All-Natural Perfume Making: Fragrances to Lift Your Mind, Body, and Spirit 9780760369142, 9780760369159, 0760369143

Table of contents :
Cover
Table of Contents
Introduction
What You Will Need
CHAPTER 1: Perfume Making 101
CHAPTER 2: Blending Basics
CHAPTER 3: Crafting Perfumes
CHAPTER 4: All About the Herbs
CHAPTER 5: Exploring Perfumes with Energy
CHAPTER 6: Sample Perfume Blends
A Last Word
Where to Buy Supplies
Websites & Additional Reading
Glossary

Citation preview

A L L - N A T U R A L

P erfume MAKING

2 All-Natural Perfume Making

A L L - N A T U R A L

P erfume MAKING F R AGR ANCES TO L I FT YO U R MI ND, B ODY, A N D S P I RI T BY KRISTEN SCHUHMANN

3

Brimming with creative inspiration, how-to projects, and useful information to enrich your everyday life, Quarto Knows is a favorite destination for those pursuing their interests and passions. Visit our site and dig deeper with our books into your area of interest: Quarto Creates, Quarto Cooks, Quarto Homes, Quarto Lives, Quarto Drives, Quarto Explores, Quarto Gifts, or Quarto Kids.

© 2021 Quarto Publishing Group First Published in 2021 by becker&mayer! books, an imprint of The Quarto Group. 11120 NE 33rd Place, Suite 201, Bellevue, WA 98004 USA. T (612) 344-8100 F (612) 344-8692 www.QuartoKnows.com

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the artists concerned, and no responsibility is accepted by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with information supplied. We apologize for any inaccuracies that may have occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a subsequent reprinting of the book. becker&mayer! books titles are also available at discount for retail, wholesale, promotional, and bulk purchase. For details, contact the Special Sales Manager by email at specialsales@quarto. com or by mail at The Quarto Group, Attn: Special Sales Manager, 100 Cummings Center Suite 265D, Beverly, MA 01915 USA. 21 22 23 24 25 5 4 3 2 1 ISBN: 978-0-7603-6914-2 Digital edition published in 2021 eISBN: 978-0-7603-6915-9 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available upon request. Image credits: Shutterstock Disclaimer: The information and recipes in this book are not intended to diagnose or treat any health issue or disease. Please seek the advice of a qualified health practitioner to discuss the use of herbs and/or essential oils in the form of complementary medicine, or if you are pregnant, nursing, or health-impaired in any way. #339921

This book is lovingly dedicated to: Aiden and Asher; my roots, Ray and Mary Ann; and my sunshine sister, Nicole. All of you bloom in my heart forever.

T able of Contents Introduction .............................................................. 9 What You Will Need ............................................... 10 CHAPTER 1

Perfume Making 101 ........ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 CHAPTER 2

Blending Basics ................ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 CHAPTER 3

Crafting Perfumes ............ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 CHAPTER 4

All About the Herbs ......... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 CHAPTER 5

Exploring Perfumes with Energy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 CHAPTER 6

Sample Perfume Blends ... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 A Last Word ........................................................... 122 Where to Buy Supplies ....................................... 124 Websites & Additional Reading ......................... 125 Glossary .................................................................. 126

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8 All-Natural Perfume Making

I ntroduction

W

hen my sister and I were young, one of our favorite activities was to gather all the highly fragranced products in the house

(shampoos, moisturizers, shower gels, conditioners, after-sun creams, and anything else that smelled good), mix them all together in a big bowl, and pretend to make our own signature perfumes. I had no idea at that time how easy it is to actually make your own custom perfumes, and it’s every bit as fun and even more rewarding than it was in those pretend sessions with my sister. Making your own perfume with all-natural ingredients (which was definitely not what my sister and I were using when we were kids) is truly a joyful and life-enriching experience. The act of creation is something we all crave, but after childhood’s LEGO®-building and castle-drawing days are over, creativity often gets pushed aside for the daily responsibilities of adulthood. Perfume making gives you the gift of creativity time, and you will also end up with a useful product—a perfume that is beauty, personal expression, and wellness rolled into one. Depending on which ingredients you use and your end goals, you can make perfumes that uplift your mood, relax or perk up your brain, and smell exactly as you want. It’s also a sustainable hobby, because you can reuse bottles and buy ingredients in bulk, avoiding the unnecessary packaging and carbon footprint that might result from a store-bought perfume. Natural perfume making allows you to use non-toxic ingredients that do not pollute the environment in their creation, use, or disposal. You may even be able to source ingredients from your garden. Once you’ve made your oils and extracts, you can compost the herbs used back into the earth. This creative hobby is the perfect melding of health, beauty, and pure fun in every way, and I hope you enjoy each step of the process as much as I do.

Introduction

9

What You Will Need What you will need to make natural perfumes varies, depending on whether you are making herbal extracts and infusions, using essential oils in alcohol or oil, or making a solid perfume. Here are some things that will make crafting a breeze, and the best part is that you probably have most, if not all, of the supplies at home already.

• A few clean glass jars with lids to steep your herbal extracts and oils. These glass jars can be reused by putting them through a sanitize cycle in the dishwasher or rinsing them with alcohol.

• Measuring cups and spoons

• 80 to 100 proof alcohol, such as vodka (which has the least amount of scent)

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• Oil, such as sweet almond oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, or olive oil

• Dried herbs and/or flower tops (such as rose petals, calendula tops, violets, or chamomile)

• Small glass containers (around 1 oz. or smaller) for blending the essential oils (do not use plastic for storing essential oils)

• Essential oils of your choice

• A funnel for pouring liquids into bottles

What You Will Need

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• Beeswax or carnauba wax for solid perfumes. Carnauba wax, which comes from the leaves of a Brazilian palm tree, is completely vegan and regularly used in the cosmetics and body care industries. • Glass bottles for the finished perfumes with either a screw top, a pump top, a spray top, or a roller ball. Dark glass is optimal for natural perfumes because it protects the contents from sunlight, which can cause the perfume to age and fade before its time. If you only have clear glass available, just be sure to store your perfume in a cool, dark location.

• Cheesecloth and a mesh strainer for infusions and extracts

• A wooden chopstick or spoon for stirring

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• Containers for solid perfume can be glass, plastic, or tin. Reusing old lip balm containers either in a small round balm size or a push-up container will work.

• A double boiler for making herbal oil infusions. If you don’t have a double boiler, you can use a glass measuring cup in a pot of water.

Timing Most recipes in this book take several weeks before they are ready. Like anything worthwhile, natural perfume making requires patience, so make sure you set aside the time in advance. If you steep your product for a longer time, the scent will likely be stronger and the active ingredients will be more abundant. Most herbalists believe four weeks is ample time (a system originally governed by the moon cycles), but some believe extra time makes certain that they are truly getting all the active constituents from the plant into the oil or alcohol. Personally, I am too impatient to intentionally wait any longer than four weeks (other than with vanilla extract which definitely does take longer) and I have always been satisfied

• Labels (which can be as simple as a piece of paper with tape)

with my oils and extracts.

A WORD OF WARNING

• A notebook for recording all your unique recipes

Essential oils are not recommended for children under the age of twelve, so use only herbal oils, extracts, flower waters, and hydrosols when making perfume with kids. Pets are best kept away from perfume making, as essential oils can be too concentrated for them. Put them outside or in another room during crafting.

What You Will Need

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CHAPTER 1

Perfume Making 1 01

Natural Perfume Materials Essential oils play a huge role in natural perfume making, but the options for infusing your perfume with other natural scents are endless! Before you begin, it’s important to understand the basic definitions of the ingredients, since there are many substances that may seem similar, but are used in different ways and proportions. For example, rose oil, rose hip oil, rose essential oil, rose absolute, rose water, and rose fragrance are all different substances. Although they all originate from the same rose plant, they are each distinct materials with different uses and benefits. Here’s a quick primer that will come in handy as you begin mixing scents and infusing oils.

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What Are Essential Oils? Essential oil is the concentrated essence of plant matter, most often bottled through steam distillation. A large amount of plant material is loaded into a still and steamed so that the natural oils are separated from steaming water vapors. When the steam cools, the essential oils go into one holding tank while the water is separated into another. To demonstrate how much plant material is involved in making essential oils, keep this in mind: to make a cup of rose oil you need half a cup of rose petals. To make one ounce of rose essential oil you need 60,000 rose blossoms. How much plant material it takes to bottle an essential oil varies a lot depending on the plant, but it is always far more than what it takes to make an herbal oil or extract (which we’ll learn how to make in chapter 4).

MODERN ESSENTIAL OIL’S SERENDIPITOUS BEGINNING Lavender has been traditionally used for its therapeutic benefits and is known for beginning the research into the medicinal qualities of essential oils. The story goes that a French chemist and scholar named René-Maurice Gattefossé had an accident in his laboratory which left his arms burned. After using lavender oil on his burns, he noticed such a lack of scarring that he began studying the medicinal qualities of essential oils on World War I burn victims.

Perfume Making 101

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Take care to do your research when purchasing essential oils, because sourcing the wrong product can completely

DON’T BUG ME!

change your results. For example, rose essential oil is

One of the surprising

sometimes referred to simply as “rose oil,” but they are

benefits of wearing

not the same thing. Be sure to read the label carefully to

perfumes made with

avoid any mix-ups.

essential oils is that they

Since they are extremely concentrated, essential oils

tend to make pesky bugs

are very potent and tend to be more expensive per ounce

avoid you. Some

than some of the other ingredients listed here. This is in

essential oils, such as

part due to the amount of plant material needed, but other factors in cost include the difficulty in harvesting and/or processing the essential oil as well as how abundant or rare the plant is. Essential oils are the most potent of all herbal products and should be used with respect and a few cautions found at the end of this chapter.

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citronella and lemon eucalyptus, are especially good protectors, but almost all the essential oils deter bugs.

What Are Herbal Oils? Herbal oils are made by combining herbs with an oil, such as olive oil or sweet almond oil (I’ll show you how to make herbal oils in chapter 4). The oils contain their own benefits, as do the

SEA SCENTS

infused herbs. Herbal oils have their own subtle aromas and can

Sailors traveling in the

be used as a base for your perfumes or in other products, such as

West Indies first began

lip balm or body butter.

using bay leaves as a natural deodorant.

What Are Herbal Extracts? Another type of base you can use for perfume is an herbal

When mixed with another ingredient they had on hand, rum, it became a scent

extract. This is similar to an herbal oil, but it is made by infusing

profile that is still used

your herbs in alcohol instead of oil (see chapter 4 to learn how to

today. See page 77

make your own). An example of an herbal extract is the tradi-

for instructions on

tional men’s scent bay rum, which is made by steeping bay leaves

making your own bay

in rum. You can make a fuller, more complex natural perfume

rum cologne.

by combining essential oils with herbal extracts.

Perfume Making 101

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What Are Hydrosols? A hydrosol is made of the water vapor collected during steam distillation. Since hydrosols retain some of the plant’s fragrance and healing benefits, they can be used in perfumery. However, they are far less potent than essential oils.

What Is Fragrance? Anything labeled a fragrance does not come from a plant. It is synthetic and created in a lab in order to mimic natural herbal scents. For example, rose fragrance may do a good job of imitating a natural rose petal or essential oil scent, but it doesn’t have the same benefits and the chemicals used to create it don’t interact with our brains and bodies in the same ways as organic materials do.

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What Are Absolutes? Absolutes are other scented plant products you can use to make perfume. Unlike essential oils, absolutes are usually extracted from plants using a solvent. Since they are typically combined with jojoba oil, absolutes work well in oil-based perfumes, but not in alcohol-based ones. For alcohol-based perfumes, look instead to essential oils, extracts, hydrosols, or flower waters.

What Are Bases and Carriers? Most essential oils should not be applied directly to the skin. You can use a carrier oil or an alcohol to dilute it before using it on your skin. In this book we use three types of bases for your perfumes: alcohol, oil, and solid (wax).

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Lift Your Mood with EssentialOil-Based Perfumes Now that you know the basic terminology, let’s talk about why essential oils make great natural perfumes. Essential oils are particularly strong mood balancers, with beneficial effects on stress levels, mental alertness, and emotional health. This makes them especially effective in therapeutic perfumery, or aromatherapy. Each essential oil has a general set of attributes traditionally associated with it, but results can vary from person to person. Take the attributes listed as general guidelines and trust your own senses when deciding which essential oils are right for you. Scent is a personal experience, most notably because it has a direct path to the part of our brain responsible for memories, found in the limbic system. Scent-memory links are often subconscious, so essential oils can stir up any number of emotions. Citrus essential oils, for example, are traditionally known as uplifting, energizing scents, often used in antidepressant blends and to aid weight loss. But if someone is allergic to grapefruit or has a bad memory associated with the scent, it may evoke uncomfortable feelings and perhaps even fear and vulnerability. That’s the opposite of uplifting and energizing!

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Make It Personal Your personal relationship with plants and their essential oils are far more important than traditional use or expert suggestions, so use them at your own discretion. On the following pages you'll find a guide to over twenty popular essential oils with their benefits. These attributes hold true for the plant itself in all forms, but in the essential oil form the attributes are most concentrated and therefore most potent. In other words, a little goes a long way with essential oils. All essential oils are adaptogens, meaning they adapt to the specific needs of a person’s body. You really can’t go wrong when blending essential oils for your perfume, so start with a small selection and build your inventory over time. If you’re new to essential oils, my best piece of advice is to go to a natural food store and smell their samples. After about four or five, your sense of smell will be inundated. So just know that it might take a few sample trips before you find your perfect scents. I’d also suggest getting a variety of fragrances, such as citrus, wood, flower, herb, and spice. That is, unless you already know that you are averse to spicy scents and adore florals. Follow your nose!

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Popular Essential Oil Scents

Use this reference chart as your guide when creating your perfume

NUTMEG Most enjoy this spicy scent and find it invigorating and stimulating to the mind. It is also known for its aphrodisiac qualities. Though the essential oil is stimulating, the herb itself is actually used as a sleep aid in some herbal traditions.

C E DA RWO O D This unmistakable wood essential oil has been in use since the time of the ancient Egyptians, who, in addition to other uses, applied it as an insect repellent. With its grounding aspect for relaxation and resiliency, it can be a good scent for our busy modern life.

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L E M O NG R A S S This fresh, mood-boosting, energetic scent is also antibacterial, antifungal, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and insect-repelling. It is a revitalizing, clean, somewhat exotic scent that many call a favorite.

NEROLI It takes a thousand freshly picked orange blossoms to create one pound of neroli essential oil, which makes it one of the more expensive oils. Its floral fragrance has both anti-anxiety and antidepressant properties, making it an important addition to mental health blends.

C I N NA M O N

PEPPERMINT

This spicy, rejuvenating, and warming essential oil is comforting and relaxing with a hint of sass. The essential oil made from cinnamon bark is more warming and more likely to cause irritation than cinnamon leaf essential oil, but both should be highly diluted when used and spot-tested to make sure they don’t irritate your skin. I recommend sticking to the cinnamon leaf essential oil unless following a recipe specifically calling for the bark.

Refreshing, awakening, and cooling, this essential oil is used in muscle rubs, foot baths, and after-sun care. It has an invigorating effect on the mind and can aid mental clarity and fight fatigue. It also repels insects and cools sunburns, so it’s a nice summer scent. Use a small amount of the oil in preparations and spot check it, though, because it can irritate the skin.

B E R GA M O T

Y L A NG Y L A NG

Not everyone knows that bergamot is a citrus! It’s my favorite citrus, in fact, with its uplifting, antidepressant, and anti-anxiety scent that makes it a powerful addition to emotional and mental health blends. It is what gives Earl Grey tea its special flavor, so it might smell familiar. Since it is a citrus, it does cause photosensitivity so be extra mindful of sun exposure.

I must admit, ylang ylang is my favorite scent and has been for a few years now. Its floral, clean, romantic, and exotic scent is the perfect combination of beauty and relaxation. It is calming, an antidepressant, and helps ease fatigue. It can also help with stress relief and grief—even helping release anger in a positive way. Perfume Making 101

25

E U CA LY P T U S

ROSE

This essential oil is clarifying, clean, fresh, and strong. It is used for muscle rubs and clearing nasal passages. Though it smells cooling, it is warming on the skin. Good for mental clarity and uplifting, it really helps fight fatigue and the related brain fog.

This intensely floral scent supports the heart and feelings of love of all kinds. It is also relaxing and offers emotional support through stressful times, such as grief or heartbreak. Rose essential oil is used in skincare for all skin types and rose petal tea can be taken to relax or for a stress headache.

JA S M I N E This intensely floral, romantic, sensual, and exotic essential oil is easily recognizable and always intoxicating. It can improve mental concentration and is also an antidepressant.

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C L A RY SAG E This herby-floral scent is emotionally balancing, a hormone regulator, and an antidepressant. It’s often used to treat PMS and is great in well-being blends focused on mental and emotional health.

SA N DA LWO O D This spiritual wood is simultaneously grounding, elevating, and relaxing. In terms of perfumery, it is known as the essential oil which has the longest-lasting scent, so I tend to use it a lot in blends. It mixes well with a wide variety of other essential oils.

GERANIUM This floral essential oil is used in skin care for all skin types and has a balancing effect on both emotions and hormones. It is also used for its insect-repelling properties.

F R A N K I NC E NS E Frankincense has a long tradition as a spiritual resin, with purifying qualities. It has lately become popular again for its antidepressant qualities. It is known to be particularly healthy for both body and mind.

S W E E T O R A NG E Sweet Orange is another uplifting citrus oil that encourages happiness and boosts mood and confidence. Its antidepressant qualities make it great for SAD (Seasonal Affective Disorder).

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THYME This antifungal, antibacterial, and antiviral essential oil has a long history of use in supporting courage and bravery. It has been used as a warrior symbol since ancient Roman times and is fortifying to the spirit, dispelling fear and easing fatigue.

FENNEL Warming and restoring, this essential oil has been used since ancient Roman and Egyptian times to impart courage and strength.

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L AV E N D E R This is by far the best-known and most widely used essential oil. It is herbaceously floral, relaxing, has anti-anxiety qualities, and can be a sleep aid. It is known as the one essential oil that can mix well with all other essential oils.

G R A P E F RU I T Like all citrus essential oils, grapefruit is an uplifting, joyful, confidence-boosting scent. As an antidepressant, it’s great for winter blues.

TEA TREE

VA N I L L A

Cleansing and purifying, this oil is often used to treat skin issues, and acts in therapeutic ways for both short- and long-term health concerns. It is often used in first aid, and less often in perfumery, but I include it here for therapeutic aromatherapy purposes involving physical health.

Vanilla is not a true essential oil, but the scent is relaxing and aphrodisiac in its various forms. It can be used in perfumery as an absolute, an extract, or an herbal oil. I use it in one or two of these forms in almost all my perfumes because I love the scent and can’t get enough.

LEMON

R O S E M A RY

Lemon can improve mental concentration and alertness and is uplifting, cleansing, invigorating, and refreshing. Like all citrus essential oils, it causes photosensitivity, so be extra mindful of sun exposure.

Rosemary helps with brain tasks, such as focus, memory, and creativity. It is stimulating and awakening, and can help ease anxiety and depression. It is also used for hair loss, skin care, and boosting the immune system.

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S ce ccent ent en nt C at aategories teg te egor egor gori orie ies es Love “Potions” Scent has a long history in playing significant roles in flirtation, seduction, and intimacy. Since scent has a unique pathway directly to the brain, it is no surprise that it can play a starring role in attraction and chemistry. Any scent can be an aphrodisiac if it relaxes the person wearing it and smelling it. I don’t know how vanilla came to be thought of as boring or plain, because its scent is most associated as an aphrodisiac for both men and women. Vanilla isn’t available as an essential oil, because it cannot be steam-distilled, but in perfume-making you can use it as an absolute, extract, or oil. I like to make vanilla extract the base of my alcohol perfumes, but the extract can also be used in smaller amounts as an addition instead of using it as the whole base (I’ll show you how to make vanilla extract on page 78). Roses are universally associated with romantic love. Legend has it that Cleopatra famously seduced first Caesar and then Marc Antony by surrounding her quarters with an abundance of roses and making use of their enchanting aroma. Rose essential oil is quite expensive, but rose can also be found as an absolute. Other essential oils that are often listed as aphrodisiacs are jasmine, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Again, scents are extremely personal and your own relationship with the aroma is what matters most. For my favorite aphrodisiac blend, see page 109.

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Perfume Making 101

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Remember When In Shakespeare's Hamlet, Ophelia says, “There’s rosemary, that’s for remembrance.” Today, rosemary is still the most well-known essential oil for aiding memory and keeping the mind alert and focused. Any essential oil can be used as a memory aid, though. When studying for a test, an interview, or some other event that requires a mind in peak performance mode, diffuse or wear a certain scent while studying and prepping, then wear that same scent on the big day. Since rosemary encourages the brain to be alert and focused, it is best used as a daytime scent. Lemon, eucalyptus, and peppermint are also known to boost brain power, improve focus, and help with clarity of thought. Although lavender is known as a relaxant, it can also have the opposite effect when used in higher concentrations. A calm brain is ready to move through its tasks with competence and ease, while an anxious brain is in suboptimal condition, often cluttered and distracted. So do not overlook the relaxing essential oils because they are not “productive” enough. For a Brain Power Booster blend, see page 115.

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The Feel-Good Factor There is a scientific link between lack of sun in the winter and feeling blue, often referred to as Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD). St. John’s wort and other antidepressant plants like citrus support well-being by actually increasing your body’s photosensitivity—that is, helping you absorb more sun. Because of this, I recommend wearing extra sunscreen when using these essential oils on your skin (especially if you’ll be in direct sunshine). Clary sage is traditionally used as an emotion-balancing essential oil, so mood swings are less likely to derail someone wearing it. Paired with bergamot, which is an uplifting citrus scent, it makes a great antidepressant combination, especially for wintertime blues. For my favorite antidepressant blend, see page 112.

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Just Chill Lavender is the best-known relaxing scent, but many of the essential oils can induce feelings of relaxation and have anti-anxiety qualities. Neroli, the flower blossoms of orange trees, were traditionally used in bridal bouquets to combat nerves. Neroli is an expensive essential oil but can also be found as an absolute or a flower water (also known as “orange blossom water”). Vanilla is a relaxing scent. Cedar is known to be grounding, which can take one out of the realm of racing thoughts and assist in relaxation and perhaps even sleep. Chamomile is also known for its potent relaxing properties. See page 111 for my favorite relaxation blend.

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Creativity Boosters Bay has a long history in encouraging creativity. The herb was at one time put under pillows to encourage creativity while sleeping, and bay laurel loans its name to poet laureates, Nobel laureates, and all other laureates everywhere. Laurel crowns are symbols not only of victory, but also of nobility, graduation, and intellectual achievements. The scent is most recognized in bay rum cologne but can be used in any perfume to support creative and/or intellectual endeavors. Rosemary has been known to boost creativity, and peppermint helps with feeling creatively blocked or stuck in a rut.

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THE SWEET SMELL OF VICTORY! Bay laurel crowns can still be seen on the victorious heads of Olympians and graduates, a tradition that began in ancient Greece.

Spirited Away Scent can also be used for spiritual purposes. Sandalwood and frankincense have long histories of being used in religious or spiritual ceremonies and can be great scents to wear during meditation, religious services, or when engaged in spiritual rituals of any kind. Sandalwood was used to build temples and is still a highly revered plant. Frankincense was one of the gifts the magi brought Jesus right after his birth and remains the incense of choice in many Christian ceremonies. Palo santo and sage are also used in spiritual practices, both in the dried herb form and as essential oils. Make your own cleansing spiritual scent with a sample blend on page 113.

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Health and Wellness Need a little help sailing through flu season unscathed? Essential oils have the same antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties as the herbs from which they’re derived. People have been using herbs to keep diseases away for centuries, most notably during the Middle Ages when there were many different combinations used to try to ward off the plague. Those famous birdlike beaks that the plague doctors wore were filled with herbs to assist in warding off the “bad air.” They weren’t aware it was actually the bodily fluids they needed to protect against, so breathing in the purified air through the herbs was a key component in their disease defense strategy. Essential oils can be powerful microbial fighters and also help to boost the immune system by lowering stress. Some essential oils especially known for antimicrobial properties are thyme, rosemary, oregano, cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom. Using a combination of essential oils offers the broadest array of protections because some are more antibacterial, others are more antiviral or antifungal, and others have combinations of two or more of these attributes. See page 114 for an illness prevention blend.

THYME TO BE BRAVE Thyme has a long history of being related to warrior-type bravery. Roman soldiers leaving for battle were given sprigs of thyme by their loved ones to bolster their bravery. When they returned, they were again given thyme—this time to honor their courageous deeds. In the Middle Ages, ladies sewed symbols of thyme or actual sprigs of thyme into their knights’ garments as a token of affection. Today we know thyme has incredible antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties which make it a fighter against germs and diseases.

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Energy Support Scents can be energizing wake-up helpers, just as they can also be relaxing sleep-inducers. For pick-me-up energy, reach for any of the citrus oils, the mints (especially peppermint), or rosemary. These natural scents are energy-promoting without the pitfalls of other energy sources, such as caffeine.

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What to Know Before You Blend Essential oils are potent, so it’s best to work with them in a well-ventilated room and to always keep bottles capped when you’re not using them. If you feel nauseous, light-headed, or get a headache while blending, get fresh air and drink water. One of the special properties of essential oils compared to chemical fragrances is that they always move in and out of our bodies in a natural, dynamic flow. Because of this, a natural perfume scent will not last as long as a chemical fragrance no matter how strong you make it. It is just the nature of essential oils to dissipate into the air more quickly than artificial fragrances. Simply make the blend the potency that you like and plan to reapply it throughout the day. Learn more about layering as a way to make scents last longer in chapter 3.

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Here are a few other things to consider when blending essential oils: • Never use essential oils directly on your skin without first diluting them in a perfume mixture or with a carrier. Essential oils are potent enough to irritate or even damage your skin when applied directly. If you have sensitive skin, always start with a small amount of essential oils in your base and you can add more if needed. • Cinnamon and clove can be especially irritating to some people, so start small and test your skin’s sensitivity. If cinnamon bark is too harsh, try cinnamon leaf, which tends to be less irritating. • Essential oils can cause a variety of health problems during pregnancy, so it’s recommended you avoid them if you are pregnant—particularly basil, clary sage, cedarwood, cypress, juniper, mugwort, parsley seed, pennyroyal, rose, rue, sage, sassafras, savin, tansy, thuja, and wormwood. • All citrus essential oils can cause photosensitivity. This means that if you use them, your skin is more likely to react to the sun. Extra sunscreen is advisable. • Keep essential oils away from eyes, children, and pets. • Do not use any essential oil from a plant to which you have an allergy. • The National Cancer Institute recommends avoiding the following essential oils if you have cancer: aniseed, basil, bay, cinnamon, clove, fennel, ho leaf, laurel, nutmeg, and star anise. If you have an estrogen-dependent form of cancer also avoid citronella, eucalyptus, lavender, lemongrass, and verbena. • Essential oils and herbs are support materials only and should be part of a full health regime, including seeking advice from doctors or other health care providers for any concerns you have.

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CHAPTER 2

Blending Basics

Blending Essential Oils There are several ways to approach perfume blending. Do you want to achieve mental, emotional, physical, or purely aesthetic goals? It’s up to you. If your mission is to elevate your mental state, you likely want to improve focus and alertness, or to support relaxation and quiet the mind. Emotional support often includes balancing moods, easing depression and/or anxiety, and supporting stress management. A physical approach might be to aid weight loss, encourage circulation, ease aches and pains, or support skin health. Blending for aesthetic results means you are simply blending for the beauty of the scent itself.

46 All-Natural Perfume Making

Start Small The first rule of blending is to start small. The scent of two or more essential oils will change over time as they meld together. Blend a small amount in a dark glass bottle and let it sit for a week or two to get the best idea of how it will smell as a mature blend. Dark glass ensures your scent will last longer, since sunlight can cause the smell to fade. If you are a beginner, start with four essential oils or fewer. Experienced blenders should generally use fewer than seven essential oils in a blend. Think about it like color blending. When two or three colors blend, they create something bright and beautiful, but add too many colors and you end up with a bland brown. There are exceptions to this rule, of course, but in general less really is more with natural perfumes. Every essential oil and blend will smell different on each person’s body, so even a perfume of just one essential oil can become a truly unique signature scent. If you really love fennel or lavender, try making a perfume with just that essential oil or with different bases. A lavender herbal oil or vanilla extract, for example, are both very strong on their own. You might be surprised at how powerful one scent can be!

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47

TOP NO T E S

48 All-Natural Perfume Making

MIDDLE NO T E S

Top, Middle, and Base Notes For more advanced and complex scents, try experimenting with aroma notes in mind. In perfumery, scents are divided into top notes, middle notes, and base notes. The top notes are the first you smell, the middle notes are known as the heart of the perfume, and the base notes linger the longest. In general, for a perfume to smell the most balanced and well-rounded, you want to choose essential oils from each note category. You can choose just one or two essential BA S E NO T E S

oils and have a lovely perfume, but understanding the notes can help you build your blend into a more sophisticated scent and balance it for the longest-lasting impact. The note categories are not an exact science (and there are conflicting charts out there), but in general top notes feature citruses, mints, herbs, and spices; middle notes feature flowers, spices, some herbs, and even woods; and base notes feature most of the woods, resins, and some strong spices. Lavender, a stand-out essential oil for several reasons, is sometimes found in all three categories and is known as the one essential oil that can blend well with every other essential oil. If you can’t decide what to blend with your favorite scent, give lavender a try.

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49

Common Scent Notes Here is a chart of some common top, middle, and base notes. These note profiles hold true whether you’re crafting with only herbs and flowers or essential oils. These categories are not hard and fast rules, and some scents naturally fit into multiple categories.

TO P N OTES Bergamot Orange Peppermint Rosemary

Basil Lavender Neroli Eucalyptus Lemongrass

Thyme Sage Chamomile Cardamom

MID D L E NOTES Lavender Nutmeg Clary Sage Neroli

Tea Tree Fennel Ylang Ylang Jasmine Rose

Black Pepper Juniper Geranium Bay

B ASE NOTES Cedarwood Cypress Ginger Myrrh Cinnamon

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Sandalwood Vanilla Vetiver Ylang Ylang

Clove Patchouli Pine Rose Frankincense

The Science of Blending When blending, it helps to have a clear idea of what you want your end result to be. Proportions are key! Keep in mind how strong the essential oil smells and if it falls into more than one note class. You don’t need all three notes to make a perfume, but using a top, middle, and base note will make the most full-bodied perfume with the longest-lasting scent. In general, the more concentrated essential oils should make up a smaller portion of your blend or else they will overpower it. Rose and jasmine are classic examples of this. I have never used more than one drop of the highly concentrated and notoriously expensive rose and jasmine essential oils. Both are incredibly strong and make their presence known with just one drop among many other drops of essential oils. In the end, the most important rule in blending is to follow your intuition.

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51

Note Proportions There is no magic formula for proportions, but here’s a guide with some examples of percentages if you wish to use them (see more recipes for sample blends in chapter 6). M I D D L E NO T E - H E AV Y P E R F U M E

20%

TOP NOTE

50% MIDDLE NOTE

30% BASE NOTE

BA S E NO T E - H E AV Y P E R F U M E

TOP NOTE

15% 20%

MIDDLE NOTE

65% BASE NOTE

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Blends You’ll Love Using an inverted or upright triangle shape is a great way to think about choosing the right amount of each scent for your blends. It is easiest to think of the scent percentages in terms of 10 or 100 drops. If that smells good to you, you can multiply those by ten to make a stronger blend. Simply add more or less essential oil to adjust the proportions. Here are a few of my favorites.

MOOD SUPPORT BLEND

50% Bergamot (5 drops)

TOP NOTE

40% Clary Sage (4 drops)

MIDDLE NOTE BASE NOTE

10% Frankincense (1 drop)

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53

WOODSY BLEND

20% lime (2 drops) TOP NOTE

30% bay or juniper (3 drops) MIDDLE NOTE

50% cedar or sandalwood (5 drops)

BASE NOTE

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FLORAL BLEND

TOP NOTE

10% chamomile (1 drop)

80% lavender or ylang ylang (8 drops)

MIDDLE NOTE BASE NOTE

10% patchouli (1 drop)

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55

Using and Storing Your Blend Blend your essential oils and let them marinate together for around a week before adding them to a carrier (a base oil or alcohol) or combining them with any other ingredients. This step should be done in a glass bottle because essential oils can break down plastic. After the essential oils have had a chance to blend, you’ll get the best idea of what the final perfume will be over time (and you can make any adjustments to the scent at this time). Once you’ve perfected your essential oil blend and added it to a carrier (more about carriers in the next chapter), your simple perfume is ready to wear. If you are in a hurry, you can put your essential oils directly in alcohol or oil to make your perfume immediately wearable. Just be sure you shake the mixture well before applying, and know that the scent will change over time. Be sure to write down exactly what you do, so you have a record of your unique recipes and notes on what worked out and what needed adjusting. This will help improve your scent blending as you gain more experience. A log is invaluable as you create scents for yourself and your loved ones. These custom scents can even be passed down like food recipes for generations to enjoy!

GIFTING PERFUMES Ask your friends and family members about their favorite scents so you can make them personalized homemade gifts. Almost everyone can name a flower or scent that they have an affinity for, and they will appreciate a perfume that is made just for them.

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MAKING ESSENTIAL OILS LAST Essential oils stay potent for five to ten years or even longer, though they do lose potency over time. Citrus oils lose potency more quickly, so use them within two to five years. The best way to store essential oils is in a dark glass container away from heat and light.

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CHAPTER 3

Crafting Perfumes

Forms of N atural P erfume Now that you have your favorite essential oils blended together, it’s time to add the base to make it a perfume. Most natural perfumes exist in one of three forms; alcohol-based, oil-based, or solid. Choosing your base depends on how you want to use your perfume. Alcohol-based perfumes are the only ones that work well in spray bottles. They can also be kept in rollerball or open-mouth containers, and one of their perks is that they have the longest shelf life. They will basically never go bad, though the essential oils do lose their potency over time. Using alcohol-based perfumes within a year is recommended. Oil-based perfumes are the only kind that work well in a pump-style container, though they also work in rollerball or open-mouth containers. If you intend to use your perfume on large areas like a body oil, then oil-based is your clear choice. Oils have the added benefit of being healthy ingredients themselves and make a nourishing replacement for body lotion. Oil-based perfumes do not last as long as alcohol-based perfumes do, and should ideally be used within three to six months (adding vitamin E to oils as a preservative will help them stay fresh for up to a year). A solid perfume is usually made with wax and looks lovely in old lockets, antique boxes, or reusable glass jars. Solids travel easily (no spilling!) but they can melt if they are in a warm place for too long. With a solid perfume, beware of summertime cars, beach bags, and even the prolonged exposure to body heat in pockets. Now it’s time to move on to crafting perfumes with your preferred base.

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Crafting Perfumes

61

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CRAFTING ALCOHOL-BASED PERFUMES (prep time: 5 minutes) When making an alcohol-based perfume, the best option is vodka because it has the least amount of scent and is easy to find. Other alcohols can be used to create distinct aromas, such as the classic men’s scent, bay rum. Any alcohol used in perfumery should be at least 80-100 proof. You will need: •

Your essential oil blend

•

Vodka

•

A small dark glass container (if using clear glass, just be sure to keep the perfume in a cool, dark spot so that sunlight and heat don’t cause your scent to fade)

Step 1: Start by measuring the amount of alcohol going into the container. Add 5 drops of your essential oil blend per teaspoon of alcohol. If it is not strong enough, add up to 25 drops of essential oils per teaspoon of alcohol. Somewhere around 20-25 drops of essential oil blend per teaspoon of alcohol is where I generally land, but remember, making it stronger does not make it last longer. For emotional and mental benefits, the scent does not need to be strong at all.

Step 2: Since there are 6 teaspoons in an ounce, I usually end up with between 30 and 150 drops of essential oil blend per ounce of alcohol in the finished product. Be sure to label the bottle, cap it tightly, and shake it gently before each use so that the contents are well-mixed.

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CRAFTING OIL-BASED PERFUMES (prep time: 5 minutes) Massaging the body with perfume body oil before or after baths or showers is a ritual I highly recom-mend. For crafting oil-based perfumes, choose an oil like jojoba, sweet almond, grapeseed, or fraction-

WHAT IS FRACTIONATED

ated (liquid) coconut oil for the base, or use a

COCONUT OIL?

combination of oils. I like using a blend of herb-in-

Fractionated coconut oil is

fused sweet almond and grapeseed oil, with a bit of

coconut oil with a main fatty acid

apricot kernel and avocado oil to make it extra

removed, which changes the

emollient and add a protective layer to the skin. The

naturally solid oil into a liquid. It

essential oils make the body oil even more therapeu-

also very much reduces that

tic and it’s a delightful way to perfume oneself.

signature coconutty scent.

These can also be used as massage or bath oils.

You will need: •

Your essential oil blend

•

A carrier oil of your choice

•

A dark glass container for your finished product (if using clear glass, just be sure to store your perfume in a cool, dark place)

Step 1: Combine your essential oil blend with your carrier oil. The proportions are the same as those used in alcohol-based perfumes. In general, you want between 3 to 5 drops of essential oil blend per teaspoon of oil to start, up to 25 drops of essential oils per teaspoon. Since there are 6 teaspoons per ounce, start with 18 to 30 drops of essential oil per ounce, up to 150 drops per ounce.

Step 2: One you have dropped your essential oils into the carrier oil, cap the container tightly, then rub it between your palms to mix.

Step 3: Label the bottle and shake it gently before each use. After labeling your perfume, be sure to write down your recipe with notes on what you might want to change next time.

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To increase shelf life for oil-based perfumes, you can add the contents of one

JOJOBA OIL

vitamin E softgel to each container. Vitamin E is not

Jojoba oil has the longest shelf life and is

only a natural preservative,

my personal favorite to use in pump tops

but it is also nourishing and

and rollerball containers. It absorbs

healing for the skin.

quickly without leaving a greasy feel and is close to odorless.

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65

CRAFTING SOLID PERFUMES (prep time: 24 hours) It is a little more involved to make a solid perfume, as this method requires heating your ingredients. This recipe shows you how to make 1 oz. of solid perfume, but feel free to adjust the proportions if your finished container is smaller or larger.

You will need:

Vitamin E is an optional ingredient you can

•

A double boiler set-up

add if you wish to extend your perfume’s shelf

•

1 tablespoon carrier oil, such as jojoba, sweet almond, or grapeseed oil

use your perfume within 3 to 6 months).

•

2 teaspoons beeswax or a vegan wax like carnauba wax

Step 1:

•

A wooden spoon or chopstick for stirring

measuring cup placed in a pot filled with a few

•

1 vitamin E softgel capsule (optional)

•

Your essential oil blend

•

A small container for your

•

finished solid perfume

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life longer than 6 months (otherwise, plan to

Prep your double boiler. I use a glass Pyrex inches of water. If you have a true double boiler, that works too. Have all your materials set up and ready to go, including the container you want your solid perfume to go in, because this process goes fast.

Step 2: Bring the water in your pot or the bottom of your double boiler to hot, but not boiling. The water should not actually boil during this entire process; you just need it warm enough to melt the wax.

Step 3: If the container you will be putting your finished solid perfume in is 1 oz., pour 1 tablespoon of your carrier oil into the Pyrex measuring cup or the top of the double boiler.

Step 4: Add 2 teaspoons wax to the oil and occasionally stir with a wooden spoon or chopstick until the wax is completely melted. For a harder texture of solid perfume once it’s cooled, add equal parts oil and wax. In this case you would use 1 tablespoon of oil and 1 tablespoon of wax.

Step 5: Once the wax has liquified, add vitamin E if you want (puncture one softgel capsule, squeeze the liquid into the wax mixture, and combine), then take it off the heat.

Step 6: Quickly add 15-17 drops of your essential oil blend to the wax mixture and combine before it solidifies.

Step 7: Carefully pour your perfume into its container. The smaller the container, the faster it will cool and solidify. Try not to move or disturb the perfume in any way as it cools, so that it has a nice smooth finish. You can put the cap on it once it has cooled to room temperature, but place it somewhere it

GO VEGAN! To make vegan solid perfumes, use carnauba wax instead of beeswax. You can also experiment with substituting shea butter, but it will result in a softer product. Start with equal parts shea butter and liquid oil. Another option for making vegan solid perfume is coconut oil, which is a solid at room temperature. Melt it in a double boiler on low and when it is completely liquified, take it off the heat, pour into containers, and add the desired essential oils right away before the oil cools. Trying adding an equal amount of olive or jojoba oil to the melted coconut oil for a softer texture. Unrefined coconut oil has a tropical scent, but you can use refined coconut oil for a base with no scent.

can rest and continue to harden for at least 24 hours.

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67

Layering As mentioned earlier, natural perfumes dissipate more quickly than chemical fragrances, even if they are made highly concentrated. One way to extend the scent is to layer. In perfumery, this refers to using the same blend of scents in different forms. For example, you could rub yourself with perfume oil before getting dressed, then spray yourself with an alcohol-based perfume that uses the same blend of essential oils. Throughout the day you could apply a solid perfume of the same blended scent. This is a good way to get the most out of your personal blend and establish your own signature scent.

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HAVE FUN WITH LABELS! Draw on them or create a digital design to print. Self-adhesive address labels make for easy application, and other decorative labels can be found online or at craft stores. You can put a piece of clear packing tape over the top of labels to keep them dry. Include what the product is, the date it was made, and any special instructions, such as “refrigerate” or “shake before using.” The whole process of perfume making offers so many opportunities for your creativity to shine through.

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CHAPTER 4

All About the H erbs

Plant Magic In this chapter you'll learn how to make herbal extracts and herbal oils, and I'll share my favorite recipes for each. If essential oils aren’t your preference, you can also craft natural perfumes using only fresh or dried flowers or herbs and a base of oil or alcohol (also known as a tincture or extract). Perfumes made without essential oil will have a subtler aroma, but the benefits are still there. Look to your garden for inspiration! I love the classic scent of bay rum, which began as a simple herbal extract used by long-ago sailors as a cologne. They used what they had available and simply combined bay leaves with rum. You can also go the extra mile by combining essential oils with herbal oils or extracts to create a more multidimensional perfume with greater depth and benefits. Creating an herbal base for your perfume infuses the carrier with all the characteristics of the chosen herbs, not just the scent. Since the herbal base is already scented, you can use fewer drops of essential oils. This method really ups the ante on your scent crafting, and can elevate your handmade perfumes to a whole new level.

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Making Herbal Extracts CREATING AN HERBAL EXTRACT (prep time: 4 to 6 weeks) An alcohol base made with herbs is called an herbal extract (or tincture), and you can use any herb, spice, or flower. Fresh or dried herbs may be used, but I recommend using dried herbs. Vanilla beans, rose petals, lavender tops, rosemary branches, and bay leaves are popular for herbal extracts. You will need: •

Fresh or dried herbs of your choice

•

A glass jar with a lid

•

80-100 proof alcohol (enough to fill your jar)

•

A wooden chopstick or spoon

•

A piece of plastic wrap to keep metal jar lids from rusting (optional)

•

A mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth

•

A liquid measuring cup (optional)

•

A container for your finished extract

ADDING DRIED HERBS AND FLOWERS TO YOUR

Step 1: Gather the plants you wish to use. You’ll most likely be using the aerial parts of the plant that grow above ground (leaves, stems, flowers). • If you are using dried plants, fill a jar about halfway full. • If you are using fresh plants, fill your jar 3/4 full, since they won’t expand as much as the dried plants will when the alcohol is added. • If you happen to be using roots or bark, only fill the jar

PERFUME Add beauty to your finished perfume with a sprig of lavender or dried rosebuds. You can use fresh or dried herbs or flowers in an alcohol-based perfume, but be sure to only add dried materials to oil-based perfumes (where the water in fresh herbs can introduce bacteria or mold growth).

about 1/3 full to allow them to expand more.

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73

Step 2: Pour your alcohol of choice over the herbs and fill to almost the very top of the jar, making sure all the plant material is completely saturated by the liquid. Use a wooden chopstick or spoon to gently stir and push down any plant material that sticks out of the alcohol. If your jar has a metal lid, you can add a piece of plastic wrap over the mouth of the jar before screwing on the lid to avoid rust.

Step 3: Cap the jar tightly and turn it upside down a few times to mix. Let it sit in a cool, dark place for 4 to 6 weeks, gently shaking the jar every day the first week and then at least every other day for the remainder of the time.

Step 4: After 4 weeks (or up to 6, if you would like a stronger base), line a mesh strainer with cheesecloth and pour the herbs and extract through this double strainer. This is best done in a sink and can get messy, so some people opt to wear gloves. I like to strain the mixture into a Pyrex measuring cup, so I can easily pour the finished tincture into bottles. Make sure to squeeze the herbs into a ball with the cheesecloth and really wring out the alcohol from the herbs. The extract is now ready for use, and the squeezed herbs can be composted.

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Tips for Storing and Bottling Always label your extracts with what is in the jar, when it was started, and when it will be ready. Adding the end date to your calendar is helpful too, and if you need reminders to shake it up, then go ahead and add those as well. Once the extract has been strained and bottled, it is ready to be used as perfume or to have essential oils added to it. Don’t worry about the fact that the extract now has a color instead of being clear. When rubbed on the skin or sprayed on the body, the color doesn’t show up and I have never had a problem with it rubbing off on my clothes or furniture. Some spices, such as turmeric, do stain, however, so you can always test the extract on a small area if you’re concerned.

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My Favorite Herbal Extract Recipes BAY RUM (prep time: 4 to 6 weeks) Bay rum is a scent that is familiar, yet exotic and spicy. Sailors made this perfume to counter the stench of life on a long, watery voyage ending in a hot, humid, and very foreign land. They knew of bay laurel’s cleaning abilities and added the spices that were around them. This makes a

ADDING ESSENTIAL OILS TO BAY RUM Adding essential oils to bay rum makes an even richer scent. Personalize this any way that you like, but the woody essential oils are a good place to start with men’s perfumes.

great base for men’s perfumes or just add it to

•

1.75 oz. bay rum base

other scents for a hint of old-world manliness.

•

15 drops bay essential oil

•

12 drops lime essential oil

•

25 drops cedarwood essential oil

•

15 drops bergamot

•

30 drops vanilla extract

You will need:

• 1/2 cup bay leaves •

2 cinnamon sticks

•

4 cloves

•

1 sliced vanilla bean, chopped in half

•

1 cup rum

•

A large glass jar with a lid

•

A pen and label

Step 3:

•

A mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth

After the 4 to 6 weeks, strain the herbal extract

•

A liquid measuring cup (optional)

through a piece of cheesecloth over a mesh

•

A container for your finished extract

•

1 teaspoon vanilla extract (optional)

Step 1: Combine all the ingredients in a large glass jar and cap it tightly. Don’t forget to label the jar.

strainer into a wide mouth jar or a measuring cup. Be sure to squeeze all the remaining liquid out of the herbs, then compost the herbs.

Step 4: Add 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract, if desired. The bay rum is ready to be used at this point, so

Step 2:

bottle it and be sure to label the finished

Gently shake the ingredients daily or at least

product with what it is and the date. Use within

every other day for about 4 to 6 weeks.

a year for highest potency.

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VANILLA EXTRACT (prep time: 8+ weeks) This is the same vanilla extract that can be used in cooking, baking, and cocktail making, so even though this is a perfume base recipe, you can also use this in any way that you would use a storebought vanilla extract. It has no fillers, artificial fragrances, or artificial flavors! You will need: •

4 vanilla beans

•

A knife

•

8 oz. glass jar with a lid

Step 1:

Enough vodka (or other alcohol of choice to cover the vanilla and fill the jar

cut them in half or thirds to fit easily into the jar.

•

A pen and label

Label the jar with the contents and the date, and gently

•

A mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth

shake it by turning it upside down and right side up.

•

A container for your finished vanilla extract

Step 3:

•

Slice the vanilla beans down the middle long ways, then

Step 2: Fill the jar with your vanilla and alcohol, and cap tightly.

Gently shake the jar each day the first week, then at least every other day for the remainder of its extraction period, which will be 2 to 3 months. You can use it in 6 weeks, but the alcohol scent and flavor will still be detectable, so if

DID YOU KNOW?

you want pure vanilla goodness, patience is key.

Vanilla beans are the second most expensive spice (after saffron).

Step 4: Strain the vanilla and use it within 3 years for the most potent scent and flavor.

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H ydrosols and F lower Waters Hydrosols and flower waters can be added to any alcohol-based perfume and are an inexpensive way to add a light, faint scent. They’re also great for refreshing toners or body splashes because the fragrance is much more delicate than those of herbal extracts or essential oils. Hydrosols are made of the water from the steam that separates essential oils during the distilling process, so they carry a bit of the essence of the plant, along with some of its scent. You can purchase hydrosols online or at your local natural food store. Flower waters are made in a different way, using plants and distilled water, but they can be used in the same way as hydrosols. Making a flower water at home looks a lot like making tea. There is a hot method and a cold method.

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79

THE COLD METHOD FOR MAKING FLOWER WATER (prep time: overnight, or roughly 10 hours) You will need:

Step 1:

•

A glass or crystal bowl

Fill your clean glass or crystal bowl with distilled water.

•

2 to 6 parts distilled water

Step 2:

•

1 part flower tops of your choice

•

A mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth

•

A container (such as a jar or spray bottle) for your finished water

Place the flower tops you would like to use in the water and gently push them under the surface.

Step 3: Let the flower water sit overnight in a windowsill or even outside, and it will be ready for use in the morning. Think of it as making “moon tea” instead of sun tea.

Step 4: Strain the flower tops and store the water in the refrigerator for up to a year. If the water starts to get cloudy, discard it.

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THE HOT METHOD FOR MAKING FLOWER WATER (prep time: roughly 5-30 minutes)

Another way to make flower water is to

Step 1:

heat it for a quicker finished product.

Add the water and flowers to a saucepan.

You will need:

Step 2:

•

1 part dried or fresh flower tops

Cover, and gently warm the saucepan’s contents

•

2 to 6 parts distilled water

to a simmer, not a full boil. When the petals have

•

A saucepan (one made of glass is the best way to avoid any toxins leaking from the pan into your flower water)

• •

noticeably lost their vibrant color and the water has taken on the hue of the flowers, it’s time to strain the liquid.

A mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth

Step 3:

A container (such as a jar or spray bottle) for your finished water

strain your flower water so you can really squeeze

Use a piece of cheesecloth over a mesh strainer to the last of the water out of the flower tops.

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QUEEN OF HUNGARY’S WATER (prep time: 4 to 6 weeks) Another extract you can make as the base of a perfume or to use by itself is Queen of Hungary’s Water. This health and beauty recipe originated in the 1300s, though due to the many variations that have developed throughout the centuries it is more of a concept than an exact recipe. Queen of Hungary’s Water was first made with vinegar, which can be taken internally, used as a toner for the face, or as a rinse for hair. Another option is to make it with witch hazel, which makes it a great toner as well as a perfume base. This version takes “the more the merrier” approach, but feel free to leave out hard-to-find herbs or substitute your own personal favorites.

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You will need:

Step 1: Fill the jar half full of the dried herbs, then add alcohol or

•

8 oz. glass jar with a lid

•

4 oz. of dried herbs (I recommend combining rosemary, chamomile, lavender, rose petals, lemon balm, sage, calendula, comfrey, peppermint, lemon peels, and elder flowers)

witch hazel to almost the rim of the jar.

Alcohol or witch hazel (roughly 4 oz. or enough to cover the herbs completely and almost touch the rim of the jar)

every other day for 4 to 6 weeks.

•

A wooden chopstick or spoon for stirring

container. Be sure to squeeze the herbs in the cheesecloth

•

A mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth

is the most potent stuff and you don’t want to leave it behind!

•

A container for your finished product

•

Step 2: Stir the mixture with a wooden chopstick or spoon and push the herbs back down under the liquid, then cap the jar.

Step 3: Shake the jar gently every day for the first week, then at least

Step 4: Strain the liquid by pouring it through a mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth into a glass measuring cup or your final and really wring out all the liquid trapped in the herbs. That Compost the herbs. Use the mixture as a perfume by itself or add essential oils (5 to 25 drops of essential oils per teaspoon). If you’re using it as a toner, only use 1 drop of essential oil per teaspoon.

THE WATER OF YOUTH Legend has it that the Queen of Hungary’s alchemist made her this youth elixir when she was seventy years old to restore her health and beauty. It must have worked, because she married a nobleman twenty-five years her junior!

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MAKING EXTRACT WITH GLYCERIN (prep time: 4 to 6 weeks)

An additional ingredient that can

Step 1:

go into alcohol-based perfumes is

Fill the jar halfway with one or more types of

glycerin, which helps with

dried herbs. I like to use rose petals or lavender

hydration and adds an extra level

and calendula tops together.

of TLC to your custom herbal concoctions. The glycerin should make up less than 20% of the overall liquid content to help draw moisture into the skin and cancel out the drying effects of alcohol. You will need:

Step 2: Fill the jar, using equal amounts of distilled

water and glycerin. For example, pour 3/4 cup of

glycerin and 3/4 cup of distilled water over the

herbs. This is not a hard and fast rule though, so if you have more glycerin or distilled water that you want to use, don’t worry about trying to be exact. Some recipes call for more of one or the

•

A glass jar with a lid

•

The herb or herbs of your choice

•

Glycerin

•

Distilled water

Push the herbs under the liquid with a wooden

•

A wooden spoon or chopstick for stirring

it gently to mix. Be sure to label the jar with the

•

A pen and label

•

A mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth

Step 4:

A container for storing your finished product.

then at least every other day for the next 4 to 6

•

other, and either way the herbs infuse nicely into the glycerin.

Step 3: chopstick or spoon, cap the jar tightly, then shake contents and the date.

Gently shake the jar every day for the first week, weeks and keep it out of heat and light.

Step 5: After 4 or more weeks, strain the contents through a piece of cheesecloth over a mesh strainer and be sure to squeeze all the liquid out of the herbs by wringing them out in the cheesecloth. Use right away or store for up to a year away from heat and light.

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Making M Mak Ma aki aki ak kin ing ng He H Herbal erb er rba rba bal Oi bal OOils Oil ils ils il l THE FOLK METHOD FOR HERBAL OILS (prep time: 4 to 6 weeks) There are two traditional ways to make an herbal oil, which infuses fresh or dried herbs into an oil base for a richer perfume. The first method is referred to as The Folk Method (also called The Cold Method or The Solar Method). This process uses no artificial heat and needs to be kept in a warm, preferably sunny, place. The Folk Method is considered the best way to preserve all the healing properties of an herb. If you are not pressed for time, using The Folk Method is the simplest process with the fewest opportunities for damaging the beneficial attributes of the herbs and oil. Much like making an herbal extract, The Folk Method for creating an herbal oil takes time for the herbs to steep. However, instead of keeping it in a cool, dark location, for this method you place the oil on your windowsill or somewhere the sun streams in. You will need: •

Dried herbs of your choice

•

A knife or rolling pin

•

A clear glass jar with a lid (pick a jar size that will hold the amount of oil you want to make because you’ll be filling the jar almost to the brim with oil)

•

Enough carrier oil of your choice to fill your jar

•

A wooden spoon or chopstick for stirring

•

A pen and label

•

A mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth

•

A glass measuring cup (optional)

•

A bottle for your finished product

Step 1: Gather the herbs you wish to use. I recommend using dried herbs with oil-based perfumes, as the water in fresh herbs can introduce bacteria or mold to the mixture. If you need to use fresh herbs, it is best to dry them for at least 24 hours before infusing in order to evaporate some of the water. Crushing or bruising your herbs will help them start releasing their properties and fragrance into the oil and will make your herbal oil more potent. To do this, lay the herbs on a cutting board and press them with the flat blade of a large knife (or even under a rolling pin), then alternate cutting and smashing them.

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Step 2: Fill your jar about half full of the herbs, after cutting and bruising them as needed.

Step 3: Next, fill the jar almost all the way to the top with a carrier oil, such as olive, sweet almond, jojoba, or grapeseed oil. With a wooden chopstick or spoon, push the herbs that float to the top back down under the oil so that they are completely covered. As long as they are thoroughly coated in the oil, they will be fine, so don’t worry if they pop above the surface of the oil.

Step 4: Cap the jar tightly, adding a piece of plastic wrap over the mouth of the jar if using a metal top to avoid rust (optional). Label the jar with its contents, the date, and the date it should be strained (4 to 6 weeks from now).

Step 5: Turn the jar upside down and right side up a few times, then place it in a sunny spot for the next 4 to 6 weeks. Be sure to gently shake the mixture and turn it over and back every day for the first week, and then at least every other day for the rest of the time. Your herbal oil will be ready after 4 weeks, but you can continue to steep it over the next couple weeks if you want a stronger end product.

Step 6: To strain your herbal oil, place a piece of cheesecloth over a metal strainer sitting on a wide mouth jar or a large measuring cup. I like to use a 4-cup Pyrex measuring cup so there is plenty of room for the oil and a pouring spout to use when I pour the finished oil into smaller bottles for storage, but really any vessel will work. Pour the oil through the double layered strainer, then gather up the herbs into the cheesecloth and really squeeze out the oil. This is potent herbal goodness and not to be missed. It could take a few times to get all the oil out properly, with some herbs being squeezed out and then composted, then more straining happening, so just work with however much you have and enjoy the smell and feel of the oil you made.

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Tips for Storing and Bottling Your Herbal Oil Herbal oil will stay fresh for around six months, but storing it in a cool, dark place or refrigerating it can help it last up to a year. You can also add vitamin E as a natural preservative to extend its life. You’ll be able to tell it has gone bad if it turns cloudy or the scent noticeably changes (oils naturally get cloudy in the refrigerator, so bring it to room temperature if you’re checking for cloudiness).

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BREWED BY THE MOON In the old days, The Folk Method was often timed according to moon cycles. If you started an herbal concoction on the date of the new moon (which was generally considered good luck), then having it cure for four weeks would mean it was finished on another new moon. If it was ready in six weeks, on a full moon, that was generally considered better luck and a better product. It would indeed be a more potent product, as the extra time gives the herbs more time to release their attributes.

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My Favorite Folk Method Recipe LAVENDER OIL (prep time: 4 to 6 weeks) You will need: •

A glass jar with a lid

•

Dried lavender tops (enough to fill half the jar)

•

Enough carrier oil to fill the jar (I like olive, jojoba, sweet almond, or grapeseed)

•

A wooden spoon or chopstick for stirring

•

A pen and label

•

A mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth

•

A liquid measuring cup (optional)

•

A container for your finished product

Step 1: Fill the glass jar halfway with dried lavender tops. Fill the rest of the jar with an oil. Push the floating herbs back under the oil with a wooden chopstick or spoon, making sure they are fully covered by the oil.

Step 2: Cap the jar tightly, label it with the contents and the date, and turn it over a few times to mix. Put the jar in a sunny window and gently shake it daily for the first week, then at least every other day for the remainder of the time.

Step 3: After 4 to 6 weeks, strain the contents of the jar into cheesecloth over a mesh strainer, capturing the liquid in a wide jar or measuring cup. Be sure to squeeze the herbs in the cheesecloth to get all the oil into the jar because you don’t want to miss out on that most potent oil. Bottle your oil and store it in a cool, dry place for up to a year.

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THE QUICK METHOD FOR HERBAL OILS (prep time: 1+ hours) Like its name suggests, The Quick

Step 1:

Method for herbal oil infusion doesn’t

Fill the bottom of a double boiler with water and

require weeks to complete, since it

place your herb or herbs into the top of the

uses heat to speed up the process.

double boiler.

Because of this, it is also called The Hot Method. You will need: •

A double boiler (if you don’t have a double boiler you can use a glass measuring cup in a pot of water like I do)

•

Dried herbs of your choice

•

Enough carrier oil to cover your herbs with an extra inch of oil (olive oil or jojoba oil are what I use)

•

A wooden spoon or chopstick for stirring

•

A mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth

•

A bottle for your finished product

Step 2: Add the oil of your choice, fully covering your herbs plus ½ an inch of oil beyond the tops of your herbs.

Step 3: Put the double boiler on the stove on low heat, with the water in the bottom of the double boiler and herbs and oil in the top. Stir the mixture occasionally to make sure the herbs aren’t sticking out of the oil. After 1 or 2 hours, the oil will take on some of the color and fragrance of the herbs. Some recipes keep the oil on low heat for up to 48 hours, so don’t worry about letting it sit on the stove for too long. Just make sure the temperature is on low, and don't let the water in your double boiler evaporate.

Step 4: Take your mixture off the heat and let it cool before straining and bottling it according to the instructions under The Folk Method.

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My Favorite Quick Method Recipe VANILLA AND ROSE OIL (prep time: 1+ hour)

You will need:

Step 1: Prepare 3 vanilla beans by cutting them long-ways

•

3 vanilla bean stalks

•

Knife

•

1 cup rose petals

Step 2:

•

Rolling pin

Smash about a cup of rose petals with the wide blade of

•

Double boiler

•

Carrier oil of choice (enough to cover your rose and vanilla, plus

an extra 1/2 inch of oil)

down the middle, then chopping them into quarters.

a knife or roll over them with a rolling pin a few times.

Step 3: Put the rose petals and vanilla beans into the top of double boiler and cover with the oil of your choice. You will want enough oil to cover the herbs completely, plus

•

A wooden spoon or chopstick for stirring

an extra ½ inch on top.

•

A mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth

The water in the bottom of the double boiler should be

•

A bottle for your finished product

•

Vitamin E as a preservative (optional)

Step 4: warm, nearly simmering at the hottest (but definitely not boiling). Stir occasionally. It will take at least an hour before the oil starts to take on some of the color and scent of the herbs, but the longer it sits on the heat, the better. Just don’t let the water in your double boiler get too hot or evaporate.

Step 5: Once the mixture has been taken off the heat and cooled to room temperature, strain it through a cheesecloth (squeezing out all the oil). If you wish, you can add vitamin E as a natural preservative. The oil is ready to be used right away, or you can store it in a cool, dark place for up to a year.

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CHAPTER 5

Exploring Perfumes with Energy

Chakra Perfumes Perfumes are not only about scent! Adding crystals based on the yogic philosophy of chakras (specific energy spots on the body, as seen below) to your perfume can complement the properties of essential oils and enhance the wow factor in bottling and presentation. Some crystals and their traditional attributes are: Amethyst for healing

Black tourmaline for protection

Rose quartz for love

Blue lace agate for anxiety

Citrine for joy

Fluorite for deep relaxation

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MAKING CHAKRA PERFUMES Chakras are energy portals found along the median line of our bodies. There are seven generally recognized chakras that are associated with different aspects of life. You will need: •

A small glass bottle (repurposed essential oil bottles are great for this)

•

A carrier oil

•

Your essential oils of choice

•

A stone or crystal

Fill your container 80-90% full of your carrier oil, then add 4 to 6 drops of your essential oil and a small stone or crystal. I’ve suggested some pairings of stones and essential oils that correspond to the seven chakras, but follow your intuition and have fun with your combinations.

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ROOT CHAKRA The root chakra is found at the sacrum, located on your lower back between your hip bones. It corresponds with basic needs, such as food, shelter, and financial security, as well as how rooted and grounded we feel. Oils: 3 drops frankincense and 3 drops cedarwood. Or 2 drops cinnamon and 4 drops ylang ylang. Stones: red garnet, bloodstone, or obsidian.

SACRAL CHAKRA

SOLAR PLEXUS

This chakra is located about two inches

Two inches above the belly

below the belly button and is associated

button is where the solar plexus

with sexual function, thoughts and

can be found, and it is associated

emotions around being a sexual being, and

with reputation and sense of self,

general health of the reproductive organs,

as well as digestive health.

bladder, and kidneys. Oils: 2 drops each of frankinOils: 2 drops each of jasmine absolute,

cense, rosemary, and basil. Or 3

bergamot, and sandalwood. Or 3 drops each

drops each of rosemary and sweet

of lemongrass and neroli absolute.

orange.

Stones: jasper, red tiger’s eye, or aragonite.

Stones: citrine, amber, or topaz.

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HEART CHAKRA

THROAT CHAKRA

The fourth chakra is the heart chakra,

The fifth chakra is the throat chakra,

which (of course) is associated with

which is associated with communication

love. It corresponds to love of self as

and speaking your truth. The overall

well as love for others, heart health,

health of the throat and mouth are

and circulation.

governed by this chakra as well.

Oils: 2 drops each of rose absolute,

Oils: 2 drops each of jasmine absolute,

neroli absolute, and geranium. Or 3

clary sage, and sandalwood. Or 2 drops

drops of lavender and 1 drop of rose.

each of peppermint, eucalyptus, and

Stones: rose quartz, emerald, green

geranium.

jade, or tourmaline.

Stones: lapis lazuli, turquoise, or azurite.

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THIRD EYE CHAKRA

CROWN CHAKRA

The sixth chakra is the third eye

The seventh chakra is the crown chakra,

and has to do with intuition and

found at the crown of the head and

seeing clearly. It naturally has to do

associated with the spiritual world,

with eyesight and overall health in

ourselves as spiritual beings, and our

the eye area too.

connection to the spirit realm.

Oils: 5 drops of lavender. Or 3 drops

Oils: 2 drops each of frankincense, ylang

of patchouli and 3 drops of frankin-

ylang, and clary sage. Or 3 drops of

cense.

jasmine absolute and 3 drops of lavender.

Stones: lapis lazuli, sodalite, or

Stones: amethyst, clear quartz, diamond,

azurite.

or selenite.

APPLICATION TIPS! Before meditation or yoga, I rub one or two drops of perfume in a circular, clockwise motion over each chakra point. For extra intensity, lie down, cover the chakra with a corresponding crystal, and breathe deeply for ten minutes. This is a great opportunity to meditate and envision deep healing and manifestations. I like to make the complete set of chakra oils for times when I feel “off” and require a complete realignment. Chakra oil application always seems to do just that, while also clearing and focusing my mind.

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[IMAGE]

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CHAPTER 6

Sample Perfume Blends

Blends for Every Mood Here are a few more of my favorite scent “recipes” that incorporate most of the materials, methods, and techniques you’ve learned in this book. I hope they serve as jumping-off points to experiment and customize. The measurements are ideal for making the blends in a 2 oz. dark glass bottle (such as a repurposed essential oil bottle), but of course you can adjust the measurements to the volume you wish to make. Happy perfuming!

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APHRODISIAC For this aphrodisiac blend, I like to use nutmeg in the fall and winter and jasmine in the spring and summer. I omit the rose when I use the jasmine, but there is no reason to do so if you like a strong floral scent. I tend to wear heavily base-y scents and just a touch of top note to keep it balanced. Keep in mind you can use absolutes of rose and/or jasmine instead of essential oils for a more affordable option, in which case you will want more drops than just the one. Start small and build up to the scent you like best. •

1.75 oz. vanilla, rose, or a combination of the two scents for the base. For an alcohol-based perfume, use vanilla extract, rose extract, or the two combined. For an oil-based perfume, use vanilla oil, rose oil, or the two combined

•

1 drop of rose essential oil or 1 drop of jasmine essential oil

•

75 drops vanilla absolute for oil-based perfumes or 75 drops vanilla extract for alcohol-based perfumes (only add if you don’t already have vanilla in your base)

•

5 drops nutmeg essential oil

•

25 drops sandalwood essential oil

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WEIGHT MANAGEMENT Both orange and grapefruit are great scents for shedding unwanted pounds because they offer happy energy. Additionally, the smell of orange can help satisfy sweet cravings because of the connection between the senses of smell and taste. You’ll also find fennel here, which helps signal to the brain that the belly is full. •

1.75 oz. of alcohol or oil base (can be any herbal extract or oil, but lavender works nicely)

•

60 drops fennel essential oil

•

60 drops sweet orange or grapefruit essential oil

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RELAXATION Neroli is an age-old anti-anxiety flower and scent, once used in bridal bouquets to ease nerves. Lavender is of course known for its relaxation properties and makes a great bedtime perfume on its own. Cedarwood is grounding, and vanilla is also relaxing, so the combination of all these scents makes a great blend for days or nights when you need to stay calm. It’s also just a lovely scent to wear when you go out after work to relax and readjust the mind to a calm state. •

1.75 oz. vanilla extract or vanilla oil for your base

•

50 drops lavender essential oil

•

25 drops cedarwood essential oil

•

5 drops neroli essential oil (or 25 drops neroli absolute. Note that absolutes can be used in an oil base but not in an alcohol base)

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ANTIDEPRESSANT For occasional blue days, especially in the wintertime when the sun won’t shine, this blend is a lovely pick-me-up. •

1.75 oz. of an alcohol or base oil (any herbal extract or oil would work well, but I recommend rose oil or extract for sadness or grief, and lavender oil or extract for anxiety)

•

50 drops bergamot essential oil

•

30 drops clary sage essential oil

•

20 drops frankincense essential oil

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CLEANSING Herbs and essential oils have a long history of use in spiritual rituals and religious ceremonies. Sandalwood, frankincense, sage, and palo santo are all still regularly used today for their cleansing attributes and to evoke sacred space. Lavender acts as a blending agent to meld the scents together, but can be omitted if you prefer. •

1.75 oz. alcohol or oil (any herbal extract or oil can be used)

•

20 drops frankincense essential oil

•

30 drops sandalwood essential oil

•

2 drops palo santo essential oil

•

40 drops lavender essential oil

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ILLNESS PREVENTION There are many variations of essential oil blends based on a medieval tale of thieves during plague times. The general idea is that four or five thieves robbed the houses or graves of those who had died from the plague and the thieves managed not to fall ill. Once caught, they were offered a lighter sentence if they explained how they avoided the plague. The thieves turned out to be spice traders and perfumers who knew how to use the herbs in their trades to effectively ward off the disease. Most likely they were using a vinegar blend because that was the custom of the time. Nowadays there are essential oil blends that pay homage to those rascals with blends with names like Thieves, Bandits, or Medieval. Most use the essential oils below in some variation, with their own special twists. •

1.75 oz. alcohol or oil base (any herbal oil or extract can be the base, but Queen of Hungary’s Water works especially well [see page 82 for recipe])

•

40 drops rosemary essential oil

•

30 drops thyme essential oil

•

15 drops cinnamon leaf essential oil

•

10 drops tea tree essential oil

•

5 drops eucalyptus essential oil

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BRAIN POWER BOOSTER Rosemary and orange combine in this confidence-building and brain-enhancing blend. It makes a powerful blend not only for acing tests, but also for interviews and difficult one-on-one meetings. •

1.75 oz. alcohol or oil base (I suggest rosemary or vanilla, but any herbal oil or extract can be used)

•

45 drops rosemary essential oil

•

35 drops sweet orange essential oil

•

10 drops peppermint essential oil

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DIGESTIVE AID Some essential oils are so evocative of food that they get forgotten when thinking in terms of perfume. Cardamom and fennel are two that make great scents and can be worn alone or in combinations to pleasing effects. Don’t be afraid to experiment with scents that aren’t the traditional lavenders and roses of the perfume world. •

1.75 oz. alcohol or oil base (vanilla extract or oil would make a lovely base to this combination)

•

50 drops fennel essential oil

•

40 drops lavender essential oil

•

5 drops cardamom essential oil (cardamom tends to take over blends, so start small and add more if you like)

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HEADACHE BALM This balm can travel with you in a small tin or in a lip balm push-up container. Rub the balm on your temples and under your hairline along the back of your head. •

1 tablespoon oil, such as olive, jojoba, grapeseed, or sweet almond oil

•

2 teaspoons beeswax

•

5 drops lavender essential oil

•

5 drops peppermint essential oil

•

2 drops rosemary essential oil

Warm the beeswax and oil in a double boiler until all the beeswax has melted. Take it off the stove and add the essential oils, then pour the mixture into the final container to harden. (For detailed instructions on making solid perfume, see page 66.)

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Scent Profiles Here are some sample blends you can use for that specific floral, citrus, or woodsy smell.

FLORAL BLEND Floral scents are classics. Substitute or add any florals you like here, such as neroli, geranium, or rose. If you’re using absolutes instead of essential oils, remember to use them only in the oil-based perfumes, not the alcohol-based ones. •

1.75 alcohol or oil base (I recommend rose or lavender extract or oil, or a combination of the two. You can also use a vanilla base to ground and contrast the floral essential oils)

•

50 drops ylang ylang essential oil

•

1 drop jasmine essential oil (or 15 drops jasmine absolute)

•

50 drops lavender essential oil

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CITRUS BLEND No other scents evoke sunshine as much as citrus scents do. It’s hard to be glum when surrounded by the uplifting power of the many citrus varieties. Vanilla pairs really well with sweet orange and bergamot, and sandalwood rounds out the scent. You can use any citruses you like best, such as grapefruit and lemon instead of the orange and bergamot. Don’t forget that citrus essential oils increase photosensitivity, so be extra mindful of sun exposure. •

1.75 oz. of alcohol or oil base (my favorite base for this blend is vanilla)

•

50 drops sweet orange essential oil

•

50 drops bergamot essential oil

•

10 drops sandalwood essential oil

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WOODS BLEND There are many wood essential oils, such as juniper, fir, pine, and palo santo, which can evoke memories of walking through a forest. This recipe calls for my two favorites, cedarwood and sandalwood, but feel free to substitute other scents instead. •

1.75 oz. alcohol or oil base (I recommend a vanilla base. To emphasize the woodiness even more, try a palo santo extract or oil base. Palo santo can be very strong so only use half palo santo base, with plain oil or alcohol making up the rest of the base)

•

40 drops cedarwood essential oil

•

40 drops sandalwood essential oil

•

10 drops clary sage essential oil

•

25 drops bergamot essential oil

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A L ast Word Making your own natural perfumes opens a doorway to creativity, health, and engaging with nature. The joy and satisfaction of making your own custom, small-batch, signature scents for yourself and your loved ones is a rare luxury in our fast-paced modern world. The art and craft of natural herbal perfume making is therapeutic as you engage with the healing ingredients, reaping benefits for your mind, body, and spirit. Natural perfume also offers unique self-care, empowering you to connect with yourself in a loving, healing way and to focus on optimal health. Once you start crafting your own perfume, you begin to experience the natural world in a more engaged, aesthetic, and respectful way. Touching, inhaling, and working with plants in their fresh and dried forms is such a treat and aligns you with values of sustainability. Perfumes are magical; they can transport you through moods and memories as no other medium can, and making them is an alchemical, artistic craft that anyone can experience. I truly hope you enjoy natural perfume making as much as I do, and that it enlightens and beautifies your life in a bouquet of healthy ways.

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A Last Word

123

WHERE TO BUY SUPPLIES Absolutes Absolutes can be found wherever you buy essential oils (such as vitamin and supplement shops and natural food stores). Beeswax and Carnauba Wax Look for beeswax and carnauba wax at craft stores, candle making stores, D.I.Y. body care supplies stores, or natural food stores. Essential Oils Most vitamin and supplement shops have essential oils, as do natural food stores. They can sometimes be found in gift stores, craft stores, spas, or other places, but be aware that different products (like absolutes or fragrance oils) can be packaged to look exactly like essential oils—so read the packaging carefully or stick with a reliable brand. There are several multilevel marketing companies out there that sell essential oils and other ingredients. I don’t endorse any at this time, due to some common practices in the industry that promote over-use of these highly concentrated and precious essential oils and a lack of eco-awareness (including questionable harvesting practices and importing endangered plants). Hydrosols Hydrosols are a little harder to find than essential oils, but natural food stores usually have a few types on hand. Some smaller vitamins and supplement shops might carry them as well.

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WEBSITES

ADDITIONAL READING

Aura Cacia for essential oils,

de Baïracli Levy, Juliette. A Gypsy in New

carrier oils, butters, hydrosols,

York. Woodstock: Ash Tree

and containers.

Publishing, 2011.

auracacia.com Essential Oils Natural Remedies: The Frontier Co-op for dried

Complete A-Z Reference of Essential

herbs, carrier oils, beeswax,

Oils for Health and Healing. Berkeley:

and containers.

Althea Press, 2015.

frontiercoop.com Gladstar, Rosemary. Herbal Healing for Mountain Rose Herbs for

Women: Simple Home Remedies for

essential oils, dried herbs,

Women of All Ages. New York: Simon

carrier oils, waxes, butters,

& Schuster, 1993.

and hydrosols. mountainroseherbs.com

Grigore, Adina. Just the Essentials: How Essential Oils Can Heal Your Skin,

Specialty Bottles for every size

Improve Your Health, and Detox Your

and shape of container in a

Life. New York: Harper Wave, 2017.

variety of materials and with various top options.

Tourles, Stephanie. Stephanie Tourles’s

specialtybottle.com

Essential Oils: A Beginner’s Guide. North Adams: Storey, 2018. Van Doren, Yulia. Crystals: The Modern Guide to Crystal Healing. London: Quadrille Publishing, 2018. Worwood, Valerie Ann. The Complete Book of Essential Oils and Aromatherapy. Novato: New World Library, 2016.

Websites and Additional Reading

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GLOSSARY

Absolute: Absolutes are formed by extracting essential oils with a solvent. Added to an oil, such as jojoba, absolutes are less potent and more affordable than essential oils (though they have similar properties). They can be added to oil-based perfumes or used directly on the skin, due to the fact they are already diluted with the oil carrier. Adaptogen: An herb or essential oil that helps the user adapt to mental, physical, emotional, or environmental stress. Base Note: In perfume making, the base note refers to the scent that is the last to be detected and lingers the longest, after the top and middle notes have faded. Carrier Oil or Base Oil: These are oils from nuts, seeds, fruits, and vegetables that carry the essential oils onto and into the skin. They make up the base of oil perfumes and herbal oils. Some of the most widely used oils in natural perfumery are olive, grapeseed, sweet almond, apricot kernel, jojoba, avocado, and fractionated (liquid) coconut oil. Essential Oil: Created by steam distillation or pressing plants, essential oils maintain the characteristic of the plant concentrated in liquid form. Flower Water: Flower water has a light floral scent and is made by infusing distilled water with flower tops and letting them sit overnight or warming them together on a stovetop. Folk Method: This way of making herbal crafts is closest to how our ancestors made the same products. While folk methods usually take longer than the methods developed in modern times, they are the best way to ensure the herbs’ qualities stay intact.

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Fragrance: A synthetically produced substance used in products to provide a pleasant scent. Fragrances are often made to mimic a plant’s scent, but do not have the same effects on the brain and body as natural scents. Herbal Oil: An oil made by infusing a base oil with herbs and letting it sit for four to six weeks, or by warming them together on the stove or in an oven. Hydrosol: Hydrosols are a byproduct of making essential oils through steam distillation. When the steam lifts the essentials out of the plant material, it separates the essential oil into one container and the steam re-liquifies in another container. This re-liquified steam is the hydrosol. Hydrosols carry some of the constituents and scents of the essential oils but are far less potent. Limbic System: The system in the brain involved in emotions, memories, and pleasure. It is the part of the brain directly affected by scents. Middle Note: The middle note is the second part of the overall scent that the nose picks up, and is considered the body of the perfume. Quick Method: When making an herbal oil, The Quick Method can be used to speed up the process. It entails applying low to medium heat to the oil and herb mixture so that the oil extracts the herbal qualities within hours, instead of weeks. Top Note: The top note is the first part of a scent that is detectable. As the first impression, it sets the tone for the scent experience.

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127

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Kristen Schuhmann is an herbalist, writer, and educator with more than twenty-five years of experience studying herbs. She lives in the greater Seattle, Washington area with her two sons and Australian Shepherd. Connect with Kristen at botanicalalchemyandapothecary.com.

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