A Practical Guide to Camping. 9781399014342, 9781399014359, 1399014358

Table of contents :
Cover
Book Title
Copyright
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
THE ESSENTIAL SCHECKLIST
HOW TO CHOOSE A SITE
TENTS AND SHELTERS
SLEEP SYSTEMS
COOKING AND EATING
CAR CAMPING
FAMILY CAMPING
BACKPACKING 7
WILD CAMPING
BIKE CAMPING
BOAT AND BOARD CAMPING
USEFUL CONTACTS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
INDEX
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
BACK COVER

Citation preview

A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO

CAMPING

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A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO

CAMPING S U Z A N N E E L S W O RT H A N D A L E X M O R G A N T E C H N I C A L E D I TO R : T R E VO R M O R G A N

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F­ irst published in Great Britain in 2022 by White Owl An imprint of Pen & Sword Books Ltd Yorkshire - Philadelphia Copyright © Suzanne Elsworth, Alex Morgan and Trevor Morgan, 2022 ISBN 978 1 39901 434 2 The right of Suzanne Elsworth, Alex Morgan and Trevor Morgan to be identified as authors of this work has been asserted by them in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission from the Publisher in writing. Printed and bound by Short Run Press Limited, Exeter. Design: SJmagic DESIGN SERVICES, India. Pen & Sword Books Ltd incorporates the imprints of Pen & Sword Books Archaeology, Atlas, Aviation, Battleground, Discovery, Family History, History, Maritime, Military, Naval, Politics, Railways, Select, Transport, True Crime, Fiction, Frontline Books, Leo Cooper, Praetorian Press, Seaforth Publishing, Wharncliffe and White Owl. For a complete list of Pen & Sword titles please contact PEN & SWORD BOOKS LIMITED 47 Church Street, Barnsley, South Yorkshire, S70 2AS, England E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.pen-and-sword.co.uk Or PEN AND SWORD BOOKS 1950 Lawrence Rd, Havertown, PA 19083, USA E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.penandswordbooks.com

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CONTENTS INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 THE ESSENTIALS CHECKLIST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 CHAPTER 1 HOW TO CHOOSE A SITE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 CHAPTER 2 TENTS AND SHELTERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 CHAPTER 3 SLEEP SYSTEMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 CHAPTER 4 COOKING AND EATING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 CHAPTER 5 CAR CAMPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 CHAPTER 6 FAMILY CAMPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 CHAPTER 7 BACKPACKING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 CHAPTER 8 WILD CAMPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 CHAPTER 9 BIKE CAMPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 CHAPTER 10 BOAT AND BOARD CAMPING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 USEFUL CONTACTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 PICTURE ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS . . . . . . . . . . 144 INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 ABOUT THE AUTHORS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148

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INTRODUCTION From comfort camping to backpacking bliss, this book aims to inspire anyone who has never spent a night under canvas, as well as those of you who want to take your outdoor experiences to the next level. It will enable you to decide what kind of camper you are, or what sort of camper you want to be. Whatever your idea of camping heaven – and the camping hell you want to avoid at all costs – we will equip you with the knowledge and confidence to create your perfect getaways.

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INTRODUCTION | 7

The form they take is entirely up to you: isolation and tranquillity, lively socialising, or an escape for some family fun with a cost-effective holiday at home or abroad. Every chapter includes expert tips and the key things you need to consider, alongside cheap hacks to stop you spending loads of money, and luxury options if you want to splash out on the best equipment or gadgets. The brands we mention are ones we like, but plenty of others are available, and the prices we quote were correct at the time of going to press. Camping can be the most wonderful adventure you will ever have – all it takes is a little preparation! Suzanne, Alex and Trevor

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INTRODUCTION | 9

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THE ESSENTIALS CHECKLIST | 11

THE ESSENTIALS CHECKLIST Don’t leave home without 9 Tent inner and outer, poles, pegs and guy lines, or another shelter, plus pump if you have an air tent 9 Groundsheet 9 Stove, pot or pan, fuel and lighter 9 Torch and spare batteries 9 Waterproof clothing, appropriate footwear and extra layers 9 A source of water, filter if necessary, and bottles or bladder 9 Food and something to eat and drink out of 9 Sleeping bag or bedding 9 Sleep mat or airbed 9 Basic toiletries and a towel 9 First-aid kit – see page 12 9 Essential medication 9 Money and bank cards 9 Phone and mains charger or power bank 9 Bags for rubbish, wet and dry kit

Add these depending on your type of camping, season and location 9 Pillow 9 Hot water bottle 9 Chairs 9 Table 9 Cool box 9 Flask 9 Picnic rug or blanket 9 Washing-up bowl, liquid and cloths 9 Strong cord and clothes pegs

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9 Dustpan and brush 9 Binbags 9 Kitchen roll 9 Headphones 9 Playing cards 9 Something to read 9 Children’s toys and games 9 Earplugs 9 Insect repellent – spray, midge coils or specialist clothing 9 Sunscreen 9 Rucksack 9 Barbecue, fuel and utensils 9 Poo kit – loo paper, bags, sanitiser and digging implement (see page 115) 9 Foil emergency blanket – available from chemists and outdoor shops

Clothes 9 Undies and socks 9 Tops 9 Trousers/skirts 9 Warm layers 9 Sleepwear 9 Hat, neckwarmer, gloves 9 Sunglasses 9 Wellies and/or flipflops

The first-aid kit 9 Waterproof plasters in various sizes 9 Compeed blister plasters 9 Tick removal card with magnifying area 9 Small mirror to check yourself for ticks 9 Alcohol cleansing wipes 9 Mini antiseptic spray or cream 9 Mini insect bite and sting relief spray 9 Antihistamine tablets 9 Painkillers 9 Small butterfly sutures 9 Gauze wound dressing 9 Thin surgical gloves

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THE ESSENTIALS CHECKLIST | 13

Additional cooking equipment 9 Plates, bowls, cups, cutlery, plastic glasses 9 Bottle and tin openers

Basic food and drink 9 Tea and coffee 9 Cooking oil 9 Condiments 9 Snacks

Dogs 9 Food and bowls 9 Something to sleep on 9 Lead 9 Poo bags 9 Tethering spike

How to stay out of trouble Preparation

9 Have you seen the latest weather report? 9 Have you left details of your route and/or destination with someone reliable, including an estimated return time? 9 Have you locked your car?

Equipment

9 Have you packed a headtorch and spare batteries in case you end up walking in the dark? 9 Is your equipment appropriate for the expected weather conditions – sunshine, rain or cold? 9 If you are hiking, do you have a map and compass and know how to use them? 9 If you are cycling or paddling, have you got suitable lights if there are unforeseen hold ups? 9 What about a whistle to attract attention in an emergency?

Skills

9 Is the route you have planned within your capabilities in terms of fitness and navigational skills?

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9 Have you planned suitable escape routes or low-level alternatives in case of bad weather? 9 Do not rely on a GPS or your phone – they can be great navigational aids, but what happens if the battery fails or you lose the GPS signal? 9 If you are lost, can you retrace your steps to your last known location? 9 Have you got basic first-aid skills and the kit to deal with cuts, blisters, bites and stings?

In an emergency 9 If you need emergency help and have a phone signal, call 999 – if you are out in the wilds, ask for Mountain Rescue. 9 If you have a poor signal or even none at all, you may still be able to dial or text 999. (To text, you must register your phone by texting ‘register’ to 999 before your trip.) If this doesn’t work, move to get a signal, or someone will need to make their way to the nearest phone box or house. 9 If alone, use your whistle – blow six even blasts, repeating every minute until you get a response. Keep blowing until help arrives. 9 Make a note of the casualty’s location, using a six-digit Ordnance Survey grid reference, and give a verbal description of your location too, noting landmarks. 9 Install the OS Locate and what3words apps on your phone so you can get references to check against where you think you are. 9 Once you have made the call, stay by the phone in case the rescue team needs more information. 9 Don’t phone other people – preserve your battery and allow the rescue team to contact you. 9 If you are with the casualty, your first priority is to make them safe and warm – if you don’t have access to a tent or sleeping bag, can you cocoon them with coats, or do you have an emergency foil blanket or storm shelter? 9 Can you treat any injuries while you wait for the emergency services to arrive? 9 If one person is cold and wet, it is likely that others will be as well – have you thought about the rest of your party? 9 Follow the advice from the rescue experts on what to do next, and do not deviate from their instructions.

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HOW TO CHOOSE A SITE | 15

HOW TO CHOOSE A SITE Choosing the wrong place to camp can put you off camping for life. Fact. Everyone has a story to tell: the childless-by-choice couple who found themselves next to a huge feral family, the folks seeking solitude and starlit nights whose neighbours brought a smoky campfire and a sound system, the happy campers invaded by boy

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racers evicted from another site, the friendly people who pitched next to an overly antisocial pair who couldn’t wait to report them to the management, the solo camper who headed into the wilderness only to discover they were afraid of the dark and what they really wanted was congenial company.

Camping under the stars can be a joyous experience – if you choose the right site for you.

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Adults only? Do not assume that pets, children and large groups of people are welcome. Some sites are only for single adults and couples. Check carefully before you set out.

The thing about camping is it exposes everyone’s differences. Unlike in a hotel or holiday cottage – unless you go down the wild camping route (see pages 105 to 117) – you can’t shut the world out. There is no soundproofing or double glazing in a tent.

Who is coming? Let us assume, for now, that you are planning to head for an official campsite. Consider who you are going camping with. Can you all amuse yourselves with chat, books and games, or do you need more structured activities

and facilities? Do you have children and what will they want to do all day? Is your four-legged family member coming along too? Do you crave peace or the hustle and bustle of a big, busy place?

What is the plan? How active are you all? Do you want walks from the door, cycle routes all around, watersports, horseriding, running trails and more? Or would you rather take an amble around a stately home or museum, or explore the local towns and villages? Do you plan to drive everywhere or not touch the car until it is time to go home? What, and where, are you going to eat?

Familiar or far out? How far out of your comfort zone do you want to push yourself? Do you want to be completely out in the wilds

Mix nature and history – this spot at Abbey Farm Showfield is five minutes from Whitby.

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where you need to be totally self sufficient, it is pitch black at night and the only noise comes from the wildlife? Or do you need the convenience and familiarity of shower blocks, well-lit paths and a shop on site? Do you like slick and orderly places to stay, or can you rough it with just a tap and a Portaloo?

The options

Size matters

Rural idylls

If you have a family tent the size of a small bungalow or want a ‘pup tent’ – a smaller second tent for storage, children or pets – on the side, you will need to check space limits. Some sites have restricted pitches, others may charge more depending on the footprint you need. It is worth looking at the rules on gazebos too.

Holiday parks

Often appealing for families who enjoy the facilities or couples who like to be sociable, these are a great place to start if you are nervous about camping for the first time. They are no good for those in search of solitude, though.

The facilities vary massively on more rural sites. You may find loos in old outbuildings and limited access to shops and communities, but if you are a good planner they could be perfect.

City living

Don’t just look for campsites in the countryside. There are some great

Size matters if you need a large, family pitch – check what space is available.

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Walking from your door is one of the biggest attractions of camping holidays.

ones on the outskirts of the big towns and cities too. These could be ideal for those who want a cost-effective break with the bright lights on their doorstep.

Quirky pop-ups

You may find farmers who are diversifying by opening up a field for the summer with temporary toilets, or car parks of pubs where they do the same. Some B&Bs broaden their offer for a season with garden camping too. Expect limited facilities but a warm welcome.

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Glam it up

If you want to ease yourself into camping gently, or actually don’t want to sleep under canvas at all but do crave the joy of being outdoors, then glamping is for you. Tree houses, pods, shepherd huts, bothies or barns… The options are endless when it comes to heating, lighting, furnishings and more.

Accessible camping

If you have limited mobility, camping can still be a relaxing, low-cost break, as long as there are level routes and accessible toilet, washing and other facilities.

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More than 1,000 sites around the UK describe themselves as disability friendly. Websites such as www. pitchup.com, www.coolcamping. com, www.lovecamping.co.uk, www. campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk, www.campsites.co.uk and www. ukcampsite.co.uk list those here and abroad with good wheelchair access and facilities designed to cater for a range of disabilities. Several leading tent brands, including Outwell, Vango and Coleman, offer models with the easy access and extra space required if you are a wheelchair user or have other mobility issues. For more information, see www. disabilitease.com.

CHEAP HACK Pitch at a pub Some pubs and the like offer free or really cheap pitches on the condition you buy dinner or breakfast from them. They are mainly trying to appeal to motorhome owners but there are some hidden gems with small fields on offer.

If you want to try camping before deciding whether to invest in a tent of your own, why not begin by glamping in an accessible pod or yurt? Find out more at www.glampsites.com or www. goglamping.net. No-one knows your needs better than you do, so make contact with your

Coastal camping, like at Pencarnan in Pembrokeshire, puts beaches on your doorstep.

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Rural sites, such as The Secret Campsite, Lewes, offer nature lovers tranquil retreats.

preferred site before booking to check it is set up to provide everything you require for an enjoyable stay. To find out more, search for ‘camping’ on www. simplyemma.co.uk.

Protect your belongings Wherever you choose to camp, don’t leave your tent unattended with the door open. Always bring everything

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inside and close up fully if you plan to be away for any length of time. Never leave anything precious, or anything with sentimental value, in your tent. Check the small print of your contents insurance policy to see what cover might be included for your camping kit and other possessions while you are away from home.

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Pop-up sites, like Clifftops Camping in Pembrokeshire, are increasingly popular.

Pitch carefully away from other campers, for privacy, noise and safety reasons.

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The perfect pitch How do you find the right site and avoid the holiday from hell? Dan Yates, founder of www.pitchup.com, has ten top tips.

• Grade yourself from one to ten –

with one being ‘I can’t survive a night away without a hotel pillow menu’ and ten saying ‘I could survive alone on a desert island’. If you are at the lower end of the scale, a pop-up campsite in the

wilds with a composting toilet and no electric hook-up probably isn’t the place for you. Maybe consider glamping in a heated yurt or a log cabin. Read the site descriptions carefully. If you check what facilities are available, you will have a good idea of what to expect when you get there. Look at the pitches. You will want a shady spot to keep you cool if

• •

A LITTLE LUXURY Borrow a bell tent Want to go glamping but in your own portable space, rather than using someone else’s accommodation? How about hiring or buying a gorgeous bell tent? Beware if your car boot is tiny, you might need a trailer for some of these – and you will have to check the pitch size on the sites you want to stay on! Bunting, carpets and pot plants optional…

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Get away from the light pollution of towns and cities and the night sky can be incredible.

you are camping in high summer. If you prefer peace and quiet, check you can pitch away from the communal facilities. Study the site rules before you book. Do they welcome children? Can you take the dog? Do dogs need to be on leads at all times, or is there an exercise field? Be a good neighbour – and choose your site to suit. Sound carries pretty well across flat fields, so be mindful that any noise above a certain level can be intrusive. Campers are generally an easygoing lot, but there is definitely an expectation that by 10pm, all will

• •

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be quiet. However, if you want a peaceful break, perhaps the sites designed for families and groups are not for you. Have a go at putting your tent up, and taking it down. It is easier to get to grips with the instructions the first time in the privacy of your back garden or local park than when you arrive at your holiday spot at sunset. Don’t do what I did and have to unpack your new eight-man tent by the light of your car headlights after delays en route to the campsite. Check what is on the menu. If you are planning barbecues, ensure

•

•

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that your site allows them, as not all do. For easier options, book a site with a restaurant or close to a pub. If you are self-catering, consider using your car as a pantry – it helps to keep your ingredients fresh, and reduces the appealing smells to local wildlife. Personalise your tent. It can be tricky to recognise your own tent among a field full of similarlooking domes, especially after dark. Unleash your creativity and bring along a tent marker – flags, windsocks, bunting and batteryoperated fairy lights all work well. If it rains, don’t panic! Many sites have drying rooms and some larger ones have launderettes with tumble

•

•

dryers. But, most importantly, pack a waterproof jacket and more than one set of clothes. Leave no trace. It is the unofficial law of wild camping, but it holds true for any kind of trip – leave no trace aside from a patch of flattened grass. Use the on-site waste disposal facilities, or take any rubbish away with you – including damaged tents. Ensure any cooking is done responsibly so that there is no lasting damage to the surrounding area. By travelling with reusable crockery, cutlery, water bottles and equipment, we can all help ensure that even more people can enjoy the great outdoors for years to come.

•

If you have practised pitching, everything should go smoothly when you reach the site.

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A shady forest spot is perfect for summer camping, though beware if storms are forecast.

Ask before you book a pitch if dogs are allowed at your campsite of choice.

Some sites are adults only, others don’t allow big groups – check their rules.

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Glamping offers some quirky options, like this tree tent at The Secret Campsite, Lewes.

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TENTS AND SHELTERS | 27

TENTS AND SHELTERS Your choice of tent or shelter can make or break a camping trip, but with hundreds of different models on the market, it is hard to know what to buy if you are new to outdoor living. The key to successful tent selection is to do your research and get advice from people who do ‘your’ type of camping. As well as suiting your budget, a tent needs to be straightforward to pitch, to give protection from wind and rain, and keep out the worst of the cold, especially at night, without collapsing, rustling or soaking everything with dripping condensation by morning. It also needs to be spacious enough to make a comfortable home for you and your belongings, particularly if the weather keeps you inside for long periods, without being too big and heavy to transport easily.

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for lightweight expedition tents, to four figures for air tents and yurts sleeping large groups and weighing as much as a small adult. Those at the cheapest end of the market are less likely to stay waterproof in prolonged, heavy rain, whereas at the very lightweight technical end of the spectrum, due to the nature of the fabric, the seams may need to be sealed with liquid silicone before the first use. Your choice of tent should be based on budget and where and when you plan to camp.

What do you need? Prices range from under £30 for small, pop-up festival-style models suitable for occasional summer use by one or two people, via several hundred pounds

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Hire before you buy If you are going on a one-off trip or aren’t sure whether camping is for you, rather than splashing out on gear you may not use again, borrow or consider hiring. Companies such as Outdoor Hire (www.outdoorhire.co.uk) rent out tents and other equipment at reasonable rates.

If you plan to camp only a handful of times a year, and mostly in summer, it won’t make sense to pay top dollar, but if you want a tent for regular or fourseason use, it will be worth investing more for greater comfort, durability and, depending on the style you choose, easier pitching.

If your tent will be transported by car or van and used only at campsites, weight and bulk won’t be massively important, but if you are likely to travel by public transport, bike, boat or on foot, anything more than a couple of kilos will soon feel like a burden.

Campsite tents Whether you are planning a relaxing break for two or a family or group adventure, the choice of campsite tents is huge. Compact dome and tunnel models are available from under £100. For more headroom and space, including separate sleeping pods and

Compact dome and tunnel-shaped tents with room for two are available for under £100.

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room for full-size camping furniture, expect to pay upwards of £300 for a four-berth tent. Generally speaking, the more you pay, the more robust and long-lasting it is likely to be and the more features you can expect, such as additional storage pockets and zip-down blackout curtains to keep out the morning sun when you want an undisturbed lie in. Prices for air tents, which have an inflatable frame instead of poles, start at about £500 for four-berth models and go all the way up to around £1,500 for the largest and most luxurious designs.

Air frame or poles? If you can afford an air tent, they do have distinct advantages over traditional pole designs. Poles can break or bend – or get left behind at home – and they have to be assembled and slotted through fabric sheaths or attached to a series of clips before you can begin pegging out, making pitching fiddly and time consuming for larger and more complex models. With an air-frame tent, you simply inflate the support tubes with a pump and peg it out. They tend to be more stable in windy weather, but they

Air-frame tents, like Vango’s Anantara range, are robust and relatively quick to pitch.

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are usually heavier than equivalent poled designs, making them even less portable.

Tents for one or two The choice of one and two-person tents can also be bewildering. The majority have poles, rather than an air frame, helping keep the weight down. This won’t be a major consideration if you always drive to campsites, but if you want the flexibility to use other forms of transport, you will need something light that packs down into a rucksack, pannier or other bike or boat bag. Expect to pay anything from £100 for a basic one-person tent to £600 and beyond for a high-spec, three or four-season model weighing less than

3kg from leading manufacturers such as Hilleberg, MSR, Robens and Vango. It is safe to assume, the lighter the materials used, the higher the cost. For backpacking, aim for a total weight of 2kg or less. Specialist backpacking tents made from Dyneema Composite Fabric (DCF) weigh as little as 500g but can cost between £600 and £1,000, considerably more than equivalent designs in traditional silicone-coated nylon (silnylon).

Shapes and sizes The style you opt for will come down to personal choice. Do you prefer a dome or a tunnel shape? Dome tents usually have more living space and a slightly more stable structure, but in

Tunnel tents, such as these Hilleberg models, often have more vestibule space.

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rainy conditions they are more prone to water ingress when you open the door. Tunnel tents frequently have more vestibule space and can be front or side entry, depending on the model. Some tents have a single door on the side or end, while others have a door on each side, making it easier for two people to get in and out without clambering over each other. Also think about headroom and length. If weight is your prime concern, you can save a few grams by opting for a model with only enough space for the average person to recline. But if you want to be able to sit up fully – which can be important if bad weather keeps you inside – unless you are

below average height, you will need something slightly higher. If you are taller than average, make sure you can lie down comfortably without your feet or head touching the fabric, as this is likely to leave you with a damp sleeping bag by morning. If you plan to travel very light, space will be tighter, but if there are two of you with kit to store, pay extra attention to the vestibule dimensions.

Protect the floor No matter how light you are travelling, take a separate groundsheet to protect the base of your shelter (also known as the bathtub) from dirt and abrasions. You can buy groundsheets for specific tents, but they tend to be an

Outer-pitch tents, where the fly goes up first, are most suited to the damp UK climate.

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A large family tent, such as Outwell’s spacious Colorado, can cost close to £1,000. Tarp shelters, like this one from Hilleberg, are best used on mild, windless nights.

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expensive addition. Alternatively, create your own by cutting lightweight Polycro or Tyvek to size. These are available online for under £10.

Inner or outer first? Another key choice with smaller tents is between inner-pitch-first and outerpitch-first models. Most designed for the UK market are outer-pitch, meaning the waterproof outer shell goes up first along with the poles, protecting you and your belongings if you are pitching or striking camp in bad weather. Inner-pitch models – where the poles hold up the inner, and the outer, or fly sheet, is stretched over the top afterwards – are less pleasant to put up and strike in the rain, but work well in warmer, drier climates, as you can use them without the outer for cooler sleep. If you plan to do most of your camping in the UK, opt for outerpitch-first. Provided there aren’t too many bugs around, you can always discard the inner on rare nights when it is too hot to sleep under two layers of fabric. With many models, you can leave the inner attached when you strike camp, making set-up faster next time. Single skin tents are available from specialist suppliers such as MSR and US firms Tarptent and Gossamer Gear. They are expensive and most appropriate for ultralight backpacking.

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CHEAP HACK Make your own doormat A rectangle of leftover underlay for laminated flooring, or similar heavy-duty plastic, edged with duct tape, will make a lightweight but effective tent doormat.

Fabrics and poles The temperature range you are likely to encounter will also dictate the style of inner you go for. One made mostly of solid fabric can be cosier in colder weather, while a higher proportion of mesh makes sleeping easier if it stays very warm overnight, and allows for better ventilation, reducing condensation. If you are looking for a backpacking tent and walk with trekking poles, there are very lightweight designs that use these rather than traditional tent poles. Manufacturers include DD Hammocks in the UK, Tarptent, Mountain Laurel Designs and Hyperlite Mountain Gear, all in the US, and 3FUL Gear in China. Prices range from around £150 for 3FUL’s one-person Lanshan Pro, weighing less than 700g, to Hyperlite’s 1.1kg two-person DCF UltaMid with additional mesh inner at close to £1,000. But remember, if buying direct from abroad, there will be import duty and VAT to pay on top of the purchase price.

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A tarpaulin, two trees and a hammock make a simple, low-cost shelter. A waterproof bivvy bag, such as Alpkit’s Hunka, can be used with or without a tarp.

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Do your research Unless you are buying at the very bottom of the market, a tent is a serious investment, so it is vital to do your research. If possible, borrow a similar style of tent to the one you have in mind and try it out for a couple of nights at a campsite or in your garden. Read reviews in magazines and online, and think about the weather conditions in which you are likely to camp. Even if you plan to buy online, visit specialist shops and outdoor shows first so you can examine the models you are interested in. Take off your shoes and get inside. Sit up, lie down, try out the doors and vents, and imagine yourself living in the space in the pouring rain.

If a tent you are considering is in stock but not on display, don’t hesitate to ask an assistant to put it up for you. If they aren’t keen, take your custom elsewhere – they don’t deserve it! If you can only find what you want from an overseas supplier, make sure they spell out the full postage and import costs, how long it should take to reach you and how to go about organising a return and getting a replacement or refund if problems arise. Second-hand tents can be a bargain, but you need to be certain of what you are getting. If buying in person, insist on seeing it fully erected in good light and check everything in minute detail.

Alpkit’s hooped Elan bivvy has a canopy that can be zipped shut in poor weather.

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If buying from an individual online, use only sites you trust and see if the seller has been well reviewed by previous purchasers. If the pictures seem inadequate, ask for more or don’t buy. Never pay by bank transfer; always use an online payment service, such as PayPal, that offers protection in case the tent doesn’t turn up or is not as advertised.

Tarpaulin shelters If you are looking for an even simpler or lighter outdoors experience, a tarpaulin shelter could be just the

ticket. Tarps don’t give the same all-round protection from wind and weather as tents though, so they are best reserved for mild, dry nights. You can create your own tarp shelter very cheaply using a large waterproof sheet, a length of cord, four tent pegs and a couple of well-spaced trees or two walking poles and spare guy lines. To find out how, see the Boat and Board Camping chapter, pages 138 to 140. Hunker down underneath with a groundsheet, sleeping mat and bag or – if you are using trees – in

Make life easy by doing a practice pitch in the garden before your first expedition.

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a hammock. Hammock prices, from retailers such as Alpkit, Robens and DD Hammocks, start at around £40. Prices for ready-made one-person ripstop nylon tarps with attachment points begin at around £50 from these suppliers and Terra Nova. Terra Nova’s Competition Tarp 2, which costs about £100, weighs less than 300g and measures almost 2.5m by 3m, making it roomy enough to share.

For more inspiration on tarp pitching options, search online for the ‘Alpkit tarp smart blog’.

Bivouac shelters Another option for getting really close to nature on mild nights is a bivouac or bivvy shelter. This is basically just a lightweight waterproof sleeping bag cover. Make sure your bivvy bag will take your mat and bag comfortably, and

A LITTLE LUXURY Ready and waiting If you are more into glamping than roughing it and like the idea of someone else providing and pitching the tent, check out the Camping and Caravanning Club’s Ready Camp offer (www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk). Their pre-erected safari tents sleep up to six people and come fully equipped with beds, tables, chairs and kitchen equipment, including hobs, microwaves and fridges.

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If you have an air tent, don’t leave home without checking you have packed the pump.

your sleeping bag isn’t squashed, or you won’t stay warm. Alpkit has a range of waterproof, breathable hooded mummy-shaped bivvy bags weighing between 300g and 500g. Prices start at about £50. Be prepared for a wet face if it rains, and remember that everything else – including your footwear – will have to stay outside. To protect belongings from night-time showers or morning dew, wrap them in a lightweight tarp or large dry bag. Hooped bivvies weigh a little more – Lightwave’s Stormchaser, priced at around £350, is 520g, while the Alpkit

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Elan, retailing at around £100, is 900g – but they have the advantage of a canopy that can be closed if the weather deteriorates. However, like other styles that give full cover, they are not a good option for anyone prone to claustrophobia.

Practise pitching Whether you are buying, borrowing or even hiring your tent or shelter, ensure things go smoothly on your inaugural trip by doing a full practice pitch at home. If you don’t have enough outside or inside space, use a friend’s garden or a local park.

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No matter how rushed you are when getting ready to go away, double check the contents of the tent bag. Make sure you have an outer, all the inner sections and a groundsheet; that all the poles, guy lines and pegs, including spares, are present and in a good state, and that you have a mallet to set up larger family models, and a repair kit. If it is an air tent, also be certain you have a fully working, compatible pump.

Choosing your pitch Take a little time to choose your pitching spot. The flatter the ground the better. Don’t camp in a dip that may fill with water if it rains, or trap cold air, and if you can’t avoid sleeping on a slope, plan to keep your head towards

the top. Stay far away from cliff edges and steep drops. Scour the ground for sharp objects such as stones and twigs that could damage the tent base, and avoid boggy patches. Camping close to a river or stream can be very scenic, but it can also be surprisingly noisy and you could find yourself flooded out or plagued by insects. If bugs are likely to be a problem, try to find a more elevated, airy spot and keep inner doors zipped closed when not in use. If there is a breeze but no insects, look for a spot that will give you protection, and angle the tent so the wind doesn’t blow straight in the door. If it is a tunnel shape, position the end furthest from the door into the wind.

Guy lines are important for tent stability, so pull them out fully and peg securely.

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Also consider whether you want to catch the morning sun, or be in the shade. Beware of trees if high wind is forecast or if you plan to stay more than a night or two, as accumulated tree sap can leave your tent in a sticky mess. Where is the best view to wake up to? What will give you most privacy? What will be most convenient if you need to get up to go to the loo in the night?

Guy lines, poles and pegs As soon as you have assembled and inserted or attached the poles, or inflated the tubes, start securing the tent with pegs so it doesn’t twist or blow away if an unexpected gust catches it. With smaller tents, attach a guy line to a rucksack or other heavy object while you get organised. Guy lines are there for a reason, so use them all, pulling them out fully and pegging securely for maximum stability. As the sun goes down and the air gets cooler, the tent fabric will dampen slightly and may sag, so check and retighten everything before bedtime to avoid flapping and excessive condensation. Most tents come with a sleeve or splint for repairing damaged poles. These are also available from camping suppliers. You should be able to order a new pole online. If the warranty has expired and the manufacturer can’t help, Bear Bones (www. bearbonesbikepacking.co.uk) offers made-to-measure replacements.

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Leave vents open – like guy lines, they are there for a reason – and to reduce moisture build up ensure that you and your belongings don’t press against the inner in the night. If you are worried about being cold, put on an extra layer and a hat.

Packing and storing The better you care for your tent, the longer it should last. Before striking camp, wipe mud, bird droppings and snail trails off the outer with a damp cloth or sponge; brush or shake out grass, crumbs and other debris from the bathtub and groundsheet, and check the whole tent is as dry as possible. Fold and tie the guy lines neatly, and wipe and count in all pegs so none are left behind. Roll or fold up the fabric parts and pack into the tent bag. If it is wet or damp, pack lightly into a bin bag instead – making sure it doesn’t get mixed up with the rubbish – and dry out fully as soon as you can. Before leaving your pitch, do a final look round for litter and never leave anything, however insignificant, behind. When you get home, unpack and air the tent over a washing line or hang it up in a garage or shed. Give any remaining marks a final sponge and pack away only when completely dry. If it isn’t used for several months, unpack everything and examine thoroughly for signs of mould or damage by insects or mice before heading off on your next adventure.

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SLEEP SYSTEMS Whether you are heading for some family fun on a campsite, or out into the wilds to lose yourself in nature, you need to wake feeling rested. That means making the right choice of bedding for your particular adventure. If you are travelling by car or van, comfort will probably be your first concern, but if you are going by public

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transport, bike, boat or on foot – or have to fit several people and their gear into a small vehicle – bulk and weight will matter too.

Types of bed For car camping, an insulated air mattress, which can weigh several kilos and take up a surprising amount

There is no reason to be chilly or uncomfortable when you go camping.

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Check the airbed fits Airbeds can be much bigger than you expect when fully inflated, so before buying or borrowing one, check there will be room in your tent’s sleeping compartment. It could spoil the trip to arrive tired at a campsite, a long way from home, pump up your bed and find it won’t fit.

make it more comfortable, and is likely to be colder than a mattress used alone because of the air circulating underneath. If you have space in your vehicle, for a truly cosy night you can’t beat a duvet, under sheet, a blanket or two and some full-sized pillows.

Sleeping mat basics

of space even when deflated, will give your tent a real home-from-home feel. Properly inflated, they are cosy and comfortable. For extra warmth, choose a flock top, additional depth or a memory foam topper. Prices range from under £20 for a basic single to over £100 for a more luxurious double. Some come with a built-in pump, while others require a separate manual or powered one. If buying separately, check the valves are compatible. For the best result, pump up fairly hard and, with the sleeper lying on the bed, slowly release the pressure to the desired level. Another option is to take a camp bed, but this may need a mattress to

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Even when weight is a consideration, if you want to sleep well, you will need an insulating layer between you and the ground. The cheapest option is a rollup or folding foam mat, also known as a closed-cell mat. Simply unfurl it and your bed base is ready, with no danger of puncture on rough terrain. These mats are not as pleasant to sleep on as air-filled designs, especially for side sleepers. Also, they don’t pack down, so for backpacking they need to be carried on the outside of your rucksack, adding bulk. Costs range from around £5 for a basic foam roll to over £40 for high-quality brands such as Exped and Therm-a-Rest. Sleeping pads and mats are rated by R-value, or thermal resistance, on a scale of R1, which are suitable for summer use, via R3 three-season use to R6 for extreme cold, but this is only a guide, as everyone experiences temperature differently.

Self-inflating mats A self-inflating mat (SIM), which gradually fills with air when the valve

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is opened, will keep you snug and comfortable and should pack down to roughly the size of a one-litre water bottle. You can add a few top-up breaths, but this is best avoided as, in time, the bacteria introduced may damage the mat. SIMs are filled with honeycomb foam and expand to a depth of 2cm to 4cm. More thickness means greater comfort and insulation, but also more bulk, so check the packed weight and size before buying. For carrying in a rucksack or on a bike, aim for less than 600g.

A good quality inflatable mat is not cheap, but used along with a well-chosen sleeping bag and properly cared for, it should give good service for many years. Prices for self-inflating mats range from around £20 for heavier, less insulated designs to well over £100 for lightweight, highly-insulated models.

Insulated mats An ultralight insulated air mat can be even more costly but will provide superior warmth and cushioning,

Insulated air mattresses, like these Outwell designs, turn a tent into a home-from-home.

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CHEAP HACK Create your own pillow To keep weight and costs down, fill a stretch fabric neck warmer with spare clothes. A neck warmer will also make a cosy protective cover for an inflatable pillow. If you are backpacking, you are likely to have a pump bag to inflate your mat, which doubles as a rucksack liner. Semi inflated and covered with a neck warmer it can take on a third role as a pillow. Prices for pump bags are up to £20 for a Robens model, or around £25 for a lighter Exped version. Make sure your pump bag valve fits your chosen sleeping mat or pillow.

because of the additional insulating content and depth, for minimal weight and bulk. The moulded air pockets can be inflated in a few seconds using a lightweight pump bag or more slowly with a mini battery-powered pump weighing as little as 60g. However, these mats are more delicate than other types, so need to be treated with greater care.

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Ultralight insulated air mats – which tend to inflate to between 7cm and 10cm – come in a range of dimensions: mummy-shaped or shorter for less weight, extra-long or wide for larger users, and shaped and insulated specifically for women, with less width at the shoulders and more at the hips. If you choose a shorter mat to reduce pack weight, simply put

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The air circulating under a camp bed can make for a cooler sleep than on a mattress.

your rucksack or spare clothing under your feet. Prices for lightweight air mats range from about £30 to more than £250 for models weighing under 300g from brands such as Exped, Therm-a-Rest and Sea To Summit.

Sleeping bag basics Your choice of sleeping bag should be based on budget and when and how you plan to use it. Bags are rated according to how snug they are likely to keep you. A one-season bag is only suitable for summer nights, while a two-season bag should be comfortable in late spring and early autumn as well. To be

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warm enough throughout spring and autumn, choose a three-season model, while for winter camps, you will need to invest in a four-season bag or add a lightweight quilt. Sleeping bags are also labelled by comfort rating, which is the temperature at which the average person would sleep reasonably, assuming they were well-fed and hydrated, clothed and lying on a good quality mat. But women generally sleep colder than men, so they need greater insulation to achieve the same level of comfort. The ‘upper’ temperature, which is not shown on all bags, is roughly the highest at which an average man will

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Closed-cell sleeping mats, like this one from Robens, are a robust, budget option.

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Prepare for punctures If you are camping with an airbed, self-inflating or insulated air mat, always check the ground for sharp objects and don’t forget to pack the manufacturer’s repair kit. The lighter your mat, the more vulnerable it is likely to be.

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not overheat, while the ‘comfort’ level is the temperature at which the typical woman could sleep comfortably in a relaxed position. The lower ‘limit’ is the temperature at which the average man can still expect a decent night in a curled position; the ‘extreme’ temperature is the lowest at which a woman could survive without succumbing to hypothermia. Of course, few people are average, and these ratings are not always entirely accurate, so err on the side of caution. The less body fat you have and the more tired or hungry you are, the more insulation you will need to

get a good night’s sleep. Whatever your shape and size, think seriously before sleeping out in very low temperatures. Some bags, often cheaper children’s styles, don’t show any temperature ratings. Assume these are effectively one-season bags, suitable only for use at home or on the mildest of summer nights.

Ultra-lightweight insulated air mats come in a range of shapes and sizes.

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Sleeping bags should have a comfort rating showing the conditions they can be used in.

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Mummy-shaped bags are cosy, but open-backed quilt-styles are lighter to carry. If possible, air your sleeping bag every morning and don’t pack it away damp.

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CHEAP HACK Sitting and sleeping comfortably A folding sit mat is multipurpose. Not only does it keep your rear dry, you can kneel on it while you get organised, and it will provide extra insulation under your head or feet as you sleep. Pick one up for around £2.50 – or recycle one of those tough, spongy nylon packing sheets you get in parcels for free. For something a little more robust, try a Highlander reflective waterproof mat, costing around £12, or a shiny folding car sunshield for under £5. They will also fit neatly under your sleeping mat.

Synthetic or down? Bags with synthetic filling tend to be cheaper and are better at retaining heat when damp. Artificial fibres don’t hold heat as efficiently as down when

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dry, though, so they need more fill to achieve a similar comfort level, making them heavier and bulkier. However, technology is improving all the time and synthetic fillings such as PlumaFill

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and PrimaLoft Gold are almost as good as natural ones. Down, which comes from ducks and geese, traps air extremely efficiently, making it much cosier as long as it is kept dry. If you are able to pay a bit more, opt for hydrophobic down, which has been treated to better withstand the damp UK climate, plus a water repellent outer fabric. If using animal products is a concern, look for ethically sourced down bearing the RDS, Responsible Down Standard, logo or choose a synthetic fill.

Shapes, sizes and styles Always try before you buy to make sure your preferred bag strikes the

right balance between cosiness and roominess. Too small and you are likely to be miserable, too large and you will lose heat. Check you can turn over easily and point your toes without uncovering your shoulders or losing contact with the hood. A hooded, mummy-shaped design is more restrictive but much cosier than a rectangular one. If you are camping with a partner and neither of you suffers from claustrophobia, buying a matching pair with left and right-hand zips will allow you to join them into a double. A women’s specific bag will be shorter and narrower with more filling around the hips and in the footbox.

You can sleep in whatever you like – pyjamas or spare clothes – and even take a duvet.

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A LITTLE LUXURY Custom-made comfort A custom-made sleeping bag from a company such as Cumulus or PHD can cost anything from £300 to £1,500, but if you plan to use it regularly and can afford it, it is well worth the investment to have something that has the exact fill, material, shape and zip length you prefer.

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For more flexibility and to cut weight even further, consider a specialist lightweight quilt, which can be used on its own in warm weather or combined with a conventional bag in winter. Quilts can be mummyshaped, with a closed footbox and open back, or fully rectangular with fastenings for conversion into a bag on cooler nights. Many surprisingly heavy bags are marketed as lightweight. If you will be carrying yours in a rucksack or on a bike, look for less than 600g. If you are going seriously lightweight, consider an elephant’s foot or halfbag, which comes only to the waist, and supplement it by wearing a down or synthetic filled jacket. Prices for one or two-season synthetic sleeping bags suitable for occasional campsite use start at around £20. Expect to pay £150 to £350 for a quality lightweight three-season bag.

Care and storage Whichever type of bag you choose, always use a liner. These come in silk, cotton and artificial fibres, and as well as adding warmth, they will prolong the

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life of the bag by protecting it from dirt, skin oil and sweat. Prices range from £20 to £100. When in use, keep sleeping bags and mats away from food to avoid spills and stains. Wipe off any stains immediately. Air your bag every morning and, if possible, don’t pack it unless fully dry. At home, to prolong the life of bags and lightweight mats, store unrolled if possible. Hang your bag in a wardrobe or pack loosely into a large mesh bag or pillowcase, and wash only when absolutely necessary and always according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

What to wear If you are heading for a campsite by car or van, there is nothing to stop you taking whatever you normally go to bed in, but if you need to keep weight and bulk down, sleep in your spare clothes. Choose garments in stretch or thermal fabrics without zips, as these can dig in and damage your bag or mat. Always have a hat and socks within reach, and never sleep in damp clothes, particularly if they are made out of cotton.

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4 COOKING AND EATING Whether you are a full-on foodie or simply see food as fuel, getting your menus and cooking kit right on a camping trip is a must. It is miserable being hungry – particularly if it is chilly or you have got some miles to cover that day. A screw-on stove and noodles for dinner – two easy camping solutions.

Of course, there are plenty of diningout options you could choose – and we would always recommend you do your bit for the local economy by seeking out great pubs, restaurants, cafés, shops and producers – but you are going to want to at least make a brew at your tent. So what kit do you really need? And what do you need to know about safety?

Stoves and fuel There are many, many options so think about how many mouths you need to feed, what you are likely to be cooking, and what sort of weight and bulk you are prepared to carry. Confirmed car campers will love two-burner stoves, some of which even come with a grill for toast. Single burners can be as cheap as £15, with double burners from about £35. Pick your fuel carefully. Propane, in the large red bottles, is better in low temperatures and is lighter in weight, while butane, in the big blue bottles, burns more efficiently in warmer

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weather. Beware – they have different regulators (the bits that attach them to the stove), so you will need to check you have the right one. For a more compact option, top or screw-on burners attach to a small fuel canister and work best if you use a windshield too. Campingaz, Primus and MSR are widely available brands and their prices start at around £15. The Soto Windmaster is a powerful, fast-boiling titanium burner that costs around £40 and weighs in at just 85g. Even lighter is the 25g BRS 3000T titanium burner at about £15.

If you plan to mainly boil water for hot drinks and rehydrating dried meals, an all-in-one stove system is a good option. These come with a pot and most don’t need a windshield as they have heat exchange fins, which perform the same function. With all-in-one stoves, the burner, gas canister and stand fit inside the pot for easy packing, and the plastic base cover can be used as a cup or for measuring. JetBoil has a range of one and two-person styles priced from around £90 to £150, while Alpkit’s BruKit costs around £45.

Dual burners are ideal for families and car campers who aren’t travelling light.

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Compact catering If you are trying to lighten the weight of your kit, buy a spork – a cross between a spoon and a fork – instead of separate pieces of cutlery. If you really want to make it lighter, shorten the handle by carefully sawing off the fork end. To save some space, get a collapsible mug that is big enough to use as a bowl too. Take a lighter instead of matches, which won’t work in the wet.

Be aware, though, that stoves which attach to the top of the canister can be unstable on uneven ground. A clip-on canister stand, costing around £5, is a good idea. With remote burner stoves, the canister is attached to the burner by a fuel line, making them more stable. Again, a windshield is a wise addition. Some, such as Alpkit’s Koro, selling for about £50, burn gas, while others, such as the MSR Whisperlite, costing around £110, can use a range of fuels including petroleum-based white gas, using a pressure bottle, available from specialist camping shops. Alcohol stoves like the Trangia range burn methylated spirit or denatured alcohol and can also use bio fuel made from sugar beet. Light but relatively bulky, they come with their own pans in a nesting system so have a built-in windshield, and cost from about £50 to £100 depending on the set and material.

flame. Have a look at the Zelph Starlyte or Esbit spirit burner, and remember you will definitely need a windshield. Esbit also does a version which uses fuel tablets or bio gels. The tablets can be smelly and sooty – the gels aren’t. They can weigh as little as 10g and are very cheap to buy.

Naked flames Cooking over an open flame, like a barbecue or fire pit, is a subject that can cause controversy. Many campsites don’t allow them because of the risk of fire from sparks, There are loads of compact stove options on the market, perfect for backpackers.

Niche stoves Campers looking for a very light option could try a wick burner. You pour methylated spirit on it to create the

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If you are cooking over real flames, choose a firepit with legs so the ground isn’t damaged.

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Barbecues are always popular but pick one which isn’t close to the ground.

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CHEAP HACK Keep it cosy A cosy box which fits the bowl or pot you plan to eat from, or can wrap around your meal packet, is ideal for keeping food hot while it rehydrates. Make one using foil-backed bubble wrap insulation – you can buy big rolls from the likes of Toolstation, or see www.backpackinglight.co.uk for pre-cut pieces.

and the damage to the landscape – there has even been a push to ban the sale of disposable barbecues thanks to irresponsible picnickers burning holes in grass, and they take a huge amount of time to cool down so they often get abandoned. We are not going to say don’t cook in this way, but do choose your kit with care and have water on stand-by to extinguish any stray sparks. Get a barbecue on legs so it doesn’t scorch the grass, cook on a beach or

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stony river bank, bring your own wood or charcoal, don’t burn driftwood and never cut down branches or trees. Green wood doesn’t burn so don’t even try it. Always cook in a well-ventilated space and make sure you are on level ground. Keep your gas cylinders away from naked flames and direct sunlight. Make sure you always know where your matches or lighter are for safety reasons, but also because it is really frustrating when you can’t find them and are desperate for a cuppa!

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Pots, pans and flasks If your stove doesn’t come with pans, you will need to invest in a set or repurpose some from home. You might also want to buy a folding toaster grill, available for under £10. Anodised aluminium is a popular choice for pans as the coating is easy to clean – and that makes washing up less of a chore when hot water can be scarce. Titanium is lighter and more robust and it heats up and cools down quicker. Regular aluminium isn’t great for cooking as food sticks to it easily, though you may choose this for your Porridge is a healthy and easy breakfast choice – add fruit for extra flavour.

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kettle. There is always stainless steel – just like you probably use at home – but that is definitely one for the car campers as it can be very heavy. You are likely to be taking a flask with you, so fill it with boiling water before you leave home and you can immediately make hot drinks, or use it to fill your hot water bottle to make your sleeping bag cosy. If you don’t already own an efficient flask, they start at £10, but if you are willing to splash out a bit, a Red Original insulated water bottle, priced at around £25, will keep liquids hot or cold all day. Don’t deprive yourself of a bacon butty – or a hot veggie alternative – for breakfast.

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Some menu ideas Pack a basic kit that comes away with you on every trip. Salt, pepper, mixed herbs and chilli flakes will liven up any meal. If weight is an issue, wrap them in twists of kitchen foil or paper, or buy mini reusable plastic tubs or bottles you can keep refilling with oil, ketchup and the like.

Breakfast

Fry onions, mushrooms and tomatoes for a fast hot meal. Meat eaters can add some chopped bacon or

finely-sliced sausage. Crack eggs on top and tilt the pan to spread them around for a one-pot meal. Dip cheese sandwiches in beaten egg then fry, or take pancake batter in a flask and simply pour into a hot, oiled pan. Instant porridge is a good ribsticking option. Take it in resealable bags that you can stand in a bowl or mug, then add hot water or milk. Wash the bags out to reuse later. Throw in some fruit or nuts for a bit of variety. Bacon butty envy is a common campsite condition. You have taken

A hearty stew is a good first-night dinner option – simply make at home and reheat.

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healthy muesli, and then you get the aroma wafting over from next door’s tent. Give in to it or you will be craving it all day!

Lunch and dinner

For the fastest first-night meal, prepare a hearty stew at home and take it with you in a reusable container. Reheat thoroughly, and serve with crusty bread and butter – a great filler to accompany every meal of the day. Take some leftovers. If you have a curry or pasta a night or two before you are going away, keep some portions in the fridge or freezer, take them out as

you leave the house, then heat up for a speedy dinner. Instant noodles, rice bags and couscous are your best friends if you want to limit cooking time and fuel use. Portion into reusable containers and add salt, pepper, herbs and spices so you can simply pour on hot water. Aim for around 50g of couscous and 100ml of water per person. Chuck in some cooked ham or chicken, flaked mackerel or tinned tuna or sardines if you want a non-veggie version. Pick your pasta carefully so you don’t have to cook it for ages. Supermarkets sell 'easy cook'

Catching fish is tempting if you are boat camping, but have a back-up plan.

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versions that are ready in about four minutes. Fake pizza using pitta breads crisped up in a hot, oiled pan. Spread on warmed tinned tomatoes or passata, sprinkle on some cheese and mixed herbs, and eat hot or cold. If you are car camping, tins and jars are ideal. No mess, no fuss. Baked beans are an obvious choice. Chickpeas and other mixed pulses will bulk out any sauce and could even replace other carbs such as rice or pasta, while tinned fruit makes an easy dessert. Don’t take the whole jar if it means you will waste stuff. Pre-mix tinned tomatoes, olives, anchovies, finely chopped onions and peppers for a swift pasta topper, or portion out a few spoonfuls of pesto for the fastest spaghetti sauce. Add handfuls of spinach or take frozen mixed veg in an insulated container to help with those five-a-day. A good dressing can liven up the most boring bag of salad, and you don’t need to take a whole shop-bought bottle. Mix in a small jar before you leave home. Use three parts olive or sunflower oil to one part balsamic or other vinegar, plus a little mustard, and some salt and pepper. Unless you are going to buy fresh while you are away, food destined for the barbecue can be a challenge to keep cold. Pack frozen meat in ice blocks for a little more longevity. Fish and beef take less time and fuel than

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chicken or pork, which need to be safely cooked through. You could skip the meat and do veggie kebabs, or cook potatoes in foil in the embers and top them with cheese or baked beans. For dessert, steam bananas in foil until soft and top with chocolate or honey, or toast marshmallows on skewers.

Wild camping food We cannot emphasise enough the importance of being well fed when you are walking, pedalling or paddling to a wild camping spot. You are going to use lots of energy, and you need to be able to get back safely.

Breakfast

Dried milk powder has a multitude of uses, from putting in your tea or coffee, to mixing with hot or cold water to moisten porridge or muesli. Mix dried egg and dried milk with flour and you have the basis for pancakes, though that means you need to take a pan to fry them in and a small supply of oil. We would take around 125g of dry muesli with 25g of whole dried milk per person for one meal. Put it in a resealable bag which doubles up as a bowl that you can wash, dry and reuse. If you don’t mind carrying a pot or frying pan, eggs are always a good bet to boil or fry for a hot meal, or you could take them hard boiled so they just need peeling in the morning.

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Lunch and snacks

Okay, bear with us on this one, it honestly is tastier than it sounds! For a weather-proof lunch, pack oatcakes and Primula squeezy cheese or a tube of vegetarian pate – Tartex does an organic version. You won’t even need a knife to spread it. John West Lunch on The Go Mediterranean Style Tuna Salad and French Style Tuna Salad are other options we like. A portion of olives, sun-dried tomatoes and nuts is a tasty choice too. Dried fruit-and-nut trail mix or cereal bars make an energy-rich dessert, as

does dried mango. Stash in small bags in hip-belt pockets and eat as you walk, to keep your blood sugar up.

Evening meals

Prepare couscous (see page 62), rice or pasta and add sachets of sauce or some pre-cooked chicken, tuna or veg. Alternatively, buy dehydrated meals and just add boiling water. They are not as cheap as making your own – Mountain Trails cost up to £6.50, Summit to Eat are around £1 cheaper, and Blå Band about £1 more expensive. Take care to stir thoroughly and get right into the corners of the packet or you risk

Marshmallows toasted over a fire or candle flame are the sweetest treat for dessert.

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Make sure you pack all your cooking kit if you are making dinner for one. A vast range of dehydrated meals is on offer for those backpacking and wild camping.

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A LITTLE LUXURY Hot or cold? If you can’t bear to be without proper coffee, buy an Aeropress for around £25. It filters ground coffee, uses compostable papers – take them home to do this, don’t leave them behind – and gives a smooth brew in 30 seconds. If a chilled Pinot Grigio is more your thing, try a Plonk Bottle which promises to keep white wine cold for 24 hours and mulled wine hot for 12. They cost £35.

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getting a mouthful of soggy powder, and place them out of the wind as they rehydrate to keep them extra hot. We recommend taking one or two spare meals in case shops are shut, the pub’s not serving or you decide to change your plans.

Hot drinks

Teabags are an obvious lightweight choice, or you could try a dried tea like Typhoo QT, which even comes with whitener mixed in. Fruit or herbal teas, or powdered soups, are instantlywarming milk-free options. For a sweet treat, hot chocolate sachets are easy to find, as are Kenco or Nescafé instant granules, which come with or without whitener and sugar. If you prefer something a little classier, Taylors of Harrogate does individually-wrapped coffee bags. You could add dried milk but they are good enough to leave black. You obviously need to find a safe source of water if you are not staying on an official site. For more on this, see the Wild Camping chapter, pages 115 to 116.

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To start the morning with proper coffee, remember to pack grounds, filters or bags.

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5

CAR CAMPING

If the thought of backpacking or wild camping leaves you cold, but you still want to enjoy the outdoor life, then your car is your haven. It is your wardrobe, your larder, your changing room, and could even be your

sitting and dining room or, if you are desperate, an extra bedroom. But it is not always as simple as just chucking a bag in the back and setting off. If you don’t like to travel light, you need to be super organised or you will

The best thing about car camping is that you don't have to travel light.

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Some campsites, like Petruth Paddocks in Somerset, allow parking next to your pitch.

spend your holiday searching through stuff for that item you need. If the weather is not kind, your car is your safe, dry, windproof retreat. If you have plenty of food with you, it will also keep the beasties at bay and stop them stealing your scran. It is the place to hide your high-end expensive kit and your dirty laundry. It could also be your refuge if there is a tent disaster – even the most seasoned campers have found themselves running for cover on occasion! But the best thing about car camping is that you can pack what you like and weight isn’t an issue. You have all that lovely storage space, but don’t go mad. You may not be able to park right next to your car, and it

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always seems like you have more stuff on the way home.

Make a list When you put away your kit at home, keep it in a large storage box or two and add a couple of laminated lists. One should detail everything that is in there and ready to lift into the car on your next trip, such as tent, stove, torch, plates and cutlery. The second should list everything you know you need to pack, like sleeping bags, socks, undies, food and waterproofs.

Storage solutions Don’t tell the really serious campers, but having a suitcase in your car definitely makes sense. Your clothes

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Flat-pack trolleys, like Easy Camp’s Transporter range, can carry everything to your tent. Creating an awning can give you lots more living space, and you can personalise it.

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stay flat, clean and dry, no matter what you have thrown on top of it. You are not cluttering up the tent and you don’t even need to take it out of the boot. Leave it be and simply grab what you need on your way to the shower block. Speaking of the ‘look like a proper camper’ goal, no-one needs to know what luxuries you have brought if you transport everything on site in lidded boxes from the car to the privacy of your tent. You may have packed a giant airbed or that floral king-size duvet, but you don’t have to put it on show if you don’t want to. You could invest in a flat-pack trolley to transport everything – festivals have even made them cool. Regatta does one for less than a tenner or you could go upmarket with an Easy Camp one for about £65, or a Decathlon version for around £80.

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Probably the best tip ever Designate one place in your tent for the vital things you don’t want to lose – ideally in one internal pocket near a doorway – and don’t deviate from it. Torch, car keys and a lighter should be in here whenever they are not in use.

TOP TIP

A washing-up bowl will come in handy. Carry your plates, pots, washingup liquid, dishcloth and tea towel across the site, and you don’t need to worry about someone else’s breakfast remnants in the communal sinks. Stacking boxes or trays, like you see in children’s bedrooms or in garages and sheds, are the ideal solution for the super-organised. Dedicate some to clothes, others for bedding, one for toys, more for practical stuff like food, cooking equipment and shoes, and you have a whole storage system in your boot. It also avoids the chaos we have

all seen on big holiday getaways, with cars packed to their roof with hastily slung duvets and pots and pans.

Hide it away Clear out the clutter from the glove box and it becomes your safety deposit box, as well as the place for storing

Set up the perfect storage system by stacking boxes in your car boot.

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essentials you can’t be without. Keep a torch, spare batteries, lighter and corkscrew or bottle opener in there, and hide away your valuables, like your watch and wallet, while you head off for a shower. Alternatively, a small

sandwich box under the passenger seat will do the same job. Footwells are a great place to stash shoes and the like, but you could fill the space with slimline plastic boxes. Not only will they help with storage

You can take your home comforts to crazy proportions when space isn’t an issue!

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but they will give you an extra few centimetres of space if you have an estate car and are planning to drop the seats so someone can sleep in the back.

Make some space The majority of awnings are designed for use with campervans and caravans, but there are a few ways you can bridge the gap between car and tent and give yourself a bit more space under cover, if you are allowed to park beside your pitch. The easiest solution is a pop-up gazebo, available from every outdoor shop in the land, or an even cheaper option is a standard lightweight tarpaulin. Trap it in the top of your car doors and extend it across to your tent, then prop with a couple of sturdy poles and steady it with some guy ropes. If you are looking for something a little more professional, the US company Kingcamp does a shelter that hooks around your vehicle’s rear wheels, sits above your boot and extends through a dome-like roof. It is available online for about £70.

Stay cool You could pack a traditional cool box to keep your food chilled for a day or so, but because weight isn’t an issue when you are camping by car, why not splash out on a fridge? Outwell does a 50-litre one that even has a freezer compartment, though

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CHEAP HACK Magic carpets Specialist tent carpets are great for when you want to kick off your shoes and not soak your socks, but they don’t come cheap. Have a look for waterproof interlocking floor tiles instead. You can clip them into whatever layout you like for the main routes in and out of the tent, or put them where you are reclining in your camping chair. Halfords does a colourful set measuring 1m by 2m for less than £20. Hose them down when you get home and they will be good to go again.

it will set you back nearly £500. For a cheaper option, Halfords has a 14-litre box for approximately £50, which can also be used to keep food warm. Both work on 12v power from your car or can be used with an adaptor if you have a pitch with an electric hook-up.

Warm up A windbreak does more than stop the breeze blowing out your camping stove and prevent an icy blast cutting through the tent – it is the way to keep your kids and pets contained, and gives some privacy from the neighbours. You can buy portable heaters to take the chill off your space and some of them double up as fans for hot summer nights. Outwell does the Katla camping heater for around £40, which has a trip switch for safety. Never use a gas heater inside a tent or you will risk carbon monoxide

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poisoning. For the same reason, never, ever, be tempted to bring the embers of a barbecue inside – people have died doing this.

Home comforts You can keep things as simple and low-cost as you want, sitting on the floor and using an upturned plastic crate as a dining table, or

using deckchairs and folding garden furniture from home. Or you can splash out on as much speciallydesigned camping kit as your budget allows and your heart desires. From inflatable three-piece suites to ingenious storage solutions and kitchen gadgets, the sky is the limit when it comes to equipping your tent. Basically, if you can imagine it, chances are it

Traditional gazebos or posh pop-ups, like the Alvantor Bubble Tent, offer extra space.

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already exists and is on sale in camping shops or over the internet. The Alvantor Bubble Tent is definitely one up on a standard gazebo. Its perfectly clear dome means you can stay dry and out of the wind, and not miss out on the people-watching, but it will cost nearly £400. An Outwell inflatable sofa starts at around £115, though cheaper versions are available from the likes of Vango and Argos. Outwell also does practical kitchen tables, ideal for putting a stove on top,

with your larder below. The Camrose model is the flashiest, priced at around £150. For real foodie luxury, the Ooni Fyra pizza oven starts at around £250 – but you will need plenty of space to transport it. Hanging storage is one way to ensure everyone stays organised, and keeps your stuff away from beasties and damp floors. Ikea’s Fangst compartments will dangle from a pole and only cost a few pounds – they fold away when not in use.

Taking a full range of kitchen equipment is easy when you can load up the car.

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Bring bin bags Chucking wet and dirty laundry – and even a soggy tent – into bin bags is a speedy way to transport them home. Just don’t mix that bag up with the rubbish you intend to leave in the site’s wheelie bin…

A good old-fashioned hot water bottle is one luxury you can’t be without. From soothing aching legs after a long walk, to snuggling up under a rug after dinner for some al fresco drinks, or to thaw out a chilly sleeping bag and pyjamas

before bedtime – particularly if you are camping with children – it is a must-have. To really personalise your pitch and bring a little taste of home, strings of fairy lights powered by a USB battery pack and some citronella candles – kept well away from tent sides – are both pretty and practical. Waterproof rugs are a way to keep mud out of your tent and double up as play mats for the little ones. A little dustpan and brush are ideal for keeping the interior clean.

Even a wardrobe isn’t out of the question when you have plenty of packing space.

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Dining out is easy if you can fit a table and chairs into the car, trailer or roofbox. Strings of solar-powered fairy lights will light your pitch and delight the children.

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Waterproof dog beds, like this one from the Big Dog Bed Company, protect your car too. Loos, showers and awnings are easy to transport if you can park close to your tent.

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Weather-beating tips A decent length of heavy-duty cord and a handful of pegs should be permanently in your car camping kit. From replacing snapped guy ropes and tying down the deckchairs in windy weather, to tethering the dog and stopping it soaking your bedding, or creating a quick washing line, this is something you can’t do without. String it between the grab handles above the car’s rear doors and you can drape your wet clothes there – although adding a waterproof sheet below is a good idea. Dog covers are useful for more than just protecting your car from your pooch – in fact, you don’t even have to own a dog. If you don’t want to spoil your interiors with wet and muddy camp kit, install these before leaving home. You can buy all sorts of fancy coat hangers that hook onto your seat backs, but simply looping the hood or collar of your jacket over the headrests does a good enough job. The drips land in the footwells so seats stay dry. Those dog guards between the boot and the rear seats are great as somewhere to dry wet socks, hats and gloves, or add hooks to give a whole wall of storage space. Cool boxes are brilliant for more than just storing chilled food. An inexpensive version is a godsend

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A LITTLE LUXURY Bathroom bliss Can’t bear the thought of a shared shower block or want to be able to keep clean when you are camping somewhere without facilities? How about your own personal shower cubicle, complete with hot running water? The majority of showers on the market are solar powered and their capacity isn’t huge, but if you are quick you can enjoy a proper wash in hot water. However, you can get a plusher version. The Joolca Hottap is a mini water pump and heater which costs around £300. It runs off propane gas and gives a 50°c shower. The power comes from a battery or your car’s lighter socket. Joolca’s private shower tent costs around £100, though you can pick up a cheaper version elsewhere for less than £20. The tent could double up as a private loo too. The cheapest versions come with a frame and bags to catch the waste for around £20, with the more conventional flushable versions, like the Thetford Porta Potti, from about £50. Add a duck board on the floor so you are not standing in the mud – Amazon sells them for under £15.

if your kit is soggy when you leave the campsite. The chances are you will have eaten all the food you brought, so pack your damp tent and waterproofs in it to keep the car dry between locations or on your homeward journey. A 24-litre Campos one sells for around £15, with Thermos freezer blocks adding about £10.

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6

FAMILY CAMPING

Camping with the family should be idyllic – ‘quality time’ away from the gadgets and trappings of home, enjoying the simple pleasures of watching the sun go down, cooking outdoors and toasting marshmallows over a candle flame, as tired children and dogs snuggle under cosy rugs, ready for sleep and looking forward to doing it all again tomorrow.

But the reality – particularly if the British weather isn’t kind – can be very different. Cold, fractious, tired children, and equally unhappy parents or grandparents, don’t make for a relaxing time. So how can you plan ahead and make life as easy, and as fun, as possible? This is one camping

Be prepared for everything when you are camping with children – you won’t pack light!

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challenge that is definitely all about the preparation.

Have a trial run Turning up at a campsite, miles from home, and realising you have forgotten something crucial is a nightmare, so how about pitching in the garden for a night to check you have everything you need? Make it a rule that you are only allowed inside to use the loo or get fresh water, and switch off the wifi to discourage everyone from taking a sneaky look at their emails, social media or games. You will be able to work out who is sleeping where, where to store everything, and what practical stuff you need. Make a list and add to it every time someone suggests popping back indoors for something missing from your kit.

Don’t pack light! You need to be ready for every eventuality and if that means getting a towbar fitted to the car so you can take a trailer, or buying that roofbox you pledged would never grace your vehicle, just do it. The kids, and the dog, will thank you for a little more space in the car – and you will be able to see out of your rearview mirror. Staying as warm and dry as possible is your top priority. Temperatures can drop dramatically at night, so take plenty of layers of clothing. It is even wise to take woolly hats and wellies in

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Woolly hats and paperbacks are two things not to forget on a family camping trip.

the summer, along with the high-factor sunscreen and sun hats. Don’t try to juggle an armful of clothes and toiletries on the way to the shower block – a huge blue Ikea bag is an easier option and you can hang it pretty much anywhere. If you are really organised, pack an individual bag of clean clothes for every day you are there, so you are not

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Phone a friend If you are the parent of an only child, or only one of the kids is coming with you, how about taking their friend too? A ready-made playmate means safety in numbers for them and more time to relax for you – all for the price of a little more food and drink.

Picnic rugs with waterproof backing make a great place to sit and play outside, as well as doubling as a carpet inside. You can put them under sleep mats or airbeds at bedtime for an extra layer of insulation too.

Turn chores into contests

TOP TIP

Who can pump up their airbed the quickest? Who can hammer in the most tent pegs? Who is the fastest to fill their water bottle? Even washing up doesn’t feel like so much of a hassle when you are away – let one child wash while another dries.

Play out!

searching for those elusive socks and undies. Plastic boxes are perfect for keeping clothes dry, and as laundry baskets for wet and muddy kit, keeping the tent and car clean too. Even wearing a headtorch, no-one enjoys a walk to the toilet block in the dark, so pack a bucket for night-time tinkles, and don’t forget some slip-on shoes to remove at the door so noone treks wet grass and mess into the tent.

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Even if you are planning to spend most of your time away from the tent, there will still be some hours to fill. Swingball is ideal, as it means you won’t be chasing stray balls all over the site and it doesn’t take up much space in the car. If you are sheltering indoors, magnetic games, dominoes, Jenga or even a jigsaw on one of those roll-up mats will be a great distraction. A treasure hunt is a good free game too – task them with finding something to fit letters of the alphabet, or search for stones and leaves in specific shapes. Or, if you are near a stream or river, how about a game of Pooh sticks? Spread the cost of your daily excursions by booking visitor attractions in advance, and look out for

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Headtorches are vital for trips to the toilet block, and nocturnal adventures.

things like local tourist board loyalty schemes, which can cut the price of admission.

Feeding time Don’t forget the snacks and some easy wins like cereal and fruit. Milk can be kept fresh in an insulated flask. If you have booked a pitch with an electric hook-up, you could bring some

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real home comforts like the slow cooker or a mini fridge or cooler. Prepare as much food as you can in advance so it is simply a matter of reheating or laying out a buffet. If you are not allowed a campfire to toast those marshmallows, don’t despair. Pack some tealights instead and put them in lanterns to illuminate your picnic area.

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Play out, make dens, get mucky, hide and seek, take nature trails – it is an exciting world.

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Who needs toys and games when you find yourself on a campsite full of sticks?

CHEAP HACK Have a little Patience! A simple pack of playing cards is every camper’s must-have item. Ideal if you are stuck inside, great for when the conversation wanes, and the perfect distraction for the children when you are trying to make the tea.

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Don’t forget to pack the snacks – they’re a distraction if nothing else!

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Eat up and then share the chores – it will help keep everyone occupied.

CHEAP HACK Bring a bear Take your child’s favourite soft toy along for the ride – and use it as a way to keep the tent tidy too. If the kids make their beds in the morning, Teddy can sleep there all day and then be ready to look after them all night. This is a trick that is tried and tested on Scout camps – they know what they are talking about!

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Some locations allow open fires for marshmallow toasting as a special treat.

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And so to bed… If you are camping with a baby or very young children, pick the area of the campsite where you are least likely to be disturbed by passing cars or pedestrians. A friendly chat with your neighbours with a gift of some earplugs can be a nice gesture too. A portable travel cot has multiple uses – a place to sleep at night, a play pen at the beach or lakeshore during the day, and somewhere to drape wet waterproofs when it is not in use as a bed. Make sure you can attach a sunshade and mosquito net for the most comfort.

A LITTLE LUXURY Breath of fresh air For the fastest possible pitching, invest in an air tent. No scrabbling around to find the right poles for the right holes – they have inflatable ‘beams’ which are filled using a pump. Some, like those made by Coleman, have blackout bedrooms too, so hopefully your littlest campers will allow you a bit of a lie in. Find out more in the Tents and Shelters chapter, pages 29 to 30.

Make up a flask of hot water at bedtime so you are not forced to boil a kettle in the dark if emergency clean ups or feeds are needed in the early hours, or you want to refill a hot water bottle.

Four-legged campers

Take a mix of bedding – sheets, mats, sleeping bags or duvets – for cosy nights in.

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Letting the dog snuggle up to your sleeping bag could keep both of you warm, but it is not pleasant if they got drenched on the last walk. There are some great raised bed options, such as mesh platforms from HiK9, and waterproof car cushions – The Big Dog Bed Company makes them bespoke to fit any vehicle. They dry easily and keep your pooch and their blankets away from draughts. A screw-in spike that you can attach a long lead to is a must if your dog shows even a hint of heading off to enjoy someone else’s breakfast, and don’t forget to keep poo bags handy at the entrance to the tent so you are never caught short.

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Four-legged campers are part of the family but plan their sleeping spot carefully.

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BACKPACKING If you are stepping out with your camping gear on your back, weight and bulk are everything. A rucksack that is too heavy or doesn’t fit will only become more uncomfortable as the kilometres clock up, so making informed choices about what – and how – to pack and what to leave out are vital. To avoid adding to the weight on your shoulders with worries about sore feet, it is also important to plan properly, be confident of your ability to find your way and to wear the right footwear for the weather and terrain.

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how fit you are, walking with a full pack – even a lightweight one – is very different from going for a hike unladen or with just a sandwich and waterproof in a daysack. Choose an easy-to-follow, waymarked route or one you already know that isn’t overly taxing. Don’t overestimate the distance you can Carrying all your camping kit in a rucksack gives a tremendous sense of freedom.

How to start If you haven’t been backpacking before, make your first trip with someone who knows the ropes. If you don’t know anyone, join an organisation such as the Backpackers’ Club (www.backpackersclub. co.uk) which runs regular walking and camping weekends across the UK. If you are determined to go it alone, start with a single night away or, at most, a weekend to test out your gear, knowledge and stamina. No matter

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Rule out rummaging A set of Tread Lite Gear (www.treadlitegear.co.uk) zipped packing cells, made of strong, feather-light Dyneema Composite Fabric (DCF) will keep clothes, food and other items safe, dry and organised in your rucksack and tent so nothing ever gets mislaid. Prices range from under £15 for washbags and small pouches to around £35 for roomier packing cells.

reasonably cover in the time available, and stay at a campsite overnight, so you don’t have to worry about finding a suitable place to pitch. Build up gradually to longer trips and wild camps – see the Wild Camping chapter, pages 105 to 117.

Planning your trip Bookshops and websites such as that of The Long Distance Walkers Association (www.ldwa.org.uk) are excellent sources of information about longer routes, National Trails including the Pennine Way, West Highland Way and Coast-to-Coast, and events such as the annual trans-Scotland TGO Challenge walk. If you are not used to carrying a load, be especially kind to yourself. Backpacking is meant to be a pleasant experience not a militarystyle route march. If you have any serious health concerns, check first with your doctor.

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Most reasonably fit adults who aren’t overburdened can cover 15km to 20km a day on flattish, non-boggy ground with decent paths. Make sure you also know where you can leave the route to find a B&B, hostel or public transport in case you are unwell or have a gear problem or some other mishap, and never be afraid to cut the journey short and head for home. It is much better to continue a route later, when you can enjoy it, than to press on and be miserable. If you are going off the beaten track, check that paths, bridges and other river crossings shown on maps still exist. Finding alternatives can add unwelcome kilometres to a day. Local campsites, walking groups and tourist offices can be useful sources of up-todate information. Review the weather forecast before leaving home. If it doesn’t look good, think seriously about altering the route or postponing. If your route takes you

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Participants in the annual TGO Challenge cross Scotland, from coast to coast, unsupported. To avoid getting lost in remote terrain, be sure you know how to use a map and compass.

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A lightweight tarp shelter, such as this one from Robens, is ideal for backpack camping.

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into the hills or mountains, plan a lower level, foul weather alternative in case conditions deteriorate while you are out.

Eating and drinking For tips on lightweight meals that will fill you up, see the Cooking and Eating chapter, pages 63 to 67. If you don’t plan to carry food and water for the whole trip, you need to be certain about where to get supplies. Again, call before leaving home to make sure shops, cafés or pubs in isolated areas will be open. For longer expeditions, you can send yourself resupply boxes to await collection at post offices and campsite

receptions. But contact them before posting to confirm they are happy to take these and when they will be open. You don’t want to arrive footsore and hungry to find the business holding your meals for the next few days just closed for the weekend. To ensure you never run out of drinking water, carry a micro filter such as a Katadyn BeFree or Sawyer Mini or Squeeze. For more on these, see the Wild Camping chapter, pages 115 to 116.

Map or app? You may think you know a route like the back of your hand, but always carry a map and compass and be clear on how to use them. It is surprisingly easy to

Trekking rucksacks from manufacturers such as Vango come in various capacities.

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get lost if you are tired, the weather is poor or the light is fading, and you may need to make an unexpected detour. If uncertain of your navigation abilities, sign up for a course such as those run by the BMC (British Mountaineering Council), Mountaineering Scotland or outdoor activity centres. You can also teach yourself using a navigation manual, but practise on short walks before committing to a full-scale trip. Even if you plan to use an app, such as Outdooractive, TopoGPS or OS Maps, to check your progress, you must have a paper map and a compass as backup in case you lose GPS signal or the device fails. And make sure the map data for the route is fully updated and downloaded for off-line use before setting out.

Where to stay Choose your overnight stops as part of the planning process before leaving home, so you always have somewhere suitable lined up. When you are new to backpacking, the facilities and company available at

CHEAP HACK Wipe the floor – and walls A rectangle of sturdy plastic sheeting weighing less than 30g makes an excellent tent doormat and doubles as a packing sheet when striking camp, while J Cloths have a multitude of uses from hankies to tent drying.

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a campsite can be very welcome at the end of the day. Contact campsites well in advance to check they will be open and, if necessary, book a pitch. If you are not going to make it, call and cancel so they can offer the pitch to someone else. Wild camping is free and offers the joys of solitude, but there are no hot showers, toilets or campsite shops – and you can’t just stop anywhere. See the Wild Camping chapter, pages 105 to 110, for where it is permissible to pitch. Mark possible camping locations on your map or app so you have clear targets to aim for, but be prepared to walk further if a site turns out to be unsuitable, or to stop short if you are tired or the weather turns nasty. If you are on a tight schedule, you will need to adjust the next day’s distance accordingly, so it is wise to leave a bit of slack in the timetable. Don’t worry if this means arriving early at your camp – it is a lot better than getting there after dark, exhausted and hungry.

Selecting a rucksack For a single night or weekend trip, a 35-litre rucksack should hold everything you need. For longer trips, 55-60 litres ought to be enough, unless you are going round the world or heading somewhere extreme that requires specialist kit. Rucksacks come in different back lengths and some manufacturers have

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women-specific models. Whether you are buying or borrowing a sack, it must fit properly. Many leading outdoor retailers offer a fitting service. Osprey has a useful pack-sizer app. An empty sack can be surprisingly heavy, so try not to take one that is significantly bigger than you need. The lighter the rucksack, the easier it will be to walk with. Often the cheapest brands are the heaviest, so it is worth paying a bit more for one that is lighter, such as those from Osprey, Berghaus and Montane. Aim for less than 1kg and expect to pay upwards of £150. Ultralight packs made by specialist firms like Gossamer Gear and Atom Packs can weigh as little as 350g. For a night or two away, it isn’t essential to have a rucksack with a frame, although it will better distribute the weight between your hips and shoulders. For longer trips, when you are carrying 10kg and over, a frame or internal support is a necessity. Whatever the size of pack and loaded weight, you should have a hip belt and chest strap – and use both. Adjust the shoulder straps so the belt sits on your hip bones and they take around 80 per cent of the weight. When tightened, it should feel secure but not restrictive. Set the chest strap so the shoulder straps don’t dig into your armpits. To ensure important items such as warm clothing and your sleeping

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bag stay dry in all weathers, use a lightweight rucksack liner – if you are carrying an inflatable mat, the pump bag will be ideal – and if the sack didn’t come with a rainproof cover, buy one.

Rucksacks for dogs No – we don’t mean the ones you put puppies or ageing pets in to spare their tired legs. We mean the panniers they can use to carry their own kit! A huge range is available, from day packs to bigger sets for longer trips. Some even have handles to lift them over stiles. Choose carefully so it doesn’t stretch or rub, and has the right lead attachment for your dog, whether you prefer a harness or a collar. The maximum carrying weight should be about 15 per cent of the dog’s bodyweight, but pack as light as possible. Expect to pay between £50 and £100.

What to pack When it comes to backpacking, kitchen and bathroom scales are your best friends – the former for weighing individual items, the latter for checking overall pack weight. Ultralight backpackers aim for a base weight – which includes everything except consumables such as food, water and fuel – of 4.5kg or less. If you are going lightweight, expect to carry 7kg plus consumables. Trail or pack weight is everything you are carrying on your back, including consumables. A typical trail weight for

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Specialist manufacturers like Osprey and Gossamer Gear make lightweight sacks.

a multi-day trip, with resupply boxes or shopping stops, is 9kg to 12kg. This isn’t a lot, but it is perfectly achievable with good planning and the right equipment, and even this relatively light weight will seem enough to carry over the course of several days,

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especially once you add drinking water. As you become fitter, and if you are sleeping well and eating properly, it should start to feel lighter, particularly as you will be using up food and fuel. If you need to invest in lighter gear, Ultralight Outdoor Gear (www.

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ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk) and, for second-hand kit, the Outdoor Gear Exchange UK Facebook group, are excellent starting points. With a trail weight of 10kg, expect to include a tent or other shelter plus groundsheet and pegs, a sleeping mat, bag, liner and pillow, a stove, fuel, snacks and dried meals for up to five days. This will also include drinking water and filter, spare clothing, rainwear, a first-aid kit including tick removal card and insect repellent, a phone or other communication device, map and compass, wash kit and micro towel.

You can’t expect to carry tinned food, bottled beer, multiple changes of clothes such as pyjamas or evening wear, spare shoes, paperbacks or a hair dryer – trust us, none of these are necessary for an enjoyable trip!

How to pack When it comes to packing, remember that whatever goes in first, will come out last. Pack your sleep system at the bottom of the liner or pump bag, starting with the sleeping bag. Leave its stuff sack behind and simply shove it in, squeezing out as much air as possible.

With a rucksack of its own, your dog can carry its food, bowl and bedding.

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If you have an inflatable mat, get rid of as much air as you can and fold so it will sit neatly against the back, or in the internal bladder pocket, of the sack. For food, clothes and other items use Ziploc reusable bags, or invest in a set of ultralight packing cells (see Top Tip on page 92). Your food, fuel and stove are likely to be your heaviest items, so pack these next, allowing them to sit towards the middle of your back, with spongebag, towel and spare clothes on top. Use the outside pockets for your tent or shelter, if these won’t fit inside, plus poles and pegs, walking poles, waterproof jacket and trousers or

poncho, water bottle, water filter and other items you want easy access to as you walk, such as map and compass, cash, phone, snacks, warm hat or cap and gloves or sunglasses and sunscreen.

Footwear and care Unless you have ankle problems that require support, or conditions are likely to be especially wet or muddy, there is no reason to walk in traditional boots. Even supposedly lightweight pairs can weigh close to 1kg – equivalent, in terms of the energy expended lifting them, to an extra 5kg in your pack. A pair of light, flexible approach or trail shoes with good grippy soles,

When it comes to packing for a truly lightweight adventure, kitchen scales are essential.

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a well-fitted heel cup and plenty of room for the toes to spread in all directions – such as those made by Altra and Topo costing about £120 – are cooler, less likely to cause blisters and will dry out far more quickly if they get wet. Traditional heavyweight walking socks are not necessary either. Layer a couple of thin, wicking bamboo pairs without potentially irritating seams, or invest in specialist lightweight hiking socks from a

A LITTLE LUXURY Let the van take the strain If packing light isn’t your thing, or you simply don’t fancy racking up the miles with a large rucksack on your back, don’t despair. Luggage services such as Sherpa Van (www.sherpavan. com) will take the weight off your shoulders on many of the UK’s most popular long-distance walking routes, picking up your rucksack in the morning and dropping it off at your next campsite ready for your arrival. Prices start from around £10 a day.

With planning, you can get everything for a multi-day trip into a pack weighing just 10kg.

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Trail shoes, like these Altras and Topos, weigh far less than traditional boots.

manufacturer like Darn Tough. They cost around £25 but come with a guarantee of free replacements if they wear out. In rainy or boggy conditions, just add a pair of lightweight spats and waterproof socks, such as the warm weather ankle-length version made by Sealskinz, retailing at about £25. Blisters can ruin your trip. If you feel a hot spot that warns something is amiss, stop immediately and take pre-emptive action. Remove any debris from the shoe or sock, stick a Compeed blister plaster on the affected area, and continue happy in

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the knowledge that disaster has been averted. Unless you are travelling a very short distance on flat terrain, invest in a pair of lightweight walking poles, such as Alpkit’s Carbonlite. They are about £65 a pair and your feet, ankles and knees will thank you. When you stop at the end of each day, as soon as your tent or shelter is up, reward your long-suffering feet with some TLC. A quick massage with Gerlachs Gehwol Extra foot cream, or similar, and a change of socks, will leave them relaxed and tingling.

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Walking with a pair of lightweight poles takes the pressure off knees and ankles.

CHECKLIST Five days away for 10kg

Sheltering

This list, including some suggested lightweight equipment brands, contains everything you should need for a fiveday backpacking trip. For a single night away, stripping out four days of food and some of the spare clothing will reduce the pack weight considerably.

One-person tent (Tarptent Notch Li), groundsheet, pegs – 0.7kg

Carrying

Eating

Rucksack (Gossamer Gear Silverback with roll-top) and dirt/rain cover (Ayacucho) – 0.95kg

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Sleeping

Sleeping bag (Cumulus Lite Line 300), mat (Sea To Summit Ether Lite XT), pump bag, silk liner, pillow (Sea To Summit Aeros) and cover (neck warmer) – 1.1kg Stove and pot (Jetboil MicroMo), gas, long-handled titanium spoon, collapsible cup (Sea To Summit) – 0.65kg

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Supplies for five days (tea/coffee bags, muesli with milk powder, oatcakes, Primula cheese or Tartex veggie paté, cereal bars, dried fruit, dehydrated main meals – see the Cooking and Eating chapter, pages 63 to 67) – 3kg

Drinking

Water (600ml Smartwater bottle), filter and collection/storage bottle (Katadyn BeFree 1ltr) – 0.7kg

Clothing

Waterproof sleeved poncho (Quechua), warm jacket (Patagonia Micro Puff), lightweight fleece, base layer, leggings/ trousers, underwear, socks (Darn Tough and Sealskinz), beany or cap and thin gloves – 1.9kg

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Using

Spongebag and first aid (toothbrush, toothpaste, soap, deodorant, J Cloth, painkillers, daily meds, insect repellent/midge net, foot cream, blister and sticking plasters, sunscreen, etc) – 0.3kg Other items (cash and cards, phone, mains and solar chargers, map and compass, small headtorch, sunglasses, toilet kit, sit mat, sleep mat repair kit, mini sewing kit, small penknife) – 0.7kg Total weight 10kg

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WILD CAMPING True wild camping is about travelling light to beautiful, out-of-the-way places and leaving no trace when you head back, refreshed, to everyday life. It is an opportunity to get away from crowds and stress, to watch a glorious sunset, sleep under a canopy of twinkling stars or witness the sunrise with a soundtrack courtesy of Mother Nature. Sadly, wild camping has had a bad press recently thanks to fly campers – vandals who blight the landscape with trashed and abandoned kit, litter, human waste and potentially devastating fires. We know it doesn’t have to be this way and true wild campers will be welcomed again – simply for the fact most people will never know they were there. Before you start packing the rucksack, there are a few things to consider, not least where you can go safely and stay on the right side of the law. Remember, in the UK, all land belongs to someone, however remote the pitch you choose.

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technically illegal. However, in practice, there is still plenty of scope for spending the night away from official campsites. Shake off the stresses of life and sleep in glorious isolation, under a canopy of stars.

The legal position In England, Wales and Northern Ireland, wild camping on private land is

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You can wild camp anywhere if you have the landowner’s permission. Sometimes it is possible to get this in advance. On other occasions, you might simply stumble upon a perfect pitch. If you don’t know who the land belongs to, try asking politely at the nearest house. If you hit on the right people, they could say yes, offer to supply food or water, or direct you to an even better spot. But put yourself in their shoes: if you are told no, be prepared to move on with good grace. One of the most popular areas in England is the Lake District National Park. Here, landowners may tolerate wild camping, provided you stick to the

high fells, stay out of sight and leave not so much as an apple core behind. Wild camping is allowed in parts of Dartmoor National Park as long as you stick to the rules. Campervans, motorhomes, family-size tents and large groups are banned. Only small tents are permitted, all equipment must be carried in on foot, and the maximum stay is two nights. You must pitch out of sight, in a designated area, at least 100 metres from the road, and leave nothing behind. Fires and barbecues are prohibited. For details of where you can and can’t spend the night on Dartmoor, see the wild camping page at www. dartmoor.gov.uk.

Wild camping is about spending the night in out-of-the-way places and keeping it simple.

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Elsewhere in England, Wales and Northern Ireland, many farmers and other landowners offer ‘nearly wild camping’ in tents and other shelters in areas that are wilder, more secluded or quieter than traditional campsites. Find out more at the Nearly Wild Camping Club (www.nearlywildcamping.org). Membership, which includes access to its list of sites, costs around £25 a year.

Your rights in Scotland The Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 gave statutory access rights to most of Scotland’s outdoors, including hills and moors, forests and woods, beaches and

the coast, rivers and lochs, parks and some types of farmland, meaning wild camping is legal. However, these rights must be exercised responsibly with respect for people’s privacy, safety, livelihoods and the environment. The way to do this is explained in the Scottish Outdoor Access Code (www.outdooraccessscotland.scot). It states that wild camping must be lightweight and done in small numbers. You must arrive at your pitch on foot – access rights don’t apply to vehicles – there is a maximum stay of two or three nights in any one place, and you must

In Scotland, responsible wild camping, in line with the Outdoor Access Code, is legal.

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Let there be light A headtorch is a must, even in summer. You might arrive later than planned or need to leave during the night. At just 25g, the tiny Petzl e+lite, available for around £25, weighs less than a third of most standard models.

Managed camping zones operate around Loch Lomond and the Trossachs.

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leave no trace in the form of litter, fire residues or other pollution. You should pitch well away from enclosed fields of crops, farm animals, buildings, roads and historic structures, and take extra care not to disturb deer stalking or grouse shooting. If you want to camp close to a house or building, you should seek the owner’s permission. The notable exception to these rules is in the Camping Management Zones of the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. Here, from 1 March to 30 September, wild camping is limited to designated areas and you must have a

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Carry the right kit – brands such as Robens have a wide range for all conditions.

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Ward off the chill Even in the height of summer, pack spare socks and cosy headgear. If you came by car, leave drinking water, a towel and fresh, warm clothes in the boot – your drive home will be far more pleasant.

permit to pitch. Permits cost £3 per night per tent and only a limited number are available. You can book for up to three nights in one area, and this can be done up to four weeks in advance. You can then pitch anywhere within your permit area, provided it is after 1pm and you leave by 11am on your departure date. To purchase a permit, see the camping section of www. lochlomond-trossachs.org.

The unwritten rules Whichever country you choose, there are a few key things you can do to help keep everyone happy:

• Pitch late, leave early and aim for • • • •

a spot where no-one will know you are there. Camp above the highest fence line or wall, away from fields, footpaths, buildings and livestock. Resist the temptation of low-level lakeshores and riverbanks. Make no noise and leave no trace – no mess and no fire damage. If someone was there before you and left their rubbish, give something back by cleaning it up if it is safe to do so.

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Pick the right spot If you haven’t got somewhere in mind, word of mouth, social media, websites and magazines could be key to discovering a wild camping idyll. Search YouTube for potential destinations then find them on Google maps for a panoramic view – in the map’s ‘Layers’ box, choose ‘Satellite’ view, then under the ‘More’ option select ‘Street view’. Switch on the photo options and click on the little blue bubbles for close-up views of possible pitches. This is a great way to find parking places too.

Keep yourself safe No matter how confident you are when it comes to route finding, never rely on memory, instinct or a phone app. Always carry a map and compass. If you are not sure how to use these, sign up for a navigation course run by a mountaineering organisation, outdoor centre or qualified professional. Leave your route and an indication of when you plan to return with someone trustworthy. Agree how long they will wait before raising the alarm, and remember to let them know when you are back safely or if your plans change, so the emergency services aren’t called without good reason. Always check the weather before you set off and, if you don’t like the look of the forecast, be prepared to postpone or alter your destination.

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Create your own first-aid kit or personalise a ready-made one with your essentials. Pitch on dry, flat, grassy ground away from low-lying areas, riverbanks and cliff edges.

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CHEAP HACK Invest in a poncho Even for a one-night wild camp, if there is any risk of rain, waterproofs are a must. Being drenched drains body heat, potentially leaving you unable to walk out and in need of rescue. No-one is suggesting a lightweight Quechua poncho with hood and sleeves, costing around £20, is a flattering garment, but it is half the weight of a jacket and trousers, less sweaty, and does away with the need for a rucksack cover.

Make sure you have the right footwear, clothes and kit for the conditions, including – depending on the time of year – waterproofs, warm clothing, sunglasses and high-factor sunscreen. You should also have a fully charged phone, headtorch, spare fuel, lighter or waterproof matches, and a first-aid kit. For more details, see the Essentials Checklist, pages 11 to 14, and the Backpacking chapter, pages 91 to 104.

Pitching perfectly Dry, flat, grassy ground will give you the best bed for the night. Press the toe of your shoe into the grass to check for hidden dampness. Moss can look perfectly dry on top but be saturated underneath even in high summer, making for a soggy and chilly experience. Low-lying areas can be particularly cold, damp, boggy and buggy. Higher ground tends to catch the sun and a bit of breeze, making it warmer and more likely to be insect-free. You will get the views, and the morning sun will wake you up and dry any rain or condensation from the tent at the same time. Don’t pitch under trees, particularly if it is likely to be windy, while trying to sleep next to a river or waterfall makes for a noisy night – and if it rains heavily, you could have a flood to contend with. Always stay well away from cliff edges and steep slopes, however good the vista. Get up in the night and lose your bearings and it could be the last trip you ever make.

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Pros and cons of fires

Dealing with rubbish

Many people see the romance of sitting by an open fire as an essential part of camping, but when it comes to cooking, modern camping stoves are far more efficient and reliable. See the Cooking and Eating chapter, pages 54 to 59. The environmental risk posed by lighting open fires when wild camping is huge. A single spark can cause widespread devastation to land and livelihoods. Even when fires are well managed and carefully extinguished, collecting wood for fuel disrupts valuable wildlife and plant habitats, and you can’t always be sure when a fire is out. Peaty soils retain heat and may flare up again later. For these reasons, we don’t recommend open fires, but if you insist:

This should go without saying, but we will say it anyway: never leave any litter of any kind. This includes fruit skins and apple cores. It may be no surprise to learn wet wipes will take up to 100 years to decompose, but you might be shocked to know that it can be three years before banana skins disappear. In the meantime, they and other food residues can harm local ecosystems and spread pesticide contamination.

• Never light one during a • • • •

prolonged dry period, and avoid forests, woods, farmland and peaty ground. Choose hard ground, such as rocks or sand, that won’t be vulnerable to scorch marks. Carry your own fuel and never add any kind of accelerant. Ensure the fire is small, kept under control at all times and never left unattended. Double check that it is fully extinguished and remove all traces before you leave, returning any rocks used to where you found them.

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Going to the toilet Having a pee in the outdoors presents no great difficulty. Pick a discreet spot away from your campsite, at least 50 metres from paths and buildings, lakes, rivers and streams. If you use loo paper, it needs to be bagged and taken with you or buried, not left for animals or

A LITTLE LUXURY Pump up the volume For some, wild camping is all about the silence, but others love lying under the stars listening to music or an audio book. Ensure you have a full battery and, for longer trips, a method of recharging. If money is no object, pack some great mini headphones. For around £130 try Android and Apple-compatible 1MORE Quad Driver In-Ear phones. They are wired so don’t need recharging, are harder to lose than Bluetooth buds and combine ergonomic fit with beautifully balanced sound.

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Don’t be a rubbish camper – real wild campers never leave litter or cause fire damage. Pooing in the wild means digging a hole and disposing of waste properly – carry a kit.

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other people to find. Wash your hands or use sanitiser afterwards. Pooing takes more preparation, and every wild camper should carry a poo kit, even on a single night stay. This should include more biodegradable loo paper than you think you will need, bags (Ziploc, nappy sacks or dog poo ones are perfect), sanitiser and an implement for digging. No matter how remote the spot, all human excrement must be buried in a hole at least 15cm deep – that is roughly the length of your hand. To avoid mishaps, make the hole wider than you expect to need! You can buy special lightweight trowels. The Deuce of Spades, which costs around £20, weighs just 17g, but for about the same weight and a quarter of the price, a robust, drilled

aluminium tent peg, such as the MSR Blizzard, is just as good. Poo in the hole and drop in the loo paper, or bag it up to take away. All wet wipes and sanitary products must be bagged and removed, not buried. If you don’t want to use paper, moss or other carefully chosen plant material can be just as effective, but check for insects first, and it also needs to be buried after use. Finally, refill the hole with the excavated soil, then wash your hands or sanitise.

Safe drinking water Water is heavy, so – unless there is a risk you won’t find enough – carry in only your immediate needs. This should be at least 600ml in a reusable bottle or bladder, but don’t wait until it is running low to start looking for fresh supplies.

Any water that isn’t from a tap needs to be boiled, sterilised or filtered.

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Unless it comes from a reliable tap, all water, no matter how clear and fresh looking, should be cleaned before use. Contaminated water can be a source of anything from E.coli and Salmonella to Weil’s disease, all of which could be life changing. Boiling is the most efficient way to kill bacteria, but takes at least five minutes and uses a lot of fuel. Purification tablets or droplets can take 10 to 30 minutes to treat a litre, while a battery-powered ultra-violet sterilising ‘pen’ like the Katadyn Steripen, available for around £40, can purify a litre in about 90 seconds. However, none of these methods will get rid of sediment – for that you need a filter, which will also deal with bacteria and particles quickly and easily. Or you could strain it through a J Cloth before boiling. The Sawyer Squeeze or Mini filters both cost approximately £35. They have a pouch that holds about 500ml and will filter around 1,500 litres before they need replacing. The Katadyn BeFree costing around £40 has a one-litre bag and lasts for approximately 1,000 litres. Replacement filters cost about £30. If you need additional storage for filtered water, the Cnoc two-litre roll-up bag costs about £20. When collecting water:

covered in a film of growth or otherwise polluted. Avoid water that is obviously muddied or near a lot of livestock. Don’t draw from below where someone has been washing themselves or their pots and plates. Check for dead livestock or wildlife upstream.

• • •

Eating in the wilds Find out all you need to know in the Cooking and Eating chapter, pages 63 to 67.

A LITTLE LUXURY Pull up a chair If you want to spend the evening in a proper chair without adding significantly to your pack weight, invest in one that utilises your walking poles or sleeping mat. The Mountainsmith Slingback chair, weighing under 150g, is supported by two poles, packs into a neat roll and costs around £30. The Therm-a-Rest Trekker chair, for around £35, is another comfortable but heavier option, at just under 300g.

• Take it from a flowing stream rather than a source that is still. • Never use a source that looks stagnant, discoloured, oily,

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Dogs and other animals If you plan to take a four-legged friend, they must be kept under close control at all times, no matter how well trained. Dogs must stay on leads if there is a chance of them getting a sniff of livestock. If they are on the loose, farmers are legally entitled to shoot them if they think they may be worrying their animals. Be warned, it does happen. Never get between a cow and its calf and, if you do find yourself in a field of inquisitive cattle, let your dog run free if they approach in a threatening manner. It is not you the herd is interested in and most dogs will safely outrun a cow – but you may not be able to.

Ticks and midges Ticks can carry Lyme disease and encephalitis, potentially devastating conditions, and they are becoming increasingly common throughout the UK, even in winter. To protect yourself, tuck trousers or leggings into socks, wear gaiters or, at the very least, check feet, legs and everywhere else they might find a hiding place at the end of each day. If you don’t have someone to examine those hard-to-reach areas, carry a small mirror in your first-aid kit. If you find any of these tiny, bloodsucking, spider-like creatures, remove them carefully and cleanly using a specialist tool such as the TickCard, which costs under £5 and contains a magnifier to make spotting easier –

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ticks can be as small as a poppy seed. Don’t twist or burn them as the mouthparts can be left behind, causing an infection. If you are bitten by a tick and develop a circular bulls-eye rash or any other symptoms in the following weeks, see a doctor immediately. Photograph the affected area in case it fades. Don’t forget to check your dog too. Midges can be a nightmare from May to September, particularly if you are heading for the Scottish Highlands. Carry plenty of insect repellent and a head net, which usually sells for under £10, and consider spraying your tent and key items of clothing in advance with Sawyer Permethrin repellent. You could also try something like Beaton’s midge jacket, which retails for about £30, and is essentially a giant mesh poncho. For the current midge situation, see www.smidgeup.com/midge-forecast.

Ticks can be as small as a poppy seed. Remove them with a specialist card or tool.

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9

BIKE CAMPING

If you enjoy cycling, there is no better way to see the world up close, or experience places closer to home on a budget, than camping with a bike. Seasoned bike campers may describe it as either cycle touring or bikepacking, but these are just ways of doing the same thing – travelling on two wheels with a tent or other shelter.

You don’t have to invest in a special bike for camping, provided the one you already have is serviced and set up correctly.

Cycle touring versus bikepacking Traditionally, cycle touring was done mostly on roads. You packed your kit

Camping with a bike is a great way to experience new places on a tight budget.

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into a saddle bag and twin panniers attached to a rack over the back wheel, perhaps with two smaller ones attached to the front forks. More recently, soft bikepacking bags, which fix directly to the frame with straps and Velcro, were developed to provide a more lightweight, aerodynamic set up, making it possible to ride comfortably on and off-road. Panniers will give greater capacity and, because of their low centre of gravity, a more stable ride. A set of two 40-litre back and two 10-litre front panniers gives total capacity of 100 litres, which should be more than enough for a multi-week tour.

Think seriously, though, if you want to carry this much. It won’t be an easy ride, particularly uphill or in a headwind, and you need to be sure your bike and racks can support the weight and, more importantly, that your brakes can stop you safely. The cost of pannier and bikepacking systems is roughly similar – expect to pay around £300 for a full set from a retailer such as Alpkit. That said, there is no reason not to use a combination of styles, going off road with a couple of smallish, lightweight panniers, riding on road with a bikepacking set up, or cycling on and off road with a mixture of the two.

Bikepacking bags, like these ones from Alpkit, are designed for on- and off-road use.

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The right tools for the job Your travelling tool kit should include selfadhesive puncture patches, an inner tube, tyre levers, a pump, a length of spare chain, an emergency link and a splitter, a spanner, Allen keys and a pair of thin plastic gloves to keep oil off your hands.

However, avoid the temptation to add a backpack to your luggage. It is unwise to carry anything heavier or bulkier than a water bladder on your back when cycling long distances, as it will increase fatigue and raise the centre of gravity, making you less stable.

Choose your bike Dedicated touring bikes have a frame constructed to carry luggage and more relaxed geometry so you can make long trips comfortably, but they are sometimes heavier than road bikes. Road bikes have more aggressive racing-style frame geometry, which is not suited to large panniers. This makes them more tiring to ride and, if heavily laden, unstable over long distances. The rugged construction and lower gear ratios of hard-tail mountain bikes means they are ideal for off-road travel,

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but they tend to be less pleasant to ride over long distances than touring bikes. Mountain bikes with suspension aren’t suited to longer touring as their shock-absorbing design can be energy sapping. Gravel bikes are designed for road and off-road use, with relatively light, robust frames, lower gear ratios and wider tyres. This makes for a more enjoyable ride over long distances. Road, mountain and gravel bikes can be used with light, low-volume panniers on the back but they are likely to ride best with bikepacking bags.

Pannier packing If you are using only two, they should go over the rear wheel to reduce wind resistance from the front. If using four, the front ones should be smaller and packed with lighter items so they don’t interfere with steering. Always pack heavier items towards the bottom to keep the centre of gravity low. To get the right stability, each pair of panniers should weigh pretty much the same. Make a packing plan and stick to it using kitchen or bathroom scales. Put rainwear, snacks and anything you might need quickly on the top of a pannier fastened kerb side, so you don’t end up standing in the traffic when you open it. To keep the bike aerodynamic, aim to pack everything in these bags, then use the space between them on the back rack for your tent or rainwear.

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Waterproof panniers are great in heavy rain, but on hot, sunny days they need to be lined with bin bags or aired regularly, as condensation can form on the inside. If kit goes in damp, it will stay that way. Bags made out of breathable, shower-proof Cordura or waxed cotton – lined with

bin bags if heavy rain is forecast – are often cheaper.

Bikepacking bags These tend to be lighter than panniers, can be fitted without heavy racks and are more streamlined, so should have less effect on bike handling.

For big trips, customised bags, from makers such as Bike-Bag, can be combined with panniers.

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Protect your possessions Don’t set out without sufficient insurance to cover your bike and possessions. Check the small print carefully for limits and exclusions before you sign up, and always travel with a good quality lock.

A handlebar bag or roll attached to the front of your bars is perfect for bulkier items such as a tent or bivvy bag and sleeping mat. Capacity ranges from about seven to 20 litres, but don’t overload here as it will make the bike harder to steer. Frame bags fit into the triangular space between the top tube, seat post and down tube. They can be full size,

filling the whole space, or smaller, leaving a gap to access bottle cages. If off-the-shelf bags don’t fit your bike, get one custom made (see page 127). Depending on the size of your bike, frame bags can take up to about 15 litres. They are a good place to stow items such as stoves, fuel and food – but don’t overstuff, as this could conflict with the cranks while pedalling. Put the heaviest items at the bottom. A seat pack straps to the seat post and under the saddle. These conical or wedge-shaped bags, with capacity of up to 20 litres, are good for bulky but relatively light items such as sleeping bags and spare clothes.

Gravel bikes ride well over longer distances with a lightweight bikepacking set-up.

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CHEAP HACK Bags of bikepacking ideas If you don’t have the budget for specialist bikepacking luggage, you can make a serviceable handlebar bag and seat pack from a couple of dry bags and some straps.

Top tube bags, which sit on this tube and attach to the steerer tube, which is below the handlebars, have a capacity of a litre or two. They are the place to put gels and snacks, your phone and other small items you want easily to hand. Cylindrical stem bags, which have a similar capacity and hang between the handlebars and stem, are also good for water bottles or snacks to eat on the move.

Trailer pros and cons Another option is to pack your kit into a trailer fixed to the rear axle or frame.

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Riding safely with one takes a bit of practice, and they can be heavy and cumbersome. However, it is possible to find trailers that weigh about the same as four large panniers and a rack. Expect to pay around £350 for models from leading makers such as Burley. Trailers are also great if you are planning to leave the bike behind for part of the trip. Pack everything into a rucksack – see the Backpacking chapter, pages 99 to 100 – and simply drop it in. They are also useful if you want to carry a single large drybag or are transporting kit for the whole family,

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Pack heavier items towards the bottom of panniers to keep the centre of gravity low. Bikepacking bags allow you to carry a tent and other kit without the need for racks.

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or fancy taking the dog along. For more information, search ‘trailer’ on www. bikepacking.com.

Planning your route Plan your route to suit your bike and fitness. For inspiration, check out the National Cycle Network (www.sustrans. org.uk). Aim to cover a maximum of 100km a day, considerably less if roads or tracks are likely to be poor or there

is a lot of climbing involved. Cut the distance still further if you aren’t as fit as you would like. To reduce stress and danger on road trips, where possible avoid busy main roads and stick to cycle routes, quiet lanes and towpaths. For longer journeys, consider building in a rest day or two. If travel by train or ferry is included, book space for your bike well in advance, as places are likely to be limited and can go quickly.

CHEAP HACK Bike wheel bivvy Make a simple, lightweight shelter using a waterproof tarpaulin and your bike. Search ‘tarp shelter’ on www.bikepacking.com to find out how.

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Stem bags are the place to stow drinks bottles, snacks and other small items.

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A trailer is a good idea if you are taking kids, but riding with one takes practice.

Camp site or wild? Where you stay will depend on whether your route is on- or off-road. For information about camping on off-road trips, see the Wild Camping chapter, pages 105 to 110. For details of campsites near popular cycling routes, try the Camping and Caravanning Club (www. campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk), Cool Camping (www.coolcamping.com) and Sustrans (www.sustrans.org.uk).

A LITTLE LUXURY Personalise your packing For a perfect pack, treat yourself to a set of bags custom-made to fit your bike. Expect to pay between £50 and £150 per item from companies such as Straight Cut (www.straightcutdesign. com), Bike-Bag (www.bike-bag.co.uk) and Alpkit (www.alpkit.com).

Riding with luggage Practise packing and riding your bike with luggage to see how it handles. A loaded bike is heavier and less stable, making it harder to pedal and trickier

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to control on corners. It is also more difficult to stop and will require extra distance to pull up safely at junctions.

Preparing your bike As part of your pre-expedition checks, ensure the transmission is running smoothly, the gears are changing correctly, and the brakes are up to the job. Consider investing in a set of puncture-resistant Kevlar touring tyres. A heavily laden bike will require more tyre pressure to reduce road resistance, but this needs to be

kept within the recommended limits indicated on the tyre wall. If they are over-pressurised and get hot – while speeding downhill, for example – they could blow off the rims with catastrophic results. The shape of saddle you use is down to personal choice, but it needs to feel comfortable over many hours, so check it is correctly adjusted for your preferred riding position. A cheap gel model may become uncomfortable after prolonged riding. This is less likely with a quality leather or combination synthetic and fabric saddle.

Bikepacking off road opens up a wealth of wild camping opportunities.

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BOAT AND BOARD CAMPING Travelling by water combines the satisfaction of moving under your own steam with the pleasure of gaining a whole new perspective on the landscape. Throw a tent or a tarp into the mix and, with the right planning, you have the perfect recipe to float away from the stresses of day-to-day life. However, any kind of expedition by boat or board involves its own set of

10

challenges with wind and tide, as well as hazards in and on the water. To camp safely by canoe, kayak or stand-up paddleboard (SUP), you need to be capable of self-rescue. If you are not there yet, take lessons with a professional, join a club and spend as much time as possible practising on the water with more experienced companions before loading up the camping kit.

Camping with a boat or board offers the chance to gain a whole new perspective.

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A web of camping spots For inspiration about where to stay, websites such as Cool Camping (www.coolcamping. com) and the Camping and Caravanning Club (www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk) offer a multitude of options by rivers, lakes and the seashore.

Safety first Make your first overnight trips as part of a group and choose a route that is well within everyone’s paddling capabilities. Make sure there are stopping points with easy road access along the way in case you need to get ashore in a hurry. Don’t stray too far from the shore, don’t expect to cover as much distance as you would in an unladen craft and allow plenty of time to enjoy the scenery. Check and double check the weather before you set out. Reliable apps

include Windy, YR and Magic Seaweed, but no matter what they say, if you don’t like the look of what is rolling in, postpone the trip – it simply isn’t worth the risk. If you are heading for coastal water, make sure you have a full understanding of local tide patterns and times, and build in plenty of margin for delays. Ensure you have a reliable communication system, including a fully charged mobile phone, plus, if you are going to sea, a marine radio and personal locator beacon. For longer trips, also pack a power bank or solar panel to support your devices. Like a pilot filing flight details before take-off, leave a clear paddle plan and your expected return time with someone reliable, and – if you don’t want to trigger a search-and-rescue mission – remember to let them know as soon as you return to shore or if you are going to

It is sensible to make your first overnight camping trip as part of an organised group.

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be late. For a sea trip, also register your plan with the local coastguard. Even if you know the area well, be sure to pack a waterproof map and a compass – and know how to use them. Never rely on a mapping app alone. And never venture onto the water after dark unless you are an experienced night paddler and have appropriate navigation lights. Always wear a buoyancy aid and, if you are paddle boarding, an ankle or waist leash. Carry a spare paddle, a tow line and a basic first-aid kit as detailed in the Essentials Checklist, page 12. You will also need flares, and know how to use them correctly, if you are going on the sea.

If you plan to spend time out of sight of your craft, exploring or in the pub, don’t forget to position it above the tideline and secure it to something solid with a robust chain and lock. If you don’t plan to lock it, leave a note in a see-through bag that is clearly visible, in case someone finds it and thinks it has washed ashore without you.

Keep it legal A permit is required for most inland waterways in England and Wales – and there are charges to launch on some lakes and reservoirs – so check what is needed for your destination with British Canoeing

Always check the weather before you set out and always wear a buoyancy aid.

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(www.britishcanoeing.org.uk) or the Canal and River Trust (www. canalrivertrust.org.uk). British Canoeing’s On the Water membership, costing around £45 a year for a single adult, includes a licence to access 4,500km of English and Welsh rivers and canals. You could also join the Scottish Canoe Association (www.canoescotland.org), Canoe Wales (www.canoewales.com) or the Canoe Association of Northern Ireland (www.cani.org.uk). Under the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003, everyone has statutory access rights to most of Scotland’s outdoors,

including waterways. However, these must be exercised responsibly, with respect for people’s privacy, safety, livelihoods and for the environment. For more information, visit www. canoescotland.org. Whether you are going inland or to the coast, select your overnight spots in advance. Check they are easily accessible from the water – and well above the tideline at the times you will be there. Pre-book campsites and, if you are not using an official site, make sure you are allowed to camp. For more on this, see the Wild Camping chapter, pages 105 to 110.

British Canoeing membership includes a licence to paddle on rivers and canals.

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Wild camping is legal on the Scottish mainland and islands, if done responsibly. Your craft will handle differently when loaded, so go for a practice paddle first.

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Handling a loaded boat When it comes to packing a boat or board, aim for a small, well-balanced load, and make sure items you might need while paddling or having a break are easily accessible. Your boat or SUP will handle differently when loaded. If gear isn’t placed properly, it will throw the balance off. Go for a test paddle in familiar water before setting out on your first overnight trip. This will allow you to make any adjustments necessary to the loading – possibly losing some nonessential items – and to get a feel for

controlling a more sluggish craft. Unless you are going with a professionally qualified group leader, it is also wise to practise self-rescue while fully loaded. If your route involves carrying your boat or board across land – known as portaging – it might be worth unpacking and carrying your gear separately or investing in a small, packable boat trolley.

Staying dry Unless you are wearing a full drysuit, getting wet at some point is inevitable. So even if you are travelling very light, make sure you have a set of spare

Manufacturers such as Red Original offer a range of robust, waterproof kitbags.

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clothes, including a cosy jacket and hat, and keep them safe in a waterproof bag. Never use bin bags for clothes, food or camping kit – they tear too easily. Don’t forget to leave a towel and a change of clothes in the vehicle you will be going home in – you will be glad of them when you get back to it, tired and damp. Borrow or invest in some good quality drybags, such as those from Ortlieb, Sea To Summit, Exped or paddleboard spin-off Red Original. Prices range from a few pounds for one-litre bags up to about £25 for 30-litre and £50 for 60-litre sacks.

CHEAP HACK Pick up an Ikea bag Always pack a couple of large blue Ikea bags. They are perfect for carrying kit from the shore to your pitch and make excellent sit mats on damp ground.

Red Original also has robust, thoughtfully-designed waterproof kitbags which are partly made from recycled bottles. Prices range from around £30 to £150.

Packing a canoe Watertight plastic 30-litre and 60-litre canoeing barrels, costing from around

Pack camping kit in drybags and secure to your SUP with bungee cords.

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£20 to £40, are robust and, if they go overboard, buoyant. But, even with a set of straps, they are not pleasant to carry if you have to transport your gear any distance to set up camp. Soft drybags with straps make both processes less of a struggle. Aim to use one large bag for camping and overnight kit and a smaller one for daytime equipment, lunch and snacks. Whether you opt for barrels or bags, pack heavier items towards the bottom, keep the weight near the centre of the

boat and tie everything down in case of capsize. If you are facing a head wind, you might want to pack the canoe slightly front heavy, while going stern heavy makes paddling with a following wind more comfortable.

Packing a kayak Using several small waterproof bags makes it easier to distribute items between kayak hatches but make sure you label them. Attaching cords to the bags packed first into bow and stern

If you have only one bag of kit, put it in front of you; split larger loads front and back.

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hatches of a sea kayak will make them easier to retrieve. Also stick a note to the inside of each hatch cover listing the bags it contains. Try to keep the heaviest kit closest to the cockpit, but don’t pack gear in there with you, apart from large containers of water, which should be wedged behind the seat. Loose items can move about while you are paddling, upsetting the balance, and get lost or block your exit if you capsize. Avoid attaching anything other than your spare paddle and pump to the deck, as this will increase wind resistance, affect balance and could make getting back in after a capsize more difficult.

Packing a SUP The rise in the use of paddleboards in recent years has been astonishing. You don’t need a touring paddleboard,

which has a larger deck, to carry camping equipment, but you will require sufficient buoyancy, so check that the combined weight of you and your gear is comfortably below your SUP’s maximum capacity. If it is overloaded, it will be dangerously unstable and hard to control. Protect the cargo area with a folded, lightweight groundsheet or tarp, which can make a useful shelter or sit mat on dry land. To keep the board balanced, pack as little as possible and stow everything just in front of your feet, an even distance from either edge, in one or two dry bags. Put the heaviest items nearest the deck and as flat as possible. Don’t pile the deck too high and ensure everything is securely clipped to the bungee cords. If the board doesn’t have these, add an adhesive or suction cup set.

When paddling, a hammock, such as this one from Robens, will pack down smaller than many tents.

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If paddling with everything in front of your feet doesn’t feel comfortable, move one of the bags behind you and secure with bungees, but remember to leave enough space to kneel if you hit rough water. No matter how light you decide to travel, always pack a basic board repair kit, a spare leash, paddle and fin, and an extra bag for wet gear.

Setting up camp

A LITTLE LUXURY Paddle with the experts Companies and outdoor centres with qualified guides – such as Barra-based Clearwater Paddling (www.clearwaterpaddling.com) in Scotland, Greene Adventures (www. greeneadventures.co.uk) in the Lake District, and Plas y Brenin (www.pyb.co.uk) in Snowdonia – will provide paddling tuition, boats, group leaders and camping kit, and may even cook your meals.

For kayak camping, if your tent poles are too long to fit in the hatches, and you don’t want to invest in a new shelter, consider getting shorter ones made. Bear Bones (www. bearbonesbikepacking.co.uk) produces custom pole sets costing from about £35 to £70. If your pitch is on sand or pebbles, a tent can be secured by tying guy lines around buried stones or small logs. Buoyancy aids can double as seats and pillows. Hammocks and bivvy bags are popular with boat and SUP campers as they are lighter and pack down smaller than many tents. For more on bivvies and other lightweight shelters, see the Tents and Shelters chapter, pages 36 to 38. If you know your knots, you can also create an open-ended tent with a tarpaulin, a towline and four tent pegs using a couple of trees four to five metres apart or a split paddle and some guy lines. The latter option is

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Freshly caught fish makes a fabulous supper, but plan a back-up meal just in case.

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If you light a beach fire, never leave it unattended and clear the traces before you leave.

tricky to set up on your own or if it is windy, though, so practise in the garden or a park first. String the rope securely between the trees or paddles, which will require additional guy lines to make a tripod at each end. Drape the tarp over evenly and pin the corners down with tent pegs to make an A-shaped shelter. In warmer weather, or if you want more headroom, create a lean-to by stringing the rope higher and arranging the tarp so it reaches the ground only

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on the windward side. Secure the short side with guys and pegs. Avoid shelters of this type in high winds, when a falling branch could cause severe injury. And even on less windy evenings, think about the direction it is coming from before pitching – you want it blowing against one side of the tarp, not in an open end. For a truly minimalist bivvy-style shelter, simply turn your boat over, tuck the tarp under the far side, weigh the other edge down with a couple of rocks and crawl inside.

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Food and water Paddling is hungry and thirsty work so take plenty of provisions. If you are planning to fish for supper, make sure you have a back-up meal in case things don’t go to plan. If you want to cook your catch on an open fire, you must not cause any environmental damage. Bring your own fuel, choose hard ground, such as rocks or sand, that won’t be vulnerable to scorch marks, and never add any kind of accelerant. Make sure the fire is small, kept under control at all times and never

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left unattended. Double check it is fully extinguished and remove all traces before you move on or sleep, returning any rocks used to where you found them. One advantage of camping by canoe or kayak is that the boat acts as a fridge while in the water, meaning you can carry food, such as sausages, bacon and cheese, that wouldn’t otherwise be safe to take without an efficient cool box. For more tips on cooking outdoors, see the Cooking and Eating chapter, pages 54 to 67.

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USEFUL CONTACTS These are some of the useful sites mentioned throughout this book.

Organisations and information www.alpkit.com/blogs/spotlight www.backpackersclub.co.uk www.bikepacking.com www.thebmc.co.uk www.britishcanoeing.org.uk www.canalrivertrust.org.uk www.cani.org.uk www.canoescotland.org www.canoewales.com www.dartmoor.gov.uk www.disabilitease.com www.lakedistrict.gov.uk www.lochlomond-trossachs.org www.metoffice.gov.uk www.mountaineering.scot www.mountain.rescue.org.uk www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk www.outdooraccess-scotland.scot www.scottishmountainrescue.org www.simplyemma.co.uk www.smidgeup.com www.sustrans.org.uk

Suppliers and providers www.atompacks.co.uk www.backpackinglight.co.uk www.bearbonesbikepacking.co.uk www.bike-bag.co.uk

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www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk www.campsites.co.uk www.clearwaterpaddling.com www.coolcamping.com www.glampsites.com www.goglamping.net www.gossamergear.com www.greeneadventures.co.uk www.lovecamping.co.uk www.nearlywildcamping.org www.outdoorhire.co.uk www.pitchup.com www.pyb.co.uk www.sherpavan.com www.straightcutdesign.com www.treadlitegear.co.uk www.ukcampsite.co.uk www.ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk

Facebook groups BackPackers Club UK National Parks UK Outdoor Gear Exchange UK

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Our thanks go to the following individuals, organisations and companies for use of their pictures: Alpkit: 34 (bottom), 119, 124 (bottom), 125. Alpkit/Paudie Spillane: 35. Alvantor: 74. Anna Guerrero/Pexels: 58. Bambi Corro/Unsplash: 85 (top). Ben McLeod/Unsplash: 83. Big Dog Bed Company: 78 (top). Bike-Bag: 121. Boutique Camping/Bell Tent Plus: 72. The Camping and Caravanning Club: 24, 37. Canva: 7. Chris Denehy/Clearwater Paddling: cover (main image), 129, 130, 133 (top), 138. Daan Weijers/Unsplash: 6. Dan Russo/ Unsplash: 60 (right). David Hodgson: 87 (bottom). Dương Nhân/Pexels: 9. Eric McLean/ Unsplash: 85 (bottom). FirepitsUK: 57. Global Shots/Red Original: 118, 122, 123, 126. Grant Ritchie/Unsplash: 15. Hilleberg: 32 (bottom). Hilleberg/Jamie Barnes: 30. Hilleberg/Jens Blume: 124 (top). Josh Hild/Unsplash: 5, 105. Junel Mujar/Unsplash: 78 (bottom). Kamaji Ogino/Pexels: 27. Kampus Production/Pexels: 81. Karolina/Pexels: 93 (bottom). Marek Piwnicki/Unsplash: 128. Mark Stosberg/Unsplash: 127 (top). Oase Outdoors ApS/Easy Camp® 2021: cover (bottom right), 80, 82, 87 (top). Oase Outdoors ApS/Outwell® 2021: cover (bottom left), 17, 32 (top), 42, 43, 55, 70 (top), 75, 76, 77 (top), 86. Oase Outdoors ApS/Robens® 2021: 22, 41, 45, 46, 48, 49 (bottom), 94, 109, 111 (bottom), 115, 137. The Original Den Kit: 84. Patrick Hendry/Unsplash: 23, 90. Paul Chambers/Unsplash: 68. Pitchup.com: 10, 16, 19, 21 (top), 69. Plonk Bottle: 66. Razvan Chisu/Unsplash: 132. Red Original: 134, 135, 140. Richard Scott: 31, 61, 106, 136. Robert Bye/Unsplash: 21 (bottom). Robert Dyas: 77 (bottom). Robson Hatsukami Morgan/Unsplash: 62. Secret Campsite, Lewes/Nigel French: 20. Secret Campsite, Lewes/Tim Squire: 64. Secret Campsite, Lewes/Zoe Holland: 26, 88. Straight Cut Design: 127 (bottom). Suzanne Elsworth: 25 (top right), 36, 50, 71. Suzi Richer: 60 (left), 89, 133 (bottom), 139. Teemu/Pexels: 8. Thirdman/ Pexels: 39, 56, 91. Tim Umphreys/Unsplash: 131. Trevor Morgan: 44, 47, 49 (top), 52, 59, 65 (top), 65 (bottom), 92, 93 (top), 98, 99, 100, 101, 102, 103, 107, 108 (top), 108 (bottom), 111 (top), 112, 114 (top), 114 (bottom), 116, 117, 120. Tyler Finck/Unsplash: 25 (top left). Uriel Mont/Pexels: 70 (bottom). Uwe Mücke/Pixabay: 34 (top). Vanessa Garcia/Pexels: 28, 51, 54, 67. Vango: 25 (bottom), 29, 38, 95. Will Truettner/Unsplash: 18. Thanks also to Dave Pratt, David Hodgson and Laura Marfell-Williams for their helpful advice.

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INDEX Accessibility 18-19 Airbeds and mattresses 41-45, 47 Air tents 29, 89 Backpacking 91-104 Food and drink 95, 103-104 Footwear and care 100-102 Packing 92, 96-100 Planning 91-96 Resupply boxes 95, 98 Tents 30, 33 Barbecues 23-24, 56-59, 106 Bedding 41-53 Bikepacking 118-128 Luggage 119-123, 127128 Packing 120-123 Bivouac/bivvy shelters 37-38, 125, 138-140 Boat and board camping 129-141 Clothing 134-135 England 131-132 Licences 131-132 Luggage 135-138 Northern Ireland 132 Packing 135-138 Safety 129-131, 134

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Scotland 132 Shelters 138-140 Wales 131-132 Camp beds 42 Campsites 15-20, 22-24, 89, 96, 107, 127 Canoe camping 129-141 Barrels 135-136 Car camping 41-42, 54, 63, 68-79 Awnings 73 Packing 68-72 Storage 69-71 Chairs and sit mats 50, 116, 135 Cooking and eating 54-67 Barbecues 23-24, 56-59, 106 Cool boxes 73, 79 Fires 56, 106, 108, 110, 113, 141 Fuel 54-56, 113, 141 Pots and pans 55, 56, 60 Safety 59 Stoves 54-56, 113 Cycle touring 118-128 Luggage 119-123, 127-128 Packing 120-123 Route planning 125-127

Trailers 123-125 Types of bike 120 Disabled access 18-19 Dogs 23, 79, 89, 97, 117 Beds 89 Controlling 89, 117 Panniers 97 Drinking water 95, 104, 110, 115-116 Essentials 11-14 Family camping 16-17, 28-29, 80-90 Food 61-63, 73, 83 Games 82, 85 Packing 68-71, 81-82 Sleeping 41-42, 45-47, 53, 89 First-aid kit 12 Fires and firepits 56, 106, 108, 110, 113, 141 Barbecues 23-24, 56-59, 106 Flasks 60, 89 Fly camping 105 Food and drink 54-67, 83, 95, 103-104, 115-116, 141 Menu ideas 61-67, 104 Storage 17, 69-75 Footcare 100-102

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Footwear 100-102 Furniture 74-75 Gas stoves 54-56 Glamping 18, 19, 22, 37 Groundsheets 31-33, 137 Hammocks 36-37, 138 Headtorches 108 Heating 73 Hot water bottles 76 Insurance 20, 122 Kayak camping 129-141 Packing 136-137 Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 107-108, 132 Legal wild camping 105-110 Litter 40, 105, 113 Luggage 69, 91-92, 96-97, 101, 119-123, 127-128, 135-138 Maps 92, 95-96, 110, 131 Mats and mattresses 41-45, 47 Midges 117 Navigation 92, 95-96, 110, 131 Noise 23, 89 Open fires 56, 106, 108, 110, 113, 141

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Paddleboard/SUP camping 129-141 Packing 137-138 Packing cells 92 Pillows 44 Ponchos 112 Pots and pans 55, 56, 60 Resupply boxes 95, 98 Route planning 92-96, 125-127, 130 Rucksacks 96-100 Packing 97-100, 103-104 Safety 12-14, 59, 73-74, 117, 129-131, 134 Scottish Outdoor Access Code 107-108 Security 20, 122, 131 Shelters 27-40, 125, 138-140 Showers 79, 81 Sit mats 50, 135 Sleeping bags 45-53 Care 53 Custom-made 52 Down 50-51 Elephant’s foot/ halfbag 53 Liners 53 Quilt-style 53 Ratings 45-47 Synthetic 50-51 Sleeping mats 42-46 Closed-cell 42 Insulated 43-45 Ratings 42

Self-inflating (SIM) 42-43 Ultralight 43-45 Sleepwear 53 Stoves 54-56, 113 Alcohol 56 All-in-one 55-56 Remote burner 56 Screw-on 55-56 Tarpaulin shelters 36-37, 125, 138-140 Tents 27-40 Air frame 29-30 Bell 22 Buying new 27-31, 33-35 Buying second-hand 35-36 Dome 28-31 Expedition 27 Festival 27 Guy lines 40 Imports 33, 35 Inner-pitch first 33 Outer-pitch first 33 Pegs 40, 79 Pitching 23, 33, 38, 39-40, 81, 89, 112, 140 Poles 29-30, 33, 40 Pop-up 27 Single skin 33 Storage 40, 79 Trekking pole 33 Tunnel 28, 30-31, 39 Ultralight 33 Wheelchair-accessible 19 Yurts 19, 22, 27

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Ticks 117 Toilets 22, 79 Toilet etiquette 113-115 Torches 71, 72, 108 Waste 24, 40, 113-115 Water filters 95, 104, 116 Water purification 104, 116 Weather 33, 35, 36, 38, 54, 69, 79, 92-95, 110, 130 Weather apps 130

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Wild camping 105-117 Dartmoor National Park 106 Dogs 97, 117 England 105-107 Etiquette 106-108, 110 Fires 106, 108, 110, 113, 141 Food 63-67, 95, 104, 141 Lake District National Park 106 Landowners 106, 107 Legality 105-110

Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park 108-110 Northern Ireland 105-107 Pitching 106-110, 112 Safety 95-96, 110, 115-116, 117 Scotland 107-110 Toileting 113-115 Wales 105-107 Water supplies 95, 104, 115-116

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ABOUT THE AUTHORS Suzanne Elsworth is a freelance journalist, editor and copywriter. Her early camping featured rain, family chaos and teenage misery, then she discovered it was an amazing escape. Suzanne likes to mix costeffective cheats with little luxuries to make a trip memorable – for the right reasons.

Alex and Trevor Morgan are timeserved campers and long-distance backpackers, who have spent the night in a tent with a projectile vomiting child and lived to tell the tale. Alex is a journalist and awardwinning novelist; Trevor blogs as Lighterhiker and is a passionate wild camper, bikepacker and unashamed gear geek.

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