purple mountains.

[258]

It will

be hot.

The

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA what

One might have

of Ladak.

rejoiced

announcement

and that

would be

it

—in

that

we must

some-

had there not occurred

who came

a Chinese villainy in the guise of a guard,

insolent

me

mountains and buildings reminds

distinctness of the

with the

not remain here too long,

better to await the

command

of the Tu-t’u

manured fields, dust and suffocating heat. Verily, one may choke from all the proposals of the Chinese. Now even the escorting soldiers have begun to reprimand us. They ought rather to guard our seized arms, which in

Karashahr

the middle of

were thrown on the

we go

to

Toin-Lama,

field

a friendly

man, small

upon hearing the

Although

impenetrable,

is

about temples in Sikhim and

tales

he becomes animated and wishes us

Little Tibet

ten o’clock

in stature.

according to custom the face of Toin-Lama nevertheless,

At

without any watch.

He

all success.

stands as he listens to the message, but fear of the Chinese congeals the tongue of

.

He mumbles: “When

But the time has come!

comes.” self.

Toin-Lama.

Every one measures for him-

.

.

The house

of the prince

is

white and clean and spacious.

Dented

the yards stand yurtas with golden cupolas.

Some

ners.

how

stand coils

faces smiling,

strong

is

Sinkiang oppression.

isters”

and

soldiers.

mands

elders arrives

Do we

A

say that

we

we

But the

Not even

three

whole crowd of “min-

from the Gegen-regent with two Chinese

not see that the

Amban

of Karashahr

us to return to Karashahr immediately

to us at length

under-

The Sinkiang dragon

around the semi-independence of the Kalmucks.

hours pass without Chinese treachery.

In

Ban-

walls.

One can

and some gloomy.

mountains and the white walls are so joyous!

that

the time

and firmly, but there

is

no

P

All this

letter

with

is

comtold

it.

We

intend to leave Sinkiang as quickly as possible, but

await the answer from the Tu-t’u.

And

here

we

sit

again in inactivity and await a telegram from Urumchi, without

any assurance that our telegram was sent

[259]

at all.

It is

impossible

ALTAI-HIMALAYA work because even without moving we call forth persecution. Meanwhile the soldier goes to the bazaar and entrusts his gun And so the soldier’s gun is being entrusted to to Suleiman. our groom and our arms are left sealed in the fields. In fine, to

where

logic,

is

where

reason?

is

After three hours a buran

Friends, you will think that

anything,

Again

and transmit

a

are noisy

nor can one

to us the

visit

One can

of

letter

only determine to leave Chinese to

I

stating the reasons of our expulsion. official letter

I tell

from the

my

This

slavery, against all the

And where

shall

endure

And where torturers

life I

territory of the

independence?

I.

them

that

I

am

was honorably received by twenty-two

for the first time in

it?

is

soil

demand back

that the expul-

by

quickly.

work;

of the Expe-

command of the Karashahr Taotai, who having made maps. They give us carts in order is

that

E.

that one cannot

The whole purpose

give us the passports with an

away more

of

we immediately

that

Within two hours we go

as quickly as possible.

sion

If

of the Karashahr Taotai.

means

It

Sharasiime.

our passport and a

demand

command

and threaten.

dition vanishes.

They

exaggerating somewhat.

crowd of Kalmucks come with Chinese

depart from the post by

They

am

I

disappear.

should be glad to understate, but the occurrences

I

are monstrous. soldiers

The mountains

starts.

am

to send us

fifty-two years old; countries,

and that

subjected to expulsion and this

semi-independent Torguts. is

accuses us

What kind

nothing but slavery: humiliating

customs of the East

— to cast

out a guest!

we go? To the heat of Toksun? And can Her heart is absolutely unable to bear the heat.

the nearest border in order to hide

?

A tempest threatens

in the mountains.

[

260

]

from the Chinese

—

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA March

We

31st

We

slept badly.

morning

twilight.

I

arose before

meet our lama.

dawn.

He

I

walk out

in the

very upset: “I must

is

—“Who us.”

said it?” They want to arrest “During the night came a lama whom I know from Tibet; he says that yesterday the Kalmuck Elders wanted to bind us “Take Olla and the all; but they were afraid of the revolvers.”

depart at once.

—

Kirghiz with you.

There we

Gallop through the steppe

to

Karashahr.

shall find you.”

In five minutes the lama and the Kirghiz are already galloping through the steppe.

We

start in a

The

have come in the meantime.

carts

Threatened by the Chinese, the

hurry to load.

Gegen-regent does not even come

to say good-by.

once was he held back in Urumchi and afraid.

mitted

Even

him

now

he

is

More than even more

for the religious festivals the Chinese only per-

to leave

not courageous,

still

please the Chinese.

Urumchi

for four days.

Although he

one cannot simply expel guests

Some

riders are encircling us

is

in order to

and spying.

Again we go by the same steppe but Karashahr has become for us truly a black city. visiting the

we were prohibited from They doom us to creep along the

In Karashahr

Buddhist temple.

hot sands for twelve days and stupidly prohibit us from touching the beloved mountains.

is

made

But on the other hand we

know

we were

surrounded by Chinese

kaftan

is

Karashahr, by reason of the

again

order of the Tu-t’u, veillance.

From

hidden Chinese

and

spies

that the poor

that often

We

identity.

garden where we were before.

convicts under sur-

From

come

Gegen

under a Kalmuck’s into the

manured

the gates they scream at

Moslem greeting). Sung rushes The usual fight. The Sart runs at the offender with a whip. away. We go at once to the Amban and on our way take along the postmaster, who speaks English. The Amban says that according to the telegram of Tu-t’u, we must go by the long way

us

“Kapr” (meaning impure,

a

[261

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA through the sands,

Of

we

course

heart.”

danger to the health of E.

in spite of the

I.

already heard that the Tu-t’u has a “very small

The Amban

But, nevertheless, this cruelty astonishes me.

does not deny that he ordered us to return from the encamp-

ment and temple.

we were

that

prohibited from visiting the Buddhist

We say that in that case

and we ask

we have nothing

China

in

for a written statement of these prohibitions for

communication

to

The Amban

America.

confused and refers

is

Once more

to the necessity of conferring with the Taotai. is

do

to

confirmed that

we

from

are prohibited

visiting the temples

it

and

painting the mountains and that in order to expedite our journey

we

are sent

on

Where

a long road.

Confucius ?

art thou,

Where

thy justice and sagacity?

is

They demand, price is not more

Tiresome bargaining over the arbas begins. as far as

Urumchi, 180

Ians,

than ninety or a hundred

while the usual

So we

Ians.

finish the

day among

different “friendly greetings.”

Kalmuck this

had smiled to us from

soil

Sikhim

Himalayas.

It

we began Makan.

how

related

after the receipt of the letter

We

Kirghiz, Salim,

And

again

is

his

we

the

recall the deeply

grandeur of the

that our hearts ached

when

from the Karakorum heights toward Takla

The Kirghiz

he changes

recall

was not without cause

to descend

bind them?

if

moods; we

but on approach

We

was turned into the Sinkiang grimace.

penetrating

cil

afar,

from the Amban: “Should we

many and

are

indignant

word

the Torgut Elders held coun-

in

see the

they are only three.”

Gegan: “This

at the

an hour, he

shall

is

The

not a prince;

never be a Burkhan.”

sympathy of the people and the rancor

of the Elders and beks.

conduct of the Kalmucks.

The Lama All this

is

is

indignant because of the

illuminating!

The former

Kalmuck Khan was poisoned. A wiser counselor was The Torgut Elders are far from awakening.

[

262

]

killed.

April

i st

The

Different tales about the Kalmucks.

late

Kalmuck Khan,

under pressure or under influence, gave an important mission

Urumchi in order The Kalmucks overtook to legalize and to ratify the mission. him in the mountains and put an end to him together with

The Chinese

to a Chinese.

his escort, so that not

hurriedly went to

even any traces were found.

Because their

Kalmucks poisoned him. As the heir was a minor, the brother of the Khan, ToinLama, became regent. In June of this year, the Toin-Lama will give over the state seal (tamgha) to the young Khan, and he

Khan was

susceptible to such influence, the

himself

going away

is

Sharasiime.

Toin-Lama

an

to the

ecclesiastic

twelve-year-old

the

Shall fell

as

Khan

The

A

Titai.

was

Noyon

taxes.

sent to kill the

complete medieval darkness!

prosperity of the

taxes are high.

reign for long?

into disgrace with the Tu-t’u after he refused

to give his soldiers for the expedition that

Kashgar

monastery in

Kalmucks

is

being crippled because the

Besides the Chinese taxes, they pay the local

It is

hard for the people.

The

herds of the simple

people are getting meager; and the Elders, taking their bearing

from Sinkiang, have reached and

shall

in

Tu-t’u of Urumchi, and that

Museum;

orders but his actions,

ment

bind

it

less

We

bloodthirsty than the

will not suffocate E.

I.

This

sends a compilation of his orders to the British Consul,

also to the British

at first

try to

Karashahr they brought the threats into action.

hope that the weather will be

official

where they

In Khotan they threatened to expel

an American Expedition. us,

a point

hand

is

it

such

human

see

it

is

not the dead pages of his

which give the image of the man.

It

are calling the Sinkiang

you

it

possible to see the true

of Sinkiang.

until

but

on

is

Only

image of the govern-

not for nothing that the best Chinese

government, “Sinkiang Company.”

this site,

deterioration.

And

you will not be able to believe in

Of

course the Tu-t’u

[263]

is

old and will

ALTAI-HIMALAYA and he cannot take with him

die soon

But

goods. Verily

much

we were

any

America awaits the Chinese

Probably for

so.

my

paintings of the

government explain why

Of

Amban

course, the

Well,

letter.

it is

In Sikhim

and banners; but on Chinese

us with trumpets

with ropes.

me

let

has to be

it

not permitted to go to the monasteries.

met

they

stables?

rather paint than depict these harmful,

be useful.

Buddhist heights, but

Augean

to clean these

But apparently

evils.

this will

one

will be the

should

I

malevolent

some

who

to his grave the pilfered

soil,

of Karashahr did not give

We

not necessary.

have a

letter

with

Kalmuck Khan which clearly indicates the order Chinese officials. Quicker, away from the Chinese threat!

the seal of the

of the

Before us are the islands of Japan: before us the dreams, longexisting, to see the Easter Islands

with their mysterious stone

giants.

Soldiers

were not sent to-day

have to guard themselves.

at all

and

The evening

so our confiscated

is

ended with the tedious

who

procedure of granting leave to three hostlers

away

to

He

us.

are going

Tibetan, Tsering, wants to go with

does not love his stepmother, and he says that his father

has become a

with

The young

Ladak.

arms

sti

anger to him and he wants to go far away

The young

us.

How

possibilities.

soul

knocking

is

at the

window

of

new

can one not take him?

April 2nd

The morning father, to

drama

of Tsering.

us.

If

he does, he

You should have

and swallowing

says,

he will break his legs and

much

striving

his tears,

senselessly to

toward

All trembling

seen the tears of Tsering.

What

he bids us farewell.

people have to deprive one of his happiness? so

His Ladaki

misinformed by the malicious grooms, forbids Tsering

go with

arms.

begins with the

light.

do

In his desire was

And now Tsering

march with donkeys along the dry [264]

right

again will have sands, serving

From

a painting by Nicholas

Roerich

TIBETAN

Roerich Museum, N. Y.

WOMAN

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA Of

run away.

to

old

Sometimes we wonder

Poor boy!

ignorance.

man and

the

course this

no

less

Since seven o’clock

because the malicious

we have been busy with

the arbas and

distracted by such a tempo.

the

and the

account

who were

soldiers

sent.

An American would be driven When will these people awaken?

makes us indignant.

delay

same time comes

interesting information.

are taking vaccine against smallpox, not

and

people,

not going

malicious hostler will watch him.

of the unfitness of the horses

At

is

We are writing contracts. We are protesting on

caravan.

The

difficult

is

he

if

from

The Chinese

calves but

from

so they are contaminating people with syphilis

and

other diseases.

The Mongols have occupied from Urumchi one draws

—from

a line

from Kuldja

erected for himself a

Mongols remove

to Ku-ch’eng, the Tu-t’u will

monument

in

Urumchi.

What

us.

seeing beauty?

right

The

refreshed the caravan.

Ramsana

Will not the

it?

Instead of mountains,

p’o-t’ai.

instead of monasteries, instead of Maitreya

around

Governor-General.

Incidentally, the illustrious Tu-t’u has

marching only four

are

about 300 miles

or,

the residence of the

find himself in a sack.

We

from Sharasume and

hundred miles from Ku-ch’eng

are within a

If

the frontier

—again yellow steppes

do the Chinese have

to deprive us of

departure of the three hostlers

somehow

For some reason the people are joyous.

expects Tsering and assures us that he will

come run-

ning to us to-day or to-morrow.

April

yd

It is

very cold during the night and hot at midday.

steppe.

A

dusty stony road.

mountains.

we have

to

We

reach the dirty

stop

Taotais, Titais,

Northward little

near cattle yards.

is

range of foggy

village of Ushaktal.

Again

Indiscriminating are

Ambans, T’ung-lings, who [265]

a

Yellow

all

for centuries have

ALTAI-HIM ALA YA been stopping overnight little

village

same miserable

goes the Koshut road

Khoshut road

it

to

we have

to

go

know

Urumchi.

From

this

Along

the

This

Chinese cruelty, to

is

the dust and suffocating heat and to

in

that alongside this there goes a short road full of

tain beauty.

temporary Chinese

and

could mention to us any celebrated conor scientist.

artist

You may imagine our which the short road

moun-

that not one of the Taotais

It is significant

Ambans whom we saw

of

go by the long dusty, hot

and ugly road for eight whole days. force travelers to

inns.

Urumchi but by order

only four days to

is

the Governor-General, ‘

at the

when we saw the canyon through and we ourselves had to crawl in

feeling

passes,

clouds of hot dust!

Again

a variation of the legend about

came out

He

a tall

man and went

Turf an: “From a cave

to the bazaar to

buy something.

offered to pay for his purchases with gold coins

a thousand years old.

Then

cave and disappeared.

And

dog.

The dog wanted

to

man went

the

which were

back into the same

at the

entrance was standing a stone

jump

into the cave after the

man

but he became petrified.”

Ushaktal

is

Khoshut

the center for

They

horses.

are larger

than those of the Torguts.

At

Ushoktal are traces of an old

fortress of the times of the

of Andijan and Fergana.

Many

one

a distance of

mosquitoes.

Wild

p’o-t’ai

from

conquest

geese.

April 4th

“The old Khan decided

to

hand over

(seals) that they should rule the

to his sons the

Khoshuns.

tamgas

There were tamgas

The Khan’s wife wooden tamga. Don’t

of gold, silver, copper and one of wood.

told

her favorite son: ‘My boy, take the

take

the gold ones!’ the old

Khan

The Khans began

said,

tamgas with water.

to choose

‘The sky has created water.

The one tamga which [266]

the tamgas and

Let us

test

the

shall be higher shall

— KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA And

remain higher.’

the

wooden tamga remained on and

of the water, but the gold

On

the black Irtish are

The gold

sands of them.

sank underneath the water.”

silver

many

the surface

gold prospectors, tens of thou-

only slightly under the

is

The

soil.

Tu-t’u sent soldiers to detain the seekers, but on reaching the

gold the entire troop disappeared.

To-day

From

a beautiful day.

is

appear mountains

Gray sky and

and reddish brown.

blue, sapphire, purple, yellow

we

Alongside the bed of a broad current

pearly vistas.

Kara-Kizil.

all sides

It

means

The name

black-red.

is

reach

correctly given

The

because the mountains are of coarse granite, black and red.

How much

silence of the desert.

langars than the

And

and

cities

solitary

are these isolated

dirty bazaars!

we

only to think that

through

more agreeable

could have gone for four days

mountains, amidst far-off snows!

The whole

small pine.

peared the

first

miles, there

was only one small

of emaciated mules.

It is as if

with a bad well, a hun-

new

one did not go by

undiscovered country.

tains protrude layers of black slate

whole desert holds

day, for seventy-four

For the whole day only two small caravans

dred feet in depth.

road but through a

latigar,

To-day ap-

its

a big

From

Chinese

the

and coal formations.

moun-

And

the

breath awaiting the steps of the future. o

•

•

•

•

April $th

simply a torture with the

It is

arba and he

gun.

fails to

And

servants of

some passing

own Amban

his

to put our horses out of the langar.

the mountains are so beautiful

with greenish and carmine lies

goes to sleep in an

guard not only our arms but even

During the night the

wanted

He

tseri\.

spots.

!

They

stand, dark bronze,

Behind the mountains again

the desert, with dark shingled slopes strewn with light-yellow

bushes.

A whole carpet of Asia.

During the day

it is

hot.

An

eastern

[267]

wind brings some

relief.

ALTAI-HIMAL A YA We

passed nine p’o-t’ai to the poor village

and

disrupted

At one time

langars.

Two

village.

Kumash. here.

“But Ambans and Taotais are traveling here.

E.

asks,

I.

Is it possible

that

Suleiman laughs, “What does

they are stopping in such dirt?” it

pilfered

tumble-down and uninhabited

was something

there

A

Ambans? If they only have an opium pipe woman! They roll in any dirt!” Apparently, respect to

matter to these

and

a

the officials

is

not very great.

Through

travelers

from Khotan

a vague report penetrates about the replacing of Taotai

The Bar\hans

We

mist.

reminded of

are

from China

to Tibet relate

on the border

The mountains

are silent.

smoked much opium and

official

household, that the nurse had to

The

Kalmuck

was

left

happened that the border

It

his wife fulfill

was

so busy in the

the duties of a customs

This was printed in the Shanghai papers.

official.

travelers

a nurse with a child

customs inspector.

as

are hidden in blue

a characteristic case:

how

Ma.

Last year

pilgrims were prohibited from going to Tibet to wor-

ship in the sanctuaries.

Such prohibition

is

very significant.

Already to-day the Chinese torture begins.

The

heat which

we would have avoided on the Koshut mountain path has begun. They say the snow in Urumchi has It is now very early spring. already melted. In the evening we reprimanded Suleiman for He is his habit of letting his whips pass over human backs. astonished: “How shall I deal otherwise with a Dungan or Chinese?

Does he understand reason?

you take him.

went

him

Why

do you think that the Dungan mafakesh

so quickly yesterday a

good

in such

kick.

manner

Either he takes you or

?

Because from early morning

But to-day he probably will come

are they living here •

•

—a whole

•

•

we gave

late.”

chain of

And

evil.

•

April 6th

A

hot day.

surrounding

it.

First the desert

with

After passing eight

[268]

many mounds and p’o-t’ai we entered a

rocks

beau-

KARASHAHR — DZUNGARIA We

gorge.

tiful

went through

During the

to migrate.

saw only one caravan of mules and two is

no

life is

seen

entire

The

riders.

From

truly nothing but a stony desert.

until half past four,

De-

Probably the water disappeared

way.

and the people were forced

Bluish-

p’o-t’ai.

Complete lack of water.

black bronze rocks, all-creviced. stroyed langars on the

for several

it

If

we

greatest road

seven in the

on the road.

day

morning

we had gone by

Urumchi to-morrow. We stay over night in Argai Bulak. An isolated latigar amid bronze mountains. They say that here was also war with Andijan. High in the sandy rock is seen a cave. The trails to it are entirely the

mountain path, we would be

in

crumbled. •

•

•

•

•

April 7th

On

account of the inhuman Governor-General

much more

is

from the rock, unsuspected,

is

com-

Amidst the sands

beautiful in Ladak.

a vivid green strip of grass

are

Varied sand forma-

pelled to proceed through the hot gorge. tions; all

we

suddenly seen.

means

It

that

flowing a spring of ringing water

is

To

which spreads over the sand.

be sure, one could easily gather

the precious fluid into a constructed canal the stony road; but of course the

;

one could

improvment

easily repair

of the country

does not enter into the schedule of occupations of the Chinese administration. plain.

E.

I.,

.

After a small crossing

stifling

from the

but an old monster!”

same

York

to

as to say

to

enter the burning

heat, says, “This

—

it

heat.

die

via

Turfan and out of

One can imagine how

from heat

in

It is just

an American: “You can go from

Chicago but only

is

not a governor

stupid and inhuman.

is

New

Orleans.”

amidst the milky mists, glows azure Toksun. distance

is

Really to compel foreigners to take four

extra days of burning road

the

we

its

Amidst Only one

nine-hundred-foot pit

easily in

Turfan.

[269]

summer even

New sands, day’s

rises

the

the natives

ALTAI-HIMALAYA In

Toksun

We

up from the furrows.

springs

many

river dividing into

with blood.

to us all covered

And

his persecution

because he does not

It is

our arms and

who

came

latter

necessary for us to

stration to the

whole province.

Sung only

at the base of all this, the

has ordered

would conduct themselves

with an

started

chiefly directed against

is

the fighting

all

a

This brute does not understand

But

steal.

responsible for

is

on the shore of

only there would

If

To-day the dawn

get rid of Suleiman quickly.

himself

...

thick verdure

Suleiman battered up Sung and the

ugly fight.

reason.

are standing

tributaries.

not be dissension again!

running

A

the trees are already vividly green.

them If

—he who has confiscated

carried sealed as a

we had

differently.

o’clock the heat does not diminish

Tu-t’u

It

demon-

the revolvers the is

men

hot; even at five

and the night brings no

cool-

ness into the tents.

Toward evening they bring the horses to the river. They walk them up and down before us. Will we not buy? The price is

from 300

back

The

a black stripe.

is

A

to 1,000 Ians.

zebra of kulan.

Is

beautiful light-bay horse.

On

the

posture of the head reminds us of a

there not in the species of Karashahr horses,

a cross with the kulan?

At

twilight the

How

Russian.

girl.

From

stars of

a Russian is

com-

a dark

little

here she herself is

rings out the soft complaint

There came the revolution.

She ran away.

Came

appears in a Chinese

anxious again to go to I

Toksun

is

speaks

her thirteenth year her family sold her to

speak about with them.

there.

And

Semirechye.

disappeared.

relatives

to

under the

life.

Dungans.

woman

appears that his wife

It

He

doctor comes.

pink trousers and a blouse; and with her

And

of her

that?

woman from

Cossack ing, in

is

Dungan Chinese

my

famine.

attire.

“I

They

are

country.

bought for myself a

little

[270]

Her

And now the Cossack am weary I have nothing And now we are dirty. ;

My girl, a

husband wants Sart.

I

to be

paid twelve

— KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA made for myself a kind of tent out of linen and put it in the room in order to cover their dirt. In Urumchi many of our Cossack women, because of need, have married Chinese. The educated ones and good dressmakers married Dungans. “Here are many scorpions. Beware at night. Turfan and Ians for her.

Toksun I

I

A

are notorious for their scorpions.

Then

screamed with pain for three hours.

around

a string

my

finger

little

And

Be

careful.”

goes into the dusk with the

husband foreign-to-her and with the purchased she calls Eudoxia.

me

bit

they tightly tied

and applied opium.

The Cossack-Dungan woman

one

whom

little girl,

so the Tu-t’u sent us not only into a

furnace but also into the city of scorpions.

is

The

hot at night.

It is

astonished that until

now human

goes on openly and businesslike.

mands there

of the Tu-t’u, presented

is

a flowery

George

grasshoppers chirp ceaselessly.

command •

this

Maybe in the list of the comby him to the British Museum,

about the sale of •

And

beings are sold.

•

•

human

beings.

•

April 8th

we

Because of the cruelty of the Governor-General horrible day.

On

desert.

We

dragged ourselves through the burning stony

the horizon the hot air

transformed into

a

into the heat.

been in Urumchi.

America. to

gray

pitiless

Only

We

The

a-quiver.

far-off

plain.

are

The far-off mountains we might, by now, have

would have already read news from

But because of the despotism of a monster we have

shall stop in the langar of

our way,

East.

foothills for three

more

days.

We

Pasha Tsaigan.

we have been

justified in destroying the

and Far

all

to think that

tramp needlessly over the

On

is

become dense and the mirages melt and

inexistent lakes

merge

spent a

thinking:

The Europeans

monumental conceptions

Here we have seen caves

pilfered

But when the time of the regeneration of Asia [271

]

are not

of the

and

shall

Near

stripped.

come, will

— ALTAI-HIMALAYA “Where

she not ask,

are our best treasures,

which were con-

structed by the creative spirit of our ancestors?”

have been better, in the

monuments,

name

carefully retain

preservation?

Instead of

Would

of knowledge, to study

them and

cases of frescoes

parts

of

these

fragments of frescoes were taken

this,

were destroyed by

monumental

the

all

not

create conditions fostering

away, only to perish because of change of climate.

whole

it

In some countries

rats.

constructions

In Berlin,

are

piled

up

in

the

museums with no indication as to their original purpose and meaning. Our friend Pelliot is right not to destroy these monumental constructions, but to study them and publish his researches about them. Let individual works of art move freely on our planet, but the deeply conceived composition of construction

Bodhisattva

then

The

must not be destroyed. is

in

Europe and

if

world speedy reach,

first

of

all

Where purifies

the world of learning

fragments of the frescoes of Gozzoli or Mantegna were

be scattered in different countries?

to

that the head of a

painted boots are in Asia.

What would

and preserves and restores? say

is

knowledge which

the disinterested

is

its

result

Soon over the whole

All distances will be within

steel birds will fly.

and not ragged skeletons but evidences of

must meet these winged

a high creation

guests.

During the whole of to-day we saw only one small caravan and only one

of mules is

The dead

rider.

silence of the great road

comparable only to the lethargy of contemporary China. Youth

will

come and

the deserts will flourish.

In the ya\htans the candles have melted; the yellow sun hides

To-morrow should be

behind the amber mountains.

we

shall

go beyond the mountains

cooler

into the first zone of the Altai

climate. •

•

«

•

•

April gth

We

are passing the last ridges of the [

272]

Heavenly Mountains of

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA We

T’ian Shan.

road

pass beside the route to Turfan.

an old Chinese

is

some one sought

were

with half-erased inscriptions and

stela

with care the signs and milestones.

to preserve

Farther on, our road branches

Our

—one road goes through the moun-

and the other along

a river

people debate a long time, as

The

a state affair.

All this

passes.

the cross-

There, long since, in the depths of the centuries,

ornaments.

tain passes

On

with

fifteen fordings.

the direction of our road

if

council has decided to go through the

being discussed so seriously in order that

is

But the

should realize the seriousness of the crossing.

antici-

Both crossings are very easy and bear no

pations are in vain.

comparison with Ladak and Karakorum.

mountains to

we

a small river.

The

We

descend from the

ruins of an old fort are visible.

Against the dark blue background of the mountains, shines out

We

unexpectedly a light golden sand peak. lives a

holy man.

Formerly he used

Now

no one

little

chapel stands there.

a legend

is

sees

him, but

we know he

show himself

to people.

A

lives there.

kind of

But the doors are not seen.”

Thus

being created.

Again we go by can believe that

whole

to

“There

are told:

a

this

narrow,

bumpy

village road

the biggest or rather the only artery of a

is

which contains the metropolis.

district,

and no one

It is

strange and

even monstrous to see such deterioration of an entire country.

One

thing

is

beautiful

— the

soft bells of a

These are the true ships of the

We

stop in

Tapan ch’eng

marched eleven hours.

Urumchi

it is

now

E.

long row of camels.

desert.

(the city of the Pass).

I.

even kissed her

only twenty-two

p’o’t’ai.

It is

have

horse.

•

•

•

•

To

very hot during

The stars twinkle with unusual brightness. For time we heard the gongs of the little Chinese temple.

the day. first

little

We

the

•

April io In the evening a buran sprang up.

[273]

We

fastened the tents

ALTAI-HIMALAYA down with

all

we

weights and

At two

house.

service

it

stronger.

heaped the ya\htans around for

spent the wretched night in the trembling

we

could not find out what kind of night

By morning the shamal became even Everything was obscured in a gray-yellow dust. The could

be.

During the

mountains disappeared.

entire

crossing

ceeded against the whistling waves of the whirlwind.

we

On

approach to the capital of the Tu-t’u, the villages became

more bedraggled. The road more murderous and

still

products

little

o’clock during the night the gongs sounded in

But

the temple.

We

our spikes.

is

is still

the still

worse and the types of Dungans

savage.

The

Here

incomprehensible.

pro-

difference of prices for

ten eggs cost one sar,

and

The same with

fuel

in the next village they are half the price.

and forage.

A are to

gray desert with white layers of

moving about and

the

tails

salt.

The waves

of the horses are curling.

of dust It is

easy

imagine that the whirlwinds of Asia can overturn a loaded

arba with

fifty

They were little

puds (two thousand pounds) or can stop

a troy\a.

special difficulties in pitching the tents in the dirty

village

The

of Ts’ai-o-pu.

tents

in

fluttered

the wind,

everything was atremor and a layer of dust instantly covered everything.

And

so

we

amidst the muffled knocks of the

sit,

storm, amidst the layers of sand and to

go through

this furious

show

us his country in

with dust and the sand the blows of the

Why

did

we have

shamal when by now we could have

been three days in Urumchi? to

dirt.

its

Apparently the Tu-t’u wanted

complete dejection.

grits against the teeth.

wind remind

Our eyes fill The noise and

us of the tremendous seas vividly

chronicled in the newspapers during our

last

crossing of the

Atlantic.

Sometimes the formations of the mountains particularly suggest

the fusion of

multi-colored fluids, and often

[274]

the desert

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA The shamal

thunders with the chords of the ocean.

does not

stop by evening as our caravaneers hoped.

April

nth

This story

Kalmuck

army was pursuing

a

He

evoked the gale

to his aid

self

galloped away.

But

as there

And

was no one

The

giant.

of

It

to conjure the gale, so

glimmer with

snowy

the shamal

it

now

is

has remained.”

The

cleared.

their

it

faint outlines

Steely

crests.

become freezing during the

has

strong.

the gale scattered the Chinese forces.

gleam below, surrounded by white borders of continues.

was

giant

from the mountains and he him-

To-day part of the horizon has of mountains

“The Chinese

told in explanation of the gales:

is

The

salt.

pinches the cheeks and makes the eyes water.

We

gale

Instead

night.

which

freezing Siberian siver\o,

a

lakes

take out our

we have to experience all the peculiarities of the local climate. The desert has changed into naked, grayishyellow, silent mounds. The mountains in the distance are azure. The road is not a short one. Judging by the time it will take,

fur coats.

Apparently

Far away, between two

there are fourteen p’o-t’ai.

point out

Before

Urumchi

we

to us.

reach the Chinese city

There

Russian concession. Russian type.

Shop);

they

hills

We

“Yuveleer”

a

is

we

broad

the names:

read

pass through a former

street

“Conditerskaya”

Bardigine

(Jeweler);

with low houses of

Company.

(Pastry .

.

.

The

messenger from the firm of Belyankhan arrives and takes us to the living quarters

two rooms and in they

which

a foyer.

would have

distasteful to

all.

to take counsel

pletely filled in

are prepared

But

We go to G., Urumchi.

low white house with

a difficulty arises: In order to let us

to dispossess

with him.

—a

It

two

foreigners

this

is

so

the representative of Belyankhan,

appears that everything

There are no houses.

to stay in yurtas outside the city. [

— and

275

It ]

is

better.

We

is

shall

comhave

George gallops

ALTAI-HIMALAYA away with G. to find a site for our camp. Some curious people walk around us and they all insistently want to know who we are, where we come from, for what purpose and for how long, how

many

We

people are with us, and what

“Keep smiling.”

the signs

It

called the

conversation

Yes, yes, this sign

an entire table

appears that to-day

is

an important day.

with

filled

The

for-

Tu-t’u

him and announced to them that he had them. At the beginning of March mobili-

to

no complaint against

zation took place and called out, but that the

it

was announced that every one was

Dungans were not needed. The Dungans

were troubled, especially since the Dungan discharged from some posts. of

also needed.

is

is

Dungans

about our

is

about the intensity of work; about

at the G’s, there

For dinner eigners.

life there,

in the cases.

The

have dinner with the G’s.

America, about the

is

Dungans had been

In the city

officials

itself a

had been

dangerous band

Following the mobilization,

operating.

about 10,000 soldiers were sent toward Hami. •

April

•

•

•

•

1 2th

morning our people have refused to move beyond the town to the yurtas. They are afraid of being attacked by robbers. With George we went to C., to Chu-ta-hen, to Fan (who is in charge of the foreign section) and to the Tu-t’u himself. For Since

a

we

long time

passed through the Chinese

long rows of shops. Kashgar.

go

way

is

He was

office.

to

C.

via

The products

a sympathetic Italian

astonished at

all

who

Chuguchak, through

who

is

varied than in

in charge of the post

our experiences, and advised us Siberia,

that our friend, Allen Priest, went.

Chinese

more

are

Triple walls;

city.

Japan

—the

Chu-ta-hen

He

speaks several languages.

to

smiles,

is

a

same

young

and becomes

indignant about the events in Khotan and Karashahr, and assures us he

is

ready to help.

go through

all sorts

He

takes us to

of gates

and

Fan and

alleys;

[276]

the Tu-t’u.

we have

tea

We

with both

KARASHAHR — DZUNGARIA dignitaries,

and both

offer us

much

sugar and assure us that

Khotan and Karashahr mistakes were committed by the officials; that we are great people and that is why we must pardon in

They

small people. recur,

assure us that a thing of this sort will never

and that we can be absolutely calm,

any investigation

—not

a

We

word.

But

as to

all

these

go back through

Entire alleys filled with ginghams, hosiery, cheap

long bazaars.

At home

crockery and popular pictures. surprise.

Urumchi.

in

E.

meets us with a

I.

At the very moment when the Tu-t’u was assuring us and help and good

of his friendship

will,

our house was being

searched in great detail by the Chief of Police, accompanied

Again E.

was questioned about our

by

a Tartar translator.

art

works; again the same absurdity was committed from begin-

How

ning to the end. Tu-t’u

can one believe the assurances of the

?

After dinner

I

go

to arrange a passage

Siberia, just as for Priest.

To

two weeks. are

I.

crowded.

we may

and

into

more comfortable

To-day

I

is

moving

succeed in lodgings.

I

—

all

some one

is

the houses

leaving the

at least for a short

Keep smiling!

spoke to three Chinese higher

fifty-two years old;

not arrive before

impossible

say that in five days

city

so

The answer may

find better quarters

They

through Altai through

time

Keep smiling!

officials,

thus: “I

am

have been honorably received in twenty-

No one in my life ever prohibited me from working freely on my peaceful art-work. No one in my life has ever arrested me; no one in my life has ever taken away my revolver as a means of defense. No one in my life has ever sent me forcibly in a direction which I did not desire. No one in my life has convoyed prisoners together with me. No one has ever No one has ever refused to take into treated me as a robber. three countries.

consideration

the

matter of health.

Now

request of

a

middle-aged lady based on a

But the Chinese

our only desire

is

officials

have done

all

this.

to leave as speedily as possible the borders

[277]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA of China where they insult so flagrantly the peaceful cultural

expedition of America.”

The Governor-General and the Vice-Governor do not comment. They give assurances that in Urumchi no one will touch me. But behind our backs at the same moment All this was said.

they are

making

all cases

and trunks.

and E.

a search

Keep

I.

has, without reason, to

open

smiling!

April 13th

We most

some

search for

This night they have stolen a

difficult.

During the night

high wall was broken and the horse was taken

a

The dogs

out of the stable. thieves

worked and

will not find

The

barked.

hostlers slept.

Of

the horse disappeared.

But maybe one can buy

it.

Urumchi it is horse from G.

In

sort of suitable house.

The

course the police

back from the local

it

Kirghiz.

The drums

With

thunder.

regiment marches.

red banners, the newly formed

But F. (the director of

Real ragamuffins.

Look at Wonderful bands they are!” Keep

the Russo-Asiatic Bank), calms us: “This the soldiers near

Hami.

is

nothing.

smiling!

Smilingly the Chinese

you

to relate in

attitude

tell

America

all

take photos in Tun-huang.

It is

this

on

interesting

However,

his

On

way

does not

know how

the so-called imperial road,

here, he

was under the

fire

He

relates

was

of the

organized than the Siberia.

very strange

in the six

volumes of

to return to

interesting to hear the tales of those

way.

A

your adventures.”

will be for

it

have long ago been reproduced.

He

F. arrives.

“How

Also they did not permit Priest to

toward themselves.

Pelliot these caves

us:

who were

it is

state

troops.

many

horrors.

[278]

He G.

trapped in

impossible.

arrested, detained,

Hunghutze who

Shanghai.

While

and afterward he

are sometimes better

tells

arrives.

of past

New

events in tales

about

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA the atrocities of the regiment of Anenkoff:

hacked to pieces the families of sixteen having

first

attacked

women.

the

all

How

the officer, V.,

regiment,

officers in his

Where

the image of

is

humanity ? •

•

•

•

•

April 14th

A

of Bogdo-ula

which

is

glistening.

One may wonder;

“live holy people.”

Drums,

begins.

would be

calls

is

to

examine more

are the so-called generals

commerce and

education.

no minister of transportation;

if

so,

mysterious system of industry?

Industry asked one sick the latter said:

man

“The same

When

and

One hopes that how could one

How

?

does

And where

the Minister of Education enlighten the people? this

the psy-

closely

account for the exasperating condition of the roads

is

site

To-day the holiday of Ramazan

?

Here

officials.

ministers of finance, of there

has not a

from the mosques and crowds of people.

interesting

chology of the local

the mountains

These are the same mountains beyond

been reserved for them in Altai

It

The snow on

vivid day, full of sunshine.

the Minister of

about the condition of his health,

your industry.”

as

And

the Tu-t’u

“modestly” said that the grateful population had erected a monu-

ment

to

The

him

for the prosperity of the district!

system of taxation

is

remarkable.

For example,

gold mines, taxes are being assessed according to the of

workmen,

Now

Of

course,

leads to the depletion of the gold-bearing

into the shall

little

number

quite irrespective of the results of the works.

on the Black Irtysh there are 30,000 people excavating. all this

at the

house near the Russo-Asiatic Bank.

We

move Probably we

soil.

have to stay there two weeks. •

•

•

•

•

April 15th Tales about the Tu-t’u. times tried to replace

The Peking government

him but

has

many

the shrewd Tu-t’u has gathered

[279]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA signatures

from the

of the population”

Yan

of

local beys

and sent

made up by him

to

Peking the “petition

saying that only the presence

had guaranteed the peace of the country.

the Tu-t’u

the peace of the province of the Tu-t’u

But

the peace of Death.

is

This administrator affirms that the construction of factories and the development of manufacture creates a workers’ class and that is

why one must

not develop industry and build factories.

In 1913 this administrator suspected his eight relatives of treach-

He

ery.

therefore arranged a banquet, invited

own

during that dinner, with his

and the guards

the

at

same

all

and

officials

hands, shot the chief suspect;

table

made an end

seven

to the

In 1918 the Tu-t’u had a grievance against one of the

others.

He sent the disfavored one to Hami and on the way Amban was “pasted with paper” and by this unique method

Ambans. the

In the “Garden of Tortures” of Mirbeau this

he was strangled.

invention of evil was omitted.

Of ment

course the collection of funds for the erection of the

monu-

was conducted throughout the whole

district

for the Tu-t’u

by forced subscriptions.

And

“from the grateful popula-

as a gift

tion” appeared an ugly copper figure with gilded epaulettes

For the improvement of the morale of

stars.

Tu-t’u prohibits

them from subscribing

the best Chinese newspapers.

It

is

his officials, the

to the foreign as well as

monstrous to see

these

all

medieval measures in the days of the evolution of the world. a

few

sensitive

young

sad smile of the

officials, it is

Amban Pan

in

very

Aksu.

difficult. I

I

is

forget that the population

for

who

why

For the

his only

There

is

one

very old, and his “benevolent” strangulation of

the huge country cannot continue for long.

officials

remember

understand

newspapers were from the postmaster Cavalieri. hope: the Tu-t’u

and

One should

not

remembers well those few Chinese

did not pillage and did not manifest their hatred

humanity.

They speak highly [

280

]

of

a

certain

Taotai

of

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA They remember

Chugutchak.

father of our acquaintance

was buried, the whole

When

from Aksu.

city

warmly Pan-Tajen,

well and

the

the old Pan-Tajen

accompanied the funeral procession.

Unlike the usual custom, the old

official

did not leave any

money

because he did not take any bribes.

To-day

is

the holiday of

colored dress.

The

Ramazan. The

people pay

city

is

attired in vividly

In the morn-

each other.

visits to

ing about two thousand people listen to the sermon of a Mullah in the

open

field.

Two Chinese

visits

— Chu-ta-hen and Fan, with

The young Chu-ta-hen openly sympathizes with us and his keen eyes can look straight at us. Fan more often averts his eyes. Now he has the new excuse that all our difficulties have come from the Peking government which did not notify translators.

But from October 12th until to-day

Sinkiang about our coming.

Fan had enough time

to get in

no need

fault of

April

to

blame the

touch with Peking and there

is

Sinkiang on Peking.

1 6th

Strange information reached us about the pillage of the

Tun-huang.

coes of

If this

report

is

true,

fres-

then such vandalism

has to be investigated as an entirely unlicensed destruction of a

They

uniquely preserved monument.

say,

“Some American”

merchants came, cut out pieces of the frescoes and succeeded in carrying

away “many

cases.”

seems that Chinese pursued the

It

robbers but, as usual, were unsuccessful; and as a result the

ment

is

defaced.

The world

of learning should not fail to in-

vestigate the destruction of this Priest,

who

Of

unique shrine.

course, Allen

probably was in Tun-huang during the

give authentic and detailed information. this fact for

information.

monu-

We

can only

How indignant would

he learn about the destruction of the

[281]

fall

set

may

down

be Pelliot should

monument which

he studied

— ALTAI-HIMALAYA Here the whole foreign colony knows about

and wrote about.

what happened. Just

now

a regiment

is

passing in the

that this collection of ragamuffins can

The shrewd

Tu-t’u

times he calls into the

show

Is

street.

possible

it

any one ?

resistance to

playing on these torn strings.

is

Dungans; now the Moslems; again

the

life

Kalmucks and then

Some-

Or he may bring

the Kirghiz.

out vari-

colored roosters and announce that he whose roosters will conquer, shall be

And

first.

prepared to conquer his the administrator. plot

existing

genuity.

We

.

.

or

Or, a

the rooster of a certain color

also, the

administrator

The

may

slavemaster

invent a non-

Tun-huang.

looting of the mosques of the Trans-Caspian district

And

are cut out this

mean?

much

has

in-

.

are indignant about the plundering of

tioned.

already

thus accomplishing the desire of

rivals,

revolt.

is

in

and Is

is

also

The men-

Merv, the Oasis of Anou, valuable mural

tiles

What

does

looted. it

Damascus

is

also destroyed.

possible that certain cosmic laws are being

“Those, going toward the abyss, continue the path of

fulfilled.

their destiny, in tremor.”

So

it

said in the teachings of the

is

wise concerning the fulfillment of dates.

April 17th

During the long

dreamed

travels events are slipping by; only lately

and

of a trip to the Easter Islands,

now

the submersion of these islands three years ago. that the giants abysses, is

of Atlantis have forever been

and the flow of the cosmos

fulfilling

its

became of

first

Is it

merged

us of

possible

in the

Sanrana of Buddhism

deserts,

some of the smaller

And

new

magnitude.

thousand population sank into the

this

tell

During the period of our

unalterable course.

marches through mountains and stars

—

they

we

sea.

[282]

a

island with ten

Lakes have dried up and

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA new unexpected

The cosmic energy

currents gushed forth.

firms the steps of the evolution of humanity. missible” fairy tale refuse

of

Yesterday’s “inad-

The

already being investigated by science.

is

being burned and the ashes are fertilizing the seedlings

is

new

con-

conquests.

In the silence of the suburb of Urumchi, one speaks in a comprehensive

about the

way about the tasks of the evolution of humanity, movement of nations, about knowledge, about the and sound. ...

significance of color this

broad reasoning.

.

.

.

Some

gratifying to listen to

It is

islands have

new

depths and out of the depths have arisen

merged

into the

ones, powerful ones.

April 18th

A

journey out of town arranged by

ta-hen.

of hell.

Yan Chang Lu and Chu-

We visited the temple “of the god-devil,” with a portrayal A poor temple. The images are ugly. Chu assures us

that this

is

Buddhism but afterwards he himself

such “popular primitive religion” has nothing in

Buddhism.

Hell

is

long space on the

confesses that

common

represented very undecoratively.

floor

A

recently completed:

is

In an ob-

arranged a group of shoddy figures,

unique garden of

grinding the sinners with millstones.

with a press covered with

with

nails.

mens; they are boiling them

tortures.

They

They

They

are crushing

are

them

are ripping their abdo-

in tar; they are tearing

them

apart

with hooks and are injuring the extremities of the sinners by

all

the possible measures within the compass of Chinese fantasy. Especially revolting self-satisfied

is

the conduct of the righteous ones,

and arrogant, watch the

and balconies of Paradise.

It

is

tortures

a pitiful

Afterward we

little

bridges

not indicated to what section

of hell the Tu-t’u himself will be assigned.

makes

from

who,

All this curio-museum

and meaningless impression. visit

the statue of the Tu-t’u with

[283]

all its lifeless

ALTAI-HIMALAYA copper “grandeur”; then the pavilions and the pond which the Tu-t’u has constructed.

Tao temple

river, to the

him

side of

god of

is

somewhat

better

the

This

god of thunder; and

a dinner

may well astonish one. From Bogdo-ula, clouds

We

which

is

city

named,

we have little

its

more

soli-

seen

is

hills.

seen in Chinese

sitting

interest;

on the

is

a

there.

are rising.

It

ganize a club.

many It is

The

becomes cold toward

The red temple, after which Toward evening again a game

crowd of people.

nationalities;

floor.

have to find time to go to old Urumchi

shall

is

and then

with B.; the broadness of his views

ten versts away.

In the yard all

to

very soon becomes intoxicated and his son

satisfying conversation

evening.

due

is

the nearby rock

and of

with the tiresome

Yan Chang Lu sends him home.

is

From

unattractive

it is

old

A

this

is

After this there remains to be seen the temple of the

Turkestan.

tea

Probably

the surrounding mountains and

all

one

impression of the temple

the most satisfying spot that

is

On

the god-of-all-gods.

is

The

insects.

finer.

and

city

ascend a mountain behind the

god of horses and animals; on the

on the mountain.

tary location

whole

and

we

which

in

a six-armed

is

other side

the

Later

simple, •

human. •

new

of pegs.

Swings, exercises, May-poles;

There

children.

the

•

•

is

It is

also a project to or-

joyous to behold.

•

April igth It

much eral

become

has

cold.

discomfort.

On

This does not save the god of water from account of the drought the Governor-Gen-

gave orders that the god of water be taken from the temple,

and that savages

his

hands and

who whip

feet

be chopped

the

We

have read about

the gods because of their lack of zeal, but

appears that these savages live in is

off.

Governor-General

who

Urumchi and

considers

[284]

it

that their leader

himself a master

of

— KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA who knows whether

But

Chinese science.

Did he not have

lazy one?

the hostile intention of stirring

the people against the Governor-General

may

of gods one to the

expect

sorts

all

The

“government.”

god was simply

the

With such

?

a

up

number

a

of alliances of those hostile

accustomed

local inhabitants are so

to

such an administrator that the strangest things begin to seem to

them

One cannot

quite natural:

One cannot newspapers

—

this

oil

—

this

natural.

is

One cannot

this is natural.

One cannot have

natural.

is

—

a doctor

receive

— this

is

Everything becomes natural.

natural.

From ground

prospect for

build factories

smoke

the mountain crevices curl clouds of fire

of coal

is

—the under-

creeping out and the most precious resources

of the country are vanishing.

Toward Ku-ch’eng,

in the Valley of

traces of a butchery of

many

Death,

How

And

But the province

will he

come ?

Who

the silence of the cemetery will be the

difficult to

it is

They

come? ?

In

understand which tomb

Hami

from the bazaars into the

racks frees the city from a dangerous element. the fate of these

arms ?

armed gangs and upon

A

pass bands of raga-

say that the Tu-t’u believes that

forcibly gathering the ragamuffins

Shanghai newspaper

bar-

But what will be

whom

will they turn

arrives

with a descrip-

an assault by Chinese armies on an American mission and

the killing of the missionary.

have upset one, but else?

will

will begin the internal revolt

in the direction of

muffins, called soldiers.

tion of

Who

first.

During the night

their rusty

is

only the cemetery vies with this great calmness.

will this calmness of death explode?

Whence

heaps of bones

Most of these dead ruins

thousands.

stand as witnesses of butchery and treason.

“calm.”

lie

They

ask us

Formerly,

now no one whether we

give us permission to

go

to

is

this

information would

even astonished.

And how

are sure that the Chinese will

Chuguchak? [285]

We

answer,

“And

ALTAI-HIMALAYA where thing

is

When we

violence.

ask us “Is

tives

They

possible.”

it

relate cases of

tell

us that every-

absurd prohibitions and

are astonished at the “local affairs” the na-

possible that in

know about Sinkiang?” reality we would never have Bogdo-ula snow

fell

;

America and Europe they do

we had known one-half continued our way through

not

On

They

Chinese put us?”

else will the

of the

If

one has to light the

China.

stoves.

April 20th

During the night everything became white.

we have

since line

It is

a long time

snow mountains with all their fine crystalMountains, mountains! what magnetic forces are

lines.

seen

What

concealed within you!

a

symbol of quietude

is

revealed

The legends of the greatest valor are conceived near mountains. The most human words find outlet on snowy heights. Toward evening, snow fell also in the valin every sparkling peak!

leys,

and the whole

We

kevich comes.

district

took on a wintry character.

speak about

all

the subjects near to us

wanderings and adventures; they comprise a complete inexpressible places

And

charm

and on

lies

invisible

this accessibility

—his

epic.

An

in the fact that people leave their native

wings make the earth small and

is

Tsen-

accessible.

the beginning of the attainment of far-off

worlds. •

•

•

•

•

April 2 1 st

snowy

snow

since

It

is

strange.

F. does not believe in the horror of

some quarters

in

Bombay.

He

There

and

is

blue.

cages with

women

morning.

exist.

Bogdo-ula appeared

all

cannot believe that these shameful

But every chauffeur knows

without any desire on your part takes you to see

it,

this hell

for the existence of this, that the earth has endured so

—

and is

it

many

thousands of years?

M.

says,

“The Chinese

desire to be left in peace.”

[286]

I

agree and

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA I

always stand for the inviolability of freedom

to be

—but

then

has

it

The most unpardonable

fundamental and not hypocritical.

things on earth are hypocrisy, ignorance and treason.

April 22 nd

By

six in the

morning

all is

ula creep billows of milky clouds.

“The of

went

old lama

wisdom.

He walked

who was wringing the water

from the man

as to

But the

jushri.

.

.

.

forth to look for Manjushri, the ruler a

long distance and finally he saw a

out skins.

from the

Along Bogdo-

covered with snow.

skins!

Before

him

Complete

stood a

little pail

The lama

dirt.

whether he had heard of the path

man

him

only offered

man with

inquired to

Man-

drink from the dirty

a

The lama was dismayed and hastened quickly away. But he met a clairvoyant lama who reproved him saying, “Stupid

pail.

lama; you met Manjushri himself and the very dirt would have

become

a beverage of

you had had the courage

if

to

So do they speak of the courage of contact with Matter.

taste it.”

Very

wisdom

significant are the conversations of these days.

The

Olets

know

The

Torguts.

slander against this legend becomes

comprehensible.

about

Issa as

of the legend about Issa as well as

Every

lama

enlightened

about any other historical

still

speaks

do the

more

in-

confidently

fact.

Highly interesting are the words of At-Tabari about the promission

phetic

Kings”)

:

“The

of

Mohammed

(“History

of

Prophets

revelation of the divine messenger

impartations of truth, which

came

to

him

as the

and

began with

morning glow.

Then he was filled with the desire for solitude and remained in the cave on Mount Hira. And so to him came the eternal True One and said ‘Mohammed, thou art god’s messenger.’ “ ‘I knelt,’ God’s messenger says, ‘and I waited. Then I slowly left.

My

heart

was trembling.

enwrap me, enwrap me, and

my

I

came

fear

[287]

to

left.

Hadija and said to

And He came

again

— ALTAI-HIMALAYA and

me: “Mohammed,

said to

Messenger of God.”

The

am

I

Gabriel,

and thou

art the

” .

.

me”

exclamation “Enwrap

gives authentic occult character

to the narrative.

“Varaka the son of Naufal divine revelation which

Would

that

expel thee!’

might

I

—‘Shall

I

was

Mohammed,

said to

sent to Moses, the son of

which thou

be expelled by them?’

man

the

thy people shall asked.

appeared with that aroused

hostility

In truth they shall consider thee a blasphemer.

and

harass thee, shall exile thee

of

is

Umran.

Mohammed

appeared, without having

hast

against himself.

They shall The words

when

time

live until the

he answered, ‘Verily never has a

‘Yes,’

‘This

fight against thee.’

Varaka increased Mohammed’s firmness and

dis-

pelled his unrest.” •

•

•

•

•

2yd

April

Again the sun China

is

Information comes that the road to

here.

Every one without exception

absolutely impassable.

is

speaks of war, speaks of pillage, and of course of the approaching

This path

heat.

is

closed.

It

is

also strange that outside of F.

no one has heard about the exporting of the huang.

Of

course Priest must

What an crite

old hypocrite

know

is

being taught there.

are judged

all

Some

“One

say,

the robberies

recesses

And

and

it is

where nothing

letter

Bailey.

will reach

has

They

affair.

appears that this hypo-

You

by what

can imagine what

statutes of this law,

briberies ordered

is

more enlightening

by the

officials.

to

know

the hidden

“aired,” for otherwise one could not

see the thousand-year-old atrophy.

no one

from Tun-

has to study China from the front entrance

from the ocean.” But

A

It

even has a school of law in Urumchi.

“law”

that

about that

all

the Tu-t’u!

is

frescoes

him through

Of

course, the Tu-t’u thinks

the desert.

come unexpectedly from Sikhim, from Colonel write about the books that were sent to us.

[288]

But

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA the majority of

them have never reached

Probably the

America.

letters also

No

us.

news from

disappeared or are being held

back.

What

pure

air

we have

to-day! •

•

•

•

•

April 24th

We

received an invitation

affairs,

Fan, to come for dinner to-morrow.

With one hand

to prohibit everything

invite us for dinner!

not at

And It

from the Commissioner of Foreign

skillful,

all

If this

is

Is this

not hypocrisy

?

and with the other

to

diplomacy then

is

“skillful”

because a clever action

is

judged by

it

results.

of course a hypocritical dinner cannot improve our relations.

would be

better to give us permission to visit the

Incidentally, our

monasteries.

Buddhist

arms have been taken away and

have not been returned.

The sionary sheff, a

G.

of guests

list is

is

most absurd one: the Catholic mis-

a

Dutch; Kalin, a German; Cavalieri, an

Moslem; and some Chinese.

We

These “Kerjaks”

—Old

Believers

—have

Channi-

shall see.

us about the villages of “Kerjaks” in

tells

Italian;

Mongolian

preserved their

Altai.

own

cus-

toms: Their chapels, their readers of the scriptures, their food,

and

complete isolation from “worldly men.”

their

neither vodka nor tobacco.

and

In the midst of

cattle.

behind

their fences.

use

They deal in apiaries and furs, fish the Dungans and the Kirghiz stand

their three villages of fifty or sixty houses; trates

They

and nothing new pene-

Probably they keep up relations with

their fellow-believers in the Russian Altai.

And

it

strange and

is

where they

wondrous

—in

the

are praising Altai. There, the

the last

A

war

And on

in the

and there

the river Katun,

it

is

went

to Tibet

[289]

are hitherto-

said, will

world and afterward peaceful

year ago an embassy

district every-

mountains are beautiful,

the cedars are powerful, the rivers are swift

unseen flowers.

whole

occur

labor.

from Mongolia com-

ALTAI-HIMALAYA prising thirty

On

Mongols and three Russians.

border twenty Mongols and two Russians died. report they died of

may have happened

some kind

in the districts of geysers

But the

or because of winter gales.

because

it is

Of

of gases.

difficult to

fact

the

Tibetan

According

to the

something

course,

and old volcanos

meaningful, especially

is

invent such a thing.

April 25th

The

and white seaweeds, bamboo

fins of sharks, fungi, red

shoots, lotus seeds, pigeon eggs, trepangs,

and

slippery dishes.

We

finish.

They

flavor

and many other slimy

them with sweet

and

rice

roses.

In the pavilion of the Governor-General’s garden are

three tables; one entirely of Chinese, the second, entirely Moslem,

where no pork

is

served.

The

third,

is

an international one; there

are represented China, Russia, America,

it

on the ground of

is

smiling, probably because he hates

his strict vegetarianism.

full of the subtlest hypocrisy.

all

His seaweedy face

foreigners deeply

possible that

Is it

explains

and

Fan thinks

is

that

absurd dinner washes away every affront of the Khotan and

Karashahr

Not one word

officials?

is

an investigation of what has happened.

and diplomacy? parent. of

He

Fan, the host, does not eat anything himself.

Italy.

this

Germany, Holland and

On

his face

After dinner,

we

stroll

pass the statue of the

hospitable C.

The day ends

And where

only hypocrisy

—so

are politics

clear, so ap-

around the pond, on the bank

Then

which stand two junkas.

We

is

mentioned by Fan about

the low

bows of Fan.

Governor and we pay a well.

visit to

the

C. takes us by motor through

the encircling road.

A fresh wind, and very clear—truly heavenly

—mountains.

evaporation

makes the

The

far-off chains of

transparently sapphire.

from the newly

snow

mountains and peaks ethereal and

Nearer are purple

walls flooded by the sun.

fallen

It is

hills,

and dented

so vivid, so fresh

[290]

and

clay

beautiful!

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA

rww And

even “the vegetarian” hypocrite Fan, begins to be trans-

formed into

a jellied seaweed. •

•

•

•

•

April 26th

The Kirghiz

of the horned owl.

On

hood above the

eyes.

tiny

the

On

crown

the

a tuft of feathers

is

hand sometimes

They appear

their

Just like the ancient

heads are many-colored, quilted helmets.

\uya\ of Russian warriors.

On

on small white horses.

are galloping

is

with a

a falcon

group which might

like a

And

have come out of the twelfth or fifteenth centuries.

here in

the street stands the motor of C., a powerful Packard which, with-

out damage, went

The motor belonged

way through from Peking

the

all

to the Russo-Asiatic

Urumchi.

to

Bank, but the Governor-

General forbade them to use the machine and they had to at practically

Merely by

nothing.

appearance the Packard

its

reminds us that the way from Urumchi

And

tionably be traversed by motor.

sell it

Peking can unques-

to

human

only

ignorance

and hypocrisy repeat the same paralyzing “No!”

Again a cold wind.

Again the heavenly Bogdo-ula

is

a trans-

lucent blue.

Here again

we gave

a

is

a truly favorable sign:

hundred

rived to-day.

He

Ians in

Karashahr

is

and sheep.

no food. There

is

And now

no one

herd of horses cannot be

remain here

to

(at

He

whom

an encampment)

left,

to sell the animals,

so he cannot

until our departure

money and

did not succeed in selling

go with

us.

and then will return.

He walked

and the

He

us.

He

speaks with an excellent accent.

[291

]

He

is

drank

is

ten days in order

to explain the affair.

he could not go with

will

This

Up

to

now we

have seen nothing objectionable in the Tibetan-Buddhists. a pity that

ar-

the horses are thin and there

whom

typical of a fine type of Tibetan. to return the

Tibetan lama to

brought back the money, excusing himself

because he could not accompany us. his horses

A

It is

very well read and tea

and dried the

ALTAI-HIMALAYA cup.

He

in

place.

its

ate pot-cheese

We went

out of

and washed

town toward

and put the chair

his plate

the lakes.

April 2jth

He

Note the character of the negotiations with Fan: that a certain river flows eastward, but he insists

They said.

How

what he has

point out personal evidence but he persists in his

And

declaration. facts.

told

flows westward.

the maps, but he repeats

call his attention to

They

it

is

so

against evidence, against maps, against

it is

can one conduct transactions under such conditions!

The border between Mongolia and China is not clearly defined at many points. Sharasiime up to the present remains in an undefined zone. Of course the Chinese delay, in every way, the final division. •

•

•

•

•

April 2 8th Pilgrims are not permitted to enter Tibet.

gathered together secretly and

set

out for Tibet in February.

Here they know about

Will they succeed in crossing the border? the black stone

—they await the stone.

about the legend of

A

“Issa, the Best of

series of details

is

pocrisy of the Tu-t’u able

This

officials.

is

Some Khoshuts

The Buddhists

Human

communicated

also

know

Sons.”

to us regarding the hy-

and how he freed himself from undesir-

no longer old lacquered Chinese work,

but the grimace of a ruined mask.

And

the dark idol of the

Tu-t’u stands here, and on the dark body glow the gold epaulettes

and the ribbons and

legs of the idol;

One

hypocrite

Broadly spread are the copper

and Fan, with the grin of

commands, another hypocrite

the third hypocrite in

where, comes

stars.

this

Khotan

cleans his

rifle

a skull,

bows low.

secretly grins,

for treason.

From

custom in Sinkiang of making an end of

agreeable” people after dinner, behind their backs?

[292]

and

“dis-

From what

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA depths of hatred for humanity, from what centuries of darkness,

came laid is

technique of treason

this

with “scientific” degrees.

Where

are

this

Tu-t’u

is

a

condemnations of the

and of treason and

which they

lies

Throughout the

being over-

master of

sale

Fan

arts.

And where of

slavishly serve

day there

entire

is

which they

against the fetishism to

their

darkness

lawyer and a writer.

a doctor of sciences, a

their writings

And

?

are

are

prey?

human

beings

?

and

the noise of a dry

is

burning buran. •

•

•

•

•

April 2 gth

—a

After a hot buran

dry windy day.

There

whip

the

kill

animals for ten days; to

god of water

The

for the drought.

sell

and Kirghiz,

as well as

The Dungans

mock and

scorn

in-

I

it.

quire for whose benefit this absurd act of savage fetishism

conceived

It

?

seems that

for the Sinkiang Chinese. still

this,

comedy

this entire It

a prey to the primitive

means

form of

is

to

Kalmucks

Buddhists,

are simply deriding such fetishism. also

of the

no meat, and

and Tibetans

Moslems,

The

rain.

command

Moslems, Tartars and Sarts are ridiculing the Tu-t’u not to

no

is

is

invented expressly

that the Chinese alone are

fetishism.

We

did not

know

believing that the Chinese were committed to “the justice”

And

of Confucius. of his soul,

who

is

is

it

not the Tu-t’u himself, in the depths

going to whip the god of water

god of water” belongs only of the

god

to the Chinese;

?

Because “the

hence the whipping

needed for the benefit of the Chinese only.

is

And

Chinese “doctors” and “magisters” are seriously encouraging vicious absurdity.

And

the this

they occupy themselves with absurdity

very strenuously.

As

before,

each night troops of ragamuffins are being

patched in the direction of Hami. “mobilization” directed? the people’s

army

of

Against

whom

is

this

dis-

unique

Perhaps against some detachment of

Feng?

Of

course, all these ragamuffins dis-

[293]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA patched by night are not soldiers but simply fetishes unfit for

Out

anything.

Anenkoff, only two usually work. also looked

which were given by

of twenty-four cannon,

upon only

But probably the cannon are

To-day a big parade of “armies”

as fetishes.

has been ordered.

We Is

ask ourselves,

“Why

did

Fan arrange

not this the beginning of some

a dinner for us?”

In Khotan

difficulties ?

Taotai’s persecutions also started with the forty-course dinner

“We

an honorary escort and with the assurance, All in

all,

a peculiar

among

here

own measures. museum is preserved

and

are your friends.”

the Sinkiang Chinese the

meaning and we cannot approach

the

all

word

friend has

the local psychology

with our In a

people delude themselves into accepting these

of the Tu-t’u;

moribund

evil

the compilation of the ordinances

remnants

as the

fragments of former

civilizations.

People are led into error by the “scientific degree” of Tu-t’u and People are led into error, thinking

the vegetarianism of Fan.

that the remains of fetishism are solitary

hidden in

No, here

remote oceans.

islands of

marshes and in

far-off

in the capital of

Sinkiang, under the wise rule of the Tu-t’u, fetishism as the state religion

and

is

is

commands

sustained by the

set

up

of the

“ruler.”

Our

letters

and telegrams do not

they are held back. a diary. to

E.

America.

I.

If

Kam,

The policemen asked

said that the diary

E.

had been

do not doubt that I.

whether

sent

this

kingdom

I

keep

from Kashgar

only our books would not disappear!

one hide them in In

We

arrive.

Where

shall

of fetishism?

to develop the fierceness

and

liveliness of the horses,

them with dry leopard meat and pounded tea. They tell of leopard spots which appear on the rumps of the horses. Luncheon at Cavallieri’s. With the Europeans is one Chinese.

they feed

The Chu

conversation says,

“Do

is

about our

ill-fated

adventures in Sinkiang.

not judge China by Sinkiang.

[294]

Good Chinese do

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA not

come

here.”

I

better Chinese.

I

him

tell

frankly that

would be happy

to speak of

men, did not permit any avenue

We

am

hoping

still

China

to see

in terms of

the entire Sinkiang province, with the exception of

praise, but

three

I

for favorable conclusions.

compare the joyous mood we experienced

in Sikhim, in

the Himalayas, in India, in Ladak, with the prisonlike feelings in Sinkiang.

.

.

. •

•

•

•

•

April 30th Last

summer

Amdoss

stroyed in the

Amban

of

responded to

district.

Amdoss asked

his call.

“The Dungan armies

Many Tanguts

machine guns.

of Sining used

The Gegen it is

nearly seventy Buddhist monasteries were deof the

perished.

The Goloks course of the coming summer The Dungans have destroyed

the Goloks for help.

During the

possible there will be clashes.

the celebrated image of Maitreya.”

A of a

lama from Kobdo

new

collecting a

is

The Goloks have made

image.

men from each house. Dungan armies. And the

service three

erected for

being supported. it

is

ments which are apparent

In Labrang, barracks are anti-Buddhist

“Chu spoke

respectable Chinese

to the world, there goes

correctly yesterday

do not go

to this

and

He

in the desert.”

is

when he

to Sinkiang.”

He

thing will result from our protests.

customed

not correct!

Even

Kerim-bek.

It

in is

with equal indifference to the good and

that

is

we

is

to leave Sinkiang.

E.

I.

on an inner

site

declared that

“Here you get

ac-

you do to the sand

Khotan we were

able

impossible to “listen to

has

the evil.”

no

Now

illusions,

will have to face all kinds of difficulties.

[295]

F.

itself.

F. doubts that any-

says:

to everything just as

to deal with the robber

the chief task

movement

In addition to the move-

which one can appreciate only on the

agitation

knows

a rule to draft for

All of this has not been printed anywhere and

very important for the future.

repeats,

fund for the construction

she It is

ALTAI-HIMALAYA rightly said

by the Hindus: “Bring one rupee and every one

will believe; bring a million

The Orenburg told that we must is

We

horse became sick. lead

he would recover. In Lhasa

and they will doubt.”

him

So the

local “experienced” people tell us.

On

a temple of Gessar-Khan.

to the legend,

—one

either side of the

red and one white.

when Gessar-Khan

Will not the

these horses neigh.

were

twice around the Kirghiz tombs, then

entrance are the images of two horses

According

We

bled him.

approaches Lhasa

of these horses be heard

call

soon ?

We works

are discussing

From Kashgar

better than the radio.

The

messages.

six wireless

“The long

news from Sining.

there

only thing that one

ear” of Asia

no reply

is

may

to

believe

is

that the messages are being detained and, instead of their intended

some

destination, reach

entirely different place. •

May At

twelve-thirty,

•

•

luncheon with the Chinese. The court

Under

and colorfully decorated.

effectively

with

•

ist

many

vivid rugs, tables are set for a

side are standing three yurtas for the is

a big

is

very

canopy hung

hundred people. Along-

Moslems where

all

the food

prepared without pork under the special supervision of a Mos-

The

lem.

entire foreign colony

Germans, English, cials are all

He

Fan.

diet, or

Sarts,

is

does not eat anything except bread.

hatred, or the

acme

—an

old

to get

drunk

is

the

Opposite us It

is

offi-

sits

either his

of suspicion.

Here

man who

into disgrace with

his ruling brother for his liberal views.

one

Italians,

The Chinese

Kirghiz and Tartars.

present except the Tu-t’u himself.

brother of the Tu-t’u

first

There are

present.

fell

also

sits

the

During the dinner the

commander

of the fortress.

He

begins to be offensive; he breaks a few wine glasses; he pushes a lady

and

finally kicks over the tray

with ice-cream.

This

inci-

dent of the ice-cream forces the Chinese to take measures and

[296]

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA commander

the

of Police

and

of the fortress

own

his

removed by the

is

Of

soldiers.

the Chinese, the most

all

indignant at the conduct of the commandant,

He

son of the Tu-t’u.

aid of the Chief

the nine-year-old

is

even has tears in his eyes for very indigna-

tion.

A

youthful chorus sings a few songs.

“We

me,

used to come to look

when you came

door

Kuindjy and

V.

his wife,

Kuindjy!

We

less liberal

speeches, his

The memory

and so

L.,

how

recall

you through

at

Kuindjy.”

to

in

aid to students in

On

open the club.

In the evening

Amdoss

all

courses.

of Kuindjy does not rust.

new

week they

In a

a small stage of the club, they are plan-

ning to give Moslem and Chinese

the

knew

Urumchi we speak about birds; we recall his fear-

After luncheon they play pegs and tennis. will

tells

a crack in the

appears that she

It

he fed the

anonymous

Mrs. E. P. P.

plays.

reports reach us concerning the events in

about the oppression of the monasteries by

district

Chinese soldiers; about the entrance of Chinese

armies into

Labrang; about the destruction of the image of Maitreya.

The

dates are approaching.

Late in the evening

Tumbal becomes

furious; the people are

bringing a big Easter cake and eggs from G. and M.

To-morrow It is

is

Easter.

curious for us, passers-by, to hear

Sarts say about the to

movements

each other and wink:

this?

Because

escape.

And

this

“How

time, by

who must

freedom of or as he

is

will the Tu-t’u

sometimes

and

called,

now

get out of

whipping the gods, one

who must

clear

control the merchants

industrial

They whisper

China.

will not

.

They dream

away

the pillaging

the cock fight will not help.

about the unseen Cantonese

ambans;

in Central

what the Chinese and

.

.

and give the

cultural development.

district

About Feng,

Fyn, one speaks with greater reserve.

[297]

ALTAI-HI MALAYA To

But Canton draws the people’s attention.

the armies of Can-

ton are attributed qualities, existing and non-existing.

They come and extract

to

ask:

tooth.”

a

—

—

“Have you forceps?” “Why?” “Well, On our travels, amid the bonfires, the

scenes recalled pictures of Bosch or the Elder Breughel ; it

like Ostade.

is

Nevertheless, the tooth

and now

extracted and the

is

forceps are returned.

A

are laughing.

here?

It

Is

You can imagine how One may recall the anecdote

proves to be a “box of papers.”

two eminent

the

curious

godilos,

we

that?”

is

not this a Sogdi dialect, or are the Yafe-tides

combinations of idioms are created. of

“What

Chinese comes: “Kumashka-yashka.”

archaeologists

A

was discovered.

is

on which

how

lengthy discussion occurred as to

when suddenly

listening to the argument, smiled

our language

a stone slab

Razmo-cropo-godilos or Razmo-cropo-

expression,

to read the inscription,

who found

and

said, “All that

‘The weather has been

Improved combinations of

the driver of their cart,

rainy.’

it

means

in

”

different languages have a strange

effect.

As

a result

language.

A

we have little bit

who do

seen people of

Kalmuck,

becomes

is

even one

And when

two

such a

excited, he begins to talk in all five languages,

quickly, unintelligibly, but in his

Also he

know

a smattering of Tibetan,

or three Russian, Chinese and Sart words. linguist

not

own

opinion very convincingly.

very uncertain about his nationality; with unusual ease

he appears a Russian, a Chinese, a Torgut.

That

is

to say “ku-

mashka-yashka!” •

•

«

•

May 2nd

A

clear

morning.

Lamas

are

coming

to congratulate us

upon

They are saying: “Christ is risen.” Well, western clergymen, would you rejoice with the Buddhists on their holithe holiday.

[298]

.

From

a painting by Nicholas

Roerich

MONGOLIAN LAMA

Roerich Museum,

N Y .

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA We

days?

open our trunk

filled

with Buddhist pictures

the lamas, admire

hang them on the walls and, together with combined with the deep

the resonant colors

—we

scientific

symbols

of these figures.

Only knowledge without prejudice opens up

new

The

possibilities.

“incidental” of yesterday aligns

itself

with

moving files of evolution, and to-day’s “imperative” seems often to become simply an incidental experience. Yesterday, at dinner, some one told us it was improbable that we should be able to leave Urumchi soon. Can this be possible ? the

So much of the undelayable, so much of immediacy before us;

and here

is

complete

Even

friends not acting there? S. is

Or

in the telegraph or in the mail.

from now.

The

sus-

are

our

the date of the departure of

However, maybe something

not known.

in half a year

Why

Nothing from America!

pense of each day!

and

on the trunks!

Sitting

inertia.

M.

lost either

is

the telegrams will reach us

This also happens here.

The telegram

of April reached us in October.

May yd Tsampa-lama came from Kobdo; he camels in Ku-ch’eng. to the Tu-t’u, stay in,

They

had

He

and was given

a long conference

official

are awaiting the arrival of

Mongolian lamas remain under in

caravan of thirty

himself was immediately

an honor reserved for an

which reached us

left his

two

summoned a

yamen

to

not lower than the Taotai.

officials

Two

from Kobdo.

arrest as before.

The rumors

Karashahr are being confirmed.

A

tele-

gram is received about the transit vise. It means that we can move about May 15th. Here we can no longer receive the information from Sining about the Goloks.

Now we

Chuguchak and look over April 2nd, arrived only on

must attend

the

May

the telegram takes only one day.

baggage. 2nd. It

[299]

to

our carriages to

A

telegram, dated

To Bakhty

means

(the border)

that for about a

month

ALTAI-HIMALAYA the telegram

was lying

delivered a message

only there

may

in

foot one could have

from Chuguchak much more quickly.

If

not be Chinese persecutions! •

May

By

Chuguchak.

•

•

•

•

4th

Nevertheless, they chopped off the feet and hands of the poor

god of water for chopping them the Sinkiang

began

off,

when

began

it

to rain.

Is

it

and the

One

fore our arrival.

streets of

finished

possible that

Rain and snow

god needs such severe measures?

to fall

slimy mud.

They had hardly

his lack of zeal.

Urumchi changed

into black,

can imagine the condition here two weeks beIt is

not without cause that they

donkeys and horses often drown here.

would

It

tell

us that

nothing to

cost

have the merchants pave the bazaar, laying a pavement before

But here the all-powerful Tu-t’u does not exer-

each tiny shop. cise his

power.

The

the reservoirs of

“magister” of sciences

mud.

It

is

on good terms with

when he

another matter

is

necessary to shoot a suspected opponent in the back.

Chinese Emperor with an unusually high title,

a dinner

ceremony and

it

related

nobleman was honored by the

that about twenty years ago a

of the

It is

finds

was arranged by

title.

a local

For the bestowal

Amban.

a dinner of the choicest, a soldier

After the

came from out

the curtain, behind the back of the guest, and with a single swing of a saber cut off the head of the one honored by the Emperor’s favor. •

May

•

•

•

•

yth

In Turkestan one Mullah, because of the absence of an “unfaithful”

one from the mosque, gave orders

of water over his crown. “faithful” one died.

to

pour forty

After the seventeenth pail the unruly

What

is

there to

do about such logic?

Everything has started to move more quickly. drivers are found.

pails

Now we

have

[300]

Already the

to decide the route.

Three

—

:

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA alternative combinations are offered: First

motor

to

— Kuldja; from there by

Tashkent, and by a direct train to the East; the second

Chuguchak, Semipalatinsk, Novosibirsk; third

The

Zaisan, Irtysh, Semipalatinsk, Novosibirsk. tion

is

enticing,

where we go by boat along the

mountainous and going

to

some

hilly spaces.

hinder us?

would be no further was committed

went with

think that

Others think that Personally

time

this I

am

not

insolence, whereas, one of the greatest afin

Karashahr, beyond Kashgar.

town

B. out of

Dungan

in the direction of Bogdo-ula.

Rows

cemeteries.

of small \urgans

top always stands a pot, a vessel or chips of a pot; ancient \urgan

rite

The Chinese

it is

In spite of their

the dead.

for

medanism, the Dungans have kept some of customs.

through

Irtysh,

Because in Kashgar also they assured us that there

optimistic.

Endless

third combina-

Some

Opinions are divided.

the Chinese will feel a sense of shame.

We

mys,

But are not the Chinese again

sort of mischief will follow.

fronts

—Topolev

folk-religion

their

own

On

the

a sort of

Mohaminherent

and Shamanism have

left

their traces.

Filchner came.

May

seems that they permitted him

Arrangements with the

Topolev mys

drivers.

Three troy\as

to

yth

All are ostensibly amiable.

at Fan’s.

from going

that he promises not to hinder us

along the Zaisan.

in

surveys.

cost 660 Ians.

The morning

we

all

6th

Packing.

May

It

Much news

hear that the situation

payment

trict) to

is

to attract thirty

about Tsampa.

serious.

Ten

It

seems

to

Topolev mys

As

in Karashahr,

million Ians were given

Mongolian koshuns (Mongolian

dis-

the side of the Tu-t’u.

Toward evening we walked with [301

]

B.

on the

hills

surrounding

ALTAI-HIMALAYA the

Again

city.

are a

dozen

A

tragic.

is

attacked him, and in every

so,

relatives

in a closet

is

K., returned to his

and

good friends

his

man

above the young

Finally, they

where he hanged him-

monument

stands a high

with a big black cross and with a tearful

To-day

history surround-

way denounced him.

bound him and locked him

And

young man,

His

father after the civil war.

self.

The

and two monuments.

crosses

them

ing one of

In the middle of the barren field

a cemetery.

text.

.

.

.

The snow on Bogdo-ula days we shall go again on a

has

as sultry as in July.

melted considerably.

In eight

far-

off journey. •

May

•

•

•

•

8th

Rumors

“The Amban

are current:

under the pressure of the Tanguts.”

of 20,000

the Goloks are approaching?

This

army

of Sining fled with an

is

even

Is it

now

possible that

the beginning

of something prolonged.

How strange

it is

to think that here there

is

fetishism, primitive

name

spiritualism, superstition, the shrieks of Mullahs, the

Confucius

—and

breakable

vise.

everything

Soon our Geshe

is

bound together

as

of

with an un-

To-day he

tells

us that the head of the medical school in Lhasa spoke to

him

will

about “Azaras,” which in the

This

“Azaras.”

Geshe

Toin-Lama

May

is

to his mountains.

their

mountains and using

We

aid of humanity.

the

go

is

their

for the

Mahatmas

living

profound knowledge for the

have not previously come upon the word

not Sanskrit.

to tell us details! all

name

But

how

Soon he

that the latter has lost.

difficult

will leave.

Fear

is

it is

He

to force will

tell

a poor counselor.

gth

Again this will

heat, unseasonable for the beginning of

mean

rain.

Some

May.

Some

say

“console” us by saying that the heat

[302]

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA has really begun. E.

The Chinese seemingly

many

there are so

met such an “Azara”

mountains of Sikhim.

in the

The

was

the fact that there

house and that the “Azara” was unusually departed from the place.

conditions.

school told our Geshe that he him-

more than

difficult to ascertain

so complicated;

is

many unusual

questions and so

One must hasten departure. The head of the medical self

Everything

with their procrastination.

I.

are trying to persecute

Then

tall.

very same news

is

It

is

a small

the “Azara”

creeping through

Asia.

all

We

went out

of town.

The cuckoo was

were on the wing and the thunder.

How

E.

crickets chirped.

read notes about the foundations of Buddhism.

I.

beautiful

layer falls

The hoopoes Toward evening,

calling.

is

the unfoldment

when

the shell of the last

away; when labor and knowledge occupy

their fitting

place.

May

10th

The say

soldiers

it is

have stopped their

because the

Amban

drilling.

of Sining

is

It is

They

a holiday.

The

routed.

last

Peking

newspaper announces that Kansu and Sinkiang remain in the sphere of influence of the national army.

For Sinkiang

it

is

significant.

Suddenly everything has so developed that

it

is

necessary to

leave as quickly as possible.

Up

to the present time there has existed a saga about Gessar-

Khan: “To Gessar-Bogdo-Khan were sent seven heads, cut ofi from seven black blacksmiths. And he boiled the seven heads in seven

copper

kettles.

He

fashioned out of them chalices, and

And

inlaid these chalices with silver.

came seven wine.

chalices;

and Gessar-Khan

Thereupon he ascended

bestowed upon her the

chalices. [

so out of seven heads

filled these

to the wise

with a strong

Manzalgormo and

But she took the seven chalices

303

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA fashioned from the seven heads of the blacksmiths and scattered

them

into the heavens

and the seven

chalices

And

Dolan-Obogod (The Great Bear).

lation

formed the she

is

constel-

preserving

the dates.”

How

remarkably the symbols are fused into these unclear and

apparently meaningless words which the seven-starred constellation of

bind Gessar-Khan with

the north.

The Mongolian

“Gabala” and the special chalices of the Bhutanese temples the

very

same

and hopes.

strivings

Again

is

recall

repeated

the

prophecy from the Tripitaka that Buddha “indicated that his chalice

would become an

object of search at the time of the

new

achievements of the world, but that only pure bearers of the

Order would be able

to find it.”

“Ribhavas are rushing to Savitri-Sun after Soma,” according to the

wisdom

Khyil-Khor,

is

of the Rig-Veda.

enchased

In the center of the plate of

Mount Sumeru, and on

its

sides are the

four countries of the world, like great islands around at

equal distance from four oceans.

The Lama as the

proclaims, “Let

.

.

it

—a point

.

be firm as adamant, victorious

life

banner of the teacher, strong

as the eagle,

and continue

eternally.” •

•

•

•

•

May nth

We

are invited for luncheon.

sionary are also present.

seems

full of vigor.

Filchner and the Catholic mis-

Filchner, sunburned, in a leather jacket,

His task

is

a curious one.

He

connects the

magnetic researches between Tashkent and Central China.

measurements were made carries out the

ner

is

We

work

in

The

in Russia, but the Carnegie Institute

China

combining these two

at great expense.

And now

fields of investigation as

recalled his experiences with the Goloks.

Filch-

he told

He

us.

did not

reveal his exact route.

The

conversation with the missionary [

304

]

is

interesting.

He

speaks

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA new understanding

of the

of

Buddhism,

need of understanding Nirvana.

He

as well as the present

speaks of the desire for an

immediate coordination of Buddhism and Catholicism.

knowledge of occult miracles.

tions his

the literature.

May 12th On the

He

is

He men-

conversant with

It is significant.

table lies a petition signed

with a fingerprint.

An

impoverished Kirghiz makes the following complaint: Three years ago, near Manass, he

and

his nine-year-old

overnight in the house of a Dungan.

For

daughter stopped

their night’s lodging,

Dungan demanded the daughter of the Kirghiz. The Kirghiz refused. The Dungan beat him and drove him out, but he the

kept the It

girl

and has held her for three

years.

the usual occurrence here, to abduct

is

and

sell

children

with the idea of work and more often, for the purposes of depravity.

Why

call hypocritical

conferences about the slaves in

when in Central Asia and everywhere in China the sale of human beings is a common practice? All business organizations of the country know of this institution of slavery, yet none demands its cessation. Where are, then, the protests and demands ?

Africa,

We

Again the same people

for lunch to-morrow.

missionary and Cavalieri.

In the bazaar, the

Kobdo. sul

is

And

.

.

rumor.

a

march toward

Governor General

The

to the

Con-

Taotai, the Altaian

com-

of the local armies, left hurriedly for Sharasume.

circumstance confirms

still

come

—Fan, Filchner, the

rumor has spread about this

to

.

the last visit of the

connected with

mander tary

from the Governor General

received an invitation

This

further the rumors of possible mili-

movements.

[305]

ALTAI. HIMALAYA It is is

a clear and fresh day.

If

we

But

could only leave!

this

not possible before Saturday.

The

from the lower

lobes of the brain

According to the

treasure.

ment

of the dead

May

What

we saw

Mongolian lama.

is

meaning

called Ring-se,

It

a proof of materialism!

On

such a “mass” after the cremation

looks like the precipitant of amber.

13th

What

In the morning the Mongolian lama arrives.

we have wise

cremation

after

size of this mass, the psychic develop-

judged.

is

the border of Tibet, of one

which remains

stonelike metallic mass

What

joy!

gathered in spiritual teaching from the south, he

knows from

He

the north.

become

filled

T. L. was near Lan-chow for

with genuine

six

And now

the

in thought

friend

months, and each day he spoke

long time ago,” says the lama, “but about.

fills

Our

tears.

of the significance of the future of Maitreya.

would come

what

what they await; and

consciousness of the peoples and of this his eyes

relates exactly

like-

we

did

“We knew it not know how

a it

But not to

the time has come.

Mongol and Kalmuck can we tell it but only to those who can comprehend.” The lama speaks about different proofs and no one would have suspected such knowledge in this modest man. He speaks about the spiritual meaning of Altai. every

After these sincere and serious conversations, a hypocritical

luncheon with the Governor-General. corridors of the toasts.

yamen.

Again the

Again we

Again questions

fins of shark,

as to

bamboo and

assures us that the local Sarts are better than earth.

Several years ago he declared the

and even willed

now

that he be buried in a

the “current”

changed.

And

is

pass

endless

our health, again fungi. all

This host

peoples of the

same about the Dungans

Dungan

toward the Sarts and

cemetery.

his will

is

But

already

the Sarts are proclaimed to be the best nation.

[306]

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA E.

I.

“What a horrible old man.” In the manner of procession we go back through the corridors, little yards,

whispers,

a funeral

and the Governor-General pays us “the highest honors” by accom-

Not

panying us to the carriage. of the affairs at

over and

word about

a

Khotan and Karashahr,

the prohibitions against the

all

as

if

the investigation

everything were

work swallowed during

the luncheon.

One can it

way, and afterward plaster

insult, in every possible

over with the fins of shark.

in order that

we may

To-day they

will seal our trunks

not be disturbed on the border.

For three

hours the absurd, dragging procedure of opening the trunks and the useless inspection of our things, continued. this

And when

will

nonsense cease?

Toward evening, a provocation now familiar to us occurs. A When he was repulsive Dungan attacked and beat Ramsana. caught he claimed that he mistook Ramsana for a Chinese and that

A

was why he beat him.

strange explanation!

that this provocation occurs just

on the day of the luncheon

gerous places on the road to Topolev mys.

The escort They tell

Of is

course, here the

how

There

at

are robberies

Governor gives us no

necessary only where

us

queer

During the evening they warn us of two dan-

the Governor’s.

of Kirghiz.

It is

it is

escort!

safe!

the Dervishes sometimes kill the “unbelievers.”

In the crowd, or while dancing, the Dervish scratches the giaour,

with a poisoned

nail

and death sometimes follows the same day.

Medievalism! c

May

•

•

us a passport to Peking as long as

Such stupidity all objects!

my own

height.

— to write in a passport the number and description How many

Chinese of Sinkiang, a

•

14th

They gave of

•

changes

why do you

may

take place on the road!

reveal yourselves to us in such

way? [307]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA appears that our drivers are not Chinese subjects at

It

Now

but from Bokhara.

many

there are

such chameleons.

all,

An

utter absurdity with the passports!

The

volcanic traces

the

in

district

Vernyi and Tashkent are interesting. ing like a gigantic dynamo;

To-day ties

with the packing!

really leave

seems to be break-

soil

continues for months at a time.

it

Possessions

Oh, how many

—enemies

May 15th And after

Will

we

•

all

we

•

•

did not leave to-day!

The

driver refused to

All pressure and persuasions were applied, but the old

load.

man remained

as if

wooden.

The

chief reason

the

We

whole day

heard

tales

is

is

that Saturday

How

considered by Moslems an unfavorable day.

And

man!

of

difficul-

to-morrow? •

is

The

the farewell dinner at G.’s.

is

Chuguchak, Kuldja,

of

ridiculous!

lost.

about Karakirghiz

—how

Kirghiz boiled 3,000 Russian Cossacks in

in

the sixties, the

kettles.

The same

in-

formation that the Kirghiz recently boiled and burned people in ovens

is

reported.

of robberies.

rob travelers.

We

are

accompanied by a whole

The Kirghiz robbed thirty arbas. The Kirghiz The Kirghiz are holding a cliff, seven days’ travel

The Kirghiz have bombs.

away.

series of tales

It is like

a Karakirghiz-Thou-

sand-and-One-Nights. •

May

•

•

•

•

1 6th

We

left just

the same.

After

all sorts

of arguments with the

somehow we loaded. Of course the Chinese remained true to type. The last night Sung cried and told the lama that the police and the yamen prohibited him from going with us as far as the border. Who knows what is the meaning of this new intrusion in our life? Or Sung perhaps has given too good a report about us. Sung is completely upset.

drivers,

[308]

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA Urumchi

All the good people of

They

are bidding us farewell.

are indeed cordial people.

snow ridges Behind them remained

At

the

blue.

left,

peared Bogdo-ula in

peaks

—and

the

was joyous and

it

Kalmuck

Amid

beauty.

all its

Shan glowed purple and

of T’ian

the

we were

Just as usual

of the

We

.

.

Farther.

.

camped

beyond the

they

.

.

is

senselessly

We

impossible

—

it

dangerous

is

An

old Sart

walks with dignity through the yard.

when even

begun

was

to-day

away.

In spite

left

It is

to abate.

To

stay

night, and

at

at the

woman

Con-

in white

with

Little girls

black braids scurry out of the hut. yet

so

our arms.

inspected

Tumbal, was

stop in a courtyard.

and the heat has not

was

.

besides this, our faithful guard, sulate.

It

at once.

in Sanji, a village thirty-nine versts

village

was

the air

stopped at the custom house.

passport,

six-foot

Farther.

I.

And

full of light.

luminous that the Chinese dusk paled

E.

the snows shone three

with the scent of wild mint and wormwood.

filled

little

In back, ap-

ultus.

many

already six o’clock

How

so difficult for her.

will

it

be with

And what

right

did the Khotan scoundrel have to arrest us and detain us longer

We

might have passed here more than

was no

heat.

lence with

and

And

month ago when

there

instead of investigating the wretched inso-

which they

false toasts.

a

?

treated us, they gave us hypocritical dinners

Where

is

the justice of Sinkiang?

come again to Turkestan! While

In the evening, some strange types

Decadence! inspect our

things.

Understand, Chinese of

main

nothing but suspected prisoners in your country, so long

as

travelers re-

you, yourselves, will remain at the level of prison-wardens. is

It

time for you not to affirm that the westward flowing river

flows to the east, as the “learned” commissar of Foreign Affairs insists

on doing. They

There are enough of

say,

“China was formerly

of “former” peoples,

all sorts

time for living peoples.

Some [

a great nation.”

now

is

the

are so used to the local license,

309

]

ALTAI -HIMALAYA “Even

that they phlegmatically say,

dred years, they will

make no

you sue them for a hun-

if

investigation,

and the decision

depend on the number of thousands of

their court will

So those

paid to the judges.”

who

of

dollars

have lived a long time in the

large cities of Sinkiang declare.

May

iyth

By is

five o’clock in the

going to be hot.

criminal

A

one

P

the

left,

Truly

Or one

?

morning

too clever ?

?

A

nine

mountains.

dangerous one ?

shall

we

see

Hutubi.

better.

On

We

o’clock,

we have

shall stop in the

covered

Dungan no

yesterday was bad and to-day

account of the heat

Manass

Dear mountain

sparkling.

is

By twelve

The water

in order to reach

we

decided to leave by night

noon.

at

the willow near the road, the nightingales are singing.

Sadig, the driver, volunteers to cover five

ning and thus

to

he will go, not according

them

The

The

p’o-t’ai this eve-

The loaded

old driver informs

to conditions, but as

to translate this to

wills.

more

shorten to-morrow’s journey.

troykas remain behind again.

God

disfavored

you again?

or thirty-six miles.

village,

ask

A

After the purple borders there are

sandy and dusty.

p’o-t’ai,

On

A

tied to a pole.

is

during the whole day, stretched the chain of T’ian Shan.

When

is

man

The day

warm.

already

Bogdo-ula drowned in the mist, but to

ringing blue crests and the snow

It

is

In the bazaar a

slandered one

celestial

snows!

it

him: that he

God

me

that

desires.

I

will return also as

passage between Olunbulak and Kuldinen

considered dangerous on account of robbers.

is

Everybody advises

us that the carriages should go together and that the arms be

held loaded.

The shooting

usually starts

from both

sides of the

canyon.

Toward evening o’clock there

is

no

the heat becomes relief

still

whatsoever.

[3io]

more

intense.

By seven

Because of our arrest and

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA we have

detention,

would have been long Dance

who

Sinkiang,

Khotan

viction that this country

wish

so sincerely

would

possible that

is it

official?

to leave the boundaries of

We

and by now we

none of you, Chinese of

consider yourselves civilized, will be indignant at

the license of the

would

a half

beyond the boundaries of the Chinese

since

And

of Death.

two months and

lost

like

it

possible that

I

will have

Chinese Turkestan, with the firm connot

is

to say a

much

so

Is

We

for cultural intercourse?

fit

word

of full

who

for China!

we

Instead of that

her!

to justify

proceed with the feeling of prisoners

sympathy

have escaped from the

nest of a robber-band.

hot and stuffy.

It is

May

18th

We

arise at 2:30 at night.

tempered driver and

becomes cloudy.

A

sures.

is

all

measures

we

at half-past four

The

cool rain

By

we

urge on the

The morning

leave.

clouds were changed into opalescent starting.

The

ill-

fis-

heat abates only after one

The mountains of T’ian Shan reflect many colors. The glow purple. The fresh grass is richly green and fragrant the rain. Our mood was somewhat disturbed by another

o’clock. irises

after

What

custom house and a third inspection of our passports.

Why

to

tains,

one

cross

moun-

without any inspections whatsoever!

These

inspections are for the arbas

if

and

for inexperienced travelers but

an experienced horseman can always avoid these

The

ruins of old

nants of a temple. is

one

tinsel barriers.

Manass remind us of the massacre during the

uprising of the Dungans.

Manass

?

turning toward the

go by the highways,

may

for

Empty casements

p’o-t’ai farther.

sixteen-and-a-half p’o-t’ai to-day.

The same Dungans.

walls.

Rem-

windows and

doors.

we

make

There are heaps of clay

And

altogether

The same

Sometimes one

no Torguts or Khoshuts, but

of

Olets,

[3ii

]

sees a

who

shall

bazaars as at Manass.

Kalmuck.

occupy the

Here

are

Iliisk district

ALTAI-HIMALAYA There

and Kuldja.

is

no

Along

difference in their appearance.

the entire road are stretched caravans of camels, carrying a hun-

The

dred thousand puds of wool, bought for export. Sadik,

impressively.

the

driver,

with special emphasis:

says

“Wool toward Chuguchak!” The dream lish

communication

We

being

is

bells ring

of the district to estab-

fulfilled.

Here

are stopping at the house of the Elder of the village.

somewhat cleaner than in the Kashgar and Karashahr districts. They say that here also they will inspect

the courtyards are

the passport.

We

If

only they do not tear up this ancient curiosity!

should like to bring

During the day

it

it

back in safety and reproduce

seemed

to us as

it.

though we were going, a

And

quarter century back, along the plain of Central Russia.

now we

sit

in a dirty

twenty years ago,

thus,

little

we

white room.

sat in little huts in

on the Neman, or under the walls

Or

later, in

E.

remembers

I.

Meretchi or Veluni

of the monastery of Susdal.

and San Gemignano.

the cells of Siena

that

we have seen, we have seen! The day ended with the third inspection

We

have

seen,

deciphering of our passports.

An

of the arms

and the

opium smoker came

illiterate

He read, syllable by syllable, He asked us to take out the

from the Amban.

our three-arshin*

long passport.

guns from

cases,

and timidly touched

A

a revolver.

their

long time he paced

mumbled something and then he left responsibility of the inn-keeper. Can one include

about the same place and us under the

such

officials

humanity?

in the evolution of

these stupidly

Simply dregs.

annoying dregs are capable of obscuring the shin-

ing mountains; are capable of transforming every peaceful

Away

into the feeling of a prison. •

May igth What a good

We

But

sign!

So

•

•

we

with ignorance!

•

•

are told.

hear some unintelligible music, a

[312]

mood

What

is

the matter?

shrill clarinet like a

bag-

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA pipe,

cymbals and a drum.

What

evening.

is

This

the matter?

continues the whole

shrill noise

Not without

has died, and they are getting ready to bury him. cause in Manass, in a whole

row

of

tude of vari-colored, gayly painted

good sign

for travelers,

whether

was according

it

way on our it

shops, there

little

They

coffins.

man

a

if

man

appears that nearby a

It

say

nearby.

dies

It

is

a multi-

a very

it is

is

uncertain

to the sign or not, but at a point half-

We

down.

road, a wheel broke

shall

have to repair

at the nearest village.

To-day the road

a short

is

one

—only

as early as half-past one.

It is

half p’o-t’ai more, but the

whole matter

We

driver. It is

sit

a vivid day.

On

desert

is

rests

with the impossible

it

covered with sappy verdure and purple

We

eastward to pray.

The Lama

catch the

new

probably invokes the

approach of which

on the mountains

are

rhythm of era,

mostly nomadic

— in

though we cannot

see

them.

It is

so green

If

and

the steppe stand pillars of

smoke from

of praise.

Under

the line of

snow

The

monasteries are

also

it

is

temples, see

al-

an absurd

forbidden to see the

ridiculous

and

stupid.

starlings

and

jays are calling in the

smoke

hastily counts the years.

—they are burning reeds.

the “Polovetsky

of the horizons of the steppes. ings of the year 1912,

The grazing

hymn

you want, you can

The cuckoo

foliage of Karagach.

clouds of

his

But there are

yurtas.

Buddhist monasteries. is

iris.

hidden several large Kalmuck monasteries.

temple of the devil in Urumchi, but

grass

The

the time of Maitreya, the

Buddhists know.

all

looks as though

goes aside and turns

In each one are a few hundred lamas.

The

carriage.

receding ridges are enticing.

herds are clearly silhouetted.

He

could do two-and-a-

the far-off mountains,

The

snow has been added.

arrived

we

clear that

Ulan Usun awaiting the

in

We

forty miles.

Camp”

We recall

These

are characteristic

the dreams

— the paint-

“The Serpent Awoke” and “The Sword [313]

In

of

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Valor,”

when

the fiery angel brought the sword of valor to the

guards.

We

are told that

Whence

spring. It is

on Altai some

in

this general reverence for Altai?

They warn

hot.

bloom

special red lilies

us that here are

many

The Gov-

thefts.

ernor-General did not send the promised order about the passage.

At

It is better so!

we do

least

not have to have the faintest

feel-

ing that the Chinese did anything for us except to offer affronts,

From Ulan Usun

violence and obstacles. the Torgut

summering

place.

is

four days’ ride to

equally distant from Kucha,

It is

Urumchi, and from Ulan Usun. •

May 20th Up at four.

How

A

is

purplish mist

•

The mountains become

beautiful!

The

rising.

grass

is

A

made

nine

wonderful road.

The

the scent of the silver jilda.

pink.

We

becomes luxuriant.

We

at half-past five, before the heat. six miles) until Yan-zi-hai.

•

•

•

left

p’o-t’ai (thirty-

Fresh and sweet

we have

birds are singing;

many of them for a long time. We cross the plain strewn with the mounds of graves — traces of skirmishes and the Dungan uprising. Like a forbidding wall stand the silvery blue not heard so

We

mountains. just

come

on time. The sun

Jubilant,

we

speedily at half-past nine to Yan-zi-hai, is

already scorching; everything

enter a small clay hut.

o’clock at night,

and then by moonlight,

The

further to Shiho.

are broader, or there are

We

sit

again in a

are busy under the It

feels

as

Chuguchak activity

was

if

be here until twelve

already

is

felt,

in

Either the streets of the villages

more plowed little

clay hut.

beams they have

the

searing.

in the coolness, proceed

nearness of Russia

something almost intangible.

cleaner!

We shall

is

;

fields.

In the

built their nest.

ground were shaken.

are extinct craters.

In the

Not long ago

so intense that they expected

[3H]

The inns are room swallows

the

district

of

underground

an eruption.

— KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA May

2 1 st

We

In the darkness, in the begin-

arose at one o’clock at night.

ning of a buran, we

We

themselves in clouds of dust.

At one

coarse pebbles.

Shiho,

making

thundered through a plain of

touch

From Urumchi,

A

crowd

of

to

Dungans

They walked around, examined our

us.

Veritable

ten thousand

We

animals.

little

car-

recalled

there

was an Amban.

Dungans were

sent against him,

years ago, in Sharasiime,

fifteen

we came

o’clock in the afternoon

to feed the horses.

and Chinese gathered.

how,

hid

sixteen p’o-t’ai.

Halfway we -stopped riage, tried to

The mountains

left at half-past three.

but from Zaisan a battalion succeeded in approaching and the

Urumchi soldiers immediately dispersed. Now the Amban, an Olet prince, lives a day’s journey from

ten thousand

son of this

He

Shiho.

completed

his education

In the direction

abroad.

Kalmuck monastery. Shiho is the crossroad between Urumchi (six days), Chuguchak (six days), Kuldja of Shiho

is

also a big

(nine days) and Sharasiime (twelve days).

On

we met

our way

three arbas with precious loads

—marral

horns.

Probably they are coming from Russian or Mongolian

Altai.

They

to

China

are going through

Urumchi toward Ku-ch’eng

to be used for valuable medicines.

not admitted to the courtyard of a former Russian quality of the road

Toksun. to

From

make an

is

much

better here than in

the great expanse of pebbles,

excellent road.

roads of communication, the

we were citizen. The

In Shiho

it

Kashgar-Aksu-

would be

But for the Chinese, the fewer the

more

quiet.

The

less

enlightenment

more convenient it is for the “rulers.” The “ruling power” came for the passports. And

there

is,

the

very poor power indeed, so ragged, so ill-smelling!

what

easy

torture

it

tried to read, syllable

by

hieroglyphics of the six-foot passports.

syllable, the

We

it

was a

And

with

innumerable

gave the passports

to the official, not without fear; even without this, the corners

[3i5]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA of this “valuable”

document

worn from

are already

the endless

inspections.

E.

I.

says, “If the

much

Chinese would have received us well,

much! No news from America. Where and whence are we going to receive it? Up to May 16th we have received no answer to

would have been changed

thereby.”

Verily,

The

our telegram sent April 12th.

condition of the telegraph

post, of the wires, of the insulators, spell,

has to

tell

“Resign

all

H. they should not send telegrams by

hope.”

One Here,

Bently.

even without the code, the words are distorted beyond recognition.

May 22nd The

up

sands,

to Tcha-pe-dzi

itself,

an unbearable heat, and Sadik says that have never seen so

much

on the road before the very

we

We

are squalid.

Beyond, the

Tcha-pe-dzi

and

would

hares.

carriage.

They

arrived at half-past two.

travel at night.

it

is

kill

the horses.

Gold pheasants and

wild game.

partridges; geese, ducks, gulls

p’o-t’ai .

Otherwise there would be

Light clouds have hidden the sun.

We

cover sixteen

The

We

suggest

pheasants perch five o’clock;

left at it

will be better to

an unattractive place.

The houses

stop just behind the village, near the river.

crest of T’ian

Shan disappeared and

far ahead,

toward

the north, appeared the light line of the Tarbagatai mountains.

In the steppe are crumbling the Chinese tombs like

Again the

ill-smelling ragamuffin

passports somewhere.

the photographs.

We is

Amusingly he compares our

from

faces

with

Endless police-quarters!

who is Tsagan-Khutukhta. It appears He is now in Labrang. How instructive

compare the

\urgans.

comes and takes away our

learned

an Olet.

that

little

face of Maitreya

the North.

that it

is

he to

from behind the Himalayas with

Only thus

sentation of personalities, events

is

and

[316]

constructed a true reprefaiths.

Each country, not

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA deviating from the truth, adds

The

vations. Jilda

is

reports about

The

blooming.

its

own

details

and

own

its

obser-

Tsagan-Khutukhta coincide. early honeysuckle

is

becoming pink.

Toward evening all is fragrant with the new spring. There will again be a drama with the drivers. We will have to persuade them to move at night. We decided not to sleep, but to leave at eleven at night. •

•

•

•

•

May 2 yd The

pulse of the evening

Chinese came with ten terious

is

Some wholly

one of unrest.

They

soldiers.

are fulfilling

They

mission of the Governor-General.

Peking and Moscow.

A

net

Advice has come: to leave

are

going to

once; to muffle the bells on the

harnesses and to extinguish the lights. the advice

some mys-

being woven.

is

at

strange

All

is

unrest.

We

follow

and we leave under rain and wind with arms loaded.

We

march through deep sands, difficult for the horses. Eighteen p’o-t’ai to Ulan Bulak. It took twelve hours with two hours for feeding the horses. food.

Seven

dark-pebbled clear.

of

p’o-t’ai

Ulan Bulak

is

from the langar, the sands change

hills of

the Djair mountains.

Blinding, threatening clouds whirl.

Chuguchak

it

begins to thunder.

near a wretched Chinese temple.

We

They

no

is

into the

Everything becomes

And

in the direction

stop

on

a

little

hill

In front of us, for the last

time, stretches the ridge of the Heavenly mist.

There

a poor langar.

Mountains merging in

are so heavenly in tone, so rich with their white

crests.

So

little

is

known

succeed in threading

of all

whole distance quivers

Kalmuck

alus.

When

and who

the labyrinths of buried treasures in

the

?

rainbow of evaporation.

sapphire desert and ethereal mountains merge with the sky. hills

are

adorned in gold.

Verily

Accept the chalice.

[3i7]

will

The The The

thou art beautiful, Asia!

ALTAI-HIMALAYA A

couple of Dungans and Kalmucks are traveling with us.

And the tone and

which the Kalmuck speaks

in

Naively he

intimately.

tells

how

us

to us rings confidently

he wanted to hunt in

the mountains but the local prince forbade him.

road ran there

in the mountains.

is

The

do not

carriages

go without

shall

One can imagine how much game

gray gazelles.

six

sleep. •

«

•

•

2 4th

Only Ladakis and some for distant trips.

of the

All others

Mongolian Khoshuns

weaken and

are

lose their vitality

fit

and

prey to melancholy.

fall

We

which

ice

and snow.

to

Kuldinen

tell.

in

We

It

is

in the

canyons of Djair

hills

of Djair confront

The

icy gale, rain, hail,

driver succeeded in

are completely exhausted

Here they have

smarts the eyes.

arrive at half-past

is

away

any robbers.

for

oil

on

and

all

We

come

over us.

the

They

manure, which

spill tea.

Kuldinen in the evening.

Now

After us,

They walk it

two

a miserable station

also built a bonfire out of

They pour

p’o-t’ai

from dragging ourselves

Ottu

with loaded guns.

and during the night,

making seventeen

We

twenty-two hours.

Their arrogance begins.

of us are snowless,

one of those unbearable days

middle of the road, sunken in mud.

Chinese.

to get

An

Our

after the arbas,

spit.

is

and murders occur.

us very severely.

at night.

To-day

the caravaneers

all

that robberies

in the

Ahead

bid farewell to T’ian Shan.

small cupolas of Djair. of

For the third night we

arrive again.

•

May

Across the

We

are glad

have not seen

they say that the chief spot for robberies

is

not on to-day’s road but to-morrow’s, between Kuldinen and

snow we reach Kuldinen. We crowd ourselves into an ill-smelling little hut, and we sleep four hours without waking. And then, again, we load, and we again quarrel Yadmantu.

In the

with the wretched driver.

[3i8]

KARA SHAHR— DZUNGARIA May

25th

The

entire

day

is

a beautiful one.

canyons of the red mountains that

somewhere near

we may

be attacked.

among our men.

most narrow

Seemingly,

as

crevice, the axle of the

moment for robbers, the men are busy with

in

second arba breaks, and It is a

most advan-

but they do not appear.

hours

the carriage.

On

For two

the road through

three carriages overturn.

After passing red and copper mountains

which

steppe

learn

in the

spite,

tageous

hills,

We

many hundreds One senses a ten-

though

the other four carriages remain interlocked.

the

narrow

here, during the civil war,

were slaughtered by the Kirghiz.

of Russians sion

true that in the

It is

the colors

is

Kuldinen)

is

surrounded by blue

like a fairy is

a

crests;

Map’an

rainbow.

we

descend to a green

again the purity of

(thirteen p’o-t’ai

joyous resting place on the steppe.

outskirts of the village stand yurtas.

Herds

from

On

the

huddled together.

are

Kirghiz, in malachais, are galloping about like warriors of the

The Kalmucks have honest

fifteenth century.

faces.

not yet had time to find a camp-site in Map’an before a

We

have

Kalmuck

comes with information of extreme importance: “In the second

month (which means March) spread the rumor through the and monasteries Emperor.

He

that the

Urumchi Governor-General uhis, the camps of the nomads the

Tashi-Lama had been

elected Chinese

has not yet ascended the throne but he has already

accepted the tamgha (the seal).”

Only those who have been

in Asia will appreciate the significance of this invention.

of this invention the newspapers

Yet,

do not write and Reuter’s does

not telegraph; but just these invisible knots are creating the future reality.

A the

amount of news about the Tashi-Lama will float Kalmuck and Mongolian spaces. For many years! vast

All the riches of this country,

await

new

ways, a

new

culture

all its

and

[319]

beauty,

all its

across

significance,

self-consciousness.

Appre-

ALTAI-HIMALAYA date the nature of

May

this

rumor about

new

the

Chinese Emperor!

2 6th

To-day our road through

Above

is

Everywhere

verdant steppe.

a

We

about ninety miles.

long;

hasten

and herds.

are yurtas

the distant Tarbagatai mountains are the signs of bad

weather again approaching and the wind becomes

We

the right are the four hills of Altai.

To

cool.

rush through the

Kurte where the road branches into the larger road

village

toward Chuguchak, and the small, clay road toward Durbuljin. In Durbuljin are the same clay huts and a

The predominance

of nationalities.

greater mixture

still

of Sarts or

Dungans has

disappeared.

We them

many annoyances with

have

the zone between Posts

occur there.

Kozeun

in

We

one

shall strive to

stretch.

If

remain

at the

make

Post, or in

all

seventy-five miles to

driver)

is

nervous and advises us not

Chinese Post.

Taotai.

lies

Beside the corpse

the unburied

body of the

a white rooster,

is

they have carried with the coffin from Chuguchak.” are the affairs of the dead one;

been received to

institute a

from Peking

posthumous

Taotai for his crimes, and until the

are veritable “dead souls”! rooster

also crowing.

is

If

sible to believe that are

China asked

is

trial

trial

is

a

known,

me

And

command

ended not

comic

such Dances of Death.

America.

“And why do [320]

I

has

against the former

relief,

one has not been in China,

especially in

in Chicago,

for the

which

Grievous

to

bury

These

not to send the body back to his native land.

him and

We

one march.

only the Chinese customs will not de-

Another anecdote: “In Urumchi

Chuguchak

induce

Thefts and robberies

miles).

(thirty

Even Sadik (the

tain us!

in

remain overnight in the Chinese

are advised not to

to

boundary

to reach the Post across the

we must

the drivers;

the white

it is

How

impos-

little

of

remember Dr. Laufer

they fuss over the Chinese,

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA when they do not know them ?” At that time we also knew only the “Museum” China, but not the reality of Sinkiang. The albums of sketches are accumulating.

May

27th

The day with

all its

At our

a silky steppe.

straight

northward

is

are the

left,

Blue mountains;

a beautiful one.

are the foothills

There are herds

center of Asia. of horses;

colors

snows of Tarbagatai, and

—Altai,

of Altai itself

Great droves

in the steppe.

and blackish gray and milky white

wind and an unprecedented translucence

the

Sun and

yurtas.

of tones.

It

is

even

more resonant than Ladak. From morning on we have been tormented by the wretched driver.

Nothing

We have not

is

in order

and the carriages

encountered a worse fellow.

are falling apart.

After the performance

The Amban had

of the driver, a sequence of Chinese interludes.

appointed a soldier to accompany us to the border of Kozeun.

The

soldier arrived, turned

he was going to drink After

we had

tea,

around

the gate, and said that

at

and we did not

passed five

p’o-t’ai,

comedy began; but one could have

up

him

see

to the

cried

again.

border-line, the

from

it.

The

seven-

foot-long passport and the seals of the Governor-General helped

very

little.

The

customs

half-literate

the seals of the Governor-General. all

our things.

And

finally

he

official

wanted

Then he wanted

tried to take

away

to break to

count

entirely the

Chinese passport which was given to us to go on to Peking

which was attached the visa. With the greatest difficulty we induced him to abandon this scheme; nevertheless, the torture

and

to

and inventions of the customs by

six o’clock

could

we make

idiot

a

took about four hours.

move

the twenty-five miles to the next Post. a mile before the

us

was the

wheel on the

to pass, or rather crawl,

We

had not completed

driver’s carriage broke.

possibility of a night in the

[321]

Only

Before

mountains, in the heart

ALTAI-HIMALAYA We

of the most dangerous locality.

And

Post.

sit

back so

tent bring

to return to the

again in our tents.

many

moon looks unflinchingly we passed a few nomadic

recollections.

into

the

Perhaps

The

before a long intermission.

last time,

and

we

here

had

flap

it

Chinese for the

is

beloved mountains

And

the full golden

of the

To-day

tent.

monasteries where Maitreya

is

rev-

Avoiding complications with the Chinese, we did not turn from our way toward the yurtas of the monastery. It was erenced.

a pity,

a pity!

it is

May

•

•

•

•

•

2 8th

How

solemn

is

The end and

this night.

the beginning!

Fare-

As a farewell she revealed herself not only with her blue snow mountains, not only with the chrysoprase well, Dzungaria!

of the

hills,

but also with abundant grass and flowers not seen

for a long time: wild peonies, crimson red, yellow

heads of a

orange color,

fiery

green

hills.

We

And

irises, briar-roses.

We

pervaded with the breath of spring.

lilies,

golden-

the air

is

descended and ascended

righted the fallen carriages.

Near us rode the Kirghiz escort. The same Scythians, the same caps, leather trousers and half-kaftans, as on the vase of

The Kirghiz pursued

Kuleb.

One

of the Kirghiz picked a big

There

is

stones.

one more crossing. This

is

bunch

And on

which crossed the road. of red peonies for E.

the peak

is

a

I.

heap of small

the end of China.

Welcome, spring little

the wolves

soil,

new

in thy

Continuous grass and

attire!

goldenheads, and the white walls of the border Post of

Kuzeun.

Soldiers approach

erally anxious to

do

as

is

and question

best for us.

us.

Where

They is

are gen-

the crudeness

and ignorance which one might expect in this isolated little post unmarked on the map. A long and attentive inspection of the things follows.

Everything

is

They apologize for Here is the head us.

examined.

taking our time and for the bother to

[322]

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA and here

of the Post,

We

remain overnight

May

the family of his assistant, an old officer.

is

at the Post.

2 gth

we

This morning

rode

as far as the village

The mountains

miles) on a wonderfully smooth road.

They

Curious

Kirghiz yurtas.

are getting lower.

Pokrovsky (seventy

riders.

The

A

green

sleek, raven-black horse of the soldier trots vigorously.

The

frontier cap.

A

ruler of Russia.

first

village

first

low

meager gardens are already the

summer

Rurikowsky

The white

clay hut. seen.

Vegetables do not thrive

severe.

called

is

The

climate

—the frost

heat has already begun.

If

kills

On

a straight slope the

One must

pieces.

to get another

The

mill.

Here is

is

We

wagon. is

Pokrovskoye.

Here

out.

assistant of the

here

very

is

But

them.

now

we could reach make it. And so it

wheel of the wagon breaks to

is

stand for a long time near a private

unfriendly and does not give his wagon.

More white

houses.

The commandant

the head of the guard, and here

commandant.

more

is

the

Striving to surpass one another

They

they establish us in their modest apartment. questions, ever

and

walls

send to the commandant’s post to Pokrovskoye

proprietor

coming

after the

only

Topolev mys; probably our driver will not proves.

recede.

insistently.

They

ask

more

expect enlightening an-

They want to compare their information with ours. Ramsana, not knowing the language, remarks: “They have good souls.” We ask him how he came to this conclusion: “It is seen

swers.

in their eyes.” It

appears that our boat on the Irtysh leaves to-night, and the

next one only after three days. this difficulty.

with them

But

at least

and we converse

The

driver

at the Post they rejoice

one day.

They come

until midnight.

[323]

is

responsible for

and ask us

to

to us in the

remain evening

ALTAI-HIMALAYA May J.

gist

accompanied us on horseback

We

a heartfelt farewell. to Blue Zaisan.

and vivid red

Mountains and

The

We

Topolev mys

Gray

Flat \urgans.

hills.

grass

Not without Kirghiz “Kara-kirghiz” black ones. The

call

soldier,

a

forty-five miles to

bade him

Auls of Kirghiz yurtas.

slopes.

reason do they escort,

made

We

to the steppe.

many

relates

instances of

Kirghiz, Kurbanoff, keeps a band of

Kirghiz robberies.

armed

fifty

riders.

rush through a gorge where twenty-two Kirghiz recently

attacked and tried to strangle seven frontier

But the

latter at once, at the

slaughtered sixteen people.

with

lassos.

point of the saber, captured and

Farther, near a

He had

attacked one soldier.

officials

a

hill,

four Kirghiz

hard time getting away.

Lately,

Kirghiz have driven 150 horses away from the ranch of Feodoroff. In

Chuguchak even now

Post, struck

down by

lies

wounded chief of the Kirghiz thieves. The peasants

the seriously

the bullets of

complain about the perpetual robberies. Four cows of our hostess

were driven away.

It is

so difficult to subdue these robbers

the soldiers of the frontier are straining

all

Our driver we had nine

During

lost his senses

stops

and breakdowns.

turned, the wheels upside

and driver were not Behind herself

down.

killed.

forty-five miles

Finally, one carriage over-

It is

remarkable that the horses

Blue Zaisan glows on the horizon. Is it

not Beluha

? is

Topolev mys, a squatting village with white

reliable boat left yesterday

the Altai.

We

their forces.

the white crest of the Altai Chain.

it is

Here

A

completely.

and

We

drink

shall stop

tea.

We

and we

will probably

mud

huts.

have to go by

with old Feodorova.

eat pot-cheese

with sour cream.

On

the

wall hangs an image of Saint Nicolas and the supplement of the magazine, “Neva”: “Lomonosoff to Catherine the Great!’ soldiers.

They speak

Shows an

The nephews

of F. are

Electric

Machine

coming

—former

intelligently about China, Korea,

[324]

and about

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA They want to get some perch and carp for us from Zaisan. On the windows are red and purple primroses, and the omnipresent geranium. Our Gegen was taken for a

Chang Tso

Lin.

How many

Chinese general. passage

]une

legends will

about our

travel

?

ist

Old Feodorova everything.

They

complains about the Kirghiz.

also

Every night one has

to

guard the herds.

steal

But, in

The driver, Sadik says: “They all They live as they lived before.” The lie in Urumchi about life. soldiers say of the Kirghiz: “When you come to him he shouts general,

well ordered.

life is

—

out, ‘Friend, friend.’

ing

how

to take

But he himself

away your gun and

the whole night one has to keep the

Instead of the Altai is

not destined that

came

we

at the

same time

to shoot

gun

is

you with

go on

a

it.”

So

in hand.

the worst boat, the Lob\ov.

shall

schem-

good boat

— the

Well,

it

driver pre-

The lake lies like a pearl net. To-day the sanctuary is seen, the Kalmuck Mountain Sabur, or rather Saw-ur. The Lob\ov proved to be not as bad as reputed. We arranged for the lama and Ramsana on the top deck. We all found vented

it.

accommodations.

Again

a miracle; while

we

are

still

on the gangplank, the

On the And all of

stevedores gather around us and beg us to “tell” them.

top deck

them

we

are surrounded by a circle of

are burning equally with one desire:

all

ages.

To \now.

Each one

has his angle of approach; each one his information, but

have one fervent desire criminate in what

wants to

know know

wants

to

about

Hindu

who

is

—to

told!

all

know more. And how they disWhat remarks they make! One

the economic situation of the countries; another

about politics;

still

another searches information

Yogis, saying, “That’s where truth

so desire to

\now

will receive

[325]

what they

People

is.”

desire.

A

boy

is

He

coming.

wants

to

with

travel

Four

us.

are

crowded

George’s small cabin, and they speak in a friendly manner.

no longer hanging the atmosphere of

the pier

is

people’s

work

is

in

Over

The

profanity.

thriving. •

•

•

•

•

June 2nd

“How

should love to study for thirty years without stopping,

I

but the job interferes,” says a

burn with a genuine

eyes

For the

Did

my

Not

that has given

me

friend

is

knowledge.

It is

my

the right to record so

On my

the lancing of these ulcers

Out

painting which

Dance

Death

friendship to real China

many

A

horrors.

lies

an unprejudiced

assails

hypo-

eye.

In

the assurance of the success of

of the past, out of the ancient civilization of

China, one can construct a bridge only to the future sciousness,

of

close his eyes at this horror of reality but a

must point out whatever

future China.

his

an inscription: “The Friend of China.”

in the least.

enemy would

And

the boat.

friendship lessen after seeing the whole

of Sinkiang?

critical

thirst for

turn toward China.

I

Peking there

in

is

time,

last

workman on

new

with understanding of the true evolution.

con-

But the

present will sink into the darkness as a stained page of history.

The governors and ambans masks

horrible as the I

in the curio-museum, as

amputation of the hands and

sincerely

terror

of hypocrisy

mountains;

While the

flat

it

wish success

I

I

What

am

degradation

who

to all

silk

understand the

looking into the eyes of those

thirst for

knowledge!

unwavering courage

it

gives an

is

yet night,

banks of the

cast off all

and ignorance.

Quite impartially, try to ascend.

god of water.

feet of the

which has accumulated under the

dirt

of the outer garment.

needed for humanity

little

hope that China may soon

and wash away the

become

of contemporary China will

we

still

leave

narrow

to

This

new

thirst

who

moves

constructions.

Lake Zaisan and go between Irtysh.

[326]

The water

is

shallow

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA now, and the boat more than once touches the sand bank. the

prow

You

they are measuring the depth.

Many

there are herds.

hear the same

Villages of a Kirghiz type.

exclamations as on the upper Volga.

Here and

On

geese and

sorts of other

all

wild waterfowl.

Green

Toward

hills

We

appear.

we

six o’clock

already predominate.

over the mountains.

mountains by evening.

shall reach the

Little village houses

reach the village Bati.

And there are the mountains, and tempests An astounding effect of the light steppe

under the blue mountains and cloudy billows.

we have

cloud

This wealth of

not seen for a long time.

In the evening, in the dining room, a boy comes in:

won’t

I

a great deal.

He

Kirghiz would not

steal.

talks

He

be scolded for coming in ?”

about the

tells

— mountain road discovered by him “like very crest.”

Two

.

.

.

He

puds’ weight

a bear: “I

was

goes to his mother.

defends the Kirghiz.

He

a

afraid of

He

insists

the

highway through the

“We

caught pike.

He remembers

a crocodile.”

He

unknown Kirghiz

speaks about catching fish:

—like

“And

him but perhaps he was

still

meeting

more

afraid

of me.”

The

late

evening until midnight

occupied in conversation

is

with a village school teacher, about Yoga, about about reincarnation.

and the people

They

live

All these questions are as daily bread here

They correspond with one

by them.

ask involved and profound questions.

teachers are

many.

They keep

in touch

Such

and psychic

re-

A

to the boat. •

•

•

•

•

yd

morning we have been passing tall cliffs. Gray masses blocked up to the very edge of the water. The Irtysh has

Since are

village school

Toward midnight we reach Novyi Krasnoyarsk.

crowd comes ]une

another.

with each other and

are genuinely interested in scientific discovery search.

secrets of India,

[327]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA become narrower and flows still more rapidly. There is the little wooden city, Ust Kamenogorsk, and beyond, the mountains

The

end.

Irtysh spreads into a broad, smooth, flowing river

and on the horizon the separate mountains are

We

have decided

along the Irtysh.

by

It entails

On

night.

at

people and more

They

Farewell, mountains!

go from Semipalatinsk

to

Twenty hours

train.

late

visible.

still

a

the boat, there

There

air.

There

is

to

change of route.

to Novosibirsk; is

now

Omsk

But

it is

we would more

are cool days

say that for three years

noticeable.

and pyramids of vanished

crests

by boat,

no

better

arrive there

intercourse with

now and

cold nights.

changes of climate have been

no heat during the summer, but the winters

are also less cold.

Late

night there

at

themes.

It

is

again a conversation and on the same

is

really remarkable, personally to be

convinced of

the direction of the people’s consciousness. •

•

•

•

ft

June 4th

Three o’clock

Semipalatinsk.

The cargo

morning.

in the

is

transferred to another boat, the February Eighth, as far as to

We

Omsk. and

it

desire to help in all ways.

Omsk, where

lows.

We

In a friendly

On

visit a

The

for learning. river,

on which

Believers

:

give us letters to S.

bookshop.

way

no rudeness

was capsized by

roam

— there

is

about.

the

fel-

There

is

same eagerness

Irtysh has spread itself into a powerful, broad

rafts float.

“If

It

they rush to help the poor

the steamer curious children

respectfulness in them,

Old

They

boat was dragged under the steamer.

the current.

slow

they will arrange reservations for us in the inter-

national sleeping car.

A

is

Again we meet courtesy

takes twenty hours to Novosibirsk.

and the in

decided to go by boat because the Altaian line

you

tell

They

them

that

are

the Kerjaks,

you have eaten with Kirghiz,

they will never permit you at the table.

[328]

manned by

And

they

all

command

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA that one should cross oneself,” explains the of the steppe: “If thy

and the

rarely

Meat

again.

worth 80

is

is

Siberians,

And

it

The

as they say,

is,

A

thievery, bravado.

away

lead

still

to everything

born, Siberian: “However.”

—

The horseback riders are seemingly hewn out of stone,

disappear.

a horse.

a

good horse

added the firm, stub-

Siberians are

not afraid of

only some prank of the steppes,

Comanche

And

is

and

snow

Lately

lingers.

sold at 8 kopecks a pound,

rubles.

the Kirghis

proverb

one-eyed, try to close one eye

is

Below Beluha, snow

begin to appear. fell

nomads

auls of the

more

seen

A

boy.

with him.”

to be a pair

The

comrade

little

or a Zuni in Arizona will also

did the Scythians really hobble their

own horses on the vase of Kuleb? So much is being created. And the soil — the soil of Buddha — is being transported. Again, many dates will be forgotten and one may not record them. ]une $th

The

tales

about the cruelty of the Chinese are penetrating

even here, on the Irtysh.

The

the Chinese tortures witnessed by them. is

put into a hollow pole

is

thrust with

all its

filled

to saw.

Or

they

The

draw

is

drawn

a horsehair

a horsehair

news

as

was caught and sentenced

two hundred of

ransom

his tribe

came and

for the elder robber.

and they begin All

When

Kam-

all their

wealth

Only by firm measures,

robberies can be stopped, especially

if

the

recently a

to be exiled to

offered

this,

And

to the cities.

Kirghiz’s pranks also are related everywhere.

chatka,

The body Through the nose

through the eyeball.

the frontiersmen see and carry the

rich bey robber

convicted person

with sharp thorns.

weight upon the thorns.

and the nasal tube and mouth

remember

traveling frontiersmen

these

the Chinese will cease to

favor contraband, for which they receive big bribes.

The the

yurtas almost ended.

Low

pine trees and shrubs.

window, two young workmen [329]

are conversing.

Behind

They speak

ALTAI-HIMALAYA about the organization of their local theater, about

difficulties

with

They speak as one seldom hears in a capital. The frontiersmen speak of Buddhism; they understand it is not a religion but a teaching. They appreciate that Buddha the man, is a real historical personality. They are interested in costumes and lighting.

the manuscript about Issa; they discuss the vastness of matter.

What

accounts for this

nature of the

A

thinking?

vital, clear

spirit to strive

Because

He

do not understand

useful

it

would be

Ford himself among

to

grieves

“And how much

the value of practical unity:

they tend only to separativeness in the village: but

more

the

toward beauty.

bearded peasant from Nijni-Novgorod passes.

that people

is

it

work

as a unit.

If

we

only could have

us.” •

•

•

•

•

]une 6th

Some

people are afraid of mountains and they

tains stifle

The has

them.

Irtysh

grows

still

become yellow and

believe that

On little

these people also afraid of great

broader.

What

the white caps

a current!

rise.

Yermak might have drowned

the piers, the

though the

entire

Now

teristic

It is

The water we can well

here.

town had poured out on the steamer.

as

One

interesting to see the ease of migration so charac-

is

now

in Paveodar; this

Listen to their speech

in Semipalatinsk; this one,

—

this

one from

from Kronstadt,

one was in Seul and in Bokhara;

one

is

one from Nijni-Novgorod,

is

this

from the borders of Poland;

this

now

the last day of the Irtysh

in Altai.

train

Rose.

works ?

crowd becomes more and more dense,

of the peasant.

Kamchatka

A

moun-

fellow asks another, quite a small one: “Are you a Boy

Scout?”

is

Are not

insist that

To-morrow

and again

is

that beauty above

which

is

—Omsk.

the Sign of the

KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA June 7th

The wind and the whitecaps changed The crowds on the piers hid themselves. is

no

heat,

which she

Lichtmanns already

so feared.

started

The

?

We

into a cold

E.

I. is

pleased

ask ourselves:

last letters

downpour.

—there

Have

the

from America were

from the beginning of January and the telegrams from the beginning of March.

The charm and

it

Not

of Asia!

was always within

or the “Guests

the contagion

Even before

us.

—but the enchantment,

from beyond the Sea” was painted.

we be without thee, Asia ? But we have when shall we leave thee? And where is

not

shall

Who

said thy border

is

along the Ural?

What

Camp” And how thee. And

the “Polovetsky

left

thy border, Asia?

What

tasks can be

made without the stones, without the covenants of Asia ? The “Long Ear” of Asia hearkens to the music of the spheres. The “Great Hand” of Asia is raising the chalice. About the Long Ear of Asia are woven many tales. About the Great Hand of Asia, the epic is

accomplished without Asia?

only being written.

structure can be

All great Teachers

Mahatma.

reads the letter of the

came from

This morning

we

Asia. E.

I.

passed the

Yermak and the place where the conquerer of Siberia was drowned. The workman explained: “He would have swum out but his heavy armor dragged him down.” So the workman

village

remembers the hero of

these wintry lands.

June 8th

Omsk.

A

bridge across the Irtysh.

ings; a private house

where Kolchak

Kolchak Senate; the house of the the

worn banner

of

Yermak

is

Some

“historical” build-

lived; the building of the

soldiers; the cathedral

where

guarded; the half-destroyed prison

where Dostoyevsky was confined; the top of an old prison of the seventeenth century.

have

just left

It

and we

appears that both trains which shall

we needed

have to remain three days [33i

]

—until

ALTAI-HIMALAYA We

Thursday evening.

hear about

There

prices that they bring.

my

paintings and the high

more questions about Yoga,

are

about India, about Buddhism and about the teachings of

life;

of the study of will and cosmic matter.

Newspapers write

we have “found”

that

the legend

about

has

Whence comes this legend? How could we find what been known so long ago ? But we found something greater.

We

could establish that the story of the

Christ.

is

of Issa, the Teacher,

accepted and lives throughout the entire East, on the borders of

Bhutan and

Ladak and

on the walls of Sikhim, on the peaks

in Tibet, in the

Mongolian Khoshuns.

ulus lives this legend

—

a sensation,

is

And

in the

of

Kalmuck

not in the sensationalism of the Sunday

lives

That which

papers but as a firm, calm realization. is

life

West

an age-old knowledge.

for the East •

•

for the

•

•

•

]une gth

The

cold sun penetrates through the ornamented leaves of

Not

the Philodendron in the rooms of the Hotel Europe.

to a

hothouse, not to a botanical garden, but to Sikhim shall these leaves

carry our

Tishta

we

remembrances

ascended

to

—there,

where from the

Chakong, the very same

leaves

around the green mossy trunk, interwoven with the colors of orchids;

temple guard,

solitary

and

and

to the

ornamented

leaf shall lead

now

Lama Mingyur.

series

of paintings.

Musatoff and Levitan. paintings.

To

Museum.

From

There

And

into the far-off country

are going to the District

brilliant

simple linen shirt;

images close and dear

ethnographical department. a

stately, in a

evening legends of

this leaf shall flourish the

We

and

wound

temple in Chakong with the

to a small tall

river

It

and near

to us.

has an art and

the big cities they have sent

not only Levitsky

is

so this

our surprise,

we

find also

but

also

two of

my

Both are from the unfinished group which stood

near the walls of the studio.

One, “Boats” (1903) from the [332

]

Suite,

— KARASHAHR— DZUNGARIA “They

The

are Building the City.”

(a sketch).

One

should note that both are unfinished.

The local school “You are Roerich?” and America.

up and

teacher comes

— “Yes”—“But you

Again the same

1918?”

other one, “Benevolent Tree”

fairy tale,

And how

were

not be killed

But the one

“funeral services” and obituaries

?

away

has since

at the “funeral services”

killed in Siberia, in

which reached us

we

could

asks, in astonishment:

if

London

in

there were

who was

worked very

has traversed oceans and easily ascended heights.

chanted joyously,

Probably the

“funeral services” helped; and the obituaries were very heartfelt ones.

]une 10th

We

are departing: the trains leave at midnight.

shall rejoice,

upon the completion

it is

down somewhere

necessary to settle

to arrange the notes

But where and

and albums.

Two

Kosloff writes about Khangai. the black and the white

they in Scythian attire? figures? of

It is

— the

But

notes.

for a time,

and

when ?

statues are interesting

good and the

Are these Taras?

significant as

I

of the journey, to transfer to

you the complete drawings along with these brief for this,

Friends,

evil.

But

why

Or adapted

are

stone

everything from the old district

is

Orkhon. To-day

is

Saban Tui, a Tartar holiday of the sowing.

on horses and camels.

The

the grove outside the town.

Races

Tartars with loud bells gallop into

They

are celebrating the

new sow-

ing.

At midnight the

train arrives.

We

are passing

under the Sign

of the Rose ; under the sign of the holiday of the sowing. ings to Friends!

[

333

]

Greet-

Part

X

ALTAI (1926)

Across the entire heaven shone a rainbow.

And through the rainbow-gate rushed the Ob —birthplace of the wife and serpent.

two. great

The Shambatyon

On

will brave it?

most sacred

coming

letter

River its

—a

broad Ob: The

Who

along rapids and stones.

rolls

of the alphabet, conceals the recalls the

And

true Katun.

on the new

not one, but

M. M., name of

other shore live the people of

The Kabala

one.

along stones built

And

Shambatyon.

as yet, the city

Katun

the

the

* rolls

has not been

site. •

•

•

•

•

Katun in Turki means woman. “The Dodecahedron, significant of the feminine Origin, is being indicated in scientific terms which are connected with the dates of evolution.

.

.

“On Katun and on There

the Bia, brother will rise against brother.

will be great slaughter

and then there

will begin a

new

” life •

And

still

•

•

come and speak concerning the same year of The sun spots condense as at present only every

seventy-seven years. is

•

others

Twenty-eight.

* Katun

•

And

formed from the

then finally comes the most inspired

root, “to roll.”

[

334

]

— ALTAI What

person and he also talks about the same year.

wonder!

a

One, through astronomy; the other, through astrology; the through writings; the fourth, through numerology; and

What

concerned with the same thing. twenty-five to 1911 one gets the

Stone

—wondrous stone.

The

stone.

entire district

Elen-Chadir,

The

same

wonder!

result

— the

If

all

are

one adds

year 1936.

And

stone of Tigeretz.

simply

stone!

is all

Kuegan,

Tourak,

a

third,

Karagai,

Ak-kem,

Yasatar,

Ekonur, Chegan, Arasan, Urul, Kuraghan, Alahoi, Jharhash,

Ongudai, Eloman, Turgunda, Argut, Karaghem, Archat, Jhaldur, Chingistai,

Ak-Ulgun, Hamsar.

All these are names; these names of rivulets, habitations and

town

sites

sound

like a

chanting tune, like a harmonious peal.

many nations have brought their finest harmonies and dreams. The tread of tribes went and is returning. So

Near Black Anui on Karagol distances are not

And when we before us. shades.

It

It

known.

The depths and

there are caves.

There are bones and

inscriptions.

crossed Edigol the broadness of Altai spread

blossomed in

all

became white with

flowers stood the height of a

even locate the horses in

interblending green and blue

distant snow.

man on

The

and the

One cannot

horseback.

Nowhere have we

it.

grass

seen such grassy

vesture. •

An

Altaian overtook us.

•

•

Timorously he peered

kind of new foreigners had come to his

whip and disappeared

o

a

in the [

335

his

country

?

at us.

He

resounding grasses ]

What

brandished

—blue,

gold

a

ALTAI-HIMALAYA The resemblance between

and purple.

Indians and the Mongols

About the good Oirot

name

Altaian

is

North American

striking.

know.

all

the

Also they

know

the favorite

—Nicholai.

Beyond Yalui begin the Altaian

The peaked yurtas covered with the bark of the larch tree are darkened. The site for Kamlayne is seen. Here they do not say Shaman but Kam. Toward Anui and Ulala there are still Kams who “conjure forth snow and serpents.” But toward the south, Shamanism has been replaced by the teaching about the Oirot.

Ails.

White Burkhan and

have been abolished, being replaced by the burn-

Sacrifices

ing of aromatic heather and by harmonious singing.

new

pect the beginning of the

young Altaian guarded the

—who sensed

road,

•

it

is

new

We

no hardship

to

•

•

washed away by

stopped in Kurlyk.

But

the

era soon.

It

was

steps of the

a

They

ex-

woman—

world and

safe-

austere law.

first

•

The

his friend,

rains,

shall

•

exhausted the horses.

have to

sit

We

through the night.

spend the night in a place where the

teaching of the White Burkhan and his benevolent friend Oirot

The name

were born. district.

Here,

Burkhan. the caves

they expect the coming of the White

verily,

In the

cliffs

loom dark.

whole

of Oirot has been accepted by a

towering over Kurlyk, the entrances of

These caves penetrate deeply:

has not been ascertained.

There are

their

also secret passages

depth

—from

Kuen lun, through Altyntag, through Turfan; the Long Ear knows of secret passages. How many people have Tibet, through

saved themselves in these passages and caves! a fairy tale.

Just as the black aconite of the

Reality has

become

Himalaya has become

the Fire-Blossom.

When

the

white birch grew in our land, the White Tsar [

336

]

BURKHAN

WHITE

Scries)

East

THE

the

OF

of

(Banners

MESSENGER

OIROT,

ALTAI came and conquered our country. And the Tchud did not wish to remain under the White Tsar and went under the ground.

—“On the Ouimon they — spot show you the Tchud graves covered with stones” “On

And

they covered themselves with stones”

this

Tchud

the underground

The migration

departed.”

of the nations

has been imprinted there. •

The

Belovodye!

•

•

•

•

grandfather of AtamanofT and the father of

Moun-

OgniefT went in search of Belovodye: “Over the Kokushy

Over Ergor

Through Bogogorshe.

tains.

Whoever does not know the hungry steppe.

It

—by

a special path.

the path will perish in the lakes or

on

has happened also that the people from

Belovodye have come out on horseback through special passages over Ergor.

And

High

Belovodye came out.

From

it

happened

in a

long

special dates for everything.”

the south and

that a

.

skirt, a .

is

from the north, from the

exists.

east

and from

And

the

Will the subterranean Tchud not return?

not the bell of Belovodye ring out ?

On

the ridges

A

new

Consciousness of the

Do

the Agharti, the subterranean people, saddle their horses?

over Ergor

same

being impressed upon the best images.

center between the four oceans exists.

world

kind of sarafan.

.

the west, they are thinking of the same things.

evolutionary process

woman from

of stature, thin of figure, with face

She was clad

darker than ours.

There are

ago

also long

not

Does

Does not the horseman ride

?

—on the Dalnyi and on the Studenyi,

the peaks are aflame. •

•

•

•

•

“In 1923 Sokoliha with the people of Bukhtarma went to search for Belovodye.

came

letters

Not one

know

them returned.

from Sokoliha.

Belovodye but she All

of

lives well.

But recently there

She writes that she did not reach

Where

of Belovodye.” [

337

]

she

lives,

she does not write.

ALTAI-HIMALAYA when

“Since

news about Belovodye ?”

originated the

“The message came from

Kalmucks and

the

who

nally they told our forefathers belief

a

lived according to the old

and devotion.”

Which means lies

the Mongols; origi-

that at the base of information about Belovodye

communication from the Buddhist world. The same center

of teaching of

life is

Old

interpreted by the

Believers.

The way

between the Argun and Irtysh leads on to the same Tibet.

They

write about the magnetic storms and the unusual tem-

phenomena due

perature and about various natural tion of the sun spots. still

more

Next year the

effect of the spots will

Unusual northern

significant.

are

lights

be

possible.

How many

There may be shocks of the nervous system. are connected with sun spots, those

to condensa-

legends

menacing wrinkles of the

luminary. •

Ramsana their

whole

“Either

lives

watch things.

The

Sanely

America.

The

•

could not stand the low places

Of

leave or die.”

One can

course, Ladakis pass

number

the

Believer’s

he estimates

Sooner or

later

of

wagons and

a

work with

agricultural

heart has assimilated the the

industry

of

ma-

Germany and

work with America. They value the frank

they will certainly

character of the Americans and are aware of the to

It is

confidently depend on Ladakis to

people remember the Americans.

“Come

feet.

Oirot drivers are not like the Ladakis.

Vakhramey counts machines. The Old chines.

•

on heights not lower than 12,000

Ramsana.

pity for

I

•

He

Ladak.

left for

of the north.

•

common

us!” they call to the Americans.

friendly call has penetrated throughout

After discussing industry,

Vakhramey [338

]

all

traits.

This

Asia.

begins to

murmur,

chant-

some

ingly, desert.

.

.

tale;

And how

.

“And

catch:

I

shall

I

receive thee?

neither mansions nor palaces in me.”

me: the

familiar to

It is

whom

Vakhramey, about

me, thou most peaceful

receive

.

about

tale

.

I,

the desert, possess

.

“Dost thou know,

Jasaf.

Thou

singest

about

Buddha. Because the Bodhisatv has been transformed into

Jasaf.”

So Buddha

plowed

merged

Kerjak

the

into

them

led

fields

thou singest?

and cooperation

the machines

to

The

consciousness.

to

Belovodye.

But Vakhramey

is

not only versed in the cooperative move-

According

ment and

in canticles.

ones, he

not astonished

is

deer; he

the

He knows

tions.

And

knows

little

bees

and

especially the secret tradi-

This

know how and where

roots are hidden, but he loves

Gathering

in them.

anything; he knows the ores and the

the herbs and the flowers.

not only does he

and where the

at

covenant of the wise

to the

a great

is

the flowers grow,

them and

bunch of vari-colored

reach up to his gray beard, his face lights up.

And

And

Here

caressingly he speaks of their usefulness.

teleon

Healer.

the

drawn from For

thee,

And

It

is

experience.

he pets them. is

verily

Pan-

witchery but knowledge

Greetings,

Vakhramey Semeonich!

here

Vakhramey ’s

is

sister,

flowers.

Aunt

and

adorn them with bright

No

without her tell

.

.

thee

She

is

both

She

She can decorate any kind of

and casements, she can paint

lion as a guard.

Elena.

a skillful writer.

ment with ochre and madder-lake and

me

grasses, that

on Himalaya, does the Fire-Blossom grow!

knows herbs and

Let

delights

not dark

healer and a painter of verdure

will

indisputable.

all

On

birds

and

also case-

the doors

types of grass designs.

little

important

red-lead.

a

Or

she

a ferocious yellow

letter in the village

can be written

—

“And to whom art thou writing? to thy son? how to write” And a long, compassionate, heart.

—

[339

]

!

ALTAI-HIMALAYA felt epistle, full

of poetic spirit,

would flow

Such a capable

forth.

woman “With

You

see,

the people of

Bukhtarma we do not wish

to associate!

they appeared as comrades but really came to rob, and

the most characteristic thing was their ancient sarafan.

now

so

reformed. still

real

If

you meet one

human and

is

feels

Again one

—he

It is

sees a striving

.

.

.

And

.

.

of course, they have

away

turns

ashamed.

American machines.

new

Now,

they are called ‘Sarafaniki,’

.

Now we

ought

time to free the horses.”

.

have

to .

.

And

toward vigilant cooperation.

And from

herds are fattening on the high ridges.

Studenyi summit one can see best Beluha

he

his face, because

itself

—of whom

the

even

the deserts whisper.

Here on the Red regiment was destroyed by ambush. Here in

Everything bears the traces of the

highway, a the

Katun they drowned

psalmist, an old believer,

On

the Whites.

are lying the red Commissars.

And

war.

civil

the mountain ridge

under Katanda, the Kerjak

was hacked with

on the roads; and near them grows thick new

As

on the branches,

birds

so

calls a spider

—according

called misguir a spider.

What kind

of

misguir.

And

pletely

grass.

to

a guest

merchant

to the Siberian interpretation,

Turki idiom helped here?

the language of the people in Trans-Baikal,

beyond understanding.

The

root

graves

mouth flit words The inhabitants in

from mouth

forgotten and not recognized by any one.

Trans-Baikal

Many

sabers.

is

is

—

hiyus

neither

simply

Wind, this

is

is

in

com-

Mongolian

nor Yakut.

On This

They

the taiga toward Kousnetzk they eat fitches and marmots. is

dangerous because marmots bring on the bubonic plague.

say that the infection disappears

[34o]

from the fur under the

ALTAI

have

effect

Mongolia

is

the cattle plague

is

from furs?

in

the famous Spanish

bubonic plague?

to the

the rays

Is

not

it

often the breeding place for epidemics.

common.

also very

One

gets used to

In Lahore, in Srinagar, in Baramula, cholera was

everything.

raging

form

when

can ascertain

Whence came

and how much?

influenza, so similar in

And

who

But

influence of sun rays.

when we were

Kashgar,

One

scarlet fever.

Khotan

In

there.

was small pox;

there

gets used to anything.

Oirot horses are sturdy, as are also the horses from Kuldja

and

Olet.

The Karashahr

sturdy and are

race horses

and Badakhshans are not

adaptable for the mountains.

less

The Mongols and Buriats are anxious to see various countries. They want to visit Germany and France. They love America and Germany. The need of broadening one’s horizon is demonstrated by them in an ancient parable of a frog and a turtle: The frog lived in a well and the turtle in the ocean.

came

and

to the frog

“In your opinion

“Much

larger,”

him

my

times as large?”

.

well ?” .

.

“Much

the turtle as a boaster

The

.

turtle

of the vastness of the ocean.

my

the ocean twice as large as

is

answered the

times as large as

away

told

But the

“Much

.

larger”

and

a

.

.

.

.

.

“Wouldst thou say three

turtle. .

well?”

.

.

liar.

larger.”

.

.

Then

.

.

.

.

.

“And

four

the frog chased

.

Popovtsi, the Bezpopovtsi, the Striguni, the Priguni, the

Pomortsi, the Netovtsi (not recognizing anything, but consider-

many incomprehensible among the Semeiski (Old

ing themselves “of the old faith”) afford discussions.

And

toward Trans-Baikal

Believers exiled to Siberia with their entire families), also are

added the Temnovertsi, and the Kalashniki. Temnovertsi has

his

he alone prays.

If

own

ikon closed with

some one

else

[34i

Each one of the

little

doors, to

which

should pray to the same ikon, 1

ALTAI-HIMALAYA would become

it

They pray

more strange

Still

before the ikon through a

We have

(a loaf of bread).

little

never seen nor heard of

are

Among

Pashkovtzi,

Hlysti,

also

the green

cannot perceive

all

and blue

hills,

among

the

was

He

upset.

It

And

at the

offered to send

to

railroad line

Up

man whom we

the

‘then’?”

.

by mail

it

.

“Yes,

it

known

is

But

we

after consulting Biisk.

—connecting

the heart

this

line.

When, The mys-

“Yes?

before the war.”

.

.

.

also

can go on a “Dodge” up to Urumchi

up

up

to Kuldja,

Life forges a vital

web

at least

to

Chuguchak, up

itself,

to Semipala-

of communication.

Tales creep in from Kobdo.

veying to us

America!

becomes synonymous with the “pre-war epoch.”

From Peking one which means

He had

to Biisk.

and Novosibirsk. They say that even

went through

engineers .

as

it

from Barnaul was planned

terious “then”

tinsk.

en-

Katanda, even in pre-war times a

to

of Altai with Semipalatinsk

then

fillet,

extend the railroad line to Katanda, in two

from Beluha.

stages

beard and low

From there we sent America. The telegraph operator

he promised to send

planned

is

and Molokans.

the taiga thickets, one

never dealt with such a fearful animal insisted.

of 1926!

the last telegraph station.

is

telegram ever sent to

first

beliefs

carrying with him.

is

Kan

Ust

summer

in the

one cannot judge what the heavy-garbed counter

Kalashniki.

opening in a \alach

Stundisti

Glancing

curves.

—the

heard much, but such obscure

—and

we have Here

unfit!

Every one

is

interested in con-

something of unknown Mongolia, of the

land of magnetic storms, mirages of the sun, and cruciform

Every one wants to

moons. thing

He

is

strange.

They

tell

know

about Mongolia.

of a sentinel

who was

.

.

.

Every-

eaten by dogs.

hacked seven of them, but could not save himself from the

pack.

A

Mongolian commander [

in Uliasutai ate a

342

]

human

heart.

!

ALTAI who say Chinese. On the

There are some it

was

a

was

it

Iro

a

Russian and some

and toward Urianhai there

prophecy was born

to a

the reincarnation of the

do not recognize

Gegen was never reborn

On

always in Tibet.

was

either the

either as

the

also

born in China.

cliff

so-called

Mongolian or Chinese, but

way from

“mineral

On

Guards!

But

one or the other: Bogdo

Uliasutai to

wild people in furs jumped out and threw stones

They were

much

Shaman woman. They whisper about Mongolian Bogdo Gegen. And others

say that another unusual being authorities

is

think

who pronounced some

Also on the Iro a strange boy

gold.

who

the

way

oil” flows into the desert.

to

Kobdo some

at the

machine.

Manchuria from a

There

also exist such

magnetic places that even an automobile slows up.

Thus

at the cross-road are

design. it

And how

woven complicated

can they exist without news?

would not be worth while

tea

to

with a strong essence of

go

to a far-off ail

Mongolia

tales.

In this case,

and

to

drink

attracts attention.

—strange incomprehensible people,

“Blacksmiths of Kurumchi”

who not

carpets of Asiatic

only passed but also lived within the boundaries of Altai

and Trans-Baikal.

The

generally accepted divisions of Huns,

Alans and Goths are divided into manifold unaccountable sub-

To

divisions.

such an extent

is

everything obscured that coins

with exact dates are sometimes attributed to completely noncorrelating, temporarily established periods.

nameless

suri, stone figures; walls of

cities

Stagstones, Kerek-

— although

all

have

been written about and counted, yet the paths of the peoples

have not been the

last

clarified.

How

remarkable are the textures from

Hun’s graves which completed the famous Siberian

antiquities

There

exists a

legend about a Black Stone, which appears

the dates of great events.

If

you compare

[343

]

all

at

the verbal dates

ALTAI-HIMALAYA of India, Tibet, Egypt

and Mongolia, then

remind you that apart from the record of

down

set it

another history of the world.

their coincidence will

historians, there

The Kalmucks and Mongols

being

Especially significant

compare the testimony of completely unrelated

to

is

is

nationalities.

recognize from traces

by

left

horses and camels, the origin and the quantity of the cargo.

They

will say:

Two

horses are

“A horseman worn out and

passed here, leading the third one

two

Or “A

fresh.”

is

horses.

herd of horses passed by and with the herd are two horse-

men.”

.

.

.

Different occurrences

from the recent wars were

related to us.

One horseman

volunteered to force the surrender of a whole

regiment.

He

took his comrade and a big drove of horses.

“More,” he

said, “is

rection of the

He

not needed.”

drove the horses in the

wind and he himself went with

his

comrade

di-

to ne-

He demanded, “Surrender your arms at once, otherwise lead my whole army upon you.” They reflected, perceiv-

gotiate. I

will

ing the pillars of dust from the drove; then they surrendered

And

the army.

go

to

in

It is

This

to surrender.

is

Again they

report: “It

is

—they will go on horseback for

rumored

that you were lost.”

unquenchable desire for slander and that

They this

tell

a

not a fairy tale of Jengis-

possible that for a second time they will bury

say

comrade

a recent event.

Rumors even outride the motors two hundred miles to drink tea.

this

his

Thus he forced

advance and lead back the troop.

whole regiment

Khan.

commanded

the audacious fellow

many

imitations

amusing

way, using

my

stories

of

my

paintings

name, earned money. ]

it

Whence

is

false inventions

and even mention

[344

one?

Is

are

several

They

?

They

circulating.

men who

say that V.

in

and

— ALTAI R.

worked

that way.

before the war.

I

remember one very

The poor

collector

who

immeasurably grieved.

you

that I

to see a

few imitations

large painting not un-

my

composed from fragments of various of

cleverly

to

had a chance

I

to the

we saw

called

me

approve his purchase, was

to

may

Friends, they

Museum.

works.

Look, beware!

bring such imitations

So often

happened

it

paintings as well as whole albums falsely signed.

remember one painting by Rustschitz signed with my name.

They speak about

the destruction of

“Call of the Serpent”

is

many

of

from the Academy.

lost

my

paintings

“The March,”

“Unkrada,” “Building of the Walls,” “Sviatogor” and others are lost.

Of

them

course they consider

paths of objects are so unexpected.

came

across such subtle play of

—but

who knows? The Collecting Old Masters, we

lost

life.

A woman traveler, a painter, visits us. A geological expedition comes. A conversation about artists: Juon, Mashkov, Kanchalovsky, Lentulof, Saryan, Kustodief hold their ground. is

Dobujhinsky went

shaky.

Somof.

.

.

Benois

They do not mention Bakst has died. The young

to Lithuania.

They do not know

ones are growing.

.

that

StchusefT and Stchuko

go forward boldly.

The woman painter walks about, sketches old corners, gates, window casements, various beams and the little horses on cornices, as though making an inventory before a distant journey. The various tiny horses will depart from the roofs.

But with what will they be

well as the pattern of the chintzes.

replaced?

The “Viennese”

bring in culture. of the future bells

life.

Here

is

From

chair and the fading calico

a task for the

whole conception

is

for the building of a house an alert [

345

and from the peal of

symphony; though

a

1

do not

young: Give an image

factory whistles

some one has synchronized

unsuccessful, the

Let them depart, as

truly resonant.

hand

is

as yet

it is

And

thus

necessary and dis-

ALTAI-HIMALAYA passionate

Here Ikon

labor.

hovsky and Holuisky

from Mastersky,

painters

Pale-

work new importance.

lent the

In the East, they apply the externalization of sensitiveness not

only to separate individuals but also to groups and seemingly to

whole

districts.

The

result

a tremendous experiment in

is

And

the application of psychic energy. silently

this is

all

being done

and anonymously.

Behold and be surprised: books, paintings, songs, dances and buildings

—

all

anonymously.

upon

these are sent out

Books are

the waves of the world

attributed, according to tradition, to a

certain author, but he himself does not put his

manuscript. of Potala

On

not inscribed.

name

of the architect

on ceramics, on metal

faience,

the

art

one can sometimes see the trade-mark but not the name.

crafts

And

is

Paintings are not signed; the

name upon

in this

far behind.

fundamental anonymity the East has

One must

from the

learn

must absorb the psychology of the false visitors; the

the

West

East, but for that

The

one

East does not love

East easily discerns masquerading imitations.

And

the East will never forget

East

is

rendered

East.

left

at the

very

its

decision.

The judgment

moment.

first

of the

All the patches of

corrections only serve to intensify the clownishness of the imitative attire. •

The tion of

•

discovery of Theremin:

human hands which

the wall in the next room.” “scientific.”

•

•

•

“We saw on

took place

At

last

the screen the

at the

mo-

same time behind

the “miraculous” becomes

Finally, one begins to turn to the real study of all

of the properties of energy.

Just

when we

when we

did not ask; just

did not expect, he

himself spoke and demonstrated his knowledge of special places.

Our

simpletons would have considered this a fairy tale or an

[346

1

— ALTAI unusual revelation; yet here he smilingly closed his yellow khalat

knowledge of

and proved

his

“And with

that place,

now

and where they

certain ones

live.

for fifteen years there have been

no

communications.” •

To

Tashi-Lama

the

in

•

•

•

•

Peking came

group of Chinese

a

This reminded

ing for passports for the passage to Shambhala. us of the letter

which was written from Boston

Whence and how

ask-

Shambhala.

to

come together? Were Lao-Tzin? Or because

has this Chinese group

they attracted by

the wanderings

of older writings?

Or by

the

of

book of the Abbot of Wu-t’ai-shan.

Some time ago one would have ridiculed that fact but now a great deal has occurred. The literature has become so enriched recent invention

that the

laboratory of research.

and “magic” have passed into the

And

the skeptics are indignant, but only

because of their complete ignorance and unenlightenment. the most obtuse thinkers ask

“What

does

One may

mean?”

it

Even

speak about the significance of that which happens but the fact itself

by

They

now

does not remain unobserved.

of the experiment of Manouilof,

tell

searches into the sex of plants

who

has

and minerals and

masculine and feminine origin of

human

blood.

made

re-

also into the

Experiment

with the mineral “pyrite” gives a result long since indicated by the science of the East: “Pyrite produces crystals of

one a kind of cube and the other very same reaction

—one And

is

form of dodecahedron.

poured into the

test

will get a discoloration of fluid

if

the

discovery

is

new

dodecahedron

They

If

the

tube with cubic crystals

—the

masculine reaction.

same be performed with the dodecahedron

a purple color results

ning.

a

two kinds

—the feminine reaction.”

crystals,

For the West

this

but the ancient formulae of the East speak of the

as the

Mother

of the

World

—the feminine

begin-

also point out about the purple physical feminine [

347

]

You can imagine with what calm

emanation.

of the East listens to the

“new”

smile the scientist

“Hemo-

discoveries of the West.

globin in the blood of animals and chlorophyle in the juice of

And

plants are similar in their nature.”

the scientist of the East

nods, as a sign of an age-long assent.

Know! Know without

When

at last will

fear

and

in the entire measure.

people walk out of the foggy twilight of

“mysticism,” to the study of sunlit reality

?

When

will the dark-

ness of the cave transform itself into the radiance of space?

The horns

and the

of the deer

spring blood which

powdered horn

the

of

gum

Altaians

chew

must be

investigated.

the

of

fir tree tar.

the walls are

At

still

room

the gates

In the region of

Ak-Kem

per-

•

•

•

a red chalice sits

is

musk

•

Old

Believers.

seen the four corners of the former ikons.

painted on the wall.

is

He came

a white dog.

The White Burkhan, in

is

All the properties of

are stopping in the former chapel of the

In the next

The

deer.

the nettle of the cedar and the larch.

®

?

the

a strong excretion.

musk of the Tibetan The Kabarga feeds upon

fore

research into the

these woolly horns of course

fills

the

On

of

now

to

What is the difference between ram and the musk of Altaian Kabarga ?

meated with

We

Kabarga up

One must make

are regarded as precious wares.

healing qualities

of

jet

of course,

Ak-Kem

is

with

us.

also the Blessed

Where-

Whence ? Buddha.

The water Pure Belovodye. Through Ak-Kem We recall the conclusion of Csoma

are traces of radio-activity.

milky white.

the fiftieth latitude passes.

de Koros. •

About two

•

•

•

o’clock in the night, [

348

•

on the second of August, ]

east

ALTAI of the village Altaiskoye, a large, powerfully luminous meteorite fell.

To the

south of Verkhiniouimon,

the ridges, stones pit

on the summit of

last year,

and sand were erupted

as if

A

by an explosion.

was formed. Chalice”

“Unspilled

mountains.

Purity

mountains

his chalice.

— the •

“The Blacksmith Siver

exact center

— is

narrative of the

carries

from

a

mountain.

Good

on the Siver

on Siver Mountain.

is

In Altai, on the right bank significance

Its

being likened

is

Sayn Galabyn sudur

is

•

•

•

•

All the trees were charmed against harming Baldur.

was forgotten

struck Baldur.

“the

Era.” •

mistletoe

the

The Sumyr, Subur, Sumbyr, Siberian-Sumeru: The

world-mountain, Sumeru.

to the

he

•

of Sviatogor

from the four oceans.

of Katun, there

And

forges the fate of humanity,

The grave

Mountains

•

•

most reverberant

the

blue,

Phalut.

itself as in

•

Mountains.”

most

—and

the arrow

from

One

very mistletoe

this

All the animals gave blessings for the building

of the temple in Lhasa, but one, the gray bull,

was forgotten and

he was the one who, in the form of an impious king, rebelled

Nothing

later against the true teaching.

“Even

lected in the structure.

a

mouse

that exists can be negwill

gnaw through

the

knots.” •

Katun White

is

welcoming.

is

The

Beluha.

and cedars

?

Whose

•

•

•

The Blue Mountains

flowers are vivid

Who

are calming.

approachable

•

resonant.

and the green

has said that Altai

heart has

are

become

is

cruel

grasses

and un-

fearful of the austere

power and beauty ?

On clear

the seventeenth of

and reverberant.

*Zvenigorod

—The

August we beheld Beluha.

Verily, Zvenigorod * !

City of Bells. [

349

]

It

was

so

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Beyond Beluha there appears the crests of Kuen lun so beloved to the heart, and beyond that “the mountain of the Divine

Queen” and “Five Treasure Troves “the

Queen

of the

written, the spoken

And

of the Snows.”

White Snows,” and

all

herself,

the written and un-

and the unspoken.

“Between the Irtysh and Argun. Bogogorshi, over Ergor

itself,

rides a

[

350

]

Over Kokushi. horseman.”

.

.

.

Through

!

Part XI

MONGOLIA (1926-1927)

Bang! that

We “We

The

shot.

George had

moment.

gone away from the window

just

Who shot ? Was it intentional, or was

are forewarned:

Our Americans

annexed.

milla and

window.

bullet pierced the

it

We

arrive.

Boris

is

go with

will

prank ?

I

answer:

The

doctor

found.

Lud-

with them. is

very

at that

even for one

shall not delay

After a long correspondence, N. K.

Raya

a

good

It is

“But you will not depart.”

shall depart as always.

day.” is

A

us: the first thirteen-year-old girl

traveler into Tibet.

The Tibetan Donyer (Consul)

is

He

coming.

brings a Tibetan

The Donyer gives Our knowledge of Buddhism entitles

passport and a letter to the Dalai-Lama.

such passports to pilgrims.

us to receive the same attention.

Four Buriat lamas come and ask us

They saw

the banner of the Expedition

with Ak-Dorje on top.

We

— the

them with

And

like recruits they

little

signs of

walk through

George put them through a military

bought eight more

machine gun standing

rifles.

Everybody

in the dining

room.

amused by

is

us.

image of Maitreya

All the servants have put

Ak-dorje upon their caps.

Ulan Bator Khoto.

to take

Let them

a

drill.

Lewis

know

that

we have enough arms Coincident with our maneuvers, a Mongolian detachment was practicing to storm the stronghold.

And on

convoy went through the same maneuvers. [35i

]

the other side our

You can imagine

ALTAI-HIMALAYA how

completely confounded were both parties

when

they con-

fronted each other! •

“The Ruler

•

•

•

Shambhala.” *

of

•

This painting coincides un-

expectedly with the prophecy of the

appeared and the heads of west, but the

A

East.”

and begs

hand

make

“The Great Rider

people were turned towards the

of the Rider turned

all

peoples toward the

from the Mongolian government comes

representative us to

all

Lama.

a design for the temple-shrine

where

will

be placed the painting “Ruler of Shambhala” with other venerated objects. •

The Era”

book

is

•

•

•

•

“New

publication of “Foundations of Buddhism,” and

being completed.

It is difficult

The former

in a little printer’s shop.

ographer,

lovingly

Buddha” with

redraws

to give a fine

the

for

lama,

to the

now

a lith-

book “The Conquering

Again the messenger from the

the fiery sword.

Government comes. They beg for permission Mongolian “Foundations of Buddhism.”

Much

form

expectation and excitement!

to translate into

Nevertheless,

we

did not

E. P. tensely stands at the threshold and

delay our departure.

Him, who

solves all things.”

And

G. hustles about; he knows much.

One

says: “I await the solution of

here comes a telegram.

can sometimes converse with him about the most sacred legends. It

was he

also

who

told us of a

of the Teacher to Mongolia.

beginning of the

tale in

Thus is the entire desert do not know how Tibet Tibet,” tic.

is

It is

India and

its

will greet us.

beautiful, then “Great Tibet” errs

in

visit

strange to have heard the

conclusion in Mongolia.

encircled by one intense thought.

But often humanity

*The

Mongolian version of the

its

If

We

Ladak, called “Little

must be unusually majesappraisals

and the small

painting of Nicholas Roerich presented to the Mongolian government.

[352

]

MONGOLIA Unprejudiced, without superstition,

“proves to be great.”

we

shall

observe the reality.

Again

unexpected friends.

Among them

and prove an

to depart

And

and expectations.

of difficulties

sorts

all

the Esperantist.

again

They help

us

Like towers, are the

attentive escort.

highly packed automobiles.

There

is

a fully accredited story that

prophecy and then became normal.

in Sikhim.

The

It is

an extraor-

The prophecy proved

same one about the future Mongolia

lama

river Iro

Shortly after his birth he pronounced a

dinary child was born.

the

on the

well

remembered

as

was given

in

Mongolia.

to be

by a

to us

action of will used at a great distance has been remarkably

developed in Mongolia.

lama wrote

a

Quite recently one young Mongolian

book about the path

to

Shambhala. Books about

this

path written by the Tashi-Lama, the Abbot of Wu-t’ai-shan, a

known. The

Buriat lama, are also

Many

face in this direction.

understand of the

them it

is

all

Mongolian lamas know

meaning

Whenever we asked

a great deal.

showed deep knowledge. But then,

In the

From

the Gobi, the

it

the late

Bogdo-Gegen

Mongolia are enveloped

places in

camp among

Of

Ulan Bator Khoto, the most far-famed

the so-called Manjushri Khit.

was kidnapped. All

all

Some

of Shambhala.

not so easy to win their confidence in spiritual matters.

the monasteries close to is

Mongols

other neighboring nationalities also

the reality of the

questions, their answers

aspirations of the

the yurtas and the herds,

Mongols of our convoy

in legend.

upon the

hills of

are heard singing a song

about Shambhala recently composed by a Mongolian hero, Suche Bator:

“We march

to the

holy war of Shambhala.

reborn in the sacred land.” nantly, the golia they

.

Mongols send out

know

.

.

And

thus, valiantly

their hopes.

the reality of Shambhala.

[353

]

Even

in

Let us be

and

reso-

new Mon-

In Ulan Bator Khoto,

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Dukang of Shambhala is already fenced around. The Mongols know about the arrival of the Ruler of Shambhala to Erdeni Dzo and Narabanchi. They know about the great “Guardians.” They know of the great times. They know of the Chalice of Buddha which, after it left Peshawar, the

for the future

site

was preserved in Karashahr and disappeared

know

of the

coming

Ones

of the Blessed

to Altai.

They know

the true significance of Altai.

They

for a time.

of the

They know White Moun-

They know the sacred signs above the ancient Suburgan near Khotan. They know the news from China. Through all tain.

the silent spaces of Asia

They know

future.

is

heard the voice of the

that the time of Maitreya •

•

•

is

spirit of the

come.

•

•

In the automobiles, crossing the small rivers in the spring and because of the lack of roads, If

we have

one can traverse seventy miles

it is

breakdowns

a day.

indeed a lucky day.

Ordi-

ten

one does not make even twelve miles.

narily,

Many

(old graves), Kurgans: traces of great migrations. able stone figure that

now

Kereksurs

A

remark-

—they say that here lived a notorious bandit and

he has become

a

guard of the Path. The

travelers

smear

the lips of the statue with grease in order to request a favor.

Konchak, our

servant, stands for long before this

demands

peatedly

that

we have

skulls

and bones, the corpse of

coat.

T urpans,

wild geese,

a

all sort

a

good road.

image and

On

re-

the way,

baby wrapped in a sheepskin of ducks

fly

toward the north.

Herds of kulans. It is

road

evident that

is

not marked.

direction.

poor. Beise.

we

And,

shall not

The

for the

go

The

local guides themselves confuse the

most

part, the automobiles are altogether

we can reach the There we shall have to take If

far in our automobiles.

only

[

354

border, the monastery

camels.

]

Yum-

MONGOLIA We

That which was

hear legends.

by the “Ruler of Shambhala”

Dzo

Erdeni

is

The monastery

place.

Narabanchi and

to monasteries in

Yum-Beise

confirmed in various palaces.

windy

unpleasant,

told us about the visitation

is

an

not an inviting

itself is

Beyond and above the

one and the lamas are not gracious.

monastery, on the mountain, a tremendous phallus

erected.

is

.

.

.

There are endless negotiations concerning the engaging of the

They propose

caravan.

By

Anhsi) in three weeks. camels; by that time

it is

go

to

far

as

the end of April

smuggler,

is

found,

uncultivated

parts.

of water, but the

and knows

who

it

is

An

offers to lead us

new

it is

by a short road through

Usually no one goes there, fearing lack

lama has passed there no

that there are wells, streams

best to take the short

direction

Lama.

is

than twenty times

less

and

springs.

assures us that

pect our guide

Ja-Lama?

of

we

this,

now

the region

one

may

He knows

too

much

which we

Gobi

is

•

on our

•

flat

White

may have

dried.

]

The danger

in the

Sometimes the mouths

of the wells are filled with fallen animals.

[355

—pink—blue—and

slopes with a layer of stones.

not be caught in this stony gale.

that the wells

shall pass

new way, however.

•

gales bury the

the confidence

him and is too sure that He knows how Ja-Lama made

with him.

•

sus-

of

Limitless seems the Central Gobi.

One must

We

pass these places safely.

decided to go by this

The

of this

The lama guide

—may he not himself have been in

•

slaty black.

for this

his fellows are dispersed.

dangerous.

is

his prisoners erect his city citadel

We

up and

at this

the presence of the bands of the notorious Ja-

shall pass safely

way.

But

The only danger

way.

But he was himself killed and

Notwithstanding

and during

old lama guide, a

season even on the general road the wells also dry

reason

(beyond

not good for

hot, the camels are shedding,

time their strength leaves them.

this

Chibochen

as

One can

avoid the

— ALTAI-HIMALAYA lack of water by taking another direction to the east, although the Chinese bands infest these regions.

Night.

Fires.

van was looted. loud

rifle

Suddenly the night

The

shot.

Recently within this canyon a cara-

Sentries.

stamped

fires are

silence

A

out.

armed with revolvers, lies low. Who opened From somewhere comes the barking of for a volunteer to reconnoiter. to sing, all

is

well.

A

It is

He

caravan, did the shooting. fires

our men,

line of

fire

on our camp ?

We

dog.

a

decided that

vigilant silence and, at

“A Chinaman,

darkness comes a merry song:

broken by a

is

if

call

he begins out of the

last,

proprietor of a

got frightened at the sight of our

and thought we were robbers.”

Nyerva, leader of the caravan, whistles to the heat of noon.

Like

ancient Greece, the

Mongol

tips

of the desert grass

and

the

Mongol winks,

What

of winds!

a barterer of

as

in

winds on the shores of

whistles long in a

stir

wind

attract the

minor key and the

in a breeze.

;

The

breeze

calling our attention to this.

a subject for an opera or

rises

Barterers

symphony.

From the white pebbles on the bosom of the Gobi the hand of an unknown traveler has fashioned certain figures. There are sacred inscriptions; but there are also erotic drawings repulsive

amidst the majesty of the desert.

Again precautions Mongolian Ja-Lama or

We

sentries.

necessary to don

We approach the city of the notorious robber Tushegun Lama. We will camp somewhere nearby

hills.

was recently tered.

it is

kaftans.

for the night.

behind the

Again

are necessary.

In the dense twilight some objects loom dark

A

killed

dog

barks.

.

.

by the Mongols,

did not light our

In the

.

fires for

morning we hear [356

Although Ja-Lama himself his

bands are not yet

the night.

We

scat-

double the

the astonished exclamation ]

— MONGOLIA “Here

is

On

the city above us!”

the towers and walls

—a

up

the hills high

veritable citadel.

picturesque. George and P. K., with

It

is

are perched

imposing and

ready, go to investigate,

rifles

and the Mongols bid them farewell with warnings of caution.

We

watch through our

on the wall

—

means

it

But, finally they appear

field glasses.

now

that the robbers

have deserted the

castle.

He was

Ja-Lama was not an ordinary bandit.

Law from

Petrograd University and became a high lama of

Would

Tibet, possessing great occult knowledge.

have

erected

afar?

What

this

upon

city

high

a

elevation,

carried for long afterward

the bazaars of Mongolia

?

.

.

on

moving

•

through

What

a scenario

•

•

peculiar riders approach the caravan

gols about the

amount

of

gesticulate, indicating

—“Ja-Lama’s us We

a spear

picture! •

and

from

visible

All through the Central Gobi, the

.

legend of Ja-Lama will persist for a long time.

Some

a night-robber

thoughts and dreams fretted the gray head of Ja-

Lama, which was

for a

a graduate of

arms we

carry.

and ask the Mon-

The Mongols whisper

something very great and then inform

men; they

will not attack us.”

troops.

Vague rumors reach us about some Chinese To encounter them would be worse than Ja-Lama’s men.

We will

encircle

near Anhsi.

Anhsi by night. But Nivra

finds us before the walls of Anhsi.

They

hasten to cross the broad, swift stream. already have

left

loses the

way.

Dawn

turn the camels and

By evening we

shall

the boundaries of Gansu, and shall enter the re-

gion of Kuku-nor.

On

the mountains are the ruins of fortresses

landmarks of the former rebellions of the Dungans. Swift streams.

Before us

is

[

the

357

]

snowy ridge

of Nan-shan.

ALTAI. HIMALAYA The its

Central Gobi

is

ended.

eroded auriferous ridges,

Interior Mongolia, waterless, with is

In the mighty bottoms

ended.

of these departed streams are concealed of the giants of antiquity.

It is

the

first

we have been camping on

ten days

all

manner

of remains

Already for

of June.

the silvery banks of Shih-

Nan-Shan glows in the sunrise. The mountain stream murmurs. Whitely gleam the herds of goats and rams. Riders speed by us is there any news? Rumors are in the air. When shall we advance? They try to frighten us by telling us pao-ch’ang.

—

There are many reasons: The grass must

not before September. thicken.

and

also

The camels must fatten and their wool must grow; the treacherous swamps of Tsaidam must dry. The Blue

River will also subside by

and Chamnar, and

the Chinese, overcharges us.

await news from Su-chow

meantime,

the

in

We

fall.

The

Machen, pupil of

sly

old cheat calls

me

“the Ameri-

can King” and frequently during the day gallops over from his

camp

own.

to our

•

Because

we

•

successfully administered medicine to them, the

Mongols request us dented drought.

In spite of

•

•

all

to invoke the rain, because of the unprece-

They

offer us five dollars

the machinations of

named

Sharagol under the ridge

from each

Machen we moved on

after

Humboldt.

the cloudy quicksands of the Sharagol river with taries just in time.

horse.

Ulan davan (16,000

The Dalai

Konchok almost drowned

We camp beside feet)

a

We

to

crossed

its

endless tribu-

his

gray Chinese

mountain spring on the on the road

yurta.

foothill before

to Tibet.

Tibetans relate that during the time of the flight of the

Lama

in 1904, at the

horses felt a severe tremor. that they

were

at the

Chang-thang

The

Dalai

crossing, the

Lama

explained to

hallowed border of Shambhala. [

358

]

men and them

Does the

MONGOLIA Dalai

Lama know much

Shambhala ? The Tashi Lama knows

of

far more. •

•

On

we

July fifth

Shambhala

tent of

•

•

•

celebrated the Festival of Maitreya.

In the

was performed and neighboring

a long service

Mongols came and sang with our lamas. •

•

•

•

•

Mongolian “noblemen” drape around themselves the broad

They wear gray

pleated medieval kaftans.

though

felt caps, as

from the paintings of Gozzoli, and sacred chains and amuaround

lets

Whirlwind and sandstorm.

their necks.

o’clock in the afternoon

we had

box ourselves

to

At two

tightly within

the tents and light the candles. I

draw

Suburgan on the

a plan of a

site

of

On

the Great Guardian stopped for the night.

Nyerva from

new

Kumbum

Lama

to

Shambhala.

K. has been galloping to Mahoi for camels.

P.

Three new books are being compiled. with snow; the

air

the views of

New

They whisper:

is

fresh

and the

which our

heights, toward

York.

“It

day passes without

is

its

The peaks glow white

stillness recalls

spirits yearn.

the attainment of

is

a

They

Since

let

•

•

•

are building a

them go

hundred

a

•

Mongols

is

cele-

new obo (a kind of Suburgan); The young people of our camp

to the festival.

morning we have

language which,

Not

conversations on miraculous America.

there are races and festivity!

beg us to

Promised Land.

Shambhala!”

July fourteenth the annual holiday of the

brated.

our Himalayan

The Mongols admire

For them America

•

On

July eleventh

monastery brings the prophecies and the

prayer of the Tashi

For three days

Shambhala where

discussed the need of a Pan-Asiatic

at least elementally,

dialects of Asia.

would

reconcile the three

In the evening our lamas read the [

359

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA prayers to Maitreya and Shambhala.

what meaning

stand

The

word Shambhala

At night

the

West could under-

or Gessar has for Asia!

The middle

and wind begin.

rain

autumn.

the

If

of July

is

more

like

the rain beats on the mountains.

In the midst of the rain and storm, most unexpected news

Such conquest of space

reaches us.

is

amazing.

news of the passing here of the Mahatma a veritable

On

It

forty years ago.

even

is

Again

cold.

is

July twentieth directions of the utmost importance reached

They

us.

buran and showers.

There

No

results.

may

lead to certain

as yet suspects

our immediate

are difficult to execute but they

one in the caravan

program.

On

the next day also important

know

our fellow-travelers did not

who

Raya,

is

This

is

and bring the

Lai

Once

the fundamental teachings

treasure

Mongols help

in the erection

—norbu-rinpoche—tiny

seeds to put into the chalice of the Suburgan. laid the

these dates

not only our day, but also the day

of the completion of our Suburgan. it

Compare

life.

July twenty-fourth.

of

it.

already thirteeen years old, has

Thus do

never yet heard of Christ. vanish out of

of

Gold was brought from Ulan Davan.

with your events. again the gale.

news came and once again

stones

Within

is

and also

Ak-dorje and the Maitreya Sanga.

—in

The end

Hindu means of July: “I

red.

am

going joyously into the

—the wandering stone.

exilis

thing impending.

battle.”

Lapis

Yesterday the Buriats foretold some-

Precisely, “I

am

[360]

sending the best currents for

!

MONGOLIA the

We decide to start We shall dare 19th.

happy decision of the works.”

Tsaidam

on August

to Tibet

new

dangerous Tsaidam in a

Toward evening on

•

•

•

the twenty-eighth

We

along with his sword and the ring.

down

him, when,

The

torrent swept

Much was

kitchen, the dining tent, George’s tent.

told us that

Many

irreplaceable things

on the eve of

the

destroyed and to our

were destroyed. N. V.

some

inexplicable

were destroyed by

to Y.

fire.

It is

Correlate

!

•

•

•

to consecrate

It

of

Tsaidam

Prince Kurlik Beise sends envoys; he

it.

offers his caravan.

•

The Elder Lama

complete the Suburgan.

comes

to hear

away

walked up

his departure, for

by us •

We

We

yurtas were swept away.

reason, the tankas sent significant

had hardly time

This was the result of the strange

night-tumult in the mountains.

waist in water.

N. V. came galloping

the canyon, in place of the peaceful stream,

swept a devastating torrent.

many Mongol

cross

to

direction.

•

•

through

is

significant because the Prince usually

molests travelers.

On camp

August in the

fifth

—something

Kukunor

district

We

remarkable!

not far from the

were

in our

Humboldt Chain.

In the morning about half-past nine some of our caravaneers noticed a

began

remarkably big black eagle flying above to

watch

this

of our caravaneers remarked, bird.” tion

And

sun, like a this

he shouted in

from north

to south,

thing changed in

had time

it

to take

its

“There

this is

Seven of us

same moment another

something

his astonishment.

far

We all saw, in

at great speed.

a direc-

from south

direction

Crossing our

camp

to southwest.

And

disappeared in the intense blue sky.

our

above the

something big and shiny reflecting the

huge oval moving

we saw how

At

unusual bird.

us.

field glasses

and saw quite

[361

]

We

distinctly

even

an oval

ALTAI. HIMALAYA form with shiny

one

surface,

side of

which was

brilliant

from

the sun. •

•

•

•

On

August seventh the Suburgan was consecrated. Gegen of Tsaidam arrived; about thirty Mongolian guests also came. We

They promised to guard only the Dungans would not

held the service to the Suburgan.

the

Suburgan of Shambhala.

de-

stroy

If

it!

There was

revolt

among

our Buryats.

nese with a false report about us.

we

They

Following the with an

official

The Mongols

are

good

of the Sining

shots.

•

•

false report of the Buryats, the

Of

our passports.

•

•

to the Chi-

Instead of the rebellious Buryats

took three Torguts with us. •

They went

Amban,

Chinese

soldiers,

arrived.

They examined

We

paid the Chinese.

course, again extortion.

are indignant about this incident. •

•

•

•

o

Unexpected guests come swiftly from out the

desert.

Toward

evening a mysterious stranger, in a beautiful gold embroidered

came galloping along. Who was he? Hurriedly he entered the tent. Without naming himself he said that he was our friend, that he must warn us concerning an attack prepared against us on the border of Tibet. He warned us of the

Mongol

garb,

need of increasing our guards and our reconnoitering troops.

Who

Thus he spoke and galloped away. say:

“He

is

monastery.”

was he?

Our lamas

either a thief or a robber or a collector for the

No one

liked the luxurious garments of the stranger.

But he was a friend.

He

desired to help.

Again an

operatic

episode. •

•

On

A

August nineteenth we

memorable night

marshes.

We

in

•

•

started

Tsaidam

•

through Tsaidam to Tibet.

—when

we

crossed

the

salt

could not stop but had to go a hundred and

[362]

MONGOLIA twenty miles without a is

invisible

and

we

yet

crossed the most dangerous parts during

the night without realizing

path are bottomless

cult but at last

If

When we it,

On

it.

and

errors

it

impossible to

is

finished.

is

in a

new and

was

It

in the shortest

is

by no means

as the

one unconsciously looked toward the west.

dam and Kuen

lun the

course, this entire space

may

these hills there

We

maps show is

be

diffi-

on the maps.

passed Tsaidam, which

glowed the endless pink sands.

direction,

all

Tsaidam was crossed

narrow

either side of the

the horse trips

false step

There are many

direction.

indicate

pits.

One

him.

extricate

In the darkness of night the road

halt.

recalled that

maps There

between Tsai-

a complete desert area.

Of

Whereas, in the folds of

unexplored.

much which

remarkable.

is

In this

from the regions of Khotan and Scherschen the ancient There may be

Buddhist monasteries might have spread. esting hermitages gols speak

little

and monumental

in the sands, of buried cities

—but

But even the Mon-

caves.

They speak

of these regions.

inter-

all this is

of caravans lost

legendary.

The gesture of greeting of the Tsaidam Mongols is remarkable. They uplift their arms as though paying their reverence to the sun.

It is

so rhythmical

beautiful gesture of the

and beautiful!

It

Hindu Brahmins

during the hour of morning prayer. the beautiful gesture of the

reminded

that

I

saw

In the same

me

in Benares

way

Mussulmans when they

of the

I

recall

are paying

homage

to the old

Mazars (tombs).

They

talk about

some foreigners who were in Taiginer and Again they say that foreigners came and

bought old things.

took away “Burkhans” from

Tun

huang.

took place at the celebrated cave temples. talk about

it

in different districts.

[363]

Not

a

Evidently something

There

is

too persistent

few things were

stolen

ALTAI-HIMALAYA for the

Museums

Europe

of

—but they talk of these especial “bur-

khans” from Kashgar, from Urumchi

to the very borders of the

Tibet.

Half-devoured corpses of

The

men and

traces of the recent battle of the

The Mongols

seen here.

horses are beside the road.

Mongols and the Goloks

removing

are

under the protection of Prince Kurlik

us.

Beise.

and hurrying

Soon we approach

which our unknown well-wisher

the Naiji Pass, the point of

warned

their yurtas

are

All seems quiet but near the

The

camp-fire and a lost long-pipe.

camp we

find a fresh

place has been recently

inhabited.

In the morning

and

P.

K.

Behind

Then

we

proceed as usual.

at a distance

on horseback

of us

all

In the front, George

—we

and the lamas.

the Torguts with the mules and further

behind, the caravan with camels, guarded by Golubin,

and Tsering.

In front of us

Elena Ivanovna, always

is

a canyon between

sensitive, hears the distant

Suddenly across the canyon among the to

hiding between the

leap,

“arangan,” meaning robbers. that

we

On

of Panagis stops,

is

armed

riders begin

Lama

shouts

hill

and be

command

of the situation.

we become The troop

evidently surprised at our unexpected

The Colonel with

out

closer to the

ma-

Oschir the Torgut and the Buryat

Buchaieff gallop toward them with threatening shouts.

become confused and

The

rest

The

Panagis, unexpectedly

as a sign of

submission lower their

of us, ready for battle, keep watch.

caught,

hills.

barking of dogs.

the peak, instead of being the attacked

the aggressors and take

two

give the order to turn back so

can occupy the peak of the

Torguts.

neuver.

Zangin

hills. I

hills,

Konchok

One of them holds a long spear— the sign declared. The chief thing is always to act boldly! arms.

[364]

that

We

war

is

wanted

— MONGOLIA to

buy the spear

—but

“We

the Panagis said,

cannot

sell

It

it.

our friend.”

is

The

next day another attack was prepared but a

snow-

terrific

storm, mingled with thunder, dispersed the superstitious Panagis.

And

so

we

crossed Naiji.

of wild yaks.

us

One

was the snow

admired the tremendous herds

them was

of

killed

names

own names from

Behind Angar Dakchin is

known

Belovodye.

Not

to the

Old

How

night, the

It is sad.

The same Kokushi

Kokushili.

is

Polo.

Toward

ancient times.

Believers

from here

far

Marco

or

Before

mountains and lakes which

to the

Mongolian lama died of hemorrhage.

which

by the Torguts.

Angar Dakchin,

ridge,

strange to give European

have their

We

on Altai

—the

seekers for

also are the sacred borders.

We

They cannot be crossed on horsesummer. But now, in the fall the water reins of the horses. Only two horses

pass the rivers successfully.

back in spring or is

in the

not higher than the

Even the Blue River with

sank.

swift current

its

was not an

obstacle.

We

Why

look for the Tibetan outposts.

Something glows white

no snow around superb.

It is

here.

in the distance. Is it a

tent?

.

But

a gigantic geyser of glauber

—

glistening in the sun

verily, a sacred

[

365

]

.

.

are they not here?

Snow—but

this salt.

there

is

something truly

is

A

boundary.

snowy mass

Part XII

TIBET (1927-1928)

October 6th

Like black spiders with long of the Tibetans, stretched

troops take our passport until they bring the

legs, are

upon the

We

camp

in the

thin, prickly weeds. tains.

flowery

two

On

days, is

and the chief commander of the

a

marshy plain overgrown with

the horizon this

is

a veritable

is

mouncemetery. Long

the lake and dead

now

ago, these were great mountains, perhaps rivals of Everest;

they are eroded and crumbled into small stones. leys

became

filled,

forming a

heavenly Himalayas, one

a bird, not

rush to

Two

his hands.

rear guard lies

Thus

to the brutal

sites,

into horrible marshes.

and almost

in his saddle

him and

take

him

off.

He

before the

The

falls

horses is

not

off his horse.

has almost no heart

strong doses of digitalis are administered.

He we

We

rub

From

the

recovers.

Further ahead Elena Ivanovana begins to

and

open

val-

an animal.

George slumps

beat.

falls

The deep

and stumbling among the ugly clumps. There

are slipping

We

hill of 15,000 feet,

Before reaching the most significant

winds.

the

titles!

middle of

them dead because

I call

for

answer of General Horchichab, that

What

tents

The border

longest ropes.

and suggest that we camp

chief ruler of the Province, Hor,

northern front.

hidden the black

are notified that

feel badly.

Lama Malonof

unconscious on the road.

The

inhospitably does Tibet greet us.

[366]

fell off his

horse

doctor hurries to him.

Museum.

Roerich

MONGOLIA

IN

TSAM

Roerich

Nicholas

by

painting

a From

TIBET

A

multi-colored banner with a bent

bagpipes.

The

Deep

firing of a salute.

Music

staff.

in the tent

gratiating speech

two

for

days.

and again requests us

Then

to stay in his

camp,

The banner

cance.

visit to

Kap-sho-pa

is

one of

little

an if

the General accompanies us into our

impression from our

and

round

his

with banners and music and the motley crowd forming

The

the

He makes

Ak-dorje of rubies.

a crosslike

is

is

On

figure of the General in a vivid yellow khalat.

Chinese cap

—drums

in-

only

camp

his suite.

insignifi-

has become bent; his sword hangs like a piece

of futile theatrical property; under the precious stones, dirt

accumulated: This

have rejected.

selves

old Chinese stuff which the Chinese themIt

no longer

is

fit

for life

and has

gone, as well as the finesse of the

ocrity

and

pression

ugliness.

from

his closest

One

art.

perceives only medi-

Probably the General thought that the im-

his yellow khalat

would be very

—none

of these Tibetan;

and

in the place

foreign button was lacking, a safety pin was stuck.

were of doubtful

fitness,

Again drums and he

salutes

The

a

rifles

from the guns. The General, with tent.

At

the

all

same time

curious to examine our things, proclaiming that “the hands

of small people

We among

must not touch the belongings of great people.”

are told that the General

the Horpa.

At

the

hunting of the musk deer. is

where

but there were plenty of musicians.

motley crowd, accompanies us to our

is

But even

great.

bodyguard was ragged and adorned with buttons from

three armies

this

lost

former decorativeness, because the quality of the handiwork

all its is

is

is

allowed to

kill

came

to settle

some uprising

same time he placed a ban on the It is

quite incomprehensible

domestic sheep and yaks,

foxes and everything savage are protected.

when wolves and But the population

holds to a different opinion and secretly hunts kulans.

[

367

]

why one

— ALTAI-HI MALAYA Our

Tibetan, Chimpa,

is

He was

dying.

useful to us during

when the Mongols decided But when Chimpa reached Tibet he to desert us after Naiji. asserted his real nature and at the crossing to the camp of the the encounter with the Panagis and

General he

This was his gratitude for

tions.

and

took our five camels, our tent and severed

left us,

all

rela-

our care during his sickness

for our priceless medicines!

Evidently even a Tibetan cannot withstand the local climate.

This

The lama from Kharchin

died from pneumonia.

Did not the

of the altitude.

body when they crept

And

bears sense the presence of a dead

camp the night of wait long. By morning his

prepares to depart for

And

and disappears.

gift

formed into

a

cruel five

height of 15,000

feet.

are stationed with us.

caravans.

We

The caravan near the repast.

Of

are trans-

summer

under whirlwinds and

gales, at

are forbidden to

passing

Every day there are new corpses

and packs of wild dogs

of the major

soldiers

buy food from the population.

his heart

who was

new

noisily divide their

104 caravan animals, ninety perish.

pneumonia and

Five

men

die

Malonoff’s body be-

and

finally

he also

dies.

stationed with us gets sick of

dies.

Gryphons and letter to the

to

two days in

Mongolian lamas and two Tibetans.

The wife

letters

corpse was

A major and some ragamuffin We are forbidden to speak to the

comes swollen from an attack of

My

?

Finally he accepts

months of encampment

slowly perishes.

tents,

Kham.

the caressing

tents, in a frost of sixty Celsius,

three

his death

them.

The General

a

died because

closer to the

they did not have to

left to

our

The Mongolian lama

the third death in our caravan.

is

eagles fight with packs of dogs over the prey.

Dalai

Lama

is

found torn on the road.

The

Colonel Bailey, British Resident of Sikhim, and to

the Consul General of the United States in Calcutta are seized.

[368

]

TIBET

We

move

are forbidden to return or to

In spite of George’s

on.

knowledge of the Tibetan language we can only study Tibetan

we cannot

starkness; but

help our condition.

life

in

tell

us that the telegraph between Lhasa and India

its

now

because

Tibet does

They

“Pellings.”

is

They

destroyed

need communication with the

not

refuse to take into consideration the doctor’s

They

was

lost

Instead of the General’s promised permission to proceed

we

certificate

about our

illness.

say that our passport

on the road although witnesses deny

this invention.

The Tibetans

remain on a plain exposed to the winds. that the General’s messenger to

Lhasa disappeared on the road.

Instead of helping, the Major prevents us

He

the neighboring villages.

passing caravans and

is

offers to

go

from buying food

without any feeling of compunction in

The

doctor

is

very pessimistic

because of the increasing

fatal illness

in disguise to India, but without

language and with

in

communication with the

forbids

the exchange of Chinese dollars.

and prophesies

us

tell

his noticeable

frost.

knowledge

N. V. of the

would end

height, this

dis-

astrously.

The seem

entire population of black

raw meat. They smoke of the fire is

They

full of unrest.

now

Horpa,

like small

Niebelungen,

They

eat

—black from

the

sleep in a seated posture.

are only covered with half-rags

—and skins.

They whisper, “The

entire district

Our yaks and have Tsampa (barley). Our

covered with snows such as never before.

sheep will perish.

We

children will die and

shall not

we

shall die.

And

all

this

misfortune

because our government treats great travelers in such an

is

inhuman

way.”

The lamas

predict that everything will turn out well,

the messenger with a propitious answer

to-morrow he increase.

On

will arrive.

But the days

the white plain

no one [369]

is

is

already coming, that

pass.

seen.

and that

The frost and gale The last horses and

ALTAI-HIMALAYA During the night the shivering animals come

camels are falling.

close to the tents, pulling the ropes as at

dawn we

find

them

skins, pull

a

And

them dead. few

steps

And

they are knocking.

if

our men, huddled in sheep-

away from

the camp.

Otherwise the

dangerous wild dogs and gryphons, the grave diggers, would give us no

One pack

rest.

tacked me.

of dogs

—about

fifteen

Every day our fire-arms are

wants to buy our arms, but in

this

at

—has

already

at-

The Major

hand.

country one must guard one’s

arms.

Again

frost

and

Finally there

gales.

is

an uprising followed by

They thought that by slander they would improve their position. They were com-

the secession of our Buryat lamas. against us

pletely unable to obtain

And

so each day goes

from Chunargen

Sharugen

to

Then we make

We

of

marching and again the same

requested permission to

encampment

at

We

Kham.

were

told:

We

Eastern Tibet again.

Again, “Me, me, me.”

At

the

fingers of the Dalai

It is

“Me, me, me,”

asked to be permitted to pass through

Everything

same time the General writes us

the “drops of clemency

governors of

General Kap-sho-pa

visit

which means, “No.” me, me.”

which

Lama.”

Nagchu

move Bon-po mon-

a short

in the vicinity of the

Only about two hours

detention. in his

by amidst the frozen plain with the dull

dead mountains.

outlines of the

astery:

work.

are dripping

“Me,

is

letters

about

from the respendent

But weeks go by.

And

finally the

themselves come.

quite unprecedented that both governors should at once

leave their province

and come personally. They come with black

eye glasses, in woolly fur caps. ished that

we

gave importance

They to the

are noisy.

a sly old

to

have strangled the

Manchurian

official.

Amban

We

[37o!

are aston-

Tibetan passport and

gether conduct themselves unreasonably.

rumored

They

One

of

them

of Sining.

endure

all

is

alto-

a lama,

The

other,

with great pa-

TIBET Now

tience.

they will transport us to

continuation of the same detention.

But somehow, somewhere, we

Some

most roundabout way.

not exceed ioo days, but

it

shall

Nagchu but it will be a They will demand gifts.

move, though perhaps in the

of us hope that our detention will

will be

more

assume 150

correct to

Thus

days and several additional days for delays on the road.

we must

count the entire detention

Of

as lasting half a year.

course during this time the Tibetans have afforded us an unusual

opportunity to become acquainted with their

Without communications with governors,

ethics.

pons,

officers, elders

customs and

life,

generals,

dzong

and lamas, we would not have any assurance

about the reality of Tibet.

Everywhere

are the signs of the cross.

coins of Nestorian khans have a cross, dhist monastery near

saddle

is

also a cross

Even upon torians

Peking

and the

the very

and over an ancient Bud-

cross.

On

Ladak and Sinkiang

the stones of

old Mongolian

the seat of the

with a

reins are also fitted out

crosses.

cross:

Not

life.

On

its

sign.

All bronze

tombs, are formed of a cross in a

fibulae,

The

fire,

but

steed of

probably from the

circle.

Everywhere are the same signs of Chintamani. pillars of the

— always

the Chinese hats

of Tibetan generals glows a ruby, crosslike dorje.

happiness carries

the

In the design of the

the swastika with the streams of

of equal arms, the eternal symbol of

Nes-

On

on the beads, on the necklaces, on the amulets same

cross.

are crosses.

and Manicheans passed broadly through Asia.

frescoes of the monasteries are

kaftan,

a

is

The

The

little

houses and the clay-beaten walls are marked by this

thrice-powerful image.

The

mules, the wrought silver vessels,

the military banners, the prayer banners, the wood-cut on the

page of a book are strengthened by the symbol of power.

Compare

the present tale with [

37 1

its

]

original source:

Now

one

ALTAI-HIMALAYA says:

“And

and

perished

hunger descended upon earth and people

great

could

longer

not

Bodhisattvas sent a shower of

food that not only were also

of

all

brought mountains of

it.

The

years to

endure.

Then

Blessed

There was such plenty of

rice.

the people fully sustained but they

rice

and erected temples and chortens

temples were of such dimensions that

walk around them, and one

it

took several

chief chorten could only be

This place

encircled in several days.

the

exists

upon an

island

where

formerly flourished the true teaching of the Blessed One.”

One must understand upon

And

earth.

it

thus: Great spiritual

hunger descended

people could no longer exist in such dreadful

Then the Great Teacher sent a true shower of spiritual food. Humanity which was exalted by this benediction erected great monuments of spiritual achievements. The measurements of these achievements are unencompassable. The conditions.

And

its

power

All around us

is

death.

teaching of Shambhala exists in a fortified place. will soon

become manifest.

One cannot For

five

believe

any statement.

months on the main road

to

China and Mongolia only

The Tibetan nomads whisper about the Of course under such conditions the difficult times for Lhasa. country cannot exist. Finally the governors of Nagchu become three caravans passed.

satisfied

our

with the

money

is

gifts,

and

through passes of 20,600 across the

easy way.

Namru Dzong, not

Shentsu Dzong,

marked on maps,

to

Saga-

Brahmaputra, to Tingri-Dzong, Shekar-Dzong,

have decided to show us left

to

feet

Kampa-Dzong and through should be

information that

exhausted, decide to send us out by a roundabout

way through Chang-thang Dzong,

after receiving the

in our

Nobody

Sepo-la to Sikhim.

all religions

mind about

Evidently they

of Tibet so that

this

country.

It

has yet crossed from Ulan Bator

Sikhim. [

372

]

no doubts is

not an

Khoto

to

TIBET The

monasteries of Bon-po of the Black faith, hostile to Buddha,

have a curious

Mass exactly

In the Black Faith, which as a Black

interest.

Buddhist

inverts the ritual of the

only denial of Buddha, and denunciation of

Buddhists left

enemies.

as

If

Buddha and direction.

sees

of all

the Buddhists encircle the altars

Bon-po takes the opposite

to right, the

one

faith,

from the

If

Swastika of the Buddhist turns in the direction of the sun, that

Bon-po must be turned

of the

have invented their

own

and

saints

special sacred books.

who

have invented a special protector

you study the biography of

replaces

Buddha; and

is

also

supposed to be of royal family.

do not allow Buddhists neither the Tashi

Lama

only a

is

They

Lama

if

legendary protector you will be

this

astonished to find the same details and events as in the

Buddha; he

They They

in the opposite direction.

to enter their temples,

nor the Dalai Lama.

life

of

The Bon-po

and acknowledge

For them the Dalai

civil ruler collecting taxes.

are very friendly with foreigners because they

that foreigners have nothing to

do with Buddhism.

believe

In the begin-

ning they greeted us heartily and proposed that we study their

we saw many inverted Buddhist symbols. But when they understood that we were in sympathy with Buddhism, their attitude entirely changed. You books and

visit

their

temples, where

can understand our astonishment in finding such things in a so-called

Buddhist country.

As

said,

I

well-to-do and are very self-assertive.

Tibetans told us that

now Bon-po

is

they are numerous and

It is

not a secret sect and

again increasing.

Not only

have these people an invented Buddha but they have mysterious deities of Swastika.

This

recalls

the prehistoric

fire-worship of the Druids

times, the

primitive religion

which has here been corrupted

the incomprehensibly strange deities of Swastika.

sacred word,

Aum,

they use the

word “A.”

teaching the same expression, “A,”

[373

]

is

of

into

Instead of the

In the old occult

used for Materia Matrix.

ALTAI-HIMALAYA would be

It

interesting to study the origins of Bon-po, as perhaps

something of the Druid and old fire-worship would be found.

why

inexplicable

It is

Dzongs

the Dzong-pons,

officials

show themselves from

(fortresses),

The people tell dark tales. The ruins of old Tibet

the most ugly side.

These ancient towers

are interesting:

and walls were molded by an aspiring type builders

knew

about Gessar

bhala.

Here

also

now

But I

there

is

Khan and

And

nothing

We

about the Ruler of Sham-

who

of this.

left

“Tchud”

penetrated

all

—tombs

on

Europe with

we meet

here in the Trans-Himalayas

tombs.

Their

of people.

were the Ashrams of the great Mahatmas.

recall the stones of the

passed the Goths

of Tibetan

their influence.

the very

same ancient

which carry

find places of ancient shrines

thoughts to the sun-cults of the Druids.

There

Altai.

The swords

one’s

of the

northern inhabitants of the Trans-Himalayas might have been taken out of the Goth graves on the South Russian steppes. fibulae of

Gothic burials

called

the

—do they not remind you of the buckles

And why was

of Tibetan tribes.

Gotha according

name

the

site

of Lhasa

And whence Whence, where and how did the

Goths migrate, driven out by

the severe moraines?

In the crystallized daily

ern Tibetans are there not found the ancient parted brothers?

Another would an

It is fit

Italian corsair.

some time ago

to missionary chronicles?

of the tribe Gotl?

forefathers of the

The

glaciers

life

traits

and by

of the northof their de-

astonishing; one Hor-pa resembles Moliere.

the type of d’Artagnan.

The

The

third, resembles

fourth, with long strands of hair,

distortion of a portrait of Hals or Palamedes;

and somber one, with an aquiline nose,

is

is

a

and that black

he not the executioner

of Philip the Second?

And

finally in the district of

we found

Doring (meaning the Long Stone)

a real field of menhirs such as in Karnak. [

374

]

During the

TIBET two marches which followed we found three more small groups

me

For

of menhirs.

was

it

a great joy to see this indubitable sign

of Druidic antiquity. •

•

“Ki-hoho” rings out the

are mutually

warned about

•

from the camp of Goloks.

call

And

he” answers our camp.

•

•

“Hoi-

whole night the enemies

so the

the incessant vigilance of our camp.

But of course the Goloks are already informed about our arms

and have taken well

The

capacity.

into consideration the extent of our military

was

verdict

our favor, and to-day

in

we

shall see

the friendly faces of the dangerous nomads.

The

dawn

frost at

is

As

cruel.

In the morning the doctor’s cognac

what doctor

a frost is

is,

it

when

and Raya

P.

K.

—or

is

as

Tibetans

One

frozen.

can imagine

The

predicted for Ochir.

is

Celsius.

health of

Ludmilla

them, Milla and Raiya

call

The

wine becomes frozen.

and expects danger.

Death

bad.

is

the strong

pessimistic as before

N. V. and

below 70 degrees

usual,

—keep

well. •

What

tiresome

hills are

•

•

•

•

mountains have long since crumbled and bles

and stones

are eroding.

There

is

the heaps of peb;

only

distasteful to the horses.

were told that on reaching Central Tibet we would be aston-

ished by the change of nature.

up

now

not a bush nor a tree

high mounds with thorny prickly grass

We

The

between Chunargan and Nagchu.

to the very

Himalayas we

crumbled mountains.

from

scurvy.

The muscles

are lax.

pinch of dirty tsampa do not is

shall

Poor Hor-pa.

than thirteen-year-old Raya.

measurable

But others smile and say that

go through

Their teeth are falling out

They have

Of course make for

lean

375

]

less

strength

raw meat and

health.

their suspicion of each other! [

a cemetery of

And how

They do not

a

im-

trust;

ALTAI-HIMALAYA they are afraid; they constantly anticipate

Mongols, in

Dunganese

spite of the sly

men compared

of misfortune.

all sort

officials,

are veritable free-

with Tibetans.

The Black Faith of Bon-po is so in keeping with the tents. Upon long ropes, like deadly spiders, the tents gleam Next

in a formless mass.

them

to

The dryness of the air lessens the The piercing wind scatters the dry

smell of decomposi-

ill

We

bones.

recall the

How

widely announced safe-passage of the Donyer of Urga.

remarkably different per about uprisings.

is

Tibet

.

.

no trouble

is

lives in the village,

ant discussions; and

then one

may

be sure of unpleas-

prepared, in spite

is

sent long since.

It

are animals are far off,

and

Finally

listen to

appears that villages where there

It

it

it

will take several days to gather

appears that as usual the peasants

Dzong-pon and

refuse to fulfill his order.

Sometimes the Dzong-pon suggests that we conduct tions directly

with the peasants and write our

own

And

villages

with our

we

have to stay near the

will

also

seal.

the seal

Dzong

for

happens that one Elder suggests

ruly one.

us to bind

He

appears

were not received; that by mistake they were

sent in another direction.

simply do not

in procuring animals.

Nothing

which were

of several da-yig-\txx.trs,

yaks and horses.

we camp

If

one gets into a dzong or monastery he

if

should be prepared for a delay.

that the da-yigs

and whis-

talk

same thing happens:

the

in the usual village, there

Elder

They

at a distance.

.

At each encampment If the

black

are black spots: refuse or

corpses. tion.

black

deliver

him

must be

many

letter to the

red.

days.

negotia-

It

Otherwise

sometimes

to us to arrest another

himself leads us to the

him and

own

all

latter’s

to Lhasa.

un-

camp and advises Our Torguts have

sometimes bound the hands of the Elder tightly behind

his

back;

then his relations come with tongues sticking out and agree to [

376

]

TIBET

KHAM,

SHARUGEN

TIBET the order of the Dalai

fulfill

Or

Lama.

it

may happen

that the

governor suggests to us to arrest the local Major and to take

him bound

At such

to Lhasa.

Major lowers

his tone

a possible

and becomes more

turn of affairs the

civil.

One

Before Saga-dzong are two unexpected passes.

is

shown

on the maps; but the other, a larger one of more than 20,000 feet, is

not indicated.

This road

shown on

is

the

maps only by

Evidently no one ever traversed

a faint outline.

There

it.

is

But the Tibetan government

the other customary southern road.

sends us through this unexplored northern path.

On

the

way

the Elders refuse to give us animals and again,

instead of the passport of the governors, they ask us to send a letter

with our

For our wax

everywhere.

seal

seal

makes

a greater

impression.

From

the crest of the pass a powerful white chain of

This

giants has appeared.

is

snowy

already Nepal and the long-awaited

Himalayas, on the other side of the Brahmaputra.

Saga-dzong

is

corpses of animals

The mendangs The camp

is

They

eat the

and they mix tiny pebbles with the

barley.

also a small impoverished village.

are defiled by fallen dogs

full

and

We

of excitement.

its

Manasaravar, Lake of the Great Nagi.

There

pilgrims go, realizing on

Already

files

what

is

of refuse.

are approaching

Brahmaputra, the very one which has

Rig-vedas originated; there one

all sorts

the

source in the sacred is

where the wise

near the sacred Kailas; there,

a noble

highway

lie

of pilgrims are encountered; they are

these

sites.

gloomy and

ragged, and carry spears.

Amidst rocks and sand, In

May

the water

is

the banks shows to

lilac

and purple,

lies

not yet completely risen.

what extent the [377

]

the Brahmaputra.

The water

river rises in

line

on

June with the

ALTAI-HIM ALA Y A snow thaw and

There

still

greater reverence for the

for the Blue River.

The Blue Yangtse-Kyang

rains.

Brahmaputra than

is

the longest river in the world but the Brahmaputra, son of

is

Brahma,

is

enveloped by a rich frame-work of legends.

the sacred bed of the

Ganges with the Himalayas;

var

and the source of the Great Indus.

close to Sutlej

is

also

links

for Manasara-

There

was born Aryavarta.

A and

It

Mongolian lama scientific

garment.

a

But he always walked

Geshe.

Once

“There lived

says:

the Geshe

went

remarkably versed in the

most modest former

to visit his teacher, the

The vain courtiers of the abbot saw the humble visitor and sent him away. And again came the Geshe and again he was evicted. Then the Geshe went to a merchant in a bazaar and asked him to lend him a rich garment abbot of a big Labrang.

and the Geshe put into like

nuggets of Chinese

his girdle several stones

all

from out the

together in a corner.

garment; and only

after did

is

true,”

bow

I

and the

to his teacher. If so,

why do you

my

teacher, “but

garment ?”

could not reach you, and therefore

which brought me

Near the Brahmaputra the rocks of Chatu-gompa.

to

are

once

and put them

to the stones

not your teacher? the

at

entered, took off his

answered the Geshe that you are

without these things to that

he

way he was

girdle the stones,

Then he bowed

The other asked, “Am I bow first to the stones and “It

in this

The Geshe

permitted to see his teacher. rich garment, took

And

silver.

which looked

my

bow

reverenced master.”

five

Two

I

monasteries leaning against

of

them

and three of Bon-po of the Black Faith.

are of the

The

Red

Sect,

monasteries of the

Black Faith look far newer and cleaner than those of the Red Sect.

Out

of the

windows

of a big

Dukang

or

Red Monastery,

straw sticks out; several lamas of hopelessly dilapidated appear-

[378

]

BRAHMAPUTRA

THE

ON

GOMPA

CHATU

TIBET ance sadly

The Black

about.

stroll

we sympathize with Buddhism,

on learning that

Believers,

ask us not even to approach

their monasteries.

With astonishment we look

We

of Tibet in circulation.

dzongs nor

government

saw neither

is

how

poor, yet

is

only copper coin

nor gold in the

silver

Although the minting of the small

in popular use.

copper coins

at the sho, the

grandiose

is

the inscription:

victorious in all directions.”

astonishing that

It is

the half-r^o and the quarter-iAo are bigger than the sho

Now

There

horse on the prow.

current

is

It is

Although Tingri-dzong a

a small boat, a ferry, with a carved

is

especially difficult to load the camels.

pretty swift. •

has

itself.

comes our crossing through the Brahmaputra near the

monastery Schi-tu.

The

“The

pitiful

toylike

•

•

•

•

regarded as a strong fortress

is

it

which perhaps had importance

aspect,

previous to the invention of gunpowder.

There

is

no monastery

but only suburgans of the Red Sects with fearful images and

Red

stripes as signs of their allegiance to the

the

same

see

upon them?

fearful images

We

recall

What can one not human skins, fearful

on Tantrik tankas.

Magic swords,

images with projecting

Sect.

teeth,

flayed

and inverted

triangles.

The

entire

synthesis of Black Magic.

Near Tingri-dzong Mount Everest looms up mering beauty.

We

meet people

who knew Sven

Hedin.

regret that he could not speak Tibetan.

about Filchner.

Some

that he left three boys

in all

its

glim-

They praise him and They have heard here

legends are already invented to the effect

on the Blue River, [

379

]

as well as a

mouse, a

— ALTAI-HIMALAYA How

weasel and prairie dog.

had we not known the language our been immensely

difficult.

of the language

is

of the

was

latter

way he conducted

Here

is

work would have

entire

fortunate that George’s knowledge

called “the officer of peace,” because

his negotiations.

the old monastery Chung-tu,

royal monastery Saskya.

Here

ancient walls.

its

Evidently

which belongs

much

has transpired within

And

here are crumbled

Chinese walls, memories of conquered Tibet. of ancient Suburgans

Here

ful age.

and new by-ways and

Another ancient place: Shekar-dzong. eagles, they

rocks

mount

to

ages and temples. valley.

below.

The

The

When

a long

structures.

the Tibetans

stronghold-sanctuaries

is

But

a

upon

the

sharp

wealth of decoration on towers, pass-

now

Tibetans have descended to the

chieftains are afraid to live in the castles

Only from

is

were not afraid of soaring up to the steep

their

There

promontories.

Here

—remembrances of the time of a peace-

are amassed old

were bold

to the

an umbrella above a large suburgan

is

the sign of former royal distinction.

file

course,

considered by the Tibetans second only to Sir

The

Charles Bell.

It is

Of

does this originate?

afar are the old

and huddle

dzongs of Tibet

attractive.

prices for products are high to the point of absurdity.

A

sack of twenty-nine pounds of poor grain, of which five pounds are stones, costs eleven norsangs

dzongs.

A

A little piece

horse, for

two

which

of barley sugar

is

is

about nine rupees in the

about four or five rupees.

days’ travel, eight rupees ;

and a pack-yak, four

rupees.

Our marches short, not

they

are not of even length.

Either they are very

exceeding four hours on horseback.

last for

nine hours almost

Kampa-dzong, the

last

at a trot.

dzong before [380]

We

Or, suddenly, hasten toward

the border of Sikhim.

But

,

uschm

]\T

Rocnch

A SKY

A S NEAR

MONASTERY

ROYAL

Rocvich

icholos

CHUNGTU

N by

painting

a From

TIBET where

is

For

the castle?

long time

a

bulky mass on the distant rock is

placed so high that

chief of the castle,

is

it

we

as a castle.

to recognize the

fail

Really this structure

Dzong

merges into the rock.

a trifle

more

friendly than the others.

Far higher than the dzong on the opposite rocks tery, in

which now only eight lamas remain.

monastery

is

Mahatmas.”

pen, the

monas-

a

is

But in

this very

the courtyard mentioned in the “Letters of the

There was the school mentioned by the Mahatmas,

now this school does not exist. But the old people still remember that here was a “religious school.” And they remember but

the “tall Azaras”

The

We The

last

crossing

India.

— Sepo-la.

pass the turquoise lake, torrents begin as

travel, seethe

the

from

first

This pass

where the

is

river

easier

than the others.

Lachen has

modest streams which,

and become impassable without

after

two days Here

a bridge.

aroma of the healing Balu, and the

first

source.

its

low

of is

cedars.

Before us are whole forests of rhododendrons in bloom.

Khardong La, Karaul Devan, Sasser Pass, Dabsang Pass, Karakorum Pass, Suget Pass, Sanju Pass, Urtu Kashkariin Daban, Ulan Daban, Chahariin Daban, Khentu Pass, Naiji La, Kukushili Pass, Dungbudra Pass, Tang La, Kamrong La, TaZoji La,

sang La, Lamsi Pass, Naptra La, Tamaker Pass, Shentsa Pass,

Lam

Pong chen La, Dong La, Sang mo La, Kyegong La, Tsug chung La, Gya La, Urang La, Sharu La, Galung La, Sepo La; these are the thirtyLaptse nagri Pass, Tsag La,

five passes,

Of

all

ling Pass,

each from 14,000 to 21,000 feet high, which are crossed.

our camels, two crossed the Himalayas.

One

is

Bulugun (northern Mongolia), the other from Tsaidam. will be the first to reach

present

them

to the

Gangtok, the

capital of

Maharajah of Sikhim.

[381]

Sikhim.

Along

from

They

We will

the entire

ALTAI-HIMALAYA way from Nagchu

to

Gangtok

the camels attract crowds of curi-

ous onlookers because these “animals” have never been seen here.

From Lhasa

known.

to Calcutta, camels are not

a house already awaited us: a

magazines of 1927.

In Thangu,

dak-bungalow and even forgotten

For more than

a year

we

existed entirely

without news of the outer world.

The

patterned streams. pass

all

whole symphony

For several days we descend.

species of the vegetable world.

and near the

warm

A

fairy tale of the waterfalls!

black spots.

All already

two

river pass

is

They

Finally,

in the

is

Nearby we palms appear

leopards, vividly yellow with thick

appear, greet us cordially and go away.

seen: the black-and-white bears of Chang-thang,

antelopes and argali, the stonelike rams with curved horns ; finally the well-decked leopards. •

A

modest Finnish mission

is

among

self-exiled in solitude

avalanches which threaten

•

•

•

all

•

Kind Miss Kronquist,

in La-chen.

the rocks, relates tales about the

Sikhim.

Is it

possible that

on the

southern side of the Himalayas continues the same deadening process

which has crumbled the peaks

Chang-thang?

In-

Lachen which sprang up

spired by the noise of the current of

and became stronger under our very

of

eyes,

we

recall

Imatra and

Finland and the sympathetic Relander and Aksel Gallen-Kallela.

Here

are the

We

same blue

make our

distances as in Finland.

final calculations

American equipment withstood crossed all

from America

regarding the caravan.

all

for four years

trials.

The

The remaining

Belber trunks

through entire Asia, through

The

tents

from

Gangtok was

easy.

The

fordings and passes without any damage.

Abercrombie and Fitch

The

also withstood all gales.

part of the

way

to

hospitable house of the British Resident, Colonel Bailey, greets us.

[382]

TIBET

We

tell

about our

trip.

The

America

letters to

We

are given a trustworthy sardar to Darjeeling.

the entire

way from Gangtok

make

shall

But we will have

one day.

in

We

are sent off.

to

change automobiles three times, because on the Tista the bridge

was recently washed away and

means three automobiles and

—a steep ascent from Tista It is

through Peshok.

Our

where they

China, one to

to

all

the expedition material.

George, the Doctor, V., and P. K.

take a long time.

—one

fellow-travelers will quickly

Italy,

one

Every-

to Australia.

will recall the inexpressible beauty of the Himalayas.

Our way led from the Himalayas, and back is Karakorum and the icy kingdom of Sasser. Lun.

Fantastic

sweep

is

is

But

T’ian Shan

Decorative

Altai.

Dakchin.

It

ten miles on horseback in one day

are also preparing their notes. scatter

necessary to change.

is

necessary to collect and compile

may

This

it

all

—

is

celestial

Nan

to

them.

Beautiful

is

Kwen

Broad

mountains.

shang.

Majestic

Austere

is

in

Angar

these are only the preface to the unutterable

grandeur of the Himalayas. In the Himalayas was crystallized the great Vedanta.

Himalayas Buddha became exalted the

Himalayas

is

with

penetrated

in spirit.

The

spiritual

tension

very

In the air

—the

of

true

Maitreya Sanga. •

Our

•

•

friend in Sikhim, the lama,

•

tells

•

us that during the winter

he had heard that large detachments of cavalry were standing before

Nagchu; such information caused

a great deal of anxiety.

This proved to be only one of the rumors current about ourselves.

During

these years

rumor made me

American King,” “Commander of

all

Buddhists.”

I

“French and

a

of a Russian Corps,”

succeeded in dying twice.

I

succeeded in

being simultaneously in Siberia, America and Tibet.

[383]

and “King According

ALTAI-HIMALAYA to the

words of Mongols of Tsaidam

Amban of

And

of Sining.

Khotan

I

carried

on

war with

a

the

according to the words of the Taotai

brought a small cannon which would, in ten min-

I

utes, destroy entire

came accustomed

Khotan and

The Mongols

by “authentic” rumors.

kind of warrior.

remember

firmly

American has been

the

We

be-

and now are no longer astonished

to all this

“Ameri Khan”: Thus

100,000 inhabitants.

its

the

visualized as

a

Fairy tales about ourselves from Lhasa were

which we could only

related to us, in

identify ourselves with

difficulty.

It is

wondrous and strange

where the Mahatmas

Them. Two Ashrams

far

through the same places

Here was the school founded by from Saga-dzong there was one of the

passed.

days’ travel

—not

to pass

from the Brahmaputra.

Here the Mahatma

stopped, hastening on an undeferrable mission.

Now when

the modest blue tent. existence of the silent

here stood

Europe argues about the

Mahatmas, when the Hindus are

Them, many

about

And

significantly

people in the expanses of Asia not

know the Mahatmas, not only have seen Them, but know many actual evidences of Their deeds and appearances. Always

only

Mahatmas unexpectedly

awaited, the

a great special existence. fested themselves.

When

And when

ably as ordinary travelers.

it

created in the spaces of Asia

was

necessary,

necessary,

They

They do not

They mani-

passed unnotice-

write Their

Names

upon the stones, but the hearts of those who know, guard These Names, stronger than the rocks. Why suspect a fairy tale, imagination, invention, when in living forms the knowledge of the

Mahatmas In haste,

is

impressed?

moved by

idle

curiosity,

even a simple chemical experiment.

you will not understand Will those,

who

in futile

conversation discuss the question of Mahatmas, achieve anything?

Will their empty curiosity be satisfied?

[384]

How many

people there

TIBET are

who would

But would

love to receive a

change

it

of astonishment

from the Mahatmas!

letter

their lives?

It

would provide

moment

a

and confusion and then again everything would

return to the old routine, leaving no trace.

Often we are astonished

why

people

who know

are so widely different in their social positions.

Boehme

a

Are the dimensions

shoemaker?

hatmas and literature

which

do not know

The

their

Ma-

of the

the pupils, are related in a

to

not nearly as limited as

average scientist talks about scientists

who

William Crooks or Vivekananda,

so.

of consciousness

it

seems to those

who

it.

These are the Sir

is

instructions

why was

But

The works

measured only by outward distinctions?

Mahatmas

the

Sir

who was

Mahatmas

as

pure

illusion.

have never seen Mahatmas. Oliver

But

Lodge would not speak

always upholding the rationalism

knew Mahatmas. Many Hindus know Them. safeguard Their Names to such an extent that they

of observation,

But they

are even ready to

deny Their existence

in order not to betray,

not to reveal.

Not to betray! What a charm Guru in the steps of ascent. But

many

are

knocking

they do not acknowledge

them about

it.

at the it,

How many

is

in this

understanding of the

doors of the great science.

even are angered

if

own way.

And how

many

find disillusionment because they

wrong

in his

sin-

try to find

Everybody knocks

them

want

They

Guru!

a real teacher.

of

some one asks

of the younger generation

cerely to start correspondence with a

Often

knock

at the

door, or they lacked sufficient energy and necessary deter-

mination to receive a true answer.

“What nical

tory

laboratory could analyze those

methods of knowledge?”

who

Yes, verily,

where labor and perseverance and [385

]

it

approach the tech-

must be

a labora-

fearlessness are the keys

ALTAI-HIMALAYA In a sound rationalism, in a true and fearless ma-

to the gates.

grow

terialism

We

the wings of

are not to be isolated

—such

transform

them

gested by

They speak

life is

life,

of those victories of labor

for long

Mahatmas

recollections is

Lama

real,

and

per-

which

possibilities,

are

are not sectarians or hypo-

do they go into the mountains

know something

of Tibet they

tion

Everything sug-

without superstition, without prejudice.

themselves by the emanations of prana.

some

which

the contrary they are most vital people; they conquer

Not

life.

the

one toward the

direct

into a constant festival.

true followers of the

On

They

They speak about

not ephemeral and illusory, but

suggested to us by

in

—not destructive, but creative

most all-embracing study of

tains to the

crites.

life

foundations of existence.

conquest of energy.

The

from

the teaching of the Mahatmas.

is

scientific

shall

the wings of consciousness.

spirit,

to purify

In the darkest places

about the Mahatmas, they have

and legends.

But for the

moment

their atten-

directed to the prophecies about the return of the Tashi in his full glory.

Despite

the straight road

all,

the Himalayas

Tsaidam

in a

—

crossed:

is

new

first

—Mongolia, on the

direction, then

Tsaidam, Tibet and

trail

of Ja lama; then in

through the dzongs of Tibet

to

the mountain passes of the “abodes of snows.”

There Tibet.

something of predestination

is

The wheel

Tibet has none to ness of

its

the dying of old

The mystery is gone. guard; and none guards Tibet. The exclusiveof the law

is

turned.

position as guardian of

to Tibet.

in

Buddhism no longer belongs

Because Buddhism, according to the

the Blessed One, becomes a universal possession.

need of superstition for the deep teaching.

Commands

of

There

no

is

Prejudices are inimical

to the search for truth.

The

first

image of the Blessed One was received by Tibet

from Nepal and China

—received [386]

only in the seventh century,

TIBET more than one thousand taught;

received

years after the Blessed

literature of the followers

The

lected.

of

India

in

Buddhism had been

image was received only

first

Viharas, before which the brothers,

when

time

the

after

were rising

Dukang

in all

One

after

lived

the

and

brilliant

already colthe beautiful

of Tibet stand as poor younger

Now, when

parts of Asia.

there

begins to be concern about the revival of true Buddhism, this

wave

passes

by Tibet.

Let us consider the Black Magic of Tibet. revived

Rolang-resurrection

celebrated

the

corpses,

nothing but a crude form of vampirism. dering

spirits

who

kill

and do

often the spirits of lamas.

manner

all

Let us

evil

temporarily

fall into

recall the

—which

of evil;

and they are

recall all sorts of obsessions,

actual insanity.

Let us recall

changed and evil

conjura-

and invocations with which the lamas arm themselves

frighten the ignorant people.

is

Let us recall the wan-

influences, people are completely

how, under

tions

Let us

Let us

recall the suicidal

to

magic

daggers, dark fortune-telling, spells, were-wolves, entities which

have assumed the appearance of animals; and tions of an evil will.

First of

all,

do not give very good evidence

all

kinds of inven-

such dark practices of lamas Second,

of their uprightness.

the sorcerers of the Coast of Malabar perform the entire black

necromancy much more powerfully.

They

are

known,

feared,

but no one worships them and they are not regarded as sacred personages.

Many

Malabar “miracles” antedate Tibetan magic.

authors

who

have written about Tibet have called

the miracle of miracles.

Tibet or

is

due

to the

But

Mahatmas

such a school has not existed. possess

the

power

to

could refer only to old

misconception of those writers,

been hypnotized by tradition. school founded by

this title

who

Truly, one could rightly a miracle.

Now

it

have

call

a

But for many years

individual Tibetan lamas

produce low forms of materialization,

[387]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA and clairaudience.

levitation, manifestations of will, clairvoyance It is

the greatest test of the lamas

when

if

they doubt about you,

you demand of them, “Ask your oracle what

what

present and

intention

Then

have.”

I

at

I

am

thinking

at

once they become

confused.

mountains some astonishing manifestations actually

In the

occur, but they have nothing to

do with the lamas.

which was

the incident of the remarkable fire in our tent,

peated in Chang-thang.

We

cruel frosts. ergies.

where It

Truly

it

recall

We

many

remarkable

is

until recently there

would be absurd

The lamas

again

to

Much

of heat amidst the

just to pass

through those places

were Ashrams.

may become

of that

wave

re-

manifestations of the higher en-

condemn

And

government may appear. erate.

recall the

We recollect

the entire population of Tibet.

Again an enlightened

educated.

people again

which appears

may become

regen-

to us as fallen “has not as yet

risen.”

In the teaching of the Blessed tions about the

whole routine of

life.

now

who

and apply them. teaching,

One

But

must understand

demned and cannot

those

there are practical indicaIt is

very easy to

know

have desecrated the high

that their criminal actions are con-

continue. •

•

•

•

•

Tibet bids us farewell with sad news.

Our

three Torguts,

Ochir, Dorje and Manji, forty miles from Gyantse, were attacked

by Tibetans.

Two

They were robbed

Torguts were killed and the third wounded. of their

a well-born Tibetan says,

money and

possessions.

Hearing

“Formerly the bandits were

north of Tibet, but they infest the entire country now.”

speak the good Tibetans with hopeless gestures.

in

this,

the

Thus

And how many

decent Tibetans and learned lamas must suffer because of the present conditions.

There was another

story that our

[388]

Mongols reached Lhasa, but

— TIBET there they were seized

and thrown into the Tibetan

how, our poor Torguts experienced

Any-

jail.

trouble.

Another rumor: Poor Tzering, our Mongol, has suffered

On

greatly.

now

is

dream chok

way from Nagchu

the

begging

of leaving Tibet.

back from Nagchu

Our Buryat lamas already Lama, Lama Tashi and Kon-

Lhasa bazaar.

in the

Jangin,

home

safely reached

in Sharagolchi, because they returned

at once.

The Tibetans who have come the year of the dragon. The past and

Sikhim

to

Will

return to Tibet before three years.”

of remaining in

With him

Tashi

to the prophecy, the

are overtaken by our

“Now

say:

comes

year was the year of the tiger

after that will be the year of the sheep.

— then?” “According

We

Lhasa he was robbed and

to

— Much

it

not be easier

Lama

will not

being rumored.

is

lama from Kharching.

He

thought

Lhasa ten years but stayed only three months.

three other learned lamas

from Tashi lhunpo

are

traveling.

News from Sikhim. The monastery in Ghum is growing. Some new structures are being added. The walls are covered with frescoes. The monasteries in Kalimpong and Kurseong are also improving.

Geshe Rinpoche

Ghum

erects

images of Maitreya.

artist,

Geshe Lhariba, from Kham,

In

is

He

helping everywhere.

is

is

the

Our

same abbot.

working

as before.

All

is

friendly and good.

I

experiences?”

Truly

condemn

v/hat

that the Tashi

Lama

shall

he is

“How

have been asked,

who heard.

is

is

I

shall

shall

you speak of Tibet

praise

what

is

obscured in darkness.

full I

after

of light

your

and

shall not forget

has aroused general reverence for himself

whom

only good

Everywhere the Tibetans themselves say of

their coun-

the spiritual ruler of Tibet and of

[389]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA try,

“The customs

And

different.”

prophecy about

of

Panchen Rinpoche (Tashi Lama) were

far

they await with eagerness the fulfilment of the

when he

his return

will be the sole

head of the

Tibet and the true Teaching will again flourish.

Truly, one has

Lama were now

in Tibet again,

the feeling that

things

would be

Thus we

dom —of

the Tashi

if

different!

two Tibets: One

distinguish

those

whom

of

officials

who

and falsehood,

who

the Tibet of

official-

the Tibetans themselves assert

and harder than

that their hearts are blacker than coal

These are the ones

is

much

reflect so

and

desecrate art

stone.

prejudice and violence

petrify learning

with de-

generacy.

But we in

also discern another Tibet, even

numbers.

This

the Tibet of the

of an even smaller

is

number

though

it

is

smaller

few educated lamas and

of enlightened laymen.

This

is

the

Tibet which guards the essence of the Teaching and aspires

towards enlightenment. It is

is

the Tibet of

of course not enigmatic

which Tibet

sciousness

It

is

spiritual leaders.

closer to our con-

—the enlightened ones we value, and may the obscured

and corrupt ones disappear In

its

in their

own

darkness!

from America, friends have expressed

letters

their regret

that the actions of Tibet have urged the necessity of such strong criticisms.

But Truth

be far-sighted.

is

not blindness; on the contrary

it

Moreover, a small and valuable minority

yet produce greater results than the dying,

The Himalayas and Sikhim

must

may

decomposed majority.

enclose Tibet.

Nowhere

is

there

such glimmer, such spiritual satiety as amidst these precious snows.

Nowhere

speech of Sikhim

Man-heroes;

is

there such qualifying expressions as in the

—to

everything

women-heroes

fall-heroes; eagle-heroes.

;

is

added the word “heroism.”

rock-heroes;

Here

to

trees-heroes ;

water-

Sikhim came great hermits

because where could one, in two days’ travel, ascend from tropical

[390

]

SHIGATSE)

(NEAR

DZONG

SHEKAR

TIBET up

to eternal"

here revealed.

Friendly

vegetation

Friendly

of Sikhim.

And

again

of mystery

by

alive

the

Maharajah

is

Laden La.

This

considered a remarkable place

is

And

the fine old abbot of Tashi-

but has aged and does not descend from his

And

Again the Hindu

know

is

Friendly

the Resident.

is

treasures.

sacred mountain.

self, if I

Friendly

traverse the sacred valley of Tashi ding, as a trove

and

still

is

All grades of consciousness are

Sikhim.

is

Sikhim and Bhutan.

all

ding

we

snow.

again the proximity of great India.

“How may

sings:

I

speak of the creator him-

the incomparable, inexpressible beauty of

Hima-

layas ?”

It

is

itself:

told in the prophecies

shall flow.

They

And

new

the

era shall manifest

an unprecedented war of

“First will begin

Afterward brother

how

Oceans of blood

shall rise against brother.

the people shall cease to understand one another.

meaning of

shall forget the

the word, Teacher.

then shall the Teachers appear and in

the people be drawn, but those

are filled

and ignorance

As

diamond glows

heard the true teaching.

shall set obstacles.

a

this

on the tower of the Lord of Shambhala. is

worth more than

word

One

just

of truth shall

with darkness

stone

the light

on

his ring

Even those who

the world’s treasure.

all

But

corners of the world

all

To who

shall be

nations.

all

by accident help the Teachings of Shambhala will receive in return a hundredfold.

Already

Only

of truth are reincarnated.

many

warriors of the teaching

few years

a

shall elapse before

every one shall hear the mighty steps of the Lord of the

And

New

era.

one can already perceive unusual manifestations and en-

counter unusual people.

edge and ripened

Already they open the gates of knowl-

fruits

Lama Rinpoche knows junga, there

lies

a cave.

are falling

that

from the

on the north

Very narrow [39i

]

is

trees.”

side of

Kinchen-

the entrance to

it,

ALTAI-HIMALAYA but

it

broadens and brings one into a whole

knows many

priest

things,

The

the appointed time.

He

possesses

he

talks of the

some

“How were

I.

When we

emerging from

were freezing

How

for her!

is

it

a trance

at

Chang-thang

she

is

So we

suffering!”

Using the old custom of the high lamas, Geshe

down

lie

profound.

is

he unexpectedly said to those near him:

ill,

later told.

does not

if

until

most unexpected actions and persons who are

was

difficult

As

them

to speak of

consciousness of Geshe

clairvoyance.

at a great distance.

and E.

and asks not

The high

city.

Geshe

to sleep but rests in a seated posture.

knows about Shambhala and

its

He

complete significance.

takes

care to revive the teachings.

One more image

of Shambhala, the

who know some

will reveal to those

top

is

Yi-dam

that Tashi

Lama who

center

is

a

is

The

The new his

own

snow mountains

is

distortedly; but It is especially

all

in the pre-

on the great

is

awaited.

field of life.

Each reaches in

nearer, one further; one beautifully, one

are concerned with the

same predestined.

striking to see such consciousness at a time

not the printed page, but sound the loft expectation.

The Motherland

dis-

the powerful legion leading victorious

era of enlightenment

One

One can

edifices.

Whose Light glows

victory of the spirit

way.

In the

though they were the plans of towers.

Himself,

Below

destined time. battle.

He

the

wrote the very secret book the Path of

can recognize three white borders.

plans, as

the tower

On

elemental power, and a figure of

seeming valley with many

two

tinguish

On

You

a circle.

Shambhala

of

hints of reality.

In the center of the image the

Shambhala.

form

as the sign of

Mandala

It

is

of Gessar

itself

—the human word—directs

so precious to hear

Khan, Ladak, knows

of the regeneration has come. [

when

and

to repeat.

that the time

Khotan remembers the Signs of 392

]

TIBET The Kalmucks

Maitreya over the ancient Stupa.

in

Karashar are

awaiting the coming manifestation of the Chalice of Buddha.

On

Shamanism and are singing new Awaited White Burkhan. The Messenger of the

Altai the Oyrots renounce

chants to the

White Burkhan,

already

Oirot,

throughout the world.

rides

The Mongols await the appearance of the Ruler of the World and prepare the Dukang of Shambhala. On Chang-thang they extol Gessar

Khan and whisper

Shambhala.

On

the

Brahmaputra they know about the Ashrams

Mahatmas and remember

of

await the Messiah

about the hallowed borders of

the wonderful Azaras.

The Moslems

at the Bridge.

In Isfahan the White Horse

is

The Jews

await Muntazar.

The

already saddled.

Christians

Thomas await the great Advent and wear hidden signs. The Hindus know the Kalki Avatar. And the Chinese at New of Saint

Year

light the fires before the

the World.

image of Gessar Khan,

Rigden Japo, the Ruler,

A

achieving his predestined path.

no exaggeration

there

Is

ruler of

fleeting over the desert,

is

blind one

may

ask, “Is

it

so?

Perhaps some fragments of sur-

in it?

vivals are taken as beliefs of the future.” It

If

means

that he

who

questions has never been in the East.

you once were upon these

sands of miles;

you

know

why, of

if

sites; if

you traversed many thou-

you yourself have spoken

what

the reality of

is

related.

these sacred matters, one speaks only in the stillness of

the evening, in quiet penetrating tones.

do

all

many people, then You shall understand to

become

silent?

But

if

you say

Why, to

if

some one

them

enters,

that they

may

continue the conversation in the presence of the guest your words will be

met with

a reverent

the silent significant

bow

bow.

And

it is

not you

who

receives

but the Great Maitreya Himself.

[393

1

GLOSSARY Part

I

Lan\a The ancient name of Ceylon; described in the Hindu Epic of Ramayana as of great magnificence, the habitation of the demons. The Ramayana is the Epic poem of Rama and his war against the Rakshasas or demons and giants, when the monkeys, led by Hanuman, :

were

his allies.

Hinayana and Mahayana, the two Buddhist

The former

“Smaller Vehicle” and “Greater Vehicle.” the Southern Buddhists, the latter

is

Hanuman, Rama and Ravana:

who

Ravana, king of the demons

The

Iliad

may

of actions

two

epic,

in

his

war upon

has carried away Sita, Rama’s wife

A

great analogy between this

be seen.

Hindus.

revelations or scriptures of the

are divided into

Hanuman,

Characters of the Ramayana.

and thus precipitated the great war. Vedas:

the School of

the Northern School, but spread in

king of Monkeys, aids Rama, hero of the

and the

is

the

China and Japan.

Tibet, Mongolia,

epic

respectively

schools,

great parts

—the

exoteric,

The Vedic

writings

namely, the “division

and works” and “divisions of knowledge.”

In the latter

are included the Upanishads.

Mahabharata: The Great Epic of India, in which the Bhagarad Gita

is

incorporated.

Sahib: Master, in Hindustani.

Babu:

A

literate

man,

in Hindustani.

Hatha-Yoga: The lower form

means Stoc\zund: Stupas:

A A

Yoga

practices.

A man who

uses physical

for spiritual self-development.

A

small suburb near Stockholm.

monument,

conical in shape erected over the relics of

of Arhats, or other great

Kurgan:

of

men.

Turki word designating a burial mound

Tnmurti: The Trinity. preserver,

and Shiva,

In

Buddha,

in Russia.

modern conception Brahma,

destroyer.

creator;

In ancient tradition, Indra,

[395

]

Vishnu,

Agni and

ALTAI-HIMALAYA A

Surya, or Air, Fire and the Sun.

vast philosophy underlies this

symbolism.

A

Vedanta:

mystic system of philosophy developing from the efforts of

philosophers to interpret the Upanishads.

A

Advaita:

Vedanta non-dualist

sect.

Dalai-Lama: The secular ruler of Tibet, living

One

Sweeper:

in the Potala at Lhasa.

belonging to the Sudras, the untouchables, or lowest of the

four castes.

A

Sherpa:

Tibetan tribe of Nepal.

The

Kshatriya:

second of the four castes into which the Hindus were

originally divided.

Arya Samaj:

Kham and

A

modern

the warrior tribe.

is

theistic sect of India.

Golo\: Districts in Tibet.

The Buddha

Maitreya:

This

of the future,

who

incarnates in himself

all

the

hopes of the Buddhist world, from the island of Ceylon to the lamaseries of Siberia.

Lama:

Priest of the monasteries.

Shambhala: The country believed by Asia

coming King of the World and Atisha: Founder of a school of

to

be the dwelling of the

his cohorts.

Buddhism

in the eleventh century.

True

predecessor of Tsong-kha-pa, founder of the Yellow Sect, Tibet.

Milarepa: Tibetan poet-mystic (1038-1112 a.d.).

The Tibetan Orpheus.

Gopis: Shepherdesses, the devotees of Krishna.

Lei and Koupava: Mythical characters from the opera “Snowmaiden” by Rimsky-Korsakoff.

Characters from ancient Russian lore.

Shamans: Tartar or Mongolian priest-magicians of the old Bon

They

of Central Asia.

are found mostly in Siberia

religion

and the border-

lands.

Sadhu:

A

saintly

Mem-sahib:

man.

Madam

or mistress in Hindustani.

Lemuria: The continent which according

to the esoteric doctrines preceded

Atlantis.

Kaftans:

An

oriental coatlike garment.

Tao Te Ching: Indicating

“Book of

the Path; the

the Perfectibility of

Nature,” written by the great Chinese philosopher Lao-Tze.

Tao

is

the symbol of the Absolute, the Infinite.

Bhagavad

Gita:

The

Lord’s Song.

The Epic

of Krishna, one part of the

Mahabharata which contains the two great Epics of India. '

[396]

GLOSSARY Upanishads: Part of the Esoteric division of the Vedas. Nagis: Snakes, or snake-worshipers.

who made

Tashi-Lama: Religious head of Tibet

For the

lhunpo Monastery in Shigatse.

Tara:

in the Tashi-

time in history he has

Tibet thus fulfilling ancient prophecies.

fled

Potala:

home

his

first

The The

Palace of the Dalai principal

The

Goddess-Mother.

Lama

in Lhasa.

deity

of

feminine

Buddhism.

Symbolizing

the

Merciful One, protector of mankind.

Puranas: Collection of cosmogonic writings supposed to have been com-

posed by Vyasa, author of the Mahabharata.

Vishnu: The Preserver, second personage of the Hindu Trimurti.

Chintamani: The Sacred Stone counted among the great Blessings of the world.

A

Arhat:

member

The hidden wisdom

Kabala:

was combined

It

who

of the Buddhist order

He

of the path toward Nirvana.

of the

is

attained the fourth stage

no more subject

Hebrew Rabbis

into a theology after the

to rebirth.

of the Middle Ages.

capture of the Jews by

Babylon.

The shawl worn by

Sari:

all

Hindu women.

Part Senge: Literally, Lion, a

title

II

Buddha.

of

Here, apparently, the

name

given to the ceremonial dances.

A

Polovtsi:

Tartar Tribe depicted in Borodin’s opera, “Prince Igor,” for

which Roerich has painted the Jenghis-Khan:

settings.

Mongol conqueror (1162-1227).

Great

Considered

the

greatest warrior of history.

Khalat:

The

Khati\:

A A

Rungit: l\on:

Wheel

garment worn by the Mongols. scarf,

given as a reverential offering.

river in Sikhim, a tributary of Tista.

The

religious paintings of Russia.

of Life:

spirit

Wheel

coatlike

ceremonial

A

symbol of the great cycle of

life,

the progress of the

or self through the lower nature.

of Eze\iel: Mystic symbol used by the Prophet Ezekiel.

Chandragupta Maurya: The of Asoka.

Began

Buddhist King of India.

first

his reign

about 322

Grandfather

b.c.

Sergius of Radonega: Most beloved saint of Russia, lived in fifteen century. [

397

]

:

:

:

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Bogdo-Khan: Religious head of the Mongolian Buddhists,

called “Living

Buddha.”

One

Khutu\htu

Om: A

of the highest ranks of

Lamas

in Mongolia.

holy invocation regarded as the most sacred

syllable.

Kinchenjunga: Sacred mountain in Sikhim.

who

Baber Descendant of Timur (Died in 1530

Dynasty.

T'antra:

invaded India and established the Mogul

a.d.)

practices in medieval

Books on mystical

Padma Sambhava Founder

Red

of the

Sect,

Hinduism.

one of the two great Tibetan

Sects.

Tsong-\ha-pa:

Founder

of the Yellow Sect, the second great sect.

Berendeys in “Snowmaiden”: Characters in Rimsky-Korsakoff’s opera.

Red Caps: Members of the sect founded by Padma Sambhava. Csoma de Koros: A Hungarian traveler and scholar, born 1790. Sengchen Lama: Incarnate Lama, high

priest of

Dong-ste monastery near

Gyantse.

Mendang: An

elevation of stone

on the

hilltops, usually facing east, afford-

ing a seat for meditating lamas.

Amrita: The drink of the gods

Rahu:

A demon who

Avalo\iteshvara: savior

and

The

—Elixir of Life.

amrita from the gods.

stole

greatest Bodhisattva of

deliverer.

Northern Buddhism.

The

Generally depicted many-armed and many-faced.

Pemayangtse, Dubdi, Tashi-ding, Sanga Choling, Doling: Monasteries in Sikhim.

Dharmapala: Protector of

King

of the

religion.

World: The Coming Ruler whose great avatar

is

now

expected

by Asia.

Garuda: The

bird, steed of

Vishnu.

Part

“Throne of Solomon”: Mountain

in

III

Kashmir.

Bon-po: Pre-Buddhist faith of Tibet, based on magic fehangir:

Mogul Emperor, son

rites.

of Akbar, the Great (1555-1605).

A\bar: The great Mogul Emperor of India, patron of sciences. [

398

]

religions, arts

and

:

GLOSSARY The

Asvagosha:

greatest Buddhist poet; probably flourished in the first cen-

tury A.D.

Aso\a: King of the Morya Dynasty.

Most zealous

in spreading

Buddhism.

Erected thousands of shrines and sent missionaries throughout the Eastern world. “ Sucre du Printemps”

Sacred Rites of Spring, by Igor Stravinsky and

Considered one of the greatest of modern composi-

Nicholas Roerich.

composed by collaborated

tions,

gave the

efforts of Stravinsky

based on an ancient spring

libretto

Shuya and Kolomna: Ancient Russian Kremlin: Central

and Roerich who

rite.

cities.

fortified section of ancient

Russian

cities,

comprising the

churches, palaces, monasteries and other buildings. Rostoff, Suzdal, Yaroslavl: Russian cities.

ban-designs: Designs of Persian origin.

Gandhara: The Greek period in Hindu

art.

Also the ancient province

near Peshawar.

Shah ]ehan: Son of Shah Jehangir.

Aurungzeb: Mogul Emperor, son of Jehan, reigned

at the

end of the seven-

teenth century.

Mahadeva: Great God,

title

Horus: Egyptian God,

last of

son of

Isis

The

Urceus:

and

of Shiva.

the divine sovereigns of Egypt, said to be

Osiris.

snake, sacred symbol.

cap of Osiris and other

Around

the disk of Osiris and

deities.

Se\meth: The war goddess of Egypt. Senusert:

One

of the Egyptian Pharaohs.

Djins: Elementals.

Nature

Valhalla: Odin’s hall.

The

spirits.

final

abode of fallen Norse heroes.

Fibula: Breast plate. ]alnil{:

Old Russian graveyard.

Hoopoe: Bird (Upupa epops). Burlaps: Russian boatsman.

Hookah:

A

pipe with a long flexible tube.

Setara: Stringed instrument.

Saazes: Kashmiri stringed instruments.

Turfan:

A

district in

Chinese Turkestan.

[399

]

on the

:

:

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Part IV Indra,

Agm,

Surya:

Kashyapa: Chief conversion

The

ancient Vedic Trimurti or Trinity.

priest of the Jatilas, sect of fire worshipers.

After his

Buddhist order.

his followers entered the

all

Rajagriha, Vaisali, Patna: Seats of Buddhist councils.

A

Alara Kalama

renowned sage who was

of

A

Brahmin Gautama Buddha.

UddaJ^a Ramaputta:

Uruvela:

A

site

ascetic

for a while

who was

near the forest in which

Buddha

for

Buddha’s teacher.

some

years the

Guru

spent six years of medi-

tation.

Ndiranjana: A

river in

which Buddha bathed

bodily suffering as a

means

to

after

renouncing the path of

knowledge.

The third of the Hindu castes. The ancient language of Magadha

Vaishas: Pali:

in

which the Buddhist

scriptures

are written.

Eusebius:

Known

as the Father of Ecclesiastical history.

Born probably

in

Palestine about 265.

Mithra:

An

ancient Persian deity, a sun-god.

Deeply connected with the

highest occultism, the tenets of which were expounded in the Mithraic mysteries.

Clement of Alexandria: Church father and voluminous writer living between the second and third centuries. Cyril of Alexandria:

century.

Nephew

of Theophilus of Alexandria during the fifth

Responsible for the murder of the girl philosopher, Hypatia.

Jerome: Church father, regarded as one of the most learned.

337 to 420 A.D. Origen: The most learned of

all

the

Church

fathers

and

all

Lived from

early Christian

Lived 185 to 254 a.d. Metropolite: Highest church official in the Greek Catholic Church. writers.

White Bur\han: The name given

the

to

Coming Buddha among

Altaian tribes of Siberia.

Fez: Turkish skull cap.

Tubetei\a Tartar skull cap.

Part

V

Schaitans: Devils. Afridi: Natives of the district around Peshawar.

[400]

the

GLOSSARY Baltis: Natives of Baltistan

Dras:

A

north of Kashmir.

district

on the road from Kashmir

site

The

Dards:

—a

to

Ladak.

people inhabiting the valleys adjacent to

Gilgit

— Moham-

medans.

Amban: Manchu

title

for a magistrate.

Tsaidam: District in the north of Tibet.

Lada\is: Natives of Ladak, Little Tibet. Astoris: Natives of the Astor district of

Kashmir.

Yar\andis: Natives of Yarkand. Stelles: Prehistoric stone slab.

Chinese pilgrim of the

Fa-hsieti:

A

Gessar-Khan: Tibetan

century a.d.

Coming One. Hero

of the great

of a great

Mongolo-

epic.

Maulbec\:

A A

Manjusri:

One

Lamayura:

name

fifth

monastery

site

near Leh.

monastery

site

near Leh.

of the principal Bodhisatvas, Prince of

Knowledge.

Kuan Yin: Chinese Goddess of Mercy. Lhamo: Tibetan deity of destruction. Maha\ala: Deity of Thunder.

Bruguma: Wife

Hindu

Sanyasin: E.

I.:

of Gessar-Khan. ascetic

A

Assur:

A

Ordoss:

tablets

desert.

A

constellation.

The mountainous The

region of Siberia

—a

range of mountains continu-

highest peak of Russian Altai.

Ghum: Monastery Nagchu:

A

district

near Darjeeling.

north of Lhasa.

Druid: Pre-Christian Gelong:

earliest

southernmost part of Mongolia.

ing into Mongolia.

Beluha:

from which

constellation especially characterized by the three central stars.

Great Bear: Altai:

of Professor Roerich.

tribe living in Transbakalia.

The Mongolian

A

—wife

Francke, renowned traveler.

were excavated.

district in the

Mongol

Buriat:

Herman

in Assyria, ancient seat of a library

city

known

Orion:

has reached the highest mystic knowledge.

Helena Ivanovna Roerich

Dr. Franc\e: Dr.

Gobi:

who

A

faith of the Celtic tribes.

full-consecrated lama.

[401

]

ALTAI-HIMALAYA Berendeyev\a: Land of Berendey; reference of Berendey

A

Shayo\:

is

made

here to the village

—out of the opera, “Snowmaiden.”

tributary of the Indus.

Boyars: Old Russian nobleman

—

state counselors.

Part VI Zorawar: Leader of a Dogra force which invaded western Tibet from Kashmir and plundered the monasteries.

Apocrypha: Writings having pretension

to

the character of the

scripture or received by certain sects but excluded

sacred

from the canon.

Evangel of the Ebionites: Sect of early church of second to fourth cenMessianic character of Christ but not his divinity.

turies, believing in

Epiphany: Bishop of Constantine born about 310. Jerome and opposed Origen in

One

Irenceus:

A

Dul^ar:

his

Teacher and friend of

numerous

writings.

of the early Christian fathers.

female deity corresponding to the Tara

—the

Mother of the

World.

Nubra: River Territ:

A

A A

Chorten:

Moraine:

in the

Nubra

district of

stupa, in Tibetan; a shrine over relics. line of rocks

and gravel

Martand: Temple three miles

tween 370-500 Sassar Sarai: Serai:

Kashmir.

on the Nubra River north of Leh.

site

A

camping

A

edge and base of

Islamabad

—

glaciers.

probably founded be-

A.D.

An encampment

Caravanserai:

at the

east of

place

beyond Sasser Pass.

or inn.

stopping place for the caravan.

Runes: The Runic language and characters are the mystery or sacerdotal tongue and alphabet of the ancient Scandinavians. Bogatyr: Knight, in Russian.

A

Kirghiz:

medan K’uen lun: Ko\yar:

A

nomad faith.

A

Mazar:

A\hun:

mountain range crossing northern India and Tibet.

small oasis in foothills south of Kargalik.

Sarts: Tribes

Ya\htan:

A

from eastern Russian Turkestan. small leather-covered

Tomb

A

race widely scattered through Central Asia, of

of holy

men

reader of the

wooden box.

or saints.

Koran

—a

title

[402]

indicating learning.

Moham-

GLOSSARY Aul: Mongol village (Tartar village).

A

Guma:

site

A

Dastarhhan:

A

Kluchino:

between Khotan and Kashgar. food-offering to a person of high position.

village in the

Tver government, Russia.

Nijni-Novgorod Fair: Far-famed peasant

fair

of Russia.

Ari\: Irrigation channel. Taf^la

Ma\an: The

buried

A

Kulan:

where

have been traced.

cities

A

Peshawar:

great desert covering central portion of Sinkiang

northwest frontier province of India.

city in the

wild ass (Asihus Kyang).

Barchans: Desert dunes.

Yamen: Chinese public office. Be\: Minor official of Chinese Turkestan.

Part VII

Head man,

A\sa\al:

or elder.

Sven Hedin:

A

W.

The well-known German

Filchner:

Swedish

traveler in Asia.

Prjevals\y: Russian explorer, Kosloff:

Eminent Russian

Kucha:

An

Sutra:

A

oasis

who

explorer of Tibet.

explored Central Asia.

scientist

and explorer, now

in Central Asia.

on the northern trade-route of Chinese Turkestan.

sacred book.

Karashahr

—Karashar: An

important

site

south of Urumchi.

Sir Charles Bell: British political officer for

Sikhim and Bhutan.

In 1921

conducted a diplomatic mission to Lhasa.

A

Sa\ya:

Kshatriya clan, which occupied a territory in the Nepal Terai,

from which Buddha sprang. Sir

Aurel Stein: Eminent archaeologist.

John Marshall, Director General of Archaeology in India.

Sir Marshall: Sir

A\su:

An

oasis

Tun-huang:

An

on the northern route of Chinese Turkestan. oasis of

western Kansu.

Kansu: Province of China, south of Lower Mongolia. Pelliot: Professor

Vihara:

A

Paul

Pelliot,

eminent French

sinologist.

Buddhist monastery.

Taels: Chinese currency.

Taotai: Chinese

Lao Tzin:

A

official.

contemporary Chinese philosopher and writer.

[403

]

—

A

Bal\h:

city of

Afghanistan.

Easter Islands: Islands of the Polynesian group in the Pacific.

A

Bezbojni\:

Russian newspaper dedicated to Atheism.

Tao: The name of the philosophy of Lao Tze.

Part VIII

A Turkish title Mafa: A carriage in Bey:

of respect.

Chinese Turkestan.

Pirosch\i: Pastry in Russia.

Ko\ochni\: The Russian women’s native headdress.

A

SadJ{o:

leading character

undersea

An

hangar:

Koshma:

in

“Sadko,” of

Rimsky-Korsakoff’s opera,

life.

inn.

Felt.

Diaghileff: Director of the Imperial Russian Ballet.

Bolm:

A

premier dancer in the Imperial Russian

A

To\har: to

people spoken of by Fa-hsien and other pilgrims; once said

have inhabited the

A

Ballet.

district

around Kuchar, now vanished.

conquering Turkestan and Dzungaria in 744 and maintaining an independent kingdom in valleys of T’ian Shan till

Uigurs:

Turki

1000 a d .

Kishlaf^s:

tribe

when

.

they migrated westward.

Winter settlement.

Doroga:

An

Torguts:

A

official in

Mongol

Turki. clan

which

settled

in

Russia, later emigrating into

Sinkiang. P’o-t’ai: Flat

tower of clay marking distances on the Sinkiang roads.

The

average distances between them are about 2V2 miles, although these constantly vary.

Li:

A

Chinese measure of distance, approximately 485 yards.

Barkjians: Sand mounds.

Buran: Hurricane.

Tseries:

Mobilized

soldiers.

Tamasha: Entertainment, a Kalmucks:

A

Mongolian

spectacle show.

tribe

which migrated

into Russia

and Chinese

Turkestan.

Arba\eshs, Majakeshs: Owners respectively of arbas carriages. [

404

]

—

carts,

and mafas

Kora\eshs: Owners of horses.

Troy \a: Carriage with three

horses.

Ulus: People, tribe.

Part IX Yurtas:

The

native tents of the Mongols.

Arshin: Russian measure.

Hunghutze: The Chinese robber bands operating along Manchuria;

chiefly

escaped criminals.

The “Holy Mountain,”

Bogdo-ul:

An

Kuac\a:

south of Urumchi, capital of Sinkiang.

ancient Russian headgear.

Kuindjy: One of Russia’s great

under

artists,

whom

Roerich

Professor

studied.

Ya\ub-Be\: Leader of

a

Mohammedan

rebellion against the Chinese

in

1865.

Tanguts: Branch of Mongol-Tartars spread

The name

Tripita\a:

Ribhvas: Planetary

in Central

of the Buddhist canon;

and Eastern

composed of three

Siberia.

divisions.

spirits.

Soma: Moon. Rig-Veda: the

first

of the four

Vedas or

scriptures of the

Meru, or Sumeru: The name of a mountain

Hindus.

said to be in the center of the

Earth and according to the East, the abode of the gods. Literally, new city. Kalmuck villages. T’ian Shan: Meaning Celestial mountains.

Novgorod: Ultus:

Marral: Deer found in the Altai region, the horns of which are powdered

and made

into medicine.

Tzagan Khutu\hta: Khutukhta white.

This

is

the highest rank of lama;

Tzagan

is

refers to a holy lama.

Alus: Villages.

A

Yerma\:

robber chieftain who, outlawed by the Tzar Ivan the Terrible,

went beyond the Ural and conquered a new

territory.

He was drowned

shortly after, in 1584.

Kolcha\:

A

general of the “white forces.”

A\-Dorje: Buddhist symbol of the thunderbolt.

Du\ang: Chief Temple Obo:

A

cairn of stones

of a lamaist monastery.

which crowns the summit of a [

405

]

pass.

:

ALTAI-HIMALAYA N orbu-rinpoche:

Precious jewel.

Panaga Tribe of northeastern Tibet. Horpa: Natives of Hor, northeastern Tibet. Dzong-pons: Head of an administrative

Dzong: Seat

government of the

of the

district.

district.

Menhirs: Megalithic stone monuments. Da-yig-letter: Official letter sent to the authorities

announcing the

arrival

of a person of high standing.

Kal\i Avatar: Kalki incarnation of Vishnu. Sho: Copper coin in Tibet (ten sho make one ngusang).

X—XII

Part Shambatyon:

A

river

mentioned in the Old Testament and said to have

mystic significance.

Katun:

A

Bya:

A

river in the Altai

mountains.

river in the Altai mountains.

Ails: Villages.

Oyrots:

Known

The

as the

Oirot has spread in the

belief in

time a

messenger of the White Burkhan or coming Buddha.

woman

of the

Shaman

last

generation.

her people that they must renounce their magic

in purity the

coming

of the

this

perceived in the mountains a

tribe,

who

vision of Oirot, a giant white figure on horseback, tell

Within

White Burkhan.

rites

Reference

is

bade her

and await here

made

to this legend.

Tchud: Derived from the word “wonder” Belovodye: Literally white waters. Panteleon: these

—and

attributed to a people.

Attributed to the

name

of a place.

and healer who gathered herbs and healed through

Saint

homely remedies.

Kabarga: The musk ram of Altai.

A\-\em: Meaning Baldur:

The Giver

literally

of

all

white water.

Good.

A

figure in Scandinavian mythology.

A\-Dorje: Buddhist symbol of the thunderbolt.

Du\ang: Obo:

N

A

A

chief

Temple

cairn of stones

of a lamaist Monastery.

which crowns the summit

orbu-rinpoche: Precious jewel.

Panaga: Tribe of northeastern Tibet.

Horpa: Natives

of

Hor, northeastern Tibet.

[406]

of a pass.

GLOSSARY Dzong-pons: Head of an administrative

Dzong: Seat of the government of the Menhirs: Megalithic stone monuments.

district.

district.

Da-yig-letter: Official letter sent to the authorities

announcing the

of a person of high standing.

Kal\i Avatar: Kalki incarnation of Vishnu. Sho: Copper coin in Tibet (ten sho

make one ngusang).

THE END

r

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arrival